Travel Ireland Magazine Volume 1 Issue 5

Travelireland Volume 1 Issue 5 September 2014

It’s Luvvie time at the Dublin Theatre Festival

magazine

Kinsale arts festival steers into port

Jazzing it up in Limerick

Belfast Autumn Festival

Oysters a plenty in Galway

Newgrange in focus

Open 5pm - 10pm

contents...

Welcome to our September issue, Whether this is your first time visiting these our shores, or whether you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. Whether it is myths and medieval castles, or craic and culture in the confines of a cozy pub and to the tune of a stray tin whistle, you are going to need a friendly hand to gently point you in the right direction. So from all of us here at Travel Ireland, a hefty and heart-felt Céad míle fáilte! And enjoy your stay!

Publisher/Managing Director John Carey Director Paul Daly Features Editor Anthony O’Keeffe Design and Art Direction Tim Evans Credit Control Manager Nichola Thomas nichola@ellenmediacom.ie Advertising John Carey john@ellenmediacom.ie 087 9113732 Bill Daly bill@ellenmediacom.ie 087 1533262 Contributors: Arran Henderson, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’Neill, Anthony O’Keeffe, Stephen Walker, Matteo Bertoli.

We wish to record our thanks to Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht. And to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, and The National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI), for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishe’rs prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

05 - WELCOME TO LEINSTER 06 - EXPLORE LEINSTER 08 - Dublin Festival of History 10 - Dublin Theatre Festival 12 - THEATRE 14 - Peploes Interview 15 - Newgrange 17 - LEINSTER PUBS 19 - LEINSTER RESTAURANTS 20 - Dublin Decoded 22 - WELCOME TO MUNSTER 25 - Dingle Trad Fest 26 - Kinsale Arts Festival 29 - Cobh Blues Festival 31 - Taste of West Cork Food Festival 32 - Limerick Jazz Festival 33 - MUNSTER PUBS 34 - Kenmare Antiques 35 - EXPLORE MUNSTER 37 - MUNSTER RESTAURANTS 38 - WELCOME TO CONNAUGHT 40 - Galway Oyster Festival 42 - EXPLORE CONNAUGHT 43 - CONNAUGHT RESTAURANTS 44 - CONNAUGHT PUBS 45 - WELCOME TO ULSTER 46 - Belfast Botanic Gardens 48 - EXPLORE ULSTER 49 - ULSTER RESTAURANTS 50 - ULSTER PUBS

Leinster - The east coast province

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Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital

Dublin city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

Hill of Tara

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the

busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre. The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attraction. Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland. Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College. Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest Kilkenny Castle golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land. Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey

Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Flyfishing and Game shooting Museum .

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’.

You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula. So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 5

Explore Leinster

The National Stud The Chester Beatty Library The Irish National Stud has been producing winners on the racecourse since they sent out Minoru to win the Epsom Derby in 1909.

But it is far more than just a centre of equine excellence. It is also home to some of Ireland’s finest natural treasures, in particular the breathtakingly beautiful Japanese Gardens, the finest of their kind in Europe.

The gardens trace the passage of a soul from birth to death and beyond, at the same time providing a meeting place for the cultures of East and West. You can also savour the serene and spiritual experience provided by one of the Stud’s more recent additions, St Fiachra’s Garden, a stunningly raw representation of our country’s singular landscape. There are guided tours, a gift shop and restaurant.

Tel: 045 521 617

Glendalough

This beautiful glacial valley in County Wicklow is renowned as the place where Cistercian monks settled in the sixth century, and the remains of the monastic priory including a round tower can still be seen today. Known locally as “the valley of the two lakes” , the locals also say it will still your mind, inspire your heart and fill your soul.

The early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the “Monastic City”.

Tel 0404 45325/45352.

6 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

The only museum in Ireland to win ‘European Museum of the Year’ and described by the Lonely Planet as not just the best museum in Ireland, but one of the best in Europe, the Chester Beatty Library opens a window on the artistic treasures of the great cultures and religions of the world.

Egyptian papyrus texts, beautifully illuminated copies of the Qur’an, the Bible, European medieval and renaissance manuscripts are among the many highlights that you’ll find on display here. And be sure to avail of the excellent guided tours that the loquacious and extremely well-informed guides provide there, free of charge. They take place on Wednesdays at 1pm and on Sundays at 3 and 4pm.

Opening hours, 10-5 Mon-Fri, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5pm.

Tel 01 407 0750

Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) Kilmainham Gaol may seem like an unusual place to spend a morning or afternoon but despite its sometimes grim past it makes for a fascinating visit. Built in 1796, Kilmainham Gaol served as a prison for 128 years, and tours detail some of the most heroic and tragic events in Ireland’s emergence as a modern nation.

The tour of the prison includes an audio-visual show. Tickets are sold on a first come first served basis and cannot be booked in advance.

Tel: 01453 5984.

The Book of Kells

The Guinness Storehouse

Formerly known as the Hop Store, the Guinness Storehouse is laid out over seven floors surrounded by a glass atrium that rises up through its centre. You make your way up on a self-guided tour, where you learn all about the beer’s history, the central part that the Guinness family played in the development of the city, and of the world famous advertising campaigns that did so much to help promote it.

Tours are 16.50 Euro, which includes your pint of Guinness in The Gravity Bar on the 7th floor. Which might sound a bit steep for a self-guided tour, but it’s all beautifully laid out and the whole experience is richly rewarding.

Tel 01 408 4800

The Old Library and the Book of Kells Exhibition in Trinity College Dublin are the first things that all visitors gravitate to when first setting foot in Dublin. Located in the heart of the city, a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College will bring visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. And upstairs, you’ll find yourself in the magical environs of the justly famous Long Room.

Inside the Book of Kells itself is a 9thcentury gospel manuscript famous throughout the world for its lavish decoration. The manuscript contains the four Gospels in Latin based on a Vulgate text, written on vellum (prepared calfskin), in a bold and expert version of the script known as “insular majuscule”.

Guided tours of the campus, including the Old Library, The Books of Kells, and the magnificent Long Room upstairs are 12 Euro.

Opening hours: 9:30-5:00 (4:30 Sun) Tel 01 896 1661

Explore Leinster

The War Memorial Gardens

Avondale House and Forest Park

Phoenix Park The Phoenix Park in Dublin is one of the largest and most beautiful urban parks in any capital city in Europe. Stretching over 1,752 acres the park hosts an eclectic mix of beautiful landscapes and historic buildings, including the home of the President of Ireland and Dublin Zoo. It also has herds of elegant fallow deer roaming its pastures.

The Phoenix Park Visitor Centre has a historical interpretation and an audio-visual presentation of the Phoenix Park throughout the ages.

Tel 01 677 0095

Cultural and Historical Walking Tours The streets of Dublin have been home to the Vikings, Normans, Elizabethans, Georgians and Victorians. What better way to explore its secret nooks and crannies than to take one of the many cultural and historical walking tours that the city has to offer.

At Dublin Decoded, Arran Henderson provides a wide range of fascinating insights into Dublin’s history, with particular emphasis on its art and architecture. From “How To Read A Painting:symbols and meaning at the National Gallery” to Architecture of Georgian Splendour, and an historic Medieval Treasure Hunt. Alternatively you can talk to him about designing your own tour.

See www.dublindecoded.com

When you are visiting IMMA in Kilmainham, you should walk on over to Islandbridge about half a kilometer further on.

The gardens there are dedicated to the memory of the 49,400 Irish soldiers who died in the 1st World War. The names of all the soldiers are contained in the beautifully illustrated Harry Clarke manuscripts in the granite bookrooms in the gardens.

Not merely a place of remembrance, they are also of great architectural interest and beauty. They are one of only four gardens in this country designed by the famous architect Sir Edwin Lutyens (1869-1944). The others being Heywood Gardens, Lambay Island and those in Howth Castle. The sunken rose gardens, herbaceous borders and extensive tree planting on view here make it well worth that extra bit of a walk.

Open all year round.

01 475 7816

The National Museum of Ireland

The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world.

Admission to the museum is free and there are numerous exhibitions, talks and tours.

Tel 01 6777444.

Avondale House was the birthplace and home of Charles Stewart Parnell (1846-1891), one of the greatest political leaders of Irish history. Set in a magnificent forest park of over 500 acres, there are tree trails and walks ranging in duration from one to five hours.

Visitors are introduced to this wonderful historical house by a specially commissioned audio visual presentation. Other facilities include a licensed café, bookshop, picnic areas, children’s play area, three orienteering courses (maps can be downloaded at www. coillteoutdoors.ie) and a large car/coach park.

0404 46111 www.heritageisland.com

Casino Marino

The Casino was designed by Sir William Chambers as a pleasure house for James Caulfeild, 1st Earl of Charlemont, and is one of the finest 18th century neo-classical buildings in Europe. The Casino, meaning “small house”, and notwithstanding its name, contains 16 finely decorated rooms, endlessly rich in subtlety and design. It is a remarkable building, both in terms of its structure and its history.

The Casino is located at Marino, just off the Malahide Road and only three miles north of the centre of Dublin.

Open 10-5pm, admission 3 Euro, 1 Euro for students and children.

Tel 01 833 1618 SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 7

The Dublin Festival Of History

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he Dublin Festival of History takes place during the last week of September and the first week of October, but most of the principal events are being held in Dublin Castle between Friday September 26th and Sunday the 28th.

There are talks, exhibitions and readings, many of them focusing on the 1st World War which is being commemorated this year by the Festival.

Dublin Castle

no doubt there will be plenty of people who will be curious to hear what one of Scotland’s most eminent historians thinks about what the people of Scotland will say when they are asked to vote on their independence in just a few weeks’ time.

Though there are unlikely to be quite as many sparks flying this year as there were last year, when a woman in the audience (from Clontarf I believe) took on Simon Schama about the Israeli treatment of the Palestinians.

On Saturday at 11 am Poetry Aloud present We Charge At Dawn, where a number of poets will read from some of the most famous poems to come out of the 1st WW. Historian Dr Paul Rouse will introduce the event with a talk on the

The highlight of this year’s festival will be the talk given by Sir Hew Strachan in the Printworks (which is where most of the talks are being organized), on the Sunday at 2pm. The television series that Channel 4 made of his magisterial book the The First World War was recently re-shown on BBC4 to mark its one hundred year anniversary this year.

Sir Hew is based at All Souls at Oxford, but 8 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

poetry of the First World War. And that evening a specially commissioned piece of documentary theatre will be performed at the Printworks. The Green Fields: the Road to War is written by Kevin McGee and will be performed by Byran Murray at 7pm.

Other talks to look out for include Sir Richard J Evans talking to Diarmaid Ferriter about Altered Pasts, counterfactuals in history on Friday at 5:30pm. Charles Spencer will talk about his book Killers of A King on Charles I at 8:30, also on Friday. And Alison Weir will give a talk about her new book on the virgin queen, called The Marriage Game on Sunday at 12 noon.

Other talks will cover Viking Dublin, Spain in the 20th century, the Warsaw Uprising, women in war, and the Kremlin in history.

All lectures are free and booking is available now on www.dublinfestivalofhistory.ie

craft beers

group dining

wine

celebrations

saturday sunday

ALL WEEK LONG

brunch

cocktails

pre-theatre

dessert

early bird

Dublin Decoded

Unique, city walking tours of Art, Architecture and History in Ireland’s capital, with writer, art historian and acclaimed guide Arran Henderson.

“Ah sure it’s only bleedin deadly!” a local

To see our 5-star reviews, go to the Dublin Decoded page on TripAdvisor For full menu of tour descriptions and booking details, see www.dublindecoded.com

16 Aungier St. Dublin 2

01 475 9003 www.whitefriargrill.ie

info@whitefriargrill.ie

Dublin Theatre Festival

Australia, Chile, France, the UK, Belgium and Denmark. Here are just a few of the highlights:

Hamlet

at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Sept 25 – 27 The most spectacular production at this year’s festival will be Berlin’s Schaubühne production of Hamlet, which runs for three nights at the Bord Gais Theatre.

Directed this time around by Thomas Ostermeier, the world famous Berlin house returns to Dublin after the success they enjoyed here in 2006 with Hedda Gabler.

On a spectacular stage covered in earth, blood and water, the visionary and multi award-winning director Thomas Ostermeier’s thrilling production cracks with energy and immediacy. Six of the company’s best known actors breathe new life into the characters of Denmark’s corrupt court in Shakespeare’s classic tale of politics, passion, murder and betrayal.

Brigit & Bailegangaire

by Tom Murphy at The Olympia Theatre, Oct 1–5

Lars Eidinger as Hamlet

T

he 55th Dublin Theatre Festival opens on Thursday September 25th, and runs until Sunday October 12th. This year’s programme features 28 world-class productions, which will be staged in 21 of the best venues throughout the city.

10 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

As ever, you will be able to see everything from vast, panoramic productions of world famous classics to small, independent production companies putting on first time plays in intimate surroundings. And from a wide variety of home produced dramatists, as well as plays from

The Druid Theatre Company, one of, if not the best theatre company working in Ireland today, returns to the Olympia with a double bill from one of our finest writers, Tom Murphy.

Bailegangaire was first premiered in 1985 and is widely regarded as one of the few serious works in modern Irish drama. Murphy returns to the same household for this newly written companion piece, Brigit which takes place in the same dark place thirty years earlier. In this new play, an oddjob man with ‘a great pair of hands’ is given a commission by the church to carve a statue, and soon forms an obsession with his work, endangering his family and the three grandchildren they’ve inherited.

Bailegangaire, which takes place thirty years later, centres on the figure of Mommo, and the family that surround her. As tells the same story over and over again, without ever actually finishing it, of how the town of Bochtán came to be known as Baileganagaire, the town without laughter.

Dublin Theatre Festival

GANESH Train Scene

A Girl is a Half-formed Thing

Tues 30th

Following on from his huge success in 2011, with The Speckled People, the Gate Theatre presents the world premiere of The Mariner, by renowned Following three sold-out shows with the festival in the past three years, Irish writer Hugo Hamilton.

The Corn Exchange return with Eimear McBride’s multi award-winning Directed by Patrick Mason and with a cast that includes Ingrid Craigie, it debut novel A Girl is a Half-formed Thing. Following the inner narrative of tells the story of a sailor returning home from the Royal Navy after the First a girl from the womb to the age of twenty with vivid intensity and originality, World War who is unable to speak or tell his own story. His wife welcomes A Girl is a Half-formed Thing promises to be an unforgettable theatrical in January Zaytoon restaurants him Established back with open arms,2000 but the war has changedhave him and his mother experience. And McBride is one of Ireland’s most exciting new voices. branches in 14/15 Parliament street andAs the mariner slowly 14-15 Parliament Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 1 - 01 677 3595 totwo question whether this really is her son.

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at the Samuel Beckett Theatre, Sept 25 – Oct 5

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The Mariner

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Theatre

The Abbey

Heartbreak House

by George Bernard Shaw.

Previews from Sept 25th, opens Sept 30th.

Tel: 01 874 4045

National Concert Hall

Don Wycherley (Afred Mangan) and Mark Lambert (Captain Shotover) in Heartbreak House Following the success of Pygmalion (2011) and Major Barbara (2013), they continue their celebration of one of Ireland’s greatest writers.

Shaw’s unmistakable wit and stinging observations are to the fore in this satirical look at British high society carelessly sliding towards disaster.

14 August – 13 September, Mon – Sat 7.30pm, Sat matinee 2pm Tickets: €13 – €45/ Conc. €13 – €25 Tel 01 878 722

Dublin Fringe Chaos, Lords of Strut 9-13th Sept. €14

THE WELL RESTED TERRORIST - Maud in Cahoots 9-13th Sept. €16

Ajax and LIttle Iliad 16-20th Sept. €16

How To Disappear Completely 17-20th Sept. €14 Tel 01 878 722

The Gate

Pride And Prejudice

The National Concert Hall is home to the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra, Irish Baroque Orchestra, and the National Chamber Choir of Ireland. But its cultural brief extends across all musical genres from Classical and Irish Trad, to jazz, folk and world music.

Highlights this September include the Irish Youth Opera’s Rape Of Lucretia on Fri 12th, the Signature Series with David Putnam on Sat 13th, the ESB Feis Ceoil Young Platform Series on Mon 15th, 22nd and 29th, Nana Mouskouri on Sat 27th and Mario Lanza, The Loveliest Night of All on Sun 28th.

The Mariner

by Hugo Hamilton Following on from his huge success in 2011 with The Speckled People, the Gate presents the WORLD PREMIÈRE of The Mariner, by renowned Irish writer Hugo Hamilton as part of the Dublin Theatre Festival.

12 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

Set in L.A.’s infamous Sunset Strip in 1987, ROCK OF AGES tells the story of Drew, a boy from South Detroit and Sherrie, a small-town girl who head to L.A. to chase their dreams of making it big and falling in love. This 80s themed, hilarious musical takes you back to the times of big bands with big egos playing big guitar solos and sporting even bigger hair!

Sept 15-20th. €17.50-50 Tel: 01 677 7999

The Lyric Theatre, Belfast.

Punk Rock,

by Simon Stephens.

Tel: 01 417 0000 Or go to www.nch.ie

The Gaiety

Steven Berkoff The Actor’s Lament.

MCD and The Gaiety Theatre are delighted to announce that legendary actor, director and playwright Steven Berkoff will bring The Actor’s Lament to Ireland this September for one week only.

Sept 1-6th €20

Brendan Behan’s Borstal Boy. For the first time in 25 years, Brendan Behan’s BORSTAL BOY returns to Dublin’s Gaiety Theatre from September 11th. The critically acclaimed and commemorative play marks the 50th anniversary of the death of Brendan Behan (20th March 1964), and tells the story of the legendary Irish author.

Sept 11- Oct 11th.

Tickets through Ticketmaster.

Tel: 01 679 5622

by Jane Austen.

Alan Stanford’s acclaimed production of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice returns, celebrating the 200th anniversary of its publication.

Rock of Ages

Bord Gais Energy Theatre Tony Bennett

TONY BENNETT, the 17 time Grammy Awardwinning musician whose music spans over six decades, will play the Bord Gais Energy Theatre on Friday 12 September.

Sept 12th. €65.45

Punk Rock is an intense and powerful piece of theatre, by Simon Stephens, who has been described as the most prolific British Playwright of his generation. “(It’s a) remarkable, unpredictable play, which connects with teenagers - and with everyone who has ever been a teenager - in a manner that is immediate, disturbing and beautifully crafted” **** The Irish Times

Aug 10- Sept 6th €10-24.50 028 9038 1081

Printworks, Dublin Castle.

The Green Fields: The Road To War. The Road to War uses speeches, songs and letters from 1914 and 1915 to chart Ireland’s journey into the Great War, from the brass bands on the quayside to the horrors of the Dardanelles.

Written and directed by Kevin McGee for the Dublin Festival of History, it stars Bryan Murray (Fair City, Strumpet City, The Irish RM), John Cronin (Trivia, The General) and Paul Reid (Raw, The Clinic), with music by Jack Cawley.

September 27th, 19:00.

Tickets: €5. www.dublinfestivalofhistory.ie.

Peploes Head Chef Interview

N

eil Mulholland explains how he came to be head chef at Dublin’s famous Peploe’s Wine Bistro.

Peploe’s is a roomy, plush bistro in a basement on Dublin’s Stephen’s Green. But despite the impressively salubrious surroundings it is, according to the Head Chef there, a bistro.

They are not looking to reproduce some sort of old World “fine dining” experience, any more than they are going to waste time following whatever the latest fashion happens to be in the increasingly elaborate milieu of the world’s best restaurants.

“Beef that’s been dry aged for at least 28 days.

Sometimes it can be for as long as 50 days. But for at least 28 days, that’s the sort of thing that I’m interested in, rather than whatever the latest fads are. It’s really important that your beef has good marbling, because that’s where all the flavour comes from.”

Neil studied cooking at the RTC in Athlone before winning a scholarship to travel to the Black Forest in Germany, where he lived for a year and a half. After which, he returned to Dublin to study baking at Kevin St. It was then that he hooked up with Barry Canny, and together they opened their first restaurant together, Browne’s Brasserie around the corner on Kildare St. And for the last 16 years, the pair have struck up a formidable partnership.

In between Browne’s and opening Peploe’s 11 years ago, Neil spent a couple of years travelling, stopping off in Namibia and Angola before eventually ending up in Australia. He worked in the famous Iceberg’s, on Bondi Beach, an Italian restaurant whose speciality was fried sheep’s brains.

During his time there, Neil lived all over Australia, including a spell on Lizard Island, which is situated 240 kilometres out on the Great Barrier Reef. But the taste he’d developed for diving and for spear fishing during his time down under had to be carefully handled while he was living on the island.

“It was originally a volcanic island, and in the evening you could climb up the hills and look down on all the sharks that would congregate around the island in the waters below as the sun went down. So not much diving was done there!”

On his way back home to Ireland, he stopped off in Thailand and then later in Hong Kong and China. There he tasted any number of unusual delicacies. Including live ants(!), which he maintains taste a lot like lemon, and have now become a favourite in Copenhagen’s celebrated Noma. And fried grasshoppers, which are wonderfully crunchy and, apparently, a lot like fried dragon flies.

But for the last 11 years he’s been running the kitchens at Peploe’s. 7 days a week, lunch and dinner, it’s significantly roomier than its 80 covers would suggest. And they are now offering a three course meal for just €24.50. Which given the surroundings, is surprisingly affordable.

01 676 3144 14 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

Newgrange

Oghan YOU TOO CAN OWN A PIECE OF OGHAN Your name or that of a loved one in Oghan

E

very year, a handful of lucky people gather at Newgrange, about 40 minutes north of Dublin, for the Winter Solstice on December 21st. There they hope to see the sunlight seep into the chamber to illuminate the carefully positioned interior, just as they did 5,000 years ago when they were originally built.

The official name for the Neolistic complex just off of the River Boyne is Brú na Bóinne.

And it comprises not just of the large mound at Newgrange, but of similarly large mounds at Knowth and Dowth, as well as scores of other smaller ones. But most people refer to it simply as Newgrange.

Experts continue to differ as to precisely what it was the constructions there were built for.

They are made up of large, circular mounds, with stone passageways and chambers within.

And are surrounded by a series of large, carefully decorated stones without. But whether the intricately carved patterns are merely decorative or symbolic is unclear. However, all the time and effort that was put into their creation would strongly suggest that the site must surely have been built for religious reasons.

What they do know though is that the buildings, if that’s what we can call them, date back to

C

3,200 BC. So they are more than 500 years older than Stonehenge, and nearly a thousand years older than the Pyramids in Egypt. The great archaeologist Colin Renfrew has said of Newgrange that it is “unhesitatingly regarded by the prehistorian as the great national monument of Ireland” and as one the most important megalithic sites in the whole of Europe.

However, it is not possible to visit Newgrange other than by booking a tour at the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. Which you can either drive out to by car, or get a bus from Dublin to. So be sure to organize your visit through the Visitor Centre.

And if you’d like to be one of the lucky few who get to visit Newgrange for the Winter Solstice, you’ll need to apply to the centre to have your name added to the list. Every year, local schoolchildren draw 50 lucky names, each of whom can bring a friend. But be warned, last year nearly 30,000 people applied. And if that’s not bad enough, you’ll also be relying on our weather to produce a bright and sunny morning. There’s not very much to see there if it’s cloudy. Perhaps that’s why they are still standing. They’ve not had to cope with the wear and tear of daily sunshine.

041 982 3071 Or go to www.newgrange.com

Irish Jewel

arol Clarke Jewellers have been designing and making original pieces of gold and silver jewellery for the past thirty years from their shop, which is situated in the heart of Dublin city in the Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson St ( parallel to Grafton St.).

Here you will find all kinds of everything.

From the Cladagh ring to some of the beautiful, original oghan jewellery, they have a wide range of Irish jewellery. But they also have some very unusual pieces of gold and platinum, including

engagement and wedding rings.

Over the years they have won numerous awards for designing and making jewellery, and they have been commissioned by any number of famous people to make pieces for them. They also have a small range of genuine antique and vintage Jewellery. Go on to the website, or better still, call into the shop!

Contact 01 677 7161 Or go to www.irishjewel.com

Designed and made in our Irish workshop. We ship all over the world.

Silver from €100 Gold from €250

Carol Clarke

MIRV.PJ Val., RJ Dip., Diam Grad.,GIA 7 Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2 01 6777165 www.irishjewel.com carol@irishjewel.com SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 15

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Recommended Pubs in Leinster

The Stag’s Head 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 01 679 3687

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased. Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

The Grave Diggers 1 Prospect Sq., Dublin 9 01 8307978

It reads “John Kavanagh” above the door outside, but everybody knows it as the Grave Diggers, as it’s just around the corner from Glasnevin Cemetery.

Before Gunness became so efficiently corporate and the quality of a pint was far less predictable, this used to be where you’d go for the best pint in Dublin. It still is, and they haven’t changed a thing here for years. Happily.

Johnnie Fox’s

Glencullen, Co Dublin.

01 295 5647

Hidden away just off of Dame Street, there’s been a tavern here on this corner for over 200 Years. And the Stags has long been a traditional haunt for Trinity students, and for the stars of film and television that they grow up to become. Whilst downstairs you can see comedy on Mondays or Irish Trad at the weekends.

Hourican’s Bar

7 Leeson St Lwr, Dublin 2 01 678 9030 Situated at the Stephen’s Green end of Leeson Street, this is the perfect place to stop off for a quiet pint before heading off to some of the more glitzier venues in town proper, or on to the rest of the Leeson Street strip.

Grogan’s

15 S William St., Dublin 2 01 677 9320

Set high up in the heart of the Dublin mountains, Fox’s is an institution. Superb food and a unique atmosphere, there’s Irish trad there every night, and at weekends in the afternoons as well. And there’s a shuttle bus that gets you there and back in 30 minutes for a fiver either way. But be sure to book, as it’s one of the most popular pubs in Leinster.

Cleere’s Bar and Theatre 28 Parliament St, Kilkenny 056 776 2573

Cleere’s pulls off that rare trick of successfully being two things at the same time. Out the front, it’s a classic, traditional Irish pub. And out back, it’s an exciting theatre that plays host to gigs and plays. And they are as serious about the acts that they allow perfor there as they are about keeping the atmosphere exactly the same as it’s always been.

SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 17

GROGANS Where time stands still Host to a continuous changing art exhibition

15 South William Street Telephone 677 9320

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057

236 Lower rathmines road, dubLin 6 teL: 01-4977057

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster

777

7 Castle House, S George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 425 4052 A little pricey for a Mexican restaurant, but well worth it. Beautifully decked out and effortlessly fashionable, you could comfortably skip the main courses and go instead for a selection of starters, which tend to be as generous as they are enticing.

Ciao Bella Roma

24-5 Parliament St., Dublin 2. tel 01 677 0004 These are the best pizzas you’ll find north of Naples, and are very much of the Neapolitan variety rather than the much thinner Roman sort.

And their special lunch deal, which gives you a pizza and glass of wine for around a tenner is not just the best value lunch in town, it’s the best lunch full stop.

Thornton’s Restaurant

Above the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green. tel 01 478 7008 This one star Michelin restaurant is, as they say, reassuringly expensive. Which is only as it should be as the man in charge is Ireland’s finest chef, Kevin Thornton. If you have any intention of cementing a relationship, or of instigating a new one, this is the place to take them.

One of the few places to get really great fresh fish in the centre of town, and surprisingly affordable.

You can treat yourself to a full meal in the restaurant proper, or a traditional fish and chips of exceptional quality in the diner next door.

Darwin’s Restaurant

80 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 7511

at this superior smart casual restaurant. And their special offer of a three course meal for two plus wine for just €55 is one of the best dinners you’ll get anywhere in town.

Kafka Restaurant

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6. 01 497 7057

This family run restaurant caters to all possible tastes, whether carnivorous, coeliac or vegetarian.

Their own in house butcher provides them with meats, game and poultry, they have fresh fish and a wide selection of dishes made from locally sourced vegetables. And you can finish it all off with their homemade desserts.

Fade Street Social

4 Fade St, Dublin 2. tel 01 604 0066 The latest venture from Dublin’s hottest hipster chef Dylan McGrath, this manages to be both screamingly fashionable and a really good restaurant, without being overpowering. It’s not quite as casual as it would have you believe, but it is really, really good.

Café Topolis

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value.

Peploe’s

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. 01 676 3144

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2. tel 01 670 4961

Yamamori

71-2 S. George’s St., Dublin 2. tel 01 475 5001 The original Yamamori on George’s Street still serves up the best and simplest Japanese food in Dublin. But Yamamori Sushi, their sushi bar on the quays, runs it a close second. And if you’re looking for something a bit more funky, there’s always Yamamori Izakaya.

The Good World

18 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 5373 There’s been a huge influx of Chinese in Dublin of late, and the choice of Chinese food in the city has improved no end. But this is still the best place to find dim sum. And significantly, most of the people you’ll find eating here are other Chinese diners.

Acapulco Mexican Restaurant

7 S George’s St, Dublin 2. tel 01 677 1085 This lively Mexican Restaurant offers the very best traditional Mexican cuisine, with sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and, best of all their famous deep fried icecream!

Super Miss Sue

Drury St, Dublin 2. tel 01 679 9009

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine.

Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

Le Bon Crubeen

81-2 Talbot St., Dublin 1. tel 01 704 1026 This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes. It won the Best Value Restaurant Dublin in “The Dubliner” Top 100 restaurants in 2012, having previously won the Irish Restaurant Awards’ Best Casual Dining Restaurant in Dublin in 2010. Value and quality.

Whitefriar Grill

16 Aungier St, Dublin 2. 01 475 9003 They pride themselves on putting brunch back on the menu, and in producing the best brunch in Dublin. But there’s a lot more than that going on

This stylish Bistro produces the very best quality food at relatively affordable prices. Plush yet comfortable, their 28 day dry aged steak is the best you’ll find anywhere in the city. And their 3 course dinner special for just 24,50 is the proverbial steal.

Il Primo

16 Montague St., Dublin 2. 01 478 3373 “If you want to taste risotto made as it should be, you’ll need to go to Il Primo,.” So says Paolo Tullio of the Irish Independent. And this restaurant has been producing some of the best rustic, Italian food you’ll find anywhere in Dublin for over 20 years now.

Zaytoon

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel. 01 677 3595.

If you are looking for somewhere quick to sit and eat this place has the best kebabs in town, cooked in a clay oven.

SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 19

Riverside Buildings on Dublin’s Quays

Art Historian and Dublin city guide Arran Henderson has spent years exploring art, architecture and design history. Here he is on some hidden gems in the city centre.

The river Liffey, immortalized as Anna Livia Purabelle by James Joyce, is the heart and soul of Dublin, paradoxically both its dividing line and connecting thread. Dublin Decoded leads history and architecture walks in the capital and last month saw our first along the fabled waterway. Here, travelling seawards, west to east, are five of the best set piece buildings along the river quays.

3- The Four Courts, one of the granddaddies of Dublin’s riverfront buildings and one of two 18th century masterpieces by the great Georgianera architect James Gandon on the river. The home of Ireland’s legal system features fine decorative sculpture and a spectacular dome and portico.

1- Collins Barracks, set back from the river, behind Croppy’s Acre (where reputedly the bodies of United Irishman rebels, slain after the Rising of 1798, lie buried in a mass grave), this complex was once the largest barracks in the world. The numbers painted on the stonework around the vast courtyard remind us it was a parade ground. But today this is home to the National Museum collection of decorative and applied arts, including works by Eileen Grey, as well the Irish Military museum. Always worth a visit.

4- The Clarence Hotel, on Wellington Quay, there’s been a hotel of this name on this site since the 1850s although the original structure was replaced in the 1930 with the current fine and highly distinctive façade. Famously owned by Bono and the Edge of U2, a highly invasive proposal to demolish the hotel interiors and to put a ludicrous Norman Foster-designed, flying saucer-shaped extension on the roof has mercifully come to nothing to date.

2- St Paul’s church. On Arran Quay, a fine edifice by prolific 19th century architect Patrick Byrne, who all but cornered the market in the rush of new Catholic churches built in the third and fourth decade of that century.

Byrne is also responsible for St Audoens’ on High Street; churches at Rathmines, Raheny, Blackrock, and the super facade of St Francis of Myra in the Liberties. He even designed another church on Dublin’s river quays, the wonderfully named Adam and Eve. But St Paul’s is the best sited of all Byrne’s works.

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5- The Custom’s House, a huge, and incredibly expensive Georgian era project rammed through, in the teeth of much opposition, by the king’s chief collector John Beresford. The carvings, many by John Smyth, depict themes, ideas and motifs related to both Ireland’s trade and to the sea. Look out for the cows heads, linked by swags of leather hide (beef, cattle on the hoof and leather hides were all key exports for Ireland at the time) Arran Henderson is the chief guide of Dublin Decoded, specialists in reading art, architecture and history through the buildings of Dublin. Details of his Tours can be found on Dublindecoded.com.

25 Sept–12 Oct 2014

Lighting up Dublin’s stages and spaces for 18 jam-packed days of exceptional theatre and entertainment.

Tickets on sale now!

– online: www.dublintheatrefestival.com phone: +353 1 677 8899 in person: Festival Box Office, 44 East Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 DublinTheatreFestival @DubTheatreFest

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Located on Top Floor of St. Stephens Green Centre

www.donegalshop.ie

Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 014754621 Website: www.donegalshop.ie SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 21

Welcome to Munster

M

unster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance.

There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Bunratty Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture. From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster.

The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop Fota Wildlife Park of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Contact : Telephone No: 062 61437. E-mail: rockofcashel@opw.ie.

County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’ and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The

Limerick and sounds to suit all tastes. County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience. The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

22 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

Blarney Castle

factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

NOW OPEN FOR SUMMER!!

Open 7 days

Out-TRAVEL of the Blue - Half Page.indd 1 24 IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

24/04/2014 17:19:46

The Dingle Tradfest

T

his year’s festival kicks off in Dingle on Thursday September 11th, and runs until Sunday the 14th. There are a series of night-time and lunchtime concerts, including outdoor events, a busking competition on the Saturday, the Tom Crean’s Expedition and even a session on Cnoc a’ Cairn, one of the local mountains!

Some of the names to watch out for are Barry Tierney, Cillian King and his band, and the winners of the online group competition Squeeze Box Social.

While Dingle Brewery will set the stage for TG4 award winners Harry Bradley and Bryan O Leary, as well as former BBC young musician of the year Paddy O’Callaghan and his trio from Scotland.

But the highlight once again will be the session trail.

This snakes its way through town on Friday evening, and then again on both the afternoon and evening on Saturday and Sunday, stopping off at Adam’s Bar, Foxy John’s, Hannie Agnes’ and Muiris Dan’s to name but a few. And every street corner in between!

The goal of the festival is to promote Irish music in a new and exciting way, emphasising especially the creativity of young traditional musicians on the scene today. Appropriately enough, it all culminates with the now traditional Trad-Disco, with uber-cool DJ Conor Crimmins, which takes place at Club HTWO on Saturday night.

For more info go to www.dingletradfest.com

SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 25

Dingle Kinsale- My Arts Kingdom FestivalFor A Dolphin

T

he Kinsale Arts Festival is an annual celebration of arts and culture, both Irish and international, that takes place against the unique backdrop of the seaside town in Co. Cork. Over the last decade, the festival has become an integral part of Ireland’s cultural calendar, welcoming a selection of the most exciting established and emerging artists, writers and performers to take over Ireland’s culinary capital for ten days.

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Dingle Kinsale- My ArtsKingdom Festival For A Dolphin

The Elysian Quartet make their Irish debut performing music from De Oscuro’s Macbeth, which premiered at the Royal Opera House last year.

And there are any number of events that marry Kinsale’s twin passion for the arts and for all things connected with food. From The Domestic Godless’ sewage-duct sushi bar, to a Breaking Bad inspired chicken in TV Dinner’s feast for the eyes and tongues!

On the music front, there’s an impressive contemporary programme featuring Lisa O’Neill, the Chatham Saxophone Quartet, and Louis Stewart with Jim Doherty. Whilst the Irish Times’ music critic Jim Carroll returns with his Banter, which on this occasion sees him having a casual if informed chat with Íarla Ó’Lionáird.

Corcadorca Eat My Noise

Íarla has recently enjoyed huge success with the newly formed group The Gloaming, who have managed to fuse experimental contemporary music with Irish Trad. They’ll be joined by Chelsea Flower Show winner Mary Reynolds and filmmaker Pat Collins.

On the lighter side, there are words and comedy from David O’Doherty, Tommy Tiernan, Foil, Arms and Hog, Roger McGough, Roy Foster and more more besides.

David O’Doherty

The Festival has previously commissioned and presented work from artists, writers and performers from all over the world, from The Brodsky Quartet, Nouvelle Vague and the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble to Ireland’s Edna O’Brien, Neil Jordan and John Banville.

One of the many highlights of this year’s Festival is the return of critically acclaimed theatre pioneers Corcadorca with their first large-scale site specific production in six years. The Irish premiere of Cork man Enda Walsh’s How These Desperate Men Talk will run throughout the entire festival.

Other events to watch out for are the fleet of boats that will be taking to the water to announce the opening of the Festival in spectacular fashion. As well as the underwater sculpture that Kathy Prendergast the Festival has commissioned, and the immersive theatre show inside the town’s industrial metal perforation factory that will also be receiving its world premiere. As well as countless other events for all the family exploring science and technology, many of which are free.

Festival Director Marie McPartlin sums it up: “The Festival explores our rich history and landscape as a distinctive context for celebrating arts and culture, (and) the 2014 programme aims to unveil a different side to Kinsale - sometimes playful, sometimes dark, always surprising”.

021 470 0010 Or got to www.kinsaleartsfestival.com

SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 27

KINSALaEsons

A Town for All Se We are delighted to be the Start/Finish point of the Wild Atlantic Way and welcome all visitors to our historic harbour town.

Kinsale is just 30 minutes from Cork City, with easy access by road, rail or ferry and Cork International Airport Supported by Kinsale Chamber of Tourism & Business

• • • •

Top quality accommodation to suit all requirements and budgets Gourmet restaurants, cafés & lively bars, serving local produce Walking tours & many activities on and off the water Galleries & boutique shopping

See www.kinsale.ie for information on Autumn Breaks, Festivals, Special Offers and much more!

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Cobh Blues Festival

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Commodore Hotel to raise funds for the festival. Tickets are just €5.00 and all proceeds go to covering some of the costs of what will be a fantastic weekend of free - yes that’s right, almost entirely free music! Providing the entertainment on that earlier night will be Slam featuring Jamie Stanton and Gerry Quigley and the Shinkickers. Doors open at 9:30 with tickets available on the door.

The Festival proper begins on the following Friday, with concerts taking place across the town. Michelle Cotter, finalist of TG4 production Glór Tíre, plays in Jack Doyles Bar, The Hitmen will be in The Well House Bar, Rob Harley will be in the Rob Roy Bar and The Bluez Crew are playing in Ryan’s Bar. This year sees the return of the very popular midnight blues sessions on Friday and Saturday night in The Bellavista Hotel, where Alexander John will be performing on the Friday night, with Susan Tomilty & Pat Farrell providing the tunes on the Saturday night. Others playing over the weekend include Blind Lemon, Joe O Callaghan & The Roosters, Boxcar Bertha, Dr. Dec & The Side Effect, The Vipers and local hero and “The Voice of Ireland” finalist, Jamie Stanton.

And then on Saturday the 20th at 2:30 pm there’s a family fun afternoon organized on the promenade, with the Cobh Blues Club providing the music along with some invited guests.

In short, there’s something there for all lovers of blues and roots music. And did I mention that it’s practically all free?!

For more info, call Paul on 087 207 3067.

ituated about half an hour outside of Cork City, the harbour town of Cobh is where the Titanic set off from on its fatal maiden voyage.

And it was off of these shores that the Lusitania was torpedoed in 1915. So with its air of distant sadness, and the rugged, natural beauty of its setting, where better to host Ireland’s premier Blues Festival?

Now in its eighth year and sponsored by Diageo, the Festival will provide over a hundred hours of music, nearly all of it free, with over 20 acts performing in 11 indoor and outdoor venues around the town throughout the weekend. Venues include local pubs, clubs and hotels as well as the bandstand in the promenade on the waterfront, making for the perfect setting for some open air electric and acoustic blues.

It all takes place between Friday 19th and Sunday 21st of September. But on the Friday before, on September 12th, there’s a warm up concert in the

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Union Hall Smoked Fish is a family business run by the Nolan family, situated in the fishing village of Union Hall. We have been producing high quality smoked fish products in our artisan smokehouse for the past 30 years. We pride ourselves in delivering prime fish by skilled artisans, with personal service by the Nolan family assured throughout.

We specialise in numerous fish products such as Smoked Salmon, Smoked Trout, Smoked Barbecued Salmon, Smoked Mackerel, Smoked Kippers, Smoked Salmon Pate and Smoked Mackerel Pate.

Check out our website to view all our products.

Tel: 028-33125 Fax: 028-33797 Info@unionhallsmokedfish.com www.unionhallsmokedfish.com

The Taste West Cork Festival Dingle - MyOfKingdom ForFood A Dolphin

Fiona Field - Manager A Taste of West Cork Food Festival

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he 11th Taste of West Cork Food Festival has extended its reach to embrace even more towns and villages for this year’s Festival, which takes place in venues throughout the West Cork region from 5-14th September. With events taking place east to Clonakilty, north to Dunmanway and further west past Bantry, over 50 culinary events have been organized over the ten day Festival.

It all revolves around the country town of Skibbereen. Surrounded by market towns famed for their farming and fishing communities, Skibbereen

Lough Hyne outside Skibbereen, Co Cork Photo by Paul Goode

plays an integral part in both. And the Taste Of West Cork Food Festival that is based there has become a huge tourist draw for visitors travelling to the West, who come to experience the carnival atmosphere that pervades the town during the festival.

It is the ideal base from which to explore the extensive west Cork countryside, where you can try your hand at golf, horse riding, whale watching, kayaking, or deep sea angling. And if none of them appeal, then there’s bound to be something in the Festival itself to whet your appetite.

On Saturday September 6th and 13th, you can stroll around the Skibbereen Farmers Market which runs from 9.30am to 1.30pm. On the two Sundays after, there are farmers markets in Schull, and on the two Fridays before there are markets held in Bantry. You can wander through the stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, sampling the honey, jams, cheeses and homemade breads.

Other festival highlights include daily interactive workshops, tours to organic farms, scenic walks, food tastings, cookery demonstrations and competitions, special themed dinners, brunches and banquets, talks, exhibitions, and several children’s events.

info@atasteofwestcork.com www.atasteofwestcork.com SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 31

Limerick Jazz FestivalFor A Dolphin Dingle - My Kingdom

Van Morrison

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he Limerick Jazz Festival takes place throughout the city between Thursday September 25th and Sunday the 28th. It kicks off on the Thursday evening with a rare visit to the city by none other than the legendary Van Morrison. Unsurprisingly, tickets for that sold out in minutes. But the packed Festival programme offers up any number of other alternatives to whet your appetite.

The David Sanborn Trio Multiple Grammy winning saxophonist David Sanborn plays with his trio at the Lime Tree Theatre on Saturday night at 8pm. Moving effortless between the worlds of pop and traditional Jazz, David has toured with Stevie Wonder, the Rolling Stone and David Bowie, as well as recording and touring with the great Gil Evans. That’s him you can hear on sax on the title track to Bowie’s Young Americans. He went solo in the 80s, and subsequently collaborated with the likes of Paul Simon and James Taylor.

The Dublin City Jazz Orchestra

If it’s the big traditional sound of bold and brassy jazz you’re looking for, then you’ll need to head to 69 O’Connell St on Friday night at 8pm, where the Dublin City Jazz Orchestra will be playing. This 17 piece lead by Ciaran Wilde includes four trumpets, four trombones and five saxophones.

They are going to be performing a selection of tracks from the concert that the Duke Ellington Orchestra performed in 1965 called A Concert Of Sacred Music Live From Grace Cathedral in San Francisco. Also featured here in Limerick are the Limerick Chamber Choir Ancòr under the direction of Cecelia Madden.

Crisis Point Big Band The Festival closes appropriately with a bang on Sunday with the Crisis Point Big Band at the Pegasus Room in the Clarion Hotel on Sunday afternoon at 2pm. The Crisis Point Big Band was put together by John Daly to launch the inaugural Limerick Jazz Festival in 2012, and will be joined this year by a host of national and international star musicians. Julian Siegel from the UK and our own Richie Buckley, as well as vocalists Conor J Ryan and Keith MacDonald.

And they will be supported by the Galway Youth Jazz Orchestra, under the direction of John Flemming, which is part of the Galway Youth Orchestra programme.

It all takes place over the last weekend in September between 25-28th.

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Recommended Pubs For in Munster Dingle - My Kingdom A Dolphin

The Bierhaus Pope’s Quay, Cork 021 455 1648

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

An Brog

72-73 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork 021 4270074

kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.

Jack Meades (under the bridge) Dunmore Rd, Waterford 051 850 950

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860. But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams.

And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

Dick Mack’s

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry 066 915 1960

An Brog has been attending to fans of alternative and indie music for over 20 years now, and they’ve a constantly evolving roster of Djs and live bands catering to all and every musical taste. And best of all, they are open til 2 in the morning, seven days a week.

Buckley’s Bar

The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry.

064 6631037

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick 061 314 483 (ext 1)

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on there. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant. So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May.

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Kenmare Antiques & Collectables

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enmare Antiques & Collectables are located on Henry Street in picturesque Kenmare. It is a treasure trove for collectors, interior decorators and anyone looking for a unique and thoughtful gift.

Catering to both residents and visitors alike, there is a wide variety of stock including sterling silver, silver plate, ceramics and figurines, brass and copper items, small pieces of furniture and prints and all sorts of other art works. Collectors of Irish Silver and fine ceramics from Royal Worcester, Royal Doulton, Beswick and Belleek will be pleased to find that the owner here shares their enthusiasm, and tries to keep a selection in stock at all times!

Other small items such as Georgian and Victorian boxes, tea caddies and writing slopes all make excellent gifts from Ireland, and can be shipped anywhere in the world.

The shop is generally only open during the high season from May to October, Monday to Saturday between 10:30am and 5:30pm, and some Sundays between 12 noon and 4:00pm.

064 664 2788 www.kenmareantiques.com Or visit 14 Henry St, Kenmare Co Kerry

Explore Munster

Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry. When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since.

Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures.

And notwithstanding how impressive an example it is of a medieval castle, this is probably because of the famous stone you will there at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

Which needless to say they duly receive.

021 438 5252

Fota Island Wildlife Park

Fota Wildlife Park is a joint project between the Zoological Society of Ireland and University College Cork. It is an idea that was originally conceived in the 1970s by the former Director of Dublin Zoo, Dr Terry Murphy. The park was originally opened in 1983. It has been listed as one of Ireland’s top ten visitor attractions. Fota is a not for profit organisation, limited by guarantee, and is also a registered charity.

The Burren

The Burren, from the Gaelic word Boireann is an area of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains, and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams. With its innate sense of spiritual peace, extraordinary array of flora and wildlife, and megalithic tombs and monuments older than Egypt’s pyramids, the Burren creates a tapestry of colour and a seductively magical aura which few people leave without wanting to experience again.

To Begin to discover the secrets of the Burren, a walk through the Burren Centre Exhibition is essential.

Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry ( Irish: Mórchuaird Chiarraí) is not a ring in the conventional sense but a 179-km-long circular tourist route in County Kerry. Clockwise from Killarney it follows the N71 to Kenmare, then the N70 around the Iveragh Peninsula to Killorglin, passing through Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Glenbeigh, before returning to Killarney via the N72.

Bunratty Castle

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past. You can explore at your own leisure or join in a guided tour with the experienced guides. At night time the castle is the impressive setting for the medieval castle banquets which are held all year round.

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Louis Mulcahy Pottery

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reate a memory that will last a lifetime, when you create your own pot at Louis Mulcahy Pottery. “My grand-daughter aged 6 made a pot and she was thrilled with the experience”, it’s not just for children, adults too can partake in creating their own masterpiece.

You can also learn how the pottery is made from start to finish at our workshop, see our full range in our extensive showroom, avail of the workshop prices and enjoy home baking and local produce in our Cafe, served on our very own pottery!

Our pottery started as a two person operation in 1975 and today employs over twenty people in a part of Ireland that is rich in history, culture and the 36 -TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2014

Irish language. Be part of what we do, be part of one of the largest potteries in Ireland and be part of the history of Irish handcraft.

Located on the scenic Slea head drive, nestled at the foot of a mountain and overlooking the wild Atlantic of Clogher strand Louis Mulcahy pottery is a place where you can browse, experience, create, learn, immerse yourself and bring home a memory.

066 915 6229 www.louismulcahy.com

Recommended Restaurants in Munster

The Old Convent Clogheen, Co Tipperary 052 746 5565

Milesian

Mail St, Castlegregory, Co Kerry tel 087 979 4337

Hidden away in the village of Clogheen, with the possible exception of the Cashel Palace, this is the finest restaurant in the whole of county Tipperary.

Only one sitting at 8pm, and a set tasting menu at 65 Euro, this is quite simply one of the finest dining experiences in Ireland.

Tel 0866603778.

Small quaint front room restaurant with locally sourced high quality ingredients making this little gem a must visit when in Dingle.

The Lime Tree

Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Co Kerry

Ballymaloe House Shanagarry, Co Cork 021 4652 531

Myrtle Allen bought Ballymaloe in 1948 and she and her extended families have been entertaining and educating the rest of the country ever since.

Not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but whether dining in the restaurant or staying on the grounds, this is about as luxurious as it gets.

064 664 1225 With the possibly exception of Kinsale, Kenmare is Ireland’s unofficial culinary capital. And this is one of the town’s very best restaurants, specializing in wonderfully fresh fish and succulent lamb.

Fishy Fishy Café

Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork.

01 470 0415

Out of the Blue Greg O’Mahonny took over as head chef here in 2010 after spells at some of the best restaurants in Spain and Dublin, including the Mugaritz in San Sebastian and L’Ecrivain in Dublin. And he takes the very best of local Kerry produce and gives them some wonderfully sophisticated flavours.

Dingle Harbour (066) 915 0811.

Dromoland Castle Kinsale is unquestionably the food capital of Ireland, and this by common consent is one of its finest restaurants. Impeccably fresh fish at reasonable prices.

Isaacs Restaurant McCurtain St, Cork city.

021 450 3805

Hidden away in a budget style hotel, Isaacs has always had a reputation with locals for being a considerably better quality restaurant than you might have expected. And as you’d expect, its very reasonably priced too.

The Mustard Seed

Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare 061 368 144 Quite simply one of the most imposing and impressive castles on these islands, it boasts rooms and a restaurant to match its imperious surroundings.

An Canteen Dykgate st Dingle

They serve only only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

Ballingarry, Co Limerick 069 68508

La Cucina

About 40 minutes outside of Limerick City, off the Adare road, this is one of those roomy country houses that’s been transformed into a top class hotel and restaurant. One of the finest restaurants in Munster.

Simply one of the best places for a pizza in the country.

5 University Court, Castleroy, County Limerick.

Tel 061 333980

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Welcome To Connaught

Ancient stone walls in the Aran Islands

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mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province.

Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Connaught has some of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim. Couple these with the beautiful Ashford Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the film ‘The Quiet The Claddagh by night Man ‘ was filmed, and the natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a must for all.

For those interested in a religious experience Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist

he province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language.

These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht.

The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the

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are reputed to have appeared. The apparition was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged from six years to seventy-five and included men, women and children. The shrine has become so popular in modern times that the Ireland West International Airport was built especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to Connaught.

The county also features the pilgrimage site known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks Clew Bay in County Mayo. Thus is considered the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to the present day without interruption. Croagh Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint.

It was on the summit of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom of trekking up the mountain has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside with magnificent views of Clew Bay beneath.

So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught has it all.

A Little Piece of Donegal in Dublin

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his family run business is run by the mother and daughter team of Carol and Linda-Mae Meagle.

Opened in 1995, they are based in the heart of the shopping district of Dublin on the top floor of the St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2.

The Donegal Shop aims to offer a little piece of Donegal in Dublin.

A vast range of traditional knitwear, handknit arans and knitwear and accessories are available, as well as handwoven Donegal tweed jackets,

caps and throws and pens.

With the emphasis of what is “imagined, designed, and made in Ireland”, the shop not only stocks products from Donegal but from all over the country, such as Foxford Woollen Mills and Carraig Donn, all made in Ireland.

They also provide a shipping service, so no matter how much you buy, you won’t have to carry it!

You can check out their online store before you visit the shop itself at www.thedonegalshop.com

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Galway Oyster Festival

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ysters are in season every year between September and April, or, famously, every month with an R in it.

And 60 years ago this year, the Galway Oyster Festival was first held over the last weekend in September. That year, 34 guests feasted on several dozen oysters each, which they washed down with the traditional mix of champagne and Guinness.

That is to say, some washed them down with champagne, others with Guinness. Not you understand in the same glass, though doubtless there were those who had separate glasses of both.

This year, the 60th Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival, to give it its full name, runs from Thursday September 25th until Sunday the 28th. And it is likely to

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be attended by over 20,000 visitors. After the St Patrick’s Day festivities, this is the biggest annual festival held in Ireland.

Every year, the Irish and World Oyster Opening or “shucking” Championships are held as part of the Festival.

Shucking is basically just another word for “opening”, and refers to the special shucking knife used by experts to open the recalcitrant molluscs.

As well as which, there will be any number of events organized to keep everyone in the family both busy and happy.

Seafood trails, the Hot Oyster Awards Cooking Challenge, and a wide variety of foodie talks and tasting events at the Food Village in the Festival Marquee.

And, this being Galway, there’s a Mardi Gras style Gala event snaking its way through the streets of Galway bringing with

it a mixture of live music and an assortment of cooking events.

Since it began in 1954, they reckon that some half a million people have attended, consuming over 3 million oysters and who knows how many pints of porter. From Bob Hope and our own current President, local man Michael D Higgins, to Hollywood film maker John Huston, who had a house down the road, and Martin Sheen, who went to college here just ten years ago.

Quite correctly, both of whom are considered honourary Galwaymen.

It all takes place over the last weekend in September when you too can follow in their footsteps.

091 394637 Or go to www.galwayoysterfestival.com

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isherman Out of Ireland is based in the village of Kilcar, in county Donegal in the far North West of Ireland. And if ever there were a part of the world where quality knitwear would be appreciated, it is this particular corner of Ireland.

Indeed, there is a long tradition here in south west Donegal of producing the kind of clothing that can stand up to the howling gales and driving rain that comes in to smother the land from the wilds of the Atlantic ocean.

Fisherman Out of Ireland wanted to take that proud tradition and propel it into the modern world. Their range of knitwear was established here back in 1991, and from the very beginning they were determined to produce garments that were as stylish as they were durable. Without however losing sight of the central importance of producing garments of only the very highest quality.

They use only 100% natural fibres, such as merino wool and cashmere to create their authentic knitwear. And the yarns they use provide a wonderfully soft feel, as well as providing wearers with their much needed insulating properties.They tend to favour the earthy, natural look which is entirely appropriate, and in keeping with their understandable concern for the environment, and for doing their best to preserve it just as it is. Happily, much of the yarn they use is spun by Donegal Yarns, a mill based in the same village as they are.

Because of which, they are able to keep their carbon footprint down to a bare minimum.

The village of Kilcar where they are located might be one of the more isolated, and therefore beautiful corners of the island, but they ship their ware from there to all four corners of the globe. Their extensive range of knitwear for gents and ladies is sold not only in Ireland, but in Europe, the United States and Asia. Indeed, the company has been so successful at taking a quintessentially local product and turning it into a global one, that they have won the coveted “Exporter of the year“ from the Crafts Council of Ireland for two successive years, in both 2012 and 2013. With that quiet Donegal smile, they are, they like to say, the Kerrygold of the North.

Each season since its launch the Fisherman range has grown and evolved, and today their range features something for everyone: hats, scarves, gloves, wraps and capelets made from luxurious quality yarns. From chunky wool and cashmere sweaters in ribs and stitches, inspired by the traditional Aran patterns, to merino wools, Lambwools and felted wools. And it all manages to look wonderfully traditional, unmistakably Irish and yet impressively stylish and contemporary.

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Explore Connaught

Kylemore Abbey

Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic walled garden. The castle was bought by the Benedictine nuns in 1920.

The Victorian walled garden was re-opened in 1999 and won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food. This is a gem and should definitely be at the top of any visitors list.

Glencar Waterfall

Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. As you reach Glencar which straddles the border between counties Sligo and Leitrim with its dramatic steep cliffs, you will notice a series of waterfalls cascading from the heights.

Glencar waterfall is perhaps the most dramatic, descending from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Inishbofin Island

Inishbofin (island of the white cow) is situated seven miles off the Galway coastline and is an extremely popular tourist attraction.The island is 5.7km by 4km, and has three official looped walks of varying difficulties, each offering spectacular views of the island’s wild Atlantic scenery. The island also has several safe, award winning sandy beaches, and its clear waters make swimming, snorkelling and diving a joy. Two of the beaches on Inishbofin have been awarded the ‘Green Coast Award’, prized for their exceptional water quality and their natural, unspoilt environment.

Croagh Patrick

Connemara

Mullaghmore

Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Indeed, on 8 March 2012, surfers and windsurfers from all over the world rode waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable. And it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Bulbin mountain.

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Connemara is one of God’s gifts to this world with unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the North through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean.

This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Connemara’s land boundary with the rest of County Galway is marked by the Invermore River which flows into the north of Kilkieran Bay.

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside. You get spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding Mayo countryside from all stages as you climb.

Widely considered the holiest mountain in Ireland, pilgrimages date all the way back to the time of the pagans, when people are thought to have gathered here to celebrate the beginning of harvest season. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croag Patrick every year.

098 64114

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught

Kai Café

Sea Rd. Galway city. 091 526 003

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

The Cottage Restaurant Jamestown, Co. Leitrim. 071 962 5933

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Ashford Castle

Cong, Co. Mayo. 094 954 6003 Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Upstairs @ West Restaurant The Twelve, Barna, Galway city. 091 597000

David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

Waterfront House Restaurant Enniscrone, County Sligo. 096 37120

Eala Bhán

Rockwood Parade, Sligo town. 071 914 5823

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

The Yew Tree Restaurant

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon. 090 666 1255 Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years.

Superior bistro food.

An Port Mór Restaurant

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo. 098 26730

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike.

Fresh Seafood is a specialty.

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Recommended Pubs in Connaught

Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons) 17 Cross st, Galway 091 568 820

Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with the stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

Roísín Dubh

Lower Dominick St., Galway 091 586 540 It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate there are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

The Quays

11 Quay St, Galway 091 568 347

premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Furey’s Pub Bridge St, Sligo 087 958 3080

Furey’s is located in the centre of Sligo, and is your no nonsense, strictly Irish trad music only, Irish pub. And they are as keen on real beer as they are on serious music, offering up an impressive choice craft beers.

Bosh Bar and Restaurant Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo 094 925 0534

Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Matt Malloy’s Bridge St., Westport 098 26655

This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

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Welcome to Ulster

Marble Arch Caves

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he Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone. The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh as over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

is the most notable. The famous mountains or ‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Belfast City Hall

Giants Causeway

Malin Head

County Donegal is in the northwest of the Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly

County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway.

However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name SEPTEMBER 2014-TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE- 45

Belfast Botanic Gardens

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stone’s throw away from Queen’s University in the heart of Belfast, the Botanic Gardens sit on 28 acres of perfectly tended lawns and gardens. You can call in to the Ulster Museum on your way in if you like, which is located at its main entrance. But most of the students, tourists and locals who visit tend to make their way in to the gardens proper, for a quiet lunch or a gentle stroll.

At the heart of the Gardens is the Palm House conservatory, which was built by Richard Turner in 1840. It was one of the very earliest curvilinear, cast iron glasshouses built anywhere in the world. Turner would subsequently take what he had learnt from the buildings he had put up in Belfast when he then went on to construct the famous glasshouses that still stand at Kew in England, as well as the ones he also went on to build in Glasnevin in Dublin.

The Palm House is made up of two wings, the cool wing, and the tropical wing which is where you’ll find the large dome which was added there in 1852. And just around the corner, you can visit the Tropical Ravine House, which was added by the then Head Gardener Charles McKimm in 1889. It was he who insisted on the sunken ravine that runs from one end to the other, allowing for that extra bit of height to further cultivate the exotic plants within.

But a few years later the Gardens went bankrupt, and in 1895 they were taken over by the cIty Council who have been running them ever since.

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anywhere in the Gardens. But very occasionally, you can spot a stray student sneaking the odd can of something that they oughtn’t strictly to be drinking. And of late, the Gardens have been used as the venue for a series of highly successful gigs.

U2 played here in 1997 as they took their PopMart Tour across the world, and were supported by local favourites Ash. And for a number of years, the ViTal Festival was held in the Gardens, which saw the likes of The White Stripes, the Kings Of Leon and The Coral as well as Belfast band Snow Patrol appear.

But those are rare bursts of noise in what is generally an oasis of tranquility. So whether you are looking for somewhere to escape to for a quick lunchtime break, or for somewhere to retreat to for an entire afternoon of peace and quiet spent amongst the calm and fragrance of the beautiful Rose garden, which was added in 1932, the Botanic Gardens are the ideal spot to rest your weary limbs and recharge those batteries.

See www.belfastcity.gov.uk

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast

Since it opened in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, and over a million visitors went through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six story building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the very site where the famous ship was first built.

Once you enter the building proper, you’re introduced to the building’s giant atrium surrounded by the four “ships”, hull shaped wings which act as the beginning of the Titanic experience. Your journey will then take you through the building’s nine galleries, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The story is brought up to the present with the discovery of the wreck, and into the future with live links to contemporary undersea exploration.

And the galleries employ a variety of interactive media including CGI, film, audio, artefacts and full-scale replicas. Not only that, there’s an actual ride through the Titanic giving you a view of how the ship was physically put together.

Tel 028 9076 6386

The Giant’s Causeway

The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast north of the town of Bushmills. Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to the East to take on a giant who lived over there.

Voted by BBC Radio listeners as the fourth greatest natural wonder in the UK, visitors flock here from all over the world to marvel at one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines and its unique rock formations, which have stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms for millions of years. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire people. And to stroll along the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time.

In 1986 they opened the Giants Causeway Visitors centre, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its coveted list of sites, which are of exceptional interest and universal value. And the National Trust which oversees the Causeway provides the half million tourists who go there every year with any and all the information that they might need.

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The Old Bushmills Distillery In 1608, King James I of England granted Sir Thomas Phillipps a license to distil whiskey, and Bushmills became the first ever distillery in the world to begin officially producing it. “Whiskey” with an “e” is Irish by the way, and without is Scotch. And the word itself originated from the Irish word for water, “uisce”. Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

In 2008, Bushmills celebrated the 400th anniversary of their original licence to distil whiskey. They marked the occasion with the release of a limited edition Irish whiskey of exceptional smoothness, Bushmills 1608. Today Bushmills Irish Whiskey is owned by Diageo, and over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Tel 028 2073 3218

Ulster American Folk Park

Situated at the base of the Sperrin mountain range just 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier. Meet an array of costumed characters on your way with traditional crafts to show, tales to tell and food to share.

And you can also avail of the facilities at the residential centre and museum restaurant. They offer an array of en-suit rooms, and dorms that sleep up to 7 in bunk beds, with linen, laundry and drier rooms, plus kitchens, bathrooms, and TV, DVD and games rooms.

Museum: +44 (0) 28 8224 3292 Residential centre: +44 (0)28 8224 0918

Recommended Restaurants in Ulster

Ox

1 Oxford St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 4121 Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 213, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014. Chic, smart and very good.

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Coco

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 1150

The Ginger Bistro

7-8 Hope St, Belfast. 0044 28 9024 4421

55 Degrees North

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim. 0044 28 7082 2811

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

Vanilla Restaurant

67 Main St, Newcastle. 0044 28 4372 2268 Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

Deane’s Restaurant

36-40 Howard St, Belfast. 0044 28 9033 1134

Lough Erne Resort

Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

Shu

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast. 0044 28 9038 1655 They serve deliberately simple, French-influenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

Telfords Restaurant

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6632 3230

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast. 0044 28 9043 4000 Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

Sun Kee Restaurant

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast. 0044 28 9031 2016 One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

Lusty Beg

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh. 0044 28 6863 3300 This island spa is set on a 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to

Sakura, 82 Botanic Av, Belfast

0044 28 9043 9590 In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

Speranza Restaurant, 16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast 044 28 9023 0213 Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

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Ulster Recommended Pubs

The Crown Liquor Saloon 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast 028 9024 3187

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by by local poet, socialist and Freedman of the CIty, John Hewitt. Hence the name.

They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace! Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin.

White’s Tavern

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast 028 9024 3080 Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

Kelly’s Cellars 30-32 Bank St, Belfast 028 9024 6058

Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and it exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

The John Hewitt 51 Donegall St., Belfast 028 9023 3768

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

The Duke Of York 7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast 028 9024 1062

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

Peadar O’Donnell’s 59-63 Waterloo St., Derry 028 7126 7295

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore. Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

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Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence Take the time to enjoy our magical CASTLE GARDENS

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie