Travel in Taiwan (No.62, 2014 3/4)

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No. 62, 2014

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Mountain Trip

Delightful Alishan TOP TEN TOURIST TOURS Nanzhuang in Miaoli County

BACKPACK BUS TOURS Taking the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle to Sun Moon Lake

FOOD JOURNEY

Organic Kumquat Farming in Yilan Indigenous Artist Demedeman Round-the-Island Bicycle Ride Hiking to the Mysterious Shuiyang Forest Traditional Taiwanese Cakes and Pastries

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler, Taiwan does not experience the winter snows that other lands do, but when the warming airs of spring wash over the island each year the same “spring fever” grips the people, as does the urge to get out on the road and explore.

Where can you go, and what can you do? Here’s the plate of samplers this month’s issue of Travel in Taiwan presents to you.

In our Feature section we visit the Alishan area, exploring high-mountain tea plantations, an alpine-railway town called Fenqihu, the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, the region’s extensive trail network and attractive indigenous Tsou tribe culture, and much more. As always in this section, we also give advice on where to stay, where and what to eat, and what souvenir items to buy.

In our Top Ten Tourist Tours f ile we visit the town of Nanzhuang in the high hills of Miaoli County, savoring the many local heritage sites, the distinctive Hakka culture and cuisine, and the culture of the area’s indigenous peoples. Continuing with the indigenous culture theme, we spend time with artist Demedeman in our Indigenous Artists department, a young member of the Paiwan tribe who is preserving her cultural heritage and introducing her tribe’s traditions to the world.

Those with an interest in history and a bit of a sweet tooth will especially enjoy this issue’s Special Report section, in which we travel f rom the island’s north to south to visit the f lagship outlets of some of Taiwan’s most venerable and prestigious names in traditional-style confections – all of which have introduced modern twists of decidedly delicious interest for the palates of visitors f rom faraway lands East and West. Elsewhere on the food-theme f ront, in our Food Journey department we delve deep into the world of local kumquat cultivation with a visit to an organic orchard in the northeast.

Staying outside to take f ull advantage of the warm spring sun, among the other available travel experiences we paint for you with photos and the written word are an exploration of tourist-favorite Sun Moon Lake in the central mountains via the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle service, the Formosa 900, a bicycle adventure in which teams of participants circumnavigate Taiwan in nine days, and a hike to the Shuiyang Forest and its earthquake-created mystery lake.

Welcome to Taiwan, where I promise the spring and the people will embrace you with great travel-easing warmth!

David W. J. Hsieh Director General Tourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

CONTENTS March ~ April 2014

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PUBLISHER David W. J. Hsieh Editing Consultant

,

Producer Vision Int l Publ. Co., Ltd. Address Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan

TEL: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790 E-MAIL: editor@v-media.com.tw Publishing Organization endy L. C. Yen General Manager W Taiwan Tourism Bureau, Ministry of rank K. Yen Deputy General Manager F Transportation and Communications Editor in Chief Johannes Twellmann CONTACT International Division, Taiwan Tourism Bureau English Editor Rick Charette DIRECTOR OF PLANNING & EDITING DEPT Joe Lee Add: 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, MANAGING EDITOR Gemma Cheng 10694, Taiwan EDITORS Ming-Jing Yin, Chloe Chu, Nickey Liu Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 CONTRIBUTORS Rick Charette, Paul Naylor, Joe Henley, Stuart E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Dawson, Owain Mckimm Website: http://taiwan.net.tw PHOTOGRAPHERS Jen Guo-Chen, Maggie Song, 台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊 Duncan Longden, Fred Cheng Travel in Taiwan ART DIRECTOR Sting Chen The Official Bimonthly English DESIGNERS Fred Cheng, Maggie Song, Eve Chiang, Karen Pan Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism ui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang Administrative Dept H

Wayne Hsi-Lin Liu

Bureau (Advertisement) March/April, 2014 Tourism Bureau, MOTC First published Jan./Feb., 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200 www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm

Copyright @ 2014 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

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Alishan National Forest Recreation Area (photo by Jen Guo-Chen)

This magazine is printed on FSC TM COC certified paper. Any product with the FSC TM logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

This magazine was printed with soy ink.

Soybean is said to be more environmentally friendly than petroleum-based ink and to make it easier to recycle paper.

FEATURE

10 Alishan – Where the Sun Starts Its Day — A Journey into High-Mountain Alishan National Scenic Area

Sleeping and Eating in the Clouds — Tips on Where to Stay and Where/What to Eat at Alishan

1 Publisher’s Note 4 Taiwan Tourism Events 6 News & Events around Taiwan 8 Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings 33 Fun with Chinese

TOP TEN TOURIST TOURS 20

Lovely Nanzhuang — A Little Town in the Miaoli Countryside

INDIGENOUS ARTISTS 24

Paiwan Artist Demedeman — Keeping Indigenous Traditions Alive

HIKING

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28 Shuiyang Forest

— Hiking to a Mystery Lake Created by an Earthquake

OLD STYLE/NEW IDEAS 30

The Amazing Bamboo — An (Almost) Obsolete Material Survives in Modern Times

FOOD JOURNEY

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36 Yilan’s Kumquats

— Visiting an Organic Orchard in Taiwan’s Northeast

BACKPACK BUS TRIP 40

On the Way to Sun Moon Lake — Riding a Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus through Nantou County

SPECIAL REPORTS 44 50

2014 – Taiwan’s Year of the Horse, Your Year for Taiwan Travel One of Taiwan’s Sweetest Things — Its Cake Culture

SPLENDID FESTIVALS 46

The Formosa 900 — Around Taiwan on a Bicycle

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Travel in Taiwan

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

Festivals

in Late Spring Happenings Highlighting Taiwan’s Nature and Culture

Following the early-spring flower season, late spring has yet more in store for flower-loving travelers, namely the cherry blossoms of Alishan, calla lilies of Yangmingshan, and tung tree blossoms of northwestern Taiwan and other areas.

On the cultural front, the annual Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage, one of the world’s great religious gatherings, is certainly not to be missed, and the Spring Wave Music & Art Festival is a must-experience event for music-loving people.

Mar.

Alishan Sakura Season ( 櫻花季音樂會 )

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Apr.

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Location: Alishan National Forest Recreation Area ( 阿里山國家森林遊樂區 ), Chiayi County ( 嘉義縣 ) Tel: (05) 278-7006 Website: recreation.forest.gov.tw The mountainous Alishan area in southwestern Taiwan’s Chiayi County is worth a visit at any time of the year, its most popular attractions being the famous alpine forest railway, the sunrise over Mt. Jade, which is Taiwan’s highest mountain, and the “sea of clouds” that form in and completely fill the deep valleys. Alishan is especially delightful in springtime, however, when its cherry trees are in full bloom. The Alishan National Forest Recreation Area is perhaps the best place in Taiwan to enjoy the profusion of pink and crimson blossoms. Paired with the cherry blossoms, its romantic sunrise and forest train scenes create unforgettable images.

Mar. Calla Lily Festival ( 竹子湖海芋季 ) Location: Zhuzihu ( 竹子湖 ), Beitou District ( 北投區 ), Taipei City ( 臺北市 ) Tel: (02) 2892-4185 Website: www.callalily.com.tw Many visitors to Taiwan are quite amazed that there is a national park less than an hour by bus from downtown Taipei. Yangmingshan is home to a beautiful park indeed, with verdant mountains, hot springs, trails, and plenty of fresh air.

Within its boundaries, situated between Mt. Datun and Mt. Qixing, is an area named Zhuzihu (“Bamboo Lake”), where a long, long time ago a barrier lake was created after a volcanic eruption. The lake dried up over time, leaving behind fertile earth that is now used by farmers to cultivate ivory-white calla lilies. During this festival, flower lovers flock to Zhuzihu to pick flowers in the fields and take memorable photos. The festival also features a design exhibition in which lilies and other seasonal flowers are used to create beautiful landscapes.

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Mar.

May

The Hakka Tung Blossom Festival in Miaoli ( 苗栗客家桐花祭 ) Locations: Counties and cities around Taiwan Tel: (02) 8995-6988 Website: tung.hakka.gov.tw Each year in May you can spot “snow” on trees in certain areas of Taiwan, especially in the foothills of Miaoli County. How come? It is not real snow, of course, but the blossoms of the tung tree, which is in full bloom at this time of the year. Originally planted by the Hakka people for their oil and wood, tung trees, no longer used for commercial purposes and left to grow on their own, have spread over large hilly areas, much to the delight of hikers and flower-lovers. To celebrate the blooming season, local governments stage numerous activities and events, many combining the beauty of flowers with celebrations of traditional Hakka culture. This is a great time to go for a walk in the forest and marvel at the profusion of blossoms on trees and along trails, where expansive “white carpets” are often created.

MARCH~MAY

Apr.

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Spring Wave Music & Art Festival ( 春浪音樂節 ) Location: Wuliting Airport, Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮五里亭機場 ) Tel: (02) 2356-9888 Website: www.spring-wave.com Spring Wave is one of Taiwan’s biggest annual outdoor music festivals. The venue is the grounds of Hengchun Airport, not far from the popular beach-resort town of Kending at Taiwan’s southernmost tip. During the 3-day event, music fans can enjoy the pleasant spring weather of southern Taiwan while listening to the music of many of Taiwan’s top music acts. Last year, the festival attracted more than 200,000 revelers, who also came to attend the Spring Scream music festival at Eluanbi, southeast of Kending town. Around 250 independent bands performed, including 60 foreign bands, and there was also a Moonlight Foam Party at South Bay (Nanwan), one of Kending’s best beaches.

Mar.

May

Taichung City Mazu International Festival ( 臺中媽祖國際觀光文化節 ) Location: Dajia Jenn Lann Temple ( 大甲鎮瀾宮 ); 158, Shuntian Rd., Dajia Dist., Taichung City ( 臺中市大甲區順天路 158 號 ) Tel: (04) 2228-9000 Website: www.culture.taichung.gov.tw If you are interested in local culture and want to experience how the faithful people here go about celebrating the birthday of their most beloved goddess, you don’t want to miss this festival, which is part of the annual Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage, an 8-day, 7-night walk during which Mazu temples in central and southern Taiwan are visited. Many of the festival’s traditional ceremonies are held at Dajia’s Jenn Lann Temple, the start and end point of the pilgrimage. The festival attracts huge crowds, and it can become a bit frantic at times, showing how passionate the Taiwanese people are about their faith. During the pilgrimage, a statue of Mazu is carried on a sedan chair, and up to 200,000 people will do part or all of the long march from Dajia in Taichung to the town of Xingang in Chiayi County and back.

Mar.

May Dapeng Bay International Regatta ( 大鵬灣國際風帆系列活動 ) Location: Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area ( 大鵬灣國家風景區 ), Pingtung County ( 屏東縣 ) Tel: (08) 833-8100 Website: www.dbnsa.gov.tw Dapeng Bay is a large lagoon just south of the harbor town of Donggang in southwestern Taiwan. It is part of the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area and has been developed as a recreational area, allowing visitors to explore the interesting ecological environment and engage in a variety of water sports. The Dapeng Bay International Regatta is the largest event of its kind in Taiwan, and attracts large crowds who come to experience sailing and wind surfing on the calm waters of the bay. There’s also a sailboat race for experienced sailors from the main island of Taiwan to the small coral island of Xiao Liuqiu, southwest of Dapeng Bay, which is a popular tourist destination in its own right.

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WHAT'S UP

News & Events around Taiwan

Tourism

Zoo

Eight Million Visitors in 2013

Little Panda Biggest Star in Taipei Zoo

The year 2013 was a successful one for Taiwan’s tourism industry in terms of visitor arrivals. Just before the end of the year, on December 31 at 1pm, the 8-millionth visitor arrived in Taiwan at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport, setting a new high for international visitors in one calendar year. Arriving on an EVA Air flight from Japan, Aya Omote and her husband were greeted by officials at the airport and presented with a variety of gifts, valued at NT$500,000 in total, to celebrate the occasion. The couple received two round-trip business-class tickets to anywhere in Asia from Taiwan, coupons for free accommodation in fivestar hotels, tickets to an entertainment complex, tour-bus tickets, a three-day High Speed Rail pass, bicycles, and electronic devices.

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After a six-month wait, panda lovers in Taiwan finally got to see her up close – Yuanzai, the Taipei Zoo’s baby panda.

Thousands of curious visitors have been drawn to the zoo since the beginning of the year, hoping to see the little critter move about, a rare sight considering the panda sleeps up to 20 hours a day. The panda is the first born in Taiwan; her parents came from mainland China in 2008. If you can’t make it to the zoo, but still want to see little Yuanzai, you can watch her online at hichannel.hinet.net/panda/ (live broadcast from 4 to 5pm local time each day). Zoo website: english.zoo.taipei.gov.tw.

Movie

A Touching Baseball Story The film Kano , produced by Wei Te-sheng, the award-winning Taiwanese director of Cape No. 7 and Seediq Bale , is one of Taiwan’s films to watch this year. Released in February, it tells the remarkable story of a high-school baseball team from Chiayi, in southern Taiwan, that was invited to compete in the 1931 Koshien all-Japan tournament and, to the surprise of everyone, made it to the finals. The team, comprised of members of three ethnic groups – Japanese, Han Chinese, and indigenous – and a tough Japanese coach, took a boat from Keelung in northern Taiwan to Kobe in Japan and, though facing far superior competition, almost won it all with a good share of luck and a “never give up” attitude. Wei, who also wrote the script, has added a love story to the drama, which has all the components of a feel-good movie.

Airlines

Dubai-Taipei Flights by Emirates Since this February, Emirates airline has been offering non-stop flights between Dubai and Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport.

There are three flights daily, giving travelers from the Middle East and Europe more options to reach Taiwan.

Emirates chairman and chief executive of ficer Sheik h Ahmed bin Saeed al- Mak toum (center) with p olitical deput y minister at the Ministr y of Transp or tation and Communications of Taiwan Chen Chwen-Jing (lef t), and deput y direc tor general of Taiwan’s Civil Aero nautic s Administration Wan- Lee Lee (right)

Sightseeing

Love River Cruises The Love River in Kaohsiung has become one of the city’s main tourist attractions in recent years. Especially in the evening, the river attracts many people who come to stroll along the riverside, taking in the charming night views. The Love Boat service allows you to travel on the river itself, on eco-friendly boats powered by solar panels. A new generation of the craft has recently been introduced, and both catering and live-music entertainment are now offered. A 100-min. cruise (incl. buffet and entertainment) is available from NT$500 per person on weekdays, NT$700 on weekends and holidays. Cruises without food and music are available for NT$120. For more info, visit kcs.kcg.gov.tw/new_kcb/index_en.php.

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CULTURE SCENE

Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

Taiwan has a diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters to makeshift stages on temple plazas. Among Taiwan's museums is the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many smaller museums dedicated to different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more information, please visit the websites of the listed venues.

March 28 & 29 National Theater

Ballet Flamenco Eva Yerbabuena: Lluvia 伊娃 • 葉爾芭波娜佛朗明哥舞團《雨》 Eva Yerbabuena, one of the most celebrated contemporary flamenco dancers, was born in 1970 and has been dancing flamenco since she was 12. She has performed around the world, including the Sydney Opera House, and has been recognized with numerous prestigious awards. In Lluvia (Rain), a classic Spanish flamenco work, she presents her highly praised speed, power, and dramatic footwork. Accompanied by four dancers and her ensemble of musicians, she delivers an unforgettable performance, producing despairing monologues with her feet and making one lament while at the same time being thrilled by the charms of the dance form. For more info about Eva Yerbabuena, visit www.evayerbabuena.com/en/.

April 6 Taipei Zhongshan Hall

The Dialogue of Ancestral Spirits

January 18 ~ April 20 Taipei Fine Arts Museum

Telling Details: Photorealism in Taiwan 見微知萌→台灣超寫實繪畫 This exhibition is not a display of photographs, but of superrealistic paintings based on photographs. Super-realism, also called photorealism, is a modern art form that originated in the 1970s in New York. More accurate than realism, the focus of this form is the reproduction of images in new, objective form.

To achieve this, painters will often take an image with a camera, develop it as either slide or print, project the image on a canvas, and apply realistic painting technique to achieve the lifelike visual effect of a photograph. The exhibition features works by several ethnic-Chinese artists who have lived and worked in New York, as well as Taiwan-based artists of different generations who have mastered the art of super-realistic painting.

April 17~ 20 Novel Hall

Cloud Gate 2: Spring Riot

Cloud Gate 2, the junior company in Taiwan’s Cloud Gate Dance Theatre, was formed in 1999 by the theatre’s founder and artistic director, Lin Hwai-min. The company showcases talented young dancers in original works by innovative young choreographers. Spring Riot is Cloud Gate 2’s annual spring-season program, and performances are highly anticipated. This year, the company will present Dorian Gray by choreographer Cheng Tsun-lung, adapted from Oscar Wilde’s novel The Picture of Dorian Gray, Yaangad

by Bulareyaung Pagarlava, which will include live singing by Sangpuy, a member of Taiwan’s indigenous Puyuma tribe, and The Floating Area by Huang Yi, presented to the sound of Bach’s Piano Concerto in D Minor. For more info about Cloud Gate Dance Theatre, visit www. cloudgate.org.tw.

祖靈對話

This music event will be something special. Singers from Taiwan’s indigenous tribes will be joined on stage by percussionists from Africa and the Taipei Chinese Orchestra. Celebrating tribal music, the artists will create a wonderful spiritual experience.

Website of the Taipei Chinese Orchestra: www.tco.taipei.gov.tw.

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雲門 2：春鬥

Venues Taipei

Taipei Zhongshan Hall （台北中山堂）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市延平南 路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (02) 2381-3137 www.csh.taipei.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: Ximen

Taipei International Convention Center（台北國際會議中心） Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City ( 台北市信義 路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei 101/World Trade Center

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall（國立中正紀念堂） Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2343-1100 www.cksmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall（國家音樂聽） National Theater（國家戲劇院） Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市中山南 路 21-1 號 )

Tel: (02) 3393-9888 www.ntch.edu.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （國立歷史博物館）

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 南海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270 www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （國立故宮博物院）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City ( 台北市至 善路二 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021 www.npm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan Museum （國立臺灣博物館）

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市 襄 陽 路 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2382-2566 www.ntm.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

Novel Hall（新舞臺） Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市松 壽路 3 號 )

Tel: (02) 2722-4302 www.novelhall.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Kuandu Museum of Fine Arts （關渡美術館）

Add: 1 Xueyuan Rd., Beitou District, Taipei City ( 台北市北投區學園路 1 號 ) Tel: (02) 2896-1000 www.kdmofa.tnua.edu.tw Nearest MRT Station: Guandu

（國立國父紀念館）

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City ( 台北市仁 愛 路 四 段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (02) 2758-8008 www.yatsen.gov.tw/en Nearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena（台北小巨蛋）

Taichung National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts（國立台灣美術館） Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City

Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City

( 台中市五權 西 路 一段 2 號 )

( 台北市 南 京 東 路 四 段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552 www.ntmofa.gov.tw

Tel: (02) 2577-3500 www.taipeiarena.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Taipei Fine Arts Museum （台北市立美術館）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City ( 台北市中山北 路三段 181 號 )

Tel: (02) 2595-7656 www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei（台北當代藝術館）

Tainan Tainan City Cultural Center （台南市立文化中心）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City ( 台南 市中華東 路三段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864 www.tmcc.gov.tw

Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市長 安 西 路 3 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720 www.mocataipei.org.tw Nearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

TWTC Nangang Exhibiton Hall （台北世貿中心南港展覽館）

Add: 1, Jingmao 2nd Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市經貿二路 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200 www.twtcnangang.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Nangang Exhibition Hall

Kaohsiung Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts（高雄市立美術館） Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City ( 高 雄 市美 術館 路 8 0 號 )

Tel: (07) 555-0331 www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Kaohsiung Museum of History （高雄市立歷史博物館）

ATT Show Box Add: 12, Songshou Rd., Taipei City ( 台北市松壽路 12 號 ) Tel: (02) 7737-8881 www.attshowbox.com.tw Nearest MRT Station: Taipei 101/World Trade Center

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City ( 高 雄 市中正四 路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (07) 531-2560 http://163.32.121.205 Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

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FEATURE

Alishan

Where the Sun Starts Its Day A Journey into High-Mountain Alishan National Scenic Area

Alishan Nat ional Forest Re creat ion Area

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Travel in Taiwan

ALISHAN

Text: Rick Charette

Photos: Jen Guo-Chen

This Alishan three-day adventure begins on the island’s Western flatlands with visits to attractions located just before the gap in the mountain wall at the town of Chukou that gives access to the rugged, ever-higher peaks hiding beyond. Provincial Highway No. 18 takes you there, and we head upward and skyward along its dramatic twists to the area around the small settlement of Fenqihu, a place of great character whose original reason for being was to serve as a halfway station and timber-loading point on the Alishan Forest Railway, one of the world’s highest and most picturesque lines.

The adventure ends far, far higher still, in the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, the jewel in the Alishan crown.

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FEATURE

Located

in Chiayi County, Alishan National Scenic Area (www.ali-nsa.net ) is a well-developed tourist resort and recreation area that brings countless numbers of sightseers on pilgrimages to take in spectacular sunrises over what the Taiwanese poetically call yunhai , or “seas of clouds,” which dramatically roll into the deep valleys like a great incoming tide, and which you witness from above. The pristine, tranquil region is defined by lofty peaks, long and deep valleys, soaring stands of cedar, cypress, and pine, massive “sacred trees” over a thousand years old that stand like immortals amidst their much younger brethren, picturesque tea and coffee plantations, an attractive network of trails, Tsou tribe culture, fresh and tasty mountain produce, and fun alpine forest railway rides.

The national scenic area abuts Yushan National Park (www.ysnp.gov.tw ), home to Taiwan’s loftiest peak, Yushan or Mt. Jade.

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Day 1 On the Plains around Chukou

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Graceful Wufeng Temple is beside Highway 18 in the township of Zhongpu, not far from Chukou. An interesting window into Taiwan history, it was built in 1820 in honor of Wu Feng, a figure of controversy. It is said he was a Qing Dynasty official in this area, respected by both Han Chinese immigrants and the local indigenous peoples, who tricked the latter into giving up their headhunting ways by disguising himself and allowing them to cut off his head. The tale has given rise to much political controversy. The display here presents the story as true.

Just before Chukou and your mountain ascent are a number of sites, located close to each other along Highway 18, that will bring you reward. The spanking-new Alishan NSA Chukou Visitor Center, in an expansive facility of dynamic architecture, has English-speaking staff, English brochures, and visually attractive displays on such topics as the area’s tea production and Tsou indigenous culture. There is also a wellproduced 18-minute introductory video offered; ask the desk staff to play the English version.

ALISHAN

Tsou Tribe and Yokeoasu Market Right beside the visitor center is a Tsou tribe community. The northern Tsou have long called Alishan home. The tidy modern-style homes here, built after Typhoon Morakot roared across the island in 2009, feature decorative patterns imitating those used on traditional Tsou attire.

The Yokeoasu Market, staged at the community center on weekends/holidays, showcases Tsou arts and crafts, traditional song and dance, food delicacies, and mountain produce (with Taiwan’s other tribes represented as well). I find the colorful yet elegant hand-crafted, internationalquality leather goods particularly fetching, featuring scenes from Tsou myths (with tagged explanations).

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1. Wufeng Temple 2. Alishan NSA Chukou V isitor Center 3 & 4 Chukou Nature Center 5. Niupuzi Leisure Park

Across from the visitor and community centers is large, long Niupuzi Leisure Park, which runs between the highway and parallel Bazhang River and is being developed as a space of floral landscapes to be used for relaxed strolls and bicycling. Back on the same side as the visitor center and not far away is the Taiwan Forestry Bureau’s Chukou Nature Center (recreation.forest.gov.tw ; info on center in Chinese only), which has pleasant shaded paths, a copy of the wood-built fire-lookout towers the bureau constructs on high-mountain points, an eco-pond area showcasing sustainable nature-reengineering practices, and a tree bank with proud old specimens brought here for protection.

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Chukou is dramatically set right where the Bazhang River suddenly emerges from the mountain wall. Oft called the gateway to Alishan, adding to the visual drama are two long river-spanning suspension bridges built by the Japanese in 1937, with a large, ornate Chinese temple off the end of one. The temple’s market area formed in the days before the highway was punched through; Chukou was once a major commercial entrepot, handling flatland goods destined for the hills and Alishan produce headed into the flatlands.

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FEATURE

Day 2 Up to the Mid-Level Hills and Fenqihu Your trusted writer must here confess to a bit of a fib. It is almost guaranteed that multi-day Alishan sojourners, even if spending a good deal of time at the sites in the section above, will be up in the mountains toward the end of Day 1, looking to witness the iconic sea of clouds phenomenon and to take in the day’s sunset and, perhaps, the next day’s sunrise. I’ve manipulated the “Day” sections in this article a tad so as to give you a better sense of each region’s physical separation and differences.

The Fenqihu-Shizhuo area is 1,200~1,500 meters above sea level. Shizhuo village is on Highway 18; Fenqihu is reached via a pretty, gently winding, treehugged 5km road. This is tea country, and steep-slope tea plantations are almost always in view.

Souvenir shopping for the mellow, premiumquality Alishan high-mountain Oolong is pretty much obligatory, and I find Sheng Le Farm (www.sheng-le. com ; Chinese), at Xiding, below Shizhuo on Highway 18, one of the most pleasant and relaxing places to do so.

It has an airy retail area, rustic café/restaurant with big windows to let in the moving seas of clouds panoramas, and a homestay facility. All the teas are from the picturesque surrounding fields, English is spoken in the retail area, and you can even tour the on-site production facilities. Sheng Le also produces Alishan coffee.

3 Scenic Fenqihu has a duo of raisons d’etre – the Alishan Forest Railway was built in the early 1900s by the Japanese to bring logged timber down to the plains, and this spot was both close to great timber stands and could serve as a halfway storage and repair depot. A place of low wooden houses, Fenqihu is fit snugly into a high slope where two mountain bodies meet.

At its top, just above the tracks (the railway is closed indefinitely for maintenance) are homespun wood-built cafés with splendid forest and valley views. Along the tracks you’ll find the attractive old Japanese-built station, the old train depot (free entry), which houses logging-era engines and a model showing the amazing engineering involved in the alpine railway, and a thick showcase stand of six-meter-high square bamboo, brought here from south China in 1941 for use in building, handicrafts, etc.

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Fenqihu Old Street runs just below the tracks. Lined tightly with heritage shops selling iconic foods and crafts, at points it is covered and so narrow that is it more corridor than street. Two very welcoming wood-décor shops sell traditional baked items such as sun cakes, mochi, and Taiwan-style cookies made with

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ALISHAN

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7 Alishan’s Sunsets and Seas of Clouds Here are my votes for the best locations to take in Alishan’s sunsets and seas of clouds:

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5 1. Sheng Le Farm tea plantation 2. Sheng Le Farm café/restaurant 3. Fenqihu Railway Station 4 & 5 Fenqihu old train dep ot

9 6 Yoshino cherr y blossoms 7 & 8 Fenqihu Historical E xhibition Room 9. Japanese horseradish

Sunsets: The Eryanping Trail, which starts beside Highway No. 18 at Xiding (53.5km mark), below Shizhuo. “Xiding” means “top of the crevice,” indicating the pass/crevice used by early settlers when heading to Eryanping Mountain. You walk among bamboo stands, tea fields, and strangely shaped rocks, and have grand views of the plains in the far distance.

This trail is also good for the seas of clouds.

Cloud-sea viewing: The Upper Shizhuo Trail, which starts just off Highway 18 just up a Shizhuo side road, and moves upslope through tea farms. There is a large cluster of homestays here, one close to the trailhead recommended in our Stay/Eat article. As you wait for the sea and it then moves massively past and below you, a calming sense of serenity envelops you.

fresh local ingredients. DerMing’s (No. 146) gift boxes feature old-time Alishan steam locomotives, and Trainpei (No. 142) offers a large assorted-goodie giftbox with rope handles that is itself a steam locomotive.

For me, aficionado of spiced-up foods, a must-buy is the popular Alishan wasabi, sold at numerous shops here in cute and colorful little containers that look like oldtime milk bottles. The Japanese introduced Japanese horseradish, called shankui in Chinese, to Alishan to satisfy their wasabi cravings.

Down at the quiet bottom of the village, beside the small police station, is the Fenqihu Historical Exhibition Room (free entry), housed in a beautifully renovated Japanese-era police dormitory. Inside, enjoy the quality Fenqihu-theme display and video, which have good English, and as well enjoy the sunny, breezy café, which has indoor/outdoor seating, Alishan teas and coffees, and the owner-operator’s delicious self-created cold tea/honey/Japanese sake drink. Numerous unique gift items are sold here, notably the owner’s also-delectable orange jam and cane sugar handmade by Tsou tribe members.

Be sure to leave time to traverse the easy trails that encircle the village, which have good English signage. Highlights include tall stands of cedar, viewing platforms, and the ruins of the area’s Japanese Shinto shrine and an old kiln.

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FEATURE

Day 3 Alishan National Forest Recreation Area The drive to the forest recreation area from Shizhuo takes about an hour. Along the way, you are presented with ever more impressive peak/cliff/valley vistas and ever more impressive road-engineering feats. Arrival at the forest recreation area brings you into a busy complex of eateries and retailers primarily selling Alishan-theme goods. There is also a visitor center. From the main area, which is at about 2,200 meters above sea level, you launch into the latticework of pathways and eco-friendly raised boardwalks further on uphill and downhill. There are short forest-railway runs from Alishan Station, up behind the food & retail complex, to Zhaoping Station, the Sacred Tree, and, in the early morn, to Zhushan (“Celebration Mountain”) for the famous sunrises.

Among the many images of natural beauty that will become part of your album of life memories will be Zhaoping Park’s decorative cherry trees (planted throughout Alishan by the Japanese), the laid-to-rest Sacred Tree, estimated at over 3,000 years old and long revered by the Tsou, the Giant Tree Trails, featuring dozens of massive, ancient red cypress trees, the forest-surrounded Sisters Ponds, one prettified 1

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1. Sunrise at Zhushan 2. One of the Sisters Ponds 3 & 4 Alishan Forest Railway 5 & 6 Forest recreation area

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ALISHAN

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6 5 with two wooden “love pavilions” built on Formosan red cypress bases (said to be named after two lovely native sisters who long ago drowned themselves to avoid a forced marriage), and the fantasy-like Three-Generations Tree, which has one tree growing from the dead trunk of another, which originally grew from the dead trunk of a third, that one 1,500 years old.

On this three-day trip, taken in January, temperatures reached into the 20s (Celsius) in the day, but tickled zero in the forest recreation area at night – so be prepared!

Getting There, Getting Around Self-drive is your best option, for the national scenic area’s attractions are quite spread out. The next best option for the DIY traveler is the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle, an inexpensive hop-on/hop-off coach service.

There are two Alishan routes: one starts/finishes at Chiayi’s High Speed Rail station, the other at Chiayi Railway Station. Check out the official website (www.taiwantrip.com.tw ) for more details. For other bus options, visit the Alishan National Scenic Area website (www.ali-nsa.net ) and click on “Transportation,” then “Public Transportation.”

Alishan Forest Railway Taking the narrow-gauge Alishan Forest Railway all the way from the city of Chiayi, on the coastal plains, to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, high up in the central mountains, is a truly memorable train ride. Unfortunately the line was seriously damaged by typhoon-caused landslides in 2009, and repair work has been continuous since then. On January 27 the section from Chiayi to Fenqihu, which is at about the half-way point, was reopened. The section from Fenqihu up to the forest recreation area is still being repaired, and a date for reopening will be announced at a later date.

For ticket reservations on the Chiayi-Fenqihu section, call Chiayi City’s Beimen Station at (05) 276-8094 or (05) 276-2251.

English and Chinese Alishan National Forest Recreation Area 阿里山國家森林遊樂區 Alishan Forest Railway 阿里山森林鐵路 Alishan National Scenic Area 阿里山國家風景區 Alishan NSA Chukou Visitor Center 阿里山國家風景區 - 觸口遊客中心 Alishan Station 阿里山車站 Bazhang River 八掌溪 Chukou 觸口 Chukou Nature Center 觸口自然教育中心 DerMing 德銘餅店 Eryanping Trail 二延平步道 Fenqihu 奮起湖 Fenqihu Historical Exhibition Room 奮起湖文史陳列室 Fenqihu Old Street 奮起湖老街 Giant Tree Trails 巨木群棧道 Mt. Eryanping 二延平山 Niupuzi Leisure Park 牛埔仔草原 Sacred Tree 神木 shankui 山葵 Sheng Le Farm 生力農場 Shizhuo 石棹 Sisters Ponds 姊妹潭 sun cakes 太陽餅 Three-Generations Tree 三代木 TrainPei 天美珍餅舖 Tsou tribe 鄒族 Upper Shizhuo Trail 頂石棹步道 Wufeng Temple 吳鳳廟 Xiding 隙頂 Yokeoasu Market 優格哇獅市集 yunhai 雲海 Zhaoping Park 沼平公園 Zhaoping Station 沼平車站 Zhongpu Township 中埔鄉 Zhushan 祝山

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STAY/EAT

Sleeping and Eating

in the Clouds

Tips on Where to Stay and Where/What to Eat at Alishan Text: Rick Charette

Photos: Jen Guo-Chen

Your stay and eat options perfectly complement the fresh air and simple beauties of Alishan mountain living.

Stay

Overnighting in Alishan almost automatically means bracing morning views with your coffee or tea. Here are places that have passed the Travel in Taiwan test for pleasantness and comfort.

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Bright, airy Alishan House stands amidst the soaring, straight-spine trees and shady walking paths that define the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. The upscale hotel has two sections, each with its own distinctive character. The front, two-story wood-built section, which was built as a mountain getaway for imperial officials by the forest-loving Japanese in 1913, has the look and ambience of the old, rustic inns you find in wooded areas in the New England countryside. The chic, modernistic new section, opened in autumn 2012, rises above the old in the rear and along one side, like a mother gently protecting a child with one arm extended. Alishan House has all the facilities of a big-city hotel, plus much extra nature-sculpted beauty. Especially inviting are the rooftop decks and café amongst the trees. (Rooms start at NT$7,000.)

Changqingju (“Evergreen Home”) is a comfortable, bucolic homestay (i.e., a B&B without the second “B”) run by quiet, friendly tea farmer Xu Yong-hong. The traditional three-sided courtyard residence is his ancestral home, and he has given it an impressive renovation. It sits amidst tea plantations, with a trail leading uphill behind, just above Shizhuo village and Provincial Highway No. 18, both out of sight and earshot. Beyond, facing east, is a deep valley, a backdrop of high peaks, and serene sunrises. The rooms (for two people, four people, and families) are modern, bright, and airy, featuring much polished wood and etched-glass paneling. Each has a bathroom/shower – bring towels – and cable TV, but no phone. Simple breakfast foods can be ordered from the Shizhuo FamilyMart convenience store; order forms are supplied. (Rooms start at NT$3,000.)

Note that surrounding Changqingju are many other homestays. Check with the Tourism Bureau for details. Other suggested places to stay include the missionary-run Arnold Janssen Activity Center hostel (aj-centersvd.myweb.hinet. net ; Chinese) in lower Fenqihu, where the gentle, lovely Sister Ulrich from Switzerland will take care of you in the way my grandmother did when I was a child, and the small Fenqihu Hotel (www.fenchihu-hotel.com.tw ), a hotel with the simple facilities of an inn located on the main Fenqihu tourist foot-traffic alley, so quiet before mid-morning and after supper you hear the local roosters crowing.

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ALISHAN

Eat

From Alishan’s pristine environment grows fresh, delectable mountain produce, and from these, simple, hearty fare is created.

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The glass-walled Lijing Restaurant on the first floor at Alishan House has soothing views into the forest behind the hotel and into its waterfall-adorned central courtyard. The food is Chinese, with dishes built around local produce. My favorites are the deep-fried Alishan range chicken with mushroom, meatstuffed tomatoes, and beancurd with wasabi. The pure, mineralrich mountain waters here have given the local beancurd an island-wide reputation.

The Lijing Restaurant is also the venue for the hotel’s breakfast buffet. There is a wide range of both Western and Chinese breakfast standards. Among the tasty non-standard items are the selection of fresh European-style breads, lox, and meat stew – the last most welcome on a chilly Alishan winter morn.

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In Fenqihu, the open-front, hole-in-the-wall eatery Tianshui is always busy. The fare, filling and straightforward, is quintessentially local. The best dishes, in my view, are the pumpkin soup, fried tea-oil chicken, fried mountain boar, and fiddleheads. There is an English menu here.

Directly across the narrow alley from Tianshui you’ll see the “Fenqihu Dried Beancurd” stand. This supplies the closest thing to soul food you’ll find in Alishan, a snack I’ve never seen anywhere else. Large squares of local soy-braised smoked beancurd are sliced open to form pockets à la pita bread, and stuffed with a savory medley of spicy red pepper, spring onion, minced pork, and other goodies, which you can adjust to taste.

Delicious! Two of these make a meal.

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Fenqihu “railway lunchboxes” are pretty much a tourist must.

In days of old they were sold to passengers on passing trains from the station platform. Each has a bed of rice, a cut or two of meat, a soy-braised egg, and other goodies. A-Liang’s is generally considered to have the village’s best. With an NT$270 version, you get a souvenir tin lunchbox with attractive railway-theme art.

Alishan House ( 阿里山賓館 ) Add: 16, Xianglin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County ( 嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村 16 號 ) Tel: (05) 267-9811 Website: www.alishanhouse.com.tw

Tianshui ( 天水 ) Add: 159-2, Fenqihu, Zhonghe Village, Zhuqi Township, Chiayi County ( 嘉義縣竹崎鄉中和村奮起湖 159-2 號 ) Tel: (05) 256-2084

Changqingju ( 長青居 ) Add: 16, Zhonghe Village, Zhuqi Township, Shizhuo, Chiayi County ( 嘉義縣竹崎鄉中和村石棹 16 號 ) Tel: (05) 256-1603 / 0932-711-222

A-Liang's ( 阿良鐵支路便當 ) Add: 117, Fenqihu, Zhonghe Village, Zhuqi Township, Chiayi County ( 嘉義縣竹崎鄉中和村奮起湖 117 號 ) Tel: (05) 256-1809

English and Chinese Fenqihu Dried Beancurd 奮起湖豆干堡 Fenqihu Hotel 奮起湖大飯店 Lijing Restaurant 麗景廳 Shizhuo 石棹 Xu Yong-hong 許永鴻 1. Old wood-built sec tion of Alishan House 2. Alishan House old-sec tion guestroom 3. Changqingju homestay 4. Fenqihu dried b eancurd 5. Stir-fried fiddleheads at T ianshui restaurant 6. Beancurd with wasabi at Lijing Restaurant 7. Fenqihu railway lunchb oxes

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TOP TEN TOURIST TOURS

Lovely

Nanzhuang

Sweet Osmanthus L ane

Nanzhuang Old Post O f f ice

Nanzhuang Hundred Year Maple Tree

NANZHUANG

A Little Town in the Miaoli Countryside Text: Paul Naylor

Photos: Fred Cheng

It was a dark, cold, and rainy day, and we started our trip very early. I got on the train headed south and fell asleep. At some point on the journey from Taipei Railway Station to the town of Zhunan I woke up. All was bright and clear now, and I could even see the Taiwan Strait off in the distance.

K angji Suspension Bridge

At Nanzhuang Hand made Noodles

Nogi Stairs

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TOP TEN TOURIST TOURS

We had

entered Miaoli in northwest Taiwan, a county characterized by foothills and mountains, with rich rainfall and small rivers, giving it a perfect climate for the cultivation of many types of fruits and vegetables. Miaoli is also culturally significant, as a great number of Taiwan’s Hakka people live here, and it is also home to the small indigenous Saisiat tribe, as well as the Atayal.

The Hakka have been living in this area since the 18th century, and thinking of their long tradition of distinctive cuisine and handicrafts, I was looking forward to a grand adventure in terms of both cultural and culinary exploration.

We were heading to the town of Nanzhuang, known as one of the best places on the island to see (and taste) this cultural legacy.

At Zhunan we caught a local bus bound for Nanzhuang. Buses of the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle service’s Nanzhuang Route (www.taiwantrip. com.tw/Besttour/Info/?id=5 ) also start out from Zhunan, but we didn’t want to wait (the tourist shuttle buses leave once an hour on weekdays). As our bus moved deeper into Miaoli County the countryside came to life. The fields were full of sunflowers and pink garden cosmos, and bright-orange kumquats glistened on dark-green trees. The bus stopped at a morning vegetable market and a lively, colorful group of old men and women got on, talking excitedly in the melodious Hakka language.

Accompanying them was the smell of spring onions, fresh soil, and other evidence of intimate contact with Mother Earth. We were definitely out of the city.

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The old post office was built during the time of Japanese rule over Taiwan, around 1900, and still has many of its original features

After an

hour’s ride we arrived at Nanzhuang, where our first stop was the Nanzhuang Visitor Center. The center is well-stocked with information about the area, and the staff has plenty of ideas on where you might journey.

We then walked to close-by Yongchang Temple. Built in 1905, this temple is large and imposing, and features beautifully painted door gods and woodcarvings. The “Three Lords of the World” are worshipped at the temple – they control heaven, earth, and water, respectively.

Next door to the temple is the Nanzhuang Old Post Office. This was built during the time of Japanese rule over Taiwan, around 1900, and still has many of its original features. It is no longer operational, but there is a mailbox outside. These days it houses as an exhibition space and a souvenir shop.

Many of the region’s traditional specialty products are sold here, such as kumquat jam and lemongrass oil, as well as the shop’s own signature mosquito repellent!

It may seem strange that Nanzhuang Elementary School was recommended as a destination on our tour, but the school has a feature of special interest to travelers. Beside its playing field is a unique tree. Curved in the shape of a crescent moon and supported by wooden scaffolding, the Nanzhuang Hundred Year Maple Tree is believed to be a century old.

From the elementary school we descended the Nogi Stairs, the building of which was initiated in 1897 by

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General Nogi Maresuke, the third Japanese governor-general of Taiwan, when he inspected the town. We then came to a cobbled area marking one end of Nanzhuang Market. Here stands the well-known Lao Jin Long (“Old Golden Dragon”) restaurant, which has been satisfying customers with its traditional Hakka food for the past 50 years. However, we had come here for the gourmand’s paradise of snacks found in Sweet Osmanthus Lane.

Sweet Osmanthus Lane is so named because of an old noodle restaurant here named Guihua (“Osmanthus Flower”).

In an attempt to make the lane better known to outsiders and boost business, the locals started to call it Sweet Osmanthus Lane and restaurant owners began to add the fragrant osmanthus flower to various foods.

We were met with a cacophony of shouts in the narrow, cobbled streets, as stall-holders vied to sell us their wares.

As the day was getting colder, we ordered hot osmanthus and kumquat drinks first, and then went on to try some of the snack foods. On the food front, we first sampled some Hakka-style taro fritters, a simple treat made with taro and glutinous-rice paste, then tried some spicy chicken feet, and finished with pork and sausages

NANZHUANG prepared with Shaoxing wine, a classic Chinese rice wine. These served as splendid appetizers, for lunch-time had arrived and our tummies were growling, demanding satisfaction! We stepped into a small, traditional Hakka-style Sweet Osmanthus Lane restaurant and quickly found that two Hakka must-tries were on the menu, bamboo-shoot soup with meigan cai , a type of pickled Chinese mustard plant unique to the Hakka, and dried beancurd with spring onion and chili. We ordered both. The soup was perfect, especially considering the cold weather, and the dried beancurd had an interesting texture and smoky taste, well complemented by the chili.

We first sampled some crunchy osmanthus egg rolls, then some taro cakes, and finally glutinous-rice balls, with wax apple, banana, and osmanthus honey added Osmanthus flowers are also used by local vendors in dessert items and we were keen to try some of those next. We first sampled some crunchy osmanthus egg rolls, then some taro cakes, and finally a traditional dessert, glutinous-rice balls, with wax apple, banana, and osmanthus honey added. These come either with ice or warming ginger soup. As it was a cold day, I was looking forward to the ginger soup. However, as we would have had to wait for it to be heated, we opted for the ice instead. There was also lavender and lemongrass ice cream available, but after eating up our generous servings of ice we decided to leave these for a warmer day and a return trip.

On the way

out of Sweet Osmanthus Lane, we came upon a strange sight. Here, a small stream emerges from under a rock, flows along a short stone trough, and disappears underground once again. This is the Shuibiantou Laundry Trough. In days of old, locals would wash

their clothes in the clean spring water; and judging by the traces of washing powder on the stones and the clothes hanging in the sun, at least a few still do.

fascinating glimpse into the intriguing, timeless cultures of the Hakka and of the area’s indigenous people.

A short while later we were standing on Kangji Suspension Bridge, a structure of brick-built towers and impressive architectural engineering that spans the stony Penglai River, enjoying the excellent views of Nanzhuang.

We spotted a cat prowling around the courtyard of one of Nanzhuang’s traditional three-sided courtyard houses, and savored the quiet, which contrasted dramatically with the hustle and bustle of Sweet Osmanthus Lane.

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Walking back towards the town center, down Zhongzheng Road, we did a little browsing in the many traditional craft shops. Nanzhuang, like a number of other places in Miaoli County, is known for quality woodwork, and the shops here sell beautifully crafted items such as images of the Laughing Buddha and, strangely, laughing pigs. There are also tailors and fabric shops where traditional Hakka floral-pattern fabrics are made into clothes, cushions, sheets, and all manner of other things.

The light was now fading, signaling it was time for dinner. Nanzhuang Handmade Noodles, a 50-year-old noodle shop on Sweet Osmanthus Lane, was the place to go. The walls are covered in notes written by visiting tourists, many in English, a testament to the restaurant’s popularity; I added my own, in rather shaky Chinese characters. The restaurant serves tasty hand-made bantiao (thick rice noodles), a staple of Hakka cuisine, with pork and red onion.

Our stomachs full, our legs tired, we bid goodbye to Nanzhuang, and then to Miaoli County. Nanzhuang is a great destination for a one-day trip from Taipei; but if you have the time, spend more than just a single day in Miaoli County. Our trip presented me with splendid scenery and gave me a

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Sweet Osmanthus L ane Nanzhuang Old Post O f fice Nanzhuang Elementar y School K angji Susp ension Bridge Sampling an osmanthus egg roll

English and Chinese bantiao 粄條 guihua 桂花 Kang ji Suspension Bridge 康濟吊橋 Lao Jin Long 老金龍 meigan cai 梅乾菜 Nanzhuang 南庄 Nanzhuang Elementary School 南庄小學 Nanzhuang Hand-made Noodles 南庄手工麵 Nanzhuang Hundred Year Maple Tree 南庄百年楓樹 Nanzhuang Market 南庄市場 Nanzhuang Old Post Office 百年南庄郵便局 Nogi Stairs 乃木崎石階 Penglai River 蓬萊溪 Saisiat tribe 賽夏族 Shaoxing wine 紹興酒 Shuibiantou Laundry Trough 水卞頭洗衫坑 Sweet Osmanthus Lane 桂花巷 Three Lords of the World 三官大帝 Yongchang Temple 永昌宮 Zhongzheng Road 中正路 Zhunan 竹南

Nanzhuang Visitor Center ( 南庄遊客中心 ) Add: 43, Datong Rd., Borough 4, Dong Village, Nanzhuang Township, Miaoli County ( 苗栗縣南庄鄉東村 4 鄰大同路 43 號 ) Tel: (037) 824-570

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INDIGENOUS ARTISTS

Paiwan Artist

Demedeman ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼

Keeping Indigenous Traditions Alive Text: Joe Henley

Photos: Duncan Longden

With her unique artwork, a young artist of the Paiwan tribe attempts to preserve her cultural heritage and introduce aspects of her tribe’s traditions to the world

In a small exhibition

room in the Yilan Creative Culture Center in Luodong Township in Yilan County, a woman sits at her work desk stitching colored beads into cloth, putting the finishing touches on a geometric design done in bright oranges and greens. At the same time, she keeps a storied tradition alive. Demedeman, a member of the Paiwan tribe, used to hate making the traditional dress and crafts of her people. When she was young her grandmother would make her sit and help with her handiwork, much to the child's dismay. It was only later on, after she had moved to Yilan in northeast Taiwan from her native Taitung County in the southeast, home to Mt. Dawu, the ancestral territory of the Paiwan, that

she began to feel a sense of nostalgia for her cultural origins. Wanting to express her feelings and preserve a disappearing craft and a way of life, she again took to the stitches taught to her by her grandmother, starting down a path that she today continues to explore.

Demedeman's grandmother is now nearly 90 years old, and a traditional

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dress she has made hangs in her granddaughter's exhibition room. It is adorned with beaded representations of the sharp-nosed viper, the protector spirit of the Paiwan, and is the work of a lifetime. As Demedeman explains, her grandmother, still spry even at her advanced age, is always looking to add something to the dress, just as the artist herself is always looking to refine her

DEMEDEMAN

Welcoming and endlessly accommodating, Demedeman will tell you of the drink the Paiwan use to welcome guests, their version of the potent millet wine that is such an intrinsic element in traditional Taiwan indigenous culture, made with glutinous rice rather than millet. She might even serve you some. Then she may well go on to explain how in Paiwan society men and women are considered equal, and how members of either sex can become leader of the tribe – a fact she is well aware of as the daughter of a Paiwan chief. The sun on her black-cloth shawl shows that she is descended from tribal leadership. After this she may point to the various other shawls hanging on the walls of her shop, each featuring a pattern unique to one of Taiwan's 14 officially recognized tribes.

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Wanting to express her feelings and preserve a disappearing craft and a way of life, she again took to the stitches taught to her by her grandmother ▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼▼

craft and explore her own personal style.

She is well-versed in the legends and creation stories of her tribe. She will sit and tell visitors of how the Paiwan believe they were hatched from eggs stored in a ceramic pot, protected by the viper, and of the spiritual importance of glazed beads and the ceremonial knives they carry in hardwood sheaths that are painted red and have images of their ancestors carved into them.

Though Demedeman is

cogent of the ways of the past, she is also a modern woman, and this side of her personality shines through in her work.

She came to Yilan five years ago and a year ago began designing accessories and clothing. Since then she has developed a unique creative style combining old and new. A Demedeman necklace, for example, might have eagle feathers hanging from it, symbol of a Paiwan warrior. In another time, the number of feathers hanging from a warrior's necklace represented the level of his bravery in past battles. On Demedeman’s creations, however, a string of metal nuts might be found next to the feathers, which have no cultural relevance at all and, according to the creator, simply remind her of the seeds of a millet stalk.

Demedeman has a line of shawls and necklaces resembling baby bibs, the latter known as “jube” in the Paiwan language, complete with geometric patterns inspired by the artwork of Taiwan's various tribes. While working on a pair of earrings, a new shirt design, or any other new creation, she may well listen to some rock music, a lingering passion from her youth. The theme throughout is juxtaposition, and the goal is to give her culture a broad appeal to those who might not be familiar with Taiwan's indigenous customs or history, be they Taiwanese or people from abroad, using a modern sense of fashion to introduce selected aspects of Paiwan tradition to the world at large.

Demedeman, now in her early thirties, is married to a man from the Atayal tribe, and has a daughter. At one time, marriage outside the Paiwan tribe was not common, but customs have changed to suit modern times.

However, she and her husband note that although some of their traditions have merely changed, others are in danger of disappearing altogether. The Atayal people, for example, were once known for their facial tattoos, but today these can almost exclusively be seen on the faces of a dwindling number of elders. When they go, the tradition will likely die with them.

Similarly, in the past Paiwan chiefs and shamans had intricately designed tattoos done on the back of their hands, with

3 1 2 1. Ar tist Demedeman 2. Neck lace with metal nuts 3. Traditional neck lace

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INDIGENOUS ARTISTS

an eye symbolizing the fact that their revered ancestors were always watching over them, but this custom is no longer followed. Demedeman does what she can to make sure that even if these aspects of traditional tribal life disappear, they will not be forgotten, recreating these designs on clothing and postcards so that people might remember.

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1. Bird-feather neck laces 2. Traditional neck laces 3. Bracelet and neck lace

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She is exploring new ways to broaden her creativity, all while remaining loyal to the theme of introducing elements of Paiwan culture

parts of Taiwan, selling her wares in craft markets in Taipei and online. She is also exploring new ways to broaden her creativity, all while remaining loyal to the theme of introducing elements of Paiwan culture that could be in danger of fading away to as many people as possible. At the moment she is learning

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Another

example of the artistic inspiraton Demedeman has received from her grandmother is an enlarged cardboard cut-out of the elderly woman and the artist as a child that sits in her exhibition room, facing the desk where she works on her newest creations.

She sees this as a concrete way to both show and tell her child, as well as the next generation of Paiwan, where they come from and who they are. The Paiwan people, she says, like to sit and listen to the stories of their elders and learn about how things were in the past. She is encouraged, noting that the younger Paiwan are starting to realize the importance of keeping their culture alive and taking action, not waiting around for others to do it for them and losing their dependence on outside assistance.

As for the future, Demedeman dreams of becoming a full-time artist.

The biggest challenge, she says, will be in channeling sources of inspiration on a daily basis. She would like to stage a national touring exhibition of her works, and has already branched out to other

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already shown enthusiasm in and talent for sewing beads, and who loves to draw.

Perhaps one day she will also take up her mother's work, make steady additions to a traditional dress she has spent a lifetime working on, and ensure that the knowledge and artistic traditions of the Paiwan will never be forgotten.

If you would like to check out Demedeman's work online, or pick up some of her clothing or accessories, log on to her web store at www.pinkoi. com/store/demedeman (Chinese). You can also follow her on Facebook (www. facebook.com/Demedeman ).

the art of temporary henna tattoos, which she intends to paint on people's hands in the same way that Paiwan chiefs used to mark their skin. She is also beginning to pass on what she knows to her three-year-old daughter, who has

English and Chinese Atayal tribe 泰雅族 Dawu Mountain 大武山 Demedeman 日姆日蔓 Luodong Township 羅東鎮 Paiwan tribe 排灣族 Yilan Creative and Cultural Center 宜蘭縣文化創意中心

HIKING

Shuiyang Forest Hiking to a Mystery Lake Created by an Earthquake Text and Photos: Stuart Dawson

Ear t hquake L ake at Shuiyang Forest

A lake was

formed in the Shuiyang Forest after the massive 921 Earthquake that struck central Taiwan on September 21, 1999. The quake measured 7.3 on the Richter scale, and caused a great deal of damage. The forest is situated in a valley located north of the Alishan National Scenic Area. The earthquake caused a large landslide that blocked the original path of a river in the valley, causing the valley to flood and creating the lake.

that starts at roadside and cuts straight up the side of the mountain, but it’s so steep that it’s better to stay on the road. After about 500m you’ll come across another trail that starts at roadside, this one tagged. This leads up Mt. Luqu (2,288m), and is well worth doing if you’ve got enough time. The trail is steep, and passes by a number of felled camphor and cedar trees. The smell of these trees fills the air as you approach the peak.

The hike to the Shuiyang Forest and the lake (about 10km one way) begins at SunLinkSea (www.goto307.com.tw ), a 40-hectare eco-park situated 1,600m above sea level in Nantou County. After arriving at the park early one morning, we caught a shuttle bus to the trailhead proper, which is located around 4km inside the park.

We decided to climb up the mountain.

When we came to the peak, the forest opened up and we were treated to an amazing view. It was late winter, and we could see the snow-capped peaks of the Yushan Mountain Range to the east, plus half a dozen eagles soaring above the valley in front of us.

The hike begins on the old, abandoned Shanlinxi Forestry Road. There’s a trail

From this point, the trail headed down steeply and turned sharply. The change

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of direction was such that we began to worry we’d missed a turn somewhere, but as we continued hiking down, the forestry road that we’d left a couple of hours ago reappeared, and we knew we were on the right track.

After the

steep climb up and down Mt. Luqu, we were grateful to walk through this beautiful section of forest on a flat and gentle path. All around us was the evidence of logging in the past, with the stumps of fallen giants littering the sides of the trail.

After a few kilometers of this type of scenery, the trail drops steeply down to the lake. This part of the hike is the trickiest.

There are a number of fixed-rope sections, and steep drop-offs on one side. It’s very important that you take your time and watch your footing.

SHUIYANG FOREST

There is little wind, meaning that the flat surface of the water creates perfect mirror-like reflections of the surrounding dead trees

Once at the lake, we looked for a spot to set up camp. There’s plenty of flat ground, but it’s a good idea to look for somewhere higher up. The lake can flood during heavy rain, and we didn’t want to wake up in the water!

We got the tents set up and then set off to explore. There’s a small path that follows the shore of the lake, leading to the point where the lake empties out and the waters once again take the form of a river. As we walked around the dark clouds seemed to come down low, settling in amongst the ghosts of the many dead lakeside trees, making for a very eerie scene.

Early the next morning we awoke to find that the gloomy cloud cover had completely dispersed. The lake is set deep in the valley, with steep mountains all around, so there is little wind, meaning

that the flat surface of the water creates perfect mirror-like reflections of the surrounding dead trees. We could have spent hours watching the endlessly changing lights on the water, but knowing we had a long hike back out, we reluctantly packed up and started our return trip.

Getting There There are buses from Taichung Gancheng Bus Station to SunLinkSea. SunLinkSea shuttle buses will bring you to the trailhead.

English and Chinese Alishan National Scenic Area 阿里山國家風景區 Taichung Gancheng Bus Station 台中干城站 Mt. Luqu 鹿屈山 Shanlinxi Forestry Road 杉林溪林道 Shuiyang Forest 水漾森林 SunLinkSea 杉林溪 Yushan Mountain Range 玉山山脈

Water re lease of t he lake

Safety Taiwan’s mountain terrain can be quite rugged.

It’s important to bring the correct equipment.

It is also highly recommended that anyone wishing to hike to Shuiyang Lake join a group on a guided hike.

Camping at t he lakeside

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OLD STYLE/NEW IDEAS Text: Owain Mckimm

Photos: Maggie Song

It’s difficult to articulate just how important bamboo is in Chinese culture. One could perhaps compare it to the Japanese fondness for paper, or the Korean obsession with kimchi, but neither comparison would express just how thoroughly bamboo has permeated Chinese daily life for several thousands of years. You cannot build a house out of kimchi, nor can you eat paper. Bamboo, however, is both a foodstuff and was once used liberally in both construction and interior design. But there is more – much more – to it than that.

At one time,

bamboo was used to make items as varied as raincoats, children’s toys, back scratchers, and pillows. As recently as the turn of the 20th century, people would sit on bamboo chairs at bamboo tables, eating bamboo shoots from bamboo bowls using bamboo chopsticks, perhaps with a bamboo hat on their heads and bamboo sandals on their feet.

Even before the Han Chinese began immigrating in large numbers to Taiwan in the 17th century, the island’s indigenous peoples had themselves been using bamboo for multifarious purposes – making fish traps, armor, musical instruments … the list goes on. And though not as ubiquitous as it once was, bamboo pulp is used to this day to make the ghost money burned to appease gods and ancestral spirits. The divination blocks and lots used when beseeching blessings or counsel from the gods are also bamboo-made.

And if you’re still unconvinced as to bamboo’s importance in Chinese culture, one last fact should do the trick: Bamboo is an essential element

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1

BAMBOO in the Chinese system of writing, and not just because it’s used to make calligraphy brushes. To clarify, Chinese characters are, generally speaking, made up of two parts: a radical and a phonetic element. The radical is the semantic element of the character – it expresses, if you will, the essence of the thing that’s being represented. “To cook” ( 烹 ) for example, is written with the “fire” radical ( 灬 ); “ant” ( 螞蟻 ), with the “insect” radical ( 虫 ). The characters for “pen” ( 筆 ), “basket” ( 籃 ), “abacus” ( 算盤 ), and “box” ( 箱 ), along with hundreds of others, are formed using the “bamboo” radical ( ⺮ ). This puts bamboo, which belongs to the grass family, on a par with elements such as wood ( 木 ), stone ( 石 ), and metal ( 金 ) in terms of usage as radicals in other characters.

However,

ost) m l An (A terial Ma e t e l s in e o s v i b O Surv imes ern T d o M

although bamboo is still present in some aspects of Taiwanese life, times have changed. Taiwan once had a flourishing bamboo economy, with all kinds of different species grown – from the 50-meter-tall giant bamboo to the miniscule dwarf white-striped bamboo, a mere ten centimeters in height.

Zhushan (literally “Bamboo Mountain”), a town in southwest Nantou County, was once at the center of this industry, but its hillsides, then covered in bamboo groves, are now covered instead in more lucrative plantations of tea bushes and betel-nut trees. The replacement of traditional materials with plastics and synthetic composites has largely killed the bamboo market in Taiwan.

Bamboo, for all intents and purposes, is today an almost obsolete material – a callback to a bygone age, like pewter, ebonite, or ivory.

There is at least one man in Zhushan, however, who is standing in bamboo’s corner.

He has taken this all-purpose material, once known as “the poor man’s wood,” and is making it into something chic, modern, and even artistic.

Liu Wen-huang, founder of Bamboola Taiwan, designs bamboo items for almost every facet of modern life; perhaps more importantly, he does so for the modern-day consumer who values style as much as substance.

After arriving at Liu’s small factory in Zhushan, we are taken upstairs to the exhibition hall, where we are seated on bamboo chairs around

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a bamboo table and served tea brought in on a bamboo tea tray. It’s immediately apparent why Liu’s products are suited to the modern market: the furniture, the shelves, the wall paneling – none of it looks like bamboo.

When one thinks of bamboo furniture, for example, one thinks of hollow segments of bamboo, perhaps lashed together at right angles with twine, to make items that are a little shaky, a little rudimentary. Despite bamboo’s reputation as being very strong, notably in its use as a scaffolding material, products made from bamboo have always, to me at least, seemed somehow all too rickety, all too likely to splinter under pressure. But Liu’s wares have none of this frailty about them. This is because rather than cobbling together segments of bamboo stalks to make his large repertoire of canes, vases, bookshelves, tea sets, chopsticks, kitchen-knife sheaths, spectacle frames, and so on, Liu instead has bamboo wood fused into planks, as one might do with engineered wood such as MDF or plywood.

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1. Bamb oo cover for smar tphone 2. Tr ying to op en a puz zle box 3. Bamb oo b ox designed by Bamb oola

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OLD STYLE - NEW IDEAS

Processing the bamboo involves first stripping it – he uses four-to-five- yearold moso bamboo – of its pith, which leaves about half a centimeter of usable wood. The bamboo is then cut into strips, which are glued together under high pressure into planks or panels.

Back in Liu’s factory, these planks are cut into shape, sanded, and treated with several coats of lacquer before undergoing carbonization – a steaming process which effectively caramelizes the sugars in the bamboo, giving it a deeper, richer color.

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Liu brings

or pressure switch. Due to the small scale of Liu’s operation, only about 300 of each one is ever made.

a selection of bamboo boxes over to the table. Their smooth, seamless look is striking. It’s almost as if each has been carved from one solid block of wood. Liu explains that this is because no nails or screws are used in the making of his products. Instead, he makes almost exclusive use of the mortise and tenon joint – an ancient joining technique in which a protruding section on one piece of wood is inserted into a cavity in another.

Liu has achieved a masterly balance of practicality, craftsmanship, and novelty in his creations, which is perhaps what makes his work so suitable for the 21st century. He shows us a range of covers for iPhones and USB sticks, and then a series of eggshaped salt and pepper shakers.

Each is beautifully grained, and has a clean, lacquered finish with Liu’s name engraved on the back along with the date of completion. They all look expensive, well crafted, unique – exclusive items that do not look at all out of place in the home or hands of a fashionable urbanite. And that, it seems, is Liu’s secret. He has made bamboo fashionable.

“Try to open it,” he says, pointing to the box I’m examining. I pull at the lid, but it doesn’t budge. I run my fingers over the box trying to find a hinge or a latch of some kind, but there are none.

It seems to be impenetrable. I hand it to Liu, confused. He takes it in his hand, tilts it forwards 45 degrees, and slides off the lid. We now see that set in the rim is an irregular wheel. When the box is f lat, the hump of the wheel blocks the lid from opening. But tilted at a 45-degree angle, the wheel tilts to reveal a f lat edge, allowing the lid to slip over the top.

Of course, the boxes on the table are no ordinary containers. They are examples of Lin’s signature product: puzzle boxes. Liu has designed about 54 of these to date, and plans to finish with a set numbering 100 in the next few years. Each box is unique, opening only on the discovery of a secret panel

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English and Chinese Liu Wen-huang 劉文煌 Zhushan 竹山

2 1. Producing bamb oo b oxes 2. Bamb oo stand for reading Buddhist scripts

Bamboola Taiwan ( 大禾竹藝工坊 ) Add: 7, Lane 362, Yanxiang Borough, Yanxiang Rd., Zhushan Township, Nantou County ( 南投縣竹山鎮延祥里延祥路 362 巷 7 號 ) Tel: (049) 263-5206 Website: www.bamboola.com.tw

Bamboola has branches in several locations around Taiwan, including Taipei, Yilan, Taichung, Kaohsiung, and Tainan. See the website for details on products and store locations.

FUN WITH CHINESE

下車 (xia che )

Two easy

上車 (shang che )

Illustration: Fred Cheng

to learn and to remember Chinese characters that are useful to know are 上 (shang ), meaning “up” or “above/on top,” and 下 (xia ), meaning “down” or “below/under.” Two commonly encountered combinations of these two characters are with another simple character, 車 (che ), which means “vehicle,” in 上車 (shang che ) and 下車 (xia che ). The first means to board a vehicle (car, bus, etc.) and the second to get out of or off a vehicle. Knowing these combinations is especially helpful when boarding a bus in Taiwan, because here you sometimes pay when boarding a bus and sometimes when alighting. Above the driver is usually a sign with the characters 上下 車收票 (shang xia che shou piao ), with either the 上 or the 下 highlighted to indicate when to pay.

The characters 收票 literally mean “collect ticket.”

Other common combinations with the characters 上 /下 are: 上來 /下來 (shang lai /xia lai ; come up/come down), 上去 /下去 (shang qu /xia qu ; go up/go down), 上山 /下山 (shang shan / xia shan ; go up a mountain/go down a mountain), and 上午 /下午 (shang wu /xia wu ; morning/ afternoon; lit. above/below noon). The combination 下雨 (xia yu ) means “to rain/it is raining,” but there is of course no combination 上雨 . The name of the city of Shanghai in mainland China is written 上海 , lit. “on the sea,” indicating the city’s proximity to the coast.

shang

xia

An interesting two-character combination in which one contains 上 and the other 下 is 忐忑 (tan te ). Each has been combined with the character 心 (xin ), meaning “heart.” Any idea what the combination could mean? A situation where “something is on your heart and under your heart”?

The answer: Indecisive, apprehensive, perturbed.

Miao!

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FOOD JOURNEY

Yilan’s Kumquats

Visiting an Organic Orchard in Taiwan’s Northeast Text: Joe Henley

Photos: Duncan Longden

Kumquats are like miniature oranges, but are sourer, and you can eat the peel.

Rich in vitamin C and organically grown, the fruit produced in Yilan is beloved by health-conscious consumers.

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KUMQUAT Yilan is kumquat central in this country, with over 90 percent of the approximately 300 hectares of kumquat orchards in Taiwan found within its borders

If you're looking for beautiful scenery and quiet relaxation, but don't want to stray too far from the big city (Taipei), Yilan County in Taiwan’s northeast is a great choice as a getaway destination. Less than an hour away from downtown Taipei via Freeway No. 5, Yilan has a wall of mountains as backdrop, coastal cliffs and beaches where it faces the Pacific Ocean, and in the town of Jiaoxi enough hot-spring hotels to take the tension out of even the most stressed traveler. But Yilan is also the source of a quiet revolution taking place in the local food industry, with one farm in particular leading the way. The Lanyang Kumquat Production Cooperative operates orchards not far from Jiaoxi, in the hills overlooking the Yilan Plain, produces organic fruit for the growing number of health-conscious consumers in Taiwan, and is steadily paving the way for the wider adoption of sustainable growing techniques.

The orchard is run by Lin Ting-cai.

Like many who work the land for a living, he is quiet but thoughtful. Now in his early sixties, he has the appearance of a

much younger man, which he attributes to a lifetime spent working outdoors in the comparatively clean air of Taiwan's less populated eastern half. Yilan is kumquat central in this country, with over 90 percent of the approximately 300 hectares of kumquat orchards in Taiwan found within its borders. Mr. Lin works 26 of those hectares in Yilan, and has been since the age of 18, equipped with the deep knowledge passed down to him by his father. Unsurprisingly, the man is a fountain of information on all things related to that which he nourishes from seeding to harvest, and he is only too happy to share what he has learned over the years.

Let's start off with a little kumquat history. The people of Taiwan were introduced to the flavorful fruit, which has a tangy combination of sour and sweet, in the 19th century when it was imported from mainland China. A Chinese government official had the idea of canning and preserving the fruit to prevent spoilage. Later, during the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945), a Chinesemedicine doctor came up with a better method of preservation, and started a company in Yilan, Lao Zeng Shou, which still exists today. However, the industry didn't really take off until the 1980s when the coastal highway was widened and large numbers of tourists started coming in

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2.

3.

4.

Kumquat f armer Lin T ing- cai O val-shap ed kumquats Careful handling of the fruit Pick ing the fruit

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FOOD JOURNEY from Taipei. These visitors started snapping up cans of kumquats to bring back to their relatives and friends, distributing the product nationwide. As of the mid-1980s most farmers in the region were growing oranges; but with the new kumquat craze, and the fact that this fruit was easier to cultivate, they began to switch. The focus was on production for the processedfood market, the emphasis on high yields regardless of how they were achieved.

Priorities changed around 2007, however, and local producers began to promote kumquats as a fresh, healthy snack. The farming methods of old had to be done away with, and a new organic approach had to become the industry norm.

That's where

Mr. Lin came in. He has spearheaded the organic movement in his home county. It's better for consumers, better for the land, and better for farmers as well, he says.

Whereas one kilogram of conventionally cultivated kumquats sold to a processing plant can fetch a price of just NT$12 in the current market, the same amount of organically cultivated fruit can be sold for over NT$100 to an organic-food store. With the farming population of Yilan aging, Li Nian-yi, an advisor to other farmers in the area, hopes to see the day when every farmer can average a monthly income of around NT$30,000, which will attract younger people to the business. If this can be achieved, Mr. Lin says he may one day ask his own children to enter the family business.

Until that day arrives, he will continue to busy himself with every aspect of the day-to-day operations of his farm. He rises early each morning, around 6 a.m., and during the long November~March harvest season you may find him out picking fruit with the workers he employs. With the shift to selling to organic food stores, appearance and presentation have become important, and special care must be taken to avoid damaging the kumquats as they are plucked from their trees. Before, when the fruit could simply be yanked off, a

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single worker could harvest about 400 kilograms in a day. Now the process is done more carefully, with each individual fruit cut off the branch with a pair of scissors, and the yield per worker is down to about a quarter of the amount that was brought in when the fruit was used in processed foods.

But it's all about the big picture.

Today, there are no pesticides used that harm the landscape, no chemicals that can seep into the groundwater and damage the surrounding area, and no heavy, gas-guzzling machinery. What's good for the land is good for the farmer and the consumer, and as the only organic grower in the region that has thus far been government-certified, Mr. Lin is working every day to prove that his way is the right way.

In the later hours each day, you might find Mr. Lin packing kumquats into boxes in the storage facility behind his family home. There are many varieties, and the Lanyang Kumquat Production Cooperative specializes in two named after their shapes, round and oval. In addition to being sold as food, they are also used in cosmetics, a relatively new development made possible only by the shift to organic growing techniques. They are also used in Chinese medicine, lauded for their ability to improve circulation and clear up respiratory ailments. This may have something to do with their high vitamin C content – more than any other citrus fruit. Maybe the old saying should be revised to, “A kumquat a day keeps the doctor away.” The small oval variety is also the only citrus fruit that can be enjoyed whole, peel and all, with the peel providing a sweet contrast to the sourness of the innards.

Being a farmer is no means an easy occupation, requiring much hard work. But there are ways to bring the industry forward, and people like Mr. Lin are at the forefront of that movement. Ways must be found to

make agricultural sustainable, both from an economic and from an environmental standpoint. Farmers are the people who feed the world, and are deserving of the utmost respect. So if you find yourself in Yilan during your travels through Taiwan, pick up a box of fresh, organic kumquats, and support the fine people working in the orchards day after day, rain or shine. If you head up into the hills, you may even see Mr. Lin out in one of his orchards, bringing in the harvest. This is his favorite part of the job, when he can see the results of his months of labor, and even at his advancing age his passion for the work hasn't dwindled one bit. He intends to keep at it as long as he possibly can.

The small oval variety is the only citrus fruit that can be enjoyed whole, peel and all, with the peel providing a sweet contrast to the sourness of the innards

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2 1. Sweet p eel, sour juice 2. Kumquat cakes English and Chinese Jiaoxi 礁溪 Lanyang Kumquat Production Cooperative 蘭陽金柑生產合作社 Lao Zeng Shou 老增壽 Li Nian-yi 李念宜 Lin Ting-cai 林庭財 Yilan Plain 宜蘭平原

BACKPACK BUS TRIP

Riding a Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Bus through Nantou County Text: Owain Mckimm

Photos: Maggie Song

Sun Moon Lake. Nearly eight square kilometers of mist-dappled water surrounded by thickly forested mountains. Lavish with cherry blossoms in early spring, speckled with sunlight in summer, ethereal in autumn, brooding in winter, giving visitors jaw-dropping panoramas year round. A Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus will take you from central Taichung to the lake in under two hours and lets you see some of the area’s until-now more inaccessible treasures along the way.

Taichung Gancheng Bus Station

THSR Wuri Taichung Station Railway Station

Taiwan Tourist Shuttle bus

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Newera Art Resort Spa

Jinan University

Community Yuchi TaoMi EcoVillage

New Era Ar t Resor t and Spa

Sun Moon Lake Shuishe

SUN MOON LAKE

Pap er Dome

The Paper Dome is a memorial to Taiwan's 921 Earthquake and the Great Hanshin Earthquake that ravaged the city of Kobe in Japan

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BACKPACK BUS TRIP

Antique A ssam Tea Farm

As we wander around the village’s allotments, plant nurseries, streams, and lotus ponds, Pen fills us in on the area’s fecund wildlife. There are about 370 butterfly species in Taiwan; roughly 220 can be found in Puli Township, and up to 180 can be seen in Taomi Village. According to Pen, a part of the village’s eco-transformation has been to plant flowers with nectar-rich blooms to attract butterflies to the area, as well as to cultivate host plants on which butterflies can lay their eggs. Frog-watching is also popular with visitors to Taomi, and many guesthouses offer after-dark frog-watching excursions, during which participants can see up to 23 of Taiwan’s 29 native species. Unfortunately, time is against us on this day, and we must make a dash for the next shuttle bus.

Taomi Eco -V illage

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Alas, the grey skies of the morning have now released a persistent and biting afternoon drizzle, and I could murder a cup of tea. As luck would have it, tea is not in short supply at our next destination, the Antique Assam Tea Farm in Yuchi Township.

Huang Guo-ci, who manages the farm’s 10 hectares of tea fields, greets us at the entrance to the factory and immediately sits us down on the veranda for a chat over a pot of hot black tea.

He pours us each a cup of the rich amber liquid, which he identifies as Taiwan Tea No. 18, one of several cultivars grown at the farm. The black tea grown in Yuchi was originally Assam tea (C. sinensis var. assamica ) imported from India by the Japanese during the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945). The warm, rainy climate of Nantou County was deemed perfect for black tea cultivation, and over the years the Yuchi Tea Research and Extension Station has tweaked the original Assam tea to create new cultivars. The most popular of these is the No. 18 – in fact a cross-breed of C. sinensis var. assamica and wild Taiwanese mountain tea (C. sinensis f. formosensis ) – which has a distinctive cinnamon scent underlain with a subtle hint of mint.

SUN MOON LAKE After we finish our tea, Huang takes us on a tour of the factory.

Upstairs, the tea leaves are laid out to dry for up to 18 hours, then poured through a hatch in the floor into rolling machines, where the juices are gently squeezed out and the leaves begin to ferment.

Following that is a stint in the perpetually moist fermenting room. The leaves are then dried and a team of workers painstakingly strips them from the twigs by hand. Eager to try some of the other varieties, I pick up a box of Taiwan Tea No. 8 on our way out – No. 8 has a stronger, more robust flavor than the other cultivars, but won’t be overpowering if you take your tea English-style, with milk, as I do.

Antique A ssam Tea Farm

It’s late afternoon when we finally arrive at Sun Moon Lake. We had originally planned to take a twilit cycle along the western, “moon”shaped side of the lake, but the drizzle now colors the idea of a tour de lac , once anticipated with pleasure, as a damp and uncomfortable ordeal. We instead board a bus and head to the small settlement of Ita Thao, where we plan to stay the night, and take in the lake from the wharf. A delicate mist floats above the water; low clouds entangle the surrounding mountains; the last boats of the day dock at the piers. The lake is still and silent.

A delicate mist floats above the water; low clouds entangle the surrounding mountains; the last boats of the day dock at the piers. The lake is still and silent

Sun Moon L ake

Travel in Taiwan

43

SPECIAL REPORT

When

CNN Go , The New York Times , and The Guardian speak, people listen. They are in the business of telling people “where to go” – travel-wise – and of late these three, among the most highly respected voices in global travel reporting, have been trumpeting Taiwan as one of the world’s hottest places to spend your travel dollars in 2014.

Travel in Taiwan is, of course, in agreement – but we’ll let them do all the talking here.

What is it

that CNN Go likes best about the island? In its report ‘10 things that Taiwan does better than anywhere else,’ among the 10 (in order of appearance) are the night markets, themed restaurants, Chinese artifacts, mock meat (great vegetarian food), and little dumplings.

Night markets – “Taiwan’s 300plus night markets await your midnight cravings … These open-air bazaars are particularly loved for street food, referred to locally as … ‘small eats.’ Perennial favorites are oyster omelets, stinky tofu and an assortment of snacks on a stick straight from the grill.”

Themed restaurants – “Taiwan is home to the world's first Barbie-themed restaurant, with Mattel-approved smotherings of pink plastic and frilly tutus. [Other] themed restaurants in Taiwan have included a café based on an Airbus A380, complete with trolly dollies serving food and drinks from a cart, as well as restaurants with jail, hospital and school-inspired themes.”

Chinese artifacts – “… the National Palace Museum in Taipei houses the largest collection of Chinese artifacts and artwork in the world.

The impressive permanent collection comprises more than 650,000 items.

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Travel in Taiwan

2014

Taiwan’s Year o Your Year for Ta

TAIWAN TOURISM

of the Horse, Taiwan Travel Text: Editorial Department

Photos: Vision Int’l

Chinese history is told through bronze statues, jade carvings, calligraphy, lacquerware and other historical pieces – many of which belonged to Chinese imperial families …”

For the full report , visit: http://www.nytimes.com/ interactive/2014/01/10/travel/2014places-to-go.html?hp&_r=2

Mock meat/vegetarian food – “One of the world's most vegetarian-friendly destinations, Taiwan offers 6,000 or so restaurants serving an impressive variety of delicious vegetarian fare to feed the 10% of the country that shuns meat … Taiwan is the best place to hit when you're craving meat but don't actually want to eat any … Taiwan's fake meat – usually made of soy protein or wheat gluten – can fool even hardcore carnivores.”

‘Holiday hotspots: where to go in 2014,’ The Guardian asks “Ever tried gua bao, the Taiwanese dish of pork belly in a steamed bun? … (It’s won) accolades from Young British Foodies and the British Street Food Awards (people's choice award).” You learn about a new Taiwan foodies tour, are advised to visit the southern city of Tainan, “the true capital of street food – and definitely not made for tourists,” and informed that “From oyster omelettes in Taipei's night markets to tea in a Maokong plantation, Taiwan is a fascinating place to eat and drink your way around.”

In

Little dumplings – “… Taiwan is slowly taking over the dumpling world, one broth-filled bite at a time. Din Tai Fung now serves its famed xiaolongbao For the full report , visit: http:// in destinations as far f lung as Australia, www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/ Thailand and the United States. CNN put jan/03/holiday-hotspots-where-to-goDin Tai Fung at number two on its list of in-2014 best franchises for travelers.”

Yes, the powers that be in the travel world have spoken – this is your year For the full report, visit: http:// for Taiwan travel. When shall we be edition.cnn.com/2014/01/15/travel/10expecting you? things-taiwan/index.html

In its

report ‘52 Places to Go in 2014,’ The New York Times highlights Taiwan’s “urban and outdoor pursuits in one (reasonably) compact package,” declaring that the “traveler who wants to do it all should consider Taiwan” because of “its easy-to-navigate public transport network that links a cosmopolitan capital with a bounty of natural and man-made wonders.” Taking special note of Taipei’s thriving art scene, 2016 World Design Capital designation, web of bike trails, and vibrant street-food scene, as well as Kenting National Park’s wetlands, white sands, and fishing villages, it notes “And it all becomes cheaper to get to later this year, with the launch of budget carriers from China Airlines and TransAsia Airways.”

Travel in Taiwan

45

SPLENDID FESTIVALS In recent years, the people of Taiwan have come to embrace the sport of cycling. Head for any of the riverside cycling paths in the Taipei area on the weekend, and you'll see people on bikes everywhere; couples out for a leisurely ride, families enjoying an outing, and senior citizens getting the most out of their golden years. Sure, Taiwan has a long way to go to catch up with the deeply ingrained cycling culture of many European nations, but the country is off to a solid start. It has even become a popular challenge to bike all around Taiwan's main island, a near 1,000-kilometer journey. If that sounds like too daunting a trip to undertake on your own, the Formosa 900 could be exactly what you're looking for.

The Formosa 900

is a bicycle adventure in which teams of participants circumnavigate Taiwan in nine days, taking both inland and coastal roads to complete the loop.

It's organized by the Cycling Lifestyle Foundation (www.cycling-lifestyle.org. tw ), homegrown bike manufacturer Giant Bicycles (www.giant-bicycles. com ), and the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (eng.taiwan.net.tw ). Everything from food and lodging to the stops along the way is coordinated down to the most minute detail for the riders, with a full support team following the groups from start to finish. The event takes place in early November each year; teams depart from different cities around the island, with some going all the way around and others doing shorter trips. People from

their early twenties to seniors embrace the challenge with equal vigor and enthusiasm. As for myself, let's just say I wasn't quite so prepared.

When the Formosa 900 assignment came down from Travel in Taiwan , I jumped at it without really thinking things through. Only after I had accepted did I remember the fact that I hadn't spent any significant amount of time on a bike in about a decade.

Sure, there might have been adequate time to train, a few weekends between my acceptance and the ride, to do a few practice runs around my adopted home of Taipei. But I thought it would be better to go into it as a complete amateur, utterly unprepared. That way, I reasoned, I could truly say by the end that “If I can do it, anyone can.�

The Form Around Taiwan on a Bicycle

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Travel in Taiwan

TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL

And so it was

with no small amount of trepidation that I set off for Taipei City Hall bright and early on the morning of November 9, the date of embarkation for myself and the team I had joined. Bikes, helmets, head buffs, water bottles, and a couple of jerseys were provided by the organizers, while we were responsible for supplying our own cycling shorts, gloves, shoes, and anything else we might need. Luckily, the people in charge had provided us with a handy checklist of necessary items beforehand.

The most useful piece of gear on the list, in my opinion? The MP3 player. But do yourself a favor and leave the mopey, introspective music at home. Harddriving motivational tunes are essential for the intimidating uphill stretches on

the mountain roads of the east side of the island, and the long expanses of flat highway on the west.

The second-most useful item on the list? The canister of muscle-pain relief spray, which proved to be a daily requirement for me.

The canister of muscle-pain relief spray proved to be a daily requirement for me

The first test

of the trip came in the form of the Xueshan Mountain Range’s northern reaches, standing between us and our first stop, the hot-spring town of Jiaoxi, in Yilan County on the east coast, 70-

some kilometers from Taipei City.

Distance-wise, this would actually be our shortest day, but the initial climb, a gradual ascent of nearly 1,000 meters, was murder on my long untested leg muscles. My progress slowed to a virtual crawl, to the point where it literally would have been faster for me to get off the bike and walk, but I made it up and over the highest point without succumbing to the near overwhelming urge to dismount for a breather.

The payoff, a euphoric glide down a switchback road with the sun shining down and the Pacific’s whitecap waves beating against beaches in the distance.

The next morning was not an easy one. Every muscle south of my belt line was in a mutinous uproar due to the previous day's unprecedented outburst

mosa 900 Text: Joe Henley

Photos: Cycling Lifestyle Foundation

Travel in Taiwan

47

SPLENDID FESTIVALS of exertion, and my neck and shoulders felt like they had been worked over with a baseball bat. Clearly the Formosa 900 was proving to be a cut above my usual workout routine. Still, I wasn't about to back out. The only option was to press on, and that we did, rising at 6 a.m. for breakfast, followed by a thorough and thoroughly painful stretch. We hit the road just after the hour of 7.

The destination for the day was the township of Ruisui in Hualien County, and as would be the norm for the rest of the trip, we had to cover over 100 kilometers of ground. Another daunting ascent – 800 meters in total – was on the menu. Thankfully, the day was broken up by our only train ride of the trip, a short but welcome journey by rail from Suao to Hualien City. The breathtaking coastal highway south of Suao, known as the Suhua Highway, is one of Taiwan’s most spectacular roads, but because of numerous tunnels, heavy traffic, and occasional rockfalls, it is not considered a very safe road for bicyclists and is therefore not part of the Formosa 900.

My ride that day ended in darkness, with my head down, my neck, back, and legs aching, and a feeling that I might not be able to continue. More than one experienced rider told me the next day that if you can survive the first three days of a long-term cycling trip, the days that follow will be smooth pedaling.

Fortunately for me, they were right.

At the end of the third day we were at Zhiben, in Taitung County, checked into yet another high-end international hotel.

With my body finally getting used to the daily grind, I awoke to a far greater level of comfort on the morning of the fourth day, with the longest and toughest climbs of the Formosa 900 laid out before me on the road between Zhiben and Checheng, in Pingtung County.

There were four separate climbs across the tail end of the Central Mountain Range, the last of which was a steep, continuous ascent of around 500

48

Travel in Taiwan

meters; but the conditioning of the past few days paid off, and the quiet solitude of the hills, the low-hanging clouds over the peaks, and the boundless views to the coastline tens of kilometers away were ample reward for the demanding physical effort required. Our team stopped at the highest point on the route to pose for a victory photo and bask in the postworkout afterglow before enjoying the roll down the other side, through isolated mountain towns, past undisturbed marshes and the imposing Mudan Reservoir, and on to the township of Checheng for a blissful night's rest.

focus is mostly on completion and getting from one stop to the next before nightfall each day. But over the course of the trip, you build friendships with your riding mates, and share an experience unlike any other. Is it difficult? Definitely, as is anything worth doing. Is it worth it?

Most certainly.

For more information, and to sign up for next year, check out http:// formosa900.giant.com.tw.

The next couple

of days took us through the southern port city of Kaohsiung, a key industrial hub, then up the west coast to the city of Chiayi. The rolling mountain roads were replaced by largely flat terrain and much urban development – less visually appealing than the eastern side of the island but interesting in its own way.

From Chiayi the kilometers melted away as we continued on to the cities of Taichung and then Hsinchu. During our two days in the area we found out why Hsinchu is known as Taiwan's “Windy City”; headwinds approaching 30 kilometers an hour blew relentlessly, but by that point we were a well-oiled cycling machine, and our pace barely slowed. On the ninth and final day, each and every one of the cyclists on our team that had set out on November 9 rolled up triumphantly at Taipei City Hall, our starting point. Mission accomplished.

Our team stopped at the highest point on the route to pose for a victory photo and bask in the post-workout afterglow The Formosa 900 is a challenge, no doubt. The first few days, if you're a novice cyclist, are trying both mentally and physically, and overall the journey is something of a grind. Though there is sightseeing to be done along the way, the

Sun Moon L ake Come! Bikeday

Dapu Bike Cosplay

TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL Taiwan Cycling Festival The Formosa 900 is part of the annual Taiwan Cycling Festival (http://taiwanbike.tw/event/2013/en/index. html ), which has three other main events, the Taiwan KOM Challenge, the Sun Moon Lake Come! Bikeday, and the Bike Fun Siraya – Dapu Bike Cosplay event.

Taiwan KOM Challenge While the Formosa 900 is a ride that can be completed by any regular bicycle rider with some stamina and a liking for long bike outings, the Taiwan KOM Challenge is a race for professional athletes and highly trained amateurs, notably experienced riders who like to climb steep mountain roads. “KOM” is short for “King of the Mountains,” and simply by completing the race riders earn the right to call themselves just that. The race starts close to the coast in Hualien at sea level and ends at Wuling, at 3,275m above sea level, the highest point of any highway in Taiwan. During the race riders will climb more than 3km in altitude over a stretch of just 105km.

Sun Moon Lake Come! Bikeday If the round-the-island Formosa 900 challenge strikes you as perhaps too tough, this bike-ride event might be more to your liking. Each year, in the early-morning hours on a set weekend day, around 3,000 bicylists, old and young, gather at the Xiangshan Visitor Center on the western shore of Sun Moon Lake in central Taiwan.

They hit the road together and circle the lake in a clockwise direction. The total length is about 30 kilometers, and many complete the loop in less than an hour. The route has flat sections on the western side of the lake, close to and sometimes actually above the waters of the lake, and a few climbs on the eastern side.

Bike Fun Siraya – Dapu Bike Cosplay The Dapu Bike Cosplay event is held in November in Chiayi County’s Dapu Township in southern Taiwan. This is not a bicycle race but a street parade where bicyclists are invited to dress up and ride in creative and colorful costumes. The participants with the most attractive and imaginative costumes are awarded with cash prizes.

Organized for the first time last year by the Siraya National Scenic Area administration, this is the first bikethemed cosplay event in Taiwan. If you want to take part in the event this year, visit www.siraya-nsa.gov.tw .

Apart from these three major events, the Taiwan Cycling Festival also features a number of other bicycle rides organized by various local governments. For more information, visit http://taiwanbike.tw/bike/ .

English and Chinese Bike Fun Siraya – Dapu Bike Cosplay 騎趣西拉雅 – 大埔瘋單車 Central Mountain Range 中央山脈 Checheng 車城 Cycling Lifestyle Foundation 自行車新文化基金會 Formosa 900 騎遇福爾摩沙 Giant Bicycles 捷安特 Jiaoxi 礁溪 Mudan Reservoir 牡丹水庫 Ruisui 瑞穗 Suao 蘇澳 Suhua Highway 蘇花公路 Sun Moon Lake Come! Bikeday 日月潭 Come! Bikeday Taiwan KOM Challenge 臺灣自行車登山王挑戰 Wenwu Temple 文武廟 Wuling 武嶺 Xiangshan Visitor Center 向山遊客中心 Xuanguang Temple 玄光寺 Xueshan Mountain Range 雪山山脈 Zhiben 知本

On the second floor there are private rooms where coffee, ice treats, and desserts are served.

ing to Taiwan, visiting For many tourists com ice a must. Eating mango Smoothie House is happy. ne ryo eve kes ma simply is a joy and

Mango ice is one of the most popular refreshing foods during the summer months in Taiwan. Try the mixed mango shaved ice, made with fresh mango, strawberry, and kiwi, a sublime combination of ice and superb fruit flavor! This is the best-selling item on the menu.

1F, 15 Yongkang St., Taipei City The ice treats of Smoothie House are made with fragrant aiwen mango cultivated in Taiwan. This type of mango has a firm texture and is very juicy. The fruit meat melts in your mouth and creates an amazing sweet and sour sensation. No one seems to be able to resist this unbelievable treat.

Groups are welcome. Looking for cooperating travel agencies

and representatives Contact: service@smoothie.com.tw

Tel: +886-2-2341-8555

2F, 15 Yongkang St., Da'an District, Taipei City Tel: +886-2-2395-8770 Longmen Shop: 52 Guo’ai St., Sanchong District, New Taipei City Tel: +886-2-2972-0758 Beitou Shop: 294 Zhonghe St., Beitou District, Taipei City Tel: +886-2-2894-5511

Smoothie House Chang'an Branch ~ Breakfast Shop Add: 55 Chang'an W. Rd., Taipei City Tel: +886-2-2552-3250

SPECIAL REPORT

One of Taiwan’s Sweetest Things

Traditional

cakes and pastries are characterized by flaky crusts, innards fluffy and outside coverings often a bit crispy and/or crumbly, with heavy use of items associated with farm living such as egg yolks, taro, adzuki beans, mung beans, and so on. The taro and beans will be made into a paste and lightly sweetened, most often with cane sugar or maltose, but the taste of the good earth is still there, and both customers and bakers place great emphasis on getting the ingredients from the field to your palate as quickly as possible and with as little adulteration as possible.

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Today’s consumers in Taiwan enjoy variety – younger ones, confectioners aver, demand it – and sellers endlessly roll out new treats, but you’ll find many of these are based on traditional varieties with some tailoring done to suit current tastes and lifestyles. The “new” consumer still looks for his/her cakes and pastries to be handmade, and whether officially “traditional” or “new,” these days all are almost invariably lighter, with less cholesterol, less fat, and less sugar used in their creation.

Many of the country’s most venerable cake and pastry shops started business providing the traditional sweet handmade things used as sacrificial offerings by devotees at nearby temples. While continuing to do so, the proprietors of the most successful names in today’s market have understood that they must expand their clientele base by offering newstyle variations of classic treats as well as allnew taste adventures. Following we visit the flagship outlets of three celebrated confectioners that have discovered the secret recipe of modern Taiwan cake-culture enterprise, each expanding into chains, each offering a long and proud history as a primary ingredient, and each very much still “all in the family.”

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5

3

N Jiu Zhen Nan

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6

N Lee Cake

N Yu Jan Shin

CAKE SHOPS

Text: Rick Charette

Photos: Maggie Song

The people of Taiwan are fascinated with eating, and revel in ingredients and tastes as close to the field as possible. Snacking is a passion, and every place, down to each little village and town, lays claim it seems to unique contributions to the culinary world – its own “famous foods.” Sweet cakes and pastries are favorite gourmand items, the “cakes” most often created in bite-sized (or multi-bite-sized) morsels rather than the family-sized creations of the West.

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15 12

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1. Xibing 喜餅 2 . Naiyou subing 奶油酥餅 3. Dajia “block s” 大甲積木 4. Rice cake 米香餅 5. Nougat candy 牛軋糖 6. Xiaogelei tar t 小葛蕾鬆塔

14

7. Taro cake 紫玉酥 8 . Mung-b ean cake 綠豆椪 9. Bubu cake 步步糕 10. Hesheng pineapple cake 和生鳳梨酥

11. Mung-b ean cake, “cold”

cake, and salt y cake

糕點 (綠豆糕, 涼糕, 鹹糕) 12 . Ruyi p eanut cake 如意糖

13. Original f lavor pingxi cake 原味平西餅

14. Curr y pingxi cake 咖哩平西餅

15. Ping’an tur tle cake molds 平安龜餅模

16. Classic-f lavor puf f s 經典原味小泡芙

17. Ping’an tur tle cakes 平安龜

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SPECIAL REPORT

Jiu Zhen Nan Jiu Zhen Nan is perhaps Taiwan’s best-known name when it comes to Chinese-style xibing or engagement cakes – literally “happiness cakes.” Established in 1890 in Taiwan’s oldest city, Tainan, the business originally made only ricebased traditional treats because wheat flour was nigh impossible to come by in Taiwan. The shop was moved to the port city of Kaohsiung in 1945 because while Tainan was becoming something of a sleepy backwater, Kaohsiung’s port facilities had been systematically built up by the Japanese when they controlled Taiwan 1895-1945, and the city was burgeoning. Wheat flour became readily available as a result of U.S. aid after the Second World War, and the shop began making engagement cakes. These have long been the confectioner’s best-selling offering, today accounting for 40% of overall sales.

President Eric Lee took over operations in 1996. He sees the chain’s mission as preserving and enhancing Taiwan’s traditional cake and pastry culture, and has carried out progressive changes. Ingredients are key, only premium-grade items are used, and the brand has been brought upscale.

“Middle-aged and older customers want tradition, but the younger customer wants change. We specially target modern consumers from age 28 to 37, who have the disposable income and willingness to pay more for premium products. We open outlets in upscale environments where such people go, such as high-level malls/department stores and High Speed Rail stations. While continuing to make traditional Chinese items, we also offer variations that suit our target customers.

For example, the items traditionally used in the sweet and salty engagementcake fillings have been adzuki-bean paste, nuts, meat stewed with soy sauce,

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a thin layer of dried egg yolk, etc. We have broadened their appeal by offering fillings of pineapple paste, coconut paste, mung-bean paste, and so on. Engagement cakes have traditionally been very large, and we have shrunk their size so you can eat one in a single sitting. All our items are now also light in calories.”

Eric was originally a real-estate developer, and has an eye for elegant design. Jiu Zhen Nan’s beautiful gift packaging has brought it a prestigious iF Design Award, and each of its shop interiors is a cool, alluring statement in understated elegance.

Lee Cake The Lee Cake shop is on Dihua Street, the key artery in one of Taipei’s most important heritage quarters, a wholesaleshop street for traditional-style regional goods that has been thriving since the latter half of the 19th century. The oldest building on the street went up in the 1850s. Lee Cake was opened in the 1890s, and the fifth-generation proprietors, like the owners of many local businesses, have in recent years thoroughly refurbished their traditional-style shophouse (long and narrow, with two/three floors, and with a retail outlet in front at street level for walkin business). The long street’s facades have once again become attractive works of art.

Lee Cake started as a retail store selling the cakes and pastries used in temple worship and festivals. The Lee family thereafter progressed into making all items on its own. Sales manager Rita Lee, from the fifth generation, says that “We still make all the same ‘traditional’ goods, but with modern twists in order to meet the different tastes and needs of modern consumers.” A prime example of this is the company’s best-selling treat,

the ping’an turtle, a cake shaped like a turtle, a traditional symbol of longevity, and stamped with the characters ping’an ( 平安 ), meaning “peace and safety.”

“These are traditionally made with flour,” says Lee, “which molds easily even when refrigerated. So we instead make our turtles using peanut powder for the shell and maltose with black-sesame paste for the filling, creating a treat that’s just mildly sweet and is not sticky like the traditional version. These make them easier to eat for older folk. We’ve also reduced the size so you can eat them in a single bite – an especially big hit with kids, and an effective way to introduce traditional Taiwan religious culture to the younger generation.” These changes have made the cakes popular year-round, not just when religious festivals come around.

Another good example of how new approaches are brought to oldtime favorites is Lee Cake’s traditional pingxi cakes, the shop’s no. 2 seller. The standard filling is mung-bean paste, but Lee Cake instead uses butter-bean paste, thus eliminating the stickiness and allowing seniors to continue eating them.

Yu Jan Shin Yu Jan Shin was founded in Dajia, a country town in central Taiwan, in 1966.

Its origins are decidedly unusual. Dajia’s iconic attraction is Zhenlan Temple, one of the country’s best-known temples dedicated to Mazu, Goddess of the Sea. The founder ran a small sundry-goods shop near the temple, and according to Alan Chen, a manager who is a member of the third generation in the family-run enterprise, “My grandfather was told by Mazu when communicating with her through divination blocks at the temple that he should go into the traditional

CAKE SHOPS

cake and pastry business. Though he knew nothing about the trade, he did as advised. His first effort at traditional bridal cakes produced ‘edibles’ so hard that his customers complained that even smashing them against a wall couldn’t break them.

“Things have gone much better since then.”

Yu Jan Shin’s flagship outlet is in one of Dajia’s most attractive and important heritage buildings, a tourist attraction in itself. The striking Baroque-style work of architecture is embellished with finely wrought wall and column carvings of Mazu and Dajia’s most famous products. On the second floor is the Dajia Three Treasures Museum, which has displays on Zhenlan Temple/Mazu, Dajia’s woven handicrafts, and Yu Jan Shin’s signature product.

That product is the naiyou subing or “butter crispy cake.” According to Alan Chen, in Taiwan’s Qing Dynasty pioneering days Da’an Port near Dajia was an important port of entry for immigrants from China. Many carried traditional subing or crispy cakes on the cross-strait voyage, and their safe arrival, plus the name of the port – da’an means “great peace” – eventually lent positive symbolism to the cakes made in Dajia, which became a popular choice in the region for the pastry gifts traditionally given to announce engagements and for offerings to deities. In 1983 the naiyou or butter version was born when Yu Jan Shin began using all-natural butter instead of the traditionally used lard, and made the cakes smaller. The butter crispy cake has since become a Dajia specialty product with an island-wide reputation, and a popular gift item. Crispy on the outside, it has a filling that is elegantly soft, creamy, rich, and aromatic.

English and Chinese Alan Chen 陳穎政 Dajia 大甲 Dajia Three Treasures Museum 大甲三寶文化館 Eric H. C. Lee 李雄慶 Lee Rong-huan 李榮煥 Mazu 媽祖 naiyou subing 奶油酥餅 ping'an turtle 平安龜 pingxi cakes 平西餅 Rita Lee 李佳憓 xibing 喜餅 Zhenlan Temple 鎮瀾宮

Jiu Zhen Nan ( 舊振南 ) Add: (Zhongzheng main store) 84, Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Qianjin Dist., Kaohsiung City ( 高雄市前金區中正四路 84 號 ) Tel: (07) 288-8202 Website: www.jzn.com.tw

Lee Cake ( 李亭香 ) Add: (Main store) 309, Sec. 1, Dihua St., Datong District, Taipei City ( 台北市大同區迪 化街一段 309 號 ) Tel: (02) 2557-8716 Website: www.lee-cake.com (Chinese)

Yu Jan Shin ( 裕珍馨 ) Add: (Main store) 67, Guangming St., Dajia District, Taichung City ( 台中市大甲區光明路 67 號 ) Tel: (04) 2687-2559 Website: www.yjs.com.tw (Chinese)

1. Eric H. C. Lee, president of Jiu Zhen Nan

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2. Lee Cake master baker Lee Rong-huan and his daughter Rita Lee

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3. Alan Chen, Yu Jan Shin manager

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