Travel in Taiwan (No.100 2020 7/8 )

2020

JUL & AUG

No.

EASY SCENIC TRAILS AOWANDA NATIONAL FOREST RECREATION AREA

100

QUICK CITY TOUR

TAOYUAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT AND TAOYUAN CITY

FUN TRIP PLAN

PLACES TO VISIT IN TROPICAL KENTING NATIONAL PARK

Townships In Northern Taitung County And Green Island

Android

iOS

Huang Min-hui

Chiayi City Government Advertisement

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler, It is now July, the sun is high in the sky, the weather could not be more fine, and all of us want to be spending all our time outside. We accommodate this desire with our Taiwan adventure picks this issue, keeping you out of doors under a heartwarming sun or merrily twinkling stars every possible hour.

We spend a good deal of our pages in what is one of Taiwan’s quietest and most ecologically pristine regions, the East Coast – specifically in its southern section, Taitung County. We have three separate feature articles – two explore townships right on the Pacific Coast, and one explores lovely Green Island out in the Pacific. This island is visible from the mainland on clear days, seeming to slowly bob up and down on the horizon.

The highlight experiences of our tour of the coastal townships of Changbin and Chenggong include visits to the coastal indigenous village of Pisirian, the famed rocky island called the “Platform of the Three Immortals,” and a scenic country boulevard known as Jingang (“King Kong”) Boulevard.

In Donghe Township we explore the vibrant surfing scene and the cultural-creative boutiques, artist studios, and live weekend music at the Xindong Sugar Factory Culture Park in Dulan village. Out on Green Island, we soak up the glorious scenery at the Zhaori Hot Springs, one of the world’s three natural saltwater hot springs, and visit offshore rock formations along the rugged coast with such picturesque monikers as General Rock, Sleeping Beauty, and Pekingese Dog. Elsewhere, in our Easy Scenic Trails department we head deep into the high mountains in the island’s center for an easy-trail expedition in one of Taiwan’s lovely national forest recreation areas, Aowanda, a place of densely forested terraces and valleys. In Fun Trip Plan, the fun will be had in Kenting National Park, Taiwan’s most popular getaway destination, best characterized as this land’s “tropical playground.” And in Quick City Tour it’s all the way up to the other end of the island, in the far north, for a zip-around tour of Taoyuan City using the convenient Taoyuan Airport MRT line.

Make Taiwan your summertime playground and enjoy your time on the island!

CHANG, SHI-CHUNG DIRECTOR GENERAL TOURISM BUREAU, MOTC, R.O.C.

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Travel in

PUBLISHER Taiwan Tourism Bureau

Taiwan

EDITING CONSULTANT T. C. Chou PUBLISHING ORGANIZATION TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU, MINISTRY OF TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATIONS

2020 JULY/AUGUST

CONTACT International Division, Taiwan Tourism Bureau Add: 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10694, TAIWAN Tel: 886-2-2349-1500 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: tbroc@tbroc.gov.tw Website: http://taiwan.net.tw

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月刊 Travel in Taiwan The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau (Advertisement) JULY/AUGUST, 2020 Tourism Bureau, MOTC First published Jan./Feb. 2004 ISSN: 18177964 GPN: 2009305475 Price: NT$200

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2020

JUL & AUG

No.

EASY SCENIC TRAILS AOWANDA NATIONAL FOREST RECREATION AREA

100

QUICK CITY TOUR

TAOYUAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT AND TAOYUAN CITY

FUN TRIP PLAN

PLACES TO VISIT IN TROPICAL KENTING NATIONAL PARK

ON THE COVER Green Island (photo by Aska Chi)

Townships In Northern Taitung County And Green Island

Android

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iOS

This magazine is printed on FSC TM COC certified paper.

Any product with the FSC TM logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

This magazine was printed with soy ink. Soy ink is said to be more environmentally friendly than petroleum-based ink and to make it easier to recycle paper.

Contents 32 23

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TAIWAN YEAR OF MOUNTAIN TOURISM HIKING IN TAIWAN Mountains to Visit Around the Island

10

TAITUNG VERDANT MOUNTAINS, AZURE OCEAN There Are Reasons Aplenty to Visit Taitung County’s Northernmost Townships

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TAITUNG

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

04

GREEN ISLAND

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS

Little Paradise Off the East Coast of Taiwan

06

32

07

LIVE THE BOHEMIAN LIFE, AT LEAST FOR A FEW DAYS

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36

EXPLORE - XIAO LIUQIU

EASY SCENIC TRAILS

48

RED MAPLE LEAVES AND MUCH MORE

TAITUNG

TRAVEL NEWS

East Coast Idyll – Donghe Township

CULTURE AND ART

The Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area in Central Taiwan

CONVENIENT TRAVEL

40

40

46

THE SUNLIGHT AND OTHER HIGHLIGHTS OF KENTING

TAOYUAN EXCURSION

FUN TRIP PLAN A Quick Tour of Southern Taiwan’s Tropical Playground

QUICK CITY TOUR Places to Visit Close to the International Airport

CORRECTION In the last issue of Travel in Taiwan we made a mistake. On page 37, we wrote as the Chinese name of a bus tour “ 阿里山人文生態二日遊 .” It should have been “ 雪霸國家公園觀霧自然風情二日遊 .”

We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this mistake might have caused.

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TA I WA N TOURISM E V ENTS

EVENTS IN THE LATE SUMMER

July | September

Taiwan Tourism Events Calendar Website

Outdoor Action and Cultural Delights

Note: Depending on developments during the current COVID-19 pandemic, the following events could be cancelled, postponed, or altered. Please visit the organizers’ websites for confirmation.

AROUND TAIWAN June ~ December

TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL 臺灣自行車節

Held annually since 2011, the Taiwan Cycling Festival is an impor tant event promoting bicycling in Taiwan. The festival is comprised of a host of cycling events, including the Taiwan KOM (King of Mountain) Challenge, a bike ride from Qixingtan Beach just north of Hualien City to the Wuling pass (3,275m above sea level) in the Mt. Hehuan area; the Come!Bikeday event at Sun Moon Lake; the Formosa 9 0 0 round-island bike ride; the Light up Taiwan Lighthouse Cycling Tour; and the Taichung Bicycle Carnival. taiwanbike.tw Photo courtesy of Taiwan Cycling Festival

NANTOU COUNTY September 27

SUN MOON LAKE INTERNATIONAL SWIMMING CARNIVAL

PINGTUNG COUNTY September 25 ~ October 4

DAPENG BAY YACHT & REGATTA FESTIVAL

日月潭萬人 泳 渡

大 鵬 灣 遊 艇 帆 船活動

Sun Moon Lake is the largest freshwater lake in Taiwan, and one of the island’s best-known tourist destinations. Swimming in the lake is prohibited, but there is one major exception, the annual Sun Moon Lake Swimming Carnival. Last year, the 37th edition of the event, well over 20,000 swimmers from more than 30 countries took to the water to complete the 3km swim from Zhaowu Wharf on the northern shore of the lake to Ita Thao Wharf on its southeast side. The swim is not a competition, but a relaxed affair with a party atmosphere.

Usually held in April each year, the Dapeng Bay Yacht & Regatta Festival has been moved to the fall this year. The event brings together sporting enthusiasts who prefer to stay on water’s sur face, doing yachting, windsur fing, sailboating, SUPing, kayaking, jet-skiing, and flyboarding. Most of the activities take place inside the large lagoon in the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area. Sheltered from the sea but receiving strong winds, the lagoon is perfect for watersports such as windsurfing and sailing.

pulifourswim.tw Photo courtesy of Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area Administration

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www.dbnsa.gov.tw Photo courtesy of Pingtung County Government

J ULY-SEP TEMBER

MIAOLI COUNTY

YUNLIN COUNTY

October 1 ~ 10

October

SANYI INTERNATIONAL WOOD CARVING ART FESTIVAL

YUNLIN INTERNATIONAL PUPPET THEATER FESTIVAL

The town of Sanyi in Miaoli County is known for mostly one thing, wood sculpture ar t, and there is perhaps no better time to visit than during this festival. While the Sanyi Wood Sculpture Museum, the festival’s main venue, can be visited year round, the festival has numerous attractive activities at other sites that allow you to see master carvers at work and even do some woodcarving yourself. While in the area, be sure to go on an unforgettable rail-bike ride on a decommissioned railway line starting at quaint Shengxing Railway Station.

St age d a nnua lly since 19 9 9, the Yunlin Inte r nationa l Puppet Theater Festival is a great gathering of puppet-theater lovers yo u n g a n d o l d . T h e f e s t i va l t a ke s p l a c e i n Yu n l i n C o u n t y ’s Huwei Township, known as Taiwan’s center of puppet theater, and neighboring Douliu Township. Last year, local and foreign troupes conducted around 100 puppet performances, entertaining t h e c r owd s wi t h a wi d e r a n g e of p u p p e t d r a m a . A p a r t f r o m the per formances, visitors can enjoy a host of other activities, including exhibitions and DIY workshops.

三義木 雕 藝 術 節

wood.mlc.gov.tw

雲 林 國 際 偶戲 節

2019puppet.yunlin.gov.tw Photo courtesy of Sanyi Wood Sculpture Museum

NANTOU COUNTY

Photo courtesy of Yunlin County Government

Photo courtesy of Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area Administration

October

SUN MOON LAKE CYCLING, MUSIC & FIREWORKS FESTIVAL 日月潭 花火音 樂 嘉 年華

This festival combines active fun (bicycling and road running) with passive enjoyments (music concerts and a fireworks show), all happening on the shores of Sun Moon Lake. The bicycling event, named Come!Bikeday, is a relaxed ride around the lake made by hundreds of cyclists, while the road run is a marathon race following the same route. The musical entertainment features popular, indigenous, and classical music. Accompanied by the classical music, the fireworks show lights up the lake with vibrant colors reflecting off the water’s surface. tour.ntpc.gov.tw

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NEWS & Events around Taiwan Photo courtesy of EP-Museum

Photo courtesy of Taoyuan City Government

BAISHAJIA LIGHTHOUSE REOPENED

NEW ART MUSEUM IN NANTOU COUNTY

Since Taiwan is an island surrounded by the sea, you will not be surprised to find lighthouses along its shores. To many travelers, lighthouses, often located in dramatically scenic locations such as atop promontories, have a special allure. Oftentimes they are also historic monuments that have stood against wind and weather and the other tests of time for a century and more. One of the oldest lighthouses in Taiwan is the Baishajia Lighthouse in Taoyuan City. It has helped to guide ships through the waters of the Taiwan Strait since 1901.

Originally standing 38m tall, after being damaged during World War II it was rebuilt to its current height of 27.7m. After undergoing restoration and redesign of its inner space, the lighthouse was reopened earlier this year to visitors. Inside you will find an informative exhibition with interactive elements.

On the way to the popular Xitou Forest Recreation Area in central Taiwan's Nantou County, you will now pass by a modernistic whitefacade building fronted by a neat lawn. The EP-MUSEUM, located right beside County Road 151 about 7km north of Xitou, was established by Dai Sheng-yi, founder of the Wang Group and EPBooks. Visitors can marvel at 24 of Dai's own oil paintings and, each day during the early afternoon, enjoy live music entertainment while sipping coffee or tea. www.facebook.com/epmuseum (Chinese)

travel.tycg.gov.tw/en Photo courtesy of Forestry Bureau

Photo courtesy of Keelung City Government

LUODONG LOCOMOTIVE MOVING AGAIN

KEELUNG COASTAL BIKEWAY

Motionless for more than 40 years, one of the locomotives on display at the Luodong Forestry Culture Park in Yilan County is now rolling down the tracks once again. The pitch-black bulky 12-ton machine is one of several locomotives in the park that originally were used to transport timber from the mountains in the Taipingshan area to Luodong on the Yilan Plain. While the other locomotives have only received facelifts to make them attractive static exhibits, work has been conducted on the inside of this one as well. The wheels are now again turning, and the locomotive can be pushed or pulled using man or machine power along the tracks running through the park. Once the boiler and other essential machine parts have been restored as well, visitors will be seeing the locomotive running on its own power, perhaps even on a restored Taipingshan-Luodong railway line (restoration of the line is currently being discussed by the government).

Taiwan's Northeast Coast, roughly the coastal area from Keelung City to the northern part of Yilan County, is a highly scenic and diverse region of the island, attracting large numbers of local and international tourists. After the reopening of the decommissioned single-track Shen'ao Line connecting Ruifang Station with the new Badouzi Station in 2016, discovering the tourist attractions in Keelung's northeast corner and further east along the coast has become significantly more convenient. And there are quite a few things to see (including scenic Wangyou Valley, windy Chaojing Park, and the National Museum of Marine Science and Technology) and do (rail biking, eating seafood at a fishing harbor, and bicycling). In order to make bicycling safer in this area, the Keelung City Government is currently in the process of establishing a dedicated bike route, separated from the busy coastal highway, that when completed will connect central Keelung in the west with Badouzi Station in the east. Part of this bike route was finished this April, a 380m long and 4.5m wide stretch of bikeway right by the sea, allowing bikers to go on leisure rides along unique rock formations close to Wanghaixiang Fishing Harbor.

www.forest.gov.tw/EN/0000222 (Chinese)

https://tour.klcg.gov.tw

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CULT URE A ND A R T

CULTURE Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings Because of the COVID-19 situation, performance schedules are in a state of flux; please check official websites for confirmation.

Until August 30

Until November 15

CHANGING NATURE – DISORDERED ECOSYSTEMS

自然 變 調－失 序的 生 態 系

THE DREAM MAP – KANGXI TAIWAN MAPS, FAMILY REUNION 夢幻古圖 —《 康熙 臺灣 輿 圖》總 動員

There was a time when maps were true works of art. One great example is a map of Taiwan created between 1699 and 1704 by the Qing court under the rule of Emperor Kangxi (1654~1722). Resembling a traditional Chinese shanshui (lit. “mountain-water”) painting, this precious map is a national treasure. It depicts the island’s mountains, rivers, and settlements, giving an indication as to how well the land was understood by the rulers in mainland China in the early 18 th century. There are three editions of the map in the collection of the museum, the original and two copies. This exhibition showcases a new digital version in which the three editions are combined (the copies are slightly different from the original).

National Taiwan Museum [Taipei City] www.ntm.gov.tw

The natural environment around the globe has been changing at a rapid pace in recent decades, and the negative impact on ecosystems has been significant. This exhibition attempts to explain how ecosystems have been changing because of human activities. Among the changes experienced by animals, for example, are a shift in consumed foods, including the intake of toxins, drastic changes in living conditions, new challenges in breeding offspring, and the invasion of new species in established habitats. The exhibition also explores how these changes in the natural environment have in turn also had a major impact on the life of human beings.

National Museum of Natural Science [Taichung City] www.nmns.edu.tw

Until August 31

Until August 30 Photo courtesy of Kaohsiung City Government

HIDE-AND-SEEK – THE SECRETS BEHIND THE SCENES OF “BARKLEY” 躲 貓 貓 : 小猫秘 密 基 地 展

If you like cute car toon cats, this exhibition will cer tainly be of interest to you. Barkley the Cat is a creation of Taiwan’s award-winning studio2 Animation Lab, a company that produces enter taining and educational animation films about life in Taiwan. One highlight of this exhibition is a new short film, Barkley: Party in the Warehouse, shown in a VR 360 theater. In the film, Barkley and his cat friends are having a great time playing hide and seek after a cute puppy has arrived in the warehouse they call their home. Another highlight is a large model of a bus; after boarding, visitors put on goggles and experience in VR what it’s like for Barkley to ride on the bus – a fun experience for children!

Pier-2 Art Center [Kaohsiung City] pier-2.khcc.gov.tw

TREASURES FROM THE NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM’S COLLECTION OF QING DYNASTY HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS 院 藏 清代 歷 史 文書 珍品 Keeping archives has a long history in China, dating back more than 3,000 years. Historical documents in these archives have been an invaluable resource for historians to understand the operation of dynasties throughout the centuries. This exhibition focuses on imperial decrees, official documents, palace memorials, biographies of eminent officials, and maps and illustrations from the Qing dynasty period. One section of the exhibition is about archival materials relating to Taiwan, with selected items giving visitors an understanding of the people, places, affairs, and products of the island as documented by the Qing court.

National Palace Museum [Taipei City] www.npm.gov.tw

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Taiwan

TA I WA N Y E A R OF M OU NTA IN TOU R ISM

Hiking in Taiwan Mountains to Visit Around the Island

D

TE X T & MAP V I S ION

uring 2020, the Year of Mountain Tourism in Taiwan, the Taiwan Tourism Bureau is promoting areas around the island that are popular with hiking enthusiasts. Exploring Taiwan’s mountains allows you to experience incredibly scenic vistas, immerse yourself in rich natural habitats, visit indigenous communities, and also learn a thing or two about local history. The following mountain areas are highly recommended for unforgettable hiking and trekking adventures.

Chishang Township

Coastal Mountains

Chishang is a township in Taitung County, located close to the southern end of the long and narrow East Rift Valley. Like other places in the valley, Chishang draws large numbers of tourists who come to enjoy the scenery of flat farm fields flanked by high mountains. Among the various Chishang-specific attractions are bicycle jaunts (Brown Avenue), lake rafting (Dapo Pond), and feasting on delicious meals made with the high-quality locally produced rice. Two major highways, the No. 9 (main route through the valley) and the No. 20 (Southern Cross Island Highway), connect in the township. On the Taitung side, the cross-island highway gives you access to the Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area.

The coastal mountains in Taitung are not known as a prime playground for hiking enthusiasts, but one of the trails you might want to consider is the trail up to the peak of Mt. Dulan (1,190m), regarded as a sacred mountain by the local Amis and Puyuma indigenous tribes. To get to the trailhead, you have to follow a minor road (4km long) that starts north of the 150km marker on the coastal highway (Route 11). It’s about 20km north of central Taitung City. The natural trail takes you through a forest of lush f lora and fauna. Along the trail you can take in marvelous views of both the East Rift Valley to the west and the Pacific Coast to the east.

South of Taitung City, in Taimali Township, is another coastal-mountain area known not only for its stunning views of the southern Taitung coast, but also for its daylily fields. Like Sixty Stone Mountain and Mt. Chike to the north in Hualien County, the daylilies here carpet the mountain slopes in splashes of bright orange during the blooming season in later summer, a time perfect for long walks along minor roads and for sampling local delicacies made with daylily buds and flowers.

Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area Located at 2,300m above sea level, Xiangyang is a pristine and comparatively undeveloped, natural forest recreation area about 40km from the town of Chishang. A visitor center is available where you can educate yourself about the abundant flora and fauna in the area before hitting its easy-to-follow trails. The area has four trails, namely the Xiangyang Trail (0.5km), Xiangsong Trail (0.72km), Songjing Trail (1.1km), and Songtao Trail (1.58km). The last connects to the Jiaming Lake National Trail (see below). Along the trails and from numerous lookout spots, you’ll marvel at the beautiful trees (including pine and cypress), spot beautiful birds (including mikado pheasants, which may be walking on the trails themselves), and take in breathtaking mountain scenery, including Mt. Guan at 3,668m.

Jiaming Lake While the trails in the Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area are suitable for the average tourist, hiking to Jiaming Lake, which is outside Xiangyang, requires hiking experience, planning, and equipment. The stunningly beautiful lake, located at an altitude of 3,520m, is the second-highest mountain lake in Taiwan. The hike is often done in two days, with an overnight stay in either the Xiangyang Cabin or the Jiaming Lake Hut. The lake trek can be combined with a scaling of nearby Mt. Sancha (3,496m), the peak of which is an excellent spot to view the sunrise. The Jiaming Lake walk isn’t a technical hike, but since the lake is in the high mountains it is recommended that anyone wishing to go there get in contact with, or put together, a hiking group to go on an organized outing with a qualified guide.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Brown Avenue 伯朗大道 Chishang Township 池上鄉 Dapo Pond 大坡池 East Coast National Scenic Area 東部海岸國家風景區 Jiaming Lake 嘉明湖 Jiaming Lake Hut 嘉明湖山屋 Mt. Dulan Trail 都蘭山登山步道 Mt. Jinzhen Leisure Farm Area 金針山休閒農業區 Mt. Sancha 三叉山 Xiangyang Cabin 向陽工寮 Xiangyang National Forest Recreation Area 向陽國家森林遊樂區 YEAR OF MOUNTAIN TOURISM i30.taiwan.net.tw/En EAST RIFT VALLEY NATIONAL SCENIC AREA www.erv-nsa.gov.tw EAST COAST NATIONAL SCENIC AREA www.eastcoast-nsa.gov.tw

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V E R D A N T M O U N T A I N S, A Z U R E O C E A N There Are Reasons Aplenty to Visit Taitung County’s Northernmost Townships TE X T FR A NCESCA CH A NG

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PHOTOS AS K A CHI , V I S ION

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Taitung County, stretched along Taiwan’s southeast coast, offers scenic beauty in great diversity, with bright-blue ocean waters, terraced rice fields, and towering mountains. Possessing the longest coastline of any county on the island, Taitung is a popular destination for tourists looking for cycling, surfing, hot-air ballooning, and a host of other outdoor-activity adventures. Apart from the better-known tourist areas close to Taitung City, visitors should also explore the county’s lesser-known coastal townships in the north, Changbin and Chenggong, where the dramatic beauty and the warmth of the local residents will delight. You’ll find fine beaches, picturesque fishing harbors, majestic coastal mountains, stylish homestays, and cozy cafés.

SANXIANTAI A 400m-long iconic eight-arch footbridge connects this small island with the mainland. Before this bridge was built in 1987, locals would wait for low tide to reach the island on foot.

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Jingang Boulevard Quaint Changbin Township is in the far north of Taitung County. The population here mainly consists of members of the indigenous Amis tribe, and the township is home to some of Taitung’s most picturesque landscapes, attracting visitors from near and far. Most notable is Jingang (“King Kong”) Boulevard, accessed by taking County Road 13, which starts just north of the coastal highway’s 85km marker. The “boulevard” is a minor road situated between the ocean and the coastal mountains, one of which, Mt. Jingang, is said to resemble the head of a gorilla (hence the name of the road). On both sides of the road are terraced rice fields, known collectively as the Changguang Terraced Fields.

A lthough in recent years this road has become quite popular with Instagrammers and bicyclists (it is part of the 5km Zhongyong Bikeway), it remains a quiet spot most of the time and you’ll likely enjoy the pristine scenery all by yourself, with the possible exception of a friendly rice farmer or two out in the fields. Close to the highest point of the road’s most photogenic 1.5km-long straight section is a rest pavilion. This is among the best spots for taking in the scenery and shooting photos. The ideal times to come are when the rice plants in the fields are young and have a refreshing green color, or when it’s close to harvesting time and they are a golden-brown. The golden ears swaying in the breeze, creating “golden waves,” are perfectly complemented by the blue waves of the Pacific Ocean in the far distance. This being an area with almost no light pollution, in the evening the road turns into a starry-sky avenue with the heavens seemingly merging with the sea.

PADDY FIELDS AND MOUNTAINS Jingang Boulevard is a scenic location, great for enjoying fine views and taking tons of photos.

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duli Beach Chenggong Township, south of Changbin, is known for its picturesque beaches, with bright turquoise waters that seem to sparkle brighter than at beaches further south. One of these is Duli Beach, located on a small secluded bay southeast of Duli village. Surfers in the know come here to catch the waves, light bonfires, and chill out under the star-filled night sky. Because of its smaller waves and a laid-back vibe, the beach mainly draws surfers who want to take it easy. It is also attracting increasing numbers of Instagrammers because of a visual effect that has become known in Chinese as “Sky Mirror.” During low tides in daylight hours the wet, flat beach has crystal-clear reflections of blue sky, white clouds, and silhouettes of frolicking people, creating perfect photo ops. One hour before or after the lowest tide is the ideal time for capturing this effect. To make sure you come at the right time, you can check the day’s tide schedule on the Central Weather Bureau’s website (www.cwb.gov.tw).

Just five minutes from Duli Beach is the headquarters of the East Coast National Scenic Area Administration (www. eastcoast-nsa.gov.tw). Visitors can stop by the visitor center there to find information about the entire scenic area, which covers most of the coast between the cities of Hualien and Taitung, a wonderland of coastal terraces, beaches (sand and pebble), capes, and sea-eroded caves. Sitting on a gentle slope backed by high mountains, the administration’s buildings are inside a spacious park that once a year is the venue for the East Coast Land Art Festival (www.teclandart.tw). The festival features installations by local and international artists that celebrate the east coast’s natural geographic landscape. A key festival attraction is the Moonlight Sea Concert, a series of concerts that take place around the full moon of four consecutive months. During the concerts you’ll be able to view the moon rising above the Pacific Ocean, weather permitting, creating an unforgettable romantic scene.

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BEACH FUN Wait for the low tide to capture images of crystal-clear reflections on the flat sand beach.

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o’nok Studio and café

COFFEE AND CRAFT At O'nok enjoy a fine coffee or tea and learn the art of weaving from a friendly Amis teacher.

The majority of Changbin’s population consists of members of the indigenous Amis tribe, a people that have strived to preserve their history, practices, and culture. O’nok Studio and Café, located on Highway 11 (85km marker), is an establishment where you can witness how traditional Amis tribal culture is preserved in today’s modern world. The wood and stucco building was created by an Amis couple on a mission to share their tribe’s legacy. For the past ten years the couple has been serving homemade food and offering DIY activities inside their café/studio.

The freshly baked cakes and desserts are a true delight. In addition to freshly brewed coffee, O’nok Studio and Café also serves up unique coldbrewed teas that provide a glimpse into the Amis way of living. One tea is made from a native herb that resembles lemongrass, with fresh stevia leaves added to sweeten the drink. While sipping your tea the owners will gladly share stories about the indigenous way of life, including how the herbs in the tea have been foraged in the forest.

You can also learn about the art of weaving. In the back of the café is a large loom used to weave traditional Amis clothing worn during ceremonies. During the DIY sessions that are held, you’ll be taught how to weave cup holders and bracelets on a smaller tabletop loom using a technique passed down by generations of Amis women.

A final note – if you like cats you will definitely fall in love with this place. Not only are the feline friends raised by the couple extremely cute, they are also very approachable, and might even jump on your lap for a place to take a nap.

O’NOK STUDIO AND CAFÉ ( 巫驽客木屋 ) 0988-451-555 No. 134-1, Changguang, Changbin Village, Changbin Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣長濱鄉長濱村長光 134-1 號 ) www.facebook.com/OnokWoodHouse

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Shinlong garden café If you like the idea of taking your coffee or tea from a high vantage point overlooking the Pacific Ocean, there are few destinations better than Shinlong Garden in Changbin. This is a true off-the-beaten-path location that requires a 15-minute drive on a narrow, winding road that starts just south of the coastal highway’s 74km marker.

Once there you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Changbin’s beautiful coastline. There is a main building with a dining area inside and a terrace overlooking the ocean. From the building, an elevated woodplank path leads to a pavilion, and further on you’ll come to a round wooden deck with a star dragon sculpture (“Shinlong” is a transliteration of the Chinese for “star dragon”), a great place to take photos. Scattered on the surrounding grassy areas are wooden chairs, recliners, and patio swings allowing you to rest and enjoy the scenery. Along narrow stone paths you can also appreciate bright pink, purple, and white lilies, hibiscus, and dandelions. A bit further down the hill from the wooden deck you’ll first come to a bell hanging from a wooden frame, and even further downhill a path leads you through a small forest area to a romantic spot where you can sit on a bench and take in the coastal scenery looking in a southerly direction.

Shinlong Garden serves coffee, tea, and other beverages, as well as yummy cakes, daily from 10am to 5:30pm. For lunch, reservation in advance is required. Food options change from season to season. For example, kimchi fried noodles and Japanese-style fried pork noodles are available for lunch during the summer, while rich tiramisu and cheesecake is served during afternoon tea in the spring.

UNBEATABLE VIEWS High above the Pacific Ocean, sit down to a cup of coffee and some delicious cakes, relax, and take in the incredible vistas.

Makerahay indigenouS r eStaurant Makerahay Indigenous Restaurant, located in the village of Sanjian, less than 2km north of O’nok Studio and Café, offers visitors an intimate, upclose experience with indigenous residents of Changbin and the food they serve. This colorful restaurant is adorned with the bright, symbolismrich colors of the Amis tribe. It has a patio with a straw-covered roof and a bar with rustic chairs made of driftwood. The food is cooked by tribe members right in front of you – the exotic dishes include fried bamboo shoots, “dragon whisker” asparagus with pickled tomatoes, barbecue pork, sticky rice, and flying-fish soup. The proprietors also offer visitors a tour of their village, and in the evening might even invite you to sing and dance with them.

SHINLONG GARDEN ( 星龍花園 ) 0983-695-378 No. 118-20, Changyuan Village, Changbin Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣長濱鄉樟原村 118-20 號 ) www.facebook.com/shinlong2017 NT$150 (including one beverage) MAKERAHAY INDIGENOUS RESTAURANT ( 真柄壹號倉 ) (08) 983-2397 No. 58-2, Zhenbing, Neighborhood 3, Sanjian Village, Changbin Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣長濱鄉三間村 3 鄰真柄 58-2 號 ) www.facebook.com/magelahai INTIMATE ENCOUNTERS Makerahay is not just a restaurant, but also a fine place to get to know friendly indigenous folks living in Sanjian Village.

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PiSirian Pisirian is an indigenous village located next to the sea northwest of the iconic Sanxiantai arch bridge (see below) in Chenggong Township. In the village’s early years, goats used to roam the area surrounding this indigenous settlement, which explains the name “Pisirian,” meaning “a place of goat husbandry” in the Amis language. Examples of the Amis residents’ artistic talents can be seen in the village, including large- and small-sized goats made from driftwood on the dike that separates the ocean from the settlement.

As well, when walking through the small village you will notice a number of cute wall paintings. In 2013 the famous Taiwanese artist Jimmy cooperated with Pisirian to create 11 artworks in various locations around the village, including paintings and goat sculptures, as part of a campaign to bring public art to this Amis community.

A s with many indigenous villages throughout Taiwan, Pisirian has experienced population aging. A decade ago the “PawPaw Drum” program was initiated, an attempt to help in the education of the children whose parents are working in other parts of Taiwan, and to foster a love for cultural tradition and musical expression. As part of the program, performances by the drum troupe, along with drum workshops, are organized for visitors.

PHOTO OPPS Check out the Jimmy paintings on the walls in Pisirian Village and pose in front of the Yiwan Postcard Church in Yiwan Village.

yiwan PoStcard church The Yiwan Postcard Church is a small place of worship in Chenggong’s Yiwan village, one of many churches you might see along the east coast highway – a Catholic church is just a few hundred meters to the north in the same small village. Estimates are that 70% of Taiwan’s indigenous population adheres to the Christian faith, the reason for the large number of churches in this part of Taiwan. The church is a short walk from the highway (north of the 101km marker), opposite a picturesque crescent bay adorned with Hawaii-like palm trees. What makes this tiny church interesting, and beloved by photographers, is its façade, which appears to be as flat as a postcard, hence the name.

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UNFORGETTABLE SUN RISES Sanxiantai is one of the top tourist attractions on the East Coast. It's also the perfect location for catching unforgettable sunrises above the Pacific Ocean.

Photo courtesy of East Coast National Scenic Area

Sanxiantai Sanxiantai, located on the coast 4km northeast of Chenggong town, is one of the top tourist sites on Taiwan’s east coast. It’s a small island connected to a headland on the Taiwan mainland by a 400m-long footbridge. Before this iconic eight-arch bridge was built in 1987, locals would wait for low tide to reach the island on foot.

The eight arches of the bridge are said to represent the eight immortals in Chinese Daoist mythology. Three huge rocks make up the island’s most prominent feature, and according to legend, these represent three immortals who once stepped on the island – hence the name “Sanxiantai,” which means “Terrace of the Three Immortals” in Chinese. The folklore of the local indigenous people tells a different story, however. According to their belief, the eight wave-like arches make the bridge resemble a sea dragon that is said to live in a cave on the seabed, protecting the island. Crossing the bridge feels a bit like walking out to cross the ocean, with large rocks and oftentimes tumultuous waters below you.

Once on the island you can follow a wooden boardwalk, passing strange rocks and tropical vegetation. Coming closer to the far end of the island turn right, leaving the boardwalk, and scramble across the sharp-edged black rocks, close to the water, to reach a steep staircase that leads to a small lighthouse. There you can enjoy an amazing panoramic view of the vast Pacific Ocean in front and the long mainland coastline in the distance behind. The whole island can be explored in about two hours.

Sanxiantai is a well-known spot to watch the first sunrise of the year. Many people will gather on the pebble beach close to the mainland end of the footbridge in the early hours of January 1st, kept warm by musical entertainment and the anticipation of a grand show when the rays of the year’s first sun break forth across the ocean.

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xingang fiShing harBor Chenggong town, southwest of Sanxiantai, is one of the few sizable towns between the cities of Hualien and Taitung. It has an important fishing harbor, Xingang, with a fleet of modest-sized fishing boats, most painted blue in whole or part. Visitors come for the lively auctions held between 3 and 4 each afternoon, to witness how buyers and fishermen haggle over the fresh catch of the day. The exciting exchanges and the amazing variety of marine life brought to land give you a glimpse into the daily life of the people of Chenggong.

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FRESH CATCH EVERY DAY Like so many ďŹ shing harbors around Taiwan, Chenggong's Xingang Harbor attracts tourists with ultra-fresh seafood. One of the best eateries in town is the long-established, awardwinning Katzer Restaurant.

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k atzer reStaurant A lively fishing harbor means that high-quality seafood is almost certainly available in town each day, and it is therefore not surprising to find many excellent seafood restaurants in Chenggong. One establishment not to be missed is Katzer, a long-established eatery that continues a long family tradition: preserving fish using a pickling, smoking, and sun-drying method. Katzer specializes in fresh mahi-mahi, serving it fried and over rice, and in traditional Taiwanese dishes such as thick soup with meat dumplings, oyster omelet, and braised pork on rice (the restaurant was selected as one of Taiwan’s best during the Taiwan Braised Pork on Rice Festival in 2019). Fish liver is also a specialty, and a favorite among local residents.

Katzer’s decor has a nostalgic feel that takes visitors back to the 1950s, with such items as a vintage rotary phone, radio, TV set, and photographs from that decade on display. The highly unusual restroom is the talk of the town, with a bathtub converted into a fishpond and vintage caps from beer and other types of bottles glued to the wall in artistic designs.

KATZER ( 卡茲爾餐廳 ) (08) 985-2257 No. 115, Datong Rd., Chenggong Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣成功鎮大同路 115 號 )

MODERN AND MINIMALISTIC A small gray-concrete semi-open building, the David Samstrong Villa has a modern, simplistic design yet is at the same time a very warm and cozy place to stay.

david SaMStrong villa W hen planning to stay in the coastal townships of Changbin and Chenggong, you have a wide range of unique homestay options where buildings seamlessly blend into the natural environment. One such place is the David SamStrong Villa in Chenggong. To get to the villa, tucked away behind trees in an area close to the coastal mountains, you have to take a small road that begins north of the 128km marker of the coastal highway. This is a very stylish and very warm place. Upon arrival you might well be greeted by the owner’s friendly dog on the villa’s gravelfilled driveway, and see one of his cats sauntering by.

The small gray-concrete semi-open building has two floors, and can be described as modern simplistic.

The structure looks like several rectangular blocks stacked together, aligning imperfectly. Part of the first f loor protrudes out into a decorative lawn area, while the second level has a large open space and an exterior staircase leading to the rooftop.

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There are just two bedrooms, both on the first floor, with floors of red and orange tiles and private patios. On the second floor is a spacious and well-equipped common room, with a large TV, surround-sound audio, a selection of books, and a fully-stacked kitchen complete with snacks and beverages. A sumptuous, lovely-arranged Western breakfast is served here in the morning.

Tall windows allow natural sunlight to permeate the room. On the roof is a deck with unobstructed views of the ocean in the distance on one side and lush mountains, teeming with wildlife, on the other.

The villa’s owner is a man from Taipei who served his military service in Dulan, a coastal town just 30 minutes to the south (see article on page 32). After deciding that he preferred Taitung’s

Shinlong Garden

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O’nok Studio and Café

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Yiwan Postcard Church

simple and relaxing coastal lifestyle to Taipei’s busy, cosmopolitan living, he purchased the land here a while back and worked with an architect to custom-design this villa. Since opening he has received a number of tourism awards and other laurels for his excellent service and facilities.

The villa can only be rented by one party (maximum four persons) at a time – meaning you have to rent the whole building – to ensure maximum privacy. If you only need one of the two guestrooms, however, you can rent the villa, minus one of the rooms, to save some money.

Room rates (weekdays) are NT$6,800 (4 persons/2 bedrooms), NT$4,200 (2 persons/1 bedroom), and NT$3,800 (1 person/1 bedroom).

DAVID SAMSTRONG VILLA ( 大尾山姆維拉 ) 0920-572-179 No. 134-7, Xiaoma Rd., Chenggong Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣成功鎮小馬路 134-7 號 ) www.ds-villa.tw (Chinese)

GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND While there is public transport connecting the towns and villages along Taitung's coast, services are infrequent. Renting a car or a scooter, or hiring a taxi driver, are more convenient options for getting around. Note that larger car-rental companies allow renting a car at one branch and returning it at another in the region. For example, you can rent a car in Taitung City and return it in the town of Yuli or in the city of Hualien. The coastal highway is part of the popular round-Taiwan bicycle route, and bicycling in Taitung is highly recommended; the main coastal highway has moderate gradients and is devoid of heavy traffic.

Pisirian Katzer Restaurant

Taitung County

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Duli Beach

David SamStrongVilla

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Taiwan

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Changguang Terraced Fields 長光梯田 Duli Beach 都歷沙灘 East Coast Land Art Festival 東海岸大地藝術節 East Coast National Scenic Area 東海岸國家風景區 Jingang ("King Kong") Boulevard 金剛大道

Moonlight Sea Concert 月光•海音樂會 Mt. Jingang 金剛山 Pisirian 比西里岸 Sanxiantai 三仙台 "Sky Mirror" 天空之鏡 Xingang Fishing Harbor 新港漁港 Yiwan Postcard Church 宜灣卡片教堂

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Green Island Lighthouse

Green Island Human Rights Culture Park

Wangong Cave

Nanliao Fishing Harbor

Green Island

Youzihu Little Great Wall

Pekingese Dog Rock

Zhaori Hot Springs

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EARLY SUN HOT SPRINGS At Zhaori Hot Springs, in the southeast corner of Green Island, you can bathe right by the sea, and watch the sunrise if you come early.

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Little Paradise Off the East Coast of Taiwan TE X T FR A NCESCA CH A NG

PHOTOS AS K A CHI

Less than an hour by ferry from the Taiwan mainland, Green Island is an extremely popular tourist destination during the warmer months of the year, drawing tourists with an amazing mix of high-hill and ocean vistas, unique shops and guesthouses, and world-class snorkeling and diving sites.

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reen Island is a small volcanic island that sits 33km off the east coast of Taiwan’s main island; it is part of Taitung County. This tropical paradise, named after the vivid green foliage that lines its coast and covers its volcanic hills, has an average temperature of 23.5 degrees Celsius, with temperatures rising above 30 degrees during the summer months.

With a circumference of about 20km, this lush, verdant island can be circled in just one hour by scooter, which is the most feasible way to travel around. The 16.3km round-island coastal road passes by small caves, takes you along amazing coastal scenery with deserted beaches, and climbs steep lush hills. Tourists are drawn to the island by its crystal-blue waters and green hills. Green Island provides the perfect escape from Taiwan’s crowded cities, with little traffic and no pollution.

Zhaori Hot Springs

One of the best tourist attractions on Green Island is the Zhaori Hot Springs, one of only three natural saltwater hot springs in the world – the others are located in Kyushu, Japan, and Sicily, Italy. Located on the southeast coast of the island, from the hot-spring pools you can view the sunrise over the Pacific Ocean. “Zhao Ri” means “morning sun” in Chinese. There are three open-air circular baths close to the sea, filled with a mixture of seawater and underground sulfuric water heated by the magma deep under the island.

Apart from the pools by the sea, higher up closer to the entrance there are also five open-air hot-spring pools and the hot-spring area’s other facilities (showers and changing rooms). While the average water temperature of the pools by the sea is 53 degrees Celsius, the temperatures within the pools near the entrance are warmer, as they are closer to the source. The temperature of the source water is so high (90 degrees) that you can even boil eggs in it. Indeed, a special non-soaking pool close to the sea is provided in which one can boil eggs. The eggs are put in plastic nets and hung from pegs on metal bars placed across the raised pool. It takes a couple of minutes until the eggs are ready to eat.

There is also an indoor hot-spring area that is equipped with water jets for relaxing massages. The Zhaori Hot Springs are open almost 24 hours, allowing you to watch the sunrise while soaking, listen to the ocean waves, enjoy a sunset massage, and gaze at the stars after sundown.

Little Great Wall

The Little Great Wall Trail is a 300m path with steep steps that takes you to the top of a high promontory on the east coast of the island. Green foliage lines the winding path, which vaguely resembles China’s Great Wall, hence the name. The short and easy 10-minute walk leads to two pavilions sitting at the edge of a cliff that drops to the sea. There you are presented with breathtaking views of the coast and the azure ocean far below.

Looking south from the pavilions, you can see unique rock formations that sit in a bay known as Haishenping. One is the Pekingese Dog Rock, named after its resemblance to the floppy-eared dog. The rock’s left side, seen in profile, faces the pavilions, with the dog looking out to sea like a puppy lying on its belly. Right next to this is the Sleeping Beauty Rock, named because it resembles a beautiful woman lying on her back. The offshore rock seen is in fact just her head, joined to her body (a promontory) by a slender arc of rock – the hole beneath created by erosion – that represents her slender neck.

If you look north from the pavilions you’ll see a bay known as Youzihu, home to an abandoned fishing village and a sea cave. The Little Great Wall Trail is a popular scenic spot during the daytime. In addition, because of the limited light pollution here, it’s also a great location for pondering the star-studded sky after the sun goes down, with the Milky Way clearly visible.

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BEST SCENERY Perhaps the best spot to take a good look at Green Island's rugged coastline is the pavilion at the end of the Little Great Wall Trail. Among the rock formations you can see are the Pekingese Dog Rock and the Sleeping Beauty Rock.

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SOUTHEAST CORNER After taking a soothing hot-spring bath in the Zhaori Hot-Springs, walk up the close-by grassy promontory that constitutes the island's southeast corner for amazing views of land and sea.

ZHAORI HOT SPRINGS ( 朝日溫泉 ) 0980-000-476 No. 167, Wenquan Rd., Gongguan Village, Ludao Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣綠島鄉公館村溫泉路 167 號 ) 5am~2am (May~September); 6am~12 midnight (October~April) NT$200

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Photo courtesy of East Coast National Scenic Area Administration

SIGHTSEEING Among the many must-see sights on Green Island are the snow-white lighthouse and the General Rock, said to resemble a military officer wearing a steel helmet.

Green Island Lighthouse

The Green Island Lighthouse is a beautiful white tower located in the island’s northwest corner close to Bitou Cape. It was a gift from the United States after the SS President Hoover liner hit a reef off the island and was grounded in 1937. Locals rescued the stranded passengers, and a year later, as an act of gratitude, the U.S. donated the funds to build the original lighthouse. The current lighthouse, built in 1948 after the original was destroyed in WWII, stands at just over 33m in height, and is reached by ascending a 150-step staircase. The lighthouse offers a 360-degree-view of Green Island. From March through May the area in front of the lighthouse transforms into blossoming fields of wild lilies. Close by is Wuyouku, a beach area with a large pool of saltwater that appears at low tide, teeming with sea creatures.

Green Island Human Rights Culture Park and General Rock

In 1949, toward the end of the Chinese Civil War, a period of martial law was declared in Taiwan that was to last until 1987. Under Kuomintang (KMT; a.k.a. Chinese Nationalist Party) rule, many political dissidents were imprisoned in a facility on Green Island. In 2001, the Green Island Human Rights Culture Park was built to commemorate political prisoners oppressed during the martial law period, a time in Taiwan’s history known as the “White Terror.” Part of this 25ha park is the Human Rights Monument, which has a long, descending wall on which former prisoners’ names are inscribed. It leads to a circular structure formed by a series of pillars. Built by a Taiwanese architect, this monument symbolizes freedom, democracy, and human rights, and was the first human-rights monument built in Asia.

The General Rock is a nearby coast-side landmark that’s hard to miss from the park. The unique rock formation gets its name from its resemblance to a military officer wearing a steel helmet.

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[Note: Swimming in natural pools in the Youzihu area only with certified guide]

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Youzihu and Wangong Cave

Youzihu is an abandoned fishing village on the east coast of the island. The village played an important role in the island’s early development. In fact, relics from the village area have provided archaeologists with rich information about the island’s history stretching back to prehistoric times. Today, you can still see remnants of some of the abandoned stone houses.

The scenery surrounding Youzihu has an out-of-this-world feel. One of the natural attractions is the Wangong Cave (also known as Wangong Arch), accessible via a dirt path. Created by sea erosion, this is a popular spot to take photos. There is also much else to see in the area, including natural pools filled with clear water, interestingly shaped giant rocks, and even a secluded waterfall. You might even spot goats climbing on steep rock faces, a scene more common on Orchid Island (Lanyu) to the southeast of Green Island.

NATURAL ART The rugged coast of the island is a wonderful geological playground with endless opportunities to take stunning photos.

Shilang Beach

Green Island, with its pristine blue waters and rich untouched marine environment, is an extremely popular place for snorkeling and scuba diving. Visibility is often 30m or more, and water temperatures are above 20 degrees Celsius throughout the year.

Well-preserved coral reefs, tropical fish, sea turtles, and sometimes even sharks make Green Island a diver’s paradise. Visitors can choose from numerous quality outlets on the island to rent gear, take diving courses, and even get certified.

Shore diving on Green Island is quite convenient. One popular place is Shilang, notable for its picturesque walkway, which allows you to walk from the white coral-stone beach to the deeper water.

Here you can also find the world’s deepest underwater mailbox.

This seahorse-shaped mailbox, resembling the rare pygmy seahorse found in Green Island’s waters, is 11m under the surface. Special underwater postcards can be purchased at local dive shops, which after being dropped in the mailbox are collected once a week by a diving postman.

Photo courtesy of East Coast National Scenic Area

FUN BY AND IN THE WATER A summer vacation destination on the sea, Green Island is known for its white coral beaches and its many excellent snorkeling and diving sites.

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Slow Island Hostel

Green Island is best explored on motor scooter, and is especially attractive to young backpack travelers who travel light and seek adventure.

You won’t need much luggage to vacation on this little piece of paradise, and the island has many choices when it comes to backpacker hostels.

One such place is the Slow Island Hostel, located just 650m from Na nliao Fishing Harbor, where most visitors arrive via ferry. As the name implies, this backpacker hostel emits a laid-back, worry-free vibe. It has an outdoor lounge and garden area with hammocks, patio tables, and even fitness equipment, yoga mats, and board games.

The hostel was founded by a well-tanned young man from Keelung, a port city near Taipei. He left the north and headed down to the southeast with a dream of opening a restaurant on Orchid Island, Green Island’s tropical-paradise neighbor, but chose this paradise instead.

The hostel is an ideal choice for those on a budget, with small, basic shared bunkbed rooms sleeping four to nine people. Families and couples who want privacy can choose a private room.

Mr. Hot Dog

Across the street from the Slow Island Hostel is Mr. Hot Dog, a restaurant run by the same owner as the hostel. This American-themed restaurant serves yummy burgers, quesadillas, brick oven pizza, and island-inspired cocktails made with Taiwanese liquors. Equipped with a full bar, the trained bartenders craft creative handmade concoctions. Colored ice shavings and LED lights give the drinks a dramatic touch. In the restaurant’s hand-built oven, across from the bar, delicious pizzas are made.

The hostel/restaura nt owner is ver y much involved in t he restaura nt’s dayto-day operations, and shares his passion for c o ok i n g. He e ven i nvente d one of the restaurant’s unique spaghetti dishes, topped with f lying-fish caviar. Fried bar bites like French fries and chicken wings, as well as salads and vegetarian dishes, are on the restaurant’s extensive menu as well.

Customers are treated like family by the friendly Mr. Hot Dog staff. Each employee’s Instagram account is shared on a beautifully decorated chalkboard, and customers are encouraged to befriend each worker and add them on social media as a new friend.

HOT FOOD Pizzas, spaghetti, cocktails.... Mr. Hot Dog serves yummy pub grub in a relaxed setting. The pizzas are especially recommended.

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TAKE IT SLOW Slow Island encourages you to relax and chill on this worryfree island. The hostel is ideal for backpacking tourists who look for affordable accommodation and want to take it easy.

SLOW ISLAND HOSTEL ( 綠島緩島旅宿 ) No. 110-1, Nanliao Village, Ludao Township, Taitung County ( 綠島鄉南寮村 110 之 1 號 ) www.facebook.com/slowislandhostel MR. HOT DOG ( 哈狗店 ) No. 103, Nanliao Village, Ludao Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣綠島鄉南寮村 103 號 ) www.facebook.com/gimrhotdog

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Green Island Sika Deer Store

The sika deer is a spotted, fawn-colored deer that closely resembles the animal from the beloved Disney classic Bambi. Although not native to Green Island, this species of deer for a time outnumbered the island’s human residents after some were brought over in the 1970s to be raised for their antlers.

Conservation efforts are now in place to protect the deer, including the government-operated Sika Deer Ecological Park, located along a minor road in the hills south of the human rights park.

The sika deer is revered on the island by locals, including the owner of the Green Island Sika Deer Store. Hailing from the Taiwan mainland, he came to Green Island 13 years ago on a working holiday, fell in love with the place, and has been there ever since. His cute Disney-like wood hut souvenir shop – complete with a large sika deer figure mounted on the roof – was originally located in the south of the island. It can now be found close to the island’s airport in the northwest. He sells sika deer-themed items, including hand-painted postcards, magnets, stuffed animals and, most famously, delicious sika deer-shaped egg cakes.

Ice Jail

Beyond its political prisoners, Green Island’s prison was once known for housing some of Taiwan’s most notorious criminals. As such, it’s not uncommon to find prison-themed establishments that mimic the island’s infamous landmark. One such shop is the Ice Jail, the interior of which is decorated with prison bars and mock-up jail cells. The shop serves traditional Taiwanese shaved-ice treats, with some island-unique toppings. The best-known creation consists of shaved ice topped with seaweed, fresh pineapple, pink and yellow chewy pearls made from cornstarch, seaweed mochi balls (only available in the summer), and condensed milk. All of the ice dishes are served in simple silver bowls to replicate a prisoner’s meal.

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ORIGINALITY Ever had shaved ice in a jail cell? Ever tried egg cakes in the shape of a sika deer? Green Island brings out the best in creative and innovative restaurant and shop owners.

GREEN ISLAND SIKA DEER STORE ( 梅花鹿專賣店 ) No. 205-1, Nanliao Village, Ludao Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣綠島鄉南寮村 205-1 號 ) www.facebook.com/SikaDeerStore ICE JAIL ( 冰獄 ) No. 48, Yugang, Nanliao Village, Ludao Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣綠島鄉南寮村漁港 48 號 ) www.facebook.com/icejail1020 GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND Green Island is accessible via ferry or airplane. There are three flights a day from Taitung Airpor t (return ticket is NT$2,100). There are several boat services a day from Fugang Harbor, near Taitung City (return ticket is NT$1,100). Scooters are the most convenient way to get around the island; a valid license is required for rentals (rental fee is NT$400 per day).

Find more information on the East Coast National Scenic Area website www.eastcoast-nsa.gov.tw and the Taitung Tourism Bureau's website: tour.taitung.gov.tw/en/traffic/island.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Bitou Cape 鼻頭角 General Rock 將軍岩 Green Island Human Rights Culture Park 綠島人權公園 Green Island Lighthouse 綠島燈塔 Haishenping 海蔘坪 Little Great Wall 綠島小長城 Nanliao Fishing Harbor 南寮漁港 Orchid Island 蘭嶼 Pekingese Dog 哈巴狗岩 Human Rights Monument 人權紀念碑 Shilang 石朗 Sika Deer Ecological Park 梅花鹿生態園區 Sleeping Beauty 睡美人岩 Wangong Cave 彎弓洞 Wuyouku 烏油窟 Youzihu 柚子湖 Zhaori Hot Springs 朝日溫泉

E XPLORE

Xiao Liuqiu TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE

8 Village Resort

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Coral Island Gem Off the Southwest Coast

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Vase Rock

Lingshan Temple

Beauty Cave

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Wild Boar Trench

MAP V I S ION

A n o t h e r h i gh l y p o p u l a r to u r i s t- i s l a n d destination, Xiao Liuqiu (Little Liuqiu), is located just off the southwest coast in the Taiwan Strait.

Whereas Green Island was formed by undersea volcanic activity, Xiao Liuqiu is a massive Black Devil Cave agglomeration of upraised coral.

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White Lighthouse

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iao Liuqiu is a little easier to get to than Green Island, and thus tends to be busier, attracting groups of day-trippers and overnighters. Within easy sight of the mainland coast, it’s just a 25-minute fast-ferry ride from the port of Donggang. There is also a greater range of guesthouse accommodations.

Though made almost entirely of coral, Xiao Liuqiu is far from flat.

It has a whimsical theatrical-set population of imaginatively named rock formations that includes Wild Boar Trench, Vase Rock, and Beauty Cave, along with such other attractions as the Lingshan Temple, White Lighthouse, and Black Devil Cave.

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Many would say that without playing on or in the local waters you cannot rightfully claim to have “done Liuqiu.” Its warm surrounding waters make water-sporting outings a pleasure. A nd its pristine environment makes its eco-tour excursions a pleasure as well – its rocky, uneven intertidal foreshore and its shallow inshore waters teem with subtropical sea creatures, of color, shape, and behavior that dazzle and delight.

There are many guide/rental enterprises at the ready, and two or three days on the island gives you a chance to experience all, including guided coral-reef diving and snorkeling, glass-bottom boat tours, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, and guided intertidal-zone eco-tours. Discover Lamay (discoverlamy.com; Chinese) is among the most highly recommended operators.

Island of Simplicity, Living in Luxury There is a wide selection of what are loosely called “guesthouses,” which range from true B&Bs/homestays to purpose-built inns and small resorts. A mong the most popular choices is the 8 Village Resort (8v.com.tw; Chinese), a complex of eight two-story buildings built in the style of Mediterranean villas, all painted in dramatically different bright colors. Four face an open sloping grassland, with full exposure to the Taiwan Strait and Xiao Liuqiu’s fabulous sunsets.

Among the amenities are outdoor swimming and spa pools, sauna, a game room, and breakfast.

Your kick-back coral-island days are enlivened with Xiao Liuqiu’s very own Captain Beer (www.captainbeer.com.tw; Chinese) beverages.

Try the canned draft beer and lighter fruity beer. There’s also seasonal limited-edition English Pale Ale and German Lager brews.

Reminder: Please drink responsibly.

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Diving, Snorkeling, and Other Water Fun Activities

SMALL ISLAND, BIG FUN Spend a few sundrenched days on Xiao Liuqiu engaging in water fun activities, meeting sea turtles, and trying the island's own beer brand.

GETTING THERE & AROUND From Kaohsiung's Zuoying High Speed Rail Station, take the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle service (www.taiwantrip.com.tw ) Kenting Express Line bus to Dapeng Bay. The Dapeng Bay NSA website (www.dbnsa.gov.tw ) has details on this, the Donggang-Liuqiu ferry service, island scooter and shuttle-bus rentals, and other related matters.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Beauty Cave 美人洞 Black Devil Cave 烏鬼洞 Captain Beer 卡布敦啤酒 Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area 大鵬灣國家風景區 Donggang 東港

8 Village Resort 小琉球八村旅店 Lingshan Temple 靈山寺 Vase Rock 花瓶岩 White Lighthouse 白燈塔 Wild Boar Trench 山豬溝 Xiao Liuqiu 小琉球 TR AVEL I N TAIWAN

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TA IT U NG / D ONGHE TOW NSHIP

s y a D w e F a r o At Let CaoassttIdfyll – Donghe Township Eas

TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE

PHOTOS AS K A CHI , V I S ION

The Donghe Township experience: A little surfin’, a little beach action, a little sunrise watchin’, a little café loungin’, a little outdoor live-music listenin’, a little indigenous-culture and Taiwan heritage explorin’, a little indigenous arts and crafts shoppin’, a little barbecuin’, and a whole lotta kickin’ back.

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o get a picture of Donghe Township, on Taiwan’s East Coast in Taitung County, think of a slice of mountain-backstopped Hawaii coast transported to the Far East. The township has become a little bit of a Bohemian Mini United Nations over the past two decades. You’ll come across open-faced pizza joints, bakeries, and guesthouses run by Western expatriate refugees from Taiwan’s big cities. Cafés, surf shops, and guesthouses are often run by members of the local indigenous tribes. In addition, you’ll likely see groups of young Japanese, all decked out in surfer dude paraphernalia, heading out to and back from “surfari” expeditions hunting down the best waves. And of course Han Taiwanese are involved in all of the above. This is a superb getaway destination if you’ve a need to escape the busy urban world.

WHERE THEY SURF If you want to find out where the best surfing is happening in Taiwan, head to Taitung's Dulan and Jinzun areas, places with nice beaches, great waves, and awesome people.

The Surfing Scene Surfing has become more popular in Taiwan over the past two decades, and Taitung County has emerged as the place to go, with Donghe in turn emerging as surf-central. The township is today home to a number of surf guesthouses (see below).

The Doulan Surf Shop, beside coastal Highway 11 in the village of Dulan (often spelled “Doulan” on local signage), provides surfing lessons (beginner through advanced), board sales and rentals, sales of other surfing gear, board repair, and surf tour services. It is run by a friendly husband-and-wife team, both refugees from big city life. He is originally from Taipei, and “used to be very white-skinned,” and she is a local Taitung indigenous lass who decided to get back to her roots after a spell in the skies as a flight attendant.

The prime location for catching the waves is at Jinzun, just south of Donghe village. The surfing beach is immediately to the north of Jinzun Fishing Harbor. Just to the harbor’s south is the Jinzun Recreation Area beach, on a lovely 2km-long bay, reached from a highway-side parking lot via a well-built 200m-long wood staircase. The steps take you down through tree cover alive with foraging macaques, feeding tongue-missile lizards, and other wild things. Beside the parking lot is the breezy Jinzun Café, its comfy roofed deck a lovely location for ocean viewing. There’s a small menu of coffees, teas, refreshing local-fruit juices, and Western-style baked goodies.

The parking-lot area is also one of the township’s prime sunriseviewing spots.

Taiwan’s biggest annual surfing event is staged at Jinzun.

The Taiwan Open of Surfing (www.taiwanopenofsurfing.org), which draws top-tier names from around the globe, is integrated with the elite Asian Surfing Championships Tour. The ASC rating for Taitung’s surfing environment is 4 stars out of 6.

Xindong Sugar Factory Culture Park Dulan’s main attraction is the Xindong Sugar Factory Culture Park.

The park’s sprawling heritage complex of cement-wall buildings was built by the Japanese during their 1895~1945 period of Taiwan colonial rule. Operations ceased in 1991, and today’s attraction is a thriving center for cultural-creative ventures. It is located right beside the coastal highway.

Both local and expatriate artists and craftspeople make use of this oasis of imagination. There are artist workshops and showrooms, with frequent special exhibits, an artsy guesthouse, cultural-creative boutiques, a café, small Taiwanese and Japanese eateries, a quick-food kiosk, and a large driftwood stage. The big stage-area action happens Saturday nights, with free live-music sessions and sometimes dances held. The entertainers include both local and expatriate talent, and sometimes groups from regional countries.

The folksy Good Buy Dulan Shop is in a former administrationoffice building. Despite its cozy size, a splendid range of goods is stocked, notably handicrafts from 80-plus indigenous artists and craftsworkers, 70% created locally. Choices include such works as indigenous-theme bags with striking embroidery and glass-bead decoration, and hats and apparel made in traditional style from bark (surprisingly soft).

DOULAN SURF SHOP ( 都蘭衝浪店 ) 0980-000-476 No. 459-2, Dulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣東河鄉都蘭村 459-2 號 ) www.facebook.com/doulansurfshop GOOD BUY DULAN SHOP ( 都蘭好的擺手創藝術小店 ) (08) 953-1702 No. 61-1, Dulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣東河鄉都蘭村 61-1 號 ) www.facebook.com/goodbuyDulan/

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TA IT U NG / D ONGHE TOW NSHIP Photo courtesy of Goof Tone Music (indigenous artist Yogu Walis performing at 32 Coffee)

32 Coffee The rustic-yet-urbane 32 Coffee is located on one of Dulan’s sleepy side streets, on higher ground toward the rear of the village; i.e., on the mountain side. The café sits on a grassy lawn, with views of both mountain and ocean. The structure is a bamboo-walled thatch hut built in primeval Amis-tribe style by the young Amis proprietor with the help of village elders. Enjoy savory indigenous fare, silky hand-drip specialty coffees, and fresh-baked Western desserts (3-day advance booking required for dining).

Dulan Big Yard Barbecue Taitung’s pristine fresh air will invigorate your spirit, and most definitely will invigorate your appetite. When out in the country there’s nothing better than sitting down to a good barbecue, and in Donghe Township there’s perhaps no more appetizing place to do so than the Dulan Big Yard Barbecue. It’s located beside the coastal highway diagonally across from the sugar factory complex.

This is an outdoor party place. Entering through the tall gate, you see that you’ve indeed entered a very “big yard.” In the foreground, amidst a grove of shade trees, is this operation’s BBQ-restaurant area. A wooden openfaced hut that looks like a crab shack you might come across by a Louisiana bayou stands amidst the trees.

Order at the counter, then await delivery at one of the alfresco tables, or choose one of the tables in the large open-sided tent. The atmosphere is especially appealing at night, under twinkling stars, when the white lights liberally strung between the trees come on, generating a festive mood.

The menu is extensive (with English provided), displaying much that will make both surf-lovers and turf-lovers happy. Note that it is the seafood selections that most excite the palates of most Asian diners. There are surf/turf options that will be more familiar to BBQ aficionados from Western lands, such as short ribs, chicken thigh, sausage, and salmon steak, but make good use of the opportunity to try delicacies that make the eyes of Taiwan BBQ devotees water with joy, such as snapper chin, salmon belly, salted pork belly, pork intestine, and pork neck. And of course, the ice-cold draft beer and Japanese sake that flows from the order shack helps the food go down even better, and spirits soar even higher.

32 COFFEE (32 鄰咖啡 ) 0973-463-097 No. 274, Neighborhood 32, Dulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County (台東縣東河鄉都蘭村 32 鄰 274 號 ) www.facebook.com/32.coffee/ DULAN BIG YARD BARBECUE ( 都蘭院子大 BBQ 海鮮燒烤 ) 0938-529-681 No. 40-2, Dulan, Donghe Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣東河鄉都蘭 40-2 號 ) www.facebook.com/smashing1126/

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IN THE EVENING After a day chasing the waves, Dulan gives you quite a few options to replenish your energy with good food and music entertainment.

TA IT U NG / D ONGHE TOW NSHIP

Low Pressure Guest House East Coast tourist numbers have increased in recent years as a result of better train service (more and faster trains) and easier driving (mountain tunneling in southern Yilan County/northern Hualien County to quicken and safen the coastal-highway drive from the north). The number of guesthouses has concomitantly also bloomed.

Most have a very distinctive character, ref lecting the eclectic personalities of their owner-operators. The Low Pressure Surf & Guesthouse is a wonderful – and extremely popular – example. The owner-couple are self-described “surf bums-cum-entrepreneurs.” She is a member of the Bunun tribe, he a transplanted Japanese.

Located in Donghe village just off and visible from Highway 11, it opened in 2007, the village’s first guesthouse. A laid-back, funky spot, it’s made of three separate houses, one an original home now transformed, the other two purpose-built for guesthouse use. The husband provides guide services for surfing outings and teaches beginner classes (fees for both); full gear is available for rent or purchase. The simple guestrooms are tastefully designed and furnished, and the original building has an irresistible open-air bar/ café patio with a street-facing counter. The delicious menu is Westerntheme heavy, but two recommended local-theme meals are the BBQ Pork Aboriginal Set Meal and BBQ Mackerel Aboriginal Set Meal.

Low Pressure Guest House Jinzun Fishing Harbor Jinzun Recreation Area

Taiwan 11

WHERE THE SURF BUMS CRASH What could be a better place to stay for surfers than a "low pressure" hostel run by fellow surfers?

32 Coffee Good Buy Dulan Shop

Doulan Surf Shop Xindong Sugar Factory Culture Park Dulan Big Yard Barbecue

LOW PRESSURE GUEST HOUSE ( 熱帶低氣壓衝浪民宿 ) (089) 896-738 No. 108, Nan Donghe, Donghe Township, Taitung County ( 台東縣東河鄉南東河 108 號 ) www.easttaiwan-surf.com/ GETTING TO/AROUND TAITUNG There are daily Taipei-Taitung flights and regular train runs to/ from Taipei and Kaohsiung, including express trains. A cluster of Taiwan Tourism Bureau-vetted car/scooter rental outfits are located around the Taitung airport and train station; visit the Tourism Bureau website (www.taiwan.net.tw). For those not self-driving, check out the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle service's East Coast Line (www.taiwantrip.com.tw).

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Amis tribe 阿美族 Bunun tribe 布農族 Donghe Township 東河鄉 Dulan 都蘭 Jinzun Café 金樽咖啡 Jinzun Fishing Harbor 金樽漁港 Jinzun Recreation Area 金樽遊憩區 Taiwan Open of Surfing 臺灣國際衝浪公開賽 Xindong Sugar Factory Culture Park 新東糖廠文化園區

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Red Maple Leaves

and Much More...

The Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area in Central Taiwan TE X T OWA IN MCK IMM

PHOTOS S HOU YA SONG

Though one of Taiwan's lesser-visited national forest recreation areas – particularly compared with tourist favorites like Alishan and Taipingshan – Aowanda is certainly no less lovely nor less abundant in its ecological offerings than its more popular counterparts.

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E A S Y SCENIC TR A IL S / AOWA NDA

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ituated deep in the center of the island, at the western edge of Taiwan's Central Mountain Range, Aowanda is at its most splendid between late fall and early spring, when the vast forest of maple, Formosan sweet gum, beech, and oak turns from green to russet and the blooming cherry trees daub the deep red swathes of autumn foliage with vibrant bursts of white, puce, and pink. And while it may be at its aesthetic height during the winter months, Aowanda has plenty to merit a visit in other seasons, too. Its size (almost 3,000ha), topography (a series of densely forested terraces and valleys that range between 1,100m and 2,600m above sea level), and location at the confluence of six different rivers ensure a wide range of biodiversity that includes hundreds of species of birds, butterflies, fireflies, and mountain mammals. This fecundity of wildlife, which made the area a prime hunting ground for members of Taiwan's indigenous Atayal, Bunun, and Seediq tribes in the not-too-distant past, today makes Aowanda a prime location for birdwatchers and nature lovers.

Central Area Entry to the recreation area (open daily 8am~5pm) costs NT$200 (with concessions for weekday entry, children, students, and the elderly), and the roughly 5km worth of trails can be comfortably explored over the course of a long afternoon – though a whole day could be spent here making a thorough survey of all the park’s points of interest.

A short walk from the slightly barebones Visitor Center – where you can pick up a trail map –you’ll find the Nature Education Center, which has excellent information in both English and Chinese about the flora and fauna that call the park home. Beyond the education center is the Cherry Garden Trail, awash in pastel hues in the winter months and verdant with pea-green foliage the rest of the year, overlooking a grassy meadow that would look quite at home in the musical drama film The Sound of Music if it weren’t for the jadeite-hue backdrop of the forested river gorge standing in for Alpine peaks.

Nearby, tucked into a shady glade is the Ecological Pond, which creates a similarly European-character illusion, resembling – even down to the Japanese-style footbridge that spans the pond – a scene from Monet's Water Lilies series. From April to June, however, as evening falls the pond relinquishes its air of tranquility to the thrumming of mating frogs and the f lashing bioluminescence of courting fireflies.

CLOSE TO NATURE The main thing to do in Aowanda is experience nature on long forest walks.

Eastern Trails Walking in the direction of the park ’s eastern reaches, you'll first need to descend the Strongman’s Slope – a steep series of wooden steps that takes you from the upper river terrace down 100m to the alluvial plain below. From here you can follow the Maple Forest Walk adjacent to the riverbed, with sweeping views of the rising river valley, or the Bird-watching Trail through the dense inner forest, where you'll be able to spot members of some of Aowanda’s 120-plus bird species, including the endemic Formosan blue magpie, also known as the “long-tailed mountain lady” in Chinese, and the Taiwan

HIGH UP Aowanda Suspension Bridge is a whopping 90 meters above a riverbed.

barbet, identifiable by its varicolored feathers and distinctive warble.

Along these trails, encounters with members of some of Aowa nd a’s 209 butterfly species, which dine on the forest’s many beech and mulberry mistletoe trees, and Taiwanese macaques, which shuff le through the canopy and seem to have as much fun observing you as you do them, are near certainties. Both trails will eventually lead you to the Bird-watching Platform, where you are gifted with an extraordinary view of Aowanda’s main arboreal attraction – the Pure Chinese Sweet Gum Forest.

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Located at the confluence of the North River and South River as they become the Wanda River, this gathering of sweet gum specimens (brilliantly scarlet come winter) juts out into the riverbed of this newly formed waterway like the prow of a great ship, bravely pushing into the silt deposited on the plain by successive typhoons. On the terrace above the sweet gum forest lies the park’s easternmost point – the Pine Tree Zone, a forest of Taiwan red pines where the floor is blanketed each year with copper-colored pine needles.

To reach the Pine Tree Zone, visitors must first cross the imposing Aowanda Suspension Bridge, which spans the 180m expanse across the gorge. Built to replace a bridge destroyed in 2007 by Typhoon Sepat, the Aowanda Suspension Bridge is certainly not for those fearful of heights – the 90m drop to the riverbed below being enough to make even the calmest of heads spin. Nonetheless, those who do brave the crossing will be amply rewarded with some truly spectacular views of the North River valley as the waterway sweeps down to meet the South River, as well as an eagle’s eye view of the aforementioned sweet gum forest.

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FIERY RED The best time to visit Aowanda is when the maple leaves turn a strong red.

Food

After retracing your steps to the center of the recreation area, a hearty lunch can be taken at the Red Resort Village Restaurant, located in a rustic clapboard building, which serves the kind of classic Taiwanese fare typically found in local rechao or “hot fry” restaurants – braised pork belly with pickled vegetables, sautéed greens and mushrooms, deep-fried stream fish, braised tofu, chicken fried with scallions, and other similarly moreish dishes. You can order a-la-carte or choose one of several set menus designed for groups of up of ten people. Prices range from NT$180 for a single-person light set meal to NT$3,000 for a ten-person set meal containing nine different dishes.

HEARTY The food served in the Red Resort Village Restaurant is of the hot fry variety.

Photo courtesy of Forestry Bureau

E A S Y SCENIC TR A IL S / AOWA NDA

FLYING WATERS Aowanda has some pretty waterfalls too

RUSTIC The logical choice for a stay in a forest recreation area: a wood cabin.

Western Trails

GETTING THERE / MORE INFO If self-driving, Aowanda is roughly 3.5 hours from Taipei City, and less than 2 hours from central Taichung City. Take Freeway 3 to Taichung, then Freeway 6 eastwards to Puli. There, transfer onto Provincial Highway 14 (towards Qingjing Farm). After approximately 30km, turn right onto Da'an Road (Nantou Road 83). After passing the large Wanda Reservoir on your left, turn left as Da'an Road merges into Gaoping Road, and then follow the road to the park's toll booth.

Shorter than the eastern trails, the paths in the western section of the recreation area take you first past the Retention Basin (built in the late 1950s, and recently reactivated to supply the nearby Wanta Hydro Power Plant with extra water in times of peak energy consumption). In the summer, Pacific swifts, swallows, and Asian house martins hunt water-dwelling bugs in the basin while performing effortless aerial acrobatics.

From the basin you can take a trail uphill to a series of picturesque waterfalls (most impressive during the flood season between April and September). The tallest of these, known as the Flying Waterfall, drops 48m and is said to be a potent source of anions – negatively charged particles produced by the friction between the falling water and the air that, according to some sources, have beneficial effects on mood and human health.

Accommodation For those wanting to stay in the recreation area overnight, accommodation is available in one of the park’s two villas – the Red Resort Village and the Green Resort Village – or in one of several wooden cabins set back amongst the maple and cherry blossom trees in the park’s central area. Rooms are simple, but pleasantly rustic, and staying in the park after hours will allow you to experience the area’s crepuscular and nocturnal wildlife (particularly desirable during the firefly season).

Rates range from NT$1,500 per night for a weekday stay in a two-person room at the Red Resort Village to NT$6,400 per night for a weekend stay in a six-person wooden cabin. Rooms can be booked online at awdonline.forest.gov.tw (Chinese).

Alternatively, plenty of accommodation options can be found in the Qingjing Farm area, about an hour’s drive to the north, or in Puli Township, about an hour’s drive to the west.

Public transport: Between October 1 and March 31 each year, the Nantou Bus Company runs a weekend shuttle-bus service to Aowanda from the Taichung High Speed Rail (HSR) Station, with stops at the Taichung Railway Station and the Puli Bus Station. Tickets can be booked by phone up to two weeks in advance by calling (049) 298-4031, ext. 23.

For detailed information, visit www.ntbus.com.tw/bstour.html (Chinese).

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Aowanda National Forest Recreation Area 奧萬大國家森林遊樂區 Aowanda Suspension Bridge 奧萬大吊橋 Bird-watching Platform 賞鳥平台 Bird-watching Trail 賞鳥步道 Cherry Garden Trail 櫻花園步道 Ecological Pond 生態池 Flying Waterfall 飛瀑 Green Resort Village 綠野山莊 Long-tailed mountain lady 長尾山娘 Maple Forest Trail 楓林步道 Nature Education Center 自然教育中心 North River 北溪 Pine Tree Zone 松林區 Pure Sweet Gum Forest 楓香林 rechao 熱炒 Red Resort Village 楓紅山莊 Red Resort Village Restaurant 楓紅山莊餐廳 Retention Basin 調整池 South River 南溪 Strongman's Slope 好漢坡 Wanda River 萬大溪

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FU N TR IP PL A N / K ENTING

The Sunlight and Other Highlights

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Kenting

A Q uick Tour of Southern Taiwan’s Tropical Playground TE X T STE V E N CROOK

PHOTOS V I S ION

Taiwan’s population and industries are concentrated in the north, so perhaps it’s no surprise that when the government marked out the boundaries of the country’s first national park back in 1982, it did so in the southernmost part of the island.

Kenting National Park covers a relatively modest 181km2 of land and 152km2 of ocean — but if it lacks anything in size, it makes up for it in sheer diversity.

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FU N TR IP PL A N / K ENTING

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ome of the millions of visitors the park receives each year come in search of beachbased hedonism. The loca l equiva lent of F lor id a’s s pr i n g-bre a k e r s , t he y ’re accompanied by equally strong contingents of birdwatchers and other ecotourists, watersport enthusiasts, and families with young children.

The Kenting (Kending)* National Park, covering the southernmost part of the Hengchun Peninsula, is within day-tripping distance of Kaohsiung, the big harbor city of the southwest. If this is your launch-point and you have 48 or more hours and your own vehicle, you’ll be able to hit most of the park’s highlights. * Both spellings can be found in different place names, on signboards, etc. in the area. In this article “Kenting” refers to the national park.

A Swing Through Taiwan’s M ost Popular N ational Park

SUMMER VIBE Kenting is Taiwan's tropical paradise, with strong sunshine and blue skies galore.

If you’re coming from Kaohsiung, it makes sense to detour off Provincial Highway 26 near the National Museum of Marine Biology & Aquarium and proceed southward on the much quieter coastal road (County Road 153).

Those with an interest in snorkeling want to stop at Wanlitong village, where there’s a sandy beach and protected reefs. If you don’t have snorkeling equipment with you, rent what you need from one of the village shops. There’s yet another appealing beach and even more watersport fun 8km further south at Baisha Bay (“White Sand Bay”).

If you look at a map, you’ll notice that the Kenting area features two prominent peninsulas on its south side, and that the tip of the westerly headland is called Maobitou. Dangerously jagged rocks dominate the scenery here – don’t even try to get close to the water. Those with an interest in geology will find the bilingual information panels well worth a read.

Following the coast northeast from Maobitou will lead you straight to South Bay. There are numerous places to sleep or eat here, many of them just a few minutes’ walk from the 600m-long sandy beach.

Passing the national park headquarters, and then the stretch of Kending Road (Provincial Highway 26) that’s both the busiest part of party-central Kending Village and the gateway to inland attractions such as the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, brings you to Eluanbi, Kenting’s second peninsula.

Remember the nasty rocks you saw at Maobitou? After a series of shipwrecks along the coast, the authorities decided in the early 1880s to build a 21m-high lighthouse within a few hundred meters of Taiwan’s southernmost dry land.

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CULTURAL AND CULINARY DELIGHTS Kenting and the Hengchun Peninsula have more to offer than just beaches. Make sure to explore the historic sites and the culinary scene as well.

Eat, D rink, and B e M e rr y!

There was just one problem. The local Paiwan indigenous people were violently opposed to the plan – hence the defensive wall and cannon emplacements you can still see today. Within a few years, fortunately, the Paiwan had been won over, thanks in part to a British lighthousekeeper who took the time to learn their language and understand their customs.

If you’d like to get away from your fellow tourists, head northward from here along the rugged east coast. One of this writer’s favorite spots is a five-minute drive northwest of Eluanbi. Longpan Park is a windswept expanse of grasslands and cliffs. Because of the near-constant winds blowing in from the Pacific, trees can’t grow here – so hold on to your hat!

Forces of erosion have bestowed on the Jialeshui Scenic Area, 10km further up the road, an extraordinary selection of wind- and wave-sculpted rocks. Look carefully and you’ll spot boulders that resemble various animals or human features.

Rather than returning to the west coast via the Provincial Highway, consider taking County Road 200A and then County Road 200 through the hilly interior to the historic town of Hengchun.

One of Hengchun’s chief claims to fame is that it has Taiwan’s best-preserved defensive wall. A ll four of the original gates, and just over half of the 2.7km-long wall, have survived such threats as road-widening projects and natural disasters. Amazingly, rather than using cement, the bricks and stones were glued together with a blend of lime, sugar, and glutinous rice.

Kending-bound buses pass right by the South Gate. If you decide to stop for an hour or two in this charming little town, get yourself to the East Gate and spend some time on the top, appreciating the view inland.

Hengchun is one of just two places in Taiwan where “Ghost Month” (which in 2020 begins on August 19) is marked with pole-climbing rites called Qianggu (“grappling with orphaned ghosts”). The other location is Toucheng in Yilan County. The Hengchun event, officially named the Hengchun Pole Climb Festival, sees competitors racing up 23m-high heavily greased poles as they endeavor to snatch a winner’s flag that’s placed on top of a large raised platform before their rivals get to it.

The town is small enough to be explored on foot. If you find yourself working up a thirst, saunter over to the Hengchun 3000 Brewseum. An outpost of Taiwan’s growing craft-beer scene, this brewery/bar gets its name from the founder’s collection of beer mugs and glasses. All 3,000 of them are displayed on the wall in the tasting room, along with other beer-related memorabilia. But you came for the beer, right? So sit down and enjoy a creamy ale or a brown porter before resuming your tour.

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By now, it could be time for a proper meal. Thanks to the number of tourists passing through, and a cohort of big-city restaurateurs who’ve decided to relocate to the area, Kenting has one of Taiwan’s best dining scenes.

With a reputation for generous portions of delicious food, not to mention affordability, Kitchen Swell is a popular option in the very center of Hengchun. Specializing in oven-baked pizza and other Italian favorites, it’s housed in an 80-yearold two-floor structure that’s been remodeled so as to let in an abundance of natural light while preserving the best of the building’s original charm.

Just around the corner from Kitchen Swell, Café 1918 offers indoor and outdoor seating in what used to be a branch of a credit union. If you can read Chinese script, on seeing the café’s Chinese name you’ll immediately understand why the building in which the café is housed is designed to resemble a bank. It implies a credit association and is designed to convey a sense of trustworthiness and permanence. The “1918” in the English name is a strong clue as to its age.

Among the items decorating the interior are an antique movie projector and one of the credit union’s original safes. The menu comprises the hot and cold drinks you can find in any self-respecting café, reasonably priced snacks such as scallion pancake with egg and soup-filled dumplings, and a handful of set meals. Return customers rave about the roast pork curry.

Piccolo Polpo Italian Restaurant at South Bay is especially strong when it comes to seafood, but those who prefer land proteins will find plenty of options as well. If you arrive early, you might get a table from which you can look out to the sea.

Yet, however much you love the ocean, you’ll likely spend much more time focused on the expertly-presented food appearing on your table.

Piccolo Polpo’s risotto dishes come in for particular praise, as do the sakura shrimp battered fries. You’ve never heard of sakura shrimp? They’re little translucent pink crustaceans that thrive in just a few locations in Asia, including one in Taiwan.

The restaurant also has a good selection of wines from Europe and other places.

KITCHEN SWELL ( 波波廚房 ) (08) 889-6575 No. 88, Guangming Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮光明路 88 號 ) CAFÉ 1918 ( 恆春信用組合 ) (08) 888-3700 No. 155, Wenhua Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮文化路 155 號 ) www.facebook.com/Cafe1918/ PICCOLO POLPO ITALIAN RESTAURANT ( 迷路小章魚 ) (08) 888-2822 No. 60, Nanwan Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮南灣路 60 號 ) www.facebook.com/PiccoloPolpoBistro/

Kitchen Swell

Piccolo Polpo

CafĂŠ 1918

FU N TR IP PL A N / K ENTING

Chateau Beach Resort

Howard Beach Resort Kenting

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Howard Beach Resort Kenting

FU N TR IP PL A N / K ENTING

RELAXING RESORTS Kenting has a ton of accommodation options, among them two long-established hotel operations offering direct access to fine golden-sand beaches.

Resting Your We ar y H e ad A s one of Taiwan’s most popular tourist destinations, Kenting offers visitors a tremendous number and range of accommodation options, from luxurious resort-style hotels to homey B&Bs. For the budget-conscious, there are campsites and backpacker hostels.

Few of Kenting’s hotels are better known than the landmark Chateau Beach Resort. It isn’t merely on the ocean side of the main road – it is right on the sand, providing direct and exclusive access to a 2.8km-long stretch of pristine beach. Yet there’s no need to get into the ocean, as the hotel has three swimming pools for kids and a deeper pool for adults.

Many of the resort’s 295 guestrooms offer splendid sea views. Don’t despair if you can’t book an ocean-facing room, however – from many of those looking inland you can see Mt. Dajian and other natural features of the national park.

Three in-house restaurants serve Western, Chinese/ Taiwanese, and Japanese cuisine, respectively. As the sun sets, guests can sip cocktails at the beachside bar, or tuck into some barbecued delicacies. Fifteen minutes on foot to the east, in Kending Village, there are dozens of other eating options, including street food in the village night market.

As befits a hotel with a strong maritime focus, guests can borrow bodyboards (before they venture into the waves, firsttimers will be given some training by the on-site instructors) and rent kayaks (which, as you’d expect, come with lifejackets). It’s also possible to sign up for a 20-minute voyage on a Hobie sailboat, or a SUP session. What’s SUP? Standup paddleboarding – if you don’t want to paddle yourself, you can sit on the board and relax while a competent member of the staff does all the hard work!

Located on the other side of the village, which is Kenting’s busiest settlement, but also within striking distance of the action, the landmark Howard Beach Resort Kenting is a family-friendly institution. Among the 405 guestrooms are twin-bed attics with ocean views, superior rooms with garden views, and one- or two-bedroom villas with individual gardens, parking areas, and wading pools.

The large outdoor pool is excellent for swimming, or you can laze in the whirlpool. If you’d rather have a dip in the sea, all you need to do is walk for a couple of minutes to Little Bay Beach. There’s no need to cross the busy road; a pedestrian tunnel connecting hotel and beach goes under the highway.

If your kids still have energy to burn off, or it’s too rainy or hot to venture out, you’ll find plenty of activities and distractions in the games area. And there’s no danger of going hungry if you stay in the hotel. As well as an international buffet restaurant and Chinese/Taiwanese restaurant, there’s a lounge for when you fancy a coffee or a glass of wine at the end of a wonderful vacation day.

CHATEAU BEACH RESORT ( 墾丁夏都沙灘酒店 ) (08) 886-2222 No. 451, Kending Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮墾丁路 451 號 ) www.ktchateau.com.tw/ HOWARD BEACH RESORT KENTING ( 墾丁福華渡假飯店 ) (08) 886-2323 No. 2, Kending Rd., Hengchun Township, Pingtung County ( 屏東縣恆春鎮墾丁路 2 號 ) www.howard-kenting.com.tw/

GETTING THERE / MORE INFO Visitors who depend on public transportation should look into getting a Kenting Shuttle Bus Pass (www.klook.com/activity/554-kenting-bustransfers-kenting/ ), valid for one (NT$150) or two (NT$250) days. The color-coded shuttle bus network links the major sights, but services aren't frequent, so careful planning is needed.

Some regular bus services, such as the No. 8249 from Kaohsiung to the village of Shuiwaku via Eluanbi Lighthouse, are also useful.

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Baisha Bay 白沙灣 East Gate 東門 Eluanbi 鵝鑾鼻 Eluanbi Lighthouse 鵝鑾鼻燈塔 Ghost Month 鬼月 Hengchun 恆春 Hengchun 3000 Brewseum 恆春 3000 啤酒博物館 Hengchun Peninsula 恆春半島 Hengchun Pole Climb Festival 恆春古城國際豎孤棚觀光文化活動 Jialeshui Scenic Area 佳樂水風景區 Kending Road 墾丁路 Kenting National Forest Recreation Area 國家森林遊樂區 Kenting National Park 墾丁國家公園 Kenting Shuttle Bus Pass 墾丁街車一日券 Little Bay Beach 小灣海灘 Longpan Park 龍磐公園 Maobitou 貓鼻頭 Mt. Dajian 大尖山 National Museum of Marine Biology & Aquarium 國立海洋生物博物館 Paiwan tribe 排灣族 Qianggu 搶孤 Shuiwaku 水蛙窟 South Bay 南灣遊憩區 South Gate 南門 Wanlitong 萬里桐

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QU ICK CIT Y TOU R / TAOY UA N

N A U Y O A T

N O I S R U C X E Places to Visit Close to the International Airport

T

he Taoyuan Airport MRT line is the preferred choice of most tourists for getting from the airport to central Taipei and to the Taoyuan HSR Station. Note that there are two types of trains, Commuter and Express, the first stopping at every station on the line and the latter only operating between the airport and Taipei Main Station, with just a few stops on the way.

Taoyuan International Airport Observatories

1

There are numerous things to do at Taoyuan International Airport itself. In recent years the facilities, including the shop, restaurant, and other service areas, have been significantly upgraded. If you want to do some plane spotting, there are two outdoor observatories, one on the north and the other on the south side of the airport.

These new observatories, opened at the end of last year, are located on the 5th floor of Terminal 2. Hours are daily 6:30am~10:30pm, and admission is free. Apart from watching aircraft comings and goings from the outdoor decks, you can also buy souvenirs and dine in the adjacent indoor shop and food court areas.

TE X T & PHOTOS CHE N CHE NG - KUO, V I S ION

As a tourist visiting Taiwan, you are most likely to arrive by airplane and enter the country through Taoyuan International Airport. This airport is located to the northwest of central Taoyuan, a city that has been growing at a rapid pace in recent years. Take the Taoyuan Airport MRT line to its Taoyuan HSR Station stop and you’ll not only be presented with direct access to the High Speed Rail system but also to a brand-new cluster of shopping and entertainment facilities.

Photo courtesy of Taoyuan City Government

Gloria Outlets To Taoyuan International Airport & Gloria Outlets

Jingfu Temple

Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Taoyuan Station Store

1甲

FE21’ Far Eastern Dept. Store Taoyuan Branch

Taoyuan Railway Station 46

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2

Ta ke a me t ro t r a i n he ade d to Huanbei Station and get off at the Taoyuan HSR Station stop. From the metro station/HSR station it’s just a short walk to the Gloria Outlets mall, where you can go on a shopping spree for international luxury brand items. Apart from the shops, you’ll also find a range of fine restaurants serving international cuisine. Close to the mall are the HOTEL COZZI Qinqpu Taoyuan and a modern aquarium built by Yokohama Hakkeijima Sea Paradise (both places opening this year). www.gloriaoutlets.com, hotelcozzi.com

Namchow Tourist Factory

QU ICK CIT Y TO U R / TAOY UA N

Taoyuan Railway Station

3

Currently, there is no metro line connecting the airport with the Taoyuan Railway Station (a line is now being constructed, slated for completion in 2025/26). You can, however, take Airport Express Bus 706, which takes you straight to the heart of the bustling city.

There are two major department stores close to the station, the FE21’ Far Eastern Department Store Taoyuan Branch and the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Taoyuan Station Store, both offering excellent shopping and dining options. Beyond this, around the station you’ll also find a large number of stand-alone shops and eateries.

5

Taoyuan is well known for its many factories – when taking the metro to Taipei Main Station, as you travel along the elevated tracks you get good views of the city’s industrial areas. Located in central Taoyuan about a 20min walk southeast of the railway station, Namchow is open to visitors – one of many tourist factories around Taiwan. The company has a diverse palette of products, including edible oils, dairy products, f lour, rice, detergent supplies, and biotechnology products. Tourists can visit an exhibition hall, a memorial garden, and an ecological pond.

The company also offers a range of DIY experience classes during which you can learn about making soap, ice cream, pizza, and even xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings). www.namchow.com.tw

4

This is a small temple, about a 10min walk from the Taoyuan Railway Station along Zhongzheng Rd. It was first built in 1811, an attempt by the locals to fight frequent epidemics. Used to worship the deity Kai Zhang Sheng Wang (“Sacred Prince, Developer of Zhangzhou”), the temple has received numerous facelifts over the years, and has been listed by the Ministry of the Interior as a national historic site. Along the streets around the temple you’ll find a number of restaurants where you can sample typical Taiwan snack food specialties, such as oyster vermicelli, Hakka-style bantiao noodles, and beef noodles.

www.feds.com.tw, www.skm.com.tw

Namchow Tourist Factory

Jingfu Temple

1hr

01 Start

2hrs MRT 15min

02

2hrs Bus 50min

03

1hr Walk

10min

04

1hr Walk 30min

05

ENGLISH AND CHINESE FE21’ Far Eastern Dept. Store Taoyuan Branch 遠東百貨新概念店桃園店 Gloria Outlets 華泰名品城 Jingfu Temple 景福宮 Namchow Tourist Factory 南僑觀光工廠 Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Taoyuan Station Store 新光三越桃園站前店 xiaolongbao 小籠包

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CON V ENIENT TR AV EL

Taiwan Tour Bus website

KAOHSIUNG BY BUS Visiting Tourist Spots in the Harbor City TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

Kaohsiung, the third-largest city in Taiwan, is a popular tourist destination in the southwest. The urban core of the city, located on the coast, can be easily explored by using public transport. Options include the metro system, double-decker sightseeing bus outings, public rental bikes, cruise boat (Love River), and ferry (to Qijin).

If interested in an organized bus tour with guide, however, there is the following option.

O

n the Essence of Kaohsiung Harbor (One-Day Tour) guided bus tour, detailed on the Taiwan Tour Bus website (www.taiwantourbus.com.tw), you will be taken to some of Kaohsiung’s best tourist sites located at or close to the harbor.

QIJIN ISLAND

Long and narrow Qijin Island functions as a natural barrier protecting Kaohsiung Harbor. Ships enter the harbor through two narrow passageways, at the island’s north and south ends. Its tourist attractions are mostly close to the north tip, including the snow-white Qihou Lighthouse (built by the Japanese in 1916), Qihou Battery (dating from the 1870s), and Tianhou Temple (Kaohsiung’s oldest temple).

PIER-2 ART CENTER

This center of culture and art, located on the mainland right by the harbor, was established in numerous old, renovated harbor warehouses. Today they are venues for exhibitions, festival events, and live indoor and outdoor musical, theatrical, and busker performances. Outside you can see large-scale outdoor installation artworks and graffiti-style/3D murals, many wonderfully quirky and whimsical.

Essence of Kaohsiung Harbor (One-Day Tour) ( 港都山海精華之旅 ) www.taiwantourbus.com.tw/C/tour/us/essence-kaohsiung-harbor ITINERARY Gathering point → Qijin Island (Qihou Lighthouse, Qihou Battery, Star Tunnel, and Tianhou Temple) → Pier-2 Art Center → dinner → Golden Pineapple Castle (pineapple cake DIY) → Love River → Liuhe Night Market → End of tour FEE: NT$1,900 (NT$300 for children under the age 3); included in the fee: tour bus, English tour guide, tickets for ferry to Qijin and boat on Love River, pineapple DIY fee, insurance, and mineral water; night market food not included

VIGOR KOBO GOLDEN PINEAPPLE CASTLE

If you like pineapple cakes, one of the best sweet-pastry options to try in Taiwan, you will love this place. Vigor Kobo is a bakery chain that produces excellent pineapple cakes. During a visit to this branch you’ll not only have the chance to buy some of these and other sweet morsels, but will also be able to make them yourself in DIY classes.

LOVE RIVER

The “Love” in the name refers to this river’s romantic appeal, especially strong in the evening when the waterway is colorfully illuminated. The 12km-long river is framed by attractive bike paths and pedestrian walkways. This is a fine location to go on leisurely bike rides and relaxed walks. The best views are from down on the water’s surface – boat tours are very popular.

LIUHE NIGHT MARKET

This is the city’s best-known night market. It has well over 100 stalls, serving all kinds of yummy snack foods, selling garments and accessories, and providing fun games. Among the most popular food options are seafood treats, including barbecued, deep-fried, and served in congee or soup. Other recommended tasties are dumplings, pork chop soup, papaya milk, aiyu ice, sticky-rice sausagees, danzai noodles, and grilled squid.

GOLDEN FOUNDERS TRAVEL SERVICES ( 金建旅行社 ) www.178tour.com.tw (07) 222-1108 B1, No. 45, Zhongzheng 2nd Rd., Lingya Dist., Kaohsiung City ( 高雄市芩雅區中正二路 45 號 B1) 48

TR AVEL IN TAIWAN

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Liuhe Night Market 六合夜市 Love River 愛河 Pier-2 Art Center 駁二藝術特區 Qihou Battery 旗后炮台 Qihou Lighthouse 旗后燈塔

Qijin Island 旗津島 Star Tunnel 星空隧道 Tianhou Temple 天后宮 Vigor Kobo Golden Pineapple Castle 維格黃金菠蘿城堡

THE GRAND HOTEL 圓山大飯店

Visitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes to accommodation. From fivestar luxury hotels that meet the highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-spring and beach r e s o r t h o te l s , to p r i v a te l y run homestays located in the countr yside there is a place to st ay that s atisf i e s eve r y traveler’s needs. What all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and affordable — have in common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest standards. T he room rates in the follow ing list have b e e n c h e c ke d fo r each hotel, but are subject to change without notice. Room rates at the hotels apply.

Taipei 台 北

COLD & HOT SPRING RESORT SUAO

瓏 山 林 蘇 澳 冷 熱 泉 度 假 飯 店 Yilan 宜 蘭

NO. OF ROOMS: 500 (Suites: 57)

NO. OF ROOMS: 153

ROOM RATES: Single/DBL Suite

ROOM RATES:

NT$ 8,800-15,800 NT$ 22,000-36,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese RESTAURANTS: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop, steak house

Japanese, English, Mandarin, Taiwanese, Cantonese

FACILITIES:

Private spring house, outdoor cold/hot spring area, outdoor/ indoor swimming pool, indoor water massage area, top-floor scenic outdoor hot-spring pool; light-meal restaurant and bar, restaurant, executive meeting room, high-ceiling banquet hall; recreation center (gym, children’s game room, Internet area), spa, shopping arcade, multimedia classroom.Provided inside guestrooms: AVEDA toiletry set, EVIAN mineral water (1500ml), RSL slippers, DVD and stereo set (DVDs and CDs not provided), English Wedgewood tea bags and Japanese tea bags, coffee capsules, bathrobe, unlimited Internet access, safe

Deluxe Room Family Room Superior Family Room Superior Family View Room Suite Gaya Suite Gaya President suite

NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$ NT$

9,800 12,800 14,800 16,800 28,800 36,800 48,800

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Chinese FACILITIES: Swimming Pool, Gym, Business Center, ZAKKA Caesar & Rena

No. 301, Zhongyuan Rd., Su’ao Township, Yilan County 宜蘭縣蘇澳鎮中原路301號 Tel: +886-3-996-6666 Fax: +886-3-996-6000

No. 169, Xinsheng Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County 台 東 縣 台 東 市 新 生 路1 6 9 號 Tel: +886-89-611-888 Fax: +886-89-611-889

www.grand-hotel.org

www.rslhotel.com

www.gaya-hotels.com

NT$1,500

NT$1,500

3-Day Southern Taiwan Tour

NT$1,500

(Tainan, Kaohsiung, Kenting) (Taiwan High-Speed Rail – Bullet Train Ride) 三天二夜 台南 ˙ 高雄 ˙ 墾丁深度之旅 ( 含台灣高鐵體驗 )

NT$14,500

台北市松江路 190 號 4F

4-Day Central & Southern Taiwan Tour

NT$1,500 NT$4,200 NT$1,200

NT$1,300

Taitung 台 東

No. 1, Chung Shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City 台 北 市 中 山 北 路 4 段1號 Tel: +886-2-2886-8888 Fax: +886-2-2885-2885

NT$1,300

NT$1,500

ROOM RATES: NT$7,200 NT$7,700 NT$12,200 NT$8,500 NT$15,600 NT$8,500 NT$15,600 NT$14,600 NT$21,800

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:

SPECIAL FEATURES: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

NT$1,300

潮渡假酒店

NO. OF ROOMS: 145

Japanese Style Room (Single Spring Bath) Japanese Style Room (Dual Spring Bath) Japanese Style Suite (Dual Spring Bath) Western Style Double Room (Single Spring Bath) Western Style Quadruple Room (Single Spring Bath) Western Style Double Room (Dual Spring Bath) Western Style Quadruple Room (Dual Spring Bath) Western Style Suite (Dual Spring Bath) Japanese Deluxe Suite (Single Spring Bath)

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge.)

THE GAYA HOTEL

(Stay at Sun Moon Lake)

(Stay at QingJing)

(Sun Moon Lake, Kaohsiung, Kenting) 四天三夜 台灣中南部觀光 ( 日月潭、高雄、墾丁 )

4-Day Eastern Taiwan Tour NT$6,600

NT$6,900

(Yilan, Hualien, Taitung) (Taiwan Railway Train Ride) 四天三夜 海岸、縱谷豐富之旅 ( 宜蘭、花蓮、台東 ) ( 含臺灣鐵路體驗 )

5-Day Round Taiwan Island Excursion NT$12,500

(All hotels are 5-star hotels) 五天四夜 台灣環島巴士之旅 ( 全程五星級旅館 )

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan Tours and offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services (with drivers) .

Edison welcomes contact with other travel services around the world.

NT$ 14,000

NT$ 15,500

NT$ 16,900 本廣告受交通部觀光局補助

Pacific Business Hotel Pacific Business Hotel is situated in Taipei’s Xinyi District, close to Taipei International Convention Center, Taiwan World Trade Center, Tonghua Night Market, Xinyi shopping district, and Taipei 101. Being just a 5-10 minute walk from the nearest MRT station, it is well connected to the publictransport systems. There are also numerous options for dining in the hotel’s vicinity. The guestrooms are decorated in warm colors and have a minimalist modern design, each with its own balcony that offers views of the city. The Ju-Yi Restaurant on the 11th floor serves a diverse Western and Chinese buffet-style breakfast, while also offering set meals, self-service desserts, and drinks during lunchtime. The hotel’s considerate facilities include a multi-function meeting room, a gym, and a social room. A free laundry service is provided, adding to the comfort and convenience of guests. Whether for work or pleasure, Pacific Business Hotel is your home away from home in Taipei.

Add: 11F, No. 495, Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City ( 台北市信義區光復南路 495 號 11 樓 ) Tel: (02) 8780-8000 Fax: (02) 8780-5000 E-mail: pbc.taipei@msa.hinet.net Website: www.businesscenter.com.tw