"IN THIS PLACE, YOU GET A SENSE THAT THE FORCES OF THE EARTH HAVE NOT YET FINISHED THEIR WORK..." the forested parts of the trail, keep your eyes peeled for the gorgeous purple fiddleheads of the uluhe, a hearty fern that can be found in rainforests throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Kïlauea is a gently sloping shield volcano and it’s often hard to get a sense of its height while you’re on it. The Kealakomo Overlook is a great place to gain visual perspective as it provides expansive views of the island’s southeastern coastline and the Pacific Ocean. This overlook is situated on the edge of the Hölei Pali (cliff), and looking down at the lava field below, you can see stripes and patches of dark black lava amid the aging lava where newer flows headed toward the sea and continued to make the Big Island bigger. After Kealakomo, the road zigzags down the side of the pali, and the next stop is the Puÿu Loa Petroglyphs, a sacred place for Native Hawaiians. A short 1.5-mile round-trip hike from the main road, these petroglyphs offer insight into ancient Hawaiian culture and beliefs. About 85% of the 23,000 petroglyphs at this site are puka—holes where people placed newborn’s umbilical cords in the hopes that the babies would live long lives. Among the petroglyphs you will also find geometric shapes, anthropomorphic figures, and canoe imagery. At the bottom of the Chain of Craters Road, the sea collides with the lava in a dramatic fashion. In Hawaiian mythology, Pele, the volcano goddess, and her sister Nämaka, the sea goddess, are bitter enemies. After driving Pele away from their home, Nämaka continued to chase her, and as the battle between sea and lava continued to move from one spot to another, it formed the Hawaiian Island chain. It is said that Pele eventually found a home in Kïlauea, but it appears that the battle between the sisters continues. The volcano has won many times when its molten lava has poured over the side of the island and sizzled into the sea. But, as you stand on the edge of the lava cliffs at the bottom of the Chain of Craters Road, the sea appears to be winning as the waves crash against the cliffs with such force, at times it sounds like thunder. At the end of the Chain of Craters Road, the Hölei Sea Arch is a perfect example of the Big Island’s changing landscape. The arch will not be there forever. Someday, 102
it will no longer be able to withstand the battering of the ocean, and it will fall into the sea. But perhaps a new arch will form…perhaps new lava will flow to the sea and rebuild parts that have fallen off. In this place, you get a sense that the forces of the Earth have not yet finished their work, and you have no idea what will happen next. This is the profound beauty of a day spent exploring the Chain of Craters Road—the opportunity to revel in the unpredictable power and magnificence of nature. IMPORTANT SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS Once reaching the end of Chain of Craters Road, you can hike across lava rock to get a better view of active lava; however, the lava rock can be sharp and jagged, and lava benches can collapse without warning, causing steam explosions. It’s imperative to stay on marked paths and only hike if you have enough light to see where you’re going. Be extremely cautious and be responsible when venturing out keeping your safety top of mind. If hiking out to the lava, always bring plenty of water to stay hydrated, light snacks for energy, and a small first-aid kit in case of injury, and a charged cell phone. As you’ll be exposed to sun and heat, always wear a hat and sunglasses and cover exposed areas of your skin with sunscreen. For footwear, boots are a better choice than sneakers—no open-toe shoes. Wear appropriate clothing and layering is a good idea. It’s highly recommended that visitors watch the brief video presentation in the pavilion near the ranger station that outlines the dangers of the area. Visitors should also be aware of vog (volcanic air pollution/smog), which can be unhealthy and affect your respiration. To lessen the effects of vog, drink a lot of fluids to loosen mucus and clear the lungs; don’t smoke or overexert yourself and keep any prescribed respiratory or heart medications handy. To check vog and air-quality conditions, visit hawaiiso2network.com. Lava flows are generally not predictable and change frequently. Visitors who are interested in viewing lava should first check with the National Park Service. Call (808) 985-6000 or visit their website at nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/lava2.htm. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER