August 2014

SOUTHEAST ASIA

AUGUST 2014

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TOP TRAVEL APPS AND WEBSITES

t+l reader favorites HO T E L S , R E S O R T S , C I T I E S , I S L A N D S , C R U I S E S , A I R L I N E S A ND M O R E

SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000

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• 2 Most Prestige Waterfront Residences of Asia designed to be among the world's best residential properties with the Bangkok skyline rising above the river. An Icon of the futuristic living quality • 2 Unrivalled Glamorous Retail & Entertainment Complexes - where the best of world-class brands meet the best of Thailand's exquisite products: 500 shops and 100 of the finest restaurants from around the world • State-of-the-Art, World-Class Auditorium, ready to serve ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) Seminars, International Trade Exhibitions and cultural performances • The Museum of Treasures, featuring Thailand's Heritage and Wisdom

Ready to enchant the world in 2017

Contents Special 90 World’s Best 2014 Awards 2014 From cities and islands to airlines and airports, this is our annual definitive guide to the places and companies that are shaping travel now.

Features

pho t ogr a phed by a da m frost . m a p a n d gu ide page

115

116 In Search of the Manchus They were China’s last ruling dynasty, then pushed to the brink of extinction. Up in the far northeast, the revived spirits of these plains-dwelling, shamanistic warriors

reveal themselves to gabrielle jaffe . pho t ogr a phed by cher ry li . m a p a n d gu ide page

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124 White Fear Locked in a cage, dangling in the cold seas off southern Australia, diving daredevils can come face to face with great white sharks. This is one man’s account of what it’s like to stare directly into the jaws of death. st ory a n d pho t os by i a n lloy d n e u bau er . gu ide page 128

130 Sleepless in Seville Returning to the capital of southern Spain, andrew mccarthy finds crowded late-night bars and restaurants, the passions of flamenco and bullfighting, and the enduring mystery of the weeping Virgin. pho t ogr a phed by chr ist opher t esta n i . m a p a n d gu ide page

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A portal to the Manchu era in Yongling, China, page 116.

CHERRY LI

108 Hidden in Plain Sight Seaside camping away from it all is closer than you think. Just two hours from Phuket, joe cummings

discovers an Andaman archipelago so untraveled there aren’t even fishing boats on the horizon.

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Radar

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Shore Up Your Appetite Beach eats.

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The Bay Less Traveled Sailing Vietnam’s Bai Tu Long.

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Six Dishes: Sydney

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Halcyon Huzhou Lovely, lakeside China.

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Upcycled Eateries What’s old is now new.

56

Earthy Tastes Taiwanese mud tofu.

Plus A shiny new low-cost hub in Kuala Lumpur; recycled accessories by Hermès; and more.

Trip Doctor

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Travel Solutions Safer treks; avoiding cybercrime; the best in cameras; and more.

76

Strategies The 95 best travel apps and websites.

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Deals Amphibiousjeep touring in Bali; music-fest partying in Taiwan; and more.

Decoder 140 Our Definitive Guide to Portland

Last Look

146 Four Asian wonders new to the unesco World Heritage List.

In Every Issue de st i nat ions

14 e di t or ’s no t e

16 con tr ibu tor s

18 i n b ox

20 On the Cover Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto, a temple constructed without nails. Kyoto was voted No. 1 City Overall in T+L’s World’s Best Awards. Photographed

by Danita Delimont.

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: A A R O N J O E L S A N T O S ; C O U R T E S Y O F N A M S A A H B O T T L I N G T R U S T; P E T R I N A T I N S L AY; D I N A A V I L A ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H E R AT O N H U Z H O U H O T S P R I N G R E S O R T

Contents

Destinations

August 2014

123

POR TL A N D

140 SEVILLE

116

130

56 BA I TU LON G, VIETNAM

106

S H E N YA N G

H UA LI E N COU N T Y, TA IWA N

32

N E P TU N E I S L A N DS, AUST R A LI A

124

DESTINATION

PAGE

WHEN TO GO

WHAT US$5 BUYS

WHO TO FOLLOW

Bai Tu Long, Vietnam

32

The sunny days of October to November and March to June facilitate the clearest views of the karsts’ natural beauty.

A four-hour bus ride from Luong Yen station in Hanoi to Halong Bay.

@indojunk

Hualien County, Taiwan

56

Avoid typhoon season from June to September.

A 420-gram package of DerLi’s dried bean curds, in braised-pork or garlic-and-satay flavors.

@rTAIWANr

Neptune Islands, Australia

124

In the Austral winter, from May to October, summer-born seal pups frolick in the waters, while packs of great white sharks hunt.

A towel for your half-day swimming trip with Australian sea lions, by Adventure Bay Charters.

@RodneyFoxShark

Portland

140

Outdoor activities here peak between June and September, with consistently warm weather complemented by beer, music and food festivals.

A glutinous Korean rice cake skewer with guanciale and tonkatsu sauce at The American Local restaurant.

@travelportland

Seville

130

Orange blossoms scent the air from mid-February to March, and April brings Semana Santa, a week of spectacular religious events.

A tapas dish of stewed pork cheeks at Eslava.

@sevtraveller

Shenyang

116

September and October have perfect weather, plus festivals honoring the Qing legacy and Manchu customs.

Entry to Emperor Nurhaci’s Mausoleum.

@manjurabumbi

Long Weekend

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Beach

Active

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

Food+Drink

Shopping

Arts+Culture

Editor’s Note

August 2014

D

Where We’re Going

Pingyao Langkawi Rajasthan The Philippines

The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources.

While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.

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N A P AT R A V E E W AT

WHERE TO FIND ME

chrisk@mediatransasia.com @CKucway on Twitter

iscovering new destinations is a top priority on many of our travels. That’s where Bangkok resident Joe Cummings enters the picture this month, with his tale of visiting the Kam Archipelago (“Hidden in Plain Sight,” page 108). His narrative—he describes it as a detoxifying journey—is an uplifting read when you remember that, even in a tourist hotspot like Thailand, there are still islands left untouched. The story will leave you curious about the white spots on your personal travel map, knowing there’s never been a better time to start exploring unknown parts of Asia.

Regardless of whether you prefer rustic pastoral retreats or glittering modern hotels, the ever-expanding suitcase of online tools can help you zero in on that ideal itinerary. This month in Strategies (page 76), we share our pick of the 95 Best Travel Apps and Websites, each geared to help you uncover your dream destination.

Speaking of bests, this issue, like that of every August, looks at those cities and islands, hotels and resorts, airlines and airports that are at the top of their game. Regular readers will not be surprised at the results of the World’s Best Awards 2014. There’s a healthy dose of Asia in the final results, including first-time winner as the Top City, Kyoto, and repeatwinner in the International Airports category, Singapore’s Changi. While Singapore Airlines continues its dominance as the top International Airline, note that six of the top 10 international carriers are Asian— Cathay Pacific, Asiana, All Nippon Airways, Thai Airways and Korean Air—and Air New Zealand also makes the top 10. This compendium is a great reminder that we live in an innovative region when it comes to travel, and I haven’t even mentioned Bali, the Four Seasons Hong Kong, Oberoi Udaivilas or the Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island in Australia. Turn to page 90 for the full results. Then start planning your next break. —c h r i st oph e r k uc way

Contributors Ian Lloyd Neubauer — ­ Writer and Photographer White Fear page 124

Christopher Testani ­— Photographer Sleepless in Seville page 130

Duncan Forgan — ­ Writer The Bay Less Traveled page 32

Seville is a city of... Street life—bars, music, colors, beautiful people and jamón. So much jamón. Memorable moment Watching two teenagers deliver an impromptu song and dance in exchange for tapas at Mariscos Emilio, a restaurant in Triana. I have a hard time envisioning that happening in New York. A photography expert’s tip on best preserving your experiences Put the camera down.

Sometimes it’s better to be present in the moment than to obsessively document everything. You’ll end up with better memories—and photos.

Sailing Bai Tu Long feels... Like a reaffirmation. The Halong Bay experience has become a little stale because of all the tourist traffic, but Bai Tu Long reminds you the area deserves its fame. Up-and-coming Vietnam Ha Giang in the far north is pretty special. Riding motorbikes there in autumn—the rice was about to be harvested, the persimmon trees were laden with fruit and brightly colored flowers poked out from between the rocks. It was suitably Edenic. Next stop? I’m going to Islay in Scotland for the first time. I may drink some whisky.

C LOC K WISE FROM TOP: COU RT ESY OF IA N L LOY D N EU BAU ER; COU RT ESY OF DU NCA N FORGA N; STOW E RIC H A RDS A N D R AC H A EL JON ES

Swimming with sharks was… The most thought-provoking, fulfilling and exciting expedition I can remember.

When they lunge for something, it’s like an underwater explosion. What’s with Australia’s shark cull? I don’t think anyone takes pleasure in it. Attacks have increased due to conservation; there are more whales, whose calves the sharks come to eat. The only way to stop them is to kill the calves first, putting us where we started—hunting whales like cavemen and playing god—when should just leave them alone. Fox family values Rodney Fox’s son, scientist Andrew, says he only has dive customers to pay for his research of sharks. But I’m not so sure. Andrew is generous, cuddly and loves people.

Inbox The concierge area at the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort [“Last Look,” March] is even more spectacular in real life. This resort is a must.

—George Laggis

Another Saketini, Please

The best bartenders I’ve come across have been Japanese [“Shaking up Sake,” June].

—Carolina Simon Turkish Delight

california

pennsylvania

Food for Thought

Gary Shteyngart’s articles never disappoint, and “Beijing 24/7” [June]

Atoll Adoration

The Maldives [“Isle of Inspiration,” December 2013] are so beautiful. I’d love to vacation there. I’ll have to add it to the bucket list.

—Chachi Salazar Making It Easy

You give me inspiration to relax and go for quality holidays. My family and I really benefit. Keep up the good work team Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

You are my path to heaven on Earth.

—Shaf Le J Abar

Follow us f facebook.com/ TravelLeisureAsia + @TravLeisureAsia

Contact us tleditor@ mediatransasia.com + travelandleisureasia.com

MORGAN OMMER

My wife and I are traveling to Turkey next month, so I could not have been more pleased to read “Istanbul: Neighborhood by Neighborhood” [May]. It’s as if you created my own personal city guide. I can’t wait to try the meze at Giritli, a pastry from Hamdi Baklava—and I know Shannon won’t want to miss Koç Leather & Fur. —Ashton Eldredge

Visit us travelandleisureasia.com

was no exception. I’m surprised he didn’t include the Opposite House’s Peking duck, stir-fried with bamboo, mushroom shoots and Chinese sausage. It’s unlike any other.

—George Sands

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITORS DESIGNERS ASSISTANT EDITOR

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Radar

Drink in the view at Sundara in Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay.

News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.

t+l p i c ks

SHORE UP YOUR APPETITE

COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS

Sea breezes and ocean views… what better setting for supper?

Here, our favorite beachfront eateries across the region.

THAILAND Bistro @ The Beach

INDONESIA Sundara

AUSTRALIA Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta

PHILIPPINES Sands Restaurant

This cozy restaurant has a marquee seaside spot on the quiet side of Koh Phangan. Order the geang chu chi goong, tiger prawns swimming in cream from the island’s coconuts. Anantara Rasananda, 5/5 Moo 5 Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach, Baan Tai, Koh Phangan; 66-77/239-555; phangan-rasananda.anantara. com; dinner for two Bt1,700.

Mouthwatering surf and turf—think snapper with pickled fennel or double-rack of Australian lamb—is the name of the game at this luxe beach club, where the Sunday brunch is a must-visit. Bloodys, bubbles and beach—done. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay; 62-361/708-333; sundarabali. com; dinner for two Rp1,020,000.

Bondi’s surfside dining scene has gotten a welcome dose of glam and restaurateur Maurice Terzini’s latest project offers up its hottest tables. The blistered pies owe their authenticity to a Neapolitan chef, while the the porcine dish sports ever-so crisp skin. 3/75-79 Hall St. Bondi; 61-2/8090-6969; daorazio.com; dinner for two A$90.

The suckling pig and buttery Palawan lobster almost upstage the waves. For a truly Filipino experience, round up five of your friends for a medley of regional specialties called a “Boodle fight.” Discovery Shores Boracay, Station 1, Balabag; 63-2/7208888; discoveryhotelsresorts.com; dinner for two P1,600. —diana hubbell

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Radar why go

PLAY STATION From dazzling shows to gourmet dining, there’s more to Macau than roulette and one-armed bandits. Helen Dalley shares four reasons to go.

afternoon pick me up? Sip a Hong Kong-style milk tea and nibble a caramel fig pound cake at cute bistro Maquette (853/2881-3246; coffee and cake for two MOP88), where funky seating and creative plate presentation await.

Similarly charming is Chill Café (853/2853-2376; three-course set dinner from MOP138), which offers wobbly crème caramels and strawberry sodas in addition to mains like baked cheese tiger prawns with linguine.

If the weather’s good, find an umbrella on the three-story walk-up’s rooftop.

Because the casinos keep getting crazier. Macau is

positioning itself as a world-class entertainment destination: in the last 12 months everyone from Justin Bieber to the Rolling Stones has played the Cotai Arena (cotaiticketing.com).

Catch the Transformers 30th Anniversary Expo (at

Cotai Arena until Oct 5; HK$100 for adults, HK$80 for children), where you can pose beside 7-meter-tall replicas of Optimus Prime and Bumblebee, and witness the world’s first 2-meter-tall Transformers hologram. Or book tickets for seductive cabaret Taboo at the City of Dreams (three-show pass from HK$1,248 per person; cityofdreamsmacau.com), which features sword swallowing and burlesque dancing in addition to dazzling acrobatic displays.

Because the shopping is sublime. It’s difficult to visit

Macau without stepping foot in a casino, but if gambling isn’t your thing, you can always lose yourself in one of the cavernous shopping malls such as those at the City of Dreams or Galaxy Macau. Check out the La Perla concept store, which debuted at the Venetian (venetianmacao.com) this April. Just hit the jackpot?

Students in action at The Seasons Training Restaurant.

Pousada de Mong Ha Educational Restaurant.

Soaps and scents at Futura Clássica.

Splurge on a dainty purchase from the Maison collection’s Gold Edition, which features gold thread and 18-karat gold shoulder straps. Prefer high street shopping? Then check out Futura Clássica’s (853/28358378) lines of soaps, beauty products and candles from one of Portugal’s oldest beauty brands, Claus Porto.

Because students are becoming the masters.

The blossoming student hospitality industry is offering up some delectable dishes and high-end rooms at affordable prices. The Seasons Training Restaurant (mustseasons.

com; MOP488 per person for set dinner), on the campus of Macau University of Science and Technology (MUST),

Macau’s glitzy Cotai strip.

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opened earlier this year to support the newly created Bachelor of Food and Beverage management program. Employing a farm-to-table concept, it incorporates local produce and herbs from the campus garden into its daily rotating menu. Students from the Institute of Tourism Studies, meanwhile, run the 20-room Pousada de Mong Ha Hotel (ift.edu.mo; doubles

from MOP700), decorated with traditional blue-andwhite Portuguese tiles and carved wooden furniture.

Both of the in-house eateries—Pousada for breakfast and tea, and the Educational Restaurant, which has a Macanese dinner buffet (MOP250)— are exempt from tax and service charges. ✚

C L O C K W I S E F R O M B O T T O M : G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S E A S O N S R E S TA U R A N T; C O U R T E S Y O F P O U S A D A D E M O N G H A H O T E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F F U T U R A C L Á S S I C A

Because new boutique eateries are bringing small-scale charm to the over-the-top city. Need an

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Radar chefs

HOME COOKING Chef James Syhabout

Precision plating at Commis.

Talk about a triumphant homecoming. Born to Thai and Lao parents in a refugee camp in Ubon Ratchathani, Chef James Syhabout moved to the United States at age two, went on to earn the first and only Michelin star in Oakland, California, and now will be making his first trip back to Thailand in 20 years for the World Gourmet Festival in September.

Syhabout followed his mother, a Thai restaurant chef, into the kitchen, but she’s actually never dined at his minimalist, Nouveau Americain, tasting-menu-only Commis (commisrestaurant.com; dinner from US$95). “She grew up in a family of eleven in

Thailand,” he says, “and eating for her was more of a necessity than a luxury.” While the El Bulli- and Fat Duck-trained chef will be bringing his precision-plated, pygmyportioned style to Bangkok, it’ll be infused with the flavors of his birthplace... and you might even spot this locavore-to-the-core maestro sporting another thing he’s never lost a taste for: flip flops. “I never travel without sandals,” he says, “even to the Netherlands in winter.” The World Gourmet Festival runs September 1-7 at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok; worldgourmetfestivalbangkok.com; dinner Bt6,400 per person.

b e au t y

TAILORED FOR TRANSIT Shanghai-based trendsetter and celebrity stylist Wu Ling shares her fashion inspirations and pro tips for looking elegant on the road.

Fast track “A current obsession: comfortable sportswearinspired jogging or boxing pants from Alexander Wang that are made for lounging on planes. They pair just as well with trainers as they do with high heels.”

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Floral spritz “I love Jo Malone’s new Peony fragrance. It comes in a lightweight and tastefully designed travel size bottle.”

Flight fashion “You can’t compete with designer cuts, but dress your look down with some comfortable shoes—the outfit will feel less contrived and you won’t be in agony after the march to your gate.

I always wear my Vans trainers with a designer dress or a coat. This makes me move with attitude.”

Faking fresh “I often look a little ragged after a long flight so I’m a big fan of Origins MegaMushroom Skin Relief Mask that reduces puffiness in the morning. I also apply La Prairie’s Caviar Eye Complex to refresh eyes and lips. Use this beauty combo

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

and nobody will ever guess you took the red-eye.”

and let that pop of color amp up your look.”

Keep it light “Leave the clunky accessories at home. They weigh you down and set off airport sensors. I love feeling light and unrestrained. Belts, necklaces or any other statement jewelry can be constrictive. Instead, bring a bold pink or red lipstick

Pack it in Although Wu shops current collections, she avoids bags that look too trendy. “Check out the classic designers.

This season, I recommend Louis Vuitton’s new cute and classy baby W. It’s the perfect size for a passport, wallet and that statement lipstick.” —mark lean

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF FOUR SE ASON HOTEL & RESORT (2); COURTE ASY OF W U LING

As one of China’s top fashion influencers, stylist Wu Ling works with luxury brands like Celine, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Loewe on both editorial and online assignments. Her recent projects include a collaboration with actress Chen Ran to promote Loewe’s Cruz bag as part of the label’s global online campaign. Wu has also started a video fashion column on iqiyi.com called Ling. “I style myself with the latest fashions in approachable ways that everyone can relate to.”

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t r av e l u n i f o r m

ELEMENTS OF STYLE Fashion equals function for Sebastian Kaufmann, purveyor of utilitarian chic.

When it comes to style on the go, “quality is the number one criterion” for Sebastian Kaufmann, founder of practical-butpolished e-commerce site Kaufmann Mercantile (kaufmann-mercantile. com) and a self-described minimalist. After all, there isn’t a lot of extra baggage room for the

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New York–based man on the move, who often jets to the West Coast for work, to his native Germany to see friends and family, and to Costa Rica for R&R. His wardrobe—durable mix-and-match staples—fits a nomadic lifestyle. Unfussy basics, such as a classic Hanes T-shirt (US$24 for three)

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and comfortable jeans from Tellason (US$220), pair well with rugged Wolverine boots (US$295) and a Seil Marschall

canvas bag (US$359), which imposes packing restraint. A lightweight blazer, like this one from Rag & Bone (US$495), is

a must. “It feels good to have an inside pocket for my passport.” As for traveling itself?

Kaufmann chooses to be less than fully prepared. “I’m totally anti-itinerary,” he admits, preferring to wander.

“If I find five good stores that I like, I’m happy.”

—r achel felder

P HOTOG R A P H ED BY P E T ER YA NG AT K AU FM A N N ’S ST U DIO IN BROOK LY N , N E W YORK

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cruising

THE BAY LESS TRAVELED

Dodging the crowds of Halong Bay, Duncan Forgan sails in solitude through the neighboring waters of Bai Tu Long Bay.

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We’ve barely set sail from Indochina Junks’ private jetty outside Halong City when the charm offensive begins.

“This is Mr. Cong,” says Nam, our guide, as he introduces the crew of the Prince IV junk, a compact three-berth vessel that has been plying the oceans of northeastern Vietnam since 2009.

“He will be cooking lots of delicious food for you.” This promise will be borne out by the succession of sumptuous multi-course Vietnamese banquets in which we indulge during our three-day cruise.

After reaching the end of the roll call with a shout out to the venerable Mr. T—“the man who will help you with anything”—the crew shuffles back downstairs leaving us alone with the wondrous scenery that is starting to unfold as we head into Bai Tu Long Bay. The tableau is famous: hundreds of proud, moss-dappled limestone karst cliffs cut a labyrinth through the boundless blue. Oh yes, you’ve seen this iconic view on countless postcards of Halong Bay, and technically Bai Tu Long, our destination, encompasses the easternmost three-quarters of the tourist favorite. However, the longer itinerary required to cruise the further reaches of these waters keeps the crowds away—the majority of the estimated 5.5 million tourists who visit Halong Bay each year stick to an area roughly 25 kilometers west of where we are headed. With a tiny fraction of its westward neighbor’s traffic, Bai Tu Long retains the majesty of Vietnam’s premier bucket-list attraction, but you can experience it in near solitude.

Nam tells us that the limestone outcrops that jut out of the emerald waters of Bai Tu Long are not as lofty as the ones at Halong, but you would have to be a seriously obsessed karst aficionado to notice the difference. In addition to the scenery, the topline itinerary is also near identical to the average Halong Bay trip: a bit of kayaking here and a visit to a cave there with a stop by a “traditional” floating village equipped with a souvenir shop and a pearl retailer thrown in for good measure.

What is striking about life on the Prince IV is how laid-back it is. The Halong Bay ships tend to be bigger and P HOTOG R A P H ED BY A A RON JOEL SA N TOS

Clockwise from left: Paddling by limestone karsts; sun sets over Bai Tu Long; strumming guitar on a traditional junk boat.

Opposite from top: Kayakers take to the sea; vegetables grow in a floating fishing village.

Getting There It is a three-hour drive from Haiphong Airport to Indochina Junks’ private jetty outside Halong City, or a four-hour drive from Hanoi.

Backyard Travel can arrange the car transfer for you from either city, for no extra charge.

more crowded, and there’s a tendency towards the hard-sell with tourists being marched up to caves and cajoled into buying goods from local villagers.

By contrast, there are only six of us on this junk and—as Nam tells us soon after boarding—we are not beholden to any schedule except for mealtimes when the talented Mr. Cong works his magic, whipping up tangy herb salads, plump shrimp fresh from the bay and thit kho tho (Vietnamese claypot pork).

Between feasts, we’re left grappling with weighty dilemmas like choosing between a languid paddle through the karst or a horizontal session with a book on one of the boat’s sun loungers.

Below deck, the wooden-paneled quarters are tasteful, if not opulent, and large portholes offer a view of the scenery in air-conditioned comfort.

Kayaking is an undoubted highlight of the trip. We cast off late in the afternoon as the sun throws long shadows on the water and bathes the karsts in a soft-focus glow. Nam leads us directly towards an outcrop where a low chasm reveals itself. We busk our way through, using our paddles to fend off encroaching stalagmites and stalactites, before emerging in a lagoon enclosed by steep limestone walls. The high tide has brought in some unsightly garbage—“a growing worry,”

admits Nam, that’s rising with the number of visitors.

Halong Bay’s increased saturation has spurred several companies to set sail to Bai Tu Long over the past two years and, indeed, Indochina Junks will soon be debuting a new large-scale luxury boat in the area. There is certainly room for more boats on this quiet stretch of ocean, but the concern, Nam explains, is that operators will be looking to make a fast buck instead of considering the long-term impact.

“Right now Bai Tu Long is a new destination and only a few reputable operators bring tourists here,” he says.

“What we don’t want to see is lots of companies coming here with no concern for the environment. The authorities need to make sure that doesn’t happen and do more to keep the water clean.”

There is good reason to be hopeful.

Following international pressure (the entire Halong Bay area, including Bai Tu Long, is unesco protected), the Halong Bay Port Authority, the board responsible for regulating cruising and shipping in the area, has toughened up on safety standards, vowing to clamp down on littering.

Paddling back to the ship, it’s hard to imagine anything but a bright future for Bai Tu Long. The six of us are afloat

in the only kayaks in sight, and the view of eagles soaring above the forested peaks gives nature the opportunity to prove its superiority.

Even at the height of summer, the seascapes of northeastern Vietnam are perennially shrouded in mist. Today, though, the skies are a spotless blue and the sunset goes through a vivid repertoire of red, gold and purple.

You’ve seen the picture blanketed across travel agent offices throughout Hanoi’s Old Quarter. The only things missing from the scene are the dozens of tourist junks crowding the karsts.

The absence is spectacular. ✚ Book the three-day Bai Tu Long cruise through Backyard Travel. backyardtravel.com; US$416 per person.

A young man plays an acoustic guitar in the late

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Radar Clockwise from left: Travelers mill through KLIA2; the new terminal’s modern exterior; choose from 81 dining options.

Eat Pastamania (Level 2, Lot 125, Gateway@ KLIA2; meals for two from RM25) dishes up tasty Italian food. For healthy vegetarian mains, try Be Lohas (Level 2M, Lot 19; meals for two from RM40).

airports

ONE HAPPENING HUB A new budget terminal in KL is upgrading your layover. Story and photos by Marco Ferrarese Kuala Lumpur’s new airport terminal, KLIA2 (klia2.info), proves that low cost doesn’t mean low class. Launched in May, this flashy LCCT is light years ahead of its predecessor, which was pioneered by Air Asia’s Tony Fernandes in 2006 as the first ever all-budget terminal, but left much to be desired in terms of travelers’ comfort, with leg-numbing waiting chairs and dining options in dire straits. Eight years later, the boom in low cost carrier traffic has led to this snazzy US$1.3-billion upgrade, designed to cater to a whopping 45 million passengers per year. In line with its ambitious “Next Generation Hub” tagline, KLIA2 aspires to be the world’s missing link between low cost and full service flight experience.

The best part? The new terminal is only 2 kilometers 34

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away from KLIA, the main international airport, so transfers are smooth sailing.

The old LCCT was a 20-kilometer slog, and travelers were stuck hopping expensive taxis or waiting through half-hour long bus-rides to switch between the two airports.

Now the entire journey can be blissfully bus-free, thanks to the new terminal’s proximity to KLIA— conveniently linked to downtown KL via rail—and possibly our favorite new feature: 80 new air bridges.

That’s right—gone too are the days of shuttling from gate to plane aboard worn-out airline buses, or, a hated novelty of the old low-cost KUL, trekking the tarmac single-file for kilometers in torrential rain. Now travelers can strut on and off the plane via air-conditioned walkways.

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But with facilities like this and the vast, store-lined main terminal that tempts jet-setters to stop and indulge, you may not be in any rush to board. There are a staggering 81 restaurants, bars and cafés, and 118 shops spread across the 70,000 square meters of retail space, while the relaxation areas are furnished with comfy lounge chairs, laptop charging stations, and baby-care rooms. A hightech skybridge—the first in Asia—crosses over the airside giving passengers exceptional views of the airstrip. It’s a constant dance of lift-offs with more than 200 departures each day, and as plane after plane takes to the skies, KLIA2 also soars into the upper echelons of air travel. ✚

Drink Grab a cup of coffee at OldTown White Coffee (Level 3, Lot 27-29, departure hall; drinks for two from RM10). For a stronger drink (read: alcohol), swing by the foyer at Capsule by Container Hotel (Level 1, Lot 2/3, Gateway@KLIA2; drinks for two from RM25).

Stay For long layovers and early flights, check into Tune Hotel KLIA2 (tunehotels.com; doubles from RM188 per night), a 10-minute walk from the departure hall.

No-frills travelers can bunk down at Capsule Hotel (Level 1, Lot 2/3, Gateway@KLIA2; single beds available for three, six or 12 hours at RM45, RM70 and RM90 respectively).

Getting There Take the speedy KLIA Transit rail link. kliaekspres.com; 39 minutes to KL Sentral, RM35 per person; three minutes to KL International Airport, RM2 per person.

I N D E P E N D E N T M E A N S T H AT N O M AT T E R H O W G R A N D ,

L U X U R Y I S A LWAY S P E R S O N A L If you enjoy individuality, vitality, and epic luxury when you travel, discover the unique travel experiences of Preferred Hotels & Resorts and Preferred Boutique.

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HOTEL NEW OTANI TOKYO, “THE MAIN” – Tokyo, Japan

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make your travel more rewarding

L’HOTEL DU COLLECTIONNEUR ARC DE TRIOMPHE – Paris, France

Radar ↓ snack Rye tacos at Café Paci What happens when a Finnish chef takes over a former Mexican bar for a yearlong pop-up? Rye tortillas filled with rice pudding, buttery eggs and a smattering of chives. It’s a cultural collision that somehow works. cafepaci.com.au; A$4 for two tacos.

↓ breakfast Bacon, maple and pumpkin tart at Pinbone Slide up to the bar for a flat white and this sensational pastry crowned with thick, maple-glazed bacon. pinbone.com.au; A$12.

food

SIX DISHES: SYDNEY ↓ for the flight home Gingerbread at Flour & Stone

Our abridged, meal-by-meal guide to where and what to eat now.

↑ lunch Family-style som tum at Samosorn The local heroes behind Haymarket hot spot Chat Thai have opened a hawker stall at Pitt Street Mall that peddles regional Isaan fare. Among the accoutrements on their supersize papaya salad: pickles, cracklings and house-made pork sausage. samosorn.com.au; A$25.

After 10 years in classical French kitchens, star baker Nadine Ingram has a new home for her beloved recipes.

Pick up a bag of her freshfrom-the-oven gingerbread cookies, hand-painted in a rotating roster of whimsical designs. flourandstone.com.au; A$5 each.

↓ dinner Caviar, potato and sauce allemande at Rockpool Neil Perry’s mainstay has moved to a glam space downtown, with a tasting menu to match. One highlight: this poached egg veiled in a crisp potato cage, drizzled in shellfish-tinged velouté and topped with sturgeon roe. rockpool.com; prix fixe dinner from A$125.

↑ dessert Moon pie at Moon Park Locals are obsessing over the deconstructed moon pie at this Koreaninspired Redfern gem. The gamechanging twist: a thin layer of ginger jelly, to offset the sweetness of white chocolate pudding, prunes and torched marshmallows. moon-park.com.au; A$14. —pat nourse

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P HOTOG R A P H ED BY P E T RIN A TINSL AY

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m ov i e s

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Swedish director Lasse Hallström gives T+L the dish as his latest release, The Hundred-Foot Journey, starring Helen Mirren, hits theaters.

On filming in the cradle of French cuisine—as a vegan My experience with food in the south of France was mostly visual; I loved the Sunday market in St. Antonin Noble Val (tourisme-​saint-antonin-noble-val. com), where we shot most of our village scenes. All those beautiful chanterelles and porcini and juicy, ripe tomatoes—I felt like a kid in a vegan candy store.

Most mouthwatering scene The one in which a son, Hassan (played by Manish Dayal), and

Madame Mallory (Mirren) make an omelette together.

It’s an original collaboration between chefs that shows the sensuality of preparing food— even using simple ingredients.

On foraging in Sweden I spent childhood summers fishing and picking mushrooms in the Stockholm Archipelago near Vaxholm, where my wife, Lena Olin, and I now have a summer house. I’m still a serious mushroom picker, and even though I’m a vegan, I can never resist a proper gravlax there—and fresh wild strawberries, of course.

For a quick masala fix I’ve become a total Indian food addict. Whenever I’m in New York I order the vegetable curry at Bombay’s Indian Restaurant (bombaysnyc.com), in the Financial District. It’s so spicy and rich. —howie k ahn

Helen Mirren stars as a haughty French chef in The Hundred-Foot Journey.

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flights

JUST PLAYING The right song can make an airplane lift-off feel like the opening scene of a James Bond flick. To help you choose the ideal mood music to set the tone for your trip, carriers like Philippine Airlines and Air New Zealand now allow passengers to create tailored playlists from a large selection of onboard music. But what if the inflight variety just doesn’t cut it? Jetstar has an app for that. The Australian low-cost airline has partnered with Deezer, an on-demand music service, to create #travelbeats, an app that generates custom playlists from 30 million different tracks. If you have a confirmed booking on a Jetstar flight from Singapore to anywhere in Southeast Asia, you’ll get a free two-month membership for this service between now and September 7.

Once you’ve set your musical medley, you can listen to it on any device, online or off, during your flight or back on solid ground. Heading to Europe?

Spotify, a music subscription service similar to Deezer, has teamed up with British Airways to create Music Travel Guides for Amsterdam; Barcelona; Valletta, Malta; Naples; and Edinburgh, including a curated playlist for your chosen destination, a list of music events during the month you plan to visit, and an audio guide to the city of your choosing. The skies are alive with the sound of music.

© D R E A M W O R K S I I D I S T R I B U T I O N C O . , L L C ( 2 ) . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C H O T I K A S O P I TA R C H A S A K

The film, shot on location in the Midi-Pyrénées region of France, tells the story of a family of Indian immigrants who open a restaurant next door to a Michelin-starred rival run by Mirren’s character.

Here, Hallström shares some of his own memorable food encounters, on set and off.

Radar ← Best Bite You can’t leave Shanghai without trying xiao long bao (soup dumplings). My yuan’s on Jia Jia Tang Bao (90 Huanghe Lu; RMB150), a hole-inthe-wall in Huangpu.

→ What I Brought Back A carved-lacquer soapbox from the Peninsula—an in-room gift for suite guests.

THE TAKEAWAY t r av e l d i a r y

DESTINATION: SHANGHAI Just back from China, Jennifer Flowers shares her best discoveries in this frenetic, hypnotic megacity.

↑ Chic Crafts Traditional hand-dyed indigo batik, found at Nankeen Exhibition Hall (24 Lane 637, Changle Lu).

↑ Memorable Meal Eating dinner in the kitchen with French-born chef Paul Pairet and his team at Ultraviolet (uvbypp.cc; RMB950), one of the city’s most innovative restaurants.

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← Sweet Reward Every morning, I loved spreading my toast with this slightly tart yangmei jam, made from regional fruit by expat Amelia Heaton-Renshaw (ameliasmarketplace.com).

Coolest Cruise Enjoying dramatic skyline views along the Huangpu River on the Princess 54, the sleek new yacht for guests of the 235-room Peninsula Shanghai (peninsula.com; from RMB2,400). That’s me at left with one of the boat’s liveried attendants.

Shop This Block The French Concession’s Tian Zi Fang, a warren of galleries, boutiques and cafés in 1930’s former residences, has local designer labels and vintage-inspired curios.

Spice It Up Guyi (87 Fumin Lu, Xuhui; RMB155) serves fiery cuisine of Hunan.

Order the cumincrusted lamb ribs.

After Dark For classic cocktails, head to leather-​and-mahoganyclad Avenue Joffre (570 Yongjia Lu, Xuhui), where Japan native Munenori Harada expertly crafts Sidecars and Moscow Mules. ✚

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P H I L I P F R I E D M A N ; J E N N I F E R F L O W E R S ( 2 ) ; P H I L I P F R I E D M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M E L I A’ S ; J E N N I F E R F L O W E R S ( 2 )

Shanghai’s everchanging skyline.

PRESENTING SPONSOR

Radar

goods

OBJECT LESSONS

“Waste not, want not” seems like an odd ethos for the luxury goods house of Hermès, but its Petit h line turns reuse into an art form. Discarded materials from the company’s workshops—leather scraps; a flawed buckle—are transformed into brand-worthy, limited-edition objets, ranging from a crocodile coffee-cup sleeve to an alligator tablet case (shown). Pascale Mussard, Petit h’s artistic director— a sixth-generation member of the Hermès family—calls the project’s creations “living objects. Even the smallest pieces speak.” hermes.com. —pilar viladas

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COURTESY OF HERMÈS

Hermès puts glamour into recycling.

www.salasamui.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

An All-in-One Getaway Call it a destination within a destination.

Conrad® Macao, Cotai Central, only minutes from the city’s international airport, is home to everything you want, and it’s all under one roof. It really is its own city, an integrated resort that will leave you wondering when you can return as soon as you arrive.

GUESTROOMS Home to 636 guestrooms and 24-hour concierge services, Conrad Macao still manages to key on the little things to make your stay special. Each guestroom is fitted with an MP3 player and iPod/iPad docking station as well as premium bathroom amenities by Aromatherapy Associates. But this is no standard hotel: as an ultimate convenience, there’s also guaranteed early check-in, with advance notice and space being available from the previous night.

DINING Don’t forget you’re in Asia, where food tops most lists. Conrad Macao is home to a global cross-section of menus. Dynasty 8 evokes the charm of old-world China, one that includes high-end Chinese cuisine. Each of the eight private dining rooms is styled after a dynasty so be sure not to miss the signature fresh king prawns with caviar and deep-fried crab claw with five spices. At Grand Orbit, diners embark upon a culinary journey around the globe, enjoying Portuguese-influenced Macanese cuisine, Creole-

inspired dishes from Louisiana and even Brazilian Churasco. There’s also Italian, Thai, Indian and Malaysian dishes, so you simply cannot go wrong. In the lobby is The Lounge, home to Asian or Western breakfasts, afternoon tea and, come nightfall, signature cocktails.

SHOPPING Another favourite pastime in Asia is shopping, which at Conrad Macao is never far away. With over 100 retail outlets, Shoppes at Cotai Central is paradise for shoppers in search of luxury goods.

Think Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Omega, Rolex, Marc Jacobs and Zara Home.

ENTERTAINMENT Of course, there are also diversions for young guests. DreamWorks Experience at Cotai Strip Resorts gives children the chance to interact with their favourite animated characters and for you to take a deserved break.

BODHI SPA By now, you might need some downtime, so book an appointment at Bodhi Spa but don’t for a second think that this is just another five-star spa. The award-winning spa specializes in treatments, whether Ayurvedic, Aboriginal or Asian. You’ll relax knowing that your time in Macao has been well spent at Conrad Macao.

HEALTH CLUB Enjoy the health club, a state-of-the-art facility that incorporates cardio and strength equipment as well as yoga and pilates sessions.

The heated pool is surrounded by cabanas and day beds.

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Clockwise from left: Conrad Macao’s welcoming lobby; a Two Queens Deluxe bedroom; Dynasty 8 offers stylish Chinese cuisine; there’s nothing but soothing times at Bodhi Spa.

Conrad Macao, Cotai Central LUXURY OF BEING YOURSELF Rates from HKD2,498++ Until 31 Dec 2014 • Luxury accommodation for two in Deluxe Room • Enjoy a choice of either: - complimentary breakfast for two - complimentary upgrade to Deluxe Suite CONRAD MACAO SIGNATURE PACKAGE Rates from HKD2,498++ Until 31 Dec, 2014 • Luxury accommodation for two in a Deluxe Room • Daily breakfast for two at Grand Orbit • Portuguese Style Afternoon Tea Set for two (2 drinks included) • Stay for an extra night and enjoy: MOP200 Shopping and Dining Dollars

Estrada do Istmo. s/n, Cotai, Macao SAR, P.R. China Tel: +853-2882-9000 Fax: +853-2882-9001 www.conradmacao.com

Radar

Clockwise from left: Traditional Chinese motifs at Nanxun Ancient Town; boating through Nanxuns canals; antique junks float in front of the arched Sheraton Huzhou; wonton soup at Zhou Shengji.

HALCYON HUZHOU Escape the city and beat the heat at this bucolic lakeside retreat, just a two-hour drive from Shanghai. By Monsicha Hoonsuwan Pedal the Past

Sheraton Huzhou

The 700-year-old

(sheraton.com; doubles from RMB1,750) mimics the shape of the moon. And in the lake, a scattering of antique Chinese fishing junks acts as the perfect metaphor for the Middle Kingdom: a classic Chinese symbol floating between the moon and the sun.

Lianhua Zhuang (free admission), or lotus garden, is a 45-hectare lake park near the city center, originally built in the 14th century and restored in 1986.

Hop on a pedal boat for a sightseeing tour of traditional Chinese pavilions and gardens full of floating lotus flowers. Or follow the local lead: feed the koi fish, try practicing tai chi or duel the mahjong masters.

Get in the Ring

Arching over the southern shore of Lake Tai, China’s third largest lake, the ring-like, 282-room 46

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pools at Mystic Spa (sheraton.com; a day pass for Sheraton Huzhou guests RMB298; non-guests RMB368), like the toasty 40-degreeCelsius natural hot springs with views of Lake Tai. Or, head inside for a foot massage and snacks.

Devour Dumplings

Said to be one of Deng Xiaoping’s soft spots,

Bathe in Wine

Ding Lianfang

Channel your inner Dionysus with a dip in a 15-person pool filled with spring water and antioxidizing red wine. If you are in the mood for a more traditional soak, try one of the other 101

(41 Hongqi Rd.; lunch for two RMB8) has been serving its signature delectable qianzhangbaozi sifentou (steamed buns stuffed with pork, shrimp and scallops, wrapped in

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tofu skin) for more than 130 years. Down the block, order wonton made of meat and sesame and wrapped in bamboo leaves, at Zhou Shengji (43 Hongqi Rd.; lunch for two RMB9).

Go Boating

Forty kilometers east of Huzhou city lies a 13th-century water town, Nanxun, famous for its mix of architecture and southern-style gardens that play up natural beauty. Weave through intersecting canals on an eightseat boat for a glimpse of locals washing clothes, sipping tea

and just going about their days. Adult admission RMB100; RMB100 for a 15-minute boat ride.

Blaze into Bamboo

Zip through Anji County’s 60,000hectare bamboo forest—a landscape so dramatic it was used as the backdrop for an epic battle in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. A mini roller-coaster cart with a manual hand brake (RMB40 per person) offers a fast-paced eco tour of more than 40 bamboo species. And there’s no need to watch out for those flying kung-fu fighters. ✚

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: M O N S I C H A H O O N S U W A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H E R AT O N H U Z H O U H O T S P R I N G R E S O R T ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F Z H O U S H E N G J I

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trending

What’s old is new again as über-cool restaurants take over repurposed spaces across Asia. By Diana Hubbell Taking the concept of sustainable dining to the next level, restaurateurs are transforming aging buildings into trendy spots to grab a bite.

Instead of paving over the past, they’re incorporating the original character of these places while filling them with new life. One of the most buzzed about is superstar chef Ian Kittichai’s latest Bangkok project, Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7; 66-2/636-6622; namsaah.com; dinner for two Bt1,300). Once a soda company’s office and later a bank headquarters, the scorching-hot pink villa is now home to craft cocktails and amped up local favorites.

Think: duck confit noodle salad and kra pow burgers. +Converted shophouses are all the rage in Singapore, but at Moosehead Kitchen (110 Telok Ayer St.; facebook.com MooseheadKitchenBar; dinner for two S$80) you’ll find more than your average refurb.

This sliver of a space, run by father and son team Glen and Daniel Ballis, is decorated

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with murals by local graffiti artist Samantha Lo, and the food— jazzed up tapas like pistachio tarts with yuzu crème fraiche—is served atop upcycled, mismatched furnishings made from cast iron sewing machines and old wardrobes. +Over in Kuala Lumpur, La Vie en Rose (39 Jln. Raja Chulan; 60-3/20783883; lavieenrose.com. my; dinner for two RM170) brings un peu Parisian grandeur to a renovated 1950’s bungalow on Ceylon Hill. The original owners probably never dined on foie gras crème brûlée, but present-day Malaysians are swooning over the stuff. +In Beijing’s upand-coming Dashilan neighborhood, an old electronics factory was turned into Spoonful of Sugar (59 Tieshu Xiejie, Xicheng Dist.; 86-10/6308-3971; lunch for two RMB180), a cutesy café, with organic coffee, art for sale, custom-made tables, and a cheekily monikered menu. Order an Irish Lover for a whiskey-spiked caffeine jolt, or the salmon and cream cheese Jew Yorker sandwich. You’ll go for the eco sensibilities and vintage cool, but stay for the food. ✚ Clockwise from top: Namsaah Bottling Trust; tapas at Moosehead; Manel Valero (left) and Daniel Ballis of Moosehead.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : Z U P H A C H A I L A O K U N R AT/ N A M S A A H B O T T L I N G T R U S T; C O U R T E S Y O F M O O S E H E A D K I T C H E N ( 2 )

UPCYCLED EATERIES

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FLY ME TO THE MOON

W

Misadventures in air travel.

By Gary Shteyngart

hen I was told I was flying to an Indian literary festival via Kuwait Airways, I was ready to arrive in style. Emirates Airline, Etihad Airways, Qatar Airways—the region is known for its luxurious, pampered version of air travel. Perhaps Kuwait Airways would have a new Airbus A380 with an onboard lounge? High-thread-count bathrobes? Personal air butlers? In any case, I hoped the wine menu would have a nice dry Riesling to help me ease into a different climate, and, heck, some free spa products would be nice.

When I arrived at JFK, I approached a plane so tired-looking it might as well have been a Douglas DC-3. The blue and white livery sported nothing more than the airline’s name and an unidentifiable bird—speculation on 50

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Air travel is hard sometimes, I know.

And everyone loves to complain the Internet ranges between crane, about it—the overbooked flights, the stork, falcon and “big chicken.” Once security-screening shoe removal, the aboard, I entered a retro color scheme lines, the food. But the truth is that combining the 1960’s, 70’s and 80’s. I air travel can be a cultural experience, half expected the Persian Gulf version even when—maybe especially when— of the cast of Mad Men to appear. things go wrong. Flying on the The business-class seats did not fully very best airlines, like Singapore or recline. My seat creaked a couple Emirates, may lead to placid boasts of of degrees and then called it a night; onboard showers and Mario Batali– meanwhile a flight attendant grade meals. But flying a bad airline gracefully dropped what looked like can be far more interesting than your the world’s largest date on my armrest.

This was not a good idea, as it attracted destination. Even Kuwait Airways, as dated as it seemed, had its sweet the world’s largest fly, which would moments. Once, as I was squealing buzz around the cabin and swoop onto from back pain in my nonmy armrest for the duration of reclining seat, a flight attendant the flight, hoping for more gently tucked a blanket over my oversize sweets. Dazed and writhing form. I was served confused, I reached for the writers on drinks menu: “Diet Pepsi, Coke, flying —first high-octane “Arabic coffee” out of a golden samovar and ➔ 7UP…Variety of Flavoured Teas.” in a series

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I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Z O H A R L A Z A R

point of view

Oh, dear God. Oh, no. Could this be a dry flight?

To answer my question, a video screen flickered to life to point out the direction of Mecca. Yes, this was a dry flight.

I clicked on the Kate Winslet– Leonardo DiCaprio version of Revolutionary Road on my video player, but 20 minutes in realized it had been completely sanitized for a Kuwaiti audience. I kept racking my brain. Weren’t adultery and a botched abortion at the center of Richard Yates’s novel? All people seemed to do in this version was play with their children and eat halal meals together.

When we finally landed for a three-hour stopover in Kuwait City, I somersaulted off the plane and into the business lounge, which also did not have any dry Riesling or spa products (I was ready to drink hair tonic, as my Russian ancestors once did). I was informed that the entire country was, in fact, alcohol-free. As consolation, I was directed to the nearest Cinnamonster, a chain that seems to exist mostly in the lesser parts of Texas, Colorado and, yes, Kuwait City. I paused outside the cinnamon-reeking franchise and then remembered something. Oh, right. I felt a twinge in my back. It was time to board the four-hour flight to Mumbai.

Radar given a Kuwait Airways computer mouse as a gift. (If only I still owned the Texas Instruments computer it was clearly intended for.) The fly and I eventually became friends.

Far lower on the food chain was Varig Airlines of Brazil, a once-proud national carrier I actually saw fade out of existence in 2006.

To begin with, I spent a pleasant day being tortured at the São Paulo International Airport. The crack security team was convinced that the half-dozen disposable cameras I had brought to Brazil (this was before the ubiquity of camera phones) constituted an explosive device. The hour-long search only ended when I produced the Brazilian version of one of my novels; my photo on the jacket flap led the teenage-looking soldiers to stand down. I was sure I would miss my flight, but fortunately it was delayed for three hours. Then six.

Then 10. Finally, a bus came to drive the business-class passengers to a hotel behind a series of favelas.

A short, worried-looking man was sent out to address us in the hotel lobby. I was lost behind a scrim of tall American executives, but I thought the Varig representative’s speech went something like this: “Eh, the plane it no fly because we have no the moneys for the JFK.” Apparently, Varig had run out of the cash needed for landing fees. I figured if we all ponied up a couple hundred dollars we could make it happen, but that idea never took off, so to speak.

Forty-eight hours later, we were strapped in to one of the storied airline’s last flights. I unlatched and propped up the heavy video monitor from my armrest, and it promptly fell off and landed on my knee. I’m sure my howls were heard as far back as the last row of the plane, but the flight attendants had other things on their minds. After my screams had turned into a kind of teary intermittent sputtering, one of them, hands on her hips, approached me with a sigh. “Would you like to change seats?” she asked.

And then there is my beloved ancestral airline, Aeroflot, which

ferried my family and me out of the Soviet Union some 35 years ago. To be fair, Aeroflot has gotten its act together as of late, especially on transatlantic flights, where it uses modern Western aircraft and where flight attendants seem contractually obligated to crack one smile for every 3,000 kilometers flown.

Not so on the busy Moscow– St. Petersburg route. The security line at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo International Airport was held up as a gentleman who looked to be a World War II combat re-creationist tried to bring a giant hunting knife on board. We boarded an ancient Tupolev plane.

Midway through the one-hour flight, during the ecstatic moment when a piece of cold mystery meat is slapped onto one’s waiting tray, a fellow passenger came back with some difficult news. “I think the bathroom exploded,” he said.

Indeed, a trickle of greenish liquid soon began to crawl its way toward business class. I set down my cold meat. “Devushka,” I said to the flight attendant. “Miss. There appears to be waste spilling into the cabin.”

The flight attendant looked as if she was in her early thirties, but working at the world’s goofiest airline, with their ravenous flies, missing landing fees and exploding bathrooms, surely makes for centuries-old wisdom.

“So lift up your legs,” she said.

And I did.

Right now, I’m on a different kind of flight: a 15-hour Virgin Australia mega-haul from Los Angeles to Sydney. Forget about exploding bathrooms; there’s a bathroom for women only, and even the one for both genders gleams with care and pride. As we approach Sydney, the flight attendant scoots down and asks me if I enjoyed my flight. Get this: She seems like she actually wants to know.

Yes, I say. I did enjoy my flight. In fact, I loved it. But for all its virginal luxury, will it ever be as memorable, as unique, as a miserable flight on North Korea’s Air Koryo? I don’t think so. ✚

Radar ac c e s s o r i e s

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THE MAN BAG Don’t call it a murse!

The latest iteration of duffells is all rugged style and indie cred.

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PHILIP FRIEDMA N. ST YLE DIRECTOR: MIMI LOMBA RDO. MA RK E T EDITOR: COURTNE Y K ENEFICK

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r ec o n

THE LATEST NEED-TO-KNOW OPENINGS

1. The olive-and-rust tote from Graf & Lantz is handcrafted in L.A. with useful extras such as zippered interior compartments and an iPhone pocket (US$269).

2.Maybe it’s their misty Oregon roots. The customized bags by Will Leather Goods are designed to brave the elements: the waxed canvas is a sibling of water-resistant sailcloth (US$645). 3. Online boutique Everlane is known for stylish simplicity and international sourcing. For proof, see this racingstriped weekender made in Dongguan, China (US$95).

4. A cult hit for its bomber jackets, Cockpit USA brings the same edgy polish to its new World War II–​inspired dispatch carrier, fashioned with chestnut cowhide (US$470). 5. Austin, Texas–based Satchel & Page’s leather messengers age as gracefully as a baseball glove, thanks to hand-finished edges and 40-day vegetable-oil tanning (US$430). —nate storey

Hotels Bringing boutique charm to the banks of the Chao Phraya, sala ayutthaya (salaayutthaya.com; doubles from Bt3,119) is soft opening in Thailand’s ancient city of Ayutthaya.+A classic-but-tired Great Barrier Reef resort is back as the rebranded One&Only Hayman Island (oneandonlyresorts.com; doubles from A$790); suites are more spacious and activities are amped up. Restaurants In Hong Kong, the tongue-in-cheek Ho Lee Fook (holeefook.com.hk; dinner for two HK$500) serves up playful twists on classic Chinese fare. + New Yorkers are applauding the return of chef David Waltuck, of Chanterelle fame. He resurfaces with Élan (elannyc.com; dinner for two US$90), in the Gramercy neighborhood.

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style

SHOW OF HANDS Our treat: 12 timeless pieces that say, “I’ve got it!”

By Mimi Lombardo

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sterling silver and black diamond ring, David Yurman. 2 Rose-gold watch on alligator strap, Tag Heuer; sterling silver ring, David Yurman. 3 Yellow-gold bracelet with semiprecious stones and rose-gold, green agate and diamond ring, Roberto Coin.

4 Steel-case timepiece on leather strap, Hermès; gold, mother-ofpearl and diamond bracelet, Cartier; diamond-and-rosegold ring with matching rose-gold band, Van Cleef & Arpels. 5 Stainless-steel chronometer, Rolex; platinum ring, Cartier; silver-and-wood cuff links, Hermès.

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Shot on location at New York’s Bar Bolonat (barbolonatny.com; dinner for two US$90), serving modern Israeli food in the West Village.

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P HOTOG R A P H ED BY G R A N T CORN E T T

S U I T S B Y B U R B E R R Y ( L E F T ) A N D V I N C E C A M U T O ; S H I R T S , T H O M A S P I N K . M A R K E T E D I T O R : C O U R T N E Y K E N E F I C K . H A N D M O D E L S , C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : N ATA L I E S A R R A F, S H A N E D U F F Y, E L I S A V E TA S T O I L O V A , D O U G S E I B E R T/ P A R T S M O D E L S . N A I L S B Y D I D A F O R C H A N E L B E A U T É AT R AY B R O W N . P R O P S T Y L I S T: J O J O L U Z H O U L I

1 Steel-and-leather watch by Chanel;

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Radar

d i s c ov e r y

EARTHY TASTES Volcanic mud is the secret to this Taiwanese village’s artisanal tofu.

Michelle Tchea gets her hands dirty in pursuit of knowledge… and lunch.

Necessity is the mother of invention.

So it was that the unhappy food shortages during the 50-year Japanese occupation of Formosa gave way to a unique and deliciously emblematic innovation in Taiwanese cuisine: volcanic mud tofu. This toothsome tale begins four hours south of Taipei in the modest villages of Hualien, with their panoramic views of the Pacific, scenic backdrop of Central Mountains—and shifty location, caught between the Eurasian and Philippine Sea tectonic plates. Here, in 56

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Luoshan township especially, the lively subterranean thermal activity creates mud volcanoes, burbling hills of wet clay rich in minerals like calcium and magnesium. The strange alchemy of this geodynamic phenomenon is the magic ingredient for Luoshan bean curd, and offers a distinct earthy soybean flavor unlike any commercial tofu.

“Under Japanese rule, many of our cattle and corn were given away,” says Lin Yun Zhi. “Our farmers didn’t have much variety in our diets, so our

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

parents were encouraged to use local resources, making tofu from volcanic water.” Only five families continue to carry out this 92-year-old tradition, which has been revived just in the last 10 years. “In order to promote farmers in the area, we are remembering skills our parents taught us,” Lin tells me.

Lin is now a master mud-tofu maker, and it’s from him that I learn to craft this more natural bean curd. True Luoshan tofu requires no additives, not even the coagulant edible gypsum, on which most store-bought tofu ➔ IL LUST R ATION BY WASIN EE C H A N TA KORN

A spectacular new production of a favourite Puccini classic.

LA BOHÈME

TEATRO LIRICO ITALIANO OF ROME AND MACEDONIA OPERA, ITALY

Monday 15 September 7.30pm

Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500 Supported by Embassy of Italy

“Gravity-defying, bizarre, breath-taking and truly spectacular.”

Time Out

CIRQUE ECLIPSE

CHINA NATIONAL ACROBATIC TROUPE, BEIJING Fri 19 Sept & Sat 20 Sept 7.30pm Sunday 21 Sept 2.30pm

Baht 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 800

Hotline 02 262 3191 www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)

www.bangkokfestivals.com

VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm

Radar

luxurious bliss

Experience the luxurious comfort, tropical paradise and breathtaking view of the Andaman Sea at Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort where your holiday is magnificent.

relies. The process begins with an overnight soaking of the organic soybeans, handpicked by Lin and his family. Lin pours soybeans into a handmade grinder and starts churning. I try to follow suit, but realize my upper-body strength pales in comparison to that of this 70-year-old man. He rescues me without breaking a sweat. As the beans reduce to pulp, soymilk begins to drain forth. Together, we move swiftly, pouring the pearly prize into a large silver pot over a small straw fire. Next we gently add the volcanic water.

This was collected as a bucket of mud three days ago, but after 72 hours of resting, the silt and impurities have settled to the bottom and we scoop the clear mineral-rich water off the top to add to the heated soymilk. “We are using only the best ingredients,” Lin stresses, “organic nongenetically modified soy beans, natural mud volcano water…that’s it.”

Under heat, curds form and Lin scoops up the floating pieces. I volunteer to compress the tofu into the square shapes you see on supermarket shelves. Our efforts complete, the tofu sits in snow-white cubes begging to be eaten. I acquiesce, sandwiching my chopsticks with a thick, white sliver drizzled in a fine line of soy sauce, and take a delicate mouthful. I’m bowled over by the sapidity and bite. This is not the airy spongy stuff of your average Chinese restaurant; the texture is tender yet firm, each tiny square packed with fresh organic soybeans. It is by far the most fragrant and savory tofu I’ve ever tasted.

Dwellers of Luoshan, this intimate, pastoral township that’s all small inns and family-run restaurants, will tell you that it’s the minerals from the volcanic mud that fill the tofu with such rich flavor. I’d add that there is a special sweet satisfaction in enjoying the fruits of my own labor. And, there’s the knowledge that—despite a recent influx of mostly Taiwanese, Japanese and Korean tourists clamoring for this specialty—I’m eating a meal that so few try. Only here, in the hills of Luoshan, do the generations-old secrets of volcanic tofu still bubble up from the earth. ✚ Getting There There are daily flights to Hualien Airport from Taipei Songshan Airport, or you can take the twoto three-hour train trip (NT$340-NT$440) from Taipei to Hualien. Once you arrive, take a five-minute taxi (NT$150) ride to May Hawthorn Inn for the tofu cooking classes.

Do Tofu Cooking Class Nature Experience Farm, No. 58 Luoshan Village, Hualien; 886-3/8821189; classes NT$1,200.

Stay May Hawthorn Restaurant and Inn 53 East Lake Village, Hualien; 886-3/882-1811; doubles from NT$1,600.

Radar

obsessions

CANDY CRUSH It was Chupa Chups that sold me. I was studying in Europe when I discovered these irresistible Spanish lollipops.

They were the first foreign candy I became obsessed with—and when I flew home, I filled an entire suitcase with them. It was the beginning of a long, sweet relationship. Now, everywhere I travel, I’ll visit local candy stores and emerge with at least 10 pieces of something.

My 5,000-item collection at Dylan’s Candy Bar in New York City (dylanscandybar.com) runs the gamut from Australian licorice (a personal favorite) to meter-tall French lollipops to candy-themed art (a beaded box of jujubes; a Swarovski-crystal Pez dispenser). I’ve learned that European candy packaging tends to be more classic, made of high-quality paper emblazoned with traditional paintings, while Japan skews more pop-modern, with glossy colors and kooky graphics. I’ll comb through groceries and pharmacies, where the coolest stuff might be hidden behind the cash register. Once, at Sweet Centre, in London’s Leicester Square, I found this amazing, oversize Wonka Bar sign. They asked, “What do you want with a giant piece of cardboard?” I said, “I saw the movie when I was six, and ever since I’ve dreamed of living in a candy fantasy world.” And now I do. —As told to Hilary Sheinbaum

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P HOTOG R A P H ED BY P HILIP FRIEDM A N

L A U R E N : R A C H E L M U R R AY/G E T T Y I M A G E S

Sugar mogul Dylan Lauren recalls her global sweets pursuit.

understated elegance

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your travel dilemmas solved ➔ t + l ’ s fav o r i t e n e w c a m e r a s 64 … h o w t o t a k e b e t t e r s m a r t p h o n e p i c s 66 s a f e a n d s t u n n i n g h i k i n g t r i p s 68 … av o i d g e t t i n g h a c k e d o n y o u r n e x t t r i p 70 … t h r e e l o o k s w i t h j u s t o n e s u i t 74 … 9 5 a p p s t h a t w i l l s av e y o u t i m e a n d m o n e y 76 … t h i s m o n t h ’ s d e a l s 86

Trip Doctor

by Amy Farley

NEED A TRAVEL FIX? THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT. These days, there’s an app for just about everything, from making the most of an extended flight delay to tapping into local culture. Turn to page 76 for our annual roundup of the best digital tools for travelers.

ATTENTION PASSENGERS WE WILL BE

STUCK IN TOKYO!

T H E U N E X P E C T E D L AY O V E R

?

! translate

TIPPING TIPS

HOTEL?

priceline.com

I L L U S T R AT E D B Y Q U I C K H O N E Y

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Trip Doctor

Tech

The Best New Cameras Whether you’re in the market for a userfriendly point-and-shoot or an expert-level DSLR, T+L tech correspondent Tom Samiljan has the model for you.

BEST ZOOM AND VIDEO Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS40S The 30x optical zoom and 18-megapixel sensor on this fixedlens point-and-shoot

make for detailed snaps, while a correction feature keeps videos blur-free and level, no matter how much you’re moving around.

US$447, panasonic.com.

BEST RUGGED Canon PowerShot D30 Waterproof, shockproof and optimized for shooting in sunlight, this virtually indestructible compact is ideal for outdoors enthusiasts.

Plus, great photos can be shot effortlessly with the help of image stabilization and intelligent auto modes. US$300, canon-asia.com.

BEST FOR EDITING AND SHARING Samsung Galaxy Camera 2 Samsung’s advanced point-and-shoot features built-in flash, 21x optical zoom and smart modes that can compile faces from multiple photos into one perfect hybrid.

Bonus: it runs full Android software, which means you can download apps, edit your photos and share them over Wi-Fi. US$450, samsung.com.

BEST FOR ACTION SHOTS Sony A6000 For DSLR quality without the bulk, try Sony’s new mirrorless model. It’s compatible with more than a dozen lenses; has a 24-megapixel sensor

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for well-focused, high-​res shots; and yields colorful images in all kinds of light thanks to a wide-ranging ISO. Also impressive: an ultrafast, supersharp burst mode for all kinds of highoctane situations. From US$650, sony-asia.com.

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BEST FOR PROS Nikon D5300 This 24-megapixel DSLR is all about clever design and efficiency, with a high-speed shutter, a comfortable grip and a tilting LCD display for tricky angles.

Want to save on battery life? Use the large optical viewfinder.

Want to shoot video?

You’ve got 1080p HD. There isn’t much this camera doesn’t do.

From US$750, nikon-asia.com.

P HOTOG R A P H ED BY DA N N Y K IM

Trip Doctor

Tech

Upgrade Your Phone With a couple of key accessories (shown here with the iPhone 5S), you can turn your camera into a bona fide powerhouse.

By Tom Samiljan

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Sony Smartphone Attachable Lens-Style Camera (DSC-QX100) What it is A DSLRquality Carl Zeiss lens that clips on to the body of your phone.

How it works Download the app, connect via Wi-Fi or NFC, and your phone’s screen becomes the viewfinder for this powerful camera.

Compatible with Android phones, iPhone. US$450, sony-asia.com.

Mottr Galileo What it is A rotating dock that lets you take panoramas, video or time-lapse images.

How it works Connect with Bluetooth, mount your phone in various poses, and shoot through your favorite third-party photo app. Our favorites?

Sphere, for capturing 360 degrees in a single frame, and TimeLapse, for long exposures.

Compatible with iPhone and iPad. US$150, motrr.com.

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Olloclip 4-in-1 Photo Lens What it is Four lenses—a fish-eye, wide-angle and two macro lenses— each as small as a nickel that twist on and off a tiny mount.

How it works Slide it onto your phone and you’re good to go.

Compatible with iPhone. US$70, olloclip.com.

4 Joby Grip Tight Gorilla Pod Stand What it is An adjustable tripod.

How it works Bend its twisty legs to attach your phone to tree branches or bikes, or rest it on a flat surface. Compatible with Android phones, iPhone, Windows phones. US$30, joby.com.

5 Shutterball What it is This little orb acts as a remote shutter­— perfect for selfies.

How it works Just install the app (free for Android and iOS) and pair via Bluetooth.

Compatible with Android phones, iPhone. US$25, myshutterball.com.

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Download This...

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Three new editing apps we can’t stop using.

Waterlogue After you upload your mobile snaps, this app will turn them into painterly masterpieces. US$2.99, iPhone. Litely Select from nine subtle, cinemainspired filters­, or buy a series of destination-themed add-ons. Our favorite: Venice, which casts a warm glow onto images. Free, iPhone. Vhoto Get the best stills from your film clips—it’s great for capturing action shots or fast-moving kids. Free, iPhone.

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iBlazr Flash What it is Four superbright LED’s that help you shoot in low light situations and reduce red-eye in photos. How it works Plug it in to your headphone jack and turn it on.

Compatible with Android phones, iPhone. US$50, iblazr.com. ✚

DANNY KIM

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Trip Doctor

Planning

by Diana Hubbell

Q+A

I’M A FAIRLY EXPERIENCED HIKER AND CLIMBER, BUT I LIKE TO STAY SAFE. HOW DO I FIND A LOW-RISK TRIP THAT STILL PRESENTS A CHALLENGE?

Staying safe doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice that sense of adventure. These four trips pack in some serious thrills and stunning scenery while keeping you out of any real danger.

Ascend to the base camp of Chomolhari mountain in Bhutan.

Meet mountain tribes and summit snowcovered peaks in Nepal.

china

Operator: Epic Tomato Tour: Nepal - Forbidden Valley; 16 days from £5,890 per person.

Climb to a dizzying 5,280 meters as you brave the steep slopes and snow-covered summits of the Kang La pass. You’ll get a dose of Nepalese culture when you trek through remote mountain passes, visiting the local tribes.

Intrepid travelers will love seeing the hidden corners of the Himalayas, accessible only by a select few—including stunning aerial vistas during a fixed wing flight over Annapurna Massif— while cautious climbers will appreciate the 24-hour backup support both in-country and in the U.K. epictomato.com.

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Operator: WildChina Tour: The Heights of Heavenly Mountain: Trekking Mt. Bogda; nine days from US$3,500 per person.

A far cry from the country’s eastern cities, the western province of Xinjiang has everything from scorching deserts to the sky-scraping peaks of the Bogda range. There, visitors wind through alpine meadows and glacial lakes with unbeatable views. WildChina requires all of its travelers to buy travel insurance (around an extra US$40) in case the need for a medical evacuation arises, meaning that you’ll get worldclass care even in remote locations. wildchina.com.

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bhutan

tibet

Operator: Ryder Walker Tour: Bhutan Chomolhari Trek; 12 days from US$4,895 per person.

Operator: GeoEx Tour: Kangshung Face of Everest Trek; 22 days from US$7,950 per person.

While visiting the Land of the Thunder Dragon, you’ll cruise through centuries-old monasteries and temples, including Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the country’s oldest. As you ascend to Jangothang, your basecamp at the foot of Chomolhari mountain, you’ll be in good hands—in addition to the standard first-aid and CPR training, each Ryder Walker guide is required to complete rigorous medical certification programs, including EMT and Wilderness First Responder. ryderwalker.com.

Welcome to one of the most spectacular—and tourist-free— sides of the world’s highest mountain. Towering obelisks of ice line the trail as groups make their way up in near total solitude. In case of an accident, GeoEx has a long-established, global safety network in cooperation with organizations including Global Rescue, Travel Guard and the Shoreland Travax.

And don’t worry about getting stuck with a hefty bill—all of their trips include medical insurance and emergency evacuations. geoex.com.

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F E P I C T O M AT O ; D A N I E L S U N D Q V I S T

nepal

Trip Doctor

The Fix

by Amy Farley

Q+A

SHOULD I BE WORRIED ABOUT CYBERSECURITY WHILE TRAVELING? —jamie lynch, dallas, texas

Smartphone, tablet, laptop. Chances are you carry at least two of these devices on the road. I’ve been known to pack all three, along with a BlackBerry, for good measure. (Yes, I know: overkill.) still vulnerable. The risks run the gamut from having your credit card information stolen to full-on identity theft. Here are the major threats you should be aware of—and how to avoid them.

Experts agree: don’t use them.

That goes for the ones you find in scruffy cafés as well as those in business centers, even at reputable hotels. James Lyne, an expert on cybercrime and

Here’s the scenario: you’re traveling abroad and don’t want to rack up data roaming charges, so you’re relying on Wi-Fi. You pop into a café or a park and see that you’re within range of a network.

Too good to be true?

Unfortunately, the answer is all too frequently yes.

According to Lyne, fake hot-spot registration pages, which entice you to hand over your credit card information, are a favorite scheme for hackers. Free networks are ➔

250k The number of new pieces of malware that SophosLabs detect and analyze each day.

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SOMETHING WENT MISSING FROM MY HOTEL ROOM!

Do...

Report any theft immediately.

Authorities may still be able to recover lost goods, and a hotel’s insurance may cover the damages.

Don’t...

The fake hot spot.

The shared computer.

by the numbers

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WHAT’S YOUR PROBLEM?

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

Jump to conclusions.

Search your room thoroughly before making accusations.

Do...

Check local laws.

If a hotel doesn’t provide notice of its limits to liability or offer private safes, you may be entitled to full compensation.

Don’t...

Be irresponsible.

If your room had a safe—and you chose not to use it—the hotel is most likely not responsible for your loss.

I L L U S T R AT I O N S , F R O M L E F T: J A V I E R J A É N ; B E N W I S E M A N (4)

In many ways, our gadgets have become invaluable travel companions. But with their proliferation come new opportunities for cybersecurity breaches—whether it’s using an insecure Wi-Fi hot spot to check your e-mail or losing a device as you move from place to place.

Unless you are carrying state or trade secrets, you are probably not a target for major espionage. But even the most leisurely of leisure travelers is

global head of security research at software developer Sophos, says that he routinely scopes out the computers at his hotels—and invariably finds them riddled with some sort of malware. At best, you may leave a trail of revealing crumbs from not logging out of websites or fully deleting files. At worst, someone could be recording your every keystroke and capturing your passwords and other sensitive information. Just printing out boarding passes can leave you exposed, Lyne says, as many airlines ask you to enter your name, birth date and even passport number.

Trip Doctor

The Fix

Have a question for T+L’s Trip Doctor?

Send it to tripdoctor @travelandleisureasia.com.

Follow @TravLeisureAsia on Twitter.

just as suspect. They can be used to lure you onto malicious websites or to track your movement online.

Your best bet is to travel with a personal Mi-Fi hot spot, which uses the cellular network to provide Wi-Fi to several of your devices. Or buy an annual subscription to a service such as Boingo (boingo.com), which offers access to more than 1 million verified hot spots around the world. (Global plans start at US$7.95 a month.) It’s also worth noting that cellular networks are (more or less) immune to hacking. Most service providers have reduced their data-roaming rates in recent years. (See “The Roaming Revolution,” page 81, for more.)

The unsecured network.

Even when you are logging onto a known network, including those provided by hotels and airports, don’t let your guard down. In 2012, the FBI warned that hackers were specifically targeting hotel Wi-Fi networks.

According to the cybersecurity experts I spoke with recently, that threat remains.

Check that the network offers some level of protection.

It should require a username and password and, according to Stephen Cobb, senior security researcher at antivirussoftware maker ESET, employ WPA2 encryption, instead of the less-secure WEP. (In Windows, hover your mouse over the network name to see which encryption it’s using; on Apple devices, look under “network preferences.”)

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private, use a virtual private network (VPN) service, which basically creates a separate channel within the larger network. Many companies use them for employees, but they’re becoming popular with individuals, too.

Boingo subscriptions include VPN service; Norton (hotspot.norton.com) sells day passes for just US$2.99.

some sort of “find my phone” service installed and activated on your mobile devices. If your phone or tablet goes missing, lock it, track it and change all your passwords immediately.

You also have the option of remotely wiping the device of all your data.

The social snoop.

Beware of oversharing on social media. You may have heard of thieves targeting houses whose owners publicize their absences online. Now there’s a new threat: “social engineering” attacks that use the information you share to gain your confidence, says Emilian Papadopoulous, chief of staff at Good Harbor Security Risk Management in Washington, D.C. One example: A person contacts you posing as an employee of a hotel you recently visited.

She asks for your credit card information to take care of some incidentals. You hand it over without a second thought. Remember this before you Instagram your way through your next trip. ✚

The missing device.

Whether it’s lost or stolen, a missing smartphone can be more than just a major inconvenience. These days, our phones contain reams of information about us in the form of calendars, e-mails and apps. Make sure you have

by the numbers

298

$

Average loss in US dollars per victim of cybercrime worldwide in 2013, a 51 percent increase year over year, according to the Norton Report.

HOW DO AIRLINES DECIDE WHO TO BUMP? Each carrier makes its own rules regarding who gets boarding priority when a flight is oversold or over capacity because of a change in aircraft.

After looking for volunteers to give up their seats, some carriers bump those who checked in last; others start with passengers in the lowest fare class.

All of them give priority to people in special circumstances: those whose trips would be severely delayed, travelers with disabilities, unaccompanied minors and (naturally) people in premier cabins or with elite loyalty-club status.

four more ways to keep yourself cybersecure 1 UPDATE YOUR SOFTWARE

This includes your operating system, antivirus protection and Web browser— and applies to both laptops and mobile devices. Those app updates you’ve been ignoring could have security fixes.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

2

3

4

BACK IT UP

WATCH WHERE YOU SURF

MAKE PASSWORDS LONG AND STRONG

Only enter personal information on websites that have the prefix “https,” which signals deeper encryption.

And take advantage of the two-step verification measures that an increasing number of sites are offering. You enter one password online; another, temporary one is sent to you via SMS.

Use external storage to keep copies of your most valuable data in case your mobile device or laptop goes missing. And erase from your hard drive any sensitive files that you don’t need while traveling.

slh.com

S31 Sukhumvit Hotel

s31 hotel

Central Reservation No. 02 260 1111

Asoke

Sukhumvit Road

Trip Doctor

Packing

by Mimi Lombardo

Q+A I’M HEADING TO SYDNEY FOR A BUSINESS TRIP. I WANT CASUAL CLOTHES FOR DOWNTIME, BUT DON’T HAVE A LOT OF ROOM IN MY SUITCASE. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

2

1 The ideal men’s travel suit is made of a stretch fabric that doesn’t compromise fit, such as Gucci’s cotton version, shown throughout (suit by Gucci; shirt, Thomas Pink; tie, Robert Talbott; shoes, Tommy Hilfiger; belt, A.P.C.).

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Wear your suit jacket over a henley shirt and chinos to quickly upgrade a relaxed look. Suede chukka-style sneakers work with jeans or trousers (shirt by Vince; pants, Bonobos; shoes, Vince; belt, A.P.C.).

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

3 Pair suit pants with a button-down and a lightweight sweater for a laid-back, yet pulledtogether outfit (sweater

by Armani Exchange; shirt, Ernest Alexander; shoes, Vince).

P HOTOG R A P H ED BY W ESTON W EL L S

M A R K E T E D I T O R : C O U R T N E Y K E N E F I C K . G R O O M E R : K I R A S T R U G E R . M O D E L : N AT H A N L O W R Y/ F U S I O N M O D E L S

Use your office attire to your advantage­—it can be surprisingly versatile when pieces are worn separately. Here, one suit, three ways.

Trip Doctor

Strategies

BEST 95 E H T

Travel Apps+Websites With more than 100,000 travel apps now available, finding the right ones can be a daunting task. Here are T+L’s top tools for smarter globe-trotting, all tested by tech correspondent Tom Samiljan. Illustrated by Quickhoney

STEP 1

Plan Your Trip Tackle complex itineraries and get the most bang for your buck, without the headache.

FIND ROCK-BOTTOM FARES

Adioso

Free; Web only Don’t know where you want to go?

This flexible search tool lets you browse airfares by continent, country, region or type of trip (say, adventure) to find deals that fill the bill. The site also delivers inspiration in the form of “Wanderlists,” which show you what it might cost to

SEAT GURU

get to the best cities for art lovers (London; Japan) or top beach destinations (Bali; Boracay), among other categories.

T+L Tip You can shop Adioso with specific dates in mind, though you can also look for departures “any Friday” or “sometime this fall.”

pick a pain-free flight

Routehappy

Free; iOS Cheap tickets can come with high hassle factors (impossibly short connections; multiple stops).

Enter Routehappy, which uses “Happiness” scores to prioritize

itineraries that are shorter, have the simplest layover logistics and the best prices. Its user-friendly design makes it easy to see the benefits of each route and book your favorite in just a few taps.

track fares

Yapta

Free; iOS Not only does this scrappy site watch your airfares and alert you when the price drops but it also monitors your ticket (or hotel) after you’ve booked, up to the day you depart. Should it fall further, Yapta automatically helps you secure any rebates you’re eligible for; the average user saves US$335 annually.

Runner-up Trip Watcher

COMPARE VACATION PACKAGES

Kayak

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone The flight aggregator you know and love has a new feather in its cap: the package search now lets you know whether bundled deals for airfare and hotels are actually more affordable than the sum of their parts. Make reservations directly on Kayak, or click through to third-party providers­; the site that offers the best price will be shown front and center.

T+L Tip Kayak’s app includes loads of valuable extras, such as an itinerary manager, a flight tracker and a currency converter.

Runners-up Momondo, GetGoing

DON ’ T END UP IN A BAD SEAT

SeatGuru

Free; Android, iOS News flash: you don’t have to pay for a costly upgrade to get extra legroom on your next flight. SeatGuru’s search tool lets you look for seats with maximum pitch, power outlets, in-flight entertainment and Wi-Fi. Want to shop like a pro?

Check the site’s plane charts before booking your ticket to make BOARDING PASS sure you’re not sacrificing precious inches for a slightly lower fare.

T+L Tip If the best spots on the plane are unavailable, try Seat Alerts

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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

A

t the racha, many guests never want to leave. and they don’t.

Many of our guests tell us that memories of The Racha stay on with them, long after they depart.

grand pool suites offer unparalleled privacy and are a favourite among visiting celebrities.

Season after season, our staff delight in welcoming familiar faces back to our island resort.

Some guests return for the care and friendship of the staff. Others to indulge again in the resort’s many creature comforts - from basking in sunlit ozonated pools, to enjoying The Racha’s eco-chic villas and strolling the resort’s twenty acre grounds. Many guests return to soak in the beauty and magic of Racha Yai island, rated as one of the Andaman Sea’s most beautiful.

At The Racha, when we say “we hope to see you soon again” to our guests, we often do. www.theracha.com

X O

P R I VAT E

Enjoy your 3rd night free with every 2 paid nights (Pool Villa Free Nights Hot Deals) for selected pool villas*. For stays until 31st October 2014 at www.theracha.com.

A menber of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

• T H E R A C H A I S P R O U D TO B E A NO M I N E E I N T H E W OR L D L U X U R Y HOT E L AWA R D S 2 0 1 4 • 85 luxurious villas • 3 ozonated pools (excluding private ones) • 3 signature dining establishments & bar

world-acclaimed anumba spa • club del mar for chilling • personalized sea and land experiences • to-die-for-views complimentary tel: 66 76 355 455 fax: 66 76 355 637 email: reservation@theracha.com www.theracha.com In accordance with Thai law, all beaches in Thailand are open to the public. * terms & conditions apply

Trip Doctor

Strategies

by ExpertFlyer (free; Android, iOS, Web). It e-mails you when better options open up on your scheduled departure.

track your status

Points.com

Free; Web only This site’s Loyalty Wallet manages all your rewards programs (airline, hotel, credit card and more) in real time, without requiring you to manually input recent statements.

Simply plug in your membership numbers and let the site do the rest.

LOOKING FOR YOU GUYS! It’ll even help you make smarter use of those hard-earned points, with special offers from travel companies and the option to roll over any soon-to-expire balances. The best part: Points is compatible with major international airlines like Cathay Pacific and Lufthansa.

ARE YOU?

WEIGH YOUR TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS

Rome2rio

Free; iOS To figure out how to get from point A to (even the remotest) point B, try this innovative travel planner.

It aggregates every possible method of transportation—flights, trains, local buses and even taxis—and offers time estimates for each leg of your journey. Browse the site and results will also include estimated prices.

get the skinny on your next cruise

Cruise Critic

Free; Web only We’ve long loved this site—a resource almost as old as the Web itself—for its professional reviews of seafaring companies, cabins, ports and even excursions. Also useful: Price Drop alerts, a new feature that monitors rates for sudden, significant discounts (we’ve seen up to 79 percent off). Deals cover luxury and affordable lines alike, and are valid whether you’re booking in advance or planning on the fly.

T+L Tip For ideas for your next cruise, turn to T+L’s Cruise Finder (cruises.travelandleisure.com).

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AIR BNB

BOOK ACTIVITIES abroad

Viator

Free; Android, iOS Want to skip the line for tickets to the Eiffel Tower or take a Game of Thrones tour in Malta? Try Viator, which lets you find and reserve excursions in more than 1,500 locations across the globe.

No need to print out tickets, either, thanks to integration with iPhone’s Passbook.

T+L Tip A database of 1,300-plus culinary outings makes Viator especially great for roving foodies.

Runners-up Get Your Guide, Peek

KEEP TRACK OF YOUR ITINERARY

Worldmate Gold

US$9.99; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Competition among travel managers is fierce, but Worldmate Gold stands out for its attractive layout, accurate flight information and unrivaled ability to manage complicated trips. The app is impressively autonomous: it organizes flights, hotel bookings, restaurant reservations, rentals and more with little prompting, and scouts for better rates any time you upload a hotel reservation.

Runners-up TripIt Pro, Tripcase

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

STEP 2

Book Your Stay No need to agonize over finding the perfect room.

These tools optimize style and value, even at the last minute.

RENT A PIED-À-TERRE— OR AN ISLAND

Airbnb

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone What started as a glorified couch-surfing tool has evolved into a game-changing network of ultrahip stays—roughly 600,000 of them, ranging from swank apartments in Singapore to ski chalets in the South Korea, many now available for instant booking.

T+L Tip For last-minute escapes, look for the site’s new Weekend Getaways section, which collects listings in easy-to-reach destinations.

Runners-up HomeAway, Tripping, Villas.com

PAY FOR YOUR ROOM WHEN YOU GET THERE

Booking.com

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Most hotel discount sites make you front cash (or at least a credit card number) to get a deal—not so with Booking.com, which often lets you lock in a price and pay when you arrive (or cancel without penalty).

Trip Doctor

Strategies

Your options include hotels, B&B’s, guesthouses, villas and more, each with a score that factors in value, cleanliness, location and comfort. Bonus: call the customer service hotline and you’ll be connected to attentive, helpful staffers—not endless voiceactivated menus and recordings.

stay in the right part of town

Hipmunk

Free; Android, iOS Hipmunk’s legendary “Agony Index” sorts airfares based on their pain points, but its hotel search flips the script, highlighting “Ecstasy,” a sweet spot that considers value, amenities, star rating and user reviews. Refine the results by asking for hotels in a certain neighborhood or near a particular attraction.

Don’t know which area lays claim to the best restaurants or nightlife?

Consult Hipmunk’s “Heatmaps” for a quick, color-coded lay of the land.

BOOK A LAST-MINUTE ROOM

But you don’t have to be a member to benefit from its database of 290,000 hotels worldwide and a no-frills, low-​price guarantee.

Runner-up Orbitz

HotelTonight

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone If you need a place to stay right now, you won’t have time to comb through hundreds of options.

HotelTonight cuts the clutter, with curated collections of “Hip,” “Solid” or “Luxe” properties in North America, Central and South America and Europe, and lets you book as late as 2 a.m. on the night you’re checking in. Stay for one night, or up to five—ideal for spontaneous layovers or getaways.

EARN A FREE STAY FASTER

Hotels.com

NAME YOUR PRICE

Priceline

61%

of affluent travelers use mobile apps to plan a trip, according to data from Google.

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Online Travel Agencies are in an arms race to create the best loyalty program for travelers, and Hotels.com is in the lead. Its Welcome Rewards offers a free hotel night for every 10 booked through the service, plus exclusive deals and bonuses for simply writing reviews.

BOARDING PASS

BOARDING PASS

BOARDING PASS

PUT IT ON HOLD

OUTSOURCE

YOUR SEARCH, YOUR WAY

Lock down a good price when you see it with Options Away (free; iOS), which reserves a specific fare for up to 21 days, for a charge of US$4 to US$45. Level Skies (Web only) is similar, tacking on between US$20 to US$50 to guarantee your fare for up to a month. One caveat: the site conceals your full itinerary details until after you’ve booked.

Tell FlightFox (Web only) what you’re looking for— a rock-bottom ticket to Europe; a round-the-world itinerary—and a team of travel experts will find it (from US$49). They’ll even search for fares that help you affordably fulfill your annual loyalty status requirements.

Geneo (free; iOS) asks travelers questions about their travel preferences, and uses the information to deliver customized search results. Google Flight Search (Web only), meanwhile, puts a series of killer moves on an otherwise traditional engine: it lets you sort by carrier alliances (for amassing miles) and returns results in less than one second. Seriously.

WHERE ARE YOU?

ERE ARE YOU?

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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

see what travelers are saying

TripAdvisor

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone The 150 million-plus reviews cover 4 million hotels, attractions, flights and more. Best picks for each city can be downloaded as City Guides.

Meanwhile, the site’s acquisition of LaFourchette, a European restaurant booking service, has recently opened the door for one-click dinner reservations.

T+L Tip For advice on specific rooms to book, try Room77 (free; Android, iOS).

FLIGHT SEARCH, 2.0 A handful of new and improved air travel sites are making it clear that it pays to think outside the box.

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Nobody has been able to beat Priceline at its signature game: with Name Your Own Price, you can save up to 60 percent on hotel rooms, airfares and even rental cars.

Determine what you want to pay, enter your credit card details, and wait to see if your offer is accepted.

T+L Tip Express Deals—Priceline’s take on blind bookings—features the deepest discounts; use TheBiddingTraveler (Web only) to figure out what’s behind the curtain.

Runner-up Hotwire

don ’ t overpay

Tingo

Free; Web only Use its search tool to make your room reservation, and the site will automatically get you a better rate at the same hotel, or notify you about upgrades, should either become available. The odds are in your favor: the average rebate comes out to US$50 per night.

T+L Tip Want to see how low the rate can go? Submit your booking to BackBid (Web only), where comparable hotels bid to beat the price of your refundable booking.

STEP 3

Get There Delays. Traffic.

Impending storms. Sidestep the bumps in the road with these digital lifesavers.

LIFE 360

WHERE ARE YOU?

KNOW YOUR FLIGHT STATUS

Flight+

US$3.99; iOS Automatic notifications for delays and gate changes? Check. Maps and weather updates for airports around the globe? Check. Live flight boards for thousands of routes?

Check. This flight-tracking app is as comprehensive as they come.

T+L Tip Not on iOS? All the above details are available via a trio of multi-platform apps: FlightAware (free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone), GateGuru (free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone) and Flight board (US$3.99; Android, iOS).

FIND AN AIRPORT OASIS

LoungeBuddy

Free; Android, iOS If you need a shower, unlimited Wi-Fi or a work space during your layover, this app lets you know what free and pay-as-yougo lounges are available in more than 500 airports worldwide.

Users can sort results by access credentials, price and specific amenities. (Our favorite: free cocktails.)

I’M HERE!

I’M LOST

stay entertained

Amazon Instant Video

Free; Android, iOS The superstore’s Netflix-like service, free for anyone with a subscription to Amazon Prime, will keep you busy on long hauls. Keep in mind that, for now, you can only watch streaming media in the U.S., U.K., Germany and Japan.

T+L Tip Use Amazon Instant Video in tandem with the Kindle app (free; Android, iOS) for the most robust entertainment system under one (digital) roof.

skip the car-rental counter

Relay Rides

Free; Android, iOS Like an Airbnb for wheels, this

THE ROAMING REVOLUTION Before you stock up on this year’s best travel apps, make sure you’re up-to-date on how to roam intelligently.

U.S. CARRIER CHANGES

TRACKING APPS

NOT-SO-TOUGH CALLS

T-Mobile now includes unlimited data roaming in more than 120 countries as part of its Simple Choice plans. Also included: free SMS messages and phone calls for just 20 US cents per minute. AT&T and Verizon Wireless have deals with add-on data plans that start at US$30 for 120MB—more than enough for basic needs.

Most phones now have built-in trackers that monitor your roaming usage, but you can also use third-party apps such as My Data Manager (free; Android, iOS) and Onavo Count (free; Android, iOS) to get notifications. In some cases, it can even shut off your data as soon as you hit certain limits, giving you maximum peace of mind.

If you have a local SIM card, download Ringo (free; Android, iOS) to save on international phone calls.

It uses local networks to deliver clear sound without any audio delays and rates as low as 0.003 US cents per minute, 25 percent cheaper than competitors.

Don’t have an unlocked phone? Buy one abroad for as little as US$15.

LOOKING FOR YOU GUYS!

service lets you rent privately owned vehicles, often more affordably than traditional rentals (insurance is equally fair-priced). If you are lucky you may land a new Fiat 500. The catch? This app is currently only available in the United States, but similar services, like Singapore’s iCarsClub (Web only), are popping up in Asia.

Runner-up GetAround

navigate the roads

Google Maps

Free; Android, iOS Google Maps has become the best navigation app around, allowing you to pull up addresses with voice commands and turn-by-turn directions with a single tap.

Real-time traffic info and lane guidance assist drivers; straphangers can see the last train departure of the day. Biking? Google Maps can offer the fastest routes on streets that won’t be too steep. This smart app really is full service.

T+L Tip Try downloading content for offline reference by using the voice command “Okay, Maps.”

Runners-up Here, Navigon

keep tabs on friends and family

Life 360

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Sharing your exact location in real time may sound creepy, but trust us: it can really come in handy, especially when traveling with a group. You can split up and reconvene with friends, keep tabs on your kids, or let your hosts

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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know when to expect you. Only those you’ve designated can see where you are on a map, and you can turn off location tracking at any time.

Runner-up Glympse

master the local trains

Transit App

Free; Android, iOS Our new favorite way to decode local transit options offers comprehensive subway, train and bus directions in 65-plus cities throughout North America and Europe. Why we like it?

Accurate walking times, automatic detection of your current location, and timetables that help you decide when to leave in order to catch the next bus or train.

Runner-up HopStop

FIELD TRIP

STEP 4

Explore and Enjoy You made it!

Now use your digital smarts to get the most out of each day away.

don ’ t get caught in the rain

The Weather Channel

Free; all platforms* Thanks to a recent redesign, this app is easier than ever to navigate: current weather is at your fingertips, along with hourly and 10-day forecasts and motionbased radar maps. Pollen indexes and airport conditions are handy extras for iPhone users.

Runners-up Accuweather, Yahoo Weather

stay connected on the go

Boingo Wi-Finder

From US$7.95 a month; Android, iOS Get a subscription to more than a million global hot spots, and you’ll never have to pay for pricey in-room Wi-Fi again. The app detects the nearest Boingo-friendly networks— and helps you connect securely.

T+L Tip This summer, American Express began offering free Boingo access to its Platinum cardholders (enroll at amex.boingo.com).

get your culture fix

Eventseeker

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone Plenty of guides tell you which museums and attractions you should put on your bucket list; this app pinpoints specific exhibitions, concerts, food festivals and shows that are worth your while.

Runners-up Fantrotter, Museums of the World

ditch the tour guide

Field Trip

Free; Android, iOS Google’s latest discovery tool finds under-the-radar spots that align

with your interests, from restaurants to landmarks­. The recommendations—amassed from hundreds of sources including Cool Hunting, Zagat and Atlas Obscura—appear as push notifications; tell the app what you’re passionate about for tailored suggestions.

T+L Tip Score up to 50 percent off at local restaurants and stores thanks to integrated deals from Scoutmob.

FIND THE NEAREST ANYTHING

Yelp

Free; all platforms Despite some outdated listings, Yelp is still the fastest way to pinpoint the nearest ATM, pizzeria, market or coffee shop in more than 25 countries from Turkey to New Zealand. And now, thanks to the acquisition of Seat Me, users can make restaurant reservations straight from the site or app.

Runner-up Poynt

Access maps internationally

Maplets

US$2.99; Android, iOS From subway maps to ski trails or bike routes, this nifty app offers 10,000 PDF-style maps that store locally on your phone (meaning no Wi-Fi or GPS is required).

Runner-up City Maps 2Go

*The “all platforms” designation includes Android, BlackBerry, iOS and Windows Phone.

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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

Trip Doctor

Strategies

GET A ride ANYWHERE Free; Android, iOS The pioneering e-hail car service is now available in more than 35 countries and in cities large and small. Instantly order a taxi, black car or SUV, and pay with a pre-registered credit card. Then watch your driver’s GPS position in real time while you wait.

Runner-up Lyft

WhatsApp

Free; all platforms Use your Wi-Fi connection (rather than data roaming) to send unlimited texts, images, audio messages and videos to WhatsApp users worldwide. The service is free for your first year, and US$0.99 annually thereafter.

Runner-up Viber, Line

FIND A DOCTOR ABROAD

mPassport

UNDERSTAND THE LOCALS

Google Translate

Free; Android, iOS No translation service is perfect, but Google’s comes close. Type or speak a phrase into your phone, and the app will deliver a translation.

It’s compatible with a whopping 81 languages (including those that are character-based), and downloadable packs are available for offline use (on Android only).

Runners-up Jibbigo, iTranslate

LEAVE THE RIGHT tip

Tipping Tips

text your friends for free

suggestions for bellmen, housekeeping staff, waiters and taxi drivers in more than 108 countries and regions around the world. Also included: gratuity guides for cruise ships and calculators that help you split the check up to eight ways.

Runner-up Global Tipping Guide

Uber

US$0.99; iOS Few things confuse travelers as much as tipping—and with good reason. This cheat sheet demystifies the practice, with gratuity

Free; Android, iOS, Kindle All of the 6,700-plus vetted doctors on this global, searchable database are guaranteed to speak English, reducing the stress of getting sick while on the road. It’s free with an HTH Travel Insurance policy, or US$34.95 for an annual subscription—better safe than sorry.

stay in touch

Skype

39.5

$

billion

The amount in US dollars experts say will be spent on mobile travel bookings in 2015, according to PhoCusWright.

Free; all platforms How does Skype consistently beat its many rivals? Availability on all major platforms, compatibility with regular phone numbers, and seamless integration with a wide array of devices, from phones and tablets to laptops and SmartTV’s.

Runners-up FaceTime, Google Hangouts, Rebtel

STORIES

QWIKI

PICFRAME

MOLDIV

Free; via Google+

Free; iOS

US$0.99; Android, iOS

Free; Android, iOS

Back up your photos to Google+, and you’ll automatically get Stories. Google’s take on the digital travelogue combines images, videos and mapping info to bring your vacation to life, even making note of sites you visited on your trip.

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Simply hit the “create” button, and Qwiki will find your best photos and videos, geo-tag them, and stitch them into a short film. Add a personal touch with captions and music, swap photos as you see fit, and share away.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

medium

How to share multiple images without overloading your Instagram feed? Use PicFrame.

It has adjustable frames and high-res photo storage, and lets you make a composite shot of up to nine images.

US$9.99 per month; Android, iOS, Windows Phone You can stream anything from the 20 million–plus song catalogue for free, but we love Spotify’s premium service, which lets you download high-quality tracks for offline entertainment—without the pesky ads.

T+L Tip Use Shazam (free; Android, iOS) to identify songs you discover abroad—K-pop, anyone?— then add them to Spotify playlists.

Runner-up Pandora

Instagram

TELL YOUR TRAVEL STORY

easy

Spotify

SHARE YOUR TRAVEL SNAPS

These new apps help you turn mobile snaps into slideshows, magazine-like features and customizable collages—all with a few quick swipes (if that).

easy

LISTEN TO ANYTHING, ANYWHERE

hard

If the layouts in T+L’s pages inspire you, try making your own with Moldiv. The app’s templates include faux magazine covers and slick montages; get creative with headlines and captions in 250plus fonts.

Free; Android, iOS, Windows Phone With more than 200 million users, Instagram has become a ubiquitous tool for editing and sharing photos and short videos on the fly. A new feature: Instagram Direct lets you send photos and clips to a limited audience of your choosing, rather than posting to your public feed.

manage YOUR PICS

Flickr

Free; Android, iOS Consider it your one-stop shop for photos: recently upgraded to be faster and more streamlined, Flickr is the best tool for touching up, storing and broadcasting snapshots from your travels.

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Runner-up Carousel ✚

An extravagant World Premiere of Mozart’s most popular opera.

DON GIOVANNI TEATRO LIRICO ITALIANO OF ROME AND MACEDONIA OPERA, ITALY

Saturday 13 September 7.30pm

Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500 Supported by Embassy of Italy

“Here’s what we call an international talent!”

Time Out

MARIO FRANGOULIS & GEORGE PERRIS LIVE IN CONCERT, GREECE Saturday 4 October 7.30pm

Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800

Hotline 02 262 3191 www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)

www.bangkokfestivals.com

VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm

Trip Doctor

Deals

T+L RE A D E R S PECI A LS

THIS MONTH’S BEST DEALS From a wave-riding surf school to an amphibious-jeep island tour to a pool-side music fest, these offers will liven up your summer. sp ec i a l thailand bt9,999 p e r n igh t

Beach THAILAND Summer at Regent Club from Regent Phuket Cape Panwa (regenthotels.com), with a hilltop spa that overlooks the Andaman Sea. The Deal A stay in a Sea View Pool villa. The Highlight Regent Club benefits including private breakfast, afternoon tea and pre-dinner cocktails. Cost From Bt9,999 for Thai citizens and residents, double, through September 30.

Savings 32 percent.

VIETNAM Discover Hoi An from Boutique Hoi An Resort (boutiquehoianresort.com), 82

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sea-view rooms and villas five minutes away from the historic trading hub. The Deal Two nights in a Superior room. The Highlight A Vietnamese lunch or dinner set at Le Café Restaurant for two people. Cost From US$302 (US$151 per night), double, through October 31. Savings 32 percent.

Active MALAYSIA The Luxury Golf Getaway from The Andaman (theandaman.com), situated between an ancient rainforest and Langkawi’s 8,000-year-old coral reef. The Deal Two nights

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

S u pe r S ave r

SINGAPORE Urban Studio special from Hotel Kai (hotelkai.com), restored pre-war shop houses in historic Civic District.

The Deal A stay in an Urban Studio.

The Highlight Complimentary use of a portable Wi-Fi device for island-wide 4G Internet access. Cost From S$150, double, through December 30.

Savings 64 percent.

in a Deluxe Rainforest room. The Highlight An 18-hole round of golf at Els Club Teluk Datai or a 50-minute, deep-tissue Golfer’s Massage to better performance.

Cost From RM3,053 (RM1,526 per night), double, through October 31. Savings 50 percent.

INDONESIA Meander the Mountains – Bali by VW Convertible from Backyard Travel (backyardtravel.com), Asia-travel specialist. The Deal Two nights’ accommodation. The Highlight A tour of Bali’s black lava field and active volcano, and experience of traditional Balinese lifestyle, all from a convenient

C O U R T ESY O F R EG EN T P H U K E T C A P E PA N WA

A Sea View Pool villa terrace at Regent Phuket Cape Panwa, in Thailand.

Trip Doctor

Deals Mandarin Oriental. Cost From RMB2,788, double, through October 31. Savings 50 percent.

THAILAND Spa Essence from Anantara Chiang Mai (chiangmai.anantara.com), a Thaicolonial sanctuary by the Mae Ping River. The Deal Three nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlights A 60-minute traditional Thai massage for two, and 20 percent discounts on additional treatments. Cost From Bt8,500 (Bt2,833 per night), double, through December 24. Savings 13 percent.

convertible VW amphibious jeep.

Cost From US$379 (US$126 per night), double, through August 31. Savings 10 percent.

THAILAND Surf and Spa package from Boathouse by Montara (boathousephuket.com), the ultimate beach experience, complete with a resort, restaurant and surfing school, on Phuket’s Kata Beach. The Deal Two nights in a Superior Seaview room. The Highlights A one-hour surf lesson for two at RE KÁ Ta Beach Club’s Quiksilver Surf School, plus an extra hour of post-lesson practice; a 40-minute Esthederm Intense After-Sun Care body treatment for two; and 15 percent discount at nearby Quiksilver shop. Cost From Bt15,380 (Bt7,690 per night), double, through September 30. Savings 23 percent.

Culture INDONESIA Bali & Beyond from Aman Resorts Indonesia (amanresorts.com), a group of intimate, less-is-more resorts in

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Bali, Central Java and Moyo Island.

The Deal A total of seven nights in at least two resorts: must select both one resort in Bali—choice of Amandari’s Village suite, Amankila’s Garden suite or Amanusa’s Garden suite—and one resort in Java or Moyo: choice of Amanwana’s Jungle Tent or Amanjiwo’s Garden suite. The Highlight A choice of one complimentary activity per resort, with options including a guided tour of Borobudur, a morning cruise of Lombok Strait and a private Balinese dance class. Cost From US$5,600 (US$800 per night), double, through April 30, 2015.

Savings 38 percent.

HONG KONG Summer Explore package from The Fleming (thefleming.com), a Wanchai hotel equipped with the latest technology for business travelers.

The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlight A two-person tour of Hong Kong’s famous sites, including Victoria Peak, Kowloon, Aberdeen fishing

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

village and Stanley Market. Cost HK$2,178 (HK$1,980 per night), double, through August 31.

Savings 30 percent.

TAIWAN SUN-KISSED Room package from W Taipei Hotel (wtaipei.com), in Xinyi district, where nightlife, entertainment and fashion merge. The Deal A stay in a Wonderful room.

The Highlight Entrance to SUN-KISSED DJ Music Festival pool parties, featuring more than 10 up-and-coming Taiwanese DJs, for guests who stay through Sundays. Cost From NT$11,800, double, through August 31. Savings 53 percent.

Spa CHINA Stay and Spa Escape from Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou (mandarinoriental. com), five minutes away from a Hong Kong-bound, high-speed railway station. The Deal A stay in a Club Mandarin room. The Highlight Oriental Essence massage for two at Spa by

Romance CAMBODIA Borei Romance package from Borei Angkor Resort & Spa (boreiangkor.com), with royal Angkor-style interior, seven minutes from Angkor Wat. The Deal Three nights in a Borei suite. The Highlights Four hours of body-pampering treatments including acupressure massage and body wrap for two at Mudita Spa. Cost US$280 (US$93 per night), double, through March 31, 2015.

Savings 50 percent.

THAILAND Bangkok Romance package from Banyan Tree Bangkok (banyantree.com), a 61-story property famous for its helipad-turned-Vertigo Grill and Moon Bar. The Deal Two nights in a Banyan Tree Club room. The Highlights Riverside Thai dinner at Apsara, and 30 percent discount on all non-beauty treatments at Banyan Tree Spa. Cost From Bt30,000 (Bt15,000 per night), double, through December 21.

Savings 40 percent. ✚

C O U R T E S Y O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L , J A K A R TA

A Superior room at Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta.

INDONESIA Urban Escape from Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta (mandarinoriental.com), 272 spacious rooms in the embassy district. The Deal A stay in a Superior room. The Highlight An hour of Royal Javanese or Balinese massage at the Fitness and Wellness Centre for one person. Cost From US$210, double, through December 30.

Savings 40 percent.

Perk up the day with Nespresso Grand Crus and an assortment of teas Chill out and grab some refreshments from the in-room minibar Get connected with high-speed internet access on multiple devices Inhale the fresh air in our 100% smoke-free hotel Keep fit in our 24-hour gymnasium Asia Pacific’s Best Independent Hotel since 2007

by TTG Travel Awards Best Buffet Restaurant since 2009 • Carousel

by AsiaOne People’s Choice Awards Certificate of Excellence 2014

by TripAdvisor Best Employer 2013

by Aon Hewitt

mystery deal

Scan to enjoy the best rates

25 Scotts Road Singapore 228220 www.royalplaza.com.sg Tel: (65) 6737 7966 Fax: (65) 6737 6646 Email: royal@royalplaza.com.sg

Southern Ocean Lodge, on Kangaroo Island, Australia, the No. 1 resort in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific this year.

We asked T+L readers to rate everything from hotels and airlines to cruises and destinations.

The result? A definitive guide to the places and companies that are shaping travel now.

H UG H ST E WA R T

E D I T E D BY J E N N I F E R F L O W E R S , W I T H B R O O K E P O R T E R K ATZ A N D M A R G U E R I T E A . S U OZ Z I

CONTACT INFORMATION FOR ALL LISTED PROPERTIES AND COMPANIES IS AVAILABLE AT TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM.

TOP CITIES TOP 10 OVERALL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Kyoto Japan 90.21 Charleston South Carolina 90.18 Florence 89.99 Siem Reap Cambodia 89.82 Rome 89.61 Istanbul 89.58 Seville Spain 89.28 Barcelona 89.18 Mexico City 89.07 New Orleans 88.74

ASIA

C H I A R A S A LV A D O R I /G E T T Y I M A G E S

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Kyoto Japan 90.21 Siem Reap Cambodia 89.82 Bangkok 88.32 Tokyo 85.35 Hong Kong 84.89 Shanghai 83.56 Hanoi Vietnam 82.77 Xi’an China 82.48 Beijing 81.61 Singapore 81.29

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC 1 Sydney 88.39 2 Melbourne 85.53 3 Queenstown New Zealand 84.89

EUROPE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Florence 89.99 Rome 89.61 Istanbul 89.58 Seville Spain 89.28 Barcelona 89.18 Budapest 88.39 Prague 88.27 Siena Italy 87.51 Paris 87.15 Edinburgh 87.13

UNITED STATES AND CANADA

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Charleston South Carolina 90.18 New Orleans 88.74 Savannah Georgia 88.30 San Francisco 87.53 Chicago 87.21 Vancouver 86.71 Santa Fe New Mexico 86.68

8 Quebec City 86.51 9 New York City 86.26 10 Boston 85.69

MEXICO, AND CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Mexico City 89.07 Cuzco Peru 87.63 Buenos Aires 83.75 Puerto Vallarta Mexico 81.84 Rio de Janeiro 81.08 Santiago Chile 79.12 Lima Peru 78.76 Playa del Carmen Mexico 78.56 Los Cabos Mexico 77.97 Cancún Mexico 75.17

AFRICA AND THE MIDDLE EAST

1 2 3 4 5

Land of the setting sun: Kiyomizu-dera temple in Kyoto, a first-time winner of World’s Best City.

Throughout the World’s Best Awards, scores shown have been rounded to the nearest hundredth of a point; in the event of a true tie, properties, companies or destinations share the same ranking.

World’s Best Awards debut New Category Great Value (rate of US$250 or less) Hall of Fame (listed every year for the past decade)

Jerusalem 88.47 Cape Town 88.41 Tel Aviv 84.70 Marrakesh Morocco 83.22 Cairo 79.89

NO. 1 CITY OVERALL

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DARREN SOH

In Terminal 3 at Singapore Changi Airport.

TOP AIRLINES WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2014

NO. 1 INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

INTERNATIONAL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Singapore Airlines 91.54 Emirates Airline 88.18 Cathay Pacific Airways 86.86 Virgin Atlantic Airways 85.21 Asiana Airlines 85.00 Qatar Airways 84.61 ANA (All Nippon Airways) 84.48 Thai Airways International 84.07 Korean Air 83.75 Air New Zealand 83.59

TOP AIRPORTS INTERNATIONAL 1 Singapore Changi Airport 92.27 2 Hong Kong International Airport 85.64 3 Dubai International United Arab Emirates 84.97 4 Incheon International Airport Seoul 82.87 5 Zurich Airport Switzerland 80.86

TOP CAR-RENTAL AGENCIES

1 2 3 4 5

National Car Rental 80.53 Enterprise Rent-A-Car 79.39 Hertz Rent A Car 78.53 Avis Car Rental 77.73 Alamo 76.47

TOP SAFARI OUTFITTERS

1 2 3 4 5

Rothschild Safaris 97.95 Africa Adventure Company 96.67 Micato Safaris 96.40 Wilderness Safaris 92.79 andBeyond 89.42

TOP TOUR OPERATORS 1 Classic Journeys 97.09 2 VBT Bicycling & Walking Vacations 96.67 3 Butterfield & Robinson 96.39 4 Wilderness Travel 94.41 5 Tauck 94.15

TOP SPAS TOP DESTINATION SPAS OVERALL 1 Rancho La Puerta Tecate, Mexico 95.83 2 Mii Amo Spa, a Destination Spa at Enchantment Resort Sedona, Arizona 94.34 3 Lodge at Woodloch, a Destination Spa Resort Hawley, Pennsylvania 93.54 4 Lake Austin Spa Resort Texas 92.48 5 Sundara Inn & Spa Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin 91.60 6 Canyon Ranch in Lenox Massachusetts 88.00 6 Miraval Resort & Spa Tucson, Arizona 88.00

8 Canyon Ranch in Tucson Arizona 85.27 9 Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa in Miami Beach 83.33 10 Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa & Resort Santa Fe, New Mexico 82.55

TOP HOTEL SPAS OVERALL 1 St. Regis Aspen Resort Colorado 97.33 2 The Peninsula Bangkok 97.08 3 Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico 96.40 4 Inn at Palmetto Bluff, a Montage Resort Bluffton, South Carolina 96.21 5 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens La Fortuna, Costa Rica 96.15 6 The Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 96.00 6 Jamaica Inn Ocho Rios, Jamaica 96.00 8 Cavallo Point Lodge—The Lodge at the Golden Gate Sausalito, California 95.78 9 Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa Paradise Valley, Arizona 95.75 10 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris 95.58

TOP 5 HOTEL SPAS, ASIA

TOP 3 HOTEL SPAS, HAWAII

1 The Peninsula Bangkok 97.08 2 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Chiang Rai, Thailand 94.29 3 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 92.25 4 Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 92.00 5 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 90.40

1 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui 95.33 2 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Hawaii, the Big Island 93.14 3 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 92.87

TOP HOTEL SPA, AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC

TOP 3 HOTEL SPAS, THE CARIBBEAN, BERMUDA AND THE BAHAMAS

1 Four Seasons Resort Bora-Bora, French Polynesia 91.56

1 Jamaica Inn Ocho Rios, Jamaica 96.00 2 The BodyHoliday St. Lucia 95.50 3 Reefs Resort & Club Bermuda 94.86

TOP HOTEL SPAS, EUROPE 1 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris 95.58 2 Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts 86.55

TOP 5 HOTEL SPAS, CONTINENTAL U.S. 1 St. Regis Aspen Resort Colorado 97.33 2 Inn at Palmetto Bluff, a Montage Resort Bluffton, South Carolina 96.21 3 The Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 96.00 4 Cavallo Point Lodge—The Lodge at the Golden Gate Sausalito, California 95.78 5 Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa Paradise Valley, Arizona 95.75

TOP HOTEL SPA, CANADA 1 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler, British Columbia 93.82

TOP 5 HOTEL SPAS, MEXICO, AND CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA 1 Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico 96.40 2 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens La Fortuna, Costa Rica 96.15 3 Capella Pedregal Los Cabos, Mexico 95.29 4 St. Regis Punta Mita Resort Mexico 94.78 5 Maroma Resort & Spa Riviera Maya, Mexico 94.57

TOP HOTEL SPA, AFRICA AND THE MIDDLE EAST 1 Cape Grace Cape Town 84.36

NO. 1 HOTEL SPA: HAWAII

T H AY E R A L LY S O N G O W D Y

Poolside at Hawaii’s top spa, the Fairmont Kea Lani, on Maui.

TOP ISLANDS TOP 10 OVERALL 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Santorini Greece 89.98 Maui Hawaii 89.51 Kauai Hawaii 88.59 Hawaii, the Big Island 87.89 Bali Indonesia 86.82 Oahu Hawaii 86.71 Galápagos Ecuador 86.37 Virgin Gorda British Virgin Islands 86.22 9 Vancouver Island Canada 86.20 10 San Juan Islands Washington 85.78

ASIA

CONTINENTAL U.S. AND CANADA

1 Bali Indonesia 86.82

1 Vancouver Island British Columbia 86.20 2 San Juan Islands Washington 85.78 3 Prince Edward Island Canada 84.29 4 Mackinac Island Michigan 84.24 5 Kiawah Island South Carolina 83.61

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC 1 Fiji 84.64 2 Great Barrier Reef Australia 84.51 3 Moorea French Polynesia 84.51 4 Bora-Bora French Polynesia 82.08 5 Raiatea French Polynesia 80.15

EUROPE

1 2 3 4 5

Santorini Greece 89.98 Capri Italy 85.36 Crete Greece 84.30 Sicily Italy 84.26 Mykonos Greece 82.55

HAWAII

1 2 3 4 5

Maui 89.51 Kauai 88.59 Hawaii, the Big Island 87.89 Oahu 86.71 Lanai 83.76

THE CARIBBEAN, BERMUDA AND THE BAHAMAS 1 Virgin Gorda British Virgin Islands 86.22 2 Exumas Bahamas 84.22 3 St. John U.S. Virgin Islands 83.95 4 Bermuda 83.33 5 St. Lucia 82.51

MEXICO, AND CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA

1 2 3 4 5

Galápagos Ecuador 86.37 Ambergris Cay Belize 83.00 Cozumel Mexico 81.50 Roatán Honduras 80.10 Isla Mujeres Mexico 78.99

NO. 1 ISLAND: ASIA

WORLD’S BEST AWARDS

CHRISTOPHER WISE

2014

Seaside at Finn’s Beach Club, in Uluwatu, Bali.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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THE TOP 100 HOTELS 1 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 97.44 2 Nayara Springs La Fortuna, Costa Rica 97.00 3 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest 96.91 4 Southern Ocean Lodge Kangaroo Island, Australia 96.27 5 Ocean House Watch Hill, Rhode Island 96.20 6 The Langham Chicago 96.00 7 Singita Sabi Sand Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 95.82 8 Londolozi Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 95.80 9 Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur, India 95.76 10 Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, India 95.75 11 Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong 95.67 12 Lodge at Sea Island Golf Club Georgia 95.58 13 The Peninsula Bangkok 95.47 14 Post Ranch Inn Big Sur, California 95.47 15 Capella Pedregal Los Cabos, Mexico 95.25

16 St. Regis Punta Mita Resort Mexico 95.22 17 Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza, Argentina 95.20 18 Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet 95.15 19 Singita Kruger National Park South Africa 95.11 20 Brewery Gulch Inn Mendocino, California 95.00 21 Stein Eriksen Lodge Deer Valley, Utah 94.97 22 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Hawaii, the Big Island 94.96 23 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens La Fortuna, Costa Rica 94.89 24 Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas 94.83 25 Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico 94.80 26 Planters Inn Charleston, South Carolina 94.78 27 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 94.71 28 Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 94.67 28 Farmhouse Inn Forestville, California 94.67 28 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 94.67

WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2014

NO. 1 HOTEL OVERALL

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T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

31 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 94.56 32 Rambagh Palace Jaipur, India 94.52 33 The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel New York City 94.48 33 Four Seasons Hotel Milano Milan 94.48 35 One&Only Palmilla Los Cabos, Mexico 94.44 36 Oberoi Amarvilas Agra, India 94.40 37 The Peninsula Hong Kong 94.34 38 Four Seasons Hotel, México, D.F. Mexico City 94.29 38 Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 94.29 40 Banyan Tree Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico 94.25 41 The Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 94.10 42 The Peninsula Shanghai 94.09 43 Castello di Casole­­—A Timbers Resort Casole d’Elsa, Italy 94.07 44 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Florence 94.00 45 Le Bristol Paris 93.93 46 Inn at Palmetto Bluff, a Montage Resort Bluffton, South Carolina 93.86 47 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 93.86

48 48 50 51 52 53 54 54 56 57 58 59 59 59

62 63 64 65 66 66

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 93.82 Ritz Paris 93.82 Four Seasons Hotel Prague 93.81 Cap Maison St. Lucia 93.75 White Elephant Hotel Nantucket, Massachusetts 93.68 Couples Sans Souci St. Mary, Jamaica 93.67 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris 93.58 French Quarter Inn Charleston, South Carolina 93.58 Inn at the Market Seattle 93.56 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Vail, Colorado 93.52 The Peninsula Chicago 93.52 Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao Luang Prabang, Laos 93.50 Four Seasons Resort Bora-Bora, French Polynesia 93.50 MalaMala Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 93.50 Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok 93.46 Cape Grace Cape Town 93.43 Palacio Duhau–Park Hyatt Buenos Aires 93.40 Ventana Inn & Spa Big Sur, California 93.36 Inn at Little Washington Washington, Virginia 93.33 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Vietnam 93.33

LY N N D O N A L D S O N

68 Blackberry Farm Walland, Tennessee 93.29 69 Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin 93.20 70 Wickaninnish Inn Tofino, British Columbia 93.12 71 The Lanesborough London 93.07 72 Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai 93.05 73 Le Blanc Spa Resort Cancún, Mexico 93.04 74 Shangri-La Hotel Vancouver 93.00 75 L’Auberge Carmel California 92.94 76 Reefs Resort & Club Bermuda 92.94 77 Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires 92.92 78 Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel Seville, Spain 92.90 79 Cavallo Point Lodge—The Lodge at the Golden Gate Sausalito, California 92.88 80 Villa d’Este Cernobbio, Italy 92.88 81 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler, British Columbia 92.87 82 The Ritz London 92.83 83 Auberge du Soleil Rutherford, California 92.81 84 Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris 92.76 85 Wentworth Mansion Charleston, South Carolina 92.76 86 Adare Manor Hotel & Golf Resort County Limerick, Ireland 92.75

87 Couples Tower Isle St. Mary, Jamaica 92.74 88 Las Ventanas al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort Los Cabos, Mexico 92.73 88 Mombo Camp and Little Mombo Camp (operated by Wilderness Safaris) Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana 92.73 90 Montage Laguna Beach, California 92.72 91 Park Hyatt (formerly Hotel de la Paix) Siem Reap, Cambodia 92.71 91 Nisbet Plantation Beach Club Nevis 92.71 93 Stafford London 92.70 94 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 92.64 95 Giraffe Manor Nairobi, Kenya 92.63 95 Halekulani Oahu, Hawaii 92.63 95 Stephanie Inn Hotel Cannon Beach, Oregon 92.63 98 The Sebastian Vail—A Timbers Resort Colorado 92.62 99 The Goring London 92.57 100 The Connaught London 92.55

THE TOP 10 HOTEL BRANDS 1 Amanresorts 94.64 2 Oberoi Hotels & Resorts 93.89 3 One&Only Resorts 93.42 4 Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts 92.62 5 Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group 92.18 6 Auberge Resorts 92.11 7 The Peninsula Hotels 92.06 8 Belmond (formerly Orient-Express Hotels) 92.05 9 St. Regis 91.32 10 Dorchester Collection 90.95

The 240-hectare Triple Creek Ranch, in Darby, Montana, a first-time No. 1 hotel overall.

CITY HOTELS 1 Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong 95.67 2 The Peninsula Bangkok 95.47 3 The Peninsula Hong Kong 94.34 4 The Peninsula Shanghai 94.09 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 93.82 6 Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok 93.46 7 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Vietnam 93.33 8 Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai 93.05 9 Park Hyatt (formerly Hotel de la Paix) Siem Reap, Cambodia 92.71 10 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 92.64 11 The Peninsula Manila 92.53

12 Mandarin Oriental Singapore 92.44 13 Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai 92.25 14 Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong 91.73 15 The Imperial New Delhi 91.58 16 Grand Hyatt Singapore 91.25 16 Taj Palace Hotel New Delhi 91.25 18 Westin Beijing Financial Street 91.00 19 Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai 90.96 20 Fullerton Hotel Singapore 90.44 21 Belmond Governor’s Residence Rangoon, Burma 90.12 22 The Peninsula Beijing 89.95 23 Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor Siem Reap, Cambodia 89.94 24 Park Hyatt Saigon Vietnam 89.74 25 Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok 89.65 26 The Oberoi New Delhi 89.60

27 Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai 89.56 28 The Oberoi Mumbai 89.20 29 Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong 88.69 30 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 88.67

RESORTS 1 Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur, India 95.76 2 Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, India 95.75 3 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 94.71 4 Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 94.67 4 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 94.67 6 Rambagh Palace Jaipur, India 94.52 7 Oberoi Amarvilas Agra, India 94.40 8 Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao

The Oberoi Udaivilas, in Udaipur, India.

Luang Prabang, Laos 93.50 9 Amansara Siem Reap, Cambodia 92.50 10 Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam 92.00 11 Shangri-La Hotel Guilin, China 89.57 12 Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay Indonesia 89.50 13 Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort Siem Reap, Cambodia 89.42 14 JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa Thailand 86.33 15 Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor Siem Reap, Cambodia 86.05

WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2014

NO. 1 RESORT: ASIA

DUSTIN AKSL AND

ASIA

NO. 1 RESORT: AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC

AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC C ITY HOTELS 1 2 3 4 5

The Langham Melbourne 91.50 Park Hyatt Sydney 91.18 InterContinental Sydney 87.43 Four Seasons Hotel Sydney 86.47 Shangri-La Hotel Sydney 86.27

RESORTS

COURTESY OF SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE

1 Southern Ocean Lodge Kangaroo Island, Australia 96.27 2 Four Seasons Resort Bora-Bora, French Polynesia 93.50 3 InterContinental Resort & Thalasso Spa Bora-Bora, French Polynesia 89.00 4 InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa French Polynesia 87.81 5 Shangri-La Hotel, The Marina Cairns, Australia 85.11

AFRICA AND THE MIDDLE EAST CITY HOTELS 1 Cape Grace Cape Town 93.43 2 Saxon Boutique Hotel, Villas, & Spa Johannesburg, South Africa 92.18 3 Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel Cape Town 91.09 4 Burj Al Arab Dubai 89.52 5 One&Only Cape Town 89.03 6 King David Hotel Jerusalem 88.43 7 Fairmont The Norfolk Nairobi, Kenya 88.41 8 Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, South Africa 86.93 9 David Citadel Hotel Jerusalem 85.05 10 Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza 84.75 11 Sheraton Tel Aviv 82.67

12 Dan Tel Aviv 81.75 13 Nairobi Serena Hotel Kenya 81.11 14 InterContinental David Tel Aviv 79.25 15 Hilton Tel Aviv 78.93

LODGES AND RESORTS 1 Singita Sabi Sand Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 95.82 2 Londolozi Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 95.80 3 Singita Kruger National Park South Africa 95.11 4 Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 94.29 5 MalaMala Game Reserve Kruger National Park Area, South Africa 93.50 6 Mombo Camp and Little Mombo Camp (operated by Wilderness Safaris) Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana 92.73 7 Giraffe Manor Nairobi, Kenya 92.63 8 Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club Nanyuki, Kenya 91.75 9 Royal Livingstone Hotel Victoria Falls, Zambia 91.70

10 Fairmont Mara Safari Club Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya 90.00 11 Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge Serengeti National Park, Tanzania 89.87 12 Chobe Game Lodge Chobe National Park, Botswana 89.33 13 Le Quartier Franรงais Franschhoek, South Africa 89.09 14 Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania 88.89 15 Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge Amboseli National Park, Kenya 86.00 16 Dan Eilat Hotel Red Sea, Israel 85.00 17 Mara Serena Safari Lodge Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya 84.75 18 Lake Manyara Serena Safari Lodge Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania 84.50 19 Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania 83.71 20 Mรถvenpick Resort Petra, Jordan 82.17

A suite at Southern Ocean Lodge, on Kangaroo Island, Australia.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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EUROPE LARGE CITY HOTELS (100 ROOMS OR MORE) 1 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest 96.91 2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano Milan 94.48 3 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Florence 94.00 4 Le Bristol Paris 93.93 5 Ritz Paris 93.82 6 Four Seasons Hotel Prague 93.81 7 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris 93.58 8 Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin 93.20 9 Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel Seville, Spain 92.90 10 Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris 92.76 11 Stafford London 92.70 12 The Connaught London 92.55 13 Hotel Grande Bretagne Athens 92.32 14 Le Meurice Paris 91.84 15 Hôtel de Paris Monte Carlo, Monaco 91.80

SMALL CITY HOTELS (FEWER THAN 100 ROOMS) 1 Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet 95.15 2 The Lanesborough London 93.07 3 The Ritz London 92.83 4 The Goring London 92.57 5 Mandarin Oriental Barcelona 92.53 6 Gritti Palace Venice 92.33 7 Ritz-Carlton Istanbul 91.47 8 Hotel Londra Palace Venice 91.11 9 Ca’ Sagredo Hotel Venice 90.53 10 Belmond Hotel Cipriani Venice 90.20

RESORTS (40 ROOMS OR MORE) 1 Castello di Casole—A Timbers Resort Casole d’Elsa, Italy 94.07 2 Villa d’Este Cernobbio, Italy 92.88 3 Adare Manor Hotel & Golf Resort County Limerick, Ireland 92.75 4 Powerscourt Hotel (formerly RitzCarlton Powerscourt) County Wicklow, Ireland 92.53 5 Belmond Hotel Splendido Portofino, Italy 91.86

6 Trianon Palace Versailles, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel France 91.47 7 Hotel Santa Caterina Amalfi, Italy 91.37 8 Dromoland Castle County Clare, Ireland 91.15 9 Le Sirenuse Positano, Italy 91.10 10 Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria Sorrento, Italy 90.62

INNS AND SMALL COUNTRY HOTELS (FEWER THAN 40 ROOMS) 1 Domaine Les Crayères Reims, France 91.53 2 Château de la Chèvre d’Or Èze Village, France 89.90 3 Relais Il Falconiere & Spa Cortona, Italy 89.07 4 Villa Gallici Aix-en-Provence, France 82.95

WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2014

Castello di Casole, in Casole d’Elsa, Italy.

PAU L DY ER

NO. 1 RESORT: EUROPE

CONTINENTAL U.S. LARGE CITY HOTELS (100 ROOMS OR MORE) 1 The Langham Chicago 96.00 2 Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas 94.83 3 The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel New York City 94.48 4 The Peninsula Chicago 93.52 5 The Pierre, a Taj Hotel New York City 92.53 6 The Peninsula Beverly Hills, California 92.51 7 Hotel Bel-Air Los Angeles 92.50 8 Four Seasons Hotel Chicago 92.44 9 Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago 92.38 10 Mandarin Oriental Boston 92.21 11 Four Seasons Hotel New York City 92.11 12 Four Seasons Hotel Seattle 91.86 13 Ritz-Carlton Atlanta 91.44 14 Fairmont Olympic Hotel Seattle 91.42

15 Hotel Commonwealth Boston 91.39 16 Ritz-Carlton Charlotte, North Carolina 91.27 17 Montage Beverly Hills, California 91.18 18 Umstead Hotel and Spa Cary, North Carolina 91.11 19 Ritz-Carlton, Key Biscayne, Miami 91.09 20 St. Regis New York City 91.03 21 Waldorf Astoria Chicago 90.92 22 Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park 90.82 23 Four Seasons Hotel Denver 90.71 24 Mandarin Oriental San Francisco 90.67 25 Boston Harbor Hotel 90.64 26 Hermitage Hotel Nashville 90.58 27 Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco 90.55

28 Four Seasons Hotel Washington, D.C. 90.55 29 Trump International Hotel & Tower New York City 90.50 30 Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas 90.42 31 21C Museum Hotel Bentonville, Arkansas 90.25 32 Windsor Court Hotel New Orleans 90.18 33 Wynn Las Vegas 89.96 34 The Venetian and The Palazzo Las Vegas 89.93 35 Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach, Florida 89.93 36 L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, California 89.91 37 Rosewood Crescent Dallas 89.88 38 Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek Dallas 89.79

39 Ritz-Carlton San Francisco 89.71 40 Hotel Vitale San Francisco 89.60 41 Ritz-Carlton Chicago, a Four Seasons Hotel 89.58 42 Grand Bohemian Hotel Asheville, North Carolina 89.54 43 The Hay-Adams Washington, D.C. 89.52 44 Mandarin Oriental Miami 89.41 45 Four Seasons Hotel Boston 89.38 46 Willard InterContinental Washington, D.C. 89.36 47 Heathman Hotel Portland, Oregon 89.20 48 St. Regis Atlanta 89.18 49 Hotel 1000 Seattle 89.11 50 Four Seasons Hotel Austin, Texas 89.02

SMALL CITY HOTELS (FEWER THAN 100 ROOMS) 1 Planters Inn Charleston, South Carolina 94.78 2 French Quarter Inn Charleston, South Carolina 93.58 3 Inn at the Market Seattle 93.56 4 Wentworth Mansion Charleston, South Carolina 92.76 5 Market Pavilion Hotel Charleston, South Carolina 92.20 6 XV Beacon Boston 91.62 7 21C Museum Hotel Louisville, Kentucky 90.93 8 The Jefferson Washington, D.C. 90.86 9 Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi Santa Fe, New Mexico 90.77 10 Eliot Hotel Boston 90.50

NO. 1 CITY HOTEL: CONTINENTAL U.S.

K E V I N M I YA Z A K I

The lobby at the Langham, Chicago.

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24 Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa Paradise Valley, Arizona 91.57 25 Enchantment Resort Sedona, Arizona 91.49 26 Ojai Valley Inn & Spa Ojai, California 91.24 27 Little Nell Aspen, Colorado 91.20 27 Montage Deer Valley Park City, Utah 91.20 29 Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort South Carolina 91.14 30 Sundance Mountain Resort Sundance, Utah 91.05 31 Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch Avon, Colorado 91.00 32 Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa Rancho Santa Fe, California 90.91 33 Hammock Beach Resort, a Salamander Golf & Spa Resort Palm Coast, Florida 90.82

NO. 1 RESORT: CONTINENTAL U.S.

RESORTS (40 ROOMS OR MORE) 1 Ocean House Watch Hill, Rhode Island 96.20 2 Lodge at Sea Island Golf Club Georgia 95.58 3 Stein Eriksen Lodge Deer Valley, Utah 94.97 4 The Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 94.10 5 Inn at Palmetto Bluff, a Montage Resort Bluffton, South Carolina 93.86 6 White Elephant Hotel Nantucket, Massachusetts 93.68 7 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Vail, Colorado 93.52 8 Ventana Inn & Spa Big Sur, California 93.36 9 Blackberry Farm Walland, Tennessee 93.29 10 L’Auberge Carmel California 92.94

11 Cavallo Point Lodge—The Lodge at the Golden Gate Sausalito, California 92.88 12 Auberge du Soleil Rutherford, California 92.81 13 Montage Laguna Beach, California 92.72 14 Stephanie Inn Hotel Cannon Beach, Oregon 92.63 15 The Sebastian Vail–A Timbers Resort Colorado 92.62 16 Inn by the Sea Cape Elizabeth, Maine 92.47 17 The Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia 92.31 18 San Ysidro Ranch Santa Barbara, California 92.25 19 Grand Del Mar San Diego 92.11 20 Old Edwards Inn & Spa Highlands, North Carolina 92.00 21 Bardessono Hotel, Restaurant & Spa Yountville, California 91.88 22 Viceroy Snowmass Snowmass Village, Colorado 91.78 23 Wequassett Resort & Golf Club Harwich, Massachusetts 91.75

42 Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, California 90.21 43 Lodge & Club at Ponte Vedra Beach Florida 90.13 44 St. Regis Aspen Resort Colorado 90.13 45 Inn on Biltmore Estate Asheville, North Carolina 90.11 46 Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village Los Angeles 90.11 47 Destination Kohler Kohler, Wisconsin 90.00 47 LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort Naples, Florida 90.00 47 Renaissance Vinoy Resort & Golf Club St. Petersburg, Florida 90.00 47 Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe Truckee, California 90.00

INNS AND SMALL LODGES (FEWER THAN 40 ROOMS) 1 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 97.44 2 Post Ranch Inn Big Sur, California 95.47 3 Brewery Gulch Inn Mendocino, California 95.00

34 Lodge at Pebble Beach California 90.67 35 Pinehurst Resort Pinehurst, North Carolina 90.50 36 Hotel Terra Teton Village, Wyoming 90.44 37 Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort & Spa Beaver Creek, Colorado 90.32 38 Carneros Inn Napa, California 90.30 39 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Jackson Hole, Wyoming 90.25 40 Solage Calistoga, California 90.23 41 Ritz-Carlton Amelia Island, Florida 90.22

4 Farmhouse Inn Forestville, California 94.67 5 Inn at Little Washington Washington, Virginia 93.33 6 Tides Beach Club Kennebunkport, Maine 91.47 7 Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa Jackson, Wyoming 90.74 8 White Barn Inn & Spa Kennebunk Beach, Maine 90.00 9 Little Palm Island Resort & Spa Little Torch Key, Florida 89.90 10 Camden Harbour Inn Camden, Maine 87.20

COURTESY OF OCEAN HOUSE

A suite at the Ocean House, in Watch Hill, Rhode Island.

NO. 1 RESORT: CANADA

CANADA CITY HOTELS 1 Shangri-La Hotel Vancouver 93.00 2 Rosewood Hotel Georgia Vancouver 92.27 3 Ritz-Carlton Toronto 92.00 4 Ritz-Carlton Montreal 91.50 5 Auberge Saint-Antoine Quebec City 90.94 6 Wedgewood Hotel & Spa Vancouver 89.60 7 Fairmont Waterfront Vancouver 89.08 8 Four Seasons Hotel Toronto 88.50 9 Fairmont Pacific Rim Vancouver 87.49 10 Hotel Grand Pacific Victoria, British Columbia 87.41

4 Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Alberta 87.49 5 Rimrock Resort Hotel Banff, Alberta 87.47 6 Fairmont Chateau Whistler British Columbia 87.42 7 Prince of Wales Niagara-on-theLake, Ontario 86.38 8 Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside British Columbia 86.13 9 Sooke Harbour House British Columbia 85.50 10 Fairmont Banff Springs Alberta 85.02

CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA CITY HOTELS 1 Palacio Duhau–Park Hyatt Buenos Aires 93.40 2 Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires 92.92 3 Alvear Palace Hotel Buenos Aires 92.11

4 JW Marriott Lima, Peru 91.77 5 Belmond Hotel Monasterio Cuzco, Peru 90.90 6 Ritz-Carlton Santiago, Chile 89.14 7 Belmond Copacabana Palace Rio de Janeiro 87.78 8 Hotel Casa Museo Santo Domingo Antigua, Guatemala 87.47 9 JW Marriott Quito, Ecuador 87.08 10 Belmond Miraflores Park Lima, Peru 86.92 11 Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel, Casino & Spa Argentina 83.43 12 Hotel Grano de Oro San José, Costa Rica 83.25 13 JW Marriott Rio de Janeiro 82.80 14 Hilton Buenos Aires 82.32 15 Sheraton Rio Hotel & Resort 80.57

RESORTS 1 Nayara Springs La Fortuna, Costa Rica 97.00 2 Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza, Argentina 95.20 3 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens La Fortuna, Costa Rica 94.89 4 Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, Golf-Spa Bariloche, Argentina 91.78 5 Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo 89.24 6 Arenas del Mar Beachfront & Rainforest Resort Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica 88.50 7 Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel Peru 86.27 8 Belmond Sanctuary Lodge Machu Picchu, Peru 85.83 9 Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort La Fortuna, Costa Rica 84.25 10 Los Sueños Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort Puntarenas, Costa Rica 83.80

RESORTS 1 Wickaninnish Inn Tofino, British Columbia 93.12 2 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler, British Columbia 92.87 3 Post Hotel & Spa Lake Louise, Alberta 92.36

WORLD’S BEST AWARDS

ANDREW HETHERINGTON

2014

The Wickaninnish Inn, on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

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HAWAII HOTELS AND RESORTS

MEXICO HOTELS AND RESORTS

A view of the Pitons from Jade Mountain, in St. Lucia.

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HOTELS AND RESORTS 1 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 94.56 2 Cap Maison St. Lucia 93.75 3 Couples Sans Souci St. Mary, Jamaica 93.67 4 Reefs Resort & Club Bermuda 92.94 5 Couples Tower Isle St. Mary, Jamaica 92.74 6 Nisbet Plantation Beach Club Nevis 92.71 7 Ladera Resort St. Lucia 92.50 8 Sandals Whitehouse European Village & Spa Jamaica 92.36 9 Sandy Lane Hotel Barbados 91.20 10 Sandals Royal Plantation Ocho Rios, Jamaica 90.91 11 Jamaica Inn Ocho Rios, Jamaica 90.26 12 The BodyHoliday St. Lucia 89.97 13 One&Only Ocean Club Paradise Island, Bahamas 89.80 14 St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort Rio Grande, Puerto Rico 89.65 15 Couples Swept Away Westmoreland, Jamaica 89.33 15 Round Hill Hotel & Villas Montego Bay, Jamaica 89.33 17 Cambridge Beaches Resort & Spa Bermuda 89.18 18 Hotel El Convento San Juan, Puerto Rico 89.10 19 Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort St. Lucia 89.07 20 Couples Negril Jamaica 89.05 21 Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa 88.86 22 Eden Rock - St. Bart’s 88.57 22 W Retreat & Spa Vieques, Puerto Rico 88.57 24 Sandals Grande Antigua Resort & Spa 88.39 25 Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina British Virgin Islands 88.24

C O U R T E S Y O F J A D E M O U N TA I N

1 Capella Pedregal Los Cabos 95.25 2 St. Regis Punta Mita Resort 95.22 3 Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya 94.80 4 One&Only Palmilla Los Cabos 94.44 5 Four Seasons Hotel, México, D.F. Mexico City 94.29 6 Banyan Tree Mayakoba Riviera Maya 94.25 7 Le Blanc Spa Resort Cancún 93.04 8 Las Ventanas al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort Los Cabos 92.73 9 Esperanza, an Auberge Resort Los Cabos 92.48 10 Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita 91.63 11 Excellence Riviera Cancún Puerto Morelos 91.00

12 Ritz-Carlton Cancún 90.97 13 CasaMagna Marriott Cancún Resort 90.00 14 Royal Hideaway Playacar Riviera Maya 89.91 15 Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa Riviera Maya 89.76 16 Excellence Playa Mujeres Cancún 88.82 17 Hilton Los Cabos Beach & Golf Resort 88.80 18 Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay Resort & Spa Mazatlán 88.63 19 JW Marriott Mexico City 87.82 20 Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Resort & Spa Los Cabos 87.33 21 Moon Palace Golf & Spa Resort Cancún 87.29 22 Grand Velas Riviera Maya 87.20 22 Westin Lagunamar Ocean Resort Villas & Spa Cancún 87.20 24 Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Resort Los Cabos 87.05 25 Live Aqua Cancún 86.93

1 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Hawaii, the Big Island 94.96 2 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 93.86 3 Halekulani Oahu 92.63 4 Four Seasons Resort Lanai, The Lodge at Koele 92.46 5 Trump International Hotel Waikiki Beach Walk Oahu 91.75 6 Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay 90.34 7 Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Maui 88.68 8 Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort Oahu 88.56 9 Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa Kauai 88.55 10 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui 88.43 11 Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort Maui 88.30 12 St. Regis Princeville Resort Kauai 88.23 13 Koa Kea Hotel & Resort Kauai 87.20 14 Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa Oahu 85.78 15 Sheraton Maui Resort 85.56 16 Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows Hawaii, the Big Island 85.50 17 Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa 84.81 18 JW Marriott Resort & Spa at Ko Olina Oahu 84.27 19 Kauai Marriott Resort on Kalapaki Beach 84.13 20 Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Hawaii, the Big Island 84.00 21 Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk Honolulu 83.78 22 Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa Honolulu 83.66 23 Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort & Spa Oahu 83.48 24 Fairmont Orchid Hawaii, the Big Island 83.44 25 Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach Oahu 83.43

THE CARIBBEAN, BERMUDA AND THE BAHAMAS

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WORLD’S BEST AWARDS 2014

NO. 1 LARGE-SHIP CRUISE LINE

LARGE-SHIP CRUISE LINES 1 Crystal Cruises 92.58 2 Azamara Club Cruises 91.53 3 Regent Seven Seas Cruises 91.08 4 Oceania Cruises 89.29 5 Holland America Line 87.43 6 Cunard Line 84.67 7 Royal Caribbean International 82.33 8 Celebrity Cruises 81.28 9 Princess Cruises 80.78 10 Norwegian Cruise Line 75.79

C O U R T E S Y O F C R Y S TA L C R U I S E S

SMALL-SHIP CRUISE LINES

TOP CRUISE LINES MEGA-SHIP CRUISE LINES

Crystal Symphony in Australia’s Whitsunday Islands.

1 2 3 4 5

1 2 3 4

Paul Gauguin Cruises 93.25 Seabourn 93.02 Windstar Cruises 93.02 Regent Seven Seas Cruises 89.43 5 Silversea Cruises 88.67

Disney Cruise Line 86.39 Celebrity Cruises 85.40 Cunard Line 84.17 Princess Cruises 82.21 Royal Caribbean International 81.57

RIVER CRUISE LINES 1 Tauck 96.93 2 Viking Cruises 94.14 3 Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection 93.80 4 Grand Circle Cruise Line 92.19 5 AmaWaterways 88.48

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August 2014

Features

IA N L LOY D N EU BAU ER

108 Kam Archipelago, Thailand 116 Manchuria 124 Neptune Islands, Australia 130 Seville

Submersive shark viewing also nets schools of kingfish, in Australia, page 124.

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Hidden in Plain Sight

Seaside camping away from it all is closer than you think. Not far from Phuket, Joe Cummings discovers an Andaman archipelago so untraveled there aren’t even fishing boats on the horizon.

ph o t o gr a ph e d by a da m f rost

The Kam group of islands is part of Thailand’s Laem Son National Park.

Opposite: A cavernous tent at Indochine Safari’s camp.

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orget palm trees.

Yes, they’re the ultimate iconography of the Robinson Crusoe getaway. And that’s precisely the problem. Palms represent the exotic to the masses, but Asia’s beaches are as diverse as its people. Most of southern Thailand’s palm-free shores, lined instead with beautifully waving sea pines or mangroves, are blissfully deserted sea specks where you need to bring a packed lunch… or learn how to fish.

A case in point is the Kam Archipelago. Never heard of it? I’ve lived in Thailand for two decades and neither had I until this year, just after a new boutique start-up opened an exclusive tented camp on small, uninhabited Koh Kam Nui. North of the Surins and a bit east of Burma’s maritime border, this cluster of 20 islands features white coral beaches and mangrove thickets enclosing interiors of densely forested hillocks, all part of Laem Son National Park, based in Ranong province on the mainland. It’s an enormous, empty playground basically in Bangkok’s backyard that I visited with Indochine Safari Company, for some high-end camping cheek by jowl with wildlife, from parrots to rare deer. With 100 kilometers of Andaman Sea coastline, the littoral topography here represents Thailand’s longest protected shoreline.

And not a palm tree in sight.

AS MY BRIGHTLY PAINTED LONG-TAIL BOAT LEAVES

a rickety fishing pier for the 45-minute trip to Koh Kam Nui, I feel something I haven’t felt in a very long time: Expectation. It’s a surge that mounts as we bounce from wave to wave. I’d almost completely forgotten about the buzz that comes with the anticipation of experiencing someplace new. There’s a quickening of the pulse, and an inexplicable sensation that my retinas are sharper, more receptive than usual. The last time I felt this must have been when I explored Burma’s then-untrammelled, un-guidebooked outer reaches back in the 80’s.

In drawing that comparison I have something in common with Indochine Safari’s founders, Australian Jeff LaValette, who hardhat pearl hunted all over Burma’s Mergui Archipelago, and London-born Adam Frost, who ran a tented safari camp on Wa Ale Kyun islet there.

“We were the first foreigners to live in the islands in fifty years,” Adam says, “and had license to explore.” So although shifting politics made them give up their businesses in Burma, they couldn’t give up their taste for the freedom of the unknown.

It’s a feeling I didn’t realize I’d missed until I find myself straining against the bow of the boat to get a better look at terra incognita, taking in as many clues as I can—the sizes and shapes of the islands, the forest cover, the visible beaches. As we close in on Koh Kam Nui, I’m spellbound by the deep-green treetops waving in the breeze high atop a ridge that ripples lengthwise across the island.

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We’re making for a wide sand beach directly in front of us, framed by rocky mangrove headlands at each end. The sky is the intense, lapis lazuli you only see over the Andaman during March and April, the sole lengthy gap between southern Thailand’s two annual monsoon seasons. At landfall, it’s a short wade through the rocky shallows to the pillowy shore, where Adam and Jeff greet us with cold drinks.

In addition to having rainforest, rock cliffs and sandy beaches, impossibly idyllic Koh Kam Nui is blessed with a large, flat grassy area alongside a leeward beach: a safe, attractive site for the spacious camp.

My tent home for the next three nights occupies its own clearing, shielded on three sides by prime rainforest but with plenty of holes in the forest canopy to let in sporadic shafts of sunlight. The capacious green canvas, held securely in place by sturdy guy-wires and bowed shafts, is shaped like a half cylinder lying on its side. Walking into the vestibule—I hesitate to use the term “glamping,” but there’s a vestibule—I’m surprised at how easily my 1.9-meter frame is accommodated at full height. Towards the back of the tent sit two beds made of giant bamboo fitted with thick mattresses, sheets, pillows and tropical quilts. Ample light fixtures dangle from various points on ceiling, and there are long rods for hanging clothes. Two rugged, diminutive fans—powered, like the lights, by solar cells— keep the inside pleasantly ventilated during my stay, even with the hot season well underway.

Outside, a cured-bamboo table and two chairs are perfect for lounging and reading and, in a corner of my campsite, a cluster of trees shields a gravity-fed outdoor shower from passers-by—of which the possibilities are, by design, few to begin with. There are only four campgrounds, for a maximum of eight castaways.

Still, there are purpose-built public areas, and they are inviting: a huge rock fire-pit, a long wooden table for dining and a rustic kitchen set up beneath a large ficus tree. No point in the camp is more than 20 meters or so from the beach, which means whenever the urge strikes, you can dunk yourself into the sea in seconds.

My favorite spot? Down the beach from the dining area, a venerable old mangrove leans out over a soft bed of sand. Hung from its branches is a long, wide hammock that the ever-handy Adam—who runs every trip—has fashioned from rope and smooth chunks of sea-polished driftwood. When the tide reaches its zenith, hammock-swayers are partially immersed in the cradling waters.

Above: Alone as far as the eye can see on forested and hillocked Koh Kam Nui. The lapis lazuli of the Andaman, below.

Another languid day ends.

Above: When the tide reaches its zenith, hammock swayers are cradled by the sea. In the Kam Archipelago, pack a lunch... or go fishing, below.

I HESITATE TO CALL IT ‘GLAMPING,’ BUT MY TENT HOME HAS A VESTIBULE

M A P B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N

It’s an effort to extract myself from full hammock trance, but I can always roll back in (sorry, fellow travelers, I’ve staked my claim).

Besides, it’s time for a hike through the forest and across the island to a cove on the opposite side. While the lee side beach of the camp is lapped by tranquil waters, here you get the feeling of the open ocean, with rousing surf bouncing steadily off the high granite cliffs at either end of the steeply curving bay.

We climb the rock promontory at the south end of the cove and are greeted by inspiring views of the watery horizon on one side and, on the other, a beach backed by high rainforest canopies pierced here and there by majestic dipterocarp, the kings of jungle flora. Photos taken and appropriate exclamations of awe exchanged, I slip back down the rocks and dive into the surf for a pre-sunset swim. Aside from our party of four, there is no other evidence of human presence in any direction—not even a fishing boat on the horizon.

As the yellow ball of sun drops behind a blue wall of water, we re-group and trek back to camp, for icy cocktails and fresh seafood hors d’oeuvres. Over a few refills—they’ve stocked a bottle of Jack Daniels in camp, noting my pre-departure preference for bourbon— our group of five gets to know each other. One fellow camper, Craig Henderson, grew up on a tea plantation in the Seychelles, and worked as a pearl farm manager in Australia and Indonesia. His company, Archipelagopearls, raises oysters in Burma and produces exquisite jewelry showcased in five-star resort galleries. Before my three nights on the island are over, I will be brimming with knowledge about pearling in Southeast Asia, regaled by tales of farm mutinies, pearl heists and the peculiar lives people such as Craig and Jeff—who walked the Mergui seafloors in copper-and-brass, glass-windowed helmets—have led in the service of the milky-white sea goddess.

In the cooling evening, Craig places a board topped with a huge grilled jack crevalle on the main dining table. I can’t help but marvel at the size of the fish and, after sampling meaty chunks, its overwhelming freshness as well. Known by a host of other names, including bluefin trevally and bluefin kingfish, the flat, footballshaped fish can measure a meter or more in length and is as highly valued among sport fishermen as it is with gourmets. You don’t see them in Bangkok, or at least I never have.

ANOTHER THING YOU NEVER SEE: THE POODLE-SIZED mouse deer, one of the several species of deer found throughout this small archipelago—that is, on the rare occasions the shy creatures come out of hiding. Throughout my stay in these secret isles, kayaking, trekking and simply casting my eyes skyward yields frequent and exhilarating fauna sightings. It’s not unusual to spot flocks of wild parrots—lime green and coral little squawkers—and

occasional hornbills. A tribe of langurs cavorts high in the treetops each sunset. On the nearby Piak Nam Yai and Thao, long-tailed macaques use crude stone tools for cracking the shells of their prey.

After the languid days, I retreat to my tent, glowing with solar bulbs, and fall asleep to the harmonizing sounds of sea and forest. Night after night, I find the natural soundscape unimpeded by air-conditioner hum, distant dance beats and other aural artifacts of mass beach tourism we take for granted. For me, it’s hugely enjoyable, not to mention detoxifying. It’s the original soundtrack for old-school beach tripping. It’s a feeling I’d stored away in a mental drawer for posterity. Here on the shores of Koh Kam Nui, I restock my reserve. ✚ BURMA

Kam Archipelago

THAILAND

ANDAMAN SEA

KOH KAM NUI

ANDAMAN SEA

N 0

2 KM

+

T L Guide Getting There Fly to Phuket and take a taxi to the Ban Kampuan jetty in Ranong province; from there you’ll take a long-tail boat to Koh Kam Nui. Or, Indochine Safari Company can arrange your transfers for an additional fee.

Indochine Safari Company A10 The Royal Place, 96/68 Praphuketkhew Rd., Kathu, Phuket; 66-87/000-1501; indochine-safari.com; “Thailand Island Safari” costs USD$180 per day per adult, with a three-day minimum booking. Full board includes luxury safari accommodation, national park fees, daily activities and activity equipment; and excludes alcoholic beverages and land and sea transfers.

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The palace at Shenyang—which was dubbed Mukden, the Manchu word for “flourishing.”

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IN SEARCH OF THE MANCHUS

They were China’s last ruling dynasty, then pushed to the brink of extinction. In the far northeast, the revived spirits of these plainsdwelling, shamanistic warriors reveal themselves to all who visit. by gabrielle jaffe

photographed by cherry li

alms pressed flat together above his forehead, knees bent over a yellow-silk-covered block, Hong Haibo offers an inaudible prayer to his forebears. This genuflecting gesture of ancestor worship is reproduced daily throughout East Asia, but Hong’s are no ordinary ancestors. They are the Manchu chieftain founders of China’s last imperial dynasty, the Qing, who ruled the Middle Kingdom for nearly three centuries. Like his famously tall kinsmen, Hong towers well over 1.8 meters and stands erect as a guardsman.

During important celebrations, such as the Mid-Autumn and Banjin festivals (which this year fall on September 8 and December 4, respectively), Hong would be joined by hundreds of other Manchus. But on this crisp day we are the only visitors to the Qing ancestral tombs in Xinbin County, a pinestudded sweep of land beyond the Great Wall, in an area of the northeastern-most extremity of China formerly known as Manchuria.

Silence surrounds us, broken only by the satisfying crunch of fresh snow under foot. As we return to the entrance, we pass four pavilions casting long shadows in the weak winter sun. “For me, this is not just history,” Hong says, stopping to ensure he has my full attention. “I have a responsibility to come here. In return, my ancestors watch over me.”

Such open worship would have been unthinkable in the Maoist China. And even before the Communists came to power, Hong’s family had to keep their Manchu identity secret. For nearly 300 years of Qing dynastic rule, the Manchus had lived as a ruling class, holding the Han apart both physically—by barring the majority from inner Beijing and Manchuria—and culturally, by keeping up their distinct pickle- and sausage-heavy cuisine, tasseled dress, husky language and plainsinfluenced riding and warring culture. But when the Qing fell in 1912 to the republican tide, they found themselves dispossessed, disenfranchised and sometimes even disemboweled.

It is testament to the Manchu warrior skill that their small group managed to take control of the empire, and their tactical savvy that they kept power in part by appointing both Han and Manchu ministers. But the end of Qing reign, also the end of dynastic China, represented a return to Han tradition that their minority numbers could not weather. Faced with discrimination and violence, most Manchus dropped their customs and tried to blend. They did such a good job that by 1928 a report in the New York Times warned, “Within a few decades, it seems evident, the Manchu will have ceased to exist as a separate race and will have been entirely merged with the [Han] Chinese.” Yet somehow they survive, almost a century on. That’s mostly because of persistent people like Hong, who are reviving centuries-old traditions from art to the art of war. But it’s also because, unlike many other

Emperor Nurhaci, unifier of the Manchus, on the throne, below, and entombed, opposite.

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lost tribes, the Manchus still have a spiritual homeland to which they can return. Today 10 million people in China openly claim Manchu heritage, and I thought a trip to the faintly but still-beating heart of their birthplace would reveal the stitches that still bind them.

H E M M E D I N BY M O N G O L I A , Russia and the Korean peninsula, a stone’s throw from the Sea of Japan, the mountain and river-ringed melting pot that was Manchuria wields influences from all of these cultures, but it is the Manchu presence that is most strongly felt. Many of the counties in this part of China, including Xinbin, have been declared autonomous Manchu regions by the government. In these rural areas, many Manchus live much as their ancestors did, in thatch and mud-brick farmhouses. With Hong, I visit some of these small homesteads in Yongling village and find plenty of evidence of preserved historic practices, from artisans crafting paper-cut artworks to the shamanistic red ribbons tied around wizened trees that are believed to harbor powerful spirits.

Xinbin County is where the Manchus came from and where the Qing’s founding emperor Nurhaci grew up, but, in order to trace their rise and fall as a people, I must travel to nearby Shenyang. A now-typical northern Chinese city, thick with high-rises and frozen rivers, Shenyang nevertheless holds at its core a well-preserved slice of history: the grand Imperial Palace, erected on Nurhaci’s orders in the 1620’s.

Stretching out over an area the size of eight soccer pitches, this royal residence was meant to be a grand statement. Just two decades earlier, the Manchus were a group of disparate tribes. Hunting and gathering, fishing and fighting, they had lived until then in simple villages like the present-day ones in Xinbin. But after Nurhaci unified them, he had more august visions. Upon conquering Shenyang in what was his first major victory against China’s then-ruling dynasty, the Ming, he evidently liked the symbolism of making the city his new capital. He renamed it Mukden, the Manchu word for “flourishing,” and employed the best Han Chinese architects to create a palace to rival Beijing’s Forbidden City.

At first glance, the Mukden palace seems like an exact replica of its inspiration: a parade of endless courtyards, auspiciously laid out according to feng shui principles. But the Manchu influence is soon revealed. In one courtyard, a deer-antler throne room points to the hunting habits of the ruling elite, while eight pavilions represent the eight military banners into which the Manchus were organized. A “spirit pole” stands in another courtyard where the royal court’s shamans would hoist meat for the sky gods. I crane my neck up and imagine the birds circling, the blood dripping. I can still feel the presence of these fierce peoples. This palace might have the geometric order of Beijing’s Forbidden City but something of the wild, something of the untamed still hangs about it.

The palace is also much flashier than its Beijing counterpart: while the Han mostly limited themselves to a studied balance of yellow tiles, red walls and white marble, this palace incorporates more vibrant turquoise and green; in place of delicately carved stone dragons, it features gaudy gold, wooden ones, looking ready pounce off the pillars. “We were a simple, earthy people. Then suddenly we had this rich artisanal tradition to play with and wanted to show off,” says Tong Yue, a local historian, himself a Manchu. “It’s like the farmer’s wife who puts on her most colorful dress when she goes to the big city.”

Or, maybe he should say, headdress. Manchu women wore elaborate ones decorated with flowers and red tassels—modern versions of which can still be seen on servers in many of Shenyang’s restaurants. As I learn from the artifacts and apparel in the palace, Manchu women didn’t bind their feet as Han women did, making for an interesting cultural incongruity in which the tradition was a symbol of prestige for everyone but the actual ruling class. Manchu men were encouraged to maintain their horse-riding and archery skills (demonstrations of both proliferate throughout the region during the Lunar New Year period). And, although they were soon using Mandarin on a daily basis, they were still expected to keep up their Manchu language skills.

Over a hearty traditional lunch of meat-stuffed corn pancakes and blood sausage in the Manchu Family restaurant, Tong explains how the Manchus evolved from simple village folks to an elite caste, living off government stipends and honoring strict etiquette rules— some of which can be witnessed weekends at the palace. The royal wedding of Nurhaci’s son Hong Taiji and Harjol, his favorite concubine, is re-enacted on spring and summer Saturdays and Sundays, complete with all the pomp, circumstance, ornate embroidery and 120

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‘WE WERE A SIMPLE PEOPLE. THEN SUDDENLY WE WANTED TO SHOW OFF. IT ’S LIKE THE FARMER’S WIFE WHO PUTS ON HER MOST COLORFUL DRESS WHEN SHE GOES TO THE BIG CIT Y’

Clockwise from top left: Distinct rooftops; it’s in the details at Shenyang’s Imperial Palace; borrowing from the Mongolian alphabet, Manchu script resembles Arabic flipped on its side; Manchu women didn’t bind their feet; at the Yongling mausoleum; Hong Haibo pays respect to his forebears; a Qing ceiling shines with vibrant blues and greens; Manchu women bear elaborate headdresses. Middle: Archery with bows like these recreated by Michael Yang was key to Manchu domination.

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T L Guide STAY Shangri-La Shenyang One of the newest and best luxury options in town, with great park and river views. 115 Qingnian Ave., Shenhe Dist., Shenyang; 86-24/24366666; shangri-la.com; doubles from RMB1,100 per night.

Doubletree A short drive or a 15-minute walk from Shenyang’s Imperial Palace. 89 Fengyutan St., Shenhe Dist., Shenyang; 8624/8411-8888; doubletree3.hilton.com; doubles from RMB558 per night.

EAT & DRINK Manchu Family Traditional food, outfits and period photographs.

19 Xiannongtan Lu, Shenhe Dist., Shenyang; 86-24/2411-1130.

Laobian Jiaozi Local institution has a long history serving delicious northern dumplings. 206 Zhongjie Lu, Shenhe Dist., Shenyang; 86-24/22700207.

Xita Korea Town For nightlife and Korean barbecue. Xita St., Heping Dist., Shenyang.

SEE & DO Imperial Palace 171 Shenyang Lu, Shenhe Dist., Shenyang; 8624/2484-3819; sypm. org.cn; RMB60 per person, English-speaking tour guides RMB100. ‘The Royal Wedding of Hong Taiji and Harjol’ on Saturdays and Sundays May 1 to October 15.

Nurhaci’s Mausoleum Also known as Fuling Tomb. 210 Dongling Lu, Dongling Dist., Shenyang; qingfuling.com; RMB30 per person.

Qing Ancestral Tombs Also known as Yongling Tombs; a daytrip from Shenyang here can be combined with a visit to Nurhaci’s reconstructed hometown of Hetu Ala. Yongling Village, Xinbin County; 86-24/55156438; RMB20 per person.

Top Elites City Resort & Spa Unwind after a day’s sightseeing at the swankiest spa in town. 6 Sanyi St., Dongling Dist., Shenyang; 86-24/62839999; sytbsh.com.

SHOP Shougong Fang Manchu Paper Cutting Pick up local artworks at this artisan’s workshop near the Qing Ancestral Tombs. Yongling Village, Xinbin County; 86-24/ 1234-5678 or 86-158/ 4137-8059.

Manchuria N

RUSSIA

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MANCHURIA

NORTH KOREA

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SHAMANISTIC MANCHU MUSIC INCORPORATES SIMPLE MELODIES, STRONG PERCUSSION AND THROAT Y CHANTS

Above: Huang Guizhou teaches Manchu language.

Opposite: Michael Yang: office worker by day, Manchu warrior by night.

spine-straining headgear of a Qing formal event. Tong gamely leaps off his seat to demonstrate how Manchu noblemen would bow and how their wives would lock their hands together when standing to attention. “We were barbarians to begin,” he laughs, “but we wanted to prove we were better than the Han.”

T H E F O R M E R F R O N T M A N of the death-metal band Doomsday Cancer, who carries the name

Han Xiaohan no less, might seem an unlikely Manchurian candidate. But a grandfather’s deathbed confession of their Manchu blood led Han in a new direction, off to record the shamanistic music still performed in remote Manchu villages in the mountain ranges on the borders with North Korea and Russia. Soon he was incorporating the simple melodies, strong percussion beats and throaty chants of his lost people into his own tunes. I meet him in his Shenyang apartment, where he stores a collection of traditional instruments, including a reproduction snakeskin three-string fiddle that he made. “It’s not rewarding in terms of money,” the born-again Manchu musician admits, “but I feel it’s my mission.”

As I delve deeper into the Manchu community, one invite leading to the next, I hear about a young man who is a BMW office worker by day and Manchu craftsman by night.

“Manchu bows were three times more powerful than even the English longbow,” says Michael Yang, beaming. “These were the highest of high-tech back in the day.” Slender of stature and sporting black-framed glasses, he doesn’t at all appear like a Manchu warrior—that is until he picks up his weapons. Head held high, he transforms suddenly into a confident archer and I believe him when he says he hunts rabbits in the countryside.

Minstrels, warriors and scholars… these were important players at court. So to complete the trifecta, I visit one of only a handful of high schools in the country where the dying Manchu language is taught. One of the teachers, 67-year-old Huang Guizhou, gives me a lesson in Manchu, which sounds like husky Korean. He then begins inking Manchu script onto rice paper, his calligraphy brush soon lost in a muddle of swirls, lines and breaks that looks to me like Arabic, flipped on its side. Actually, the script borrows from the Mongolian alphabet. “I can’t imagine we’ll ever be using it in daily life,” admits Huang, who only started learning the language himself seven years ago. “But it’s a way of preserving our culture.”

I notice aged Manchu script on giant steles while exploring Nurhaci’s mausoleum in east Shenyang with a school chaperone, just before twilight. A gibbous moon in the faltering sky diffuses an eerie light over the fortress-like complex. At the back stands a large hill where the emperor is buried. “It’s not a good time of day,” the deputy headmistress stops me as I stroll onto a path circling the mound.

“Aren’t you scared of meeting his ghost?”

It’s a question I might ask of the musician who takes shamanistic instruments into the recording studio, the archer who scours online Qing texts to recreate bows, the waitresses wearing polyester Manchu costumes, and especially the genuflectors at ancient tombs. But I realize they’re not just trying to conjure ghosts, they’re reinventing their heritage to fit modern times. It’s exactly what Nurhaci did when he moved his people from the plain to the palace. And so I do circle his burial mound, paying my respects to the force that founded a powerful lineage, once pushed near extinction, but 400 years later still battling on. ✚ T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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WHITE FEAR

Locked in a cage, dangling in the cold seas off southern Australia, diving daredevils can come face to face with great white sharks. This is one man’s account of what it’s like to stare directly into the jaws of death.

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STORY AND PHOTOS BY IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER

A sure sign of danger approaches.

Opposite: Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions runs a modified shrimp boat to the Neptunes.

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E V E RYO N E I N P O RT LINCOLN HAS A S T O RY ABOUT S H A R KS.

The taxi driver I hail outside the airport servicing this small but affluent fishing town on Australia’s south coast tells me abalone divers now spot great whites every month, though there used to be only one sighting a year. The bartender who serves me a Coopers Ale at the Marina Hotel at the mouth of Boston Bay tells me he was mates with the father of 18-year-old Nick Peterson, a water skier who was eaten during a rare attack by two great whites in 2004.

Yet of all the shark stories true and tall, none compares to that of old Rodney Fox. In 1963, he survived one of the worst non-fatal shark attacks in history when a great white nearly bit him in half during a spearfishing competition.

Hauled into a boat, his insides spilling out of his body, Fox was rushed to the hospital, where it took surgeons 462 stitches to put him back together again.

The attack on Fox rocketed him to stardom—and down the road of revenge. In the 1971 documentary Blue Water White Death, one of 70 shark films (including the 1975 classic Jaws) he’s worked on over the years, Fox used an explosive-tipped spear gun to kill sharks. But the more time Fox spent observing his old nemeses, the more he came to appreciate them. So much so that, in time, he became the macro-predator’s most valiant defender and is now regarded by the National Geographic Society as one of the world’s foremost authorities on the great white.

“Sharks get a raw deal because most people don’t understand them, and fear them,” Fox says. “But I love to see them flying and gliding through the water.”

In the early 1980’s, Fox launched the world’s first commercial shark-watching expedition. Now run by his eldest son, marine biologist Andrew Fox, they use a refurbished shrimp boat to take groups of 12 to the Neptune Islands, a marine sanctuary pockmarked by treeless, uninhabited islets a five-hour sail southeast of Port Lincoln. Proceeds from these upscale expeditions, which include hearty chef-cooked meals like lamb shanks and mash along with South Australian

From far left: Rodney Fox’s cage; readying to greet sharks; great whites sense the cage, boat and occupants as one object— luckily; Andrew Fox (right), great-white encyclopedia.

wine and apple crumble, support the Fox Foundation’s research on great whites.

The sharks are an International Union for Conservation of Nature-listed vulnerable species now being hunted by the Western Australia government, as part of a controversial public safety campaign instigated this year after a spate of fatal sharks attacks that can be attributed in part to the rise of tasty watersports enthusiasts and humpback whale calves in those seas.

The Neptunes are home to one of Australia’s largest breeding population of New Zealand fur seals, which in turn support a migratory population of great whites. It’s there I find myself on a wet, dreary winter’s morning—conditions Andrew describes as “sharky” because of the cover they provide for predators to ambush prey. I’m pondering the protective capabilities of the aluminum shark cage, a Rodney Fox invention allowing you to meet great whites without getting eaten alive, when a deckhand calls out: “There’s already one here.”

W

e all go dead quiet. Off the side of the boat, there’s a 4-meter white pointer circling a large tuna head at the end of a length a rope. It’s Fox’s policy not to feed sharks lest they become conditioned, so whenever the shark gets close, the lure bait is yanked away. It’s not a foolproof policy. Without warning, a second great white even larger than the first explodes from the water, jaws agape, swallowing the tuna head whole. I’ve got to get in that water.

After struggling for 15 minutes to squeeze into a women’s wetsuit, I’m handed a men’s version that I then put on inside out. When I finally get it on the right way around, I’m fitted with a cumbersome 25-kilogram weight vest to prevent my head from butting the top of the cage, a neoprene balaclava, diving boots, diving gloves and a mask. I waddle like one of the seals great whites love to eat

onto the rear platform and dangle my feet in the frigid water inside the cage.

A deckhand passes me a respirator that I fit into my mouth before easing myself into the cage. At around 1.5 square meters and forged of dull aluminum, it has the look and feel of a Harry Houdini prop, with a small entry hatch in the top that doesn’t close. With next to no diving experience, I struggle to remain upright in the weightless environ, repeatedly toppling onto my backside until I figure out how to wedge my feet into the bars welded to the bottom of the cage—there’s no way I want to float up and out of this thing, after all.

Other challenges: waves that constantly bash the cage into the ship, my mask fogging up, my respirator tube getting tangled, and jellyfish floating into my face. Worse, I steal only passing glimpses of great whites because my view is blocked by large schools of kingfish and the three other divers in the cage. In fact, I feel more like we’re the animals on display here, comical entertainment for the sharks.

After a cold and frustrating half hour, I opt out. This obviously is going to take some getting used to.

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From left: On the hunt for great whites; schools of kingfish circle the cage; a kombi-van-sized manifestation of death.

The next morning, Andrew takes me alone into the cage. He’s a swimming encyclopedia of the Fox Foundation’s massive database, recounting everything from genetic studies to shark repellents, from acoustic telemetry to satellite tagging to the impact of the cage-diving industry. In moments, a super-giant female he’s nicknamed Jumbo 747—“I know and love these sharks individually the same way people treat their dogs,” he says—cruises past. She is 5 meters long, though it’s her body mass, two tonnes with a midriff wide as a kombi van, that makes a lasting impression. Being this close to her, this awesome manifestation of death itself, is an honor. It’s like falling in love; it is the single-most stomachchurning, adrenaline-inducing, life-affirming experience I’ve ever had. I can already hear myself boasting about it to my grandchildren.

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espite her heft, Jumbo 747 is the epitome of grace: a sleek, aerodynamic, muscle-bound avenging angel stratified with rhinoceros-like armor. It’s difficult not to anthropomorphize. Her facial expression seems brooding, though at times it becomes mischievous, while her cold, dark eyes give new meaning to the term thousandyard stare. The grey dorsal area contrasts starkly with her white underside after which her species is named. And like every detail of her tank of a body, the discoloration is designed to make her a more efficient killer. From above, the darker shade blends with the ocean. From below, the white underbelly exposes minimal silhouette against the sunlight, making her difficult to see.

Yet the most impressive fact I learn about sharks is their sixth sense: they don’t need their eyes to see us. They sense us by writ of their Ampullae of Lorenzini, a network of pores that lets them detect the electromagnetic field

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T L Guide STAY The Marina Hotel Marinaand bay-view rooms with spacious balconies. 13 Jubilee Dr., Lincoln Cove Marina, Port Lincoln; 61-8/ 8682-6141; marinahotel.com. au; standard suites from A$140.

DO Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Two- to fivenight voyages from Port

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Lincoln to the Neptune Islands include chef-cooked meals, wine with dinner and national park fees. 73 Ninth Ave., Joslin; 61-8/8363-1788; rodneyfox.com.au; four-night, three-day voyages with two to three surface cage dives per day, in twin-share accommodation, for A$1,996 per person; ocean-floor cage dives are an additional A$499, and require PADI certification; wetsuit hire A$20 per day.

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Calypso Star Charters Day-trips to the Neptunes include three-hour sailing via motorized boat, breakfast and lunch. 10 S. Quay Blvd., Port Lincoln; 61-8/86823939; sharkcagediving.com. au; day-trips with one surface cage dive for A$495.

T+L Tip The best time to see great whites at the Neptune Islands is during the Austral winter, from May to October.

emitted by the movement or even the heartbeat of a living animal.

But the sharks’ high-tech genetic engineering never fathomed the industrialization of its primary predator: humans. So, Jumbo 747 perceives our ship, the cage and the people inside as one large object—an islet or perhaps an inedible whale. For this reason Andrew is able to open the cage door and hang half his body outside as she glides a few centimeters from his camera lens. However, should Andrew let go for a moment, his separate electromagnetic field would give him away. He’d become the second Fox to taste the thrill of swimming freely with a great white shark. He’d also be the second to be tasted by one.

During my third cage dive of the day, I see another giant female make a pass at the bait. Breaching the surface with the force of a torpedo, the beautiful monster latches on, shakes her head madly and then swallows it with immense, full-body-spasming gulps. It’s this capacity to make mince meat out of just about any living creature that caused nearly every generation before ours to consider great whites to be demons. But here in the Neptunes, after having the rare privilege to see them up close, I think I may have looked into the beady, black eyes of god. ✚

IT’S THE MOST STOMACHC H U R N I N G, LIFEAFFIRMING EXPERIENCE EVER

The Neptune Islands speckle a shark-filled marine sanctuary.

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L E T T ERIN G BY WA R D SC H U M A K ER

Returning to the capitaI of southern Spain, ANDREW MCCARTHY finds crowded Iate-night bars and restaurants, the passions of flamenco and buIIfighting, and the enduring mystery of the weeping Virgin.

An impromptu flamenco at Casa Anselma, in the Triana neighborhood of Seville. Opposite: Oranges and lemons from the grounds at Hacienda de San Rafael, south of the city.

Clockwise from top left: An image of the weeping Virgin on the wall of Iglesia de San Mart铆n, in the Casco Antiguo neighborhood; Seville at dusk; jam贸n ib茅rico with french fries, and quail egg, caviar and jam贸n on toast at Bodeguita A. Romero, near the Plaza de Toros; outside Bar Estrella, in the city center; flamenco legend Cristina Hoyos.

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Outside the convent, for no reason, without thinking, I turn right. At the small Plaza de Pumarejo, in Macarena, a drunk is picking through the trash, mixing the remnants of discarded beer bottles like a waitress would marry jars of ketchup.

A few meters away, a man has an easel propped up and is painting the church.

An old lady with high, stiff hair is walking a small, puffy dog. I pass a fruit stand, a vintage clothing store, a hat shop. By the Almohad walls, which date from the 13th century, I walk into the basilica. There’s a wedding taking place; the first few pews are filled, the rest of the church is empty. I turn to leave, then turn back. There she is, above the altar. Her head encircled in gold filigree; her cloak encrusted with jewels; on her cheeks, crystal tears—the weeping Virgin.

Twenty years ago I passed through Seville for one night. Without my permission, a few random images snuck into my unconscious and lodged in my mind: a dark, narrow lane late at night that gave way to a tiny, jasmine-scented piazza; a thin young woman hitching up her long skirt to dance an impromptu flamenco in a crowded bar. And a photo I saw on the wall in a restaurant—the picture of a statue of the Virgin Mary with tear-stained cheeks. These accidental images became my experience of Seville and have, strangely, lingered as other seemingly more important recollections of cities and countries have faded.

So I’ve come back, lured by a few mental postcards, for a closer look.

Situated in the fertile Guadalquivir River valley, just over 480 kilometers southwest of Madrid, Seville is the capital of Andalusia and the fourth-largest city in Spain, with a population of 700,000. Though its history dates back to Roman times, an invasion by the Moors in the eighth century left a cultural imprint that largely defines the city today. A few centuries later the Christian reconquest gave the city its massive cathedral; by the 1500’s, its river port was the center of trade with the New World—and Seville became rich. But when silt began to clog the river and shipping moved south to Cádiz, the city lost much of its clout.

Thanks in large part to the creation of places such as architect Anibal Gonzalez’s Plaza de España, for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, Seville began its long road back to cultural relevancy. The center of town today is a jumble of ancient, narrow lanes that follow no modern logic, yet Seville is an easy city to settle into.

“Here, it’s all about street living,” Patrick Reid Mora-Figueroa tells me. Together with his brother Anthony, Reid runs the Corral del Rey, a chic, low-key boutique hotel in a restored 17th-century palace. My room, in the annex adjacent to the main house, is a tasteful mix of reclaimed wood, contemporary linen fabrics and discreet lighting. (The family also operates a rustic sister property 40 minutes to the south— the Hacienda de San Rafael, set amid fields of sunflowers on a former olive estate.)

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“Very little entertainment happens in the home in Seville,” Reid says. “But try to get a party to leave their table at a restaurant in less than three hours, forget it. There’s a natural flow here.” And while many corporate businesses maintain conventional working hours, the daily rhythm of life in Seville—most of its shopping and dining—still carries on in the old ways. A late lunch is followed by an afternoon siesta, when most businesses shutter.

Life kick-starts again after 9 p.m., when people take to the streets, often for a tapas crawl.

On one cloudless night, I start at El Rinconcillo, the oldest tavern in Seville, dating from 1670. Ornate Moorish tiles climb the walls, wooden casks hold the wine. Beside me, old men sip sherry. Overhead, on hooks hanging from the ceiling, are legs of the famous jamón ibérico.

A hawklike waiter in white shirt and black vest slices paper-thin slivers of the deep, sweet, potent cured ham—Spain’s answer to prosciutto. He deposits each slice with reverence on a small white plate, then jabs the platter into the hand of another similarly clad waiter, who in turn shoves it in front of me. A third waiter, older and rounder, whips a thick piece of chalk from his pocket and scribbles the price directly onto the wooden bar in front of me, adding it to my running tab. This is as old-school as it gets.

Then, tacked up behind the bar, I see a calendar with the photo of a statue of the Virgin Mary— weeping. It’s the same image I saw so many years ago, the one that has lingered in my mind. It turns out that Our Lady of Hope (La Esperanza), a.k.a. La Macarena, is beloved throughout Seville.

The statue is paraded in the streets and adored by thousands each year during Holy Week, before Easter. I will see a photo of the Virgin with the crystal tears in what seems like every restaurant and shop in Seville.

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Seville’s Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza, where las corridas take place.

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Clockwise from left: Framed prints and photos, including one of the weeping Virgin, on the wall at Casa Plácido, near the cathedral; langoustines at El Rinconcillo, on Calle Gerona; a Sevillano on the street.

urban crowd that overflows onto a narrow street across from the Basilica de Nuestro Padre Jesús del Gran Poder. Pepe Suárez leads a happy staff behind the swarming bar.

“The tourists come early; the locals come late,” he says, delivering the house specialty, huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus (slow-cooked egg on boletus cake with a wine reduction). After another of those, then a green pepper stuffed with hake, then scallop over seaweed purée and kataifi noodles, I head to the nearby Bodega Dos de Mayo, where tables are spread out on the dimly lit Plaza de la Gavidia.

The women still smoke, the men sip glasses of beer, and the kids race beneath orange trees. In the shadows, a solitary old man plays a mournful violin as a hot breeze blows through the night. Beside him is a large poster of a woman in a long red dress, castanets in hand.

Images of flamenco, the sensuous dance born in Andalusia, are everywhere in Seville. Red-and-white dresses with frilling trains fill shop windows; advertisements for shows are plastered on walls. The music and dance, identified as an “intangible cultural heritage of humanity” by unesco, is often dismissed as tourist enticement, yet there are many neighborhood bars where the locals get up and dance the sevillana, an erotic form of the dance done in pairs. There is even a flamenco museum, founded by legendary local dancer Cristina Hoyos.

Long, raven hair pulled back, piercing eyes set amid angular features, arms flung toward the heavens, feet stamping down, gathering power from the earth—if people unfamiliar with flamenco hold an image of the dance in their minds, it is probably one of Hoyos. Together with Antonio Gades, she helped bring flamenco to the world beginning in the late 1960’s.

“It is not necessary to understand flamenco,” she tells me, sitting among the interactive displays of her museum. “It must be felt.” The long black hair has gone an equally dramatic silver, and her eyes are still the mix of coy, flirtatious mischief and fiery resolve that captures the essence of flamenco. “In flamenco there is all of life. The joy, the sorrow. And it belongs to Andalusia, to Seville. This is a city that delights like a witch—why do you think Carmen is set here?—and flamenco is at the soul of Seville. It is a need for the local people; it was here long before tourism, and it will be here after.”

Across the river, in the working-class neighborhood of Triana, is where most of the local flamenco clubs lurk—shuttered until midnight, when the Cinderella dancers wake. Along the canal’s edge, in a storefront bar called Lo Nuestro, a lone guitarist strums a ferocious beat beside an idle bartender who unabashedly belts out a plaintive ballad to an empty room beneath the requisite picture of the weeping Virgin. By 3 a.m. the guitar is even more insistent, the bartender is too busy to sing, and the crowd is clapping and stomping along. Next door, couples are swirling in a passionate sevillana under the whirl of ceiling fans working hard—not hard enough. A few blocks away at Casa Anselma, an impromptu session has broken out in a sweaty room beneath antique flamenco posters and...the weeping Virgin. owhere in Seville is the dramatic commingling of life’s suffering and glory more on display than at las corridas, or bullfights. It’s easy—and perhaps correct—to decry bullfighting as barbaric, as cruelty to animals of the highest order. But to grasp Seville in any real way, you must at least make an effort to come to terms with what los toros mean to Sevillanos.

“It is part of us. It is inside us,” Seville native Cristina Vega tells me from her family’s sombrerería on Calle Sierpes, the city’s pedestrian-only main shopping thoroughfare. “It would be a great loss for us if bullfighting were no more.”

It’s the assumptive sentiment of many around town, one that I hear often.

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Before entering into the whitewashed cathedral of pomp and death, the spectators at nearby bars buzz in anticipation.

A working-class crowd spills out onto Calle Adriano from Café-Bar Taquilla. Beer and excited chatter flow freely beneath the framed black-and-white photos of legendary bulls and famous toreros. On the way to his first bullfight, a young boy, no more than five, stands on a stool at a tapas bar beside his father, his chin rising just above the edge of one of the high tables, chomping on a plate of fried potatoes and ketchup. Around the corner, a more upscale crowd crushes elbows at Bodeguita A. Romero, a favorite venue for corrida aficionados. The well-dressed throng shouts orders from three-deep at the bar for rabo de toro (oxtail) and piripi (Seville’s answer to the BLT).

Once the 14,000 are packed inside, three toreros will each fight a pair of bulls over the next two hours. On this night it is las novilladas, young bullfighters making their early professional outings. The evening lacks the polish I’ve seen with more experienced bullfighters—although the prerequisite feline machismo is on full display. The famously discerning and notoriously demanding crowd is generous and appreciative of the novices.

Before his second bull, Juan Solís (“El Manriqueño”), a local boy who looks about 16, doffs his montera to the crowd and walks to the edge of the ring. He leans over the wall, speaking to an older man in the first row to whom he bears a striking resemblance. The young warrior’s face is earnest as he dedicates this bull to the man I assume to be his father or, at least, a mentor. When young Solís has finished his declaration, he offers the cap, with solemnity, to the man. Unapologetic tears pour down the older man’s cheeks. He makes no move to wipe them away as the boy with the red cape struts toward the heaving animal in the center of the dirt ring, sword in hand. Bullfighting may have become a dying and politically incorrect relic in many places—including parts of Spain—but on this night in Seville, it is deeply personal, and alive.

Like all places of real interest, Seville thrives on its contradictions. It can seem like a small town, yet I get lost daily along the narrow, misdirected lanes. It has a strong Catholic legacy, with the towering cathedral as its centerpiece, but so much of the city’s architecture and feel is decidedly Moorish. In the happenstance gatherings on street corners there is a strong provincial sense of life’s assurances, while the neighborhoods of Triana and Macarena have an edgy, evolving atmosphere. Restaurants such as Nikkei Bar, serving Japanese-Peruvian fusion, and the slow food establishment Contenedor, with its retro, urban-hipster vibe, are bringing new life, but nearby at the walled Monasterio de Santa Paula things are still rooted in the past.

I lift the old bronze knocker and let it fall against the heavy wooden door embedded in the high, whitewashed wall. After a few minutes the door creaks open and a tiny, heavily creased nun in full habit inspects the intruder. I’ve been told that the sisters make a sweet marmalade; I say as much. The nun nods. Unflattered, she silently admits me. I 138

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follow beneath a grove of orange trees, past the cloister, into a spartan, wood-paneled room. The sister reaches under the counter and produces a small jar.

“Three euro, eighty,” she tells me.

I have only a five-euro note and I hand it to her. The bill disappears under her garment; she offers me no change.

It’s then, outside the convent, after the heavy door slams behind me, that I move impulsively farther from the center of town, deeper into the daily life of Seville. I pass the drunk in the park, and the small man painting; gravitating without conscious thought to the Basílica de la Macarena. And while the young couple kneels before a priest to be married at the altar, I’m confronted with the weeping Virgin above the tabernacle.

Wandering the street, I didn’t know where I was headed; as I entered the church, I wondered why. Strangely, it never occurred to me to seek out the statue—which speaks perhaps to the ethereal, dreamlike presence the image has occupied in my mind since first seeing the photograph so many years ago. Yet encountering her now—all of a sudden, after so long— the sensation is that of discovering the familiar at last.

Excitement and comfort, surprise and relief, delight and wonder all mingle. Maybe these feelings are elicited by my surroundings in the cavernous, ornate church; after all, these are among the sensations religion endeavors to evoke.

But I think perhaps it’s something else. My passions, it occurs to me with satisfaction, stem from finally having kept my long-held date—with Seville. ✚

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T L Guide

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FRANCE

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PORTUGAL

ANDALUSIA SEVILLE CÁDIZ

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160 K M

STAY Corral del Rey 7 & 12 Calle Corral del Rey; corraldelrey.com; doubles from €194.

Hacienda de San Rafael Km 594, Crta. N-IV; hacienda​de​sanrafael.com; doubles from €220.

Hotel Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel A grande dame in the city center. 2 San Fernando; luxurycollection.com; doubles from €224.

EAT Bodega Dos de Mayo 6 Plaza de la Gavidia; comerdetapas ensevilla.es; tapas for two €18.

Bodeguita A. Romero 19 Calle Antonia Díaz; 34-95/422-3939; tapas for two €12.

Casa Anselma 49 Calle Pagés del Corro; drinks for two €14.

Contenedor 50 Calle San Luis; contenedorcultural.com; dinner for two €40.

El Rinconcillo 40 Calle Gerona; 34-95/422-3183; tapas for two €14.

Eslava 3 Calle Eslava; espacio​eslava.com; tapas for two €24.

Nikkei Bar 34 Calle Calatrava; tapas for two €21.

DO Basílica de la Macarena 1 Calle Bécquer; hermandaddela​ macarena.es.

Lo Nuestro 31 Calle Betis; 34-65/880-9003.

Monasterio de Santa Paula 11 Calle Santa Paula; santapaula.es.

Museo del Baile Flamenco 3 Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos; museoflamenco.com.

Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Paseo de Colón; real​maestranza.com.

“One of the most thrilling nights you’ll ever experience in a theatre!”

Phil Roura, New York Daily News

SPAIN Sunday 28 September 7.30pm Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800 Supported by Embassy of Spain

“When Portuguese singer Teresa Salgueiro sings, there is hardly anything more beautiful....

Each song is beautifully crafted…”

Nenad Georgievski, allaboutjazz.com

TERESA SALGUEIRO

An evening with

PORTUGAL Wednesday 22 October 7.30pm

Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800 Supported by Embassy of Portugal

Hotline 02 262 3191 www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)

www.bangkokfestivals.com

VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm

Our Definitive Guide to

With forward-thinking chefs, green urban spaces and a laid-back sensibility, Portland, Oregon, is one of the most ascendantly cool American cities. Kathryn O’Shea-Evans checks out the scene. Photographed by Dina Avila

A mural of Mount Hood at Danner, an Oregon-based boot company in downtown Portland.

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SOUTHEAST

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Lay of the Land North Portland This rapidly gentrifying arts district is dotted with galleries and shops.

Northwest Victorian town houses and boutiques line the streets of this leafy neighborhood.

Old Town Welcome to Chinatown, where street food vendors hawk snacks and stores sell quirky bric-a-brac.

Pearl District With its warehouses now converted into luxury lofts, the Pearl District is downtown Portland’s upscale style center.

Southeast This sprawling area has indie shops and Craftsman bungalows; it’s also home to Division Street, the city’s newly minted restaurant row.

West End In downtown’s creative hub, hipsters converge at packed cafés and buzzy lounges.

Getting Around To explore the city, hop on a bike (pedalbiketours.com), take the TriMet light rail (trimet.org), or rent a car.

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From left: A room at the Sentinel; the lobby at the Ace Hotel.

Stay

Looking for a high-design retreat downtown? Or a distinctive waterfront landmark? Here, the city’s top hotels.

ACE HOTEL Everything you’d expect from the Ace brand is at this Portland outpost in the West End: hoodie robes, Pendleton blankets and, in Deluxe rooms, turntables (and LP’s from local legends such as Pink Martini).

The bar-​meets-​breakfast-buffet in Room 215 is full of local fare, from Clyde Common granola and house-made rhubarb jam to Olympic Provisions charcuterie and smoked trout. acehotel.com; shared singles from $155.

THE HEATHMAN Adjacent to the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, this 1927 mainstay has Art Deco–inspired interiors and a contemporary art collection with works by Andy Warhol, Hap Tivey and Henk Pender. Don’t miss the weekend brunch (order malted Belgian waffles with brandysoaked cherry compote). portland. heathman​hotel.com; $299.

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THE NINES On the upper floors of Portland’s 1909 Meier & Frank department store, the Nines has 331 rooms decorated in Tiffany-blue velvets and dark woods. At night, head to Departure, the rooftop Pan-Asian restaurant and bar, for coconut-cream cocktails and an Instagram-​​worthy view of Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens volcano. thenines.com; $384.

lounge for a negroni. riverplace​ hotel.com; $475.

RIVERPLACE Tucked away on a quiet bend of the Willamette River, the 85-room Kimpton was recently revamped with an Out of Africa aesthetic (tufted leather headboards; braided-rope armchairs; tribal art). Borrow a bike to explore the waterfront, then return to the hotel’s lobby

THE SENTINEL A Rose City icon since 1909, this grande dame is fresh from a top-to-bottom overhaul. The Northwest-style touches include mounted wooden deer heads, framed Columbia Gorge sword ferns and souvenirs of “genuine Portland rain” in the mini-bar. sentinelhotel.com; $209.

HOTEL DELUXE Built in 1912, the Hotel Deluxe has Hollywood Regency interiors, with stills from classics by Hitchcock, Capra and more. We love the Marlene Dietrich Suite, with its 2.5-meter circular bed and shimmering crystal lamps. hoteldeluxe​portland.com; $199.

Hotel prices are in US dollars, and represent starting rates for double occupancy, unless otherwise noted.

The Tom & Gretchen Holce Gallery at the Portland Art Museum. Left: Outside the museum. Below: Hiking to the Pittock Mansion.

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Clockwise from top: Skopik & Lohn; inside Steirereck; a plate of puntarelle, artichoke, lychee tomatoes, and yellow-foot mushrooms at Steirereck.

See Do 1

Portland Art Museum The oldest museum in the Northwest houses nearly 800 Japanese woodblock prints and indigenous work excavated from the Columbia River Gorge. This summer’s premier exhibit: “The Art of the Louvre’s Tuileries Garden,” which considers the Paris park as inspiration for paintings by Manet and Pissarro, and large-scale sculptures by Antoine Coysevox. portland​artmuseum.org.

Five spots worth the trip.

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Pittock Mansion Built in 1914 for the owner of the Oregonian newspaper, this French Renaissance–style estate is open for tours and popular with birdwatchers, who come to spot raptors and warblers.

We suggest combining your visit with a hike on the 8-kilometer Lower Macleay Park Trail, past old-growth evergreens and Balch Creek. pittockmansion.org.

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Smith Teamaker Years after local entrepreneur Steven Smith started (and sold) Stash Tea and Tazo, he launched this tea company with a tasting room in a 1900’s blacksmith’s shop.

Order the tea flight for a guided tour of varied infusions (our favorite, Jasmine Pearls, is hand-rolled and scented with jasmine blossoms). smithtea.com.

Shop

Wildfang boutique.

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Portland Japanese Garden Hidden away in the West Hills overlooking the city are nearly 2.5 hectares of cultivated gardens inspired by Japanese botanical design. Cross irisembellished bridges and a waterfall in the Strolling Pond area, then Zen out in the raked karesansui Sand and Stone Garden. japanese​garden.com.

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Powell’s Books A bibliophile mecca, this 6,300-square-meter bookstore is filled with new and used titles and hosts frequent author readings (recent notables: Junot Díaz and Jimmy Carter). In the rare-​book room, you’ll find two first-edition 1814 volumes by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark priced at US$350,000.

(Yes, that purchase qualifies for free shipping.) powells.com.

Our picks for made-in-Portland clothing, housewares and more.

A band of ex-Nike executives recently opened Wildfang (wildfang.com), a well-curated boutique that stocks trendy men’s-style shirts and suits for women (Wildfang means “tomboy” in German). Among the 80 brands: Tilda Swinton–worthy labels such as Shades of Grey and Red Wing boots inspired by Annie Oakley. At Beam & Anchor (beamandanchor.com), you will find ties made from vintage Japanese boro fabric, wild-harvested Douglas fir tea and Eames rocking chairs reupholstered in the workroom upstairs. In a 1910 former wool warehouse, the Portland flagship of interiors shop Schoolhouse Electric (schoolhouseelectric.com) carries hand-loomed herringbone rugs, exposed-bulb chandeliers and tufted velvet headboards with kiln-dried alder-wood frames. For leather hiking boots, head to Danner (danner.com), a Portland-based shoe company beloved by loggers and indie musicians.

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PORTLAND

Multnomah Whiskey Library. Left: The dining room at Castagna.

Below: A “terrarium” with cipollini-onion custard and pea vines at Castagna.

Wine Country Detour

Eat

Here, the places to sip and stay in the Willamette Valley.

Where to dine in Portland now.

AVA GENE’S At this trattoria from Stumptown Coffee founder Duane Sorenson, chef Joshua McFadden turns out Italian dishes such as rabbit agnolotti with chicory and striped bass with duck-egg mayonnaise. avagenes.com; $100.

Beard Award–winning chef Gabriel Rucker’s kitchen to watch tattooed cooks turn out meat-​centric platters: beefcheek bourguignonne and—of course—​squab, served here with kumquats and charred marrowbone. lepigeon.com; $100.

CASTAGNA Justin Woodward, a Noma alum, spotlights foraged ingredients.

What to expect? A 12-course tasting with, perhaps, Dungeness crab and yellow-foot chanterelles with an infusion of hops. castagna​restaurant.com; tasting menu from $75 per person.

MULTNOMAH WHISKEY LIBRARY Portland’s hottest restaurant is a speakeasy-like bar in a former piano store, with stainedglass skylights and more than 1,100 types of whiskey. Order an Old-Fashioned from the roving bar cart and, for dinner, Kentucky fried quail with a smoked-blue-cheese biscuit. mwlpdx.com; $50.

LAURELHURST MARKET A former convenience store is now an airy brasserie and trendy butcher shop. A standout is the pan-​seared imperial Wagyu steak with caramelized radicchio. laurelhurst​market.com; $90.

LE PIGEON Grab a seat at the bar of James

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NED LUDD Chef Jason French cooks everything over a cherry- and maple-wood fire. The result: roasted Idaho trout and charred brussels sprouts with lemon, feta and farro—all presented on

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mismatched vintage plates. Pair it with house-made nettle soda. nedluddpdx.com; $60.

ROE Slip through the hidden back door at Block & Tackle restaurant to an otherworldly seafood paradise. The four-course tasting might include poachedcalamari ceviche with a Thai herb emulsion and lime crisp or mero (sea bass) with hedgehog mushrooms. roe-pdx.com; tasting menus from $70 per person.

SEN YAI Andy Ricker’s latest—a drive-up Thai-street-food noodle shop— joins his bucket-list stop Pok Pok. Try the Singaporean coconut curry rice noodle soup and any of the vinegar spritzers. pokpoksen yai.com; $40.

Restaurant rates are in US dollars, and represent approximate prices for dinner for two, unless noted.

Just 48 kilometers outside Portland, two of Oregon’s pioneering wine families have new, modern tasting rooms. At Sokol Blosser (sokolblosser.com), the first LEED-certified winery facility in the United States, a cedar-walled and hickory-​ floored room overlooks the red hills of Dundee; sample the Pinot Noir. In summer, you can take a four-hour guided hike through the vineyards—complete with a picnic lunch. A brief drive north, the 52-hectare Ponzi Vineyards (ponzi​wines.com) is known for its fruity Arneis.

Bring a glass of Pinot Gris to the bocce court or stay in the airy tasting room for a flight with smoked salmon, ricotta and house-made crackers. The Allison Inn & Spa (theallison.com; $350) is a cozy place for a night or two; all 85 rooms have gas fireplaces, soaking tubs and balconies looking out over the vines.

From left: Inside Black Book Guitars; roasted rapini with egg and black-olive salsa at Davenport; biking in Mount Tabor Park.

Local Take Three insiders share their top places in the city.

COLIN MELOY

Lead singer of the Decemberists and author of Wildwood Chronicles

I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y L A U R E N N A S S E F

“My favorite spots happen to be within a single block on North Mississippi Avenue. Reading Frenzy (reading​frenzy.com) is an amazing small-press bookstore that’s been a Portland institution since the nineties. It shares a building with Black Book Guitars (blackbook​ guitars.com), a left-of-center music shop that stocks retro and odd instruments. Down the street, Por Qué No Taquería (porquenotacos. com; US$30) serves ‘Bryan’s bowl’ (meat or vegetables, rice, beans, guacamole and queso fresco).”

Café Cool Get your daily jolt at these three coffee roasters.

CHERYL STRAYED

Author of Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail

NAOMI POMEROY

Chef-owner of Beast and Expatriate

“I love the feeling of being a regular, so I go to the same places a lot.

Davenport (davenport​pdx.com; US$60), a restaurant in Northeast, focuses on local flavors and has an excellent wine list. Try the nettle dumpling in chicken broth. On Southeast 82nd, Ha&VL (1-503/7720103) is a hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese joint with bánh mì; the two soup specials sell out quickly, so get there early. Nearby, Hong Phat (hongphat​market.com) is an Asian grocery—my one-​stop shop for ingredients like banana blossoms.”

Heart Owned by Finnish pro snowboarder Wille Yli-Luoma, Heart has Scandinavian interiors and a Hikari siphon table that vacuum-steams grounds to bring out flavor. heartroasters.com.

Coava Coffee Roasters At this low-key café, your single-origin cup may come from Las Capucas, Honduras, or Kilenso, Ethiopia, but it’s roasted in-house by a vintage Probat at the bamboolined bar. coavacoffee.com.

“I can’t think of a more inspiring destination to begin a Portland adventure than Mt. Tabor Park (portlandoregon.gov). Hike or bike to the summit for a stunning view of the city. For lunch, don’t miss Costello’s Travel Caffé (costellos​travelcaffe.com) on Northeast Broadway, my go-to neighborhood hangout. It has the best chocolate pie in town. A short walk away, you can sample wines at Great Wine Buys (greatwinebuys.com); the staff members always recommend exceptional reds, whites and sparkling from both near and far.”

Water Avenue Coffee You’ll find truly inventive brews at this spot in the Southeast Industrial District, where raw beans from El Salvador are aged in Pinot Noir barrels before roasting. wateravenue​coffee.com.

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Last Look

Fortified Korea Namhansanseong, 25 kilometers from Seoul, was a defensive capital of the Joseon dynasty, spanning 1392 to 1910. The site of a fabled military stand against China’s Qing in 1636, it also harbored antiJapanese guerrillas a century ago.

Along the Silk Route The 5,000-kilometer Chang’anTianshan Corridor runs into China (above) from Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The trail of capitals, temples, even bits of the Great Wall, is—like all the locations here—now on the unesco World Heritage List.

Cliffs and caves

Apsara aqueduct

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Rani-ki-Vav, or the Queen’s Stepwell, in Gujarat, India, is a multi-story work of art and architecture; a water repository that’s also an inverted temple full of 800 carvings themed on the 10 incarnations of Vishnu.

Limestone karst peaks permeated with vivid green valleys define the Trang An landscape found along the south shore of Vietnam’s Red River delta. Human activity here dates back 30,000 years.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: F E N G W E I P H O T O G R A P H Y/G E T T Y I M A G E S ; K A N G H E E W A N / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; P H O T O L I B R A R Y/ G E T T Y I M A G E S ; P R I Y E S H B A L A K R I S H N A N / G E T T Y I M A G E S

Asian Heritage