June 2011

SOUTHEAST ASIA

JUNE 2011

HOTELS

Issue

T+L’s best new hotels

IT LIST 2011

BURMA

GUIDE TO KENGTUNG

BEST SERVICE REVEALED!

JAKARTA

Designers reveal local travel tips

Top properties, personal touch

GEORGE TOWN’S BOUTIQUE BOOM

10

EYE-POPPING ASIAN POOLS

HONG KONG

FOUND! HOTTEST EATERIES IN TOWN

SINGAPORE SG$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000

Tra ve l a n d L e i s u re A s i a . c o m

contents

june 2011 volume 05 : issue 06

features

128 Pure Sweden In a country that reveres nature as much as design, heather smith macisaac checks in to four new hotels that elevate both equally. photographed by martha camarillo. map 130, guide 133

110 4 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

The Fullerton Bay Hotel in Singapore.

109 Special Section It List 2011 For T+L’s annual It List, we traversed the globe, putting the latest crop of hotels to the test. Here, our 50 favorite new properties, from a pioneering farmstead in South Africa to a sexy Manhattan skyscraper. Read on for this year’s groundbreakers.

c o u r t e s y o f t h e f u l l e r t o n b ay h o t e l

120 Road to the Past In Kengtung, robert turnbull discovers some timeless scenes in a remote corner of Burma, though the journey isn’t without some modern hassles. photographed by angela srisomwongwathana. guide 126

contents

june 2011 volume 05 : issue 06 T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA HOTELS ISSUE / IT LIST 2011 / HONG KONG / BURMA / PENANG / SWEDEN / JAKARTA / WORLD’S BEST SERVICE

SOUTHEAST ASIA

JUNE 2011

HOTELS

Issue

T+L’s best new hotels

IT LIST 2011

BURMA

GUIDE TO KENGTUNG

BEST SERVICE REVEALED!

JAKARTA

Designers reveal local travel tips

Top properties, personal touch

10

GEORGE TOWN’S BOUTIQUE BOOM

EYE-POPPING ASIAN POOLS

HONG KONG J U N E 2011

FOUND! HOTTEST EATERIES IN TOWN

SINGAPORE SG$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000

06 JUNE CoverMLJUv8.indd 1

Tra ve l a n d L e i s u re A s i a . c o m

18/05/2011 11:55

On the cover

Photographed by Tom Hoops. Styled

by Akaphol Ruthaiyanont. Model: Terra.

Hair and make-up by Kitty Kittiya. Photo assistant: Ami Lertpricha. Stylist assistant: Supaporn Teawvong. Dress by Emilio Pucci; bracelet by Miu Miu; W Retreat— Koh Samui, Thailand.

41 55

41 Awards Behind every memorable hotel experience are

the staffers who make it happen.

That’s why every year, T+L spotlights the top properties in

nine regions that excel in service,

as rated by readers in the World’s

Best survey. What’s new in 2011?

We’ve divided the lists into city and resort categories, so we can

highlight more winners with a

range of styles—from formal

to casual.

newsflash 48 The world’s highest hotel, ladies only trips, China’s artistic olive

branch and more.

insider

58 6 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

55 Preservation Penang’s new

crop of boutique heritage hotels

blend history, style and design.

by robyn eckhardt 58 Room Report In Tokyo, an

iconic stay is reimagined as the

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : COURTESY OF MAN D ARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL G ROUP ; co u rt esy o f ca p i to l h ot e l to ky u ; co u rt e sy o f M u n t r i m e ws

29 Strategies A special report

on how hotel loyalty is paying

off in new ways, plus where to

find the best deals.

contents

june 2011 volume 05 : issue 06

stunning Capitol Hotel Tokyo. by lara day

60 Chef faves Local eating

advice from four chefs in

four cities. by howie kahn 65 Hotel pools Asia’s most

eye-popping new swimming

pools revealed. by naomi lindt 70 cool jobs What is a day

in the life like for a head butler at

London’s Lanesborough Hotel?

by kathryn o’shea-evans 74 High+low Two boutique

hotels in Singapore, at two

different prices. by daven wu

stylish 77 fashion Ralph Lauren looks

East. styled by mimi lombardo 78 Spotlight Indonesia’s young

designers step out.

by sara schonhardt 80 bring it back The charm of

hotel notepads. by oliver strand 82 Jewelry Where three gem seeking creatives travel for

inspiration. by mimi lombardo 8 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

84 Shopping In Singapore,

style-savvy locals are opening up

crossover stores, mixing culture

and cocktails, couture and cuisine.

by liang xinyi

95 Check-in A 19th-century Irish estate is restored to its former

glory, reopening as a luxurious

hotel. by christopher mason.

photographed by john kernick

journals

101 Design With a smart new design hotel set to open this summer,

Manhattan’s west Chelsea

neighborhood continues its

remarkable ascendancy. by

karrie jacobs. photographed

by emiliano granado

89 Food Where to eat now in Hong

Kong, where time is money and

the laws of supply and demand

rule? lara day lines up the city’s

hottest new restaurants.

photographed by samantha sin

77

104Essay Panoramic views, royal-

worthy amenities, antique soaking

tubs—these days hotel bathrooms

are grabbing the spotlight, writes

adam sachs

departments 10 In This Issue 12 Editor’s Note 16 Contributors 18 Mail 20 Best Deals 22 Ask T+L 24 smart traveler 136 My Favorite Place

c l o c k w i s e f r o m to p l e f t : S i m o n Wat s o n ; S a m a n t h a S i n ; T e r u O n i s h i

89

104

in this issue

Sweden 128 Ireland 95

New York City 60, 101

Hong Kong 20, 48, 65, 89 Kengtung, Burma 120

Penang 50, 55

Southeast Asia Bali 65 Bangkok 20, 51 Hong Kong 20, 48, 65, 89 Hue 20 Jakarta 50, 78 Kengtung, Burma 120 Kuala Lumpur 20, 65 Macau 65 Penang 50, 55 Siem Reap 20, 50 Singapore 74, 84 Tagaytay, Philippines 50

travel tip

Asia Beijing 22 Lhasa 65 Maldives 49

Taipei 50, 52 Tokyo 58 Yunnan, China 20 Australia and New Zealand Melbourne 60 Otago 136 Europe Ireland 95 London 70 Paris 60 Sweden 126 United Kingdom 52 The Americas Mexico City 60 New York City 60, 101

Active and Adventure

134

Arts + Culture

120

City

101

Culture + History

51, 55

Design

80, 82, 128

Fashion

77, 78

Food + Drink

52, 60, 89

Hotels + Resorts

29, 41, 48, 65, 70, 74, 95, 104, 109

Shopping

84

Travel Tips

20, 24, 26, 52

Featured Destination

Sweden

In the far north of Europe, Sweden offers a wonderful summer climate, one underlined with countless food festivals and the nation-wide June 24-26 midsummer celebrations. In the south, Skane is noted for its organic farming and the variety of dishes that provides, while in the west, Gothenburg is the place for fresh seafood at any time of year. (See page 128 for more on Sweden.)

10 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

martha camarillo (3)

trip ideas

DESTINATIONS

editor’s note where to find me )) matt@mediatransasia.com )) matt leppard tlsea on Facebook

PICKS OF THE MONTH Some of my personal hotel favorites from the last 12 months.

Bangkok St. Regis Along with classic St. Regis elegance and service in a premium downtown location, you will be pleasantly surprised by the sensational golf course views.

159 Rajadamri Rd.; stregis.com/Bangkok.

I am here for the spectacular Arabian Travel Mart, representing Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, recently named “Magazine of the Year” (yay us!) by Marketing magazine. I am also making progress on When the Astors Owned New York. This riveting read details the 19thcentury lives of the Astors, and hopefully the astute among you will have made a connection to the Waldorf Astoria hotel. John Jacob Astor also built the first St. Regis, and to transition all this together, I toured the swanky new St. Regis Bangkok a few weeks ago, which means I’m able to compare it with the Armani. The St. Regis is a connoisseur’s hotel: plush and elegant, soft and sublime, with top service and views over the sweeping golf greens of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club. At the Armani, you’re greeted by a phalanx of alpha males clad in black tees then ushered into stylishly curvy rooms. Sliding wall panels reveal your TV and your James Bond tuxedo, while your view is of gleaming metal, glass

and sun—plus the ubiquitous cranes. So hotels in the same class can be as different as apples and bananas. Thus, those featured in the “It List” (page 109) are arranged by category this year, so you can find your ideal hotel, be it a design-driven dream or a sprawling beach resort. Meanwhile, to allow you to pick your property properly, be sure to utilize T+L’s Martini Index, part of our “Hotel Files 2011” Strategies guide (page 29). Closer to home, I hope you get to use our roundup of the best hotel pools in Southeast Asia (“Take a Dip,” page 65). These aquamarine havens have been close to my heart since my first overseas trip to Majorca, aged 11. Back then, the magic of lazy blue water slapping poolsides meant a whole day of blissful indulgence. Sadly, I rarely get to enjoy pools on work trips now, although I was tempted by a plunge into the soft, cyan water at the Fullerton Bay Hotel once. Well, it was a very warm and special T+L SEA party that night.— m at t l e p pa r d

Dubai The Armani Hotel Despite the absolute dedication to design, still a worthwhile experience and one to tell your friends (and readers) about.

The only rooms with remotes that summon "lifestyle managers" (read: butlers).

Burj Khalifa; dubai. armanihotels.com.

Shanghai The PuLi Hotel & Spa When I stayed here, I was overwhelmed by the sense of timelessness that washed over me at check-in and onwards. A quiet retreat from the urban chaos. No. 1 Changde Rd.; thepuli.com/en/.

travel + leisure editors , writers and photographers are the industry ’s most reliable sources . while on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.

12 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

tom ho ops

I am writing this from the Armani Hotel, at t h e b a s e o f t h e s t e e ly, g l e a m i n g a n d i m p o ss i b ly l o f t y B u r j K h a l i fa i n D u b a i .

Bali Kayumanis, Ubud Snuggle in the jungle: a perfect romantic getaway with private pool villas, fourposter beds and no kids under 16 allowed!

Kayumanis Jimbaran Private Estate and Spa, Jln. Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran; kayumanis.com.

editor-in-chief art director deputy editor features editor senior DEsigner DEsigner ASSISTANT editor/Illustrator Assistant Editor

Matt Leppard James Nvathorn Unkong Christopher Kucway Lara Day Wannapha Nawayon Sirirat Prajakthip Wasinee Chantakorn Liang Xinyi

Regular contributors / photographers Cedric Arnold, Jennifer Chen, Robyn Eckhardt, Philipp Engelhorn, David Hagerman, Lauryn Ishak, Naomi Lindt, Jen Lin-Liu, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Adam Skolnick, Darren Soh, Daven Wu

chairman president publishing director

Current Issue

now on

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publishER director singapore / associate publisher DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER business development managers CONSULTANT, HONG KONG/MACAU chief financial officer production manager production group circulation MANAGER circulation assistant

J.S. Uberoi Egasith Chotpakditrakul Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj

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travel+leisure southeast asia Vol. 5, Issue 6 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher.

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angela srisomwongwathana photographer

heather smith macisaac writer

ASSIGNMENT Photographed our Burma story, “Road to the Past” (page 118).

ADVICE ON BURMA Kengtung is always quiet and cool at night, a wonderful escape. Just don’t photograph any government office, a major no no.

FAVE SPOT IN KENGTUNG Naung Tung, the biggest lake in the middle of the town, to sit and relax while sipping a cup of tea viewing the hilly town in the background. DIGITAL OR FILM Both are good in their own way. While digital is practical, I still prefer film, especially black and white when it comes to fine-art photography. DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT...

At least one camera.

DREAM TRIP Walking the French route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

assignment “Pure Sweden” (page 126). favorite hotel room in sweden My all-natural, exquisitely crafted hut at Urnatur Skogseremitage. eye-popping memory The brilliant orange and green of just-cooked crayfish, atop a moss-inspired tray designed by one of Urnatur’s owners.

Best souvenir A curly, silky gray sheepskin from a farm on Gotland. the secret to great design Awareness of the senses. mistake hotel designers make Not sleeping in the room.

Live and learn. when in sweden Stop at the gas stations—they have great candy.

christopher mason writer assignment “The Manor Reborn” (page 95). coolest thing about ireland’s ballyfin hotel The scrambled eggs, courtesy of their brood of free-range chickens. strange but true In the early 20th century, bananas were cultivated in Ballyfin’s conservatory to dazzle visitors. you wish you could take home The Neoclassical cascade at Ballyfin (it’s unlikely to appear anytime soon out the window of my Manhattan apartment). if you owned a B&B, it would be...

On a Caribbean island, with vegetarian fare conjured by yours truly.

TOP ROW , FROM LEFT : c o u r t e s y o f a n g e l a s r i s o m w o n g w a t h a n a ; B a c a n o v i c ; C o u r t e s y o f h e a t h e r s m i t h m a c i s a a c .

BOTTOM ROW , FROM LEFT : a n g e l a s r i s o m w o n g w a t h a n a ; j o h n k e r n i c k ; m a r t h a c a m a r i l l o .

contributors

come for the

mail

views...

Letter of the month One More Night

It was good to see someone finally cover Kuala Lumpur’s funky nightlife scene [“Malaysian Vibe,” May 2011], but there’s a world of spots not to miss that you, well, missed. That’s not to say what you covered wasn’t worthy, but

A Lion City Roar

...stay

for the experience

2011 & 2010 CONDE NAST TRAVELLER GOLD LIST World’s Best Hotels and Resorts 2010 CONDE NAST READERS’ SPA AWARDS #1 Spa in the World 2010 TRAVEL + LEISURE

In his letter, “Singapore Blues” [March 2011], Jackson Kho dismisses the Lion City as an “insipid and sterile tiny red dot,” yet he chooses to visit the island nation at least once a year.

Unlike certain destinations that are stuck in a time warp, Singapore is always on the move, constantly seeking to diversify and enhance the experiences it offers to both local residents and visitors alike, and thereby justifying the media coverage by magazines like Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia. The city-state has never claimed to be a haven for nature, but as shown by the opening of a national park by Marina Bay later this year, for example, it’s certainly

you should revisit this topic sooner rather than later, since the city always has something new to offer after hours. Anyone who hasn’t visited lately should definitely put KL at the top of their to-visit list.

—johnny choo, kuala lumpur

one of the greenest urban centers anywhere in the world. Like many travelers, I agree with Kho that Indonesia, Thailand and Malaysia have far better natural treks than Singapore, but only because that’s not what a tiny commercial and financial hub can offer. But better restaurants? It really depends on what cuisine he’s talking about. As for spas, perhaps he should visit the Remede Spa at the St. Regis the next time he’s in town. Clearly there is room for T+L SEA to satisfy the appetite of readers like Kho for the new and adventurous by helping him trek hip neighourhoods of key urban jungles in the Asia–Pacific region, starting with Singapore, of course.

—sylvester toh, singapore

World’s Top 20 Hotels for Value Overall

e-mail t+l

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran 80364 T.(62) 361-702 222 | E.reservation@ayanaresort.com www.ayanaresort.com

Send your letters to editor@travelandleisuresea.com and let us know your thoughts on recent stories or new places to visit.

Letters chosen may be edited for clarity and space. The letter of the month receives a free one-year subscription to Travel + Leisure (Southeast Asia only). Reader opinions expressed in letters do not necessarily reflect those of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Media Transasia Ltd., or American Express Publishing.

bestdeals

budget-friendly tips for your travel planning

AFFORDABLE ASIAN TRIPS

deal of the month s n a p

La Résidence Hotel & Spa, Vietnam.

Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur Hotel.

JUST FOR TWO

MALAYSIA Romance package at the Sheraton Imperial Kuala Lumpur Hotel

(60-3/2717-9900; sheraton.com/imperial kualalumpur). What’s Included A stay in a Deluxe room; daily breakfast; a bottle of sparkling wine; a 20-minute couples’ foot massage; 25 percent off dining and spa; and check-out until 4 p.m. Cost From RM405 per room per night, double, through June 30. Savings 65 percent.

FAMILY GETAWAY

VIETNAM Family Bonding package at La Résidence Hotel & Spa (84-54/383-7475; laresidence-hue.com) in Hue. What’s Included

Pullman Lijiang Resort & Spa, China.

check-out until 2 p.m. if available.

Cost From HK$1,600 per night, double, through August 31. Savings 31 percent.

BANGKOK LUXE

THAILAND Bangkok Debut package at the St. Regis Bangkok (66-2/207-7777; stregis. com/bangkok). What’s Included A stay in a

Deluxe room, with an upgrade to an Executive Deluxe room; a choice of either breakfast or a two-course dinner at Viu for two; one Bt1,000 Elemis Spa voucher per person; and Internet access. Cost From Bt7,300 per night, double, through June 30. Savings Up to 65 percent.

A two-night stay in Deluxe room; roundtrip airport transfers; daily breakfast; one couples’ massage; one kids’ cooking class; a half-day family tour of Hue city; a family picnic; and free babysitting. Cost US$550 (US$275 per night), a maximum of two adults and one child under 12, through December 20. Saving 35 percent.

20th Anniversary package at The Sukhothai (66-2/344-8888; sukhothai.com). What’s Included A stay in a Superior room; daily breakfast; mini-bar soft drinks; free Internet; use of fitness club; and a Bt1,200 dining and spa credit. Cost From Bt7,800 per night, double, two-night minimum, through October 31. SAvings 29 percent.

city break

rustic RETREAT

HonG Kong Touch Experience package at The Luxe Manor (852/3763-8880; theluxemanor.com). What’s Included A stay

in a Deluxe room; round-trip airport transfers for one; fast check-in and checkout; breakfast; Internet access; local calls; pressing of one garment; gym access; and 20 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

CAMBODIA Pay 2 Stay 3 promotion at The Samar Villas & Spa Resort (85563/762-449; samarvillas. com) in Siem Reap.

What’s Included A threenight stay in a Junior suite for the price of two; daily à la carte breakfast; one cocktail per person at Fou Nan Lounge; daily barber service for men and one facial treatment for women; and tuk-tuk shuttles to downtown.

Cost From US$250 (US$84 per night), double, through September 30.

Savings Up to 55 percent.

CHINA Spring/Summer promotion at the Pullman Lijiang Resort & Spa (86-888/5300111; pullman-hotels.com) in Yunnan. What’s Included A three-night stay in a Deluxe King room; and free Internet. Cost

RMB1,074 per night, double, through June 30. Savings 33 percent.

The Samar Villas & Spa Resort, Cambodia.

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : c o u r t e s y o f L a R é s i d e n c e H o t e l & Sp a ; c o u r t e s y o f Sh e r a t o n I m p e r i a l K u a l a L u m p u r H o t e l ; c o u r t e s y o f P u l l m a n L i j i a n g R e s o r t & Sp a ; c o u r t e s y o f Th e S a m a r V i l l a s & Sp a R e s o r t

i t

What’s the latest news on using mobile phones inflight?

—Anita Wong, Hong Kong

Air New Zealand is the latest to sign up for both voice and data connections for personal phones, joining the likes of Malaysia Airlines, Emirates, Royal Jordanian and TAP Air Portugal. For its part, Singapore Airlines is still reviewing the idea. Several other airlines, including British Airways and Qatar Airways, permit text messages and e-mails, though there is talk in the US of banning mobile phone calls outright while in the air. That said, the move to permit inflight mobile calls looks inevitable: Emirates reports that it now offers the service on 85 aircrafts and, since introducing the service in 2008, has had more than five million users.

Healthy advice for your travels.

Q: Weather-wise, when is a good time to visit Beijing?

—Andy Lu, Manila a: Both spring and fall are the best times to visit the Chinese capital, a city that demands much of your time outdoors. September and October offer an average of eight hours of sunshine each day, with a less likely chance of rain and cooler temperatures the later in the year you visit. If you can’t make it then, consider either May or June, which are also good months to tour Beijing. Summers tend to see more rainfall and higher levels of humidity.

During March and April, dust storms from the north can make the city unbearable, while the winter months are often bitterly cold.

Q: Where can I find reputable health advice when traveling in Asia?

—Nicholas Lawrence, Singapore a: Prior to any trip, it’s easy to go online to do

some health checks. For starters, pay a visit to The Travel Doctor (traveldoctor.co.uk/asia. htm), which breaks down what precautions you’ll need to take, if any, by nation and then by area of that country. The site also covers specific types of maladies such as heat stroke, altitude sickness and diving-related problems.

Should you fall ill while traveling, search the International Society of Travel Medicine

(istm.org) database for country-specific clinics, which coves 65 nations around the world. The CDC Travelers’ Health website (cdc.gov/travel) also lists clinics in foreign locales and offers advice on avoiding illness and injury while traveling. And simply asking your family doctor for pre-trip advice is a good move, given that he or she is familiar with your health history. what’s your travel question?

Keeping in touch inflight.

22 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

» E-mail us at editor@travelandleisuresea.com » Post queries at Facebook.com/TravelandLeisureAsia » Follow us on Twitter at @TravLeisureAsia

(Questions may be edited for clarity and space.)

c l o c k w i s e FROM t o p LEFT : © U r m o m e n t s / D r e a m s t i m e . c o m ; © A lv a r o S / i s t o c k p h o t o . c o m ; © g c h u t k a / i s t o c k p h o t o . c o m

askt+l

Tourist crowds in the Forbidden City in Beijing.

travelandleisure.com month 2010 00

smarttraveler the ins and outs of modern travel

How Not to Get Scammed

From fake tickets to made-up rentals, Asia is the home to some of the world’s most notorious travel scams. Here, tips on how to protect yourself. By Jennifer Chen It started off as an invitation to have coffee. Wes Nation, a graphic designer from Austin, Texas, met “Mr. Giang” at a park across from his hotel in Saigon and, after a friendly chat, Giang asked Nation if they could continue their conversation over coffee the next day.

At the appointed time, Nation met up with Giang and a female companion, an alleged cousin. Their plans had changed. Instead of coffee, they insisted on taking Nation for a home-cooked meal. A friend had warned Nation about scammers who invite unsuspecting travelers to their homes and then hit them up for money for “sick relatives.” Despite the alarm bells, Nation accepted the invitation.

Waiting for them at home was another cousin, Woody, who claimed to be a dealer on a cruise ship. Fluent in 24 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

English and entertaining, Woody offered to show Nation a game called Poker 21. A friendly lesson turned into a card game with tens of thousands of US dollars on the table. By then, Nation found it hard to extricate himself. “They were very good. They had the woman sitting next to me and I was by a wall so I felt trapped,” he says. He eventually had to flee down an alley to escape the scam artists.

Taxi meters that run too quickly. Websites for travel agencies that don’t exist. Tuk-tuk tours that include unscheduled stops to half a dozen gem shops. And in Nation’s case, invitations for coffee that turn into highstakes card games that could have ended with him getting fleeced, extorted, or worse. Travel scams abound in Asia— do a search on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum and the Illustrated by Wasinee Chantakorn

majority of posts on the latest schemes are in the Asia threads. They range from the relatively harmless— students wanting to practice their English who expect you to settle a restaurant bill—to the criminal: A few years ago, a friend’s drink was spiked at a bar on Koh Samet, probably by staff hoping to rob her.

Avoiding scams usually just requires common sense.

“If a suave gentleman approached you on the side of the road in your hometown and invited you to come play cards, would you?” says Stuart Macdonald, the founder of the popular backpackers’ site, Travelfish.org. Still, even the most seasoned traveler can fall for these schemes.

Here are some suggestions on how to protect yourself:

1 Do your homework. Never heard of a travel agency? Do a quick Internet search or look at trusted travel forums to check an agency’s legitimacy.

Scamwarners.com, a site devoted to Internet fraud, is a good resource. Online rentals are often used as fronts for scam artists—always double check whether a purported property is actually available.

2 Don’t do bank transfers. Most legitimate businesses use credit cards or PayPal. It’s also much easier to claim back money from your credit card company. Also, don’t trust a travel agency that demands a more than 50 percent deposit.

3 Don’t give your credit card details over the phone. The scenario: it’s late at night and you get

a call in your hotel room. The receptionist tells you they just want to confirm your credit card details. Trouble is, she’s not the receptionist and before you know it, someone’s gone on a shopping spree with your card.

Credit card transactions should always be done in person.

4 Use caution when booking online. If you’re using a Web site for the first time, make sure that it’s secure. Look for “https://” which means that your personal information is encrypted.

5 If a deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Unsolicited e-mails for heavily

discounted travel packages should always be viewed with skepticism. When it comes to discounts on hotels rooms and air tickets, shop around and get an idea what others are offering so you know what a fair price is.

6 Be wary of overfriendly locals. That’s the one lesson Nation took away from his ordeal: “If someone goes out of his way to befriend you or wants to take you somewhere, that’s when it’s downright dangerous.” ✚

smart traveler

choosing a safe hotel Your chances of being in an emergency at a hotel are slim. Mark Orwoll checks in with some advice on how to further minimize the risk.

E

scaping from a hotel fire is not something one soon forgets. Even now, 15 years later, I vividly recall standing in a Philadelphia hotel parking lot at two in the morning, shoeless, walletless and breathless from descending six flights of stairs, arms around my wife and infant son. Fortunately, the hotel did a good job of getting guests out of harm’s way quickly. Luckier still, the blaze was minor and no one was hurt. Since then, one of the first things I do after checking in to a hotel anywhere in the world is establish my emergency exit route.

I used to be one of the few to take such precautions. But these days, hotel safety is a topic on many guests’ minds. If it’s not the specter of fire, it’s the even scarier—though still remote—threat of

26 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

terrorism. (In the past 10 years more than 60 hotels in 20 countries have been targeted, according to Stratfor, a global intelligence company. ) After my Philadelphia experience, I try to avoid rooms above the sixth floor, the maximum reach of many fire-truck ladders. But security experts also warn that staying on a lower level can place you at greater risk of terrorism aimed at the ground floor.

Meanwhile, Western-owned international chain hotels might seem to be the likeliest targets, but local, independent properties aren’t immune. Even so, the risk of being a victim of terrorism at any hotel is very low, according to David Langhorn, director of global security for the InterContinental Hotels Group. “If you choose to stay at a smaller independent hotel instead of an international brand,” he says, “you’re often exposed to more common dangers,” things such as food poisoning, insufficient fire protection and petty theft. Indeed, theft is one of the greatest concerns for hotel management around the world, especially in the lobby and public spaces—something that most major brands now combat with professional security personnel, closed-circuit television and better staff training.

Other evidence that your hotel has the most upto-date security measures in place: vehicle barriers (sometimes disguised as planters) near the street How Many of entrance, a main lobby on These Safety an upper floor, a 24-hour Steps Do You Follow? reception desk, CCTV 1 Choose a lower cameras, restricted latefloor well above night entrance, discreetly the lobby, but stationed security where fire ladders can reach you. personnel, elevator access 2 Examine the that requires a guestemergency exits room key, electronic on your floor to ensure they’re not door locks, and a well-lit blocked or locked. parking garage. But 3 Count the doors equally important as between your room these precautions is a and the fire stairs to guide yourself guest’s mind-set, in case of smoke or according to Langhorn. during a blackout.

“Guests come to hotels 4 Be able to find your shoes, to enjoy themselves,” he passport and says. “And they should. wallet quickly But you have to be aware in the dark. of your surroundings. At 5 Always use the secondary lock a certain point, personal and peephole in responsibility enters into your room door. the picture.” ✚ Illustrated by Name Teekay

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Strategies

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travel smarter

2011 Hotel Files In our annual guide to hotels, T+L offers a special report on how loyalty is paying off in new ways.

Plus we take a closer look at where to find the best deals right now, the boom in boutique hotel spin-off brands, and the latest apps and websites. by andrea Bennett, Jennifer Coogan, Stirling Kelso and Tom Samiljan

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 29

strategies hotel Files Special report

Luxury Loyalty With Hotels across the globe beefing up their loyalty programs, It’s time to join. by andrea bennett

A review of the latest loyalty programs

GHA Discovery the perks Enrollment includes one local experience at a member hotel.

After 20 nights, members receive free upgrades, late checkout and enhanced experiences. With 30 or more stays, they receive an ultra-exclusive local experience. Cost Free

Hilton HHonors the perks Guests can earn points at Hilton's 3,700 hotels and partner airlines and can spend them on hotels, cruises, car rentals and experiential rewards. Rolling out this summer: the ability to book a room with a mix of cash and points. Cost Free

Leaders Club from the ­ Leading Hotels of the World the perks Access Level members receive breakfast, Internet service and a free night for any five stays in a year. Unlimited Level members also get passes to 600 airport ­lounges. Cost From US$100 (Access Level) to US$1,200 (Unlimited Level) per year

M Life Players Club from MGM Resorts the perks Members earn status by spending at 15 MGM resorts.

Benefits include room, shopping and show discounts, and resort credit that can be spent at both MGM properties and SBE hotels and restaurants. Cost Free

Ritz-Carlton Rewards the perks Accumulating points through hotel stays, flights on partner airlines and even trips. Points can be used on rooms, airfare-andhotel packages, cruises and other experiences. Cost Free

30 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

A

(upgrades; Internet access) but also more-elaborate perks such as private tours with Abercrombie & Kent. Just a few months ago, the new Global Hotel Alliance of 12 smaller brands (Omni, Kempinski, Doyle and Anantara, among others) launched its GHA Discovery program. Members earn opportunities to redeem a “local experience” at a GHA hotel, which includes everything from a ­dhoni cruise at the Anantara Dhigu ­resort to a backstage tour of the Peking Opera Theater through the

Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa Center. Even Hilton is rebranding its legendary HHonors program to focus on the access it gives guests to experiential rewards, which include everything from lift tickets at Intrawest ski resorts to hot-air balloon rides over the Provençal countryside. Phillip Logsdon, director of loyalty marketing for the Leading »

FROM LEFT : COURTESY OF Th e LEADIN G H OTELS OF T H E WORLD ; © P h o t o e x p r e s s / d r e a m s t i m e . c o m

Club News

handful of travelers recently received a dream invite: Join a group of 12 at a 16thcentury ­Tuscan villa for a week of touring private wine cellars and truffle hunting, as well as a gala dinner hosted by the winemaker Leonardo Frescobaldi.

The brainchild of a high-end concierge service? More like a product of the newest wave in hotel-loyalty programs. The trip was presented exclusively to members of the Leaders Club program from the Leading Hotels of the World, which offers benefits at the collection’s more than 430 properties. It reflects a growing trend among hotel companies—particularly at the luxury level—to create or expand loyalty programs with a renewed focus on members-only perks.

The trend took off during the recession as luxury hoteliers looked for ways to stop travelers from defecting to less pricey brands. But as corporate travel (and, with it, the health of the hospitality industry) begins to bounce back from its 2009 lows, travelers’ demand for value hasn’t slackened. Even as hotels inch their rates back up, they continue to compete for travelers. The weapon of choice: loyalty programs that do away with complex points systems and instead create unique experiences.

Last year saw the launch of the Ritz-Carlton Rewards, which offers members not only standard perks

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strategies hotel Files Hotels of the World, says that the Leaders Club’s model of rewarding every five stays with a free night is a direct response to complicated, capacity-controlled points programs “that require an engineering degree to use.” Indeed, a recent survey of 36,000 travelers by Zurich-based loyalty solutions provider Loylogic found that travelers, frustrated with accumulating points they weren’t able to redeem, are now demanding more unique rewards and attainable perks.

The entry-level benefits at most of these new programs resemble what you’d expect from traditional loyalty clubs—free Internet and breakfast and the ability to earn early checkin, room upgrades, and stays. But reach the upper tiers, and it’s a whole different story. Chris Gabaldon, the chief sales and marketing officer for Ritz-Carlton, views the program as “a gateway to opportunities,” such as photography workshops with National Geographic Expeditions. Similarly, highest-tier GHA members staying at the Marco Polo Gateway Hong Kong, for example, can learn to care for pandas at the city’s Ocean Park. The Leaders Club’s highest level costs US$1,200 a­ nnually, but comes with guaranteed upgrades at the time of booking, global concierge

service and access to 600 airport lounges worldwide.

Independent hotels are also finding ways to lure loyalty-minded travelers.

Members of M Life Players Club, the new program from MGM Resorts International, earn “moments” like the chance to choose the Bellagio fountain playlist. (See “Collective Agreements,” right, for more on similar programs.)

Some top-tier hotel groups, such as Four Seasons, have traditionally resisted the loyalty model, saying that perks like personal recognition should be de rigueur in a good hotel.

But Caryn Kboudi, spokesperson for Omni Hotels (a member of GHA), says one benefit of the new alliances is their ability to share your preferences with one another and widen your net of benefits. Most important, the hotel alliances say, the simpler new programs represent a shift in thinking: they actually want you to claim your rewards. Chief financial officers have traditionally loved it when people accrued points and never used them, according to Steven Landuyt, Loylogic’s global head of sales. But now they’re realizing the potential of these programs to develop relationships with travelers—a strategy that ultimately rewards both hotel and guest. ✚

independent programs It’s not just large hotel groups that are taking note of the power of loyalty. Independent properties are now banding together to leverage strength in numbers. Here are three top programs

1

Perhaps the most interesting program: Topguest (topguest. com), which rewards users with points and perks for virtual “checkins” via social-networking platforms including ­Foursquare, ­Facebook and Twitter. Boutique hotel groups such as Viceroy, Standard and Thompson use it to offer guests cocktails, spa treatments and free room stays.

2

VOILÀ Hotel Rewards (vhr.com), a program that collects redeemable points at a portfolio of close to 250 hotels worldwide (from Spain’s Husa ­Hoteles to the Plaza hotel in Seoul), is expanding in Southeast Asia; it recently entered the Thai market with the Onyx Hospitality Group.

k at the Dhoni sailing, a per ldives.

Anantara Dhigu, Ma

32 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

c o u r t e s y o f A n a n t a r a Dh i g u

3

Stash Hotel Rewards made its debut in May 2010 with a collection of boutique hotels in North America, including ­Bardessono, in ­Yountville, ­California and the Lenox, in Boston.

strategies hotel Files trend

When Starwood opened its first W Hotel in 1998, it launched a trend that has been gaining steam ever since. Now nearly every major chain has at least one boutique brand, with Wyndham and Shangri-La being the latest players. T+L tracks the newest developments. by jennifer coogan

Spin-off Parent

Back Story

Where You'll Find Them

Standout Feature

Guest Profile

Hyatt Hyatt threw out the reception desk when it invented Andaz in 2007, so guests can feel like the hotel is their private pied-à-terre.

Hollywood, New York and London, among other cities. Resorts are set to open in Turks and Caicos, Maui and Costa Rica.

Open kitchens and locally sourced ingredients make Andaz dining spaces feel less like restaurants and more like dinner parties, in keeping with the brand’s philosophy.

Sophisticated, style-minded travelers who don’t want to be pegged as tourists.

34 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Wyndham/ chatwal hotels & resorts Father-son hoteliers Sant and Vikram Chatwal recently partnered with Wyndham, which will manage and franchise this high-concept luxury brand.

New York City, Bangkok and Kochi, India. South Beach and downtown Manhattan open this year; Dream D.C. is set for 2012.

Playing on the brand’s name, all hotel rooms have a dream dictionary for guests to consult. Plush bedding and thoughtful lighting help carry out the theme.

Creative-industry types who don’t mind spending a little more to stand out from the masses.

Marriott

Shangri-La

Sofitel

Taj

Ian Schrager is the mastermind behind this new brand, which brings avantgarde street cred to the traditional Marriott name.

The Hong Kong– based luxury chain, famous for its restrained Asian elegance, is showing a more relaxed and colorful side with its new Kerry brand.

The French chain launched the So brand last year to attract a younger, more style-minded clientele.

Taj rebranded more than a dozen of its most contemporary properties last autumn to the Vivanta by Taj name, updating the century-old chain’s image.

Waikiki and Istanbul so far.

More planned for London, ­B arcelona, South Beach and Mexico City.

Sleek and spare lines are the brand’s hallmark, but each property pays tribute to its locale: surfboards and ukuleles grace the walls in Waikiki, while Istanbul has silk carpets and rosewood paneling.

Nightlife connoisseurs, plus Marriott loyalists who like earning and using rewards points in vibrant urban settings.

Shanghai (opened in February) and Beijing (set to open in 2012).

Mauritius.

Bangkok opens in late 2011.

Interactive dining: Shanghai’s Cook restaurant has 11 “theater kitchens,” and the bar brews its own beer. Guests can have a label custom-made.

Families with kids who’ll love the two-story play zone, and business travelers who want to blow off steam in Shanghai’s largest hotel fitness club.

Indian business hubs, such as Bangalore and Delhi, and resort destinations, including Goa and the Maldives.

Regionally inspired design—four Thai designers are decorating different sections of the Bangkok property. In Mauritius, the design echoes the crescentshaped beach.

Several properties feature Rhythm, a combined work-play lounge where suite guests can make photocopies and mix cocktails.

Travelers looking to soak up the local color while enjoying French-style service and sophistication.

Guests seeking a less formal (and often more affordable) alternative to the flagship Taj properties.

ANDA Z , FROM TO P : © s u m n e r g r a ph i c s i n c / i s t o c kph o t o ; n i k a d a / i s t o c kph o t o . DREAM : © MURAT G IRAY K AYA / i s t o c kph o t o . EDITION , © s k o d o n n e l l / i s t o c kph o t o . k e r r y : c o u r t e s y o f s h a n g r i - l a h o t e l s a n d r e s o r t S . S o , FROM TO P : C o u r t e s y o f s o f i t e l ; © p a v l e n / i s t o c kph o t o . v i v a n t a : © a n s o n s a w / i s t o c kph o t o .

Spin-off Brands

strategies hotel Files t e c h u p dat e

Closer look

Inside Job

GOOD-BYE, RECESSION-ERA DEALS. STILL, SEARCHING FOR A BARGAIN TODAY? THINK STRATEGICALLY

M

ore good news for travelers. In places like the U.S., hotel occupancy rates rose last year without pushing up average room rates. The bad news: managers are making the most of their busy nights, meaning rates at individual hotels have never been more changeable, according to professor Bjorn Hanson, dean of the hospitality program at New York University. When your travel plans are flexible, Hanson advises asking for the best available rate and then inquiring if you’d get a lower rate by checking in a day or two earlier. “A quarter of the time the answer is yes,” he says. According to Hotels.com, room rates are generally on the rise in Asia, but bargains are still available in some cities—take Bangkok, where you’ll find US$200-a-night rooms in five-star hotels. But don’t book on room rate alone, advises Tim Leffel, travel bargains expert and author of Make Your Travel Dollars Worth a Fortune. Consider resort fees and Wi-Fi charges that can tack up to US$50 a day onto the bill. Upgrading to a club-level floor can sometimes be worth it if it includes breakfast and Internet access.—j.c.

The biggest changes year-over-year

$199

Average room rate in bali, indonesia, which increased by 35 percent

occupancy

Average occupancy rate in Sydney, Australia, which rose by 7 percent

$120 Average room rate in hong kong, which rose by 33 percent *Stats provided by Hotels.com. Prices in US$.

36 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

53

Hipmunk Hotels Bringing its innovative airfare comparison technology to hotels and AirBnB rentals, the Hipmunk website and app maps out rooms and color-codes them according to their value relative to local rates. You can also filter properties by proximity to nightlife, food, shopping and even “vice.” hipmunk.com

Concierge Insider Guides

by t h e n u m b e r s

room rates

New websites and apps offer previously unavailable insight About hotels

84

Average occupancy rate in Bangkok, which dropped by 3 percent

*Stats provided by STR.

The new app from InterContinental Hotels delivers worldwide destination guides (complete with interactive maps and video tours) from the ultimate hotel insiders: the company's 120 concierges. intercontinental.com

Oyster.com This U.S.-focused site sends out an army of professional reviewers to critique and photograph thousands of properties. Especially revealing is the “photo fakeouts” section, which juxtaposes misleading hotel promotional images with real-life Oyster shots. oyster.com

f r o m to p : c o u r t e s y o f h i p m u n k ; c o u r t e s y o f i n t e r c o n t i n e n ta l h o t e l s g r o u p ; c o u r t e s y o f oy s t e r . c o m

Finding Value

the soul of Bali in the heart of Ubud

Space Wars To chart where you’ll get the ­biggest— and smallest—bang for your buck, T+L calculated the average nightly price per square meter of standard rooms at luxury hotels in 24 cities. Here, the best and the worst destinations for space

MOST ROOM FOR YOUR MONEY

LEAST ROOM FOR YOUR MONEY

(PRICE PER SQUARE METER)

(PRICE PER SQUARE METER)

Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok

c o u r t e s y o f s h a n g r i - l a h o t e l , B a n gk o k ( 2 )

TV

1. Bangkok $6.78

1. Rome $33.48

2. Buenos Aires $7.10

2. Paris $32.29

$200

per night

“The resort itself was also very special, with delicious food and ambience. One of the best things about Komaneka is the staff, they are so friendly and welcoming and genuinely strive to make your holiday the best it can be”.

– KY. Perth – Australia

3. Cape Town,

3. London South Africa $28.52 $7.53 4. Rio de 4. Dubai, U.A.E. Janeiro $7.64 $22.60 5. Berlin $8.40

5. Amsterdam $21.42 *Prices in US$.

36 sq. m.

KOMANEKA

Monkey Forest | Tanggayuda | Bisma Your home address in Ubud +62 361 976090 sales@komaneka.com www.komaneka.com

strategies hotel Files Price check

T+L’s Martini Index value is not measured by room rate alone. You also have to consider how much a hotel’s goods and services cost. To get a sense of the relative expense of luxury properties, T+L determined the average price of a hotel bar martini, from Buenos Aires to Bangkok.

$13 Shanghai $16 Montreal

$23 London

$10 Prague

$15 Mumbai

$19 New York City

$12 Mexico City

$25 Paris $12 Lisbon $23 Rome

$15 Rio de Janeiro $17 Buenos Aires

$18 Singapore $7 Cape Town

$21 Sydney b ot to m : © R o cco b a r o cco / D r e a m st i m e .co m

* Prices in US$.

$10 Bangkok

$17 Dubai

38 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

hotels readers’ poll

COURTESY OF MAN D ARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL G ROUP

A Deluxe Residence at Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai, Thailand, voted a top resort for service overall by T+L readers.

2011 World’s BESTSERVICE behind every memorable hotel experience are the staffers who make it happen. That’s why every year, T+L spotlights the top properties in nine regions that excel in service, as rated by readers in the World’s Best Awards survey. What’s new in 2011? We’ve divided the lists into city and resort categories, so we can highlight more winners with a range of service styles—from formal to casual.

PLUS Fast facts about No. 1 hotels around the globe. travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 41

hotels readers’ poll To p 1 0 C i t y H ot e l s

Ov e r a l l 1 Olissippo Lapa Palace Lisbon 99.00 2 Shangri-La Hotel Singapore 98.95 3 The Peninsula Bangkok 98.21 4 Trump International Hotel & Tower Staffers 84 Staff-to-guest ratio 1:2 Drivers on call for visits to the hilltop town of Sintra 30 Number of hours spent exploring the unesco World Heritage site on a tour with a hotelarranged guide 8 Types of pillows on offer for tired guests 9

Staffers 500 Staff-to-guest ratio 2:1 Kilograms of jasmine flowers for garlands delivered per week 3.6 Guests festooned with jasmine garlands per day 40 Staffers at the ready for a traditional Thai welcome 10

Ov e r a l l 1 Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 98.95

1 Oberoi Vanyavilas Ranthambhore, India 98.95

3 Nisbet Plantation Beach Club Nevis 98.75 4 Palazzo Sasso Ravello, Italy 98.33 5 Oberoi Amarvilas Agra, India 98.31 6 Blancaneaux Lodge San Ignacio, Belize 98.18

6 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 98.18 8 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 98.05

9 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 97.84 10 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 97.78

Best for Service From left: A formal welcome at the

No. 1 city hotel in Europe and overall, Olissippo Lapa Palace, in Lisbon; the lobby at Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago, the winning city hotel in the U.S.; the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, The Lodge at Koele, the highest-scoring hotel in Hawaii.

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

To p 5 R e s o r ts a n d i n n s

Tower Chicago 97.90 2 The Peninsula Chicago 96.61 3 Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek Dallas 96.55 4 Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park 96.17 5 Sofitel Washington D.C. Lafayette Square 95.86

Montana 97.84 2 Woodlands Inn Summerville, South Carolina 97.65 3 San Ysidro Ranch, A Rosewood Resort Santa Barbara, California 97.39 4 Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole Wyoming 97.14 5 Fearrington House Inn Pittsboro, North Carolina 96.47

U. S . a n d C a n a da 1 Trump International Hotel &

To p 1 0 R e s o r ts , I n n s a n d Lo d g e s

U. S . a n d C a n a da 1 Triple Creek Ranch Darby,

To p 5 H ot e l s

NO. 1 By the numbers

Staffers 171 Staff-to-guest ratio 1:7 Ukulele players on staff 3 Lessons offered per day, in music, archery, horseback riding and hula dancing 60 Sunglasses lost per year during on-site activities 365 (90 percent are found, cleaned and returned)

H awa i i 1 Four Seasons Resort

Lanai, The Lodge at Koele 96.88 2 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Kaupulehu Big Island 96.74 3 Halekulani Oahu 96.22 4 Kahala Hotel & Resort Honolulu 94.12 5 Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay 93.81

METHODOLOGY Rankings are based on reader evaluations collected in the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards survey. For all hotels, scores are indexed averages of evaluations for the ­characteristic “Service.” Readers were asked to rate candidates on a scale of 1 to 5, where 5 means “Excellent” and 1 means “Poor.” Scores are rounded to the nearest hundredth of a point; in the event of a true tie, properties or companies share a ranking. Hotel types were determined based on property location. For the full survey methodology, go to TravelandLeisure.com/worldsbest.

42 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

FROM l e f t : r ay m o n d p a t r i c k ; w i l l i a m h u b e r / c o u r t e s y o f t r u m p h o t e l s ; j o ã o c a n z i a n i

NO. 1 By the numbers

Chicago 97.90 5 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest 97.60 6 Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet 97.50 7 The Peninsula Hong Kong 97.46 8 Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at the First Residence 97.27 9 Burj Al Arab Dubai 97.14 9 The Merrion Dublin 97.14

NO. 1 By the numbers

tropical idylls Poolside at One&Only NO. 1 By the numbers

Staffers 782 Staff-to-guest ratio 7:3 Daily poolside footmassage appointments available 40 Required training hours for masseuses 240 Kilograms of beach towels washed per day in high season 1,089 To p 3 C i t y H ot e l s

Mexico 1 Four Seasons Hotel México, D.F. 96.00

2 JW Marriott Hotel

Mexico City 94.29 3 Hotel Presidente InterContinental Mexico City 82.22 To p 5 R e s o r ts

Mexico 1 One&Only Palmilla

Los Cabos 97.24 2 Las Ventanas al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort Los Cabos 96.80 3 Esperanza, An Auberge Resort Los Cabos 96.36 4 Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita 96.15 5 Ritz-Carlton Cancún 94.05

FROM TOP : g r a c i e l a c a t t a r o s s i ; p e t e r f r a n k e d w a r d s ; g r a c i e l a c a t t a r o s s i

NO. 1 By the numbers

Staffers 72 Staff-to-guest ratio 1:1 Coconuts used per week at Sea Breeze Beach Bar 15 Piña coladas mixed per day in high season 140 Complimentary rental bikes for burning off cocktails 24

To p 5 R e s o r ts and inns

the Caribbean, b e r m u da a n d the bahamas 1 Nisbet Plantation

Beach Club Nevis 98.75 2 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 98.18 3 Jamaica Inn Ocho Rios, Jamaica 96.25 4 Curtain Bluff Resort Antigua 94.44 5 Couples Swept Away Negril, Jamaica 94.31 Denotes a Great Value (rate of US$250 or less)

Palmilla, the No. 1 resort for service in Mexico. Center: A staffer at Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, Nevis. Bottom: Inside Blancaneaux Lodge, in Belize, which took top honors for service in Central and South America.

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

Central and South America 1 Alvear Palace Hotel

Buenos Aires 96.31

Buenos Aires 96.07

Buenos Aires 95.24

Lima, Peru 93.33

Peru 92.81

2 Four Seasons Hotel 3 Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt 4 JW Marriott Hotel 5 Hotel Monasterio Cuzco,

To p 5 R e s o r ts AND LODGES

Central and South america 1 Blancaneaux Lodge San Ignacio, Belize 98.18

2 Four Seasons Resort

Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo 93.78 3 Four Seasons Resort Carmelo, Uruguay 92.94 4 Casa Santo Domingo Hotel & Museum Antigua, Guatemala 91.67 5 Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, Golf-Spa San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina 91.35

NO. 1 By the numbers

Staffers 90 (seasonal) Staff-to-guest ratio 1:1 Hectares of pine ridge forest protected from loggers thanks to staffer advocacy 43,000 Species of Belizean birds recorded by the on-site conservation officer 370 Endangered animals spotted on half- and full-day wildlife tours 4 (jaguar, tapir, Morelet’s crocodile, scarlet macaw)

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 43

hotels readers’ poll NO. 1 By the numbers

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

Asia 1 Shangri-La Hotel

2:3

Lisbon 99.00

Singapore 98.95 2 The Peninsula Bangkok 98.21 3 The Peninsula Hong Kong 97.46 4 Raffles Hotel Singapore 96.67 5 Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai 96.49

Orchid varieties in the hotel’s 6hectare garden 30 Liters of water used per month in the garden 1,423 Hotel staffers dedicated to tending the garden and nursery 14

2 Four Seasons Hotel

Gresham Palace Budapest 97.60 3 Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet 97.50 4 The Merrion Dublin 97.14 5 Hôtel de Crillon Paris 97.00

To p 5 R e s o r ts

Asia 1 Mandarin Oriental

To p 5 R e s o r ts and inns

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 98.95 1 Oberoi Vanyavilas Ranthambhore, India 98.95 3 Oberoi Amarvilas Agra, India 98.31 4 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 98.05 5 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 97.78

Europe 1 Palazzo Sasso Ravello,

Italy 98.33 2 Le Sirenuse Positano, Italy 97.67 3 Domaine des Hauts de Loire Onzain, France 96.67 3 Hôtel Château Eza Èze Village, France 96.67 5 Château de la Chèvre d’Or Èze Village, France 96.47

NO. 1 By the numbers

Inside the Line restaurant at Shangri-La Singapore, the No. 1 city hotel in Asia for service.

NO. 1 By the numbers

Staffers: 96 Staff-to-guest ratio 1:1 Michelin stars at chef Pino Lavarra’s Rosselinis restaurant 2 Dinner tasting menu courses served 8 Largest order of champagne in hotel history 750 liters (enough to fill a bathtub)

Staffers 100 Staff-to-guest ratio 1:1 Number of staff guides 14 Animal species visible on property 162 Largest fish caught on a fly-fishing excursion

To p 5 R e s o r t s a n d lo d g e s

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

Masai Mara, Kenya 97.69

Kenya 97.65

Cape Town, South Africa 97.50

South Africa 97.33

Park, South Africa 97.33

Cairo at the First Residence 97.27 2 Burj Al Arab Dubai 97.14 3 Cape Grace Cape Town, South Africa 95.94 4 Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano Egypt 93.75 5 Four Seasons Hotel at Nile Plaza Cairo 93.49

Africa and The Middle East 1 Fairmont Mara Safari Club 2 Tortilis Camp Amboseli

3 Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa 4 MalaMala Game Reserve

14.5 kilograms

Number of guests who dined on the Nile perch 96

4 Royal Malewane Kruger National

To p 5 R e s o r t s a n d lo d g e s

Australia, New Zealand and the S o u t h Pac i f i c 1 Huka Lodge Taupo, New

Zealand 93.75

2 InterContinental Bora Bora

One of 50 tents at Fairmont Mara Safari Club, the top lodge for service in Africa.

44 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Resort & Thalasso Spa French Polynesia 93.33 3 Hayman Great Barrier Reef Australia 93.00 4 Longitude 131°Ayers Rock, Australia 85.71 5 Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas Resort Australia 82.11

Africa and The Middle East 1 Four Seasons Hotel

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

Australia, New Zealand and the South Pac i f i c 1 The Langham Melbourne

95.00

2 The George Christchurch,

New Zealand 92.50 3 Park Hyatt Sydney 90.81 4 Pullman (formerly the Hyatt Regency) Auckland, New Zealand 90.00 5 Park Hyatt Melbourne 89.41 Denotes a Great Value (rate of US$250 or less)

FROM TOP : c o u r t e s y o f s h a n g r i - l a h o t e l s & r e s o r t s ; J a s o n M i c h a e l L a n g

To p 5 C i t y H ot e l s

Staffers 975 Staff-to-guest ratio

Europe 1 Olissippo Lapa Palace

travelandleisure.com month 2010 00

EXCLUSIVE travel OFFERS FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® PLATINUM RESERVE CREDIT CARDMEMBERS STAY AN EXTRA NIGHT ON US AT LUXURIOUS ANANTARA HOTELS & RESORTS

Anantara Kihavah Villas, Maldives, view from ocean.

Anantara. The word in Sanskrit means “without end” and evokes the freedom, movement and harmony that are the spirit of Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas. Our luxury accommodations offer guest journeys quite unlike any other - coupling serenity and exoticism with indigenous charm to create experiences that celebrate each distinctive destination in all its natural beauty and cultural allure.

Exclusive privileges for Platinum Reserve Cardmembers: • Stay 4 Nights for the Price of 3 at Best Available Rate#, inclusive of breakfast • Receive 20% saving on treatments at Anantara Spa* throughout your stay • Complimentary upgrade (subject to availability upon check-in**) • Valid for booking and stay from 1 June 2011 to 31 August 2011 #Stay 3 Nights for the Price of 2 is available at the following properties only: Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort & Spa, Desert Islands Resort & Spa and Anantara Bangkok Sathorn.

PARTICIPATING HOTELS AND RESORTS THAILAND

INDONESIA

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*Offer does not apply to Elemis product treatments. **Room upgrade is to next room category and subject to availability on check-in. Not valid at Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort & Spa, for Suites or Pool Suites at Anantara Si Kao Resort & Spa, Oceanfront Suites at Rasanda Resort & Spa Koh Phangan and Pool Villas at Anantara Lawana Samui Resort & Spa. ▲Affiliate hotel managed by Anantara. ^Spa offer available at hotel’s individual spa (non-Anantara Spa).

Terms & conditions: To enjoy this offer, payment must be made with American Express Platinum Reserve Credit Card only. Advance reservations are required and subject to availability. Spa treatments require advance reservation and subject to availability. Rates are based on Best Available Rate (non-restricted published rate) including breakfast (for up to two adults) per room, per night, based on single/double occupancy and availability at time of reservation. Rates are subject to local taxes and service charge in the applicable country. Blackout dates and other restrictions may apply. Offer not applicable to group bookings exceeding 10 rooms. Not to be combined with other offers or promotions and subject to change. Void where prohibited by law. Information is correct at the time of publishing.

For reservations, please visit www.anantara.com/tlamex and click on “Preferential code” to enter TLAMEX within the reservation process.

newsflash your global guide to what’s happening right now...

Height: 484 meters.

Total: 118 floors.

The top 17 floors make up the Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. Three of the hotel’s six restaurants are on floor 102; the spa is on 116.

All the suites have telescopes.

Skyscraper

More than 100,000 square meters of glass.

The 93,000square-meter Elements mall houses luxury boutiques.

48 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Call it King Kong. The tallest building in Hong Kong and the fourth tallest in the world—designed by Kohn Pederson Fox Associates—is now the site of the highest hotel in existence: the Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. Occupying the top 17 floors of the International Commerce Centre, whose roof is 484 meters above the ground, the Ritz-Carlton gives your heart multiple opportunities to skip a beat—even if you’re not acrophobic.

Start with the elevator ride from the reception area on the ninth floor to the main lobby on 103: at 32 kilometers per hour, it’s about five times faster than the ascent you’re used to. The indoor infinity pool on 118 lets you swim right up to the edge of the void, and the top-floor terrace is used for alfresco yoga and tai chi.

Yes, there’s still oxygen almost half a kilometer up. 1 Austin Rd. W., Kowloon; 852/2263-2263; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from HK$6,000.—pe t e r j. f r a n k

C o u r t e s y o f R i t z - C a r lt o n ( 2 )

WORLD’S HIGHEST HOTEL

trend

ready to ride CLOC K WISE FROM LEFT : c o u r t e s y o f b e a c h h o u s e m a l d i v e s , a w a l d o r f astoria resort; courtesy of bmw; courtesy of dorchester collection

Our favorite new amenity?

Getting your own private escape-mobile. As far as airport transfers go, it doesn’t get much better than Beach House Maldives, a Waldorf Astoria Resort (waldorfastoria.com; doubles from US$815), where guests are greeted by a DeHavilland Twin Otter seaplane tricked out with everything from iPads to Bose noise-canceling headphones. •Coming this summer to all U.S.-based Fairmont Hotels (fairmont. com; doubles from US$169): BMW Cruise bikes (plus helmets and locks, of course). •When you check in to one of the five high-style suites at Paris’s Plaza Athénée (plaza-athenee-paris.com; doubles from €750), they’ll hand you the keys to an Aston Martin. Take your pick between the sleek Rapide

or the sporty, two-door Cygnet. •Book a suite at the Peninsula Hotel in New York, Tokyo, Chicago or Hong Kong (peninsula.com; doubles from US$595), and you’ll get a personal chauffeur to drive you around town in a Mini Cooper S Clubman car finished in the brand’s signature hunter green.

— kat h r y n o ’s h e a - eva n s

An Aston Martin outside Paris’s Plaza Athénée.

Above: A BMW bike available at Fairmont Hotels in the U.S.

The custom seaplane at OWH-HOTEL-2011-096_Travel&Leasure-Shopping_203.2x133.35mm Beach House Maldives.

Sleep tired. Wake up inspired.

Sometimes, a relaxing slumber is all it takes to open a world of possibilities. And here at One World Hotel, located at the fringe of Kuala Lumpur, the possibilities are virtually endless. Explore the depths of comfort as we pamper you with a choice of 6 indulgent room categories, treat you to culinary getaways at award-winning restaurants and spoil you with the temptations of shopping at the acclaimed 1 Utama Shopping Centre. Whatever you choose to do, you can be sure that anything’s possible in One World.

To stay updated on the latest promotions, please visit www.oneworldhotel.com.my or email to reservations@oneworldhotel.com.my

The BrandLaureate SMEs Chapter Awards 2009 Corporate Branding Best Brands in Hotel – Business

Cinnamon Coffee House Malaysia Tourism Award 2008 - 2009 Innovative Restaurant Premier Award - International Restaurant

f i r s t ave nu e , b a n d a r u t a m a c i t y c e n t re , 4 7 8 0 0 p e t a l i n g j ay a , s e l a n go r, m a l ay s i a . t o l l f re e d o m e s t i c : 1 3 0 0 8 8 7 8 8 8 t o l l f re e i n t e r n a t i o n a l : 1 8 0 0 8 8 7 8 8 8 t e l : 6 0 3 7 6 8 1 1 1 1 1 f a x : 6 0 3 7 6 8 1 1 1 8 8 we b s i t e : w w w. o n ewo r l d h o t e l . c o m . my

newsflash

female friendly Clockwise from left: The Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Siem Reap; poolside at the hotel; at the W Taipei; assam laksa, found at the doorstep of G Hotel; a suite at Discovery Country Suites, in Tagaytay, Philippines; wine-and-cheese cocktails, served nightly at the property; the buzzy lobby at G Hotel Penang; Kemang Icon by Alila, in Jakarta.

escapes

Paging all ladies: Ready for some qualityi downtimeiwith your best girlfriends?i Here, we pick five women-only getawaysi in the region.— l i a n g x i n y ii

Be Inspired

SIEM REAP For an indulgent splurge, check into a two-bedroom Villa suite at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Siem Reap, where you’ll be pampered (daily champagne breakfasts; in-villa massages and mani-pedis) and inspired (a chef-led culinary class; a guided tour of Angkor Wat) in equal measure. Hit Siem Reap’s boutiques on a customized shopping trip and even have your future told by a local soothsayer. raffles.com/ siemreap; three-night Girlfriends Getaway packages from US$1,955 per night, four-women maximum, through Dec. 28.

STAY INdoors

JAKARTA In a buzzy corner of south Jakarta, the Sardjono Sani– designed Kemang Icon

by Alila is the perfect place for a sleepover, with movies, popcorn and even cocktails delivered to your roomy Inner Courtyard suite.

Make the most of the fun freebies in your Spa Alila goodie bag, including ginger-lemon lip balm, avocadococonut hair-treatment gel, sugar-and-ricebran scrubs and a fruit facial set. alilahotels. com/kemangicon; Ladies Night packages

50 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

from US$319 per night, double, through June 30.

FOODIE FIESTA

PENANG Sure, you’ll get a massage, mani-pedi and hair treatment, as well as discounts at the mall next door, but the real reason to go to G Hotel Penang is the food: not only will you get a free five-course dinner at Sesame & Soy and drinks at G Spot bar, but street food– lined Gurney Drive is just downstairs. Don’t miss the assam laksa.

60-4/238-0000; ghotel. com.my; two-night Girlie Getaway packages from RM888 per night, double, through Dec. 31.

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

TAIPEI In the midst of Xinyi’s hubbub, the stylish W Taipei is a fabulous setting for a retail extravaganza.

Chic extras set the tone (pastries shaped like rings and stilettos; a W shopping tote), while the W’s insider intel will give you full access to the city’s offerings, from a guide to Taipei’s coolest boutiques to a one-on-one styling class and even a personal shopper. wtaipei.com; Shopperholic packages from NT$11,900 per night, double, through Aug. 7.

HEAD TO THE HILLS

TAGAYTAY All too much? Breathe in the fresh air at Discovery Country Suites, an intimate, seven-suite guest house nestled in a picturesque corner of the Philippines’ Tagaytay highlands. Trips to local organic farms and the Taal Volcano are easy to arrange, but the property offers a good reason not to leave: free nightly wine tastings, including cheese and hors d’oeuvres, with stunning views over the volcano and lake. 63-46/413-4567; discoverycountrysuites. com; All Girl Getaway packages from P7,000 per night, four-person maximum, ongoing.

c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : COURTESY OF R a f f l e s G r a n d H o t e l d ’ A n gk o r S i e m R e a p ( 2 ) ; COURTESY OF w t a i p e i ; © Wk s p / D r e a m s t i m e . c o m ; COURTESY OF D i s c o v e r y C o u n t r y S u i t e s ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y o f G H o t e l P e n a n g ; c o u r t e s y o f K e m a n g I c o n b y A l i l a

girlfriend getaways

ON TRACK From top: Moby; the cover of the musician’s new book, shot by him in New York’s LaGuardia Airport.

Q&A

moby on the move During his 25-year career, the musician, DJ and tea entrepreneur has traveled the globe, staying in thousands of hotels— which helped inspire his new album, Destroyed (Mute, US$15), and an accompanying book of his snapshots (Damiani, US$40). T+L checks in with him about his life on the road.

Q: Tell us about your latest project.

A: My photos document

FROM t o p : c o u r t e s y o f m o b y ; SUNNY K H ALSA

the unglamorous side of touring. And almost every song on the record had its genesis in a hotel room, usually at around 3 a.m.

Q: What do you look for in a hotel?

A: My main desire is that

a room simply function.

I once stayed at a place where an engineer spent half an hour teaching me how to turn on the lights.

Q: Any particular hotel designs catch your eye?

A: In Pôrto Alegre, Brazil,

my hotel had these rectilinear blue-tinted

windows. They made everything look like a strange, cinematic music video from 1992.

Q: Do you have a favorite hotel?

A: The Augustine, in Prague. It’s located in a former monastery and has a really serene vibe.

Q: What was your worst hotel experience?

A: There’s this hotel in

Madrid with all molded plastic furniture and white LED lighting. It was like being inside an iPod: uncomfortable and insane.

Q: Greatest amenity?

A: The Ritz-Carlton in

San Francisco welcomed me with a vegan chocolate rendering of one of my album covers. I felt a little guilty eating it.

—st e p h e n wa l l i s

newsflash beauty

gastronomy by gaggan The restaurant serves Indian dishes like you’ve never seen them before.

travel-friendly sunblocks T+L picks three UV-shielding products that you can use on the go

eat

Flavors from the subcontinent get a modern twist in Thailand’s capital In a charming two-story, white-painted wooden house in Bangkok, El Bulli– trained chef Gaggan Anand turns Indian cuisine on its head at Gaggan (68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd., Lumpini; 66-2/652-1700; eatatgaggan. com; set dinner for two Bt2,500), with startling deconstructed dishes inspired by his homeland; tongue-teasing umami oysters with lemon foam and edible Blue Angel flowers, a play on streetside lemon juice in India; sphericized yogurt that explodes with cumin and a touch of Indian black salt; organic foie gras, both caramelized and powdered, infused with freezedried raspberries and garam masala–

and-ginger–spiced raspberry chutney gel. Not everything served is molecular. “I would never change a curry,” insists the ebullient Gaggan, a Kolkata transplant, who claims he’s merely “remixing” Indian food with quality ingredients and technology.

“We don’t do curried ice creams or chicken tikka masala as a gel, though the chicken tikka masala here is probably one of the best you’ll find anywhere.” Of course, you might find the chicken has been cooked sous vide for maximum tenderness—and don’t be surprised if the spice that’s burning in your mouth is chili reduced to an essential oil.— l a r a d a y

Sweep It

A translucent mineral powder that flows through a portable, refillable brush, Chantecaille Protection Naturelle SPF 46

(US$65; chantecaille.com) prevents both shining and burning, and gives you a healthy glow to boot.

Swipe It

style

hats off to ascot

To celebrate the 300th anniversary of the Ascot Racecourse, Dorchester Collection’s Coworth Park (coworthpark.com; doubles from £470), nearby, tapped British milliner Stephen Jones to create a line of chic chapeaus for its guests.

Reserve one of the 16 suites and the hotel can help you get a ticket to the races (June 14−18, from £19), to which you may wear, say a headpiece resembling a peachblossom branch.

— mimi l om b a r d o 52 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Combining water-resistant UV protection with soothing green tea and vitamin E, these fragrance-free, SPF 30 Supergoop Sunscreen Swipes (US$34 per box of 21; nordstrom.com) are great for sensitive skin. Individually wrapped, they’re also perfect for travel.

Smooth It

Keep lips moisturized—and protected—with the SPF 15 Carmex Cherry Jar (US$1.59; mycarmex.com), which packs beeswax, cacao butter, menthol and phenol in a compact, 7.5-gram pot. Plus it can help soothe insect bites and minor cuts.

— christine a judua , l.x.

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : c o u r t e s y o f g a gg a n ( 3 ) ; LARS K LOVE ( 2 ) ; c o u r t e s y o f c a r m e x ; c o u r t e s y o f d o r c h e s t e r c o l l e c t i o n

india remixED

Exhibition

HALVES MADE WHOLE c o u r t e s y o f n at i o n a l pa l a c e m u s e u m

In Taipei, two parts of a treasured Chinese artwork help to bridge a longstanding divide It’s hard to imagine the Mona Lisa or the Bayeux Tapestry divided in two, but this was the fate of one of China’s most celebrated art masterpieces. The 17th-century governor Wu Hongyu was so attached to his Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains by the great scroll painter Huang Gongwang (1269-1354) that on his deathbed, he threw it into a fire to “save” it for the afterlife. Amazingly, the scroll survived— but by the time the man’s nephew rescued the blackened, 691.3-centimeter parchment from the flames, a section had become detached.

Now, for the first time, the scroll’s two parts have been reunited in a landmark show at Taipei’s National Palace Museum (through Sept. 25; 221 Chin-Shan Rd.; 886-2/2881

2021; admission NT$160). Thanks to efforts on both sides of the Straits—sanctioned by Wen Jiabao, the exhibition marks a major cultural bridge between Taiwan and China—the larger piece, part of the museum’s imperial collection, is being displayed alongside the smaller one, usually housed at Zhejiang’s Provincial Museum in Hangzhou. Ho Chuan-hsing, chief curator of the Taipei museum’s department of painting and calligraphy, says the Yuan Dynasty scroll exemplifies that period’s spontaneous style of calligraphy. “It’s an expressive advance on the scrolls of the Song Dynasty,” Ho explains.

“Huang created his magnum opus aged 70 after a lifetime contemplating the landscape of the Fuchun River. It took him three years to execute.”— r o b e r t t u r n b u l l

W foi n u an r u S ex ea nf pe So or r n ge ie S n re tt c S a e o bl rt e

12 unforgettable four seasons resort experiences.

12 lucky winners.

four seasons 12 lives contest join a n d w i n

From seaside retreats to hillside hideaways to a desert oasis,

every Four Seasons resort is an experience unto itself. And now, you can be 1 of 12 lucky winners of a 4-day, 3-night stay at one of our 12 participating properties. To join the contest, visit TravelandLeisureAsia.com.

insider

destinations trends restaurants + more

malay style

Clockwise from top: Hotel Penaga’s rooms are individually decorated; Muntri Mews, a historic carriage stables; tea at the Mews Café.

PENANG’S HERITAGE revival.

In unesco-listed George Town, a crop of storied structures is being reborn as boutique lodgings.

Here, t+L’s pick of new entries. BY ROBYN ECKHARDT

Photographed by David Hagerman

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 55

insider hotels

After making his name as co-owner of Sri Lanka’s grand Galle Fort Hotel, hotelier and Penang native Chris Ong has turned his eye homeward.

Affordable luxury is the keyword at Ong’s Muntri Mews (77 Muntri St.; 60-4/263-5125; muntrimews. com; doubles from RM330), nine rooms arrayed over a balconied double-story structure that was once George Town’s carriage stables, dating to the late 1900’s. Floored in recycled marble or timber and crisply outfitted in tonal white, grays and black, the Mews’ unusually spacious lodgings—28 square meters downstairs; 37 square meters upstairs— feature separate sitting areas, flat-screen TV’s, rain showers and complimentary Wi-Fi. Remarkably for “flashpacker” lodgings, attentive staff provide nightly turndown service and are available round the clock to supply a bottle of wine, fill an ice bucket or replenish drinking water. The smart Mews Café serves breakfast and light meals—from eggs and toast to nasi lemak—both indoors and in the verdant courtyard. Collectors’ alert: the stables’ former communal kitchen is a browser’s delight, filled floor-to-ceiling with kitchen-related bric-à-brac.

HOTEL PENAGA

George Town’s sights may be just a stone’s throw away, but once you set foot in Hotel Penaga (corner of Jalan Hutton and Lebuh Clarke; 60-4/261-1893; hotelpenaga.com; doubles from RM520)—a downtown oasis sprawling 56 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

historic chic

Clockwise from right: The Yeng Keng Hotel occupies a 19th-century residence; a room at Muntri Mews; a a bathroom at Hotel Penaga;, Moon Tree 47’s café; photos at the hotel.

over an entire city block—you may never want to leave. Renowned Malaysian architect Hijjas Kasturi has transformed three rows of heritage shop houses into 45 breathtaking rooms and suites, plus a bar, restaurant, boutique and spa set at the edge of a peaceful courtyard with an 18-meter swimming pool. In the individually decorated rooms, dark timber floors are a nod to the hotel’s namesake—before being claimed by the British in 1786, Penang was covered with forests of ironwood, or penaga, trees—while photographs, paintings and multimedia artworks from Kasturi’s personal collection share space with an eclectic mix of Southeast Asian furniture and textiles, central Asian kilims and brightly colored soft furnishings.

Jacuzzi baths, walk-in showers, LED TV’s and mini-bars invite nesting. Which room to book?

Try one of the sumptuous upstairs Transfer suites, which have a roomy separate living area and two balconies, one overlooking the garden and the other with a bird’s-eye view of the fascinating street life below.

Bottom: courtesy of Muntri mews

MUNTRI MEWS

YENG KENG HOTEL

The 19th-century Anglo-Indian bungalow housing the Yeng Keng Hotel (362 Chulia St.; 60-4/262-2177; yengkenghotel.com; doubles from RM400) was one of George Town’s first lodgings when it was converted from a private residence over a century ago. Following a topto-bottom makeover, the 20 character-rich rooms and suites, all set around a small swimming pool, are an oasis of cool terracotta tiles, walls painted in saturated yellows, greens and blues, and crisp white linens set off by dark timber antiques, vintage dressers and desks.

There’s an alfresco café–bar for postsightseeing refreshments and, though the Yeng Keng is located on one of George Town’s best streets for hawker-food grazing, it serves up a compelling reason to stay in for breakfast: a jaw-dropping buffet of morning specialties like roti canai and curry laksa.

MOON TREE 47

“We wanted to let visitors know how locals live,” explains Jusung Ng, one of three young Penangites partnering in Moon Tree 47 (47 Muntri St.; 60-4/264-4021; doubles from RM150), an appealingly quirky guest house occupying a former incense maker’s shop house. So when refurbishing the early 20th– century structure, the trio applied a light hand, preserving its old patterned floor tiles, unvarnished timber floors and weathered wooden doors. Above the lobby, three bathroom-sharing, fan-cooled bedrooms are furnished with Midcentury finds like mirrored dressing tables and wardrobes and nostalgic knick-knacks. Out back, six air-conditioned ensuites offer privacy in a long, narrow courtyard enclosed by pretty pastel limewashed walls. In Moon Tree’s petite open-air café, black-and-white family photos depicting life in Penang from the turn of the 20th century through the swinging sixties watch over guests tucking into Ng’s Greece-inspired light bites, such as souvlaki and kofte accompanied by tzatziki. The best way to tour George Town’s atmospheric inner city? On one of Moon Tree’s refurbished upright rental bikes. ✚

ON OUR RADAR Built in 1903, the Tai Locke Hotel had been vacant for years when Malaysia-born Nardya Wray and her Italian husband Roberto Dreon bought it in 2008. Later this month, the gracefully curved, three-story corner structure opens as Campbell House (106 Campbell St.; campbellhouse. com; doubles from RM380). The 10 rooms draw on George Town’s trading-port past, marrying old and new—think Peranakan tiles and rain showers, exposed beams and concrete floors, antique accent pieces and Persian rugs.

Drinks with a view from the secondlevel terrace are a guests-only perk, while the restaurant will serve cicchetti, wood-ovencooked pizza and home-style Venetian fare.

past to present

Clockwise from top: Alfresco at the Yeng Keng Hotel; arriving at the hotel; Moon Tree 47 was once an incense maker’s shop house; at Hotel Penaga.

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 57

insider room report beyond minimalism

Clockwise from left: The Capitol Hotel Tokyu’s lobby; artwork

by Toko Shinada; Origami offers all-day dining; restaurant Suiren.

TOKYO’S NEW ICON. After a four-year

hiatus, the Japan capital’s most storied stay has been reimagined as the stunning Capitol Hotel Tokyu. T+L checks in. BY LARA DAY

When it opened in 1963, the Tokyo Hilton was Japan’s first global-chain hotel and soon became the capital’s It address for such guests as the Beatles and Michael Jackson. Now, following a four-year break in operations, the property has taken a turn for the local, re-emerging last November as the Japanese-owned Capitol Hotel Tokyu.

Designed by Japanese star architect Kengo Kuma, the hotel replaces Isoya Yoshida’s aging edifice with a 29-story steel-and-glass tower housing 251 understated guest rooms that favor soothing over splashy luxury. 2-10-3 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku; 81-3/35030109; capitolhoteltokyu.com/en/; doubles from ¥28,000.

THE AREA

Sited between the Imperial Palace and Roppongi Hills, the Capitol Hotel Tokyu stands away from Tokyo’s trademark frenzy, rising instead from a bamboo-forested hill and overlooking the tranquil, 350-year-old Hie Shrine.

It’s hard to believe that a five-minute stroll across the road takes you to the bustling district of Akasaka, 58 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

complete with Michelin-starred restaurants, government buildings and shops.

Ultimate convenience is ensured thanks to direct underground access to five Tokyo metro lines, including the Ginza and Chiyoda lines.

THE DESIGN

The mind behind Beijing’s trend-forward The Opposite House, Kengo Kuma returns to his roots at the Capitol Hotel Tokyu. With a brand of minimalism that is more subtle than stark, and playing on his credo of recovering “the tradition of Japanese buildings,” Kuma ushers the past gently into the 21st century.

A sweeping driveway leads to a sleek, light-filled lobby whose layout is a nod to traditional shrine architecture; stepped bamboo latticework defines the high ceiling, while floor-to-ceiling windows give onto landscaped gardens and a calming stone-strewn water feature. In the rooms, fusuma screens coexist with high-tech amenities.

Touches from the original hotel abide,

co u rt esy o f ca p i to l h ot e l to ky u ( 4 )

THE OVERVIEW

the panoramic bay window: watching the city light up at dusk—with views of Shinjuku in the distance and the pavilions of the Hie Shrine below—is nothing short of magical.

THE BATHROOM

most visibly in the form of abstractexpressionist artworks by Toko Shinoda—a classic is in the lobby.

THE SERVICE

As you’d expect from a Japanese hotel, service is exceedingly helpful, though the staff was somewhat green at the time of visiting. Our key card took two tries before working properly, but the warm welcome—green tea was offered while we waited—made up for it.

THE DELUXE KING ROOM

co u rt esy o f ca p i to l h ot e l to ky u ( 2 )

At 45 square meters, the room felt palatial by Tokyo standards. Its blend of ultra-comfortable beds, muted earth-tone colors (beige, taupe, slate), soft furnishings, bamboo-screen partitions and printed wallpaper made for a Zen, home-like sanctuary after a day of sightseeing. The highlight was

A Deluxe King room. Above: The Capitol Hotel Tokyu.

A sliding fusuma screen ingeniously divides the bedroom from the bathroom, dressing room and entryway areas. A glass wall separates the generous soaking tub with rain shower; a marble-topped wash basin and dresser area comes equipped with locally inspired products (green-tea body wash; sakura-scented lotion); and a blond-wood door closes off a toilet that features Japan’s customary array of dizzying flushing options, slickly rendered as buttons in brushed steel.

THE AMENITIES

Geared toward business travelers, amenities include five restaurants and bars—make like Ringo and order a drink in the Beatles’ Corner of the Capitol Bar—five banquet spaces, and a health club and gym, including a heated 20-meter indoor lap pool and Jacuzzi. The masculine spa offers treatments like Tuina massage, based on Japanese essential oils.

All rooms come with free Wi-Fi. ✚

insider food

four chefs, four cities.

You can read a Kindle’s worth of guidebooks, YELP your way around the world AND PUT YOUR concierge ON SPEED DIAL, but you’ll never get better eating advice than from a chef. we asked these professional foodies FOR THEIR favorite LOCAL SPOTS. By Howie Kahn

Mexico CitY

enrique Olvera for the scoop on where to eat in the distrito federal, T+L caught up with one of the city’s top chefs

R

60 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Plus, HIs other favorites...

MARKET Olvera loves to eat in the city’s many outdoor markets like La Merced (180 Rosario; no phone; snacks for two M$35). “I go on ­Saturdays for ­quesadillas with ­zucchini blossoms, and epazote in a bluecorn tortilla.”

SWEET TREAT When Olvera craves ice cream, he heads to Roxy (161 Tamaulipas; 5255/5256-1854; dessert for two M$45) for his favorite flavor: zapote negro (made from native black persimmon).

Percebes (gooseneck barnacles) with olive oil and salicornia greens at Merotoro.

Above: Pastries at Nicos.

BAKED GOODS ­ Italian restaurant and bakery Rosetta (166 ­C olima; 52-55/55337804; bread for two M$45) has an excellent foccacia with raisins, while El Cardenal (23 Palma; 52-55/55218815; pastries for two M$80) makes some of the best traditional sweet pastries (conchas, cuernos) and cinnamonlaced hot chocolate.

Zapote negro ice cream at Roxy.

La Merced, above.

HOUSEWARES Maggie Galton (346 Hegel; 52-55/52552230, by appointment) sells beautiful ceramic molcajetes (mortar and pestle) and guajes (gourd pots) that incorporate elements of both indigenous and modern design.

c lo c kw i s e f r o m to p : G r e g o ry A l l e n ; f i a m m a p i ac e n t i n i ; G r e g o ry A l l e n ( 3 )

enowned for modernizing Mexican cuisine with his signature restaurant, Pujol (254 Francisco Petrarca; 52-55/5545-4111; dinner for two M$1,680), Olvera is executive chef at the Distrito Capital (37 Avda.

Juan ­Salvador Agraz; 52-55/5257-1300; dinner for two M$810) hotel. “I have enough fine dining at my restaurants,” Olvera says, “so I head to more casual places when I go out.” He suggests starting the day at Nicos (3102 Avda. Cuitlahuac; 5255/5396-6510; breakfast for two M$580). “They use free-range eggs for their huevos a la ­Mexicana and huevos montuleño, plus all the most flavorful chiles: jalapeños, ­serranos, anchos.”

Lunch at Azuly Oro (3000 Insurgentes; 52-55/56227135; lunch for two M$700) is the next mandatory stop.

“Ricardo Muñoz Zurita is perhaps the most important food scholar in Mexico. His duck empanadas with mole negro are amazing.” For something more upscale, Merotoro (204 Amsterdam; 52-55/5564-7799; dinner for two M$580) serves Bajastyle seafood. Don’t miss the braised abalone.

New York

April bloomfield from spice shops to dim sum joints, this british transplant knows her way around the big apple

T o p, C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p r i g h t : M e l a n i e D u n e a ( B l o o m f i e l d ) ; M e l i s s a H o m ; J u l i e D e n t i t i e s / C o u r t e s y o f A n n i s a ; L a u r e n K l a i n ; M e l i s s a H o m .

B ot to m , F r o m l e f t: © S u b b ot i n a / D r e a m st i m e .co m ; © R o by n m ac / D r e a m st i m e .co m ; T r e vo r To n d r o.

W

hen Bloomfield isn’t at Manhattan’s Ace Hotel, where she runs the Breslin Bar & Dining Room (16 W. 29th St.; 1-646/2145788; dinner for two US$66) and the John Dory Oyster Bar (1196 Broadway; 1-212/​792-9000; dinner for two US$67), you may find her in Brooklyn at Roberta’s (261 Moore St.; 1-718/​417-1118; lunch for two US$25). “Order a growler [of beer] and a pizza from the wood-burning oven,”

she says. Just as good are the small plates (sweetbreads with Taleggio and honey) and steaks, fish and chops. In Manhattan, Bloomfield’s go-to dim sum spot is Jing Fong (20 Elizabeth St.; 1-212/964-5256; lunch for two US$24). “Arrive early to beat the crowds and eat dumplings pushed around on trolleys by sweet Chinese ladies.” For brunch, she heads to Gabrielle Hamilton’s Prune (54 E. First St.; 1-212/677-6221;

brunch for two US$30).

“I’ve waited for a table for hours, but it’s worth it for the house-made merguez sausage with oysters and the fantastic Bloody Marys.” And for dinner?

Annisa (13 Barrow St.; 1-212/​741-6699; dinner for two US$95). “It’s fine dining, but I like to eat at the bar: Start with a cocktail, then the soup dumplings with foie gras and the mixed roasted eggplant with yogurt water.”

Chef April Bloomfield of the Ace Hotel’s Breslin and John Dory Oyster Bar.

Empire State OF MIND From left: Margherita pizza at Roberta’s; Jing Fong’s façade; the dining room at Annisa; Prune’s oyster omelette.

and She Also loves...

SPICES As long as she’s out shopping for her ­restaurants, Bloomfield will stop at Kalustyan’s (123 Lexington Ave.; 1-212/685-3451) for their selection of more than 4,000 spices.

PUB GRUB For bar fare, without table linens or tasting menus, Bloomfield favors ­Waterfront Ale House (540 Second Ave.; 1-212/696-4104; dinner for two US$55). “They have an extensive list of beers. More important, they do the best chicken wings, with housemade hot sauce aged in whisky barrels.”

MARKET According to Bloomfield, Chelsea Market (75 Ninth Ave.; 1-212/645-0298) is a great place to go with the family because there’s so much to eat, from lobster rolls and Italian sandwiches to Aussie pies and ice cream. Don’t miss Bowery Kitchen, the kitchen-supply shop, and Amy’s Bread, where you can watch the loaves being made.

COOKBOOKS Bloomfield collects ­vintage cookbooks, and the best vintage volumes are at Bonnie ­Slotnick ­Cookbooks (163 W. 10th St.; 1-212/​989-8962). “­Bonnie opens around 1 p.m. and sometimes has a special where she sells one genre at a lower price.”

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 61

insider food Paris

thierry Marx The AVANT-GARDE chef leads the way to his hometown’s INSIDER foodie haunts

A

fter 10 years of cooking his highminded cuisine at the Château ­CordeillanBages, near Bordeaux, Marx returns to the City of Light this summer to open Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx (251 Rue St.-Honoré, First Arr.; 331/70-98-78-88), in the new Mandarin Oriental,

exposed ceiling beams.

It has a peaceful quality I crave.” Plus: melt-inyour-mouth escargot and foie gras. For fine dining, Marx goes to Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire (6 Rue Balzac; 33-1/​58-3612-50; dinner for two €600). “I have huge respect for Pierre for his surprising juxtaposition of ingredients and his attention to detail,” he says. But sometimes a chef with a two-Michelinstarred restaurant on his résumé just wants a big bowl of spaghetti, and for that Marx recommends the house-made pasta at Le Monteverdi (5-7 Rue ­Guisarde, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/42-34-55-90; dinner for two €55), owned by Claudio ­Monteverdi (yes: he’s a direct descendant of the Italian composer).

Petite nibbles

From top: Gagnaire’s grilled sea bass; dessert at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire; Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx; Bistrot Paul Bert.

he Also RECOMMENDS...

OVEN-BAKED SNACKS One of Marx’s most beloved Parisian bakeries is Du Pain et des Idées (34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th Arr.; 331/42-40-44-52; bread for two €5). “The owner, ­Christophe Vasseur, has delicious rolls, brioches,

­ iennoiseries and pain v des amis—a flat bread with thick crust and a nutty taste.” A new favorite: La ­Pâtisserie des Rêves (93 Rue du Bac, Seventh Arr.; 331/42-84-00-82; pastries for two €12). Located on a residential street

on the Left Bank, the shop displays pastries under beautiful glass bells. “The ParisBrest is divine, but I particularly like the éclair au chocolat, topped with a bittersweet glaze.

Philippe Conticini, the chef of this shop, is a true pastry magician.”

CHOCOLATE Marx’s most enthusiastic recommendation of all? The decadent creations at Patrick Roger (12 Cité Berryer, Village Royal, Eighth Arr.; 33-1/40-06-​9916; chocolate for two €12). There are seven

62 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

locations in Paris, but Marx frequents the one closest to his office. “Patrick Roger always offers exactly what I am looking for,” he says. “Excellence, imagination and ­creativity.” Original bonbons include chocolate with thyme and lemon, caramel with vinegar and grape, and caramel with verbena and yuzu.

“Anyone who knows me knows how much I love chocolate.”

SWEET TALKER Clockwise from far left: Lemon meringue tart at La Pâtisserie des Rêves; the patisserie’s interior; a seasonal raspberry pastry.

C lo c kw i s e f r o m to p l e f t: J e f f N a l i n ; Ow e n F r a n k e n ( 2 ) ; co u rt e sy o f t h i e r ry m a r x ; J e a n - J a c q u e s C e c c a r i n i / G i g a r o p h oto / C o n to u r b y G e t t y I m a g e s ; C o u r t e s y o f Pât i s s e r i e d e s R ê v e s ( 3 )

Thierry Marx, chef of the new1 Sur Mesure restaurant in1 the Mandarin Oriental, Paris.1

Paris (the hotel group seems to be collecting capital-C chefs lately, having recently installed Heston Blumenthal and Daniel Boulud in London and Carme Ruscalleda in B ­ arcelona). Now that Marx is back home, he plans to make up for lost time at two of his favorite bistros, Bistrot Paul Bert (18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th Arr.; 33-1/43-72-24-01; dinner for two €70) and Le Petit Verdot (75 Rue du Cherche-Midi, Sixth Arr.; 33-1/42-22-38-27; dinner for two €140). “I go to Paul Bert for the thirtyfive-euro prix fixe menu,” says Marx, surely thinking of fried eggs with truffles and a proper steak frites.

“Le Petit Verdot,” he says, “feels like an authentic countryside dining room—wood tables;

melbourne

donovan cooke A pioneering chef CRAFTS THE ULTIMATE tour down under

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p r i g h t : C o u r t e s y o f S o u t h M e l b o u r n e M a r k e t ( 2 ) ; A l p h a L a u /Av l x y z ( N o i s e t t e ) ; C o u r t e s y o f S i m o n J o h n s o n ( 2 ) ; M a r c e l A u c a r / C o u r t e s y o f M a z e ; C o u r t e s y o f A t l a n t i c G r o u p ( 2 ) ; © djg u n n e r / i s t o c k p h o t o . c o m

other melbourne musts...

MARKET Weekend mornings are the best time to visit the South Melbourne Market (322 Coventry St., Fitzroy; 61-3/​92096295), which opened in 1867. “There is so much under one roof,” Cooke says. “I buy specialty cheeses from various delis.” And, he says, he never leaves without stopping for cheekily named dim sim, a play on classic Chinese dim sum.

D

onovan Cooke is a legend in Melbourne for his run at Est Est Est, a revolutionary French restaurant that closed nearly a decade ago.

Now Cooke, a protégé of Michel Roux and Marco Pierre White, has opened the seafoodinspired Atlantic (8 Whiteman St.; 613/9698-8888; dinner for two A$200) at the Crown Entertainment Complex, which houses the new Crown Metropol hotel, Australia’s largest.

For breakfast, Cooke drops by the European (161 Spring St.; 61-3/ 9654-0811; breakfast for two A$35), where his son is an apprentice.

“There’s great peoplewatching, strong espresso and perfect poached eggs.” Clamms Fast Fish (141 Acland St.; 61-3/9534-1917; lunch for two A$20) provides the city’s top restaurants with their seafood.

“They also serve classic fish-and-chips,” Cooke says. “Get yours to go and head to St. Kilda Beach to watch the waves roll in.” Maze by Gordon Ramsay (Level 1, 8 Whiteman St.; 613/9292-8300; lunch for two A$85) is the chef’s sit-down lunch spot.

“I enjoy the small-plate grazing menu.” What to order? “Yellowfin-tuna tartare with radish and a deconstructed beet salad with goat cheese and Cabernet Sauvignon vinaigrette.”

The Den, a bar in Melbourne.

Above, from left: Donovan Cooke; a flat white, an Aussie-style latte, at the European.

Below: Maze’s beet-and-goatcheese salad.

SPICES For spices, Cooke heads to Simon Johnson, Purveyor of Quality Foods (12 David St., Fitzroy; 61-3/96443630). “If he doesn’t have it, it’s not worth having. He sells everything from handharvested sea salts and smoked paprika to saffron tips and organic Manuka honey from New Zealand.”

to munch on when I’m out and about.”

LATE-NIGHT FEAST After his shift, Cooke drops by the Woolshed Pub (Shed 9, Central Pier, 161 Harbour Esplanade; 61-3/​86239640; dinner for two A$45), in a converted cargo shed on the water. “Start with crispfried Berkshire pork belly with corianderand-red-chili sauce, followed by grass-fed porterhouse steak and chips with horseradish sauce. And sticky date pudding. It’s worth going there

for that pudding alone.”

The Den (61-3/96988888; drinks for two A$35), the bar beneath Cooke’s restaurant, is his pick for a nightcap.

The Cohiba No. 23, with tobacco-infused añejo rum, pear eau-de-vie, fresh apple juice and bitters, is served in a balloon glass and delivered in a humidor.

BAKERY Noisette (84 Bay St.; 61-3/9646-9555; pastries for two A$7) is the place to go for French-style cakes and pastries. “I buy the dense walnut bread Say Cheese Clockwise from top right: A 136-kilo

wheel of Emmental cheese at Emerald Hill Deli, in South Melbourne Market; brioches at Noisette; paprika and olive oil at Simon Johnson; Simply Spanish restaurant, in the market.

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 63

insider pools

take a dip.

c o u r t e s y o f B a n ya n T r e e U n g a s a n , b a l i

From dizzying vistas in the clouds to tropical oceanside idylls, T+L picks 10 splash-worthy swimming pools in the region that will turn your next hotel stay from memorable to unforgettable. By Naomi Lindt

The pool at the Banyan Tree Ungasan, in Uluwatu, Bali.

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 65

on Top of the world Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong

It figures that the Ritz-Carlton would return to Hong Kong with a splash.

From its perch on the top floor of the city’s tallest building, the 118-story International Commerce Centre (ICC), the new hotel’s 20-meter indoor lap pool offers jaw-dropping views of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong Island’s famed skyline. Flanked by floor-to-ceiling glass on one side and engraved white sandstone on the other, the contemporary design includes blue pool tiles and sleek gray-and-white loungers—both in the pool and out.

The view here isn’t just horizontal: 144 LED screens installed on the ceiling and back wall display tranquil images

of the sky and prancing butterflies.

T+L Tip Indulge in a nocturnal soak in the outdoor Jacuzzi. ritzcarlton.com/ hongkong; doubles from HK$4,500. surrealIST stunner Banyan Tree Ungasan, Bali

The Indian Ocean sprawls out in its full, mesmerizing beauty from the Banyan Tree Ungasan, Bali’s largest pool-villa property. Take it in from the villas’ 10-meter private plunge pools, the island’s largest, but don’t miss a dip in the property’s surreal 300-squaremeter L-shaped pool, lined with blue ceramic tiles and edged by angular limestone towers. After the nightly lighting at 6 p.m. of the pool’s gas torches, watch the sun melt into the

ocean. T+L Tip From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., try a free “cooling” massage: a gentle rubdown with cold-water spritzes and a refreshing eye mask. banyantree.com/ bali_ungasan; doubles from US$413. set to make a splash Sky Wave Pool, Galaxy Macau

Details about Macau’s newest luxury property—a 2,200-room casino complex that houses three hotels, including an all-suite Banyan Tree and Hotel Okura—and its record-busting pool remained a tightly held secret until it opened last month. But what’s known is that the 4,000-square-meter rooftop Sky Wave Pool is the largest of its kind, with waves higher than 1.5 meters and 150 meters of “beach”

making waves Clockwise from top left: Kuala Lumpur’s Traders Hotel pool doubles as a nightspot; the St. Regis Lhasa Resort’s gold-plated spa pool; sky-high swimming at Marina Bay Sands; soaking in the Shangri-La Boracay.

66 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Clockwise from top left: courtesy of Traders Hotel kuala lumpur; c o u r t e s y o f Th e S t . R e g i s Lh a s a R e s o r t ; c o u r t e s y o f M a r i n a B a y S a n d s ; c o u r t e s y o f t h e Sh a n g r i - L a B o r a c a y R e s o r t & S P A

insider pools

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : c o u r t e s y o f A n a n ta r a k i h ava h v i l l a s , M a l d i v e s ; c o u r t e s y o f t h e R i t z - C a r lt o n H o n g K o n g ; c o u r t e s y o f t h e Sh e r a t o n Nh a T r a n g

get wet Clockwise from left: Sunset over the pool at the Anantara Kihavah Villas, Maldives; the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s 118th-floor pool is the world’s highest; the Sheraton Nha Trang’s roof-deck pool.

comprised of 350 tons of white sand.

Prepare to be wowed. galaxymacau.com; doubles from MOP1,500. all that glitters St. Regis Lhasa

Sitting 3,650 meters above sea level, the St. Regis Lhasa’s petite square spa pool measures just 10 meters across, but what it lacks in dimensions it more than makes up for in materials: its tiles are plated with 24-karat gold leaf. Inspired by the gilded rooftop of Lhasa’s Potala Palace and lined with dramatic oak columns, it’s a highlight of the property’s Iridium Spa, with an illuminated base and heated fresh water kept at a welcoming 28 to 32 degrees Celsius. T+L Tip Note the

painting of a flying black-and-white dragon by French artist Christian de Lambedère. stregis.com/lhasa; doubles from RMB2,150. tropical idyll Shangri-La Boracay

Framed by palm and ficus trees, thatched cabanas and spouting-fish fountains, this free-form bathing beauty is so sexy it was one of the locations for this year’s Sports Illustrated’s iconic swimsuit issue.

The pool’s expansive lagoon-blue saltwater abuts Banyugan Beach and its azure Sulu Sea, offering a seamless panorama in countless shades of blue.

Dedon lounge chairs scattered on islands around the pool’s six pockets

offer optimal privacy, but you might be tempted to spend all day in the water thanks to the submerged daybeds.

T+L Tip Hungry? Nibble on a brickoven-baked pizza from the pool’s Cielo restaurant. shangri-la.com/boracay; doubles from P17,000. urban hotspot Traders Hotel, Kuala Lumpur

This might just be the best spot in Malaysia’s capital to admire the city’s scalloped Petronas Towers. Located on the 33rd floor, the oblong, 143-squaremeter lap pool offers a front-row seat by a wall of windows for optimal tower adulation—the view must be seen to be believed. After sunset, poolside transforms into one of the city’s most »

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 67

insider pools

The pool at Bali’s Alila Villas Uluwatu seems to float above the Indian Ocean.

sunset showstopper Anantara Kihavah Villas, Maldives

The latest luxury digs in the Maldives, the three-month-old Anantara Kihavah Villas lays claim to the islands’ longest swimming pool. The rectangular, purple-and-blue-tiled, 49-meter stunner is edged by decadesold curving coconut palms and faces the crystal-clear, otherworldly cerulean lagoon of the Baa Atoll. A row of waterfront lounge chairs offers the perfect spot for a sundowner—if you’re lucky, you might even glimpse some frolicking dolphins. T+L Tip Personal butlers are on hand to provide fresh drinks, fruit skewers, cold towels and five-minute massages; they’ll even keep your sunglasses sparkling clean. kihavah-maldives.anantara.com; doubles from US$1,170.

68 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

wild beauty Alila Villas Uluwatu

Built onto a cliff along Bali’s wild, southern tip near the famed Uluwatu surf spot, it’s practically impossible not to be rewarded with awe-inspiring panoramas at the Alila Villas Uluwatu.

Each of the 84 villas comes with rectangular saltwater pools that overlook the Indian Ocean, while the Olympic-size infinity pool, tiled in shimmering blue, is 100 meters above sea level and boasts even-more commanding vistas. Pool guests are treated to a hamper with chilled water, sunscreen, face-spray freshener and an iPod. T+L Tip Don’t miss an afternoon sorbet—flavors include white chocolate and tamarillo. alilahotels.com/uluwatu; doubles from US$520. family fun Sheraton Nha Trang

At 25 meters above sea level and with an infinity edge that appears to blend right into the Nha Trang Bay, the new Sheraton’s 21-meter aquatic digs make guests feel as though they’re

swimming out to the horizon. The kid-friendly mini-pools make this perfect for families; parents can read a book while dangling their toes in the pool at the overwater steel-andwood loungers. A separate plunge pool hosts a bar. T+L Tip Little ones can be dropped off for a few hours at the supervised play area. sheraton.com/ nhatrang; doubles from US$128. grand ambition Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

At the much-hyped mega casino– resort, perhaps no single element impresses as much as the pool. At a height of 200 meters, a trio of interconnected outdoor infinity pools stretch across three 55-story towers, the equivalent of about three Olympicsize pools. Need to catch your breath?

Hunker down in one of the many chillout areas with a cocktail; the Hot Deck has muddled peaches, tequila and ginger. T+L Tip Fend off the heat with free cucumber eye masks and bottles of Evian Face Mist. marinabaysands. com; doubles from S$379. ✚

C o u r t e s y o f A l i l a V i l l a s U l u wat u

popular lounges; DJ’s spin on a nightly basis. T+L Tip Want a tranquil swim?

Come before 8 p.m., when the crowds start to show up. shangri-la.com; doubles from RM349.

T h e L u x u r y o f b e i n g y o u R s e l f TM

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insider cool jobs

Duty calls. What is a day in the life like for a head butler at London’s lanesborough hotel? T+L goes behind the scenes with daniel jordaan. by kathryn o’shea-evans

The snooze button is not an option for Daniel Jordaan, the 35-year-old South African who oversees all 23 butlers at London’s iconic Lanesborough hotel, in Knightsbridge. “I’ve wanted to be in the hospitality industry since I was six years old,” he says. “My parents owned a hunting lodge in the Karoo, so I learned early on the importance of good service.” After completing his training at hotels across South Africa, he landed a job at the Lanes­ borough, one of the first London hotels to institute private butlers 20 years ago. From the moment Jordaan wakes up, he’s on the job. “I watch BBC News religiously every morning, since I deal with politicians, celebrities and royals all day,” he says. On his train ride to work, he checks e-mail on his Black­Berrys—he has two—and reviews the arrivals list.

7:30 a.m.

Jordaan inspects the butlers on shift.

(Shoes shined?

Check. Fresh shave?

Check. Suits ironed?

Check.) “I hire people who have extreme ­attention to detail, along with great intuition and manners,” Jordaan says. He personally delivers hot coffee and tea, a newspaper, and the weather report to his guests, and switches on the news or opens the curtains, depending on requests.

7:45 a.m.

“A guest arriving today wants a rare Japanese apple in his room upon check-in,” Jordaan tells the main kitchen’s chef, who places the order. At a hotel where it’s rumored 70 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

a guest once asked for, and ­received, zebra milk—no request is too outlandish.

9 a.m.

“I’m craving another coffee,” he says, “but I’ve downed two in the last three hours.” Jordaan texts all butlers on their BlackBerrys—it’s time for the morning’s briefing and a crash course in international greetings. “I’m obsessive about making guests feel welcome in their native tongue,” he says, noting that all butlers are taught to say “hello” and “thank you” in most languages, and they tend to speak three. They can also hand-sew missing buttons, ­troubleshoot iPhones and cater to your mood—good or bad.

9:30 a.m.

“I have to send a porter out,” Jordaan says. “A pop star has asked for some black Egyptian-cotton towels and 15 fig-scented ­candles from Jo Malone.” Another request? To arrange an impromptu en suite birthday party that afternoon with cupcakes, decorations and gifts for the six-year-old daughter of another guest. “Thank goodness for Harrods.”

10:30 a.m.

A woman calls the hotel very concerned, because her boss isn’t answering his phone. Jordaan checks on him and finds he’s merely sleeping off a very eventful night. To rouse him, he sprinkles some water on his face and ensures the CEO is off to the airport.

noon There’s a crisis in the laundry room: a colored sock has made its way into a load of white underwear, staining everything pea green. He sends an » Illustrated by Kagan McLeod

To p : P h i l i p H o l l i s

6 a.m.

insider cool jobs assistant to purchase a set of the same brand. “We won’t enlighten the guest—some things are best left unsaid.”

12:30 p.m.

A FedEx box with a couture wedding dress inside arrives, sent from a bride in New York. “She’s ­getting married here in two weeks,” Jordaan says, before having the dress steamed and put under lock and key.

12:50 p.m.

The Japanese apples have arrived, but the supplier sent the wrong ones.

Jordaan sends a driver to Fortnum & Mason to buy a dozen at five times the original price.

1 p.m.

Finally, lunch. On the menu? Smoked salmon, hummus, wild rocket and beetroot on whole-wheat pita bread (Jordaan’s favorite) served in the staff dining room, with a bowl of Italian almond ice cream from Apsleys, the hotel’s restaurant.

2 P.M.

4:30 p.m.

In the junior suite, Jordaan and a co-worker inspect the setup for the birthday party. The room’s refined décor has been Mattel-­ified, with hot-pink balloons and plastic daisies everywhere. When 10 excited kids arrive at the door, the butlers start to sing “­Happy Birthday.”

6 p.m.

A Thai couple is ­arriving on their honeymoon, so Jordaan heads to the kitchen to find rice and sesame seeds to display on a silver tray as a welcome gift. “These symbolize good luck and fertility,” Jordaan says, leaving the gifts next to their bed.

Jordaan greets several repeat visitors and then checks his e-mail. A regular guest in ­Germany is ­collecting branded hotel pens and has ­requested the ­Lanesborough’s, so Jordaan pops one in an envelope and drops it by the ­concierge to be mailed out.

6:45 p.m.

3 p.m.

Jordaan does a last-minute floor check, greeting each of the butlers with a personal “Good night; call me if you need anything.” Just as he’s printing tomorrow’s arrivals list, there’s one last demand: the £7,325-a-night Royal Suite would like a formal five-course private dinner for eight, served on the double. High-profile requests typically go through Jordaan, but he quickly assigns in-room dining and the Royal Suite butler with the task.

Sound the alarm—a guest’s evening gown has been torn by her suitcase zipper, and she’s supposed to wear it to a film premiere tonight.

Luckily, seamstress Nina Rayit—who works with everyone from ­Simon Cowell to the Duchess of York—is on Jordaan’s speed dial and arrives within 15 minutes.

4 p.m.

It’s the busiest time for check-ins. Jordaan greets the head of an African state, the CEO of a successful global brand and a well-known actress who his mother presumed dead long ago. “I must text my mum to tell her that she is still with us,” he says.

72 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

A repeat American guest invites Jordaan to the hotel’s Withdrawing Room bar for a quick drink (fruit juice on the rocks—he’s on duty).

7:15 p.m.

8:30 p.m.

On his way home, Jordaan swings by Marks & ­Spencer to pick up ready-made paella for dinner. Exhausted from his day, he drifts off, hoping the Royal Suite dinner is a success. ✚ Lanesborough Hotel, a St. Regis Hotel; Hyde Park Corner; 44-20/7259-5599; ­lanes​borough.com; doubles from £475, including butler service.

insider high and low

SINGAPORE sojourn. The Lion City welcomes two stylish

boutique stays—a history-steeped fort and an energetic newcomer in little india—at two different price tags. By Daven Wu

s$150

per night

s$320

Hotel Fort Canning • Location A former British Far East Command HQ

Moon @ 23 Dickson • Location A newly built five-story building in the heart

during World War II set amid thick tropical foliage high on Fort Canning Park. Clarke Quay’s restaurants and nightclubs are a leisurely 10-minute walk away, while buzzy Orchard Road is a quick five-minute taxi ride.

• First Impressions An awkward driveway leads into a lobby reminiscent of a modern colonial governor’s country home. Staff welcome guests with coffee from an industrialsize Nespresso machine. • Rooms Eighty-six spacious, high-ceilinged rooms range in size from 30 to 94 sqm. The Deluxe Garden rooms on the ground floor open into pretty courtyards with day beds, while the light-filled Premium rooms on the upper floors overlook either greenery or the city. • Pedigree The hotel is owned and managed by country club Legends Fort Canning Park. • Drawbacks The quality of the complimentary breakfast puts one in mind of economy airplane fare. Don’t Miss An earlymorning jog around Fort Canning Park followed by a brisk swim in the 25-meter outdoor lap pool. Book an afternoon massage at the in-house Thann Sanctuary spa. • Value Factor The only city hotel you’ll find in the midst of such lush, teeming greenery. 11 Canning Walk; 65/6559-6769; hfcsingapore.com; doubles from S$320, including breakfast.

of Little India, close to the Dhoby Ghaut and Bugis MRT train stations. • First Impressions The front-desk staff are a bit green but eager politeness wins the day. A small, bright lobby adjoins the breakfast room. • Rooms There are 83 rooms in all, ranging from a petite 16 sqm to the 30-sqm rooftop Moonlight Suite. The latter has a deep alfresco plunge bath. All come with iPod-/iPhonecompatible stereo sets. • Pedigree This the first hotel by the Hup Heng Group, a family-run property and automotive trading company. Scion Billy Ong fronts the hotel’s publicity. • Drawbacks Because the hotel is set in a row of traditional shop houses, many of the rooms don’t have windows, so be specific prior to booking. Don’t Miss The incredible array of Indian, Malay and Chinese street food right outside the front door. • Value Factor Wireless Internet, breakfast and room-bar drinks are all complimentary. From 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., a free drinks bar is set up in the lobby. 23 Dickson Rd.; 65/6827-6666; moon.com. sg; doubles from S$150, including breakfast. ✚

74 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

F r o m l e f t: co u rt e sy o f h ot e l fo rt c a n n i n g ; co u rt e sy o f m o o n @ 2 3 d i c ks o n

per night

stylish traveler

[st ]

fashion

m o d e l , r a e / m u s e n y c ; m a k e - u p , b e r t a c a m a l a t j e d r o o t . ; h a i r , b r y c e s c a r l e t t /a r t i s t s b y t i m o t h Y p r i a n o

east meets west

the latest source of inspiration for american designer ralph lauren?

China. here, a look from this season’s collection at mandarin oriental, new york.

Styled by Mimi Lombardo

Asian aesthetic Panne velvet dress, velvet-and-suede heels, Rhodoid minaudière clutch, jade-and-crystal earrings, and jet-and-crystal necklace with silk tassel. By ralph

lauren collection.

Photographed by Dean Kaufman in the hotel’s Presidential Suite.

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 77

[st] spotlight

INDONESIAN DESIGN STEPS OUT Young, cosmopolitan and proudly home-grown, Jakarta’s designers are making their mark both locally and internationally. Here, T+L asks three for their best local tips. BY SARA SCHONHARDT

JAKARTA MODERN

Clockwise from left: Leonard Theosabrata; Accupunto’s façade; two of the brand’s designs, inspired by Eastern medicine.

UNRAVELING JAKARTA “It’s one of those cities that you grow to like because of the people.

It can offer modern amenities, but not culture, not history. Instead, you have pockets that you grow to love.”

BEST NOODLES “I like Pluit, in the north, because I’m big on noodles, and if you don’t live in the north you only know one kind of noodle.

At Bakmi Ayam Alok [Jln. Tanjung Duren Barat 1 No. 18; noodles for two US$5], the noodles are almost al dente and it’s got this broth that tastes like a whole chicken has been tossed into the pot.”

TOP WEEKEND GETAWAY “A drive around Ubud, in Bali, or getting nasi campur from a warung and taking it to watch the sunset with a beer.”

78 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

ACCUPUNTO

“If it’s not trying to be something original or different, I’m not going to be a part of it,” says Leonard Theosabrata, 33, the mind behind Accupunto (Grand Indonesia, East Mall, L3–39, Jln. M.H. Thamrin; accupunto.com), an Indonesian furniture brand famed for making fashionable furniture functional—its Ergonic collection is the first in the world to combine contemporary chair design with Eastern medicine.

Since launching in 2002, Accupunto has swept up a host of accolades, earning Germany’s prestigious Red Dot Design Award in 2003 for an acupressure armchair that molds to your body, and a Wallpaper* award in 2009 for a woodand-plastic seat by acclaimed designer Michael Young.

Though Theosabrata studied product design at California’s Art Center College of Design, he saw returning to Jakarta as an opportunity. “In Indonesia I can mold things, make them happen, and really be a part of shaping my surroundings” he says. Case in point: in late 2009, he started online creative hub, whiteboardjournal.com, and is now partnering with the Indonesian government to build a U.S. market for the country’s nascent rattan industry.

f r o m t o p l e f t; c o u r t e sy o f l e o n a r d t h e o s a b r ata ; c o u r t e sy o f a c c u p u n t o ( 3 )

leonard’S TIPS

selly’S TIPS jakarta HANGOUTS “I like the variety of things that Jakarta now has to offer—there is always a new interesting café or restaurant opening up.

At Loewy [Oakwood Building, Mega Kuningan; 62-21/2554-2378; loewyjakarta.com; dinner for two US$50], a Frenchstyle bistro, the mix of people makes it feel like you’re not in Indonesia.”

c lo c kw i s e f ro m to p : co u rt esy o f cot to n i n k ; co u rt esy o f p l a ( 2 ) ; co u rt esy o f s e l ly h a r y a t i ; c o u r t e s y o f c o t t o n i n k

COTTON INK

From a fashion experiment to one of Indonesia’s coolest upand-coming labels, Cotton Ink (Plaza Indonesia Extension, fourth floor, Jln. M.H. Thamrin Kav. 28– 30; cottonink-shop.com) has come far since former high school classmates Carline Darjanto and Ria Sarwono, both 23, joined forces in 2008. Fresh out of university—Darjanto graduated from Jakarta’s fashion-focused LaSalle College International, while Sarwono studied at Paramadina University and the London College of Fashion—the two ambitious designers started with simple, printed T-shirts to make some “pocket money,” then moved on to their signature multi-use throws, whose tubular shape allows them to be worn as a shawl, hood, belt or tube top.

While their basic cotton knits may seem unremarkable in the country that gave birth to batik, it’s their simplicity and wearability that have garnered an enormous carline’S following—the brand has TIPS been featured at Jakarta HERITAGE IN A BOWL Fashion Week and won Cleo “Sari Ratu [Lt. 3 Jln. Magazine’s fashion award for M.H. Thamrin Kav 28–30; Best Innovative Local Brand. sariratu.com; lunch for two US$8] does Padang food, “We want to design things from Sumatra. It’s very people can wear and breathe spicy with lots of coconut in,” says Darjanto. She also milk, so you have to be OK with chili. The coconut adds: “We want to prove to milk becomes so rich, and people that local can be cool.” there are so many flavors Carline Darjanto and Ria Sarwono of Cotton Ink, above. A model wears the brand’s fashions.

in each dish. I love our Indonesian food heritage, but if you have to pick one type, try Padang.”

VINTAGE FINDS “Flea markets with vintage shops have become a hit here, but they’re not like the ones in London or New York that sell highend stuff. At Pasar Senen [Jln. Pasar Senen], you can find hidden gems if you’re lucky.”

LOCAL HANGOUTS “I like Java Bleu, Café au Lait and Vietopia [Jln. Cikini Raya Nos. 15–33; lunch for two US$15]— three small, unpretentious places in a row where you can talk with friends and go without thinking what to wear.”

Pla made its name for chic flats, above. One of the brand’s colorful clutches, below. Pla co-owner Selly Haryati, below right.

GOOD READS “Jakarta doesn’t yet have big bookstores, like Borders; I hope one day we will. For now, Aksara [Jln. Kemang Raya 8b; 62-21/7199-288; aksara. com] is one of the best.

It’s cozy and has a good ambiance, and a good selection of music.”

PLA

Fuchsia, plum and zebra are just some of the patterns and colors favored by Selly Haryati, 33, and Mellisa Soesanto, 29, the pair behind accessories brand Pla (Plaza Indonesia, third floor, Jln. M.H. Thamrin, Kav. 28–30; pla-style. com). Though the label began by addressing a gap in the market—before Pla, Jakarta lacked stylish, affordable flat shoes—today, it stands out for its full range of handcrafted products, including wedges, bags and clutches. Committed to keeping their products affordable—shoes start at Rp200,000—they work only with local craftsmen and source their raw materials (lambskin; snakeskin) from ethical sources in Indonesia. Now, the duo is looking to meet demand from Europe as well as Asian fashion centers such as Singapore and Malaysia while maintaining their commitment to quality and unique, limited editions.

“We’ve been asked to introduce our products in Europe and the U.S.,” says Haryati, “but since they are all handmade it takes time to make them.”

The next challenge? “To keep innovating,” says Haryati, who has noticed others mimicking their style.

“Even though people are copying our brand, we’re creating the new, fresh things that show we were first.” ✚ travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 79

[st] bring it back

well noted

even In OUR WIRELESS TIMES, the hotel notepad abides. oliver strand looks at its enduring appeal

If you travel light, a hotel notepad is an ideal memento—slim, utilitarian, free. And even if it doesn’t cost anything (except the price of a room, or a Campari in the lobby), it’s exclusive.

The only way to get a hotel notepad is to find yourself at that hotel.

At most recent count, I have 20 or so knocking around in a drawer, and as a rule I use the more distinguished notepads for the most routine notes.

One from Le Meurice, in Paris, is for grocery lists (olive oil, cumin, dishwashing liquid: check); one from Blantyre, in the Berkshires, is for expenses (the column of numbers jotted down on it no longer means anything to me, but must have been crucial once).

Working out who did or didn’t walk the dog is that much more entertaining when it’s scribbled on a creamy notepad from the Hay-Adams, the discreet D.C. hotel where the Obamas stayed before moving in to the White House.

The more obscure, the better.

Important messages are saved for notepads from Sea Ranch Lodge, a 1970’s masterpiece on the ­California coast, or the ­Locarno, an aging hotel in Rome with a birdcage elevator and a bar that always feels like dusk. In fact, I rarely use the pad from the Ritz Paris or Chateau ­Marmont because I fear it would come across as showing off. But the Marriott in Panama City? That’s for special occasions. ✚ 80 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Photographed by James Worrell

[st] jewelry

three globe-trotting creatives talk to t+L’s Mimi lombardo about the destinations that influence their jewelry designs BUILDING BLOCKS “I often find myself walking up

and down Manhattan’s avenues, just looking at the skyscrapers. The Chrysler building 1 is my favorite.

Many of the pieces in our Perlee collection”—such as this white-gold ring 2 —“mimic its Art Deco elements.” retail therapy “I head to the Strand Book Store 3 (828 Broadway; 1-212/473-1452) to browse

through rare photography books. And the Shop at Cooper-Hewitt 4 (2 E. 91st St.; 1-212/849-8355; cooper​hewittshop.org) is great for finds such as a stainless-steel-and-mahogany kettle by Frank Gehry. art scene “I love gallery-hopping in Chelsea.” His first stop? David Zwirner (525 W. 19th St.; 1-212/727-2070), showing Minimalist sculptures by Donald Judd.

Nicolas Bos Creative director, Van Cleef & Arpels

1

2

3

4

latest inspiration

New York City

EYE CANDY “Brasília is like an open-air museum for contemporary architecture. It’s a real treat to see the Oscar Niemeyer–designed Museu Nacional 1 (sc.df.gov.br) on a daily basis,” says Amorim, whose 18-karat-gold ring 2 recalls Niemeyer’s modern aesthetic. where to stay “Royal Tulip Brasília Alvorada 3 (royaltulipbrasiliaalvorada.com;

doubles from BRL400) is my favorite hotel. Its balconies overlook the presidential palace and Paranoá Lake, so you can take in the city’s power and beauty.” local flavor “When in Brasília, you must visit the ice cream shop Saborella 4 (Casa Park; 55-61/3361-0909). There’s bound to be a line, but it’s worth it. Try the tapioca flavor.”

Carla Amorim Designer, Carla Amorim

1

2

3

4

latest inspiration

Brasília

stylish retreat Pedrini always stays at Le Sirenuse

1 (sirenuse.it; doubles from €350). “Against its

Tito Pedrini

whitewashed walls, the vibrantly colored floor tiles look like gemstones,” he says. The property served as a muse for his rose-quartz ring with diamondstudded gold 2 . ITALIAN KITCHEN “I recommend the eggplant Parmesan and vegetables from the garden at Lo Scoglio Da Tommaso 3 (15 Piazza

Designer and CEO, Tito Pedrini

latest inspiration

Amalfi Coast, Italy

82 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

1

2

delle Sirene, Massa Lubrense; 39-081/808-1026; dinner for two €180), a restaurant in Nerano Bay. It’s surrounded by the Mediterranean on three sides, glistening like a sapphire.” BRING IT BACK “Those famous Positano sandals 4 are literally made on your feet, so they fit like gloves. The quality at Safari (2 Via della Tartana; 39-08/981-1440; safaripositano. com) is fantastic.”

3

4

BOS , FROM LEF T : COUR T ESY OF V AN CLEEF & ARPELS ; DA V ID HENDERSON / W ORKBOOOK S T OCK / GE T T Y IMAGES ; COUR T ESY OF V AN CLEEF & ARPELS ; COUR T ESY OF t h e S T RAND ; COUR T ESY OF T HE SHOP A T COOPER - HE W I T T ( 2 ) . AMORIM , FROM LEF T : COUR T ESY OF CARLA AMORIM ; © G a d g e t 3 3 3 / D r e a m s t i m e . c o m ; COUR T ESY OF CARLA AMORIM ; COUR T ESY OF ROYAL T ULIP BRAS í LIA ALV ORADA ( 2 ) ; COUR T ESY OF SABORELLA . PEDRINI , FROM LEF T : COUR T ESY OF T I T O PEDRINI ; www . s i r e n u s e . i t ; COUR T ESY OF T I T O PEDRINI ; DAN COS T I n ; COUR T ESY OF SA f a r i

Gem Seekers

[st] shopping

RETAIL REDUX

O

style city Clockwise

from top: A Curious Teepee; K Ki bakes delicate, French-style confections; the Little Dröm Store embodies creative Singapore; fire-engine-red floors and a drum kit inside The Pigeonhole; Little Dröm’s eclectic wares.

84 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

ver the past year, Singapore’s shopping scene has gone from slavishly mainstream to stylishly offbeat. Moving away from big-name brands and cookie-cutter malls, a crop of creative concept stores—hybrid, multi-brand spaces selling everything from clothing and accessories to food and art—have thrown open their doors, ramping up the city’s retail appeal with a genre-bending array of creative products, tasty cuisine and homegrown indie culture. Here, we spotlight the city’s coolest new hangouts.

THE PIGEONHOLE

With its motley contents and independent spirit, this book café and arts space refuses to be pinned down. “I’d like us to be a safe space for expression, while at the same time also be a safe space for those who don’t feel like expressing themselves at all,” says lawyer-turned-store owner Ave Chan, who runs The Pigeonhole with her boyfriend Rayner Lim, who works in the film industry. Nestled in a pair of Duxton Hill shop houses, the stripped-down interior has the feel of an arty friend’s abode: exposed bulbs dangle from long cables strewn across the ceiling; a shiny drum set twinkles among pre-loved furniture; and a wooden rocking horse occupies one corner on the fire-engine-red floor. In the daytime, browse the diverse range of secondhand books—The Rock »

Clockwise from top: courtesy of A Curious Teepee; courtesy of the Little Dröm Store & K Ki (2); courtesy of the Pigeonhole; courtesy of the Little Dröm Store

In Singapore, style-savvy locals are1 opening up a mix of eclectic crossover stores,1 blending COUTURE and culture, cocktails1 and cuisine. BY LIANG XINYI1

[st] shopping

Snob’s Dictionary; Farewell to Revolution—while sipping a smooth freshly ground coffee. At night, try some of the stronger tipple—Japanese Yamazaki malt whisky; Swiss Quöllfrisch beer—and check out the dizzying range of happenings: open-mic events, live music nights, movie screenings, NGO talks and even bi-monthly Sunday flea markets. See the website for schedules. 52 & 53 Duxton Rd.; closed on Mondays; thepigeonhole.com.sg; drinks and snacks for two S$22.

singapore spin

Clockwise from top: At the Little Dröm Store; artwork at the store; A Curious Teepee’s airy space; at The Pigeonhole; ReStore Living serves up sweet snacks; a beechwood armchair at the furniture store.

When Yvan Rodic makes an appearance at your shop, you know you’re doing something right. The man behind widely acclaimed street-style blog Facehunter chose A Curious Teepee for a book signing when it soft-opened last December, and the place hasn’t looked back since. Spearheaded by Singaporean Tracy Phillips, whose creative ventures include hangouts such as Tanjong Beach Club, the 200-square-meter, Takenouchi Webb–designed boutique has floor-toceiling windows, towering beige-wood shelves and overhanging lights encased in lemon-yellow tubes—all the better to illuminate the store’s quirky clothes, accessories and housewares. Now, indie-inclined fashionistas come here looking for labels both global (Sandqvist totes; Triwa watches) and local (Singlish notebooks by Apostrophe S.). Meanwhile, a young, plugged-in crowd congregates in the space’s café-bar, which brews gourmet coffee from cult bean-roaster Papa Palheta, mixes playfully named cocktails—try the Krispy Clean cucumber martini—and serves up dishes like A Curious Quiche, generously packed with leeks and bacon. 02-24 Scape, 2 Orchard Link; 65/6820-1680; acuriousteepee.com; drinks and snacks for two S$50.

RESTORE LIVING

United by their shared love of restoring old furniture, Tokyo native Megumi Wettstein and homegrown ad exec Liew Hwee Min launched ReStore Living six months ago. Tucked in a prewar shop house in the historic Tanjong Pagar district, the cozy, laid-back space showcases the pair’s hybrid creations—think pencil-leg chairs reupholstered with red tweed fabric, 86 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Clockwise from top left: courtesy of The Little Dröm Store & K Ki (2) courtesy of A Curious Teepee; courtesy of The Pigeonhole; courtesy of ReStore Living (2)

A CURIOUS TEEPEE

and teak dressers with three-way mirrors refreshed with a new coat of varnish. “Along the way, we added old plates and cups to our collection and we started thinking, Why not put them to use too?” explains Wettstein, and a café was added to the shop. When not scouring the island for discarded furniture objects, Wettstein and Liew take turns in the small kitchen, rolling out fresh bagels and waffles served on the retro dishware, all for sale. 124 Tanjong Pagar Rd.; 65/62223510; restoreliving.com; drinks and snacks for two S$20.

THE LITTLE DRÖM STORE & K KI

Hipsters have been hightailing it to this quirky spot since early last year, when it surfaced in a quiet corner of Ann Siang Hill. Co-owners Stanley Tan and Antoinette Wong left their careers in design to curate The Little Dröm Store (dröm means “dream” in Swedish), a monochrome shop packed with artsy objects like Polaroid cameras, limited-edition photo books, colorful babushka dolls and origami-esque pinbrooches. Sharing the same space is K Ki, pronounced “cakey,” where self-taught pâtissier Kenneth Seah and wife Delphine Liau serve French-Japanese treats that resemble dainty pieces of art. Order the Little Red Riding Hood, a dark chocolate cake topped with raspberry, or the Kinabaru, a coconut-and-passionfruit mousse. Seats—and cakes—are limited, so try to drop by on a weekday or during off-peak hours. 7 Ann Siang Hill; 65/6225-5541; thelittledromstore.com; 65/6225-6650; kki-sweets.com; cakes and drinks for two S$30.

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : c o u r t e s y o f A T h o u s a n d Ta l e s ( 2 ) ; courtesy of The Pigeonhole; courtesy of ReStore Living (2)

A THOUSAND TALES

Set on indie-cool Haji Lane, this split-level crossover boutique started from a “passion for Midcentury Scandinavian furniture classics as well as for design and art,” says former stockbroker Sandra Chu, who co-owns the space with two architect friends. The ground-floor furniture store, A Thousand Tales, sells one-of-a-kind teakwood pieces inspired by Scandinavian designs—which can be customized and matched with your choice of fabric—and displays them alongside artworks by Japanese sculptor Sumio Suzuki. An open wooden stairway leads upstairs to Café Fables, where you can order coffee and savory-sweet snacks—matcha red-bean cakes; banana omelets—amid an ever-changing furniture collection of mod-style sofas, armchairs and sideboards. Drop by in the evening and the café turns into Bar Stories, a lively 50-seat watering hole that serves up stirredor-shaken drinks; order the raspberry sake martini or the mojito sorbet. 55 Haji Lane; 65/6298-0838; athousandtales.com; drinks for two S$44. ✚

creative minds

Clockwise from top: Inside Bar Stories; the façade of A Thousand Tales; Rayner Lim and Ave Chan of The Pigeonhole; made-to-measure at ReStore Living; furniture comes first at the store.

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 87

journal

travel topics in depth, vivid visuals and more

i n s e t: co u rt e sy o f c a n to p o p

Top: Cantopop, a reimagined version of a Hong Kong café Inset: The Lionhead Sizzler at the restaurant. Bottom: The view at Xiao Nan Guo @ One Peking.

Hong Kong tables Where to eat NOW in a city where time is money, and supply and demand reign supreme? Follow the crowds. by lara Day. photographed by Samantha Sin

S

omething is standing between me and my food.

It’s a sleepy Sunday morning, and I’ve somehow made it to a Sham Shui Po neighborhood defined by shuttered fashion outlets, 1960’s tenaments and the occasional rusty scrap shop. The area is deserted except for a huddle of pyjama-sporting grandmothers, elderly uncles leafing through Ming Pao, children with Hello Kitty backpacks, and yuppies stroking iPads.

Together, we’re waiting outside the new branch of Tim Ho Wan, secretly praying that the poker-faced door hostess will show some sign of mercy. My stomach growls in protest. »

travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 89

journal restaurants

worth waiting for From left: Butao Ramen draws the crowds; egg raviolo with caviar and parmesan foam at Liberty Private Works;

It turns out this is an archetypal Hong Kong experience, and not just because the restaurant boasts the planet’s most affordable Michelin star (dishes start at HK$10). Across the city, if you’re looking for a hot meal, Q marks the spot: from cramped noodle joints to ritzy grandes tables, you can’t seem to eat anywhere without waiting in line.

Tim Ho Wan, by former Four Seasons chef Mak Pui Gor, is a case in point. When the French guide first came to town in 2009, scattering constellations across establishments both local and international, the place was an obscure, 20-seater hole-in-the-wall in Mongkok. Now, people routinely wait up to three hours, even on weekdays, to sample Mak’s expertly turned-out dim sum. Color me hypoglycemic, but I’m relieved—no, thrilled—to learn that Tim Ho Wan’s Sham Shui Po incarnation has two floors, an abundance of seating, and a more reasonable waiting time.

Within 20 minutes, the door lady has smiled on me and I’m sharing a table with two new friends: genteel auntie types who document each dish with their jewel-spangled iPhones. We’re oohing over a dainty cortège delivered to us by brisk servers: satiny cheung fan, the rice-flour rolls plump with savory-sweet barbecued pork and a scintilla of fresh coriander; delicate har gao that burst with shrimpy goodness and flirt with a hint of sesame; succulent pork-andshrimp siu mai, bound in tofu skin and topped with a single wolfberry; and the restaurant’s signature take on my favorite childhood dish, charsiu bao, the pork filling sugary, almost jam-like, within a crisp, deep-fried golden bun. The only 90 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

Looking for a hot meal?

Q marks the spot, from CRAMPED noodle joints to ritzy grandes tables

letdown is the greenery: a plate of poached seasonal vegetables turns out to be watery lettuce in oyster sauce, but at these prices, it’s hard to complain.

Hong Kong restaurateurs are cottoning on to the perception that what’s truly worth eating is something someone else wants (maybe they’ve watched Where Harry Met Sally). Take the modish Butao Ramen, where 20-odd people are dawdling on an otherwise quiet side alley at 10 a.m. On a Monday. “Do they have jobs?” my friend asks.

At least they have their eye on a prize: one of 200 bowls of ramen served daily. In an ingenious harnessing of market economics, local owners Meter Chen and Chandler Tang decided to limit supply of their specialty, pork-bone soup noodles prepared by Japanese master ramen maker Ikuta Satoshi, and voilà, the city has responded with zealous, borderline fanatical demand. An hour later the queue has doubled in length, I’m jostling elbows at a wooden counter,

chef Vicky Chen, of Liberty Private Works; at Tim Ho Wan, chef Mak Pui Gor serves up top-flight dim sum for a song.

and the Red King, one of four varieties of noodle on offer, is tingling in my mouth. The ramen is springy, the broth zinging with red chili (hence the name), and the toppings— pork belly, scallions, pickles, ear mushrooms—tasty. The dish is more than palatable, but I’m not convinced it’s worth the wait—and they’ve forgotten my request for a soft-boiled egg. What’s more, when I try to stop for lunch another day at Tokyo–New York ramen chain Hide-Chan, which recently opened around the corner, I’m turned away because the kitchen has reached its daily “quota.” Is this really what good eating is about?

Vietnamese-American chef Que Vinh Dang, a New York transplant who trained with such culinary luminaries as Geoffrey Zakarian, doesn’t think so. At his tucked-away SoHo restaurant TBLS, his takes on upscale comfort food are so in demand that bookings need to be made almost two months in advance. “In New York, chefs are taught that food is about personality, expressing yourself,” he says. “A lot of restaurants here lack character, because chefs come second to some company’s marketing idea.”

He’s right. This may be a food-obsessed city, but until recently, options were less diverse than you’d think, at least in terms of non-Asian food. When I moved to a SoHo apartment five years ago, I walked down Staunton and Elgin streets, marveling at the variety of cuisines—Indian, French, Nepalese, Greek—at my doorstep. Only after countless bland, persistently samey meals did I learn that most were owned by the same handful of restaurant groups.

Dang, on the other hand, deals in spirited virtuosity; his menus are arrestingly playful, confidently flitting between culinary traditions from month to month. Recently he riffed on San Sebastián–inspired pintxos after extensive field research in the Basque Country; tonight it’s “Mom-inspired Vietnamese.” Says Dang: “I always tell my guests about my mom’s dishes, but this is the first time I’ve cooked Vietnamese food professionally. This is the next best thing to flying her over from New York.”

Sitting at TBLS’s classy but casual terrace, overlooking Hong Kong’s snaking Mid-Levels escalator, I’m instantly won over by the amuse bouche: a tender cube of twicecooked pork, with pickled daikon and coriander, that melts gorgeously on the tongue. Next, a brioche with crab-and– foie gras banh mi, served alongside an earthy, bisquey tomato broth flavored with meaty hunks of King crab, proves equally swoon-worthy. But even the stunning courses that follow—tiger prawns in coconut-and-lemongrass broth; sticky rice with pork loin and pork floss—don’t prepare me for the one-two-three punch delivered by the desserts (note the plural). An icy, palate-cleansing slush of sugarcane, mandarin and ginger; a transformative coconut tapioca pudding topped with black-pepper-and-lime-marinated strawberries and creamy banana-coconut-lemongrass sorbet; and then, the pièce de résistance, a macaroon sandwich filled with espresso ice cream that encases a generous dollop of condensed milk. I close my eyes. It’s a cold, crunchy, sticky, chewy, melting Vietnamese coffee. » travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 91

journal restaurants

local flavors From left: TBLS chef-owner Que Vinh Dang; charsiu at Ting Lung Heen, in the Ritz-Carlton; at Tim Ho Wan, Sham Shui Po;

Over at the almost-as-hard-to-book Liberty Private Works, a tiny test kitchen for popular resto-bar Liberty Exchange, new Chinese-Canadian chef Vicky Chen prepares eight omakase courses in front of diners perched at an L-shaped, wood-topped bar. Catering to a maximum of 15, the place offers the experience of a private dinner party; you even bring your own wine. Meanwhile, chalkboardlisted ingredients are lusciously transfigured: pig, mustard transforms into “pig on a stick,” a savory-sweet pork croquette speared with a crispy soba noodle and served with tangy mustard cream, while egg, truffle, caviar, parmesan becomes a truffled egg-yolk raviolo topped with Ossetra caviar; the yolk breaks voluptuously into a lake of parmesan foam, and I soak up every drop with an ovenfresh bread roll that materializes on cue. Remarkably, the most standout course—a wonderfully creamy, gently frothy mango, sago and pomelo foam—is an haute rendering of the cold Chinese dessert soup yeung jee gum lo. I ask the Toronto-trained Chen if he plans to take on more local dishes: “I don’t eat French food. I eat Asian food,” he says.

“But why do Asian food in a city where there’s already so much of it, and it’s all really good? Maybe one day.”

I think of him at Bettys Kitschen, the first ever Hong Kong eatery of native son Alan Yau, whose London culinary empire includes such game-changing restaurants as Wagamama, Hakka-san and Yauatcha. With Bettys, Yau has opted for quirk and unabashed eclecticism based on rustic Tuscan and Provençal fare. Past an entrance flanked with 92 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

wooden market-style shelves bursting with colorful produce, I sit down in the space that was formerly occupied

by Harlans. The André Fu–designed interior is modern yet knowingly playful—transparent-glass bulb pendants; fat bumblebee ceiling fans—and so is the food: a salad of heirloom tomatoes and sumptuous burrata disappears from my plate, while a tender duck confit on a bed of sliced potatoes, presented in a large earthenware pot, hits all the right notes with the help of a whole bulb of roasted garlic.

I’m craving Hong Kong flavors, so I check up on Cantopop, one of this year’s most anticipated openings, just before its launch mid-May. Local celebrity chef Margaret Xu, an advocate of locavore eating, has teamed up with Posto Pubblico duo Todd Darling and Robert Spina, to reimagine the experience of a cha chaan teng, a typical Hong Kong café. The industrial, Pop Art–inspired space certainly looks promising: cozy booths; countertop seating; egg-yolkyellow lamps reminiscent of a wet market; Lichtensteinesque illustrations of giant pineapple buns, egg tarts and bowls of macaroni soup that shout “yummy!” in English and Cantonese through speech bubbles. “We want to make food that’s healthy, delicious and fun,” says Xu, who’s all energy in chef whites and an orange baseball cap. As we sip on delicious cold lai cha—black tea sweetened with light cream rather than the usual evaporated milk—she tells me about the challenges of pushing the boundaries of local cuisine.

“The problem with Hong Kong food is we don’t really know our culinary identity,” she says. “Unfortunately we were

Butao Ramen serves up no more than 200 bowls of ramen a day; chef Margaret Xu, of cha chaan teng–inspired restaurant Cantopop.

colonized by the British. Imagine if it had been the Portuguese—just think of what they eat in Macau.”

I don’t see any problems, however, with Xu’s signature “Lionhead”, a sizzling, surprisingly light meat patty made with hormone-free pork, pickles and water chestnut, or her free-range “chicken and spa egg” noodles, a riff on instant noodles with fried eggs and Spam—a guilty staple of mine after a night out. A juicy salt-baked chicken breast comes topped with scallions and a slow-poached “musical” egg (apparently its mother listened to Mozart), whose yolk melts into a nest of housemade noodles bathed in soulwarming chicken broth. I am thoroughly satisfied.

Soon enough, though, I’m hungry for more of what Hong Kong does best, and I discover that the city’s Chinese restaurants are moving up in the world—literally. I revisit Xiao Nan Guo, a Shanghai chain known for serving outstanding food in pedestrian environments. Last November it unveiled a swanky, Steve Leung–designed dining room on the 10th floor of One Peking—I’m tickled pink by the pan-fried pork-soup buns, perfectly juicy on the inside and with a crisp, sesame-crusted base, and the to-killfor almond-milk pudding, not to mention the panoramic views. In West Kowloon, a high-speed elevator whizzes me up to the newly opened Ritz-Carlton, the world’s tallest hotel, at the top of the 118-floor International Commerce Centre. Whereas many hotels hide their Chinese restaurants in uninspired dining rooms, the Ritz-Carlton’s stunning, high-ceilinged Cantonese eatery, Tin Lung Heen—already

with a two-week waiting list—takes pride of place, alongside Italian restaurant Tosca, on the hotel’s 102nd floor. Its name, which means “dragon in the sky,” rings of a challenge to the superb three-Michelin-starred restaurant Lung King Heen, a “dragon with a view” visible across the water at the Four Seasons. In a dramatic cross-harbor face-off, Tin Lung Heen’s premium dim sum—har gao flecked with gold leaf; siu mai topped with caviar—proves a worthy contender.

Before leaving the city, I consider a trek to Tim Ho Wan’s Mongkok branch, to see firsthand what all the fuss is about.

In the end, I decide against it. I just can’t face the queues. ✚

GUIDE TO HONG KONG DINING Tim Ho Wan 9–11 Fuk Wing St., Sham Shui Po; 852/23322896; lunch for two HK$100.

Queen’s Rd., Central; 852/2857-2007; canto-pop. com; lunch for two HK$170.

Butao Ramen Wo On Building, 8–13 On Lane St., Central; lunch for two HK$190.

Bettys Kitschen IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Podium 2, Central; 852/2979-2100; bettyskitschen.com; brunch for two HK$600.

TBLS 31 Hollywood Rd., 7th floor, Central; 852/25443433; tbls-kitchenstudio. com; dinner for two HK$1,200.

Liberty Private Works 12 Wellington St., third floor, Central; 852/5186-3282; libertypw.com; dinner for two HK$1,100.

Cantopop The L-Place, 139

Xiao Nan Guo @ One Peking One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., 10th floor, Tsim Sha Tsui; 852/2527-8899; lunch for two HK$350.

Tin Lung Heen The RitzCarlton Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd. West, Kowloon; 852/ 2263-2263; ritzcarlton.com; lunch for two HK$500.

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journal check in

A housekeeper ascends the cantilevered main staircase at Ballyfin, in County Laois, central Ireland.

The Manor Born A grand 19th-century Irish estate is restored to its former glory, reopening as a luxurious country house hotel. By Christopher Mason.

Photographed by John Kernick

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journal check in

irish hospitality

From left: The library at Ballyfin; the mansion’s 1826 Neoclassical façade; afternoon tea in the Gold Drawing Room.

S

et in the foothills of the Slieve Bloom mountains in County Laois, 97 kilometers southwest of Dublin, the Neoclassical mansion of Ballyfin was erected in 1826 to trumpet the wealth and prestige of Sir Charles Coote, Premier Baronet of Ireland.

When the Coote family fell on hard times after World War I, the estate was sold for a measly £10,000 and became Ballyfin College, a boys’ school run by Catholic monks who were unable, or disinclined, to manage its upkeep. After decades of neglect, the property was in a pitiful state of disrepair. Delicate plasterwork in the Gold Drawing Room had been destroyed by seeping rainwater when its current owner, Fred Krehbiel, a Chicago-based busi­nessman, first visited in 2000.

After 40-odd years of global peregrinations as an executive at an electronics corporation, Krehbiel had spent countless nights in luxury hotels, and he and his Irish-born wife, Kay, were tempted to dip their toes into the hospitality trade. “I felt it would be interesting and fun to find an old property we could turn into a small hotel,” said Krehbiel, an earnest, square-jawed Midwesterner of Swiss descent, when I paid a visit to Ballyfin last winter, five months before its scheduled opening this past May. As we warmed ourselves

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by the hearth in the Saloon—a butter-yellow reception hall with Corinthian columns and a pair of gilded mirrors de­ signed by Robert Adam and made by Thomas Chippendale— Krehbiel explained that his vision was to “re-create the feeling of staying in a very grand Irish house where comfort is the key ingredient.”

In doing so he appears to have taken to heart the punning family motto of the builder, the ninth bar­onet Coote: Coûte que coûte, or “Cost what it may.” Millions were expended on Bal­lyfin’s lavish restoration—Jim Reynolds, the Irish landscape designer recruited to oversee the entire project, was reluctant to specify a figure. He would acknowl­edge only that the estate was acquired in 2002 for €7 million, a matter of public record. “That’s the only number we re­member,” Reynolds told me in his salty Irish brogue, roaring with laughter at my impertinence for asking about costs. “There never was a budget,” he insisted. “We did what had to be done.”

T

he renovations proved a boon to the local economy, providing employment to more than 200 workers, including visiting specialists. Conserva­tion experts were called in to examine the mansion’s crumbling sandstone façade and determined that 60 percent of the

stone needed to be replaced—a two-year project in itself. A 150-meter-long underground tunnel was installed, running from the estate’s 18th-century stables to the mansion’s basement, so as not to blight the pastoral landscape with commercial ve­hicles. The tunnel helps create the illusion of inhab­iting a paradise unconnected to life’s daily grind.

“The idea was that you lived in an ideal world, free of care and travail,” Reynolds said. “Nothing will go through the front door but the guests and their bags.” The hotel accommodates a total of 29 guests, who are attended to by a full-time staff of 40.

Of the 15 guest rooms and suites, one of the more fanciful is the Westmeath Bedroom, named after Marianne, Countess of Westmeath, whose portrait, by the studio of Sir Thomas Lawrence, hangs above the fire­place. (Her extracurricular exertions in a carriage with the Honourable Augustus Cavendish-Bradshaw inspired one of the most scandalous divorces of the 1790’s.) The room is dominated by a carved French bed with a domed canopy of cream silk tethered to a gilded frame.

Krehbiel invited the current baronet, Sir Christo­pher Coote, to visit Ballyfin, with the hope of learning more about the estate’s history. After seeing the American’s plans to restore the estate, Coote offered to sell Krehbiel 17 of his family portraits so they could again grace the walls of Coote’s ancestral home. The portraits are now installed in the Stair Hall, an ornate space with turquoise walls and a cantilevered staircase. Visitors are met by the flinty stare of the armor-clad Sir Charles (1581–1642), a soldier-adventurer and the first Coote to set foot in Ireland; his “prominent and excellent military service” earned him a baronetcy from James I in 1623. “By all accounts he was the most rapacious and murderous individual,” Reynolds says. “His repu­tation was worse than Cromwell’s.”

Subsequent generations of Cootes were more conge­nial.

In the grand entrance hall is a splendid Roman floor mosaic brought back from a Grand Tour taken by the ninth baronet and his wife, Lady Caroline, a niece of the Earl and Countess of Meath. (No relation, apparently, to the disreputable Countess of Westmeath. However, an­other of Lady Caroline’s uncles was “Buck” Whaley, a notorious gambler, wastrel and anti-Catholic zealot.)

N

NORTHERN IRELAND

Ballyfin’s conservatory, which was dismantled and shipped to England for restoration, above; the Westmeath Bedroom.

IRELAN D Dublin Ballyfin Ballyfin

Irish Sea 0

90 km

D

uring my visit in January, afternoon tea—a sumptuous affair with fruitcake and raspberry jam—was served in the library, a 24-meter-long room with a fireplace at either end. A bow window in the center offered a glorious view of an Italian marble fountain, lined up with the center of the window. When the Krehbiels first saw it, the fountain was almost a meter off center.

“Someone said, ‘You shouldn’t move it. It’s so wonderfully Irish,’ ” Reynolds told me. “But Fred is Swiss,” he added. » travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 97

journal check in

grand details Clockwise from left: A screen in the Saloon; plasterwork detail; a

mosaic in the entrance hall; conservationist John Hart; his restored inlaid floors.

To the left of a fireplace, a hidden door behind a book­ case swings open to reveal the completely unexpected: a spectacular curvilinear glass-and-steel conservatory with Roman statuary, wicker furniture and potted palms.

Neglected by the monks, the frame was severely corroded and had to be dismantled and shipped, piece by piece, to England for restoration. Meryl Long, a recent visitor, remembers her father, Richard Guinness, describing his astonishment at finding bananas growing in the conservatory in the early 1920’s—an almost inconceivable luxury in Ireland at the time.

Alas, Reynolds has no plans to revive the cultivation of bananas. But he has planted a kitchen garden to pro­duce fresh vegetables. And he has introduced free-range chickens to supply eggs. The hotel’s chef, Fred Cordonnier, was previously in charge of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud at the Merrion hotel, Dublin’s only Michelin two-starred restaurant; at Ballyfin he will apply his French technique to the local bounty, whether a porcini risotto with slices of Jerusalem artichoke or ten­der lamb from the Slieve Bloom mountains. “They graze on heather and wildflowers,” says Cordonnier, explain­ing that this gives the meat its delectable flavor.

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A

nd then there are the grounds. Ballyfin sits on 243 hectares, with a lake in front and a network of diverting walkways to a rockery with ferns, all modeled on the style of Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

Activities include boating and fishing on the lake; tennis; bowling; croquet; and bicycling on more than 10 kilometers of paths. For those who wish to venture beyond the property’s 7-kilometer stone-walled perimeter, there is horse trekking in the Slieve Blooms, as well as outings to Birr Castle, with its arbo­retum and gardens, and the Lutyens gardens at Heywood, in Ballinakill. The Heritage golf course, de­signed by Seve Ballesteros, is 20 minutes away.

Will Krehbiel’s spectacular gamble pay off? With Ireland’s economy still in disarray, no doubt Ballyfin will have to look abroad for much of its clientele. That said, the hotel’s central location—halfway between Dublin and Shannon—makes it an ideal stopping point for trav­elers bound from the capital to the southwest coast.

“We’re certainly not going to get a return on our investment,” Krehbiel says, betraying not a hint of regret. ✚ Ballyfin, Co. Laois; 353-57/875-5866; ballyfin.com; doubles from €950, including all meals.

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journal design

West Side Story

With a smart new design hotel set to open this summer, Manhattan’s west Chelsea neighborhood continues its remarkable ascendancy— from derelict wasteland to thriving nexus of art and architecture.

By Karrie Jacobs. Photographed by Emiliano Granado

Arty crossroads Clockwise from top left: Guest rooms at the Hotel Americano have a Japanese flair; the rooms are meant to evoke America in the 50’s and 60’s; a dish at Ovest Pizzoteca; the High Line, central to the neighborhood’s rebirth, crosses West 23rd Street; a rare quiet moment at Bottino, the art world’s de facto canteen; outside Ovest Pizzoteca; Carlos Couturier in the Americano’s lobby.

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T

he Hotel Americano, the first U.S. outpost of the splashy Mexican hotel chain Grupo Habita, recently ma­terialized on Manhattan’s West 27th Street. It’s situated between 10th and 11th ave­nues, at the northern frontier of the Chelsea art district, in the middle of a block best known for its cacophonous, warehouse-scale nightclubs. Why, you might wonder, would anyone want to build a hotel here?

But the unpromising appear­ance of the location is part of the allure. “It’s gritty,” says owner Carlos Couturier, “and I like that grittiness. It feels like what the Meatpacking District was 10 years ago. Very authentic.”

Yes, Way-West-27th is authentic—some of the nearest residents are in a cluster of city-owned housing projects—but here, as elsewhere in Man­hattan, grit is an endangered species. Just down the block from the hotel is the biggest driver of neighborhood transformation. The first section of the High Line—a boldly designed and landscaped strip of public space atop an abandoned elevated freight railway— opened to endless acclaim in 2009; it now draws 2 million visi­tors a year. The second section, run­ning between 20th and 30th streets and dotted with newly planted mag­nolia trees and pussy willows, is set to open this summer, around the same time as the Americano.

All you have to do is look at the buildings that have sprung up along the High Line to understand that Couturier’s hotel, a minimalist slab designed by Mexican architect Enrique Norten, is in precisely the right spot. On nearby blocks you’ll find HL23, an angular 14-story condo tower shoehorned into an impossibly small lot, which muscles its way into the airspace over the High Line; and 245 10th Avenue, a shiny

heap of stainless steel that wraps around a gas station at the corner of 24th Street. At the southern end of the High Line, a new Renzo Piano–designed branch of the Whitney Museum is under con­struction and is scheduled to open in 2015.

“There’s a spot around 17th Street where you can stand and see buildings by Frank Gehry, Jean Nouvel and Shigeru Ban,” says Robert Hammond, the cofounder of Friends of the High Line, the group that saved the railway from demolition.

Actually, what you see is 21st-century Manhat­tan coming into focus—an in­triguing mixture of old and new.

Perhaps the most impres­sive piece of Old New York visible from the High Line is the 1932 Starrett-Lehigh Building, on West 26th Street, a 214,000-square-meter behe­moth renowned for its win­dows, 13 kilometers of them, running like ribbons around its perimeter. Originally designed for industrial use—it has eleva­tors massive enough to carry trucks—the building is now occupied by media, fashion and design compa­nies, including Martha Stewart, Hugo Boss, and Diller Scofidio & Renfro, the design firm that helped transform the High Line into a park. Couturier is betting that the Starrett-Lehigh crowd will embrace the Americano as its club­house, which naturally will make the hotel a mecca for designers everywhere.

From the High Line you catch glimpses of the steel mesh that covers the Hotel Americano’s fa­çade, turning transparent or opaque depending on the angle of the sun. Behind the scrim is a hive of activity, overflowing with Couturier’s ideas about America, New York and the nature of hotels.

Couturier and his partners started by asking themselves: “What was the best time in America?” The answer, they decided—obvious to fans of Mad Men—is the late 1950’s and early 1960’s. That would suggest yet another Midcentury

New in old From left: 200 11th Avenue, designed by Annabelle Selldorf; relaxing

on the High Line; Printed Matter, a shop that sells artist publications, on 10th Avenue.

Opposite, from top: Directors Carol Taveras and Meagan Ziegler-Haynes at F.L.O.A.T. Gallery, on West 22nd Street; the condo tower HL23, which rises above the High Line.

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Modern hotel. But Couturier then hired a Parisian inte­rior designer, Arnaud Montigny, and the concept became: “How would a Frenchman perceive the 50’s and early 60’s in America?” So the furni­ture—vintage pieces picked up in Milan, such as the Sacco, a shiny 1960’s beanbag chair; as well as contemporary pieces, like a pouf by French de­signer Eric Jourdan—isn’t of the Modernist vari­ety routinely found in boutique hotels. The confounding result is that the guest rooms look… Japanese. The style is neither American nor French nor Mexican but “urban ryokan.” A smooth wooden platform, topped with a mattress dressed to resemble a futon, occupies much of the floor space in each of the 56 tiny rooms (the smallest ones are 21 square meters; the largest, 40). A wee built-in desk is outfitted with a 1960’s-style push-button phone, an analog alarm clock by the 1970’s-era Italian designer Joe Colombo, a custom-engraved harmonica, and a bottle of the house-brand mescal. Go figure.

Even the architectural layout of the place is the product of scrambled motives. Couturier thinks the hot-spot hotels devel­oped by his American counter­parts deny their patrons “a certain intimacy.” A party atmosphere may prevent guests from getting a good night’s sleep, and they’re often denied the option of joining in the fun. Couturier recalls checking in to a down­town New York hotel: “I said I would like to go to the rooftop. ‘No, sorry. It’s closed because we have a private event.’ I’d like to go to the bar. ‘No, sorry, you have to book two weeks in advance.’ ” Americano guests, he says, will have unchallenged run of the place, from the diminutive rooftop pool (which will become a hot tub in winter) to the Latininflected French restaurant off the lobby and the two cozy bars in the basement.

Of course, Couturier is also a nightlife con­noisseur, and he intends the Americano to be a magnet for fun. To insulate hotel guests from the din, revelers are transported to the rooftop in a glass-enclosed elevator that runs along the exterior of the building, without stopping on any other floors.

Couturier acknowledges that the Americano, given its location and its quirks, is not for every­one. “This hotel is more for people who know New York well. I don’t think it’s for first-timers.” He’s banking on the hotel having a certain mys­tique, as a “best-kept secret.” But it surely won’t be a secret to the art lovers who flock to the hundreds of nearby galleries. The Americano’s restaurants and bars—even its lobby coffee shop—will no doubt be an immediate draw, for this is the rare Manhattan neighborhood that (even now) has too few places to eat and drink. Just try to get a table at Bottino, the art world’s semi-official cafeteria, on a Thurs­day night, when galleries generally hold their openings.

For now there are a handful of other options. Trestle on Tenth, down the block from Bottino, serves Swiss-inspired cuisine (duck with huckleberries!) with disarming cor­diality.

Lately an inordinate number of tapas bars have opened in

north­western Chelsea, each of them as skinny and crowded as a subway car. (Try Txikito if you actually want to sit down while snacking on pintxos and sipping zurracapote, a Basque variation on sangria.) Until more restaurants arrive, guests at the Hotel Americano might do just as well eating in. Don the soft denim yukata robe hanging in the bath­room, power up the hotel-provided iPad and order room service.

No matter what type of food you order, it will arrive in a bento box.

A few blocks north, at 30th Street, the newest section of the High Line will end with a panoramic view of the West Side Rail Yards, where a 1.2-million-square-meter mixed-use development, Hudson Yards, may one day draw Manhattan’s center of gravity westward.

Robert Hammond points out that people to­day tend to see the High Line as an extension of the West Village and the Meatpacking District.

“But really,” he adds, “in 20 years, most people are going to think of the High Line as part of Hudson Yards.” And in 20 years, West 27th Street may well be an extension of midtown.

The grit will be history. ✚

ADDRESS BOOK STAY Hotel Americano 518 W. 27th St.; 1-212/216-0000; hotel-americano.com; doubles from US$325.

EAT Bottino 246 10th Ave.; 1-212/206-6767; dinner for two US$76.

Ovest Pizzoteca 513 W. 27th St.; 1-212/967-4392; dinner for two US$50.

Txikito 240 Ninth Ave.; 1-212/242-4730; dinner for two US$94.

SEE Bryce Wolkowitz Gallery 505 W. 24th St.; 1-212/2438830.

F.L.O.A.T. Gallery 300 W. 22nd St.; no phone.

Gagosian Gallery 555 W. 24th St.; 1-212/741-1111.

Red Cat 227 10th Ave.; 1-212/242-1122; dinner for two US$75.

Pace Gallery 534 W. 25th St.; 510 W. 25th St.; and 545 W. 22nd St.

Trestle on Tenth 242 10th Ave.; 1-212/645-5659; dinner for two US$75.

Paul Kasmin Gallery 293 10th Ave. and 511 W. 27th St.

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journal essay

making a splash Panoramic views, royal-worthy amenities, antique soaking tubs—these days hotel bathrooms are grabbing the spotlight. Adam Sachs reflects on their innumerable blessings. Plus an album of our favorites from around the globe.

Estancia Vik José Ignacio, Uruguay

I

first fell for Tokyo when I arrived at the Four Seasons Hotel at Marunouchi and read the little sign in my bathroom. “don’t be afraid of our toilet”, the note begged, politely, even a bit reassuringly.

I was far from afraid. I was transfixed, happy. I pressed all the buttons on the toilet, even the ones with the pictures of things I’d never want to have happen or couldn’t really comprehend. When that was done, I drew a bath in the outsize tub at the center of the room, fiddled with the electric shades and dimmers, turned on some hotel music, disgorged all the bath salts and fetched a Cognac from the mini-bar.

Our bathroom rituals are different in hotels than they are at home because the function of that room is altered and enlarged. The home bath is a way station on

C o u r t e s y o f E s ta n c i a V i k

In a nod to the 1,600 hectares of countryside around the hotel in José Ignacio, the smooth wooden walls— and tub—of the Vik Master Suite are built from local jacaranda trees. estanciavikjoseignacio.com.

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FROM T OP : C o u r t e s y o f C . M a d a m o u r / R i t z P a r i s ; C o u r t e s y o f A m a n r e s o r t s ; C o u r t e s y o f C l a r i d g e ’ s H o t e l

the path of the everyday. Traveling, we’re off our routine and in need of comfort, warmth and cleansing.

At a hotel, we check in, get shown the room. Suffer the little song and dance where the por­ter points out the safe and the TV remote and we say aloud “Oh, that’s a TV remote,” and think, Please go. Finally alone, we’ll check the bed for bounce, look for power plugs, do a quick unpack.

But it’s in the bathroom where we really commune with our surroundings: we run all the taps, unwrap the arsenal of try-me toiletries, steam up the place and relax.

There are hotel bathrooms that follow the modern architect’s dictum to bring the out­side in. In Vancouver, I’ve watched seaplanes skimming the blue water below my bath.

In Tanzania, I propped my feet up on the edge of the tub in my hut at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge and looked over my toes as the sun set over the golden bowl of the crater below.

Other rooms take you somewhere else, sug­gesting an idealized past or a super-engi­neered future. I’m thinking of the butler call buttons in the Art Deco baths of Claridge’s, in London, or the tricked-out but beautiful bath­rooms of the Hyatt on the Bund, in Shanghai, where the toilet seats, sensing your proxim­ity, rise in robotic salute.

I don’t know what it is that’s so pleasing about a big, well-appointed bathroom to the needy, travel-weary mind and body. I only know that it upends my aesthetic standards in the same way a splendiferous breakfast spread makes me hungry in the morning, even though I only drink coffee back home. If in New York I’m not much for products, on the road I want a riot of foaming balms and body scrubs, I want anti-stress, anti-jet-lag, time-reversing essential oils. And I want them all freshly replaced every time I leave the room.

I want my loofah, my savon doux, my sewing kit, my shoe mitt and tiny toothpaste tubes, my backlit magnifying mirror and the weird power socket with the funny shavers only label that will charge an iPhone without an adapter.

Give me as many sinks as possible, a hair dryer that blows like holy hell and a hy­dra-headed shower more hydro-jet than rain­fall, and it doesn’t matter what city the hotel happens to be in, I’m in heaven. I tend to picture the actual afterlife as a plush hotel bath­room with infinitely late checkout: clouds of marble and comfy white robes, a halo of flatter­ing light the better to see our freshly scrubbed selves reflected in the fogless mirror. Throw in a television mounted at the foot of a soaking tub and I’m sold.

The trend in recent years has been to super­size and glamorize the hotel bathroom and we (I’m assuming you’re with me on this?) are okay with that. The hotel bathroom is like a spa where you don’t have to see other people, a pro­ verbial vacation from your vacation. It’s the best seat in the house (so why not put a telephone next to that seat, even if nobody has ever figured out what you’re supposed to do with it?). This is the hotel real estate where we’ll spend the »

making a splash

The Ritz Paris

Swan-shaped faucets gilded in genuine gold leaf, lush peach-pink robes, rope cords once used to call for martinis...what else would you expect from the iconic hotel where Coco Chanel once lived? ritz.com.

Amangiri, Utah

The Utah desert is the focus here: all bathrooms have oblong windows that look out onto a 165-million-year-old mesa, the walls are built from sandstone, and amenities are scented with desert sage. amanresorts.com.

Claridge’s, London

Recently renovated by London-based designer David Linley, the mint- and ebony-marble powder rooms pay homage to the 1920’s. claridges.co.uk.

»

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journal essay

Gôra Kadan, Japan

Ever felt like bathing in a Zen garden? Book room No. 702 at Gôra Kadan, a secluded ryokan 104 kilometers south of Tokyo—its open-air soaking tub sources hot water from mineral springs on the hotel grounds. gorakadan.com.

Post Ranch Inn, California

With a private terrace overlooking Big Sur, a Pacific suite’s stainless-steel tub is the perfect spot to take in the sunset. postranchinn.com.

The Mark, New York City

All 161 Art Deco–inspired bathrooms here earn their (marble) stripes with his-and-hers vanities, Bang & Olufsen phones, and in-mirror televisions—complete with waterproof remotes. themarkhotel.com.

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The only thing more ornate than the oval marble bathtub, tasseled velvet curtains and antique frescoes on the ceiling of the Renaissance suites are the soaps and shampoos: local perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi creates them using centuries-old techniques, as well as ingredients such as mignonette flowers and chaulmoogra trees. fourseasons.com.

Four Seasons Hotel Firenze

FROM T OP : K a z u y o s h i M i y o s h i / C o u r t e s y o f G ô r a K a d a n ; K o d i a k G r e e n w o o d / C o u r t e s y o f P o s t R a n c h I n n ; To d d E b e r l e / C o u r t e s y o f T h e M a r k H ot e l . L e f t : S i m o n Wat s o n

making a splash

greatest amount of time awake, where we can wash away the grit of the day and ready our­selves for rest, so we desire bathrooms that are glorious, harmonious, maybe a little bit ridicu­lous and always (forgive me) commodious.

A few nits to pick in this monsoon of praise: Hoteliers, please don’t put a price tag on every­thing. We don’t need to be told that a bathrobe in our suitcase will mean an addition to the bill any more than we need to be reminded that all flights are nonsmoking or you can’t drink the duty-free brandy on the plane. Also: Why is closed now the default mode of the sink drain? Under what circumstances do I need the drain shut tight? And another thing: The little fancy finishing triangle-fold you put on the toilet pa­per? The one you think announces “We’ve thought of everything”? What it actually says to me is, “We were just in here, touching stuff.” For the love of God, leave off the origami. Some­times, when the steam from my hour-long shower has cleared, I find the little notes about how committed you are to saving the planet, one damp towel at a time. That’s sweet. But given the smorgasbord of eco-destructiveness that is the modern hotel bathroom, it’s a bit like leaving a Bible in the bedside table at a whorehouse.

But these are minor quibbles. Hotel bath­rooms, we love you. And, as long as you have a set of clean towels toasting on the warming racks and a replenished stash of amenities, we always will. ✚

making a splash

F r o m T o p : C o u r t e s y o f H y a tt o n t h e b u n d ; C o u r t e s y o f P o n t a D o s G a n c h o s

Hyatt on the Bund, Shanghai

Ponta dos Ganchos, Brazil

BATHRooms with a view From top: Bathing is never dull in the eastern-facing bathrooms at Hyatt on the Bund,

where floor-to-ceiling windows provide unobstructed cityscapes of Pudong skyscrapers across the Huangpu River. hyatt.com. Fronting a calm inlet of the Atlantic, the garapeira-wood retreat in Ponta dos Ganchos’ Especial Vila Esmeralda houses daybeds for wildlife gazing, an infinity-edge lap pool and even a mini-gym; if you prefer a soak to a workout, the whirlpool includes a built-in stereo system. pontadosganchos.com.

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The T+L Editors’ Choice awards our 50 favorite new hotels

Asia

China

h o n g ko n g

Hullett House Sh a n g h a i

Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong

list 2 0 1 1

Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund Waterhouse at South Bund T ib e t

St. Regis Lhasa Resort

India

Hy d e r a b a d

Taj Falaknuma Palace n ag au r

Ranvas

new delhi

c a l i fo r n i a

The Redbury, Hollywood co lo r a d o

Four Seasons Resort Vail f lo r i da

Hotel Beaux Arts Miami h awa i i

Waikiki Edition, Honolulu Ne va da

Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas Ne w yo r k

Trump SoHo, New York City t e xas

Japan

h o k ka i d o

Montage Deer Valley, Park City

Singapore

africa and the middle east

Thailand

Ma r r a k e s h

Green Leaf Niseko Village

ko h sa m u i

W Retreat Koh Samui

Vietnam

u ta h

Morocco

Riad Joya Marrakech Royal Mansour Marrakech

Kenya

co n dao

LOITA HILLS

Six Senses Con Dao

Olarro

australia and New zealand

South Africa

Australia

tas m a n i a

Saffire Freycinet

New Zealand

Ca p e w i n e l a n ds

Babylonstoren st e l l e n b os c h

Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa

qu e e n stow n

United Arab Emirates

Europe

Armani Hotel Dubai One&Only The Palm

Matakauri Lodge

England As cot

Coworth Park Par i s

Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris Shangri-La Hotel, Paris

Germany Berlin

Soho House Berlin

Greece

Me ss i n i a

dubai

Ras A l k h a i m a h

Banyan Tree Al Wadi

Mexico and CENTRAL AND south america Argentina

b u e n os a i r e s

Algodon Mansion

Brazil

b a r r a d e sÃo M i g u e l

Kenoa

Chile

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

San t i ag o

Italy

Mexico

capri

Capri Tiberio Palace Puglia

Borgo Egnazia venice

D o o k P h oto g r a p h Y

United States

Hotel Havana, San Antonio

France

Le Rêve Sa n Mi g u e l d e a l l e n d e

Rosewood San Miguel de Allende

Uruguay

j os É i g n ac i o

Venissa Ristorante Ostello

Playa Vik José Ignacio

Portugal

p u n ta d e l e st e

Vidago Palace

the caribbean

t r Ás - os - m o n t e s

Spain

m aJo r c a

Cap Rocat

The Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa, in Stellenbosch, one of two It List hotels in South Africa this year.

Nars Alaçati

UNITED STATES

Leela Palace Kempinski

Fullerton Bay Hotel

For T+L’s sixth annual It List, we traversed the globe, putting the latest crop of hotels to the test. Here, our 50 favorite new properties, from a pioneering farmstead in South Africa to a sexy Manhattan skyscraper. Read on for this year’s groundbreaking openings.

Turkey

a l aÇ at i

Sweden

sto c k h o l m

Nobis Hotel

Fasano Las Piedras

Jamaica

GoldenEye Hotel & Resort

Puerto Rico v i e que s

W Retreat & Spa – Vieques Island

2 0 1 1

CITY Las Vegas

Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas

Finally, a Vegas hotel for design geeks and food nerds. Guest rooms have Fornasetti wallpaper in the closets, furniture with solid modern lines, a generous soaking tub, C.O. Bigelow toiletries, art you will actually think about and stacks of Phaidon books on the bedside. Venture into the David Rockwell– designed Chandelier bar and to restaurants

by Bromberg Brothers (Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill), Scott Conant (Scarpetta) and José Andrés (Jaleo; China Poblano). 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 1-702/ 698-7000; cosmopolitan lasvegas.com; doubles from US$195.

CITY miami

Hotel Beaux Arts Miami

The latest proof that downtown Miami is heating up? The Beaux Arts, a hotel-within-ahotel on floors 38 to 40 of the JW Marriott Marquis. We’d wager

that the city’s latest star, basketball legend LeBron James, would appreciate the of-themoment tech amenities (an iPad for ordering room service; 55-inch Bang & Olufsen LCD TV’s) and extra-long (and extra-wide) beds.

After a decadent foie gras burger at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne, guests can work off the calories at the NBA-approved basketball court. 255 Biscayne Blvd. Way; 1-305/421-8700; marriott.com; doubles from US$370.

CITY stockholm

Nobis Hotel

Despite a color palette seemingly inspired by the Nordic winter (slate gray; stark white; deep brown), the latest hotel in Stockholm’s central square is far from icy.

Owners Alessandro and Stefano Catenacci’s pioneering Italian restaurant Caina has been reborn in the

Shanghai property offers plenty of reasons to stay put. Topping off Cesar Pelli’s 58-story IFC Shanghai building, the 285-room hotel places you in a cloudlevel fantasy. Guest rooms, with their Art Deco touches, have skyline views from floorto-ceiling windows, Frette linens and bathtubs built for lounging. 8 Century Ave.; 86-21/2020-1818; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RMB2,700.

CITY New York City

Trump SoHo

The Masters of the Universe finally have a proper place to lay their ON THE TO STAY LIST

Clockwise from left: A guest room in ­Manhattan’s Trump SoHo; the lobby of the Nobis in Stockholm; Thailand’s W Koh Samui seen from above.

CITY New Delhi

Leela Palace Kempinski New Delhi

In New Delhi, it’s hard for a hotel to make an impression, so the Leela group decided to deliver in the two areas that matter most: guest rooms (starting at a whopping 48 square meters) and service.

This goes beyond the gentle “Namaste” to accomplishing the nearimpossible (a middle-ofthe-night call to change a morning flight).

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CITY santiago, chile

Le Rêve

Trained to seek out soaring skyscraper hotels in boomtown Santiago, we almost missed this 31-room charmer in a leafy neighborhood. Behind Le Rêve’s scaled-back sensibility is Chileanborn designer Sergio Echeverria, who used classic furnishings (claw-foot velvet settees; historical French maps) to create a residential feel. What sold us were the hotel’s thoughtful touches: delicate local lavender Ôrigen soaps and a help-yourself pantry for late-night cravings. 23 Orrego Luco; 56-2/7576000; lerevehotel.cl; doubles from US$209.

Nobis with a menu of seasonal rustic Italian dishes. For an afterhours splurge there’s the glamorous Gold Bar downstairs, or just turn in: mini-bars in all 201 wood-paneled rooms (designed by Swedish “starchitect” Claesson Koivisto Rune) are stocked with decadent treats such as Taittinger champagne and hemp chocolate. 2 Norrmalm storg; 46-8/614-1000; nobis hotel.com; doubles from Kr2,421.

CITY shanghai

Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong

It’s almost impossible to walk anywhere in frenetic Pudong, so lucky for you that RitzCarlton’s second

heads in downtown Manhattan, thanks to Trump scions Ivanka, Eric and Donald Jr., who picked a fashionable corner some 50 blocks south of Trumpistan for their newest hotel project. Forget gold banisters and marble baths: in SoHo, the color scheme is muted, headboards are puckered Italian leather, sheets are custom-made Bellino, and views span from the Hudson River straight to the Verrazano Bridge. The exotic twist? The city’s first hammam, inspired

by Ivanka’s travels in

t h i s p a g e f r o m f a r l e f t : c o u r t e s y o f w r e t r e a t k o h s a m u i ; C o u r t e s y o f NO b i s H o t e l ; j e s s i c a s a m p l e . o p p o s i t e , c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : C o u r t e s y o f H o t e l B e a u x A r t s M i a m i ; C o u r t e s y o f NO b i s H o t e l ; c o u r t e s y o f s i x s e n s e s c o n d a o ; C o u r t e s y o f L e R Ê v e H o t e l

list

Business travelers will appreciate Leela’s convenient location in the diplomatic district, while the hotel’s four restaurants, including Jamavar, for Indianinspired lobster neeruli, promise to be a hit with both locals and visitors. Chanakyapuri, Diplomatic Enclave; 91-11/3933-1234; theleela. com; doubles from Rs14,999.

BEACH Barra de são miguel, brazil

Kenoa

Istanbul. 246 Spring St.; 1-212/842-5500; trumpsohohotel.com; doubles from US$459.

Rd.; 86-21/6080-2988; waterhouseshanghai. com; doubles from RMB1,350.

CITY shanghai

BEACH jamaica

Shanghai hotels tend toward the vertical and voluptuous, but one look at this austere lobby—exposed brick walls; steel beams; stone floors—and it’s clear the Waterhouse has broken the mold. The 19-room hotel is housed in a lowslung 1930’s warehouse on the southern part of the city’s iconic Bund promenade. Guest rooms blend rough concrete ceilings with blond-wood floors, while Huangpu River– facing windows flood them with natural light.

No. 1-3 Bldg., Maojiayuan

This property on the northern coast of Jamaica has quite a pedigree: in the 1940’s, Ian Fleming built a villa on a hidden cove to write his James Bond novels and entertain visitors including Noël Coward and Errol Flynn.

Now owner Chris Blackwell has transformed Golden Eye into a small but stylish resort. With only 11 cottages and six suites along a white-sand beach and secluded lagoon, the vibe is as exclusive as it was in Fleming’s day and the guest list just as impressive (was that Beyoncé and Jay-Z hanging out at the waterfront Bizot bar?).

Oracabessa, St. Mary; 876/975-3354; goldeneye.com; doubles from US$448.

Waterhouse at South Bund

GoldenEye Hotel & Resort

It was risky for engineer Pedro Marques to quit his career to open a 23-room eco-retreat on a sleepy beach along Brazil’s Alagoan coast, north of Bahia. But the gamble has paid off in spades. The hotel wows with eucalyptus columns and natural wood and brick interiors, all of which reinforce the indooroutdoor aesthetic that sets the retreat apart.

Environmental responsibility is emphasized: staffers are versed in conservation techniques to avoid disturbing the nearby preserve. Rua Escritor Jorge de Lima, 58 Barramar; 55-82/32721285; kenoaresort.com; doubles from R$1,020.

types of local honey.

Navarino Dunes, Costa Navarino; 30-272/3096000; romanoscosta navarino.com; doubles from €330.

BEACH Con Dao, Vietnam

Six Senses Con Dao

Sybarites in search of Southeast Asia’s next great escape are heading to Con Dao Island, where Six Senses has upped the ante on luxury. Just a 45-minute flight south of Ho Chi Minh City, 50 minimalist villas on a pristine southern coast are constructed in blond wood. Canopy beds are draped in gauzy fabric, while bathrooms have enormous sea-facing windows. Time moves slowly here, from the first steaming bowl of pho at breakfast to a dip

morning Thai boxing classes to midnight mojitos at WooBar. Seeking serenity?

The resort occupies a coveted peninsula on Samui’s quiet northern coast. While the lure of the beach may be hard to resist, guest rooms offer plenty of watery temptations as well: all of the 75 glass-walled villas have private pools, and the best offer

BEACH messinia, greece

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

A onetime stomping ground for ancient Greek royalty, the white-sand beaches of Messinia, in the Peloponnese region, are about to have their second heyday. The 321-room Romanos is the first of an ecoconscious, four-resort development named Costa Navarino. The whitewashed, 130-hectare property, virtually invisible from the beach alongside it, has a golf course that’s irrigated with rainwater, and 80 percent of the property will operate on solar power by 2012.

Not that the Romanos isn’t about indulging: each of the 32 lightfilled suites has a private pool, and the breakfast spread includes five

TOP RETREATS Clockwise from top left: L’Atelier, the private lounge at the Hotel Beaux Arts Miami; the Nobis Hotel in Stockholm; a sweep of Vietnamese beach at the Six Senses Con Dao; the entrance to Le Rêve, in Santiago, Chile.

Denotes a Great Value (rate of US$250 or less)

in your private oceanfront plunge pool—it’s the perfect place to spend the afternoon while listening for calls from macaques in the jungle. Dat Doc Beach; 84-64/383-1222; sixsenses.com; doubles from US$600.

shimmering Gulf of Thailand views. 4/1 Moo 1 Tambol Maenam; 6677/915-999; whotels. com; doubles from Bt24,500.

BEACH Koh Samui, Thailand

We loved every sunsoaked minute at W’s first Caribbean foray, a whimsical space by Spanish design superstar Patricia Urquiola. Set within a series of low-slung beachfront structures, polished cement floors contrast with bright patterns; many private terraces overlook two infinity pools. The hushed, spare-yet-sexy

W Retreat Koh Samui

Bringing a long-lacking dose of mod design and youthful exuberance to this ever-popular Thai resort island, W Hotels’ first “Retreat” property in Southeast Asia hews to the brand’s urbane aesthetic. Fans of the cheeky W formula will find all the requisite diversions, from

BEACH vieques, puerto rico

W Retreat & Spa – Vieques Island

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2 0 1 1

spa, with alfresco showers fringed by palm trees, completes the picture. Km 3.2, State Rd. 200; 787/741-4100; whotels.com; doubles from US$589.

first-time guest feel entirely at home. 1647 Montevideo; 54-11/35307777; algodonmansion. com; doubles from US$640.

DESIGN buenos aires

Algodon Mansion

B.A.’s splashiest new hotel is also its most intimate: with just 10 suites, the Algodon occupies a landmarked 1912 townhouse in the well-heeled enclave of Recoleta. Within, a relaxed air of privilege prevails—from the clubby bar, all smoky cognacs and leather, to the breezy rooftop pool deck. Suites are a study in subtle elegance, with marble-and–limestone baths and Guayacan wood floors. While the in-house restaurant doesn’t yet measure up, the gracious service— that includes 24-hour butlers, and an amiable and savvy concierge staff—can make even a

DESIGN maJorca, spain

Cap Rocat

DESIGN dubai, u.a.e.

Armani Hotel Dubai

Hyperbole is doomed in Dubai, where overthe-moon excess is as everyday as the caravans of Bentleys that cruise the city’s 12-lane superhighway.

In the Burj Khalifa—the world’s tallest building— Italy’s billionaire fashion kingpin Giorgio Armani made his April 2010

With its preening summer crowds and throbbing nightlife, Majorca is a place to be seen. But if you’re looking to go off the radar, there’s Cap Rocat, set in a 19th-century former military fortress along the southern edge of the Bay of Palma.

Local architect Antonio Obrador imbued the hotel with cues that hark back to its past (guest rooms built in former munitions stores; stylized bullets for door handles). Add private terraces furnished with all-weather canopy beds, an infinity pool,

GOOD LOOKS Clockwise from top right: Shanghai’s Waterhouse at South Bund; inside GoldenEye, in Jamaica; a Lagoon cottage at GoldenEye; an oceanfront Deluxe villa at Six Senses Con Dao, in Vietnam; Brazil’s Kenoa resort; the restaurant at the Romanos, in Greece.

112 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

and easy access to the bathwater-warm Mediterranean for sailing, diving and waterskiing excursions, and this island getaway certainly hits the spot.

Cap Rocat; 34-971/747878; caprocat.com; doubles from €600.

Via Croce; 39-081/9787111; capritiberiopalace. it; doubles from €550.

DESIGN san antonio, texas

Hotel Havana

When Liz Lambert opened Austin’s San

DESIGN Capri, Italy

Capri Tiberio Palace

This stylish setting on the Gulf of Naples can be a bit of a scene,

which is exactly what makes the centrally located—yet oh-sotranquil—Capri Tiberio Palace a welcome addition. Fashion designer turned architect Giampiero Panepinto’s soothing pastel-hued interiors are decorated with eye-catching polka-dot wingback chairs and inlaid majolica floors, and most of the 60 guest rooms overlook the Mediterranean.

But if getting yourself down to the shore is just too much, lounge by the mosaic-lined indoor-outdoor pool, hang out in the spa stocked with Sodashi products, or arrange a candlelit dinner at Terrazza Tiberio. 11-15

José and St. Cecilia, she almost single-handedly revived two fledgling neighborhoods. Now the Texas pioneer has set her sights on San Antonio, breathing new life into a grand Mediterranean Revival castle on a wooded stretch of the Riverwalk district. The 27-room Hotel Havana’s tuftedvelvet recamiers and club chairs and hectares of dark Bastrop-pine floors create a breezy colonial feel. And it’s no surprise that the hotel’s bar—with red votives and dark, bordello-like nooks—is a top spot for a nightcap. 1015 Navarro St.; 1-210/222-2008; havanasanantonio.com; doubles from US$185.

DESIGN paris

Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris The Philippe Starck– designed Royal Monceau, housed in

C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p r i g h t : M o r g a n & Ow e n s ; JE s s i c a S a m p l e ( 2 ) ; A n d r e a F a z z a r i ; C o u r t e s y o f K e n o a R e s o r t ; c o u r t e s y o f s t a r w o o d h o t e l s & r e s o r t s .

O p p o s i t e , c l o c k w i s e f r o m b o tt o m l e f t : J a v i e r P i e r i n i ; C o u r t e s y o f St a r w o o d H o t e l s & RE s o r t s ; T h o m a s L o o f ; C o u r t e s y o f C a p r i T i b e r i o P a l a c e

list

debut as a hotelier with a 160-room property that thumbs its nose at virtually everything that is Dubai. Think sleek and understated, greige and beige, beds topped with bespoke fabrics, and bathrooms lined with smooth Eramosa marble floors. Still, the hotel isn’t completely free of over-the-top touches: a fleet of Maserati Quattroportes and Range Rovers will whisk you around the city, and “lifestyle managers” are at your disposal from the moment you arrive to the moment you depart. 1 Emaar Blvd.; 971-4/888-3888; armanihotels.com; doubles from US$735.

a 1928 palace hotel a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomphe, is like nothing you’ve ever seen in the City of Light.

All 149 guest rooms are designed to feel like a Parisian friend’s piedà-terre, with framed photographs leaning haphazardly against the walls, a strand of pearls seemingly left behind on a table and a custombuilt acoustic guitar in the corner of the room (go ahead, strum away within the soundproof walls). Downstairs, the lobby is filled with contemporary art and the city’s beau monde, making the Royal Monceau the epicenter of cool in Paris. 37 Ave. Hoche, Eighth Arr.; 33-1/4299-8800; leroyalmonceau.com; doubles from €780.

DESIGN josÉ ignacio, uruguay

Playa Vik José Ignacio Uruguay’s rustic fishing village turned boho hot spot José Ignacio is giving nearby Punta del Este a run for its money with an influx of chic hotels. With this

Modernist beachfront compound, a follow-up to Estancia Vik (It List 2009), collectors Alex and Carrie Vik filled the six limestone casitas (all with floor-to-ceiling windows), four suites, and public spaces with museum-worthy rarities from international art stars such as Anselm Kiefer and James Turrell.

The focal point of the property—an architectural departure for the destination—is an elevated infinity pool with the best sunset views in town.

598/9460-5212, playavik.com; doubles from US$750.

DESIGN hollywood

The Redbury

Sam Nazarian’s latest L.A. opening has all the buzz expected of his club-centric SBE brand.

Yet with its apartmentstyle suites, the Redbury is more functional than big sister SLS. Creative director and Rolling Stone magazine photographer Matthew Rolston appointed the 57 spacious “flats” with vintage turntables and rock posters in homage to the hotel’s prime location opposite Capitol Records; if the framed photos of Hendrix and Monroe aren’t enough to drive the celeb-centric culture home, the paparazzi lingering outside are a reminder that you are, indeed, in Tinseltown.

1717 Vine St.; 1-323/9621717; theredbury.com; doubles from US$299.

nods to, rather than avalanches of, Moroccan-isms. At once austere and warm, seven suites with handcrafted beds and chaise longues face an atrium with olive trees. Though small in size, the riad is brilliantly full-service, with a staff—butlers, drivers, guides—on call for spa treatments, shopping excursions and trips to Essaouira. 26-27 Hay Mouassine, Derb El Hammam; 212-524/391624; riadjoya.com, doubles from MAD2,200.

DESIGN san miguel de allende, mexico

Rosewood San Miguel de Allende

For its first city resort in Mexico, Rosewood looked to San Miguel’s history to create a colonial-era hacienda where every corner reveals local artisans’ work: cantera stone in patios and colonnades; curled bedposts and ornate tin mirror frames in 67 guest rooms. The

farm-to-table menu at 1826 Restaurant makes a flavor-packed locavore statement, while the Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar’s flight of margaritas —mango, hibiscus and tamarind—pays homage to the vibrant hues of the city’s iconic doorways. 11 Diez Nemesio; 52-415/152-9700; rosewoodhotels.com; doubles from US$325.

DESIGN berlin

Soho House Berlin

For years, Berlin’s highend hotels just weren’t cool. That all changed with Soho House, the London-based members’ club, providing Berlin with a welcome dose of English eccentricity and becoming the overnight

DESIGN marrakesh, Morocco

Riad Joya Marrakech

A team of Italian hoteliers is the reason this labor of love in the medina’s Mouassin quarter gives subtle

Style icons Clockwise from right: A suite at the Capri Tiberio Palace, in Capri, Italy; the Belle Époque façade of Buenos Aires’s Algodon Mansion; one of two infinity pools at W Retreat & Spa – Vieques Island, in Puerto Rico; a guest room at Armani Hotel Dubai, in the world’s tallest tower, Burj Khalifa.

Denotes a Great Value (rate of US$250 or less)

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list choice for the art and fashion set. The restored Bauhaus building bordering the über-hip Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg neighborhoods has 40 guest rooms with wood floors and Midcentury antiques.

The lounge, with its red velvet sofas, has become one of the German capital’s hottest nightspots (business travelers beware: club rules forbid men’s neckties). 1 Torstrasse; 49-30/405-0440; sohohouseberlin.com; doubles from €140.

DESIGN Honolulu

Waikiki Edition

Hospitality heavyweight Ian Schrager’s latest project, a collaboration with Marriott Hotels dubbed Edition, is breathing new life into the 84-year-old hotel chain. The 353-room Waikiki Edition, designed by New York– based Yabu Pushelberg, is the first of a series (Istanbul, Barcelona, Mexico City, Miami Beach and London are in the works). Interiors are an exercise in

restraint, with a color palette that stretches from white to vanilla, beige to sand, and accents ranging from natural leather bands on the desk chairs to the dark-stained-wood rolling shutters that abate the Hawaiian sun.

1775 Ala Moana Blvd.; 1-808/943-5800; editionhotels.com; doubles from US$375.

RESORT ras al khaimah, U.A.E.

Banyan Tree Al Wadi Camel rides? Check.

Sand dunes? Check.

Private pools? Check.

The new Banyan Tree Al Wadi—tucked into the desert and a 45-minute drive from Dubai—is a daydreamer’s oasis. Set on 100 hectares, 60 of which are a nature preserve, 101 villas blend regional design elements (bedouin-style tented ceilings) with Far Eastern service touches (the spa specializes in Thai massages). We rose early for a tour of the honey-colored landscape and returned to dine at the resort’s Al Waha restaurant while spotting wild gazelles through the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows. Al Mazraa; 971-7/206-7777; banyantree.com; doubles from AED2,225.

RESORT puglia, italy

Borgo Egnazia

Though this blindingwhite stone monolith looks as ancient as the fortified farmhouses that surround it, sprawling Borgo Egnazia is actually brand-new. Rooms are monochromatic, splicing luxe (limestone double sinks; wide shaded terraces) with unexpected design moments (single olive branches in lieu of flowers). Twin pools are lounge-worthy and huge; if only management would

designate one of them exclusively for adults.

Savelletri di Fasano; 39-080/225-5000; borgoegnazia.com; doubles from €320.

RESORT vail, colorado

Four Seasons Resort

Pulling off a new resort within this compact alpine village was no easy feat. But while the footprint of the Four Seasons is relatively modest, the hotel is anything but. The ground floor is home to a 1,300-square-meter spa, as well as the hotel’s centerpiece: a heated, 23-meter-long saltwater pool around which the 121 guest rooms are arranged.

Public spaces reflect a restrained mountainchic aesthetic (studded leather chairs are in; antlers are out). But what ultimately sets the Four Seasons apart are high-altitude extras: walk-in closets to handle

spreads for sybarites Clockwise from left: Le Royal

Monceau’s La Cuisine restaurant, in Paris; espresso at the Royal Monceau; Playa Vik José Ignacio, in Uruguay; breakfast at Hotel Havana, in San Antonio.

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c l o c k w i s e f r o m b o tt o m l e f t : R o b e r t o F r a n k e n b e r g ( 2 ) ; C r i s t o b a l P a l m a / C o u r t e s y o f P l a y a V i k J o s é I g n a c i o ; M a l u A lv a r e z . O p p o s i t e , C l o c k w i s e f r o m T o p l e f t : C o u r t e s y o f R i a d J o y a ; D a v e L a u r i d s e n ; L i n n y MO r r i s ; C o r a l V o n Z u m w a l t ; C o u r t e s y o f B a n y a n T r e e

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bulky ski gear; free hand warmers at the slopeside ski club; and an armoire filled with heated robes by the central, outdoor pool.

1 Vail Rd.; 1-970/4778600; fourseasons.com; doubles from US$675.

top spots Clockwise

RESORT Singapore

Fullerton Bay Hotel

Singapore’s mammoth Marina Bay Sands casino complex may be the city’s most talked-about debut, but the real gem is hidden in its shadow across the bay. The 100room Fullerton Bay Hotel, with spaces by rising design star Andre Fu, occupies a historic 1930’s pier. Handsome rooms are kitted up in rosewood, leather and chrome, with terraces maximizing views of the city skyline or the Marina Bay. Outsize chandeliers and mosaic

Champalimaud styled the 200 guest rooms, which all have Eames chairs and picture windows facing either Hokkaido’s striking Mount Yotei or the tree-dotted countryside.

Hanging on the walls are original prints by artist Soichiro Tomioka, whose winter landscapes rival the views outside. Not to be missed: a dip in the onsen after a day on skis. Higashiyama-onsen, Niseko-cho, Abutagun; 81-136/443-311; thegreenleafhotel.com; doubles from ¥24,590, including breakfast and dinner.

facing the central pool, which is rimmed by palm trees, reminiscent of Moorish and Andalusian water gardens. There’s a firstrate spa, and rooms with sweeping views of the beach and the marina— and, yes, those buildings you really don’t see.

West Crescent, The Palm Jumeirah; 971-4/ 440-1010; oneandonly resorts.com; doubles from AED3,225.

RESORT park city, utah

RESORT tasmania, australia

The Montage hotel group put its luxury stamp on the slopes with the opening of its 220-room mega-lodge last December. Easy access to three highspeed chairlifts, plus memorable après-ski: a roaring fire in the lounge and regular appearances

by Monty, the hotel’s friendly Bernese mountain dog. 9100 Marsac Ave.; 1-435/6041300; montagedeer valley.com; doubles from US$845.

A holiday in Tasmania may feel like a trip to the end of the earth.

A reward for the long journey? The Saffire Freycinet, Tasmania’s first world-class retreat.

Spread across 4.5 lush hectares, it is a reimagination of a beachfront shack, with an aesthetic that takes full advantage of the area’s natural beauty.

Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the craggy Hazards mountain range, while light-filled living rooms face Great Oyster Bay. Indulgent touch: each guest receives a treatment at the spa.

2352 Coles Bay Rd., Coles Bay; 61-3/62567888; saffire-freycinet. com.au; doubles from A$1,450.

Montage Deer Valley

Italian marble tiles create a glittering effect in the lobby, while Lantern, the slinky rooftop bar, is the place to be seen. 80 Collyer Quay; 65/6333-8388; fullertonbayhotel.com; doubles from S$450.

RESORT Hokkaido, Japan

Green Leaf Niseko Village

If you’re looking for Hokkaido’s worldfamous powder, the ski-in, ski-out Green Leaf, on Japan’s north island, couldn’t provide a softer landing. New York designer Alexandra

from left: the Dar Arabe Suite at Riad Joya Marrakech; rooftop views at Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, in Mexico; the Sunrise pool at the Waikiki Edition; a suite at the Redbury, in Hollywood; Banyan Tree Al Wadi, near Dubai.

RESORT dubai, U.A.E.

One&Only The Palm

You could be anywhere in the world of luxury island resorts, but in fact this modern Arabian fantasy is located at one end of the crescent that tops the man-made extravaganza of the Palm Jumeirah. One of the great pleasures is breakfast on the terrace

Saffire Freycinet

long traded comfort for cultural enlightenment.

No longer: the St. Regis Lhasa has set a new benchmark. Whitewashed facades and large red pillars in the lobby mirror the local architecture, while the 162 guest rooms have hand-carved, latticewood furniture and photos depicting local daily life. Green features such as solar panels minimize the hotel’s carbon footprint, and the staff—even with the occasional language glitch—lets Tibetan warmth shine through.

22 Jiang Su Rd.; 86891/680-8888; stregis. com; doubles from RMB2,150.

RESORT venice

Venissa Ristorante Ostello

The ace in Venissa’s pocket is its location on the remote Mazzorbo island—not to mention its star chef in the kitchen. Six guest rooms mix rustic elements with Italian haute design (colorful Driade rugs; light fixtures by Artemide). There’s no mini-bar, but it’s a small price to pay when you have Paola Budel

downstairs. Budel is among Italy’s top chefs.

Try her pan-fried lagoon eel with broccoli cream made with ingredients from Venissa’s gardens.

3 Fondamenta S. Caterina; 39-041/5272281; venissa.it; doubles from €107.

RESORT Trás-Os-Montes, Portugal

Vidago Palace

Northern Portugal’s dramatic Douro Valley wine region now has a resort to match. Vidago Palace, an hour’s drive northeast of historic Porto, is located in a Belle Époque mansion

RESORT Lhasa, Tibet

St. Regis Lhasa Resort Travelers to Tibet have

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list PRESERVATION Nagaur, india

Ranvas

with 70 guest rooms decorated with Portuguese embellishments (hand-loomed rugs; traditional cement tiles). Vidago is an ancient spa town with famed natural springs, and the resort takes advantage of those mineral-rich waters in its spa. Parque de Vidago, Vidago; 351-276/990920; vidagopalace.com; doubles from €112.

PRESERVATION hong kong

Hullett House

In a city that prizes all things modern, Hullett House gives a nod to the past. At the tip of Tsim Sha Tsui—not far from the high-end retail

shops that line Canton Road—a colonnaded 19th-century building that once served as a marine police headquarters has been transformed into a 10-suite hotel. Half of the guest rooms (the smallest of which is 75 square meters) riff on a different era in China, whether it’s Shanghai Art Deco or the country’s edgy 21stcentury art scene (a triptych of Chairman Mao blowing bubble gum). The coup de grâce? Views of Hong Kong’s skyline from each suite’s balcony. 2A Canton Rd., Kowloon; 852/3988-0000; doubles from HK$4,284.

Deep within a sprawling fourth-century fort near Jodhpur, 10 mansions that once belonged to a maharajah’s wives have been restored to create one of the region’s most stylish new retreats.

Sandstone havelis with courtyards—many have hand-carved wooden swings—house 34 rooms and suites with latticed jharoka screens and Rajasthani textiles in shades of crimson, tangerine and indigo.

Moss-covered pathways lead to a dining pavilion and a pool flanked by daybeds, and after sunset, the property is illuminated with hundreds of clay diya candles. Ahhichatragarh Fort, Gandhi Chowk; 91-291/257-2321; jodhanaheritage.com; doubles from Rs7,500.

PRESERVATION marrakesh, morocco

Royal Mansour Marrakech

The cliché “fit for a king” has never rung truer than at the Royal Mansour. A personal project of His Royal Highness King Mohamed VI of Morocco, the property showcases his country’s craftsmanship, so much so that the hotel’s opening was allegedly delayed until every detail was approved by the palace. It was worth the wait: the 53 oneto four-bedroom riads are arranged around medina-style streets and palm-filled plazas with reflecting pools. Each riad has multiple patios,

silk-paneled salons and bedrooms, and a staff that uses a network of underground passages.

Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti; 212-529/808-080; royalmansour.com; riads from US$2,360.

PRESERVATION paris

Shangri-La Hotel, Paris It wasn’t the

coveted location near

the Seine, nor was it our Pierre-Yves Rochon– designed guest room with a stone terrace and French doors, or even our evening bath with a vista of the Eiffel Tower.

What won us over at the 81-room Shangri-La was the pitch-perfect service, whether we needed directions to the nearby Musée d’Art Moderne, one more flaky croissant in the morning or a last-minute late checkout. With all its polish and pedigree, the seasoned Asian hotel group’s European debut is an instant classic. 10 Ave. d’Iéna, 16th Arr.; 33-1/53671998; shangri-la.com; doubles from €725.

PRESERVATION hyderabad, india

Taj Falaknuma Palace

NEW CLASSICS Clockwise from left: Babylonstoren’s Babel restaurant, in Cape Winelands, South Africa; one of 20 suites at Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund; Hong Kong’s colonial-style Hullett House; shaking it up at the Royal Mansour bar in Marrakesh.

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done up in ivories and golds. Wander the property if you like: nothing is off limits, including the library of rare books. Adding to the fairy-tale setting, at sunset you’ll hear the lilting strains of a flute in the courtyard. Engine Bowli, Falaknuma; 9140/6629-8585; tajhotels. com; doubles from Rs18,000.

PRESERVATION shanghai

Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund

It’s not easy to stand apart in Shanghai’s booming hotel scene, which is why Waldorf Astoria pulled out all the stops for its China debut. On the Bund’s southern tip, 20 suites with four-poster beds and marble baths occupy a 1911 building that housed the Shanghai Club, a hangout for colonial-era gentlemen. In the lobby, Neoclassical details, such as marble floors and a steel birdcage elevator, have been restored. The newly built, 252-room Waldorf Astoria Tower has all the modern comforts you’d

Denotes a Great Value (rate of US$250 or less)

f r o m t o p : D e r r y c k M e n e r e / C o u r t e s y o f W a l d o r f A s t o r i a S h a n g h a i ; c o u r t e s y o f h u l l e tt h o u s e ; J o h n K e r n i c k ; D o o k P h o t o g r a p h y. o p p o s i t e c l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p l e f t : G r a c i e l a C a tt a r o s s i ; C o u r t e s y o f t h e F u l l e r t o n B ay H o t e l ; C o u r t e s y o f B o r g o E g n a z i a ; C o u r t e s y o f R a n va s at N a g a u r

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You’ll trade your car for a horse and carriage at the gate of the Taj Falaknuma Palace, which crowns a hill above the city, and be showered with rose petals when you ascend the marble steps. After a 10-year restoration, this former palace of the Nizam of Hyderabad (once the world’s richest man) is now a living museum, with 60 opulent guest rooms

expect—from walk-in closets to electric Japanese toilets. No. 2, Zhong Shan Dong Yi Rd.; 86-21/6322-9988; waldorfastoria.com; doubles from RMB4,000.

RUSTIC Cape Winelands, south africa

Babylonstoren

This rambling 17thcentury Cape Dutch– style farm estate in the Cape Winelands is no rough-and-ready dude ranch. Rehabilitated

by Afrikaans designerowner Karen Roos, 14 guest rooms in three traditional landhuises (cottages) have been done up with vintage beds, Victorian clawfoot tubs, and chic, allwhite sofas and rugs.

For gourmands, some cottages offer kitchens —glassed-in cubes facing a garden from which you can pick your own herbs, fruits and vegetables, the same produce used by the chefs at the restaurant, Babel. Klapmuts Rd.; 27-21/863-3852; babylonstoren.com; doubles from R3,950.

RUSTIC ascot, england

Coworth Park

The Dorchester Collection’s Coworth Park is a country-house hotel for the 21st

rooms are decorated with vintage rugs from Marrakesh and Turkish antiques, and toiletries are made with oil from the owner’s family’s olive trees. 23A Alaçati Köy Meydani; 90232/716-0900; narshotels.com; doubles from T£250.

Global gems Clockwise

from above: A bungalow at Fasano Las Piedras, in Punta del Este, Uruguay; the entrance to Singapore’s Fullerton Bay Hotel; a pool at Borgo Egnazia, in Puglia, Italy; smart staffers near Ranvas, outside Jodhpur. century—a reinvented Georgian manor with polo ponies on both the lawn and the embroidered linens, and copper bathtubs within view of retractable flatscreen TV’s. Blacknest Rd.; 44-1344/876-600; coworthpark.com; doubles from £215.

RUSTIC punta del este, uruguay

Fasano Las Piedras

For those who dream about a South American Grand Tour: after São Paulo and Buenos Aires, your next stop should be Punta del Este, the setting of the Fasano Hotel Group’s first resort outside of Brazil. This spa retreat, near a white-sand beach that is busy during the peak summer season (December and January), is a quiet respite throughout the year. The estancia is done up with cowhide walls and sheepskin rugs, and 32 guest casas all face a bird-filled estuary and pine forest.

La Barra; 598-42/670000, fasano.com.br; doubles from US$600.

RUSTIC stellenbosch, south africa

Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa

British diamond jeweler Laurence Graff’s sprawling 10-lodge estate adds a touch of

RUSTIC Loita Hills, kenya

Olarro

sex appeal to the usually sedate Cape Winelands.

A glass-walled wine cellar in the lobby is flanked on one side by a wine lounge with a fireplace and on the other by a supper club designed by London interiors guru David Collins. He also gets kudos for the standalone suites, each with walls of grass cloth and polished plaster, and the butlers’ kitchens.

Helshoogte Pass; 27-21/ 885-8160; delaire.co.za; doubles from R7,350.

RUSTIC alaÇati, turkey

Nars Alaçati

Don’t be fooled by its modest stone façade.

The newest hotel to arrive in Alaçati, the Istanbul elite’s getaway on the Aegean Sea, does away with the area’s quaint cookiecutter aesthetic in favor of character and verve.

Set in a pair of 19thcentury manses, seven

With a silent partner like Paul Allen backing Olarro, it’s no wonder this hillside lodge overlooking the Masai Mara is becoming Kenya’s next hideaway.

Designer Anthony Russell has worked his magic on the seven thatched cottages and a two-bedroom villa: the tiled floors resemble giraffe markings and the billowing fabric ceilings give the feel of a tented camp (without having to unzip your door).

263-13/42527; olarro kenya.com; doubles from US$1,370. ✚

RUSTIC queenstown, new zealand

Matakauri Lodge

It’s no wonder hedgefunder turned hotelier Julian Robertson chose a secluded South Island spot for his family’s third hotel, Matakauri Lodge, the latest sibling to the Farm at Cape Kidnappers and the Lodge at Kauri Cliffs.

The property is ideal for adventurers in search of a luxury lodge near the popular base of Queenstown. The 11 large, timber suites, decorated in rust, orange and cream by native design doyenne Virginia Fisher, feature walk-in closets, open fireplaces and the requisite mountain vistas. 569 Glenorchy Rd.; 64-3/441-1008; matakauri.co.nz; doubles from NZ$595.

Edited by Jennifer Flowers, Niloufar Motamed and Sarah Spagnolo. Written by Christine Ajudua, Richard Alleman, J.D. Banks, Vinita Bharadwaj, Paul-Henry Bizon, Laura Begley Bloom, Kimberly Bradley, Jennifer Chen, Anthony Dennis, Mark Ellwood, Amy Farley, Erin Florio, Eleni Gage, Charles Gandee, Farhad Heydari, Sarah Horne, Howie Kahn, David Kaufman, Paul Kay, Sarah Khan, Christopher Kucway, Ted Lee, Peter Jon Lindberg, Ralph Martin, Mario R. Mercado, Elizabeth Minchilli, Shane Mitchell, Douglas Rogers, Adam Sachs, Antonella Salem, Laura Teusink, Valerie Waterhouse and Stephen Whitlock.

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TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA

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Road to the Past En route to Kengtung, Robert Turnbull discovers some timeless scenes in a remote corner of Burma, though the journey isn’t without modern hassles Ph o t o g r a p h e d by A n g e l a S r i s o mw o n g w a t h a n a

On the winding road to Kengtung.

Opposite: Inside Wat Baan Saan.

I

’m not sure what I’ve done to deserve it, but the border guard at Tachileik fixes me with a glare most people would reserve for an unwelcome rogue. I feel distinctly uncomfortable. An immigration official has disappeared with my passport to declare that I won’t be leaving without a “guide”—at an obligatory daily fee of 1,000 Thai baht. This is a problem. From Bangkok I’d already contacted U Sai Lon, known simply as Paul, a local expert recommended by Rangoon friends. He was to drive the four hours from Kengtung in the heart of the Golden Triangle to pick me up at the Thai–Burmese border crossing. Instead, I’ve been allocated a sulky teenager in an oversize Great Gatsby cap.

“Where are you from?” he asks.

“England,” I reply.

“Oh, so you live in New York?”

That is the extent of our talk. Only if I ignore him, I figure, will he back off, leaving me with Paul as a guide. Question after question falls on my deaf ears. As our bus lurches between checkpoints, past banners pronouncing let us eradicate the scourge of drugs, his legs start shaking irritably under an immigration dossier perched on his lap. A file about me. At the first stop, he follows me idiotically to the wooden apology for a toilet. At the second, he stays in the coach to fiddle with his phone. My plan starts working.

At first we pass timeless Asian scenes, thatched huts with scorched yards and pickup trucks covered in fine layers of dust. Children wend their way to school along the roadside oblivious to the chaotic traffic. As we start climbing, a landscape of tea plantations and hilltop gold pagodas comes into view, gradually camouflaged by the darkening horizon.

After my visit, this bucolic scene came under serious threat.

In March, an earthquake struck just to the north of Tachileik, leveling much of the area and resulting in at least 75 casualties. While information out of Burma is always elusive, Kengtung was badly shaken but avoided any major damage.

By dusk, we’re descending into the city. Relieved to find Paul waiting for me at the hotel, I bid a firm farewell to my »

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as we start and hilltop

isolated asia Clockwise from opposite, bottom left: Pagodas and colonial buildings surround Naung Tung; inside Kengtung’s busy market; this part of Burma is still remote thanks partly to the rolling countryside; Wat Jong Kham, the town’s most impressive temple; the old palace of Shan royals; a monk strolls outside Wat Yang Kuang; a local smile.

climbing, tea plantations pagodas come into view

bucolic burma

Clockwise from top left: At the Kengtung market; novice monks clean up their temple; a mural at Wat In; a bridge crossing en route to Kengtung; paying respects at a local temple; the quiet countryside; local children.

along a wooden gallery,

bodyguard with a Bt1,000 note and a don’t-mess-with-me handshake. He scowls at Paul and makes a heated call, presumably to the same cheerless “travel agency” where I was marooned back at the border. This is my country, he protests. “Yes, but it’s my money,” I reply. Lighting a cigarette, he skulks off.

My mood lifts further when I realize my Rangoon friends were right: Paul is an inspiration. Once an insurgent in the Shan army, he’s as cynical about authority as he is passionate about his people. As a guide he’s respectful and courteous, peppering talk of agrarian reforms with witty asides. Human dignity and the life of ideas are what matter to him, even if, at 62, he looks a bit silly in his tribal get-up of baggy cotton trousers and embroidered shirt.

Since the country’s military government signed ceasefire agreements with the Shan in 1998, Kengtung has been granted a degree of autonomy. The last monarch died in 1997, but people here still nurse a fierce pride in their royal heritage that dates back to the 13th century, and see themselves as Shan rather than Burmese.

Paul’s grasp of local history is enviable. He is also immensely popular, something that becomes evident within minutes of entering Kengtung’s noisy market. There’s little cover from the midday sun but local cheer makes up for it. Paul stops at every stall to gossip with friends. He sold rice for 15 years and knows the nutritional or medicinal qualities of all 20 types laid out before us. Other products are less appetizing: black vine roots for easy urination, volcanic lava for physical strength and bamboo shoots with crystallized sulphur for constipation. My mouth is not watering. A group of women make small parcels of betel nut and lime paste with astonishing speed.

Later, we come across a village elder bearing both a dignified manner and a long sword. “This is a man with powerful ancestors,” Paul tells me. In Shan country you are only as good as your ancestors, it seems. Paul is not so impressed with the teenager who sports punk red hair. “He is not satisfied with the life he was born into,” he tells me.

“Obviously no ancestors of note,” I chip in.

A good quarter of market dwellers wear tribal costumes and chatter, according to Paul’s count, in nine dialects. These

are Akha, Ann and Lahu women on shopping sprees, some with black stained teeth. For the Akha alone there is the telltale insignia: metal armlets and silver belts; lunar and solar fertility symbols; fake hair under a helmet and the hammered metal disks indicating their marital status. One even had French coins dating to 1913 in her headdress.

After the market, we head to Paul’s old Catholic college, St. Mary’s. A sister there explains that the Italians were the first missionaries to arrive in the 1950’s but their arrival came at a price: one popular priest was murdered by an insurgent in the 70’s. Paul remembers the story. He says the sky turned black when they carried the priest’s body to its resting place.

It’s been called the Day of Darkness ever since.

Today, there’s a brighter air to the place. Part of the mission remains an orphanage for abandoned children with physical and mental disabilities. A visit is worth it to see the delight on the children’s faces as we approach.

We push on up Lonely Tree Hill to see the 63-meter sequoia, popular with school kids for picnics. Nearby, along the wooden gallery of a typical Burmese pagoda, young monks in red robes learn how to read and write Shan. I comment on the cleanliness. “They all have new floors,” Paul grumbles. “Teak traders offered backhanders to the abbots.”

There is a call from nearby and within minutes we are once again drinking ayet in the house of an old classmate of Paul’s at St. Mary’s.

Returning to town, we find the spot where the king’s palace stood until 1991. A new, government-run Kaiyang Tong Hotel was put up in its place, and today stands forlorn, concrete-stained by the tropical rainy seasons. Resenting the loss, many locals now claim the hotel is haunted. There have been reports of guests running off, scared witless, to the Private Hotel, a nearby establishment run by the chief of police of eastern Shan state, who as a minor official in the military government had been partly responsible for the royal palace’s demise.

Along Kengtung’s main street is a long line of impressive villas, palaces once owned by Shan royals that still boast shady balconies with intricate trellis work. The largest is the former Shan first minister’s house. Set in a lush garden of mango and banana trees, it is guarded by Tu Than Twe, a »

monks learn to read

it’s difficult to imagine with more buddhist 97-year-old still in the service of the family after 70 years.

With the original owner’s children settled in London, Tu now shares the house with bats, a few dusty books and a wall of faded photos of his late boss’s old friends, including Chiang Kai Shek and his wife Soong Mei Ling. With its cobwebbed, low ceilings and heavy sense of history, it’s this place that feels haunted, at least to me. When not selling fruit in the market, Tu prowls the creaky teak floorboards hoping for passersby to take an interest.

Yet the next intruder might well be a wrecking ball. In Shan State, old is associated with the past and oppression; new is good, suggesting the future and hope. Ragtag new development has claimed the commercial heart of the city around the market. That shouldn’t deter: among the many attractive aspects of Kengtung today are handsome woodand-adobe houses, tastefully weathered churches and pagodas smartly hidden behind bougainvillea-covered walls, along streets winding their way round the hilly terrain, most affording great views of the city’s central lake.

Aside from Kengtung’s colonial core, a rich collection of religious monuments remain. With 48 monasteries serving a population of 70,000, the central square is an ensemble of four monasteries, all combining sweeping roofs that absorb Shan, Siamese and Chinese influences; and the boxlike pyatthat multi-tiered style associated with Burma. Inside, the deep burgundy-painted walls with gold stenciling bring to mind the temples of Luang Prabang. Many of these monuments have been restored, though not always in keeping with the original design. The wooden Wat Phra Chao Luang, guarded by a pair of intricately carved images of mythological birds of fidelity—keinnayi and keinnaya, creatures that are human from the waist up and bird from the waist down—once contained a small image of Buddha commissioned by a Shan king and brought by elephants 172 years ago. During the worst years of the military government, it was replaced with something larger and less refined, just as they changed so much else Shan. Even the name of the city became Kyaingtong.

Thankfully the generals have no control over religious life in Kengtung today. Anyway, local residents believe they had a more important visitor. In Wat Jong Kham, a large stupa built from bricks from the city wall in the 15th century is said to contain, not only the abbot’s ashes, but relics of the Buddha himself. It’s difficult to imagine anywhere with more Buddhist imagery than here. Wat In, Kengtung’s greatest pagoda, 126 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

boasts a gallery of wooden images, representing centuries of worship. Not a single iron nail was used in the construction of pillars, Paul tells me. He points out a bejeweled peacock, actually a 19th-century clock.

As darkness descends our last stop is the small lake in the center of town, Naung Tung, where more church spires, gold stupas and the Yat Thaw Mu standing Buddha are silhouetted against a pink sunset. It was in these calm murky waters that Paul fished as a child. We stop at a café, its TV blaring a talent show aimed at preteen Burma. Paul takes advantage of my disinterest to tell me about Khun Sa, the legendary warlord who ran Kengtung with a private army of 30,000 and huge profits from opium. While the American government offered US$2 million for his head, Khun Sa presented himself as a local hero for standing up to the military government. “Close your eyes and your mouth and you will be rich,” was his promise. In fact he gave little to the poor and ended up sharing his profits with his old enemy, dictator Ne Win. Turns out, the wealth in Kengtung lies in its people and its historic buildings.

By my last night in Kengtung, I am more than ready to return to the modern world. There is a power cut at the Chinese restaurant near my hotel, so while the generator whirs into life, the local bikers obligingly shine their lights onto the ginger chicken I was trying to eat. Surfing at the only Internet café in town is pointless.

Later that same night, I have nightmares about my passport. The next morning, when we finally get back to the border I say only a brief goodbye to Paul to head off in desperate pursuit of my sorely missed identification.

Suddenly coming into view with a cigarette hanging from his mouth is my Burmese Gatsby. I offer him a friendly wave, hoping he will forgive me for being so rude to him three days earlier. This time it is his turn to ignore me. ✚

Kengtung Address Book Getting There From the Thai-Burmese border at Mae Sai and Tachileik, it’s a fourhour drive to Kengtung on one of the four buses leaving daily (US$10). A seat in a private car costs US$20–$25 per person.

Eat and Stay Princess Hotel South of Paleng

Gate; 95-84/21319; doubles from US$30.

Private Hotel 5 Airport Rd.; 9584/21438; privatehotelmyanmar. com; doubles from US$35.

Seik Ti Kye The menu consists of Chinese and Thai dishes, including hotpot. Airport Rd.; 95-84/21387; dinner for two 2,500 kyats.

anywhere in the world imagery than kengtung

Kengtung in a festive mood.

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S

Chilling at Fabriken Furillen, located in a former cement factory.

ince I have visited Sweden more in winter than in any other season, I am wellversed in daytime candlelight and soothing saunas and “Jansson’s temptation,” a hearty potato casserole. But for my latest trip, I wanted to follow the Swedes follow­ing their midnight-sun bliss, to sample their various notions of perfect summer, and to fantasize about endless time, which the Swedes, given their generous vacations, seem to have. And I wanted to stay briefly in four new or recently reimagined hotels—in wildly different places, from Stockholm and the island of Gotland, in the Baltic, to the woods and mountains— that would allow me to breathe deeply and eat purely, from land and lake. On uniformly good beds under clouds of goose down, I slept peacefully in spite of the near-ceaseless daylight. In each place, I felt distant from regular life, yet never removed from civilization. Because if there’s one thing the Swedes do as well as summer, it’s put design on a pedestal as high as nature. Through textures and light, materials and craft, they demonstrate a sensitivity to the environment that, far from being one-note, is a manysplendored thing.

FABRIKEN FURILLEN Gotland

Though I didn’t know it at the time, my arrival on the island of Gotland set me up for the moody, monochromatic experience I was to have at Fabriken Furillen, a small hotel that opened in 2000 and expanded for the better part of the next decade. The brief flight from Stockholm descended into fog at little Visby Airport. Then the rain began in earnest, falling so hard and fast that the quick walk to the rental car was a soaker, the 45-minute drive to Furillen a wiper-whipping swim along narrow roads until it lightened to a mist. The gray immersion had begun.

Furillen is itself an islet in the Baltic Sea off the northeastern coast of Gotland. Unlike Fårö, the island just to the north that Ingmar Bergman long called home, a ferry ride isn’t required to get there. Still, the sense of crossing to a wholly dif­ferent place was profound. Craggy limestone formations loomed to the side of the road like tipsy sentries. Just before dipping to » 128 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

pure

In a country that reveres nature as much as design,

HEATHER S M I TH M AC I SAAC checks in to four new hotels that elevate both equally. p h o t o g r a p h e d b y m a r t h a c a m a r ill o

sweden

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101 km

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Malmagen

1 Fabriken Furillen 2 Hotel Skeppsholmen 3 Fjällnäs 4 Urnatur Skogseremitage

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SWEDEN Stockholm 2

Baltic Sea 4

Ödeshög 1 Furillen

Gotland

DENMAR K

sea level and reaching the causeway to Furillen, the road traversed odd, empty, unnatural pools—as if a giant had taken an ice cream scoop to the earth, the flavor of the day being cement.

Everything about Fabriken Furillen is unlikely. What kind of person would look at an old cement factory (fabriken) operating out of a limestone quarry, dormant for some 30 years, and see the bones of a hotel? It would have to be someone as visionary as a photographer used to conceptualizing and improvising while on assignment in exotic locations. Tired of being on the road much of the year, away from family, Johan Hellström moved permanently to Furillen in 1999, first renovating the factory with his wife, Anna-Karin, as a studio before expanding it into a hotel. The idea was to promote the factory as much as a location for photo shoots as an unusual escape.

At Fabriken, the visual trumps all else. There is beauty: in a coat tree draped with gray wool throws and the silvery curly pelts of Gotland sheep; in the rough and smooth textures of raw and polished concrete; in the delicate sprig of green leaves laid atop white napkins at the dinner table; and then in the plate of tuna tartare followed by tender slices of reindeer with lingonberry coulis (the food is all the more delectable for its isolated genesis). And there is drama—in spades. Heavy chains still hang from the ceiling of the former workers’ canteen. Large single-pane windows in the dining room frame a Charles Sheeleresque image of a hulking concrete tow­er next to a gargantuan heap of slag. There is a rugged, surreal, even romantic allure to the setting that the overcast sky only abetted, allowing all the subtle shades of gray

to emerge. Like sound carrying across water, a woman in a bright orange jacket could be seen in the fog, sharp as a spark, way down the beach. One can only imagine the scenes Bergman, were he still filming, could have produced here.

But along with cinematic effects there is a degree of discomfort that comes from a slavishness to style: a small, handsome bar but no cozy lounge; poorly ar­ranged, bare-bones bathrooms; no bedside reading lamps but instead an industrial fixture casting a hostile glare over the pillows. I felt at times like an interloper on a fashion shoot, moving amid a stylish young crew who are hospitable and earnest if not so experienced. Yet even interlopers have a fascination with the scene before them.

Fabriken Furillen is so unusual a place, one of such brutal beauty, that despite its faults, it stayed with me far longer than I stayed with it.

wood works Clockwise

from top left: The restaurant at Stockholm’s Hotel ­Skeppsholmen; a light ­installation by David Trubridge at the hotel; the outdoor plunge pool at Fjällnäs, a resort in Härjedalen province; Fjällnäs’s chapel.

Opposite: A guest at Fabriken Furillen, a hotel off the island of Gotland.

HOTEL SKEPPSHOLMEN Stockholm

Was I dreaming? Was it the lingering effects of jet lag? Faintly, but as steadily as waves reaching shore, a chorus of shrieks lapped the window of my room at Hotel Skeppsholmen. The cries, it turned out, were of false terror, erupting from the roller coaster at Gröna Lund—Stockholm’s version of Copenhagen’s Tivoli—a slingshot’s distance across the water. Of all the sounds I had expected to hear at what is perhaps Stockholm’s most central hotel, this had not been among them. The next morning, the breakfast terrace provided a more restful soundtrack: birds scuffling for crumbs; lanyards slapping against metal masts; the clink of cup finding saucer. » travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 131

Like the still eye of a swirling storm, the island of Skeppsholmen is a calm oasis in the center of Sweden’s largest city. Yet it is not a hub. It is convenient enough that every section of the city is a mere walk, bike ride or ferry trip away, but it is apart.

The hotel itself is one of the few commercial enterprises on the island, the others being a restaurant, a hostel aboard a fully rigged 19th-century sailing ship and two museums. None of them were going to con­tribute to disturbing the peace. Nor was traffic. Roads on the park­like island are few, cars even fewer. My taxi scarcely found the hotel in the dark, its signage was so minimal.

The discretion is fitting. Built in 1699 to house royal marines—the architect, Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, also designed the Royal Castle—the two 100-meterlong buildings are now protected as significant historic structures. Alteration is so restricted that when the hotel was created in 2009, any modifications needed to be reversible. I could as easily have been a midshipman returning to the barracks in the 18th century as a guest checking in, so little changed is the classic exterior—butteryellow stucco walls; or­derly rows of windows trimmed in gray; chimneys in strict forma­tion atop dormered metal roofs, all in severest black.

Inside, in spite of the restrictions, Hotel Skeppsholmen steps fully into Scandimodern mode. Sweden’s architecture firm of the moment, Claesson Koivisto Rune, turned constraints into assets, em­phasizing timeless materials such as wood and stone and adding di­mension by playing with light and bursts of color. Punctuating the long corridors and stairwells like guiding beacons are outsize light installations

by David Trubridge, Carola Lindh-Hormia and Jameelah El-Gashjgari. In the 81 bedrooms, plain in the manner of a Jil Sander suit, the colors of the Swedish flag turn up in a bright-canary side table and small club chairs upholstered in soft blue. For bathrooms, the designers inserted stand-alone pods, all right angles save for the sensuous porcelain sinks modeled after skipping stones.

Luxury in Scandinavia is never obvious, lest it be mistaken for a French import.

At Hotel Skeppsholmen it comes in the form of soaped pine floors smooth to the feet, Duxiana mattresses, duvets sheathed in crisp cotton and body products from Byredo, an exotic yet made-in-Sweden line with graphics as chic and direct as the hotel’s own. Down in the dining room, where the menu is limited but the quality is high, glass walls extend the shimmery effect of light bouncing off water and a basket of sheepskins sits beside the door to the terrace, ready for use outside as seat cushions, baby blankets, or wraps when the wind picks up. At Hotel Skeppshol­men, in summer, you want to be outside as much as in, enjoying its greatest indul­gences: the sea at your feet, quiet in your head and the city all around you.

ROOM FOR REIMAGINING

A quiet corner—complete with stuffed mascot—at Fjällnäs, top. Below: A path at Urnatur Skogseremitage.

Opposite, from top: The breakfast spread at Fjällnäs; inside a room at Hotel Skeppsholmen.

FJÄLLNÄS Malmagen

Ski areas in summer have a certain list­less, under-landscaped quality. And that was my initial impression of Fjällnäs, a hotel just northwest of the ski town of Tänndalen, on the Norwegian border. The wooden buildings—housing some 45 rooms, plus a hostel, spa, chapel and main lodge—were unsheltered by vegeta­tion, a bit exposed without their soften­ing blanket of snow. This was my first trip to Härjedalen province—referred to by some as Southern Lapland, even though it’s well below the Arctic Circle—and I was still adapting. The brightness of the red and yellow buildings was familiar from the seven-hour drive through the countryside north from Stockholm; the topography was not. Sitting on glacial Lake Malmagen, Fjällnäs is surrounded by raw, rocky, windswept terrain shaped by ice 9,000 years ago. It made me feel both small and at the top of the world.

That a place so rugged, no matter how striking, would be the retreat of choice for well-heeled Stockholmers speaks vol­umes about Sweden’s commitment to nature and appreciation for the funda­mental. Guests have come to Fjällnäs since 1882, and the historic lodge is still the centerpiece of the resort, where one sits by the fire, maps out a cross-country-skiing route, and stokes up for the day on salmon, eggs, » travelandleisureasia.com | june 2011 133

A foliage-roofed cabin at Urnatur Skogseremitage, a nature lodge in southern Sweden, above. Below: Urnatur’s owners, Håkan Strotz (left) and Ulrika Krynitz, outside the Air Castle room, which is suspended over the forest floor.

muesli and strong coffee. It’s also where hikers, cyclists and fami­lies—often three generations’ worth—unwind at day’s end on the banquettes that line the dining room. Even in the cool daylight that accompanied dinner, everything glowed: the healthy faces and blond heads, the warm pine walls, the bright brass light fixtures.

Fjällnäs completed a smart renova­tion and redecoration in 2008. So along with the vintage postcard left on my pillow at night (from a long tucked-away stash found on the property) and the thick wool socks laid atop the blan­ket at the foot of the bed, there were Missoni towels and bathrobes in rich, narrow stripes. More stripes turned up in upholstered window seats and rag rugs lining a bench in the hall where one can sit down to change out of dirty boots. When it comes to highly refined practicality, Fjällnäs is pitch-perfect. Most bedroom floors are heated, as are towel bars. Each floor comes equipped with a drying closet for wet gear.

Fjällnäs knows its audience: there is little sitting around. In fact, the place empties out during the day, with guests taking off in all directions, not to be seen for hours. I joined them, ac­companied by my friend Susanne, who had come prepared with caps and rucksacks. We added bottles of water to our picnic lunch, though the man­ager assured us we could drink straight from any stream. We hiked up a trail through mountain birch and emerged above the tree line onto a plain of undulat­ing rock tempered by scruffy vegeta­tion. The scene was so vast, the vista so far and broad, as to be immeasur­able. Only a wooden signpost gave any guidance or sense of scale.

Much as I loved my room at Fjällnäs, I could have lived at its Mii Gullo Spa. A scent that was a cross between bal­sam forest and wood smoke—pine tar, it turned

out, used as a natural sealant for the building’s wood cladding—set the scene. A fire burned in the lounge area. Funny elfin hats, to keep one’s head warm outside postsauna, and rough linen washcloths were stacked next to more of those colorful Missoni towels. A horizontal band of window in the sauna framed a panorama of lake­shore meeting mountain. Hardy Swedes moved nonchalantly from sauna to hot pool to a plunge in the frigid waters of the lake. I opted for a foot and lower-leg treatment. Sitting in a chair while the therapist gently bathed my legs, I felt like a supplicant to a Norse god of well-being; I never wanted to leave. My mind wandered only so far as the magical setting I found myself in.

URNATUR SKOGSEREMITAGE Ödeshög

If only people like Ulrika Krynitz and Håkan Strotz had been in charge of the backto-the-land movement of the 1960’s. Hippies would have been heroes, communes would have had waiting lists and environmentally, we’d all be way ahead of the game by now. The couple, a German and a Swede, respectively, did the opposite of dropping out: they got degrees in biology (Krynitz) and for­estry (Strotz), traveled, studied some more, taught, designed and then, in 1993, bought a farm. And only naturally, very organically, did that farm develop into Urnatur Skogseremitage, an eco-reserve in green parlance, a summer camp for grown-ups in realspeak.

Three hours southwest of Stockholm on small Lake Visjö, Urnatur is like a demonstration model for the live-smart movement and a destination for those who wish to not so much turn back the clock as to slow it way down. In a place named for a Swedish phrase that means both “ancient nature” and “made from nature,” everything that’s in the woods is of the woods. From storm-felled trees, Strotz handbuilt one main cabin, six guest cabins, two tree houses and a bathhouse—the only structure with both electricity (solar-powered) and plumbing. (Strotz read the bibles of the American back-to-the-land movement, the Foxfire books from the 1970’s, which inspired much of his craft and woodsmanship.) An apprentice con­structed that most rare specimen, a delightful outhouse. Three of the cab­ins have roofs of peat and moss that spawn wild strawberries in late sum­mer, and meld into a forest carpeted in plush, intense green. At Urnatur, na­ture and design dovetail seamlessly.

Pulling from Swedish, Amish, Shaker, Russian and Japanese traditions, each cabin is unique but uniformly enticing. I wanted to stay in them all.

A 10-minute walk from the cabins, along a path bordered by pastures for Swedish heritage breeds of cows and sheep, brought me to the lake. Here, inside the “tin castle,” a metal-roof building that’s the largest at Urnatur, or on its deck, guests gather for con­versation, a glass of wine and Krynitz’s fine meals, their ingredients pulled from the farm. It was just be­fore dinner, 8 p.m., and the sun was nowhere close to setting. I walked out onto a dock projecting into the lake. Calm waters mirrored a sky scattered with backlit clouds. It was hard to imagine a place more peaceful.

Urnatur is all fresh smells and new experiences and no rules. If you want crayfish for dinner, you can row out on the lake and check the traps with Strotz. Herbal tea?

Forage on the grounds with Krynitz. When the sky finally darkens, you light your way with lanterns, your cabin with candles and kerosene lamps. After all, Strotz says, “What is more beautiful: a lightbulb or a burning candle?” When you want to bake in the sauna or stargaze from the hot tub, both part of the immaculate bathhouse, you advise Strotz, who stokes the fires that heat them.

Even taking into account their for­mal education, I was astonished by Krynitz and Strotz’s knowledge—of carpentry and blacksmithing, of plant material and food and cooking, of ani­mal husbandry, of Swedish history and lore, of current events and contempo­rary design, and simply of people. Here was a couple as attuned to human na­ture as to the natural world, engaging hosts who knew when to step forward and when to pull back. Not just the creators and caretakers of Urnatur, they are its soul, making it a paradigm impossible not to want to emulate, im­possible to replicate. ✚

A plate of Gotland lamb and grilled vegetables in pomegranate sauce at Fabriken Furillen, top. Bottom: One of the original buildings at Fjällnäs.

SWEDish DESIGN HOTELS ADDRESS BOOK STAY Fabriken Furillen Lärbro, Gotland; 46-498/223-040; ­f urillen.nu; doubles from kr2,145; open April–September.

GREAT VALUE Fjällnäs Malmagen, Tänndalen; 46-684/23030; fjallnas.se; doubles from kr1,250; closed mid-July 2011 for renovations.

Hotel Skeppsholmen 1 Gröna Gången, Stockholm; 46-8/407-2300; hotelskeppsholmen.com; doubles from kr2,395.

GREAT VALUE Urnatur Skogseremitage Sjögetorp, Ödeshög; 46-144/10234; urnatur.se; doubles from kr1,240, including some meals; open April– October (closed in July).

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sam neill’s

favorite place

OTAGo, new Zealand “I grew up in a coastal area called Dunedin and we used to go to Central Otago on holidays. We had an old van and the whole family would pile in with the tents and the fishing rods, and head there for three to four weeks. We camped a lot and I loved the area because it was so different from anything I knew. In the winter we would head there to ski—those days there were no ski lifts, so it was all rope tows and it was pretty primitive. The climate in Central Otago is fantastic; dry, warm summers, cold winters, lovely clear blue lakes, snow on the mountain tops with clear, clean air. It’s a stunning area that I’ve never taken for granted, there’s really nothing like it.

136 june 2011 | travelandleisureasia.com

“I decided from an early age if I had enough money to build a house I would do. And in 1987, that’s what I did. It’s one of the best places in the world for a picnic. There’s a spot called Paradise, which is just up the road from Lake Wakatipu. If you’ve seen the pretty parts of Lord of the Rings, it’s similar. I like to fish and there’s excellent fly-fishing in the lakes up there. The waters are very clear so you’re spotting fish, which is five times more exciting than fishing blind. And now that people have become accustomed to catch-and-release fishing, these fish have become pretty smart. If it has been caught once or twice, it probably wonders if it is a fly and if it should actually leave it alone.

“The thing about fishing is if you catch one, it’s a bonus.

Catching a fish is not really the point of the exercise; the point is to be up a beautiful river. I’ve been to some places where I am the only living soul in the valley. How beautiful is that? That’s the thing about being in New Zealand, you can have a general wilderness experience and visit places that are unspoiled. There aren’t many places in the world like it.”—hui fang

FROM T OP : © J a m e s T h e w l i s | D r e a m s t i m e . c o m ; © F r e d e r i c k M . B r o w n / a f p / g e tt y. c o m

Sandfly Bay on the Otago Peninsula, New Zealand. Below: Actor Sam Neill.