It’s Simply About Sustainable Fashion
#2: Spring|Summer 2020
Interview with
Belinda Chorley
Pachacuti Panama
PLEA TO KEEP OCEANS PLASTIC-FREE
Multiway Fashion 1
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Hello again … I am delighted beyond what can be shared in words to be publishing issue 2 of #Trashion - A bi-annual digital magazine, simply about sustainable fashion: Together let’s take the #fofffashion and replace it with TRue TRends, fair TRade and TRansformation… moving forward into a sustainable fashionable future one step at a time... with a little help from Trashion’s amazing contributors – who are tagged on the pages – You have all helped to create this awesome platform that projects positive shifts in the fashion industry. #Gratitude
Truly yours, Jordan P Martin
Graphic Designer, Publisher, Editor: @byjpmartin Proofreader: Ara E Lee Logo Creation: @chanelcen
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CONTENTS Trashion Talk | LOCAL 6 - Time Capsule @tinanikolovski
8 - Stand by Me @adamwowkstills
12 - H20 Feature Shoot @chasinaesthetics
Trashion Talk | NATIONAL 28 - Plea to keep oceans plastic-free! @_katyb Trashion Talk | INTERNATIONAL 31 - Dolly Daydream In memory of Velda Lauder
Trade 39 - Pachacuti Panama @stoyanovjones
42 - Molecule Masks 43 - Belinda Chorley INTERVIEW 46 - Sand Castles in the Sky FASHION FEATURE Transformation 48 - Golden ink - Loaded inc. FASHION FEATURE 52 - Underneath the Blossom Trees FASHION FEATURE 56 - Switch-up the Plastic 57 - What is that dress made of? 58 – ‘Tis Trash-chic COMIC ISSUE #1 HASHTAGS: #nomoreplastic #multiuse #multiway #notbuyingnew #bespokedesign #share #plasticfreeoceans #models101graduates #fofffashion
Cover Credits: Creative Director & Wardrobe Stylist: Jordan P Martin Photography set-up: Adanna Obinna Photo taken by: Kim Solo Hair & Make-up Artist: Cindy Rue Models: Adriana Brkic, Amanda Quinn, Adanna Obinna & Bekka Brookhouse We acknowledge all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island people: Respect and gratitude to the Ngunnawal people – the traditional custodians of the land – and extend this respect and acknowledgment to the elders; past, present, emerging and future. Disclaimer: #Trashion Magazine is published biannually (twice per annum) @byjpmartin. No part of #Trashion Magazine may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted to any form without permission. Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of @byjpmartin, and are included to provide advice only. During publishing, images may be subject to a 15% variation. © Copyright of content belongs to individual contributors with the magazine copyright belonging to @byjpmartin. All rights reserved. Please share this magazine with others. 5
Trashion Talk | LOCAL
Time Capsule
Photographer, C reative Director & Style Direction www.tinanikolov :Â @tinanikolovski ski.com Model & Wardrob e: Marco Simune c @marcosimune @roseystalentcon cmodelling sultants 6
Trashion Talk | LOCAL
WHAT: A capsule wardrobe is a personal closet consisting of a low number of garments that can be pieced together to create numerous ensembles. WHY: To keep life simple. To stick to a style that suits you, your lifestyle and career. To ensure you are making considered consumer choices. To assist your decision-making process when getting ready. WHEN: No better time than the here and now to switch to a capsule wardrobe, because once you choose quality over quantity, you’ll be moving from a fashion concept to a stylish statement.
HERE: Keep it local and slow if you can, opting for independent designers. Also, opt for online if the brand is ethical, eco or handmade. HOW: Don’t go throwing out anything that doesn’t happen to suit your new capsule wardrobe idea - take your time, and gradually sort and clear through the things that you no longer want, then decide if they can be upcycled, recycled or reloved by somebody else. Choose a colour palette and learn how to layer ... The trick to layering is to use different fabrics and tonal shades or the same colour in a different texture.
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Trashion Talk | LOCAL
sta #hubcaps
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nd b
ym e
Trashion Talk | LOCAL
A non-binary bond; bound not by stereotypes nor by social media peer pressure - to dress like this or like that - No labels. No clue ... of what they want to do, just coasting with the flow and looking stylish as they go - joyriding through life and choosing practical outfits that say...
#sharecaps
“we can bloody well wear what we like!�
#secondhand
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#snap t: k lis y w o St W e & ob ls : dam r e s d t od ng ar di r: A s m e o W ka str Cr phe still & j t o oo gra owk ctor ev Arm h d o S ot w e @ tch m ir Ph da e D tin rtin tre a v @ eati mar Ma nd S x Cr yjp Re ir a b : u @ del .m o ilin M a c @ 10
#share
#real80s
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Take us back to the clean ocean... Before the rise up of plastic pollution.
Befo re the brig ht plast ic dulle d our vibra ncy and stole natu ral evolu tion.
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Trashion Talk | LOCAL
H0 2
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Trashion Talk | LOCAL
When we swim towards the future .... will plastic outweigh fish in the oceans? Do we simply keep on swimming and wait to find out?
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#l
ove
me
rm
aid
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Trashion Talk | LOCAL
Plastic carrier bags don’t disappear, they can end up lodged in the stomach of dolphins ... Is is okay, to let them die in this way?
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#savedolphins
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Trashion Talk | LOCAL
Plastic production increases annually and the seabirds ingest large amounts ... What’s on their menu bottle caps or synthetic fibres?
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s l l gu
#
a e s
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Wear your multiway dress secured behind the neck and allow the loose fabric to flow behind you like wings of a seagull. Accessorise with a statement beaded necklace.
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Wear your multiway dress as a smock maxi and layer with a vibrant tube top, secured with the fabric twisted around the bustline. Accessorise with vintage hair beads.
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Wear your multiway dress as a halter-neck and twist the material to cross over the back and secure around the waist. This hair accessory is a tie created from leftover dress fabric @tatkisch and covered with white plastic mesh from a supermarket bottle.
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This multiway dress was converted into harem pants by @tatkisch creating a gender neutral one-piece, worn assymetrically over one shoulder.
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Make a promise to the oceans in 2020 to stop single use plastic & try multiway Dresses 24
S E L RT
U T #
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Behind the Scenes of H 0 2
Shoot Credits: Creative Director & Wardrobe Stylist: Jordan Martin @byjpmartin www.jordanmartin.biz Photographer: Adanna Obinna @chasinaesthetics www.visualsbyadanna.com Hair & Make-up Artist: Cindy Rue @cindyrue_ @ _kyndred www.kyndred.com.au Models: Adanna Obinna @chasinaesthetics Adriana Brkic @adriana.brkic Amande-Jane Quinn @amandajanemodel Bekka Brookhouse @bekkajohanna_ Dresses: Unused new secondhand bridesmaid dresses - one dress changed into harem pants @tatkisch Beaded accessories: @thegreenshed_underground $5 each Earrings and Shoes: Model’s own Venues: Garran & Fadden Pines Park With special thanks to @kimysolo for assisting - You are all truly the best! Mascot: Dawn the Siberian Forest kitten 27
Trashion Talk | NATIONAL
Plea to keep oceans plastic-free! @_katyb www.kathrynblom.com
These are microplastics and they are suffocating the oceans and the life within. For the last couple of decades, fashion has been getting faster and cheaper as a result. With such fast fashion has come an increased uptake in the use of polyblends, acrylics and polyester – all of which are formed of plastics. Plastic has been extremely useful in creating a huge array of clothing that, as technology has improved, is comfortable and can replicate some of its more expensive natural fibre counterparts at just a fraction of the cost – Effectively bringing fashion to the masses! In fact, now 70-percent of all clothing is made of plastic.
Plastics never break down, they break apart into smaller pieces A single garment can release up to 730,000 micro-fibres in a single wash cycle. In fact, laundry alone causes half a million tonnes of micro-fibres to be released into the ocean every year. This is because microplastics are often so small that up to 40-percent of them can’t be caught by water treatment plants. A recent Ocean Wise study (a Canadian Ocean and wildlife charity) found that approximately 60-percent of all microplastics emitted annually from the Vancouver secondary water treatment facility were micro-fibres that had come from clothes. And this is only including the clothes that we keep and are simply washing for everyday use.
2020
will certainly be remembered as the year that the world was gripped by Covid 19 – The virus that has swept the world by storm, closed our borders and affected our economies. But, another plague has been overtaking our wildlife and our oceans for much longer … the plague of plastic! It’s estimated that if nothing changes, by 2050 the ocean will be filled with more plastics than marine life. As a young girl growing-up in Australia, and going to the beach every Summer, I remember how excited I used to be to dive under the cool water and catch those crashing waves. These days, even on Australia’s relatively pristine beaches, it’s hard to avoid the pollution washing up onto the shores. And some of the most dangerous plastic pollution is barely big enough to see; being washed down the drain every time we wash our clothes. 28
In Australia alone, 500,000 tonnes of textiles and leather end up in landfill every year. This ranks Australia as second in the world, for greatest textile disposal per person. We purchase a whopping 27kg of clothing per year per person and dispose of around 23kg in that same year. While we may admirably try to send unwanted clothing to the charity, the glut of clothes has meant the vast majority of these garments end up in third-world countries where it is often mismanaged, and these clothes still are being flushed into the oceans. While research on microplastics is still in the early stages, we still have to address the obvious problems: The first being the effect on marine life ... Baby fish often come of age in naturally oily slicks – rich in plankton, algae and other fish foods – unfortunately, now, their first meals are full of microplastics. If a small young fish mistakes a piece of plastic for plankton it often means that it won’t have the calories to survive to the next day. Their chances of survival was already low, as fish larvae and baby fish are a favourite feeding ground for bigger fish.
Photography & Styling: Dawn Marie Jones: @stoyanovjones Hair & Make-up: Monnie Kaur: @monnie.k.makeupartist Using cruelty free products. Model Carolina: @Zone @caromoura_ Plastic being eaten at this low level in the food chain leads to plastic being in the stomachs of all marine life. We have all seen some of the devastating images of fish and birdlife being found to have stomachs full of plastic items, causing the animals to starve as they are unable to fit any actual nutrients in or properly digest what they are eating. Toxins are both on and in the plastics that are eaten, and often effect hormonal production, leading to possible growth stunting. These plastics are affecting marine life all the way up the food chain including the food humans eat. However it is not all bad news. Knowing about the effects of our consumption can lead to behavioural change, and this is our best chance for our oceans. There are things we can do: First of all, the best way is to reduce if not eliminate consumption of single-use plastic. We also need to create an initiative for brands to test fabrics in the production stage to reduce shedding. The fashion industry would have been somewhat forced during this pandemic to rethink the way they do business. If we, as consumers, make it clear through campaigning and our buying habits, that environmental and sustainable practices are important, then we could rebuild the industry to create less waste. As individuals, we can wash textiles less often; buy products designed to last; say ‘no’ to fast fashion; use a front-loading washing machine; and buy a lint trap for our washing machines and purchase micro-fibre catchers such as Guppy Friend or the Cora Ball. These are small changes that can, over time, make a big difference. While we still have a long way to go, every micro-action helps. 29
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Dolly Daydream
In Memory of Velda Lauder
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Trashion Talk | INTERNATIONAL
Dita von Teese is amongst many fans that wore Velda Lauder’s beautifully created corsets.
‘Corsets: A Modern Guide’ written by Velda is still available to buy and traces the history of the corset.
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Trashion Talk | INTERNATIONAL
We must always celebrate the ones who leave something so special behind.
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Trashion Talk | INTERNATIONAL
Behind the Scenes of the Dolly Daydream Shoot Shoot Credits: Designer: Velda Lauder Shoes: Essella Boutique Photographer: Darren Brade Hair: Vicki Lord Make-up: Lucy Jayne Parker Model: Lonnie Beckley Model booking: @byjpmartin Location: Boys Hall, Kent
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Pachacuti As a fashion and
beauty photographer based in London, UK, I cannot deny, I love my job: The excitement of working with teams of incredibly creative people; being behind the scenes and meeting those at the cutting edge of the industry, and the c r e a t i v e process of producing so many beautiful images – There’s really nothing quite like it and I think it’s something of a true calling for me personally... I am however torn by the darker side I know to exist within the industry, and the very real environmental and social impact it has g l o b a l l y . . . 39
I’ve been able to work with brands who have
a real commitment to making the world a better place: Who are the trailblazers and the movers and shakers, putting environmental impact, sustainability and social wellbeing, and fairness at the forefront, not the afterthought of their business practices. I had the pleasure of shooting for Pachacuti Panama hats out in Ibiza, whilst visiting the island for an event with Fashion for Conservation last summer. I began working with the charity since 2018 and I learnt more about the impacts of the industry too. Since making a decision to focus my efforts on working with sustainable and ethical brands as much as possible and actively connecting with more people and brands within this realm, I’ve felt a whole new world opening up before me; a world I am proud to be a part of! Whilst ‘sustainability’ is a real buzz word at the moment, Pachacuti was founded on the principals that underpin the phrase and was in fact one of the first companies in the world to receive an official certificate in Fair Trade. Pachacuti has undoubtedly been a truly inspirational company from the outset... 40
Their story begins within a small community in Equador, where for over two decades, they have worked with local artisans to create hats, which subtly combine tradition, luxury and sustainability. The craft of the weaver stretches back generations and is a highly specialist art, which needs to be protected. Having seen the hats and photographed them personally, I can confidently say that the quality is something to be admired. Each design is unique and combines handmade luxury with a timeless sense of style. Whether you’re simply looking for a beautiful hat with distinguished style or you’re looking to spend your money in a more conscious way, you can be sure that your Pachacuti Panama hat will make you look and feel incredible! Founded by Fashion Revolution’s Carry Somers, there has always been a strong focus on sustainability, ethical practices and the minimisation of environmental impact within the Pachacuti company framework. Carry’s husband Mark has deep artistic roots and takes pride in the craft and skill of their artisans: He now runs the company fulltime, expressing equal passion in maintaining the principals on which it was founded.
Trade
Another way in which Pachacuti is striving to be at the forefront of sustainability in fashion, is by adapting a noseasons approach. In 2014, they made a major decision to stop creating seasonal collections and focus purely on designing beautiful, enduring pieces. In doing so, they hope to encourage customers to cherish and love their Pachacuti hat, rather than encouraging even more of what can only be described as ‘mindless consumerism’ within the industry. I sense the mood is finally changing across the length and breadth of the planet... many of us are becoming aware of the direct impact our spending choices make on the world at large and on families and people just like us, in not so distant places. And that, is a really good feeling. Writer: Dawn Marie Jones
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www.panamas.co.uk Photographer: @stoyanovjones www.stoyanovandjones.com
Working within strict guidelines, Pachacuti ensures that the communities are always receiving fair and sustainable wages and are encouraged to protect their environment. The organically grown Carludovica Palmata plant used to create the hats, is cultivated on a lovely community owned plantation, which encourages biodiversity of plants and animals within a 5600-hectare protected area. With their hard work and protection of their land, the community has seen a big improvement in biodiversity in recent years.
It looks like we could
be swapping wearing our favorite lipsticks for wearing masks, how best are we to do this? By wearing a comfortable, effective mask, and one that doesn’t feel like a part of a medical uniform! Our team of creative crafts people have a combined sixty years of experience in textiles and manufacturing industries, and we have conceived and manufactured the Molecule Masks to not only protect the wearer against 99.99% of viruses with the three-layer breathable technical nanofabric – treated with HeiQ’s specialist antiviral treatment (Viroblock) – but to also be comfortable and stylish… because I think that we shouldn’t have to make that c o m p r o m i s e . www.moleculemasks.com 42
Molecule Masks And it’s clear that you haven’t compromised on the sustainability values ...
We can see they look stylish, but what have you done to add comfort?
No way.
The masks are designed with a focus on fit and comfort, as well as look.
Throwaway just isn’t an option for so many reasons. The new Molecule Masks are not only self-cleaning, but also odour-shielding, and built to last and do not even require throwaway filters, which makes them one of the most sustainable personal protection solutions available on the market. And with a price point of between £20£30 this is a safe investment.
Our rear-fastening masks fit snugly on the face, around the ears and under the chin for extra comfort. And as I mentioned, the fabric is three layer. There is also comfort in knowing the masks are anti bacterial and self-cleaning. We are living through unprecedented times, so it is at least good to know that our masks are keeping us safe.
heiq.com/technologies/heiq-viroblock
Trade
a d n i l Be y e l r o Ch
Photographer: Karen Wortley 43
Trade Personally, I love the fact that my daughter only wants to shop in charity shops or from Etsy. Just like I did when I was a student in Bristol.
An Interview with legendary corset creator, Belinda Chorley ...
Can you tell us about an exciting recent creation? I am always creating, and during lockdown I spent all of this time designing and making.
How long have you been a What can a client expect designer? when they order a corset? I have been designing probably
One creation that comes to mind is the ‘Gone with the Wind’ dress ... I have been constantly inspired by Scarlett O’Hara who made a huge impact on me when she took the shame away from using curtains to flaunt her vanity.
since I was a punk, at a time when Having been equipped with I was inspired to be myself and was centuries of corset design, it is a disinterested in the fashion that natural progression for me to take the high-street had to offer. So, And eventually, I this knowledge and design for my for forty odd years now. had an opportunity clients based on that. to work with Ms. Sera of London, Tell us about your design The process entails having a who provided this potential customer interested in magnificent length journey? one of my designs via my website. of damask silk Then at the first appointment I After graduating in Bristol, I had curtain fabric, and offer a consultation: she views and hooked-up with bands like Massive I had great fun in tries on designs that she loves, Attack, and my path lead me to collaborating and gets the opportunity to see making clothes for bands such as together on this project to create my range. All creative aspects of Aztec Camera, Dire Straits, Bros, a stunning gold-olive gown. design are explored... starting Cathy Dennis, Pete burns, Big with the corset base and the Country, and so on. silhouette, fabric choice, budget, Do you advocate reusing And when the doors opened and type of event and venue. to work in the fetish industry, I realised that it would be a better career move to be [Vivienne] Westwood’s corsetiere. I became her main corset producer in the UK. This opened my eyes to the designing and making of corsets. And then the door opened for me into the film industry, where with my design knowledge I could introduce corsets for the likes of Helen Mirren for ‘Catherine the Great’. And more recently, Elle Fanning who also played Catherine in ‘The Great’ – I produced the foundation garment for the magnificent gowns. 44
How has the fashion industry changed since you started out?
Luckily, my evolution has not depended on the fashion calendar. Working for Westwood gave me insight to stay true to my style rather than to sell out to the never-ending whimsical cycle of change. Sometimes, I felt that she didn’t celebrate the female form; she was quirky to gain attention, which wasn’t always flattering for the woman... Of course, everything is cyclical.
materials and transforming them like with the ‘curtain’ dress? Absolutely! I started recycling curtains from jumble sales in the 80s, making dresses from 1950’s curtains. Upcycling is key to the future of sustainable fashion in the couture market. However, I have a lot of clients who want me to restyle vintage garments that already exist. I prefer to refer these clients to talented alteration technicians.
Trade
What do you believe the future of fashion is?
Since the out-break of the Covid19 virus, I have been discussing with many, the feasibility of establishing a more UK-based production system. However, I Fashion needs to be re-defined. It is fast becoming fashionable to fear we will just fall back into bad wear secondhand clothing... Fast habits. I know of many designers fashion should not be sexy. Waste who are still relying on cheap is not sexy! And this story needs overseas production and even getting masks made for the Natural to be rolled out by all chief editors. ‘Fashion victims’ should History Museum ‘Made in China’! be labelled to the masses, those Recently, since the bottom has who buy for one season and ‘chuck it in the f*ck-it bucket’ because completely dropped out of the bridal market, I have become an the quality is so poor. excellent face shield innovator (designing masks) – made in the What is fashionable? UK. Because masks are needed now and into the future, so they Regards to the current set-up for certainly have become fashionpromotion; ‘fashionable’ does not able! favour small designers.
“-‘Fashion
Magazines like Face and ID used to give regular editorial features for small designers. The ‘big boys’: VOGUE, LOVE magazine and the like, depend on the revenue from top labels like Tom Ford, Burberry Gucci and so on, to pay for adverts and therefore receive editorial in turn.
victims’ should be labelled to the masses”
I have set up a company called Molecule Masks. (Read more on page 42.) I would like to give a big shout out to Mrs Emily Evans, Stylist and Creative Director, and Founder of the Worn Out Project. Finally, ‘fashionable’ is in local, and other sustainable processes, but whether we’ll get there in our lifetime is another question. @beyondbridal_beyondburlesque
This has made them become boring; an old school club fit for the top league only. The choice of gender identity would surely be a driving force to slow down the thirst of fast fashion as well. I have personally found it refreshing that to be able to roll out London Fashion Week with the catwalk merging womenswear with menswear. Hire is the fashionable. Vienna and other countries have embraced the hiring of gowns. Here in the UK, we are so behind in sustainability, because we rely on the production of unsustainable products made in China (Not just Fashion garments). 45
sand castles in the sky
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Shoot Credits: Photographer, Concept, & Creative Director: @tinanikolovski www.tinanikolovski.com Make-up & Tan: @dovemua Hair: @billie_co & @dovemua Designers: @vincent.nguyennnn (Metallic) @pollah_howe_official (Beige) Assistant: @vincent.nguyennnn Model: Samantha @devojkamodels
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Transformation
golden ink
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Memories to hold, ‘til days are old, when Summer’s cold, and all that’s left is dust of gold … Shut the front door to conventions
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Transformation
Climbing down to decline Corporations
loaded inc. Blotting out myths & slicing through pre-conceptions
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Joining forces to upcycle a style for an apocalyptic fashionable future.
Faces with #nofilter when the world’s outta kilter
Shoot Credits: Make-up & Wardrobe: @m.d.artistry Photographer: Glen Mountford Media @glen_mountford Models: @ethanmodboybramble @sandie_callahan @mezzmerized_ Words: @byjpmartin
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This is a prom skirt paired with a small lingerie satin slip fashioned as a top and secured with a suede vintage belt. 52
Transformation
underneath the blossom trees Undergarments can be used as over garments to create elegant and chic ensembles. Multi-use of clothing is a wonderful step towards a more sustainable fashionable future ...
Shoot Credits: Make-up, Wardrobe, Creative Director & Mentor: @byjpmartin www.jordanmartin.biz Photographer: @kyaldorset Model: @imjayderyan Shoot Location: Garran, Canberra
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This black vintage lace lingerie nightie is so delicate that it can be wrapped and tied around the waist and worn as a top with this floaty skirt in the same fabric butcontrasting colour.
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This nightwear top with pelmet and studded detail is layered over a pleated asymmetric wardrobe staple dress and cinched in at the waist with a vintage buckled belt. Hair is secured in a bun with an upcycled lime-fruit net.
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Transformation
How many of your clothes have some kind of plastic in the material?
3 alternatives that may be
Switch-up the Plastic
in your closet in the future: #1 Pinatex - is an innovative natural textile made from pineapple leaf fibre. www.ananas-anam.com #2 The return of Nettle Fibres - it was used during the First World War when there was a shortage of other materials such as cotton. #3 QMilk Fibres - are made of 100% renewable raw materials and non-food milk. www.qmilkfiber.eu
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Photographer: Rex Martin
Transformation
What is that dress made of ? This creation, by fashion student Rohan Martin, takes
upcycling to a whole new level of transformation: “I created pleats going in two different ways to add some actual design features on the plastic material.” With careful design and precise stitching, anyone would have to double take to actually see that this dress was once supermarket shopping bags: “The sweetheart neckline gives detail, especially with the focus on the bright watermelon design. And I cinched the waist to accentuate the model’s figure.”
“I designed this sustainable dress to show that fashion can be whatever you want it to be; and that it’s not strictly limited to plain old fabrics. All the used bags used to create this dress were donated by friends and family.” Rohan Martin, fashion student at Alfred Deakin High School, Canberra
Photographer: Rajan Martin 57 Model: Erin Martin
‘Tis Trash-Chic Illustration: Cailin Muir @the_art_overload Words: Jordan Martin @byjpmartin
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Glitter As Pure As The Earth • World’s first 100% plastic free glitter • Cruelty-free, non-toxic & allergen-free • Water certified which guarantees biodegradability in any natural environment including water • Made of ethically sourced eucalyptus cellulose & biodegrades in just 30 days • It is FDA approved, cosmetic grade & feels 40% softer than normal glitter on your skin • It does not contain any aluminum or GMOs
THE MOST ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY GLITTER IN THE WORLD! 59
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