Itâ€™s Simply About Sustainable Fashion
Follow Alice down the rabbit hole
#1: Autumn|Winter 2020
Featured Designer: Rachael Cassar
Made in Peru
Interview: Lisa Portolan
We support the Sustainable Development Goals: It is the small steady steps towards a more sustainable future that are most effective - these shifts are achievable and lead to global change. So don’t feel guilty because you are not ticking every box every day. Simply start with some of the suggestions in this issue and be inspired by how you can still enjoy fashion but in a sustainable way that supports the world and all of us living in the world. “The content of this publication has not been approved by the United Nations and does not reflect the views of the United Nations or its officials or Member States.” 2
The fashion industry is a large contributing factor to many global issues including air quality, human working rights and landfill waste to name a few. And #trashionmagazine aims to raise as much awareness as possible, encouraging readers to have more #considerconsumerchoices and to #actnow towards these #globalgoals. Visit www.UN.org.au for more information. To download and share these icons follow the United Nations Guidelines. 3
CONTENTS Trashion Talk LOCAL 6 - Lost in Trashion Land Featured SHOOT Sponsored by @thegreenshed_underground 19 - Made in Peru ARTICLE @movingom Trashion Talk NATIONAL 22 - LP INTERVIEW @lisaportolan Trashion Talk INTERNATIONAL 26 - ZERO INTERVIEW @vkarellas 28 - Thrifting in L.A. INTERVIEW @jan.uddin Cover Credits: Creative Director & Wardrobe Stylist: Jordan Martin Photographer: Tina Nikolovski Head Make-up Artist: Natalia Michail Hair & Make-up Artist: Caleb Thorpe Models: Kim-Maree, Jayde Ryan, Cailin Muir & Matthew Gambrill We acknowledge all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island people: Respect and gratitude to the Ngunnawal people – the traditional custodians of the land – and extend this respect and acknowledgment to the elders; past, present and emerging. Disclaimer: #Trashion Magazine is published bi-annually (twice per annum) @byjpmartin. No part of #Trashion Magazine may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted to any form without permission. Views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of @byjpmartin, and are included to provide advice only. During publishing, images may be subject to a 15% variation. © Copyright of content belongs to individual contributors with the magazine copyright belonging to @byjpmartin. All rights reserved. Please share this magazine with others.
Trade 30 - Nothing Else Matters DESIGNER SHOWCASE @rachelcassar 39 - Is Sustainability the New Black ARTICLE @_katyb 40 - Worn out FASHION FEATURE Transformation 44 - Swap Shop ARTICLE @eco.styles 46 - Jack of all Trades – FASHION FEATURE @ememms 50 - Thrifty Chic @the_craftcafe 52 - Deakin Denim @adhs_textiles 56 - Truant Detour Daze FASHION FEATURE 58 – ‘Tis Trash-chic COMIC ISSUE #1 HASHTAGS: #consumecuriosity #relove #preloved #freelove #actnow #trashionmagazine #globalgoals
Hello … Here we are! A bi-annual digital magazine, simply about sustainable fashion: Together let’s take the #fofffashion and replace it with TRue TRends, fair TRade and TRansformation … moving forward into a sustainable fashionable future one step at a time ... with a little help from Trashion’s amazing contributors – who are tagged on the pages – You have all helped to create this awesome platform that projects positive shifts in the fashion industry. #gratitude Truly yours, Jordan P Martin
Magazine Graphic Designer: Chanel Chen @chanelcen Publisher, Editor & Creative Director: www.jordanmartin.biz @byjpmartin Proofreader: Ara E Lee
noihsarT ni tsoL dnaL 6
Lost in Trashion Land 7
â€¦ with an elusive cat
A QUEEN A RABBIT
Definition of sanity: to own a single shoe for each foot and a hat for the head. Definition of nonsense: to have a closet full of neglected shoes and hats.
Wearing anger on the slee envious of the lost world that o
eve over a heart of green; once was lush and flourishing â€¦
Off with the head of Fashion!
The true treasures in life are friends: T for ; for adventures under and untold; shining new perspectives o
There rground on style.
Behind the Scenes of Lost in
With thanks to shoot sponsor: The Green Shed Underground @thegreenshed_underground www.thegreenshed.net.au Creative Director & Wardrobe Stylist: Jordan Martin @byjpmartin www.jordanmartin.biz Photographer: Tina Nikolovski @tinanikolovski www.tinanikolovski.com Photography Assistant & B&W BHS Photographer: @eirhni.vsl Head Make-up Artist: Natalia Michail @natmichailmua FB: nmichail.mua Hair & Make-up Artist: Caleb Thorpe @calebthorpe_mua FB: calebthorpemua Models: Kim-Maree @movingom, Jayde Ryan @imjayderyan, Cailin Muir @kimysolo & Matthew Gambrill @matthew_ gambrill @devojkamodels With special thanks to Kim for assisting and chaperoning, and to Lachlan and the whole team at The Green Shed Mitchell for support and cooperation on the day of the shoot. You are all truly the best! 17
Mark our Words ... and locally sourced are the future in fashion for Canberra 2020 almost sounds like a time of the future ... and when it comes to moving with the times, surprisingly enough, advancements do not necessarily involve advanced technology. Looking to a future that works for humans and the land we live on is key to true advancements. And Julie Nichols recognised this back in 2008, when she launched the first Handmade Market in Canberra. Canberra had very few markets, and none that catered purely to Australian handmade items. Having little money, but a great business plan and vision, Julie began with a focus on local designers and just 35 stalls. Thousands of shoppers visited, making the Handmade Market an instant hit. Over a decade on, the market continues to flourish, and now has 290 stalls in two halls at EPIC, along with the central Conference Centre – offering homewares, gifts, fashion, accessories, and a gourmet food-hall full of street food stalls, creating a feast for the senses, as well as an unbeatable atmosphere of creativity and excitement.
Behind the scenes, there is a small, dedicated team of people who complement each other’s skills and personalities – all working together to bring the visitors the best in handmade creation and design. With a passion for supporting independent, small and creative businesses and connecting them to their target customers, the market has a nurturing relationship with its designers and producers who bring highquality workmanship and sensational customer service. “We push a niche of Aussie made!” Recently rebranded with a fresh new look into the future, handmade. is known nationally as a well-organised, supportive and friendly event, representing the best in Australian handmade design and produce. The market regularly attracts over 20,000 visitors from Canberra and further afield, and has an extensive and growing following on social media: Join the community on Instagram @handmadecanberra and visit the website for more information about handmade. and to pop the next date in your diary: www.handmadecanberra.com.au
“We love putting on the markets for YOU and we hope this shows.”
Made in Peru We have created a whole new set of fashionable good intentions when it comes to sustainability, environmental awareness, and ethical living. There are a whole range of buzz words and hashtags as s o c iate d with capsule wardrobes, upcycled dressing, carbon neutral eco-designers and ethically sourced textiles – all created to make us feel better about how shockingly wasteful we are as consumers.
revolution for textiles! Wow, what a mouthful. It’s our new environmental cause, isn’t it? Our rise to arms!
Kim-Maree Janszen travels from Canberra to Peru and shares what she believes actually lies between real sustainability and our fashionable sustainable lie …
At last, the news snippets covering sweatshops and pollution all in the name of fashion have brought all this damage to our attention.
But really what it boils down to is that we are wasteful. We are spoilt for choice. And we change our moral compass as often as we change our underIt is the whole plant-based-greenhouse- wear, which is ironic – and well, amongst emiss ions-t arget-ethically-sourced all of this, something has got to give. 19
Waste not wear not We have the rather unfortunate tag of being the generation that created and propelled disposable-throwaway-wearonce! It’s in – it’s out! It’s so hot right now!
way of life. And when it comes to making clothes last the test of time, they did it daily. In many countries, people are still doing this daily: Dyeing; spinning; creating textiles used to make clothes, and a whole range of products that we in the West buy and discard without a single thought. We basically lie to ourselves that it doesn’t matter. Or turn a blind eye to the impact of our consumer choices.
Fashion then turned it all around and spent up big; then ... we proudly blew our own trumpets at the revitalisation of trash and treasure; flea markets; ethical retail; getting all retro, and vibing the Everything old is new again vintage. We are masters of two opposing worlds; two opposing ideals of wanting For years, our parents and grandparents the ‘It Look’ over wanting the ‘It Cause’. recycled clothing, knitted and sewed. They took hand-me-downs and repurThen there are the feeder companies under posed them to fit the needs of a whole new a collective banner just to really legitimise wearer. A patch on a worn-through knee. it all – B Corp cashing-in on our temporary A fancy stitch to conceal a tear. Nothing guilt, or in most cases, our need to be seen was threadbare enough to discard. Knitas concerned global citizens; encouraging ting jumpers. Sewing skirts. How many us to hire designer, formal and corporate people today can sew on a button or a clothing rather than filling our wardrobes darn hole up in a sock? We have the menwith clothing that will need to be updated tality that it is easier to throwaway. How seasonally. This form of environmentally many people can sit and hold a conversasustainable dressing is appealing to our tion; sharing or retelling a funny or sad vanity, wanting to have the latest looks story or sit and ask another for advice? for a fraction of the price – it’s a hashtagfriendly carbon neutral option and means There is connection in real sustainable we don’t need to wear the same outfit twice fashion. A connection lost by many. – just shove it in a bag and post it back. I am guilty as charged, I don’t think twice These ‘desire for hire’ companies offer when shopping for clothes and herein the average consumer the status of being lies the problem – I look for the socially ethically superior insert ‘hashtag carbon pleasing options, what will spark a ‘like’ offset’. What the hashtag should read is or ‘comment’! I have missed the whole ‘a nice and niche little package that is bet- point of community, of sharing stories ter for the environment and even better and passing on knowledge – Simply for your social media account’. I’ve done talking to people. I should know how it too – hiring is a great option, but is it to sew on a button! I should have sat real sustainability? I’m not certain it is! longer with my Nan and learnt to knit! Living sustainably, up-cycling, off-thegrid sourced fashion, reusing and renewing are not new. We didn’t invent them! We have just glorified them and made it all an industry. Our grandparents and parents can show us a thing or two, because this is the way they lived, it wasn’t some new money-making, guilt-freeing solution to a massive mistake. It was a 20
My family heirlooms are clothing; a christening gown worn by generations of my very family members; booties knitted by my mum for my own girls. I cannot pass this knowledge on to my children, I can’t have this conversation with them. It so happens that we now need to be taught by those countries that still rely on the ‘old ways’ due to slower eco-
nomic opportunity. We need their tra- child? You also need to bury the wool ditional knowledge and skills to cre- and leave it for six months! Think of that ate clothing, textiles and community. the next time you gripe over the price of a blue shawl in a Peruvian market place.
I’m not saying we all run out and urinate on yarn to get the perfect shade of blue The knitting circles and sewing groups of old, created a community – This support, advice and knowledge still so rich for some have gone from nearly all Western countries. Women sitting around sharing and supporting each other. Clothing being brought back to life and passed on with pride. Stories of when and who has worn this or that. Our connections through clothes are well and truly threadbare; the spinning a yarn, learning to make vegetable dyes, and weaving stories into fabric that tells of family and of tradition. I was recently in Peru and saw firsthand a community working together to create fabric, which in-turn made clothing, and other fabric pieces that were sold to tourists. This trade was supporting the small village and was a traditional method of clothes making. This experience gave me a whole new perspective on what we consider to be environmentally aware; the recycling and working with nature (and not against it) were key. In Peru, the idea of environmentally sustainable living is not the same as it is in the West. The people of Peru may very well have the upper hand, and in the long-run, can teach the West a thing or two on getting life right when it comes to the environment and living sustainably ... and supporting each other.
You used what? to make that! So, did you know to get the colour blue into yarn, you need the urine of a small
Colours are created from plants and spices collected from the forest. The plants and spices are ground up, sometimes chewed and turned into paste and then into dye. The colours and patterns created represent families, and the villages in which they live. These designs tell their stories the same way the generations before them did. Each article made tells a story about the creator, their family and their way of life. Just as we had our elder siblings’ or friends’ clothes that had history, a story, colours, patterns and shapes in textiles.
Okay, so I’m not saying we all run out and urinate on yarn to get the perfect shade of blue, but it is possible that the old ways of creating, reusing and sourcing our clothing is not a new trend, but a return to valuing tradition, families, and creating community. So herein lies the dilemma – what to do over what to wear? How long will this trend of being ‘mindful dressers’ last? Maybe we will only really stick to this environmental cause of the day when we have no other choice; when the earth gasps one last time and industry is no longer in control of our wants and needs, but rather what is left of our environment. Or maybe we will stop and sit with our grandparents or older members of our families and take some time to listen and to learn, travel to far off places and be a part of a culture that values the environment around them, a culture that sees and uses what the earth has to offer rather than take it away. I just hope that in amongst all these causes, just one or two stick, for all our sakes. @movingom 21
LP An interview of stylishly interlaced words with Author, & Agency Lead, Lisa Portolan â€“ about consumerism, fashion, commodity, advertising, & joy
Why is there a correlation between fashion consumerism and our constructed concept of happiness? We live in a time defined by consumer culture – by that I mean the attainment of material goods to achieve or describe a particular lifestyle or identity. Consumer culture examines the social and cultural reasons behind the purchase of goods as opposed to the economic relationship. Put simply, why do you want to drive that brand of car? Or live in that particular house? Or in this case, wear that dress? What are the broader implications of that purchase, that attainment, and of course that message transfer? What does wearing that outfit say about you? In a post-modern world, traditional structures have broken down. Concepts relating to religion, community, or even a normative understanding of family are gone – which is not per se a ‘bad thing’. However, within this context, we frame our personas and we create identities based on consumerism – the consumption of product. We’re forever reaching for the next thing. For example, yesterday I wanted that bag, but today I want those shoes, and those sunglasses. They describe who I am – Me. They make me complete. They’ll make me happy. Or so we’ve been instructed by neo-liberalist ideologies to think. But will they make us happy? Or just kind of happy for a couple of
moments, before we dive back into the oblivion of the human condition? On the other side of the spectrum there is a magic to expression through fashion. The use of body as art and description. There is a joy to exploring colour, shapes, patterns and textures. An aesthetic ecstasy that can’t be ignored. It isn’t fashion per se that’s the problem, but fashion ‘consumerism’. The commodification of art as in an endless rotation of product.
What part does advertising play in our spending habits? Advertising has a significant impact on what we purchase and as a result on our spending habits. Most people think they are too clever for advertising to impact them in any way - and this is by no means an indictment on their cleverness. However, advertising is grounded in psychology. The general objective is to change a behaviour; an opinion, and of course within the consumer space to sell products. Zajonc, a theorist from the sixties through to the nineties, describes the “mere exposure effect”. This is advertising at its most basic level. Zajonc argued that the more someone is exposed to a product, thing or person, the more likely they are to prefer them or it. Think of it as the other side of the coin to “fearing the unknown”. In today’s information-rich age, we are constantly exposed to advertising. On television, on the Internet, via our mobiles, on apps, on billboards, in audio books ... it 23
virtually never ends! The conscious and unconscious impacts of that information transferal cannot be overlooked. And the correlation to our spending habits is paramount.
What is the relationship between retail therapy and guilty returns?
Can people create a sense of happiness through their sense of style?
Sometimes we all need a bit of retail therapy. Let’s not be too hard on ourselves. We spin around in a great big universe, we have no idea why we’re here or what we’re doing, we’re constantly plunged into existential crises that link to the human condition, and now the planet is also hurtling towards disaster thanks to our consumption. It’s all a bit bleak.
Let me start by saying: I love fashion! I don’t consume a lot. I’m incredibly conscious of my impact from a consumer perspective on the planet, and so I actually have a fashion rental subscription through GlamCorner. That means I can circle through as many outfits as I like, and they’re rentals. Fashion ecological footprint – relatively small. I also have a wardrobe that I add to sparingly, based on things I adore and cannot live without. For me, style is everything. We describe ourselves through our style and that doesn’t have to necessarily mean just fashion. We describe ourselves through our choice of words, our gestures, our peccadillos and so on. Style is art, and comes to define how we live. Dick Hebdige wrote Subcultures in 1979, which described how punk subculture came to define the UK in the 1970s: the culture, society and politics. For him, style – punk style in this case, wasn’t just a look – it was a social and political movement. It came to define resistance. So, I think style when embraced in the right sort of way, cuddled cerebrally, through the lens of art and joy, can most definitely create a sense of happiness. 24
Sometimes you have to cut yourself some slack. If purchasing that ring is going to bring you a whole heap of joy, then go for it. The real issue is the zombie-like purchasing, or the lashing out and maxing the credit card to feel something. You know exactly which behaviours are healthy and which ones are going to bring on the sweats and the night-panics post-purchase.
What are the best buying behaviours for overall balance? The greatest test for anything is joy. By joy I don’t mean fleeting ecstasy – I mean long, substantial joy: If it is going to bring you joy, then go for it. That said, a Lamborghini would probably bring me considerable joy, but it’s also going to break the pocket book. The Lamborghini won’t bring me joy if I have to sleep in it – because I no longer have a home. Be pragmatic with your buying behaviours. Disciplined with a tiny bit of slack around the edges. www.lisaportolanwrites.com @lisaportolan
The Green Shed is a private company contracted to manage both of Canberra’s public reuse facilities. At The Green Shed we gratefully accept unwanted items that can be resold. The Green Shed employ over 70 people. They divert around 8000 tonnes of waste per year from going to landfill. The carbon savings from The Green Shed activity offset more than half of the total ACT emissions from waste each year!
And The Green Shed contributes at least
$100,000 to local Charities each year too! The Green Shed management team, comprising Goran (Tiny) Srejic; Elaine Srejic; Sandie Parkes and Charlie Bigg-Wither, are passionate about growing the reuse and recycling industry. They operate several related ventures in the ACT, all of which seek to promote socially-responsible outcomes.
“Help us support the Community by getting involved.” For frequent daily updates or contact details - join them on Facebook or check out their website: www.thegreenshed.net.au
An interview of concise answers “wasting not even a comma” about zero-waste design with London-based sustainable designer Valentina Karellas
How do you manage to keep your designs zero-waste?
What challenges do you face trying to be an eco-designer?
As it’s knitwear, I shape a garment to the exact measurement needed, unlike woven fabrics, where a designer has to cut out a shape. That’s one element of zero waste. The other side is with the machine needed to thread some yarn – about two grams worth goes through the machine for the yarn to catch; this ends up wasted, and most factories discard this, as it’s so time consuming to re-use it. I keep all these fibres: I organise them by composition, then use in the accessories, embroidery or to make artistic shoes. Essentially, I keep everything and use it in many ways.
There are a few things; but one is getting repeat yarns, as I use surplus yarns. There may be just two kilos of a particular colour, which means the design can only be repeated a couple of times in that colour. But on the flip side, this means each time I change the yarn, the design becomes a bit different, making it more unique than the previous.
What sustainable solutions for your business operations do you adapt? Small things, for example, I only use UK suppliers for all my marketing materials. It costs more, but it’s worth it – keeping it local is important! Making everything in-house ensures that there is no waste whatsoever in the production process. Having a made-to-order sample is really great; this allows nothing to be overstocked, as this leads to discounting and eventual discarding of clothing. 26
The other obstacles, is trying to be seen by the masses: Most eco-designers lack the budget to market their great designs, competing with large luxury brands that have an eco-twist with millions of pounds of budget for marketing, is the toughest challenge to deal with. People like to buy from brands they know, or have heard of, or are well known. There are elements of trust and familiarity, especially if you are charging mid-tohigh-end prices. But my knitwear garments are lifelong pieces and worth the price for the time, uniqueness, and eco-friendliness. www.valentinakarellas.com @vkarellas
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Thrifting Photographer: @valentinasocci www.valentinasocci.com
Hollywood Actor, Jan Uddin shares his love for thrift shopping 28
When I was a kid, thrifting or buying cheap sh*t was something to be bullied about – but nowadays it’s a done thing. I’m proud to be smart with my money and creative with my style. Having said this, secondhand isn’t always cheap, but the cost isn’t always my focus – it’s more about if the item inspires me. As an actor, I see how costumes and clothing play a key role in projection of characters. I do buy new, but I am selective, and I’d personally rather buy from a thrift store because I get clothes with more character, compared with something mass-produced. And it’s also a more ethical path. Going thrift shopping is about the adventure for me – the search for something new. The surprise. The story. The history attached to a particular piece. Women mostly have a natural shape that can make a plain item look really good – as opposed to a guy who is basically a stick (varying lengths and thicknesses, but straight up and down mostly); and so, guys generally need clothes to make their bodies look good. I’ve always liked goodquality clothing: Most of the photos that are captured of me on Instagram, or at events, are of me wearing Versace silk, Ralph Lauren Country
leather items, or clothes from some kind of thrift shop. I get some stuff from ‘eBay’, (original eighties’ and nineties’ pieces) because I know what I am after, and it’s easy to search labels and categories – plus it just gets delivered. I frequent ‘Wasteland’ in Santa Monica, ‘Ventura’ in The Valley, and my fave is ‘Consignmen’ in Melrose. ‘Crossroads’ has some good stuff; ‘Goodwill’ too. I am kind of nomadic so I don’t own loads of stuff. I set up. Move on. Leave stuff behind. Clothes are my treasure. A part of me. Expression. I like preloved stuff, sure, but it isn’t always secondhand – some clothing is tagged and possibly just from an old season. I like rugged cowboy western items, and leather jackets – but these are pieces I would wear living in the UK where I grew up. However, thrifting in LA for me, is more about vest tops and capped tees, singlets, linens, and silk shirts – which, in hot weather, I wear open or layered, because I just don’t have the need to wear jackets in Los Angeles. For myself, my style is paramount to who I am in day-to-day life. And part of that, is being thrifty, because being thrifty, is pretty cool, right?! @jan.uddin
Nothing else ...
Photographer: @tinanikolovski Make-up Artist: Megan @m.d.artistry Models: Marko @devojkamodels & Chloe @chloessymss Slow Designer & Garment Quotes: @rachaelcassar Creative Director, Wardrobe Stylist & Writer: @byjpmartin
cape top “framed with structure and strength with a layer of FRAGILITY”
Sydney-based slow fashion designer Rachael Cassar’s unique garments have graced the likes of Twilight’s Kristen Stewart, and Lexy Panterra – amongst many. Rachael has deconstructed and reconstructed since establishing her label – utilising pre-adored pieces and off-cuts to create striking one-off fashion garments.
some of her powerful pieces, which beautifully project a story of balance between the phyiscal world representing the stages of piecing garments directly onto the mannequin, contrasted with otherworldliness – symbolising the new life the garment takes on through this delicate and dedicated process of upcycling.
top “unexpected SHIFTS around the body” 34
ef f d ma b od y or t e tl e ria ssl l yF RE E”
top “starry flashes with MOVEMENT”
IS SUSTAINABILITY THE NEW BLACK? If there was one trend that was ubiquitous across the 2019 fashion show season (surprisingly, it wasn’t polka-dots or florals), it was indeed sustainability. Illustration: @byjpmartin
Almost every brand had some form of sustainable practice in their show to shout about ... Gabriella Hearst announced her show to be carbon neutral; Gucci then took it further, declaring not only their show, but also their entire operations and supply chain would be carbon neutral from then on! Alexander McQueen upcycled the collection from their archived tulle and lace; Preen and Marni made their clothes from recycled plastic bottles. And finally, in Paris, Dior lined its runway with trees, promising to replant them as part of Paris-based eco projects. brands such as Prada and Chanel to ‘atheleasure’ brands including Nike and Adidas, and even fast While a push towards both awareness and action fashion labels like Zara and H&M ... on sustainability throughout the fashion industry is both positive and necessary, can we be sure that While admirable, the real effect is yet to be seen this is not simply a passing trend? Or will more – with no explicit consequence for not attaining action be taken in 2020? And while this progress the vague targets, nor third-party body policing is positive, is it enough to change the tide of the of brands in reaching their targets – there’s no massive problems in the industry as a whole? wonder some people consider this to be a flaw in The conversation has changed considerably in the world of sustainable fashion: Once seen simply as the shapeless hippy cousin of the clothing world, sustainability has taken leaps and bounds in the industry in recent years, with Livia Firth’s Global Fashion Agenda and The Green Carpet Challenge being a firm leader in the shift. The Green Carpet Challenge has been Firth’s passion project where her interest in vintage usage, upcycling, and the bid for more sustainable dresses became the catalyst of a movement among many Hollywood actresses. At a time when Climate Change rallies and the Paris Agreement has dominated column inches in the media; Firth’s visibility has finally helped consumers, and in turn, brands, move towards a more sustainable fashionable future. In fact, as soon as the shows ended in Paris, Kerring CEO, Francois HenriPinault, met with French President, Emmanuel Macron, at the G7 to discuss ‘A Fashion Pact’ with over thirty-two signatories – from high-end
the pact. Change is certainly needed.
According to the United Nations, – globally, fashion produces 10% of all greenhouse emissions; 20% of all water waste; and uses more energy than all aviation and shipping industries combined. Understandably, as consumers are becoming more aware of these stats and facts, they are wanting change: The 2019 ‘Pulse of the Fashion Industry’ report found that 75% of consumers surveyed, view sustainability as extremely or very important. Furthermore, a third of all consumers said they would actively switch brands for more ‘environmental and sustainable’ counterparts. Really, it’s no wonder that everyone from Marni to Missoni have touted new sustainability goals. While I am personally happy to see that the industry is moving in the ‘right’ direction, I do think a lot more still has to be done in the fashion sphere if we want to have a truly sustainable industry. But it’s a start, and at least that’s something! www.kathrynblom.com @_katyb
Photographer: @adamwowkstills Creative Director & Style Direction: @byjpmartin Model: @chloessymss @models101.com.au
Take a walk
on the wild
#notbuyingnew leather, fur or skins? Go secondhand at op shops and flea markets, or opt for faux-fur. #reducecarbonfootprints with high-quality ecodesigners instead of fast fashion retailers. Â #reduceplastic with pinatex made from pineapple leaf fibres not pleather because it is created with PVC. #wool can be replaced with bamboo, hemp or organic cotton, or choose retro styles from vintage stores. #nolivepluckeddown â€“ choose recycled or traceable. #savethesilkworm by buying from ethical brands.
Eco Style Queen, Nina Gbor has been hosting clothes swap events for a decade; she shares how you too, can get on the clothes-horse of swapping… It’s no secret that the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. Globally, we’re consuming about 80-billion brand new garments every year, which is 400% more than we were consuming just two decades ago. Australia happens to be the second-largest consumer of new textiles after the US.
85% of the new textiles we buy each year ends up in landfill
In 2017, ABC TV’s ‘War on Waste’ series reported that we throw out 6000kg of textile waste to landfill every ten minutes; 85% of the new textiles we buy each year ends up in landfill. It’s a vicious cycle of buy – wear once, twice or not at all – bin it – then buy new all over again. I’ve read a stat that the average woman only wears 20 – 40% of her wardrobe. While donating to op shops is a great way to divert from landfill, sadly, op shops are only able to resell about 15% of donated clothing.
environment. Swap parties are becoming increasingly popular in Australia, as well as around the world. If you’d like to try hosting your own swap party, as an alternative to traditional retail therapy, then consider this your basic how-to guide.
1. Find a venue Get a space which will comfortably hold the number of desired participants with a corresponding number of tables, chairs and racks.
2. Set a date Choose a date and time that will be most suitable for your target audience. Getting this right sometimes can be a process of trial and error.
3. Rules and guidelines Set rules and guidelines for how the swap will work and also set rules of conduct for participants. For example: •
number of items people can bring
Alarmed by these stats? Well there’s a partial but effective alternative. Enter the circular • quality of clothes accepted into the swap economy of fashion: Clothes swapping. A clothes swap is a sustainable fashion ritual • whether you will be using a token exchange system where people can exchange quality for like quality or activity where participants can exchange their quality preloved (secondhand) pieces • you might decide to flip a coin if two people want and acquire the same from others, in a fun the same garment 44
the ‘swap’ officially begins when the organisers declare the swap open
no fighting or insulting anyone at the event, otherwise the people involved may be asked to leave
4. Logistics Tickets – Decide if your swap is a paid event or free entry. You can use platforms such as Eventbrite or Humanitix for your guests to register. It’s a good way to create a mailing list if you will be hosting clothes swaps regularly. Theme – You might decide to have a themed swap for example; a fundraiser swap, summer clothes swap, costume swap, swap for dress sizes 16 to 26, swap for children’s clothes, formalwear swap and so on. You can make it more fun by adding the word ‘party’ to the promotional material, and then serve wine, play music, run a door raffle prize and/or add decorations to make your soirée even more attractive.
5. Invitations Send out invitations, create a Facebook event and post the event to all your socials. Invite people. If it’s a public swap, then ask people to share the event and invite their friends.
6. Promotion Leading up to the event, it’s essential to consistently post videos, text, and images to
spread the word; get your audience excited about the swap. This tip is useful to keep people engaged even if your swap is private or an internal swap like an office swap.
7. Gather swap materials Essentials: Volunteers (depending on number of expected guests), mirrors, racks, tables, hangers and so on. Optional: Refreshments, music, decorations.
8. On the day Use the first 30-minutes to welcome and register guests, and allow the organising team to sort, fold and hang clothing. It’s also essential to vet clothing and remove pieces that are not up to par. Your guests will thank you for this. It’s also crucial that everyone begins the swap at the same time, therefore let every guest know in the invitation and upon arrival that they can only begin taking pieces after the organisers have officially declared the swap open, usually 30-minutes after set arrival time.
9. Decide what to do with leftovers I usually donate leftover clothing to an op shop. You can also ask shelters for homeless people or shelters for victims of domestic abuse if they would like to receive the donations. Or you might even save some for another swap. @eco.styles 45
THIS PHOTO: Brown cashmeremix jacket: Lost Vintage Teamed with model’s own: Black pointed shoes: Wittner Black shirt: Universal Store FAR RIGHT PHOTO: Vintage 501 Levi’s jeans: Landspeed Records Teamed with model’s own Pin-stripe jacket: Cotton On
k of all Trades! Sugar Honey Ice Tea blogger and vintage fashion lover Emily Leseberg tells us why there’s something so special about having a statement piece in your wardrobe that’s different to what everyone else is wearing … “The best place to find a statement jacket is a dedicated vintage store. Op shops are great, but you have to rely on luck when looking for a key piece, whereas the people running a vintage store have already done the hard work of selecting the best pieces for the customers … Lost Vintage in Braddon is definitely one of my favourite places in Canberra for vintage shopping. The best styling tip I have for vintage jackets, is to let them do the talking. Keep the rest of your outfit relatively simple so that the amazing jacket can really shine. There’s no such thing as a styling faux-pas in my opinion, because if you wear something with confidence you can literally pull almost anything off!” 47
“This jacket is great quality and one of my best op-shop finds.”
Jaegar (UK brand) checkered jacket: Op Shop Teamed with model’s own: White skirt: Gifted by friend Block heels: Sports Girl 48
t can e k c a j e g “A vinta fit t u o n a m transfor from w o w o t g n blah-bori ” amazing!
Black Ford bomber jacket: Lost Vintage Teamed with model’s own: Black denim skirt: Upcycled
Photographer, Creative Director & Style Direction: @tinanikolovski www.tinanikolovski.com Model, Make-up & Wardrobe: Emily Leseberg @ememms
Thrifty Chic Momtaz Begum-Hossain provides creative ways to add colour to secondhand clothes
Did you know that the Add trims favourite way to update a garment is to stitch production of clothing is one of My on trims. Try doing this around collars and cuffs, the most polluting industries in the hems of skirts and trouser legs, or across jacket seams. Choose colours and a design that the world? An estimated one- you like; look for fringes, tasseled edges, varying widths, ethnic-inspired trims and ones that are hundred billion items are made vibrant and colourful. every year; millions of which are Embellish worn only a few times before From hand-stitching words to ironing on patches, ending up in landfill: A shocking there are endless opportunities to embellish your clothing. If you’ve got an unused feather boa at fact considering all clothing can home then try hand-stitching it along the collar of a jacket or cardigan. Or if you prefer your clothes easily be re-used. to shimmer, glue gems or apply heat fixed ones to There aren’t many valid reasons to throw away clothing: If there’s a hole, fix it; if there’s a stain, remove it; if you start to dislike it, give it away; or if it doesn’t fit, cut the fabric up and use it in another way. We all have a global responsibility to reduce the environmental impact of fashion, and one way to take this responsibility seriously, is by buying less new clothes. You don’t need to stop purchasing completely. If like me, you get pleasure from the excitement of acquiring ‘new’ things, then simply shop secondhand. You can go to physical stores or to markets, arrange a swap with friends or purchase online: The key is to keep an open mind. If you stumble on something that fits and looks good, but you’re not sure of the colour, then by upcycling a preloved piece you’ll find that re-using and rewearing clothing takes on a whole new level of style satisfaction. And adding colour is a great way to express yourself through what you wear.
Try Dye The quickest way to dye fabric is to use a washing machine dye. Or you could even try hand-dyeing – experiment with natural dyes using salt and vinegar to fix the colour. Berries work well to achieve pink shades. And test spinach to create green hues. Yellow turmeric colours instantly, so try this for variants of yellow.
add instant sparkle.
Button Switch For shirts or jackets in need of pizazz, replace buttons with colourful ones; they don’t need to be the same type – the less you follow rules the more original your design. Recent catwalk trends have included covering shirt collars in assorted buttons to create ‘crystallised chic’.
Use Applique This is a great way to use-up fabric scraps. You can either sew them on, in which case it’s best to fix them with fusible webbing and iron in place before you sew around the edges, or stick them on with fabric paint and line the motifs with fabric tube paints to prevent fraying.
Fabric Paints A pot of paint and a brush can work miracles. Whether you’re working on denim, leather, cotton or velvet, you can literally paint straight onto your garment to change its colour. Or try playing with pattern creation by using stencils. Use fabric paint pens for details and tube paints for 3D effects.
Photograph Sam Mulle Model: Selene Eve Designers: McKendry Rohan Mar
Photographer: Ignatius Chiware Model & Designer: Prayash KC
Photograp Model & D Ryeli Flem
esque-Torr : Charlotte & rtin
pher: Monika Mania Designer: ming
Photographer: Natasha Tilley Model: Jorja Lisle Designer: Imogen Thompson
Photographer: Emily Ashford Model: Talia Brass Designer: Rohan Martin
Photographer: Alyssa Fisher Model & Designer: Marlo Chapple
Textile and photography students from Alfred Deakin High School share their awesome denim designs in th #upcyclefashion project
The understanding of the wearability of the pieces is key â€“ and the students showcase garments from customisation, through to upcycling and complete transformation ... Including this bridal gown designed by Charlotte Jeffery and modelled by Rohan Martin The photographer, Capri Aviles Stansfield has captured the deta and movement of the dress. To see more designs from talent fashion designers of the future follow @adhs_textiles Thanks to teachers at Alfred Deakin High School: Sarah Baker and Scott Calder
Denim veil edge
Creating the shredded skirt 55
Truant Detour D #freelove
Borrow vintage hoodies from your big bro, and layer with plain tees. Or raid your parents’ closets and dust off original denim to pair with your old schoolshirts and casual footwear. Go full-on reversal and squeeze into a younger sibling’s funky shirt for the ultimate hand-me-up … just snip under the arms and resew to allow more movement in the garment.
Photographer: Dan Abro @passoutdan Creative Director: @byjpmartin Models: @imjayderyan @john_r_model @models101.com.au 57
Words @byjpmartin Illustration by Cailin Muir
LOL! My sister has taken minimalism way too far!
EACH PIECE RE-FORMED TO TELL A NEW STORY
handcrafting & upcycling of salvage materials to create a collection of metal & glass with soul VETRO E METALLO Showroom: 12 Park Lane, Braidwood, New South Wales @vetroemetallo | 0410 116 347 60