Immense - 2nd edition

immense Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean Magazine

SECOND ISSUE

LA VIE EN

BLEU THE ENCHANTED

fjord

ThE LAKE of fun and

Adventure Urban

RECiPE

BEATS

l a e d l a THE re TOURTIÈRE

from Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean!

Picnic Pleasures

29

Contents La vie en bleu

Family fun in Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean!

8

family

outdoor fun

10 12

12

13 14

14 15

32 33 34 35

A Boreal Adventure At Home at the Water's Edge The Hidden Face of the Fjord Do the Wave Playing with the Elements A Canyon Adventure Q&A

10 44

Photos: Jonathan Robert

culture 17 19 19 19

The Roaring 20s A Simple Beauty Portraits of the Forest Time Machine

on the road 21 22 23 23

23

Destination: Fjord Come Full Circle The Brew Crew Blueberries With a Tipsy Twist A Family Affair

local flavours

17

The Real Deal Ms. Louise's Secret A Gourmet Journey Picnic Pleasures

Photo: Alain Dumas

43

25 26 28 29

es: ords and pictur w in ey n ur jo A pages 50 irresistible

A Peninsula of Happiness The Eyes of the Kingdom Marine Sanctuary Around the Fjord

lake & fjord 38 40 41 41 42 43

Treasure Lake Seeing the Fjord Differently Outstanding Vistas 21 Great Reasons Superlative Surroundings The Four Seasons of L'Anse-Saint-Jean

city life 45 46 47 47

48 49 50

What's Hot in Saguenay A Signature Classic Saint-Félicien, Naturally One Oasis, One Thousand Illusions Alma the Energetic Passion a Gogo!

Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean by the Numbers

Photo: Jonathan Robert

Photo: Jonathan Robert

welcome

Tourism Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean 412, boul. Saguenay Est, bureau 100 Arr. Chicoutimi (Québec) G7H 7Y8 1 877 253-8387 www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca JULIE DUBORD Marketing Manager François potvin Marketing Assistant

Photo: Martial Tremblay

Photo: Charles-David Robitaille

Marie-Ève Claveau Marketing Assistant

Brand publisher www.yqbmedia.com Anne-Marie Boissonnault Creative Director Diane Laberge Main Contributor Amélie Côte Project Manager

Share the Fun The good folks of Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean are renowned for their joie de vivre. If you’ve been there even once, you’ll already know the region is almost as big as the hearts of the people who live there. There’s a great balance between the warmth of the Saguenéens and the Jeannois and the boundless landscapes—the two go hand in hand. So whether you’re sprawled on the beaches of Lac Saint-Jean or out having fun on the fjord, you’re sure to bump into someone ready to share their story with you. This second edition of Immense magazine offers a glimpse of the many riches of this part of the world. Culture, fine dining, outdoor fun, and bright city lights—there are so many reasons to fall in love with this festive, friendly corner of Québec.

Again and again…

simple as 1, 2, 3!

Planning a stay with us is as

1

Go to saguenaylac saintjean.ca for a copy of our official tourist guide.

2

Reserve activities and accommodation (don’t forget to read the Packages section at the end of this issue).

3

Friend us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter once you arrive.

Now sit back, relax, and start dreaming of your unforgettable stay with us in Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean, where fun is contagious!

Like the magazine? Share your comments with us! commentaires@yqbmedia.com

4 immense magazine

Andrée-Anne Hamel Art Director Jennifer Campbell Graphic Designer Dominique Laflamme Editorial Manager Peter McCambridge Translation STUDIO SEP7 INC. Copy Editing Yves Vaillancourt Photo Treatment TOMWEN JONES/COLAGeNE.COM Illustrations PHOTOGRAPHERs M. A. Bibeau, Karen Bouchard, D. Danvoye, Steve Deschesnes, Alexandre Deslauriers, C. Dubé, Alain Dumas, Mathieu Dupuis, J.C. Fortin, Dominic Gagné, Catherine Harvey, Gilles Lapointe, Marc Loiselle, Maurice Pitre, Jonathan Robert, Charles-David Robitaille, Jean Tanguay, Fabrice Tremblay, Jean Tremblay, Martial Tremblay Advertising Tourism Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean Immense is published by YQB Media for Tourism Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean. The next issue will be published in 2013.

A digital version of the magazine is also available online at www.magazineimmense.com and on iPad through the App StoreTM. Printed in CANADA By SOLISCO Copyright © YQB Media, 2012 YQB Media and Tourism Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean take all possible precautions to ensure factual accuracy. They are not responsible for errors in the information published. All reproduction, in full or in part, is forbidden without the written permission of YQB Media.

Please recycle this magazine.

immense Enjoy our magazinE

to-do list

order a free copy of immense Magazine at saguenaylacsaintjean.ca. download the magazine’s new interactive app. start planning My next unforgettable trip to saguenay–lac-saint-Jean!

immense zine Jean Maga Lac-Sai ntSaguenay–

SECOND ISSUE

LA VIE EN

BLEU D

TE THE ENCHAN

fjord

KE Th EfuLn A and of Adventure Urban

RECiPE

BEATS

l l dea THE rea Like the magazine?

E TOURguTenIayÈ–LRac-Saint-Jean!

Get it sent to your home.

Order your free copy online at saguenaylacsaintjean.ca.

fro m Sa

PM 12-07-12 3:47

SAGMAG12-Ma

1 gazine_EN.indd

welcome

Saguenay—Lac-Saint-Jean

TALK ABOUT AN OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND! One look at the map below and you’ll be packing your bags in no time.

So many attractions and must-see sites await!

Don’t miss!

1

4 5 6 22 25 26 27 30 31 3

Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon Destination Lac-Saint-Jean Véloroute des Bleuets Village historique de Val-Jalbert Parc national des Monts-Valin La Fabuleuse Histoire d’un Royaume Les Croisières du Fjord Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay Parc marin du Saguenay–Saint-Laurent Promotion Saguenay

Discover!

2

City of Saint-Félicien Musée du Fromage cheddar de Saint-Prime et Fromagerie Perron 8 Parc de la caverne du Trou de la Fée 9 Microbrasserie du Lac Saint-Jean 10 City of Alma 11 Parc thématique l’Odyssée des Bâtisseurs 12 Centre touristique Lac-Kénogami 13 Domaine Le Cageot 14 Centre d’histoire Sir-William-Price 15 Réseau muséal et patrimonial du Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean 16 Hôtel Chicoutimi 17 Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux 18 Hôtel La Saguenéenne 19 Hôtel Le Montagnais 20 Auberge des 21 21 Musée du Fjord 23 Auberge des Battures 24 Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste 28 Symposium international Jean-Paul Lapointe 29 L’Anse-Saint-Jean 7

6 immense magazine

Illustration: Tomwen Jones / Colagene

Visit Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean and treat yourself to kilometres of shoreline around a huge lake and a breathtaking fjord. And don’t forget to hit the bike paths and hiking trails—there’s tons of adventure to go around, for city and country enthusiasts alike.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 7

family La vie en bleu Here, fun’s not only for the young! Kids and adults will find plenty to keep them busy on the kilometres of beach circling the lake.

Simply slip on your swimsuit, slap on your flip-flops, and let ’er rip!

Emmanuelle, Marc-Antoine and Julia enjoy a gorgeous summer day on the beach.

Photo: Jonathan Robert

In Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean, the water is clear, the sand is warm, and a day spent with family is one to remember.

family

{ Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien }

A Boreal Adventure

2012

silver p riz winner e Gr

ands Prix du tourisme québécois

Photo: Jonathan Robert

Welcome to a park of gigantic proportions, where man and beast peacefully coexist.

Here, among grizzlies and Siberian ibexes, humans and nature come together, all free to roam to their hearts’ content.

At the Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien wildlife park, you can get a taste of the exotic, northern style. Here, the Borealie is given centre stage, starring unusual species such as Siberian tigers, Japanese macaques, and Bactrian camels.

And each encounter is truly up close and personal thanks to the zoo’s unique natural habitat that allows the animals to roam free (under a watchful eye, of course!). Cages and concrete are verboten, giving you a backstage pass to the animal kingdom over a series of winding paths painstakingly designed to offer the utmost in safety for both man and beast. Being neighbourly is the name of the game in this collection of stunning ecosystems!

A long walk off the beaten path Picture yourself on a walk through the morning mist, punctuated with

10 immense magazine

sightings of moose, caribou, and plains bison. It’s a photographer’s dream!

Next, hop aboard a safe, secure train for a closer look at North America’s loveliest specimens such as cervids and bovids as they roam free as the wind.

Or how about a close encounter with an American black bear for an experience you won’t soon forget! Visitors can observe the animals’ changing behaviours through the seasons. In fall, black bears prepare the dens where they will hibernate and give birth to cubs over the winter, and elk and moose butt heads, engaging in gravity-defying displays of power. In spring, fawns take their first steps, and deer begin to grow antlers. Summer signals the start of mating season for muskoxen, and come winter, the animals don their finest coats of fur to keep warm.

Snack time!

Mealtime is a must-see event! Chat with the zoo’s nature guides and learn more about the animals’ behaviour, the quirks of each species, and other juicy tidbits. Or walk a mile in the zookeeper’s shoes through the Junior Keeper for a Day program! (Check the website for scheduling information.)

A night in caribou country Sleep at the zoo? Why not! Spend the night in a prospector’s tent, surrounded by a herd of caribou. The adventure includes a guided forest expedition, sunset canoe paddle, themed meal, and dinner cooked over the campfire.

The zoo after dark Enjoy a nighttime tour in the company of nature guides and discover what happens to the animals when the sun goes down.

Your senses will awaken under the night sky!

Photo: Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien Photo: Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien

Photo: Jonathan Robert Photo: Jonathan Robert

What is the Borealie?

The term Borealie refers to land where the average temperature of the coldest month is below -3 degrees Celsius. It stretches across the northern portion of the globe where the earth freezes for more than three months a year. The Borealie runs from Canada to Alaska and northern Russia, and includes northern portions of some countries in Europe and Asia, Japan in particular.

Did you know?

Fun for all ages The zoo is a great place to learn and have fun. There’s truly something for everyone, including a splash pad, petting zoo, maze, and riverside picnic area for little ones, as well as lessons on history, nature trails, culture (particularly in the Mongolian section), interpretive panels on animal species, and information from the zoo’s own nature guides for young and old alike.

Once again this year, the Boreal Summer Camp is back! Featuring a program based on biology and natural science, it offers kids age 8 to 12 an unforgettable week of fun at the heart of the Borealie. zoosauvage.org

Photo: Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien

have and macaques rs ge ti o, zo e At th each!

2 ich to roam…

4000 m in wh

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 11

family { Centre touristique du Lac-Kénogami }

At Home at the Water’s Edge Photo: Steve Deschesnes

Pack your bags! Summer vacation has arrived, and it’s time to get out and enjoy the weather. Destination? The Haut-Saguenay, the place to be this summer! Centre touristique du Lac-Kénogami is a huge park sprawled across a fragrant, wooded peninsula located on the new cyclable section of Route des Bâtisseurs. It is surrounded by an immense 55 km2 lake, 136 islands, and a gently sloping beach strewn with icing-sugar sand compact enough to build castles that last for days!

It’s the perfect family destination! Whether you choose to sleep in a tent or one of 11 cabins, seven of which have lake views and private beaches, you’re sure to enjoy your stay at Extra, extra! this paradise for landlubbers and water lovers alike.

For an unforgettable— Canoe, kayak, pedal boat, or fish on Rivière and low fuss—camping Pikauba, comes along with games of skills or trip, try out one of the hicking through the centuries-old pine forest. park’s 10 Hékipia tents.

They’re fully furnished Whatever the time of year, play it safe in the sun and equipped with by slapping on some sunblock or staking out a everything you need shady spot in the trees at the beach’s edge. to prepare your own meals, including a stove and fridge. Perfect for family fun!

sepaq.com/kenogami

{ Musée du Fjord }

museedufjord.com

12 immense magazine

Photo: Fabrice Tremblay Photo: Musée du Fjord

Photo: Jean Tremblay

To learn more about this natural wonder, simply visit Musée du Fjord, where visitors of all ages can dive headfirst into the depths of an extraordinary marine adventure. Featuring a giant 55,000-litre aquarium, a vivarium, an interactive basin, and a touch screen that lets visitors interact with fish in a virtual aquarium, the museum is teeming with ways to explore the 460 species of fish and invertebrates that populate the depths of the fjord. Residents of note include five types of starfish and rare species such as the Atlantic wolffish and Greenland shark, the second-largest shark in the world.

New this summer, enjoy an immersive multimedia experience in 3D and depart on a journey to discover the fjord and its biodiversity.

Step aboard the NAVIS vessel in a room decked out in the latest high-tech equipment. 150º big Now showing! screen TVs equipped with one-of-a-kind, of the Saguenay Fjord glasses-free 3D technology whisk viewers Journey to the Heart through a 30-minute tour of the fjord and its the film ois Pouliot director of nç history, from its birth—950 million years ra -F an Je by m fil A 3D ago!—through the ice age, to today. Individual a Grande Séduction) screens offer answers to all your 1,001 questions Seducing Dr. Lewis (L about the fjord’s mysterious depths.

Photo: Karen Bouchard

The Hidden Face of the Fjord

{ Le Montagnais – Hôtel multiservice }

DO THE WAVE Welcome to northeastern Québec’s largest hotel complex, complete with a water park! When it comes to choosing how to spend your time, simply follow your heart!

Le Montagnais is

50

th tyle! r 50 in s u o g n ti a r b We’re cele

2012

silv er p rize wi Gran nner ds Pr me q ix du uébéc ois

touris

Le Montagnais is paradise for the whole family: kids, teens, and parents will all have the time of their lives in the enormous indoor pool, featuring an ice-cold waterfall, two hot tubs, two kiddie pools, a 33-piece splash pad and Super Splash centre, and a gigantic water bucket that pours down water from 7 metres overhead. Prefer to swim in the sun? Le Montagnais also offers an outdoor pool, all at the heart of Saguenay!

A stay at Le Montagnais means fun for all! While the kids are at day camp or Aquafun sessions, parents can unwind at the health centre.

Come evening, Le Légendaire restaurant offers a wide selection of meat and seafood dishes in addition to several family-friendly offerings. With the kids hard at work on their activity books, there’s time for cocktails and dessert! Be sure to try the crème brûlée trio

and Réveil sur le Fjord, a dessert made of rich maple mousse atop maple génoise cake, garnished with—you guessed it!—a maple coulis.

When it comes to getting a good night’s sleep, the economy class rooms are as easy on the wallet as they are enticing to teens, who’ll be up and running on our wifi network in no time to chat with their friends.

Le Montagnais is a hotel and destination par excellence, brimming with 12,000 sq. ft. of pure pleasure and family fun! lemontagnais.qc.ca

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 13

family

{ Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux }

You really won’t be able to fit it all in!

Make the most of your visit by sleeping onsite, in a shelter, on a campsite, or in a tree house…

Photo: Catherine Harvey

If you like to play with fire, you’ll love Cap Jaseux for its adrenaline-pumping thrills and chills! Summertime offers up a variety of options, allowing you to push your limits to the extreme (or maybe just kick back and relax) on the water, land, or in the air. And whether you’re going up or down, you’re sure to enjoy the view!

Looking to get your feet wet? Paddling the fjord offers breathtaking views and access to secluded beaches.

Or how about a breath of fresh air? Try strapping into one of eight jumbo ziplines and tapping your inner superhero. You can double the fun by tackling the Fjord en Arbres high ropes course—try the Extreme circuit!—and end your day on an extra high note. Later, come down to earth on the via ferrata, where you’ll travel along the rock face suspended from a harness and cables, taking in vistas of the fjord on a two- to three-hour family adventure.

Non-stop adventure

2012

bronze p riz winner e

Grands Pr ix du tourisme québécois

Photo: M-A Bibeau

Playing with the Elements

capjaseux.com

{ Parc de la caverne Trou de la Fée }

A Canyon Adventure

You’ll love the exciting trails, picturesque panoramas, and the enchanted feel

Photo: Prisme Équipements Canada

of the Coulée verte trail.

14 immense magazine

Get ready to do your best Indiana Jones impression and discover the charms of Rivière Métabetchouane.

Your day begins on the main trail, which leads all the way to the walkway next to the old dam at Martine falls. You’re now at the start of the path that leads all the way to the ruins of an old hydroelectric station from the 1920s. A suspended bridge connects the ruins to the walkways perched atop the rocks and firmly anchored in the rock face 8 m above the roiling waters of the Métabetchouane. Return via the Coulée verte trail, an oasis of green carpeted in moss and bedecked with ferns. Starting this summer, you can travel roundtrip on one of two zip lines spanning 350 m from shore to shore and suspended 50 m above the rapids. Don’t forget to pack your lunch, and be sure to visit the lookout for spectacular vistas of the canyon! cavernetroudelafee.ca

{ Réseau muséal et patrimonial du Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean }

Q&A Kids ask a lot of questions. But how do you answer all 1,001 and still have fun?

Easy! The Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean Museum and Heritage Network offers all the answers in the form of games and interactive displays. Hop in your car and head wherever your heart desires. There are 18 destinations ready to fill you with knowledge and wonder, wherever you end up. Bon voyage!

18

information stations to find the answers to all these questions and more.

Centre d’histoire et d’archéologie de la Métabetchouane Illustration: Tomwen Jones / Colagene

Centre d’histoire Sir-William-Price Centre historique des Sœurs de NotreDame du Bon-Conseil de Chicoutimi Centre d’interprétation de l’agriculture et de la ruralité Centre national d’exposition Ermitage Saint-Antoine Moulin des Pionniers

Industrial heritage Where does electricity come from? How is pulp made into paper? What’s the Trou de la Fée? Who are Télesphore Demers and William Price?

Religious heritage Who are the sisters of Notre-Dame-duBon-Conseil? What’s a pilgrim? What does Saint Anthony of Padua have to do with lost objects?

Cultural heritage Who wrote the novel Maria Chapdeleine?

Where does the writer’s quill come from? Can you be both a painter and a barber? Can you really have a house in a museum? How come those guys are allowed to paint on the walls?

Agricultural heritage How do you make cheese? How did our ancestors live? What kinds of crops did they grow? What are we growing today?

Aboriginal heritage How do you spell Mashteuiatsh, and what does it mean? Can we go to New France?

What’s a colony? When was the 17th century?

What’s a trading post?

Natural heritage Can I touch a starfish? What’s a hermit crab? Are there really sharks in the fjord?

Are there still ghosts in Val-Jalbert?

Are we at the zoo yet?

Musée amérindien de Mashteuiatsh Musée de la Défense aérienne Musée du Fjord Musée du fromage cheddar Musée Louis-Hémon L’Odyssée des Bâtisseurs Parc de la caverne Trou de la Fée La Pulperie de Chicoutimi/ Musée régional Site de la Nouvelle-France Village historique de Val-Jalbert Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien

reseaumuseal.com

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 15

culture

Behind the wheel of his 1926 Dodge, the mayor travels back in time through the history of Val-Jalbert.

Photo: Jonathan Robert

ONCE UPON A TIME… There’s no shortage of local colour in the Saguenay!

The warm, friendly locals are brimming with stories to tell in the charming accent that serves as the region’s calling card. Simply follow your guide!

Photo: Jonathan Robert

2011

Tra Exp velle erie r n W Cana inne ce r dian Awa Tourism rds

{ Village historique de Val-Jalbert }

The Roaring 20s In 1920, Val-Jalbert was a modern company town with enough get-up-and-go to be likened to Boston. Today, it’s shaking off the ghosts of its past to recapture its former glory.

Once one of the only towns in Québec to possess a development plan, Val-Jalbert has finally lived up to its potential thanks to a $21 million investment and three years of hard work. The result is neat, tidy, and extremely up-to-date, while still allowing visitors to while away the time by turning back the clock. Make the most of your visit by spending the night on site in unique four-star accommodations with a contemporary twist. Need to see it to believe it? Then pack your bags and head for Val-Jalbert, where’s there’s fun in store for everyone who visits.

Long live technology!

You can explore Val-Jalbert on foot with a GPS or aboard a trolley.

This year you can download an augmented-reality video guide for your smartphone to rummage through the archives and learn more about the town. Upon arrival, check out the multimedia presentation on

Val-Jalbert’s history, and then head to the mill to explore the touch screen dioramas that illustrate the site’s transformation.

Hey, Mr. Mayor!

From the post office and the general store to the convent school, there’s no shortage of occasions to rub shoulders with notable townsfolk. You won’t want to miss Madame Linteau, postmistress and inimitable gossip. From her perch behind the counter, she craftily offers to read letters for customers who can’t read them themselves. Nosy Madame Linteau! A visit to the convent school will bring you in contact with its students and a strict Mother Superior who considers smiling an unnecessary evil—and the priest agrees.

Ensconced behind the wheel of his vintage car, the mayor is a constant presence. As he pulls up outside the general store— which he owns, of course—he immediately sets to work stumping

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 17

culture Val-Jalbert is an honest-to-goodness company town complete with a general store, colourful townsfolk, majestic waterfall, and convent school, where past and present rub shoulders today.

Photos: Jonathan Robert

Photo: Village historique de Val-Jalbert

for the next election. To learn more about all of these fascinating characters (based on real townsfolk!), simply drop in for a visit.

(Please note that the characters speak French only.)

18 immense magazine

A natural wonder Val-Jalbert is more than just a town. It’s also a source of abundant natural beauty.

Highlights include the waterfall, which stretches even higher than its cousin in Niagara! Perch atop the glass-bottomed lookout and meditate before the turbulent waters. The site was produced by the major tectonic shifts that also carved the basin of Lac Saint-Jean, and can be explored in a variety of ways, including by hiking trail, cable car, or a total of 764 steps. Once up top you’ll enjoy breathtaking views and some of the region’s oldest rock formations, dating back to the Precambrian era.

Val-Jalbert at night Visitors can choose to sleep on site in one of 24 well-appointed rooms at the heart of the village. Whether you stay on the top floor of the general store or in a rustic-chic renovated heritage home, you’ll enjoy backstage access to the town. Grab a flashlight and head to the mill to admire the play of light on the falls. At Le Moulin restaurant, chef Carl Murray cooks up simple regional dishes with a twist.

With each day comes a new menu featuring delights such as pork filet from Perron and fine herbs from Dolbeau. And chef Carl has a touching story of his own! The grandson of a former mill employee, he tips his hat daily to the portrait of his grandfather hanging on the dining room wall. Although Val-Jalbert can no longer truly be called a ghost town, the spirit of Grandfather Murray lives on. valjalbert.com

Photo: Jonathan Robert

{ Centre d’histoire Sir-William-Price }

Portraits of the Forest

{ Symposium international Jean-Paul Lapointe }

A Simple Beauty The late painter Jean-Paul Lapointe left a lasting mark on Saguenay’s painting community. Today, his art lives on through the palettes of the many representational and contemporary artists who pay him tribute. This seventh edition of the symposium in his honour was organized by a Saguenay native, singer, writer, and actress Louise Portal.

The event is to be held in the port of Chicoutimi, where 34 artists, painters, and sculptors will gather from all over to celebrate the theme of “simple beauty.” Workshops, artist meet-and-greets, booths, and activities will fill the site along the shore of Rivière Saguenay. Programs will be available for $2 and there will be a draw for a work of art.

June 20 to 24, 2012 symposiuminternational-jplapointe.com

“Beauty is meant for sharing.”

Staff at the Centre d’histoire Sir-WilliamPrice historical centre were blown away by the pastel drawings of artist Francesco Iacurto, collected from descendants of former Price factory workers. Nineteen portraits used on the company’s Christmas cards as a token of appreciation to its hardworking employees are the focus of a new exhibition at the centre. Enjoy an intimate look at the loyal workers, depicted through Iacurto’s deeply touching drawings and museum-style displays. Presented in the Anglican chapel in Kénogami (which dates back to 1912), the exhibition is a tribute to one of Québec’s most powerful pulp and paper dynasties.

All in a Day’s Work, from 1930 to 1960 sirwilliamprice.com

— Marc Chabot

{ L’Odyssée des Bâtisseurs }

Time Machine

2012

prize gold ner n i u w Prix d

s Grand québécois me touris

Aventure de l’eau, d’hier à aujourd’hui (The Adventure of Water, from Yesterday to Today) is an incredible experience from start to finish! Climb to the top of an old cistern (25 m off the ground), then into a water tank that has been transformed into a 360º projection room. Your senses will be on high alert as they are battered by the wind, rain, and snow… In Aquavolt, a 12-minute film that is as electrifying as it is educational, the story of water helps visitors learn more about the region and the history of hydroelectricity in Lac-SaintJean over the years and the seasons. The film also spotlights the people behind the story, the plot driven by a nutty professor not unlike Doc Brown from Back to the Future.

The top of the tower takes in a surprising view of Rivière de la Grande Décharge and the L’Isle-Maligne hydroelectric power station. The water tower, which used to hold up to 450,000 litres of water, is another of the attractions, and the museum can be found in the old town hall.

The permanent exhibit Au-delà de l’eau (Beyond Water) takes an entertaining look at what water has meant for the region, hydroelectricity facilities, and water management. Walking paths, aerial adventure courses, and an old-fashioned photography course add to the fun.

Aquavolt, June to September odysseedesbatisseurs.com

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 19

on the road

Photo: Jonathan Robert

HIT THE ROAD, JACQUES! There’s a million and one ways to get out and explore—like hitting the road! Whether you choose to travel by water or by land, it’s important to just go with the flow.

We’ve put together a list of the region’s top dining destinations and must-see sites to help you build a trip you won’t soon forget.

{ Promotion Saguenay }

DESTINATION: FJORD

Illustration: Tomwen Jones / Colagene

This summer, take to Route du Fjord: 300 km of delights to discover, lilting accents, and gourmet­pleasures.

Be sure to pack your camera to capture the capes, cliffs, and charming communities, including two of Québec’s crown jewels, L’Anse-Saint-Jean and Sainte-Rose-du-Nord.

No matter which shore you’re on, the fjord has been blessed with two good sides. Cheese!

Travel in style and comfort aboard a deluxe minibus for the day. Enjoy guided tours of the fjord and villages all the way to L’Anse-Saint-Jean, where you can choose to catch a mini cruise for the return trip.

By water By river shuttle, boat tour, sailboat, or sea kayak, discover the fjord and its many splendours on departures leaving from a number of villages and towns.

By foot

By air

Take a hike on one of the many paths at Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay!

It is home to 100 km of trails for hiking from shore to shore on two- to nine-day trips, between RivièreÉternité and Tadoussac.

Fly high in a helicopter and enjoy a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the stunning fjord and its rocky, almost surreal landscapes. It’s truly a sight to behold, and one that’s 100% made in Québec.

Photo: Alain Dumas

Strike out on your own!

And don’t miss a single detail thanks to the audio guide available free of charge at all tourist information centres and national park welcome desks.

By bus

Photo : Alain Dumas

By car

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 21

on the road Supersize it!

A new 72 km leg is being added to the path this summer, stretching from Métabetchouan– Lac-à-la-Croix to Rivière Saguenay (in Jonquière), and passing through Hébertville. Breathtaking landscapes guaranteed!

COME FULL CIRCLE BEST OF

You’ll need more than a day to fully circle Lac Saint-Jean, so why not take your time and enjoy it!

The 256 km fully paved path is best enjoyed as a multi-day experience, giving you time to savour local delicacies and check out the many tourist attractions available in this warm, bustling region.

Winding through over 15 towns and an aboriginal community, the route offers a little slice of heaven with accommodation options all along the way. Whether you prefer B&Bs, inns, hotels, or your very own tent, you’re free to go as refined or as rustic as you like. And just when you thought things couldn’t get any better… there’s also a service available to transport your bags.

Give your aching back a break—and let us take it from here! veloroutedesbleuets.com

Landscapes Prepare to take your prettiest pictures in and around Chambord.

Family picnics Visit the new Roberval marina and enjoy a softserve cone for dessert.

Beaches Explore a new pirate ship with the kids at Plage Belley.

Photo: M. Tremblay

Photo: M. Tremblay

Photo: Gilles Lapointe

Blueberry picking Northern Dolbeau-Mistassini is the area’s best-kept secret for u-pick berries in August.

Romance Enjoy a rendez-vous à deux at the water’s edge at Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon.

Photo: M. Tremblay

Surprises Stroll along 500 m of boardwalk hovering above Rivière Péribonka.

22 immense magazine

Online Buy a Véloroute des Bleuets bike jersey just like the one worn by ambassador Yvan Martineau.

Photo: M. Tremblay

{ Véloroute des Bleuets }

Photo: Jonathan Robert

{ Microbrasserie du Lac Saint-Jean }

{ Domaine Le Cageot }

Celebrating ou r th

5

anniversary!

The Brew Crew

This brewery’s predilection for Belgian brewing techniques is a testament to its desire to sow the seeds of the millennia-old tradition in both the local culture and palate. Of the four artisanal beers made right here in Saint-Gédéon, the Tante Tricotante (knitting auntie)—also the brewery’s latest release—has quickly drawn a devoted following for its densely woven head, honeyed glow, and assertive hops. Grab one of the 80 seats in the pub and choose from the house specialties, the Boutefeu, Vire-Capot, or Gros Mollet, or any one of the six tasty options on tap.

This summer, the bar is expanding its indoor and outdoor spaces and adding a boutique showcasing specialty items such as a 1.5 L magnum. Psst! There’s more than just beer, too—catch free shows every Friday night all summer long, and enjoy big-name performers on Saturdays through July and August ($). microdulac.com This summer, the microbrewery is celebrating its 5th anniversary with live shows on Friday and Saturday nights through July and August.

gourm et delights

Blueberries With a Tipsy Twist Lac-Saint-Jean has more than its fair share of Tremblay families, but the branch settled on Chemin Saint-André in Jonquière is one of a kind. To visit, you’ll travel down an idyllic road with vistas so warm and inviting you’re sure to work up a thirst—just in time for your arrival at Domaine Le Cageot, a picturesque vineyard run for over a decade by Donald and Pierre-Philippe Tremblay.

Both father and son have dedicated themselves to a true labour of love: cultivating indigenous fruits and transforming them into terrific tipples—liqueurs and wines made from blueberries, raspberries, and currants that are also made into jams, jellies, syrups, and salad dressings. One of their products, a sparkling blueberry wine named Le Cageolais, took home the bronze medal at the All Canadian Wine Championships. domainelecageot.com Le Bleu de Roi This blueberry aperitif was selected by the Château Frontenac to make a special kir cocktail in honour of Québec City’s 400th anniversary… and has stayed on the menu ever since!

{ Musée du fromage cheddar de Saint-Prime et Fromagerie Perron }

A Family Affair

Travel back in time over five generations with Rachel Perron— in the role of her grandmother, Marie Lamontagne—as your guide. Her connection to the past makes the already fascinating story of one of Québec’s oldest cheese-making families all the more enticing. For a lesson on traditional cheese-making practices, visit Musée du fromage cheddar, the cheddar cheese museum in Saint-Prime, on the site of the old Perron cheese dairy, the sole survivor of the area’s dairies from the late 19th century.

Musée du fromage cheddar is the perfect place to stop for a snack between the Saint-Félicien zoo and Val-Jalbert.

The building, constructed in 1895, has been transformed into a museum that can be toured in just an hour, complete with cheese tastings and a chat with Albert, grandson of Adélard, the family’s cheese-making pioneer. Next, pop into Fromagerie Perron next door to stock up on pretty packages of cheddar available in six different varieties (try the Brambasia cheddar for a real treat!) or soak up the sun on the patio. museecheddar.org fromagerieperron.com

Le Marie souris Talk about gilding the lily… These mouse-shaped chocolates created at the Rose Élisabeth de Métabetchouan chocolate shop are made with Perron cheese. A Museum exclusive!

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 23

local flavours

Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean’s signature tourtière has made quite a name for itself! Its secret lies in a generous helping of love and deep respect for family traditions.

Photos: Alexandre Deslauriers Stylisme : Ysabelle Mercier

a taste of happiness Heady with the aromas of blueberry jam and divinely seasoned tourtières, the Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean region is a boon to the travelling foodie.

Recipe

the real deal In Saint-Fulgence, Dolorès Gagnon has been baking tourtière just so for decades. Her secret? Ground meat, loads of cubed potatoes, and her trusty Le Creuset pot.

Dolorès learned the art of making tourtière from her mother. Today, her pies rival her grandmother’s, who learned the tricks of the trade from her own great-grandmother. As the saying goes, why change a winning recipe? Especially when so much love goes into every bite!

Ingredients Serves 10 • 2 ½ lb. medium ground pork • 2 ½ lb. potatoes, in ½" cubes • 1 large onion, minced • Salt and pepper, to taste • Pastry dough (top and bottom)

Potato cubes

Actual size!

1/2 inch

Instructions

CUBED VS. GROUND MEAT CUBED

Combine ground pork and onion with salt and pepper.

Refrigerate overnight.

“It’s simply the best!”

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Grease inside of casserole dish and lid (to keep pastry from sticking) with lard (Dolorès prefers Tenderflake!).

Marinate meat (generous cubes of beef, pork, and veal—or best of all, moose!) with onions, salt, and pepper for 48 hours. Bake for 1 hour at 450˚F, then cook overnight at 250˚F, and through the following day at 225˚F for a spectacular supper!

Over medium heat, gently cook pork, adding water as needed to prevent sticking. Add potatoes and reduce without overcooking.

Meanwhile, prepare and roll out top and bottom layers of pastry dough. Place bottom in casserole. Add meat and potatoes, taking care to strain off excess liquid. Cover with top sheet of pastry.

Seal tightly and, using your finger, punch a hole—in the shape of Lac Saint-Jean!—in the centre.

Cook for 30 minutes at 350˚F. Reduce heat to 225˚F for another 5 to 6 hours. Check periodically to ensure pastry isn’t stuck to the lid.

- Johanne Simard, Chicoutimi-Nord

GROUND “It just tastes better!”

- Dolorès Gagnon, Saint-Fulgence

Ground meat cooks down until creamy and blends with the potatoes. Twenty-four hours in the fridge and a low, slow finish are the keys to perfection!

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 25

local flavours

Photos: Jonathan Robert

Ms. Louise’s Secret Her pastry shop, a veritable institution in L’Anse-Saint-Jean, is a small business that’s open all year. In summer, Ms. Louise hires seven helpers to bake up to 150 pies per day.

For the past 26 years, her blueberry and sugar pies have earned a loyal following, with some customers taking home up to 20 pies at a time.

She credits her success to Robin Hood flour and over 200 gallons of wild blueberries from Petit-Saguenay.

26 immense magazine

Ms. Louise’s team bakes up to 150 pies per day.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 27

Photo : Alexandre Deslauriers

28 immense magazine

Photo: Jonathan Robert

A Gourmet Journey Whether you’re a true blue epicure or just like to indulge every once in a while, you’re sure to love this local route that’s dotted with bakeries, pastry shops, chocolate shops, and microbreweries (with 60 varieties of specialty beers) and is home to more than 40 kinds of luscious cheeses perfect for pairing.

From the blueberry patch to the oven, get your fill of traditional recipes and kitchen tips from local cooks. See it all for yourself by picking up a map of the Arômes et Saveurs (aromas and flavours) circuit at the tourist information office, or download a copy online at saguenaylacsaintjean.ca.

Photo: Alexandre Deslauriers

local flavours

Picnic Pleasures

Photo: Alexandre Deslauriers

Pack your basket and spread out your blanket at any one of many lovely spots for an al fresco meal Ă deux or a family feast.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 29

outdoor fun FROM BLINDING HEIGHTS TO DARK DEPTHS Wide open spaces as far as the eye can see.

Four enormous national parks reveal their splendour, from the highest heights to 300 m beneath the fjord.

However active you like to be, this region has something for everyone.

With so much to do on land and out on the water, fun awaits around every corner.

Endless horizons from high above Parc national des Monts-Valin.

Photo: Parc national des Monts-Valin, Fabrice Tremblay, SĂŠpaq

outdoor fun { Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon }

A Peninsula of Happiness

Photo: Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon / Maurice Pitre

The peninsula at Pointe-Taillon is more beautiful than you could ever imagine.

But its wild, exclusive views have to be earned: you’ll need to hike or bike out there to enjoy them. To lay claim to a little piece of paradise, you’ll have to act quickly— there’s no shortage of people ready to reserve a spot of their own every year on the private sandy beach stretching for more than 20 km along the Lac Saint-Jean shoreline. Just one word of warning: after a single visit, you may find yourself coming back again and again!

3

New this summer

reasons to be happy

Beach

The sand on the beaches at Pointe-Taillon is finer than any you have ever felt between your toes. Anyone who loves to be at the water’s edge will lap up the tranquility of a delta that barely breaks the surface. And there’s no need for a wetsuit or a tuque and mitts!

No spring tides or huge waves either.

Children paddle safely, while their sandcastles have only to hold on to their foundations. Rent a kayak or pedal boat and set sail on a voyage of discovery around the islands surrounding the peninsula. Heavenly!

32 immense magazine

Campsite Each campsite is as charming as the next. Bike down to the water’s edge for a quiet night’s sleep in the depths of the countryside far from prying eyes.

Fifteen Huttopia tents fill up quickly every year so you’ll have to act fast to reserve your place in the sun.

And a single night will quickly attune your ears to the sweet sound of silence under the stars.

A new part of the park boasts five Huttopia tents and two cabins (accessible by car): your ticket to a thoroughly rustic setting and beautiful sandy beaches lined with hundredyear-old pines.

Biking With 45 (flat!) kilometres of bike trails, a few hours in the saddle couldn’t be easier.

Explore the scenery with the rest of the family and be sure to say hi to families of a very different kind—spying on the beavers when night falls is fun for young and old. Who knows, you might even be lucky enough to run into a moose and her little ones. The Véloroute des Bleuets bike path runs right by the park. parcsquebec.com

Pic-de-la-Hutte

Photo: Parc national des Monts-Valin / Mathieu Dupuis

Spectacular sunsets at 900 m.

The Eyes of the Kingdom The Monts-Valin dominate a very northern landscape. Vegetation stretches right from the foot of the mountains to alpine tundra at the top.

The area is well known for its Vallée des Fantômes come winter and offers a whole host of possibilities to enjoy nature to the fullest, all year round.

From peak to peak Explore 30 km of hiking trails dotted with huts just perfect for a quick break to rest weary legs—or for a snooze when night falls. And why wouldn’t you travel light when our porters will carry your bags for you? With nothing to weigh you down, you can easily scale the heights of at least a dozen 800 m peaks on the new Randonnée des Pics trail, hiking from one side of the park to the other in two or three days.

All in jaw-dropping surroundings.

Day hikers will be in their element, too, and won’t want to miss out on climbing the unforgettable Pic-de-la-Hutte, which stands some 900 m above sea level. You can even leave your car at the 800 m mark and follow the gently sloping trails to the top.

It’s a popular spot for families to admire the sunsets and, on a clear day, Lac Saint-Jean in the distance.

Glorious calm!

High-elevation lakes are calling out for a rod and some line in the hopes of worrying the brook trout, with an all-inclusive formula providing all the equipment you’ll need for a day’s or even a whole vacation’s worth of fishing. Or canoe along the gentle waters of the meandering Rivière Valin, mountains towering in the background, as the magnificent northern landscape marches past. parcsquebec.com

Winter you can touch

Snowshoe and cross-country ski your way through the majestic Vallée des Fantômes, then spend the night in the historic Antoine-Dubuc cabin (now available for rent), a hut, or even the warm and cozy surroundings of… an igloo! More information at sepaq.com/pq/mva.

A ghostly phenomenon!

The Vallée des Fantômes is caused by a mass of moist air coming in off the fjord and then climbing steeply against the mountains. The sudden change in temperature leads to precipitation —and lots of it.

The snow then freezes on the branches, sculpting strange ghostly characters in heavy cloaks of white.

Photo: Parc national des Monts-Valin / Fabrice Tremblay

{ Parc national des Monts-Valin }

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 33

Photo: Parks Canada / C. Dubé

Photo: Parks Canada / Marc Loiselle

Photo: Parks Canada / D. Danvoye

outdoor fun

{ Parc marin du Saguenay–Saint-Laurent }

Photo: Parks Canada / Marc Loiselle

Marine Sanctuary Québec’s parks don’t just come in shades of green. Some of them are also decked out in the deepest of blues. One such example is Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park: 1,245 km2 of water, whales, history, and bustling aquatic life…

Eco-Whale Alliance

Because they take protecting marine ecosystems seriously, the Saguenay– St. Lawrence Marine Park, Parcs Québec, Parks Canada, and the Group for Research and Education on Marine Mammals (GREMM) have joined forces with other stakeholders in the whale-watching industry to raise already stringent standards.

34 immense magazine

The marine park runs along almost the entire length of the Saguenay fjord and a sizable chunk of the St. Lawrence Estuary.

It is Québec’s only protected marine area, boasting a natural environment as spectacular as it is unique, where the waters of the world’s biggest estuary meet those of the longest fjord in Eastern Canada. An impressive number of whales call it home. Belugas, fin whales, blue whales, and humpbacks all descend on this well-stocked pantry to find their fill of krill, and the park is the most southerly point in the world where belugas can still be seen in the wild.

On the water The lay of the water, as it were, means visitors can get up close and personal with marine life.

Boats, Zodiacs, and kayaks all offer their own unique take on a truly exceptional whale-watching experience.

From dry land Nature’s marvels can also be admired from the comfort of the shoreline. Simply visit one of the interpretation sites belonging to the Saguenay– St. Lawrence Discovery Network at Cap de Bon-Désir, Les Escoumins, Tadoussac, Pointe-Noire, or Sainte-Rosedu-Nord (among other places), find a spot by the water, and be wowed by the aquatic life in what is considered to be

the world’s finest marine sanctuary. Word to the wise: don’t forget your binoculars!

Diving down The cold water and rocky seabed of the St. Lawrence are a real treasure trove for nature buffs.

Diving sites at Les Escoumins and elsewhere are a great way to get a closer look at anemones, bottom fish, shrimp, basket stars, and starfish in their natural habitat. Diving in the fjord is trickier since the surface water is more opaque. It’s always like night diving, especially close to Sainte-Rose-du-Nord and Île-Saint-Louis. There the depths are surprisingly clear, diver’s honour! parcmarin.qc.ca

Photo: Marc Loiselle

Park emblem: The peregrine falcon

The park’s cliffs are home to no fewer than 108 nesting pairs. Come admire them from March to late October.

{ Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay }

Around the Fjord

Quebecers are used to spending a vacation driving around the Gaspé Peninsula, but have you ever considered driving around the fjord from start to finish? Why not! The fjord has lots more to offer than just picture postcard scenery: it lives and breathes to the rhythm of its country roads, from shore to shore.

No matter which side of the fjord you find yourself on, Parc national du Fjord-duSaguenay is a hiking nirvana. Yes, the steep and rocky cliffs are impressive, but the world’s longest inhabited fjord couldn’t be more accessible. Sunday afternoon strollers and seasoned hikers will both find all the adventure they are looking for.

Millions of years ago, nature put its colossal strength to work to carve out the fjord and fill it with water. Today, between Baie-SainteMarguerite, Tadoussac, and Baie-Éternité, every step brings you closer to a secret cove, friendly locals, and an incredibly diverse lifestyle and environment. Cabins, huts, tent trailers, Huttopia tents, backcountry campsites, and three-walled shelters are all great ways to ensure an unforgettable night’s sleep, while the campsite at Pointe-du-Moulin has 10 wilderness campsites that you can walk or bike to. With nothing but the song of the beluga to break the night’s silence, you can’t get much further from it all than this.

Don’t-miss trails North shore The 48 km trail stretching from Baie-SainteMarguerite to Tadoussac can be tackled one leg at a time. Why not use the bagcarrying service and give the scenery your full attention? You can even be picked up and driven back to your starting point.

Make sure to stop by L’Anse-de-Roche in Sacré-Cœur for unobstructed 27 km views… and an espresso on the patio!

South shore Three and a half kilometres of brand new trail have opened up in Baie-Éternité, replacing 1,250 wooden steps up to the statue with a stone pathway, making the intermediate climb easier on the legs.

Looking for something easier still? Stop off at L’Anse-à-Tabatière… 500 metres is all it takes to treat yourself to one of the finest panoramas the fjord has to offer.

A Baie-Éternité love affair Baie-Éternité is the beating heart of the national park. It’s the starting point for all kinds of fun out on the fjord, whether you’re on a riverboat tour, heading out in a kayak, taking a spin in a Zodiac, or exploring Baie Éternité in a rabaska with fur trader and master storyteller Étienne de la Rivière. parcsquebec.com

Backpack-free hiking New 3-day, 2-night summer package: Hike along Sentier du fjord; First night in a hut at L’Anse-de-la-Barge; Second night in a yurt at L’Anse-à-Pierrot; Bag-carrying service included For more information: info@ferme5etoiles.com

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 35

lake & fjord WOW! IT’S SO BEAUTIFUL! Some of Québec’s prettiest villages have taken root along the shores of a freshwater lake and a fjord with glints of gold.

Time to take it easy and go with the flow...

Fishing, swimming, sailing, rafting, camping— Lac Saint-Jean is a sea of blue surrounded by a bike path… the perfect place to catch your breath, have fun, and enjoy the landscape.

Photos: left page Jean Tanguay; right page Charles-David Robitaille

It doesn’t matter if you admire the fjord from top to bottom or bottom to top, you’ll likely still be lost for words. The best way to explore the landscape is to let go and let it sweep you off your feet.

Ziplines, via ferrata, cruises, hikes, kayak and rabaska adventures… anything goes when it’s time to soar up, up, and away!

lake & fjord

{ Destination Lac-Saint-Jean }

Treasure LAKE

Photo: Charles-David Robitaille / Illustration : Tomwen Jones / Colagene

There’s so much to do in Lac-Saint-Jean. With 210 km of shoreline and 42 km of beaches hugging a lake of freshwater that flirts with temperatures of 80˚F (26˚C), making the most of summer is a breeze.

North or south, east or west, the choice is yours!

38 immense magazine

Photo: Camping Plage Belley

north White water Untamed rivers pour into Lac Saint-Jean every day. In SaintStanislas, the white water on the Mistassibi provides a welcome shot of adrenaline as kayaks and rafts whizz down the river. At the tourist centre in Lac-à-Jim, pick up tips on exploring the Micosas and Ouasiamsca rivers, while the falls at Chutes à l’Ours beside Rivière Ashuapmushuan are well worth a visit. Plus, thrillseekers can get advice as they tackle Mistassibi Nord-Est and Ouasiamsca with the help of a professional guide. And don’t think we’re forgetting the lake: Vauvert-sur-le-lac is a springboard to all kinds of watery fun—and has a brand new campground to boot!

east

Photo: Charles-David Robitaille

A festival of flip-flops Grab your swimming gear and head to the beach! Beach umbrellas, buckets, and shovels at the ready, there’s all the fine sand you could ever wish for. Choose to stick close to town (Colonie Notre-Dame in Alma) or really go for it at Camping & Plage Belley in Saint-Henride-Taillon, where you can live out your childhood dreams and play at being a pirate. Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon is always a must, with its incredible biodiversity, 15 km beach, and network of bike paths.

And over on the other side of the peninsula, Rivière Péribonka looks more like the St. Lawrence, extending an open invitation to kayakers.

south Fun to the max The beach bum look is what you’re aiming for in Saint-Gédéon.

Here or at Métabetchouan–Lac-à-la-Croix, it’s time to raise the sails and bring out the kite surfboards. You can even rent an SUP (stand up paddleboard, if you’re wondering) from the O’Soleil co-op or go extreme pedal-boating at Desbiens. You won’t want to miss the World Freshwater Pedal Boat Championships on Rivière Métabetchouane at the end of June.

centre Freshwater fish Did you know that Lac Saint-Jean is the biggest inhabited lake in Québec? From the centre, it is often impossible to make out its golden shores. And it takes a big bag limit for such a big lake— you can take home more walleye from Lac Saint-Jean than from any other lake in Québec (10 instead of 6). The ouananiche— the lake’s emblem—is also a popular catch. But to really understand just how enormous the lake is, take a family cruise aboard La Tournée—new this summer.

Events that make a splash!

Anchors aweigh at Complexe touristique Dam-en-Terre in Alma!

Desbiens Extrême

west In full sail Amateur sailors meet up on the lake every summer to visit Roberval and its new marina, outdoor patios, and observation tower. And from there it’s only a stone’s throw to the heritage buildings built on the lakeside.

At Voile Lac-Saint-Jean, you can rent your own sailboat—with or without a captain!—while lovebirds can keep busy admiring the unforgettable sunsets from the sand at Plage Robertson down by the Mashteuiatsh First Nations reserve. You can also rent bikes and kayaks from Vélos Bleus in Chambord and Roberval for two great ways to discover the charms of Lac-Saint-Jean.

(pedal boat championships) June 21 to 24 Festirame (Rowing festival) July 7 to 15 Coastal rowing regatta July 14 Saint-Félicien regatta July 20 to 22 La Traversée internationale du lac Saint-Jean (swimming marathon) July 21 to 29 À l’eau Péribonka (swimming festival) July 26 to 29 lacsaintjean.com

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 39

lake & fjord

{ Les Croisières du Fjord }

How about this for a new way to travel light? For the first time this year, Les Croisières du Fjord has launched a new riverboat service between towns and villages along the fjord.

First, organize your stay like you were planning on biking along the Véloroute. Then remember you’ll be travelling by boat too!

And the route is up to you. For example? In La Baie, hop aboard with your bike. Drift along with the current until Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, then it’s back onto dry land for a bike ride like no other into Tadoussac. And to avoid having to bike all the way back again, simply take the boat back up the fjord whenever you’re ready.

But this time—why not?—let’s get off at L’Anse-Saint-Jean for another stopover. With single and return tickets available, there’ll be no shortage of fun on the fjord this summer!

3

ways to explore the river 40 immense magazine

Hiking 10:30 a.m., L’Anse-Saint-Jean.

We hop aboard the shuttle on our way to Rivière-Éternité.

Thirty minutes later and we’re there. We walk up to the statue —stopping to catch our breath and take in the view at Halte Bellevue—before heading back to L’Anse on the 1:30 p.m. shuttle.

Celebrating

4year0s

Five stops along the fjord La Baie, Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, Rivière-Éternité, L’Anse-Saint-Jean, and Tadoussac: the villages even sound gorgeous! Be sure to take the time to enjoy each of them to the fullest by spending a few hours or days there. The panoramas look even better from out on the water—verdant capes and cliffs plunging down into the river as far as the eye can see. Wave to the grey seals sunning themselves on the rocks (especially around Rivière-Éternité) and remember to stop off and visit the charming, welcoming villages along the way.

Culture At 4:15 in the afternoon, we take the shuttle from Sainte-Rose-du-Nord to La Baie.

Just in time for a romantic supper before we catch a show.

Then it’s off to the inn for a great night’s sleep and we’re back on the 9:30 a.m. shuttle after breakfast.

R&R We leave Tadoussac at 9 a.m., off to L’Anse-Saint-Jean. We spend the whole day there— so much to do!—then sleep at a bed & breakfast. The next morning, we head back down the river to Tadoussac.

Photo: Martial Tremblay

SEEING THE FJORD DIFFERENTLY

BY S RIGHT COZY INN FJORD THE

Photo: Martial Tremblay

Ave Maria

You don’t have to go to Rio to find a statue on the side of a mountain.

Cap Trinité has one of its own, and to see it is to marvel at the determination it must have taken to drag the 5 ton, 9 metre statue all the way up to its perch. The story of the statue—Notre-Dame-duSaguenay (Our Lady of Saguenay)—goes all the way back to 1879, when Charles-Napoléon Robitaille made it home safely after a rough time out on the water.

To thank the Virgin Mary, he commissioned a statue from sculptor Louis Jobin.

Two tour boats met off Cap Trinité in a ceremony to bless the statue on September 15, 1881.

{ Auberge des Battures }

Outstanding Vistas

At Auberge des Battures, breathtaking sunsets are as regular as clockwork, night after night. Whether from the comfort of your room or over supper in the dining room, the show is just for you: here everyone feels as happy as a fish swimming along in the fjord just a stone’s skip away. The four-star inn overlooking Baie des Ha! Ha! is nestled between the fjord and the forest—heaven on earth for nature lovers.

The calm surroundings, the warm welcome, the wonderful menu, and the health centre are all great reasons to stay here. Not to mention the entertainment and cruise packages. And when it’s time to hit the sack, the forest or fjord views beat counting sheep any day! Opt for a double hot tub in your room for a special treat. Champagne, s’il vous plaît! hotel-saguenay.com Special offers available. See the Packages section at the back of the magazine.

Follow the current Les Croisières du Fjord has a fleet of four pretty boats. La Marjolaine is the biggest of the lot and can hold 400 passengers. It goes without saying that you feel in good hands as soon as you step on board, and so off we go on our trip down the fjord from La Baie to Tadoussac.

The cruise naturally takes in all sights of interest along the fjord (and you can really appreciate them now that you’re out on the water). But there are also 150 million years of history to discover.

An on-board guide brings this story to life, explaining how the fjord was formed and telling visitors all about the people, plants, and animals that call it home. croisieresdufjord.com

• La Baie • Sainte-Rose-du-Nord • Rivière-Éternité • L’Anse-Saint-Jean • Tadoussac

Photo: Jonathan Robert

Riverboat stops

{ Auberge des 21 }

21 Great Reasons

Marcel Bouchard, chef and owner at Auberge des 21, doesn’t like bragging that people come from all over to eat at his inn. For him, the 20 other reasons are just as compelling. Auberge des 21 in La Baie stands proudly over the fjord. There’s the Parfum de Fjord spa offering beauty treatments and massages, along with a nordic spa that’s just had a makeover and will warm the heart of anyone who enjoys the heat.

But there’s no overlooking the foodies who flock here for sweets & savouries, wild mushrooms, bulrush hearts, pembina, cloudberries, wild violets… we could go on and on. The food is a great reason to stay here—but it’s really just the beginning! aubergedes21.com Special offers available. See the Packages section at the back of the magazine.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 41

lake & fjord

The outfitter is incredibly diverse, magical panoramas being the common thread that binds the whole operation together.

{ Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste }

Superlative Surroundings

Photo: Cap au Leste

Heaven on Earth is right here in Sainte-Rosedu-Nord, a haven for all that is natural.

Nestled on the cliffside, overlooking the Saguenay Fjord and the water way down below, Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste is an outfitter worthy of all the superlatives in the world.

Up this high over the fjord, it’s not hard to imagine our aboriginal ancestors having to leave a few things behind before they paddled back upstream. But you’ll want for nothing right here along Chemin du Cap-à-l’Est, up on the steep slopes that tower over the fjord.

Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste is incredibly diverse, magical panoramas being the common thread that binds the whole operation together. Everything here is larger than life, even the cabins for rent.

Outdoor buffs will quickly fall for the log cabins.

Surprisingly spacious, they each boast six to ten bedrooms. Visitors can plump for Mukushan, the luxurious main building, or a rustic hut on the banks of Lac des Sables, with the charms of old-fashioned lighting and outhouses.

If you go out in the woods today…

Setting out from the Montagnais cabin, there’s a great walk to be had if you head toward the fjord— and some splendid views from the lookout too.

Other options include Sentier du Phare, a two-and-ahalf-hour hike that will bring you all the way down to the water’s edge revealing the Lighthouse. And once you’re down there, how about a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters of the river?

If you’re heading into the forest, don’t leave home without your own herbalist—he’s always eager to share his passion with hikers looking to know more. How else would you learn all about the “aspirin” tree or the other medicinal plants that the First Nations used?

You’ll be wishing you had time to stay longer and discover more. capauleste.com

42 immense magazine

Photo: Jonathan Robert

Photo: Alain Dumas

{ L’Anse-Saint-Jean }

The Four Seasons of L’Anse-Saint-Jean L’Anse-Saint-Jean boasts a storied past, but what really brings it to life is the people who live there. Surrounded by Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay and the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park, the beauty of the village and the surrounding area has to be seen to be believed.

Photo: J.C. Fortin

Spring, summer, fall, or winter, locals swear there’s nowhere quite like it! And for visitors who come in search of a little piece of heaven, it doesn’t take long to discover why. One of the prettiest villages in all Québec, L’Anse-Saint-Jean is surrounded by dreamy countryside, posing for the camera between green fields and blue skies. From down in the fjord up to the top of the mountains, there’s something magical in the air that really 4 Season gets the creative juices flowing, and the fjord surely has something to do with it. It’s so easy to fall under the spell Photo Contest For fame (not fortune), of the brightly painted houses, the covered bridge, the cozy send your best photo restaurants, the marina gleaming in the sun, and the comfy of L’Anse-Saint-Jean bed & breakfasts. Just stroll along the wharf and out into to the photography the fjord or go on a shopping spree in the village boutiques club in Chicoutimi. and you’ll soon see what happens when a treasure trove of Winner will be chosen culture combines with a wealth of local talent. And with each in June 2013. lanse-saint-jean.ca season bringing a new way to enjoy the village, we say it’s time to discover L’Anse-Saint-Jean all year round. lanse-saint-jean.ca

Spring...

Head toward the mountain to Spa Édouard-les-Bains and spoil yourself rotten.

Try a Nordic bath, a relaxing massage, or even a fish pedicure. Not your thing?

Then head for the hills, on horseback or by quad.

Summer...

Time to strike out on the water. Kayaks, sailboats, tour boats—there are so many ways to take a closer look at the fjord. Even the sea trout and the salmon are keen to get in on the action along Rivière Saint-Jean. Or hop on a bike and let’s go for a ride.

Fall...

You can’t miss out on a mouth-watering pie from Pâtisserie Louise. Or the view from the lookout at L’Ansede-Tabatière. Not to mention the exhibition under the covered bridge. Or the Symposium des Villages en Couleurs painting festival over the Thanksgiving holiday…

Winter...

Station Mont-Édouard has quite the blanket of white for skiers. Discover the heart of the forest on c­ ross-country skis, snowshoes, or snowmobile.

Then while away those long February evenings with a trip out onto the fjord for some ice fishing.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 43

city life

La Vieille Garde de Chicoutimi is the bistro par excellence for privately imported wines and a fresh new take on haute cuisine.

One of the bistro’s brag factors is its solid concrete bar, which chef, co-owner, and designer Merlin Lambert single-handedly dreamt up, laid the foundation for, and poured—all in the same night.

Photo: Jonathan Robert

URBAN BEATS There’s a magical place in Québec that’s about as close to nature as a city can get.

A place where boutique hotels, bars, and charming restaurants meet the great outdoors. A place that’s just made for festival-goers, foodies, and fans of craft beer. Intrigued? Then take a deep breath and savour everything the Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean area has to offer!

Sightseeing bus Photo: Dominic Gagné

Hop on/hop off for a guided tour along the streets of Saguenay.

Tickets $10, valid for 2 days. June 26 to August 25.

{ Promotion Saguenay }

WHAT’S HOT IN SAGUENAY Saguenay is one of Québec’s hidden gems. Wherever you go in town, you’re never far from the river. So it’s no surprise that this is a place where life just flows as you wander from trendy boutique to hip bistro, taking a moment to sip local microbrews on your way to the next festival showcasing culture from near and far.

This is where you come for a taste of city life in the Saguenay. All across the boroughs of La Baie, Jonquière, and Chicoutimi, you can breathe the purest of city air and enjoy the region’s legendary hospitality. One thing’s for sure: Saguenay locals certainly live up to their fun-loving reputation.

Wall-to-wall festivals As temperatures climb, audiences swell and festival-goers descend on the streets.

With big-name shows like the epic La Fabuleuse, acclaimed Québec Issime country musical Cowboys, de Willie à Dolly, and illusionist Erik K’s must-see magic show Apparence, it’s easy to see that Saguenay has putting on a festival down to a fine art. Rue Racine takes on a real big-city feel during Festival international des Rythmes du monde (a world music festival) and keeps the crowds coming back for more.

And if you happen to find yourself between festivals, there’s always plenty of shopping to do!

Life is good!

Wine bars, inviting patios, laidback cafés, and gourmet restaurants all have a way of whetting the appetite, and probably the best-kept secret in Québec is just how creative Saguenay chefs can be. Reserve a table at La Vieille Garde and sample the special eaux-de-vie on offer at its bar à gnôle or catch some sun on the patio… sample the eco-friendly cuisine at funky Café Cambio… dine in style at Auberge Villa Pachon (where chef Daniel Pachon is a member of the exclusive Universal Cassoulet Academy)… head over to Auberge des 21 where chef Marcel Bouchard works wonders in the kitchen… sample innovative global fare at L’International… grab a bite during the lively happy hour at Rouge Burger at Hôtel Chicoutimi… hit Le Bergerac for some magic from chef Michel Daigle… there’s always a good reason to stop and enjoy a taste of summer in Saguenay.

Festival Time!

Jonquière en musique (music festival) June 28 to July 14 Festival des vins de Saguenay (wine festival) July 13 & 14 Festival des bières du monde (international beer festival) July 19 to 22 Festival international des rythmes du monde (world music festival) August 2 to 12 Festival des Saveurs et Trouvailles (local food festival) August 10 to 12 Les Grandes Veillées (traditional music festival) August 24 to 26 Manigances International Puppet Arts Festival September 13 to 23 saguenay.ca

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 45

city section life

Hôtel Chicoutimi is heavily involved in the cultural scene and each year teams up with a string of street festivals on Rue Racine, the local window on all the latest trends.

{ Hôtel Chicoutimi }

A Signature Classic This 100-year-old signature hotel has stood the test of time in the heart of Chicoutimi.

Hôtel Chicoutimi is the only hotel in Saguenay’s lively festival district. A real crossroads of culture, the hotel is also a hub for the local artists who display their works inside. Stay here to admire canvases by painter and designer Pierre Routhier over breakfast in La Galerie, or explore them at your leisure in many of the hotel’s 85 rooms. Much of the furniture was made by local craftsmen, and every room is stocked with artisanal soap, bringing new life to the term “sustainable development.”

des rythmes du monde, when the street is completely closed to traffic.

Hôtel Chicoutimi loves to give culture a helping hand. Heavily involved in the local cultural scene, it teams up with a string of street festivals on Rue Racine each year to keep its finger firmly on the pulse. With its boutiques, bistros, and excellent restaurants, bustling Rue Racine also hosts Festival international

Hôtel Chicoutimi prides itself on adding the finishing touches to any getaway and, with many rooms enjoying river views, now you can add watching the water flow by to the list of ahhmenities.

46 immense magazine

At lunchtime, L’International conjures up the sights and sounds of the Mediterranean with its fresh, original flavours. Then, when evening comes, make a beeline for Rouge Burger Bar for a lively happy hour and the ever-popular lamb burger.

Chances are the place will be filled with local flavour—and the locals’ famous singsong accent too!

hotelchicoutimi.qc.ca

{ City of Saint-Félicien }

Saint-Félicien, Naturally Don’t miss Agricultural show June 7 to 10

Cycling championships June 14 to 17 Regatta July 20 to 22

Along the shores of Rivière Ashuapmushuan— “the place where moose are seen” in Montagnais— Saint-Félicien offers a whole slew of activities for young and old. Outdoor buffs and biking enthusiasts will want to hit the trails, while others linger at the public market to stock up on local products and other cultural goodies. And when the sun goes down, two free shows take to the stage at Parc du Sacré-Cœur and Féliscène, before it’s time for a sound night’s sleep at a local inn or bed & breakfast. ville.stfelicien.qc.ca

A fascinating blend of magic and illusion { Hôtel La Saguenéenne }

One Oasis, One Thousand Illusions

Apparence is a show for the whole family.

In the midst of Saguenay-Chicoutimi is a tropical oasis where the sun shines every day. One glimpse of the palms in the atrium, the pool, and the saltwater spas and you’ll have your feet up in no time. Guests come here to unwind and relax, with or without the kids. The garden-level rooms have direct access to the atrium pool, while the upstairs rooms enjoy quite the view. Slip on your swimming gear and you’ll swear you’re in the tropics.

However, the magic doesn’t stop there, not with illusionist Erik K wowing audiences all summer long in the hotel theatre. Riffing on the world’s most spectacular magical productions, Apparence is simply not to be missed. Treat yourself to dinner with the show or sit down to a meal in Le Tremblay restaurant with grilled meats or seafood platter. If happiness exists, then surely it’s here, in the hands of the hotel’s friendly, caring staff. And that’s no illusion!

July 5 to August 31: Apparence www.lasagueneenne.com Offer available. See the Packages section at the back of the magazine.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 47

city life

{ City of Alma }

Alma the Energetic

Photo: Véloroute des Bleuets

Photo: Festivalma

A visit to chocolate store Au cœur fondant?

An apéritif at Café du Clocher?

A night at Auberge-Bistro Rose et Basilic? Some mead from Miel des Ruisseaux?

Lunch at Chez Mario Tremblay? Looks like the cat’s out of the bag!

Photo: Charles-David Robitaille

Top secret

A town built on water, Alma enjoys making waves. The energy generated by its river can surely be no stranger to the stirrings of the young entrepreneurs who are flocking here in search of a new way of life.

With a beautiful natural setting and a vibrant cultural scene, Alma is making a name for itself. Things are changing in this town, the biggest in Lac-Saint-Jean.

Right downtown, on Rue Collard or along Sacré-Cœur, art galleries stand cheek by jowl with trendy restaurants and cozy accommodations. Galerie Le Vieil-Art showcases contemporary artists, including 30 painters and sculptors, and Langage Plus welcomes artists in residence from home and abroad. All while designer boutiques and concert halls are busy springing up all over. With a steady stream of sporting and cultural events, it’s little wonder the town is a hive of activity all summer long.

Nature beckons A town that’s surrounded by the great outdoors, Alma is the starting point for getaways galore. It’s here that the Véloroute des Bleuets begins its 256 km circuit of the lake, with top-notch services and facilities for cyclists. And you’re just around the corner from Pointe des Américains, the source of Rivière Saguenay. tourismealma.com

Photo: Festivalma

You won’t want to miss…

48 immense magazine

Festirame (July 7 to 15) – a festival including the only coastal rowing regatta in North America – sees rowers tear up the 42 km course on Lac Saint-Jean. Or Festival Sacré-Blues Molson X in September.

25

years young!

{ La Fabuleuse Histoire d’un Royaume }

Passion a Gogo!

Two hundred actors, 1,600 characters, and 30 tableaux add up to one giant fresco!

With all the passion and emotion we’ve come to expect, this year La Fabuleuse is celebrating its 25th anniversary in style.

When it first débuted 25 years ago, La Fabuleuse was Québec’s first big show of its very own. The cast is impressive: 200 actors age 4 to 85 play at the Théâtre du Palais municipal in La Baie every evening.

Even the 2,500-seat venue is imposing—and filled to the rafters all summer long.

People flock from miles around to applaud the critically acclaimed show, a larger than life historical fresco looking back on the history of Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean and the province. And, best of all, the story is told by locals.

The action takes place on stage and right down in the audience. Director Louis Wauthier is also an actor, giving spirited performances of his own night after night for the past 25 years. “La Fabuleuse is

something of a love story. Some people have seen it 25 times already! They have really taken to the piece and its characters,” he says. Thoughts naturally turn to Québec’s longest-running play, Broue.

But the story isn’t as burlesque.

“It’s the story of local people told by local people. From native history and the court of France to the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, the great fire of 1870, and

the flood of 1996, we don’t just learn about history, we relive it.”

Michel Dumont’s narration only adds to the drama as the tale unfolds over an hour and a half, a feast for the senses and an affair of the heart.

July 5 to August 18, 2012 fabuleuse.com

La Fabuleuse is a larger than life historical fresco looking back on the history of Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean and the province of Québec.

www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca 49

Did You Know?

Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean by the numbers 210

4

That’s how many kilometres of shores there are around Lac Saint-Jean.

The number of national parks in the region.

34

The number of different cheeses made locally.

3

times bigger than Belgium.

That's how big the Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean is!

25

The number of fine sandy beaches around the lake.

950

million

The number of years dating the origin of the Saguenay Fjord, one of the largest faults in the Canadian Shield.

Parc national des Monts-Valin

272

50 immense magazine

That's how deep the fjord is, in metres, between Sainte-Rosedu-Nord and L'Anse-Saint-Jean.

Ghosts live up in the valley of the park at an altitude of 800 m, a snowball’s throw from the peaks jutting out over the snow. Here the trees are sheltered from the wind and snow drifts down off the mountain ridges… which means up to 5.5 m of snowfall every year.

Toutes vos vacances.

Une couleur.

Photo : Charles-David Robitaille