i Open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm Monday to Saturday; 11:00 am to 5:00 pm Sundays.
Regular Features
Children s Activity Page 21; Coming Events 22.
Centre s Features
Some Recent Additions To The Centre s Library, 8; Garden Shop, 11; Program, 15.
The Front Cover
Peony Mons. Jules Elie (Paeonia lactiflora) photographed in Ridgeway, Ontario. Photo by Sid Morris.
Publication Committee for Trellis
Lawrence C. Sherk (Chairman), Gilbert A. Milne, Er- nie Pope, Flavia Redelmeier and Lois Wilson.
Editor Sid Morris
General Information
Trellis is published in the months ofMarch, April, May, June, September and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, On- tario M3C 1P2. The Centre is located in Edwards Gar- dens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical ceatre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information or- ganization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership ($10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. This is Volume 3, Number 3.
You are Invited To Join Telephone
What it is
e A non-profit gardening and floral arts centre for the dissemination of information to amateur gardeners and flower-arrangers
e An open membership body with over 3,000 keen gardener-members (from rank amateurs to advanced professionals)
e Home of six gardening clubs or groups with specific gardening interests
e Meeting place for specialized plant societies from Bonsai to Roses
e Home of some of the best flower arrangers in North America (quoted from U.S.A. author and editor, Helen Van Pelt Wilson)
What it does
e Operates Canada s most complete public horticultural library
® Responds to over 3,000 gardening questions annually
e Organizes expertise garden talks and demonstrations on a variety of subjects and at different levels
e Teaches non-commercial flower arranging at various levels and encourages competition amongst members
e Carries on an extensive flower-drying programme to extend garden beauty economically into the winter months
e Operates a Speakers Panel Bureau which brings panels of experts on various subjects to groups desirous of an informative programme
e Publishes booklets on various subjects; e.g. Preserving Beautiful Flowers
e Stages two flower shows each year and hosts numerous others
What members receive
e Six issues per year of Trellis
e Free borrowing privileges from the 3,000-volume library
e Ten per cent discount off all purchases of books and gardening and floral arts supplies bought from the Centre
e The opportunity to join one or more specialized member groups or clubs
e Discounts off all courses offered at the Centre
e Free admission to Members Nights held at least twice per year
| wish to be recorded as a member in the above category and enclose my cheque for $______ []Please accept the additional amount as a donation towards your program.
NAME PHONE ADDRESS
John Bradshaw s Perfect Lawn Program with
the new, S.C.U. based fertilizers
e more economical
e more efficient
For the Perfect Lawn Program apply 10 Ibs./1000 sq. ft. of special CIL plant foods four times a year (40 Ibs./1000 sq. ft. per season), and eliminate weeds, insects and lawn diseases. Choose the four applications which fit your needs from these quality products and apply at 10 Ibs./1000 sq. ft.
e CIL Golfgreen 18-6-9
Apply as soon as snow melts. Repeat feeding during season as required.
e CIL Crab Grass DoctorT.M. 18-6-9
For crab grass infested lawns apply as soon as snow melts instead of Golfgreen. Repeat application in August to kill Poa Annua.
e CiL Lawn Insect DoctorTM18-6-9 Kills Chinch Bug and White Grub. ~ % Apply in May-June or July-August.
e CIL Lawn Weed Doctor 18-6-9 Kills broadleaved weeds. Apply May-June or August.
e CIL Winierizer®6-12-24
Conditions lawns, trees and shrubs against L overwintering problems. Apply September-October.
e CIL Winterizer /Weeder 6-12-24
Conditions lawns against overwintering problems and kills broadleaved weeds. Apply September or early October.
Lawn & Garden Products
CrabGrass Doctor
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What plant produces the flower in the photo? Answer on page 12.
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« Roll Shades ® Hi-Lo Temperature Alarm Systems
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IMPORTED STEWART PLASTIC GARDEN WARE
« Propagators ¢ Pots and Saucers ® Shrub Tubs
e Troughs ® Sieves ® Trays
You are cordially invited to visit THE PLANT ROOM at 6373 Trafalgar Road (2.6 miles south of Highway 401) and see the finest collection in Canada of exotic plants growing under our units and in our modern greenhouses. FREE ADVISORY SERVICE available upon request.
Earthworms, Lumbricus terrestris, are omnivorous; that is, their food consists chiefly of dead plant material such as fallen leaves, grass clippings from the lawn, spent flowers, and spoiled fruit and vegetables. They will eat raw meat and other dead bodies.
Although the lowly earthworm doesn t possess eyes, it is sensitive to light and fishermen searching with a flashlight at night are well aware that it quickly withdraws into its burrow when a light is flashed on the earthworm. It is also sensitive to vibrations such as digging ofthe soil or stamping ofithe foot.
The digestive system of the earthworm consists of a tube within a tube, with the digestive tract being the inner tube. The mouth has no teeth so plays only a passive role in gathering food. Beyond the mouth is the buccal cavity leading to a muscular pharynx which has muscle fibres radiating out from the body wall. A contraction enlarges the pharynx cavity creating a suction force which draws in food particles. Behind the pharynx lies the gullet, a straight, narrow, thin-walled tube. Found in the gullet are three pairs of calciferous glands which secrete a white fluid rich in calcium carbonate which goes into the digestive system. The gullet expands into a thin-walled crop which apparently is a food storage area. Next to this is the gizzard where, with the aid of coarse sand and very small pieces of gravel, the food is mixed and ground. The gizzard leads into a thin-walled intestine where the digestion and absorption of food occurs. The excretion is
then passed through the anus. This excretion is called worm castings .
Worms can be a valuable aid in the recycling of organic waste. Compost is shredded and placed in 45 gallon drums cut lengthwise. The compost is then seeded with red worms. As the worms feed they break down the compost into worm castings. More compost is added which the worms begin to work on immediately. When the drum is full of castings the worms are extracted to be used as culture for the starting of other drums.
The worm castings are then pasteurized; that is, they are heated to a temperature of 82°C (180°F) for 30 minutes. This kills any weed seeds or diseases but does not kill the beneficial bacteria. The pasteurized worm castings are mixed with peat moss. One of the reasons for this mixing is that the worm castings alone are so fertile that they can actually hinder plant growth, Mr. Carl Klauck claims.
Worm castings are used in the production of Terra Organica, a soil mixture with a PH reading of6.5 to 7.5. Advantages of Terra Organica include increased moisture retention which makes less plant watering necessary. The fertility is such that the potted plant doesn t need to be fertilized for approxcontinued on page 10
terra organica® SOIL MIXTURE is available at the CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE and at other garden supply outlets.
Some Recent Additions To The Centre s Library
Pamela MacKenzie Grounds, Roger. Grow Your Own Vegetables. 1975
A comprehensive introduction to vegetable gardening which experienced gardeners would find helpful. Contains plant hardiness zone map.
Bruce, Hal. How To Grow Wildflowers And Wild Shrubs And Trees In Your Garden. 1976.
A welcome addition to the growing number of books available on this subject. Gives many hints on flower, tree and shrub combinations.
Two additional periodical titles have recently been added to the library. These are available for reference.
The Pyramid Guide. A bi-monthly newsletter.
The Green Scene. The bi-monthlyjournal of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society.
Opening hours and borrowing privileges: May I remind borrowers of the li-
brary s revised opening hours. I hope that the extended hours on Wednesday and Saturday will be convenient for members who cannot get here during the day or on Saturday afternoons. Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays & Fridays: Library open 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p-m. Wednesday 9:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Saturday 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Members may borrow up to six books at a time, with a limit of two books on any one topic. The loan period is three weeks, after which a fine of five cents per day per book is charged, the maximum fine being $1.00 per book. Loans can be renewed once by telephone, unless already reserved by another borrower. Books on flower arranging cannot be renewed while classes are in progress.
Pamela MacKenzie, Librarian, Civic Garden Centre.
YOUR AD can appear here for as little as $168 per year!
LANDSCAPE DESIGN
The following Specialty groups meet at the CENTRE for regular meetings: The Toronto Bonsai Society, The Can. Chrysanthemum Society, The Can. Rose Society, Gardening Under Lights Group, The Highrise Gardeners Club, The Men' s Garden Club, The Southern Ontario Orchid Society and The Rhododendron Society.
You are welcome to attend any of the Society meetings or other interests Please call for meeting times.
Use Your Head When Planting A Tree
D. BURKE McNEILL
Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food
That title does not mean that you should use your head instead of a shovel to plant a tree, but it does mean that planting a tree can be a fairly simple operation. Mainly it requires a little common sense.
A garden center operator s biggest complaint on returned dead trees is that in most cases the customer simply dug a hole and stuck the tree in without much thought for the tree or what conditions it was expected to survive in. Trees are living things and while they can stand a lot of abuse there are a few rules that should be used to ensure success.
Most trees do not do well in either poorly drained places or heavy compacted clay. This does not mean, though, that if your yard is poorly drained with heavy compacted clay soil that you cannot grow trees. You can! There will be a little heavy digging to do, but with proper preplanting preparation, trees will grow in most locations.
On heavy clay soils, particularly in new subdivisions where the soil has been compacted by machines, the existing soil should be removed from the planting site. Dig the hole larger than the root system. A good rule ofthumb is a hole 18 inches deep and 18 inches in diameter. However, the larger the tree, the larger the hole is needed. The hole is then filled with good, well-mixed top soil and some of the clay soil. Where drainage is a problem, dig the hole even deeper and add six to eight inches of stones or crushed rock. This will provide some drainage for the tree. This preplanting preparation is very impor-
tant for it gets the tree offto a good start and once it is growing well it will thrive even in clay.
In sandy soils, preparation is not as important as they often are well drained and do not compact. However, mixing the soil from the planting site 50-50 with peat moss benefits the tree by increasing the water-holding capacity of the soil.
If the sites have been properly prepared, the type and size of the tree selected is not important. Most varieties will do well. Many people prefer to purchase fairly large trees which give the effect of instant landscaping. This is quite satisfactory but it is expensive. They do withstand more physical abuse than a small tree and in many situations this is desirable.
But ifcost is a factor, a small tree will be satisfactory; in fact, a small tree is much easier to establish than a large one. Because there is less root damage when the tree is dug and less foliage to sustain after transplanting, a small tree will grow much quicker than a large one. With good conditions, it will outgrow it within a short period of time. Therefore, the size of tree you select is not important but do be sure that it has a healthy appearance and a good root system.
Trees are sold at garden centers by three methods. In the early spring, before the leaves appear, you receive them with no soil on the roots or bare root as catalogues list. After the leaves appear, they will either be sold in a plastic, fiber or wood container or balled and burlapped (B & B). Planting the tree is basically the same for all three methods, but for each there are some small variations.
Regardless of how the tree is purchased, it should be planted as quickly as possible. If there is a delay, store the plants in a cool location and keep the soil ball or roots moist until planting time. Never let the roots dry out.
In planting the tree dig the hole deep enough so that the tree is planted at the same depth or slightly deeper than it was in the nursery. This is easily detected by a ring on the truck ofthe tree. Center the tree in the hole and start replacing the top soil. If the tree was received in a container, particularly plastic, this should be removed carefully so as not to disturb the root ball. The burlap on a B & B tree does not need to be removed but after the soil has been partially replaced in the hole the burlap around the trunk should be loosened and rolled back.
As the soil is being replaced, be sure that the soil is firm around the roots. With bare root trees, the tree should be shaken gently as the soil is replaced to avoid air spaces around the roots. This can be done with the hands or the foot but use a little discretion as too much pressure can break roots and this is to be avoided. Once the soil is firmly around the roots, soak it well and the tree is ready to grow.
A question that gardeners often ask is Should I fertilize the tree at planting time? If good top soil is used, the tree should not need to be fertilized. Some gardeners still like to use it and in this situation it should be applied after the tree is planted. Never place fertilizer in the bottom of the hole!! This could burn the roots and kill the tree.
Staking the tree is the last operation. It is very important. Until the tree is firmly anchored high winds will cause the tree to move in the ground and this will have a detrimental effect on its ability to become established. When the single stake method is used, the stake should be placed before the roots are covered. This avoids damaging the roots. It should also be located on the side of the prevailing winds to reduce the chance of the tree rubbing on the stake.
Now all that remains to be done is watch the tree grow and dream of relaxing in the shade. Water it regularly dur-
ing the first year and keep the kids, pets and lawn mowers away from it. These latter three hazards can sometimes be the most destructive factors in establishing a tree.
The Helpful Earthworm continued
imately three years. (Tests are currently being carried out to establish the maximum period of fertility.) Terra Organica speeds the breakdown of clay soils. Its addition to.soils also aids in the prevention of soil erosion. It should be noted that Terra Organica alone is not suitable for seed sowing: it should be mixed with peat moss.
Worms, because of the castings they emit, can be a valuable aid in pollution control. They permit the recycling of organic waste into a saleable end product.
Plantique . . . the indoor greenhouse
= Earthworms breaking down organic waste into worm castings so that it may be made into Terra Organica.
Garden Shop
Betty Billes
As we go to press the Centre is a beehive ofactivity with staff and volunteers busy preparing for our first Spring sale ofplant materials and gardening needs, to be held at the Centre Saturday May 15th.
Aptly named PLANTERAMA, it is hoped this sale will become a popular happening and that it will develop into an annual event and a major fund-raising source to aid the many horticultural programs sponsored by the Civic Garden Centre.
Members of the groups who use our facilities are gathering cuttings and seedlings of usual and not-so-usual plants and gardening things as well as -an array of those favourite spring annuals that add so much colour to our gardens.
The Garden Shop will have an added supply of gardening items on hand including the much-advertised Seed Speed (85.95), a new revolutionary device which magnetically stimulates seeds to produce a faster germination and greater yield.
For those who have thought of buying a compost unit a special representative will be on-hand to offer advice; for the greenhouse enthusiast a 10 x & Eden Greenhouse will be set up outdoors with a field consultant ready to help. Both products are regularly available through our Shop where you can take advantage of your member s discount.
Attendance at this sale means you can buy all your Spring gardening needs while helping the Centre s fund-raising efforts. It will also give you the chance to see Edwards Gardens magnificent display of tulips expected to be in full bloom by mid-May. We hope you will tell your friends or better still bring them with you and make our efforts worthwhile.
Betty Billes, Chairwoman, Shop Committee
Water Lilies Aquatic Plants
Everything for the Water Garden Free Catalog on request MOORE WATER GARDENS
PORT STANLEY, ONT. NOL 2A0
Phone 519-782-4052
PEFFERLAW PEAT COMPOSTED MANURE/ PEAT MIX
The ideal soil mix correctly balanced to fill the needs of all growing plants indoors or out.
G. T. STRAIN & SON
Cannington, Ont. Phone (Toronto) 364-6068
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House Plants
of the Month
Flowering Maple (Abutilon hybridum)
Flowering maples are noted for their distinctive leaves and attractive bellshaped pendulous flowers that bloom for most of the year. Leaves are 5 to 6 cm (2-3 in.) while the flowers have a diameter of 5 cm (2 in.).
Its growth habit varies with the species. A. megapotamicum, for example, has slender stems covered in small green and yellow leaves, and bears pendulous red and yellow blossoms with large, dark brown, pollen-bearing anthers. Old plants trail as long as 1.3 m (5 ft.) making this species suitable for hanging baskets. The busy varieties A. striatum thompsonii, with orange flowers and red veins, andA. hybridum with white, yellow, salmon or purple blooms can be pruned in spring to keep them to a manageable size.
Flowering maples require at least four hours of direct sunlight a day. Night temperatures should be 10° to 12° C (50° to 55° F.) while day temperatures of20° to 22° C (68° to 72° F.) are suitable. Frequent watering is required and a bi-weekly application of liquid fertilizer is helpful in keeping the plant in bloom. Propagate by seed or by making stem cuttings from new spring growth.
D. QUERIPEL & SON
Piggyback plant (Tolmiea menziesii)
The piggyback plant, 38 to 52 cm (15 to 20 in.) in diameter, has long-stemmed hairy leaves that produce a bud at the top of the leaf-stalk which forms a miniature of the parent plant.
The piggyback plant does best in bright but indirect sunlight. It should have good drainage, a soil that is rich with peat moss, leafmold or some other organic matter, and must always be kept moist. It is an excellent plant for growing under fluorescent lights ifgiven at least 400 foot-candles. This plant thrives in a wide range of temperatures, from a cool room to those of the usual living-room range.
Propagate at any season from a leaf that has a plantlet attached: insert about 5 cm (2 in.) of the leaf stem into sand, with the base of the leaf resting on the sand.
Banana (Musa Cavendishii) is the answer for flower on page 6.
Flowering maple (Abutilon hybridum)
Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia)
The grape ivy resembles poison ivy in appearance but there all similiarity ends. It is a good house plant that can be used very effectively in hanging baskets.
It does best with night temperatures of 10° to 12° C (50° to 55° F.) and day temperatures of 20° to 22° C (68° to 72° F.). Allow the soil to become moderately dry then water thoroughly. Feed established plants every four months. When planting use a soil mixture ofone part loam, one part peat moss and one part sharp sand. Propagation is by stem cuttings and can be done at any season.
XBlue echeveria (Echeveria glauce)
Echeverias are succulent-leaved plants that form symmetrical rosettes that hug the ground. This particular species can attain a diameter of 30 cm (12 in.) and a height of 30 cm (12 in.). The plant produces a flower stalk that bears small tubular flowers in colours of orange and pink. This species is usually used in summer bedding.
Echeverias will freeze readily so bring them indoors in the fall. The soil should be made of two parts loam and one part each of sand and crushed bricks. They should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. They prefer a night temperature of 10° to 12° C (50° to 55° F.) and a day temperature of20° to 22° (0810, 722 )
Propagate at any season. The ideal time for propagation is in the fall when plants are brought into the house. New plants can be started from leaf or from the rosettes that form under the old rosettes of leaves.
DOMINION STORE SALES SLIPS WANTED
Drop (or mail) your Dominion sales slips into the Centre and help defray the cost of furnishing our expansion facilities.
Piggyback plant (Tolmiea menziessi)
Grape lvy (Cissus rhombifolia)
Blue echeveria (Echeveria glauca)
What to Look For When Buying Fertilizer
IAN D. W. SMITH
Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food
F ertilization is an important and usually necessary practice in growing nearly all vegetables, fruits and ornamentals in the home garden. Unless your soil is very fertile, it will probably require fertilizer every year, but the amount needed and the analysis may vary. The right amount of the right kind, applied properly, at the right time, gives best results.
There are many different fertilizer analyses and brands available today. Most are identified by a three-number sequence such as 6-12-12, 7-7-7, etc. The first figure in the analysis is always the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer. The second refers to the phosphorus content, while the last refers to potassium (as potash). A fertilizer like 16-8-8 is high in nitrogen, while one like 5-10-30 is high in potassium and lower in nitrogen and phosphorous.
A high-analysis fertilizer is usually a better buy per pound of plant nutrients than one with a lower analysis. For example, 15-15-15 contains 45 percent plant nutrients, while 10-10-10 contains only 30 percent of the same nutrients in the same ratio. Even though you will pay more for the higher analysis fertilizer, you would, in this example, apply one-third less to the same area of garden soil.
Whether to buy organic or inorganic fertilizer is a matter of personal choice. Both forms can be equally good. Organic materials are first broken down by bacteria into inorganic, water-soluble forms. Plants cannot tell if the nutrient elements entered the soil solution from organic matter, inorganic fertilizer, or the weathering of soil. Organic fertilizers will cause less burning of 14 / May 1976
plants than inorganic (chemical) fertilizers when used in large applications.
The organic materials are more slowly available to plants, which means they are available to the plant for a longer time, and are less likely to be lost from the soil. However, they are more expensive than inorganic types, and most are quite low in plant nutrients. Their nutrients are in an insoluble form and are only made available to plants as the material decays in the soil.
The nutrients in inorganic (synthetic) fertilizers are in soluble form quickly available to plants rather than long-lasting. Their nutrient content is usually quite high, thus a smaller amount is needed to provide the needed nutrients. Also, the inorganic fertilizers are usually more economical to buy. A disadvantage is that most gardeners tend to apply too much fertilizer, which is caustic to growing plants and will cause injury. Also, because some nutrients in inorganic fertilizers are very soluble, they can be lost from the plant root zone by leaching.
Shop around a bit before buying your fertilizer. Some stores will have lower prices than others. Just remember to compare prices of a similar analysis of fertilizer on the basis ofprice per pound of plant nutrients. Lawn fertilizers containing weed and grub killers will naturally cost more than fertilizers without these added materials. Be very careful to use these 3-in-1 fertilizers only on lawns. Do not use them in vegetable, fruit and flower gardens, unless the label clearly indicates otherwise.
A soil test will provide you with accurate fertilizer recommendations. But ifa soil test is not possible, you cannot go too wrong by applying about 20 to 25 pounds of 15-15-15 fertilizer, or similar analysis, per 1,000 square feet of garden
soil. For lawns, use about 12 to 15 pounds of 7-7-7 or similar analysis, per 1,000 square feet, applied two or three times during the year.
Program
Control of Pests in Home
Gardens : an illustrated talk by J. C. Boyd, Director Emeritus of The Civic Garden Centre. Thursday, May 20, 8 p-m. Admission, members $2.50; nonmembers $3.°
Proceeds to go to the Junior Gardeners vegetable show garden on Sunnybrook land, given for their use by the University Hospitals.
Flower Arranging: In response to popular demand, the Centre offers a 6 week course for beginners in flower arranging, starting on Tuesday, May 25, 8 p.m.
Instructor: Ethel Benson; on Tuesday, May 25, 1:30 p.m. a 5 week course, with classes starting earlier and lastinga little later. Instructor: Genevieve Robertson. For application form, call 445-1552: Fee, §12, members only.
May Gardening Hints
The appearance of crabgrass in lawns cannot be prevented after May 15 or somewhat later in northern areas. If a weed and crabgrass preventer was not applied in April. The first two weeks of May is the last opportunity to do so. By mulching around plants you can cut down on weeds and retain soil moisture.
To control black spot Diplocarpon rosae a disease common to roses spraying or dusting should be started as soon as first leaves appear. The control program should be repeated approximately every ten days. The fungicide to use is captan 50% or benlate.
Leaf miners Phyllotoma nemorata attack white birch Berula causing the leaves to turn brown in July. To prevent this paint a band of Cygon 2E on a small trunk area. This systemic insecticide travels through the tree so that insects are killed as soon as they start to feed.
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Give Your Garden A Lift With A Climbing Vine!
Lois Wilson
sPend twenty-five to fifty cents this spring on some seeds of annual vines and grow your flowers by the yard! Whether you have a spanking new house sitting in a sea of mud, or an older house with an established garden there will be places for annual vines.
Some make a delicate frame for a favourite view, some will hide an ugly fence or a wall. Some wind 15 or 20 feet upa rain spout, some creep only two or three feet over a bare spot in a rockery. All are flowery, lovely to look at and fascinating to grow.
For new homemakers with new gardens these annual vines especially offer a chance to soften harsh lines with mass effects of leaf and flower in one short season. They can be trained over the top of a roof trellis to shade a patio, or up and down on a frame to screena sittingout place. They can be grown as background for yet-to-grow big new planting, or they can be boundary between flower and vegetable or neighbour and neighbour. The scarlet runner, Phaseolus coccineus and the hyacinth bean, Dolichos lablab are edible.
By far the most popular ofthe annual vines are the morning glories, Ipomoea purpurea. Heavenly Blue is truly heavenly blue with a creamy throat; Blue Star has similar colouring, but with the trumpet ribs in a deeper blue forming a star. Scarlet O Hara is a rich dark red, Pearly Gates a lustrous white.
Seed costs from 35 to 50 cents a package, and can be bought from any good seed source. Try to plant your morning glories so that they face east, for they open their trumpets facing the morning sun. And if you want the prettiest breakfast table arrangement you ve ever seen, bring in some of the biggest buds and some leaves the evening before,
and they ll be waiting all open in true morning glory when you come downstairs.
Seeds can be planted directly in the garden after the ground is warm 22°C (72°F). Ground that is wet and cold may rot your seeds. For earlier bloom, start seed indoors in small pots or Jiffy 7 s. We are a firm believer, too, in an hour s soak of all large seeds in a weak solution of liquid fertilizer to give them a good start. Morning glories also germinate more quickly if you nick the hard outer shell of the seed, on the side, with a sharp knife. '
The vines will twine and twist by themselves up any slender support once you start them upwards, but ifyou want them to climb a heavy post or up the house, you will have to make a string support.
Scarlet runner beans and hyacinth beans are dandy vines to teach small boys and girls about gardening. The seeds look a bit like a monkey s face, they germinate easily and have a big sprout. We know from prolonged experience that they can be dug up daily for examination and re-planted with no resulting harm. The runner bean flowers are a good bright fire-engine red, and the hyacinth bean are purplish. You can eat the beans of both varieties when they are young and tender.
Bean seeds can be planted directly where they are to grow, after danger of frost is over, but for children there is a more interesting way. Wrap a piece of blotting paper around the inside of a glass bottle orjellyjar and fill the space in the middle with a moist mixture of charcoal and sand, peat or vermiculite. Then push two or three beans down into the space between the paper and the glass. Keep everything moist but not soaking wet and in a few days the beans
will sprout, make feeder roots, throw up first leaves and your young gardener can see the whole process through the glass.
A favourite with everyone who grows it is the cup and saucer vine, Cobaea scandens. The flowers have a cup of lavender or purple and a pale green calyx for the saucer, and they bloom till frost cuts down the vine. The leaves are graceful with a twisting tendril on the end of each, and they turn a beautiful dark red in the fall which is more intense if the vine is growing in full sun.
You must start the seed of cup and saucer vine indoors to get it to bloom in our Canadian summers. It is flat like a penny and should be planted after a soak in liquid fertilizer, on edge, in a pot or Jiffy 7. As it grows tie it to a slim stake, and when there will be no more frost, plant it outside. It will climb faster and farther ifyou give it a sturdy string support right to the top of where you want it to go.
Another annual vine which blooms from midsummer till frost is the canary bird vine, Tropaeolum peregrinum. 1t is small, delicate and lacy, with bright yellow flowers that really look like little canaries flying through the leaves. The
seed needs no special coddling, but for earlier bloom, start indoors.
Another small vine is the clock vine, Thunbergia alata. Its flowers are shades ofyellow and orange with a dark purple throat. They are about as big as a twenty-five-cent piece, and profuse. This vine makes a good tumbler from hanging containers, or window boxes, and it will climb easily over a pattern of string tied up a wall.
Thunbergia under outdoor seeding does not bloom till mid-September, but started in pots or Jiffy 7°s indoors it will come into bloom in mid-August and go on flowering until it is frozen.
For those of you who like the clean simplicity of green on white, we recommend the annual German ivy, Senecio mikanioides. This is one annual vine that you should buy rooted cuttings of from your florist. It roots so easily it is never propagated from seed, and nearly every greenhouse grows it. Planted out after all danger of frost is over, it will grow so fast you can almost see it moving. It is ideal for covering the wire around the compost heap, that old stump you left when you cut down the dead poplar, or the lattice box around the garbage cans.
Planning a Home Vegetable Garden
H. Tiessen
Department of Horticultural Science
The home vegetable garden can be a hobby for the whole family it ensures plenty of fresh air and exercise and vegetables grown in a well-managed home garden are fresher, may have better nutrient values, and usually cost less than those bought at the store. They can also be harvested at their peak of flavour.
The site should avoid shading from buildings, trees and hedges. Proximity to trees should be avoided, if possible, because crops would have to compete with tree roots for moisture and nutrients. For best growth, a garden should have at least six hours of sunlight.
One of the most important factors is good drainage. A garden can be excessively drained and dry or insufficiently drained and water-logged. Poorly drained soils usually can be improved with field tiles or with raised beds and the use of organic matter.
Garden maintenance can be reduced somewhat by mulching* rows with black plastic or old hay or straw. However, with hay or straw additional nitrogen has to be added to replace the soil nitrogen temporarily locked up by the degeneration of the organic matter.
Tomatoes respond well to mulching, especially to a plastic mulch in which plants are set in the soil through holes punched in the mulch. The mulch controls weeds, increases soil temperatures, conserves soil moisture and accelerates crop maturity.
Garden soils should also contain plenty of organic matter* since this improves the soil structure and makes it easier to till. Organic matter also increases the water-holding capacity of the soil and is essential for the development of beneficial microorganisms.
There are many sources of organic matter. Farm manure, applied at 300 to 500 pounds per 1,000 square feet ofsoil, can be turned under with 20 pounds of 0-20-0 fertilizer in spring at soil preparation time. Poultry and sheep manure are used at only about a third the rate of other livestock manures. Leaves, lawn clippings, peat and sawdust are other sources of organic matter. These materials should be turned under with 25 pounds of 15-15-15 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of soil. It is best to turn under the organic matterwith the fertilizer in the fall. Green manure crops, such as rye or oats, are sown in fall after harvest at two to five pounds per 1,000 square feet of soil and are worked under early the following spring.
Commercial fertilizer can be broadcast and included in the spring soil preparation. Usually 20 pounds ofa 1515-15 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of soil is satisfactory.
Many garden crops benefit by additional fertilizer applications later on in the season. Cucumbers, squash, melons, broccoli and cabbage respond to a sidedressing four to six weeks after planting of a half pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet ofrow. Side-dressing for tomatoes should be made only after the first flower clusters set fruit. In a home garden, it is possible to apply soluble fertilizers through the irrigation system.
Most vegetables require a supply of moisture throughout the growing period. In Ontario, the average of about two to three inches of rainfall per month during the growing season is about 65 percent of crop requirement and so additional water is necessary. The more critical periods of water requirement for some crops are as follows: beans require water most during and after flowering; sweet corn during ear formation; tomatoes during fruit setting and sizing; and cucumbers dur-
ing fruit sizing. A rule ofthumb, for example, is that a sandy soil should have one inch of water a week from rain or irrigation. The amount of rainfall can usually be determined by an inexpensive water gauge that can be purchased at local feed stores or garden centres, or a simple tin can to catch the rain.
In choosing the vegetables to grow, consideration must be given to the size of garden, family preferences and the area where it is located. In a small garden, perhaps one or two vegetables such as tomatoes and radishes are all that should be grown and space-consuming crops such as squash, melons, cucumbers and potatoes should be avoided.
In Ontario, we are limited somewhat by prevailing climatic conditions. For instance, in southwestern Ontario the number of frost-free days varies from 110 to 165, the longest frost-free area being in the most southerly part of the province. Thus by knowing the number of frost-free days in a particular area, the crops and the varieties that grow best can be determined.
Because of limited space, the garden should be used to best advantage, for example, by planning a succession of crops. Early crops like lettuce could be followed by radishes and spinach, followed by late beets, carrots or cabbage. Several varieties of sweet corn with different maturity dates could be seeded at the same time.
Intercropping may also be an alternative. Quick-maturing crops such as lettuce, radishes and spinach may be planted between rows of tomatoes, eggplants and other widely spaced crops which occupy the ground during the entire season.
Another consideration is closer-thannormal plant spacing because of the intensive nature of cultivation of the home garden. This can be quite successful because in a home garden, higher plant competition can be overcome by more intensive watering, fertilizing and general care.
Immediately before planting outdoors, water plants with a starter solution of 10-52-17 fertilizer at the rate of one ounce per gallon of water. The plants should be removed from the containers with minimum root damage and holes should be dug deep enough so
that the complete root system is covered. Where peat pots are used, they should be completely covered with soil, otherwise the top acts as a wick, the peat pot then dries out and this constricts the root system which is unable to get through the peat and continue to grow in the soil.
Plants can be protected from wind with some kind ofwindbreak. For every foot of height of the windbreak, protection is offered for a distance of 10 feet. Artificial windbreaks such as snow fences can be quite effective in protecting the plants in early spring. The plants can be protected also with hotcaps or covers (polyethylene covers) of some type. Plants can become established more rapidly by using plastic mulch to increase soil temperatures, and so usually will mature one to two weeks sooner.
*Mulching - the act of spreading any material straw, wood chips on the soil surface to reduce water loss and weed growth or to moderate soil temperatures.
*Organic matter is an%1P:m ofany substance which once had life animal, vegetable, or their byproducts.
DON'T MISS
THE CIVIC GARDEN
CENTRE'S
PLANTERAMA
SATURDAY, MAY 15 10 am. to 5 p.m.
An annual Spring Sale of Gardening Needs, Plants Cuttings Soil Fertilizers Equipment Everything for the Gardener and Home Hobbyist.
PROCEEDS in aid of Centre programs; donations of plant material, cuttings, seeds or other useful gardening items, i.e. pots, vases, tools, etc. are solicited from members.
The Hardier, The Better, For Home Fruit Trees and Bushes
R. E. CLASS
Kemptville College of Agricultural Technology
Growing fruits in the home garden can be a rewarding and satisfying experience considering the present high cost of food. But before planting any woody perennial fruit trees, bushes or vines, it is important to consider the winter hardiness of the species, since these plants must be able to withstand low winter temperatures.
It should be noted that an area centrally located between the lakes and the 12 eastern counties has recorded low temperatures of 40°C ( 40°F). While it is possible to grow apples such as the MclIntosh in these areas, late-maturing varieties like Spy and Delicious trees cannot be expected to survive very long.
Similarly, dwarf apple trees, grown on the present size-controlling rootstocks, should not be used in these areas since they have shown a tendency to low temperature injury. Commercially, most ofthe pears and (sour) cherries are grown where the lowest recorded temperature is below 34°C ( 30°F), while tender fruits like peaches and grapes are confined to areas like Niagara, where the lowest temperature recorded is 29°C ( 20°F).
Hardiness is governed by a number offactors and it is sometimes possible to grow fruits outside ofthe recommended areas, providing a well-protected local situation exists.
Apples: Under Ontario conditions all varieties of apples must be considered as self-unfruitful, and so two or more varieties should be planted to insure cross-pollination. Quinte and Red Melba are two of the best early eating apples, ripening in August. Mclntosh, which has been a popular dessert apple for many years, ripens in late September. Unfortunately, it is very susceptible 20 / May 1976
to apple scab and in wet years unsightly and disfigured fruit is plentiful. One of the best cooking apples, ripening a week later than Mclntosh, is Rhode Island Greening. The popularity of the Delicious variety is evidenced by a large increase in the commercial plantings of both Red and Golden sports.
To produce apples of good size these trees need higher temperatures than Mclntosh and should only be grown in the warmer parts of the province. Northern Spy is one ofthe last apples to be harvested. It ranks high as a processing variety and is also in demand on the fresh fruit market. Unfortunately, it is slow to bear.
In addition to apples some ofthe hardier tree fruit varieties that can be grown in the areas showing extreme lows of 34°C ( 30°F) or lower are:
Pears: Bartlett, Flemish Beauty, Kieffer, Clapp Favorite and Menie. Barlett is least hardy and' Menie the hardiest of this group.
Sour Cherries: Montmorency or Meteor.
Plums: Mount Royal and Grenville. Currants and Gooseberries: Currants and gooseberries can be grown in all parts of southern Ontario. While they are not extensively grown commercially, they are a favorite of recent emigrants from the British Isles. Red Lake and Stephens No. 9 are two red currant varieties that have proven very productive over the years. Kerry, Magnus and Topsy are worthwhile black currant varieties, but they all suffer from currant rust. On the other hand, the black currant variety Consort is resistant to rust and therefore might better be grown in the home garden. Many gooseberry plants, like the variety Pixwell, are covered with spines, making harvesting uncomfortable. Captivator is a productive midseason variety that is almost spineless.
Children s Activity Page
Find the Hidden Plants
Instructions for finding the hidden plants. Below the puzzle you will find the list of plants hidden in the puzzle. Circle the hidden plants named in the puzzle.
ANNUAL FLOWERS
SRATNWALLFLOWERS
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| DAK.I
EINAM
NV INN
DL PANSYPQ
RASUNFLOWE
5 O FE SORMIR
NYROLGGNIN
TSOWAWXBTTPOMLN |
EPLFEKFCJWESOUJUPN
NLILPGLDXEILQRSN
OXNOTHNVWSALOI VI
NMAWEPZUYYOXLITA GNNEEZMUTSSIRI VYV
NNRWQSRWVYTXWAU
Names of Vegetables in Puzzle COLEUS
Coming Events of notable Gardening and Floral Arts Interest
May 18, 1976
A Midsummer Night s Dream, Ninth Annual Flower Show by the Milne House Garden Club, at St. Bonaventure s Church Hall, 1300 Leslie St. from 1:30 p.m. to 9:00.
June 5-6, 1976
Rhododendron Society of Canada, Annual Meeting and Flower Show, at The Montreal Botanic Gardens, from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Contact: Ken Duncan at (416) 447-8046.
June 12, 1976
Canadian Iris Society, Flower Show at the Civic Garden Centre from 3:00 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.
June 16-17-18, 1976
Ontario Horticultural Association Convention, at Sir Wilfrid Laurier University, Waterloo, Ontario. Contact: Russell F. Gomme (416) 965-1091.
L&S
June 20, 1976
The Peony Society Flower Show, at the Civic Garden Centre from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
June 27, 1976
Tournament of Roses, sponsored by Canadian Rose Society, in the ballroom of the Harbour Castle Hotel, from 1:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Auction of the show s roses at closing time.
Greenhouse Contracting
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FOUR STEPS TO A BEAUTIFUL LAWN.
So-Green has developed an easy-to-follow, four step program that will guarantee you a beautiful lawn. Each step will be outlined in this publication during the coming months.
STEP1:MARCH/APRIL.
To get your lawn off to a fast healthy start, apply So-Green Premium 21-7-7. This formula contains all the nutrients a lawn needs after the long Canadian winter.
If you were troubled with crabgrass last year, apply SoGreen Crabgrass Killer plus 10-5-10 fertilizer now. It will kill your crabgrass and feed your lawn at the same time.
Premium is available in 50, 25 and 12% Ib. bags. Apply at the rate of 5 Ibs. per 1000 sgq. ft. Crabgrass Killer is available in 40 and 20 Ib. bags and 5 Ib. boxes. Apply at the rate of 8 Ibs. per 1000 sq. ft.
For a free copy of the complete So-Green Four Step Program write to the address below.
So-Green Division, F. Manley Corporation,25Lesmill Road, Don Mills, Ontario.
Trellis
e Full colour throughout ¢ 136 pages e over 1200 trees and other plants
