The newsletter of the Civi November, 1994

Tickets are limited. Register early to avoid dzsappomtment. - No refunds can be issued after Thursday, November 0
The newsletter of the Civi November, 1994
Tickets are limited. Register early to avoid dzsappomtment. - No refunds can be issued after Thursday, November 0
The Civic Garden Centre promotes involvement in gardening, horticulture and the related arts. It is a volunteer not-for-profit resource centre. Registered charity number 0228114-56.
Located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East in North York, the Centre serves members throughout Metropolitan Toronto and across Ontario. The Civic Garden Centre is pleased to rent facilities for meetings, receptions, exhibits and shows. Please contact our rental agent.
Hours:
Winter (November 1 to March 31): weekdays 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; weekends and holidays noon to4:00 p.m. Summer (April 1 to October31): weekdays 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p-m.; weekends and holidays noon to 5:00 p.m.
Telephone: Area code 416.
Main number: 397-1340
Rentals: 397-1349
Library: 397-1340
Trellis Shop: 397-1357
Courseinformation: 397-1340
Fax: 397-1354
Gardening hotline: 397-1345 (hours: noon to 3:00 p.m.)
Board of directors:
Chair: Robin Wilson
Members: Cicely Bell
Mary Anne Brinckman
Bayla Gross
John Howard
Louise Kappus
Nancy Laurie
Peter Lewis
Mary Mingie
David Money
Maureen Naylor
Anthea O'Reagan
Lynne Robbins
Helen Shaw
Roger Silverthorne
Honorary counsel:
Aird and Berlis
Civic Garden Centre staff members:
Executive director: Sally Sullivan
Accounts: Janie Brentnall
Courses: Ann Warren
Trellis Editor: Iris Hossé Phillips
Horticulturists:
Anne Marie Van Nest
Helen Craig
Librarian: Pamela MacKenzie
Maintenance supervisor: Walter Morassutti
Rental agent: Betsy Chubb
Secretary: Shirley Lyons
Trellis Shop manager: Sarah Lay
Trellis Shop assistant manager: Barbara Stevenson
Volunteer co-ordinator and publicity: Carolyn Dalgarno
Volume 21, Number 10
Editor: Iris Hossé Phillips
Editorial co-ordinator: Leslie Lynch
Advertising information: (416) 397-1340
Printed by Raised Image, Etobicoke, on recycled paper
Trellis is published ten times a year as amembers newsletter by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, North York, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone number: (416) 397-1340.
Manuscripts submitted on a voluntary basis are gratefully received. No remuneration is possible.
Articles, manuscripts and advertising material must be received by the 15th of the month to insure publication six weeks later. For example, material received by January 15 will be included in the March issue of Trellis.
Opinions expressed within 7rellis do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre. Submissions may be edited for style and clarity.
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission.
By Iris Phillips
Lastmonth[wroteaboutthenaturalgarden and the many new books that are coming out on that topic. I have decided that my hesitation and half-hearted endorsement comes from my interest in gardens that have structure and form. Thenaturalgardensthat Ihaveseenoften look unattended and appear to be based ontheprincipleofself-determinationwith theaggressiveplantsdominant. Manyof the new books counsel that we must reeducate the eye and adjust our taste . The idea is succinctly noted in Taylors GuidetoNatural Gardeningwiththewarning, Visitorswillwonderwhenyouplan to start gardening.
Back to the reality of the November garden,Istillhavedeadplantstopullout, stalkstocutdownandbulbstoplant. The lasttaskis anexperimentas itmaybetoo latetoestablishbulbs. However, Ibought a supply of left over bulbs at a plant sale and amwilling to takethechance. Spring will tell if I am lucky.
Thankstothemanymemberswhosent inphotographsoftheirgardensandplants. The expense of reproducing the photographs is costly so I must use them sparingly. I will return the photos after we haveprintedtheminTrellis.Manythanks foryourkindnessandsharingyourtreasures with the membership.
As usual, the Centre is a very busy placeinthefall.Wehopethatyouwilljoin us for some of our events we look forward to Mistletoe Magic, the Centre s popularshowandsale; theWilliamsburg Christmas seminar with Libbey Hodges Oliver;anotherEdwardsGardenEvening; and the opportunity to obtain seasonal plants at the December plant sale. Hope to see you at the Centre.
Sally Sullivan
TheBoardofDirectorshasacceptedaletter ofresignationfromSallySullivan,excutive director, effective January 3, 1995.
Sallyhasmademanycontributionsover the years and willbe missed.
TheBoardwillshowitsappreciationfor Sally sdedicationtothestaffandthemembers of the Centre at the November 24 members evening. We hopethatyou will attendandjointheBoard inextending best wishes to Sally.
Lighting to be improved
WehaveareportfromBoardmemberJohn Howard on progress of the lighting in the parkinglot. Despitetheinitialdelaysinthe selection of a contractor and the start of construction, the installation of an improved parking lot lighting system is proceeding well.
Constructionhasbeenplannedtominimize the inconvenience to visitors of the Civic Garden Centre and Edwards Gardens,whilemaintainingthenecessarylighting through the process.
Thursday, November 17, 7:00 to 9:00 p.m.
Members: $80
Non-members: $90
Participants must have previous flowerarranging instruction. Materialswillbeprovided. Pleasebringclippers. Registrationislimitedto35. No refundscanbeissuedafterThursday, November10.Registrationform is on page 9.
We are fortunate to be able to offer this two-hour workshop with Libbey Hodges Oliver, Williamsburg s talented floral expert.
Createa dramaticplaqueusing freshand dried plant materials, cones, berries, nuts, pods and fruit, for either indoor or outdoor use. Materials used will be available in the Toronto area, so can be replenished as required through the season.
Plaques are often used to decorate windows, walls, stairways, or combined in a mantel decoration with personal treasures. They can also be effectively adapted as newel post decorations or used outdoors to accent doorways or windowsills.
Let your creativity and skills create an elegant design for your home. .
Thursday, November 24
7:30 p.m.
Speaker: Janet Rosenberg, one of Toronto s leading landscape architects
Janet Rosenberg is founder and principal ofJanet Rosenberg and Associates Landscape Architects Inc. For the last 14 years she has created both residential and commercial gardens in Southern Ontario. Commissions include 24 Sussex Drive, The Park Plaza Hoteland YorkUniversity. Janetis currently the landscapeand horticultural consultant to Loblaws Supermarkets Limited and continues to design many commercial and residentialdevelopments. Forthepastsevenyears,manyofherresidential gardenshave been featured on the Civic Garden Centre s yearly garden tour, Through The Garden Gate. Most recently, Janet has been honoured with the Governor General s Medal recognizing her contribution to the community and to Canada.
Withastrongbackgroundinsitedevelopmentandconceptualanddetaildesign,Janet emphasizes the use of design and management skills in all site development. This evening s slideillustrated talkwilldeal with three components ofa good garden design colour, form and texture.
WhatbettertimethanNovember,when thegrowingseason hascometoanend, tosit backandassessyoursuccessesandfailuresduringthepastyearandstarttoplanfor1995? This evening will help us to create that elusive perfect garden.
Marjorie Harris, journalist and author whose special interest is gardening and ecology, has undertaken the organization ofthe Edwards Foundation Garden Evenings.
TheEdwardsFoundation Garden EveningsarefundedbytheEdwards CharitableFoundation which helps the Civic Garden centreprovide its membersand thepublic with excitingand varied presentations on topics related to gardening. There is no admission chargefor members of the Centre; non-members, $4.
On Thursday November 24, the Centre s shop and library will be open in the evening. Come early, browse, and shop for Christmas gifts.
Trellis, November 1994
By Anne Marie Van Nest, Civic Garden Centre horticulturist
Paperwhites are amazing bulbs that guarantee powerfully fragrant bloems. For adults and children alike, they are the easiest bulb to force indoors, requiring no special skills, a little water and a warm, sunny room. Growingpaperwhitebulbsisagreat project for children or grandchildren!
How to grow paperwhites
Becausetheflowerbudsarealreadyformed inside the bulb when they are purchased, paperwhitesareeasytogrow. Paperwhites donotrequirethecoldtreatmentthatother narcissus need to force blooms.
PlantingbulbsearlyinOctoberwillproduceflowersinlate November(eightweeks later). However, the later planting is delayed, the shorter the time till bloom appears. If bulbs are planted in late December, they might bloom in as short as three weeks. This is due to the flower bud advancing in the bulb as time progresses.
Plant the dormant bulbs any time from October to January. Plant a succession of bulbs for blooms from December through February. Usethebiggestbulbspossibleto get the best showing of blooms.
The growing medium can be anything gravel,pebbles,stonesorsoil thatwill anchorthebulbandrootswhilepreventing the bulb from toppling when it reaches its blooming height. Place a thin layer of the medium in the bottom of a shallow containerthat will hold water or usea shallow flowerpot with peat moss orsterilized soil. Next, place thebulbs on top ofthe soil with the pointed ends (the noses ) up, thenfill in between the bulbs with more soil or stones. Let the top third of the bulbs stick out above the soil or stones, with the top of thebulb evenwiththerimofthe container.
Water wellif they are planted in soil or
addwatertothebaseofthebulbifgrowing in stones. Small pieces of charcoal will keep the water fresh or change the water every three days.
Placing the potsina cool, darklocation for two weeks is often recommended so thatthebulbswill send outagoodgrowth ofrootsbefore the leaves and flowerbuds start. Occasionallytherootswillheavethe bulbs out of the stones. If this happens, gently work the bulb back down or add more stones.
Place thebowl orpotinabright, sunny windowat 18° C (60° F); don tlet thebulbs freeze. Excessively warm temperatures oftencause stems to weakenand theplant droops. Ifthishappens,anattractivenatural raffia tie will keep the blooms upright; ordecorateyourpotswithmossortrailing ivy to hide the stems.
Onceblooming, the pots canbe moved anywhere but bloom will last longer in a cool location with bright indirect light. Look for more than two weeks worth of bloom.
Consider yourbulbs a midwinter treat, then compost them. Paperwhites that are
forcedusealmostalloftheirstored foodto produce leaves and flowers; they cannot replenishthisaseasilyasamarylliscan. To trytosavethem,keepthepaperwhiteplants in a cool, bright, frost-free place and fertilize with high potassium fertilizer to strengthen the bulbs. After the leaves die down in the late spring, allow thebulbs to go dormant. Then dry out the bulbs and keep them warm (not sunbaked) until the fall. Repot them and start the forcing procedureagain. Theresultsofkeepingbulbs for a second year are unreliable and for forcing purposes, it is better to buy new bulbs each fall.
Paperwhites are Narcissus, a type that is not hardy in our climate. Botanically they areknownasNarcissustazetta(tazzameans cup), Narcissus grandiflora, Narcissus canaliculatus or Narcissus papyraceus. Paperwhites do not require the cold treatment that other narcissus need to force blooms.
Paperwhites are native to the hills and grassy areas of the Mediterranean where they bloom during the spring (January to May). Paperwhites were imported from Spain by Clusius in 1565 and have been grown commercially ever since. They are now grown commercially in Israel and exported to Canada via the Netherlands.
Oneoftheearliestrecordswasa wreath (still in good condition) found in an Egyptian tomb more than 4,000 years after the burial .
The yellow form of paperwhite called Grand Soleil d Or isNarcissus tazetta subspecies aureus. It is native to southern FranceandnorthwesternItaly. Ithaslarger flowers but fewer on each stem. In their nativehabitat, theyflowerfromJanuaryto March.
Narcissus tazetta variety Orientalis is a beautiful paperwhite type called Chinese
SacredLily. On each stem, there are three or four blooms, white with a yellow cup. The Victorians were crazy about this bulb that is neither Chinese, considered sacred nor a lily.
Of interest are a double cream and yellow (DoubleRomanConstantinople),very fragrant;andSheleg,purewhitewithlarge flowers.
Paperwhite bulbs are available in the Trellis ShopfromOctobertoDecember. Specialthanks to the Netherlands Flowerbulb Information Centre for information on Narcissus tazetta andfor providing the paperwhite picture.
FEATURING HANDCRAFTED GIFTS, DISTINCTIVE BOUTIQUES, CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS, SPECIALTY FOODS AND UNIQUE CRAFTS. ALSO SERVING MORNING COFFEE, LUNCH AND AFTERNOON TEA.
NOVEMBER 3, 4, 5 AND 6, 1994
THURSDAY AND FriDAY: 10:00 a.M. TO 6:00 P.M. SATURDAY AND SUNDAY: 10:00 A.M. TO 5:00 P.M. at the
Civic GARDEN CENTRE FREE PARKING Apwmission: $5
Members day:
Friday, December2, 10:00 a.m. to 7:00p.m.
Public sale: Saturday and Sunday, December3 and 4, noon to 4:00 p.m.
Take advantage ofyour Civic Garden Centre membership by ordering before November28 to receive a 10% discount on all your Christmas plants. Or ifyou would like to choose your Christmas plants size or colour on the spot , just bring your membership card on Friday, December2toreceiveyourdiscountandshopfromourextensiveunreservedsection. Afundraiser for the Civic Garden Centre.
4" Poinsettia
6" Poinsettia
$3.69
$5.99
Red [ ]
White [ | 51ol e
Red [ | White [ ] Pink [ | Marble [ | Pink Peppermint [ ]
8" Poinsettia
$16.99
Red [ | White Pink [ ] Red/White Pink Peppermint Pink/White
10" Poinsettia
$23.99
Red [ | White
3' Poinsettia Tree
6" Cyclamen
6" Azalea
$42.99
$10.99
Pink [ | Tricolour [ ] e|
Red [ ]
White [ | Pink |-
Assorted colours I:l Colour
$17.49
Assorted colours |:| Colour
8" Christmas Planter $13.99
Assorted plants :
* Pre-order your plants by calling (416) 397-1355 before November 28. Pre-orders can also be mailed, faxed (416) 397-1354 or left at the Centre.e All varieties are subject to availability. e Please pay for your plants on member s pre-order day, December 2. ® A selectionofnewpoinsettiasandotherChristmasplantswillalsobeavailable. ® Ourprices are the sameas last year! e Allplants willbe wrapped forwinterprotection. ® Questions or volume orders? Call (416) 397-1355.
NAME PHONE (DAY)
ADDRESS CITY
C.G.C. MEMBERSHIP NUMBER EXPIRY DATE
POSTAL CODE
Everythingfor the backyard birder! Includingthe finestqualityseeds and 8 unique mixes from Wilderness Feed.
317 Millwood Rd. (at Mt Pleasant) Tel: 416-484-4080
Garden projects, fall cleanup-putyourgarden tobed forwinterproperly thisyearandreapthebenefitsnextspring.Windows washedbothinsideorout. Painting. Call Stephen, (416)362-7434.Reasonable rates,referencesprovided.
1] Where else could you 11 | find a huge selection of L1 English Architectural L4+ Trellises, tons of L=+ imported Terra Cotta Support the people pots, planters, Topiary... i i and Scarecrows, too!?!
Who advertlse in Come and stroll through our unique 1 Botanical Warehouse and Garden Tre ls Centre for an exciting and rewarding sensory experience! D Something For Lreryone/r/ \e
ARMSTRONG & BLACKBURY HORTICULTURAL PRODUCTS 16 BETHRIDGE ROAD, REXDALE (416) 747-7116
with The Snowman Factory
A show and sale of heirloom Christmas decorations, centrepieces, gifts and home decorations.
CHRISTMAS HOURS: SHOP EVERY DAY NOV. 26 - DEC. 11 11am. -5 p.m.
Festive luncheon, by advance reservation, ;?RPSI;i?f{EECTION$25. BIRDHOUSES
November 21, 22, 23, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; FOUNTAINS November 24, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. LANTERNS at The McLean House ( Sunnybrook PEDESTTf?{LS Hospital grpunds), ;)II:I[];NDIEALSS 2075 Bayview Avenue URNS Free admission, parking, MANYORIGINAL DESIGNS and refreshments. PERSONALIZED GIFT CERTIFICATES
Information: Call (905)856-76699
Membership inthe Civic Garden Centre makes a long-lastinggift fora special gardener. Enjoy a fullyearofprograms, courses,reading and volunteering,.
OPEN WEEKENDS 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. or other days with a phone call
1094 Derry Road West, 4 km. West of the Guelph Line, N. ofHwy. 5, S. of401
DerryRoad West ends at Pickletree Farm (905) 336-1398
Q. How do I carefor a dieffenbachia?
A. Itdoes well in a warm temperature, notbelow 60°F in winter. Put it in partial shade in summer and bright sunlight in winter. Water regularly throughout the year, letting the top ofthe soil dry outbetweenwaterings. Itneedshigh humidity,so mist it or stand the pot on pebbles in water. Feed iteverytwoweekswhenitisactivelygrowing.The sap is poisonous, so be careful to wash your hands after removing leaves or taking cuttings.
Stand dieffenbachia in a pebble trayto give humidity
Q. Ishall be moving to a new home this winterand I'd like to take some lilies and daylilies to the newgarden. How should I do this?
A. Dig up the plants (bulbs and tubers) now and put them into large clay pots, then sink the pots so that the plants are at the same depth in the earth. Mulch the area wellwithstraworasix-inchlayerofleaves,soyoucandig them up easily. Tryto arrange for a place to put the pots Moving lilies. Bury in a clay pot, inthegroundinthenewgarden. Taketheplantsoutofthe mulch over, so the pot canbe pots and put them in the ground as soon as the soil is dug up afterfrost workable in spring.
Q. [Thaveaprojectongraftingpiantsformyschoolclass. What house plants would be suitable?
A. Cacti and miniature roses would do well.
Cactus graft held in Wedge-shaped place by cottonwool cactus graft held ball and rubber bands in place by a Thanks to Vivien Jenkinsonfor illustrations. : cactus spine
Gardening questions? Call the Master Gardeners Hotline (416) 397-1345 daily, noon to 3:00 p.m.
Carolyn Dalgarno, volunteer co-ordinator
Ifyou haven tyet volunteered toworka shiftat Mistletoe Magic,please pickup the telephone and call us now at (416) 397-1340.
Volunteers are also needed for the sale of Christmas plants: Thursday,December1 setupday. Theplantsshouldarriveat9:00a.m.and, with a good team, we should be finished by noon. Friday, December 2 members pre-order day. Volunteers needed for morning, afternoon and early evening shifts.
SaturdayandSundayDecember3and4 noonto4:00p.m. Thisisthepublic sale.
ForallofyouwhohavesogenerouslyvolunteeredyourtimetotheCentreduring the past year, please mark Wednesday, December 7 on your calendar for the volunteer recognition party. Come and meet others who have helped make this another successful year for the Civic Garden Centre.
Registrationform: The Civic GardenCentre sprograms
Phone, (416) 397-1340, mail orfax (416) 397-1354 thisform to the Centre.
We are lookingforward to a special Holiday Season at the Trellis Shop. Come in soon to see our newgift items.
Colonial Williamsburg nail-studded
Bronze Footed Bowl A classic shape which wooden Cone. "Allows one to unleash their complements an arrangement of fruit or imagination and create decorative centre- flowers for the table. $56.00 pieces for the holidays." Fruit is impaled on the nails either randomly or by design. 10" - $48.00, 7" - $39.00
o
The Pineapple Light You can create a memorable centrepiece by impaling any fruit or vegetable from your kitchen or garden on this useful stand. $19.50
Martha Stewart Collection of Writing Papers This portfolio includes 5 writing sheets and envelopes, 5 notecards, seals and 5 postcards. Depictions of a variety of fruits & vegetables including the pineapple. $25.00
The Pineapple is the traditional sign of welcome...
The Trellis Shop is open from 9-5 weekdays and from 12-5 Saturday & Sunday. Call 397-1357formore information.
IKEBANA INTERNATIONAL Toronto Chapter 208 PRESENTS:
ANNUAL FLOWER SHOW
KYOTO 1200TH ANNIVERSARY: TRADITION AND CREATION
Saturday, November 19, 1994
10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
SPECIAL DEMONSTRATION: ELAINE JO Master of Ichiyo School of Ikebana From Sweetwater, Tennessee, U.S.A.
2:00 p.m., Floral Hall
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, Edwards Gardens, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, North York
Admission: $ 7.00 Tickets available at door. Tearoom and Ginza sale of Ikebana Supplies.
Let the Civic Garden Centre help with your Christmas holidaygift-giving.
Spectacularpoinsettias in decorative baskets or othergardening gifts can be custom-designed forany situation this holiday season.
Call Helen Craig orAnne Marie Van Nest at (416) 397-1355 for a consultation. Volume discounts apply. Delivery can also be arranged at reasonable rates.
When you're atwork on the garden you love, remember Sheridan Nurseries. At Sheridan, we have expert staffto help you, and the finest selection ofnursery stock in Canada, including over 750 types ofplants and trees grown on ourown farms. And all ofour nursery stock is guaranteed for two full years.
Need any advice to help make your garden even lovelier? Gardens
By Sheridan landscape designers offer everything from peerless consultation and planningtocomplete construction and maintenance services. All for the love ofgardens, at Sheridan Nurseries.
MISSISSAUGA ETOBICOKE TORONTO 606SouthdownRd. 700EvansAve. 2827YongeSt. MississaugaL5]2Y4 EtobicokeMO9C1A1 TorontoM4N2J4 Tel.8220251 Tel.621-9100 Tel.481-6429
PICKERING UNIONVILLE KITCHENER 1755PickeringPkwy. 4077Hwy.#7 100ElmadaleRd. PickeringL1V 1CO UnionvilleL3R 1L5 KitchenerN2E 1H6 Tel.4286316 Tel.477-2253 Tel.7434146
GARDENSBYSHERIDAN:MetropolitanToronto,Markham,MississaugaandOakville Tel. 822-7575
By Frank Kershaw, Civic Garden Centre member
Many bulbs can be naturalized in grass, meadows and woodlands. Planting them permanently and allowing them to spread and multiply suits my natural gardening taste. Itcertainlygivesbulbsalonger,richer career thantheone-seasonstands they usually receive in flower beds. It also saves dollars and time that would otherwise be expended in planting new bulbs each year.
Keep in mind that the term bulbs usually includes some plants that are not strictly bulbs. True bulbs such as tulips, narcissis, lilies and fritillaryhavescale-likestructures that store plant food. These scales are connectedbyabasalplatefromwhichthefeeder roots emanate.
Manyotherplants, however,behavelike bulbsand are, therefore, usuallyconsidered asbulbs (corms, tubers and rhizomes). Like truebulbs,theyhaveenlargedunderground storage structures, (such as crocus corms, windflower tubers and lily of the valley rhizomes) thatstorefoodsmanufacturedby the plant.
Many bulbs used in our gardens have their origins in woodlands, meadows and grasslands around theMediterranean, from Portugal and Spain to Asia Minor, where they are considered wildflowers.
English gardeners, appreciating these origins, have long used bulbs in like areas, naturalizing them at country estates and botanical gardens. Canadians have been somewhatslowerto catch onto thesepossibilities. Canada is viewed as fertile ground fornaturalizingbulbsasmanyregionshave the warm, moist springs and hot, dry summers that favor many bulbs.
Bulbs inwoodlands should have anatural look
As a wildflower and shade garden enthusiast, I have long appreciated the value of
naturalizedbulbsunderasingletree,group of shrubs or woodland area. With many bulbs blooming in the early spring (snowdrops,winteraconite,bluesquill,grapehyacinth and so on), the arrival of spring is heraldedandgardeners heartswarmedlong before the soil has thawed out. These early bulbsareparticularlyeffectivewhenplanted against the light-colored bark of beech, serviceberry,whitebirchandmagnoliatrees.
Smaller bulbs, like glory of the snow (ChionodoxalucilliaeandChionodoxasardensis), andbluesquillsarealsostrikingwhennaturalized against the shallow surface roots of beech and maple trees.
Bulbsthatflowerlaterinthespring,such asSpanishbluebells(Hyacinthoideshispanica), Greek windflower (Anemone blanda), snakesheadfrittilary(Fritillariameleagris)and trumpetdaffodilsareveryeffectivenaturalized below taller shrubs or mixed with perennials. TrySpanishbluebellsunderacopse of redbud (Cercis canadensis) or grape hyacinths and white foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia) in large informal drifts.
Naturalizedbulbscanalsobeusedaround ponds and streams to define their outline and createplayful reflections. Suitablecandidates are daffodils (large trumpet narcissus),troutlilies(Erythroniumspecies),snowflakes (Leucojum species) and fritillary. Hostas,daylilies,fernsandirisesmakegood companions to take over when the bulbs disappear in the summer.
Woodland bulbs favorneutralsoil, good drainage and light shade. Accordingly, select locations along a woodland edge, borderingpathsorundertreesthatleafoutafter thebulbshavebloomed. Removingsomeof the lower tree branches to let in more light willalsohelp. Reviewtheplantinglocations when the trees are in leaf to determine the bestlocationsandbemindfulofthelocation
of existing wildflowers to avoid damage.
I avoid using the more exotic split cup and strongly bi-colored narcissus in woodlandsas they seemmoreappropriateinformal plantings. Larger drifts of the same species or cultivar are preferred for mass appeal.
Thewiltingandyellowingoffoliageafter blooming (referredtoasbulbripening) may be objectionable to some gardeners. Plant early-blooming bulbs closer to tree trunks with later-flowering bulbs further out so that the later bulbs mask thebrowning foliage of the earlier bulbs. Ferns, hostas and other shade plants make excellent screens for masking the ripening foliage. Or try someofthebeautifulmartagonlilies(Lilium martagon) which bloom in early summer.
Knowing the plant hardiness zone for your area and the bloom period of various bulbs is essential for producing effective plant combinations.
Favorable microclimates in your garden maypresentopportunitiestotrysomeofthe more tender bulbs and advance the bloom time. A protected area that loses its ground frost early will see the same species bloom ahead of an exposed, shaded area by as much as two weeks. You can also extend bloom time by planting later-flowering cultivars of the same species or planting somebulbs slightly deeper.
When plantingbulbs in woodland areas, avoid the practiceoftossing thebulbs up in the air and planting them where they fall. Notonlywillthisresultinlessthandesirable patterns, but you can also lose some! Instead, try some long drifts with 50 or more bulbs,withlargerbulbsplantedatleast15to 20 cm apart and smaller bulbs about 8 cm apart. Larger bulbs should be planted at least 18 cm deep and smaller bulbs 6 cm (bulbs can be planted somewhat deeper in sandy soils). Bulbs that are planted too shallow are more susceptible to frost heaving, whereas those planted too deep willbe weakened as they try to reach their true
heights. Deeper planting also places the bulbs below the root level of most wildflowers, thereby minimizing competition.
Spring-bloomingbulbsshouldbeplanted intheearlyfallwhenthesoiltemperatureis between 8° and 15° C in order to allow sufficient timeforrootingbeforefrost. This is particularly true with narcissus, snakeshead fritillary and troutlilies thatare slow toroot. Ifyou haveleftitabitlate,you can always try soaking the bulbs in tepid water which may invigorate root production. A bulb planter or strong trowel is recommended fordiggingbulb holesasopposed to a short shovel or spade that can damage surrounding plants.
Naturalized woodland bulbs are, forthe most part, low maintenance plants. Fertilizer should notbe required, providing you start with a humus-rich, well-drained soil and allow leaf decomposition to add nutrients to thesoil. Leafmulchapplied oncethe ground is frozen will further protect bulbs from dislodging due to freeze-thaw cycles.
Squirrels, chipmunks, voles and ice will unearthnaturalizedwoodlandbulbsifgiven the chance. Narcissus are usuallyleft alone because of a poisonous, milky sap in the bulb. Other bulbs can be protected in basketsmadeofchickenwirethatwillallowthe leafand flowerbud throughbutdiscourage digginganimals. Don tforgettoremovethe onion-likeskinaroundmanybulbs. Iflefton the ground, this is a sure give-away that bulbs were recently planted. Placing leaf mulchandotherforestlitterovertheplanted areawillalsomaskyourefforts. Somebulbs can also become somewhat invasive Star ofBethlehem(Ornithogalumumbellatum)and golden garlic (Allium moly), for example spreading quickly and outcompeting other desirable plants. This can be controlled by removing seed heads or by hand pulling.
Bulbs in grassy areas: why not?
A second application fornaturalizingbulbs
is in grassy areas. Trumpet narcissus has been a favorite in this regard because of its size and strength. Plantings in grass areas should be bold, sweeping compositions in theshapeoflongdriftsorcrescents,thickest atthestartandthinningoutattheend. Keep to the same species or cultivar in each drift and stress distinct, vivid colors. As bulbs multiply, the shape of the drifts can be retained by simply mowing around them.
Due to theunsightliness ofripening foliage after blooming, some gardeners prefer lessnoticeablesitesontheperimeteroftheir propertywherethegrasscanbelefttogrow long before mowing. Alternatively, consider earlier-flowering bulbs or later-developing grasses.
Roadside embankments also make good sites for naturalizing bulbs in grass. Such banks exhibit good drainage and sunny exposures for ripening bulb foliage. A planting pattern following the contours of the landlooksmorenatural. Trumpetdaffodils are particularly effective as their nodding flowers are spectacular when viewed from below. Dugald Cameron, owner of Gardenimport, recommends combining them withdaylilies (Hemerocallis species) as theripeningdaffodil foliagewillbemasked by the emerging day lilies.
Techniques used for planting bulbs in grass will depend on the size of the area, coarseness of the grass, existing soil and drainage conditions. Smallareas with loose soils lend themselves to individual bulb planting with a trowel orbulb planter. Simply remove a soil plug, insert the bulb, firm the soil around the bulb and replace the grass plug.
Planting larger areas is labor-intensive work. Accordingly, wouldsuggestrenting a sod cutter toremovethesod, and plantthe bulbs with a bulb planter. Or, remove the soil to planting depth with a sharp spade, insertthebulbsandreplacethesoilandsod. Plantingwillgomuchquickeriftwopeople workasateam,onetodigtheholeswhilethe
other plants. Water well to help firm the bulbs in place.
Ifthesoilisheavyandofpoorquality,use theopportunity toimprove thesoiland turf beforeplantingthebulbs. Arototillercanbe usedtocultivateto20to25cmdepthandthe soil improved by adding well-rotted manureandcompostfollowedby5-10-15fertilizeratarateof.9kgper10squaremetres or replacethesoilwithanewonecomprisedof 6parts loam,4parts coarsesand and2parts compost or leaf mold. After planting the bulbs, the area can be seeded or sodded.
Top quality, strong bulbs are needed for grassareasforagoodshowofbulbsthenext year. Onceestablished,bulbsnaturalizedin grass require only modest fertilizer and water. A slow-release 5-10-10 or 5-10-20 fertilizer canbe applied as a top dressing or worked into the soil at the time ofplanting. Fertilizer application too soon after flowering may stimulate foliage at the expense of the required ripening and resting period. Most bulbs also favor drier conditions during their resting period so extra watering is not a requirement.
Narcissusseedheadsshouldberemoved to produce stronger bulbs and allow the grass to be cut earlier. Smaller bulbs like chionodoxa, scilla and eranthis species spread rapidly by seed and should be left alone.
Larger bulbs, like the trumpet daffodils, will benefit by bulb division every four to five years as crowding depletes the soil of nutrientsandwater.Unearththesebulbssix to eight weeks after flowering, shake clean of soil and tease the bulb offsets apart and replant immediately. Smaller bulbs can be left undivided indefinitely as they are less consumptive of soil nutrients and water.
Naturalizingbulbs is fascinating and rewarding for Canadian gardeners. I hope you'vebeenencouragedtotryit.Believeme, you won't be disappointed.
Reviewed by Gail Chang, Alma Ireland and Barbara Stevenson
By Diane Benson, $23.95
Simply titled Dirt, with itstexturized cover ofburlap and string, thisbook is a uniquely stylish guide to creating a garden. As Ms Benson puts it, An Armani garden is classic, permanent,disguisesthingsbestkepthiddenandisagoodinvestment. Fullofhumour, enthusiasm and practicalknowledge that onlyanurbanite can convey, thisbookmakes a wonderful gift for anyone contemplating starting a garden. And for those of us who havealready started, hereis a book full ofcolourful quirks and hardy opinions from an unusually unrestrained perspective. You'll dig Dirt!
By Susan Hight Rountree, $30
With Williamsburg, Virginia s colonial capital as its setting, this charming book will appeal to all who love to make merry the Christmas season with imaginative decorations. The beautiful photographs, colour drawings and excellent text with ideas and instructions, combine to inspire the reader to trim doors, windows, mantels, stairways anyspaceavailable! Wreaths,swags,kissingballs,plaquesandtreeornamentsarejust a few of the suggested creations. Helpful hints on the use of fresh and dried plant materials, ideas for holiday entertaining, formal and informal table decorations along withseveraltastyandunusualrecipes (some 18thcentury) areincluded. Asagift,orfor your own book shelf, celebrate Christmas with this delightful book.
By Susan Hight Rountree, $30
Thisbook is fullofideas forentertaining and decorating thatlast the year round. There are recipes for old favorites such as apple butter, pumpkin cake with bourbon pecan frosting,pumpkinsoupandcranberrycheesecake. Allkindsoflovelywreaths,topiaries and swags are shownalong with simple directions. You will enjoy using thisbook and it makes a fine gift for friends.
Look for the winter course
December 15 is the deadline for the brochure in the next issue February issue of Trellis. Fax or of Trellis. mail your letters and articles to the editor at the Centre.
Trellis,
A book review by Civic Garden Centre member Brian Bixley
Reviewed:
THE VERNACULAR GARDEN, edited byJohnDixonHuntandJoachim WolschkeBulmahn (Dumbarton Oaks Colloquium on the History ofLandscape Architecture, X1V), Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington D.C., 1990.
Everyone who is interested in garden historyisimmenselyindebtedtotheHistoryof LandscapeArchitectureseriesfromDumbarton Oaks. The range of titles runs from AncientRoman Villa Gardens throughChina and Gardens ofEurope ofthe Eighteenth Century,fromTheIslamicGardentoBeatrixJones Farrand; Fifty Years of American Landscape Architecture. A volume thatshould be central is Garden History; Issues, Approaches, Methods,butgardenhistoriansseemtopay little attention to their ownwise methodological counsels.
One ofthe peculiarities ofthe historyof thegardenasart-formhasbeenitsconcentrationonthegardensoftherich,asthough only the rich made gardens, or made gardens sufficiently important to be studied. Wealth is not a sufficient condition for the making of an important or great garden; most rich people, especially if they have had to earn their financial ascent, have beentoobusytoacquirethesensibilityand the culture to be aesthetically creative. But a reading of the garden literature leads to the inescapable impression that a great garden cannot be made without wealth. Wealth is a necessary condition, because the accepted notion of greatness in gardens implies expensive space, expensive structure,expensivecareand maintenance. Even garden writers, as distinct from gar-
den historians, can be pulled into making thesameidentification.CountryLife sTony Venison is quoted as saying (Hortus, No. 30) that with contemporary gardens generally much smaller than those of the past...outstanding gardens are becoming harder to find. Is it not odd that size and, afortiori, thewealth that owns it, should be an essential condition for the creation of outstanding gardens ?
If you remain sceptical of this connection, pick up any of the Great Gardens books,and countthenumberofDukesand DuchessesandComtes(withtheoccasional fashionable and wealthy novelist or parfumeur or dress designer thrown in).
Note how many of them have head-gardeners,leavingustoimaginethecrowdsof underlings. Vita Sackville-West complained about the poverty of managing withfivegardeners.Perhapsshewasenvying Ellen Willmott with her hundred and five. Then count the number ofcarpenters, building inspectors, schoolteachers, storekeepers, poets, painters and candle-stick makerswhosegardensareincluded.Great gardens, it hasbeen said, aremulched with money. The causality runs in the reverse direction;themulchmakesa great garden possible. IlanHamiltonFinlayhassardonically observed: the murmur of innumerablebillswasknowntomostgreatgardenS
No other fine art is so appropriated by the wealthy. Painters and sculptors may still depend upon the patronage of the affluent, but what they create does not depend on their being wealthy. The filmmaker, the novelist, themusician (whether poporclassical)dependforreputationand
incomeuponawiderpublic.Youmayneed to raise money to make a movie, but you can write a poem in a pub, a concerto in a cottage. Poverty is no obstacle to any form of artistic accomplishment, except in the making of gardens (and, if architecture is counted as one of the fine arts, in the making of buildings; see below). If you buy a garden which is what the wealthy typically have done and do the garden is yourachievement,yourgarden.Ifyoubuy a Picasso, you own it, but the painting is always that of the painter. Just occasionally, the real maker ofgardens a Brown, a Repton, a Jekyll, a Page, a Jellicoe is commemorated, but they made gardens only for the rich, personal and corporate.
The garden historians have assumed that the history of the garden corresponds almost linearly with the history of the wealthy. Occasionally,peopleofrelatively modest means but of genteel pedigree the Ladies of Llangollen are noted for their eccentricity. More usefully, Douglas Chambers has valiantly sought, in his recent The Planters of the English Landscape Garden, for information about the makers andmaintainersofEnglisheighteenth-century gardens, but, once more, it was the gardens of the rich that were being made and maintained.
To understand why this has happened would requiresome kind of (Lord forbid!) sociology ofgardens. In TheMost Beautiful House in the World, Witold Rybczynski pointsto Boorstin sLawofHistoricalSurvival , that the historical record is all too frequentlynotonlyincompletebutskewed; not exactly survival of the fittest but survivaloftherichest oftheimmovable,the valuable, the durable, the collected and protected, and the academically classified (myitalics).WhatRybczynskiwritesabout art-history and the history ofarchitecture,
surely holds for the history of gardens: Whatthebuildings thatareillustrated in art-historybooks shareis notuniformly trained creators but uniformly prominent patrons. It was the rich and famous who built the largest, the most expensive, the most impressive, and the most durable structures.Anditwasthesestructures...that were taken care of and eventually protected and restored. And these were the buildings that came to be studied, documented and classified. Scholars usually belonged or aspired to belong to the rulingclass,andnaturallypreferredtoconcern themselves with dignified and noble buildings...There was more than a little snobbism in this attitude, and it is hardly surprising that the recorded history of architecture became the history of a small group of selected buildings, an exclusive architectural winner s circle... What finally distinguishes themembersofthewinner s circlefromtheuncouthmobof mere buildings is not their architectural quality but their social standing, the sanction of the criticandthearthistorian, andtheeffectof Boorstin sLaw...notanyintrinsicattribute.
Or, as Terry Eagleton adds more brutally, It was notjust a questionofEnglish (garden) studies constructing a past after its own image...it was also a matter of its obediently reproducing the self-image of a minority social group. If economists are the apologists for the bourgeoisie, garden historians are the acolytes of the affluent and the socially prominent.
To be a gardener, and to read garden history, is frequently an irksomebusiness. Garden historians, especially those who write about eighteenth-century gardens, not only typically know very little about horticulture the cultivation of plants and their employment to create aestheticallysatisfyingcanvases buttakea kind
ofprideinthatdeficiency.Quiteafewlocal gardeners will remember the Gardening in Wide Landskip conference at the University of Toronto where the keynote speakertold theregistrants,withapparent self-congratulation, that he had recently read a book about gardening for the first time.ThebookwasEleanorPerenyi sGreen Thoughts, and a good book it is, but not a book from which you could learn very muchpracticalgardening. Butthat sa real inside joke in garden history circles; the less you know about gardening, the easier it is to hypothesize that changes in garden stylesareessentiallyrootedinliteraryphenomena, and that the styles can be discussed without an intimate knowledge of the appearance and culture of the plants employed in their formation. It enables historians to write about conifers as though a spruce and a pine (let alone their specificforms) havethesameimpactinthe landscape, or as if the chiaroscuro effects so eagerlysoughtthroughtheemploymentof deciduous trees are not dependent on the genus.
Thenotionofthevernacularhasalready made its way into architectural discussion withreferencetopopular,traditional,nonacademic techniques and forms of building...Vernacular originally implied pre-industrial, folkloric creations (more Rybczynski, this time in the New York Review of Books, July 14, 1994, where he was reviewinga newbookbyJohn Brinkerhoff Jackson who is also a contributor to the book being reviewed here. Jackson is the author of an earlier book, Discovering the Vernacular Landscape).
The vernacular garden, we are told by Hunt and Wolschke-Bulmahn, is likely to be small scale, not monumental...be massproduced,productsofthegardencenteror of new technology like the lawn
mower...where maintenance and management were privileged over making, and whereaestheticswasnevera primaryconcern... In the case of private suburban gardens...ideasarecannibalizedfrom...Walt Disney, girlie magazines, and other popular fictions . Vernacular gardens do not form part of the canonical texts (i.e., the great gardens); they do not come into being as the result of the powerful interventiononasiteofsomewealthypatronor ofsome name designer. In an extraordinarily revealing passage revelatory of both ignorance and pretension the editors suggestthatananalogytoatleastone partofourdeliberations on thevernacular garden is the study ofastrologybyhistorians of science or of quackery by medical historians.
The objective of examining the making ofgardensbythenon-richisworthy,though there is a condescension in the language whichmayeasilydeterthespiritedreader. John DixonHunt writes, in Gardens and the Picturesque, that my interests in gardens began within literary studies, so that we arescarcelysurprisedwhenhewriteswith a sense of discovery that flowers, shrubs, and trees flourish differently in different places and a garden s plant materials may perhapsdeclareitsconnectionwithalocality. Even if we leave out the clumsy (but indicative a plant is a plant is a plant) plant materials , he might still be jeered fromthepodiumatthemonthlymeetingof the Flin Flon Horticultural Society. When heandW-Bcomment,inallgravity,that it seems to be equally a characteristic of certainvernaculargardening,suchastheGerman Kleingarten phenomenon, that unknown and exotic plants are cultivated in order to overcome the restricted range of localvegetation , itisdifficultnottolaugh out loud. Kleingarten, for the vernacks
amongstus,simplymeans smallgarden , but it comes accompaniedby a ponderous footnote: Rudolf Borchardt describes impressively in his book DerLeidenschaftliche Gdrtner ("The Passionate Gardener ) that it is a characteristic of gardening people of different cultures a.:d epochs to cultivate exactly those plants they wanted to have andnot,onthecontrary,thosewhichfeelat home in that particular climate. It is not easytobeassuredthatthestudyofgardens madebyordinarypeopleisingoodhands.
In addition to the introduction, there are six essays of varying quality, interest andaccessibilitydevotedtoFrenchmarket gardenersaroundAmiensinthemid-nineteenthcentury;navalgardensineighteenthcentury England; the gardens of AfricanAmericans; the garden ornaments in a Frenchminingcommunity( Retardedcontrast is the carrying over of one of the characteristics of an element onto the
neighboring element at their mutual boundaries ); a brief but absorbing essay by J.B. Jackson which ends with the fine declaration that at a time like the present whenwearebeingbulliedintoworshiping the wilderness, we need to remember our heritageasgardeners,andwhatthegarden stands for in our domestic civilization ; andafascinatingstudyoftherolesofSouthern Living and Sunset in defining the collectivetastesoftworegionalcultureswhich, more and more, are looking for the same kind ofsources fortheir ideas and inspiration. Not a great collection, but given its provenance, better than might have been expected. It is, perhaps, unfair to tar the essaycontributorswiththeeditorialbrush. Still, there is a lingering unease. I have neverbeensympathetic to thosewhoworried about appropriation of voice until now.
Brian Bixley Mulmur, August, 1994
3,4,5,6
* Mistletoe Magic - Toronto s Christmas sale: Thursday and Friday: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission: $5.
8
* North Toronto Horticultural Society, Christmas party, 7:30 p.m.
e Fantabulous indoor/outdoor floors, course #4144-1
9
* Ikenobo Ikebana, Japanese flower course, #4115
* Elegant touches for special occasions, course # 4132-2
10
® Unusual indoor houseplants, course #4179 11
* Designs for candelabra, course #4114-2 12
e Toronto Potters, show and sale, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
® Orchid judging centre, 1:00 p.m. 13
e Toronto Potters, show and sale, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
* Ontario Rock Garden Society, meeting, 1:30 p.m. Speaker: Bob Bartolomei, New York. Topic: Alpines in the Big Apple. 14
e Artful jardinieres, course #4114-2
¢ Toronto Bonsai Society, meeting, 7:00 p-m.
* Southern Ontario Orchid Society, newcomers meeting, 7:30 p.m.
15
e Toronto Cactus and Succulent Club, meeting, 7:30 p.m.
17
¢ AWilliamsburgChristmas,demonstration ofChristmas decorations, 1:00 to 4:30 p-m. Members $25, non-members $35.
¢ Williamsburg workshop, 7:00 to 9:30 p-m. Members $80, non-members $90
19
¢ [kebana International, show, 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Admission: $5.
20
* York Rose and Garden Society, meeting, 2:00 p.m.
¢ Geranium and Pelargonium Society, annual general meeting, 2:00 p.m.
21
* MycologicalSociety, meeting, 7:00 p.m.
22
* Well urned lamp, course # 4144-3
* An Edwards Garden Evening Speaker: Janet Rosenberg Topic: Colour, form and texture in the creation of outdoor spaces 730 pm.
Members: no charge, non-members $4
24
e Viney random-weave basket, course #4141-3
27
* Rhododendron Society, meeeting, 1:00 p.m.
28
¢ Beauteous boxes, course #4144-4
It's time to look ahead to the 1994/95 season. If you are interested in joining an active, caring, fun-loving group of adult or children s Tour Guides, contact Helen Craig at (416) 397-1356 for further information.
TheCivicGardenCentre warmlywelcomes new members. Joinus,and meetfriendswho sharean interest in gardening, floral arts and horticulture.
Activities:
The Civic Garden Centre offers:
* workshops, classes and clinics flower shows lectures
The Trellis Shop (garden supplies, plants, gifts and books) e Trellis newsletter garden tours horticultural library soil testing service gardening hotline Master Gardeners' activities plant sales fund-raising activities
Member discounts apply on many of these activities.
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ThetalentsandenthusiasmofCivicGardenCentrevolunteerspermitofferingavarietyofprograms and special events. Ifyou are able to offer time on a regular or as-needed basis, please contact our volunteerco-ordinator.Volunteerjobsincludetourguides,shopsales,libraryassistants,secretarial, reception, horticulturalassistant, committeememberoravolunteerposition tailored to meetyour particular skills or interest.
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