FOOD words by EMILY & STEWART LANE | photos by ANNA PETROW
PLATE
Rising From the Ashes. Emily Lane: If you’re searching for an Italian restaurant in Kansas City, there are dozens of options, each with its own story. Enter the new Plate restaurant, on 63rd and Holmes in the Brookside neighborhood, where owner Christian Joseph rebuilt his dream modern Italian restaurant, literally from ashes. (The original location of Plate caught fire two years ago and was completely destroyed.) On a fleetingly warm autumn day, we stopped in for drinks on the patio followed by dinner, and we learned from Joseph, himself, why Plate was something he just couldn’t quit. Stewart Lane: By beginning our evening on the newly opened patio, we had a sort of progressive dinner, which added to the novelty of the night. Emily started with sparkling rosé, and I asked our server for a drink recommendation. He directed me to the LBL, a refreshing and balanced cocktail of lemon balm, lavender, mint, simple syrup, and gin. Herbal and refreshing, it was a perfect accompaniment as we dove into the housemade burrata with beet-top pesto, sweet and sticky grappa-soaked figs, spiced honey, and seared hazelnuts. We also snacked on the charcuterie plate, featuring locally cured meats, house-made jams, spiced fruits, and exceptional cheeses. The execution of both of these dishes shows the clear thought that was put into not only the flavor profile of the entire plate but the textures and design of each dish. EL: While enjoying our drinks and starters, we had the chance to talk with Christian Joseph and learn a bit more about the story of Plate, which could have been a love story. Joseph still seems heartsick and a bit incredulous when he shares about the fire that devastated the old restaurant location. But with a sigh and a grin, he stated he knew despite the hardship of the loss, he had to try again. So after selecting a new location in a mixeduse building, he worked alongside the architects and designers to ensure the space was exactly his concept. From the furniture to the flatware, this is Joseph’s vision come to life. The space itself is very contemporary, with a separate bar area that feels almost “clubby” – this isn’t the Italian restaurant with red-checked tablecloths and drippy candles – and that’s a good thing for the menu that Executive Chef Brian Mehl has created. SL: The menu showcased powerful ingredients and unique flavor profiles, not to mention quirky names, for most all menu items. The “Italian
20 | TODAY KANSAS CITY | Winter 2019
ESPRESSO RUBBED DUCK BREAST, butter bean chow chow, turnip greens, watermelon radish, spiced honey, blood orange oil
