FOOD

PLATE Rising From the Ashes.

Emily Lane: If you’re searching for an Italian restaurant in Kansas City, there are dozens of options, each with its own story. Enter the new Plate restaurant, on 63rd and Holmes in the Brookside neighborhood, where owner Christian Joseph rebuilt his dream modern Italian restaurant, literally from ashes. (The original location of Plate caught fire two years ago and was completely destroyed.) On a fleetingly warm autumn day, we stopped in for drinks on the patio followed by dinner, and we learned from Joseph, himself, why Plate was something he just couldn’t quit.

Stewart Lane: By beginning our evening on the newly opened patio, we had a sort of progressive dinner, which added to the novelty of the night. Emily started with sparkling rosé, and I asked our server for a drink recommendation. He directed me to the LBL, a refreshing and balanced cocktail of lemon balm, lavender, mint, simple syrup, and gin. Herbal and refreshing, it was a perfect accompaniment as we dove into the housemade burrata with beet-top pesto, sweet and sticky grappa-soaked figs, spiced honey, and seared hazelnuts. We also snacked on the charcuterie plate, featuring locally cured meats, house-made jams, spiced fruits, and exceptional cheeses. The execution of both of these dishes shows the clear thought that was put into not only the flavor profile of the entire plate but the textures and design of each dish.

EL: While enjoying our drinks and starters, we had the chance to talk with Christian Joseph and learn a bit more about the story of Plate, which could have been a love story. Joseph still seems heartsick and a bit incredulous when he shares about the fire that devastated the old restaurant location. But with a sigh and a grin, he stated he knew despite the hardship of the loss, he had to try again. So after selecting a new location in a mixeduse building, he worked alongside the architects and designers to ensure the space was exactly his concept. From the furniture to the flatware, this is Joseph’s vision come to life. The space itself is very contemporary, with a separate bar area that feels almost “clubby” – this isn’t the Italian restaurant with red-checked tablecloths and drippy candles – and that’s a good thing for the menu that Executive Chef Brian Mehl has created.

SL: The menu showcased powerful ingredients and unique flavor profiles, not to mention quirky names, for most all menu items. The “Italian ESPRESSO RUBBED DUCK BREAST, butter bean chow chow, turnip greens, watermelon radish, spiced honey, blood orange oil

MILK CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY MOUSSE, dark chocolate mousse, raspberry ganache, luxardo glaze, chocolate soil

Moderno” salad featured delicate greens that somehow still had a snap to them, salty bresaola, charred-leek goat cheese, pine nuts, dried cherries rehydrated in amaretto, and an espresso-balsamic vinaigrette. The charred-leek and goat cheese together added a smoky element to the tang of the cheese that was perfectly balanced against the cherries and bresaola.

Then the pasta – I always ruminate over how chefs will take flour and water and turn them into something unique. Plate has achieved this with inventive infused pasta flavors and pairings that create a new dining experience for the pasta aficionados. "The Bone & The Hare” features cappellacci pasta, or large hats as they say in the home country, stuffed with braised rabbit and surrounded by a rich bone-marrow brodo with oyster

mushrooms, shaved truffle, a bright carrot-top pesto, and a touch of smoked olive oil. The pasta is tender with a slight chew, the rabbit is bold and deeply backed by the umami of mushroom and truffle oil, and the fresh bite of the carrot-top pesto adds a much-needed acidity. A much more classic dish is the “Paparadelle Incredibile,” featuring fresh oregano pasta and a simmered pork shoulder ragout. It’s a simple idea, but it combines layers of complex flavors and a balance of textures.

For entrées we tried the espressorubbed duck breast, showcasing an understated coffee flavor that is balanced with the richness of the superbly cooked duck breast. Supple, yet hearty, butter bean chow-chow and turnip greens accented with fresh watermelon radish and spiced honey balance the rich and succulent duck. Emily enjoyed the grilled Scottish-salmon filet, playfully named “Up a Creek,” which was paired with preserved shaved fennel, olive gremolata, and red-pepper pistou. Plate plays with dark, complex flavors and elevating acidic and earthy tones.

EL: By this time, the lights had dimmed in the restaurant, and I was thinking about sweets. We rounded out the night with a stunning dessert, the “Cioccolato,” which was kind of like eating a piece of performance art. You get to crack open a chocolate sphere to reveal a rich chocolate mousse and raspberry ganache. We also sampled the gelato trio, fighting over who got the last bites of the strawberry basil PLATE CHARCUTERIE BOARD featuring local and regional meats, cheese, pickled vegetables, mostarda, crostini

variation. We left as others were entering to sit at the bar, just starting their evening, and I suspect this is just what Joseph hoped for with his vision of the new Plate – a place that you can come anytime to instantly feel more chic and be well fed.

Plate is located at 701 E. 63rd St. in Kansas City, and is open for dinner Monday through Thursday beginning at 4:00 p.m. and for lunch and dinner Friday through Sunday beginning at 11:00 a.m., platekc.com.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Emily and Stewart Lane are natives to Kansas City. Stewart is the Executive Chef of Inspired Occasions catering, and Emily does freelance marketing and communications for arts organizations in the KC metro. Along with their one-year-old daughter, Evie, they live a life filled with food and culture.