April - June 2023
A historical landmark with a history of being ignored - Page 6
The Mummies of Lake Mutanda - Page 16
Stunning and rewarding Mt. Kilimanjaro trekking experience - Page 44
Exploring the Unique Flavours of Rwanda: Brochette & Birayi - Page 10
From the Jungle to the city: The Ever-Relevant Meal, Belila (Anyoyo) - Page 32
Ecotourism investments in protected areas cause uproar as Zanzibar moves on - Page 12
Kinshasa’s battle with plastic waste - Page 42
Tanzania struggles to protect its game reserves as invaders destruct forests - Page 50
The dying and emerging trends of all genres in Africa and around the world - Page 28
Burundi’s Mama Dimanche - Page 20
The battle general of Butare and Rajagiri - Page 26
Lycie, the lady men trust with their heads - Page 34
The unexploited tourism blue economy of Uganda - Page 48
The impact of climate change on the Eastern Africa region - Page 36
Thank you for grabbing yourself a copy of Travel News East Africa Magazine. Having taken a ‘a covid era’ break, there were incessant cries from our readers and partners for a hardcopy of the magazine hence the evolution you are holding in your hands.
In this edition, we take you on great journeys and memories across the now expanded East African Community of seven countries.
We have great compelling stories ranging from South Sudan about Anyoyo, belila or githeri as it is known in different parts of East Africa. This delicacy qualifies to be a regional staple food.
From Kenya emerges a story of a heritage site that does not get the recognition, publicity and attention it deserves. We also visit South Western Uganda, Kisoro, which is home to some islands that were a preferred final resting place for Abahinza rulers.
In Rwanda we explore the unique flavours with a special focus on brochette and birayi, this delicacy makes many salivate.
When were you last on the road? We take you on a road trip from Kampala to Bujumbura via Tanzania.
Zanzibar is giving a deaf ear to the uproar from conservation bodies, choosing to forge forward with eco-tourism investments.
Read on, there is a lot more in this copy.
Travel News East Africa Magazine is published on a quarterly basis and covers topics of; Hospitality, Conservation, Destinations, Maritime, Climate Change, Aviation, Tales, Arts and People/ Communities. We also aim to provide infotainment, lifestyle and an in-depth analysis of business opportunities across the region.
We offer a cocktail of timeless stories to our global audiences from Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Burundi, South Sudan and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Now that you are here, we look forward to having further interactions with you on our social media platforms, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, our website and the YouTube channel.
We wish you a pleasant reading experience!
PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTORS
Fred Oluoch, Kevin Oak, Mike Mande, Job Namanya, Moses Havyarimana, Gilbert Mwijuke, Andrew Busingye, Richard Sultan, Toko Oola, Kelly Rwamapera, Aggrey Nshekanabo and Andrew Kazibwe
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Ruth Njoki, Peace Ashimwe, Sauda Kimolo, Ruhinda Tumaini Lucia Geaorge, Moreen Tumwebaze, Karungi Deborah, Akello Annegrate, Clare Barinyenka, Akurut Agnes Okurut, Nyembwe Kabenda Benisson and Liesse Delicia Irakoze.
Kenya, which competes to claim the origin of mankind with Ethiopia and South Africa, is now facing marketing challenges with its unique 600-year cultural landscape in the western region of the country.
Although it is a significant historical landmark in East Africa, Thimlich Ohinga, an archaeological site in Migori County about 180 km southwest of Kisumu City, is hardly known outside of the immediate area.
Thimlich Ohinga, which means a “frightening, dense forest” in the local Dholuo language, is only similar to Great Zimbabwe, a stone structure from which the Southern African country draws its name.
It can also be compared with the walled cities of the Middle East in Jordan, Iran and Saudi Arabia, and the Surame Cultural Landscape in northern Nigeria.
Despite having been built without mortar, the expansive structure, on a 52-acre piece
of land, is still standing, except for a few sections that have been destroyed by weather, human and animal activities. The dry stone-wall structure was gazetted as a national monument in 1981.
The 600-year-old historical landmark that was inscribed in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage List in 2018 needs marketing, easy access, and essential amenities for visitors.
Built in the 14th century, Thimlich Ohinga is one of the few examples of the early defensive savannah architecture that became a traditional style across East Africa. Although the site has been identified by Signature Destinations as one of the mustvisit destinations in the Western Kenya Circuit, the site still needs good roads, water, electricity, and accommodation facilities.
Thimlich Ohinga has the potential of being one of the leading tourist attractions on the western circuit. Its strategic location is a perfect stopover for those on their way to or from the nearby Ruma National Game Park, Gogo Falls, or the Macalder gold mines.
After five years of listing, the site is struggling to meet the threshold of Unesco sites as both the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), which is the custodian, and the county government struggle to fix the needed facilities.
Daudi Okoth, the former Migori County Director of Trade, Tourism and Corporative, said that the county had tendered and designed the Visitor Resource Centre with the capacity to hold 150 people, with washrooms and a cafeteria.
A lot of tourists using small aircraft land in Migori on their way to Maasai Mara and Serengeti, but Thimlich has not benefited because of poor infrastructure.
However, being an international facility, it has to abide by Unesco standards which require an Archeological Survey and Environmental Impact Assessment.
Archeological Survey is a must to ensure that the construction of hotels and other amenities does not block the archeological deposits that are still underground, given that this is a very rich archeological region. A cultural site or landscape that is found on
the World Heritage List has been recognized for its exceptional, all-encompassing value to humanity. Once a site is listed, it no longer belongs to the country that is hosting it; instead, it becomes a global property that can receive funding from donors like Unesco. Through programmses in education and conservation, publicity, and international assistance, Kenya should benefit financially as well as technically.
Thimlich was necessary in the 14th Century for defence purposes at a time when East Africa was receiving a huge number of immigrants from the north and southern Africa.
It has a large enclosure with one-metre-thick walls to act as a defence against hostile communities or wild animals. Archaeological records show that Thimlich had two phases of occupation.
As a village complex with a symbol of leadership, it became the centre from which territorial conquests into neighbouring areas were conducted. It also developed as an administrative centre where leadership consultations and labour organisations were carried out.
The 600-year-old historical landmark that was inscribed in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) World Heritage ListA scientist recording data at the site
Thimlich Ohinga is an outstanding example of local architecture characterised by a three-phase dry stone laying technology that is not known to exist anywhere else in the region. The complex is composed of four main enclosures; Kochieng, Kakuku, Koketch and Kolouch. Most of them have been downgraded by nature except thimlich main complex.
The walls consist of meticulously arranged stones of irregular shapes and sizes. They were constructed in three phases that ran concurrently where the outer and inner phases of the walls were joined together using a middle third phase consisting of smaller stones that pressed down the ends of the outer and inner stones.
Due to the lack of distinct shapes in the stones used, the walls do not exhibit any course line, as is common in modern stone walls. The walls range in height from 1.2m to 4.2m. They were built without mortar and have many complementing features that have made them survive for several centuries.
The stones were simply put together using an interlocking system that enhanced stability. The average thickness of the walls is approximately one metre, increasing at the entrances to about 2m to 3m. This was a stability technique used to create maximum strength at the gates.
The walls had no foundation but this was mitigated by the use of buttresses for protection of the enclosures from strong winds as well as the effects of slope, humans, and animals. Furthermore, purposely selected elongated slabs were used at the gates as lintels to support the weight of the stones above the entrance.
The structures include gates 1metre wide and 1.5 metre high, which was a defensive and technological innovation. One had to stoop when entering the gates and there were watch towers adjacent to the gates.
Thimlich is the only historical landmark in Kenya with regional significance in terms of migration. There were migrants from Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda, that passed through Thimlich.
Between the 15th and 19th centuries, communities that settled in this area repaired and altered the walls but left the buildings and the preservation of the structures.
According to the former director of the British Institute of Eastern Africa, Prof Paul Lane, who assisted the excavation team, it was necessary to build such large enclosures with walls one metre thick to act as a defence against hostile communities or wild animals.
He added that leaders at the time competed to build the largest enclosures, and the walls served as a symbol of authority designating the fort as a hub of political power and wealth.
The stones show that the structure required a lot of labour and years to complete. Therefore, either the communities had a strong food-producing economy to support the labor force, or the political system could compel people to work together on a project where it was widely agreed that such enclosures were required, according to Prof Lane.
Rwanda is known for its rich cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and its unique cuisine. Among the popular dishes in Rwanda are brochette and birayi, which are beloved by locals and visitors alike. Brochette is a dish made up of skewered meat, while birayi is roasted potatoes. These dishes are a common sight in most restaurants, street food stands, and barbecues across the country. But did you know that the origins of brochette and birayi can be traced back to the colonial era?
During the Belgian colonial rule, meat was a luxury that was only available to the wealthy. However, the local population had access to offcuts and scraps of meat that they used to make brochettes. This dish quickly became a popular street food, and it was not long before the Belgians themselves developed a taste for it. Over time, the dish has evolved to include different types of meat, and is now a staple in Rwandan cuisine. Similarly, birayi has its roots in the traditional way of cooking potatoes in the country, which involved roasting them in ash.
Let’s explore the uniqueness of brochette and birayi, including the preparation and consumption of the dishes and also look at some of the popular accompaniments for these dishes that complement them. Let’s dive in!
Brochette is skewered meat that is grilled over an open flame. The meat can include beef, goat, chicken, or even fish. It is marinated in a flavorful blend of spices and herbs before being cooked, giving it a rich and complex flavor.
Birayi, on the other hand, is a unique preparation of potatoes that is often served alongside brochette. The potatoes are boiled and then roasted in a skillet until they are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. They are often seasoned with a blend of herbs and spices, such as garlic, ginger and turmeric, which give them a distinctive flavor.
Together, brochette and birayi make for a delicious and satisfying meal that is perfect for any occasion. The combination of savory grilled meat and crispy potatoes is truly a match made in culinary heaven.
Accompaniments: Taking Brochette and Birayi to the Next Level
While brochette and birayi are delicious on
Brochette and Birayi Recipe:
Ingredients:
- 1 kg of beef or goat meat, cut into bite-size pieces
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 cloves of garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 potatoes, peeled and cubed
- Skewers
For the Birayi:
- 2-3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
- Salt to taste
- 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
- 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric powder
Instructions:
In a large bowl, mix the meat with the chopped onions, minced garlic, vegetable oil, salt, and pepper. Let it marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator.
their own, they are even better when paired with a variety of different accompaniments. One of the most popular accompaniments is isombe, a dish made with cassava leaves that are cooked in a flavorful blend of spices and herbs. The dish has a slightly bitter flavor that pairs perfectly with the rich, savory flavors of brochette and birayi.
Salad is also a common accompaniment and is often made with a variety of fresh and colorful vegetables, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and carrots. The salad is usually dressed with a vinaigrette made with local ingredients such as lemon, ginger, and honey, which adds a sweet and tangy flavor that pairs well with the savory flavors of the brochette and birayi.
Another popular dish that usually accompanies brochette is roasted or grilled plantains (locally referred to as mizuzu). The dish has a slightly sweet and savory flavor that pairs well with the bold flavors of brochette.
Now that we have explored the unique and delicious food of Rwanda, it’s time to try it out for yourself! Here’s a simple recipe for making brochette and birayi at home:
Preheat your grill or oven to 400°F.
Thread the meat onto the skewers, alternating with the cubed potatoes Place the skewers on the grill or in the oven and cook for 10-12 minutes, turning them occasionally, until the meat is cooked through and the potatoes are tender.
While the brochettes are cooking, make the birayi. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes, salt, and turmeric powder, and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and lightly browned.
Serve the brochettes and birayi with a side of isombe, salad, or other traditional Rwandan accompaniments.
Enjoy the delicious flavors of Rwanda right in your own home!
The Island of Zanzibar is moving on with its quest to invest in forest protected areas despite an uproar from world conservation bodies.
The Isles’ Government is now seeking local and international firms to construct tourism facilities in four protected areas of Unguja and Pemba despite its value and importance to the world heritage.
The four protected areas which are up for grabs are Jozani Chwaka Bay National Parks, Ngezi-Vumawimbi Nature Reserve,
Masingini Nature Reserve and KiwengwaPongwe Forest Reserves.
Zanzibar government says infrastructure that will be permitted in those areas should be light, eco-friendly structures that can be easily dismantled with little footprints in the forest reserve which should be installed in open space and without significant cutting of vegetation.
It said that the investors should also observe the 30 metres limit of building on the sand beach and the 10 metres limit from the
rocky shore.
Simai Said, Minister for Tourism and Heritage of Zanzibar says that in Zanzibar, forest protected areas are attractive to tourists as well as investors and are one of the important investment hotspots as they create and maintain a balanced approach between ecotourism and conservation.
“Ecotourism facilities on protected areas must be conducted with an understanding of how the areas function as an ecosystem, and how a facility will conserve the cultural heritage values, benefit traditional owners and the community; improve tourism experience, and be integrated into the park’s forest resource management. Investment into Ecotourism, will assist in developing facilities and improving experiences in protected areas,” said Simai.
According to Simai, the investments in the forest protected areas will contribute much to improving the livelihood of the Zanzibar communities, conserve biodiversity and increase the country’s income at large. Nevertheless, to work with investors in harmony, it is justifiable to have clear guidelines on different investments initiatives especially in biologically sensitive areas such as Forest Protected Areas.
The Island of Zanzibar has of recent encouraged investors to establish
investments in different areas including in the forest protected areas to support the Country’s Blue Economy Policy. It is also continuing with its initiatives of installing CCTV across the tourism sites in the Island. The Isles are currently a major tourist hub for Italian, Ukraine and Russian tourists. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN)says the 1994 protocol recognises that protected areas must be managed through legal or other effective means.
“Protected areas represent special places in the world that are managed for conservation purposes. They are, of course, important because of the critical role they play in biodiversity conservation. This role is recognised by most countries including the 177 Parties to the Convention for Biological Diversity (CBD). Article 8 obliges Parties to establish a system of protected areas to conserve biodiversity, but also to develop guidelines for the management of such areas and promote appropriate development adjacent to protected areas. Commitments such as these assist in the conservation of global biodiversity by making clearer the responsibilities of governments for protected area systems.’ it said.
In its statement to the Travel News East Africa, the IUCN said that protected areas ensure the continued flow of ecosystem services, such as the provision of clean water and the protection of soil resources. They provide significant economic benefits to surrounding communities and contribute to spiritual, mental, and physical wellbeing.
It said that protected areas also help fulfill an ethical responsibility to respect nature and provide opportunities to learn about nature and the environment.
The Isles government promises to take appropriate measures to ensure that as the facilities are built; there shall not be significant change to the land’s natural condition or adverse effect on cultural resources and values.
Zanzibar is endowed with 10 forest protected areas including National Parks, Nature Conservation Areas, Forest Reserves, mangrove and a good network of community forest protected areas.
Throughout man’s history all cultures have different ways in which they handle their departed and their final resting places (tombs). Those who leave this world to the next are considered to have been separated from us in body but remaining with us in spirit. In African traditional society it was considered that our departed forefathers lived among us and that our lives may be affected by the way we relate to them.
It is in this respect that, in the past the Abahinza, the rulers of the pre-aristocratic era in Rwanda were not buried with commoners in communal cemeteries but in selected caves on chosen islands. Lake Mutanda, lava dammed lake found in south western Uganda, Kisoro district is
home to some of the Islands which were used for such a purpose.
According to tradition, there are many islands on Lake Mutanda, each used for a given purpose in the culture and religious customs and traditions that fore-fathers ordained them to be.
Louis Bishubeho, a local politician and tour guide in the area took us on a trip to one of the Islands where history lies. Bishubeho told us that he is a descendant of the Abahinza, and that he knows a lot about the history of this place.
“This was the burial ground of the Bahinza, my ancestors who were the rulers of the Great lakes region and Northern Rwanda. I do not feel ashamed to associate with the place because it holds my ancestors,” said Bishubeho.
Out of curiosity, we asked Bishubeho how he got hold of this history that can
only be told by him in the current era. He told us that his late Grandfather shared all the details with him and then issued a number of directives prior to his death.
“My grandfather Bishubeho, who died at 128 years of age told me about this secret and asked me to share it with other members of our lineage. The aim of our discussion was to come up with strategies of how to pay respect to our ancestors resting in this place,” added Bishubeho. He further told us that despite the historical attachment they have to the area, there is a great spiritual connection they enjoy while visiting the site.
“We usually come here to pay respect to our ancestors and we believe that when we are here, we get blessings. You do not have to enter the cave, you only stand out and ask the ancestors to bless your plans and they are realized,” Bishubeho added.
At this place, we noticed that Bishubeho was barefooted and upon asking him why he visited this area in this form, he explained that since they consider the place sacred, it would be bad for him to step on his ancestors with shoes.
With the continued destruction around the site, Bishubeho called on the government to join efforts to preserve this place.
“Some of the remains that were here have been exhumed by the various people for their own selfish interests. Some tour operators exhumed these bones and displayed them here deceiving their clients that this was a punishment island yet we know the actual story behind these Islands. We are shocked to note that some of the remains here are taken away by witchdoctors,” he said.
Tourism department speaks out Richard Munezero, the Tourism Officer for Kisoro district said that his department has already taken note of the unique tourism product on this lake.
“We visited the site upon hearing the
story of mummification and realized that it was true since we found some of the bones attached to the skins. As a district, we avowed that this could be a unique product and we have already started the process of gazetting it as a tourism site. We have already put up a sign post to direct tourists to the area,” said Munezero, adding that together with the Uganda Tourism Board and the Ministry of Tourism, they have already started the process of modifying the area and upgrading it to better standards.
“We are now in the process of getting archeologists who will document the actual story around this site with detailed professional information and analysis then we shall market this site with an improved approach,” he added.
Archeologist picks interest Ruth Tibesasa, a field archaeologist whose research interests are late Stone Age and early farming communities of Eastern Africa and PhD in Archaeology holder from the University of Pretoria has already picked interest in this site.
Tibesasa, a lecturer at Kabale University said that she has already developed a concept note that will see her profile the site in a professional manner.
“I will be working to determine the number of years some of these remains have spent on the site and the time when the people buried here could have lived. I will also be interested in bringing forward a strategy that will see communities sharing an informed story on the importance of conserving this site,” said Tibesasa.
She hopes to start her archeological journey in this place early next year.
Mummies may not literally rise from their ancient tombs and attack, but they’re quite real and have a fascinating history.Some of the remains believed to be of ancient Bahinza on display at Lake Mutanda (Photo by Job Namanya)
A mummy is a person or animal whose body has been dried or otherwise preserved after death. When people think of a mummy, they often envision the early Hollywood-era versions of human forms wrapped in layers upon layers of bandages, arms outstretched as they slowly shuffle forward. Mummies may not literally rise from their ancient tombs and attack, but they’re quite real and have a fascinating history.
The practice of preserving a body as a mummy is widespread across the globe and throughout time. Many civilizations—Incan, Australian aboriginal, Aztec, African, ancient European and others—have practiced some type of mummification for thousands of years to honor and preserve the bodies of the dead.
Mummification rituals varied by culture, and it is thought that some cultures
mummified all their citizens. Others reserved the rite of passage for the wealthy or people of status. Since most bacteria cannot thrive in extreme temperatures, exposing a corpse to the sun, fire or freezing temperatures was an uncomplicated way to create a mummy. Some mummies happened by accident. Take, for instance, the Accidental Mummies of Guanajuato, a collection of over 100 mummies found buried in above-ground crypts in Mexico. Those bodies were not mummified on purpose. It is thought either extreme heat or the area’s rich geological stores of sulfur and other minerals spurred the mummification process.
Some Buddhist monks practiced selfmummification by spending years starving their bodies and only eating foods that promoted decay. Once their body fat was gone, they spent a few more years drinking a poisonous sap to cause vomiting to get rid of bodily fluids. The poison also made the body an unsavory future host for corpse-eating bugs.
When the time was right, the monks were buried alive to await death and mummification. Death came quickly, but self-mummification seldom worked.
No matter how a body was mummified, the end game was the preservation of as much skin tissue as possible—and the priests of ancient Egypt are considered the experts on the process. Egypt’s arid climate made it easy to dry out and mummify a corpse, but the Egyptians routinely used a more elaborate process to ensure the dead experienced safe passage to the afterlife.
The mummification process for royalty and the wealthy often included: washing the body, removing all organs except the heart and placing them in jars and packing the body and organs in salt to remove moisture. Embalming the body with resins and essential oils such as myrrh, cassia, juniper oil and cedar oil was also part of the process. The process further included wrapping the embalmed corpse in several layers of linen.
Christine Ntahe is a veteran journalist who worked for the Burundi state broadcaster for 30 years and now considered to be one of the gold hearted women Burundi has ever had. At 74 years, she feeds more than 200 orphans and street children every Sunday lunch time.
Christine Ntahe aka Mama Dimanche which literary means Mama Sunday, she was named Mama Dimanche by the street children who often came for lunch at her home every Sunday.
“The meal of sharing every Sunday I consider it as my way to thank God that am alive, people go to church every Sunday but I decided to feed children so that they can at least forget about the rotten food or left overs they go for in the streets,” said Ms. Ntahe.
Born in 1949 in Bujumbura province Ms. Ntahe lost her father at a very early age (13), since the death of her father she lived in the most difficult conditions as she narrates, she says that as the result of living in a poor life
she couldn’t complete her studies. Due to the hard and challenging life she went through after losing her father, it gave her an experience on how life is like for the street kids and those living without their parents.
It was in 1969 when she was at 20 years of age when Ms. Ntahe joined the Burundi National Radio (RTNB), after ten years at the state broadcaster she initiated children’s program on the radio “Tuganirizibibondo” (talk with children) where children could voice their concerns and stories that surrounded them and the life they lived in during that period.
Ms. Ntahe a mother of four children became a widow in 1992 after spending 21 years in marriage.
As she spent 20 years producing kid’s program on the national radio, she knew the challenges and difficulties Burundi children faced and it was until 1994 when she started feeding orphans and street children every Sunday when the country experienced a brutal civil war between the Hutu and the Tutsi ethnic groups that claimed thousands of lives.
“Children need love with no exception from those living on the streets… they need to feel like other people and if not taken good care of they can be easily manipulated or tempted to commit crimes,” said Ms. Ntahe.
Her journalism career at the state broadcaster came to an end in 1999, she says that she was naturally attached to orphans and street kids who needed support.
She said as most of Christians go to church on Sundays, for her she dedicated the day to feed children at her home and interact with while giving them life advices.
Ms.Ntahe believes that God provides her with what she can feed these children every Sunday, she says in most cases good Samaritans bring her food or clothes to help the children in need. Christine Ntahe won awards both on national and international level, she was selected among the 1000 peace women across the globe. In 2022 Christine Ntahe was handed to head the country’s Red Cross.
Not only she provides them with meal, but she has taken a few back to school.
My first trip from Kampala to Bujumbura was fun-filled. It was back in 2007 when I was much younger, more energetic and fun-loving. I travelled using private means, with a fun group of friends and colleagues.
Travelling through Rwanda, the entire journey took us less than 18 hours to make it to the former Burundian capital city.
So, when I recently decided to take another road trip to Bujumbura, but this time via Tanzania, I was ill-prepared for the 27-hour odyssey that awaited me.
On a self-driving trip, the journey from Kampala to Bujumbura via Kigali (722 kilometers) takes about 11 hours while the Tanzanian route (788 kilometers) is about 14 hours — other factors remaining constant.
My journey began from Namayiba Bus Park in Kampala just a few minutes before midnight. We would be in Bujumbura by 6 pm the following evening, management of Sunlait Friends bus, my means of transport on this journey, had assured me earlier.
At 05hrs we made it to Mutukula, the Uganda-Tanzania border post where clearance at Immigration set us back about two hours. Mutukula is located approximately 211 kilometers southwest of Uganda’s capital Kampala.
As we re-boarded the bus after getting the green light from Immigration, I took notice of my neighbour for the first time, a young man who togged out in a damaged pair of jeans, a muscle-hugging white t-shirt, and a cowboy hat and with a guitar at the ready. I think he thought he was Carlos Santana. Another stop at Nsunga, a trading centre deep inside Tanzania, increased our journey time by yet another 40 or so minutes. But our time here didn’t entirely go to waste; we used it to buy some snacks, munch on them, and generally answer nature’s call.
Tanzania is such a vast and sparsely inhabited country — so much that you can drive up to 100 kilometres in the middle of nowhere, without encountering a passing vehicle, without seeing any signs of human activity anywhere.
It’s like driving through an Italian village during fiesta. Nothing stirred. The sun beat down. It was all quiet. But Carlos Santana made sure that that wasn’t the case inside the bus: when he wasn’t talking nonstop at the top of his voice, he would either be playing some lousy music on his cheap Techno smartphone or strumming some uncoordinated patterns on his guitar. He was a true source of unwarranted noise that I felt like kicking him out of the bus.
And with nothing scenic (almost only acacia trees prevail in the western plains of Tanzania), the journey was even made worse by the intermittently rickety, unpaved roads that compelled our driver to drive at a snail’s pace, further increasing our travel time.
At around 14hrs we arrived at Kobero, the one-stop Tanzania-Burundi border post, and I thought we would actually make it to Bujumbura by 18hrs like I had been promised before we left Kampala. But that was not to be the case for some reasons I couldn’t fathom.
Somehow, it took us up to five hours to clear with Immigration and Customs yet this is one of the least busy border posts in the region. “Burundians just don’t have respect for time,” someone told me.
We left the border after 19hrs to begin on the final 236 kilometers, 6-hour stretch to Bujumbura City (the snaking roads in
this hilly part of Burundi means you can’t drive fast), a journey that was maddeningly disrupted by the several (I counted up to seven) unwarranted roadblocks.
What were the police at the roadblocks looking for? “This is East Africa, they just need something ‘kidogo’ (Swahili for small),” offered Carlos Santana.
When we arrived in Bujumbura shortly after 02hrs, I was warned not to venture outside the bus park lest I got arrested or mugged. With all the tiredness and backlog of sleep, it quickly dawned on me that I was going to spend the remaining hours of the cold night on the immobile bus.
As the coldness intensified with the progressing night, I wondered why I was doing all this just in the name of adventure. What was I up to? Is this normal bahaviour for someone deep in his thirties?
I thought about my friends and former friends, many of them married with children and “sensible jobs”. I wondered if I should also begin to behave with a little sophistication, if I should be acting my age.
But when I saw the first rays of the sun a few hours later, I decided that I should mind my business, picked myself up, and went out to book myself a hotel room. After a much-needed relaxation, I caught up with an old friend with whom I took a walk to one of Bujumbura’s quaint beaches for a drink and a bit of camaraderie.
As we looked over the calm waters of the mighty Lake Tanganyika, drinks in hand and a cool breeze engulfing us, it was such a good feeling to be back here after 12 years, albeit in retrospect. Surely, this place had caught me.
What were the police at the roadblocks looking for?
“This is East Africa, they just need something ‘kidogo’ (Swahili for small),” offered Carlos Santana.
For a straight line distance of 5,249 kilometers apart, across the Equator, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean, a small army embarked on a life conquering battle between two continents. In conventional military service the decorated generals are usually battle-hardened hard core exemplified humans who rise through the ranks with a gruesome, intense training. From the legendary African warriors of Shaka Zulu in Southern Africa, Mau Mau in Kenya, Ethiopians’ resistance against colonial rule. Legends, heroines and heroes have risen such as Dedan Kimathi , Nelson Mandela, Thomas Sankara, Martin Luther etc even when some never fired gun triggered bullets.
Heroes and heroines are not only battlefield names but also humanity (Ubuntu) enshrined in culture, morals and history books with relish and grandeur for generations to emulate. Most legends’ next of kin are probably still basking in glory shadows and privileges to-date.
Are you wondering why or whether am lamenting or praising heroes and heroines?
I am actually doing none of the above. However, I am trying to put on record a generational hero of modern times who has no military background nor experience. This human being hails from a small township of Butare (rock in English) in South Western Uganda, slightly below the Equator
“...what’s amazing is how they can give more than they get!”
line, Southern hemisphere of East Africa region on the African continent.
This Butare village is best known for its tea growing activities, it is an ordinary folks township on the highway linking the famous Bunyaruguru crater lakes to the Queen Elizabeth National park via Kazinga channel close to Uganda - Democratic Republic of Congo border. The civilian-hero-general is Kansiime Caleb.
Is there such a thing as a civilian general? Yes, there is. Dictionary by Merriam-Webster defines a civilian general as a person not on active duty in the armed services.
This Bushenyi - Butare legend Kansiime Caleb, in his late thirties gave up a vital organ of his body to save another soul. Precisely a kidney. Caleb is Married to a young queen Esther, both blessed by three children Shaun , Shaughan and Crystal. The couple live an average life of hustlers’ proportions but what’s amazing is how they can give more than they get!
Back to the hero general, Caleb, this dark skinned light hearted man donated his kidney
to Justus without any coercion, monetary gain or promise. The recipient, had a few months to live, apparently because of longstanding illness originating from blood sugar problems.
What’s more remarkable is the donor Caleb and his family even participated in a fundraising campaign for funds to support medical care in India to Justus for five months.
Caleb, Justus and his wife Doreen travelled to Rajagiri Hospital in Kochi, Kerala , India May 2022 and returned November 2022 after a successful kidney transplant. In a community WhatsApp group formed by friends, workmates and wellwishers to contribute support for medical care, the donor and recipient kept morale high by sharing updates of what transpired and religious notes of hope with faith.
General Caleb is deserving of the highest possible reward, rank and medal there is in this world, so going forward I move a humanitarian motion to have this “hero civilian general of Butare and Rajagiri” given a well-deserved chance to inspire more troops into such causes of selfless service to humanity.
As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, the cultures and traditions of various regions are no longer isolated. Through the internet and social media, we are exposed to different cultures and artistic expressions from all over the world. As much as technology is a good tool to preserve and uphold these cultures, it has also been a catalyst to their demise. What are the old and new trends? What are the dying and emerging trends? How can we preserve the dying arts and ensure they grow alongside or serve as an inspiration to the emerging ones? These are just some of the numerous pertinent questions that we seek to explore.
Traditional Dance Forms
Traditional dance forms have been a significant part of African culture for centuries. However, with the influence of Western culture and globalisation, the younger generation is increasingly moving away from traditional dance forms. This trend has led to the loss of cultural identity and heritage, as the knowledge of these traditional dances is not being passed on to future generations.
For instance, the Masai dance, a traditional dance of the Masai people in Kenya, is dying out due to the younger generation’s lack of interest in it. The dance is a unique form of expression and a significant part of the Masai culture. To preserve this dying art, it is essential to create awareness and educate the younger generation on the importance of traditional dance forms. By promoting traditional dance forms through various cultural events, music festivals, and dance competitions, younger generations can learn to appreciate their cultural heritage and keep these forms of art alive.
Traditional crafts such as basket weaving, pottery, and beadwork are also dying out in many African communities. The younger generation is more interested in modern crafts and technologies, which has led to a decline in the demand for traditional crafts. This trend has also led to the loss of cultural heritage, as many traditional crafts are unique to specific communities and are not being passed on to future generations.
The Igbo people of Nigeria have a unique art form called “Uli”. Uli is a form of body painting and wall art, and it is a vital aspect of Igbo culture. However, the younger generation is not interested in this art form, and it is gradually dying out. To preserve Uli and other traditional crafts, it is essential to promote and celebrate these art forms through cultural festivals, exhibitions and workshops. By doing this, the younger generation can learn to appreciate these art forms and keep them alive.
Traditional music is another aspect of African culture that is slowly dying out. Western music has gained popularity in Africa, and many young people prefer it to traditional music. This trend has led to the loss of cultural identity and heritage, as traditional music is an essential part of African culture and history.
Take a look at the Kalangu drum; a traditional percussion instrument used by the Hausa people of Nigeria. However, the younger generation is not interested in this instrument, and it is gradually dying out. To preserve this dying art, it is essential to promote traditional music through cultural events, music festivals, and music education in schools. By doing this, the younger generation can learn to appreciate traditional music and keep it alive.
Digital art is an emerging trend in the global arts and culture scene. With the advancements in technology, artists can create digital art pieces that are innovative and unique. Digital art is gaining popularity among younger generations, and it is becoming an important aspect of modern art.
Laolu Senbanjo is a Nigerian digital artist who uses digital technology to create stunning art pieces. His art has gained international recognition and he has collaborated with top brands such as Nike and Beyonce. By embracing digital art, African artists can create innovative works and reach a wider audience. This trend also provides an opportunity for traditional artists to adapt their art forms to the digital world.
Fusion music is a popular trend in the global music scene. This genre combines different styles of music to create a unique sound that appeals to a diverse audience. Fusion music is gaining popularity in Africa, and it provides an opportunity for African musicians to showcase their talent to the world.
The South African band, Freshlyground, is known for their fusion of different styles of music, including African folk, pop, and jazz. The band has gained international recognition and has collaborated with top musicians such as Shakira. By embracing fusion music, African musicians can create a unique sound that reflects their culture and appeals to a global audience.
Street art is an emerging trend in the global art scene. This genre involves creating art in public spaces such as streets, buildings, and walls. Street art is gaining popularity in Africa, and it provides an opportunity for artists to express themselves in public spaces.
For example, Nkosikhona Ngcobo, a South African artist, is known for his street art, which is inspired by the social and political issues in South Africa. By creating art in public spaces, artists can raise awareness of social issues and express their creativity to a wider audience.
To preserve dying arts and promote emerging trends, it is essential to create awareness and educate the younger generation about the importance of arts and culture. This can be achieved through various initiatives, such as:
Cultural festivals provide a platform for artists to showcase their talent and promote their art forms. These festivals can also be used to educate the younger generation about the importance of arts and culture and promote traditional art forms. Most schools in Kenya held music festival competitions where a diverse representation of traditional forms of music and dances were performed by the pupils. This was a great way to preserve the culture in the young people.
Art workshops and training provide an opportunity for younger generations to learn about traditional art forms and develop their skills in modern art forms. By providing training and mentorship, we can preserve traditional art forms and promote
emerging trends.
Government Support
The government can provide support to artists by funding cultural events, creating art centers, and promoting the arts in schools. By doing this, we can preserve dying arts and promote emerging trends.
Arts and culture play an essential role in preserving our heritage and identity. However, with the influence of Western culture and globalization, many traditional art forms are dying out. To preserve these dying arts and promote emerging trends, it is essential to create awareness, educate the younger generation and provide support to artists. By doing this, we can ensure that our heritage and identity are preserved for future generations.
It’s 10hrs in the morning local time. Five middle-aged boys are taking a nap in the tranquil shed of a mango tree next to the Anyama river, precisely a kilometer to the West of Nimule Immigration and Customs office at the land port of South Sudan to neighboring Uganda.
The sound of an approaching lorry jolted them back to life, they lazily walked towards the river except for one named Opio Santo.
These boys are sand harvesters at the bank of the river.
“Harvesting sand from the river and loading it onto the construction trucks is our source of livelihood”, said Opio.
When asked why his friends walk like they were being forced or do not love their work, he forced a cheeky laugh from his bed of tree leaves.
“My friends are not lazy, but it’s Anyoyo (gravel) making them dizzy. We have just had a late breakfast, like an hour ago, and that is why we were resting as it digests.” He said before clarifying that gravel is their ironic reference to Anyoyo which is a mixture of boiled maize and beans.
“When fried or pasted with groundnut butter, it becomes hard and heavy like gravel”, he smiles while rubbing his tummy to drive his point home.
He continued that Anyoyo is not only a meal for frugal people but a meal that all hardworking manual laborers in the town take.
Commonly known as Belila in the local Arabic among most South Sudanese, Anyoyo, Odo among the Madi tribe and some Bari speaking tribes of Central Equatoria State. A layman’s explanation can be the mixture of boiled beans and maize plus salt added into it; however, there are
the battlefield versions of sorghum.
Achiro Rose is a woman in her forties and has widely traveled across South Sudan. Her latest in line of military husbands is a soldier in the Tiger Division of the South Sudan People Defence Forces (SSPDF) stationed in Loa, a village on the Nimule- Juba Highway where she runs a local restaurant serving other local meals alongside Belila. She explains that there is no place in this country where you can’t find people who do not know about Belila.
“If you move to all the ten states of South Sudan, you will find several spots where Belila is sold. The clientele is not just broke people like it used to be. There are well-off people who have fallen in love with it”, she explains. An explanation that pleases two tired-looking soldiers who force a weary smile while enjoying their Belila.
According to Rose, when people get to experiment with Anyoyo further, they will start treating it like a daily cup of tea.
At Juba’s second biggest grocery market in Jebel, the importance & relevance of Anyoyo is laid bare. Tea stalls in between the grocery shops are crowded with people from different walks of life at around 10:00am local time; outnumbering the number of stalls for the once popular Ugandan ‘Rolex.’ Professionals, Boda Boda riders, and students. Travelers and members of the
organized security forces also impatiently wait to have a plate of Belila before they get back to their daily errands.
Deng Mike is a disabled veteran of the liberation war.
He is among the people crowded in one of the stalls.
He says for a broke and incapacitated person like him, the most important thing was to have a daily budget for a plate of Anyoyo.
A plateful used to cost only two hundred South Sudanese Pounds ($0.25 USD) but now one has to part with half a dollar to get full, according to Deng.
“I never got involved in any active service since I got wounded in 1994 but my love affair with the Anyoyo delicacy started before that. In the bush days, we called it Belila, and it was our only known and relevant staple food. After independence in 2011, the returnees from Uganda came and corrupted the name to what they heard in exile.” He said as he acknowledged his love affair with Anyoyo.
Much as the name has been corrupted by the returnees from Belila to Anyoyo, they brought some innovativeness and creativity to the way it’s prepared .
“They fry or paste it with groundnut butter making it tastier and even more delicious. Unlike our liberation version which was either maize, beans, water and salt or sorghum just boiled”, he stressed as he gestures to the waitress to express his impatience.
According to Justin Swaka, a bus driver who plies the Custom -Gudele route in Juba, Anyoyo is an East African delicacy. He however wonders which country can truly claim ownership of its origin. It is called Githeri in Kenya. A Kenyan commonly referred to as “Githeri Man” became an internet sensation in 2018 and got rewards of presidential medals for queuing to vote in a Presidential Election while eating Anyoyo.
“I think Belila is the only thing most South Sudanese do not practice tribalism in. To move forward as a country, we need more similar and uniting things like Belila to rally around, not always war. Today as things stand, you can’t talk about South Sudan without mentioning the word war.” Swaka concluded.
Much as the name has been corrupted by the returnees from Belila to Anyoyo, they brought some innovativeness and creativity to the way it's prepared.
Much as women have in recent years taken a bolder step and disputed the old stereotypical norms of limiting themselves to a few professions in favor of the male gender, Lycie Umuhire, alias Umukobwa Wogosha or Lycie the Barber stands out for her venturing into the space of being a Barber, a profession that was never practiced by females in Rwanda.
It is mid-morning, on a Wednesday in the heart of Kigali business center, where people right from the streets to the offices are at their hustle as usual. I make my way to Kigali Clipper Zone, a Saloon which is located at Labonne Adresse building, for our scheduled appointment with Lycie the Baber, a young lady I had shortly before the meeting, discovered via her Instagram page. Making my way into the saloon’s interior, I
had to be so keen to recognize Umuhire’s workstation, because of the close similarity to the rest of the Barbers who are entirely men. She is dressed up in simple buggy jeans, long-sleeved casual shirts, which she compliments with a cap.
Ushering relatively huge numbers of clients, this is a busy saloon with over 30 staff of which 25 are male Barbers, while the rest are females that mainly perform other roles like head washing and massaging, alongside mopping and sweeping. Umuhire stands out as the only female Barber. At the time of my arrival, she is busy attending to a male client. This further clears my doubt, since seeing is believing.
Born 23 years ago, she is the eldest and only girl in a family of three. With no history of the Barber or Hairstyling profession in
her family, she admits it’s strange and that besides that drawing is an Art she has long practiced and admired.
“The fact that I too haven’t personally met a woman practicing what I do in Rwanda motivates me deeper into doing it,” she states.
“I wanted to explore something I could enjoy doing while earning from it, and this is what I admired,” she states.
Having accomplished her Advanced level Education in 2019, where she majored in Mathematics, Computer, and Economics, at Ecole St. Bernadette in Kamonyi District.
As the world battled the COVID-19 pandemic, amidst the on-and-off lockdowns, Umuhire was embarking on learning and mastering the art of cutting hair, “I did search for jobs, even from friends and family members who had promised to connect me but I was not lucky,” she states. Her initial attempt into the career, which was just a passion wasn’t easy since being a Barber was a profession known to only men, so she practiced it discreetly.
Umuhire recalls how it was through practicing from her two brothers’ hair-cuts
that she gradually mastered how to do it, “I had sought to be trained how to do Haircuts, but the few I had contacted needed a pay for it, yet I had no money,” she states, “with my brothers I could only pay the saloon a half of what they were to pay or the service, then I could personally work on them,” she adds.
She further took on online tutorials on YouTube. Her passion was boosted by one lady, a Barber in Florida, US, who she learned of through social media.
She still renders 2021 as the year she was still learning both the skill and the approach to society. She faced rejection too, “It hurts when you work on a client then they don’t pay you, or when they frown at you on the realization of a fault, but I stayed calm at it all since I was still learning,” she states.
The moment she still cherishes to this day was when she offered a haircut to her father, “He didn’t know of the skill, but when my mother told him about it, he accepted,” she states happily, “To me, that was an endorsement for life,” she adds.
“She came with something unique,” remarks Innocent Safari, who is the Saloon’s Manager, “It is her skills and work ethic that led her here, and we are proud of the image reflected so far upon us,” he adds.
“Her passion beat all doubts around, to the extent that she now attracts more clients than I do,” remarks Adams a longtime friend and workmate.
Currently in her second year pursuing a Bachelor’s Degree in Law at the Kigali Independent University (UIK), Umuhire is glad that those who initially doubted her practice are her most devoted clients today.
“I would love to set up the first ever allFemale Barber saloon which will train and employ professional Barbers,” she remarks, with a smile.
“I wanted to explore something I could enjoy doing while earning from it, and this is what I admired,”
Fred Oluoch
The issue of climate change due to human activities associated with the emission of greenhouse gases is one of the major issues that is causing displacement, food insecurity, conflict, and migration.
The Eastern African region and The Horn of Africa are facing the most severe drought ever experienced in the last 40 years, as the region is staring at failed or below average rainfall for five consecutive seasons, courtesy of climate change.
Reports from various humanitarian organizations and the United Nations indicate that about 36 million people in Kenya, Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Somalia, will be facing high levels of food insecurity in the first quarter of 2023.
Climate change refers to long-term shifts in temperatures and weather patterns due to natural and human activities such as the burning of fossil fuels like coal, oil, and gas, which produce heat-trapping gases. The greenhouse gas emissions—mainly perpetrated by industrialized countries— have been blamed for the rampant drought situation in parts of The Horn.
Carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide, hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), and ozone in the lower atmosphere are the main greenhouse gases whose concentrations are rising.
Dry wetlands are being significantly impacted by climate change, which is leading to more flooding and ice melting. The Karamoja region of Uganda, which borders the Turkana region of Kenya and the Sudan corridor, serves as one illustration of this phenomenon.
While the impact of climate change differs from country to country, in The Horn, the effect is more or less the same in Kenya, Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Somalia—drought and conflict.
According to the Executive Secretary of the Inter-Governmental Authority on Development (Igad), Dr. Workneh Gebeyehu, the situation is dire as the region is facing prospects that rains will fail or be inadequate for a fourth consecutive season.
Climate change has had a direct impact on pastoralist communities in the Horn
of Africa, as the perennial drought has reduced livestock population in the last year.
Already, 15.5 to 16 million people are in need of immediate food assistance, due to the drought. This is 6.5 million in Ethiopia, 3.5 million in Kenya, and 6 million in Somalia. In the southern-central part of Somalia, the situation is catastrophic, with 81,000 people at risk of famine.
For instance, the International Organization for Migration (IOM), has announced that 1.5 million migrants from the Horn of Africa are risking their lives migrating from Ethiopia, Somalia, and Djibouti through Yemen and other Gulf countries because of forced displacement caused by climate change. IOM is appealing for $84 Million to Support over 45,000 migrants who are currently stranded on the Eastern Route to the Gulf.
In Kenya, 23 counties out of the total 47 are facing severe drought and food insecurity that has promoted inter-communal conflict over water and pasture among the pastoralists.
Kenya, Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Somalia have borne the brunt of the effects of climate change given that about 60 percent of the land mass comprises arid and semi-arid lands (ASAL), home to many of the world’s pastoralists.
The alteration of precipitation patterns and the rise in the frequency and severity of extreme weather events like floods and droughts are two of climate change’s most obvious effects.
Sankat Mako, a Maasai herder at Ololosokwan Village in Kajiado County, laments that while his community depends on livestock for their livelihood, their future is now threatened by the effect of climate change.
“Without grazing land, where is our future, and what will become of our children? 75 percent of our pasture land is gone. We are facing economic suicide because we depend on livestock and yet our grazing lands have disappeared,” said Mr Mako, alluding to the combination of the effects of climate change and greedy well-paced land grabbers who have interfered with livestock and wildlife migration corridors.
According to Igad Center for Pastoral Areas and Livestock Development (ICPALD), the pastoral economy contributes 57 percent of the region’s Agricultural Gross Domestic Product (AGDP) and must be guarded against the effects of climate change.
These include insurance premiums, and destocking which reduces cattle mortality and enables animals to be sold in better condition, giving farmers the means to maintain more of their breeding herd and restock more rapidly after a drought.
Wetlands are drying up as a direct result of altered precipitation patterns in many regions. Wetlands function like organic sponges, soaking up extra water during floods and slowly releasing it during dry spells. However, as they dry out, they lose some of their ability to serve this purpose, which makes the floods in the nearby areas worse.
The melting of polar ice, which is causing sea levels to rise, is another effect of climate change. As a result, there is a greater risk of erosion and flooding in low-lying areas and coastal communities. Since the meltwater feeds into the rivers and streams that provide water for drinking, irrigation, and other uses, the melting of glaciers and ice caps is also having an impact on the availability of fresh water in many areas.
In the region, Sudan is one of the countries that is experiencing a significant impact from climate change, as rising temperatures and altered precipitation patterns result in dwindling water supplies and worsening food insecurity. The Sudanese government has acknowledged the need to address these issues and has been collaborating with global institutions like the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) to create adaptation plans for the effects of climate change.
The UNDP has been collaborating with the governments of Sudan and Uganda to deal with the effects of climate change by encouraging the development of crops that can withstand drought and methods for harvesting water, as well as sustainable land management techniques.
The Nile River and its tributaries serve as major water sources for the inhabitants of the region, and the Nile Basin Initiative (NBI) is one of the projects that unites 11 countries in the region—Burundi, DRC, Egypt, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Sudan, Tanzania, and Uganda—in an attempt to mitigate the effects climate change.
The NBI works to address the impacts of climate change on the Nile River and its tributaries, which are major sources of water for the region’s inhabitants. However, there is an ongoing dispute between the countries in the Nile Basin over the use and management of the river’s water resources Egypt, for instance, has had a long dispute with Ethiopia over the Grand Ethiopian Renaissance Dam (GERD) an estimated 6,000 MW hydropower project on the Blue Nile in Ethiopia, which Cairo believes will further reduce the flow of waters to Egypt in the face of severe impact of climate change.
Climate change is expected to have a significant impact on the water resources
of the Nile Basin. Changes in precipitation and temperature patterns are likely to have an impact on the availability of water for domestic, industrial, and agricultural use. The Nile serves as the main source of water for the nations in the basin, including Egypt, Sudan, and Ethiopia.
One of the main issues is that altered precipitation patterns might result in less water being available in the Nile Basin. The amount of water evaporating from the Nile River and its tributaries is anticipated to rise as the world’s temperature rises, which could result in lower water levels and decreased river flow.
Just like the pastoralists, the impact of climate change on farming communities in eastern Africa has been substantial and far-reaching. Eastern Africa is one of the
15.5 to 16 million people are in need of immediate food assistance
For instance, the conditions brought on by climate change were a major factor in the desert locust outbreak in 2020, which impacted several countries in the region.
The UNDP has been working with communities and governments in the region to increase their resilience to climate change effects like droughts, sea level rise, and extreme weather. The UNDP also assists nations in incorporating climate change into their development strategies and plans.
The biggest threat brought about by climate change is the increased conflict among pastoral communities leading to insecurity due to the proliferation of arms and light weapons. In Kenya for instance conflict-prone Suguta-Kapedo belt on the border of Turkana, Baringo, and Samburu counties, have been bearing the brunt of climate change.
Women have been left to fend for entire families as men wander far and wide with their depleted herds even as death stalks them in the rugged terrains. Keya Emoi Loboko from Kapedo in Turkana County says she prays every day for her husband’s safe return from the grazing fields in the deadly Suguta valley.
“We have few men remaining in our village because they are out grazing the few animals they have, in groups,” she said.
Women in the Turkana village of Ng’ilukia are afraid to fetch water from a salty source about a kilometer away because of the insecurity in the three regions.
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Amegalopolis in the heart of Africa, Kinshasa is the capital city of the Democratic Republic of Congo with an estimated population of 15 million people. It’s reknown for its rich music history and fashion-conscious locals. Bars and nightclubs are always teeming with Congolese revellers out to have a good time - they call it “Tosepela na biso” which means let’s enjoy ourselves in the Lingala language. Authorities in this sprawling city are facing a huge problem of keeping drainage channels and waterways clean because of the poor waste disposal practices among the residents.
According to the Kinshasa Sewage and Public Works Authority, there are at least 7,000 tons of waste including 1,500 tons of plastic produced daily in the city. In 2019,
the Governor of Kinshasa, Gentiny Ngobila launched a programme known as KinBopeto which translates to Keep Kinshasa Clean. City officials put new garbage bins across the city centre and carried out outreach programmes to educate the residents about the dangers of living in a filthy environment. But Kinshasa is no ordinary city when it comes to heeding the call of politicians. Many people have developed a rebellious attitude towards politicians because of the corruption that a number of them have been involved in for decades. And so, the citizens choose to continue dumping trash in drainage channels despite the threat it has on their lives. A taxi driver in the city once remarked, “If they want us to change our mentality and start keeping the city clean, let them stop stealing tax payers’ money.”
In December 2022, a heavy downpour caused floods and triggered landslides that killed at least 169 people in Kinshasa. More than 30,000 people were affected by that calamity. It was described as the worst flooding disaster in the country’s history. The DRC President Felix Tshisekedi attributed it to Climate Change but city authorities blamed Kinshasa residents for blocking the drainage channels by dumping their waste irresponsibly. It’s barely two months since the tragic event but the poor waste disposal practices of “Kinois” as the residents of this city are known hasn’t changed for the better.
Kinshasa is grappling with the challenge of a rapidly growing population that hasn’t been met with adequate infrastructure. Most of the country’s drainage system was built by the Belgians during the colonial period. Some modifications have been made by authorities in recent years but it hasn’t matched the rise in the population. A new initiative of recycling plastics has been introduced to try and solve this daunting problem. A plant that recycles 50 tons of plastic waste per day has been launched by a company called OK Plast at the Limete suburb of Kinshasa. The 15 million Euro Project is a partnership between the company and the Congolese government aimed at managing plastic waste. The collection of plastics is also a source of employment for many young people. But city authorities still have a lot of work to do to sort out the waste disposal problems. Widespread unemployment and poverty have given rise to the construction of a multitude of makeshift houses on the outskirts of the city without any garbage disposal sites. According to some residents, that has been facilitated by corrupt officials who get bribes and approve construction projects in unauthorized areas. Many ordinary Congolese who are fed up with the system often say...”Mboka ekufi pona lokoso ya mbongo.” The country is dead because of the love for money!
A holistic approach of tackling poor governance, corruption and urban planning will go a long way in taking this city from being known as “Kin poubelle” (Kinshasa trash) to Kin La belle (The Beautiful Kinshasa) as it was known in its glory days.
7,000 tons of waste including 1,500 tons of plastic produced daily in the city
Trekking to the highest mountain in Africa and the highest single freestanding mountain above sea level in the world, is probably the most exhausting, stunning and yet rewarding adventure one can take on with a lasting impression.
A trek to Africa’s highest point, Uhuru peak at Mount Kilimanjaro would normally start in any of the accommodation near the park. A walk through the jungle, will lead you to Kilimanjaro National Park gate where registration of all hikers takes place.
For most visiting groups and individuals, lunch would be had at Machame village and thereafter the afternoon trek into the rainforest.
According to the guides, Machame is one of the longest and busiest routes to the summit.
It would have been spectacular to behold the stream-like path extending into the forest but the mist makes it fade into obscurity in just about 50 yards.
This is where footgear, gaiters and trekking poles become so important in the slippery and rugged path that makes the journey a remarkable experience.
Five hours into the rainforest, you arrive at Machame camp, seven miles from Machame Village.
Here rectangular houses with an open gable roof, European architecture, are shelters for the rangers and cleaners at Machame Camp.
You will enjoy the glorious sunset putting the horizon on fire, piercing through the trees around the camp onto the green and orange tents.
The next morning, most trekkers have their breakfast perched on rocks outside before setting off for Shira cave camp, three miles away.
The vegetation begins to fade with a few green short trees giving way to the dominance of black rocks of Kilimanjaro’s moorland zone.
The logs of old dead trees, white and hard, lie on bare rocks and there’s no evidence that the rate at which the trees die is the same rate at which new ones grow.
After five hours, you reach Shira Cave camp, where there are no trees but barren rocks all around as if it’s a different country.
Day three of the journey will see you leave Shira for Barranco Camp and arrive at a steep hill of black rock called the Lava Tower at over 15000ft (about 3 miles) above sea level.
From Lava Tower to Barranco Camp is a descent, a
disappointment that the more the descent, the farther from the summit you move.
Kilimanjaro weather and atmosphere are so unpredictable that every hour of the hike may have its look.
On the fourth day you will have breakfast at the top of the Barranco wall in full view of the Kilimanjaro peak.
You will then take the fourth hike to Karanga Camp through stream-like paths below outflanking huge pillars and walls of rocks, sometimes taking the opposite direction from the peak.
On the fifth day, you pass through rock layers with iron-like minerals as if the lava got mixed with some red soil at the time of eruption.
After tough hours of ascension, you arrive at Barafu Camp, welcomed by big pieces of broken rocks that suffered the construction of a rectangular house with an open gable roof.
Barafu is the last camp of the trek.
At 19341 feet (3.6 miles) above sea level, we stood at the highest point in Africa and one of the world’s largest volcanoes.
You take some rest before waking up around midnight to trek to Kibo the summit and Uhuru peak.
Trekking to the summit takes place at night so that one can catch the breath-taking beauty of the sunrise at Africa’s highest point.
The ground is frozen at night, more walkable than it would be during the day’s wet moisture.
A sign standing on a rusted iron bar probably pushed into a rock crack warns hikers against sliding on the ice and to be more careful.
You arrive at Uhuru Peak (the Swahili word for freedom} at around 7 O’clock after trekking for 7 hours through the night from Barafu Camp.
The temperature at Uhuru and the whole Kibo Summit is below freezing. You’re welcomed by a wooden signpost whose pyramidal pillars are fixed between huge stones since there is no way of digging a hole in the rock.
At 19341 feet (3.6 miles) above sea level, you are standing at the highest point in Africa and one of the world’s largest volcanoes.
Kilimanjaro mountain is one of several other mountains in East Africa’s Rift Valley
system that is splitting eastern Africa off the African plate from the Red Sea to Mozambique in southern Africa.
Kilimanjaro is both a dormant and extinct volcano whose three craters: Mawenzi and Shira are extinct but Kibo is dormant, having last erupted over 200 years ago.
Over 30,000 visitors climb Kilimanjaro each year.
Visitors sit at the peak and move around, taking pictures of themselves and the island in the middle of the vast sea of skies.
The clouds below are like a sea covering the earth and Kilimanjaro an Island.
Descending back to the bottom will take you two days, back to Barafu Camp and another route to Mweka Hut and Mweka Gate.
You will be proudly carrying your certificate from Kilimanjaro National Park for having made it to the summit.
By Kelly Rwamapera, Kigali Journalist & bloggerUganda gives credence to the monicker, Great Lakes Region to East African countries. It is the only place in the world where two lakes are conjoined by a canal; the 36km Kazinga Channel that joins Lakes George and Edward. The greater part of Lake Victoria, the second largest freshwater lake in the world is in Uganda. Uganda is home to the second deepest lake in the world, Lake Bunyonyi. Uganda too, is home to over 80 crater lakes, formed as a result of volcanicity. It is also home to the second longest river in the world, the river Nile.
Apart from scattered activities on Lake Victoria in Jinja and Entebbe area, there is much on the shores of the lake. What happens on Kalangala Island, one of the 80 Islands of Ssese is not even 1% of Lake Victoria’s Potential.
One would expect Cruise ships and several motorboats on Lake Victoria. Imagine a small 50-seater cruise boat plying EntebbeJinja Friday to Sunday! Where you depart Friday evening, arrive in Jinja on Saturday, tour Jinja and in the evening, jump on the
boat and head back to Entebbe. That would be two nights and three days of fun on water.
Of course, the experience of Templar boat accident is still fresh in the minds of Ugandans. It was of course not cruise worthy in the first place but to see that many Ugandans could even dare board it in its wobbly state tells you that Ugandans are desperate for such experiences.
The River Nile is still virgin in terms of tourism exploitation. Save for the few wooden boats that ply the source of the Nile, there is not much in Jinja, which is touted as Uganda’s premier tourism destination and yet, this is the source of the Nile!
At the source itself, there isn’t much and it is a painful sight. I remember the former Minister for Energy and now Chairman of Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) showing me artistic impressions of the source of the Nile, complete with a café and restaurant about 4 years ago. For the week that ended February 2023, I took local tourists to the source of the Nile.
I am thankful there hasn’t been any reported drowning at the ‘touted’ source of the Nile. It is as rickety and dangerous to dare stand at that point. I would pay 10 dollars to access the point if the former Minister had built the place as per the artistic impressions. In its present state, I have to be begged and cajoled to step out of the boat.
It is unbelievable and yet true that downstream the Nile River, there are only 2 places where one can do Bungee jumping! For long, there has only been one point in Jinja near the defunct Bujagali Falls and the most recent (less than 6 months old) is at Kalagala Falls in Kangulumira, less than 2km off Kayunga-Njeru Road and about 30 minutes-drive from Jinja town.
Of course, there is intermittent white water rafting and yet, it is touted as the best in the world. Any simple search on the web on where to do white water rafting, Jinja is among the top destinations but then again, only about 10% of it is exploited. I have sent clients there from Sweden and they are still in awe and they wonder why we are not houting enough about this wonder. And it is inexpensive compared to the prices of
similar experiences world over. There are several unexploited water falls between Jinja town and Kayunga. Apart from Busowoko Falls (which by the way became renowned because of the Nyege Nyege Festival), Kalagala Falls in its spectacular beauty is only known for African religion pilgrims!
My recent visit to Kalagala left me with a bad taste in the mouth. The guides are so ensconced in religion other than offering guided tours! In Israel, the guides are not even Christians and do not believe in the risen Jesus Christ. But they will give you a tour that you deserve.
The guides at Kalagala Falls will make the experience so scary.
Maybe we need an Israeli guide, mark the difference of Israeli from Biblical Israelite, to help these African religious site guides at Kalagala understand that they are first and foremost in the blue tourism economy and their beliefs or non-beliefs should not stand in the way of the tourists.
In short, they need polishing, and we will send travellers to Kalagala in droves. Other than exquisite pottery with the magical hands of Lwanga just at the gate of Kalagala Falls, there is so much to be done to exploit the beauty of this place.
Further downstream and through Lake Kyoga, nothing happens on the great Nile until Murchison Falls. Even here, there are not more than 5 boat cruise journeys a day to the bottom of the falls from Paraa crossing! Maybe when Isimba dam is finally completed, there may some water tourism exploits. One wonders why there is no white water rafting around Karuma Falls crossing from South to North of Uganda. After Murchison Falls, nothing significant happens on pre and Albert Nile or even on Lake Albert worth mentioning. It is a painful reality on these calm waters of the Nile.
Outside Lake Victoria and the Nile, there is a smattering of activities on lake Bunyonyi in Kabale and on the Kazinga Channel at Katunguru and Mweya Peninsula. The rest of the lakes are virgins awaiting possible suitors for a song. Mideocre
The writer is the team Leader at Naalya Motel & Kyambura Safaris Ltd.
Tanzania is struggling to protect its game reserves and protected areas as residents close to the areas increasingly invade and destruct forest reserves and biodiversity.
The armed invaders are violently attacking game wardens with guns and traditional weapons causing injuries, death and damage to properties found within the game reserves.
“Recently, there have been various incidents of the local population living near protected areas attacking our soldiers and the Wildlife and Forest Conservation Force, while they were carrying out their legal duties. These incidents have been repeated frequently in various places in the country and have often happened when the wildlife rangers are carrying out their protection duties such as seizure of cattle and arrest of poachers found inside protected areas against the law. These citizens have resorted to taking the law into their own hands,” says the Minister for Natural Resources and Tourism, Ambassador Dr. Pindi Chana.
According to Dr. Chana when rangers seize the livestock or some citizens for illegal entry into the reserves and protected areas, the invaders organise themselves and attack the army rangers or their camps with various traditional weapons such as sticks, wires, swords, arrows; causing injuries or deaths as well as damaging Government properties including motor vehicles, camp equipment and other tools necessary for conservation activities.
The Ministry is now taking measures to protect army rangers and calls on all those who take the law into their own hands by invading protected areas, injuring or killing conservation officers to stop such actions as it is against the Laws of the country.
In Tanzania, the Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism has been entrusted with managing and conserving natural resources, antiquities and tourism development and legally manages protected areas with a size of approximately 307,800 square kilometers equivalent to 32.5 percent of the country’s total area. These areas include 22 national reserves, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, 22 reserve forests, 27 isolated forests, 38 community wildlife reserves among others.
In June 2022, the government decided to start relocating citizens living close to the national parks, game reserves and protected areas, and prosecuting those found to break the wildlife Act and laws, to protect its lost biodiversity including those living in Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA.
A total of 523 households with 2,808 people and 14,757 animals have moved to Msomera Village
and other areas for protection since the exercise began in June 2022 until January 2023.
The Government says that it is taking these decisions because some people, including those living in Ngorongoro are unable to own land, build better and permanent housing and engage in developmental activities for the future of their families because it is contrary to the Conservation Law
‘The citizens living in Ngorongoro have been facing many issues especially from 2015 to 2020 with approximately 50 people being killed by aggressive and destructive wildlife while 148 were injured.” said Dr.Chana.
The people who moved to the village of Msomera in Tanga region were compensated, given decent houses built by the government as well as presented with land title deeds and the social services that they missed when they were in Ngorongoro.
The people of Ngorongoro, especially children, for a long time lacked access to a good education, the right to live without fear and the right to play due to the fear of being attacked by fierce and destructive wildlife.
Dr. Damas Ndumbaro, Minister for Constitutional Affairs said that according to the existing laws in Tanzania, no tribe owns the land of their ancestors, so the claim that the Maasai are being removed from the land of their ancestors has no basis.
“Since the beginning of the exercise to voluntarily relocate the citizens, their rights as human beings have been considered to a large extent while dignity and respect were given priority by the government,” he said.
However, some international organisations are disputing the Tanzanian Government’s move to relocate some residents from protected areas saying that the resettlement plans are critically flawed, and cause suffering to innocent citizens.
In January 2023, the Commissioner of the African Commission for Human Rights, Dr. Litha Ogana visited Tanzania to see if the
exercise carried out by the army rangers were flawed or violated human rights.
Dr. Ogana said that after visiting various game reserves, protected areas and Ngorongoro, her team found out that the whole process of moving them was collaborative.
In Tanzania, the Wildlife Conservation Act of 2009, along with other laws governing protected areas, prohibit various issues from taking place within protected areas, including citizens entering these areas without permits, carrying out social activities such as farming, feeding animals, illegal hunting of wildlife and illegal harvesting of forest products.
‘The citizens living in Ngorongoro have been facing many issues especially from 2015 to 2020 with approximately 50 people being killed by aggressive and destructive wildlife while 148 were injured.” said Dr.Chana.
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