Just east of Atlanta, and one flight from just about anywhere, Reynolds Lake Oconee has welcomed Members from around the country for nearly four decades. Whether a weekend cottage or a home for the generations, Reynolds has a special magic all its own.
For those interested in Real Estate and Membership, preferred rates in our cottages or The Ritz-Carlton ® are available. reynoldslakeoconee.com/kingdommag | 855.915.1345
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Today’s business environment doesn’t reward the reactive—it demands bold, forward-thinking leadership. Like a seasoned caddie, evaluating each shot with insight and experience, RSM stands as the trusted advisor middle market leaders rely on. We don’t just keep pace; we anticipate what’s next. With unmatched insight and clarity, we deliver the power of being understood—so you can navigate uncertainty and seize opportunity with confidence.
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EMILY POPPERT
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ALEXANDRA O’LAUGHLIN
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Photography
Mark Griffin Champion, Evan Schiller, Jacob Sjöman
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Partnerships
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Kingdom is a luxury lifestyle and golf magazine enjoyed by more than 2 million readers annually through our print publication, social channels, website, newsletters, and events. Co-founded in 2003 by Arnold Palmer, Kingdom continues the King’s legacy with original content that celebrates excellence and the modern golf lifestyle, both on and off the course.
Spanish Fun
Ihave barely had time to catch my breath after that amazing putt J.J. Spaun dropped on the final hole to clinch the U.S. Open at Oakmont Country Club, so it is hard to believe that the Open at Royal Portrush is nearly upon us!
As the U.S. Open proved once again, Oakmont is a special place, and it was very fitting that Arnold Palmer chose this storied venue for his 32nd and final U.S. Open, in 1994. A native of western Pennsylvania, Arnold made his first appearance in a U.S. Open at Oakmont in 1953, when he was still an amateur.
Since our last issue of Kingdom in the spring, I have managed to play a little golf—for a change—instead of just talking about it all day! Some of this time on the course has been in the name of a little “research” for this, our International Issue. You can read about many of the top European resorts we have visited in our feature starting on page 82, but I must single out Camiral Golf & Wellness in Girona, Spain. One of the Leading Hotels of the World and hotly tipped to host a Ryder Cup, this beautiful property—with its two great golf courses—is a must for anyone heading across the pond; it is also less than an hour from Barcelona.
Fortunately, my research will need to continue over the coming weeks as we get closer to the launch of Kingdom’s new Travel Annual, to coincide with this year’s Ryder Cup.
Speaking of which, we hope you enjoy our Ryder Cup preview in this issue, including an exclusive interview with Ludvig Åberg (page 104), who will surely be on captain Luke Donald’s European team come September.
Two weeks prior to the Ryder Cup, we will once again partner with the Hilton Head Island Visitor & Convention Bureau to host our flagship event, the Kingdom Cup, and I very much look forward to seeing some of you there. We have an amazing list of talent and partners joining us this year, and you can learn more at Kingdom.golf
In the meantime, we are in the heart of the golf season, and there is much to enjoy—so bring it on!
From top: Camiral Golf & Wellness in Girona, Spain; Arnold Palmer at his final U.S. Open; Ludvig Åberg.
65
Ultimate Golf Getaway: Scotland
Discover the finest courses, castles, distilleries, and much more in this insider’s guide to an unforgettable Scottish sojourn.
82
The European Grand Tour
From Tuscany to the Alentejo, several of the world’s top golf resorts are on the Continent.
94 Hidden Treasures
Apes Hill. Green Monkey. We’ve gone bananas for Barbados as a golf destination.
98 Pride & Glory
Golf’s top team event comes to the notorious Bethpage Black.
104 Ludvig Åberg
A Kingdom exclusive with the Swedish star and Ryder Cup record holder.
110 Ben Crenshaw
On the golf club that changed the course of a legendary career.
114 Jacob Sjöman
Carving out a creative niche in golf photography. 82 The
Club at Castiglion del Bosco
Photo: Jacob Sjöman
Cornish Century
A trip to Cornwall, in the southwestern tip of England, is an escape from the buzz and hustle of suburban life. The coastline of this unspoiled county is embellished with rocky cliffs and interspersed with golden beaches. Inside shady, ancient pubs, the legends of Cornish pirates and wreckers are passed through the generations.
One such golden beach surrounds Constantine Bay, on Cornwall’s northfacing Atlantic shoreline. Lying amid the sandy dunes of Constantine is Trevose Golf & Country Club, which celebrates its centenary this year. If ever a golf club justifies the label of “hidden treasure,” it is Trevose, whose centerpiece, the Championship Course, is a Harry Colt links of true quality.
Trevose also boasts the nine-hole Headland Course and nine-hole Short Course (measuring 1,360 yards), the latter of which is perfect for families. The variety of golf points to what Trevose does better than perhaps any other in the UK: combine a classic, high-caliber links tradition and excellent self-catering accommodation with a relaxed and inclusive atmosphere.
Approach the
Weekends in Bermuda, custom rides for summer, brews for the Ryder Cup & more
Highlands Escape
The Carnegie Club at Skibo Castle, a private members enclave just north of the Dornoch Firth in the Scottish Highlands, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. The 8,000-acre Skibo Castle estate dates back to the 13th century and was developed into an exclusive retreat in the late 19th century by Scottish American industrialist Andrew Carnegie.
Tradition and innovation intertwine impressively at today’s Carnegie Club, where a classic loch-side links is complemented by a new, state-of-the-art golf training facility. The Links Retreat is equipped with Trackman shot-tracking technology for members to refine their games year-round, whatever the weather.
Members also enjoy exemplary accommodations and fine dining. Activities beyond golf include paddleboarding, clay shooting, fishing, horseback riding, wild swimming, cycling, quad-biking, and falconry, all amid a Highlands landscape defined by Loch Evelix and pristine forests and moorland.
A Wild Ride
Arnold Palmer was unambiguous in his preference for playing golf on foot. “Walking is the better way to enjoy golf,” he once told Kingdom. “Walking is the way the game is supposed to be played.”
Even the King, however, had to bow down to nature now and again. When presented with a 125-acre site on Costa Rica’s rugged Peninsula Papagayo, he did what circumstances dictated, building a course that embraced the sprawling, topographically spectacular setting—and was utterly unwalkable for all but the most ardent foot soldiers.
Stretching nearly nine miles from first tee to 18th green—with constant ups and downs along the way—Palmer’s Ocean Course set a new standard in Costa Rica when it debuted in 2004. It remains the lone layout and a primary attraction at Peninsula Papagayo, a 1,400-acre swath of luxury resorts, residences, hidden beaches, and tropical dry forest that juts into the Pacific in the country’s Guanacaste province.
Navigating a cart on the Ocean Course can feel like a safari drive, as howler monkeys and myriad bird species frequent the forest lining the fairways and long paths that link one hole to the next. Each hole offers a distinct environment, from thread-the-needle layouts in jungleshrouded valleys to wide-open par 5s with ocean views all around.
The Ocean Course completed a two-year renovation in 2023, led by Thad Layton of Arnold Palmer Design Company. More recently, it welcomed a new neighbor—Nekajui, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, which opened this February on a dramatic clifftop site near the Ocean Course’s Ronald Zürcher–designed clubhouse. For more on the new Nekajui resort, see “Pura Aventura” on page 134.
Evan Schiller
Photo:
Fazio’s Return
The majority of Reynolds Lake Oconee’s seven championship golf courses are available to resort guests, but there are perks to being a member. The latest comes in the form of the Georgia community’s new Richland course, a members-only track that spans 7,090 yards and seamlessly blends nine brandnew holes designed by Tom Fazio with nine of his existing creations, the latter of which were purposefully renovated to reflect his modern sensibilities.
Across the existing nine holes (previously called the Bluff), bunkers were added, removed, repositioned, and—in some cases—merged. Putting surfaces were reshaped, while some greens were moved to bring the nearby lake more into play. The new holes traverse a dramatically sloped inland parcel of land, which includes an imposing ravine and a deep valley. Here, strategic doglegs come into play, along with aggressively sloped greens.
“There’s a lot of terrain variation—lots of ups and downs, ins and outs, twists and turns—which is great for golf,” Fazio said at the course’s opening. “That’s what makes this such a fine natural setting. It has character and will never play the same.”
A membership with the exclusive new golf club Redan grants, among other privileges, access to the company’s plush collection of clothing and accessories. The distinctive label has the fingerprints of Redan co-founder and fashion designer Jon Buscemi, featuring apparel made from choice materials, with an elevated sense of style that’s right on course.
Clockwise from top left: Natural cap with custom six-panel construction in natural cotton twill and adjustable matte nickel closure; duffel bag; Pelle handcrafted leather club cover with canvas top and custom Redan pull system; brown vest featuring 100 percent Zegna Baruffa Cashwool 1978; Winslow long-sleeve knit polo in gray, with 100 percent Zegna Baruffa Cashwool 1978 and natural shell Redan buttons.
Photo: Mark Griffin Champion
NEW GOLF NUMBERS
How does one count to Eleventy? Who knows—but we can now count the Milan-born brand among the luxury fashion houses that are hitting the course. The company’s new golf capsule highlights a variety of functional, smart pieces, from caps to quarter-zips, that take casual elegance to the next level.
NEW RELEASE
SPEED READING
Launched in May, Formula 1: The Impossible Collection (second edition) from luxury publisher Assouline keeps pace with the ultrafast world of the international sport, zeroing in on the victories of the Red Bull team and other recent trials and triumphs. From F1’s intrepid drivers to its under-the-radar pros, the stories and imagery in the 228-page tome—replete with handcrafted cover—are compelling and coffee-table worthy.
Coastal Perspective
Causeway View from Royal Portrush, by Frankie Creith, is among the works of art on display this summer at Frankie Creith Art, on Main Street in Portrush. The gallery is a welcome diversion for Portrush’s golf-bound visitors, featuring paintings, prints, and gifts designed by the celebrated local artist.
Above: Eleventy cotton baseball cap, knit sneaker, cashmere quarter-zip sweater, silk vest, and super stretch joggers.
Photo: Mark Griffin Champion
LET IT FLY
Tumi’s hard-sided, two-wheeled golf travel case eliminates the anxiety that comes from handing your clubs over at the airport. The polycarbonate case comes with a padded front and back lid, tie-down straps, an integrated TSA lock, and multiple handles for easy maneuvering.
MATCH PLAY
Those looking to be on the scene for this year’s Ryder Cup, from September 26 to 28 in Farmingdale, New York, will find daily ticket packages and longer travel itineraries through eventexperiences curator On Location. Extra-special add-ons are possible, too: Think viewing from the first tee, or enjoying the amenities at the 16th Hole Chalet, on the famed Bethpage Black Course.
LEGACY OF STYLE
Thirty years ago, Ferrari delivered a rare F50 in Giallo Modena yellow to fashion icon Ralph Lauren. In August, the supercar will cross the block at RM Sotheby’s auction during Monterey Car Week.
“This car checks every box,” says car specialist Zach Oller of RM Sotheby’s. “The spec is exceptional . . . the provenance is unmatched . . . and it’s one of the finest examples known to exist.” Presale estimates peak at $7.5 million.
LAND-DWELLER
HIGH CALIBER
Armed with an innovative selfwinding movement, the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller is a testament to Rolex’s pioneering spirit. The famous Oyster case has been restyled and showcases a detailed dial with a honeycomb motif. The bezel comes fluted or set with diamonds, while a new Flat Jubilee bracelet incorporates both high-polish and satin finishings.
CONTRIBUTORS: Robin Barwick, Lori Bryan, and Shaun Tolson
Inspired
by the Ryder Cup, we put together our own America-versus-Europe
face-off of some of our favorite beers from both sides of the pond. Who wins? Everybody does—you can’t go wrong with any of these brews.
STOUTS PORTERS
Some golfers take joy in posting low scores, and they’ll gladly link together good, sometimes conservative, shots to do it. Others live to be bold and will never back down from the low-percentage hero shot. Guinness Draught, with its velvety mouthfeel, creamy head, and bittersweet flavors of roasted malt and dark chocolate, is the former. You’ll gladly string together a few of these at the pub. Founders Brewing’s KBS, on the other hand, is the ultimate risk-reward. An imperial stout aged in ex-bourbon barrels, it flaunts rich caramel and bright vanilla on the nose, then transitions to roasty flavors with hints of dark chocolate and sweet bourbon. KBS drinks remarkably smooth—especially considering its potency at 12 percent ABV—but as with those hero shots on the course, it’s a fool’s errand to chase too many of these at one time.
It’s a fool’s errand to chase too many of these at one time.
A golfer’s journey from tee box to green often is strewn with detours, with infinite routes leading to the little round cup at the end of the trip. When seeking a refreshing pint teeming with the characteristic bittersweet notes of dark, roasted malts, there’s an equally vast array of paths you can take. In the United States, beer connoisseurs generally agree that Deschutes Brewery’s Black Butte Porter is the premier porter in the land. Easy drinking with a light body, notes of dark chocolate, and traces of vanilla, this beer delivers a crisp, slightly dry, and bitter finish. Across the pond, Samuel Smith’s Taddy Porter is softer and more fragrant on the nose. It’s round and smooth on the palate, with faint jammy dark cherry notes, and it finishes with a pleasant bitterness. Both porters offer proof that there are many ways to make par.
WHEAT BEERS
There is no greater luxury in golf than playing on pristinely maintained putting surfaces that roll fast and true. With every stroke of the putter, you know exactly what you’re going to get. Some wheat beers offer a similarly steady drinking experience. Lively, bright, and crisp, Allagash White is a witbier that packs plenty of flavor into its light body, including a lime-cordial-like tang and a faint breadiness. Germany’s Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier is equally layered with taste. What begins with a slightly malty aroma laden with citrus and water crackers evolves into a complex sip swirling with candied oranges, black pepper, and a slight yeasty funk that defines the style.
Its appearance alone suggests a layered and flavorful beer.
STRONG ALES/ PALE ALES
Galleries at professional tournaments are wowed most by two things: long drives and spectacular recoveries. The pale ale equivalent of the longest hitter on tour is 3 Floyds Brewing’s Zombie Dust Pouring a rich amber hue, its appearance alone suggests a layered and flavorful beer. On the nose, tropical fruits and candied orange peel give way to bright citrus and sweet malty notes on the palate, all of which culminate in a hop-focused bitter finish reminiscent of a well-crafted West Coast IPA. Duvel, on the other hand, is craft beer’s shot-shaping marvel. Breathe in its aromas (above a fluffy, cloudlike head that clings to the side of the glass), and this Belgian golden ale shines with a duet of lemon zest and coriander. Crisp on the palate, with faint traces of ripe banana alongside flavors that mirror those aromas, this beer delivers plenty of twists and turns along the way.
shaun tolson
ESSENCE
GET IN TOUCH WITH OUR EXPERTS
DIVINE DROPLETS
Rebecca Hawkins, director of design for the British jeweler Boodles, reflects on the inspiration for—and the recent reimagination of—the house’s famed Raindance collection.
Sometimes artistic vision comes from the unexpected. Rather than springing from an object or setting of obvious beauty, it might be found in something more curious or subtle, perhaps in something unseen by others. That’s what happened 25 years ago in London when jewelry designer Rebecca Hawkins wandered through the annual Chelsea Flower Show.
“Set within a garden, there was a very simple foursided pillar with several fine rills cut vertically down each side,” recalls Hawkins, director of design at Boodles, a family-owned London jeweler with origins in 18th-century Liverpool. “Water was trickling down each rill and collecting in droplets of different sizes, and occasionally two droplets merged. The droplets were catching the sunlight and shining like diamonds, and that’s how the idea started.”
Rough sketches and notes evolved into refined drawings of what would become the Raindance collection—pieces that recall raindrops glistening in the sunshine of a summer
Necklace and earrings (top) from the Raindance 25 collection, which is handcrafted in Boodles’s London workshops.
The droplets were catching the sunlight and shining like diamonds.”
garden. Technical scale drawings were then converted into silver patterns before the creation of finished samples in platinum. The final jewelry was made by hand and set in platinum—and this process is still in use today.
Boodles’s Raindance became one of Britain’s most famous jewelry collections, and a multi-diamond ring from the series is on permanent display at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. To celebrate 25 years of Raindance, Boodles has introduced Raindance 25, which incorporates very rare Argyle pink diamonds for the first time, adding flashes of warmth to the line’s signature white diamonds.
“The work on the concept and design is all by hand,” Hawkins says of the pieces, which retail from $65,000 to more than $500,000. “These days, designs transition into a three-dimensional digital file, but all design decisions and development are made by hand and mind. The assembly is by hand, and the stone cutting, selection, and setting are all done by hand. Finishing techniques, such as polishing, are also by hand.”
Made in Boodles’s London workshops, each piece of jewelry passes through the hands of at least eight core specialists. And while the collection is not technically “limited edition,” it is inevitably niche, and the finite supply of Argyle pink diamonds ensures that production remains quite small.
Like raindrops catching sunlight, the Raindance designs have always been about capturing a moment. They certainly know how to bring sparkle to a rainy day.
robin barwick
The collection incorporates rare Argyle pink diamonds.
CUSTOM RIDES
highly modified vehicles for hitting the pavement in style
by SHAUN TOLSON
ARCH 1S BY ARCH MOTORCYCLES
Every motorcycle that Arch builds is a custom bike—it’s just not a one-off creation from the start. In the words of the brand’s co-founder, Gard Hollinger, Arch is a limitedproduction motorcycle company. “We have designed, engineered, and developed repeatable model platforms and have built in the ability to personalize both the ergonomics and aesthetics,” he explains. Whether clients choose the race-inspired 1s as their foundational build or the KRGT-1 (a high-performance cruiser designed with an aggressive profile), they’ll enjoy the company’s 124-cubic-inch, hightorque V-Twin engine. The team works off photos provided by the client— images of anything that inspires or excites them—to personalize the bike’s details. “Many finishes are available for nearly all components,” Hollinger says, “and each Arch motorcycle has a unique livery design and colors.”
2
MERCEDES-BENZ W113 SL ‘PAGODA’ BY EVERRATI
Back in the day, discerning automotive enthusiasts commissioned coachbuilders like Zagato, Figoni et Falaschi, and Pininfarina to create bespoke automobiles that captured—and sometimes flaunted— their individual styles. Everrati—a specialty British automaker known for converting mid-20th-century classics into modern, electric-powered incarnations of their former fuel-injected selves—is bringing back the craft. Last year, the company launched Artisan, a new division focused exclusively on custom builds. “This is more than customization,” says Libby Meigh, Everrati’s color, material, and finish specialist. “It’s a deeply personal commissioning journey shaped entirely around our client’s personal vision.”
620GE BY EXPEDITION MOTOR COMPANY
Since its inception in 2017, Expedition Motor Company (EMC) has rebuilt more than 160 Daimler-Benz Geländewagens from the 1990s. When they roll out of EMC’s production facility in New Jersey, these G-Wagons, as they’re commonly known, might look like authentic restorations—at least at first glance—but they’re loaded with modern conveniences and plenty of amplified power. Each vehicle undergoes 2,300 hours of restoration and modification, and the company’s latest iteration, the 620GE, boasts contemporary bells and whistles like wireless Apple CarPlay, a Harman Kardon 6.1 audio system, heated seats, and a backup camera. Under the hood, clients will find a 6.2-liter V-8 capable of delivering up to 430 hp. In the words of EMC’s founder, Alex Levin, “Anyone who loves the design of our G-Wagons and desires a beefier engine will be blown away by the 620GE.”
PORSCHE 911 CARRERA COUPE BY SINGER
We’re celebrating the heritage of the Porsche 911.”
Style revivals from the 1980s can be questionable at best, but we’re fully on board with the idea of bringing back one of the era’s iconic vehicles.
Working with client-supplied Porsche 911s, specifically Type 964s, Singer is rejuvenating the cars with naturally aspirated, four-valve flat-6 engines. The power plant is Singer’s first to feature variable valve timing, which optimizes drivability at low speeds and maximizes power at high revs. From there, customization options are plentiful and can be tailored to intended use, whether that’s relaxed touring or track-focused performance.
“We’re celebrating the heritage of the Porsche 911,” says Singer chief strategy officer Mazen Fawaz, “both for those who read every press report about their hero cars as kids and for those who were too young to know about these incredible machines the first time around.”
A chip shot from the East Coast, this tiny subtropical island packs in plenty on a quick golf or dive trip.
by JILLIAN DARA
Bermuda
Golf Getaway
For golfers, the word “Bermuda” might bring to mind the eponymous grass that graces fairways from Pinehurst No. 2 to Augusta National. But there’s a better reason to associate Bermuda with golf: The tiny island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean is home to more golf courses per capita than any country in the world.
At only 21 square miles from the eastern end of St. George’s to the western hook of Dockyard, Bermuda packs in seven courses, including Port Royal Golf Course, host of the PGA Tour’s annual Butterfield Bermuda Championship. Designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr., this 6,842-yard course is one of the island’s longest, known for its TifEagle greens and watercolor ocean views in shades of turquoise and cerulean.
Also on Bermuda’s must-play list is the 6,491yard Tucker’s Point Golf Club. Originally designed in 1932 by Charles H. Banks, this local favorite was completely revamped in 2002 by Roger Rulewich and today sits adjacent to the island’s most luxurious resort, Rosewood Bermuda.
No matter the course, it can be played pretty much any time of year. Bermuda’s subtropical climate brings 60-degree averages in the winter and 80-degree days (albeit with high humidity) in the summer, when it’s best to squeeze in a round before midday.
Stay
Situated on the island’s east end, the 88-key Rosewood Bermuda maintains a modern flair as an all-encompassing resort with four swimming pools, a beach club, and a Sense spa. Prime access to Tucker’s Point is one of the many perks for guests, who can roll out of bed, hit the driving range and 10,000-square-foot practice green, play a full round, and still have plenty of time for a day at the beach club.
Eat
Sul Verde, Rosewood Bermuda’s Italian restaurant, showcases chef Maximo Villagra’s signature dishes, such as trofie al pesto (with fresh pasta) and saltimbocca alla Romana. For something more casual, venture to the Beach Club Restaurant, where the oceanfront tables and coastally influenced menu truly evoke a sense of place.
Do
While it can be tempting to stay in a bubble of birdies and beach time, it’s worth dedicating an afternoon to exploring downtown Hamilton. The harbor-front capital, with its pastel facades, looks more like Candy Land than an international business hub, and there are plenty of heritage shops for destination-specific souvenirs, from island-inspired perfumes to black rum.
Sul Verde Rosewood Bermuda
Diving Days
Away from the greens, the place to be is immersed in the deep blues—that is, the pristine waters around Bermuda. Water temperatures are warmest during the high season (May through October, with an average of 82 degrees), but even in the winter, the 73-degree average is nothing a wet suit can’t protect against.
Bermuda has an estimated 300 shipwrecks and thriving coral systems that visitors can explore by snorkeling, free diving, or scuba diving. Many of the coral reefs form a platform surrounded by deep sea, creating a visually stunning contrast as the ocean’s palette shifts from navy to aqua to celeste at the shallowest point.
Stay
For more than three decades, Grotto Bay Beach Resort has served as the island’s only PADI 5-Star Instructor Development Center, offering diving trips, snorkeling tours, and PADI training courses ranging from beginner to instructor level. The resort’s 201 rooms and 11 cottages feature walk-out patios or balconies, providing private outdoor spaces to take in oceanfront views from a different perspective.
Eat
A short stroll from Grotto Bay, the Swizzle Inn is known for Bermuda’s iconic Rum Swizzle cocktail. This long-standing haunt serves its mandarin-colored punch by the pitcher, alongside a local favorite: a fish sandwich on raisin bread with “the works.” Always ask for the fresh catch, whether it’s served as sushi at Pearl on downtown’s Front Street or enjoyed with toes in the sand at Breezes, the beachside restaurant at Cambridge Beaches.
Do
In addition to diving, carve out time to enjoy the surrounding sea at leisure. Rent a boat and anchor at Castle Harbour or Mangrove Bay—both protected coves with sandy bottoms—or stay on land at one of the island’s 30-plus beaches, some featuring Bermuda’s signature powdery pink sand.
Port Royal Golf Course
Flatts Village
YOUR DREAM, YOUR WAY
There’s nothing else like it – privately guided travel that’s customized exactly the way you want in over 120 countries worldwide. Whether it’s exploring iconic landmarks, indulging in a luxury safari, or teeing off at legendary golf courses, we bring your dream journey to life in unforgettable style.
Ryders on the Storm
Winter felt especially long and unforgiving this year, making the start of New York’s golf season all the more anticipated. April 12 marked opening day at Bethpage Black—host of the 2019 PGA Championship, two Barclays, two U.S. Opens (including Tiger Woods’s iconic 2002 victory), and this year’s Ryder Cup. For New York golf enthusiasts, this course is a rite of passage—especially on opening day.
I had heard stories about what it takes to secure a tee time and how coveted the opportunity is to play the legendary public track on Long Island, so I hopped on a flight to the Big Apple for the big day. What greeted me upon arrival, however, was far from ideal: 35 degrees, wind, and rain. Surely, I thought, no one would show up to play in these conditions, but the tee sheet was stacked. Solo golfers, couples, kids, friends, locals, visitors—these diehards would not miss an opportunity to play Bethpage Black on opening day.
If you think securing the time is the hardest part, just wait.”
IN THE BLACK
How does one secure a tee time at Bethpage Black, which is among the most notoriously challenging courses in America? If you’re aiming for a coveted weekend slot, plan to arrive the night before and “camp out” in your car. Bethpage has a designated parking system with numbered spots; if you land between numbers 1 and 25, there’s a good chance you’ll secure a tee time before noon. (Someone needs to be in the car to be eligible.) Around 5 a.m., a Bethpage State Park employee makes the rounds, handing out tickets to each car, with a maximum of four golfers per vehicle. Everyone must be present at that time to receive their ticket. From there, you head to the clubhouse and wait for your number to be called. If you think securing the time is the hardest part, just wait. Stretching roughly 7,500 yards from the tips, Bethpage Black is a true test of golf. Its narrow, canted fairways,
punishing bunkers, and slick greens have humbled even the world’s best players. A warning sign at the first tee highlights the challenge: “The Black Course is an extremely difficult course which we recommend only for highly skilled golfers.” Yet, for many, that’s the allure: a chance to challenge yourself on a course etched in major championship history.
CHANGING COURSE
I visited Bethpage Black with the Ryder Cup media team to capture behind-the-scenes content ahead of the tournament. It was a full-circle moment of sorts, as attending the 2016 Ryder Cup had been a pivotal point in my career. At the time, I was fresh out of college, chasing my dream of having a journalism career and working at CBS News. A friend surprised me with tickets to the Ryder Cup
at Hazeltine. Although I had played golf in college, I had never considered combining my love for the game with my career. That changed as I sat in the grandstands of the first tee, the sun just coming up, and watched legends like Fred Couples—whose swing I had studied obsessively on YouTube back in high school. The week was also a tribute to the late Arnold Palmer, deepening my connection to the sport’s traditions and its ability to bring people together.
Somewhere between all the emotions, it became clear: I needed to work in golf. I found myself, spotty cell service and all, searching for Golf Channel job openings from the grandstands. A few months later, after sending weekly self-tapes to the network, I was invited to Orlando for a studio audition. Soon enough, I was living in Florida and working at Golf Channel, with my desk just steps away from the office where Arnold Palmer once sat.
RYDER CUP RETURN
I’m more excited than ever to return to Bethpage Black in September. The course is less than an hour from Times Square and, in the other direction, the Hamptons, so there are endless options for things to do and places to eat, including in Farmingdale, the village on Long Island where Bethpage is located. For avid golfers, it’s well worth a visit—even without a guarantee that you’ll be able to book a tee time at Bethpage Black. To up your chances, I recommend a weekday, unless you want the full Bethpage Black experience. Either way, Bethpage is a true New York moment.
Contributing editor Alexandra O’Laughlin is a golf correspondent and a host of Golf Channel’s The Drop.
Style summer
This season, I’m all about dressing to the nines—on and off the course. These looks and accessories are easy to pack, comfortable from head to toe, and accented with plenty of pops of color. —A.O.
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Ecco Golf Biom H5 Women’s Leather Waterproof Golf Shoe ($229). Built for the elements, these shoes keep your feet comfy and dry, whether you’re on a trip to Scotland or playing Bethpage Black on a rainy day.
G/Fore Embroidered Icon
Stretch Twill Hat ($45), Signature Golf Glove ($38), Tech Piqué Quarter Zip Performance Polo ($120), Shadow Stretch High Waisted Short ($165), MG4+ O2 G/Lock Skull & Tees Golf Shoe ($225).
Ralph Lauren Cable-Knit Wool-Cashmere Sweater ($198), Polo Sweater Bodice Dress ($398), Crocheted Raffia Sun Hat ($148), Cutout Canvas Espadrille ($268), Polo Play Leather Pocket Crossbody ($348), Rolex Oyster Perpetual with green dial 41 mm ($6,650).
Golf at Palmetto Bluff is shaped by purpose—for the land, the game, and those who play with intention. Set within 20,000 acres of South Carolina Lowcountry, this storied community is home to three distinct courses. Jack Nicklaus’ May River course honors the contours of the maritime forest. Crossroads by King Collins redefines the nine-hole experience—fast, bold, and endlessly fun. And soon, Coore & Crenshaw will debut a purist design shaped wholly by the land itself. Here, neighbors gather on the green as easily as on the front porch, with homes and homesites thoughtfully woven into the landscape and community coming naturally.
DESIGN DREAMS
Following a 31-year career with the United States Golf Association, Mike Davis teamed up with Tom Fazio II to indulge a lifelong fascination with golf course architecture. The duo’s first creation, the South Course at Apogee Golf Club, recently opened for play.
Tell us about your introduction to golf.
My family were members of Chambersburg Country Club, which at the time was a par-74 golf course. I was about eight years old when my father used to take me out. He was a pretty good golfer, and back then there really weren’t kids’ clubs. I remember having a cutoff 6-iron, a cutoff 9-iron, and a cutoff putter.
What was the course like?
It was a somewhat hilly property that had a beautiful trout stream running through it. There was a fair amount of elevation change—I would guesstimate probably 90 feet from high to low—but it had a great diversity of holes that were very strategic. It would absolutely be in the top five courses in Central Pennsylvania.
When did you develop an interest in course design?
Ever since I was young, I would wonder, How did this hole get built? How did someone come up with something so brilliant? Did they luck out? Or was it something that they had planned for? Even going back to when I was playing competitive golf as a junior or in college, I was so excited when I got to play a really good golf course. There were times when I was far more interested in the golf course than in what I was shooting. That’s probably why I never really got any better in college than my freshman year.
Did you consider becoming a golf course architect?
I was 25 years old when I joined the USGA, and at that point I never thought I would enter design work. But when I was doing championships and was inside the ropes, I liked to think about the architecture. I asked myself, How do you make an interesting championship that really makes players think? Architecture is part of that story, whether it’s adding new tees or going forward with tees or shifting fairway lines a little. For the 2010 U.S. Open at Pebble Beach,
for example, I eliminated rough between the fairway and the ocean. That had never been done before, but I just thought, the ocean is part of it. It’s part of the strategy.
Who are some of the architects who have inspired you along the way?
Over the years, I ended up working with a fair number of golf course designers. I got to know Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, Rees Jones, and Tom Fazio, and they were terrific. It’s as much a pinch-me moment to spend time with Bill Coore as it is to spend time with Jack Nicklaus. That’s how much design has meant to me.
Talk to us about the South Course at Apogee. What makes its design special?
Our course has a lot of width to it, but it’s got a lot of strategy and choice in it. If you’re playing from the proper tees, 12 of the 14 fairways have a cross bunker that you can take on, and you can be rewarded with an angle or a kicker slope. The reason we did that was to make it interesting for the better player who can control his or her ball. But also, when you have a lot of width, it does something that ownership really wanted. They didn’t want a lot of forced carries, and they didn’t want a lot of lost balls.
Creating a golf course that’s fun for players of all abilities is a big talking point these days. How difficult is that to achieve?
It’s really easy to make a hard golf course and easy to make a really easy golf course. But what’s hard is building a golf course that has strategy in it for the better player but is playable for higher-handicap golfers. Part of what makes a great golf course is that it’s fun and interesting for all levels of players.
Interviewed by michael croley
How do you make an interesting championship that really makes players think?”
Longtime USGA CEO Mike Davis during the 143rd Open Championship at Royal Liverpool, 2014.
Revolutionary Tee Time
Williamsburg is where golf meets the origins of the United States, with a host of championship courses designed by legends like Robert Trent Jones Sr. and his son, Rees Jones, and icons Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus. Pristine courses are set amidst stunning woodlands and waterways. Explore the rich history of Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Yorktown, savor farm-to-table cuisine, and unwind in an historic lodging or modern retreat. Visit the famous Golden Horseshoe GC, where a picturesque 9-hole, par-3 course designed by Rees Jones – The Shoe – opens this summer. Nestled next to the club’s renowned Gold Course, The Shoe is perfect for golfers of all ages and skill levels, and features holes up to 137 yards in length for a round that is low on time, high on entertainment.
visitwilliamsburg.com/things-to-do/golf
Golden Horseshoe Golf Club
Lessons learned from Kingdom co-founder Arnold Palmer
Swing Your Swing
Arnold Palmer had a distinctive golf swing, from a big turn in the backswing to a twirl of the wrists at the top of the follow-through. It was unconventional but successful, and it convinced him that all golfers should embrace their own style.
ON PALMER’S SWING
“Deacon, you better do something about that kid’s swing. He swings so hard, he can’t even stay on his feet.”
—Latrobe Country Club member to Deacon Palmer, circa 1940
“Better tell him to get a job. With that swing of his, he’ll never make it out here.”
—Tour golfer Toney Penna, early 1955
“How the hell did Palmer get in the Masters?”
—Tour golfer Ben Hogan, on the eve of Palmer’s Masters debut in 1955
Jim Murray, legend of the Los Angeles Times sports pages, wrote that Arnold Palmer’s swing “looked like a guy trying to beat a carpet.” The best lines are often the simplest, and Murray’s lighthearted swipe was all the better because it contained an element of truth. Palmer didn’t have the rhythm of Sam Snead. His swing lacked the technical precision of Ben Hogan. But Palmer really let the ball have it all. He attacked it with venom—and it worked.
Palmer’s golf swing and philosophy were learned from his father, Deacon, who was superintendent at Latrobe Country Club in western Pennsylvania. Deacon had a knack for keeping things simple. He showed his son how to grip the club, insisted that he never change that grip, and said, “Hit it hard, Boy. Go find it, and hit it hard again.” Palmer stuck to this advice throughout his career, and he became the world’s best golfer.
Palmer would later write in his book A Life Well Played, “There was no question my swing was unique. I swung my own swing. . . . Sure, my swing was herky-jerky as some of the ‘experts’ called it, but
it was effective. And I owned my swing.”
Tom Watson grew up idolizing Palmer, and he offered Kingdom this description of Palmer’s swing: “Arnold had a fast swing. . . . If you can swing your arms fast, you can hit the golf ball a long way, and Arnie could swing his arms fast. Arnie turned his hips so violently that the club came down online. That is the power move in golf, right there. The arms and hands unleash from that coiled [backswing] position into impact. Then came Arnie’s iconic finish: He had to finish with his hands high to prevent the hook.”
When Palmer joined the tour in 1955, Deacon reminded him, “Go out and play your own game.”
“I did what he told me,” recalled Palmer. “If you feel like you’re getting the basic fundamentals when you start, and you think you’ve got a pretty good swing going for you, stick with it. . . . My thought was always to execute good shots . . . not perfect swings.”
And how did Palmer respond to Murray’s quip about beating a carpet? Palmer said, “Maybe so, but it was effective in beating the opposition, too.”
robin barwick
WHERE PATRIOTISM MEETS PURPOSE
FOLDS OF HONOR FRIDAY MAKES FRIDAYS ON TOUR ABOUT MORE THAN THE GAME
This season, Folds of Honor Friday has once again ignited a renewed sense of purpose across the PGA TOUR, transforming tournament Fridays into powerful tributes of patriotism and unity.
At events on the PGA TOUR, PGA TOUR Champions, and Korn Ferry Tour, fans proudly don red, white, and blue to stand for something far greater than the game itself. Through on-course activations, scholarship presentations, and heartfelt tributes, each Friday reinforces our unwavering commitment to honor sacrifice and fund educational opportunities for the families of America’s heroes.
Alongside players, fans, volunteers, and tournament partners, we’re building meaningful momentum at every stop. As the season progresses, so does the mission — because every Folds of Honor Friday represents another step forward in supporting the families of our nation’s fallen or disabled military service members and first responders.
America’s Favorite Island®.
From the great outdoors to the fresh flavors of the Lowcountry, Hilton Head Island has something for everyone.
Natural Connection
On Hilton Head Island, nature and wellness go hand in hand.
Hilton Head Island native Charlotte Hardwick lived in cities all over the world before the nature and beauty of the Lowcountry lured her back three years ago. “I wanted to get back to living around all of the things I love most,” Hardwick recalls. “The ocean, the marshes, being outside—just getting back to that feeling of connection with the land.”
A certified yoga teacher and nutritionist, Hardwick took her passion for holistic health and launched Flow and Nourish, a wellness company that blends movement and breath work with inspired, seasonal eating. “My cooking and yoga classes tune into what the season does to our bodies” Hardwick says, “and the ways we can use movement and food to support the change of season.”
One of the ways she does this is to encourage people to pay attention to their surroundings. “This island invites people to notice and to be curious,” Hardwick says. “People come here ready to slow down, and this practice that I’m doing really supports that.”
Hardwick crafts personalized wellness experiences for her clients based on their interests and needs, whether that’s learning to transform fresh tomatoes from Spanish Wells Seafood & Produce into a delicious tomato pie or practicing yoga on the beach at sunset. “I think people are looking to have experiences that are different from what they do at home,” says Hardwick. “They’re traveling with a lot more curiosity, and when I think of Hilton Head Island, I think there’s just a natural curiosity here, and that encourages me so much.”
Pro Tip
“Start with a sunrise beach walk and then take a class at Jiva Yoga Center or do a private session with me. For lunch I’d go to Delisheeyo— they have the best juices and wraps and salads. End the day with a kayak in the tidal creeks, where you can see dolphins. To me, that’s just the definition of wellness.”
—Charlotte Hardwick
Living History
A rich heritage and Gullah Geechee traditions infuse the Hilton Head Island experience.
Despite its pivotal role in American history, Hilton Head Island’s Historic Mitchelville Freedom Park remains largely unknown outside of the region. Ahmad Ward, the park’s executive director, is leading an effort to change that.
When the Union Army captured Hilton Head Island in 1861, plantation owners fled, leaving behind hundreds of enslaved people who were considered “contraband” of the Civil War. A year later, Union general Ormsby Mitchel established what became the first town of self-governing, formerly enslaved people in the United States. Mitchelville, as it was called, soon became a thriving community of Gullah Geechee people—most with roots in West Africa— complete with rows of wooden homes, churches, and South Carolina’s first mandatory school system.
“Mitchelville residents went from being property to owning property,” Ward says, “It was the first time that Africans in America could feel like citizens without fear of reprisal.” The lush, 36-acre landmark features building replicas, walking trails, and a pier overlooking Port Royal Sound. A visitor center, interpretive exhibits, and classroom space are in the works. “Even though this story is steeped in African American culture, its major themes are freedom, democracy, citizenship, and opportunity,” says Ward. “And those are themes we can all relate to.”
Lola Campbell, an attorney who can trace her Gullah heritage back six generations, is on her own mission to promote island history. In 2022 she opened Binya, a chic little boutique where she sells jewelry, art, and homewares made in the Lowcountry, as well as offering workshops, tours, and celebrations of traditional foodways. “Being isolated on these Sea Islands is really what allowed us to keep a lot of our culture close,” Campbell says, “Binya is a store, but it’s a cultural experience in and of itself.”
Pro Tip
“Take a walk through Historic Mitchelville Freedom Park and then stop by Binya—everyone who comes in here ends up having a conversation with me, my mom, or my sister about Gullah culture. Afterwards, have lunch at Mama Joy’s Kitchen, where you can get some good, Gullah soul food.”
—Lola Campbell
Scotland
It’s the unequivocal Home of Golf. It’s the setting for some of the world’s oldest castles and finest distilleries. It’s a mythical land of cragged coastlines, heather-filled Highlands, and legendary lochs. It’s on every golfer’s—and just about every other traveler’s—wish list. Your unforgettable Scottish sojourn starts here.
Since You Were Gone
A Centenary of Sorts
History aficionados might be interested to know that this past June marked 100 years since the Open Championship was last played at its original golf course, Prestwick Golf Club, on Scotland’s Ayrshire coast. Prestwick staged the Open 24 times— starting with the first one in 1860—but after hosting the 1925 tournament, it became one of the first great golf courses to be deemed too short to host a world-class field.
Built by Old Tom Morris by hand, bucket, and spade, Prestwick is a traditional, friendly club that offers one of Scotland’s great golf-and-lunch double acts. After lunch, try a glass of Kümmel—a caraway seed–based digestif sometimes referred to as “putting mixture” for its ability to dull nerves on the green.
Been a while since your last golf trip to Scotland? Here are a few recent happenings to consider as you shape your next itinerary.
by ROBIN BARWICK
Nearly Ready at Old Petty
Old Petty, the second 18-hole links course at Cabot Highlands, near Inverness, is due to open for walking-only preview play from August 1 to September 30. Designed by Tom Doak, Old Petty is the sister course to Castle Stuart Golf Links, a modern classic that was acquired by Cabot in 2022.
Ted Ray, pipe in mouth, tees off during the 1925 Open at Prestwick.
the old course in a bottle
The Eden Mill distillery in St Andrews has launched a new Golf Gin for this summer, featuring botanicals foraged from the Old Course itself. Never has a bottled spirit been so intrinsically attached to the world’s oldest golf course.
Eden Mill is an independent distillery located across the Eden Estuary from the Old Course. Its Golf Gin is distilled using the traditional London dry gin method—with Old Course botanicals such as gorse, heather, and lavender—and includes an underlying salty tang sourced from the nearby sea.
Eden Mill’s new visitor center opens in August, complete with a rooftop cocktail bar overlooking the estuary.
MAGNIFICENT 7
A new study conducted by the Sport Industry Research Center at Sheffield Hallam University in England shows that the seven golf courses operated by the St Andrews Links Trust attract 2,000 golfers each week, with 40 percent coming from the United States and 28 percent from the UK. In 2023, 283,000 rounds of golf were played on the seven courses. The annual economic impact of visitors to the St Andrews Links is estimated to be $430 million.
new vibe at old course hotel
The Road Hole Restaurant and the Road Hole Bar, on the fourth floor of the Old Course Hotel in St Andrews, have both been renovated. The Kohlerowned Old Course Hotel occupies perhaps the most privileged address in the world of golf—immediately adjacent to the legendary Road Hole on the Old Course. Panoramic views from the restaurant and bar bring in much of the course, the West Sands, the North Sea, the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, and the northern limits of this ancient Scottish town.
Featuring a vibrant open kitchen, the Road Hole Restaurant is an elegant fine-dining venue where guests might enjoy St Andrews Bay lobster ravioli, Fife lamb, and desserts made with strawberries from a local farm. The famous Road Hole Bar, meanwhile, boasts a collection of more than 300 whiskies.
“This renovation embodies our ethos of always evolving while remaining true to our roots,” says Old Course Hotel general manager Phyllis Wilkie. “Our guests can savor both the landscape and cuisine that make Scotland truly special and revel in the elevated, comfortable spaces that nod to our home in St Andrews.”
Lowdown
Championship Course at Royal Dornoch Golf Club
the Highlands
From links golf to historic castles—with just the right measure of Scotch—the northern region around the Dornoch Firth is always at the top of our list. Here’s why.
by SHAUN TOLSON
Ggolf travelers have long recognized the significance of Scotland’s Fife, East Lothian, and Ayrshire counties, where decades of Open Championships have been contested on proper links venues like Royal Troon, Muirfield, and the Old Course. The Highlands, meanwhile, was historically overlooked by visiting golfers, despite being home to several first-rate courses. That’s changed in recent years, as increasing numbers of discerning golfers have rightfully turned their attention to Caledonia’s northernmost region.
Links to the Past
It is here, in the rustic landscape that borders the Dornoch Firth, where one of Scotland’s—and thus one of the world’s—most revered courses has stood ready to test and inspire enthusiasts of the game for nearly 150 years. Set along the shores of its namesake firth, Royal Dornoch’s championship routing opened in 1886 and received its royal status from King Edward VII 20 years later. Playing across rumpled linksland, blanketed in some areas with heather and punctuated in others with thick patches of gorse, the 6,754-yard course was conceived by Old Tom Morris and served as Donald Ross’s master class in both learning the game and understanding the nuances of course design. This is where, in 1981, five-time Open champion Tom Watson declared his experience “the most fun I’ve ever had on a golf course” and where, since then, countless golfers have been dazzled by one of the purest links experiences. In
Brora Golf Club (above); Royal Dornoch Golf Club and Dornoch Station (right).
The most fun I’ve ever had on a golf course.”
—TOM WATSON
the words of Herbert Warren Wind, a respected authority on golf course architecture, “No golfer has completed his education until he has played and studied Royal Dornoch.”
Less than half an hour’s drive to the north, an equally scintillating, though far different, experience awaits golfers at Brora Golf Club. Laid out by multiple Open champion James Braid five years after Old Tom Morris completed his masterpiece in Dornoch, the course’s rugged fairways and modestly sloped greens serve as a time capsule for the look and feel of a classic, turn-of-the-20th-century Scottish course.
Brora’s 6,211 yards also offer the unusual opportunity to play alongside—and occasionally over—free-roaming herds of sheep. Those familiar with the history of the game know that early golf courses were laid out across stretches of grazing land, where livestock assisted in keeping grasses
trimmed. Brora was born in such a manner—and is still somewhat maintained that way. While the club’s grounds crew employs modern mowers and machinery, golfers are still unlikely to encounter any deep, penal rough, thanks to the sheep. That said, golfers must also navigate the thin, knee-high electric fences that encircle each green to block the sheep from roaming across the putting surfaces.
Authentic Stays
The region around Dornoch Firth is home to more than two dozen hotels, each in a distinct setting. Some are converted private estates, while others are modernized castles that date back to the 15th century. For those looking to stay as close to the action as possible—and by “action” we mean Royal Dornoch—there are two properties that outshine all the rest. Originally known as the Station Hotel when it opened in 1902, Dornoch Station, a Marine & Lawn Hotel, sparkles as a hidden gem tucked almost out of view, less than 200 yards from the first fairway. The property reemerged in 2023 after a nearly year-long renovation that completely transformed the 79 guest rooms, eight suites, and common areas, including a lobby inspired by Highlands hunting cabins and lodges.
Adorned with wallcoverings depicting Royal Dornoch’s official tartan plaid, the hotel’s saloon, Bar Ross, is a striking tribute to Donald Ross. It also serves as an evolving tribute to all the golfers who pass through its doors: A shelving unit that wraps around the game room allows guests to leave a golf ball to commemorate their visit.
The other top choice near Royal Dornoch is Links House. The stunning yet understated property delivers impeccable hospitality within a Georgian manor home with 15 rooms (including eight suites), each named after one of Scotland’s famous salmon rivers. The hotel’s main building was preserved and renovated by a Highlands-based firm known for its expertise in refurbishing local castles, shooting lodges, and country estates.
Links House is the vision of American Todd Warnock, who first visited Dornoch in 2005 and promptly declared that there was “magic in Dornoch, an enchanted feeling one gets when visiting.” He later added, “It’s the only place I have ever been where time seems to slow.”
From Casks to Castles
Golf goes hand in hand with great whisky in these parts, and adventurous imbibers will want to book one of three tours at Glenmorangie, a distillery that has produced fine single malts since 1843. Master distiller Bill Lumsden takes a bit of a mad-scientist approach to whisky creation, but visitors will find that even his boldest experiments are delicious. “I’m a whisky lover first and foremost,” he says, “and that’s what got me into the industry. I’m not driven by age, or price point, or brand positioning. I just make whiskies that people will love. That’s always my starting point.”
Cultural immersions in the Highlands don’t necessarily require whisky. A 20-minute drive north of Dornoch’s village center brings travelers to Dunrobin Castle, one of Scotland’s “great houses,” as they’re called. Comprising 189 rooms, the castle was designed by Sir Robert Lorimer and Sir Charles Barry, the latter of whom also designed London’s Houses of Parliament. The castle is notable for being one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses, dating back to the early 1300s, and it is open to self-guided tours.
Glenmorangie distillery (above),
Bar Ross at Dornoch Station (left, top), Links House (left, bottom), and PGA Centenary course at Gleneagles (right).
Scottish by Design
Born and raised in central Scotland, including summers on the Kintyre Peninsula, David McLay Kidd has exceptional golf, incredible landscapes, and centuries of history in his blood. The renowned golf course designer spoke to Shaun Tolson about his homeland.
Tell us about your upbringing in golf.
When I was a teenager, my father went to Gleneagles and spent 25 years as the golf courses’ superintendent and built the Nicklaus course that the Ryder Cup was held on. He and Jack became good friends, and my dad was instrumental in negotiating the 2014 Ryder Cup bid that Scotland won. That relationship with Jack was a big part of my entrée into golf course design and construction.
What was it like growing up with a golf-loving father?
My dad is a passionate golf historian, so my childhood was spent in a house full of old golf books and clubs and balls and paraphernalia. We would visit his colleagues at Carnoustie, St Andrews, Turnberry, and Muirfield. The greenkeepers were his closest friends.
Did you enjoy that, or did it feel like you were being dragged along?
I loved it. I absolutely idolized the superintendents and what they did—that they were the behind-the-scenes puppet masters for hosting the greatest tournament on Earth. I loved hearing about how these old masterpieces were finely tuned for the best players in the world to come and play, and how they planned for a British Open five years out.
Is there a Scottish course that served as your muse when you began your career?
James Braid’s work at Gleneagles was the cornerstone of my golf vernacular. What he did with the beautiful, rolling countryside there—he created amazing golf holes that, in many cases, break what would be considered American convention in course design. Lots of blind shots and wild greens and aggressive bunkering. But it’s highly playable, with very wide fairways and giant greens, and it’s not overly long. It’s a real roller coaster. I constantly refer back to that; that golf is supposed to be an adventure in the great outdoors.
Courtesy of Loraloma
Private Club and Estates
What courses do you like to play when you return to Scotland?
Kingsbarns, as a new course, I absolutely love. Kyle Phillips and Mark Parsinen created a landscape that one could believe was found rather than created. That golf course, more than any other, taught me that if you could learn the geology of a place, learn the history, you could fabricate a landscape that’s better suited to golf, but do it in a way that is also natural.
Are there others?
The Queen’s Course at Gleneagles is the finest short golf course in the world. It’s very similar to the King’s Course but a little bit more intimate, a little narrow, significantly shorter. As a young kid, the King’s Course was too long for me, so the Queen’s Course was perfect. It’s only 5,900 yards from the absolute tips, and yet, I dare you to say it’s easy. It’s just a phenomenal experience for such a short course.
If you’re not playing golf in Scotland, what are you doing?
Some of the best salmon fishing in the world is in Scotland. Gleneagles has some beats along the Strathearn River, which is a very good salmon river, and if you stay at Gleneagles at the right time of year, you can go with a guide and fish the Strathearn for some big salmon.
Is there a particular region of Scotland that you recommend?
The Highlands are spectacular. The biggest mountain in Scotland is Ben Nevis, and you can walk up it. Going through the Highlands and seeing [the village of] Glencoe, understanding the history of the clans, and learning about the Jacobite rebellion and the castles and how William Wallace fought the English—Scotland is probably more famous for that than for its golf.
The Scottish Highlands; the 17th green at Kingsbarns (below).
Family Ties
Kensington Tours’ ancestral journeys bring new meaning to personalized travel.
An exploration of one’s family ancestry can be a profoundly rewarding travel experience. For many Americans, such journeys often lead to the UK—and Scotland in particular. Because each family history is unique, a true exploration into ancestry requires bespoke guidance. Catering to this intricately customized form of travel are Kensington Tours’ Personal Heritage Journeys. Launched in 2021 in partnership with Ancestry.com, the program pairs luxury travel and family heritage specialists to create a comprehensive experience that can never be replicated.
Travelers begin a Personal Heritage Journey by sharing as much of their family history as they
know, so that a genealogist can collaborate with a destination specialist to start crafting an itinerary. Significant family sites and events are linked with local history and culture, all enhanced by private guides who are local to each destination. Genealogists are also available for in-person guidance, and each client dictates the pace of the journey, accommodation choices, and other preferences.
In Scotland, a Personal Heritage Journey might lead family members through the side streets of Edinburgh, the fishing villages of Fife, the castles of the Highlands, or the shipyards of Glasgow. Discoveries and surprises—perhaps a relation to Robert the Bruce?—are guaranteed throughout the journey. —r.b.
ChasingA DRAM
Before golf, there was whisky in Scotland. Here, we present five of our favorite distilleries to visit, each dripping in history, tradition, and golden nectar—and close to great golf courses.
The Aberfeldy Distillery, hidden deep in the Highlands on the southern banks of the River Tay, is the spiritual home of Dewar’s whiskies. In 1787, the bard Robert Burns wrote of wanting to “spend the lightsome days” in Aberfeldy with a particular “bonie lassie.” It has been said that Aberfeldy’s Pitilie Burn—the water source for the distillery—is laced with gold, and Burns wrote of how “the crystal streamlet plays.” The Aberfeldy single malt is called the “Golden Dram” because of its tantalizing, honeyed color.
Aberfeldy was the only distillery built by the Dewar family, in 1898; today, visitors can take in the Pitilie Burn, the distilling process,
an interactive heritage exhibition, and a bar and shop stocked with every single bottle in Dewar’s range. For those so inclined, there is also the opportunity to don a lab coat and create a signature blend in a beautifully antiquated blending room.
The finest accommodation in Aberfeldy awaits at the five-star, nine-bedroom Dun Aluinn, which takes group reservations and sits on five acres of land overlooking the town and the river.
Golfers will enjoy Blairgowrie Golf Club, one of the finest inland golf venues in Scotland, where the famed Rosemount Course was designed by Alister MacKenzie. —r.b.
Aberfeldy
Port Ellen
On the island of Islay, there’s no shortage of distillery experiences to be had. Ten single malt producers are scattered around 130 miles of shoreline, and the majority specialize in peated whisky, a style that has become synonymous with the 239-square-mile island. You can’t go wrong at any of them— so long as you’re a fan of that smoky, maritime flavor—but if you have an appreciation for the history of Scotch whisky and are intrigued by the restoration of a long-shuttered brand, head to Port Ellen Distillery. There, two private tours of varying lengths and prices offer visitors a glimpse behind the scenes, including tastes from a 1979 vintage cask and other exclusive sips.
Conversely, golfers visiting the island won’t be met with much choice. Islay’s only golf course, the Machrie, dates back to the late Victorian era. Recently redesigned by David J. Russell, the classic links features all the architectural details that you would expect—quick-rolling runoff areas, boldly contoured greens, and the occasional blind shot. —s.t.
Lindores Abbey
In terms of Scottish whisky regions, the Kingdom of Fife makes up the northernmost part of the Scottish Lowlands. The area is associated with grain whiskies made from wheat—like a high-strength bourbon—but the Lowlands region also distills an array of excellent whiskies made with malted barley.
Lindores Abbey in Newburgh, Fife, produces both a single-malt whisky and bourbon. The Lindores Distillery was established in 2017, and whisky sales began in 2021, but the abbey ruins date back to the late 12th century. The abbey was the site of the first recorded Scotch distillation, in 1494, when King James IV commissioned the monks to produce a supply of “aqua vitae.”
In addition to producing whisky, the distillery has reinstated orchards and gardens first introduced by the founding Tironensian monks more than 1,000 years ago. The region’s historical monuments extend to golf: Newburgh rests upon the southern banks of the River Tay, with St Andrews just 20 miles away. —r.b.
Springbank
Located far south on Scotland’s Kintyre Peninsula, Campbeltown is three indisputable things: charming, peaceful, and difficult to get to. Those who choose to make the trek (about a three-hour drive from Glasgow) will be rewarded with nuanced whisky and alluring, old-school golf.
Once considered the whisky capital of the world—back when the town was home to almost three dozen distilleries—Campbeltown today features only three production facilities. At Springbank, every step of the whisky-making process is done on-site, including malting the barley, which most other distilleries now outsource. In addition to Springbank, the distillery also produces Hazelburn and Longrow, offering a whisky to suit all tastes.
Options also exist for those who come to Campbeltown chasing par. Machrihanish Golf Club, home to an Old Tom Morris–designed championship layout almost 6,500 yards long, sits along the coast about a 10-minute drive west of town. Spilling over dramatically rumpled terrain, the course stands as one of the purest examples of Scottish links and features an introductory par 4 that Jack Nicklaus once declared the world’s “best opening hole” for its tee shot, which forces players to hit over Machrihanish Bay Beach. Just to the north, Machrihanish Dunes stands as a more modern links design that benefits from the same topography. The handiwork of David McLay Kidd, the 7,000 yards of golf were routed around the land’s natural features with the intent of building a modern course with vintage appeal. “No longer is it a gentle walk in a garden,” McLay Kidd said when the course opened. “It will be a fullfledged mountaineering expedition at this course.” —s.t.
Royal Lochnagar
The most hidden of our recommended distillery visits, Royal Lochnagar sits in tranquil, idyllic isolation in the depths of the Scottish Highlands—just south of the River Dee and a mile from Balmoral Castle, the royal family’s Scottish retreat to which Queen Elizabeth II was particularly devoted.
The Royal Lochnagar Distillery was established in 1845 and received royal approval from Queen Victoria in 1848, after she and Prince Albert enjoyed a visit of their own. It was Victoria and Albert who brought the Balmoral estate into royal ownership in 1852, and they built Balmoral Castle.
A visit to this small haven of Highlands whisky tradition is the perfect complement to a stay at the exquisite Fife Arms Hotel in the nearby village of Braemar. The Fife Arms once welcomed Queen Victoria and held lavish royal balls, and today it combines its Highlands heritage with the very best in 21st-century hospitality. The Fife Arms can arrange golf for hotel residents on the beautifully basic nine-hole course at the Balmoral Estate. Originally reserved for the royal family and household, the course recently started offering limited tee times to the public. —r.b.
The second fairway at Machrihanish Dunes.
Arizona: Where Unforgettable is Always in Play
Right now, you are probably planning your next great golfing excursion. (And if not, it’s time.) Here’s why Arizona should be pin-high on your list. With sun-drenched landscapes and jaw-dropping scenery, the Grand Canyon State offers some of the most spectacular golf experiences in the
world. Play through towering saguaros in Scottsdale, navigate fairways framed by Tucson’s dramatic rock formations, or take on championship courses carved into desert canyons. No matter your skill level, Arizona’s diverse terrain delivers a round unlike any other.
TPC Scottsdale (Stadium Course):
This legendary course delivers tour-level play with its famous 16th hole “Coliseum” experience.
Mountain Shadows (Short Course):
A par-3 gem casual players will love offering dramatic mountain views and a fun, fast round.
Grayhawk Golf Club (Raptor Course):
Test your skills at a Tom Fazio-designed masterpiece featuring rolling fairways and deep bunkers.
Ventana Canyon Golf Club (Mountain Course):
Nestled in the Santa Catalina foothills, this course features an iconic par-3 3rd hole framed by a canyon wall.
Made famous by the movie Tin
you can recreate the famous water hole scene on the actual hole where it was filmed.
Tubac Golf Resort & Spa:
Cup,
Photo: Jacob Sjöman
THE EUROPEAN GRAND TOUR
Eevery summer, planeloads of American golfers make the pilgrimage to the hallowed grounds of Scotland, Ireland, and England. Far fewer dedicate a trip to exploring the many fine golf courses on the European mainland. Those who do discover a truth that many British Isles–based golfers have long known: Several of the world’s best golf resorts are in Continental Europe. From Tuscany to the Alps, Andalusia to the Arctic Circle, the nine resorts highlighted here are all worthy of a trip in their own right. Even better, they can be linked together in part or whole for an ultimate golfer’s grand tour of Europe.
CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
—Montalcino, Italy
don’t be alarmed if you hear the pop pop of a hunter’s rifle during your round at the Club at Castiglion del Bosco. The oak-forested hills surrounding this Tom Weiskopf–designed golf course harbor pheasants, deer, and cinghiali—any of which you might find on the evening’s menu at Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco’s Michelin two-star restaurant. In the break between golf and dinner, you can sample Brunellos at the estate’s winery, lounge by one of the Tibetan-stone swimming pools, scale cypress-lined steps to the ruins of a 12th-century castle, or retreat to your Val d’Orcia–view villa. La dolce vita, indeed.
The fashion scion Massimo Ferragamo and his wife, Chiara, led the transformation of this 900-year-old estate into a resort that is every bit as enchanting as an Italian luxury house’s creation in Tuscany should be. Set outside the town of Montalcino, the property is anchored by the
Rosewood hotel, with 42 suites, 11 historic farmhouse villas, and the fine-dining venue Campo del Drago, which earned its second Michelin star last fall. Predating the hotel is the Castiglion del Bosco winery, one of the founding members of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino.
Taken as a whole, the 5,000-acre estate is the embodiment of the Tuscan fantasy, albeit with a twist: a first-class golf course. Though not known for golf, Tuscany is made for it. Sweeping valleys, hillside vineyards, cypress-studded ridges—Weiskopf wisely embraced the estate’s topographical traits with a lighttouch layout that flows naturally through the iconic landscape. Formidable from the tips at 7,187 yards, the course is far more forgiving from the sub-6,000-yard whites, which offer an appropriately leisurely take on golf in Tuscany.
Billed as the only private course in Italy, the Club at Castiglion del Bosco is open to members and hotel guests and hosts just 4,000 rounds per year. The sweet life, after all, is only for a fortunate few.
bruce wallin
Historic and idyllic, Tuscany’s 5,000-acre Castiglion del Bosco estate includes a Rosewood resort (top left) and a Tom Weiskopf golf course (above and previous spread).
Photo: Jacob Sjöman
PRAIA D’EL REY —Óbidos, Portugal
portugal’s silver coast, which faces west toward the Atlantic, has emerged as the country’s second coming in golf, following the long-term success of the Algarve in the country’s far south. Setting the benchmark for golf development on the Silver Coast is Praia D’El Rey, home to a stunning championship course designed by Cabell B. Robinson.
Here, golf is defined by the shoreline to the west (with views of the nearby Berlengas Islands) and the beautifully preserved pine forests to the east, with Praia D’El Rey perfectly merging the sandy dunes and woodlands into a single golf adventure. The persistent Atlantic breezes keep golfers guessing with shot selection, while providing a refreshing relief from the intense summer heat of Europe’s southern reaches.
Robinson was the unsung hero of the European operations of Robert Trent Jones Sr. for two decades, until he went solo in 1987. Praia D’El Rey opened 10 years later and helped to establish the Washington, D.C.–born Robinson as one of the finest designers in Europe. He said of Praia D’El Rey, “This is the kind of landscape we architects try to create, but at Praia D’El Rey it’s all here, naturally. Now it’s my responsibility to protect it.”
Visitors to the Silver Coast can enjoy a fourcourse golf package, which includes rounds at Praia D’El Rey, West Cliffs Resort, Royal Óbidos, and Guardian Bom Sucesso—all located within a six-mile radius. Also recommended is a visit to the nearby medieval, whitewashed town of Óbidos. To cap off an evening meal, try the legendary Ginjinha de Óbidos—a sour cherry brandy traditionally served in a small chocolate cup. —robin barwick
The Cabell B. Robinson–designed championship course at Praia D’El Rey. The resort is leading sustainable golf development on the Silver Coast.
COSTA NAVARINO
—Pylos, Greece
you may see Costa Navarino referred to as a luxury golf resort, but that doesn’t do it justice. Set on the southwestern tip of mainland Greece, the property comprises four resorts—the Westin, the Romanos, the W, and the Mandarin Oriental—which are spread out across 2,471 acres. Simply put, Costa Navarino is a destination, and when it comes to golf, it’s a pivotal one. Unlike Spain or Portugal, where hundreds of courses welcome golfers throughout the year, Greece is home to just nine 18-hole layouts. Four of those courses—arguably the country’s best—belong to Costa Navarino.
It all began with the Dunes Course, built 15 years ago through a collaboration between European Golf Design and two-time Masters champion Bernhard Langer. The seaside routing brings a links feel to the
Grecian coast with large undulating greens and steep-faced pot bunkers. Set higher on the bluff, two newer courses—Navarino Hills and the International Olympic Academy Golf Course— are the handiwork of José María Olazábal. Vast and sweeping across the ridgeline, these courses are buffeted by the wind and will appeal to golf architecture enthusiasts. It’s Robert Trent Jones II’s Bay Course, however, that tugs strongest at our heartstrings. Generously wide fairways, modest length, unparalleled scenic beauty, and a routing that traverses three distinct environments all combine to create a truly memorable round of golf.
Much like Costa Navarino’s golf courses, each of its four hotels offers a unique experience that appeals to different sensibilities. The newest and most luxurious is the Mandarin Oriental, where 99 suites and villas are built into the hillside and provide views of the Mediterranean, along with glimpses of the Bay Course. —shaun tolson
Spread across more than 2,400 acres, Costa Navarino has four championship-caliber golf courses, including Navarino Hills (above), a José María Olazábal design that plays high atop a ridgeline and offers dramatic vistas.
Golf courses do not have to fit into what is normally expected.”
The eco-friendly Nordic lodges at Lofoten are made largely from locally sourced timber. That is how life rolls on the Lofoten Islands; the choice for anything produced off the islands is limited, and visitors enjoy the chance to put normal life on hold.
LOFOTEN LINKS
—Lofoten Islands, Norway
visiting lofoten links is like playing golf in a parallel universe—at least as far as us Earth dwellers can tell. “It is a very different experience from anywhere else in the world,” says renowned golf photographer Jacob Sjöman (see his profile on page 114). “Golf courses do not have to fit into what is normally expected.”
There is nothing normal at Lofoten. The water surrounding the Lofoten Islands—located off the coast of northern Norway and above the Arctic Circle—is completely clear, so when stray shots enter the sea, golfers can watch their lost balls sink with better clarity than anywhere else in the world. In summer, the sky never darkens, allowing for midnight tee times. In fall, as daylight begins to fade, the northern lights regularly illuminate the night sky with artistry and vivid neon tones.
The world’s northernmost links-style golf course is open from May until mid-October, with 24-hour daylight from mid-May until late July. The Norwegian Sea comes into play on many holes, but when it is out of range, rugged rocks and sandy beaches invariably enter the golfer’s line of sight. At 6,662 yards from the tips, the course is not terribly long by today’s championship standards, but success here is entirely dependent on keeping shots on the fairways and greens. The landscape is incredible—but not necessarily kind.
Accommodations are appropriately set in a cluster of traditional, no-frills Nordic lodges. For dining, Restaurant Låven offers a cozy, rustic setting in a converted barn and serves meals throughout the day, all crafted from local produce—which, in these remote parts, almost goes without saying. —r.b.
Photo: Jacob Sjöman
CAMIRAL GOLF & WELLNESS
—Girona, Spain
though it is yet to be confirmed, the smart money is on the Ryder Cup heading to Spain in 2031, following the European Tour’s partnership with Camiral Golf & Wellness, a premier resort located just outside Girona on the country’s stunning Costa Brava.
Opened in 1999, Camiral’s Stadium Course— previously known as PGA Catalunya—has regularly hosted the Open d’España and the European Tour’s Qualifying School. The resort’s Tour Course is maintained to the same world-class conditions yet offers a slightly gentler and more forgiving proposition. This is arguably Spain’s finest 36-hole destination, with tour-level practice facilities and a golf academy to match. Following a $1 million golf course refurbishment in 2022, water usage on the Stadium Course was cut by 35 percent, setting a sustainability benchmark that other resorts in Spain and across Southern Europe should aspire to.
The Camiral property rolls along the pine-forested foothills of the Pyrenees, and its hub is the beautifully appointed five-star Hotel Camiral, which is a model of understated, Catalan sophistication, created by local designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán. Though the resort is built near the ancient Roman road of Via Augusta (Camiral is Catalan for “Royal Road”), Camiral is a masterpiece of contemporary planning, modernist architecture, and timeless course design. —r.b.
The 13th hole on Camiral’s tight and demanding Stadium Course, which has quickly established its own heritage on the DP World Tour. The Ryder Cup could be next.
TERRE BLANCHE
—Provence, France
hidden in a forest deep in the hills of Provence, the Terre Blanche resort is a fusion of all the qualities synonymous with the South of France. Understated, sophisticated French chic pervades everything here, yet it is also très naturel and at one with its precious landscape, which is just 35 miles from the Nice airport.
The original James Bond, Sean Connery, tried to establish a golf and real estate development here in the 1970s and ’80s, with Jack Nicklaus flown in to design 36 holes. Connery’s ambitious plans were undone by poor planning and a real estate crash in 1990, leading him to abandon the project. German businessman Dietmar Hopp, co-founder of SAP, bought the 750-acre estate, hired course designer Dave Thomas, and developed a more eco-friendly plan that was low in construction density and high in quality.
The tour-level Le Château golf course opened in 2004 and extends to 7,235 yards, while its “little brother,” Le Riou, runs to 6,567 yards. Both are immaculate, with Le Riou offering slightly smaller greens, more twists and turns, and greater changes of elevation. Le Riou is reserved for club members and hotel guests, with a fantastic variety of holes that wind through verdant woods. The shorter— but by no means inferior—of the two courses, Le Riou is an escape into golf tranquility, just as its creators intended.
Complementing the golf courses is an expansive golf academy and driving range, with every provision
that a golf grafter could wish for. The resort’s villas and suites—which are dotted around lush and fragrant subtropical gardens—are built from locally sourced terra-cotta. Provençal white stone was used in most of Terre Blanche’s beautifully appointed restaurants, clubhouse, and spa.
The Michelin-starred Le Faventia is an essential element of the Terre Blanche experience, especially the extraordinary journey that is Sentiers Méditerranéens (Mediterranean Trails), a six-course tasting menu created by executive chef Quentin André and his team. Locally sourced ingredients and tradition are given fresh verve, with dishes that might include braised oyster mushrooms in a creamy sauce with juniper pesto or Provençal lamb with preserved sweet potatoes.
Before sitting down to a meal, enjoy the perfect apéritif in the sanctuary of the Terre Blanche cellar, with a wine tasting led by the ebullient head
sommelier Aurélie Deharbe. Provençal Deharbe is a rising star of French wine and has created an awardwinning list for Le Faventia and its excellent sister restaurant next door, Le Gaudina.
With golf, spa treatments, and evening dinners to cap days spent in the South of France’s sunshine, Terre Blanche casts a wondrous spell. If you choose to extend your scope, try a tour and tasting at nearby Château d’Esclans, the winery that is home to Whispering Angel rosé and is largely responsible for the growing popularity of Provençal rosé wines in recent years.
Connery, a man devoted to both golf and the French Riviera, must have had mixed feelings about Terre Blanche. His failed project surely came at an enormous personal cost—beyond the mere financial loss—yet ultimately, his French ruin became the foundation for one of the world’s great golf destinations. —r.b.
fast greens, broad bunkers of white sand, untouched woodland, ravines, and spectacular water
Le Château at Terre Blanche boasts expansive and
features. Opposite top: The resort’s Michelinstarred Le Faventia.
TAKING CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF TO NEW HEIGHTS
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FINCA CORTESIN
—Casares, Spain
upon arrival at Finca Cortesin in Spain’s Costa del Sol, resort guests will quickly discover that things are not as they seem. Modeled after a palatial country house for nobility, the 67-room hotel is a fascinating dichotomy of old and new. Sleek modernity permeates the boutique property’s gathering spaces, restaurants, and spa, while decorative accents—from artwork and antiques to massive wooden doors dating back centuries—counterbalance the newness of the hotel’s construction, infusing it with a sense of Spanish history.
The championship golf course is no less beguiling. Conceived by Cabell B. Robinson in 2006, it stretches beyond 7,400 yards from the tips and introduces sequences of holes that require strategic maneuvering from tee to green. Depending on the course’s daily setup, golfers may take less club on the drivable par-4 fourth than on the long, gradually uphill par-3 sixth. They’ll face the occasional blind shot during their round, and they’re certain to feel squeezed now and then, as the perimeters of most playing corridors are lined with dense vegetation that feasts on golf balls hit off line.
“The course is going to bite you, but it’s not a beast,” asserts José “Nacho” Ignacio Olea Zorita, Finca Cortesin’s director of golf. Maulings can occur, however, for those who tend to spray their tee shots or their approaches. As such, the course is aptly suited for match play, which helps explain why it hosted the Solheim Cup two years ago. —s.t.
Recently redesigned, Verdura’s East Links course now sports a pair of holes that play along the Mediterranean Sea.
VERDURA —Sciacca,
Italy
you might associate Sicily with cuisine, sea, sun, and ancient history—but probably not with golf. True to form, Verdura—a 570-acre Rocco Forte resort with more than 200 rooms, suites, and villas designed by the celebrated Italian architect Flavio Albanese— showcases the Italian island’s famed cultural and geographical attributes. But it also delivers world-class golf that, ironically, improved significantly following a rare and highly damaging flood and landslide in 2018.
The resort’s original courses were built in 2009 by Kyle Phillips, an architect who burst onto the scene nine years earlier with the design of Kingsbarns Golf Links in Scotland. The two layouts were routed in such a way that they intertwined, which meant that they were remarkably similar in look and playability. Following the flood, Phillips returned to rebuild and redesign both courses, and the layouts that emerged boast unique personalities.
The West Shore, comprising the 18 original holes least affected by the disaster, features bold contours that give it a more muscular look and feel. By contrast, the East Links’ terrain is more subtle and softer in appearance—and the course now includes a pair of holes that play along the shores of the Mediterranean. —s.t.
The elegant pool at Finca Cortesin, where guests can unwind after playing a round on the boutique resort’s dynamic golf course—the site of the 2023 Solheim Cup.
EVIAN RESORT
—Évian-les-Bains, France
on both its French and Swiss shores, Lake Geneva has long served as an Alpine retreat for those seeking clean, crisp air and restorative time in the mountains. The French side holds a particular allure for golfers, thanks to a championship-caliber course that has hosted the Amundi Evian Championship, a major on the LPGA Tour, for more than 30 years.
The Evian Resort Golf Club, which began as a nine-hole routing created by Willie Park Jr. in 1904, has been modernized over the years, first by Cabell B. Robinson and then, more recently, by Dave Sampson, who earned some notoriety with his redesign of the Marco Simone Golf & Country Club layout ahead of the 2023 Ryder Cup. Stairstepping its way along a hillside that tumbles toward the shoreline, the idyllic
track retains a fair amount of its turn-of-the-20thcentury charm. Equally appealing, the course was routed over 148 acres in such a way that every hole offers a picturesque view of the lake.
Away from the golf club, the resort spans nearly 100 additional acres and includes multiple hotels, each offering a distinct ambience and catering to different preferences. Those seeking an immersive golf holiday will be attracted to Le Manoir du Golf, a converted eight-room private residence built in 1911, located next to Evian’s golf academy. The most discerning travelers, however, will likely be drawn to Hôtel Royal, which was constructed to honor King Edward VII and inaugurated in 1909. Whether staying in one of the hotel’s 118 rooms or 32 suites, guests enjoy striking views of the lake and a variety of refined restaurants and bars, including Les Fresques, a Michelin-starred restaurant that celebrates the region’s seasonal produce. —s.t.
Designed and built by Willie Park Jr. in 1904, Evian Resort’s golf course affords picturesque views of Lake Geneva.
HIDDEN Treasures
From Apes Hill to the Green Monkey, Barbados might just be the Caribbean’s best underrated golf destination.
by SHAUN TOLSON
Walking off the green on the 12th hole at Apes Hill—a stunning drop-shot par 3 that plays as long as 225 yards—my playing partner, Jody Addison, the club’s affable director of golf, catches me by surprise.
“Bring an extra ball,” he tells me, flashing a mischievous smile before starting toward the next tee.
I rummage through my bag to find a beat-up Pro V1 or one of the balls that I discovered on the jungle periphery when I played the course by myself the day before. I locate one of each and bring both—something tells me this may be the last time I see either of them.
We’re nearing 1,000 feet above sea level, the highest point on the property—and the highest point on the entire island of Barbados. The trade winds that were blowing hard in our faces on the previous hole are now crossing from the left.
“I don’t know how you played this hole yesterday,” Addison begins, “but see those bearded fig trees on the left? If you hit your drive over the center of them, the wind will bring your ball back into the fairway.”
As a gesture of good faith, possibly because I’ve done a poor job concealing my skepticism, Addison tees off first. True to his word, he clears the middle portion of the trees, and his ball drifts back to the short grass. I take a similar line but pull my drive slightly, and it quickly becomes evident that the wind’s not that strong.
“Try it again,” Addison encourages me. My next attempt follows the proper line, and the ball lands along the left edge of the fairway.
When I played the hole the day before, I never considered this tactic. The fairway is wide enough that any drive starting down the left, even those well inside the trees, should still land safely. Conversely, a slight draw hit down the middle will be held up by the wind and land near the center stripe. This I learned from experience.
Addison’s line, however, has historical precedent. Prior to an aggressive course renovation led by Ron Kirby in 2020, the tee shot was the only way most members and guests could play the hole. The jungle encroached so far on the right that it would swallow just about any other drive. What’s more, the bailout area that now exists to the right of the green—a plot of short grass that looks like it has to be there—didn’t exist. Before the revamp, approach shots needed to be so precise that many members just picked up from the fairway and moved on to the 14th hole. As Addison recalls, they wouldn’t even attempt the shot.
The 13th hole at Apes Hill
HIDDEN TREASURES
“Anyone who sliced the ball—or even hit a bit of a fade—was just donating a golf ball to the wilderness,” he says.
The 13th hole is one of the more extreme examples of Kirby’s changes, but the entire course benefited. “In the new design, we’ve exposed the natural assets—the rock formations, the views,” Addison says, adding that, in many cases, fairways were widened as playing corridors expanded. “We’ve exposed it and made it part of the experience.”
The renovation followed Apes Hill’s acquisition by Canadian businessman Glenn Chamandy in 2019. Chamandy’s investments in the club have also included a new nine-hole short course where golfers can play barefoot if they choose.
Prior to its acquisition, Apes Hill operated as a semiprivate club. It’s far more exclusive these days. Most rounds are reserved for members who have purchased real estate—such is the only way to gain membership. However, the club also doubles as a boutique resort, where guests can book stays in a variety of villas that owners make available through a rental pool.
The Apes Hill staff can arrange rounds for guests on some of the other courses sprinkled throughout Barbados. In fact, they encourage golfers staying at Apes Hill to do just that. “We don’t want you to play here all the time necessarily,” Addison says. “We want you to see the island and experience the other courses because they’re strong.”
Visitors can tee up at Royal Westmoreland Golf & Country Club, a Robert Trent Jones II design located just 15 minutes from Apes Hill. Here, almost a third of the holes
show evidence of the site’s former existence as a quarry (which provided much of the stone used to build the island’s roadways). The 7,045-yard course features a collection of par 3s that rank among the finest one-shotters in the world, and yet, it’s the course’s par-4 sixth that leaves the most indelible impression. On the moderately long, sharp dogleg right, golfers must hit drives to an elevated fairway flanked by an expansive limestone cliff face along its back edge. Once they reach the fairway, they encounter an even more compelling sight—a small green tucked within an amphitheater of exposed limestone.
Royal Westmoreland’s debut in 1995 put Barbados on the map for many golfers, but the island’s allure grew exponentially in the early 2000s when the luxurious Sandy Lane resort reopened its doors after an extensive renovation. Set at the edge of a crescent-shaped beach about a quarter-mile long, the 113-room property took three years to rebuild. Not long after its debut, the resort made worldwide headlines when word spread that Tiger Woods and Elin Nordegren had selected Sandy Lane as the setting for their 2004 wedding.
The resort’s two championship-caliber golf courses are the work of Tom Fazio. The Country Club, which opened in 2001, plays over exposed land with a smattering of small pot bunkers arranged in clusters. It offers wide playing corridors to account for winds that senior design associate Tom Marzolf says are “always blowing.”
When Fazio and his team returned to the island to build the resort’s second course, the uber-exclusive Green Monkey, they arrived with a vast budget ($27 million) at their disposal and the directive to create something spectacular. The design team focused most of its efforts on carving out sweeping fairways, shaping dynamic greens, and installing Fazio’s trademark bunkers. But they also invested heavily in exposing the rock outcroppings that marked the course’s past as a limestone quarry. “It’s very bold terrain,” Marzolf says, “and we created [more] boldness by exposing those quarry walls.”
Much like Apes Hill, the Green Monkey, which opened in 2004, is accessible only to Sandy Lane members and guests. Tee times are available to guests from 8:30 a.m. to 10:00 a.m., but the resort also makes one daily foursome slot available to outsiders—albeit with a steep price tag of $4,250. Those who book Sandy Lane’s Laughing Waters, a 32,000-square-foot, 12-bedroom villa (starting at $17,500 per night with a one-week minimum), also have access to the course.
The Green Monkey’s exclusivity might suggest that it is leaps-and-bounds better than the Country Club course, but Sandy Lane’s director of golf, Elvis Medford, dispels such a notion. “The quality of the playing surfaces on the Country Club course is just as good as on the Green Monkey,” he says. “What makes the difference is just the layout of the course
and the land that they had available. The signature holes on the Green Monkey play in and around very large quarry features—probably the largest quarry feature you’ll find on any golf course in the world. So it’s very scenic. You have some drops that are over 100 feet, plus it’s longer and more exposed to the elements, so it’s windier and much tougher.”
An authentic and far more affordable round of golf exists at Barbados Golf Club. A Ron Kirby design that opened in 2000, the 6,649-yard course serves as a playground for locals.
The locals, of course, are a huge part of the appeal of a golf trip to this 166-square-mile island. Welcoming and friendly, Barbadians proudly honor the culture, history, and geography of the island, where the east and west coasts are as distinctive as the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.
A visit to this independent British Commonwealth nation is perhaps best summed up by Addison, who was born and raised in Scotland, worked in England, relocated to the Maldives, and then spent several years as a teaching pro in Melbourne, Australia. “It’s good. It’s honest,” he says of his new home. “And it’s fun.”
Sandy Lane’s Monkey Club (above) and spa (right). Top: The Green Monkey’s iconic bunker.
Opposite: Hilltop villa at Apes Hill.
pride & glory
Bethpage Black’s 11th hole (this page) and Rees Jones at the course just before the U.S. Open in 2009.
As golf’s most impassioned team event returns to American soil this September, we’re celebrating all things Ryder Cup, from memorable individual accomplishments to this year’s host course, where raucous galleries—and a distinct home-field advantage—are expected.
fade to black
Rees Jones gives us an inside look at the Ryder Cup host course and the pivotal holes where matches might swing.
Bethpage Black has hosted three major championships since 2002, and the winners’ final scores have never eclipsed double digits in the red. “You have to manage your game around Bethpage,” says Rees Jones, the architect who has steadily renovated the infamously challenging course over the past two decades.
Still, the Bethpage Black that we’ll see during the forthcoming Ryder Cup may play differently than it has in the past. Call it the Match-Play Effect. The golfers are still playing the course, but they’re also playing directly against their opponent(s). A triple bogey in the U.S. Open can be calamitous, but in the Ryder Cup, it only amounts to losing a hole. So we can expect to see more aggressive shots, especially right out of the gate.
The first tee will be positioned farther left to make room for a massive grandstand that will be erected near the teeing grounds. That adjustment will change the angle of the hole just enough that some of the longer hitters may take a crack at covering the cluster of trees that tower along the right side. “I think Rory will. I think Bryson will,” says Jones. “It’s a narrow entrance to the green, but the rough around the green is not severe, so that’s a change that is going to benefit the long hitters.”
The pivotal holes, Jones believes, will be 10, 11, and 12—a trio of par 4s that places a premium on accuracy. (Two of the holes are also notoriously long.) “This is where the course starts flexing its muscle,” Jones says. The 10th hole will live in infamy as a par 4 with a fairway that, during the 2002 U.S. Open, many players couldn’t reach. “You can’t miss the fairway [on 10] and hope to make a good score,” he says.
The 11th, although significantly shorter than the holes that bookend it, is still a stern test that presents “a demanding drive.” The green, which slopes notably from back to front, was reworked prior to the 2019 PGA Championship to accommodate a new hole location in the back left section. But hitting the green here is paramount—and missing long is a death sentence. “Pitching back downhill,” Jones says, “it will be nearly impossible to stop the ball.”
Hole 12 presents a similarly demanding tee shot, but the approach is arguably more testing, as Jones moved the cavernous greenside bunkers closer to the putting surface. In particular, he preserved A. W. Tillinghast’s architectural style for these traps, meaning that, in certain areas, the green slopes away from their collars. Being short-sided in one of these bunkers makes an up and down unlikely.
It goes without saying that the final few holes will be pivotal if matches last that long, particularly the 15th, a par 4 that played as long as 484 yards during the 2019 PGA Championship. “It’s probably the hardest hole because its green is the most severe and the most elevated on the course,” Jones says. “Today’s players don’t release the ball much to the hole, so if the pin is in the back left, they’re going to take the chance of going over. If a match is tight, that’s going to be the most thought-provoking second shot on the golf course.”
shaun tolson
honorable mentions
The beauty of the Ryder Cup is its teamfirst nature. With that, however, remarkable performances—and sometimes incredible shots—can be forgotten over time. Here, we celebrate some of the most spectacular accomplishments since the Ryder Cup became a United States versus Europe affair.
Seve Ballesteros Channels His Inner Escape Artist in 1983
The Champion golf course at PGA National Resort hosted the 1983 Ryder Cup only two years after opening for play. Because the event occurred before the advent of comprehensive television coverage, most golf fans never saw Seve Ballesteros’s remarkable recovery from the left
fairway bunker on the par-5 18th during his singles match against Fuzzy Zoeller. Wielding a Toney Penna persimmon 3-wood—and having to contend with a six-foot-high lip that loomed over him only five or six paces away—the Houdini-like Spaniard took a mighty lash at his ball, launching a high-arcing cut that just cleared the bunker and ultimately came to rest at the front edge of the green. When asked to describe the feat, American team captain Jack Nicklaus had only this to say: “The greatest shot I ever saw.”
Bryson DeChambeau Hits One for the Ages in Wisconsin
The week after the 2021 Ryder Cup at Whistling Straits, Bryson DeChambeau was headed to Mesquite, Nevada, to compete in the Professional Long Drivers Association’s World Championships. But watching his pre-shot routine on the tee box of the 603-yard, par-5 fifth hole during the Friday afternoon fourball matches, you would have thought he was already there. Taking aim at least 30 degrees right of the opening stretch of fairway, DeChambeau unleashed a mammoth tee shot to cut the corner of the dogleg. The result? A 417-yard drive (as the crow flies) that left him a knockdown wedge to the green. DeChambeau’s eagle squared the match against Jon Rahm and Tyrrell Hatton, and you could argue it was the first of many haymakers that ultimately rendered the event a TKO for the Americans.
The greatest shot I ever saw.”
—JACK NICKLAUS
Ian Poulter Cards Five Straight Birdies in 2012
Whether you call it the Miracle at Medinah or the Meltdown, depending on your allegiances, the European team’s unlikely comeback in 2012 was ignited on Saturday afternoon when Ian Poulter and then–World No. 1 Rory McIlroy took on Jason Dufner and Zach Johnson in a fourball match. At the time, Europe was trailing 10 to 4, and when this match reached the 13th tee box, Poulter and McIlroy were down two. Shortly thereafter, Poulter, a captain’s pick, made José María Olazábal look like a genius as he rattled off five consecutive birdies—a blend of clutch putting and wizard-like bunker play. By the end of that second day, a European victory still seemed like a long shot, but Poulter had given the team some momentum heading into the singles matches. The rest, as they say, is history.
Seve Ballesteros’s clutch 3-wood in 1983 (left). Ben Crenshaw putting with a 1-iron in 1987 (above).
Gentle Ben Goes the Distance Against Eamonn Darcy with a 1-Iron
There’s a popular joke that even God can’t hit a 1-iron, but 38 years ago, Ben Crenshaw proved he could deftly putt with one. By the sixth hole of his singles match with Eamonn Darcy at Muirfield Village in 1987, Crenshaw—then 35 years old—was frustrated with his performance on the greens, and his putter took the brunt of it. It’s hard to imagine now, but the soft-spoken, amiable Austin native of today had a temper in his youth that could run as hot as the summertime pavement in Texas. After snapping his flat stick in half, Crenshaw had to rely on a 1-iron, but he wielded the club admirably on the greens, taking his match against Darcy to the 18th hole. —s.t.
booing their own mothers
The Bethpage atmosphere will be steaming when New York welcomes the Ryder Cup for the first time in 30 years. “Those fans are out of their minds,” Irish broadcaster David Feherty said recently about New York golf enthusiasts.
Bethpage Black was the first municipal course to host the U.S. Open, in 2002, when Johnette Howard reported in the local Newsday, “A New York sports fan will boo his own mother if she burns the breakfast toast.”
Scotsman Colin Montgomerie was among Europe’s contenders at the time and was regularly targeted by hecklers. Golf Digest gave out 25,000 “Be Nice to Monty” pins at Bethpage, which succeeded in deflecting some of the abuse: Rather than harassing Monty, the fans heckled the badge-wearers instead.
In the event, Monty played poorly. He was on his way to missing the halfway cut when one fan shouted, “Hey, Monty! I’ve got Mets tickets for Sunday!”
Our advice for Luke Donald: Don’t forget to pack the team earplugs! —robin barwick
The
Captain’s Room
Entering the clubhouse at Georgia’s East Lake Golf Club, it’s immediately clear that this is the house that Bobby Jones built. Throughout the Tudor-style mansion, several hundred pieces of memorabilia, ephemera, photographs, and artifacts—including four replica trophies from Jones’s Grand Slam in 1930—chronicle the life and sporting accomplishments of the celebrated amateur golfer.
Look to the right as you enter the clubhouse, however, and you’ll see a small meeting space tucked into an alcove, its white door stenciled with “The Captain’s Room.” Inside, dark mahogany-paneled walls and glass-enclosed display cases prominently showcase photographs and artifacts from the 1963 Ryder Cup that was contested at the club. More specifically, the objects celebrate Arnold Palmer, who served as the American squad’s playing captain, the last Ryder Cup captain to also compete as a player.
“ ‘Golf with a purpose’ is a phrase that we take to heart,” says Chad Parker, East Lake’s president and general manager, “and that means displaying Mr. Palmer’s memorabilia in a historical fashion and in the place where he won it.”
Many of the significant pieces are on loan through the Arnie’s Army Charitable Foundation, including Palmer’s Ryder Cup golf bag, which serves as the collection’s crown jewel. “It’s the most visually impactful,” Parker says. “When you’re telling someone that he was the playing captain and that this is the bag he used, it immediately resonates. It’s part of history.”
“To the end of his life, Mr. Palmer had three logos on his golf bag: his personal logo—the famous multicolored umbrella—his equipment manufacturer, and ‘Ryder Cup Captain’,” says golf historian David Normoyle, who curated the collection. “East Lake Golf Club is where that connection began in 1963.” —s.t.
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Ludvig Åberg was flying high when he secured his first professional win at the 2023 Omega European Masters.
After four years at Texas Tech, Ludvig Åberg entered professional golf with all guns blazing. The rising PGA Tour star spoke to Robin Barwick about his rapid ascent into the Ryder Cup record books.
Ludvig Åberg turned professional in June 2023, shortly after winning his second straight Big 12 individual title at Texas Tech. The young Swede had held the No. 1 spot in the World Amateur Golf Ranking for 29 weeks and was the first-ever recipient of a PGA Tour card via the PGA Tour University program. That July, he was paired with European Ryder Cup captain Luke Donald for the first two rounds of the Rocket Mortgage Classic at Detroit Golf Club. It was as if Åberg was being swept away in a whirlwind, yet the impressively calm and measured rookie, 23 years old at the time, kept his stance firmly planted on the ground.
That pairing in Detroit was no coincidence. With the Ryder Cup two months away, Donald had six picks to contemplate, and Åberg was the hottest European prospect to emerge from the college circuit since Spain’s Jon Rahm in 2016. A combination of seasoned experience and fearless youth is the perfect blend in a 12-man Ryder Cup team, and Donald had heard that this six-foot-three-inch college champ swung the club like Adam Scott, drove the ball like Rory McIlroy, and had the temperament of Scottie Scheffler. As Greg Sands, Åberg’s coach at Texas Tech, put it, “God put together the perfect human being for golf.”
“He was nine under through 16 holes,” recalled Donald of their first round together, when he announced his 2023 Ryder Cup team at the beginning of September that year.
An Englishman who played on four European Ryder Cup teams—on the winning side every time—Donald was preparing for his first crack at captaincy during that round in Detroit. Now, two years after European victory in Rome, he is winding up for a return leg at Bethpage State Park, on Long Island, New York, this September.
“Ludvig made golf look very simple,” he added. “Pretty impressive when he knew I was watching him. He seemed to be very unfazed. When you play with certain players, you can tell. They have a certain talent that you see when they hit golf balls, and you’re blown away, just by the different strike, the sound, the trajectory.”
Åberg shot 65 and 67 paired with Donald over those first two rounds in Detroit. A long shot before those 36 holes, Åberg was now on the short list.
“In the first round in Detroit, I was playing well,” Åberg recalls in an exclusive interview with Kingdom. “Luke and his stats team—with Dodo [Edoardo] and Francesco Molinari—found out that driving the golf ball really well had a big correlation with success at Marco Simone, and my driver stats at that point were really good. I was driving the golf ball very well in Detroit, so that was at the front of Luke’s mind.”
Åberg is coached by fellow Swede Hans Larsson, a partnership that dates back to Åberg’s high school years at Riksidrottsgymnasium Helsingborg, a prestigious boarding
I really wanted to win a tournament, so I could have that on my résumé if I did play in the Ryder Cup.”
school for elite athletes in southern Sweden. For his final two seasons at Texas Tech, he agreed with Larsson that he would be as aggressive as possible with the driver off the tee, to take full advantage of one of his strongest assets. Unbeknownst to the pair at the time, this was exactly what Donald wanted for Marco Simone.
“Thinking back to that summer, I didn’t really have my eyes on the Ryder Cup,” says Åberg, who played four full seasons at Texas Tech. “I felt like it was too far away. All I wanted to do was kickstart my professional career and see where it took me. When I played with Luke in Detroit, that was the first time I had ever spoken to him. Then Luke texted me to say that he would love me to come over to Europe to play in a couple of events, and I got very excited.”
That excitement led to success. “I played in the Czech Masters and finished pretty well [T4], and then the week after was the Omega European Masters in Crans, and that was the first week when I really started to think about the Ryder Cup,” Åberg recalls. “The media attention and chatter started around then, about me possibly making the team, and I really wanted to win a tournament, so I could have that on my résumé if I did play in the Ryder Cup. That was a big carrot for me.”
Donald was due to announce his six Ryder Cup team picks the day after the European Masters, and in CransMontana, high in the Swiss Alps, the chatter around Åberg grew exponentially, particularly after a first round of 64, six under par. A second round of 67 was Åberg’s highest 18-hole score of the week, and ultimately, a run of four birdies on
Åberg with the Genesis Invitational trophy earlier this year; playing to the final green at the 2023 Omega European Masters; and delighting the Augusta National patrons with a runner-up finish in his Masters debut in 2024.
Clockwise from left:
the back nine in the final round saw the rookie claim his first professional win by two shots.
“In Crans, Ludvig stepped up when he needed to,” enthused Donald. “Ludvig birdied four of his last five holes to win. That was very impressive.”
Irishman Paul McGinley played on three European Ryder Cup teams—and, like Donald, he was on the winning side every time—before captaining his team to victory at Gleneagles in 2014. “You get talent coming out on tour all the time, but can they do it under real pressure?” McGinley said on the High Performance podcast ahead of the 2023 Ryder Cup. “Playing with the Ryder Cup captain, under pressure, Ludvig performed. Then in Switzerland, Ludvig knew he had to do something special to get picked, and again, he performed. There’s the talent and there’s the ability to perform under pressure,
and they are two different things, and when a golfer can blend those two things together, like Ludvig can, that is something special.”
The morning after winning his first professional title, Åberg was called up to the Ryder Cup team. Just three months after turning pro, he set a record as the fastest golfer to be selected for the Ryder Cup after joining the pro ranks. Additionally, Åberg became the first player ever to compete in the Ryder Cup before teeing up in a major.
Former Ryder Cup player and fellow Swede Peter Hanson helps promising players through the Swedish Golf Federation—and he saw Åberg evolve. “The more you shine the light on him, the better he gets,” Hanson says.
“Ludvig is just getting on his road,” said Donald when announcing his team. “He’s just starting to write his history. I think he’s a generational talent.”
the road to rome
Åberg had not even met most of the European team members by the time they assembled at Marco Simone for a preamble in September 2023. He was duly boosted when Rory McIlroy walked up to him on the first tee and said, “I’ve been looking forward to this for a while.”
But nothing can prepare a golfer for the intense atmosphere of the Ryder Cup. The noise is beyond compare even for experienced pros, let alone for a rookie who’s never played in a major.
“In college, we don’t really play in front of crowds, so it was a brand-new deal for me,” Åberg admits. “I remember getting overwhelmed at times and having to take a couple minutes for myself, just to breathe and to make sure that I was okay. I was fortunate that my first Ryder Cup was played at home, so the majority of the fans were rooting for us, and that made it a bit easier. That crowd made us feel like we were rock stars as we walked up to the tee boxes, and not only had I never experienced that before, but I have not felt it since then either. Even in a major championship, you don’t get that atmosphere.”
One of the highlights of the 2023 Ryder Cup from a
I remember getting overwhelmed at times and having to take a couple minutes for myself, just to breathe.”
European perspective was the foursomes partnership formed by Åberg and Norwegian Viktor Hovland, who was two years older and playing in his second Ryder Cup. The pair won two foursomes points and added another triumph to Åberg’s groundbreaking year by setting the record for the largest margin of victory in an 18-hole foursomes match in Ryder Cup history, dismantling Scottie Scheffler and Brooks Koepka 9 & 7. It was a match of remarkable contrasts. While the home pair posted seven birdies in their last eight holes, the Americans were seven over par by the time the four players shook hands on the 11th green.
When the group reached the eighth tee of that match, Åberg and Hovland were already five holes up. The eighth is a 515-yard, downhill par 4, with water and trouble along the left-hand side. Åberg stepped up to the tee and smoothly crushed his tee shot straight down the middle, far over the 300-yard mark. He set up Hovland for a straightforward mid-iron to the pin, while the desperate Koepka—a five-time major champ, don’t forget—hooked his tee shot into the hay. The score turned to 6-up in a hurry, as Åberg delivered on Donald’s hope for dominant driving.
Viktor Hovland was a highlight of the 2023 Ryder Cup.
Above: Åberg in the middle of European celebrations in Rome.
“I remember walking off the eighth tee and we were pretty far ahead, but in that kind of match-play situation, it is easy to become content too soon,” Åberg says. “You can start to play to protect your lead, and Viktor and I had a conversation that we were going to keep the pressure on, to finish it early and make sure we got a long lunch break. It was really cool to have that mindset and get the point early. It was something that none of us were expecting. Viktor and I put a lot of pressure on by finding a lot of fairways and a lot of greens, and we were never in trouble. Scheffler and Koepka didn’t have their best day, either.”
Åberg posted two points from four games in Rome, and Donald’s faith in the rookie was vindicated as Europe won back the Ryder Cup by a score of 16½ to 11½.
“Until Rome, I had only seen most of my teammates play golf on TV,” Åberg reflects. “The thing is, with the best players in the world, you can’t appreciate just how good they are until you see it right in front of you. You already know they are the best, but I didn’t know just how good they were until that Ryder Cup week. It was cool to see that, when I was playing well, my game was just as good as
those guys. That gave me a lot of comfort and confidence going forward.”
By the end of 2023, Åberg had won the RSM Classic on the PGA Tour, becoming the first golfer ever to turn pro and win both in Europe and on the PGA Tour—all in the same year. Then, in his majors debut at the 2024 Masters, he finished runner-up to Scheffler.
“Obviously, I want to be on the team again this year,” he adds. “I had heard that once you have been on one Ryder Cup team, you’ll never want to miss the Ryder Cup again, and that is very true, and that is how I feel about Bethpage this year.”
Åberg is ranked eighth on the European Ryder Cup standings as this issue goes to press, placing him just outside the automatic six who qualify for Donald’s team. A winner at the Genesis Invitational on the PGA Tour in February, Åberg would seem to have a place more or less secured on the 12-man team. If he can win again between now and September, he would leave no doubt. Judging by what Donald has said about Åberg and his game, it is difficult to imagine a European Ryder Cup team without him.
Opposite: Åberg’s partnership with
Twice the Masters champion and now an acclaimed golf course designer, Ben Crenshaw is every bit a legend in his own time. He also orchestrated the greatest American comeback in Ryder Cup history.
by ROBIN BARWICK
L CAPTAIN CRENSHAW
late last year, Ben Crenshaw received a letter from the Country Club in Brookline, Massachusetts, inviting him to become an honorary member. The letter came from the golf club that ignited Crenshaw’s lifelong fascination with golf history and architecture, and the club that staged one of the most memorable Ryder Cups of all time, when Crenshaw was captain of the U.S. team.
“They just made me an honorary member, and I am just about as pleased as I can be about that,” says Crenshaw, the 73-year-old Texan. “Somehow, I have always felt a connection to that place, and it means so much to me. That club led me to have so much appreciation for history, for architecture, and for the privilege of playing golf at one of the very first American golf clubs.”
The Country Club was founded in Brookline in 1882, and its first six holes opened for play in 1893. It is one of the five founding-member clubs of the United States Golf Association, which was established in 1894. The Country Club hosted the 1913 U.S. Open, which delivered golf from gentlemanly obscurity into mass appeal in America, thanks to the unlikely champion, local caddie Francis Ouimet.
Amateur golfer Ouimet was 20 at the time and had grown up in a modest home overlooking the 17th hole of the Country Club. He was a clerk in a local sporting goods store and had to ask his boss for permission to play in the U.S. Open. Ultimately, this unassuming local—with his bag carried by a 10-year-old caddie—defeated legendary English professionals Harry Vardon and Ted Ray in an 18-hole playoff. The Boston crowd celebrated wildly, hoisting Ouimet onto their shoulders. American golf had its first people’s champ.
“Bernard Darwin was the London Times correspondent that week of the 1913 U.S. Open,” Crenshaw says, “and reading his coverage inspired me to read everything he ever wrote. I have got all of his books, and his work meant a lot to our game as a whole.”
Crenshaw had not traveled much beyond Texas state lines before he first set foot on the pristine turf of the Country Club as a 16-year-old in the summer of 1968, having qualified for the U.S. Junior Amateur Championship. Crenshaw—who had won the Texas junior title in 1967— played well and reached the quarterfinals, and he departed
Ben Crenshaw had “a good feeling” about the Ryder Cup singles matches in 1999, and his belief was vindicated handsomely.
with a fresh perspective on the game. He wrote in his autobiography, A Feel for the Game, “In one wondrous week . . . I grew up a lot. The Country Club was, for me, the fountainhead.”
More than 30 years later, Crenshaw—by then a two-time Masters champion (1984 and 1995) and a four-time Ryder Cup player—returned to Brookline as the U.S. captain for the 1999 Ryder Cup. Crenshaw’s home team was heavily favored to win, but an inspired European performance over the first two days saw the visitors build a 10–6 lead. With just 12 singles matches left to play, the U.S. team faced a deficit that no other Ryder Cup team had overcome, but Crenshaw was defiant.
“I’m going to leave you all with one thought,” a beleaguered Crenshaw said as he closed his press conference on the eve of those singles matches. “I am a big believer in fate [long pause], and I have a good feeling about this, and that’s all I’m going to tell you.” They are probably the most famous words ever uttered by a Ryder Cup skipper.
Outsiders mocked, but Crenshaw’s team rallied behind him, wholeheartedly shared his faith, and duly delivered a comeback never seen before in the Ryder Cup. The home team won the first six singles matches, and ultimately took 8½ points from 12. When Justin Leonard holed an incredible 45-foot putt on the 17th green in the ninth match against José María Olazábal—with Crenshaw kneeling nearby,
The Right Stuff
Francis Ouimet, champion of the 1913 U.S. Open (above).
The 1999 U.S. Ryder Cup team surrounds captain Crenshaw (below) to celebrate a historic comeback.
Crenshaw has served as the player host of the annual Masters Champions Dinner since 2005. The tradition began in 1952, when fellow Texan Ben Hogan invited all past Masters champions to a Tuesday night gathering. In April, Crenshaw paid tribute to another Texan Masters champ, Scottie Scheffler.
Said Crenshaw in front of the assembled green jackets, “Scottie, I love you, and I want you to keep doing well . . . and I know that you will play well this week. But there is one stipulation that we are going to ask of you: You are going to have to wear Ben Hogan’s right shoe, with an extra spike in it, so your right foot won’t move.”
Crenshaw’s friendly dig, referring to Scheffler’s unique shot routine in which his right foot shuffles in the moment before impact, got the intended response. “Scottie laughed, and the others laughed,” recalls Crenshaw. “But you know, it is amazing to me to watch his right foot because the movement is different every time!”
I have a good feeling about this, and that’s all I’m going to tell you.”
Crenshaw on his way to Masters success in 1984 (above), supported by caddie Carl Jackson, and in the Champions Locker Room at Augusta National in 1990 (left) with fellow past champs Larry Mize (center) and Arnold Palmer (right).
All Eyes on Arnie Crenshaw was 10 years old when he first saw Arnold Palmer up close, in 1962. “My father took me to San Antonio, to the Texas Open,” he says of a tournament he would win himself just 11 years later. “Arnold had already won two in a row, and he won this one, and it was as if the whole tournament was caught up in his wake. All eyes were on Arnold Palmer. He had so much charisma. There would be a crowd in the parking lot watching him change his shoes or re-grip a club. Having watched him for all those years as I grew up, it was such an honor to win his tournament at Bay Hill [in 1993]. Arnold was very kind to me, and I just loved being with him. He was like everyone’s grandfather. He had time for everyone, and he gave so much to professional golf and to all of us. There will never be anyone else like Arnold.”
beside himself with nervous tension—victory was almost assured. One hole later, the final score was USA 14½–Europe 13½.
The Country Club’s 17th green was critical in the singles, just as it had been in 1913, when Ouimet holed a birdie putt there to force the U.S. Open playoff. In the playoff, he birdied 17 again to open up a three-shot lead with one hole to play. No wonder Crenshaw believes in fate.
“For some reason, I thought that place was going to take care of us somehow, that week of the Ryder Cup,” shares Crenshaw, now recognized as one of the finest course architects of the current generation, along with his design partner, Bill Coore. “It was a notion, it was a hopeful notion, but darned if it didn’t manifest itself. There was sentiment, no question, but somehow, on that Sunday, it was our time— and it was amazing to watch it unfurl.”
As it has unfurled over the years, Crenshaw’s career has been equally amazing to watch—with more than one turning point at Brookline’s Country Club. “Literally, once I left the club at the age of 16, I really wanted to understand and immerse myself in golf history and architecture,” Crenshaw recalls. “That place really just switched me on to it.”
Natural
Flare
A curious, adventurous spirit—and a miraculous Northern Lights moment— has helped Jacob Sjöman carve out a creative niche in golf photography. words by ROBIN BARWICK images by JACOB
SJÖMAN
Hole 2, Lofoten Links, Gimsøysand, Norway
Sometimes going out on your own requires courage, whether that is embarking on a journey on the road, at sea, or in business.
Jacob Sjöman was working in Gothenburg, Sweden, as an art director and photographer for a company that produced auto renderings for Volvo, Saab, and other brands. “It was a lot of fun, and I had a salary!” Sjöman says, remembering those bygone days of job security.
Then, one day in 2010, he took some pictures at Hills Golf Club in Gothenburg, one of which ended up on the cover of a magazine. A new career path was revealed.
“It was tough,” admits the Stockholm-based Sjöman, who grew up in a small village called Hannäs, near the town of Åtvidaberg in rustic southern Sweden—about 140 miles south of the Swedish capital. “One year, I wrote emails to 150 golf clubs in Sweden, and I received three responses. One replied, ‘No, thank you.’ The second club said that one of their members took amazing pictures. All three of them said no one way or another. This is why I transitioned to work for international clients.”
Sjöman broadened his vision, to the benefit of his career— and to the many golf courses he has now photographed. Things started to take off in 2016 after he made an impromptu, overnight drive to Lofoten Links in Norway.
“I was in northern Sweden for a book project, but I was interested in seeing Lofoten,” recalls Sjöman, who got his handicap down to 2 as a teenager, playing at Waldemarsviks Golf Club, which was laid out on rock-solid farmland and is about as well known as Hannäs. “I drove for five hours and arrived at night. I started setting up tripods and cameras straight away. I just took pictures for that whole day, so I didn’t really sleep. I captured hole number two under the Northern Lights, and that has become quite famous.”
Sjöman captured a neon-green swirl of the Northern Lights above the second green at Lofoten, on a rocky outcrop in the Norwegian Sea. In a remarkable moment of symmetry between golf and nature, the mysterious lights in the sky formed a halo over the green. Was it spiritual?
Everyone has their own interpretation. The image (shown at left) has been published in books, featured on several magazine covers, and made into framed prints; it has even been used for product packaging.
“I try to do my very best with every opportunity, and sometimes that means you have to lose some sleep,” Sjöman says. “After that Lofoten picture, it became easier for me to get work.”
Sjöman combines a love for golf with an eye for the beauty of natural landscapes. “Cape Kidnappers in New Zealand and Lofoten Links are remote places where the atmosphere and beauty of the landscape seem almost unreal,” he says. “You are surrounded by nature in these vast landscapes, and they are spectacular. I love these places, and for people to be able to play golf there is amazing.”
Hole 12
OLD HEAD GOLF LINKS
County Cork, Ireland
lying south of the historic town of Kinsale, Old Head occupies a diamond of land that juts three miles into the Atlantic. The 220-acre resort boasts an array of ancient Celtic ruins and landmarks, some of which date back to the Iron Age.
“This picture was taken from a drone in August 2023, during an afternoon sunset,” explains Sjöman. “The drop of the cliff is so high, and I wanted to capture it. Drones enable photographers to gain more height, but you need to be careful because it is easy to get too high. Drones have opened a Pandora’s box in photography, and you need to be selective.
“The weather at Old Head can change instantly, which is part of the charm of that place. It is mystical,” he continues. “Photographing Old Head is working with nature at its most spectacular.”
7, 8 & 9
POINT HARDY GOLF CLUB
Cap Estate, Saint Lucia
point hardy, designed by Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, opened in December 2023 and is one of the most celebrated new golf courses in recent years.
“This picture was taken at the course’s grand opening,” notes Sjöman. “There are several layers in this picture. It brings in so many different golf holes, and it also shows the coastline very well. It was taken with a tele-zoom lens, which compresses the image and shows more detail in all the layers. This background would not have worked as well with a wide-angle lens.”
Hole
BANFF SPRINGS
Banff, Canada
the 18-hole golf course at Banff Springs was designed by Canadian Stanley Thompson and opened in 1928, carved between the Canadian Rockies and the Bow River. The majestic Rundle Mountain guards the famous par-3 fourth.
“The hole is called the Devil’s Cauldron, with a glacial lake between the back tee and the green,” says Sjöman. “I took this picture for Fairmont Hotels in September 2019, very early in the morning, and the setting is hard to beat. Rundle Mountain is huge, and it feels like the mountain hangs over you. This picture works well because it has a foreground, mid-ground, and background.”
Hole 15
TARA ITI
Te Arai, New Zealand
a contender for the title of finest golf course in New Zealand, Tara Iti was designed by Tom Doak alongside the prime surfing beach of Te Arai. Located 60 miles north of Auckland, the golf course weaves around 225 acres of sand dunes. The Māori consider Te Arai the lifting point between Earth and Heaven.
“Tara Iti is very special, very pure,” says Sjöman. “Around the fairways are the natural sand, the dunes, and then the ocean. I was there six years ago, and this photograph was taken from a drone in the first morning light. There are several balanced layers to this picture, and if the drone was higher, you would lose some of the layers and lots of the detail. There is structure here, provided by the grass and the dunes in the foreground.”
mammoth dunes, designed by David McLay Kidd, is one of three 18-hole gems at Sand Valley. The golf course became known as Mammoth Dunes during construction because of the imposing hillsides of exposed sand that define much of the layout.
“This shot was taken in the evening,” Sjöman says. “This is a massive landscape, and they kept the natural lie of the land as much as possible. When you are on the golf course, it feels like you have the entire landscape to yourself.”
Nekoosa, Wisconsin
He cites the “boomerang green” in the foreground as one of several fun and inviting features at Mammoth Dunes. “It is shaped like a skateboarding park or a velodrome,” Sjöman says. “The first time I played this hole, I hit a horrible wedge into the green, but the shaping of the green guided my ball near the hole. We all enjoy birdie chances, and this hole design helps golfers have one. Playing this golf course is great fun.”
MAMMOTH DUNES
Life & St yle
For the better part of three decades, barman Colin Field presided over Bar Hemingway, a cocktail den tucked into a corner of the Ritz Paris hotel. The bar became as famous for Field’s ice-cold, dry martinis as for its namesake, who faithfully held court in the space back in the 1920s when it was called Le Petit Bar. (The bar was renamed—and redecorated—in 1994 to pay homage to Ernest Hemingway, who, like Field, knew his way around a stiff drink.)
Field stepped away from Bar Hemingway two years ago, leaving the cocktail program in the capable hands of his longtime protégé, Anne-Sophie Prestail. Since then, the veteran bartender has deftly steered the ship, adhering to the modus operandi of drawing inspiration from Prohibition-era drinks while imparting her own style. “When it comes to crafting new cocktails for the bar,” she says, “I open my mind to the world to fuel my creativity, blending tradition and modernity in each of my new recipes.” —shaun tolson
STORIED SPIRITS
The famed Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris continues to craft boozy libations fit for the Roaring Twenties.
Paris Is a Moveable Feast
While it was created around Christmastime—and crafted to deliver flavors synonymous with festive winter celebrations—this riff on a traditional Champagne cocktail is refreshing year-round. “The blend of Champagne and Cognac is a classic pairing,” Prestail says. “However, I sought to elevate this combination with a unique twist by incorporating citrus fruits, particularly oranges.”
2/3
METHOD
In a white wine glass, combine Grand Marnier, Cognac, and orange blossom water, then fill with ice. Top with Champagne, give it a stir, and garnish with an orange twist.
2/3 oz. Grand Marnier
oz. cinnamoninfused Cognac
3 drops orange blossom water WHITE WINE Champagne
Bitter Negroni
When Prestail conceptualized her take on a classic Negroni, she wanted something lighter than the original. She landed on Lutèce, a classic French aperitif, to use in place of gin. The aperitif, she says, “embraces a subtly herbaceous character, enhancing the bitter profile that aficionados of this classic cocktail often seek.” Because Lutèce may be hard to find in the United States, Prestail suggests using Suze in its place; however, the result will be something entirely new. “This choice harmonizes perfectly with the drink’s essence, maintaining the integrity of the Bitter Negroni while offering a fresh perspective.”
Oh Honey
The inspiration for this faintly herbal martini came from an artisanal Ukrainian vodka, Hoverla, in which Prestail detected delicate hints of honey. To enhance that flavor, she infuses the vodka with an additional measure of honey, then pairs it with a small amount of Yellow Chartreuse. The slightly sweet herbal liqueur “balances beautifully with the dry, classic martini style we uphold at Bar Hemingway,” she says. Like Field before her, Prestail doesn’t shake or stir her martinis with ice. Instead, she keeps the ingredients in the freezer at -23 degrees Celsius. “This technique ensures that our martinis are not only exquisitely smooth but also remain icy cold for a much longer time.”
Once the ingredients are properly chilled, combine them in a mixing glass, stir, then pour into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
3 oz. Hoverla vodka, infused with honey
1/3 oz. Yellow Chartreuse
VINO IN VERITAS
Abbazia di Novacella
SOverwhelmed by choices, we turned to the ultimate insider for his top wine-tasting picks across Italy.
by SHIVANI VORA
ICILY IS WHERE IT ALL STARTED, or so the story goes. The Mycenaean Greeks arrived on the island around 1000 BC, bringing with them viticultural techniques and an established tradition of winemaking. As Italians are prone to do (pasta, anyone?), the Sicilians adopted the cultural practice—and perfected it.
Today, there isn’t a region in Italy without a tradition of viticulture, says Brian Larky, founder of the Italian-wine importer Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Larky, the former winemaker at Ca’ del Bosco in Lombardy, estimates that Italy has 600 varietals of grapes growing across the country and thousands of individual brands.
Tuscany is undoubtedly the most established player on the wine scene, with several standout appellations within the greater region. Still, many of Italy’s most coveted wines come from other parts of the country. For vino-minded visitors, Italy’s many regions, varietals, and vintners can be overwhelming, so we asked Larky to pick four of his favorite spots—and the wineries he likes to visit in each. His selections (some in Dalla Terra’s portfolio) present a variety of enticing options where imbibing is only one of the draws.
MONTALCINO
“Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most recognized and collectible wines in the world,” Larky says. “They’re bold and age beautifully.”
In this Tuscan appellation with more than 200 wineries, Larky gives top billing to Siro Pacenti, where owner and winemaker Giancarlo Pacenti is known for his meticulous attention to detail, in both the vineyards and the cellars. “This is a small winery, and the draw of a visit is the personal attention you get,” Larky says. “There are no group tastings, only private experiences that can last hours and are sometimes led by Pacenti himself.”
its complex, tannic red wines and spectacular location. “The estate is set on a hillside and stunning, and you get the most panoramic views from Montalcino to Siena,” Larky says.
For a truly luxurious tasting experience, don’t miss Castiglion del Bosco (see “The European Grand Tour,” page 82), a centuries-old estate restored by Massimo Ferragamo of the Ferragamo fashion family. In addition to the winery, the property, set in the Val d’Orcia hills outside the town of Montalcino, features a Rosewood hotel, a Tom Weiskopf–designed golf course, a spa, a helipad, and a restaurant with two Michelin stars. “Castiglion del Bosco has some of the most expansive vineyard holdings in Brunello, yielding wines that are complex, diverse, and consistent,” Larky says.
ALTO ADIGE
Located in the Dolomites, Italy’s northernmost viticultural region is known for its crisp wines. “There’s a good mix of red and white wines produced from single varietals,” Larky says. “You’ll rarely find blends.” The champion grapes here are Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc.
Brian Larky
Conti Costanti, a label whose namesake family’s roots in the region date to the 15th century, is another must for
Larky points first to Alois Lageder, a regional leader in biodynamic farming. Founded in 1823 and still run six generations later by the Lageder family, the estate offers a lineup of summer concerts and an excellent restaurant serving local specialties. If Larky had to choose one wine from the more than two dozen in the portfolio, he would go for the Löwengang Chardonnay, a full-bodied, rich expression in which Burgundy meets the Alps.
Larky also recommends cooperatives, which he says produce some of the best wines in Alto Adige. At Cantina Terlano, the Sauvignon Quarz and the Lagrein Porphyr (made from the red Lagrein grape) are the wines to try. “They’re mineral-driven and fresh,” Larky says.
Another co-op is Abbazia di Novacella, an abbey with a wine-production history dating to 1142. “They grow a white grape called Kerner that’s the base for wines with peach
and apricot notes and a mineral finish,” Larky says. “They’re gorgeous to enjoy with any whitefish or summer salad.”
ETNA
Home of raw volcanic vineyards and a culture with North African, Greek, and Spanish influences, Sicily’s Etna region is the current wine-world darling. “This is the area everyone is buzzing about,” Larky says. “The wines are akin to the finesse and structure in Barolo and Burgundy and include many notable reds and whites.”
The location of Tenuta Tascante, on the north slope of Mount Etna, lends the estate’s red and white wines a fine tannic finish and aging potential. “They are leaders in sustainability and respect the land in their farming practices,” Larky says.
Vini Franchetti Passopisciaro, founded by the late Andrea Franchetti, is a pioneer in Mount Etna winemaking, according to Larky. “Their high-altitude vineyards set the tone for the region and yield wines with higher acidity,” he says. “They’re very food-friendly as a result, especially the Franchetti, a red made with Nerello Mascalese grapes.”
The Etna trio caps off with Benanti, a producer known for its single-vineyard labels. The Rovittello Particella No. 341, crafted with Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese grapes, is perhaps the portfolio’s most collectible wine, one that Larky recommends pairing with an aged cheese or meat.
SARDINIA
1. 2.
3.
This is the area everyone is buzzing about.”
Sardinia is a relatively new and small region for wine production, but it’s highly sought after for its “superb wines that imbue the saline freshness from the Mediterranean Sea,” says Larky. “Sardinia is a paradise to explore when it comes to wines.”
He points oenophiles to Surrau, a family-owned producer located in northern Sardinia’s Gallura region that makes spectacular Vermentino whites and Cannonau reds. The winery features a state-of-the-art cellar, an exceptional production team, and a restaurant that serves fresh seafood dishes that perfectly complement the wines.
Larky also suggests Argiolas in southern Sardinia. Owned and run by the Argiolas family, the winery has put the island’s wine scene on the global map. “They make reds and whites but are known for the former,” Larky says. “If I could, I would drink Turriga, made with an indigenous Cannonau grape, any night of the week. It doesn’t hold back in its fruit notes and structure.”
1.
Etna
2. Vini Franchetti Passopisciaro Franchetti.
3. Sciala Vermentino di Gallura DOCG Superiore.
The Benanti winery at the base of Monte Serra in Viagrande (top left).
Tenuta Tascante Contrada Pianodario
DOC.
NEW NOTES IN NAPLES
A two-time James Beard Award winner is tapping into his culinary—and auditory— journeys at his forthcoming Florida restaurant.
by SHAUN TOLSON
for chef gavin kaysen, dining experiences are like music.
FIn the last decade, Kaysen has created a small but mighty hospitality empire in Minneapolis, first with Spoon and Stable, an eatery that specializes in New American cuisine, and later with Demi, a 20-seat restaurant that reflects his perspective on fine dining—and smooth listening.
“Demi is jazz,” says Kaysen, whose résumé includes two James Beard Awards. “It’s that restaurant that produces a really incredible experience where you walk away and you think to yourself, those are the masters of their craft, and it was a pleasure to eat there and be a part of it.”
Spoon and Stable, meanwhile, is rock and roll. “It’s a party,” Kaysen declares. “It’s energetic; it’s fun. It’s exactly what I would want in a restaurant if I went out to eat.”
This page: Libby Anderson; opposite: courtesy Spoon and Stable
We’re bringing Prince down to Naples.”
—GAVIN KAYSEN
Such a description begs the question: What musical genre will describe the Merchant Room, Kaysen’s new restaurant set to open this fall at the forthcoming Naples Beach Club, a Four Seasons Resort? “It’s a mix—it’s eclectic,” says the 46-year-old chef. “You’ve got R&B, but you’ve also got identifiable hits. I mean, we’re in Minnesota, so it’s got to be Prince. We’re bringing Prince down to Naples.”
In reality, Kaysen and his team are developing a concept that shares plenty of DNA with his first Minneapolis restaurant, especially when it comes to cuisine. “New American” is often synonymous with farm-to-table, but the way Kaysen interprets the style, it’s more indicative of America’s roots as a melting pot of cultures. “In the food business, we all travel so much and we see each other so much,” he says of the culinary world’s tight-knit community of chefs. “We grow up in the profession together, and we end up learning all these different techniques, so New American is really this blanket opportunity to say that we’re going to take the experiences that we’ve learned from each other all around the world.”
As for the chef’s own journey, it began in Vermont at the New England Culinary Institute. Shortly afterward, professional opportunities took him to Napa Valley, then to Switzerland, England, San Diego, Manhattan—where he worked alongside Daniel Boulud—and finally back to the Twin Cities, where he grew up.
In that time, especially as chef de cuisine at Café Boulud in Manhattan, Kaysen developed an understanding of the importance of high-quality ingredients sourced from local purveyors. With the Merchant Room, he’s excited to forge new relationships with farmers and fishermen along Florida’s west coast. Still, he will be bringing along a few finds from the northern Midwest, such as flour that’s produced from an heirloom variety of wheat grown 33 miles from Spoon and Stable. That will allow the chef to recreate some of the pastas he’s become famous for in Minneapolis, including a rendition of a seafood fra diavolo with squid-ink spaghetti.
“There’s going to be a familiarity to the cuisine and the menu because this is sort of the sister to Spoon and Stable,” he explains. “What will be different is the setting that we’re in.”
In the words of Prince: “It’s all about being there.”
Gavin Kaysen (opposite, at Demi) has made a name for himself in Minnesota with dishes such as ricotta gnudi (right) and Alaskan halibut with baby artichokes, grilled gem lettuce, and ras el hanout (below).
Witch’s Rock
Pura Aventura
Costa Rica has evolved into a wildly popular luxury destination, but there is still true adventure to be found in the land of pura vida.
by BRUCE WALLIN
Tthe first time I went to Costa Rica was on a whim. A friend called me at work and asked if I wanted a free ticket to go on a surf trip to the country’s Pacific coast. The catch? He was leaving the next morning.
His brother-in-law, he explained, had broken his arm and was unable to go on the trip. This was pre-9/11, when you could simply change the name on a plane ticket and go in another person’s place. I did just that—and it was one of the best decisions of my life.
We stayed in $10-a-night casitas, ate rice and beans for breakfast, and spent our days surfing empty breaks, exploring jungle rivers, and soaking in the friendly culture of what was then an unknown destination for most Americans (including my 23-year-old self, who, if I’m being completely honest, didn’t know what Costa Rica was before that phone call).
Costa Rica and I have both changed quite a bit in the decades since that trip. My backpacking days are a distant memory, and the once-under-the-radar country has become a luxury adventure destination like no other, revered for its wildlife, beaches, rainforests, and pura vida, or “pure life,” sensibilities.
The latest and possibly greatest of Costa Rica’s luxury resorts opened this February at Peninsula Papagayo, a private community that is a shining example of the country’s upscale evolution. The rugged, jungle-covered spit of land juts into the Pacific along Costa Rica’s northwestern shore and is home to a Four Seasons resort, an Arnold Palmer–designed
The author (top, at left) on his first trip to Costa Rica, in 1993, and earlier this year at the famed Witch’s Rock. Opposite page: The new Nekajui resort embraces its dramatic setting with features like a hanging wooden bridge and a treetop cocktail bar.
golf course (see “A Wild Ride,” page 26), and intimate neighborhoods of multimillion-dollar vacation homes. Its newest addition, Nekajui, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is a 107-room retreat that belongs in any conversation about the world’s finest beach resorts.
This spring, shortly after Nekajui’s opening, I returned to Costa Rica for the first time in nearly 17 years. I was curious to see whether the now wildly popular luxury destination could still deliver on what drew me and others there in the first place: true adventure. On day two, as I was jumping off a speedboat at the notorious Witch’s Rock with not another tourist in sight, I had my answer.
First, a bit about Nekajui: The resort, which is part of Ritz-Carlton’s exclusive Reserve collection, is set along a cliff above a stunning bay. Views stretch from two islands just offshore to Witch’s Rock, Santa Rosa National Park, and, on clear days, the Rincón de la Vieja volcano in the distance. Suites, restaurants, and a spectacular spa complex line the cliff’s edge, with a few “treetop” rooms tucked just below. A giant hanging bridge links the upper parts of the property, while a funicular offers a convenient and scenic connection to the resort’s beach club and tapas restaurant. Among Nekajui’s other excellent dining options is a Peruvian restaurant from Lima chef Diego Muñoz, where a hidden door leads to a speakeasy-style bar.
On my second morning at Nekajui, I was greeted at the beach club by J.D., a surfing guide for Papagayo’s outdoor adventure division. He was planning to take me to a nearby beach for a beginner lesson, but when he learned that I had some experience—even though it had been more than two years since my last surf session—he suggested we venture to Witch’s Rock instead.
Witch’s Rock, or Roca Bruja, is famed for its hollow peaks and ominously beautiful setting between a vast sandy beach in Santa Rosa park and the towering outcrop for which it’s named. The break can be reached via a long
It was a foot bigger yesterday, and a foot bigger than that the day before.”
RIVER TO RAINFOREST
In a country where more than 25 percent of the land is protected as national parks and reserves, it’s essential to venture beyond the beach. Costa Rica’s commitment to conservation extends from Guanacaste’s tropical dry forests to the Caribbean’s lowland jungles and the high cloud-forest peaks in between. The two resorts featured here offer a taste of the country’s distinct environments and experiences—and make for an ideal combination with Nekajui or another Pacific coast property on a multiday adventure.
Nayara Gardens
The Resort: Nature’s nurturing qualities permeate the experience at Nayara Gardens, one of three sibling hotels set on a forested hill above the resort town of La Fortuna. Villas and casitas are tucked into the foliage, with peekaboo views of the towering, cone-shaped Arenal Volcano. Toucans, sloths, wild turkeys, monkeys, and more can be spotted throughout the property, which comes alive at night with the sounds of countless critters and the brilliant blue lights of fireflies. The best place to commune with Nayara’s nature is at the property’s thermal pools, a collection of giant stone hot tubs set along a hillside, all at the natural hot spring temperature of 97 degrees. Soaking in a tub while watching monkeys swing through the massive trees overhead is simply magical.
The Adventure: The La Fortuna area offers just about any kind of adventure you can dream up—zip-lining, canyoneering, kayaking on Lake Arenal, hiking, horseback riding, off-roading, and more. Some of the experiences are a little too popular, such as the hike to La Fortuna Waterfall. While spectacularly beautiful—highlighted by a 230-foot cascade where you can swim just underneath—the hike down cement steps to the falls is inevitably packed with tourists. It’s possible to get farther afield and away from the crowds, as I did on a waterfall excursion at Blue Falls in Toro Amarillo, about an hour and a half’s drive from Nayara. The resort’s Trio Waterfalls Trekking experience took me to a sprawling mountain farm graced with multiple cascades, including one that stretches nearly 300 feet high. The variety of falls and pools along the river—and the steep climbs on rickety steps that are required to access some of them—means that you can usually find a quiet spot for a solo dip in a turquoise swimming hole.
Río Perdido
The Resort: Set in a 1,500-acre reserve along a mile-long stretch of river in the hills of Guanacaste, this 38-bungalow retreat offers a luxurious combination of “adrenaline and Zen” that is particularly well suited to couples. The Zen part of the equation can be found in the property’s brand-new spa or atop a yoga platform hanging 140 feet above the river. The accommodations—including eight new bungalows with glass walls and hot springs–fed outdoor soaking tubs that look out to a forested canyon—also contribute to the cathartic experience. Of Río Perdido’s adrenaline-inducing options, several are on-site, including mountain biking trails, a wild zip-lining and via ferrata course, and a stretch of river for whitewater tubing.
The Adventure: For more extreme activities, it’s worth venturing beyond the Río Perdido preserve. The put-in point for white-water rafting on the Río Tenorio is just a half-hour drive from the resort. Remote and not nearly as trafficked as some of Costa Rica’s other white-water routes, the river offers Class III and IV rapids that present a thrilling contrast to the tranquil jungle setting. Río Perdido also runs off-site adventures to Tenorio Volcano National Park, the waterfalls of the stunning Río Celeste, and more.
La Fortuna Waterfall
Río Tenorio
hike from the park’s nearest campground, but it is far more common to go by boat. Nekajui—located just 45 minutes away by boat—is about as close as one can get to this hallowed surfer’s haunt.
Not having surfed in some time, I was hesitant to dive back into the sport at a place like Witch’s Rock—especially when we arrived to find no one else there. Somewhat to my relief, the conditions that afternoon were mild by Witch’s Rock standards. “It was a foot bigger yesterday,” J.D. said, “and a foot bigger than that the day before.”
With our boat idling well beyond the break line, we jumped in and paddled toward the nearest peaks, the mighty rock behind us and miles of empty beach and tropical dry forest stretching before us. We caught waves at will, bobbed in the water between sets, and marveled at the majesty of nature. For a respite, we headed to shore and walked along a river mouth where dozens of baby nurse sharks (at least, J.D. told me they were nurse sharks) darted through the brackish water.
By the end of our session, I was exhausted in the best possible way. We clambered onto the boat and took a leisurely route back, meandering along the still-wild Guanacaste coast. Arriving at Nekajui, I retired to the beach club for a couple of completely guilt-free beers by the pool.
I spent two more days at Nekajui, time that included a thrilling off-road tour to a hidden cove, where I went body surfing and, again, had the entire beach to myself. I paddleboarded in the bay and even played a round at Palmer’s Ocean Course, which, with its constant elevation changes through a wildlife-filled jungle, was an adventure in itself.
The mere existence of such an amenity on a once-wild peninsula is evidence of how much has changed since my first visit. Yes, Costa Rica has grown up. But I’ll still be ready and willing the next time it comes calling.
Nekajui (left) opened this February across from the Arnold Palmer–designed Ocean Course at the 1,400-acre Peninsula Papagayo resort community.
Photo: Evan Schiller
Sheila JOHNSON
For the past 20 years, Sheila Johnson, the founder and CEO of the Salamander Collection, has meticulously grown her hospitality company’s portfolio of luxury hotels and resorts. With the recent addition of PGA National Resort in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, the collection now includes three golf resorts. Johnson, who took up golf in her 50s, no longer plays, but the 76-year-old entrepreneur (and classically trained violinist) still harbors a love for the game—and a desire to expand its reach. In 2013, she created a Harvard Kennedy School fellowship for students from underserved communities, and during the fellowship’s five-year existence, she encouraged all the students to learn how to play golf. —shaun tolson
What attracted you to PGA National?
PGA National is one of the most storied golf destinations in the game and a golf lover’s dream. It is one of only a handful of locations to have hosted a Ryder Cup, a major championship, and a PGA Tour event.
Salamander Collection now has three golf resorts— PGA National, Innisbrook in Palm Harbor, and Half Moon in Jamaica. Do you plan to add more?
Golf is always a consideration of ours when we are looking at new opportunities, but it’s often the destination—and the opportunity to deliver an authentic experience—that first drives the decision-making process.
How have golf resorts evolved in recent years?
They have become much more inclusive and embracing of new ideas. A perfect example is the Andy Staples–designed nine-hole Staple Course at PGA National Resort. It can be played quickly with just a few clubs, even with just a putter, if you like. This allows golfers of all skill levels, including families and beginners, to enjoy the game without the time or pressure of a full-length course.
Photo:
Evan Schiller
The Champion (left) and the Staple (above) at Florida’s PGA National Resort.
When and how were you introduced to golf?
What do you love most about the game?
I loved how the game presented a challenge to me—both to play and in business.”
It was over two decades ago when I was investigating purchasing Innisbrook. I simply fell in love with the resort, the staff, and the game. I loved how the game presented a challenge to me—both to play and in business. As a violinist, I have good hand-eye coordination, but I didn’t expect the game to be so difficult.
What aspect of the game proved to be the most challenging when you started?
To a beginner, all aspects of the game are challenging—swing mechanics, ball striking, and simply finding the time to commit. When I was learning, I had a putting and chipping green installed at my farm in Virginia, so my short game was probably my strongest aspect.
I love the conversation it stimulates. I tell my students that the golf course is a great place to conduct business. It’s rare you get to spend around five hours with anyone, and that’s what golf allows. I truly believe that time invested pays off somewhere down the line, so much so that I bought many of my Harvard Fellows a set of golf clubs and encouraged them to either learn or get out and play.
What are some of your fondest golf memories?
Many years ago, I played a round with Condoleezza Rice at Innisbrook. I learned that she was an excellent player; our balls were rarely ever in the same location, but the round together allowed us to strike up a firm friendship that has lasted. It was tremendous fun.
Discover More to
A leader in top-tier private golf communities is branching out to new frontiers.
by SHAUN TOLSON
It all began more than 30 years ago, when real estate developer Mike Meldman attempted to teach his two young sons how to play golf. Despite their father’s best efforts, the boys simply weren’t having it. For starters, they hated having to dress up. They also had no interest in playing golf by the rules.
That experience led the then-30-something businessman to a revelation. He saw an untapped segment of the private club space: properties that combined championship golf and family experiences with beautiful destinations and impeccable amenities—all in a highly luxurious but extremely laid-back environment. Meldman founded Discovery Land Company in 1994 and, two years later, opened the brand’s first property, the Estancia Club in Scottsdale, Arizona.
“I wanted to create communities not only where parents could share new experiences with their kids but someday with their grandkids,” he says. “I wanted to experience new and fun activities with my boys without the stress of teaching them skills I didn’t know myself. It was also important to me that they learned about the culture and local environment we were in.”
Over the next couple of decades, Discovery’s portfolio of private clubs—each offering a relaxed lifestyle, luxury residences, and amenities for every member of the family—expanded
across North America and the Caribbean. Along the way, Meldman’s boys learned much more than just how to play golf: They spent time fly fishing and white-water rafting in Montana, and snorkeling, spearfishing, and surfing on the Big Island of Hawaii.
These and other adventurous activities led Meldman to develop a program that’s now offered at every Discovery club: Outdoor Pursuits, a comprehensive guiding and outfitting service that encourages families to experience the outdoors in ways that are rooted in the local environment and designed to maximize their enjoyment of it. The professional guides “bring to life unique and one-ofa-kind adventures and activities playing off the natural environment,” says Meldman.
The number of environments where members can enjoy those experiences has increased steadily with every Discovery opening. The company owns and operates more than three dozen private clubs and communities, mostly in North America, but its roster of recent debuts and future openings shows an eye toward overseas development. “Europe and the United Arab Emirates [UAE] have always been target markets for Discovery,” Meldman says. “And they’re exciting growth opportunities that are equally intriguing to our members.”
Meldman first aspired to build a club in the UAE almost two decades ago, after watching a 60 Minutes interview with
Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum about his vision to develop Dubai into a city that embraced the luxury lifestyle. Meldman’s own vision is being realized this year, with the debut of Discovery Dunes, a community outside the city that features a lake, a comprehensive well-being program, and a Tom Fazio–designed golf course among its many amenities. (Discovery has also opened a city club for members in downtown Dubai.)
When it debuts, Discovery Dunes will be the only fully private golf community in the region. “There’s a broader trend of affluent families looking to invest in properties that serve as sanctuaries—places where they can truly escape the fast-paced demands of modern life,” Meldman says. “What we’re offering is the first of its kind in the Dubai region—a private, members-only, low-density community that prioritizes family experiences.”
A similar sentiment can be found in a sanctuary-like setting along the southwestern coast of Portugal, where Discovery opened CostaTerra Golf & Ocean Club in 2022.
Clockwise from far left: A cottage at CostaTerra in Portugal; the beach at CostaTerra; Discovery Downtown in Dubai; and the Lakehouse at Discovery Dunes.
The serene coastal environment encourages languid days at the beach, but those days can just as easily include adrenalinepacked activities. “CostaTerra immerses members in the region’s customs by offering horseback riding along the beach, oceanfront dining, vineyard tours, and even a one-of-a-kind surf experience with big-wave legend Garrett McNamara,” says Meldman, referring to the professional surfer who found fame at the notorious Nazaré break, located about 140 miles north of the community. CostaTerra also features a golf course designed by Fazio, who has collaborated with Meldman at multiple Discovery communities.
A company known for golf, Discovery recently made its debut in the Home of Golf. The developer worked in tandem with Scotland’s historical society to refurbish Taymouth Castle, a stunning 19th-century edifice built upon the remains of a much older castle that dates back to 1550. The lavish stone residence serves as the nucleus of a Discovery club that spans 7,775 acres along the south bank of the River Tay and offers all the outdoor pursuits one would associate with Scotland: salmon and trout fishing, driven bird hunts for pheasant and grouse, red stag hunts, and rounds of golf played on a 1920s James Braid design that is reopening this year after a renovation led by Fazio disciple Beau Welling.
On the heels of CostaTerra and Taymouth Castle, Discovery is now setting its sights on new international destinations. “We’re currently exploring locations like New Zealand, Australia, and areas in Asia,” Meldman says. “[Once we develop there], then our footprint will really be everywhere.”
We’re currently exploring locations like New Zealand, Australia, and areas in Asia.”
Taymouth Castle in Scotland (left) and CostaTerra in Portugal (below).
Arnold Palmer could have lived anywhere, but he chose to stay—and to raise his family—in his hometown of Latrobe, Pennsylvania. His father, Deacon, helped to build Latrobe Country Club, and it was here where Arnie shaped his love of golf and of people, where his character was built and where he launched a life and legacy that inspired an Army of fans around the world.
The Arnold & Winnie Palmer Foundation is mustering Arnie’s Army to preserve Latrobe’s role in inspiring dreams, building character and leading the game of golf forward. We owe it to Arnie’s legacy to share Latrobe with the world.
“Your hometown is not where you’re from; it’s who you are.”
— ARNOLD PALMER
KINGDOM CLUBHOUSE
Publisher’s picks and other summer favorites from the staff and friends of Kingdom.
My son Sam recently enjoyed a wonderful week of work experience at the London Golf Club, a worldclass golf facility outside southeast London. The International Course (pictured) is one of a pair of Jack Nicklaus championship courses here, both of which have staged tour events, and both are kept to immaculate tour conditions.
—JON EDWARDS
The Royal Brackla distillery was the first Scotch whisky distillery to be granted a royal warrant, which it received from King William IV in 1833. The Royal Brackla 18 Year Old whisky is one to savor. Aged in American oak casks and finished in Palo Cortado sherry casks, it is rich and layered, spicy and creamy— with hints of citrus fruit.
—matthew squire
This Ettinger Capra Golf Pouch is part of a brand-new collection of golf accessories launched by the famous English leathergoods company. Every Ettinger piece is handmade at the brand’s historic factory in England. For the Golf Pouch, lightweight and durable pig suede and goat leather bring a soft feel.
—matthew halnan
A journey to Provence is not complete without a visit to Château d’Esclans, the vineyard that is largely responsible for the growing popularity of the region’s rosés. This is the producer of Whispering Angel (the family chapel, under a rooftop bell at one end of the château, features sculptures of whispering cherubs above the altar, hence the name), but try the prized Garrus, a more complex rosé that derives from 100-year-old vines and is aged in French oak barrels.
robin barwick
I’m overdue for a summer road trip, so my wife and I are packing up the car and heading out to explore Northern California and Southern Oregon. We’re kicking things off in Gold Country at the National Exchange Hotel in Nevada City (which, confusingly, is in California). First opened during the gold rush in the 1850s, the property emerged from a three-year renovation as a luxury hotel that looks straight out of the Old West but brand new and contemporary at the same time.
—bruce wallin
The gin of the French Riviera is called 44°N Distilled in Grasse, it is spiced with an array of locally foraged botanicals and pairs beautifully with both plain and Mediterranean tonics. r.b.
The new Soul of Nomad Kennedy Golf Bag is available in a “very” limited edition of 55. Each handmade bag is personalized with its owner’s name.
—shaun tolson
We love Western Birch Golf Co.
Premium Wood Golf Tees, and they will once again adorn the tee boxes of the Kingdom Cup at Hilton Head Island in September.
SQUIRE SELECT
Penfold Golf’s Ryder Cup Collection celebrates the enduring spirit and excitement of the biennial international matchup. Both Penfold and the Ryder Cup date back to 1927, and this collection’s special pouches— made in partnership with British Millerain—come in USA and Europe editions. It’ll be Team Europe for me!
—j.e.
The A. Putnam Rev-Pack Anorak is perfect for golf and travel. It is light and compact, and it protects you from a rain shower without overheating. It stretches for comfort and is even reversible—thank you, A. Putnam!
—emily poppert
The Vortex Golf Anarch rangefinder keeps winning awards—and for good reason. It has stunning and accurate optics, and it’s easy to use. It even comes with a lifetime warranty.
—s.t.
Hubs Peanuts have long been the official nuts of the Edwards household, but they are now also the Official Peanut of Hilton Head Island—and once again a sponsor of the Kingdom Cup.
—j.e.
The innovative, compact, and convenient Back 9 Clean Golf Club Cleaning Kit features cleaning foam, a brush, and a towel. Clean clubs mean clean ball strikes!
—j.e.
KINGDOM CUP 2025
The Kingdom team is returning to beautiful Hilton Head Island in South Carolina for the annual Kingdom Cup golf tournament. This year’s event—taking place September 11 to 14—will feature Davis Love III, Annika Sörenstam, Geno Bonnalie, and other icons of the game, highlighting a weekend of incredible golf, Lowcountry cuisine, top-shelf libations, and live entertainment. Guests will stay and play at the spectacular Sea Pines Resort, with rounds on Love III’s renowned Atlantic Dunes course and Heron Point by the legendary Pete Dye. For more information on Kingdom Cup and to purchase your tickets for this one-ofa-kind event, visit Kingdom.golf.
Coming Soon from Kingdom
THE TRAVEL ANNUAL
Debuting this fall, Ultimate Golf Getaways is a coffee-table publication showcasing the world’s most extraordinary golf destinations and journeys. This special edition from the editors of Kingdom will take you from the rugged coastlines of Northern Ireland and the vineyard-lined valleys of Tuscany to the Sandhills of Nebraska and the volcanic landscapes of Hawaii. Whether for a quick weekend getaway or a longer exploration of a legendary golf destination, you’ll find expert advice on must-play courses, the best places to stay, and key people to connect with, as well as recommendations for dining, off-course adventures, and more. With its striking photography and collector’s-edition format, Kingdom’s Ultimate Golf Getaways brings these one-of-a-kind travel experiences to life.
WINTER ISSUE: The Kingdom List
From the top new courses and resorts to the most influential athletes and industry leaders, Kingdom’s winter issue sees the return of our annual homage to the best in the golf world and beyond. Special for this year: Kingdom sits down with the rising PGA Tour star Thomas Detry for an exclusive interview.
Above: Vineyards at the sprawling Castiglion del Bosco estate.
Right: Davis Love III’s Atlantic Dunes (top); Thomas Detry (bottom).
ROUNDS
Crail
pace of play is a hot-button topic on the PGA Tour—and has long been a subject of debate at golf clubs and resorts. Since 2014, Atlanta-based Tagmarshal has helped hundreds of golf courses better manage the flow of rounds via a tracking device that attaches to golf carts and is carried by caddies. We tapped into the company’s database to find out just how fast amateurs are playing.
