N Ú M E RO 56 S ET E M B RO 2 02 0
MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO, ATP PRESIDENT
“THE GREAT VIRTUE
OF THE TEXTILE SECTOR IS THE ABILITY TO ADAPT” P 8&9
FOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO
DIRETOR: MANUEL SERRÃO MENSAL | ASSINATURA ANUAL: 30 EUROS
PAULO VAZ PREDICTS A MAGNA STORM
N U M B E R 1 6 D EC E M B E R 2 021
MODTISSIMO RETURNS TO EXPONOR FOR ITS 59TH EDITION P6
AN AUTUMN RUN FOR TRADE SHOWS P 12
ADALBERTO AND BARATA GARCIA AWARDED IN THE 8TH EDITION OF FFF
FARFETCH BUYS LUXCLUSIF TO LEAD IN SECOND-HAND LUXURY
ONWORK DEVELOPS LEADLESS X-RAY PROTECTION PRODUCTS
I N T E R N AT I O N A L DIRETOR: MANUEL SERRÃO
PORTUGAL NEEDS TO HIRE IMMIGRANTS FOR TEXTILE SECTOR P4
n EDITORIAL By: Manuel Serrão
TRUTH OR DARE
ADALBERTO AND BARATA GARCIA AWARDED IN THE 8TH EDITION OF FFF
The companies Adalberto and Barata Garcia and the brands Piupiuchick, Cotton Moon and Vidda Royalle took the stage as winners at the awards ceremony for the Fashion Film Festival, the only event in Portugal dedicated to fashion cinema. After a fierce competition and with a strong international inclination – with 109 films in the competition – the winners of the five categories were revealed. Among the fashion brands, Piupiuchick received the award for best film, Cotton Moon for
best photography and Vidda Royalle won the home textile award, a recent category created in honour of the municipality of Guimarães. Adalberto's film received the award for best director (Inês Oliveira), while Barata Garcia received the award for best film in the technical textiles category. The T Jornal award, voted by the public, was awarded to the short film “Own Tradition” 2.0 by André Cardoso. The jury, composed by Braz Costa (general director of CITEVE), Marta Mota Prego (head
of the economic development division of the Guimarães City Council), Fátima Lopes (designer), Wilmer Williams (director of the Buenos Aires International Fashion Film Festival, promoter of this eighth edition), Justin Amorim (director and producer), Estela Rebelo (former marketing and communication director of FFF), Patricia Weiss (head of branded content) and Maria João Vieira Pinto (director of Marketeer magazine), were present both physically and via video. t
After two atypical and challenging years for all of us, but also for our Textile and Clothing Industry, we found it mandatory to take stock of the situation with the President of ATP, the largest and most representative association of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry. Mário Jorge Machado gladly accepted the challenge, and the readers will be able to find in our central pages the answers to almost all the questions that arise to our Textile and Clothing Industry at the moment. I would like to draw particular attention to one aspect of the interview that reminded me of a very common game in my high school days: truth or dare. While it is true that the trend for sustainable products seems to have come to stay, and increasingly corresponds to consumer demand, that same sustainability has led to an increase in costs. Consequently, public entities need to create a tax for competing products without these (more expensive) features that everyone raves about. Just like the ones the Portuguese Government already does, for example, for energy and automobiles. t
Property: ATP - Associação Têxtil e de Vestuário de Portugal NIF: 501070745 Editor: Mário Jorge Machado Director: Manuel Serrão Adress: Rua Fernando Mesquita, 2785, Ed. CITEVE 4760-03164 Vila Nova de Famalicão Telephone number: +351 252 303 030 Email: email@example.com Subscription e Advertising: Cláudia Azevedo Lopes Telephone number: +351 969 658 043 - mail: firstname.lastname@example.org ERC Provisional Registration: 126725 Circulation: 1000 copies Print Shop: Grafedisport Adress: Estrada Consiglieri Pedroso, 90 - Casal Santa Leopoldina - 2730-053 Barcarena Legal Deposit Number: 451405/19 Editorial Status: Available in: http:// tjornalinternational.com/editorial-statute/
LAMEIRINHO AWARDS TEAM SPIRIT Lameirinho decided recognize the collective effort and team spirit of approximately 700 employees, and give them an extra prize. The Christmas subsidy was paid at the end of November, and everyone will also receive a 500 euro bonus, as a recognition of their commitment and professionalism throughout the year, but also to share the company's profits. The company's management stated that the intention is “to contribute to improving the workers' Christmas, by sharing part of the 2021 results”.
"Since 2018, we have models approved by customers without physical samples" Samuel Costa Sonix Administrator
UNIVERSITY OF HAMBURG VISITS PETRATEX
The innovation and technology of Portuguese textiles attracts the attention of specialists from around the world. This time, it was the University of Hamburg, in Germany, which brought its students to Portugal to get to know the most innovative features of the Portuguese textile Cluster. After a guided tour at Petratex, where, in addition to the company's history, the students also learned about sustainable services and practices, and even took a picture as a souvenir. Thanks to its skills, Petratex is known by its great versatility. t
PORTUGAL NEEDS TO HIRE IMMIGRANTS FOR TEXTILE SECTOR Complaints from companies that face difficulties in hiring labour are multiplying, and there are those who already foresee a huge problem with the replacement of 56 thousand workers in the sector who will retire by 2030. Valuing and officially recognizing the textile work as art, in order to attract and captivate the new generations, no longer seems to be enough. The solution, says the president of ATP, involves hiring immigrants. “There is no one in Portugal to replace the workers who will retire in the next ten years. Only through immigration we will be able to overcome the lack of manpower”, says Mário Jorge Machado to RTP. “In the past, Portugal was a supplier of immigrants to Germany and France. Today, it is Portugal that needs the immigration workforce”, says the president of the ATP, explaining that “a part of the work is already being subcontracted in North Africa, where, unlike Europe, there is a lot of young labour in need of employment”.
Based on the reality of a sector that exports 80% of its production, and that can lose 56 thousand jobs by 2030, the report by journalist Eduarda Dias uses three companies as an example. At Os Cândidos, specialized in tailoring, administrator Cristina Laranjeiras requests that “tailors are recognized as artists in order to value the activity and to captivate young people. Their work is an art form”. Francisco Correia, from Frasilpor, warns that “one day we will have orders and nobody to execute them. There is no manpower, and the sector is increasingly ageing”. “It is a situation that, if not quickly reversed, will become a very serious problem”, says José Costa, administrator of Becri group. Responsible for 600 workers, the businessman also points to the valorization of textile work as an art form. “The textile industry is art. And if we look at it as art, I think we will again attract young people to the textile industry”. t
AF VILAS BOAS INAUGURATES NEW FACILITIES WITH A CONFERENCE Devoted to the manufacture of all types of embroidery, transfers and textile applications, AF Vilas Boas is celebrating its 25th anniversary. The highlight was the inauguration of its new manufacturing facilities, on
December 17th and 18th. Of the commemorative program, the company highlights the conference ‘The Textile Embroidery’, where current and essential topics for the textile industry were addressed
by several speakers. Also worth mentioning is the 'Embroidery Show', an exhibition that produced exclusive embroidery in real-time, with innovative and sustainable techniques and products. t
TEXTILE DESIGNERS ON COVILHÃ SIDEWALK
TERESA PEREIRA ON PREMIÈRE VISION’S INSTAGRAM
Drawings of local fabric designers will be represented on the sidewalks of Covilhã. The goal is to strengthen the city's connection to the textile industry and create the Debuxo Route, a project developed within the scope of Covilhã as a Creative City by UNESCO in the area of design, explained the councillor for Culture at the City Hall, Regina Gouveia.
An article by Teresa Pereira, a specialist in colour trends and textile materials at CITEVE, published in PV Magazine about Autumn-Winter 22/23 trends, is now featured in Première Vision's instagram feed. The article followed the last edition of the Paris fair, when Teresa Pereira was chosen to represent Portugal at the international experts meeting.
was the number of Polopiqué's export destinations
LEAF SEASON BRINGS COLOUR TO CONCRETO’S WINTER This winter, Concreto – the Portuguese brand by Valerius Group – decided to bet on colour, and the proof is its most recent collection. In shades of blue and coral, Leaf Season appears as a pinch of colour for greyer days, and includes a blazer, pants, top, knit jumper and two trench coats. The pieces have no patterns and shine in their straight cuts, sometimes oversized, to create elegant, but comfortable silhouettes. Designed for urban women, this capsule collection is made up of wardrobe essentials.
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Anuncio T Internacional 235x295(241x301)cm ER 2021 quarta-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2021 10:30:58
GIOVANNI GALLI LAUNCHES SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION FOR WINTER Elegance with an eco-friendly touch is Giovanni Galli's suggestion for this winter. The brand has just launched a new collection where the key pieces are blouses and shirts with a youthful style, and a strong sustainable background. The jackets are waterproof, ideal for rainy days, but come with a removable or retractable hood, for the times when the sun is peeking. As for the shirts, in shades of red and grey, are 100% ecological, and made from recycled materials.
"Somelos has always been a university. Those who leave, always leave with much more skills" Paulo Melo Somelos Administrator
SME INNOVATION 2021 WITH ISABEL FURTADO AND CLEMENTINA FREITAS The leaders of TMG Automotive and Latino Group Confecções were the representatives of the Portuguese textile sector at the SME Innovation 2021 meeting. As president of COTEC Portugal, Isabel Frutado (TMG) was responsible for the opening speech, while Clementina Freitas (Latino) participated in the debate Attracting the Best – The Advantages of SME. The Reinvention of the Business Network was the theme of this edition. At the meeting that was closed by the Portuguese President, Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa, widespread interruptions in operations and supply were also analysed, together with the creation of new models of remote work, the main inheritance of the health crisis.
MODTISSIMO RETURNS TO EXPONOR FOR ITS 59TH EDITION
It's the return to a home where “it was very happy”. Celebrating its 60th edition next year, Modtissimo returns on February 17th and 18th to Exponor, a change that results mainly from space limitations at Por to Airport, where the first of its two annual editions was usually held. It will now take place in the renovated Exponor Pav ilion 5, with 6 thousand m2. Since February 2020, the growth in number of exhibitors and in the area occupied makes it impossible to hold t h e n e x t e d i t i o n at t h e A i r por t without leav ing many of the exhibitors out. And those aren't the only advantages. Another one is the possibility to bring toget h e r a l l e x h i b i t o r s a n d i n f o r-
m at i o n f o r u m s i n t h e s a m e area. Exponor also has better accessibility and much easier parking options, equally free, for exhibitors and buyers. In terms of location, and thinking of foreign buyers who visit the show, a number that keeps on growing, the event will remain close to the airport. In addition, shuttle routes will be created for those who want to v isit Por to’s historic centre. And last but not least, Exponor has a more diversified offer of bar and restaurant s e r v i c e s , w h i c h w i l l b e e xclusively focused on serving Modtissimo exhibitors and buyers. This way, the largest trade s h o w i n t h e P o r t u g u e s e t e xtile sector, and the oldest in
the entire Iberian Peninsula, returns to a home where “it was very happy”, concludes the organization. MODTISSIMO is the largest Por tuguese textile salon and the oldest in the entire Iberian Peninsula. Held twice a year – in February and in September/October –, it brings together the entire Por tuguese textile industry, from yarn producers to clothing manufac turers, serving as a showcase for one of the largest textile clusters in Europe. T h o u s a n d s o f v i s i t o r s n o rmally pass through its halls, e s p e c i a l l y i n t e r n at i o n a l b u yers, who, in addition to all t h e co m m e r c i a l o f f e r , a l s o have the oppor tunity to v isit t h e b e a u t i f u l c i t y o f Po r t o . t
PRESENCE AT FAIRS MAKES DAILY DAY GROW Af ter h av i n g regi stered a 50 % grow th i n sales i n 2020 , as a re su lt of sh i f ti n g produ c ti on f rom cloth i n g t o mask s, Dai ly Day i s opti mi sti c abou t th i s year. Wi th produ c ti on already f oc u sed on cloth i n g, i t w i ll be a year of gro w th . Su ppor ti n g f orecasts are th e good resu lts obtai n ed by th e bran d an d i ts moth er compan y, L agof ra, at Mu n i ch F abri c Star t, P remi ére V i si on an d, more re cen tly, at MODTI SSI MO. “ A t e v e r y t r a d e s h o w w e att e n d e d , w e f e l t t h at t h o s e w h o came to us were eager to prod u c e i n Po r t u g a l , b e c a u s e t h e y r e co g n i z e o u r q u a l i t y , a n d o u r ability to meet deadlines. The price is not an issue”, reveals A n a P r at a , p a r t n e r at D a i l y D a y . The ability to produce small q u a n t i t i e s a n d t o p r ov i d e t h e c u s t o m e r w i t h a co m p l e t e o f f e r inside its doors – from modell i n g t o t h e s e l e c t i o n o f r a w m at e r i a l s , i n c l u d i n g t h e c r e at i o n o f s a m p l e s – i s a no t h e r o f t h e co m pany's strengths, along with sustainability, which can be s e e n i n t h e G OT S c e r t i f i c at i o n , a n d i n c h o o s i n g Po r t u g u e s e f a brics and suppliers. Even becaus e , g u a r a n t e e s A n a P r at a , " c u s t o m e r s a r e i n c r e a s i n g l y co n c e r n e d w i t h w h at t h e y b u y " . t
n INTERVIEW Mário Jorge Machado He was elected president of ATP on the last day of the month of October, 2019. The former CEO of Adalberto group had a short-term challenge ahead: a decade that was one of the most virtuous cycles of the Portuguese textile industry was coming to an end. Circular economy, sustainability, innovation, reindustrialization, digitalization, and 4.0 industry were the buzzwords that were starting to consolidate and impact the future. Those were only the endogenous challenges: in the meantime COVID-19 pandemic arrived and everything became extremely difficult. At the end of a hybrid year, between lockdown and the reopening, a direct speech balance is imposed
PHOTO: RUI APOLINÁRIO
"THE SECTOR IS RECOVERING AT MULTIPLE SPEEDS"
There are two situations. One of them is that we don’t have complete industrial sectors in Europe, which evidenced our fragilities – the case of masks was a blatant example. It showed how shortsighted we were in not realizing there are strategic components for the balanced functioning of the economy. However, we are failing to learn the lessons.
t appeared in 2019 but its impact persisted throughout 2021: the pandemic and its metastases were present in decisions, performance, and even motivations of the textile sector, as in the entire industry.
Didn’t the short-sidedness pass?
What balance do you do of such a challenging year to the textile industry?
Is it manifested among entrepreneurs, political decision or all the parties involved?
We had the expectation that 2021 would be a little calmer, with the introduction of vaccination. However, it ended up being a year in which the pandemic wasn’t well solved – some constraints remain and with the new variants it may become even more complex – besides the difficulties experienced throughout the year. There was a break in supply chains, prices for energy and raw materialincreased, and… it was very challenging to the industry and whoever needs to maintain the entire productive chain. There were huge cost increases and many negotiation difficulties in passing these cost increases to customers. The textile and clothing sector is trapped in between huge suppliers – as the ones in the energetic sector, which are “price makers” – and the big brands with great negotiation ability, which weakens their position. These chain increases were not forecasted so apparently there isn’t a logical reason for them to happen, right?
We were unable to anticipate them. Nonetheless, even if we had managed to do so we would have done very little. With the sharp decrease in demand there were several units that closed, and whose opening doesn’t happen overnight. On the one hand the pandemic changed the portfolio of the most sold products and on the other it led some products to fall sharply. One example: at the moment several boats are being built to transport containers. However, many boats were knocked down. Knocking down a boat takes a week but building a new one takes two to three years. Is it also a matter of consumption?
There were great changes: home textiles present a growth of approximately 30%, knitwear around 10% and formal clothing is still below 2019 numbers, with negative values of 20%. It is a sector that is recovering at different speeds. At the moment there are companies that produce automotive textiles that are in lay-off. We are facing a situation we knew nothing about: there is demand, there is an installed ability but a small component is missing: microchips and all the supply chain which is being severely impacted. There is a virtuous side to it: may supply chains that use the Asian Southeast be outdated?
Unfortunately it hasn’t completely passed. We are still in a position in which we keep buying from Asia for a matter of 5 cents.
We are all responsible. Starting forthwith as consumers: we worry little with the supply chain when we find a cheaper product. At political decision level we can’t forbid a given importer to go and buy products in any area of the globe. The question has more to do with the Government’s strategic perception to understand in what ways they will convey global competitiveness to their countries’ economies. We are talking about strategic quotas. One example: a company exporting more than a certain amount of product to China is obliged to set up a factory in China otherwise it won’t be able to increase exports. If Europe took some similar measures, there would be a strategic supply guarantee. It would make the democracy purists’ hair rise…
We are talking about a strategic vision. If China has the vision that if the imports of a product are high it’s because it is essential for the economy, so, that part must be produced in China – why not us? From the strategic perspective it makes all sense. Is the European Commission doing everything they can, namely in the industrialization forefront?
There will only be reindustrialization if it incorporates some added value. Consider the case of individual protective equipment: at the moment the majority of what is sold in Europe is again produced in Asia, as Asia has lower prices than in Europe. We are repeating the same mistake: the equipment exists in Europe but it is not being used. transports are reducing this difference but producing in Asia is compensating again. Doesn’t taxation solve this issue?
In what concerns electrical energy Europe defends that whoever produces through non-renewable energy sources and exports to Europe has to pay a tax corresponding to the cost of the licence of CO2 emission. Allowing those who produce outside Europe with disregard for the additional costs introduced for European producers is deterring investments to be done in Europe. Is positive discrimination of European production another way?
It brings us back to the issue related to taxation at the entrance of frontiers. If in Europe we are producing in a way that is sustainable we should create a set of rules stating what sustainable production is and whoever produces outside these regulations should be taxed. We should implement in textiles the same we have in energy: a sustainability tax. If it is not so we run the risk of eliminating the textile and clothing industry from Europe, through the impracticability of sustainable production. On the other hand, and fortunately there are some consumers that already have a vision about the importance of the planet that some politicians still lack. Consider vehicles: why does the government concede a fiscal incentive to buyers of electric cars? This vision must be generalized to the entire sustainable production. Does Euratex have, at present, an important role?
The EU is preparing a strategic plan for the clothing and textile for the next decade that shall be ready in the beginning of next year, already with a delay. Euratex is the institution that has been negotiating and lobbying. There are two groups in Europe: the pro-environmental one and the pro-economic one. The first has a very reductive vision. The second defends the payment of a tax by people outside Europe that don’t produce in a sustainable way. Internally the year is marked by the Recovery and Resilience Plan, but also by the non-approval of the State Budget for 2022. How do you comment from the companies’ point of view?
Everything that involves instability makes company management harder. The expectation is for the year to end with a rise in exports, when compared to 2019, which shows the ability the sector has to adapt. It is its biggest virtue even though we live in an adverse regulatory and legislative framework, namely in what concerns labour laws, where more rigidity was introduced. Everything goes towards the rigidification of the system, which is opposite to what is necessary to economic growth. We must understand that the economy doesn’t grow by decree but by competitive degree. For example, the issue of minimum wage: its increase is not sustainable in productivity growth. In limit it may lead to job cuts…
It always does: it is studied that these raises ruin some companies; If the economy is growing unemployment is absorbed. In Portugal there is still an added risk: not having enough youngsters to replace retired people. Lastly, is 2021 a positive year or an year to forget?
In the textile sector and considering exports and the creation of wealth 2021 ends up being positive. It could have been better but it is generally positive. The big issue is 2022: how will we face the new challenges? Is the sector ready? Yes: it will continue to be a year of growth. t
the questions of Braz Costa CITEVE’s General Director How do you compare the challenges of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry with those assumed by the European TCI?
Both Europe and Portugal have as main goal sustainable and competitive fashion. What are Portugal’s specificities and how is it defending their interests with the European Union?
The textile and clothing industry has great importance for the Portuguese economy. It represents 18% of the transformation industry, which implies the country’s added responsibility. On the one hand we acted close to Euratex, where ATP has an important role, namely in the definition of a strategy for Europe, where we had significant intervention. On the other hand, we were also close to our government that, in turn, will impact European organizations.
José Robalo ANIL’s President Don’t you think that the government should provide more support to textile companies' participation in international meetings, which are highly costly to Portuguese standards?
It should not only support more, as the co-funding is very small, but it should also go beyond and support the creation of new collections considering them as innovation. These are proposals ATP has already brought to the governments’ knowledge. Do you think that the supports to the industry are enough considering the new pandemic threats?
In case of problems in the raw-materials supply, production or order losses the simplified lay-off regime should be applied in the same way it was used during the pandemic. ATP vividly opposed when this regime was prematurely removed last year.
ONWORK DEVELOPS LEADLESS X-RAY PROTECTION PRODUCTS
JF ALMEIDA RISES MINIMUM WAGE TO 740 EUROS As had already happened earlier this year, textile JF Almeida, decided not to wait for political decisions and increased by 40 euros the salary of all employees earning minimum wage, plus 4.33 euros in food allowance. In February, JF Almeida announced that the minimum wage within the company would be 700 euros. Thus, instead of the 705 euros minimum wage determined for next year, JF Almeida will pay 740 – the Government intends to reach the 750 euros minimum wage in 2023.
"Increases in transport, energy and labor costs are an explosive cocktail" Rui Martins Inovafil Administrator
INDITEX LOSES 5.6 BILLION IN THE STOCK MARKET DUE TO PABLO ISLA'S EXIT
The constant search for increasingly sustainable options led Onwork to invest in the development of new X-RAY protection products that do not use lead in their composition. Supported by Polyanswer, Lemar, CITEVE (The Portuguese Technological Center for the Textile and Clothing Industry), ICETA (Institute of Science, Technology and Agroenvironment of University of Porto) and the Faculties of Engineering and Science of University of Porto, Onwork developed a set of products that are more environmentally friendly, and lighter than the solutions currently on the market. A light smock, a smock with integrated thyroid protector, an apron, a thyroid protector, and a skirt and vest are the products developed by the consortium. The new solution is based on metallic oxides applied to coating. The selected fabric is made from SEAQUAL polyester, making the final pieces more sustainable.
“We are talking about products that are not cheap, so it makes perfect sense to reuse them, not only for the sake of the environment, but also for material resources. Especially because they can be easily sanitized”, adds Gilda Santos, CITEVE’s representative. “We went through several paths: we tried to incorporate the solution on the thread, but it didn't work; then we tried it on the inner membranes, and lastly in the coatings. In terms of protection, it is fully guaranteed. We carried out multiple tests, including in international laboratories”, says to T Jornal João Almeida, managing partner of Onwork. The project is currently undergoing patenting, and it is expected to be launched on the market by next year. The products developed were already available at international fairs A+A Dusseldorf, Medica, and at the Portuguese textile fair MODISSIMO, where it received curious looks and interest from visitors. t
The day after the CEO of the Inditex group, Pablo Isla, announced he was leaving, and would be replaced by Marta Ortega, the founder's daughter and largest shareholder, the capital market was particularly harsh: the holding's bonds fell 6.1%, and the group suddenly lost €5.6 billion. As soon as the market opened, the group was losing 5%, showing that investors had doubts about the replacement of Pablo Isla – by many considered the best manager in Spain.
thousand kilos of fabric were already saved by Smartex technology
MYCLOMA ORGANIZED SUSTAINABLE CHRISTMAS MARKET
EL CORTE INGLÉS INCREASES PRODUCTION IN PORTUGAL Enrique Hidalgo, who since March 2020 is general director of El Corte Inglés group in Portugal, said that the group "will increase production of our own brands" in Portuguese territory, thus responding to the logistical problems raised by transport difficulties that are being felt at a global level. “We are talking mainly about fashion products”, he explained in a statement to the newspaper Expresso. The general director of El
Corte Inglés in Portugal believes that the increase in online sales, which took place during the most acute periods of the pandemic, is here to stay: “In 2020, we broke the turnover record in Portugal, which also happened in online sales”. And specified: "The percentage of online sales went from 2.5% to 13.5%". With the supply problems becoming more serious in the textile and fashion area, the group has in proximity pro-
duction its new strategy. The big Spanish brands have been relocating part of their production from East Asia to the Iberian Peninsula, as Inditex did a few weeks ago. On the other hand, the group decided that by 2030, 40% of its high positions will be occupied by women. The El Corte group was the first private company in Portugal to receive the seal of inclusive employer. t
After the success of the June edition, MyCloma Fest returned to Porto on December 4th and 5th. The sustainable principle and the support for small made in Portugal projects were kept, in an edition full of Christmas spirit and great options for those looking for eco-friendly gifts at a good price. In addition to selling second-hand clothes, the event was attended by artists, small manufacturers, and musicians that brightened the event. This edition also brought a novelty: children’s clothing (0-4 years), with prices starting at 50 cents.
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2. TROFICOLOR COLLECTED GOOD CONTACTS FROM THE OCTOBER’S PARTICIPATION AT JITAC AND SAW THEIR CLIENTS TRUST STRENGTHENED. WHILE VISITING THE TRADE FAIR, THEY SHOWED CURIOSITY FOR THE NOVELTIES PRESENTED BY THE COMPANY
PHOTOSYNTHESIS by: Bebiana Rocha
1. LET’S START BY THE JAPANESE MARKET, WHICH SHOWED GREAT WILL TO DO BUSINESS WITH PORTUGAL. DURING JITAC, THE TRENDS FORUM COUNTED WITH A HUGE AFFLUENCE OF VISITORS
6. FALL SAFE’S NEW WORK AT HEIGHT ROPE EQUIPMENT CAUGHT THE ATTENTION OF ALL VISITORS TO A+A’S HALL 6 WHO REMAINED THERE TO GET TO KNOW OTHER NEWS OF THE COMPANY FROM VILA DO CONDE
AN AUTUMN RUN TO FAIRS The return to face-to-face trade fairs has been a life-saver to Portuguese textile companies which are thirsty to show the world their most recent innovations. From A+A and MEDICA to JITAC and Automotive, the balance seems to be the same: the smaller affluence of buyers was compensated by more qualified contacts ready to close business, which are great news to the From Portugal delegation
5. AFTER A FIRST CALM BUT INTERESTING DAY A. SAMPAIO & FILHOS KEPT ON GROWING, ESTABLISHING CONTACTS WITH NEW CLIENTS AND LEVELLING PRODUCTIVITY OF FORMER EDITIONS
10. THE FEELING OF MISSION ACCOMPLISHED WAS ALSO FELT AT MEDICA TRADE FAIR, WHERE HYDRUSTENT WAS PRESENT. THE MEDICAL DEVICE SUPPLIER TARGETED AT THE UROLOGY AND STOMATOLOGY SPECIALITIES MADE A POSITIVE BALANCE OF ITS PARTICIPATION
9. TMG’S NEWS ALSO SURPRISED VISITORS WHO DIDN’T TAKE LONG TO ACCUMULATE AROUND THE EXHIBITOR, AS WE CAN SEE IN THE IMAGE
4. SUSTAINABILITY APPLIED TO WORK CLOTHING WAS UNIFARDAS PROPOSAL AT A+A, IN ORDER TO CAPTURE THE FRENCH AND SPANISH MARKETS
3. IN DUSSELDORF, GERMANY, ENDUTEX MANAGED TO MEET CUSTOMERS AGAIN AND CAPTURE NEW ONES AT A+A, THE TRADE FAIR DEDICATED TO WORK AND SAFETY EQUIPMENT
8. STILL ON AUTOMOTIVE, TRIM NW BROUGHT ABOUT GREAT CONTACTS WITH NEW POTENTIAL CLIENTS IN GERMANY, FRANCE, SPAIN AND ITALY WHICH, IN THIS EDITION, PROVED TO BE MORE ASSERTIVE AND RECEPTIVE TO THE PROPOSALS OF THE COMPANY
7. THE TEXTILE FORUM FROM PORTUGAL AT AUTOMOTIVE MADE VISITORS STOP TO HAVE A LOOK. DEVELOPED BY CITEVE AND SELECTIVA MODA ASSOCIATION THE TRADE FAIR HIGHLIGHTED THE TECHNICAL AND INNOVATIVE PROFILE OF THE PORTUGUESE TEXTILES TARGETED TO THE AUTOMOTIVE SECTOR
12. SKYLAB, THE NEW INARBEL BRAND, FOR THE FIRST TIME AT MEDICA, STARTED CLOSING BUSINESS RAPIDLY, INCLUSIVE WITH AFRICAN BUYERS
11. OSIPOR, AN ASSIDUOUS PRESENCE IN MEDICA, REVEALS THAT THE SMALLER AFFLUENCE WAS COMPENSATED BY MORE QUALIFIED AND ASSERTIVE CONTACTS, THUS OVERCOMING THE INITIAL EXPECTATIONS
14. IN ORDER TO SUPPORT THE PORTUGUESE DELEGATION, EURICO BRILHANTE DIAS, SECRETARY OF STATE FOR INTERNATIONALIZATION, VISITED THE EXHIBITORS OF MEDICA. IN THE PHOTO HE APPEARS SURROUNDED BY LÍDIA NABAIS (PORTUGUESE CONSUL IN DUSSELDORF), BRAZ COSTA (CITEVE), VÂNIA CANHA (ASM/ATP), PAULO VAZ (AEP), MIGUEL CRESPO (AICEP/BERLIN), HIS DEPUTY CARLA TAVARES AND JOSÉ ARMINDO FERRAZ
HEIMTEXTIL DELAYED TO JUNE 2022 Due to the worsening of the pandemic situation in Germany in the last two weeks, which culminated in new restrictions on circulation in the country, the organization of Heimtextil decided to postpone the event, which was scheduled for January 10th to 14th, 2022. The new date set for the fair is June 21 and 24, 2022, in parallel with Techtextil/Texprocess. The organization also mentions that the Ambiente, Christmasworld, Creativeworld, Paperworld and Frankfurt Fashion Week events are still scheduled to take place in the dates previously set.
of Cristina Barros’ turnover comes from exports
MO UNVEILS JOYFULL CHRISTMAS COLLECTION
Living “our best Christmas” is the motto for MO’s new Christmas collection. The fashion brand from the SONAE universe suggests celebrating family with snowflakes, mistletoe and plaid patterns on jumpers, dresses and shirts. The collection is diversified, can be used either at home or to go out, and it's made for all ages. Reindeer, snowmen and the famous Santa Claus are printed on the new items, along with knit jumpers with the typical messages of the season, in the usual shades of red, white and green.t
FARFETCH BUYS LUXCLUSIF TO LEAD IN SECOND-HAND LUXURY Farfetch acquired second-hand luxury fashion retail platform Luxclusif. Together, says the company led by José Neves, they become the global platform for second-hand luxury products, both for consumers and industry partners. This partnership, whose figures are not disclosed, "allows Farfetch to accelerate its abilities in the resale business through the development of technology and services that include pricing automation and rapid expansion, both geographically and in resale, namely Farfetch Second Life“, refers the company in the statement. Clarifying that the purchase comes after several years of collaboration between the two companies, Farfetch also says that the association of Luxclusif will allow the company to “acquire, authenticate and sell second-hand luxury products to and from auctions, retailers, e-commerce platforms, and stores around the world“. The luxury fashion trading platform also predicts that “together, Farfetch and Luxclusif can
leverage their resources, positioning themselves as global platform for second-hand luxury goods, whether for consumers or partners in the luxury fashion industry”, adds the document. The relationship between the two companies began with a startup acceleration program promoted by Farfetch, and continued through Farfetch Second Life reseller service. According to the statement, Luxclusif “provided its platform in Europe to authenticate, price and then sell second-hand products submitted by customers to the program, in exchange for Farfetch credits”. Now, Luxclusif will operate on Farfetch Second Life platform, which is currently available in the Middle East, United States of America, and Europe. “Our goal is to be the leading global second-hand luxury fashion platform. This market is growing rapidly, and is increasingly important to luxury customers and to the luxury fashion industry as a whole”, says Farfetch's commercial and sustainability director, Giorgio Belloli. t
ITMF AWARDS IN 2022 SUPPORTS SUSTAINABILITY AND COOPERATION The International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) is supporting and promoting environmental, social and economic sustainable production, having created an annual award that will distinguish the best practices in
these areas: in 2022, the confederation will present the ITMF awards in the categories "Sustainability and Innovation" and "International Cooperation". With the 'Innovation and Sustainability' award, ITMF
intends to “highlight sustainable and innovative achievements in the textile industry, with a focus on innovation, design, development and production under the strictest standards of sustainability and respect for the environment”. t
ITMF REGISTERS HIGH EXPECTATIONS FOR TEXTILES IN NOVEMBER In a survey with the participation of 330 companies from around the world, ITMF found that “the situation and expectations for business are very good along the global textile value chain”. This is the 11th assessment by the International Textile Industry Federation on the business situation in a pandemic context, and the indicators show the sector's capacity to reinvent itself and return to a strong industrial and commercial activity. “On average, across all regions and segments, the business situation has improved significantly since the previous survey in September,” notes ITMF.
"At Impetus Group, we want to be vertical, sustainable and transparent" Susana Serrano Acatel CEO
GUIMARÃES MARCA FASHION SHOW & SHOWCASE “CREATES NEW SYNERGIES”
It was under the motto “optimize and create new and surprising synergies” that the second edition of Guimarães Marca Fashion Festival took place, bringing together 25 brands from Guimarães in the former premises of ASA factory. The highlight of the event that seeks to enhance Guimarães products was the Fashion Show & Showcase, developed with the curatorship and design of designer Katty Xiomara. Textile companies, from home textiles to clothing, but also footwear, frozen fish or detergent brands, were part of the Showcase & Fashion Show of the 2nd edition of Guimarães Marca Fashion Festival.
OPINION THE MAGNA STORM Paulo Vaz AEP’s Administrator and ATP’s Consultant
A LABEL TO PROMOTE EUROPEAN PRODUCTION ATP Portuguese Textile and Clothing Association
I have recently written, in a weekly journal specialized in economic affairs, that we were heading towards a perfect storm; better still, facing the circumstances and the convergence of happenings, more than a perfect storm. An economic crisis together with a sanitary crisis, the disruption of supply chains, the exponential increase of prices in raw-materials, energy, transports and wages, corresponding to the clear shortage of all these productive factors simultaneously is the most evident expression of an unexpected political crisis, anticipating a highly likely financial crisis. The increase in inflation will determine the take off of the cost of money in international markets and the most indebted countries, such as Portugal, will be on the forefront of its negative impact, which will culminate in a social crisis. The most vulnerable will always be the ones to suffer the consequences of the preceding disparities. In this context, transformation industries such as textile and clothing are more exposed to this magna storm. They lack raw-materials, sacrifice business margins, which are already short, and endure the sharp increase of the price of transport, energy and even stand the inflation in wages, competing for talent without any possibility of reflecting the increase of production factors in products and services, at least on the short term and in a fair proportion. The world has changed drastically and the pandemic was a mere catalyser of the transformation that was already in course. Fashion industry, as already mentioned, was and is under pressure as the shift in values of new generations of consumers will prove devastating to the more classic business models and to those who resist or ignore change.
The textile and fashion business is very complex and involves several stages, from the harvest of natural raw materials to the production of synthetic or artificial fibres, its processing and transformation into threads, knit, TNT and manufacturing, not forgetting dying and other trimmings essential in the obtention of quality , functionality or creative characteristics of the textile and clothing products. However, the label of these products says nothing regarding this entire process. ETIC – European Textile Identity Card – was created to fill this gap. The focus of ETIC labelling system is to allow consumers to know where the main stages of the manufacturing process took place: spinning, weaving/knit-
It is a given factthat the Portuguese textile and clothing industry has many arguments to prevail, as the pandemic proved in many solid, well managed, resilient, proactive and innovative companies. However, it also revealed that there is a part of the production sector that doesn’t share the same skills and will disappear in the short term. The market, under the pressure of the crisis, works even better by expelling those who are unable to adapt and evolve so that the best can make more progress. The scenarios for the textile and clothing industry until 2030 are far from being catastrophic but will not allow complacency for those who don’t do their homework: betting only in efficiency without valuing creativity or innovation will only contribute to expand the suffering of survival without a final award. The same goes for making a difference through knowledge or design, without guaranteeing the strength of organizations’ capitalization and productivity of factors, which may mean a pointless and resource-wasting exercise without consequence. We will be fewer than we are, we will have to do well with much less, risking the cluster’s restructuring, strengthening the sector upstream and relocating the activities downstream where it is still easy to plentiful human resources at lower costs and preferably close. It is common to hear that after the storm comes the sun. The uncertain times we are currently facing will come to an end. However, I don’t believe we will return to the stage we were in the beginning of 2020. We had worse things in the past and we amazed. There is no reason for not repeating once more the performance of our best nature. t
ting, trimming and manufacturing. In what concerns clothing, ETIC label will be used solely and exclusively in garments that may guarantee that two or more of the main product’s stages are Made in EU, an important choice as the European Union established the most restrictive production patterns in the world to protect the environment, human health and rights. ETIC is a private and voluntary initiative on behalf of the European Industry, through which companies may identify the origin of their products through a label, strengthening the communication of their commitments with social, ethical and environmental values. All manufacturers of the textile pro-
duction chain and fashion brands that produce in the European Union will now have a tool to label their products, tell the story of the productive process providing, on the one hand, a reply to consumer’s desire for a bigger traceability, more information and transparency in the chain of value and, on the other hand, valuing and distinguishing European production. ETIC is a collective brand, created and managed by ETIC European Textile Identity Card Association, created by associations representative of the main textile and fashion producing countries in EU: Italy, France, Belgium, Spain and Portugal. In Portugal ETIC is represented by ATP – Portuguese Textile and Clothing Association. t