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Moon Montana & Wyoming: With Yellowstone, Grand Teton & Glacier National Parks: Road Trips, Outdoor Adventures, Wildlife Viewing 5th Edition Carter G. Walker

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MONTANA & WYOMING

CARTER G. WALKER

Contents

Discover Montana & Wyoming

Billings and the Big Open

Great Falls and the Rocky Mountain Front

Glacier National Park

Missoula and Western Montana

Butte, Helena, and Southwest Montana

Bozeman and the Gateway to Yellowstone

Yellowstone National Park

Grand Teton National Park

Jackson Hole, Cody, and the Wind Rivers

Sheridan and Northeast Wyoming

Southern Wyoming

Background

Essentials

Index

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Acknowledgments

Copyright

Althougheveryeffortwasmadetomakesuretheinformationin thisbookwasaccuratewhengoingtopress,researchwas impactedbytheCOVID-19pandemicandthingsmayhave changedsincethetimeofwriting.Besuretoconfirmspecific details,likeopeninghours,closures,andtravelguidelinesand restrictions,whenmakingyourtravelplans.Formoredetailed information,seeclickhere.

A cowboy at the Miles City Bucking Horse Sale relics of Montana’s agricultural heritage

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

Seven-Day Glacier Road Trip

GET YOURSELF IN HOT WATER

INDIGENOUS HERITAGE

Cowboys, Hot Springs, and Wide-Open Spaces

SMALL TOWN RODEOS: THE BIGGEST PARTIES IN THE WEST

TOP 11 HIKES fall in Wyoming.

The dramatic landscapes of Montana and Wyoming—from soaring mountains and narrow valleys to sweeping plains—were carved over eons by water, wind, fire, and ice. The culture was also shaped by conflict: between those who were from here and those who were not; those who valued the land itself and those who sought its riches, which today include open space, recreational opportunities, and plain old natural beauty. Although their distinct histories—both natural and cultural—are evident everywhere, not just tucked away in dusty museums, these states continue to redefine themselves. Wyoming’s Tetons thrust skyward at the rate of an inch or so each year. Montana’s blue-ribbon trout streams, tumbling and falling, etch themselves ever deeper into green and gold valleys. The populations are perpetually shifting too, bringing new ideas, new conflicts, new residents, and an evolving culture.

Montana is as vast as the big sky that blankets it, rich with natural resources—fertile soil, rivers, coal, gold, forests, wind—and overflowing with beauty. From Glacier National Park to the Little Bighorn, its sites are enchanting, and sometimes haunting. Its communities are diverse too, with pioneer traditions embraced by new generations of transplants in cities like Whitefish, where ski bums and artists mingle with fifth-generation ranchers. Then there are tiny towns like Loma, at the confluence of the Milk and Marias Rivers, where the headline is still that Lewis and Clark camped just south of town in 1805. Montana’s cities make us aware of the constant and exponential growth in the American West, while little dots on the map like Loma give us hope for its almost magical timelessness.

skiing in Montana’s Snowbowl fresh flowers at a farmers market

Yellowstone’s Grand Prismatic Spring

Embodied by the bucking bronco on its license plates, Wyoming is a child’s cowboy fantasy come to life, with rodeos aplenty and dude

ranches where even city slickers can try their hand at riding and roping. But what strikes people most about Wyoming is its authenticity. The harsh climate and isolation that make Wyoming the least populated state in the union result in an uncommon grace in its residents. It’s expressed not just in the weathered creases on their faces but in the way they do business and welcome visitors. There is glitz here too, in places like Jackson Hole and Cody, but it doesn’t distract from the essence of Wyoming. Those towns are but a flash of silver, the shiny buckle on a well-worn belt.

Separated by history, culture, and sometimes even politics, Montana and Wyoming are still agreeable neighbors, bound together by the forces of nature that make them so captivating.

Mormon Row in Grand Teton National Park

cutthroat trout, the state fish of Wyoming. grizzly bear in Glacier National Park

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Spot Wildlife in Yellowstone National Park: Yellowstone is a wonderland of wildlife. Visit Lamar Valley for the chance to see bears, bison, and bighorn sheep. This is also the best place to look for wolves.

2 Hike in Glacier National Park: Glacier is a hiker’s paradise. Head to the west side of the park to explore its beloved trails.

3 Go on an Adventure in Grand Teton National Park: With the towering Tetons a near constant backdrop, the land here lends itself to superb outdoor recreation.

4 Visit a Dude Ranch: From rustic to luxe, there are dude ranches across the West where guests can saddle up and ride for their supper—or just ride to their heart’s content.

5 Go Skiing: Skiing in Montana and Wyoming is a win-win: phenomenal terrain without the lines of big-name places. Hit up a ski resort like Whitefish Mountain Resort or Maverick Mountain, or stay in a true ski town, like Jackson Hole.

6 Take to the River: Kayak or canoe on Oxbow Bend in Grand Teton, go white-water rafting on the Snake River, or try fishing at the Big Hole River.

7 Scenic Drives: The journey is the main event on Going-to-theSun Road (pictured), Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, and Cloud Peak Skyway.

8 Learn about Indigenous Cultures: With seven reservations scattered across Montana, and one in Wyoming, you can go to powwows, visit museums, and learn about Indigenous traditions.

9 Soak in the Hot Springs: From resort-style pools and thermally heated rivers to entire towns built on hot springs, this region offers infinite ways to take a dip.

10 See the Glaciers—While You Still Can: Head to Glacier National Park’s sublime Many Glacier and Grinnell Glacier (pictured) before they’re gone.

Planning Your Trip

Where to Go

Billings and the Big Open

Beyond Billings, the state’s largest and most industrial city, much of eastern Montana is made up of small but tightly knit communities separated by vast swaths of wide-open country. It’s also where four of the state’s seven Indian reservations can be found. The landscapes are varied and dramatic—from the rimrocks in Billings and the rolling hills around the Little Bighorn Battlefield to the badlands of Makoshika State Park outside Glendive.

Great Falls and the Rocky Mountain Front

The vast plains erupt into soaring peaks along the Rocky Mountain Front. The Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex is one of the most spectacular and isolated mountainous areas in the Lower 48. Tiny towns like Choteau and Fort Benton offer a charming sense of community, along with fascinating sites like dinosaur mecca Egg Mountain and lovely historic hotels. Straddling the division between mountains and plains, Great Falls boasts two of the state’s best museums: the C. M. Russell Museum and Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center.

Jagged peaks soar skyward from this Wyoming basin.

Glacier National Park

Known as the “Crown of the Continent,” Glacier National Park embodies the Montana you’ve always imagined: rugged mountains piercing the sky, crystalline lakes and plunging waterfalls, abundant wildlife, gravity-defying roads, and miles upon miles of trails. For now, the park still lays claim to 25 glaciers.

Missoula and Western Montana

Western Montana shows off with lush green mountain ranges and towering forests. In the far north, Whitefish is the ultimate mountain town, a skier’s paradise. Just south, glittering Flathead Lake is Montana’s Riviera, with sprawling mansions and luxurious lodges at water’s edge. The tiny hamlet of Bigfork serves up a surprisingly fine selection of both culture and cuisine, not to mention recreation. The scenic National Bison Range in Moiese can be visited en route to Missoula, a cultural hub and home of the

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