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Ottoman 19 European Capital of Culture monuments
The Turks ruled Pécs between 1529 and 1686, leaving a handful of remarkable examples of Islamic architecture. The main one, the Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim, is the city’s most famous building, dotted with Islamic detail despite having been reconverted to a Catholic church after the Turks departed. The crescent moon of Islam and the Christian cross are still visible on the cupola. Look out also for the minaret on Kórház tér.
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Csillag restaurantP
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We recommend the Csillag (‘Star’) not because it offers the best cuisine in town – although aficionados of its signature sizzling breaded and deep fried pork liver might disagree. We choose it because you can’t say you’ve been to Pécs without going to the Csillag, with its authentically retro chequered plastic tablecloths, mosaic tile floor and vinyl-era curtains. Wonderfully friendly staff too. Hungária utca 27(314 852).
No getting away from it, Pécs2010 is transforming the city for the better and encouraging the arrival of thousands of foreign visitors. Shows, exhibitions, festivals and concerts will be staged throughout the year, as squares, parks and a cultural quarter enjoy major renovations. In summer, the city will become the open-air setting for any number of events and performances, lending Pécs a Mediterranean feel. www.pecs2010.hu
20 Roof terrace, Hotel Palatinus Rela x
18 Pécs by night Easy-going Pécs offers scores of after-dark options for live music, DJs and casual imbibery, giving the 24-hour clock its best shot. A significant and thirsty student population guarantees a wicked drinking culture all year round, but once spring kicks in there’s usually romance in the air too. Király utca allows for convivial terrace sipping in the early evening, with the Toxic cellar punk club (see p27) a handy past-midnight option. On the other side of Széchenyi tér, Hungária utca hosts all-night reverie in the shape of Kino (see p19), Zöld (see p17) and the ‘Betonos’.
Built in the Golden Age, famously visited by a century’s worth of luminaries (note the plaque to composer Béla Bartók), the landmark Palatinus is all gilt and glitz around its sumptuous lobby, where you’ll find its restaurant of similar character. One feature remains hidden though: head up to the top floor for its modest sauna and massage room, beside which is a door leading out to the roof terrace. Here, at eye level with the tops of Baroque churches and gazing out onto the Mecsek Hills, you can sunbathe on the loungers while sipping a glass of fine Villány wine. A priceless feature also available to guests of other Danubius hotels in town. Király utca 5 (889 400/www.danubiushotels.hu). April 2010 Time Out Pécs 11