E N I Z A G A M T U O E M E TI L B A L I A V NOW A … T S E P A D IN BU
ide ies worldw it c r e th o and 27
TIME OUT THE WORLD’S LIVING GUIDE
SY DN EY
DE LH I
BE IJI NG
AL M AT Y
ST .P ET ER SB UR G M OS CO W
LO ND O AM N ST ER DA M BU DA PE BU ST CH IS AR TA ES K CY NB T IE UL BE PR V IR US UT
SH AN GH AI
DU BA I
M UM BE BA NG I AL UR U
DH AB I
HO KU NG AL SI A KO NG LU NG M AP JA PU KA OR R RT E A
TE LA VI V
BA RC EL ON A
LI SB ON
CH IC AG O
Contents April 2010 Spring arrival
Regulars Highlights Festivals, events and gigs Trafik Main square reopens My Pécs Famous footballer speaks
Features Pécs top 20 The best things to do and see
Food & Drink
Wild garlic season Best rests & bars Scores of spots assessed Reviews Bagolyvár & Kino Café Vine of the month Local Kékfrankos
Around Town Rare Munkácsy show ‘Krétakör majális’ Three-day picnic in a mine shaft
The Pécs top 20... …we had quite a few difficulties gathering the best 20 things about Pécs. Not because it was hard to find 20, but we could have found five score or more. We had to make some tough decisions in our selection process. For the things chosen, however, we take full responsibility. If you take your time to see, sample and experience some of our recommendations, you should leave Pécs loaded with positive vibes, and keen to return to the European Capital of Culture. One thing you won’t find in the listing is just unfolding. Spring in Pécs. Sitting around on any downtown café terrace and soaking up the first warm rays of the seasonal sun is just the best thing to do. While you’re sipping your coffee or a cool beer, attractive, fashionable locals pass or stop and chat, evidence of the town’s Mediterranean feel and ethnic mix of Magyar, Balkan, Germanic and exotic. So, enjoy Pécs, enjoy spring and enjoy the April issue of Time Out Pécs. We are still looking forward to receiving your comments sent to email@example.com – technical difficulties meant that some items were lost last time, so please resend! All is now back in operation – much like the outdoor life of the city itself. András Papp, Editor, Time Out Pécs
Film Scorsese & Sarandon New movies in town
Music & Nightlife PEN Festival Four days of music and partying
Performing Arts Dance Marathon International folk get-together Pécs Balett turns 50 Gala show in town
4 7 30
13 16 19 20
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 3
Highlights April Sat 3 Dance house by the Pyrgos orchestra & dance ensemble Ifjúsági Ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13). 6pm Closing programme of the Greek Festival. FREE Jake La Botz (USA) Pécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 8pm Garage-blues guitar daredevil from Hollywood.
Mon 5 Erdődy Chamber group Basilica (Dóm tér). 8pm.
Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra concert Basilica (Dóm tér). 7.30pm Guests: Olivier Latry (Fr) – organ, Mariann Váradi, Anikó Varga.
Wed Apr 14-Wed May 12
Sat Apr 10-Mon May 10
Exhibition of painter László Sipos Origó-Ház (Komlói út 94-98).
Ravenna Mosaic Exhibition Dóm Museum (Szent István tér). Highly acclaimed travelling exhibition displays copies of Italian mosaics.
Sun 11 ‘Szép tavasz, szép nyár’ Csontváry Museum (Janus Pannonius utca 11). 4pm. Performance by the Mecsek Choir and the Béla Bartók Women’s Choir.
Mon 12 Philip Pickett & the Musicians of the Globe (UK): Shakespeare’s Musick Hotel Palatinus (Király utca). 7pm. Elizabethan hits.
The Braindogs Pécsi Est Café (Rákóczi út 46). 8pm Tom Waits songs performed by an international supergroup.
Andrea Rost: Songs of Pannonia Dr Romhányi György Aula(Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm. Soprano performs with Szilvia Bognár, Mátyás Bolya, Péter Glaser, Miklós Lukács, Balázs Szokolay Dongó and Budapest Klezmer Band.
Fri 9 Váradi Roma Café concert Művészetek Háza (Széchenyi tér 7-8). 7.30pm Ghymes: Álombálom Uránia Cinema (Hungária út 19). 7.30pm. World-music act launch new album.
Fri 9-Sun 11 Fringe Festival Pécsi Est Café, Ifjúsági Ház, other venues. See p23.
Sat 10 Ifj Szakcsi Lakatos Béla Jazz Trio concert Rácz Aladár Közösségi Ház (József Attila utca 4). 3.30pm
4 Time Out Pécs April 2010
DJ Krush April 21-24, Pécs University Days, Bőrgyár
May & beyond Wed May 5
World dance day - gala April 29 7pm, Nemzeti Színház
for d ance
Wed 21-Sat 24
Mon Apr 26-Sat May 1
Pécs University Days Bőrgyár (Siklósi út 22). The most significant music festival of the region is organised by Pécs University and takes place in an abandoned factory near the city centre. The fourday event’s main performers are Tito & Tarantula (USA), DJ Krush (Japan), Les Touffes Krétiennes (Fr), Client (UK), the Urban Voodoo Machine (UK) and the Toasters (USA). See p26.
Pécs Dance Marathon Throughout Pécs. Various times. See p28.
Thur May 13-Thur May 20
Fri 23-Sun 25
Ederlezi Zion Pécs (Zsolnay Vilmos út 109). St George Day spring festival with cooking, workshops, dance house and traditional Gypsy music.
eUropemania Rókus-domb A festival of fresh and lively artistic and musical productions from Hungary and abroad. Day of Open Churches Various Pécs churches Sacred and contemporary music throughout town.
Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra concert Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7.30pm Guest: Henning Kraggerud (Nor) – violin.
Thu May 6-Sun May 9
Sun May 9
11th National & International Meeting of Railway Brass Bands Throughout Pécs. Various times.
Lord of the Dance Lauber Dezső Sportcsarnok (Dr Veress Endre út 10). Original Irish production and dance performance combining traditional and modern Irish music to entertaining effect.
Cotton Club Singers & Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra concert Dr Romhányi György Aula (Medical University, Szigeti út). 7.30pm World dance day – Gala Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm
Turkish movie week Apolló Cinema (Perczel M utca 22); Uránia Cinema (Hungária út 19).
Sun May 9-Sat May 29 A Journey around the Turkish Crescent Various venues Festival presenting the culture of Turkey.
Tue May 18-Wed Aug 18
Flavours from Tolna County Kultúrkert (Nyugati várfalsétány). 4pm Gastronomic programme.
Fri Apr 30-Sun May 2 Krétakör picninc Széchenyi-akna. See p23.
Fri Apr 30-Sun June 6 József Angster & Angster Organ Manufactory Vasváry-ház (Király utca 19) Representative exhibition of the work of organ-maker József Angster. The exhibition introduces us step-by-step to 80 years of Angster instrument manufacture, which created 1,300 organs important to the musical life of Hungary.
Thur May 20-Sat May 22 Ennio Marchetto: Ennio Nemzeti Színház (Színház tér). 7pm One hour of mimickery by world-famous Italian comedian.
Alfons Mucha exhibition Pécsi Galéria (Széchenyi tér). Retrospective show of this famous Czech artist (1860-1939).
21st Pécs Folk Days Various venues Batta Dem – 5th Pécs International Reggae Festival Ifjúsági Ház (Nagy Lajos király útja 13).
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 5
Trafik Where Pécs is the star
Tubes Hill – ‘Radar-free Tubes’ by József Hubay Supreme Court suspends construction of the radar station on Tubes Hill
It’s a living – student, web editor Dávid Bálint Why did you decide to study in Pécs? I applied to Pécs and Budapest, and I didn’t get into Budapest. My aim was to go somewhere relatively far from home, to try to stand on my own two feet. My interest was (and is) journalism, and I heard only compliments about the Department of Communications here. What is college life like? It’s a liberating madness. I tested the boundaries, physically, mentally, spiritually. Afterwards I began looking for a happy balance, or at least 6 Time Out Pécs April 2010
something between dying young and growing old way too soon. What do you do outside of class? I’m certainly not bored. In most cases I stay at the campus, dealing with the communications of the Student Body, and editing the faculties’ print and online journal. Since January I’ve also been the news editor of a new website called PécsiStop. In a more active period, I even managed to write literature. What are your plans after graduating? The press is my primary interest. I’ve spent my last few years in
journalism, and I’m trying to be independent. As a student, how do you look at Pécs University Days? It’s the great entertaining beyond in the midst of term, four days of stepping out of reality, with the option to step back in it. The rocky horror picture show, if you like. How do you expect to get the most out of it? I couldn’t miss it even if I wanted to, because of my work. For me, the most anticipated acts are Subscribe, Isten Háta Mögött and Timur Lenk.
Hidden Pécs The Sistine Chapel As you enter the busy Pécsi Est Café, sports bar, restaurant and live venue in one, you might expect music and partying – but not the Sistine Chapel. Yet tucked in behind the main space, by the side bar, above the corridor leading to the toilets, is a version of Michelangelo’s ceiling, interpreted by local comic-strip artist Balázs Gróf. This bright fresco, a phenomenon of Pécs sub-culture, keeps to the spirit of the original composition. Reconfigured, the Creation element depicts Motörhead frontman Lemmy
as God; the creation concerned is Hungarian comic-book hero, Flinter. Given this, contact between index fingers wouldn’t be suitable: Gróf has used large pints of beer instead. Study the ceiling more carefully and you’ll find punks, break dancers, DJs under attack from squirt-guns, with Frank Zappa conducting the cast, all mimicking the poses and movements of Michelangelo’s original characters. The Great Flood scene is set around Széchenyi tér, the Mosque surrounded by water, and a beach of swim-suited teens dancing to Flinter’s beats. Ground floor, Kereskedők Háza shopping centre, Rákóczi út 46.
Main square unveiled of Culture. After that night, the square was closed as its renovation For most of this winter, the focal point had to be restarted because of some of the city was wrapped in a labyrinth problems caused in its earlier rebuilding. Now, after weeks of jackof fencing, surrounded by workers and delicately negotiated by pedestri- hammers and delicate negotiations, the new face of Széchényi tér will be ans. The one exception was, naturalunveiled in April. The square’s first ly, for New Year’s Eve, and the one role will be acting as host to a number night in mid-January when the Opening Ceremony was held here to of shows connected with the forthcoming Fringe Festival (see p23). launch Pécs2010, European Capital
Széchenyi tér to open in April
Local heroes Johann Georg Lickl
Perhaps no one was more eminent in the musical life of 19th-century Pécs than Johann Georg Lickl, whose works are being performed for the first time in Pécs Basilica by the Erdődy Chamber Orchestra on April 5. Choirmaster and composer Lickl was born in 1796 in Kroneuburg, Lower Austria, and came to Pécs in 1807 as choirmaster, organist and composer of the Pécs Basilica. Lickl studied under Haydn; they performed eight of his operas in Vienna, including the famous ‘Magic Arrow’ (‘Varázsnyíl’). During his time in Pécs, Lickl created 149 compositions. His most significant achievement in the social life of the city was the establishment of the Association of Musicians and Vocalists (Tonkünstler und Choralisten Gesellschaft) in 1811, dedicated to help musicians widows and orphans – of which he was one. The first concert on December 9, 1811 in the Basilica is regarded as the forefather of symphony orchestra in Pécs, and a direct line can be linked to today’s Pannon Philharmonic Orchestra. Towards the end of his life, he used only his Hungarian name, János György Lickl. He died in 1843. In 1995, the Pécs Symphony Orchestra and Chamber Choir, conducted by Howard Williams, recorded his compositions Mass in F major and Requiem in C minor as a world CD-premiere. It is available from Mobidisc CD, Ferencesek utcája 30. April 2010 Time Out Pécs 7
The European Capital of Culture is full of attractive and unusual treasures whatever the time of year. Here in no particular order we choose our favourite 20.
Q BtB it t as e
Open from April 9, this open-air pub, restaurant, concert venue and park is essential to spring and summer in Pécs. Accessed from Kórház tér or Esze Tamás utca at the top of the Western City Wall Promenade, here you’ll find live jazz, tasty grills, cold beer and peace and quiet. Tables tend to fill up fast. Daily 10am-midnight.
Here is where time stands still. This attraction has hardly changed since being built in 1961 – don’t expect modern-day white-knuckle rides or state-of-the-art video machines. Wandering past the bumper cars and through the haunted house is like walking through time. Dömörkapu tér 1; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. 8 Time Out Pécs April 2010
Central Market Hall & flea market
Right in the heart of town, the Central Market Hall is as essential to Pécs as its mosques. Any culinar y tour of Pécs starts here, revealing much about the city’s patchwork histor y. Regulars head to the sausage stands for authentic liver sausage (májashurka) or sausage (kolbász). After a demanding Saturday night, locals go to Vásártér, a large Sunday-only openair market for retro treasures. You can also devour lángos, deep-fried flat bread the size and consistency of your duvet. Ask the guy chuck on some cheese and sour cream (sajtos-tejfölös). Central Market Hall: BajcsyZsilinszky utca 25, Mon-Fri 5am-5pm, Sat 5am-noon; Flea Market: Móra Ferenc utca 1, Sun 5am-2pm.
4Tettye One of the most picturesque places around Pécs comprises charming ruins, a park, a cave, arboretum and a restaurant (reached by bus No 33) providing peace and relaxation for the whole day. It’s family-friendly too, with a newly renovated play area. Open-air theatre shows and concerts are given on summer evenings. Picturesque Havi Hill is also close by.
5 Mecsextrém Park
8 Nap Hostel For tourists staying here on a budget, this award-winning hostel is right in the centre of town. Murals on the stairs and in the main room illustrate city symbols, some visible from the balcony as you sip your morning coffee in the sunshine. The owner will be at pains to provide fresh eggs and produce for breakfast, and even take you on a night’s bar crawl – by bike. Clean, comfortable rooms, too. Király utca 23 (950 684). www.naphostel.com
Havi Hill at twilight
Take bus No 33 to its terminus and aim to get there for twilight. Look for the cross on the cliff, climb up to it and your reward will be a stunning, panoramic view as sun sets over the town below your feet. Don’t forget to take a bottle of wine with you.
Zorb exper ie it
Atop the Mecsek Hills, Árpádtető, in fact, is the Mecsextrém adventure park for all kinds of sport and outdoor activities – an all-weather bob track, Alpine rope park, climbing wall, rope course, just to mention a few. Don’t forget to bring your helmets – or hire them here. Árpádtető, www.mecsextrem.hu
6 Szent István tér Of all the pretty downtown squares we could recommend, Szent István tér stands out. On it or near it are the Basilica, Cella Septichora, the City Wall Promenade, Barbakán, the Csontváry Museum and Museum Street. Two opposing landmark venues – the upscale Pezsgőház and the downbeat Káptalan borozó (aka ‘Papucs’) – provide entertaining sustenance. Lively by day and night from spring through autumn, Szent István tér allows for casual rendezvous around historic ruins and attractive fountains.
Hiking in the Mecsek Hills
Pécs is conveniently surrounded by the Mecsek Hills, allowing for a whole range of outdoor activities. The most obvious is hiking, with signposted trails leading every which way – some with romantic spots hidden nearby. Our recommended one would be the one starting at Misina, then to the TV Tower (accessed by bus No 35), the Rotary Promenade and back to the TV Tower; or from Dömörkapu to Misina, and then to Kistubes, Tubes and Mandulás.
According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is Europe’s tallest uninhabited building – a source of curiosity and bizarre pride. Residents moved out of this 25-storey monster in 1989 as it was suspected to be unsound. Today it is still standing as a home to hundreds of pigeons while decades-long debates continue unabated over its future. Hungária út 53. April 2010 Time Out Pécs 9
14 Renovated playgrounds
Kicking off with the Spring Festival in mid-March, Pécs plays year-round host to literally scores of festivals, whether it’s European Capital of Culture or not. Highlights in May include the Pécs National Theatre Festival and the Batta Dem Reggae Festival, Sétatér Festival in June, International Culture Week and Rockmaraton in July, September’s Heritage Festival, Cinepécs – International Film Festival in October and the Balkan World Music Festival in November.
Women’s basketball Within the framework of the city’s role as European Capital of Culture, several playgrounds and squares have been renovated or are undergoing renovation. The best of these are at Tettye, Uránváros at Szilárd Leó Park and Köztársaság tér. The city has never been so family-friendly.
15 Zsolnay Museum In Pécs women’s basketball is a religion. Local team MiZo Pécs 2010 are ten-time Hungarian champions, tentime Hungarian Cup winners and twice Euroliga bronze medallists. At home games, thousands of their fanatical followers guarantee a fiery atmosphere. This is worth experiencing as a local phenomenon even if basketball isn’t your thing. Lauber Dezső Sportcsarnok, Dr Veres Endre utca 10, (312 446/ www.mizopecsbasketball.hu).
13 TV Tower
the oy enj
The 197-metre TV Tower is one of the symbols of the city. A lift whisks you up to a café and an observation area. The terrace above the café offers a fabulous panorama of town and the surrounding Mecsek Hills. Within the café is a dinosaur exhibition with a huge, lifesize model of this once local resident. Misinatető (336 900). 10 Time Out Pécs April 2010
The name most synonymous with Pécs is Zsolnay, renowned manufacturer of ceramics and glazed tiles. It is fitting, then, that the most impressive renovation for Pécs2010 is this historic attraction in an apartment block dating back to medieval times. The gallery contains pieces created at the Zsolnay Factory from the 1870s until World War I, with an interactive video display, furnishings and a photographic history of the brand. The museum shop sells authentic Zsolnay items. Káptalan utca 2 (514 040/http://kepzo.jpm.hu).
Ottoman 19 European Capital of Culture monuments
The Turks ruled Pécs between 1529 and 1686, leaving a handful of remarkable examples of Islamic architecture. The main one, the Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim, is the city’s most famous building, dotted with Islamic detail despite having been reconverted to a Catholic church after the Turks departed. The crescent moon of Islam and the Christian cross are still visible on the cupola. Look out also for the minaret on Kórház tér.
We recommend the Csillag (‘Star’) not because it offers the best cuisine in town – although aficionados of its signature sizzling breaded and deep fried pork liver might disagree. We choose it because you can’t say you’ve been to Pécs without going to the Csillag, with its authentically retro chequered plastic tablecloths, mosaic tile floor and vinyl-era curtains. Wonderfully friendly staff too. Hungária utca 27(314 852).
No getting away from it, Pécs2010 is transforming the city for the better and encouraging the arrival of thousands of foreign visitors. Shows, exhibitions, festivals and concerts will be staged throughout the year, as squares, parks and a cultural quarter enjoy major renovations. In summer, the city will become the open-air setting for any number of events and performances, lending Pécs a Mediterranean feel. www.pecs2010.hu
20 Roof terrace, Hotel Palatinus Rela x
18 Pécs by night Easy-going Pécs offers scores of after-dark options for live music, DJs and casual imbibery, giving the 24-hour clock its best shot. A significant and thirsty student population guarantees a wicked drinking culture all year round, but once spring kicks in there’s usually romance in the air too. Király utca allows for convivial terrace sipping in the early evening, with the Toxic cellar punk club (see p27) a handy past-midnight option. On the other side of Széchenyi tér, Hungária utca hosts all-night reverie in the shape of Kino (see p19), Zöld (see p17) and the ‘Betonos’.
Built in the Golden Age, famously visited by a century’s worth of luminaries (note the plaque to composer Béla Bartók), the landmark Palatinus is all gilt and glitz around its sumptuous lobby, where you’ll find its restaurant of similar character. One feature remains hidden though: head up to the top floor for its modest sauna and massage room, beside which is a door leading out to the roof terrace. Here, at eye level with the tops of Baroque churches and gazing out onto the Mecsek Hills, you can sunbathe on the loungers while sipping a glass of fine Villány wine. A priceless feature also available to guests of other Danubius hotels in town. Király utca 5 (889 400/www.danubiushotels.hu). April 2010 Time Out Pécs 11
12 Time Out PĂŠcs April 2010
Food & Drink Eat & Drink around town
Home grown Wild garlic brightens spring cuisine Photography by J贸zsef Hubay
April 2010 Time Out P茅cs 13
Food & Drink
Follow the bear
Wild garlic, or bear’s garlic, is the healthy flavour of spring. Balázs Pesti takes a culinary journey through the Mecsek Hills.
he arrival of wild garlic means that winter is over and spring is finally here. Why is wild garlic so important? Because wild garlic is typical and unique for this region, it is healthy and it can be used for a wide range of meals. To give you an idea how versatile the plant really is, go and discover for yourself at the annual Wild Garlic Festival held in Orfű (see p15) or look for dishes made of wild garlic (medvehagyma) at local restaurants. Its name itself is mystical, connecting nearly all European nations as it has been called since Latin times (Allium Ursinum) exactly the same in at least 20 European languages including Hungarian: it’s ail des ours in French, Bärlauch in German, ajo de oso in Spanish or erba orsina in Italian, just to mention a few. In English, it is known as bear’s garlic, ramsons or wild garlic. Its connection with bears is unclear, although it is believed that bears would chew on it to clear their digestion or recharge their batteries after hibernation – another indication of the coming of spring. This could be just a coincidence, since in early spring there was not much else to feed on anyway for the poor beast in the forest. Others think the name
14 Time Out Pécs April 2010
derives from the fact that bears were able to distinguish wild garlic from the poisonous lookalikes that grew in the same areas. Whichever the true version might be, only one thing is certain: people have used wild garlic for centuries. Wild garlic has been traditionally used for the treatment of heart disease, high cholesterol, fatty deposits, arteriosclerosis, infection of the eyes, ears, throat, respiratory infections, coughs, hoarseness, colds and flu along with a variety of illnesses. Wild garlic has properties close to common garlic: it relieves stomach pains, facilitates digestion and it stimulates appetite. Good news for your significant other: you get all this without the off-putting smell of garlic.
Locals in Pécs are also emerging from their hibernation, of endless cold dark nights survived in smoky pubs. Right about now they’re taking out their sunglasses, packing their hiking boots and heading for the hills.
Its connection with bears is unclear, although they would chew on it after hibernation Visitors can buy a tourist map of the Mecsek Hills from the specialist shop at Alkotmány utca 47. If you follow the Remeterét-Büdöskút trail in direction of Orfű, you’ll notice an intensive onion-like scent in the wind. This means that you’re lucky, as have just found the healthiest plant the forest can offer. This is the wild garlic, or bear’s garlic of legend. Even though this species is threatened by extinction in many parts of Europe, the forest floor in many parts of the Mecsek Hills are fully covered by a veritable carpet of wild garlic. The tender leaves should be collected before flowering as the taste gets bitter afterwards. But beware – wild garlic leaves can easily be mistaken for the poisonous lily of the valley, especially before blossoming. If you are not sure which plant you have picked, simply rub the leaves between your fingers, and the garlic-like smell will definitely mean that you are holding wild garlic in your hand.
Wild garlic is a versatile culinary ingredient. Some like it raw or blanched in salads, others use it in soups, fillings, sauces or it can be used on its own as a spice. One, alternative, possibility, is to use it for wild garlic pesto. It is easy to prepare and keeps for ages – but you’ll probably finish it before it goes off. You could consider it as your daily health supplement for the
rest of the year. Picking it is another positive aspect of the whole process, allowing for a relaxing walk through the woods. This recipe is based on the widely accepted version of pesto alla genovese – although you’ll find as many different kinds of pestos as people preparing it. It might even allow you to take part in Genoa’s annual pesto-making world
Ingredients 100g wild garlic leaves 50g walnuts or pine nuts, 100ml extra virgin olive oil 50g grated Parmesan and/or Pecorino cheese A pinch of coarse sea salt.
Preview Wild garlic festival in Orfű The gentle slopes around Orfű, a neatly situated village on the shores of Pécs Lake, provide a rich habitat for wild garlic, and ample evidence of how locals have managed to use this unique natural resource. For several years, it has become a tradition to celebrate wild-garlic season every spring. Central to this tradition is the Muskátli restaurant, whose owner recognised the need to preserve local customs, resulting in a collection of open-air ovens and tools associated with traditional outdoor food preparation. This year, the annual wild garlic festival starts on April 10 at
9am. A small train sets off from the oven yard and goes around the lake, allowing you to stop off to pick up some wild garlic for the pesto sauce you’ll be able to prepare afterwards (see Alternative pesto). At noon it returns to the oven yard, and traditional dishes based on wild garlic are prepared. As well as this agenda over both days of the weekend, there’s a chefs’ competition on the Saturday afternoon and a cooking school on Sunday at 3pm. Wild garlic festival, Orfű, Muskátli restaurant (Széchenyi tér 13). Sat Apr 10-Sun Apr 11.
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 15
Food & Drink
championship. In any case, it’s up to you to modify this recipe to suit your taste. Traditionally, pesto should be made in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle. Due to the quantity and the volume of the wild garlic leaves it might be a lot easier to use a blender. In the unlikely case that you can’t find pine nuts at the supermarket, use walnuts instead for added regional character. Wash the freshly collected wild garlic leaves thoroughly under cold water two or three times to make sure they are perfectly clean of any soil. Blanch them in boiling water for five seconds then put them immediately into ice-cold water to interrupt the boiling process. Put half of the leaves into the blender with some olive oil and blend for a few seconds. Add the remaining ingredients and continue the mixing process at low speed. Add the olive oil pretty quickly to keep the sauce from falling apart, and continue blending until you have a fine, sparkling paste. Store in a glass jar, covered with a thin layer of olive oil.
Listings Listings are chosen at the discretion of the editors. TimeOut does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.
Food & Drink
Restaurants Áfium Irgalmasok utcája 2 (511 434). Mon-Sat 11am-1am; Sun 11am-midnight. Age-old cellar restaurant filled with Commie and pre-war Magyar toot where older regulars choose from an encyclopaedic menu of Magyar stews, hearty soups and, incongruously, pizzas. Good too for Yugo grilled meat favourites cevapcici and pljeskavica. Aranykacsa Teréz utca 4 (518 860/www.aranykacsa. hu). Tue-Thur 11.30am-10pm; Fri, Sat 11.30am-midnight; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. A pub-style restaurant serving a huge range of Hungarian standards and healthier variations, goulash, roasted duck with steamed cabbage and so on. Prices very fair considering its central location. Mind the ten percent service charge on your bill. Barrus Jókai tér 6 (820 028). Mon-Thur, Sun 10am-11pm, FriSat 10am-midnight. In the famous Elefant House on a pleasant pedestrian-only square, the Barrus has a good raised terrace where you can happily greet sunset with cocktails or people watch any time over classic local dishes. Along with meaty Magyar mains, like pigs’ trotters and potatoes stuffed
Cafés Coffein Diverse delights on main square. Cooltour Café Three floors, one beer garden. Semiramis Best coffee in town (pic).
16 Time Out Pécs April 2010
with bacon (Ft1,950), they also do Sat, Sun 8am-11pm. Just off the Balkan-style lepény breads, filled main tourist drag, this delightful with veggies and/or meat. below-ground dive bar serves local Cellárium Hunyadi út 2 (314 winos and delicious, cheap, home453/www.diacell.hu). Mon-Sat style cooking. The extra bite in the 11am-10pm, Sun 3-10pm. Eight bean and beef stew (babgulyás) metres and many stairs below is more typical of southern ground, Cellarium fills a complex Hungarian cookery – a hearty of vaulted cellars originally used meal for Ft520. The tasty wiener as a secret catacomb when Pécs schnitzel (Ft650) or batter-fried was ruled by the Ottomans. Food mushrooms (Ft390) can soak up a is mostly hearty Hungarian, with serious hangover. Communist-era meaty dishes and some countrywall relief complements casual style fare. The item on the menu friendly service in an authentic translated as ‘Stew made from cock atmosphere. testicles’ is an older traditional dish Kalamáris Vendéglő Rákóczi út using rooster parts. Mains, in big 30 (312 573). Daily 11am-10pm. portions, average Ft2,500. They Attractive glass-walled restaurant sell 30 wines by the bottle and 11 by on the edge of old town serves food the glass – including Pécs vintners that’s a little fancier and better than rarely seen elsewhere and big the typical Pécs eaterie, though it’s names from Villány. still mostly Hungarian standards Corso Király utca 14 (525 198/ and still pretty cheap. Despite the www.susogo.hu). Daily name, there’s no calamari, Áfium 8am-midnight. but they do have Upscale two-floor some seafood, like operation on Pangasius filet the main drag in beer batter right by the with potatoes National (Ft1,750) or Theatre. salmon with The cuisine, potatoes though (Ft2,250). Lots labelled of filling meat Hungarian, dishes, like pork draws heavily ribs, goose liver from French and and fried onions Italian influences with potato and cheese thanks to the recent arrival (Ft2,900). of chef Gábor Kovács. The priceKrúdy Vendéglő Ferencesek to-quality ratio is well above what utcája 32 (525 576, 06 30 262 you would find locally; this is a real 8997 mobile/www.krudyvendeglo. standout on Pécs’s culinary scene. hu). Wed-Sun 11am-11pm. Typical Dóm Étterem & Pizzeria little local restaurant closed for Király utca 3 (210 088). Daily renovation this winter but due to 11am-11pm. Hungarian and Italian reopen in March. When it does, favourites like pork-knuckle stew on offer will be duck leg in plum and pizzas from Ft1,000 are served sauce (Ft1,360), pastas and, for in a pizzeria-style restaurant with a afters, pancakes. Live music on bar at the back. Saturdays. All’Elefante Jókai tér 6 (216 Kikelet Károlyi Mihály út 1 055/www.elefantos.hu). Mon(512 900/www.hotelkikelet.hu). Thur, Sun 11.30am-11pm; Fri, Sat Daily 8am-10pm. Attached to the 11.30am-midnight. This Italian adjacent spa hotel, Kikelet has a restaurant specialises in authentic solid local reputation but the hilltop thin-crust pizzas and sundry Med vista may win out over the food. A treats like risotto with cuttlefish good choice of wines complement and prawns. The atmosphere is Hungarian and continental dishes. rather old-school Magyar than Király Pizzéria Király Italian, with a history dating back to utca 1 (210 101). Mon-Thur, the 1800s. They also deliver. Sun 11am-10.45pm; Fri, Sat Fregatt Arizona Király utca 21 11am-1am. Handy terrace near (511 068/www.fregatt.hu). Daily the main square offers 37 types of 11am-midnight. Pub-steakhouse decent pizzas and some chicken restaurant on the main drag with a and meats. Really comes into its saloon-bar theme. Thick T-bones own in the evening, when partying go for Ft4,900, accompanied by students stop in for late-night nosh. a choice of six draught beers Pezsgőház Szent István tér 12 (Warsteiner, Guinness, Krusovice) (522 598/www.pezsgohaz.hu). or many regional wines. Twofer Mon-Thur noon-3pm, 6-10pm; happy hour Tue-Thur 5-6pm. Fri, Sat noon-3pm, 6-11pm. The István Pince Kazinczy utca 1 classy central Champagne House (310 473). Mon-Fri 7am-11pm, occupies the vaulted cellar of the
Local cuisine Áfium Classic cellar, Magyar dishes. Corso Upscale, inventive renditions (pic). Pezsgőház Romantic setting, rich delights. former Littke champagne factory. Quality Mediterranean and Magyar cuisine, regional wines and, naturally, champagne, are served with aplomb and at prices to match. Tex-Mex Teréz utca 10 (215 427/www.tex-mex.hu). Tue-Sat 5-11pm. This local fave serves fajitas quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas and burritos at big-city prices in a no-frills brightly painted cellar. Tasty cocktails play a leading role too.
Cafes & bars Blöff Színház tér 2 (06 30 997 9008 mobile). Mon-Fri 11am-1am; Sat-Sun 4pm-1am. Popular café by the National Theatre done out in drawing-room style, the bright collection of foreign football scarves in one corner courtesy the game-crazy boss. Twenty cocktails, regional wines, and draught Dreher in both colours are on offer, plus several coffee types. Coffein Széchenyi tér 9 (06 20 522 1440 mobile). MonThur, Sun 9am-11pm; Fri, Sat 9am-2am. Neat café-eaterie on the main square whose varied selection includes Illy coffee in the hot cocktails, spinach among the breakfast omelette varieties and apple amid the lemonade flavours. American hamburgers, lemon cheesecakes and kingcrab salads too. Cooltour Café Király utca 26 (no phone/www.cooltourcafe. hu). Daily 10am-2am. Opened in the summer of 2009, this three level-storey-plus-courtyard house contains three bohemian-style bar areas, an arty one under the
I Individuality in the center I Food & Drink
roof and a beer garden. Easily the (draught Paulaner and Guinness; most hopping pre-midnight spot age-old whiskies; Bols-sponsored on the main drag. The Ft500 seedy- cocktails) take equal importance. breaded sandwiches also rock. Pécsi Est Café Ground floor, Kafka Alkotmány utca 28 (512 Kereskedők Háza,Rákóczi út 46 500). Daily noon-midnight. Fun (667 8800/www.pecsiestcafe. bar at the edge of old town, run by hu). Mon-Fri 11.30am-2am; Sat the owner of one the town’s top 6pm-4am. Pub, restaurant, live outdoor clubs, boasts good bar venue and sports bar, the ever-busy food with some Balkan specialities, Pécsi Est Café on the ground floor a jazzy soundtrack and live jazz at of a modest downtown shopping weekends. A cool crowd lounges centre, is all things to all locals. It’s amid burgundy walls until closing a large-scale operation done out in time. Good place to start a crawl. similar vein to a Hard Rock Café. Kanta Bár Irgalmasok utcája By day the main space is given 6 (06 30 592 5010 mobile). Monover to honest Hungarian cuisine/ Fri 10am-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; bar food dining; by night, it’s gigs Sun 4pm-midnight. A fave among and DJs. older local bohemians, in an inner Semiramis Király utca 33 (no courtyard and signposted from the phone/www.semiramispecs.hu). street, the smoky Kanta comprises Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am-9pm; an intimate, arty bar area and Sun 2-8pm. The creamiest coffees adjacent cellar music spot. in town are served at this cosy Káptalan borozó Janus terrace spot, though locals are also Pannonius utca 8-10 (315 drawn in by the carrot cake. Look 550). Mon-Sat 10am-2am; Sun out also for the fruit teas, yoghurt 10am-midnight. Behind the smoothies and Bitburger beer. Cathedral, known to all as ‘Papucs’ Other snacks include double(‘slipper’ – note drawing above chocolate cookies and Marlenkadoor), this legendary smoky wine branded pastries. Ice-creams too. bar unusually offers many bottled Trafik Perczel M utca 22 beers and stays open agreeably (212 672). Mon-Thur noon-1am; late. House wine simply priced at Fri noon-3am; Sat 6pm-3am. Ft100 per deciliter for white, Ft120 Quality club, live venue and bar/ for red. restaurant in the Apolló Cinema Mecsek Cukrászda Széchenyi building. tér 16 (315 444). Daily 9am-9pm. Virág Cukrászda Széchenyi Cake and coffee shop that also tér 8 (222 223). Daily 8am-8pm. serves harder stuff has a terrace Centrally located at the bottom on Széchenyi tér, a bizarre main of Széchenyi tér, in front of the interior with a surrealist, faux Pécs2010 information office, the ancient Rome look and a great Virág has a front terrace on the backroom with antique furniture square, more outdoor seating in and textured stripy wallpaper. an attractive, quiet rear courtyard Monte Cristo Ráckóczi and a warm, old-fashioned út 28 (no phone). Moninterior. Good service, Wed 9am-2am, about 20 types Thur-Sat of coffee and 9am-last guest. 16 types of Key nightlife cocktail, along stop run by with cakes the beloved and a range of and bearded booze. Papa draws Zöld all ages to a Hungária út small smoky 42 (no phone). cellar with some Mon, Sun Trafik exposed brick, 6pm-2am; Tue-Sat classic Parisian6pm-3am. The green style posters and antique man sign outside means furnishings. Busy coffee shop by serious post-midnight imbibery, day, it serves Ft390 pints of Zlaty a regrettably easy stagger from Bazant to grandparents and the the Kino landmark nightspot. kids by evening. Expect a mad Once inside, you’ll find three party by closing time, perhaps cosy rooms filled with late-night all the way to sun-up if the staff’s chatter and cigarette smoke, as having fun. well as carefully chosen tunes from Murphy’s Király utca 2 (325 behind the bar. Sadly closing times 439/http://murphys.rubynet.net). strictly adhered to – but ask a shitMon-Thur, Sun 9am-midnight; faced regular to direct/accompany Fri, Sat 9am-2am. Focal faux pub you to the Sör Bár (aka ‘Betonos’) where food (Irish steaks, pastas, round the corner. Everyone will house fruit soup) and booze follow them there.
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 17
Food Hall Aranykulacs
Nefelejcs köz 3, Szekszárd (06 74 413 369/www.aranykulacs.hu). Daily noon-midnight. Classic, traditional restaurant offering specialist wines from the region – Takler, Sebestyén, Sárosdi – and some two dozen pálinka brandies.
Boltív köz 2 (534 916/www. korhelypub.hu). Daily 11.30ammidnight. Old-style eaterie down a cobbled sidestreet with a long selection of bar food and Hungarian faves. Sawdust and nut shells on the floor add rusticity; note also the funny-looking critters running around a glass tank.
Food & Drink
Felsőhavi dűlő 6/1 (513 213/ www.bagolyvarpecs.hu). Daily 11am-9.30pm. Hotel and garden restaurant with a view over Zengő hill serving global and Hungarian dishes, with specialities from Székely in Transylvania such as the platter with steak, veal and pork. Game is also prevalent, such as the pheasant consommé or Villányi-style wild ragout.
Surányi Miklós út 21 (312 558). Mon-Thur 10am-midnight; Fri 10am-2am; Sat noon-2am; Sun noon-midnight. French-owned and influenced child-friendly café with a summer terrace under a striped awning. Inside are a table-football table and TV for big games.
Mátyás király utca 2 (222 005). Mon-Thur 9am-midnight; Fri 9am1am; Sat 10am-1am; Sun 5pmmidnight. Friendly little four-room spot just off Jókai tér with Zlaty Bazant on draught, bar snacks, Wi-Fi and the day’s papers. Regularly changing exhibitions – art, black-and-white photography, paintings – add a touch of class.
Citrom utca 7 (532 848). Daily 8am-midnight. Trendy downtown spot offering breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, panini, coffees (all varieties also decaffeinated), fruit smoothies, Bitburger beers and at least 30 types of cocktail.
Diósi út 46 (211 518/www. dioskisvendeglo.hu). Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. In business for more than a decade, this sunny terrace spot out towards the Zsolnay Quarter specialises in pizzas, pancakes (including chicory, blackberry and vanilla) and grilled meats. Weekdays, the good-value lunch menu comes into its own.
Klimó György út 12 (515 555/ www.maestropizza.hu). Daily 10am-10pm. Pizzeria and terrace under the Barbakan with 60 varieties of pizza in four sizes, classic Hungarian dishes, salads, cakes and desserts.
Felsőmalom utca 7 (327 859). Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. Eminently affordable local restaurant serving Hungarian kitchen standards, including carp, breaded chicken and beef stew. Look out for the daily menu.
Baross G utca 81, Villány (592 086). Mon-Thur noon-8pm; Fri noon-10pm; Sat 11am-10pm; Sun 9am-4pm. Recently renovated wine cellar in the green surroundings of Villány, offering labels from the winery of the same name.
18 Time Out Pécs April 2010
OUTSIDE PÉCS Advertising feature
Restaurant review Bagolyvár KKKKK Original Hungarian restaurant
ing complex of hotel, restaurant and six small wine-press houses was built strictly according to the organic architectural style. It is perched on the top of Zengő hill surrounded by the owner’s vineyard,
could also try the roasted duck with mixed fruit (Ft2,700), the piquant wild stew in red, house Portugieser wine (Ft1,900) as well as specialities from the Székely region of Transylvania, most notably the Transylvania platter with steak, veal and pork. Strudel is the stand-out dessert, home-made and similar to its German counterpart, boiled rather than baked, and certainly superb (Ft750). The service is quick, precise, attentive and not pushy. Portions are big, flavours tangible and prices correct. Felső havi dűlő 6/1 (513 213/www.bagolyvarpecs. hu). Daily 11am-9.30pm. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
around its crowded bar area. Entering through the cinema doors to the left of this Socialist-era façade, they would have wandered in or paid a modest entrance fee for a handstamp that stays with them as a souvenir of the night. Through the one door, and they join the throng in the one main room: little bar straight ahead, a few seats around the edge, enough dancefloor space to mingle and jig, and a modest stage to the left. Between stage and door, a dedicated individual does the sound mixing – there may be better equipped venues in Pécs but none as convivial. The evening agenda is random – you might catch a local ska band, a DJ or a soupçon of punk. It doesn’t really matter. What matters is that the Zlaty Bazant beers keep flowing over the busy bar like
the last days of prohibition. Credit here is due to the bar staff, put-upon but polite guys at ease with their task in life. (Foreigners please note – Hungarians render this Slovak beer’s moniker as ‘Arany Fácán’, ‘Golden Pheasant’; shout ‘Fácán!!!’ and you’ll be served right away.) Thus the bar-counter clammer, thus the sticky dance-
floor, thus Kino is a terribly difficult place to leave. Closing hours are elastic, weekends at least, as hardy, all-night types find a seat as the crowd thins out to sink the Fácáns as Morrison wails eternally about the West being the best. He must have been joking. Hungária utca 19 (511 732). Mon-Thur, Sun 3pm-1am; FriSat 3pm-5am.
Bar review Kino Café KKKK Late-night, louche and sticky Kino, its Russian name presumably taken from the Soviet-era cinema whose lobby area it occupies, is everyone’s after-hours destination of choice. You’ll find it halfway along Hungária utca, a long stretch that points back to the city centre in one direction and, in the other, towards early-morning imbibery. It’s a safe stretch for nightowls; groups of mates stroll four abreast drunkenly yakking, couples argue in doorways, recent strangers first interlink fingers. Beyond Kino, there lieth dragons: first Zöld, then, close by, ‘Betonos’, the sonicknamed black hole into which all post-party gatherings sink. But many, often too many, are perfectly happy to stick with Kino, hence the mass of thirsty souls clammering
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 19
Food & Drink
Though the ‚Owl’s Castle’ is out of the city centre, it’s worth the trouble to visit - those without a car can take local bus No 33 and get off at Tettye. Once you arrive, you’ll realise why it’s called Owl’s Castle. The build-
allowing a magnificent view as you dine. Those keen on ethnography will also enjoy the Hungarian folk motifs decorating each room with design from different local regions. Regulars tend to start their meal with a pálinka fruit brandy - the ágyas apricot (Ft900) would be the way to go here. Naturally you will also find all the important wines of the region, but feel free to choose the ones produced on-site. The chardonnay goes well with one of the specialities of the house: minced cock-meat filled in strudel with dill sauce. The local rosé suits the catfish goulash with cottage cheese dumplings (Ft2,400). You
Wine of the month
Food & Drink
A Blue Frankish from South Pannonia
When you’re talking about Hungarian red wine, those from Villány first spring to mind. This was the southernmost Hungarian wine region to wake first from its enforced sleep after the communist era, and it was here that family-run wineries took over from the mass production of socialist cooperatives. Beside the region’s typical local variety,
Portugieser, the most popular varieties of the 1990s were Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Bordeaux was the way to go. Towards the end of the last decade, several wineries tried to get back to their roots, and to local varieties: grapes such as the Blue Frankish (Kékfrankos), better known worldwide as Austrian
Blaufränkisch or Lemberger. And so it was that local winemakers soon discovered that you can produce serious, well-structured wines, planned for long-term production and consumption, made from these local varieties. More and more wineries began to take local values seriously. The Matias winery, for example, has vineyards in five Hungarian wine regions, two mostly known for red wine: Villány and Szekszárd. The Matias Villányi Kékfrankos 2007 comes from Villány and it’s a true southern wine. Ripe, cherry-blackberry aroma with a touch of fresh green spices merge with typical aromas of the barrique barrel such as vanilla, coconut and roasted coffee. It feels a big wine, with a thick, heavy char character. As you try the first,
creamy sip, you soon discover flavours of chocolate. It’s a complex, dense material, in which you sense the grape variety as well as the vineyard. Overall, it has a pleasant char character, pure flavours, fruitiness and substance with appropriate elegance, all lending themselves to satisfying, long sips. A medium-bodied Blue Frankish is like a bodybuilder in a dinner jacket, someone well dressed and polite but with an awesome inner strength. Matias Kékfrankos provides the appropriate accompaniment for meaningful conversation. If so choosen, plump for lamb or game to go with it. Matias Villányi Kékfrankos 2007 (Ft3,000). Hordó wine store, Széchenyi tér 17 (www.matias.hu) and from Alexandra Bookstore.
The Kultúrkert is opening at April 9! In 2010 not only jazz, literature, general and inexplicable goodwill, but renewed, place worthy gastronomy, morning opening, lunch menu, adult games, tandem, etc Programs in April: April 9. Friday, 18.00h: Opening party – Yazz Stereotype concert with the homevisiting Piros April 10. Saturday, 17.00h: - “Álljunk meg egy szóra!” (Stop for a word!) slam poetry afternoon, with well-known and ad-hoc slamers. Playing the Singas Quartett, the Kultúrkert turns into the prolific garden of spontaneous literary phenomena. April 16. Friday, 20.00: Tüke Zoo concert for all of those who are interested the Pécs underground. April 17. Saturday, 20.00: Revelstone concert and no need comment. April 23. Friday, 18.00: DeepPécs music and mood diving with Edgar Allan Péló and with others. April 24. Saturday, 19.00: Kafkajazz in the Kultúrkert. Anyswing concert with jazz standards. April 30. Friday, 19.00: Kafkajazz in the Kultúrkert. Progressive Jazzattack with Singas Project and Barsony Zakoo. Program trailers for May: Boom Pam (IL), Kingalita & Túró Rudi Gipsy Band (NL), Másfél concerts and new waves of Kafkajazz
Pécs, Esze ta más u. 5. 20 Time Out Pécs April 2010
72 512 500
The cultural month ahead
PEN festival four-day bender
Photography by Lajos Kalmár
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 21
Three-part masterpiece now on show
Large-scale art Munkácsy’s work ‘Golgota’
For the first time in Pécs, the Christ Trilogy by Mihály Munkácsy is being exhibited as three paintings together. What lies behind these tragic, moving religious works? The Christ Trilogy by 19th-century Hungarian master Mihály Munkácsy is a rare bird, indeed. Certainly the artist himself never lived to see these three paintings – ‘Golgota’, ‘Ecce Homo!’ and ‘Christ before Pilate’ – together. He suffered an agonising death from syphilis shortly after finishing the last one, ‘Ecce Homo!’, at the turn of the last century. Munkácsy died in a mental hospital in Germany, having lost most of his faculties. These works are forever connected with the demise of the most celebrated Hungarian artist of the Golden Age. Quite remarkably, through quirks of fate and auction, the three were not exhibited together at all until 1995. The three works have arrived here via the Deri Museum in Debrecen but share a patchwork history of ownership – ‘Ecce Homo!’ is only on loan to Debrecen from the Art Gallery of Hamilton, Ontario,
22 Time Out Pécs April 2010
Canada, until 2012. These large pieces, each one some four metres high by six metres wide, were commissioned under a ten-year contract by Austrian art dealer Charles Sedelmeyer and at the time exhibited around Europe. US millionaire John Wanamaker picked them up, only to display them every Easter at his store in Philadelphia. Since then, they have made their way back to Hungary according to various loan and legacy agreements. The last major sighting of his oeuvre was the ‘Munkácsy in the Wider World’ show at the National Gallery in Budapest in 2005.
He threw himself into his trilogy and other powerful works that stand as benchmarks in Hungarian art Born Michael von Lieb, from the town of Munkács, now in the Ukraine, Munkácsy
made a modest name for himself in the Budapest, Vienna, Munich and Düsseldorf of the mid-1800s. Later influenced by the Paris World Exposition, Munkácsy moved from genre painting to strong landscapes, before his first masterpiece, ‘The Last Day of a Condemned Man’, which won the Gold Medal of the Paris Salon in 1870. As his fame spread, Munkácsy threw himself into his large-scale trilogy and other powerful works that stand as benchmarks in 19thcentury Hungarian art. Most of all, Munkácsy is remembered for the tripartite depiction of the suffering of Christ as he himself sunk to a lowly, lonely death. Their unified arrival in Pécs gives ample chance – seven months – for the curious to see what the fuss is all about. Mihály Munkácsy, Christ Trilogy, AprOct 30, Nagy Lajos Gimnázium, Széchenyi tér 11(en.pecs2010.hu).
Previews Fringe Festival
This year the Fringe Festival moves from Budapest to Pécs, to the European Capital of Culture. The agenda mainly features amateur performers in 380 free shows at various cultural institutions, from the morning until late in the evening.
Here we are recommending just few of them but it´s worth check most city-centre clubs during the festival; they´ll be something for everybody. The three-day event starts with a concert by Frank Sharman entitled ‘On the
Krétakör Picnic A trip down the mines might not seem an attractive proposition to many, but this month it’s worth leaving the comfort zone of the city centre for the Széchenyi Mine Shaft (Széchenyi-akna) and the Krétakör Picnic. This three-day event of story-telling, performances and games relates to the long-lost tale of Utópia Kollégium, a secret organisation dating back to the 1800s. That was when the brilliant mining engineer, Jaroslav Jicinsky, arrived in Pécs to update local coal production. But Jicinsky established not only modern industry – the Széchenyi Mine Shaft was built according to his plans – built but thanks to his leadership a clandestine party was set up: Utópia Kollégium. The name of the group hints at its commitment to change. April’s event introduces the fascinating and true story of Jaroslav Jicinsky and his secret activities, step by step. It starts on
April 30 in Széchenyi tér, from where a city tour guide visitors among memories of a coal-mining past to revive the legend of Utópia Kollégium. The next day, Utópia Kollégium opens its gates in the Széchenyi Mine Shaft, before a festival runs until dawn. On the last day Kollégium followers will perform in the outskirts of Pécs. Anyone can join in – you just need to discover their position somewhere in the suburbs. Széchenyi Mine Shaft, Apr 30 - May 2. More details at www.utopiakollegium.org; www. kretakor.blog.hu
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 23
Magyar jazz Orsi Kozma in the Pécsi Est Café
Waterfront’, in the Művészetek Háza on April 9 at 3.40pm. The young singer-pianist blends many modern trends in his music. For this show he will be presenting his latest, sixth, album to the audience. It’s worth coming back to the same venue later, at 11.55pm, as Pravo will be playing Bulgarian, Macedonian and Serbian folk music. The highlight of next day is the 4x4 troupe´s contemporary dance performance. At 1.20pm in the No.2 rehearsal room of the Pécsi National Theatre, there will be a performance of ‘DobTánc’, for which male dancers from the Carpathian Basin will be accompanied by simple percussion. At 9pm, the Yellow Spots hit the stage of the Ifjúsági Ház, a must-see – it’s low-budget horror cabaret, balls-out rock´n´roll with a front man straight out of a zombie movie. The ‘Hide and Seek’ jazz concert comes courtesy of renowned Hungarian singer, Orsi Kozma, at the Pécsi Est Café on April 11 at 7pm. The closing notes of Fringe Festival will be the world music concert of Escargo Etno Jazz Group in the Művészetek Háza at 10.40pm on April 11. Apr 9-11. Various venues. More details at www.fringepecs2010.hu
Listings Pécs has many museums and attractions. Certain key ones remain closed to prepare for Pécs2010. Most should re-open by the spring.
Angels in the Cella Septichora
Museums & galleries Csontváry Museum Janus Pannonius utca 11 (310 544). Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350. Chemist Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka (18531919) took to painting at 41 and became of the greatest modern Hungarian painters, known for his absurd colour pairings and immense landscapes. Many of his 100 paintings and 20 drawings are on display here, arranged thematically in five galleries, including nature paintings, pencil drawings, oversized landscapes and sketches of surrealistic visions attributable to his mental state at the tims. Dóm Museum Káptalan utca 8 (513 057). Daily 10am-4pm. Admission Ft300, concs Ft150. This museum contains an archeologically significant collection of old stones, the remains of the original basilica structure – today’s Basilica contains only copies. Also on display are gravestones from nearby Roman-era cemeteries, inscriptions still visible on the back. Little English documentation. FREE Nádor Galéria Széchenyi tér 15 (225 404/www. nadorgaleria.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. The Nádor houses temporary exhibitions of local contemporary
Basilica (Dóm) Neo-Romanesque masterpiece. Cella Septichora Ancient burial chambers (pic). Dóm Museum Basilica originals.
24 Time Out Pécs April 2010
Works by János Aknay, winner of the Munkácsy-prize, can be seen in Cella Septichora from April 7 to May 2. Aknay uses emblematic figures such as surreal angels operating as God’s soldiers and defenders of mankind. visual artists, within the gutted space of the Nádor Hotel undergoing renovation. Every aspect (gallery spaces, Wi-Fi café) of this non-profit arts space was realised through community effort.
Attractions Basilica (Dóm) Szent István tér (513 030). Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; Sat 10am-2pm; Sun 1-4pm. Admission Ft800, concs Ft500. The iconic Dóm was built under St Stephen in the 11th century. It eventually assumed its current, mainly neo-Romanesque form in 1891. The four towers, each 60 metres high, are visible around town while the grand interior contains frescoes, carvings and a red marble tabernacle. Cella Septichora Dóm tér (224 755/ www.septichora.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft1,200, concs Ft600. The Cella is housed in a modern museum structure built to protect three ancient burial chambers: the Peter & Paul and wine pitcher burial chambers, and the octagonal burial chapel. These fourth-century finds are accessible via underground corridors and staircases branching out from the main chapel and museum entrance.
Early Christian Mausoleum (Okeresztény Mauzóleum) Szent István tér 12 (224 755). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft600, concs Ft200. Dominating the fourth-century Early Christian cemetery, its upper level visible above ground, this contains the remains of a single-naved burial chapel. The lower level houses a burial chamber adorned with Early Christian symbols. Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim Széchenyi tér (321 976). Mon-Fri 10am-noon; Sun noon2pm. Admission by donation. Set on the main square, this is the largest building in Hungary left over from the Turks. The former mosque occupied the site of a Gothic church from 1579 and was converted into a Catholic church when the Turks left. Note, though, the Islamic prayer niche near the main entrance and sundry Islamic features. Tettye sinter caves Tettye tér (211 830/www.ddnp.hu). Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat, Sun 10am-4pm; after March 14 Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. Admission Ft750, concs Ft550. Over the centuries, this remarkable geological formation was enlarged and later inhabited.
The cave complex above the city in the Mecsek Hills can be visited on twice-hourly 30-minute tours. Zsolnay Museum Káptalan utca 2 (514 040/http://kepzo. jpm.hu). Tue-Sun 10am-4pm. Admission Ft700, concs Ft350.
The recently overhauled Zsolnay Museum is the key renovation on gallery-lined Káptalan utca. This expanded venue is filled with a comprehensive selection of works produced by the famous local ceramics and glaze manufacturers, as well as an interactive video display in English and Hungarian showing the factory’s history. The main level contains fine examples of Zsolnay porcelain; the three galleries on the upper level are dedicated to glassware, earthenware and a dinner place setting arranged thematically and grouped by artist.
Listings The following films are screened in their original language, with Hungarian subtitles:
Shutter Island HHHHH Director: Martin Scorsese Leonardo DiCaprio, Mark Ruffalo, Ben Kingsley, Emily Mortimer, Michelle Williams, Max von Sydow, Patricia Clarkson Martin Scorsese sets himself a challenge with ‘Shutter Island’, an intense and often bleak psychological puzzle that, bar flashbacks, plays out entirely in a mental asylum on a windswept island near Boston in 1954. The source novel by Dennis Lehane keeps its cards close to its chest for much of its telling and the problem was always going to be how to keep a complicated shaggy-dog story with a B-movie edge going for over two hours. Scorsese’s answer is to throw sense to the wind and indulge in cinematic flourishes, offering atmosphere
rather than logic, a game that’s as much about referencing the past glories of cinema as unravelling a mystery. It’s a brave choice. Two US Marshals, Teddy Daniels (Leonardo DiCaprio) and Chuck Aule (Mark Ruffalo) arrive at the Ashecliffe hospital for the criminally insane on a boat that emerges from the fog in the shadow of the rocky, guarded island. Teddy is a seasoned detective, joined for the first time by Chuck, his new partner. They’re at Ashecliffe to investigate the disappearance of a patient and meet Dr
Cawley (Ben Kingsley), the urbane head of the institution, who explains he’s in favour neither of progressive therapy. His staff don’t agree. Teddy starts to fear the motives of his hosts and they, in turn, appear wary of his presence, with Cawley’s German colleague Dr Naehring (Max Von Sydow) a sinister presence. To tell more of the plot would be to ruin its many highways and byways. Let’s just say that the hurricane that hits the island after Teddy and Chuck arrive is just one of many unexpected twists. Dave Calhoun
The Lovely Bones Director: Peter Jackson Mark Wahlberg, Rachel Weisz, Susan Sarandon, Saoirse Ronan, Stanley Tucci, Michael Imperioli
versibly modified. The book was narrated from the grave by Susie Salmon (played by Saoirse Ronan in the film), a 14-year-old girl raped and murdered near her home. Between heaven and earth, Susie follows her par-
Szent István tér 17. Free. Pandora’nin kutusu (Tur-Fr-GerBel) Apr 7, 5pm. k Ladies in Lavandre (UK) Apr 21, 5pm.
Uránia mozi Hungária út 19 (511 732). Admission Ft750. Alice in Wonderland (US) Apr 3-7, 4pm.
Alice in Wonderland
Anyone hoping that Peter Jackson may have returned to the intimate territory of 1994’s ‘Heavenly Creatures’ for his version of Alice Sebold’s novel must resign themselves to the fact that Jackson’s filmmaking DNA may have become irre-
Civil Közösségek Háza
ents (Mark Wahlberg, Rachel Weisz), her sister (Rose McIver) and her killer, Mr Harvey (Stanley Tucci), as she – and they – struggle to accept her fate. Not that we see anyone raped or murdered in this $100 million, 12A version: Jackson fatally softens the edges of the tragedy and its fallout. The film relies on overblown effects to represent Susie’s limbo. Coming across as if Dali was commissioned to paint Middle Earth for the New Zealand tourist board, the CGI scenes sideline the cast in favour of the magic of the animator’s hard drive. Dave Calhoun
How to train your Dragon (US) Apr 8-14, 4pm. Das weisse Band (It-Ger-Fr-Aus) Apr 12-14, 8pm. k The Limits of Control (Sp) Apr 12-14, 6pm. Entre les murs (Fr) Apr 15, 1.30pm. Kdopak by se vlka bál (Cz) Apr 15-16, 8pm; Apr 17-21, 4pm. The young Victoria (UK-US) Apr 15-16, 4pm; Apr 17-18, 6pm; Apr 19-21, 8pm. k Agora (Sp) Apr 22-23, 6pm; Apr 24-25, 8.15pm; Apr 26, 8pm; Apr 27-28, 6pm. The Lovely Bones (UK-US) Apr 22-23, 8pm; Apr 24-25, 6pm; Apr 26, 5.45pm; Apr 27-28, 8pm. Nos enfants nous accuseront (Fr) Apr 22-25, 4pm; Apr 26, 3.45pm; Apr 27-28, 4pm. k Shutter Island (US) Apr 29-May 5, 8pm. Chasserurs de Dragons (Fr-Ger) Apr 29-May 5, 4pm. k Fish Tank (UK) May 3, 8pm.
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 25
Perczel Miklós utca 22 (212 604). Admission until 5pm Ft500; after 5pm Ft850. Applause (Den) Apr 1-4, 4pm & 8.30pm; Apr 5-7, 5.30pm & 7pm; Apr 8, 6pm; Apr 9-11, 6.30pm; Apr 12, 8pm. Up in the Air (US) Apr 1-7, 4.30pm & 8pm. k Tamo i ovde (Serb-US) Apr 1-7, 6.30pm; Apr 9-14, 6.30pm. k Food Inc. (US) Apr 8, 6.30pm. Welcome (Fr) Apr 8-14, 4pm. Dot.com (Por-Br) Apr 8, 4pm & 7.30pm; Apr 9-11, 4.30pm & 8pm; Apr 12-14, 4.30pm & 6.30pm.
Music & Nightlife Four days of madness Highlights of Pécs University Days Tito & Tarantula There is no need to introduce the band to local audiences as singerguitarist Tito Larriva is better known as an actor. He was the one who smashed Tarantino’s brains out in ‘Desperado’, starred as the head of the vampire orchestra in ‘From Dusk Till Dawn’ and he also appeared in the ‘Million Dollar Hotel’. Tito & Tarantula have played on the main stage of Sziget Festival and make a long-awaited appearance in Pécs in April 2010. 23 April, 9pm, Main stage
Music & Nightlife
DJ Krush Hideaki Ishi, also known as DJ Krush, ranks among the greatest icons of electronic music. His style is hip hop, but in particular a chilled-out downtempo abstract version of it, based on complicated rhythms. Krush blends in jazz, drum’n’bass and breakbeat elements, and the end result engenders a unique and chilled-out atmosphere. 25 April, 1.45am, Main stage
Client One of the founding members of Depeche Mode, Andy Fletcher signed UK electroclash band Client onto his newly created record label, and they’ve enjoyed success ever since. The trio first arrived in 2007 and echo the golden age of synthesiser pop. 23 April, 0.15am, Main stage
The Urban Voodoo Machine This complex outfit uses a plethora of instruments – accordion, guitar, banjo, violin, trumpet, double bass, saxophone and two drums. Their music mixes rock, rock’n’roll, rockabilly and punk with a touch of blues and the folk music of Eastern Europe. 25 April, 1am, A38 Stage
26 Time Out Pécs April 2010
PEN performers DJ Krush (above); Client (circled); Tito & Tarantula (right above)
The PEN festival is unique to Pécs, a costumed party set in formerly abandoned, mainly industrial, buildings. Once a year, Pécs University Days (PEN) means four days of madness, costumed crowds, loud music and wild frivolity. The venues vary – unused factory buildings, warehouses
and hangars, all revived in the name of culture to attract more and more visitors thanks to the unique nature of this annual festival. The main project of European Capital of Culture year was the complete makeover of such a facility, the Zsolnay factory complex. But local students have discovered their own forgotten facility, the former Leather Factory. This inconspicuous little pile sits behind a petrol station, along with a large
gate. This was the main entrance of the factory, active for 250 years, where the original owners used to reside. It was here that the biggest event, and only festival of the Pécs University, was held the first time last year. Gigs were held in three large tents, with supporting shows elsewhere in the complex. The facility itself, with its handful of buildings and empty spaces, is considerably bigger than the fenced-off location used by the festival in 2009. This year,
organisers are looking to extend the venue, much as the choice of music will be for a wider audience.
Visitors to PEN 2010 can look forward to a varied musical mix, ranging from Hungary’s underground and alternative stars to lesserknown names from abroad. This year, a party location will be added to the three live tents, for DJs playing mainstream music. The main stage will host Tito & Tarantula, Client and DJ Krush, while Zenzile, The Toasters and Deti Picasso will perform on the more underground A38 stage.
Birta & friends Ifjúsági Ház. Thur Apr 22. Hungarian jazz. Braindogs Pécsi Est Café. Fri Apr 16. Tom Waits’s tribute band. Decomposed God Toxic Club. Mon Apr 5. Death metal from Brazil. Kill the Dandies Kino Café. Fri Apr 9. Czech psychedelic r’n’r. Thea Soti Quartet Trafik. Thur Apr 8. Jazz-soul from Germany(pic). Rózsaszín Pitbull Ifjúsági Ház. Sat Apr 17, 7pm. Punk Pink Pitbull’s birthday gig. 24 Bloody Roots, Terror Zone, K3. Noisy trash metal night by Sepultura and Kreator tribute bands. Trafik Perczel M utca 22 (212 672). Quality club, live venue and bar/restaurant in the Apolló Cinema building. Gig: Apr 8 Thea Soti Quartet. Smooth sounds from Germany. FREE Party: Apr 15 Jazz, soul, funk, dub and poetry. DJs Péló, Bodoo, Pfunk and Pausz. Zion Pécs Zsolnay V utca 109 (http://zionpecs.blog.hu). Admirable live venue with a DJ room, rehearsal space and community playroom set up in the former Black Diamond cinema, also once a school. Run by volunteers, it brings a teenage crowd to smoke like beagles and flirt shamelessly. Set in the deserted Zsolnay Quarter, it’s a taxi ride away – there’s a number behind the bar. Check the website for programming.
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 27
Music & Nightlife
PEN means that students let loose in very many different ways
PEN allows students to let loose in many different ways. Along with the music, focus will fall on the election of the Students’ Dean, an event equal in revelry to the concert agenda. Put the Carnival in Venice together with the Rocky Horror Picture Show, add a few barrels of beer, and this is what comes out. Participants remain in costume for the whole four days, until a winner is decided, a title they keep for the rest of the year. Drunken monks, promiscuous hippies, knights of the dark side, zombies, each year has its own twist. There is also a talent show, inaugurated three years ago. This concept grew so that now 67 entrants have taken part from across the country, with 24 competing in the preliminaries in March. Pécs University Days, Bőrgyár, Apr 21-24. More details at www.pecsiegyeteminapok.hu
Cyrano Cafe & Lounge Czinderi utca 6 (06 30 650 7021 mobile). Small, upscale weekendonly venue. Parties: Apr 9-10, 16-17, 23-24, 30-May 1 ‘Funky Fever’ – weekend floor fillers. Ifjúsági Ház Nagy Lajos király útja 13 (211 511). Landmark culture house with a 800-capacity concert hall and smaller adjacent bar venue. Gigs: Apr 9-11 Fringe Festival concerts. (See p23). Apr 17 7pm Rózsaszín Pitbull. Cultish local punk band’s birthday gig, supported by Don Gatto and Yellow Spots. Apr 22 8pm Birta & friends. Magyar jazz. Kino Café Hungária utca 19 (511 732). Louche late-night cinema haunt with a popular, sticky dancefloor, and Zlaty Bazant beers flying out of the busy bar. Essential to any all-night bar crawl. See p19. Gigs: Apr 9 Kill the Dandies, Lucky Hunters. Psychedelic r’n’r night. Parties: Apr 10, 24 Reggae party. Apr 16 Zombie party. Night of the living dead. Apr 17 FPT party. DJs Sirmo, Péló. Apr 30 Portugal Mayday. Special guest: Mike Stellar. Pécsi Est Café Kereskedõk Háza, ground floor, Rákóczi út 46 (06 20 667 8800 mobile/www. pecsiestcafe.hu). Impressive brunch-to-bedtime large-scale operation incorporating a stage, DJ decks, classic Hungarian restaurant and expansive sports bar. Ideal place to catch a band – long bar counter, sharp staff, friendly vibe amid the partyhungry mixed crowd. Gigs: Apr 9-11 Fringe Festival concerts. (See p23). Apr 16 Braindogs. Tom Waits songs performed by an international supergroup. FREE Parties: Apr 9-10, 16-17, 23-24, 30-May 1 Kultúrdiszkó Szenes Klub Ifjúság útja 6 (242 553 ex 4476/www.szenesklub. hu). Legendary student venue with a cherished pedigree. It’s a low-frills cellar with a few tables set in a smoky tunnel-like room, with a stage at the back – this is where iconic local band Kispál és a Borz started out. Parties: Apr 6-7, 12-13, 14-15 University party. Toxic Club Király utca 2 (www.toxicmusic.hu). Hilarious late-night punk cellar club right by the main square, run by the irrepressible Tony and frequented by regulars out of a Fellini film. Seems to have a louder-the-better policy on music programming. Gigs: Apr 4 Kuba Libre, Hard Rice, Kornélkül, Fedélzet. Young rock bands celebrate Easter. Apr 5 Decomposed God. Loud Brasilian death metal. Apr 9-11 Fringe Festival concerts. (See p23). Apr 17 Slytract, Sunday Fury, Inside my head, Raze to the ground. Fresh Magyar metal. Apr
Performing Arts Dancing days
Going global Turkish dance troupe to perform in Pécs (circled); Finns Hannat ja Heikit
Performers from Hungary and abroad are coming together in Pécs for an event linked with World Dance Day: the Pécs Dance Marathon.
Coinciding with World Dance Day on April 29, the Pécs Dance Marathon brings international and Hungarian performers together for several days of workshops and shows. The event is underlined by a focus on traditional European
28 Time Out Pécs April 2010
values of music and dance. The Dance Marathon aims to illustrate the varied nature of traditional dance culture with street performances and shows in public places and schools. In the mornings FolkWorkshop programme, musi-
cians and dancers from three countries give short shows of European folk dance to primary and secondary school students. In the afternoons, the public can watch and join in with the dance performances in the ‘Utca-zene’ and ‘Lánc-
tánc’ events, which will bring a festival atmosphere to the town’s pedestrianised zones and the newly built public places. ‘Utca zene’ starts every day at 2pm and ‘Lánc-tánc’ at 4pm. You can bump into festival performers just by walking around the streets. In Jókai tér groups from home and abroad will perform gala shows in the early evenings from 5pm. Representing another European Capital of Culture this year, Istanbul, comes a dance ensemble from Asia Minor, as well as Hannat ja Heikit from Hollola, Finland, and Zespół Góralski Hamernik from Krakow. Pécs Dance Marathon, International Youth Meeting & Folk Workshop, Apr 26-May 1. Various venues
Previews Past and Present The Pécs Ballet celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2010 with two performances that span five decades of choreography. This first, ‘Múlt és Jelen’ (‘Past and Present’), may be considered an apt title. It begins with the ballet ‘Az iszonyat balladája’ (‘The Ballad of Horror’), the first choreography of the company founder, Imre Eck. This new version of Eck’s work will be based on the composition of contemporary composer, Sándor Szokolay. The première is followed by a ballet especially created for the company’s anniversary. Leo Mujić, the internationally known Belgrade-born choreographer, created this one-act piece entitled ‘Change Back’. The audience can look forward to comparing the epochmaking form and language of gestures from 50 years ago with fresh and dynamic choreography of the 21st century. As one Hungarian theatrical magazine described the work of Imre Eck in June 1961, ‘He can
Bóbita Puppet Theatre Mária utca 18 (210 301 / www.bobita.hu).
Fri Apr 9 ‘Hoppáretikül!’ 8.50pm. Free. Adult clown performance.
National Theatre of Pécs – Chamber Theatre Színház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).
Fri Apr 16 & Sat Apr 17 ‘Past and Present’ Ballet evening celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Pécs Ballet 7.30pm. Ft 2,500. Performance in two parts: ‘Az iszonyat balladája’ (‘The Ballad of Horror’) choreographed by company founder Imre Eck followed by ‘Change Back’ by Leo Mujic. See main article.
be modern without denying the roots of classical ballet’. This is precisely what connects the two performances – and the founding members of the Pécs Ballet with the dance company of today.
Ballet evening celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Pécs Ballet , Apr 16 & 17, 7.30pm, Pécs National Theatre – Chamber Theatre, Színház tér 1 Admission Ft2,500 (211 965/ www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).
National Theatre of Pécs – Main stage Színház tér 1 (211 965 / www.pecsinemzetiszinhaz.hu).
Thur Apr 29 World dance day – Gala 7pm. Ft 1,250-2,500. On April 29 two gala evenings will be held in Budapest and Pécs, to be broadcast on state TV. Performers in Pécs will include: the Pécs Balett, Pécs Art High School, Szeged Contemporary Ballet, Duna Art Group and the Presidance Company.
Throughout the city Pécs Dance Marathon
The Hoppáretikül is a clown show for adults where two clowns interact with the audience and do their best to win out. The resulting hilarity comes courtesy of the Pécsi Légitársaság theatre company. The show is a première for Andrea Kiss and Orsolya
Hollósi, producers and actors who started working together at the University Theatre of Pécs. Since then, they have appeared in numerous theatrical projects. In private life they worked as clown doctors in hospitals, which is how they managed to perfect their comic tech-
niques, both as actors and later as producers of plays abroad. Their current show contains no speaking parts, so foreigners can join in the laughs too. Apr 9, 8.50pm, Bóbita Puppet Theatre, Mária utca 18 Free (210 301/www.bobita.hu).
One week of traditional European music and dance in the city’s streets and squares of Pécs – feel free to join in. Every night on Jókai tér, international gala performances will be given by foreign dance groups from Istanbul to Finland, accompanied by musicians from Pécs. See p28.
April 2010 Time Out Pécs 29
Mon Apr 26 – Sat May 1
My Pécs Zoltán Gera – footballer
Courtessy of PA photos
A cult figure and footballing hero in England, Zoltán Gera was raised in Pécs. In 2004, he left Hungary for West Bromwich Albion where he became a fans’ favourite, a hard-working, skilful example for other Hungarian players to follow. Before Gera, English football was considered too fast and tough for Hungarian players. After Gera came Sándor Torghelle, Ákos Buzsaky, Gábor Halmosi, and others. Since his successful transfer to Fulham, Gera has fallen out with Hungary’s national team coach but remains the country’s most experienced and devastating attacking midfielder. Gera is 31 this month, and married with one child. Tell us about your early years in Pécs. Pécs was always the team I supported as a boy – I was one of those who used to hang off the fence for home games. In the 1990s, they had a good team – Pál Dárdai in midfield, László Bodnár, György Kocsis. There often had big crowds. The fences used to shake, I remember. And how did you start as a footballer? My first club was Pécsi Kinizsi. They
30 Time Out Pécs April 2010
were a great bunch of lads there. Then they closed down the youth team and I moved to Harkány. The club coach Zoltán Bódi knew me and a few others so we could start again – I will always be grateful to him. And what other memories do you have? I used to spend a lot of time with my father. He did all kinds of odd jobs, car park attendant, lots of things. We also did a lot of walking in woods around here. But then after Harkány you came back to Pécs? Yes, Antal Róth brought me into the juniors, then the first team. I learned a lot from him. Why did you move to Ferencváros? Everyone was leaving the Pécs team. In the summer of 1999, three of us left for ‘Fradi’. Those two found a rented place, but I was on my own. I’d lived away from Pécs since I was 18. I was used to it. Everyone treated me fairly, I had no complaints. And how was England? To be honest, it’s been six fantastic years. We’ve always felt good here, in Birmingham and in London. We’re happy here. Do you still keep in touch with Pécs? Well, I always look for their result – Harkány’s as well. Harkány are now down in the fifth league but I always see how they do every Saturday. I’m hoping that Pécs will make it back to the top league, the NBI, but we’ll see.
‘I always look for the Pécs result – Harkány’s as well.’ How often do you come back? Sadly because of all my commitments in England, it’s usually only a couple of times a year. And which places do you visit when you come back? I like to go to Tettye, it’s very pretty. There’s also a restaurant there, the Tettye, and quite often we go there. It’s also great just to walk around the hills, the Mecsek. I love it up there. The town’s great too – loads of atmosphere, full of life. I always feel good there. So do you think you’ll stay in England? No, we always planned to come back to Hungary one day. We’re just not yet sure when and where yet. Let’s see what happens here first – these are exciting times at Fulham – but for sure, we’ll be back one day.
Time Out Editor András Papp firstname.lastname@example.org Editor at Large Peterjon Cresswell Deputy Editor Aniko Fenyvesi Art Director Gábor Ocsovai email@example.com Contributors Zoltán Győrffy, Andor Harci, Balázs Pesti, János Haász, Dave Calhoun Photo credits József Hubay p3 (circled), 6, 8-11, 13, 14 (main). Balázs Pesti p14-15. Lajos Kalmár p9 (main), 21. László Körtvélyesi p5 (above), 29 (above). László Inhof p29 (below). Other photos were provided by featured establishments and artists. Cover Photography: Lajos Kalmár Letters to the editor should be sent to: firstname.lastname@example.org Sales Manager Gabriella Rostás email@example.com Distribution Manager János Haász firstname.lastname@example.org Publisher Dániel Bodnár Publication Management Balázs Radovits Advertising sales 06 20 439 7218 Published by DEG Lapkiadó Kft. in a collaboration with Est Lapok Kft. (46 Rákóczi út 7621, Tel: +36 72 214 631, Fax: +36 +36 72 214 631) members of Est Media Group (74-76 Lajos utca, Budapest 1036, Tel: +36 1 436 5000, Fax: +36 1 436 5001) Time Out Pécs is published under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out International Limited, London UK. Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use the trademark, name and logo of “Time Out” are licensed from Time Out Group Limited London UK. © 2010 Printed by Duplex Rota Kft, Északmegyer dűlő 4. 7631 Pécs, Time Out Pécs is published the first week of every month. Advertising deadline is the second Friday of every month. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of the publisher and Time Out Group Limited. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication. Information herein is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. ISSN 2061-6287
Worlds leading urban magazine in Pécs.