Tokyo Diary

Special brew Possibly the world’s most organised beer festival

With sweaty summer gone for another year, it’s time to step out into the cool air and take the city by storm. Whether you want to sink a Bavarian brew at an off-seasonOktoberfest (above), gorge yourself silly on ramen, chuck beans for good luck or dance your way across a giant bowl of noodles to a techno soundtrack, here’s our guide to a very cool Tokyo winter…

Art & Culture Roppongi Crossing 2013: Out of Doubt Roppongi Crossing – Mori Art Museum’s triennial review of the Japanese contemporary art world –is back. This year’s event focuses on artists born in the ’70s and ’80s, including expats. Until Jan 13 Mori Art Museum, 53F Mori Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 6406 6100. www.mori.art.museum/html/eng. ¥1,500.

Art & Culture Tokujin Yoshioka: Crystallize Tokujin Yoshioka is a true dabbler –the artist is known for experimenting in the worlds of art, furniture, architecture and product packaging. This large-scale exhibition brings together brand new pieces and more well-known works such as ‘Rainbow Church’ as well as numerous pieces from the award-winning ‘Crystallized Project’. Until Jan 19 Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum.jp. ¥500.

Enlightening Celebrations at a Tori no Ichi festival

MusicRed Bull Music Academy Weekender This four-day event celebrates 15 years of the Red Bull Music Academy – through the medium of party. Taking place across a range of Tokyo venues, this series of bashes promises performances from the likes of Gilles Peterson, FaltyDL, Toshio Matsuura, and Damo Suzuki. Nov 1-4 Various locations, including WWW in Shibuya, SuperDeluxe in Nishi Azabu, Ba-Tsu Art Gallery & Gallery Common in Omotesando, Liquidroom/Time Out Café in Ebisu, Sound Museum Vision in Shibuya. www.redbullmusicacademy.jp.

Art & Culture Tori no Ichi Join some 600,000 fellow revellers to mark the onset of the frosty season at this lively fair that takes place in shrines across the city. Nov 2, 3, 14, 15, 26 and 27 Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku, Otori Shrine in Meguro, Ohtori Shrine in Asakusa, and various other shrines around Tokyo. www.hanazono-jinja.or.jp, www.ootorijinja.or.jp and www.otorisima.or.jp. Free.

Eating & DrinkingTokyo Ramen Show 2013 Some of the nation’s most legendary noodle shops come together. Expect to taste some mindblowing one-off ramen collaborations. Chopsticks at the ready… Nov 15 to 24Komazawa Olympic Park General Sports Ground, 1-1 Komazawa-Koen, Setagaya. www.ramenshow.com (Japanese). Free entry; ramen tickets ¥800. Film Screen Beauties Vol.2: Catherine Deneuve The Screen Beauties series celebrates former silver-screen stars through digitally remastered film. This edition celebrates Ms Deneuve through three of her best-loved movies: ‘Mississippi Mermaid’, ‘Manon 70’ and ‘The Umbrellas of Cherbourg’. Nov 16-Dec 6 Shinjuku Piccadilly, 3-15-15 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. www.screenbeauties.com. Shinjuku station. Prices and times vary.

Film Tokyo Filmex 14th edition This year’s Filmex introduces movies by rising directors from across Asia and the Middle East,with special screenings and talks. Nov 23-Dec 1 Yurakucho Asahi Hall, 11F Yurakucho Mullion, 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda. 03 3560 6393. www.filmex.net/ 2013. Prices vary.

NightlifeSuper Oktoberfest in Tokyo Dome 2013 Japan has more than its fair share of Oktoberfests (and not in October), but it’s worth saving yourself for the big one – this year celebrating its 11th anniversary – that transforms Tokyo Dome into a gigantic beer hall. Nov 28-Dec 1 Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. www.superoktoberfest.jp. 03 5733 1028.

Film ASVOFF Tokyo 2013 Short touring film festival with a fashion and beauty theme. Curated by journalist Diane Pernet – whose fashion blog is one of the most viewed in the world – it showcases feature films, docs and installations from established artists and talented newcomers. Catch works by Japanese directors, as well as screenings of ad campaigns for luxe brands from around the world. Nov 29-Dec 1 Idol B1F, 5-11-9 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. www. ashadedviewon fashionfilm.com.

Music Electraglide 2013 James Blake, Sherwood & Pinch, Factory Floor, 2manyDJs and Machinedrum are among the names who’ll be shaking the crowds at this year’s Electraglide all-nighter. Nov 29 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba-shi, Chiba. www.electraglide.info. ¥9,800 on the door; ¥8,800 adv.

Music The Piano Era 2013 Some of the world’s most renowned pianists – think Akiko Yano, Masakatsu Takagi, André Mehmari, Nora Sarmoria and Nils Frahm – get together for an homage to the keys. Nov 30-Dec 1 Meguro Persimmon Hall, 1-1-1 Yakumo, Meguro. 03 6310 9553.www.tinyurl.com/ TOTnovus. One-day ticket: ¥7,500 on the day; ¥6,500 adv. Two-day ticket: ¥12,000.

Art & Culture The Sekaiichi Exhibition This carefully curated exhibition throws the spotlight on Japan’s

Run for the hills And find a good spot to watch the others sweat it out Shady business Festival goers at Womb Adventure 13

world-class craftmanship, with more than 170 cultural and industrial artefacts available for your perusal. Dec 7-May 6 National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation, 2-3-6 Aomi (Odaiba), Koto. 03 3570 9188. www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/en. ¥1,000.

Food & DrinkTechno Udon Techno Udon returns for another noodle-stomping round. Participants get to knead noodles with their feet to the rhythm of early morning techno. If it’s anything like last time, expect batches of noodles to be served up in the afternoon (with additional flavouring…). Dec 7 Eats and Meets Cay, B1F Spiral Bldg, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3498 5790. ¥2,000 adv, ¥2,300 on the door.

Music Elvis Costello and The Imposters Elvis Costello and The Imposters christen the stage at the brand

new EX Theater Roppongi (openingnew EX Theater Roppongi (opening November 30) for three superNovember 30) for three super swinging nights. swinging nights. Dec 11-13EX Theater Roppongi, 1Dec 11-13EX Theater Roppongi, 1 Nishiazabu, Minato. 03 3444 6751.Nishiazabu, Minato. 03 3444 6751. www.ex-theater.com. ¥8,000. www.ex-theater.com. ¥8,000.

Nightlife Womb Adventure ’13Nightlife Womb Adventure ’13 The hugely popular dance festivalThe hugely popular dance festival returns again, this time with returns again, this time with Richie Hawtin headlining.Richie Hawtin headlining. Dec 14 Makuhari Messe, 2-1Dec 14 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba-shi, Nakase, Mihama, Chiba-shi, Chiba. 03 5459 0039. www.wombChiba. 03 5459 0039. www.womb adventure.jp. ¥7,000 on the day;adventure.jp. ¥7,000 on the day; ¥5,500 adv (until Nov 26); ¥6,000¥5,500 adv (until Nov 26); ¥6,000 adv (from Nov 27).adv (from Nov 27).

Art & CultureGishi-saiArt & CultureGishi-sai Tough crowdTough crowd Every year, Tokyoites gather at the graves of 47 Ronin (masterless Every year, Tokyoites gather at the graves of 47 Ronin (masterless Fight the masses at Roppongi Hills Christmas Market Fight the masses at Roppongi Hills Christmas Market Tough crowd Fight the masses at Setagaya Boroichi samurai). Gishi-sai is held in honoursamurai). Gishi-sai is held in honour of the feudal lord of Ako Asanoof the feudal lord of Ako Asano Takuminokami, who was unjustlyTakuminokami, who was unjustly Shopping & Style Shopping & Style killed and later avenged by said killed and later avenged by said Christmas Markets Christmas Markets 47 Ronin. For a Hollywood version 47 Ronin. For a Hollywood version Need to stock up for the festiveNeed to stock up for the festive of the legend, catch the forthcomingof the legend, catch the forthcoming season? Head to the Roppongi Hillsseason? Head to the Roppongi Hills Keanu Reeves film entitled,Keanu Reeves film entitled, Christmas Market (pictured, above) from Nov 30 Christmas Market (pictured, above) accurately enough, ‘47 Ronin’.accurately enough, ‘47 Ronin’. and Tokyo Midtown Marche de Noeland Tokyo Midtown Marche de Noel Dec 14 Gishi-sai. Sengakuji Temple,Dec 14 Gishi-sai. Sengakuji Temple, (among others) for gifts, seasonal from Nov 14 (among others) for gifts, seasonal Minato. www.sengakuji.or.jp. Free.Minato. www.sengakuji.or.jp. Free. nibbles and a hefty dose of funnibbles and a hefty dose of fun festive cheer. festive cheer. Shopping & Style SetagayaShopping & Style Setagaya Until Dec 25Until Dec 25 BoroichiBoroichi Around 700 stalls line the streets Around 700 stalls line the streets Music TaikoMusic Taiko for a flea market with serious staying power. It’s been going for more than 400 years, and still draws hordes and hordes of determined bargain hunters. Dec 15 & 16; Jan 15 & 16 Near Setagaya station. www.tinyurl.com/TOTseta. Free. IMAGES: ©TOKYO MARATHON FOUNDATION for a flea market with serious staying power. It’s been going for more than 400 years, and still draws hordes and hordes of determined bargain hunters. Dec 15 & 16; Jan 15 & 16 Near Setagaya station. www.tinyurl.com/TOTseta. Free. Dance to the beat of Kodo’s drums when the group, one of Japan’s biggest taiko ensembles, culminate their countrywide tour in Tokyo. Dec 20-23Tokyo Bunkyo Civic Hall Dai-Hall. 0570 00 3117. www.kodo.or.jp/oet. Tickets from ¥5,000 adults, ¥3,000 conc. Dance to the beat of Kodo’s drums when the group, one of Japan’s biggest taiko ensembles, culminate their countrywide tour in Tokyo. Dec 20-23Tokyo Bunkyo Civic Hall Dai-Hall. 0570 00 3117. www.kodo.or.jp/oet. Tickets from ¥5,000 adults, ¥3,000 conc.

Art & CultureSenso-ji New Year’sArt & CultureSenso-ji New Year’s large prayer meetinglarge prayer meeting Give 2014 a warm welcome withGive 2014 a warm welcome with prayers in the temple for a year ofprayers in the temple for a year of safety, good fortune and health.safety, good fortune and health. Jan 1-7 Senso-ji, 2-3-1 Asakusa,Jan 1-7 Senso-ji, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. www.senso-ji.jp.Taito. www.senso-ji.jp.

Music Jamie Cullum Music Jamie Cullum The jazz-pop star’s first visit to Japan The jazz-pop star’s first visit to Japan since 2010 kicks off a nationwide since 2010 kicks off a nationwide key-tinkling tour. key-tinkling tour. Jan 29 & 30 Orchard Hall, Jan 29 & 30 Orchard Hall, Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 3477 9999. Shibuya. 03 3477 9999. www.bunkamura.co.jp. ¥6,500 adv. www.bunkamura.co.jp. ¥6,500 adv.

Art & Culture Senso-ji SetsubunArt & Culture Senso-ji Setsubun (bean-scattering) ceremony(bean-scattering) ceremony Join crowds of up to 100,000 atJoin crowds of up to 100,000 at Senso-ji temple’s setsubunSenso-ji temple’s setsubun ceremony – where participantsceremony – where participants throw special beans to cast off thethrow special beans to cast off the previous year’s bad vibes.previous year’s bad vibes. Feb 3 Senso-ji, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito.Feb 3 Senso-ji, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. www.senso-ji.jp.www.senso-ji.jp.

Sport & Fitness Tokyo Marathon Sport & Fitness Tokyo Marathon The Marathon returns for its eighth The Marathon returns for its eighth year, with some 36,000 runners set year, with some 36,000 runners set to tear up the streets. Find a good to tear up the streets. Find a good sideline spot and cheer participants sideline spot and cheer participants on as they sprint/shuffle past. on as they sprint/shuffle past. Feb 23 Starts from Tokyo Feb 23 Starts from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Metropolitan Government Building, Shinjuku. Building, Shinjuku. www.tokyo42195.org/2014. www.tokyo42195.org/2014.

Want more upcomingWant more upcoming events? Go online toevents? Go online to timeout.com/tokyotimeout.com/tokyo

New Year’s Eve is Tokyo’sNew Year’s Eve is Tokyo’s most hyped celebration most hyped celebration of the year. While most NYEof the year. While most NYE gigs and club nights weregigs and club nights were not confirmed at time ofnot confirmed at time of going to press, here aregoing to press, here are three typically mammoththree typically mammoth ways to mark the moment…ways to mark the moment…

HATSUMODE: FIRSTHATSUMODE: FIRST PRAYERPRAYER Dec 31Dec 31 Expect big crowds at Tokyo’sExpect big crowds at Tokyo’s shrines for the first prayer, as wellshrines for the first prayer, as well as food and drink stalls to keepas food and drink stalls to keep you entertained. The atmosphereyou entertained. The atmosphere is lively, and many shrines haveis lively, and many shrines have traditional shows such as Shishitraditional shows such as Shishimai, a lion dance, in which you canmai, a lion dance, in which you can feed the beast (or person infeed the beast (or person in costume) and earn some goodcostume) and earn some good luck. Meiji is the biggest, but prettyluck. Meiji is the biggest, but pretty much every shrine will be open much every shrine will be open and bustling on New Year. and bustling on New Year. See www.timeout.com/tokyo See www.timeout.com/tokyo for more. Free (but take coinsfor more. Free (but take coins for praying).for praying).

COUNTDOWN JAPAN 13/14COUNTDOWN JAPAN 13/14 Dec 28-Tue 31Dec 28-Tue 31 This annual indoor music festival inThis annual indoor music festival in neighbouring Chiba features moreneighbouring Chiba features more than its fair share of top Japanesethan its fair share of top Japanese bands. This year’s lineup includesbands. This year’s lineup includes Orange Range, Scandal and Tricot.Orange Range, Scandal and Tricot. Makuhari Messe, Mihama, Chiba.Makuhari Messe, Mihama, Chiba. www.countdownjapan.jp. Ticketswww.countdownjapan.jp. Tickets from ¥9,500.from ¥9,500.

FIREMAN FESTIVALFIREMAN FESTIVAL Jan 6Jan 6 Every year, the Tokyo FireEvery year, the Tokyo Fire Department puts on a nerveDepartment puts on a nervejangling display of stunts at the jangling display of stunts at the top of towering bamboo ladders,top of towering bamboo ladders, both to commemorate how theboth to commemorate how the Japanese used to fight fires Japanese used to fight fires during the Edo period (byduring the Edo period (by destroying buildings around thedestroying buildings around the fire to enclose it. Well it’s one wayfire to enclose it. Well it’s one way to do it…) and to pray for a safe to do it…) and to pray for a safe year ahead. Hear, hear.year ahead. Hear, hear. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake,Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto, Tokyo. See www.timeout.Koto, Tokyo. See www.timeout. com/tokyo for more. Free.com/tokyo for more. Free.

Visions of Shibuya

LOCAL INSIGHT Constantly evolving, Shibuya is a district with its eyes firmly set on the future. With its exciting multimilliondollar overhaul already motion, the new Tokyo starts here…

The Shibuya district is synonymous with the image of Tokyo in many people’s minds –and yet it is constantly changing. One of the best examples of this is Shibuya station: as place that is used daily by some 3 million people, it is a terminus that represents all of Japan, but it has recently undergone a huge transformation.

Inspired by the idea to ‘make Shibuya the most desirable destination in Japan’, the new multistorey complex Shibuya Hikarie, which connects to Shibuya station, was opened on April 26 2012. And on March 16 2013, the Toyoko Line and the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line were connected, forming a wide rail network from Yokohama, through Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, and all the way to southern Saitama. Plans for further development are on the way. So where will all this change lead?

Three blocks of land around Shibuya will be the main stage for this large-scale development, dubbed ‘a development with the next 100 years in mind’. At its core will be three towers that will become symbols of Shibuya to surpass Shibuya Hikarie. The east tower, which opens for business in 2020 –when Tokyo hosts the Olympics –will be about 755 feet tall. Lower floors will be for retail and above them will be an office floor with an area of around 753,500 square feet –the largest such space in the Shibuya station area. The central tower (about 200 feet) and the west tower (about 250 feet), which will host businesses, are to open in 2027. All the business premises combined will cover an area of around 753,500 square feet, the largest in all of Japan. Architects from Kengo Kumaand Associates and the internationally renowned SANAA have been appointed to design the lower floors of the buildings and the open space.

Future city plan What’s in store for the station in the coming years

The ‘southern block development plan’ will Shibuya Tokyu Plaza into a 390-foot-tall revolve around a 33-floor complex to be used complex with high-class offices on its upper mainly for office space (to open in 2017). When floors and retail premises on its middle floors. finished, a total of some 480,000 square feet of The complex is to open in 2018. A bus terminal office space will be availableon the including airport limousine upper floors. The middle floors will stations will be installed on the have a 200-room hotel, and on the first floor, and a pedestrian deck lower floors will be a hall, retail premises and other facilities that A development connected to the ‘station block’ will also be built. blur the boundary between work and play. There are also plans for two open spaces as well as a with the next 100 years When these large-scale developments are completed in 2027, Shibuya will be completely promenade almost 2,000 feet long surrounded by greenery. The goal is in mind reborn as an entertainment city that will make businesses and cityto create an environment that will enhance savvy people around the world sit up and take innovation and interaction among those who note. With the establishment of a new work in the creative industries. environment that cultivates innovation and

The ‘Dogenzaka block development plan’ is culture, Shibuya will surely continue to lead expected to be revived at the east side of Shibuya Tokyo – and Japan – as the country’s most station. The plan is to reconstruct the current desirable destination.

Urban paradise Shibuya’s vision for model city living

It may be hard to imagine given its bustling image, but in the Edo period, Shibuya was a tranquil rural area. Aoyama Road (formerly the Oyama Road) linked Shibuya to other towns during this time. If you exited Edo Castle (currently in Chiyoda Ward), passed through the Akasaka Gate and followed the Aoyama Road, you would see the grand estates of the shogun retainers extending all the way to Aoyama. And past Miyamazuzaka asuzaka a serene landscape would unfurl. Aoyama Road extended all the way to Numazu in Shizuoka Prefecture, and served as a crucial partner to the Tokaido Highway that ran from Tokyo to Kyoto. Just as Ueno is today seen by residents of Tohoku as Tokyo’s front door, in the Edo period the travellers coming to Edo from Osaka, Kyoto and other western regions considered Shibuya to be the gateway to Edo.

At the start of the Meiji era, to support the economy of the burgeoning metropolis of ‘Tokyo’, the new government instituted reforms, and Shibuya transformed into an area rich in agriculture. By the end of the Meiji period, the Tamagawa Railway was in place, and Shibuya station was converted into a terminus. Once the Yoyogi army parade ground was finished and military bases were moved in, Shibuya began morphing into the urban landscape familiar today.

In the early Showa period (1926- 1989) the railway operator Tokyu (nowTokyu Corporation) gained firm control over Shibuya and when the Seibu department store opened after WW2, a development war broke out. Shibuya went on to earn a reputation as the top retail and entertainment district in Tokyo.

Nowadays, Shibuya is a hub that links Aoyama, Harajuku, Omotesando, Ebisu, Daikanyama, Yoyogi-Uehara, Nakameguro and other fashionable districts that are popular with young people. Shibuya overflows with people, life and energy – and it is showing no signs of slowing down.

LOCAL INSIGHT W hen people outside Japan think of Tokyo, odds on they’re thinking of the district where fashion, technology, commuter crowds and neon clouds are all at their most intense. And to prove it, here are the facts and figures –compiled by the advertising agency Tokyu’s Research Institute – that reveal why, among the capital’s wards, Shibuya has the edge…

IT’S NUMBER 1 ON MOST FOREIGN VISITORS’ LISTS When asked, ‘Which areas did you visit in Tokyo?’ 42.5% of respondents cited Shibuya, compared to 41.8% who mentioned Shinjuku, and those who said Ginza (38.1%), Akihabara (33.6%) or Asakusa (33.4%).

SHIBUYA IS AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF TOKYO TECH With almost twice as many IT firms as any other district, Shibuya has 124 technology firms (compared to Shinjuku’s 78, Shinbashi/Shiodome’s 35, and Ginza/Yurakucho’s 34).

SHIBUYA WARD IS THE MOST FASHIONABLE WARD IN TOKYO … though only just. Shibuya is home to 19 fashion industry premises, compared to Shinjuku ward’s 18 and the 12 found in Chou/Toshima ward. uo

SHIBUYA IS A MECCA FOR MUSIC There is a total of 67 music venues in Shibuya – more than in Shinjuku (22), Roppongi (14), Ikebukuro (12) and Ginza/Yurakucho (11) combined.

SHIBUYA IS A PARADISE FOR FREELANCERS AND START-UPS … with more shared offices than any other in Tokyo: Shibuya ward has 37, Minato ward 27, Chiyoda ward 18, Chuo ward 11 and Shinjuku ward has 8.

HACHIKO SQUARE IS TOKYO’S FAVOURITE MEETING SPOT When more than 1,400 people were asked about their favourite meeting places in Tokyo, 79% included Shibuya’s Hachiko Square on their list –the clear favourite above Shinjku Alta (cited by 58%), Gin no Suzu at Tokyo station (30%) and the Moyai statue (also in Shibuya (22%).

Hachiko statue

SHIBUYA OFFERS THE MOST DIVERSE FOOD IN TOKYO In Shibuya you can find restaurants serving 27 different types of ethnic cuisine – compared to 26 varieties in Shinjuku, 25 in Ginza/Yurakucho and 23 in Roppongi.

Recommended cultural spots in Shibuya

TOKYU HANDS From stationery to toilet-seat covers, this is the largest household-goods store in Tokyo. Particularly interesting is the party supplies section, which gives a unique glimpse into the Japanese sense of humour. It can be difficult to find your way around the multitude of floors. 12-18 Udagawa-cho. 03 5489 5111. www.tokyu-hands.co.jp.

SHIBUYA PUBLISHING BOOKSELLERS Staff at this ultra-hip Shibuya book shop are more interested in encouraging new discoveries than hawking the latest bestseller. It’s a rewarding place to browse even if you can’t read most of what you’re looking at – though they do stock some English titles. 17-3 Kamiyamacho. 03 5465 0588. www.shibuyabooks.net.

d47 MUSEUM The eighth-floor museum in the towering Shibuya Hikarie building is all about spreading the love. Themes change every one to three months, from architecture to crafts, food, fashion and the environment. Next-door there is d47 SHOKUDO, which serves food from all 47 prefectures. 8F Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya. 03 6427 2301. www.d47museum.com.

POSTALCO This classy stationery and accessory shop started life in Brooklyn, New York in 2000, and did a lengthy stint in Kyobashi before relocating to its new home in Shibuya in 2012. If you prefer paper to iPads, you’ll love their notebooks with cotton covers and travel bags sturdy enough to carry a stack of hardbacks. 3F, 1-6-3 Dogenzaka. 03 6455 0531. www.postalco.net.

This is Japan’s most famous scramble crossing, where the spectacle of people who come and go from Shibuya station and its surrounding streets, and intertwine like a human flood is often seen in the media. At this scramble crossing, which is not only well known in Japan but also internationally, approximately 2,500 pedestrians start walking in chorus when the lights turn green.

WINNER INTERNATIONAL CATEGORY 2010, 2011, 2013