Eating

Eating & Drinking Hiya, izakaya! Bar food at a traditional izakaya is an ideal way to try a whole range of Japanese cuisine in one tasty hit. Sayaka Kawabe compiles our shortlist of small plates  TAMAGOYAKI ‘Jikasei oyako atsuyaki tamago’, ¥600 T he izakaya is to off-the-clock Tokyoites what a cosy local is to London office workers. Hiya, izakaya! Bar food at a traditional izakaya is an ideal way to try a whole range of Japanese cuisine in one tasty hit. Sayaka Kawabe compiles our shortlist of small plates  TAMAGOYAKI ‘Jikasei oyako atsuyaki tamago’, ¥600 T he izakaya is to off-the-clock Tokyoites what a cosy local is to London office workers. You might recognise tamagoyaki, At these intimate drinking holes, You might recognise tamagoyaki, At these intimate drinking holes, a Japanese omelette, as a sushi sake (rice wine), shochu (liquor) and a Japanese omelette, as a sushi sake (rice wine), shochu (liquor) and topping. Yamariki’s take, flavoured beer are traditionally served with topping. Yamariki’s take, flavoured beer are traditionally served with an assortment of small dishes. Time Out Tokyo went to the an assortment of small dishes. Time Out Tokyo went to the withdashi and sugar, is called ‘Oyako Atsuyaki Tamago’ (‘Parent and Child withdashi and sugar, is called ‘Oyako Atsuyaki Tamago’ (‘Parent and Child   Partial arts Perfect nibbles to go with tipples at Yamariki izakaya Partial arts Perfect nibbles to go with tipples at Yamariki izakaya venerable Yamariki, an izakayavenerable Yamariki, an izakaya Thick Egg Roll’): yep, that’ll be an eggThick Egg Roll’): yep, that’ll be an egg that’s been operating in thethat’s been operating in the roll filled with minced chicken and Tsukiji Market, and boil the tofu in beer in izakayas. But more and more roll filled with minced chicken and Tsukiji Market, and boil the tofu in beer in izakayas. But more and more Shitamachi area for the past Shitamachi area for the past mitsuba (parsley).mitsuba (parsley). kudzuyu (kudzu arrowroot gruel).kudzuyu (kudzu arrowroot gruel). restaurants are serving terrines forrestaurants are serving terrines for 90 years, to pick our way through 90 years, to pick our way through wine drinkers. Yamariki’s Frenchwine drinkers. Yamariki’s Frenchthe menu on your behalf (don’tthe menu on your behalf (don’t   FUGU SASHIMIFUGU SASHIMI   YAKITONYAKITON cuisine-certified chefs whip upcuisine-certified chefs whip up ‘ Fugu sashimi sakaba-fu’, ¥1,000 mention it). And here are our top ten ‘Yakiton’, ¥300 (two pieces) ‘ Fugu sashimi sakaba-fu’, ¥1,000 mention it). And here are our top ten ‘Yakiton’, ¥300 (two pieces) chicken liver paste with a shoulderchicken liver paste with a shoulder It’s well known that fugu sashimi, the diminutive dishes to try (described Among Japanese skewered dishes, loin of pork to create the right It’s well known that fugu sashimi, the diminutive dishes to try (described Among Japanese skewered dishes, loin of pork to create the right delicious yet potentially lethal raw with generic names and as listed on yakitori (chicken) is perhaps best texture: the result goes well with delicious yet potentially lethal raw with generic names and as listed on yakitori (chicken) is perhaps best texture: the result goes well with the Yamariki menu)… the Yamariki menu)… pufferfish dish, can only be prepared known. But yakiton, the pork version, beer, wine and sake. pufferfish dish, can only be prepared known. But yakiton, the pork version, beer, wine and sake. by specialist chefs. But in recent years is growing in popularity. Yamarikiby specialist chefs. But in recent years is growing in popularity. Yamariki   HASHOUGA WITH MISO HASHOUGA WITH MISO it’s been easier to buy ready-sliced, offers ten types of pork skewers for  SPARE RIBS it’s been easier to buy ready-sliced, offers ten types of pork skewers for  SPARE RIBS and is now often found in izakayas. ‘Namayasai no yakimiso zoe’, ¥650 the brave, including: giblets, cheeks, ‘Spare rib’, ¥1,200 and is now often found in izakayas. ‘Namayasai no yakimiso zoe’, ¥650 the brave, including: giblets, cheeks, ‘Spare rib’, ¥1,200 A traditional accompaniment toA traditional accompaniment to Come on. You only live once…Come on. You only live once… temples, cartilage and largetemples, cartilage and large Another brilliant dish for novices, butAnother brilliant dish for novices, but alcohol, hashouga (ginger shoots) alcohol, hashouga (ginger shoots) intestines. We recommend going sadly not available in all izakayas. intestines. We recommend going sadly not available in all izakayas. is eaten raw, dipped in miso sauce.  is eaten raw, dipped in miso sauce.  NUTA SAUCENUTA SAUCE the whole hog.the whole hog. Fragrant meat dishes with fineFragrant meat dishes with fine ‘Aburikaki to wakegi no nuta’, ¥700 Many restaurants pep up the miso ‘Aburikaki to wakegi no nuta’, ¥700 Many restaurants pep up the miso texture are always big hits withtexture are always big hits with Its viscous consistency reminiscent with dashi (soup stock) and mirin  MOTSUNI Its viscous consistency reminiscent with dashi (soup stock) and mirin  MOTSUNI Japanese diners, and pork spareJapanese diners, and pork spare (a rice wine used for cooking); at(a rice wine used for cooking); at of a marshy field (numata), nutaof a marshy field (numata), nuta ‘Nikomi tamago iri’, ¥630 ‘Nikomi tamago iri’, ¥630 ribs are the cat’s whiskers.ribs are the cat’s whiskers. sauce is a traditional salad dressing Yamariki, they use Tokyo-produced Different regions and restaurants Yamariki’s are simply seasoned sauce is a traditional salad dressing Yamariki, they use Tokyo-produced Different regions and restaurants Yamariki’s are simply seasoned yanaka ginger.yanaka ginger. made with miso, vinegar and chilli. have their own variations on this made with miso, vinegar and chilli. have their own variations on this with salt. And what’s their idealwith salt. And what’s their ideal Yamariki pairs it with oysters and stew made from the giblets of pigs, accompaniment? Just like ribs in Yamariki pairs it with oysters and stew made from the giblets of pigs, accompaniment? Just like ribs in   SMOKED FOODSSMOKED FOODS wakegi spring onions in winter, and cows or chickens. But the one at wakegi spring onions in winter, and cows or chickens. But the one at every other bar on the planet: beer.every other bar on the planet: beer. ‘Kunsei moriawase’, ¥900‘Kunsei moriawase’, ¥900 with golden cuttlefish in summer. Yamariki is made with a special broth Yamariki izakaya. 2-18-8 Morishita, with golden cuttlefish in summer. Yamariki is made with a special broth Yamariki izakaya. 2-18-8 Morishita, Wood-smoking has been used toWood-smoking has been used to that, they say, their chefs have been Koto. 03 3633 1638. www.yamariki. that, they say, their chefs have been Koto. 03 3633 1638. www.yamariki. make dishes such as katsuobushi  make dishes such as katsuobushi  YUDOUFUYUDOUFU topping up for nearly 40 years. topping up for nearly 40 years. com. Morishita station. 5-10pmcom. Morishita station. 5-10pm ‘Kakiiri yudofu’, ¥800 A warming winter dish, yudofu (boiled tofu) is cooked in a pot with flavoursome konbu seaweed. Yamariki chefs use momendofu (firm tofu) from the famous tofu shop in For the latest bar and restaurant reviews go to timeout.com/tokyo (dried tuna flakes) since ancient times. Smoked seafood and meat go well with booze, which is why they are found on most izakaya menus. At Yamariki, they serve smoked bacon, which takes a week to prepare.  TERRINE ‘Butaniku to torireba no terrine’, ¥800 Chicken liver terrine has always been a classic accompaniment for Mon-Sat (except public holidays). ‘Kakiiri yudofu’, ¥800 A warming winter dish, yudofu (boiled tofu) is cooked in a pot with flavoursome konbu seaweed. Yamariki chefs use momendofu (firm tofu) from the famous tofu shop in For the latest bar and restaurant reviews go to timeout.com/tokyo (dried tuna flakes) since ancient times. Smoked seafood and meat go well with booze, which is why they are found on most izakaya menus. At Yamariki, they serve smoked bacon, which takes a week to prepare.  TERRINE ‘Butaniku to torireba no terrine’, ¥800 Chicken liver terrine has always been a classic accompaniment for Mon-Sat (except public holidays). PHOTOGRAPHY: TOSHIO SATO

Dodgy grounds? Not these days… Find a decent cup at Fuglen (left) and Nozy (right)

COFFEE TO GO! Perk up at top coffee stands Little Nap at Yoyogi Park, or Bear Pond Espresso in Shimokitazawa.

Prospects for caffeine fiends in the capital have perked up, as –just like the rest of the world –Tokyo has seen a recent flourishing of independent, conscientious coffee houses. Here’s our carefully filtered selection… T okyo: nice city, shame about the coffee. This used to be a standard complaint among Central Tokyo espressos, lattes and drip brews –and it’s ideally located to ensnare office drones on their way to work. Tocoro Cafe For elegant, ritualised sipping A minimal, uncluttered interior foreign residents and visitors alike. Brazil coffee,¥480 . 1-6-6 Ebisu, provides an apt setting for the Even those with a natural aversion Shibuya. unlikely –and surprisingly to Seattle’s most famous coffee successful –fusion of coffee export would be forced to resort Streamer Coffee Company making and Sado, the ancient to the nearest Starbucks for a cup For coffee as an art form Japanese tea ceremony. of Joe halfway palatable. While the free wi-fi and communal Blended coffee, ¥600. And while part of the problem was seating are nice touches, it’s the 3-38-2 Shimouma, Setagaya. down to ignorance (Café de l’Ambre ‘extreme latte art’ of owner Hiroshi has been open since 1948, for crying Sawada and his crew of eager out loud), the worthwhile places baristas that keeps people coming North Tokyo generally took a lot of effort to find, back for more. with outlets specialising in espresso Identity Coffee Bar + Gallery Streamer Latte, ¥520. 1-20-28 Coffee Tei being particularly thin on the ground. For hardcore coffee nerds Shibuya, Shibuya. For homesick Brits

No more. The last few years This is the first Japanese outpost Try not to be distracted by the decor –have seen a sharp increase in the of Chicago-based roasters Cafe de l’Ambre equal parts British pub and British number of serious-minded coffee Intelligentsia.Here you can choose For authentic Tokyo café culture tea room – and immerse yourself in makers plying their trade around single-origin beans that are tagged ‘Coffee Only’ reads the sign outside a coffee menu that’s the size of the capital, many of them roasting not just by country but by their this bustling shop, which has served a guidebook. their own beans and helming heavyparticular farms. the Ginza hordes since 1948. Soak Blended coffee, ¥735. 1-7-2 duty espresso machines. Blended coffee, ¥490. 1F Ares up the heritage and take your pick Ikebukuro, Toshima.

Moreover, with the odd exception, GardenOmotesando, 4-28-4 from 30-odd varieties. most of them actually know what Jingumae, Shibuya. Blended coffee, ¥650. 8-10-15 they’re doing, too. Time Out Tokyo’s Ginza, Chuo. South Tokyo bean testers are well used to Fuglen trawling the city in search of Tokyo’s For Scandinavian style Primoordine best coffee shops, and we’re When it isn’t whipping up cocktails, West Tokyo For a classic Italian experience increasingly impressed by how many this Oslo importserves some tasty In true Italian style, coffee here is smart, high-quality places we are Norwegian roasts: the espressos are Nozy Coffee cheaper if you drink it standing at discovering. But terraforming Tokyo good; the AeroPress is outstanding. For a hot hipster hangout the counter. Primoordine even runs from scorched-coffee desert to Espresso, ¥250 (single). 16-11 The kids behind the counter are an ‘academy’ to school coffee perfectly roasted oasis is a work in Tomigaya, Shibuya. barely out of university, but they’re newcomers in the art of pouring. progress. If we’ve missed your already making some of the best So laid back it’s practically favourite spot, let us know via Sarutahiko Coffee coffee in town. decaffeinated. Twitter: @TimeOutTokyo. Otherwise, For office fuel Latte, ¥350. 2-29-7 Shimouma, Blended coffee, ¥420. 2-11-20 read on for our crème de la crème… Ebisu’s dinkiest café spot excels at Setagaya. Higashigaoka, Meguro.

The lively Tsukiji Market has become one of the capital’s most popular –and pungent –attractions. Every day (barring Sundays, public holidays and some Wednesdays when the market is closed) Japanese and foreign tourists alike school towards the outer market. This is the section where those who aren’t interested in purchasing tuna by the shipping unit are admitted to browse Tokyo’s freshest seafood. Visitor numbers have increased dramatically in recent years, and the influx of tourists has brought plenty of changes to the market – the most welcome of which are the shops and stalls that have sprung up to cater to the world’s increasing culinary curiousity. Get there in the morning (Tsukiji Market is usually open to the public from 5am and many of the vendors shut up shop by 11am) and be warned: the food choices can be as difficult to navigate as the market itself. Here’s our guide to the best snacks to reel in on your way through…

 SALTED SKEWERED SHRIMP Tsukiji Kaihokan Kachidoki Sushi Sou-Honten The shrimp on offer here is the archetypal Tokyo street snack. There are plenty of other options too, including grilled scallops, king crab, oysters and fried tuna. Head to the first floor for rice bowl dishes, or the second floor for multi-course meals. 4-13-7 Tsukiji. 03 5565 3907. 10am-3pm, 5-10pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10-8pm Sun.

 AGE KAMABOKO Tsukugon This veteran store has been in business for around 140 years, selling seafood-paste products such as hanpen (a pounded fish cake) and date-maki (a rolled omelette mixed with fish paste). Recommended is its age kamaboko –fried white fish that’s mixed with chopped onion and wrapped in bacon. 4-9-11 Tsukiji. 03 3542 0180. 6am-2pm Mon-Sat.

choosing difficult, try the crunchy and aromatic fried kujira. 4-10-17 Tsukiji. 03 6278 8194. 9am-2pm daily.

YUMCHA Suga Shoten The oddball of the Tsukiji over-thecounter market, Suga Shoten sells yumcha (dim-sum-like dishes taken with tea) that are cooked up in its billowing steamers. The small meat buns are a good choice – generously stuffed and wrapped in a thin layer of dough. 4-10-2 Tsukiji. 03 3541 9941. 6am-3pm Mon-Sat.

 FILLET CUTLET SANDWICH Senri-ken Senri-ken has been operating since the early Taisho era, selling seafood dishes, fried food and rice bowls. Popular menu choices include stew, cakes and coffee, but we’d have to recommend the fillet cutlet, served up between two slices of buttered toast, and seasoned with a sweet and spicy sauce for a sarnie that’ll send your taste buds spinning. Tsukiji wholesale market, Bldg 8, 5-2-1 Tsukiji. 03 3541 2240. 4am12.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed Sun and public hols.

 FISH PANCAKES! Sanoki-ya Be forewarned: the ‘grilled tuna’ at this outer market isn’t what you might expect. The dish on offer is actually taiyaki, a fish-shaped dessert that consists of a pancake shell filled with red bean paste. Taiyaki literally means bream –but Sanoki-ya’s version is shaped like a tuna. Confused? Don’t worry, it doesn’t taste like either… 4-11-9 Tsukiji. 03 3543 3331. 7am-3pm Mon-Sat. Words: Takeshi Tojo

 WHALE MEAT Kujira no Tomisui It's not for everyone, of course, but if you want to sample fresh whale sashimi, tartare or other dishes, then this is the place to do it –a kujira (whale) shop (the only one within the Tsukiji outer market) that has been stocking whale meat for the past 30 years. If you're finding

Yes it can. Here is our pick of Tokyo’s best newly opened restaurants

Amultitude of fresh eateries Crispy Skin-On Pork Back Ribs for a have opened in Tokyo so far in succulent crunch, however the 2013. New concepts include Charcoal Grilled Pork Fillet also a café modelled on a Parisian packs a lot of flavour. With just four apartment and the mini-bistro, with counter seats on the first floor and room for only ten diners. Each venue 54 table seats on the second floor, strives to express its individuality via you really have to book ahead. its decor, vibe and, of course, 3-7-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 cuisine. Here are our seven picks. 0289. www.facebook.com/ Napkins at the ready... luckyvinnature. 6-10.30pm MonAPPARTEMENT 301 hols. Modelled after the chambres d’hôte of rural France, the antique-style FORT GREEN decor of this newly opened caféA deluxe hipster hangout restaurant is a little disorienting with with a mere ten seats, its clashing patterns and chintzy hidden in a residential lamps. But once you get used to it, neighbourhood on the the Asian-Italian fusion cuisine is a second floor of the John novel and surprisingly successful boutique. Vintage blend. For example, the popular Scandinavian tableware, East Asian Noodle-Style Spaghetti, a fine Coast antiques and the vinyl al dente pasta in tom yum-style being spun in the background make twists, is served with a nam pla, this a pleasant setting to cosy down garlic and herb sauce, and has for an afternoon. Its owner, Makoto enough heat to give you a little kick Asamoto, also opened the popular while making sure you’re compelled café-bakery, Jiyugaoka Bakeshop, so to finish the whole plate. a selection of its breads and pastries 3-4-5 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3561 0620. are on offer. The menu mixes bistro www.atticroom.jp/301. Yurakucho fare such as omelettes with American station. 11.30-11:30pm daily. staples including meatballs and clam ANTICA TRATTORIA CIURI CIURI vintage wines bumps up the cost, but This third branch of Italian restaurant you’ll savour each glass. Don Cicco opened in March 2013 and 18-8 Motoyoyogicho, Shibuya. offers two menus, one for Sicilian 03 5738 5515. www.fort-greene.biz. food, and another for more standard Yoyogi-Uehara station. 1pm-midnight Italian fare. The Sardine and Fennel daily, 3pm-midnight weekend and Pasta is an excellent choice for the public hols. Closed Wed. uninitiated, and the miraculous harmony of texture and aroma will stay with you. The option to have the fish of the day prepared however you like, and the staff’s willingness to accommodate requests, also left a great impression. It’s currently getting so much attention that a reservation is an absolute must. 2-18-20 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 6721 1331. Gaienmae station. Noon-2.30pm and 6-10.30pm, MonSat. Closed public hols. Fri, 3-9pm Sat. Closed public chowder. The high-end selection of

RAKKI This newly opened Cantonese restaurant is the brainchild of Shinsaku Katsuyama, owner of Shonzui, Roppongi’s pioneering ‘vin nature’ wine bar; and Kazuo Kikuchi, tea ceremony master, author and photographer with a deep knowledge of Hong Kong. We recommend the

Super bowls Above and inset: Appartement 301. Centre: Rakki Fort. Bottom: Fort Green

SHINASOBA TANAKA This new restaurant offers culinary art beyond mere ramen. Using strictly seafood-based soups, Shinasoba’s dishes are put together with an inspired and almost experimental understanding of textures and flavours. For instance, the Dried Horse Mackerel Soba combines dried-mackerel and kelp stock with thin, tender noodles, a pork fillet, shredded spring onions and perilla, served with a trefoil, yuzu and celtuce topping. It will change your expectations of ramen forever. 2-19-2 Higashiikebukuro, Toshima. 03 3988 0118. Mukohara station. 11.30-2.30pm daily, 5-8pm Mon-Fri. Closed public hols.

KAGARI This side-street ramen seller in Ginza opened in March 2013, and there has been a daily lunch queue outside ever since. A popular dish is the Cooked Chicken Soba: a thick, rich chicken soup with medium-thick noodles, chicken fillet, asparagus, baby corn and spring onion toppings. The soup is rich, but very mild on the palate and well balanced with the other ingredients. You can adjust the flavour to your tastes by adding fried onions or powdered ginger. Among eateries offering chicken ramen soup, Kagari’s ingenuity remains unchallenged. 4-4-1 Ginza, Chuo. Ginza station. 11-3.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm daily, until 9pm Sat. Closed public hols.

SHINAGAWA Opened in June 2013 as a second branch of soba experts Basso Drill-Man, this restaurant boasts Chinese cuisine a cut above the rest. The soy-based soup is blended with chicken stock for a refined, subtle flavour, and perfectly houses the smooth, medium-fine, homemade noodles. In fact, the pork fillet, spring onions, bamboo shoots and nori toppings play a supporting role to the broth and noodles. The Chinese Soba, Niboshi Soba (with its tasty dried sardines) and Bamboo Shoot Soba are also all worth trying. 4-19-14 Ikebukuro, Toshima. 03 5926 6178. Shimura-Sanchome station. 11.30-3.30pm daily.

LOCAL INSIGHT

Imagine standing at the very top of a brand-new high-rise in the heart of Tokyo. With 52 floors, it rivals the city’s other landmark buildings. Doesn’t the skyline look impressive from up there? Now look down. Instead of a concrete jungle with streams of cars below, there’s an open space dotted with greenery and people strolling, cycling and picnicking. Where’s the traffic? Cleverly, it’s all been pushed out of sight, running directly beneath the development and hidden in an underground tunnel that forms part of ‘the loop road No. 2’.

This ‘city within a city’ concept is set to transform Toranomon, a historic suburb that is known for being a vibrant area bustling with business deals and lively social activity. The area is unique in that it has remained relatively untouched by development, but now, this new project by Mori Building, scheduled to be unveiled under the name Toranomon Hills in 2014, will help to revive the area’s reputation as an epicentre for both work and play, and so attract young creatives, families, foreigners and business owners.

It’s taken over 60 years for the Loop Road No. 2 idea to materialise. Once complete, the 14km road will help to reconnect central Tokyo with the city’s waterfront areas. The section of the road that is due to be completed in 2014 will connect Toranomon to Shimbashi. Toranomon Hills’ main building will tower proudly above this revolutionary transport artery, welcoming guests into an urban oasis where you can shop, dine, work, live, book a spa treatment or even a rooftop wedding reception at lifestyle boutique hotel Andaz Tokyo.

Any way you look at it, the Toranomon of the future is changing our view of city living.

TAKE IN A MUSEUM WITH A VIEW The museum on the 53rd floor of Mori Tower hosts some world-class original exhibitions, with an emphasis on contemporary Japanese and international art. It stays open late, too: from 10am to 10pm daily (except Tuesdays). Mori Art Museum, 53F Mori Tower.

SURVEY THE CITY IN 360° The 52nd floor Tokyo City View observatory is impressive enough, but nothing compares to gazing down at the metropolis from the rooftop of Mori Tower, 270m above sea level. On a good day, you can even see Mount Fuji. Sky Deck, Mori Tower.

TRY ON SOME JAPANESE SNEAKERS Retro or modern? Sixty-year-old shoemaker Onitsuka Tiger lets you have both at once. Head to their Roppongi shop to try on their latest sneakers, in vibrant colours and old-meets-new designs. Onitsuka Tiger, 4F West Walk.

TREAT YOUR SWEET TOOTH East is East and West is West, and now the twain have met in the delicious desserts served at Toraya Café. The azuki and cocoa fondant – a baked sweet that blends bean paste with chocolate – is especially good. Toraya Café, 1F Keyakizaka Dori.

Toranomon tomorrows The area is revitalised as a place to live…

… and love

Nought to sixty… The loop road was six decades in the making

WHAT TO DO AT TORANOMON HILLS TOWER Live There are 172 premium residential units on floors 37-46 and homeowners and tenants will enjoy the feel of hotel living with access to the hotel’s spa and room service facilities. You’ll also be privy to the benefits of Mori Living, a unique lifestyle concept created by the Mori building, not to mention the glorious views from your bedroom window.

Work Spacious offices are spread out over 30 floors and feature three different anti-earthquake facilities complete with back-up batteries in case of emergency. Since the Tokyo Metropolitan Government designated the area as an Asia Headquarters Special District, offering preferential tax treatment and a ‘concierge’ service, foreign businesses already have a major drawcard for settling in Toranomon. With Toranomon Hills offering state-of-the-art facilities, the choice to set up business here is an easy one.

Shop, eat and drink A sunny glass atrium next to the green, grassy outdoor area houses three floors of restaurants with a culinary theme of ‘high quality casual’. After a delicious lunch, shop for that perfect cocktail dress or pair of heels at one of the many retail stores before taking a break at one of the cosy coffee shops.

Rest, relax and say ‘I do’ The crowning glory of Toranomon Hills is the Andaz Tokyo hotel, run by Hyatt Hotels Corporation and occupying the top floors of the building. Main attractions include a rooftop bar where you can sip on a glass of Chardonnay while taking in the view of Tokyo skyline, and a small, private chapel where you can enjoy a very unique wedding ceremony. What better way to embark on a new adventure with the one you love than at the top of one of Tokyo’s tallest buildings, surrounded by bright city lights?

HOW TO GET THERE With its upcoming status as an exciting commercial and leisure nerve-centre, Toranomon needs to be as accessible as possible. Luckily, it’s in the perfect position, with six train and metro stations within walking distance, giving access to 11 lines. Roppongi is just around the corner, while Ginza and Kasumigaseki are also close by. Haneda airport is only 13km away from Toranomon Hills, and if you’re feeling extravagant you can hop on a chopper from the top of the tower and fly straight to Narita airport. The Loop Road No. 2 will also dramatically improve access to the area as it pushes intra-regional traffic underground at the north-west corner of Toranomon Hills, resurfacing again in the Tsukiji area.

RELAX IN THE GREEN HEART OF ROPPONGI The creators of Roppongi Hills had the good sense to incorporate a traditional Japanese garden into the complex: a serene spot that offsets its high-tech surroundings. Mohri Garden.

Snow & Blue illuminations

ENJOY A CLASSIC VIEW The Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori offers a picturesque vantage point for gazing out at Tokyo Tower. Best enjoyed during the winter months, when its trees are decorated with fairy lights. Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori. HEAD TO THE HILLS

From Narita Airport, take the Narita Express to Shinjuku, then change for the

Toei Oedo line to Roppongi (journey time: 110 mins). From Haneda Airport, take the Keikyu Airport limited express to Shinagawa, change to the Yamanote line to Ebisu, then take the

Hibiya line to Roppongi (journey time: 60 mins).

Limousine buses and alternative train routes are also available. http://www.roppongi hills.com/ facilities/access/ airport.html 66 THINGS TO DO IN ROPPONGI HILLS

Decades in the making, Minoru Mori’s ambitious ‘city within a city’ celebrates its 10th anniversary this year – but even regulars may be surprised to discover how much they’ve managed to cram into the complex. The Time Out Tokyo guide, ‘66 things to do in Roppongi Hills’, has a selectionof the best of what’s on offer. Pick up your copy at the Roppongi Hills information counter and tourist information desks in Haneda Airport, as well as at other locations around Tokyo. http://www.timeout.jp/en/ tokyo/venue/454/Roppongi-Hills