Film

English-speakers are well catered for in Japan’s alternative cinema scene. Take some consummate direction from Alex Dudok de Wit on the best arthouse venues

Want to delve a little deeper into Japanese cinema than ‘Seven Samurai’? Start here…

‘A Page of Madness’ (‘Kurutta ippêji’) by Teinosuke Kinugasa, 1926 Eerie set design, maddeningly fast editing and a touch of German expressionism bring this hallucinatory tale of mental decline to life. The first masterpiece of Japanese cinema.

‘Profound Desires of the Gods’

The Big Meowski Shibuya’s Uplink is a cinephile’s paradise

Read anything by Donald Richie, the late critic responsible for introducing Japanese cinema to the West, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the country stopped making good films around 1975. Richie had little time for contemporary directors, opining that the advent of TV had all but killed off innovation in Japan’s film industry. While this view unfairly downplays the rise of indie filmmaking in the ’90s, from which sprang the likes of Takeshi Kitano and Takashi Miike, the stagnation of once-mighty studios today certainly suggests an industry past its prime.

A handful of venues scattered across Tokyo are doing their best to visit, for international indie films, is dispel this notion. Leading the fight is Cinema Rise – where foreign students Uplink, whose 40-seater cinema (with ID) enjoy a discount. (billed as the smallest in Japan) hosts If Shibuya is the hub of cutting-edge eclectic cultural events and arthouse Japanese cinema, the National Film screenings such as J-rock Center in Kyobashi is the gigs and workshops for industry’s old custodian. budding filmmakers. Its This is where film fans yearly Uplink Factory flock to see retrospectives Selection festival is Uplink’s from all eras (check ahead aimed at the expat looking to get stuck into Japan’s contemporary auditorium is the for subtitles). From here it’s a hop to Yurakucho Asahi Hall, cinema – a selection of films, many unavailable on DVD, are screened smallest in Japan home of the wonderful Tokyo Filmex festival (NovDec), where the with English subtitles. emphasis is on Around the corner is the Image contemporary East Asian cinema in Forum, bastion of Tokyo’s avant-garde general (all subtitled in English). screen culture, which specialises in For the adventurous, a ride on the experimental and animated films Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Kichijoji (some of Richie’s rare shorts have is a must. At almost every stop there even been shown here). Also worth a is an offbeat little cinema –Laputa in

Asagaya and Theater Pole-Pole in Higashi-Nakano are our favourites. And if you still need convincing, ride the train on to Mitaka, where the everpopular Ghibli Museum is a reminder that, as far as animation goes, Japanese cinema still leads the world. Uplink, 2F, 37-18 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya. www.uplink.co.jp. Theatre Image Forum, 2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 5766 0114. Cinema Rise: 13-17 Udagawacho, Shibuya. www.cinemarise.com. National Film Center: 3-7-6 Kyobashi, Chuo. www.momat.go.jp/english/nfc. Yurakucho Asahi Hall: 11F Yurakucho Mullion, 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda. www.filmex.net/2013.

For upcoming events and showtimes see timeout.com/tokyo ‘Profound Desires of the Gods’ (‘Kamigami no fukaki yokubo’) by Shohei Imamura, 1968 A strait-laced civil engineer heads to the Okinawan archipelago on business and falls in with a strange crowd of local shamans. A sort of Japanese ‘The Wicker Man’.

‘Minamata’ (‘Minamata: kanjasan to sono sekai’) by Noriaki Tsuchimoto, 1971 In the ’50s, toxic wastewater pumped into the Minamata sea by a chemical factory led to thousands of cases of horrific mercury poisoning. This guerrilla documentary follows the victims’ quest for compensation.

‘Shara’ by Naomi Kawase, 2003 The films of Japan’s foremost female director throb with a quiet spirituality. It’s in this movie, about a family’s reaction to the disappearance of their son, that her Buddhist worldview is most apparent. Contemporary Japanese cinema at its most subtle.

‘Mind Game’ (‘Maindo geemu’) by Masaaki Yuasa, 2004 This ambitious animated feature came out of nowhere in 2004, making a star of director Masaaki Yuasa. The plot is typical gangster anime fare, but the rough aesthetic and random fusion of animation styles are completely fresh.

Get out of town Get out of town Niseko Niseko A short flight from Tokyo lies the A short flight from Tokyo lies the snowy paradise of Niseko, where cold slopes, hot springs and a Michelin star (even out here) await. snowy paradise of Niseko, where cold slopes, hot springs and a Michelin star (even out here) await. Yuriko Yamadaexplores Yuriko Yamadaexplores

Full board Piste and off-piste: Annupuri Lodge (below), Shiki Full board Piste and off-piste: Annupuri Lodge (below), Shiki (bottom left) and Del Sole (bottom right) (bottom left) and Del Sole (bottom right)

This year is looking to be a breakout year for Niseko, the little town in Hokkaido that has T his year is looking to be a breakout year for Niseko, the little town in Hokkaido that has slowly but surely been transforming itself into the snow capital of Asia. to go around: Niseko United resort has four interconnected areas on the same mountain (Annupuri, Niseko to go around: Niseko United resort has four interconnected areas on the same mountain (Annupuri, Niseko Village, Hirafu and Hanazono) with 48km of groomed trails and slowly but surely been transforming The attraction is, of course, its Village, Hirafu and Hanazono) with abundant backcountry to conquer. itself into the snow capital of Asia. annual flakefall of 15 metres, 48km of groomed trails and The tradition on the mountain is to The attraction is, of course, its courtesy of yearly snowstorms abundant backcountry to conquer. follow your day skiing with an onsen–annual flakefall of 15 metres, drifting across from Siberia, which The tradition on the mountain is to a hot spring bath – then a meal, in courtesy of yearly snowstorms result in it being one of the whitest follow your day skiing with an onsen that order: a ‘trifecta’ ritual that’s a –drifting across from Siberia, which places on earth. But a hot spring bath – then a meal, in joy to uphold. For result in it being one of the whitest as well as crunchy that order: a ‘trifecta’ ritual that’s a stage two, try places on earth. But powder, the resort joy to uphold. For Kanronomori Onsen as well as crunchy powder, the resort offers daily lift passes that won’t The tradition on stage two, try Kanronomori Onsen near Annupuri,a series of indoor and near Annupuri,a series of indoor and outdoor hot baths and a sauna attached to a hotel that overlooks the edge of the national park. After your dip, offers daily lift passes that won’t eat into your aprèsski budget (day pass, ¥5,200); easy access thanks to regular flights from Tokyo to Sapporo; The tradition on the mountain is to ski, then spa, then eat – in that order outdoor hot baths and a sauna attached to a hotel that overlooks the edge of the national park. After your dip, ease your limbs with an Ashifumi massage or an eat into your aprèsski budget (day pass, ¥5,200); easy access thanks to regular flights from Tokyo to Sapporo; superb restaurants; abundant hot springs and a wide the mountain is to ski, then spa, then eat – in that order superb restaurants; variety of lodging options, from ease your limbs with aromatherapy session – or if you abundant hot springs and a wide backpacker hostels to luxury an Ashifumi massage or an can’t afford that, the automatic variety of lodging options, from penthouses. aromatherapy session – or if you massage chairs in the lobby are backpacker hostels to luxury You’ll find all manner of people can’t afford that, the automatic surprisingly effective. penthouses. arriving at these hallowed slopes, massage chairs in the lobby are Del Sole (0136 58 3535, You’ll find all manner of people whether by sleek private jets or in surprisingly effective. www.pizza-delsole.com), a brickarriving at these hallowed slopes, decked-out campervans. Luckily Del Sole (0136 58 3535, oven pizzeria in Annupuri Village, is whether by sleek private jets or in there’s plenty of the dry, fluffy stuff www.pizza-delsole.com), a brickrun by Kenji Sugimoto and his wife, decked-out campervans. Luckily oven pizzeria in Annupuri Village, is run by Kenji Sugimoto and his wife,there’s plenty of the dry, fluffy stuff 72 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo Hiromi. After learning the thin-crust style of pizza making in Ischia, Naples, Hiromi. After learning the thin-crust Sugimoto returned to Japan to open style of pizza making in Ischia, Naples, this little restaurant. Specialties Sugimoto returned to Japan to open include pizza romana, crispy this little restaurant. Specialties calamari and some very nice wines. include pizza romana, crispy Sugimoto’s pizza rivals Tokyo’s best, calamari and some very nice wines. so phone ahead to guarantee Sugimoto’s pizza rivals Tokyo’s best, yourself one of the 15 seats. so phone ahead to guarantee For a comfy, mid-range stay, you’ll yourself one of the 15 seats. do well at Annupuri Lodge,across For a comfy, mid-range stay, you’ll from Del Sole. Located in beautiful do well at Annupuri Lodge,across Annupuri Village, its breakfasts are from Del Sole. Located in beautiful hearty and the knowledgeable staff Annupuri Village, its breakfasts are speak English. You can use the open hearty and the knowledgeable staff kitchen to prepare other meals speak English. You can use the open Its on-site ski during the day, and its on-site ski kitchen to prepare other meals school, Niseko Winterlab, offers during the day, and its on-site ski guidance and lessons on the slopes. school, Niseko Winterlab, offers For the ultimate in splendour, guidance and lessons on the slopes. splash out at Shiki, a 68-apartment For the ultimate in splendour, hotel-style condominium in the heart splash out at Shiki, a 68-apartment of Hirafu with numerous-size suites hotel-style condominium in the heart and five premium penthouse units. , of Hirafu with numerous-size suites Acclaimed chef Yuichi Kamimura’s in addition to the deliciously upscale and five premium penthouse units. Michelin-starred French restaurant Niseko Supermarket & Deli. Acclaimed chef Yuichi Kamimura’s (0136 21 2288, www.kamimuraMichelin-starred French restaurant niseko.com) is part of the complex, (0136 21 2288, www.kamimuraserving Hokkaido wagyu beef sirloin niseko.com) is part of the complex, and grilled local fish. Reservations serving Hokkaido wagyu beef sirloin naturally, are essential. and grilled local fish. Reservations naturally, are essential. Places to stay Places to stay KANRONOMORI ONSEN Rooms from ¥10,000 per night KANRONOMORI ONSEN 415 Niseko, Niseko-cho, Rooms from ¥10,000 per night Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 415 Niseko, Niseko-cho, 0136 58 3800 Abuta-gun, Hokkaido www.kanronomori.com 0136 58 3800 www.kanronomori.com ANNUPURI LODGE AND NISEKO WINTERLAB ANNUPURI LODGE Rooms from ¥6,615 per person AND NISEKO WINTERLAB 482-2 Niseko, Aza Niseko, Rooms from ¥6,615 per person Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 482-2 Niseko, Aza Niseko, 090 1851 6663 Abuta-gun, Hokkaido www.annupurilodge.com 090 1851 6663 0136 58 3280 www.annupurilodge.com SHIKI From ¥20,000 per one-bed apartment SHIKI 190-4 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, From ¥20,000 per one-bed apartment Abuta-gun, Hokkaido. 190-4 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, 0136 21 4191 Abuta-gun, Hokkaido. www.shikiniseko.com 0136 21 4191 www.shikiniseko.com

For more travel tips and destinations, see For more travel tips timeout.com/tokyo and destinations, see timeout.com/tokyo

An antedote for winter chill is closer than you think, muses Amanda Taylor, as she enjoys a tour of the muscle-melting hot springs just an hour away by bullet train from the big smoke

Perhaps you’ve never heard about Japan’s Izu Peninsula. As an international destination, it’s somewhat hidden in the shadow of Tokyo’s bright neon lights. That’s a shame, as Izu is the tranquil yin to Tokyo’s frantic yang. Here you’ll find cosy retreats from the cold, and breathtaking views of sparkling oceans and snow-capped Mount Fuji.

The peninsula is only an hour west of Japan’s capital by bullet train, but it’s best to stay the night –although you’ll likely find yourself stretching that out to two or three, because after you slip into the steaming caress of Izu’s famous onsenall you’ll want to do is blissfully doze off. In fact, Atami is widely known in Japan as one of the top onsenspots.

Besides, you simply have to stay for dinner. Traditional Japanese ryokan (inns) are all over Izu, and they pride themselves on serving delectable and gorgeously presented meals, which in Izu means some of the freshest, mostflavourful sashimi in the country, direct from the sea. You can also sample seasonal grilled or steamed fish dishes, lobster, crab and a whole array of seafood.

Atami is under an hour away from Tokyo station by bullet train, or take

the Super View Odoriko train from Shinjuku (with specially designed windows offering a perfect vista) for a longer, but more picturesque ride.

Book into one of Atami’s ryokan, which are usually complete with a private outdoor bath, and you can take in the view of the ocean and mountains at sunset. They can be pricey but they (and you) are worth it. Nothing compares to soaking outside, the hot water melting your muscles while you breathe in the refreshing chill of the winter air.

Furuya Ryokan (approx ¥50,000- ¥80,000 for two people) wows guests with large, clean rooms that are beautifully Japanese in design. Suites are closed off by sliding paper-screen doors, the tatami flooring giving off a woody scent and the beds all traditional futons. The hot springs of its onsen flow straight

from the source, undiluted, leaving your skin tingling with all the naturally occurring minerals.

For a cheaper option, try K’s House Ito Onsen (from ¥3,900 per person). This ryokan-style hostel is in Ito, about half an hour away from Atami by train. It has the beautiful ryokan aesthetic plus an indoor onsen, but costs less than half the price. Take a cable car up Mount Omuro for a spectacular view of Ito and Fuji.

Shuzenji, in central Izu, is about two hours away from Tokyo station

Spring cleaningLet the onsen experience cleanse body and soul

by bullet train, and is named after the temple it surrounds. Here you can take a footbath in Izu’s oldest onsen, or stroll among willowy bamboo trees.

Hot springs in winter are a quintessential part of the Japanese experience, and Izu is just the place to experience their rejuvenating power, before heading back to the city whirl. Furuya Ryokan: 5-24 Higashi Kaigan, Atami, Shizuoka. 0557 81 0001. www.atami-furuya.co.jp. K’s House Ito Onsen: 12-13 Higashimatsubara, Ito, Shizuoka. 0557 35 9444. www.kshouse.jp/ito-e.

For more ideas for short breaks, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Got a light? Shared rooms here come with ensuite shower

Budget Five affordable places to lay your city-weary head

Toco Tokyo Heritage Hostel Run by a bunch of East Tokyo hipsters, this converted 1920s townhouse offers the sense of staying in a traditional Japanese home at hostel prices. The cosy, smoke-free drinking den is one of the hostel’s biggest draws, and should make the guesthouse’s cramped bunkbed dormitories (from ¥2,600 per person) and private rooms (from ¥6,000 per room) feel more bearable. Be warned: lights get switched off at midnight each night. 2-13-21 Shitaya, Taito. 03 6458 1686.www.backpackersjapan.co. jp/english.

Andon Ryokan A high-end hostel, Andon was designed by veteran architect Masayuki Irie: the interior incorporates traditional Japanese features. Extra perks include a rootop terrace and a shared Jacuzzi. On the down side, the rooms are tiny and it’s located in one of the least exciting corners of eastern Tokyo. Prices start at ¥6,300 for a single, and rooms come with WiFi, a TV and DVD player. 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi, Taito. 03 3873 8611. www.andon.co.jp.

Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki As well as its enviable location – just around the corner from Kaminarimon gate in central Asakusa – it’s the attention to detail that sets Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki apart. The dorms have their own ensuite shower and toilet, there’s free WiFi in every room and it even gives you the option to sleep in a tatami-floored room. Dorms cost ¥3,000 per person, twins and doubles ¥3,400. 1-17-2 Asakusa, Taito. 03 5830 3673. www.khaosan-tokyo.com/en/kabuki.

Sakura Hostel Asakusa At Tokyo’s largest backpacker spot, fluent English speakers dispense tourist information 24 hours a day at reception, while the common kitchen area and 24-hour bar and café bring a sense of community to what’s otherwise a slightly impersonal

Zen gardens Toco’s peaceful surrounds

(although scrupulously clean) facility, with a choice of dorms (¥2,940), twins (¥8,295) and group rooms that sleep up to eight people. The hostel sits ten minutes’ walk from the subway station. 2-24-2 Asakusa, Taito. 03 3847 8111. www.sakura-hotel.co.jp/asakusa.

Kangaroo Hotel Rock-bottom prices (starting at ¥3,300 for a single room) attract a mixed bag of guests, including Japanese tourists, backpackers, businessmen and families. The interior is a blend of old and new –the lobby’s exposed concrete walls and white furniture give it the feel of a trendy showroom, but they also have some Japanese-style rooms, complete with tatami mats and futons. All rooms have TVs, fridges and free LAN internet, although bathrooms and showers are shared. Find it sandwiched between other budget hotels in the Sanya neighbourhood, ten minutes’ walk from Minami-Senju station. 1-21-11 Nihonzutsumi, Taito. 03 3872 8573. www.kangaroohotel.jp.

Luxury Five chic spots to glam it up Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo Hidden away in the ancient gardens of northern Tokyo, Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo (formerly known as Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so) caters for moneyed locals on weekend escapes and celebrities seeking a little discretion, starting from ¥49,665 per room. Its opulent and luscious grounds contain historic statues from sites that include Nara and Kamakura, and is home to an impressive firefly population after dark. It has its own gym, spa and onsen(hot springs), and no less than 12 excellent restaurants with immaculate Japanese/European decor. 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo. 03 3943 1111. www.hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com.

The Tokyo Station Hotel One of the few survivors of Japan’s frantic rush to modernisation in the late 19th century, the red-brick façade of Tokyo station now looks pristine after its five-year renovation. The in-house hotel had to close its doors for the duration, but has now reopened and is doing everything it can to reassert itself in a crowded market. Its premier restaurant, Blanc Rouge, offers Japanese-styled French fare, paired with vintage wines

Everything but the bill You can’t leap your way out of the Ritz’s windows

from a 1,000-bottle cellar. Regulars will be pleased to hear that bartender Hisashi Sugimoto – who’s been with the hotel since 1958 – is back, serving his signature Tokyo Station cocktail. Rooms start from ¥27,900. 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5220 1111. www.thetokyostationhotel.jp.

Park Hyatt Tokyo Despite being Tokyo’s most decorated hotel, the Park Hyatt is perhaps now best known for its starring role in Sofia Coppola’s 2003 hit, ‘Lost in Translation’. The reception is on the glass-walled 41st floor, with stunning views over the whole of the city. Service is attentive but not fussy, and the rooms are among the largest in any Tokyo hotel. It also boasts a spa and sky-lit swimming pool. Rooms start from ¥49,000. 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5322 1234. www.tokyo.park. hyatt.com. Splashing out? The Ritz Carlton A night in The RitzCerulean Tower Tokyo Carlton Suite, is just Tokyu Hotel From its lofty position ¥2.1m. Go on, Shibuya’s lone top-end in Midtown Tower, the you deserve it. establishment, the tallest building www.ritzcarlton. Cerulean Tower has (because the Skytree com rooms on floors 19-37 of is technically a tower) in the area’s tallest building, Tokyo, Ritz Carlton’s rooms offering grandstand views, are all more than 200 metres above starting from ¥32,000. In addition to ground, lifting its guests serenely out the usual impeccable restaurants of the city’s busiest area. Along with and bars, it also has a jazz club and breathtaking panoramas of Tokyo its own noh theatre (see our guide to Tower and Mount Fuji, each of the this traditional form of performance, 248 suites offers a minimum floor p65). The executive floors, 35-37, space of 52sq m, for prices from throw in gym access, daily papers, ¥43,000 per night. The spa is the web television and refreshments first in Tokyo to use ESPA products. with the accommodation. Tokyo Midtown 9-7-1, Akasaka, 26-1 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya. Minato. 03 3423 8000. 03 3476 3000. www.ceruleantowerwww.ritz-carlton.jp. hotel.com/en.