Issue 1: This Is Tokyo, The Greatest City On Earth by Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo COVER 23/10/2013 14:31 Page 15

INSIDE!

Your Tokyo to-do list The best art, shows and festivals this winter The Olympics are coming

Ultimate city dining The newest restaurants, the tastiest dishes Ski breaks Japanese-style Slope off for the weekend

No.1 SPECIAL LAUNCH ISSUE!

NOV 2013 – JAN 2014 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

THIS IS TOKYO,

Best gay bar in existence

THE GREATEST CITY

ON EARTH The shop that sells everything

Sushi the way it’s meant to be

Precision public transport Home of the love hotel

FREE

Tokyo P5 Contents 23/10/2013 13:06 Page 5

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

November 2013 – January 2014

Hello Tokyo… Welcome to the first ever Time Out Tokyo magazine. You’ll have noticed we’re kicking things off with a modest little claim: that this city outshines any other metropolis on the planet – and it’s not only because of the nonstop fireworks (although we do like fireworks). Turn to p24 and we’ll give you 49 other incontestable reasons. And in the rest of the magazine you’ll find hundreds more: from proof that the world will see the greatest Games ever in 2020 (p10) to our tips on such quintessential Tokyo experiences as Golden-gai (p68) –and from the capital’s music, style and art to the savviest city cats you’ll ever meet (p82). Tokyo is beyond compare. Use this mag to make the most of it.

On top of the world… With the bid in the bag, this is Tokyo’s moment… Discoverwhy you’re in the best city on earth, p24

Inside 06 Tokyo Update City news, city views 13 Tokyo Diary Essential events 21 Courtesy calls Tokyo for beginners 23 Road to recovery One town’s posttsunami comeback 24 Tokyo: best city in the world Need a reason? We’ll give you 50! Cover Photography by Taishi Hirokawa

Editors Jun Igarashi Hidetaka Furuya

Editorial Assistants Eri Ito Masako Matsuzaki Misaki Kawaguchi Ryo Harada Ryo Koshirakawa Yasuhisa Shimbo Yuka Yamazaki Yu Miyakoshi Annemarie Luck

The best nightlife Lose yourself in lasers with a round-up of the best clubs in town, p70

The best insider tips Discover a Tokyo you didn’t know existed. Our guide to Golden-gai, p68

The best in Japanese music From Perfume to Aragehonji: find out who is rocking our world, p66

The best new restaurants Which new food places to try in 2014? We’ll tell you! p48

JOIN THE CONVERSATION ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND THE TOKYOITE BLOG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo Ili Saarinen Rebecca Morice Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Kenta Hoshino Kisa Toyoshima Takuroh Toyama Sales Assistants Daiki Masuda Ikuko Hirahara

Chief Content Producer Atsushi Tonosaki Content Director Commercial & Marketing Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani Chairman Hiroshi Hasegawa

@TimeOutTokyoblogs.timeout.jp/en

Time Out Digital Universal House, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, +44 (0)20 7813 3000

Editor Becky Lucas Sub Editor Tayna Jackson Writer Flo Wales Bonner Contributing Editor James Hadfield Designers Patrick McNamee, Tom Havell Picture Researcher Isidora O’Neill

International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Production Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Dave Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies

International Managing Director David Woodley Chief Technical Officer David Cook Group Marketing Director Carolyn Sims CEO Tim Arthur Chairman-Founder Tony Elliott

OLYMPICS: GETTY IMAGES

Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 www.timeout.jp Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

40 They shoot Tokyo One amazing city, 100 photographers 44 Eating & Drinking 52 Shopping & Style 60 LGBT 62 Art& Culture 66 Music 68 Nightlife 71 Film 72 Travel & Hotels 76 Getting Around 82 Cats

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5

Tokyo update

C I T Y FA Q

How did that tower get such a petite waistline?

he latest addition to the Tokyo skyline – the Keyaki building, in Otomesando – has been raising many an eyebrow for its unusual shape. There’s no other way of describing it: the eight-storey skyscraper, designed by architect Norihiko Dan, looks like it’s wearing a giant pair of Spanx. With its nipped-in waist, it’s perhaps appropriate that it’ll soon be home to fashion brand Hugo Boss and a range of other high-end outlets, including Dior, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. But breathe easy – this isn’t a colossal homage to ladies’ undergarments. The architect says his concrete creation, scheduled to open at the end of November, is supposed to look like it’s been ‘hugged’ by its neighbour. Lucky it wasn’t erected next to a love hotel…

Tight squeeze Godzilla’s been playing with the buildings again…

Ice cream crisps At last, food brand Calbee has spliced le crisp and le glace. We always knew it’d work! Flavour suggestion: freeze and onion. Fangs The latest in body jewellery is customised silver teeth and ‘fangs’, courtesy of dentist and Fangophilia-line founder, Taro Hanabusa. Smile! Hold the Line More people use the 2011 Line app to IM each other in Japan than Facebook. Best thing about it? You can send stickers as well as emoticons. Gr8.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

Kanto-chiho fried chicken? KFC – not the most traditional of Japanese eating establishments, we’re sure you’ll agree. But in a bid to attract hungry locals to its new Torikaratei restaurant in Meguro Niwatorikaratei restaurant in Meguro the US fast food chain is trying its hand at a Japanese classic style – karaage. The KFC version – fondly known as ‘JFC’ – involves marinating chicken in soy sauce prior to cooking. It’s been on KFC menus since October, and will soon be on offer in six more spots across the city. Will the Colonel rise to the culinary challenge, or is he out of his clucking mind? Stick it on your bucket list and find out.

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

KEYAKI BUILDING: KOZO TAKAYAMA, KFC: JEREMY SUTTON-HIBBERT / ALAMY

TOKYO LOVES…

TOKYO FINAL P6-9 UP FRONT 23/10/2013 10:37 Page 7

Jog on

Bottom lines

TOKYO TALK

How Tokyo’s subway measures up to other cities’ on volume vs value

Residents reveal what they love most about their capital

KEY

NYC SUBWAY

CHICAGO EL

LOS ANGELES

LONDON TUBE

TOKYO SUBWAY

PARIS METRO

MEXICO CITY METRO

DAILY PASSENGER NUMBERS Fighting fit Don’t get in their way…

1.65bn

Forget the cars, an even larger menace is terrorising Tokyo’s pedestrians these days –and it’s, er, angry joggers. A series of recent complaints from visitors to Imperial Park suggests that furious fitness fanatics have been wreaking havoc on unwitting walkers –mowing them down from behind, refusing to apologise and, according to a local authority spokesman, ‘jeering and yelling’. But how to put an end to this exercise-based evil? A series of handy signs has been plastered around the park, reminding runners to ‘yield to pedestrians’, ‘run anticlockwise’ and ‘be polite’. Tokyoites –you may be safe. (But if not, you could always stick a foot out…)

Grog for mog

Beer for dogs? Old news. Japanese company B&H Lifes has decided it’s not fair for Rover to have all the fun – and has launched a new wine for cats (there’s no alcohol, just a nip of catnip).Nyan Nyan Nouveau (‘nyan’ is ‘meow’ in Japanese; ¥399 a pop) was born after cat lovers expressed a wish to share occasions like ‘Christmas and birthdays’ with their furry friends.Surely gin for gerbils is just around the corner...

231m 113m 1.2bn 3.1bn 1.5bn 1.61bn AVERAGE PRICE OF A SINGLE JOURNEY ¥715

¥245

¥220

¥225 ¥150

¥160

¥25

Trivzilla! Fascinating Tokyo facts for your inner city geek

GODZILLA: JUDITH COLLINS / ALAMY

Tokyo has been destroyed 28 times… … in Godzilla movies. And the angry giant whatever-he-is seems to have it in for certain parts of the city. Our advice: if you detect a huge green lizard rising from the sea and heading for town, stay away from Nagatacho and Shinagawa.

Mount Fuji is often under the weather It may be one of the most

Masa, 43, cobbler, Aoyama How long have you lived here? Three years. Best Tokyo memory so far? When my partner and I opened our shoe-repair store, Cobbler Next Door. We’ve recently become an official shoe repairer for shoe store George Cox. Strangest thing you have seen here? I’ve seen a long, grey-haired old chap who was all in pink, from head to toe. Even his Crocs sandals were pink. He looked stylish, but kind of crazy. Advice for visitors… Check your soles before you get on a plane. If they’re old, they could come off due to atmospheric pressure. Tourists often come in to get their soles fixed. Cobbler Next Door, Upstairs, 3 MinamiAoyama, Minato. 03 3402 1977. www.london-cobbler.com.

recognisable natural landmarks on earth, but Mount Fuji is a bit on the shy side. Tokyoites only get to see it for an average of 100 days a year, due to poor visibility. Now we know it’s here somewhere…

Tokyo may not be the capital after all Over the centuries Japan has had many capital cities, but oddly enough there has never been a law formally recognising Tokyo’s premier status. A few hardliners still insist that Kyoto is the real capital (as do a few anagram fans).

Mariko Mizukami, 30, co-ordinator, Shibuya How long have you lived here? About ten years, although I lived in NYC in 2005 and 2006. Best Tokyo memory so far? Seeing Vincent Gallo (US actor) at the Shibuya crossing after midnight, the day after Fuji Rock Festival. It was raining really hard and no one was around. He was covering his head with his leather jacket. I had an umbrella. Advice for visitors… Remember there are hardly any places with Wi-Fi access here. And there’s a new café in Akihabara where all the staff dress like maids. It’s called Akihabara Drug & Café. www.akibadrug.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

CAPITAL RECORDS

Local legends #1

World titles (non-Olympic) currently held by Tokyo

1 The 50-year-old schoolgirl

Lengthiest slice of ham The longest single slice of meat – a sliver of Iberico ham measuring 13.35m – was carved in Tokyo by Nico Jimnes Rodrigez of Hattori Nutrition College on September 23 2010. Apparently it kept Lady Gaga in scarves for a month.

hen faced with the sight of a heavily-moustached grandad in a schoolgirl’s outfit shuffling past their shop, most people would be tempted to reach for the ‘gone to lunch’ sign – but not the residents of Ikebukuro and Shinjuku. Hideaki Kobayashi – aka ‘Grow Hair’ – is 51 years old, a part-time photographer, full-time software engineer and big-time

school-uniform-wearing street celebrity. He first plaited his beard and pulled on a skirt after a friend told him about a local ramen shop that was offering a free meal to anyone over 30 who came in dressed as a schoolgirl. ‘That was how I justified it,’ he recently told Vice Japan. ‘The first time I did it, I realised no one cared how I was dressed.

After that, I didn’t think twice.’ That was back in June 2011 – and the rest is history. And now he’s become part of the Shinjuku scenery. ‘No one causes a stir or calls the cops,’ he says. ‘City people are really good at ignoring you.’ Gee. What’s a girl gotta do to get some attention around here? www.vice.com/jp/vice-meets/ my-schoolgirl-fantasy

Most gargantuan spider crab In 2011 a group of Tokyo fishermen caught a 2.4m-long, 15kg spider crab. The Herculean crustacean became a minor celebrity in Europe after it was sent to an English aquarium – where it earned the nickname ‘Crab Kong’. Snappy.

8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

50 YEAR OLD SCHOOLGIRL: ALAMY; IBERICO HAM: DAMON COULTER / DEMOTIX; TOAST WORLD RECORD: GETTY IMAGES

Most epic kanpai! The world’s largest toast (boozy, not bread-based) took place in Tokyo’s Jingu Stadium on June 26 2010. A whopping 27,126 held up their glasses and shouted ‘Kanpai!’. But how did they congratulate themselves on their record? ‘Kanpai!’ etc.

TOKYO FINAL P6-9 UP FRONT 23/10/2013 10:38 Page 9

TOSHIMA BUNKYO

SHINJUKU

TAITO

TOKYO TALK Residents reveal what they love most about their capital

CHIYODA CHUO 14

SHIBUYA

4 5

8 13

3 6

9 10

12 4

MINATO 11

MEGURO

Michelin star gazing

Tokyo has the densest cluster of triple Michelin-starred restaurants in the known universe. Behold, the constellation of the pufferfish…

1 Ishikawa (Japanese) Stellar chef: Hideki Ishikawa Expect to pay (per head): ¥31,500

2 Sushi Yoshitake (Sushi ) Stellar chef: Masahiro Yoshitake Expect to pay: ¥23,100

3 Koju (Japanese) Stellar chef: Tooru Okuda Expect to pay: ¥15,750

4Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten (Sushi) Stellar chef: Jiro Ono Expect to pay: ¥30,000 (no credit cards)

5 7chome Kyoboshi (Tempura) Stellar chef: Shigeya Sakakibara Expect to pay: ¥31,500

6 Sushi Mizutani (Sushi) Stellar chef: Hachiro Mizutani Expect to pay: ¥30,000

7 Sushi Saito (Sushi) Stellar chef: Takashi Saito Expect to pay: ¥15,750

8 Ryugin (Molecular) Stellar chef: Seiji Yamamoto Expect to pay: ¥23,100

9 Kanda (Japanese) Stellar chef: Hiroyuki Kanda Expect to pay: ¥15,750

a Yukimura (Japanese) Stellar chef: Azabu Yukimura Expect to pay: ¥30,000

b Quintessence (French) Stellar chef: Shuzo Kishida Expect to pay: ¥16,800

c Joël Robuchon (French) Stellar chef: Joël Robuchon Expect to pay: ¥22,500

d Usukifugu Yamadaya (Fugu) Stellar chef: Yoshio Kusakabe Expect to pay: ¥21,000

e Esaki (Japanese) Stellar chef: Shintaro Esaki Expect to pay: ¥8,400

Ritually yours Forget internet dating –rely on these city superstitions for love success…

LOVE SCULPTURE: ALAMY

Love letters work like a charm Brightening up the pavement in front of Shinjuku’s I-Land Tower, the ‘Love’ sculpture – based on the iconic pop art image by US artist Robert Indiana – is said to hold special powers for singles. Legend has it thatif you can squeeze between the letters V and E without touching them you’ll be struck by Cupid’s arrow before you can say ‘available’.

Don’t rock the boat Warning all loved-up couples! Don’t be tempted by a romantic boat

ride on the Inokashira Park pond. Its guardian is said to be Benzaiten, worshipped in both Buddhism and Shinto, who gets jealous at the sight of happy twosomes. Unless you want your relationship smote before its time, go for an ice-cream instead.

Keep romance out of the workplace On Valentine’s Day in Japan, it’s traditional for women to give their lovers gifts of honmei-choco (true love chocolate) and their male bosses giri-choco (obligation chocolate).

Naoki Kotaka, 28, creative consultant and PR, Harajuku How long have you lived here? Nearly two years. Favourite thing to do at the weekend? I mostly work, but in summer, I often go to Kamakura or Zushi in Kanagawa. Best Tokyo memory so far? When I met Ryan McGinley (US photographer) at Vacant. He drank four cups of iced latte there, saying it was the only good coffee in Tokyo. Strangest thing you’ve seen here? There are many well-dressed people sleeping on the streets, especially in Shinjuku and Nakano. I guess Tokyo is pretty safe. Advice for visitors… Just walk. Don’t take trains if you want to experience the real Tokyo.

Audrey Fondecave, artist, Nakameguro How long have you lived here? Ten years. I also spent a year in Osaka. What do you love about Tokyo? I like that it’s so big –I always discover new things, but sometimes I get lost in it. When I go back to Europe (I’m originally from France) cities feel small. Favourite thing to do at the weekend? I tend to DJ at clubs or hang out with friends on a Friday, then spend the rest of the weekend with my family. We sometimes get out of the city, maybe to visit Kamakura or climb Takao-san. Advice for visitors… Don’t be afraid of getting lost. Tokyo is pretty safe and people around you always try to help. And getting lost is a good way to discover the city.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo, visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

Tokyo READY P10-11 Olympics_Layout 1 copy 22/10/2013 12:09 Page 10

On your marks... We’re over the first hurdle… but there are a good few laps to go yet –not to mention a whole Olympic Games in Rio. Here’s a glimpse through the afterglow of what’s in store for Tokyo between now and 2020

70% 38°C

The percentage of Tokyo residents who backed the bid

The number of Japanese people smiling when Tokyo won the bid* *According to Tsunekazu Takeda, the president of the Japanese Olympic Committee and Tokyo 2020 Campaign

The highest temperature in Tokyo last summer. If this temperature is reached during the men’s marathon in 2020, it will make it the hottest in at least 120 years

The number of votes Tokyo won the 2020 Olympic bid by, smashing its closest competitor, Istanbul, 60 to 36

... after Xinhua News Agency in China mistakenly reported that Istanbul had won the bid

The number of years since the games were last held in Tokyo

¥300 BILLION YEN

290,000M2

The cost of the new Tokyo Olympic Stadium, designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, to be complete for the 2019 Rugby World Cup

The size the stadium will be

The number of Olympic venues in total

¥3 trillion

The amount the government estimates the games may generate via other spending, including:

… ¥152 billion on marketing activities and the like…

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P10-11 Olympics_Layout 1 copy 22/10/2013 13:21 Page 11

How Tokyo won the bid The 2020 Olympics story so far

150,000

● Jacques Rogge, president of the International Olympics Committee (IOC), endorsed Japan’s slogan as a ‘safe pair of hands’, also saying, ‘I’m quite sure Tokyo 2020 will put the athletes at the centre of the Games.’

*Including operations and capital expenditure

● Tokyo’s multifaceted pitch began with the official line: a speech by Princess Takamado, the first member of the Japanese Royal Family to make a personal address to the IOC. ● Next up came the emotional appeal, from Paralympian Mami Sato who explained that sport had saved her from the depths of ‘despair’ after she had lost her right leg to cancer. She also described how ‘Olympic values’ had helped her home town recover after it was struck by the 2011 tsunami.

The number of beds the Olympic Village will house

100 The number of well-known people in Tokyo, including architects, campaigning for the stadium’s size to be reduced to make it ‘more sustainable’

… ¥228 billion on extra household consumption…

The number of Japanese athletes who have ever failed a drug test at an Olympics or Paralympics

● The bid wobbled slightly when the F-word was mentioned: that small issue of the ongoing media stories around Fukushima’s nuclear power plant. But Japan’s prime minister, Shinzo Abe, swiftly came to the defence, saying, ‘It has never done and never will do any damage to Tokyo.’ ● Backed up by a modest budget (a piffling US$8 billion), an internationally idolised public transport system; existing buildings ready and waiting to be used; a healthy economy and with the world’s most innovative architect, Dame Zaha Hadid, on board to design the Olympic stadium, Tokyo was looking pretty good.

… and ¥176 billion by athletes and spectators ALAMY

The number of Olympic venues to be built from scratch

Total planned spending on the games*

17,000

The number of temporary jobs predicted to be created by the games

¥720 BILLION

Screaming hysterically, the Japanese nation took ‘maniacal’ to a new level in September this year at the news of Tokyo’s successful bid to host the 2020 Olympic Games. Here’s how it happened…

● But the crowning glory was Japan’s squeaky-clean drug record, as Abe pointed out: not one single Japanese athlete has ever failed a doping test. Which is perhaps the best demonstration of how seriously this country takes its sport. As the Japanese proverb ‘jigou jitoku’ testifies, you reap what you sow.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 11

Tokyo READY P13-15 CALENDAR 22/10/2013 14:50 Page 13

Tokyo Diary

Tokyo Diary Special brew Possibly the world’s most organised beer festival

What’s on in town November 2013 –January 2014 Want to make the most of the city? Here are our editor’s picks of the best things to do over the next three months

RACCO/YOSHITOMO-OBUCHI

ith sweaty summer gone for another year, it’s time to step out into the cool air and take the city by storm. Whether you want to sink a Bavarian brew at an off-seasonOktoberfest (above), gorge yourself silly on ramen, chuck beans for good luck or dance your way across a giant bowl of noodles to a techno soundtrack, here’s our guide to a very cool Tokyo winter…

November Art & Culture Roppongi Crossing 2013: Out of Doubt Roppongi Crossing – Mori Art Museum’s triennial review of the Japanese contemporary art world – is back. This year’s event focuses on artists born in the ’70s and ’80s, including expats.

Until Jan 13 Mori Art Museum, 53F Mori Tower, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 6406 6100. www.mori.art.museum/html/eng. ¥1,500. Art & Culture Tokujin Yoshioka: Crystallize Tokujin Yoshioka is a true dabbler – the artist is known for experimenting in the worlds of art, furniture,

architecture and product packaging. This large-scale exhibition brings together brand new pieces and more well-known works such as ‘Rainbow Church’ as well as numerous pieces from the award-winning ‘Crystallized Project’. Until Jan 19 Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum.jp. ¥500.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 13

Tokyo Diary from established artists and talented newcomers. Catch works by Japanese directors, as well as screenings of ad campaigns for luxe brands from around the world. Nov 29-Dec 1 Idol B1F, 5-11-9 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. www. ashadedviewon fashionfilm.com.

Enlightening Celebrations at a Tori no Ichi festival

Tokyo Diary

Music Red Bull Music Academy Weekender This four-day event celebrates 15 years of the Red Bull Music Academy – through the medium of party. Taking place across a range of Tokyo venues, this series of bashes promises performances from the likes of Gilles Peterson, FaltyDL, Toshio Matsuura, and Damo Suzuki. Nov 1-4 Various locations, including WWW in Shibuya, SuperDeluxe in Nishi Azabu, Ba-Tsu Art Gallery & Gallery Common in Omotesando, Liquidroom/Time Out Café in Ebisu, Sound Museum Vision in Shibuya. www.redbullmusicacademy.jp.

TOKYO MARATHON: TOKYO MARATHON FOUNDATION

Art & Culture Tori no Ichi Join some 600,000 fellow revellers to mark the onset of the frosty season at this lively fair that takes place in shrines across the city. Nov 2, 3, 14, 15, 26 and 27 Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku, Otori Shrine in Meguro, Ohtori Shrine in Asakusa, and various other shrines around Tokyo. www.hanazono-jinja.or.jp, www.ootorijinja.or.jp and www.otorisima.or.jp. Free. Eating & Drinking Tokyo Ramen Show 2013 Some of the nation’s most legendary noodle shops come together. Expect to taste some mindblowing one-off ramen collaborations. Chopsticks at the ready… Nov 15 to 24 Komazawa Olympic Park General Sports Ground, 1-1 Komazawa-Koen, Setagaya. www.ramenshow.com (Japanese). Free entry; ramen tickets ¥800.

Film Screen Beauties Vol.2: Catherine Deneuve The Screen Beauties series celebrates former silver-screen stars through digitally remastered film. This edition celebrates Ms Deneuve through three of her best-loved movies: ‘Mississippi Mermaid’, ‘Manon 70’ and ‘The Umbrellas of Cherbourg’. Nov 16-Dec 6 Shinjuku Piccadilly, 3-15-15 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. www.screenbeauties.com. Shinjuku station. Prices and times vary. Film Tokyo Filmex 14th edition This year’s Filmex introduces movies by rising directors from across Asia and the Middle East, with special screenings and talks. Nov 23-Dec 1 Yurakucho Asahi Hall, 11F Yurakucho Mullion, 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda. 03 3560 6393. www.filmex.net/ 2013. Prices vary.

Music Electraglide 2013 James Blake, Sherwood & Pinch, Factory Floor, 2manyDJs and Machinedrum are among the names who’ll be shaking the crowds at this year’s Electraglide all-nighter. Nov 29 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba-shi, Chiba. www.electraglide.info. ¥9,800 on the door; ¥8,800 adv. Music The Piano Era 2013 Some of the world’s most renowned pianists – think Akiko Yano, Masakatsu Takagi, André Mehmari, Nora Sarmoria and Nils Frahm – get together for an homage to the keys. Nov 30-Dec 1 Meguro Persimmon Hall, 1-1-1 Yakumo, Meguro. 03 6310 9553.www.tinyurl.com/ TOTnovus. One-day ticket: ¥7,500 on the day; ¥6,500 adv. Two-day ticket: ¥12,000.

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

world-class craftmanship, with more than 170 cultural and industrial artefacts available for your perusal. Dec 7-May 6 National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation, 2-3-6 Aomi (Odaiba), Koto. 03 3570 9188. www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/en. ¥1,000.

December

Food & Drink Techno Udon Techno Udon returns for another noodle-stomping round. Participants get to knead noodles with their feet to the rhythm of early morning techno. If it’s anything like last time, expect batches of noodles to be served up in the afternoon (with additional flavouring…). Dec 7 Eats and Meets Cay, B1F Spiral Bldg, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3498 5790. ¥2,000 adv, ¥2,300 on the door.

Art & Culture The Sekaiichi Exhibition This carefully curated exhibition throws the spotlight on Japan’s

Music Elvis Costello and The Imposters Elvis Costello and The Imposters christen the stage at the brand

Nightlife Super Oktoberfest in Tokyo Dome 2013 Japan has more than its fair share of Oktoberfests (and not in October), but it’s worth saving yourself for the big one – this year celebrating its 11th anniversary – that transforms Tokyo Dome into a gigantic beer hall. Nov 28-Dec 1 Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. www.superoktoberfest.jp. 03 5733 1028. Film ASVOFF Tokyo 2013 Short touring film festival with a fashion and beauty theme. Curated by journalist Diane Pernet – whose fashion blog is one of the most viewed in the world – it showcases feature films, docs and installations

Shady business Festival goers at Womb Adventure 13

Run for the hills And find a good spot to watch the others sweat it out

newnew EX Theater EX Theater Roppongi Roppongi (opening (opening November November 30)30) for three for three super super swinging swinging nights. nights. DecDec 11-13 11-13 EX Theater EX Theater Roppongi, Roppongi, 1 1 Nishiazabu, Nishiazabu, Minato. Minato. 03 3444 03 3444 6751. 6751. www.ex-theater.com. www.ex-theater.com. ¥8,000. ¥8,000.

Party Partylike like it’s it’s2014! 2014! New New Year’s Year’s EveEve is Tokyo’s is Tokyo’s most most hyped hyped celebration celebration of the of the year. year. While While most most NYENYE gigsgigs andand clubclub nights nights were were notnot confirmed confirmed at time at time of of going going to press, to press, here here areare three three typically typically mammoth mammoth ways ways to mark to mark thethe moment… moment…

IMAGES: ©TOKYO MARATHON FOUNDATION

Tough Tough crowd crowd ArtArt & Culture & Culture Gishi-sai Gishi-sai crowd FightTough Fight the masses the masses Every Every year, year, Tokyoites Tokyoites gather gather at at Fight theHills masses at Roppongi at Roppongi Hills thethe graves graves of 47 of Ronin 47 Ronin (masterless (masterless Christmas at Setagaya Boroichi Christmas Market Market samurai). samurai). Gishi-sai Gishi-sai is held is held in honour in honour of the of the feudal feudal lordlord of Ako of Ako Asano Asano Shopping Shopping & Style & Style Takuminokami, Takuminokami, whowho waswas unjustly unjustly Christmas Christmas Markets Markets killed killed andand later later avenged avenged by said by said Need to stock to stock up for up the for the festive festive 47 Ronin. 47 Ronin. For For a Hollywood a Hollywood version version Need season? Head Head to the to the Roppongi Roppongi Hills Hills of the of the legend, legend, catch catch thethe forthcoming forthcoming season? from Nov 30 Christmas Christmas Market Market (pictured, (pictured, above) above) Keanu Keanu Reeves Reeves filmfilm entitled, entitled, andand Tokyo Tokyo Midtown Midtown Marche Marche de Noel de Noel accurately accurately enough, enough, ‘47‘47 Ronin’. Ronin’. from Novothers) 14 for gifts, (among others) for gifts, seasonal seasonal DecDec 14 Gishi-sai. 14 Gishi-sai. Sengakuji Sengakuji Temple, Temple, (among nibbles andand a hefty a hefty dose dose of fun of fun Minato. Minato. www.sengakuji.or.jp. www.sengakuji.or.jp. Free. Free. nibbles festive festive cheer. cheer. Shopping Shopping & Style & Style Setagaya Setagaya Until Until DecDec 25 25 Boroichi Boroichi Music Taiko Taiko Around Around 700700 stalls stalls lineline thethe streets streets Music Dance Dance to the to the beat beat of Kodo’s of Kodo’s drums drums for afor flea a flea market market withwith serious serious when when thethe group, group, oneone of Japan’s of Japan’s staying staying power. power. It’sIt’s been been going going for for biggest biggest taiko taiko ensembles, ensembles, culminate culminate more more than than 400400 years, years, andand stillstill their their countrywide countrywide tourtour in Tokyo. in Tokyo. draws draws hordes hordes andand hordes hordes of of DecDec 20-23 20-23 Tokyo Tokyo Bunkyo Bunkyo Civic Civic determined determined bargain bargain hunters. hunters. HallHall Dai-Hall. Dai-Hall. 0570 0570 00 3117. 00 3117. DecDec 15 & 1516; & 16; JanJan 15 & 1516 & 16 www.kodo.or.jp/oet. www.kodo.or.jp/oet. Tickets Tickets from from Near Near Setagaya Setagaya station. station. www.tinyurl.com/TOTseta. www.tinyurl.com/TOTseta. Free. Free. ¥5,000 ¥5,000 adults, adults, ¥3,000 ¥3,000 conc. conc.

January January ArtArt & Culture & Culture Senso-ji Senso-ji New New Year’s Year’s large large prayer prayer meeting meeting Give Give 2014 2014 a warm a warm welcome welcome withwith prayers prayers in the in the temple temple for afor year a year of of safety, safety, good good fortune fortune andand health. health. JanJan 1-71-7 Senso-ji, Senso-ji, 2-3-1 2-3-1 Asakusa, Asakusa, Taito. Taito. www.senso-ji.jp. www.senso-ji.jp. Music Jamie Cullum Music Jamie Cullum jazz-pop star’s to Japan TheThe jazz-pop star’s firstfirst visitvisit to Japan since 2010 kicks off a nationwide since 2010 kicks off a nationwide key-tinkling tour. key-tinkling tour. 2930 & Orchard 30 Orchard Hall, JanJan 29 & Hall, Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 3477 9999. Shibuya. 03 3477 9999. www.bunkamura.co.jp. ¥6,500 www.bunkamura.co.jp. ¥6,500 adv.adv.

Later Later in the in the year… year… ArtArt & Culture & Culture Senso-ji Senso-ji Setsubun Setsubun (bean-scattering) (bean-scattering) ceremony ceremony JoinJoin crowds crowds of up of to up100,000 to 100,000 at at Senso-ji Senso-ji temple’s temple’s setsubun setsubun ceremony ceremony – where – where participants participants throw throw special special beans beans to cast to cast off the off the previous previous year’s year’s badbad vibes. vibes. FebFeb 3 Senso-ji, 3 Senso-ji, 2-3-1 2-3-1 Asakusa, Asakusa, Taito. Taito. www.senso-ji.jp. www.senso-ji.jp. Sport & Fitness Tokyo Marathon Sport & Fitness Tokyo Marathon Marathon returns foreighth its eighth TheThe Marathon returns for its year, some 36,000 runners year, withwith some 36,000 runners setset to tear up the streets. a good to tear up the streets. FindFind a good sideline spot cheer participants sideline spot andand cheer participants onthey as they sprint/shuffle past. on as sprint/shuffle past. 23 Starts from Tokyo FebFeb 23 Starts from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Metropolitan Government Building, Shinjuku. Building, Shinjuku. www.tokyo42195.org/2014. www.tokyo42195.org/2014. Want Want more more upcoming upcoming events? events? Go Go online online to to timeout.com/tokyo timeout.com/tokyo

HATSUMODE: HATSUMODE: FIRST FIRST PRAYER PRAYER DecDec 31 31 Expect Expect big crowds big crowds at Tokyo’s at Tokyo’s shrines shrines for the for first the first prayer, prayer, as well as well as food as food andand drinkdrink stalls stalls to keep to keep you you entertained. entertained. The The atmosphere atmosphere is lively, is lively, andand many many shrines shrines havehave traditional traditional shows shows suchsuch as Shishias Shishimai,mai, a lion a lion dance, dance, in which in which you you cancan feedfeed the beast the beast (or person (or person in in costume) costume) andand earnearn some some goodgood luck.luck. MeijiMeiji is the is biggest, the biggest, but but pretty pretty much much every every shrine shrine will be willopen be open andand bustling bustling on New on New Year.Year. SeeSee www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo for more. for more. FreeFree (but(but taketake coins coins for praying). for praying). COUNTDOWN COUNTDOWN JAPAN JAPAN 13/14 13/14 DecDec 28-Tue 28-Tue 31 31 ThisThis annual annual indoor indoor music music festival festival in in neighbouring neighbouring Chiba Chiba features features more more thanthan its fair its share fair share of top of top Japanese Japanese bands. bands. ThisThis year’s year’s lineup lineup includes includes Orange Orange Range, Range, Scandal Scandal andand Tricot. Tricot. Makuhari Makuhari Messe, Messe, Mihama, Mihama, Chiba. Chiba. www.countdownjapan.jp. www.countdownjapan.jp. Tickets Tickets fromfrom ¥9,500. ¥9,500. FIREMAN FIREMAN FESTIVAL FESTIVAL Jan Jan 6 6 Every Every year,year, the Tokyo the Tokyo FireFire Department Department putsputs on aon nervea nervejangling jangling display display of stunts of stunts at the at the top top of towering of towering bamboo bamboo ladders, ladders, bothboth to commemorate to commemorate howhow the the Japanese Japanese usedused to fight to fight firesfires during during the Edo the Edo period period (by (by destroying destroying buildings buildings around around the the fire to fireenclose to enclose it. Well it. Well it’s one it’s one wayway to dotoit…) do it…) andand to pray to pray for afor safe a safe yearyear ahead. ahead. Hear, Hear, hear. hear. Tokyo Tokyo Big Sight, Big Sight, 3-11-1 3-11-1 Ariake, Ariake, Koto, Koto, Tokyo. Tokyo. SeeSee www.timeout. www.timeout. com/tokyo com/tokyo for more. for more. Free.Free.

For For youryour full,full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide guide to Tokyo to Tokyo visitvisit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 15 15

Tokyo Diary Tokyo Diary

IMAGES: ©TOKYO MARATHON FOUNDATION

Nightlife Nightlife Womb Womb Adventure Adventure ’13’13 TheThe hugely hugely popular popular dance dance festival festival returns returns again, again, thisthis time time withwith Richie Richie Hawtin Hawtin headlining. headlining. DecDec 14 Makuhari 14 Makuhari Messe, Messe, 2-12-1 Nakase, Nakase, Mihama, Mihama, Chiba-shi, Chiba-shi, Chiba. Chiba. 03 5459 03 5459 0039. 0039. www.womb www.womb adventure.jp. adventure.jp. ¥7,000 ¥7,000 on the on the day;day; ¥5,500 ¥5,500 advadv (until (until NovNov 26);26); ¥6,000 ¥6,000 advadv (from (from NovNov 27).27).

Tokyo READY P16-19 SHIBUYA_Layout 10 23/10/2013 13:25 Page 16

Promotional feature

Visions of Shibuya

LOCAL INSIGHT

he Shibuya district is synonymous with the image of Tokyo in many people’s minds – and yet it is constantly changing. One of the best examples of this is Shibuya station: as place that is used daily by some 3 million people, it is a terminus that represents all of Japan, but it has recently undergone a huge transformation. Inspired by the idea to ‘make Shibuya the most desirable destination in Japan’, the new multistorey complex Shibuya Hikarie, which connects to Shibuya station, was opened on April 26 2012. And on March 16 2013, the Toyoko Line and the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line were connected, forming a wide rail network from Yokohama, through Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, and all the way to southern Saitama. Plans for further development are on the way. So where will all this change lead? Three blocks of land around Shibuya will be the main stage for this large-scale development,

Constantly evolving, Shibuya is a district with its eyes firmly set on the future. With its exciting multimilliondollar overhaul already motion, the new Tokyo starts here…

dubbed ‘a development with the next 100 years in mind’. At its core will be three towers that will become symbols of Shibuya to surpass Shibuya Hikarie. The east tower, which opens for business in 2020 –when Tokyo hosts the Olympics –will be about 755 feet tall. Lower floors will be for retail and above them will be an office floor with an area of around 753,500 square feet –the largest such space in the Shibuya station area. The central tower (about 200 feet) and the west tower (about 250 feet), which will host businesses, are to open in 2027. All the business premises combined will cover an area of around 753,500 square feet, the largest in all of Japan. Architects from Kengo Kumaand Associates and the internationally renowned SANAA have been appointed to design the lower floors of the buildings and the open space.

Now 2027

FROM EDO TO THE PRESENT

Future city plan What’s in store for the station in the coming years

The ‘southern block development plan’ will revolve around a 33-floor complex to be used mainly for office space (to open in 2017). When finished, a total of some 480,000 square feet of office space will be available on the upper floors. The middle floors will have a 200-room hotel, and on the lower floors will be a hall, retail premises and other facilities that blur the boundary between work and play. There are also plans for two open spaces as well as a promenade almost 2,000 feet long surrounded by greenery. The goal is to create an environment that will enhance innovation and interaction among those who work in the creative industries. The ‘Dogenzaka block development plan’ is expected to be revived at the east side of Shibuya station. The plan is to reconstruct the current

Shibuya Tokyu Plaza into a 390-foot-tall complex with high-class offices on its upper floors and retail premises on its middle floors. The complex is to open in 2018. A bus terminal including airport limousine stations will be installed on the first floor, and a pedestrian deck connected to the ‘station block’ will also be built. When these large-scale developments are completed in 2027, Shibuya will be completely reborn as an entertainment city that will make businesses and citysavvy people around the world sit up and take note. With the establishment of a new environment that cultivates innovation and culture, Shibuya will surely continue to lead Tokyo – and Japan – as the country’s most desirable destination.

A development with the next 100 years in mind

Urban paradise Shibuya’s vision for model city living

It may be hard to imagine given its bustling image, but in the Edo period, Shibuya was a tranquil rural area. Aoyama Road (formerly the Oyama Road) linked Shibuya to other towns during this time. If you exited Edo Castle (currently in Chiyoda Ward), passed through the Akasaka Gate and followed the Aoyama Road, you would see the grand estates of the shogun retainers extending all the way to asuzaka Aoyama. And past Miyamazuzaka a serene landscape would unfurl. Aoyama Road extended all the way to Numazu in Shizuoka Prefecture, and served as a crucial partner to the Tokaido Highway that ran from Tokyo to Kyoto. Just as Ueno is today seen by residents of Tohoku as Tokyo’s front door, in the Edo period the travellers coming to Edo from Osaka, Kyoto and other western regions considered Shibuya to be the gateway to Edo. At the start of the Meiji era, to support the economy of the burgeoning metropolis of ‘Tokyo’, the new government instituted reforms, and Shibuya transformed into an area rich in agriculture. By the end of the Meiji period, the Tamagawa Railway was in place, and Shibuya station was converted into a terminus. Once the Yoyogi army parade ground was finished and military bases were moved in, Shibuya began morphing into the urban landscape familiar today. In the early Showa period (19261989) the railway operator Tokyu (now Tokyu Corporation) gained firm control over Shibuya and when the Seibu department store opened after WW2, a development war broke out. Shibuya went on to earn a reputation as the top retail and entertainment district in Tokyo. Nowadays, Shibuya is a hub that links Aoyama, Harajuku, Omotesando, Ebisu, Daikanyama, Yoyogi-Uehara, Nakameguro and other fashionable districts that are popular with young people. Shibuya overflows with people, life and energy – and it is showing no signs of slowing down.

Promotional feature

Think Tokyo, think The district of Shibuya is Tokyo’s beating heart. Here’s why…

W LOCAL INSIGHT

hen people outside Japan think of Tokyo, odds on they’re thinking of the district where fashion, technology, commuter crowds and neon clouds are all at their most intense. And to prove it, here are the facts and figures – compiled by the advertising agency Tokyu’s Research Institute – that reveal why, among the capital’s wards, Shibuya has the edge…

IT’S NUMBER 1 ON MOST FOREIGN VISITORS’ LISTS When asked, ‘Which areas did you visit in Tokyo?’ 42.5% of respondents cited Shibuya, compared to 41.8% who mentioned Shinjuku, and those who said Ginza (38.1%), Akihabara (33.6%) or Asakusa (33.4%).

SHIBUYA IS AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF TOKYO TECH With almost twice as many IT firms as any other district, Shibuya has 124 technology firms (compared to Shinjuku’s 78, Shinbashi/Shiodome’s 35, and Ginza/Yurakucho’s 34).

SHIBUYA IS A MECCA FOR MUSIC

There is a total of 67 music venues in Shibuya – more than in Shinjuku (22), Roppongi (14), Ikebukuro (12) and Ginza/Yurakucho (11) combined.

SHIBUYA WARD IS THE MOST FASHIONABLE WARD IN TOKYO

… though only just. Shibuya is home to 19 fashion industry premises, compared to Shinjuku ward’s 18 and the 12 found in Chou/Toshima ward. uo

Shibuya SHIBUYA IS A PARADISE FOR FREELANCERS AND START-UPS … with more shared offices than any other in Tokyo: Shibuya ward has 37, Minato ward 27, Chiyoda ward 18, Chuo ward 11 and Shinjuku ward has 8.

THE SHIBUYA CHECKLIST Recommended cultural spots in Shibuya

TOKYU HANDS From stationery to toilet-seat covers, this is the largest household-goods store in Tokyo. Particularly interesting is the party supplies section, which gives a unique glimpse into the Japanese sense of humour. It can be difficult to find your way around the multitude of floors. 12-18 Udagawa-cho. 03 5489 5111. www.tokyu-hands.co.jp.

SHIBUYA PUBLISHING BOOKSELLERS Staff at this ultra-hip Shibuya book shop are more interested in encouraging new discoveries than hawking the latest bestseller. It’s a rewarding place to browse even if you can’t read most of what you’re looking at – though they do stock some English titles. 17-3 Kamiyamacho. 03 5465 0588. www.shibuyabooks.net.

d47 MUSEUM The eighth-floor museum in the towering Shibuya Hikarie building is all about spreading the love. Themes change every one to three months, from architecture to crafts, food, fashion and the environment. Next-door there is d47 SHOKUDO, which serves food from all 47 prefectures. 8F Shibuya Hikarie, 2-21-1 Shibuya. 03 6427 2301. www.d47museum.com.

POSTALCO This classy stationery and accessory shop started life in Brooklyn, New York in 2000, and did a lengthy stint in Kyobashi before relocating to its new home in Shibuya in 2012. If you prefer paper to iPads, you’ll love their notebooks with cotton covers and travel bags sturdy enough to carry a stack of hardbacks. 3F, 1-6-3 Dogenzaka. 03 6455 0531. www.postalco.net.

HACHIKO SQUARE IS TOKYO’S FAVOURITE MEETING SPOT

When more than 1,400 people were asked about their favourite meeting places in Tokyo, 79% included Shibuya’s Hachiko Square on their list – the clear favourite above Shinjku Alta (cited by 58%), Gin no Suzu at Tokyo station (30%) and the Moyai statue (also in Shibuya (22%).

Hachiko statue

SHIBUYA OFFERS THE MOST DIVERSE FOOD IN TOKYO In Shibuya you can find restaurants serving 27 different types of ethnic cuisine – compared to 26 varieties in Shinjuku, 25 in Ginza/Yurakucho and 23 in Roppongi.

SCRAMBLED LEGS? This is Japan’s most famous scramble crossing, where the spectacle of people who come and go from Shibuya station and its surrounding streets, and intertwine like a human flood is often seen

in the media. At this scramble crossing, which is not only well known in Japan but also internationally, approximately 2,500 pedestrians start walking in chorus when the lights turn green.

TOKYO Pg20 House Advert 23/10/2013 12:08 Page 20

WINNER

INTERNATIONAL CATEGORY

2010, 2011, 2013

For the third time in four years, Time Out is proud to be named the PPA’s…

InternationalConsumer BrandoftheYear

To all Time Out editions, in 35 cities around the world… thank you and, in all 11 languages in which Time Out is published, congratulations! You did it again. timeout.com

Tokyo READY P21 ETIQUETTE 22/10/2013 12:07 Page 21

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 1 How to behave at dinner You’re a long way from Yo! Sushi… Observe these rules and avert random acts of restaurant rudeness. By Rebecca Morice.Illustrations by Daniel Morgenstern

hen you arrive in Japan, it’s only a matter of time before the culture shock hits (right after the jet lag). Never fear, though – Time Out Tokyois on hand to help you navigate the less immediately obvious Japanese customs and rules of conduct. We begin, this issue, with the most important one of all – eating in public. Here’s our guide to basic chopstick competence, the best use of your oshibori and when it’s okay to slurp (quick spoiler: it’s okay to slurp).

especially useful in the hubbub of an izakaya. Some places provide a buzzer, so you can pretend you’re on ‘The Weakest Link’ while you wait for your wakame. DON’T LEAVE A TIP Tipping isn’t the done thing in Japan, so unless you want the staff to chase you down the street, keep the gratuity to yourself. To say thanks, instead start your meal by saying ‘Itadakimasu’ (‘I will receive’) and end with ‘Gochiso-sama deshita’ (‘It was a real feast’). It’s politer –and you’ll be 10-12.5 per cent better off.

DO EAT WITH YOUR MOUTH OPEN In many Western cultures slurping has a bad rep. But in a ramen joint, noisy dining is practically mandatory. Make your selection, pay at the ticket machine and in moments you’ll be rewarded with a steaming bowl of pork, noodles and greasy broth. Clasp your food with your chopsticks and commence your slurping. The louder, the more appreciative. (Expert hint: to avoid broth leakage, purse your lips to form a gap between your lower lip and gum –this will act as an effective slurp-slop gutter.)

DO TOWEL DOWN It’s likely you’ll be given an oshibori (wet hand towel) to freshen up with before eating. Guidebooks warn against using it to wipe your face, but you’ll still see plenty of salarymen flannelling away. If you feel the urge to join in, remember it’s face first, hands second.Also, never blow your nose at the table –it’s seen as uncouth. Blow your nose into your oshibori, and it’s sayonara social life.

DON’T BE COY Want service? Subtle eye-contact won’t work here – bellowing a hearty ‘Sumimasen!’ (‘Excuse me!’) when hungry is the best approach. It’s

For a daily guide to city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

C H O P S T I C K C H U R L I S H N E S S And how to avoid it… DON’T TRANSFER YOUR TERIYAKI Much eating etiquette stems from ancient rituals –such as the rule that it’s impolite to pass food from chopstick to chopstick. It suggests a custom that takes place at cremation ceremonies – so is considered, believe it or not, a bit of a buzz killer...

DON’T IMPALE YOUR RICE If you’ve seen the movie ‘The Wolverine’,you’ll know never to stick your chopstick upright into a bowl of food – especially not rice. This mimics another cheerful funeral ritual whereby rice is offered to the dead with the chopsticks standing straight up in the bowl. Do this and strike the death-knell for your evening.

DON’T SLICE YOUR SUSHI Sushi is designed to be scoffed in a mouthful. Eating with your hands is customary, and chopsticks are fine too. Basically you’ll be okay as long as you don’t go chomping into it or – heaven forbid – sawing into it with a knife and fork. Nothing to do with funerary rites this time –it’s just that sushi on your chin is never a good look.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

Tokyo READY P23 SANRIKU 22/10/2013 12:19 Page 23

After the flood The town in 2011 following the tsunami

n March 11 2011, a force-9 earthquake struck the Pacific coast of Japan, setting off a tsunami that swept inland, wiping out villages and towns, and damaging nuclear power plants. It was the world’s fifth strongest earthquake this century, and the most powerful ever on record in Japan. More than half (4,465) of the 8,000 homes in the beautiful town of Rikuzentakata were either damaged or completely destroyed. So it’s only fitting that this Iwate Prefecture spot would be this year’s host for the Tour de Sanriku Cycling Challenge – the twowheeled tournament that started in October 2012 in support of recovery efforts. Standing near the former site of Rikuzentakata station, it is hard to imagine the stores and houses that used to line the streets of this nowderelict town. In their place, here and there, can be seen what remains of the missing buildings’ foundations.But the town’s survivors are determined to return to their former way of life, and the Tour de Sanriku has given them something to focus on. This year’s event included three special participants: Tokyoite architect Manabu Chiba;

The ride to recovery Two years after being hit by the worst tsunami in Japanese history, the torn-apart town of Rikuzentakata shows how far it’s come –with some freewheeling help. By Akiko Toya Uphill task Mascots brighten the road (below left), and Shelly (right) joins fellow cyclists

American Greg LeMond, three-time winner of the Tour de France; and Shelly Fredrickson, from Alaska, whose younger brother, Monty, lost his life in the disaster. As an assistant language instructor, Monty taught English at elementary schools in Rikuzentakata before the tsunami hit. Looking out over the town, Shelly says: ‘It’s beautiful, absolutely beautiful. The greenery, farms, ocean, the people in this community – I just don’t think you can find this in a large city. I’m especially happy to see kids have tennis courts and places to play again. If our children are happy, then we have a good future.’ Architect Manabu Chiba is involved in various recovery projects in the area. He recalls 2012’s Tour de Sanriku: ‘Last year, the roads hadn’t been fully repaired and there were numerous places throughout the course where riders had to dismount and walk their bikes. Things have improved now. I was especially impressed to see the ikada rafts used for fishing were back in the ocean. It’s a major accomplishment that people can work again.’ As Rikuzentakata slowly makes progress, so does the Tour de Sanriku: this time the course had been a longer and tougher ride (making it more appealing to the athletes, apparently). There were still points where riders had to walk their bikes. But, if someone has the desire to keep on going, no matter the speed, they will reach their goal. As Greg LeMond said, ‘I feel the race I’ve done was a lot easier than what people in Rikuzentaka are facing now. It’s a very beautiful area and people are in a good team. I hope they can remain positive and keep moving forward.’ www.tour-de-sanriku.com/index_e.html

MIKIO KUROKAWA, GETTY

It’s a major accomplishment that people can work again

ANOTHER WAY TO SHOW YOUR SUPPORT Rikuzentakata’s City Museum was destroyed in 2011. Now some artefacts have been recovered, and are currently being restored by specialist volunteers, as part of a Disaster Document Digitalization Project. To make a donation and to find out more, go to http://tsunami-311.org/?lang=en.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

Tokyo P24-35 50 Reasons_Layout 10 copy 23/10/2013 13:09 Page 24

50 REASONS IS THE GREAT CITY IN THE W

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo P24-35 50 Reasons_Layout 10 copy 23/10/2013 13:10 Page 25

S TOKYO ATEST WORLD

Tokyo’s far too polite to boast, but let’s face it: this is one hell of a city. There’s a reason why everyone from William Gibson to Kanye West has fallen in love with the place: it’s a sprawling metropolis so crammed with distractions that everyone seems to get something slightly different out of it. Whether it’s the fashion, the world-class food, the respect for tradition, or the consuming pop-culture buzz – the recently anointed host of the 2020 Olympics always delivers. But why are we convinced it’s the best? We’ll give you 50 answers to that question... Words James Hadfield Photography Satoshi Asakawa

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 25

Tokyo P24-35 50 Reasons_Layout 10 copy 23/10/2013 12:09 Page 26

[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

When Japan’s economic bubble burst in the late ’80s, it sent the nation into an economic and existential funk that ended up lasting for two decades. Tokyo didn’t slump nearly as badly as other parts of the country, but there was a long stretch where it felt like the capital was drifting listlessly rather than hurtling into the future. Not any more: while the 2020 Olympics look set to provide the city with a huge ego boost, that’s just the latest thing to smile about. Whether it’s forward-thinking projects such as Tokyo Skytree and the recent redevelopment of the Marunouchi and Shibuya areas, or the fact that we’ve had a change in governor, the city is back on track again.

Because fashion is a way of life When it comes to fashion, Tokyoites put most of the civilised world to shame. From junior high school kids to senior citizens, people here invest painstaking effort in keeping up appearances – and that includes a nearly slavish devotion to the latest trends. Spend the afternoon on Harajuku’s Cat Street and you can enjoy an ad hoc catwalk parade, as shoppers flaunt their newest outfits. Head to nearby Omotesando for a ritzier, more mature crowd, or explore the second-hand clothing shops and punky boutiques of Koenji and Shimokitazawa. The fashion world is less stratified – and more accessible – than it used to be: even in upmarket Ginza, you’ll find flagship branches of Uniqlo and Gap alongside the high-end boutiques and old department stores.

Because we have Golden-gai For decades, Shinjuku’s legendary drinking quarter has provided a haven for musicians, writers and lowlifes. Like a relic from a bygone era, it also offers the most intimate night out imaginable: there are more than 200 bars and eateries crammed into its alleys, and most only have space for half a dozen people. Find out more on page 68 with our expert guide. Because we have tropical islands Imagine if New York included a chunk of the Bahamas. That’s kind of what the deal is here. Nicknamed the Galapagos of the Orient, the remote Ogasawara Islands are home to a plethora of unique and diverse flora and fauna. Owing to an administrative quirk, they’re also technically part of Tokyo – despite lying 1,000km from the rest of it.

BECAUSE WE HAVE MORE THAN ONE FUJI If you can’t be bothered to climb all 3,776 metres of Mount Fuji, relax. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, devotees built replicas of the peak around Tokyo, using rocks from the mountain itself, and you can still find 50 of these mini mountains – known as fujizuka – today.

26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Because we have the world’s best domestic airport – and that’s official Already lauded by the likes of Monocle magazine, Tokyo Haneda added another gong to the list when it picked up the Skytrax award for ‘World’s Best Domestic Airport’ in 2013. Convenient, efficient and spotlessly clean, it also packs enough shops and restaurants to make you want to get there well before your flight leaves.

OLYMPICS: GETTY IMAGES; MOUNT FUJI: SHUTTERSTOCK/SEAN PAVONE

BECAUSE IT’S FINALLY GOT ITS MOJO BACK

Naoki Inose Governor of Tokyo ‘Tokyo is a dynamic city that also happens to be the safest in the world. It maintains a train network that runs by the minute, and a bullet train that stops at locations precise to within a centimetre. You don’t have to worry if you lose your wallet – ¥3 billion in cash is returned to its owners every year. Such sophistication, and the deeply ingrained spirit of hospitality among its people, are what make Tokyo the best city.’

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[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

Because our XXX-rated shops are nice places to shop

Trust the city that gave us the Tenga to take sex shops to another level. No mere dens of iniquity, stores such as Pop Life Department M’s in Akihabara make picking up whips and corkscrew butt plugs feel thoroughly normal. And if you ever wondered what a ¥200,000 phallus looks like, you can find out at Shibuya’s C’est Bien (03 3464 6538, www.cestbien.jp).

BECAUSE YOU CAN GO HIKING WITHOUT LEAVING THE CITY LIMITS Tokyo residents pining for the great outdoors don’t have to go far: the western reaches of the prefecture are prime hiking territory. Mount Takao, in suburban Hachioji, is the most-visited peak in the world, drawing 2.6m people each year. If you’re seeking peace and quiet, head for the more remote Okutama area instead.

BECAUSE IT’S THE HOME OF THE LOVE HOTEL Adulterers don’t have to settle for a squalid motel in Tokyo – they can live it up in style at one of the city’s love hotels. Unfailingly discreet and often gloriously tacky, these romantic getaways are worth visiting even if you aren’t up to anything naughty. And there are literally hundreds of them.

Because we have so many wonderfully loveable freaks Pity the tourists who still head to Harajuku on a Sunday expecting hordes of cosplay kids. That scene’s long gone, but there are still all kinds of nattily attired oddballs to be found here – including the rockabillies in Yoyogi Park and the marauding zombie enthusiasts – so that you can always find someone who’s a bigger freak than you. Because it has a shrine for every occasion – even finding love Whether you’re looking for success in exams, good business fortune, or just a cure for your ailments, Tokyo has a shrine to answer your prayers. That’s even true of people pining for true love – just point your compass towards Tokyo Daijingu in Iidabashi.

Because we have a record-breakingly tall tower Rising to a whopping height of 634m, the Tokyo Skytree (www.tokyoskytree.jp.en) is officially the tallest tower in the world, beating down its rival in Dubai (the 828m Burj Khalifa is technically a ‘structure’).

HIKING: FUMIE SUZUKI / TIME OUT; CONVENIENCE STORES: ALAMY/DIRECTPHOTO.BZ, LOVE HOTEL; KYOICHI TSUZUKI

Because we have all-night nail salons In a city that prioritises convenience, there’s no such thing as a silly time of day to get a manicure. Whether you go to Roppongi’s Beauty Planet (03 3403 4114, www.b-planet.net), Ikebukuro’s Ame-Doigt (03 5944 9837, www.amedoigt.com) or Shinjuku’s Aya (03 3204 2139, www.nail-aya.com), there are a host of late-opening beauty salons around the city, eager to give your talons a makeover in the wee small hours of the morning.

BECAUSE OUR CONVENIENCE STORES ARE ACTUALLY CONVENIENT For an example of Japanese retail at its most hyper-evolved, just look to the humble convenience store. FamilyMart, 7-Eleven, Lawson and co appear to be locked in an eternal struggle to make life as easy as possible for the average consumer. More than just somewhere to stock up on snacks, they peddle a dizzying range of services: you can send packages by courier, get a cup of freshly ground coffee or pick up some clean underwear. Oh, and there are more than 5,000 of them scattered around the city, almost all of them open 24 hours a day. Like we said: convenient. Similarly, Tokyo’s pharmacies are also super progressive, with stores such as Sanzenri Yakkyoku (pictured), Matsumoto Kiyoshi and Tomod's offering everything from paste-on warming plasters to alcohol, all in one condensed, colourful outlet.

Yuki Ota Olympic fencer ‘It’s the huge diversity of food here that makes Tokyo the greatest city in the world. We have a wide range of both fast and slow food, all of high quality. I also love that the city has so many different faces. Shibuya and Harajuku are known for having lots of young people incessantly hanging out. In Ginza you can shop for luxuries, Roppongi is famous for its nightlife and Asakusa is a very traditional sector.’

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 27

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[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD] Gaisen dolls Sazae’s owner Shion, behind the bar, and (below), revellers cut loose to ’70s hits

Because it has one of the best gay bars in existence

hen you’re gay in Tokyo, Shinjuku Ni-chome is the place to party. Spread across several blocks of narrow streets and packed with bars, the capital’s LGBT quarter has a reputation to rival New York’s Christopher Street – albeit in more coddled surrounds. By night, it’s the prime spot for the gay and lesbian crowd, who flock to clubs or watering holes; by day, the bar culture gives way to the clientele of the quirky restaurants and coffee shops. And like nearby Kabukicho, Ni-chome never seems to pause for breath: year-round, it’s the neighbourhood that never sleeps. Originally an inn town on the road out of Edo, Shinjuku took on a seedier guise as the years passed; by the end of WW2, it had the dubious honour of being Tokyo’s foremost red-light district. However, gay bars only started to appear in the capital after the war, first in the downtown districts of Ginza, Shinbashi, Ueno and Asakusa. These gradually spread into what’s now ShinjukuSanchome, but it took until the second half of the ’60s before they made

their way into Ni-chome. One of the first, in 1966, was a place called Sazae. Yet labelling this place a ‘gay bar’ doesn’t quite do it justice: it’s also an old-school dance club. When I first set foot there in the late ’70s, at the age of 21 or 22, it was known as a ‘gay disco’. Back then, if you pushed open the door in the early hours, you’d be blasted with the latest dance hits from that era. Fortunately, you’ll have a similar experience today. ‘It’s a disco now more than ever!’ enthuses Shion (pictured), its owner since 1978, when the club moved to its current location and became ‘New Sazae’. Shion’s flamboyant personality is also a draw. A quarter French, hewas born in the Nagasaki prefecture, and lost both parents as a child. After living with his grandfather in Lyon, France, he returned to Japan to attend secondary school, and found work as a fashion model. This led to a stint as a radio host, and he was soon something of a star in Nagasaki. Next, Shion decided to pursue further education at Tokyo’s Sophia University, to guarantee his future here. Once in the capital, he fell in with the music and theatre scenes, which in turn led him and his friends to Sazae. He became a regular customer there, it wasn’t long before he earned his place on the other side of the counter. But while the disco era would prove short-lived, New Sazae endured. These days, it’s particularly

It’s particularly popular with ‘gaisen’ – Japanese guys who prefer to hook up with foreigners

28 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

popular with gaisen – Japanese guys who prefer to hook up with foreigners and vice versa. According to Shion, the ratio of gay-tostraight clientele has recently shifted. ‘In the beginning, I’d say about 90 per cent of the people who came here were gay,’ he says. ‘But nowadays it’s more like 20 to 30.’ The number of straight, cross-dressing customers is also on the rise. ‘We welcome everyone and encourage them to let their hair down,’ adds Shion. Open until 5am on weekdays and 7am at weekends, 365 days a year, the club is a perfect fit for the district that never stops dancing. New Sazae: 2F, 2-18-5 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. 03 3354 1745. www.tinyurl.com/TOTsazae. Shinjuku-Sanchome station. 10pm-5am SunThu, 10.30pm-7am Fri, Sat, Sun. Entry is ¥1,000 and includes one free drink, after which everything (food and drinks) is ¥700. Kyoichi Tsuzuki is the author of books including ‘Roadside Japan’ and ‘Tokyo Style’. www.roadsiders.com

IMAGES: MASAYUKI YOSHINAGA. KAORU YAMADA WWW.KAORUYAMADA.COM

Disco lives on at New Sazae bar –and writer Kyoichi Tsuzuki has been going there since the first time around

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[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

BECAUSE IT’S A POPCULTURE PARADISE

When you’ve got wacky girl group Momoiro Clover Z fronting public safety campaigns and even the Bureau of Sewerage boasting its own cute little mascot, it’s hard to take things too seriously. Pop culture infiltrates almost every aspect of life in Tokyo, such as the ever-present ‘image characters’ (the, often cartoon, ‘face’ of a brand), and the sound trucks that blast shoppers with upbeat J-pop ditties. Not for nothing has singer and Harajuku style icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu practically become the city’s ambassador – and thanks to the likes of manga-influenced artist Makoto Aida, even the contemporary art world hasn’t been spared. Just be warned: if you’re an anime, manga, music, film, fashion or video game junkie, you might want to leave the credit card at home before embarking on a shopping trip here.

Because we have the Mecca of Otaku: Akihabara

BECAUSE YOU CAN WATCH ENORMOUS MEN IN LOINCLOTHS WRESTLE IN THE NAME OF SPORT National sports don’t get much quirkier than sumo wrestling, and even if you don’t understand the intricacies, it’s a hugely entertaining spectator sport. There are a total of six tournaments (basho) in Japan each year, and Tokyo’s Ryogoku Kokugikan hosts three of them – in January, May and September. 30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

It was once one of the dorkiest districts in Tokyo, but the increased cultural clout of Japan’s otaku (people with obsessive interests) has transformed Akihabara into a must-visit destination. Manga, anime, idolatrous pop – it’s all here, and although there aren’t as many electronics shops as there used to be, this is still the best place to score the most cuttingedge gadgets at bargain prices.

Because you’ll never have to open a taxi door

As if hailing a cab instead of schlepping to the nearest subway station didn’t make you lazy enough, in Tokyo you don’t even have to open the door yourself – the driver presses a button to do it for you. Brilliant.

Because you won’t ever have to pay your own commuting costs

When you’re looking for a new place to live in Tokyo, one of the things you won’t have to consider is the price of your commuter pass: most Japanese companies foot the bill for you. So there’s nothing stopping you from exploring the city.

Because we have Tokyu Hands When people describe Tokyu Hands (www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/en) as the shop that sells everything, they’re exaggerating… but only a little. The multi-floor branches in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ginza and Ikebukuro are the first port of call for shoppers seeking anything, whether kitchenware, party goods or DIY products.

POP CULTURE: ALAMY/EPA/KIYOSHI OTA, SUMO: SHUTTERSTOCK/J. HENNING BUCHHOLZ

Tsuyoshi Takashiro Videographer and DJ ‘The charm of Tokyo is the fact it exists as a place that’s both flat and excessive. Historical sites and cutting-edge venues stand side-by-side; culture that has existed here for thousands of years sits next to trends that have only been around since last month. In other words, there’s no hierarchy nor layers: everything is in excess. Excess wipes out the hierarchy.’

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[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

BECAUSE LOST PROPERTY ACTUALLY GETS RETURNED – INTACT

BECAUSE YOU CAN BATHE IN HOT SPRING WATER

ALAMY/MIXA/RYOJI SAKURAI, STREET FESTIVAL: Y.SHIMIZU/ JNTO

Living in one of the most volcanically active countries in the world has its perks. You’ll find natural hot springs throughout Japan, and that includes Tokyo. Try Oedo Onsen Mongatari for an Edo-era onsen theme park, or take a dip in the distinctive black kuroyu waters at neighbourhood bathhouses such as Shimizuyu in Musashikoyama. See page 73 for info on Izu Hot Springs, too.

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu Artist and pop star ‘On my world tour, I travelled around many countries and enjoyed the shopping and attractions. I loved every minute of it, but when the tour ended and I returned to Tokyo, I reflected and thought: Yeah, I really like Tokyo. In my opinion, what’s fascinating about the city is that certain buildings are very Japanese in style, like Tokyo Tower. My favourite place in Tokyo is Harajuku. There’s no place like it, where you can enjoy fashion and music so freely!’

So low is the fear of thieves in Tokyo that people often use their handbags to reserve seats while placing an order in coffee shops. And if you’re unfortunate enough to lose your wallet or bag, there’s a good chance it’ll be returned to the nearest station or police box… without anyone pinching the contents first. Because you can sing karaoke in a hot tub Part karaoke box, part theme park, Lovenet in Roppongi offers some truly outlandish rooms. Best of all is the Aqua Suite, where you can warble your way through the hits from the comfort of a hot tub – and don’t worry, you can borrow a swimsuit if you’ve forgotten to bring your own. Because you can watch big-name bands in intimate venues Grimes, Jake Bugg, Savages: artists who’ve already graduated to thousand-plus capacity venues in the US and Europe typically alight at smaller joints such as Club Quattro (03 3477 8750, www.clubquattro.com) when they come to Tokyo. Tickets may be pricey, but audiences are rewarded with the chance to see their new favourite bands up close and personal.

Because it’s heaven for bookworms

Print ain’t dead – at least not as far as Tokyo’s concerned. While e-books are still a rare sight on the city’s trains, you’ll discover literally thousands of bookshops here, including bibliophile wet dreams such as the gorgeous Daikanyama Tsutaya Books (above; www.tinyurl.com/TOTbooks). And you could lose a day browsing your way through the Jimbocho neighbourhood, home to an amazing 180 second-hand bookshops and street stalls.

Because you can have coffee with exotic critters

Cat cafés were just the beginning. In a city where many landlords forbid pets, people have to get creative – which might explain why Tokyo has coffee shops where you can cosy up not just with felines but with rabbits, goats and owls. Head to nearby Yokohama and they’ve even got a reptile café. See page 82 for a few Tokyo cats you might see gracing a venue near you.

BECAUSE WE HAVE VIBRANT STREET FESTIVALS YEAR-ROUND Japan has a keen sense of tradition, and that’s as true of Tokyo as it is of anywhere else. One of the most conspicuous examples is the street festivals that crop up throughout the year, many of them enacting centuries-old rites in the traditional fashion: fuelled by generous quantities of sake and bonhomie. Events such as the massive Sanja Matsuri (pictured above) draw millions of spectators, but almost every neighbourhood seems to have its own portable shrines tucked away, ready for their own, smaller-scale festivities. Make friends with some locals in your area and you might even end up getting roped in to the action yourself. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 31

[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

BECAUSE WE HAVE THE MOST EFFICIENT TRANSPORT SYSTEM ON THE PLANET Shifting the equivalent of a medium-sized country’s entire population is all part of a day’s work for the Tokyo transport system. The dense network of overland and underground rail lines manages to cover most of the city, which might explain why many residents consider car ownership a pointless extravagance. Sure, commuters love to grumble about the rush-hour crowds and (mostly insignificant) delays, but when you consider the volumes of people riding the trains every day, it’s remarkable how smoothly everything goes. And where else in the world do you get given special notes to pass on to your boss if your train is late?

Because it’s affordable

Sure, Tokyo regularly tops surveys of the world’s most expensive cities. But if you stop shopping at import supermarkets and start eating more like locals, life here becomes a lot cheaper. Whether you frequent the ¥100 shops or neighbourhood grocery stores teeming with cheap seasonal produce, it isn’t hard to find bargains.

TRAIN: SHUTTERSTOCK/VACCLAV, CAPSULE HOTEL: ALAMY/BARRY LEWIS

Because we have the best fireworks festivals in the world Fireworks aren’t just reserved for special occasions in Tokyo. Throughout summer, you can witness jaw-dropping displays of pyrotechnics pretty much every weekend in the capital – and best of all, they’re free.

Because there’s no such thing as ‘too niche’ here

Want to drink in a bar devoted to model trains, airsoft guns or monster movies? In Tokyo, you can find all that and much more. Don’t believe us? Head to Nakano Broadway (5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano) and prepare to be amazed.

BECAUSE IT ISN’T THE END OF THE WORLD IF YOU MISS THE LAST TRAIN HOME It may not have 24-hour public transport (yet), but Tokyo has multiple options for people who’ve missed their last train and don’t fancy drinking until dawn. Get an all-night package at a karaoke box, rent a booth in a manga café, head to a capsule hotel – the choice is yours.

Keiichiro Shibuya Composer and musician ‘Is Tokyo the number one city in the world? The strange thing about this question is that it doesn’t acknowledge the rest of Japan and its place between Tokyo and the rest of the world. But I think that’s the way it should be. Actually, I think what I love most about Tokyo is that it encourages such an innocent question to be asked.’

Because we have Don Quijote Like Tokyu Hands’ wayward sibling, Don Quijote (www.donki.com) is your go-to place for discount clothing, alcoholic spirits, toiletries, furniture, homeware, kinky costumes, sex toys, electronics and whatever else they’ve managed to cram into the cramped, chaotic aisles. And as if this insane eclecticism wasn’t enough, many of the branches – including Roppongi and Shinjuku – are open 24 hours. Because it’s one of the safest metropolises on the planet Life in Tokyo can feel like being wrapped in a thick blanket sometimes. How many of us have stumbled home tipsy in the wee hours of the morning, without having to worry about getting relieved of our valuables on the way back? That’s because violent crime is a rarity here: assaults and muggings are practically unheard of, and unless you’re a member of the yakuza you’re unlikely to get bumped off (according to UN statistics, Tokyo’s homicide rate is a mild 0.4 per 100,000 people – compared to a more frightening 5.6 in New York). Of course, as with anywhere else, it’s still important to exercise caution – purse snatching is a problem, and bicycle theft is rife – but in general, peace of mind reigns supreme. And that’s nice to know.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 33

EATINGING & DRIsNtrKonomic

[WHY TOKYO IS THE BEST CITY IN THE WORLD]

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BECAUSE THE FAST FOOD IS HILARIOUSLY OTT

It may seem like a waste to come all this way only to go to a fast-food chain… but that’s until you’ve seen some of the bizarre, limited-edition offerings on the menu here, such as the truffleand chorizo-laced ‘premium’ burger that McDonald’s sold for merely a single day. Because you can experience food as it really tastes (ie raw) Fish sashimi is not the only thing that gets served up raw in Tokyo. Look out too for sashimi made from beef, chicken and horse – or more esoteric options such as deer, boar and bear (no, really). Because you won’t find better bartenders anywhere else The cult of the mixologist never really took off here – bartenders are far too busy perfecting the classics. The highballs at Star Bar (03 3535 8005) will be the best you’ve ever tasted.

BECAUSE WE’VE GOT THE BEST SUSHI Because we have some seriously extreme eats Looking for something to revive a jaded palate? Try Asadachi (1-2-14 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku), a tiny restaurant found in the charmingly named ‘Piss Alley’, where the stomach-churning seasonal specials might include raw pig penis, grilled salamanders or frog sashimi – prepared right before your eyes from a live specimen.

This one’s a no-brainer, really. There are some mighty fine sushi joints to be found in other cities around the globe, but you just can’t beat the quality or range of Tokyo’s restaurants, from the three-Michelin-starred Sukiyabashi Jiro (03 3535 3600, www.sushi-jiro.jp) to scruffy counter shops in Tsukiji Market (see page 47). Hell, even the conveyor belt stuff ain’t bad.

Because we serve the tastiest pizza this side of Naples That old stereotype about Japanese perfectionism certainly seems to apply to the capital’s growing ranks of pizzaioli. While fans of American-style pies will find the offerings here a bit lacking, the Neapolitan treats dished out at pizzerias such as Da Isa (03 5768 3739, www.da-isa.jp) and Seirinkan (03 3714 5160, www.tinyurl.com/TOTseir) are arguably as good as anything you’d find in Italy.

Because our desserts are just downright sublime

BECAUSE WE’VE GOT THE COSIEST BARS AND RESTAURANTS Spaciousness is overrated. Some of the most memorable nights we’ve had in Tokyo were spent snuggled up at the counter in tiny restaurants and bars that would’ve struggled to fit more than ten people. The average neighbourhood has dozens of places like this – perfect for an intimate, personalised dining experience. 34 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

COD SPERM: ALAMY/NEIL SETCHFIELD, RESTAURANT: KAZUNARI OGAWA, EXTREME DESERTS: ALAMY

You’d never know from looking at people’s enviably svelte waistlines that this is a nation of sweet freaks. Try Tokuya in Harajuku (03 5772 6860, www.tinyurl.com/TOTtokuya) for elegant renditions of classic Japanese desserts such as warabi mochai (jelly made from bracken starch, dipped in toasted soy bean flour), or indulge at one of the capital’s many foreign imports, such as Milan’s Gelateria Marghera (2-5-1 Azabu-Juban, Minato) and Honolulu pancake specialists Cafe Kaila (5-10-1 Jingumae, Shibuya). Well, you can always work it off the next day by climbing up Mount Fuji.

[ W H Y T O[ KWYHOY I TS OTKHYEO BI ES STTH CE I BT YE SI TN CT IHTEY WI NO RT LH DE ]W O R L D ]

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For your full, Forup-to-the-minute your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo guidevisit to Tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 35 35

Discover Marunouchi

LOCAL INSIGHT

Absorb history and the high life in this elegant and eminent district

riginally under water, the Marunouchi district was slowly claimed as it emerged from the sea in the 1590s by one of the most famous men in Japanese history, Tokugawa Ieyasu who established the Edo shogunate. In the centuries that followed, Marunouchi became the site of the Tokyo mansions of more than 20 of the nation’s leading feudal lords, but by the late 19th century, times had changed. The 1868 Meiji Restoration saw the renowned Iwasaki family (of later Mitsubishi fame) move in, purchasing the land for ¥1.28 million. Initially known as Mitsubishi Fields, it wasn’t long before the district was the most cosmopolitan locale in the country, and is

today situated between Tokyo station and the Imperial Palace – where it services as one of the largest business centres in the world. Buildings made of brick that resembled London façades sprang up – followed by reinforced concrete offices that could have been transplanted from New York – many designed by famed architect Josiah Conder; early automobiles ran along the streets and Japan’s main rail hub, Tokyo station, opened nearby in 1914. Although affected by the earthquake on September 1 1923, Marunouchi soon returned bigger and better than ever. Redevelopment since has seen Marunouchi return to the fore of Japanese business on the

Vantage point Tokyo station and Marunouchi’s skyscrapers as seen from the KITTE building

F R O M C A S T L E S T O S K Y S C R A P E R S Marunouchi’s historical milestones

The early days Edo-era (1603-1868) How the Marunouchi area first looked, with the then-Edo castle (top) and feudal lords’ mansions outlined.

Mitsubishi Fields c. 1890 Marunouchi when it was purchased for ¥1.28m by a member of the Iwasaki clan – founders of Mitsubishi. Soon after the area was nicknamed Mitsubishi Fields.

Mitsubishi Ichigokan c. 1894 Designed by British architect Josiah Conder, the original Mitsubishi Ichigokan was the first Western-style office building in the area. It was restored in 2009 and is now a museum.

Itcho New York c. From 1918 An early example of the modernist, American-style buildings in Marunouchi that came to be referred to as ‘Itcho New York’.

In association with

And while you’re here… … make sure you’ve sampled these essential Marunouchi experiences

global front with today’s skyscrapers home to as many Fortune 500 companies as New York – and two more than London. At street level and atop of some of the taller buildings you will find some of the world’s most sophisticated stores and an array of amazing dining opportunities. No visit to Tokyo is complete without a few hours in this ultra-modern corner of the city. And for those visiting in the future, access will be even easier thanks to the presence of Shin-Tokyo station (tentative name) and set to link both of Tokyo’s international airports in just an hour. Words: Mark Buckton Photography: Satoshi Asakawa

A light stroll Naka-dori Avenue is a winter wonderland

SEE THE LIGHT FANTASTIC For an end-of-year winter display to remember, take a stroll down Nakadori Avenue. The luxury-branded street hosts a suitably lavish annual illumination featuring more than a million gold twinkling stars along a 1.2km route. More than enough to take your breath away. Oct 1-Feb 16 2014. FILL YOUR PLATE Japanese food is famous the world over and much of it comes together in one place at one time with local treats from around the nation, and a food contest all can enjoy. Japan Food Festa is hosted by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, and can be found in various locations in central Tokyo. Nov 2 and 3.

MARUNOUCHI TODAY

EDIFY YOUR EARDRUMS The annual classical festival La Folle Journée (‘Days of Enthusiasm’) will take over Tokyo International Forum in early May 2014, with a series of more than 300 concerts by world-class musicians. The festival

also features free events such as concerts around the Marunouchi area. Early May 2014. DANCE ARM IN ARM WITH THE ANCESTORS There are few things more characteristically Japanese than heading to a summertime ‘bon’ festival to welcome ancestral spirits back to earth. Don a yukata, pick up a bite from food stalls and have a go at Japan’s most traditional of dances at the Marunouchi Bon Odori Festival, where you can while the evening away with the locals. End of July 2014. GO SUBTERRANEAN SHOPPING – AT AN UNDERGROUND MARKET Twice a month, descend underground to the walkway that links Marunouchi with Tokyo station to Marunouchi Gyoko Marché (market), for your chance to pick up some of the best local produce the city has to offer – as fresh as it comes, directly from the growers. Every second and fourth Friday.

Bon chance! The Marunouchi Bon Odori Festival

At the hub of all things business in modern-day Japan, this is how Marunouchi’s iconic skyline looks currently. Instant Marunouchi! To find the latest Marunouchi landscapes, visit ‘marunouchigram’ at http://photo.marunouchi.com

To check the latest on anything mentioned in these pages, head to http://www.marunouchi.com/event (Japanese with some English available), or call 03 5218 5100 (Japanese only).

Tokyo READY P36-39 MARUNOUCHI 23/10/2013 12:05 Page 38

Promotional feature

It’s a Marunouchi thing… It’s not just where Tokyo’s business elite work and play. We’ll give you ten reasons to fall in love with Marunouchi

Shopping is dreamlike Top-brand flagships and small boutiques rub shoulders on leafy boulevards, and in the open hallways of gleaming skyscrapers. And there are plenty of eclectic cafés in which to collapse and bask in a post-retail afterglow.

Sens & Saveurs

It’s the cuisine capital… of the capital Marunouchi is a hotbed of innovative cuisine and fine dining with great views. It’s also home to the Marunouchi Chef’s Club – a network of elite cooks, in which Japan’s top chefs work to promote healthy eating by way of their experience and passion for food.

You can get educated before work Morning University of Marunouchi has a range of courses for early risers to cram in study time before work. The one-hour sessions include topics as varied as radio presenting, Kabuki and Bushido. See www.asadaigaku.jp/en/

8 4

Omotenashi through and through – and hotels aplenty Few areas in the world can boast as many top hotels within walking distance of each other as Marunouchi, and from 2016 HOSHINOYA Tokyo –a tatami-floored luxury Japanese-style inn with exquisite manners – is set to add to the mix. Those fortunate enough to stay in this area will discover the intuitive Japanese concept of hospitality, ‘omotenashi’: a term made famous during Tokyo’s successful 2020 Olympics bid.

It has some well-known international friends… Unbeknown to many, Marunouchi’s trendy Naka-dori Avenue, Bond Street in London and Madison Avenue in New York share a street alliance agreement, which more than befits their globally renowned outlets, exquisite settings and all-round ambiance of style and panache.

The buildings are iconic Encompassing the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo, New Generation Skyscrapers and Tokyo International Forum, the pretty frontage of Tokyo station and the historic Teikoku Theatre, the range of architectural gems in Marunouchi is unique in Tokyo. And you can see it all on one gentle stroll.

It’s the business hub of the nation Marunouchi is to Tokyo as the City is to London. It’s home to Japan’s largest banks, financial firms and insurance companies, as well as being a point of entry for venture companies. Marunouchi is the place to be, the name to know and the neighbourhood in which to negotiate. In fact, all consolidated sales in the area correspond to approximately 23 per cent of Japan’s GDP.

It boasts impressive artistic heritage A wander around Marunouchi is like walking through an open-air gallery. Statues and objet d’art provide a sculptural eyeful along Naka-dori Avenue, complemented by a handful of museums in the area, and art displays in the store windows.

IZUMI ANDO, G-PROPORTION 2013, COLLECTION OF THE ARTIST

It has a team of elite street cleaners First impressions count, and Marunouchi has long been a gateway for foreign ambassadors and VIPs –and the streets around its main strip, Naka-dori Avenue, are kept spotless by a SWAT-style team of cleaning attendants.

Tokyo READY P36-39 MARUNOUCHI 23/10/2013 12:06 Page 39

In association with

BY THE NUMBERS Marunouchi’s vital statistics

For that unrushed ‘Happy hour’…

Unlike elsewhere in Tokyo, happy hour in the bars and restaurants of Marunouchi is about taking it slow. Make like a local after a hard day in the office, kick back by sitting back and watching the world glide by with a glass of beer and a snack or two. Here are some local happy-hour hotspots we can recommend…

THE PERFECT ROMANTIC DATE Head to Maison Barsac for a reasonably priced Parisian-style restaurant with wine starting at just ¥700 per glass and nibbles at around ¥500. The simple menu is perfectly French, the wine list a mix of European old-world options. Maison Barsac, 1-2F, 2-5-2 Mitsubishi Building, Marunouchi. Tokyo station JR, Nijubashi-mae. www.impec-barsac.com. 03 5220 4871. 11am-11pm daily.

LORDING IT UP Four hundred years ago, 24 of Japan’s ‘daimyo’ lords had homes in the area of the former Edo Castle, now the Imperial Palace. ‘Marunouchi’ means ‘Inside the Circle’, referring to its position inside the moat.

LUXE LODGINGS With just under 2,000 hotel rooms – 1,814 in top city hotels and a further 161 in business hotels – Marunouchi is ideal for those looking to combine classy style with a buzzing location.

HAPPY TRAVELS The two overground and three underground stations in Marunouchi see some 2.35m daily passengers. This figure dwarfs the 300,000 that pass through New York’s Grand Central station.

WORTH A FORTUNE Money talks… and Marunouchi is home to no less than 18 Fortune 500 companies – the same as the whole of New York, and two more than the whole of London. And there are only 48 in the whole of Tokyo.

My Marunouchi

ILLUSTRATION DANIEL MORGENSTERN

Danish expat Christian Skovhoj, 39, gives us his first impressions of his new home

OFF THE BEATEN MICROBREW TRACK Known as ‘PCM’ the Pub Cardinal Marunouchi offers a range of affordable Japanese microbrew beers as well as a wine list that’s hard to match in the area. Pub grub starts from just ¥500 for a small plate. Pub Cardinal Marunouchi 1F, 2-7-3 Tokyo Building, Marunouchi. Tokyo station JR. www.tinyurl.com/TOTpcm. 03 5222 1251. 11am-4am; Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-11pm.

THE CLASSIEST HAPPY HOUR IN THE COUNTRY Dinner at The Peninsula Tokyo ’s restaurant Peter averages at around ¥10,000. But for as little as ¥700, drinks at the adjacent bar during happy hour (5pm-8pm daily) can be quaffed with a captivating view out across the city. Peter: The Bar at The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho. Hibiya station. www.peninsula.com/peterthebar. 03 6270 2763.

What’s your job? I work for a German shipowner, Oldendorff, and, in the Tokyo office, I’m in charge of buying and selling ships. How long have you been working in Marunouchi? Only six months. I’m quite new to this part of the city. This is my second time working in Tokyo. I used to work at Kojimachi, then moved to New York for six years but came back to Tokyo two years ago, together with my Japanese wife. What do you do after work? I sometimes have a drink

before going home. I often go to a great wine place called Enoteca with colleagues or clients. Does anywhere remind you of home in Marunouchi? There is a great Danish hot dog place called 4R Danish Cafe in Tokyo International Forum. You can have a hot dog with Carlsberg beer. What’s special about Marunouchi? I think Marunouchi is the coolest business area in the city. It’s convenient, and there is a great, energetic vibe. It’s the best place to work in Tokyo.

Tokyo READY P40-43 TOKYO IN PICS 22/10/2013 12:21 Page 40

Time Out + TOKYO-GA

They shoot Tokyo The ambitious TOKYO-GA project unites more than 100 photographers in a quest to capture Japan’s capital. Here is a selection from their epic urban adventure…

pen your eyes to TOKYO-GA, an art project that features 100 photographers from both Japan and abroad. Its goal is to uncover new meanings and values –and to inspire progress through contemplating the city of Tokyo and the many people who come into contact with it. Since ancient times, Japan has absorbed many cultures, developing the mélange into a unique culture all of its own. Tokyo, the centre of Japan, is defined by diversity a kaleidoscope of cultures and influences. For the first issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine, a collaboration with TOKYO-GA seemed an obvious choice. These pictures were selected from the project’s archives to convey a full sense of the city –from the originality of Tokyo captured in simple shots of the everyday things that seem to pass us by (such as the charming details and orderly harmony by photographers César Ordóñez and Navid Navid Baraty) to still-living reminders of Tokyo’s history (like the Shintoism and sumo wrestling by Tatsuya Hirabayashi and Daisuke Kamimura). The images’ variety of angles and the diversity of subjects encourage you to feel the coexistence of chaos and stillness that is so characteristic of the Japanese capital. As Naoko Ohta, commissioner of TOKYO-GA, elegantly puts it: ‘Tokyo is a city living on the cutting edge of the future. The charms of such a place can be truly expressed only through a medium as direct and moving as photography.’ Photographers on these pages: 1. César Ordóñez, 2. Daido Moriyama, 3. Masami Yamamoto, 4. Christopher Morris, 5. Michael Feather, 6. César Ordóñez, 7. Gentaro Ishizuka, 8. Naobumi Chiba, 9. Satoshi Asakawa, 10. Sébastien Lebegue, 11. Mitsugu Ohnishi

40 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P40-43 TOKYO IN PICS 22/10/2013 12:22 Page 41

11 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 41

Tokyo READY P40-43 TOKYO IN PICS 22/10/2013 12:23 Page 42

Time Out + TOKYO-GA

16 42 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P40-43 TOKYO IN PICS 22/10/2013 12:24 Page 43

20 Photographers on these pages: 12. Rei Kishitsu, 13. Navid Baraty, 14. Noriko Yabu, 15. Naoki Honjo, 16. Michael Feather, 17. Michael Wolf, 18. Daisaku Oozu, 19. Daisuke Kamimura, 20. Taishi Hirokawa, 21. StĂŠphanie Fraisse, 22. Tomoki Hirokawa, 23. Masayoshi Sukita, 24. Thomas Prior, 25. Yukinori Tokoro, 26. Tatsuya Hirabayashi

TOKYO-GA is an extensive art project that unites 100 Japanese and international photographers and their individual perception of Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grand picture. The purpose of this project is to reflect upon future actions and movements while considering what we have, who we are and what we discover in the process. www.tokyo-ga.org

26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 43

Eating Eating&&Drinking Drinking

Eating & Drinking

Hiya, Hiya, izakaya! izakaya! Bar food Barat food a traditional at a traditional izakaya izakaya is an ideal is an way idealtoway try to try a whole a whole rangerange of Japanese of Japanese cuisine cuisine in oneintasty one hit. tasty hit. Sayaka Sayaka Kawabe Kawabe compiles compiles our shortlist our shortlist of small of small platesplates

PHOTOGRAPHY: TOSHIO SATO

44 For your 44 For full,your up-to-the-minute full, up-to-the-minute guide to guide Tokyoto visit Tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

PHOTOGRAPHY: TOSHIO SATO

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Tokyo FINAL P44-49 EATING & DRINKING 22/10/2013 15:16 Page 45

Dodgy grounds? Not these days… Find a decent cup at Fuglen (left) and Nozy (right)

COFFEE TO GO! Perk up at top coffee stands Little Nap at Yoyogi Park, or Bear Pond Espresso in Shimokitazawa.

Prospects for caffeine fiends in the capital have perked up, as –just like the rest of the world –Tokyo has seen a recent flourishing of independent, conscientious coffee houses. Here’s our carefully filtered selection…

okyo: nice city, shame about the coffee. This used to be a standard complaint among foreign residents and visitors alike. Even those with a natural aversion to Seattle’s most famous coffee export would be forced to resort to the nearest Starbucks for a cup of Joe halfway palatable. And while part of the problem was down to ignorance (Café de l’Ambre has been open since 1948, for crying out loud), the worthwhile places generally took a lot of effort to find, with outlets specialising in espresso being particularly thin on the ground. No more. The last few years have seen a sharp increase in the number of serious-minded coffee makers plying their trade around the capital, many of them roasting their own beans and helming heavyduty espresso machines. Moreover, with the odd exception, most of them actually know what they’re doing, too. Time Out Tokyo’s bean testers are well used to trawling the city in search of Tokyo’s best coffee shops, and we’re increasingly impressed by how many smart, high-quality places we are discovering. But terraforming Tokyo from scorched-coffee desert to perfectly roasted oasis is a work in progress. If we’ve missed your favourite spot, let us know via Twitter: @TimeOutTokyo. Otherwise, read on for our crème de la crème…

Central Tokyo

Identity Coffee Bar + Gallery For hardcore coffee nerds This is the first Japanese outpost of Chicago-based roasters Intelligentsia.Here you can choose single-origin beans that are tagged not just by country but by their particular farms. Blended coffee, ¥490. 1F Ares GardenOmotesando, 4-28-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. Fuglen For Scandinavian style When it isn’t whipping up cocktails, this Oslo importserves some tasty Norwegian roasts: the espressos are good; the AeroPress is outstanding. Espresso, ¥250 (single). 16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya. Sarutahiko Coffee For office fuel Ebisu’s dinkiest café spot excels at

espressos, lattes and drip brews – and it’s ideally located to ensnare office drones on their way to work. Brazil coffee,¥480 . 1-6-6 Ebisu, Shibuya. Streamer Coffee Company For coffee as an art form While the free wi-fi and communal seating are nice touches, it’s the ‘extreme latte art’ of owner Hiroshi Sawada and his crew of eager baristas that keeps people coming back for more. Streamer Latte, ¥520. 1-20-28 Shibuya, Shibuya. Cafe de l’Ambre For authentic Tokyo café culture ‘Coffee Only’ reads the sign outside this bustling shop, which has served the Ginza hordes since 1948. Soak up the heritage and take your pick from 30-odd varieties. Blended coffee, ¥650. 8-10-15 Ginza, Chuo.

West Tokyo Nozy Coffee For a hot hipster hangout The kids behind the counter are barely out of university, but they’re already making some of the best coffee in town. Latte, ¥350. 2-29-7 Shimouma, Setagaya.

Tocoro Cafe For elegant, ritualised sipping A minimal, uncluttered interior provides an apt setting for the unlikely –and surprisingly successful –fusion of coffee making and Sado, the ancient Japanese tea ceremony. Blended coffee, ¥600. 3-38-2 Shimouma, Setagaya.

North Tokyo Coffee Tei For homesick Brits Try not to be distracted by the decor – equal parts British pub and British tea room – and immerse yourself in a coffee menu that’s the size of a guidebook. Blended coffee, ¥735. 1-7-2 Ikebukuro, Toshima.

South Tokyo Primoordine For a classic Italian experience In true Italian style, coffee here is cheaper if you drink it standing at the counter. Primoordine even runs an ‘academy’ to school coffee newcomers in the art of pouring. So laid back it’s practically decaffeinated. Blended coffee, ¥420. 2-11-20 Higashigaoka, Meguro.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 45

Eating & Drinking

Coffee bars for connoisseurs

Tokyo FINAL P44-49 EATING & DRINKING 22/10/2013 15:17 Page 47

Eating & Drinking

T S U K I J I S E A F O O D S A F A R I What to sample at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest fish market

í˘ą SALTED

SKEWERED SHRIMP Tsukiji Kaihokan Kachidoki Sushi Sou-Honten The shrimp on offer here is the archetypal Tokyo street snack. There are plenty of other options too, including grilled scallops, king crab, oysters and fried tuna. Head to the first floor for rice bowl dishes, or the second floor for multi-course meals. 4-13-7 Tsukiji. 03 5565 3907. 10am-3pm, 5-10pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10-8pm Sun.

í˘˛ AGE KAMABOKO

Tsukugon This veteran store has been in business for around 140 years, selling seafood-paste products such as hanpen (a pounded fish cake) and date-maki (a rolled omelette mixed with fish paste). Recommended is its age kamaboko â&#x20AC;&#x201C;fried white fish thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mixed with chopped onion and wrapped in bacon. 4-9-11 Tsukiji. 03 3542 0180. 6am-2pm Mon-Sat.

choosing difficult, try the crunchy and aromatic fried kujira. 4-10-17 Tsukiji. 03 6278 8194. 9am-2pm daily.

í˘ą

í˘´ YUMCHA

Suga Shoten The oddball of the Tsukiji over-thecounter market, Suga Shoten sells yumcha (dim-sum-like dishes taken with tea) that are cooked up in its billowing steamers. The small meat buns are a good choice â&#x20AC;&#x201C; generously stuffed and wrapped in a thin layer of dough. 4-10-2 Tsukiji. 03 3541 9941. 6am-3pm Mon-Sat.

í˘ľ FILLET CUTLET

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SANDWICH Senri-ken Senri-ken has been operating since the early Taisho era, selling seafood dishes, fried food and rice bowls. Popular menu choices include stew, cakes and coffee, but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d have to recommend the fillet cutlet, served up between two slices of buttered toast, and seasoned with a sweet and spicy sauce for a sarnie thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll send your taste buds spinning. Tsukiji wholesale market, Bldg 8, 5-2-1 Tsukiji. 03 3541 2240. 4am12.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed Sun and public hols.

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Sanoki-ya Be forewarned: the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;grilled tunaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at this outer market isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t what you might expect. The dish on offer is actually taiyaki, a fish-shaped dessert that consists of a pancake shell filled with red bean paste. Taiyaki literally means bream â&#x20AC;&#x201C;but Sanoki-yaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s version is shaped like a tuna. Confused? Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t taste like eitherâ&#x20AC;Ś 4-11-9 Tsukiji. 03 3543 3331. 7am-3pm Mon-Sat. Words: Takeshi Tojo

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Kujira no Tomisui It's not for everyone, of course, but if you want to sample fresh whale sashimi, tartare or other dishes, then this is the place to do it â&#x20AC;&#x201C;a kujira (whale) shop (the only one within the Tsukiji outer market) that has been stocking whale meat for the past 30 years. If you're finding For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 47

Eating & Drinking

he lively Tsukiji Market has become one of the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular â&#x20AC;&#x201C;and pungent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; attractions. Every day (barring Sundays, public holidays and some Wednesdays when the market is closed) Japanese and foreign tourists alike school towards the outer market. This is the section where those who arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t interested in purchasing tuna by the shipping unit are admitted to browse Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freshest seafood. Visitor numbers have increased dramatically in recent years, and the influx of tourists has brought plenty of changes to the market â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the most welcome of which are the shops and stalls that have sprung up to cater to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s increasing culinary curiousity. Get there in the morning (Tsukiji Market is usually open to the public from 5am and many of the vendors shut up shop by 11am) and be warned: the food choices can be as difficult to navigate as the market itself. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s our guide to the best snacks to reel in on your way throughâ&#x20AC;Ś

Tokyo FINAL P44-49 EATING & DRINKING 22/10/2013 15:18 Page 48

Eating & Drinking

Can the world’s best dining city get better? Yes it can. Here is our pick of Tokyo’s best newly opened restaurants

Eating & Drinking

multitude of fresh eateries have opened in Tokyo so far in 2013. New concepts include a café modelled on a Parisian apartment and the mini-bistro, with room for only ten diners. Each venue strives to express its individuality via its decor, vibe and, of course, cuisine. Here are our seven picks. Napkins at the ready... APPARTEMENT 301 Modelled after the chambres d’hôte of rural France, the antique-style decor of this newly opened caférestaurant is a little disorienting with its clashing patterns and chintzy lamps. But once you get used to it, the Asian-Italian fusion cuisine is a novel and surprisingly successful blend. For example, the popular Asian Noodle-Style Spaghetti, a fine al dente pasta in tom yum-style twists, is served with a nam pla, garlic and herb sauce, and has enough heat to give you a little kick while making sure you’re compelled to finish the whole plate. 3-4-5 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3561 0620. www.atticroom.jp/301. Yurakucho station. 11.30-11:30pm daily. ANTICA TRATTORIA CIURI CIURI This third branch of Italian restaurant Don Cicco opened in March 2013 and offers two menus, one for Sicilian food, and another for more standard Italian fare. The Sardine and Fennel Pasta is an excellent choice for the uninitiated, and the miraculous harmony of texture and aroma will stay with you. The option to have the fish of the day prepared however you like, and the staff’s willingness to accommodate requests, also left a great impression. It’s currently getting so much attention that a reservation is an absolute must. 2-18-20 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 6721 1331. Gaienmae station. Noon-2.30pm and 6-10.30pm, MonSat. Closed public hols.

Crispy Skin-On Pork Back Ribs for a succulent crunch, however the Charcoal Grilled Pork Fillet also packs a lot of flavour. With just four counter seats on the first floor and 54 table seats on the second floor, you really have to book ahead. 3-7-4 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3470 0289. www.facebook.com/ luckyvinnature. 6-10.30pm MonFri, 3-9pm Sat. Closed public hols. FORT GREEN A deluxe hipster hangout with a mere ten seats, hidden in a residential neighbourhood on the second floor of the John boutique. Vintage Scandinavian tableware, East Coast antiques and the vinyl being spun in the background make this a pleasant setting to cosy down for an afternoon. Its owner, Makoto Asamoto, also opened the popular café-bakery, Jiyugaoka Bakeshop, so a selection of its breads and pastries are on offer. The menu mixes bistro fare such as omelettes with American staples including meatballs and clam chowder. The high-end selection of vintage wines bumps up the cost, but you’ll savour each glass. 18-8 Motoyoyogicho, Shibuya. 03 5738 5515. www.fort-greene.biz. Yoyogi-Uehara station. 1pm-midnight daily, 3pm-midnight weekend and public hols. Closed Wed.

RAKKI This newly opened Cantonese restaurant is the brainchild of Shinsaku Katsuyama, owner of Shonzui, Roppongi’s pioneering ‘vin nature’ wine bar; and Kazuo Kikuchi, tea ceremony master, author and photographer with a deep knowledge of Hong Kong. We recommend the 48 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Super bowls Above and inset: Appartement 301. Centre: Rakki Fort. Bottom: Fort Green

Tokyo FINAL P44-49 EATING & DRINKING 22/10/2013 15:18 Page 49

BEST NEW RAMEN RESTAURANTS 2013

KAGARI This side-street ramen seller in Ginza opened in March 2013, and there has been a daily lunch queue outside ever since. A popular dish is the Cooked Chicken Soba: a thick, rich chicken soup with medium-thick noodles, chicken fillet, asparagus, baby corn and spring onion toppings. The soup is rich, but very mild on the palate and well balanced with the other ingredients. You can adjust the flavour to your tastes by adding fried onions or powdered ginger. Among eateries offering chicken ramen soup, Kagariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ingenuity remains unchallenged. 4-4-1 Ginza, Chuo. Ginza station. 11-3.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm daily, until 9pm Sat. Closed public hols.

SHINAGAWA Opened in June 2013 as a second branch of soba experts Basso Drill-Man, this restaurant boasts Chinese cuisine a cut above the rest. The soy-based soup is blended with chicken stock for a refined, subtle flavour, and perfectly houses the smooth, medium-fine, homemade noodles. In fact, the pork fillet, spring onions, bamboo shoots and nori toppings play a supporting role to the broth and noodles. The Chinese Soba, Niboshi Soba (with its tasty dried sardines) and Bamboo Shoot Soba are also all worth trying. 4-19-14 Ikebukuro, Toshima. 03 5926 6178. Shimura-Sanchome station. 11.30-3.30pm daily.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 49

Eating & Drinking

SHINASOBA TANAKA This new restaurant offers culinary art beyond mere ramen. Using strictly seafood-based soups, Shinasobaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dishes are put together with an inspired and almost experimental understanding of textures and flavours. For instance, the Dried Horse Mackerel Soba combines dried-mackerel and kelp stock with thin, tender noodles, a pork fillet, shredded spring onions and perilla, served with a trefoil, yuzu and celtuce topping. It will change your expectations of ramen forever. 2-19-2 Higashiikebukuro, Toshima. 03 3988 0118. Mukohara station. 11.30-2.30pm daily, 5-8pm Mon-Fri. Closed public hols.

Tokyo CLIENT P50-51 MORI BLDG_Layout 2 22/10/2013 15:04 Page 50

Promotional feature

LOCAL INSIGHT

Gateway to the future One of Tokyo's oldest districts gets a unique makeover –with a magnificent skyscraper surrounded by a leafy boulevard taking centrestage

magine standing at the very top of a brand-new high-rise in the heart of Tokyo. With 52 floors, it rivals the city’s other landmark buildings. Doesn’t the skyline look impressive from up there? Now look down. Instead of a concrete jungle with streams of cars below, there’s an open space dotted with greenery and people strolling, cycling and picnicking. Where’s the traffic? Cleverly, it’s all been pushed out of sight, running directly beneath the development and hidden in an underground tunnel that forms part of ‘the loop road No. 2’.

This ‘city within a city’ concept is set to transform Toranomon, a historic suburb that is known for being a vibrant area bustling with business deals and lively social activity. The area is unique in that it has remained relatively untouched by development, but now, this new project by Mori Building, scheduled to be unveiled under the name Toranomon Hills in 2014, will help to revive the area’s reputation as an epicentre for both work and play, and so attract young creatives, families, foreigners and business owners. It’s taken over 60 years for the Loop Road No. 2

idea to materialise. Once complete, the 14km road will help to reconnect central Tokyo with the city’s waterfront areas. The section of the road that is due to be completed in 2014 will connect Toranomon to Shimbashi. Toranomon Hills’ main building will tower proudly above this revolutionary transport artery, welcoming guests into an urban oasis where you can shop, dine, work, live, book a spa treatment or even a rooftop wedding reception at lifestyle boutique hotel Andaz Tokyo. Any way you look at it, the Toranomon of the future is changing our view of city living.

R O P P O N G I E S S E N T I A L S Six great things to do in Roppongi Hills…

TAKE IN A MUSEUM WITH A VIEW The museum on the 53rd floor of Mori Tower hosts some world-class original exhibitions, with an emphasis on contemporary Japanese and international art. It stays open late, too: from 10am to 10pm daily (except Tuesdays). Mori Art Museum, 53F Mori Tower.

SURVEY THE CITY IN 360° The 52nd floor Tokyo City View observatory is impressive enough, but nothing compares to gazing down at the metropolis from the rooftop of Mori Tower, 270m above sea level. On a good day, you can even see Mount Fuji. Sky Deck, Mori Tower.

TRY ON SOME JAPANESE SNEAKERS Retro or modern? Sixty-year-old shoemaker Onitsuka Tiger lets you have both at once. Head to their Roppongi shop to try on their latest sneakers, in vibrant colours and old-meets-new designs. Onitsuka Tiger, 4F West Walk.

TREAT YOUR SWEET TOOTH East is East and West is West, and now the twain have met in the delicious desserts served at Toraya Café. The azuki and cocoa fondant – a baked sweet that blends bean paste with chocolate – is especially good. Toraya Café, 1F Keyakizaka Dori.

Tokyo CLIENT P50-51 MORI BLDG_Layout 2 22/10/2013 15:04 Page 51

Toranomon tomorrows The area is revitalised as a place to live…

Nought to sixty… The loop road was six decades in the making

… and love

WHAT TO DO AT TORANOMON HILLS TOWER Live There are 172 premium residential units on floors 37-46 and homeowners and tenants will enjoy the feel of hotel living with access to the hotel’s spa and room service facilities. You’ll also be privy to the benefits of Mori Living, a unique lifestyle concept created by the Mori building, not to mention the glorious views from your bedroom window. Work Spacious offices are spread out over 30 floors and feature three different anti-earthquake facilities complete with back-up batteries in case of emergency. Since the Tokyo Metropolitan Government designated the area as an Asia Headquarters Special District, offering preferential tax treatment and a ‘concierge’ service, foreign businesses already have a major drawcard for settling in Toranomon. With

Toranomon Hills offering state-of-the-art facilities, the choice to set up business here is an easy one. Shop, eat and drink A sunny glass atrium next to the green, grassy outdoor area houses three floors of restaurants with a culinary theme of ‘high quality casual’. After a delicious lunch, shop for that perfect cocktail dress or pair of heels at one of the many retail stores before taking a break at one of the cosy coffee shops. Rest, relax and say ‘I do’ The crowning glory of Toranomon Hills is the Andaz Tokyo hotel, run by Hyatt Hotels Corporation and occupying the top floors of the building. Main attractions include a rooftop bar where you can sip on a glass of Chardonnay while taking in the view of Tokyo skyline, and a small, private chapel where you can enjoy a very unique wedding ceremony.

What better way to embark on a new adventure with the one you love than at the top of one of Tokyo’s tallest buildings, surrounded by bright city lights? HOW TO GET THERE With its upcoming status as an exciting commercial and leisure nerve-centre, Toranomon needs to be as accessible as possible. Luckily, it’s in the perfect position, with six train and metro stations within walking distance, giving access to 11 lines. Roppongi is just around the corner, while Ginza and Kasumigaseki are also close by. Haneda airport is only 13km away from Toranomon Hills, and if you’re feeling extravagant you can hop on a chopper from the top of the tower and fly straight to Narita airport. The Loop Road No. 2 will also dramatically improve access to the area as it pushes intra-regional traffic underground at the north-west corner of Toranomon Hills, resurfacing again in the Tsukiji area.

FIND YOUR WAY WITH TIME OUT

Snow & Blue illuminations

RELAX IN THE GREEN HEART OF ROPPONGI The creators of Roppongi Hills had the good sense to incorporate a traditional Japanese garden into the complex: a serene spot that offsets its high-tech surroundings. Mohri Garden.

ENJOY A CLASSIC VIEW The Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori offers a picturesque vantage point for gazing out at Tokyo Tower. Best enjoyed during the winter months, when its trees are decorated with fairy lights. Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori.

HEAD TO THE HILLS From Narita Airport, take the Narita Express to Shinjuku, then change for the Toei Oedo line to Roppongi (journey time: 110 mins). From Haneda Airport, take the Keikyu Airport limited express to Shinagawa, change to the Yamanote line to Ebisu, then take the Hibiya line to Roppongi (journey time: 60 mins). Limousine buses and alternative train routes are also available. http://www.roppongi hills.com/ facilities/access/ airport.html

66 THINGS TO DO IN ROPPONGI HILLS Decades in the making, Minoru Mori’s ambitious ‘city within a city’ celebrates its 10th anniversary this year – but even regulars may be surprised to discover how much they’ve managed to cram into the complex. The Time Out Tokyo guide, ‘66 things to do in Roppongi Hills’, has a selectionof the best of what’s on offer. Pick up your copy at the Roppongi Hills information counter and tourist information desks in Haneda Airport, as well as at other locations around Tokyo. http://www.timeout.jp/en/ tokyo/venue/454/Roppongi-Hills

Shopping & Style Boutique reboot

Shopping & Style

Thanks to a constant supply of new stores, Tokyo is a shopper’s paradise. Here’s our pick of the shops breathing fresh style through the capital – and reimagining retail on the way

Best Packing Store

ICON Guided by the hand of creative director Eiji Hatanaka, Icon is a brand-new concept store – having just taken its place in Omotesando in September this year. The theme is ‘House’ (nothing to do with Hugh Laurie), and it stocks high-end fashion for both sexes, collaborating with influential designers and artists on a regular basis and providing them with whole ‘rooms’ in which to express their creativity. Wander through the living room, dining room, library and so on to find pieces by Krisvanassche, JW Anderson, Ann

Demeulemeester, Casely-Hayford, Bless, BLK DNM, Shaun Samson and more. 5-39-1 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6419 7444. www.icontky.com. Meijijingumae, Omotesando and Shibuya stations. Noon8pm daily. CAFE KITSUNE Founded in 2002 by Gildas Loaëc (former manager of Daft Punk) and architecture student Masaya Kuroki, the Kitsuné brand has fingers in several pies – fashion, music and, it seems, coffee. In 2013, Kitsuné launched Café Kitsuné, the Japanese-style café, in MinamiAoyama. Grab a well-brewed cup there and browse the label’s records and CDs,and a selection from their T-shirt lines. Don’t forget to visit Maison Kitsuné’s first standalone store next door, which opened at the same time as the café. It’s currently one of the most sought-after French brands, offering clothing for both women and men. 3-17-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 5786 4842. www.kitsune.fr. Omotesando station. 11-8pm daily. Café open 9am-6pm daily.

52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Café Kitsuné

©JULIEN DAVID, ©JULIEN DAVID, TAKUMI PHOTOGRAPHY THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP-LEFT: HIRANOO MASATOO, JULIEN DAVID, JULIEN DAVID, TAKUMI OTAOTA

o trip to Tokyo would be complete without roasting your credit card a little at the shops. It is, after all, a city at the forefront of fashion, a place where trendsetting teenagers wearing out-there ensembles rub shoulders with impeccably co-ordinated office workers. So whether you prefer the quirky style of Harajuku, sleek designer gear of Omotesando or something completely different, you’ll find retail nirvana in our round-up of the sexiest new shops of 2013.

Julien David

Tokyo READY P52-57 SHOPPING STYLE 22/10/2013 12:26 Page 53

BEST PACKING STORE Packing doesn’t have to be a soulsucking chore, it can be the ideal justification for a fun day of shopping. And at Best Packing Store, you can use the excuse of picking up travel essentials to get excited about your forthcoming trip. This travel-oriented concept shop, located along Meguro River in Nakameguro, sells handy staples such as bags, accessories, menswear, shoes and cosmetics, all designed with travelling in mind. You can browse popular brands including Lorinza, Postalco, Eo To To, Yoshio Kubo, Porter Classic, APC, Saint James and Barbour. It’ll make the journey so much more enjoyable. 1-23-5 Aobadai, Meguro. 03 5773 5586. www.bestpackingstore.com. Nakameguro station. Noon-9pm daily.

ASOKO This brand-new flagship opened on Meiji Street in Harajuku in September. Pick up all manner of nick-nacks and accessories at this goods store, owned by Yu-Shin Creation. Just like its newly launched Osaka branch, this Asoko stocks roughly 1,000 items sourced from all over the world under the overenthusiastic concept of ‘Enjoy surprises!’. But it’s really a great place for souvenir shopping, or if you just want to treat yourself to something unusual. Prices range from affordable (¥21) to outlandish (¥20,000). 6-27-8 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 6427 9965. www.asokojpn.com. Meijijingumae station. 11-8pm daily.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 53

Shopping & Style

Wear/house Top: Novelty homeware at Asoko. Below: Icon

JULIEN DAVID JINGUMAE SHOP The unlikely combination of street style and high-end fashion has cemented Julien David’s place on the high street. The Tokyo-based French designer won the Andam Award in 2012, and just this year launched his highly anticipated flagship store in Harajuku. Filled with

David’s creative sensibilities, the store stocks his men’s and women’s lines, as well as an archive collection of the label’s scarves. The interior is revamped every few months to reflect the seasonal-collection theme. 2-7-15 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5875 3144. www.juliendavid.com. Gaienmae and Harajuku stations. Noon-8pm daily.

We We❤❤Tokyo Tokyosouvenirs! souvenirs! FindFind a more a more tasteful tasteful trinket trinket withwith these these ideas ideas fromfrom team team TimeTime Out Tokyo Out Tokyo – – and and not anot Hello a Hello KittyKitty teatowel teatowel in sight… in sight…

FakeFake foodfood keyring keyring

Tooth Tooth jewellery jewellery

Ganso Ganso Shokuhin Shokuhin Sample-ya Sample-ya A fixtureA on fixture the Kappabashi on the Kappabashi ‘Kitchen‘Kitchen Town’ circuit Town’since circuit1932, since Ganso 1932, Ganso Shokuhin Shokuhin Sample-ya Sample-ya produces produces fake food fake food for display for display in restaurant in restaurant windows, windows, but in but in recent years recenthas years branched has branched out intoout into keyrings, keyrings, phone straps phone and straps DIYand ‘Sample DIY ‘Sample Cooking’ Cooking’ kits. Anyone kits. Anyone else hungry? else hungry? ¥2,100¥2,100 3-7-6 Nishi-Asakusa, 3-7-6 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito. 0120 Taito. 0120 171 839. 171 www.tinyurl.com/TOTganso. 839. www.tinyurl.com/TOTganso. 10am-5.30pm 10am-5.30pm daily. daily.

Aquvii Tokyo Aquvii Tokyo As unusual As unusual Tokyo souvenirs Tokyo souvenirs go, yougo, you could do could a lotdo worse a lotthan worse Aquvii’s than Aquvii’s line line of toothofearrings tooth earrings and necklaces. and necklaces. And And don’t worry: don’tthey’re worry: they’re fashioned fashioned from from medical-grade medical-grade resin rather resinthan rather real than real humanhuman gnashers. gnashers. ¥2,940¥2,940 (same (same price for price earrings for earrings or necklace) or necklace) 6-19-166-19-16 Jingumae, Jingumae, Shibuya. Shibuya. 03 6427 03 6427 1219. www.tinyurl.com/TOTaquvii. 1219. www.tinyurl.com/TOTaquvii. Noon-8pm Noon-8pm daily. daily.

Shopping & Style

Shopping Shopping & Style & Style

‘Chigibako’ ‘Chigibako’ charm charm

Bamboo Bamboo birdcage birdcage

Shiba Daijingu Shiba Daijingu ShrineShrine PeoplePeople have been havebuying been buying these distinctive, these distinctive, three-tier three-tier lucky lucky charmscharms since the since Edothe era,Edo when era,women when women boughtbought them inthem the in the hope ofhope finding of finding a good ahusband. good husband. The three Theboxes threecontain boxes contain beans beans that rattle thatwhen rattleshaken. when shaken. A foolproof A foolproof plan. plan. ¥1,200¥1,200 1-12-7 1-12-7 Shiba-Daimon, Shiba-Daimon, Minato.Minato. 03 3431 034802. 3431 4802. www.tinyurl.com/TOTshiba. www.tinyurl.com/TOTshiba. Opening Opening hours vary. hours vary.

Midoriya Midoriya Operating Operating for moreforthan more a century than a century now, thenow, familythe familyrun Midoriya run Midoriya offers bamboo offers bamboo products products rangingranging from from the everyday the everyday to the exquisite. to the exquisite. Its mushikago Its mushikago cages cages come income a range in aofrange shapes of shapes and sizes, andand sizes, youand canyou can buy bamboo buy bamboo birds and birds insects and insects to keepto inside. keep inside. ¥3,300¥3,300 3-13-3 Nishi-Nippori, 3-13-3 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa. Arakawa. 03 3838 037522. 3838 7522. 11-6pm11-6pm daily, closed daily, Mon. closed Mon.

Origami Origami paper paper Souvenir Souvenir From Tokyo From Tokyo With a name With alike name that, like it’d that, be rude it’d be notrude to include not to include Souvenir Souvenir From Tokyo FrominTokyo this list. in this Thelist. National The National Art Art Center’sCenter’s shop lives shop uplives to itsupbilling to itswith billing a well with a well chosenchosen array ofarray Tokyoof and TokyoJapan-themed and Japan-themed design design products, products, including including this nifty this printed nifty printed origamiorigami paper –paper also sold – also in sold postcard in postcard format.format. ¥892 ¥892 B1F National B1F National Arts Center, Arts Center, 7-22-2 7-22-2 Roppongi, Roppongi, Minato.Minato. 03 6812 039933. 6812 www.nact.jp/english. 9933. www.nact.jp/english. 10-6pm10-6pm daily, until daily,8pm until Fri. 8pm Closed Fri. Closed Tue. Tue. Forfull, your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 54 For54 your up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo: refocused Daikanyama Tsutaya Books sells a great range of photography titles. Here is their pick of Tokyo tomes Tokyo Portraits By Hiroh Kikai Kikai’s portraits of idiosyncratic individuals are known for overflowing with human feeling. Drawing on decades of snapping Tokyo’s Asakusa district, this collection features images taken in back alleyways and by old buildings. Crevis, ¥2,520. ISBN: 978-4-904845-14-1

Boxwood comb Yonoya Kushiho Handmade combs may be a dying art, but the boxwood beauties on sale at this Asakusa shop (established all the way back in 1717) should last for a generation or two if taken care of. From ¥4,800 1-37-10 Asakusa, Taito. 03 3844 1755. 10.30am-6pm daily, closed Wed.

Fortune toothpicks

Tokyo By The Asahi Shimbun Company Published in 1961, this collection captures the dazzlingly fragmented nature of Tokyo, which it posits as being ‘a monstrosity of which no individual part is representative of the whole’. Yukuchi Watanabe, Yoshihisa Tanuma, Shigekazu Nagano, Kikuji Kawada and Eiko Hosoe are all contributors. The Asahi Shimbun Company, ¥21,000. Vintage.

Incense pouch Kyukyodo Established nearly 350 years ago, Kyukyodo supplied incense to the Imperial family during the Edo period, while also specialising in Japanese paper. We’re particularly fond of their palm-sized incense pouches, including the sandlewood-scented kinran kinchaku. ¥630 5-7-4 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3571 4429. www.tinyurl.com/TOTkyuk. 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11-7pm Sun.

Tokyo Twilight Zone By Sato Shintaro Tokyo as seen from above, in pictures taken from emergency staircases in the late evening and early hours. Shintaro expertly captures the uniquely beautiful contrast between the light escaping from buildings and the darkness outside. The images of exploding city fireworks, Tokyo Tower as well as the Sumida River are each especially noteworthy. Seigensha Art Publishing, ¥3,360. ISBN: 978-4861521553

Tokyo Compression Three By Michael Wolf A collection that captures the Tokyo commuter crush, consisting of shots of passengers inside the carriages (pictured below). Taken through steamed-up windows, the images explore the full gamut of human emotion, just detectable through the commuters’ body language: calm on the outside, and inwardly screaming. Peperoni Books, ¥5,624. ISBN: 978-3941825413 Words: Hiroyuki Toyama All books are available from Daikanyama Tsutaya Books. 17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. 03 3770 2525. www.tinyurl.com/p28ntr6. 1st floor: 7-2am daily; 2nd floor: 9-2am daily.

HIROYUKI TOYAMA

Lacquered chopsticks Ginza Natsuno Small and portable, chopsticks make for ideal souvenirs. Mind you, some of the offerings at Natsuno – including lacquered pieces from various regions of Japan – so elegant you won’t want to taint them with your mouth. Or hands. Or eyes. Look away now. ¥4,830 6-7-4 Ginza, Chuo. 03 3569 0952. www.e-ohashi.com. 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, until 7pm Sun.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 55

Shopping & Style

Saruya There are toothpicks, and then there are the little marvels sold at this three-century-old business. The box set comes adorned with a kabuki motif, and its toothpicks are wrapped in fortune slips carrying traditional love songs. Tip: use toothpick before singing. ¥997 1-12-5 Muromachi, Nihonbashi, Chuo. 03 5542 1905. www.nihonbashisaruya.co.jp. 10am-6pm MonSat. Closed Sun & public hols.

Showa Style By Kyoichi Tsuzuki This collection brings together mainly pictures of businesses and public buildings from the entire 45 volumes of Kitao Harumachi’s ‘Architectural Photography Library,’ published between 1953-1970. Eschewing famous buildings, this volume showcases the structures that quietly stand throughout Tokyo. Shokokusha, ¥5,250. ISBN: 978-4-395-01241-1

Shopping & Style

Total shopping Biotop’s biomass façade (left), 1LDK Apartments (below) and the café at Today’s Special (bottom right)

A design for life In love with the Japanese way of living? Immerse yourself in it, in Tokyo’s 360° lifestyle stores

he past two years have seen Japan’s top fashion brands branching out into homeware and ‘lifestyle’ products, opening new stores to supply Tokyo with everything its middle classes could possibly need. But far from being faceless department stores, the new generation of shops aims to fulfil every sense, offering gourmet food, big labels and vintage books. It’s holistic shopping as you’ve never experienced it before – and we’ve rounded up our favourite places to part with a few yen in exchange for nothing less than a new (or at least slightly enhanced) life. Best for… Leisurely browsing 1LDK Apartments Launched in June 2012, 1LDK Apartments is the lifestyle-oriented

branch of 1LDK, the popular Nakameguro clothing store that draws aesthetic comparisons with Muji. Selling clothes, homeware and food, 1LDK Apartments consists of three main sectors, convolutedly labelled 1LDK Me, Taste and Sense, and Edited/Found Store. But don’t let the names put you off, they have lots to offer. Try 1LDK Me for a highly wearable selection of women’s and men’s clothes. Meanwhile, the Taste and Sense food section is a café by morning, then a bar and restaurant from noon. With the Edited/Found Store stocking books and interior goods, this is the sort of place where you can treat yourself on any budget. 1F, 1-7-13 Kamimeguro, Meguro. 03 5728 7140. www.1ldkshop.com. Nakameguro station. Noon-9pm daily.

56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Best for… Green living Biotop With the aim of creating a shopping space within a natural, living ecosystem, Biotop was launched in March 2010. It is one of the leading high-end stores in Tokyo, providing eco-driven fashion and lifestyle products as well as food. Its symbol, a tree house, has been built into the large oak in the courtyard. On the ground floor, you’ll find a good selection of natural cosmetics, and a nursery. The second floor stocks emerging and familiar global fashion CarvenMcCartney. and Hyke. labels such as Stella Above that sits the Irving Place café, offering appropriately healthy fare. 4-6-44 Shirokanedai, Minato. 03 3444 2421. www.biotop.jp. Shirokanedai station. 11am-8pm daily.

Best for… Everyday comforts Today’s Special Launched in March 2012, Today’s Special is the brainchild of popular Tokyo lifestyle brand Cïbone and stocks a wide range of household goods, food, clothes, healthcare items, interior products and furniture. On the third floor, there is an Italian café, Today’s Table, selling seasonal food. Additionally, Today’s Special has another branch at ShinQs, just in front of Shibuya station. 1-2F, 2-17-8, Jiyugaoka, Meguro. 03 5729 7131. www.todays special.jp. Jiyugaoka station. 11am-9pm daily. Best for… Off-the-peg cool Yaeca Apartment Store Yaeca is one of the most hip and understated Japanese brands in the

SHOP FROM YOUR SOFA! www.zozotown.com Launched in 2011, Zozotown’s online outlet stocks more than 700 popular brands in Japan, and ships to 82 countries.

Antique chic Rummage in the best vintage and second-hand stores

ith its cutting-edge technology, trendsetting style and abundant employment of robots, Tokyo’s reputation as a city of the future is well earned. But that doesn’t mean the past isn’t worth revisiting. Here are some of the best places to buy vintage clothes, old-school furniture and beautiful traditional items.

BARA SHOTEN SHIMOKITAZAWA You can buy and sell a variety of used electricalappliances, appliances,brandbrandusedelectrical name products, jewellery, antiques and more at this Shimokitazawa store. The cheerful staff members are skilled at valuing, and offer especially good prices for designer furniture and vintage electrical wares. 5-8-10 Daizawa, Setagaya. 03 3413 7768. www.baras hoten.com (Japanese only). 10am-9pm daily.

country today. Its Apartment Store was opened in May 2012 in order to transfer the label’s ‘logically simple’ aesthetic to non-couture products – although it does also stock their clothes. Pick up books selected by Limart and Post, and some of the one-off vintage items that have inspired Yaeca’s products. Riviera 2b, 1-21-22 Higashiyama, Meguro. 03 5708 5586. www.yaeca.com. Nakameguro station. Noon-8pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon. For more of Tokyo’s best shops see timeout.com/tokyo

Word search Browsing the spines at Jimbocho

professional dealers provide an assortment of merchandise, and you’ll find a range of quality goods – from everyday items to collectibles. 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa. 03 3763 2151. www.tinyurl.com/ on weekends. TOTrace. 9am-3pm daily. OOEDO KAZUKO You’ll find antique kimonos from the Meiji, Taisho and early Showa eras,

as well as used post-war kimonos, obis, and accessories at this Omotesando dealer. The quality of the items is top notch, and novices will be pleased to find Ooedo also offers lessons on how to wear them. B1F Omotesando Bldg, 4-29-3 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 5785 1045. www.ooedokazuko.ooedo-group. com (Japanese). Noon-7pm daily.

JIMBOCHO BOOK TOWN It’s easy to lose a few hours (not to mention yen) rummaging around in Tokyo’s Jimbocho neighbourhood, a bibliophile nirvana that’s home to some 180 second-hand bookshops. Look out for the annual book festival, held in late October each year, when more than 100 local stores erect stalls on the streets. Kanda-Jimbocho, Chiyoda. www.tinyurl.com/TOTjim. Opening times vary from shop to shop. OHI KEIBAJO FLEA MARKET A mammoth flea market, featuring around 600 stores, is held almost every weekend at a venue space set up within the Ohi Racecourse. Many For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 57

Shopping & Style

TORO Specialising in quality vintage clothing from the US and Europe, Toro boasts carefully chosen, ontrend coutural selections that make most of its competitors look like the jumped-up thrift stores they really are. The prices are a little steep, but the staff are friendly and the clothing full of character. 4F, 6-19-17 Jingumae, Shibuya. 03 3486 8673. www.facebook.com/ torovintage. 1-8pm daily.

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Promotional feature

The ‘Venice of Japan’

LOCAL INSIGHT

A bright future for ancient Tokyo

rom the Edo era to the beginning of the Showa era, Nihonbashi was a bustling waterfront city packed with maritime traffic, leading to its former nickname of 'the Venice of the East'. Keeping up the tradition, Nihonbashi now boasts Nihonbashi Hunatsukiba (Nihonbashi dock), a hub for cruise routes and Yakatabune – Japanese-style houseboats that act as floating dinner parties. Almost 3,000 vessels dock at this spot every year, including one cruise option that leads right to Haneda Airport – a little-known route, even among hardened Tokyoites. As international flights from Haneda increase, this route is becoming a more and more attractive option for those who'd prefer their trip to and from the airport to be part of their Tokyo experience. Spend a night in the Nihonbashi area – the Mandarin Oriental is one of many hotels you can choose from – then end your stay on a high by catching a cruise right to the airport (the final leg of the journey is covered by taxi). See the city glide by from the water, and let yourself be transported back to the Edo era – an experience that will guarantee fond memories of Nihonbashi.

Ancient waterways, centuries-old shops and Edo-era cuisine aren’t the only things Nihonbashi has to offer, as an exciting new project takes it into the 21st century

place where modern Tokyo collides with the traditional atmosphere of the Edo era, Nihonbashi shares its name with the bridge it surrounds – indeed, even those who only know basic Japanese lingo should be able to recognise it as a merging of the words Nihon (Japan) and the mutated version of hashi (bridge). The area grew around the bridge's first incarnation – a wooden structure built in 1603. A year later, the same bridge was defined as the starting point of the 'Edo Five Routes' – a cluster of roads that connected Tokyo with the outlying prefectures. As the starting point for these five roads, Nihonbashi welcomed people and goods from across the country, fostering a melting pot of cultures and establishing itself as a centre for trading. The area holds a proud position of being the birthplaces of several essential services – many of which are still relevant today, including Japan's first public company, postal system, bank and even department store (although it was likely a far cry from the sleek structures of today). Its wooden bridge now replaced with stone, this new structure marked its 100th birthday in 2011, and stands as a symbol for not just the area, but also the whole of Japan.

CENTURIES-OLD SHOPS UNITE PAST AND PRESENT Nihonbashi's vital location on the waterside, and the point where the Edo Five Routes converged, cemented its importance as a meeting place for merchants. It was a vital neighbourhood for trading during the Edo and Meiji eras, so it comes as no surprise that many shops were established here – plenty of which are still in business. The oldest have been plying their trade for more than 400 years. Ninben One of the oldest shops in the area, Ninben's speciality is Katsuobushi (dried bonito), a vital ingredient in the making of dashi, a rich stock that adds depth to many Japanese dishes, including miso soup and noodle broth. The company name is now well known across Japan, but the flagship store is still the place to go for a real introduction to this essential Japanese staple.

The Bride The starting point of the ‘Edo Five Routes’

Haibara It hasn't been standing quite as long as some of the shops in the area, but, having opened its doors more than 200 years ago, Haibara is still no newcomer. Specialising in washi – a type of Japanese paper that's used for crafting everything from

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block of lindera umbellata – a wood that carries a light, spicy fragrance – is chopped in half, then quartered, then quartered again, and so on until slim, perfectly formed picks are all that remain. Because of the method used, they can only produce around 2,000 picks per day. Packaged in a delicately painted wooden box, they make an excellent Tokyo souvenir. Sembikiya Another first for Japan, this fruit shop introduced exotic products to the country during the Edo era. Importing fruits from overseas – and even working to improve existing varieties at its farm – Sembikiya was an important contributor to the commoditisation of fruits in Japan.

Looking ahead Nihonbashi is focused on the future

Ninben

Haibara

origami to ukiyo-e – it's known for its Established as a cutlery store, it quality products and has made a made its name among the shoguns name for itself among those with an and daimyo of the time and slowly interest in cultural items. The began to branch out – selling smooth texture of its paper lends cosmetics, stationery and even itself well to the strokes of ivory. Nowadays it specialises in topthe calligraphy brush, quality kitchen and in the Meiji era it blades and became the provides tips on country's first caring for and exporter of cleaning the washi. knives. Haibara's paper was Saruya so admired Toothpicks stand that it was on almost even exhibited at the Vienna every table World Exposition in 1873 in Japan, and the Paris World and are not only an Saruya Exposition in 1878. after-dinner essential, but also used for securing food. This Kiya speciality store is the only shop in Perfectly presented sashimi needs Japan to focus solely on toothpicks. to be sliced by a top-notch blade and Its main product is called this knife shop boasts more than Kuromojiyouji, and is carefully 200 years in the business. created by skilled crafters. A select

THE FUTURE OF NIHONBASHI Nihonbashi is a perfect slice of old Tokyo, where those who want a glimpse of the city's rich heritage can browse long-standing shops and sample cuisine virtually unchanged from the Edo era. But preserving the old doesn't mean forgoing the new – now under construction, the Nihonbashi East Muromachi Project, covering 11,900 square metres and due to be completed in 2014, is one of the pillars of Nihonbashi's revitalisation. Five separately owned blocks are being incorporated into an urban revitalisation area that makes up the core of the Nihonbashi Revitalisation Project. The concept – ‘Proceeding to Create While Retaining and Reviving’ – is delivered through utilising the area’s historical background and features. Stone pavements and cherry tree-lined streets that lead to sleek, modern offices and ancient shrines make for scenes unlike anywhere else in Japan. Fukutoku Shrine, which has stood watch over the area for more than 1,000 years, will be rejuvenated – its approach cobbled to enhance the old-world feel provided by the centuries-old shops, while Nihonbashi’s former reputation as a theatre and cultural district will be restored with the introduction of a multipurpose hall and cinema complex.

THE INVENTORS These Nihonbashi stores brought us food firsts, from a special type of green tea to seasoned seaweed… Yamamoto Yama A longstanding tea shop that became famous for gyokuro – a type of green tea made from leaves that are grown in the shade. Its slightly sweet taste established it as a favourite during the Edo era, and in later years its popularity spread throughout Japan. Benmatsu This takeaway first opened its doors more than 200 years ago – during a time when preservation methods were limited. At the time, cooking food in soy sauce and sugar was a common way for Japanese homes to keep fish, vegetables and other ingredients fresh and edible. Benmatsu was the first business to sell these cooked items (nimono) for takeaway, making it the first speciality shop dedicated to orizume ryori bento. Stop by and sample its strongly seasoned boxes for a taste of the Edo era. Yoshinosushi Honten Before Tsukiji, there was Nihonbashi Fish Market – a lively trading point that thrived during the Meiji era. It was home to many early sushi stalls, providing some of the freshest fish to hungry traders. Fans of toro nigiri (fatty tuna) might want to stop by and thank Yoshinosushi Honten – where the snack originated. Having started life as a humble street stall, it’s now a cosy restaurant – but you can still enjoy the taste of a hundred years' experience. Yamamoto Noriten This nori (seaweed) speciality shop is perhaps best known for inventing ajitsuke nori (toasted, flavoured seaweed). When Emperor Meiji visited Kyoto, he needed a gift to take, which inspired the creation of this seasoned seaweed dish. With a rich flavour that goes well with white rice, ajitsuke nori has become a popular breakfast food.

Tokyo READY P60 LGBT 22/10/2013 12:32 Page 60

LGBT in Ni-chome, and attracts a diverse crowd of gay patrons with its karaoke and occasional afternoon tango and squaredancing lessons. Prices are reasonable, though women have to pay an extra ¥500 for their first drink. Sunflower Bldg 3F, 2-17-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3354 5050. www.tinyurl. com/TOT kusuo. Shinuku-Sanchome station. 8pm-2am Sun-Thu, until 5am Fri, 7pm-5am Sat.

LGBT

Bourbonne, neat (but not straight) Bar A-Un. Right: Bourbonne. Below: Left, Kusuo, and right, Campy! Bar

Queen of the quarter New to Tokyo’s gay scene? Let drag artist Bourbonne, writer and ‘mama’ at Campy! Bar, walk you through the glamour and clamour of Ni-Chome…

nyone who’s watched TV in Japan will no doubt have seen the many comedic drag queens that populate the airwaves. For the real life ones, you need only visit Tokyo’s Shinjuku Ni-chome, where around 300 LGBT bars and lounges make up what is probably the biggest gay district in the world. These days it’s also a popular hangout for curious (straight) tourists. Straight or gay, head there on a weekend to the main street of Naka-dori and you’ll be treated to some headturning moves from local gogo boys and resplendent queens of the night, dressed to kill. MAMA TIME At Campy!Bar , a mixed bar, opened in 2013 on the main street of Shinjuku Ni-chome, we welcome all orientations. It’s hosted by yours truly, and the floor waitresses are also in drag with styles ranging from

comical to classic. Indeed, the hunky bar staff include models who have graced the covers of several gay magazines. The clientele is not just LGBT but includes gay-friendly straight folk as well. The atmosphere is electric and drinks are reasonable. 2-13-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 6273 2154. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTcampy. Shinjuku-Sanchome station. 3pm-5am daily. SIZE MATTERS Are you one of those people who complains that Japanese gay bars are too small? Or are you looking to enjoy themed parties without all the alcohol? Aisotope Lounge is the place for you. It opened in April 2012 and boasts the largest bar and event space in Ni-chome. The place is split up into two floors, and features themed bars during the week, such as the Queen’s Lounge nights, run by drag queen mamas, which

60 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

happens on Wednesdays and Thursdays. The weekend brings a diverse range of parties, with both gay- and lesbian-only nights once a month. Performers are not limited to the gay scene, and include, for example, world-class electro-pop producer Yasutaka Nakata (who madeHiroshima girl group Perfume). Daini Hayakawaya Bldg B1F, 2-14-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3352 6297. www.aisotope.net. ShinjukuSanchome station. 8pm-4am daily. IF IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR FREDDIE… Loved by the Ni-chome crowd for 36 years, classic establishment Kusuo has passed on ownership to the second generation. Throughout its long history under first owner Macchan, the bar regularly hosted famous guests from Japan and elsewhere, including the late Freddie Mercury. The bar is one of the largest

GIRLS GIRLS GIRLS A state-of-the-art sound system and laser lights create a stimulating atmosphere at Bar A-Un, which requires a ticket system to cope with its low drink prices. Proprietor DJ Juri gives DJ lessons, plays the Taiko drum beautifully and has built up quite a following of both lesbian and bi admirers. Popular club night Kimbianca Groupis held on the second Saturday of every month. The food’s also good, especially the Juri soba, made with the owner’s homemade broth and soba (or buckwheat) noodles, imported directly from Hokkaido. Taraku Bldg 3F, 2-14-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 070 6612 9014. www.a-un. bz. Shinjuku-Sanchome station. 8pm3am Sun-Thu, until 5am Fri and Sat. PIZZA THE ACTION Despite Doop Tokyo’s great decor, the main attraction is the food: 45 pizzas to choose from, with dough made from Italian wheat, left to rise overnight then baked in a real stone oven. Savour your meal in the hip ambience of the mural-covered dining area and enjoy a little banter with the mostly gay staff. There are both acoustic gigs and DJ-led parties on weekends, and you can reserve the VIP room for private bashes. Casa Verde B1F, 2-11-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 6380 5835. www.doop tokyo.com. Shinjuku-Sanchome station. 5pm-3am Mon-Thu, until 5am Fri & Sat and midnight Sun. Closed every third Mon. For full LGBT listings and reviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo FINAL P62-65 ART & CULTURE 22/10/2013 16:33 Page 62

Art & Culture

I would like to create works capable of transcending history

Making light work Tokujin Yoshioka, lit by his work at ‘Crystallize’

The Luminary As his new solo exhibition takes over the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, artist and designer Tokujin Yoshioka talks toChisai Fujita about the nature of art, humanity and why he’s a light obsessive

ravelling down the escalators to see ‘Crystallize’, there is an overwhelming sense of descending into a world of frost, of looking out from inside an iceberg. In the atrium, the Rainbow Church, a large-scale structure made from 500 crystal prisms, seems to capture natural light and intensify it, before bouncing it out to flood the space. In another area, crystals form inside water-filled cabinets, and the air blows about as though the room itself is breathing. It is the biggest testament so far to Yoshioka’s skill in giving form to the intangible – light. He tells us about how it came about. What was your initial reaction when you were approached by the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo to do a solo exhibition? I was first asked in 2009, but it was later, after the Great East Japanese Earthquake in 2011, that

I seriously returned to the idea. I began to feel very strongly that I could help in some way. I wanted to create a type of expression that would prompt people to think about the relationship between humanity and the terror and vitality of nature. At the time, I thought this would be a very good opportunity to do this. Your work has been exhibited at shows such as ‘Second Nature’ (21_21 Design Sight, 2008) and ‘Sensing Nature’ (Mori Art Museum, 2010). How do you feel about public perceptions of art? Like Isamu Noguchi [internationally active Japanese-American sculptor, 1904-1988], I personally do not think about categories like art, design, and so forth, but rather, I create purely what I want to create. I think of the finished work as a form of free expression, which may sometimes be art, and which can be perceived in terms of architecture, design, and a variety of forms. I hope people who see my work will agree with that. I would like to create works capable of transcending history. There is something noble about your work that really draws the viewer in. Where does your sense of beauty come from? What occupies your mind? I create works not merely to be beautiful, but rather to practically imbue them with the vitality of nature, in view of the magnificent power of, and terrifying energy brought forth by, nature. This is

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

because I see beauty and attraction in that which goes beyond the realm of human imagination. I always want to create something that is only possible in a particular place. I had the large atrium space at the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo in mind when I conceived the ‘Rainbow Church’. This work came about through careful study of and experimentation with light. In addition, I have been using transparent material for about 20 years now, because that is the material closest to light, and I want to create something that will go straight to people’s hearts in a form that feels very similar to light. What meaning does ‘light’ hold for you? For humans, light is something both universal and mysterious. It gives us no answer about the relationship between nature and humanity, which we are unable to figure out. That is precisely why I find light so fascinating. TOKUJIN YOSHIOKA CRYSTALLIZE is at the Museum of ContemporaryArt Tokyo until Jan 19 2014. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum.jp. See website for opening times. For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo FINAL P62-65 ART & CULTURE 22/10/2013 16:34 Page 63

Tokyo’s secret art spaces Cosy galleries, renovated schools and exhilarating exhibitions – check out Tokyo’s lesser-known art venues

he vast, silent halls of the National Museum of Western Art and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum are home to some of the most spectacular displays by the biggest names. But to miss out on Tokyo’s smaller, odder outlets would be to do yourself a disservice. Here are five galleries and art houses worth going out of your way for.

VACANT ‘A starting point for human encounters and idea exchange’, or, to the rest of us, an event space that also happens to moonlight as an independent art gallery. Operated by events planners No Idea, Vacant has been hosting everything from book fairs and flea markets to theatre and, of course, a vast range of exhibitions since it opened in 2009. The space remains open as a shop and café between events. 3-20-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. 03 6459 2962. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTVacant. Harajuku station. Opening times vary Tue-Sun.

3331 ARTS CHIYODA The name ‘3331’ is inspired by the old Edo custom ‘Edo Ippon Jime’, which is used to signify the end of a meeting or celebration. The protocol would be to shout ‘Iyo-o!’ and clap your hands three times, followed by another three, and three more, before ending with a single clap (hence 3331). So now you know… On the site of an old junior high school, this multi-level art centre makes full use of its vast premises, hosting exhibitions and workshops inside, and also employing the school roof and gymnasium. Even the former schoolyard has been transformed into a public park. 6-11-14 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. 03 6803 2441. www.tinyurl.com/ TOT3331. Suehirocho station. Noon-7pm Wed-Mon.

gigs. And it doesn’t shy away from the weirder end of the event spectrum. One of Tensai Sansujuku’s recent dance parties, Techno Udon, had revellers twerking to tunes by DJs Puri Puri and Moshi Moshi as

they kneaded udon with their feet. Its next event mixes art and music. 2-5-8 Asakusabashi, Taito. www.tinyurl.com/TOTTensai. Asakusabashi station. Opening times vary. ART CENTER ONGOING Focusing on the unusual and avantgarde, Art Center Ongoing will often invite up-and-coming artists showing at other galleries to display their more offbeat works on its walls. As well as exhibitions, it also hosts live events and seminars that regularly come with the chance to chat to the artists themselves. Don’t forget to collect a complimentary cup of tea at the café (covered by the ¥400 entrance fee), which also does a decent bite to eat. We recommend the ‘Ongoing burger’ and laksa noodle soup. 1-8-7 Kichijoji-Higashi, Musashino. 04 2226 8454. www.ongoing.jp/en/. Kichijoji station. Noon-9pm daily.

ASAKUSABASHI’S TENSAI SANSUJUKU Another mixed-use space, this cosy, laid-back venue hosts a variety of events, including art exhibitions and For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 63

Art & Culture

HAGISO Styling itself as Tokyo’s ‘smallest cultural institution’, Hagiso certainly fits the bill, looking more like a private home than an art space – which is actually how it started out. Spanning two storeys, this renovated house sits in the traditional Yanaka area. Head to the first floor for contemporary works, watch dance performances and live shows in multi-purpose space ‘Hagi Room’, or take a break in the café. 3-10-25 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5832 9808. www.tinyurl.com/TOTHagi. Sendagi and Nippori stations. Noon-9pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon.

Art houses Hagiso. Below: left, Vacant; right, Tensai Sansujuku

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Art & Culture

This season’s essential exhibtions Playful photography, beautiful teacups and postmodern portraiture mash-ups… Prepare yourself for the capital’s must-see art shows this winter

Art & Culture

‘Yasumasa Morimura – Rembrandt Room Revisited’ Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, until Dec 23 This Jin Watanabe-designed building is a fitting home for contemporary treasures – its speciality, in fact. The museum champions new talent as well as Japanese and international contemporary art. Its current exhibition, ‘Rembrandt Room Revisited’, is a reprisal of its 1994 showing of the works of Yasumasa Morimura. He’s famed for his photographicself-portraits, and his pieces cover a vast range of familiar faces, such as Marilyn Monroe and Albert Einstein. 4-7-25, Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 0651. www.haramuseum.or.jp. 11-5pm Tue, Thu-Sun, 11-8pm Wed. ‘150 Years of Modern Japanese Music’ Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, until Dec 23 The Tokyo Opera City gallery is a contemporary arts centre that holds a variety of events and solo shows by emerging artists in its series ‘project N’. Aside from canvases, you’ll see fashion, architecture and design. Its latest show, ‘150 Years of Modern Japanese Music’, features works from the time of the Meiji Restorationin 1868 when, in the spirit of modernisation, the Japanese government introduced Western music into schools. 3-20-2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5353 0756. www.operacity. jp/en. Hatsudai station. 11-7pm Tue-Thu, Sun; 11-8pm Fri & Sat.

Nakayama Shinpei’s ‘The Gondola Song’, 1915 (‘150 Years of Modern Japanese Music’)

Center Atrium, Mori Art Museum. Below left: ‘Rembrant Room Revisited’. Below right: Video installation by Niwa Yoshinori (‘Roppongi Crossing’)

‘Roppongi Crossing 2013: Out of Doubt’ Mori Art Museum, until Jan 13 Billing itself as an art ‘experience’, entry to Mori Art Musuem also gives you access to the bar, café, restaurant and observation deck that share the gallery’s spectacular location on the 52nd and 53rd floors of the Mori Tower. The gallery focuses on modern culture, and brings in some world-class displays. Its triennial show ‘Roppongi Crossing’ is always a good bet. Its latest visitation, ‘Out of Doubt’, is the museum’s first time working with overseas curators, and places an emphasis on international and local artists born in the ’70s and ’80s. It features a variety of work, such as the satirical wood-block painting of Kazama Sachiko, and installations by Suga Kishio, a key member of the Mono-ha conceptual art movement.

Tokyo’s big galleries play host to a full spectrum of styles and stars

64 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato.03 5777 8600. www.mori.art.museum. 10-10pm Wed-Mon, 10-5pm Tue. ‘Ueda Shoji & Jacques Henri Lartigue: Play with Photography’ Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, Nov 23-Jan 26 This museum boasts a large permanent collection and regularly brings in exhibitions by big-name photographers. Round off a visit with a trip to the Images & Technology Gallery in the basement, which presents a multimedia history of optics and tricks. ‘Ueda Shoji & Jacques Henri Lartigue: Play with Photography’ explores the work of the titular photographers, and poses questions about their medium. Yebisu Garden Place, 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro. 03 3280 0099. www.syabi. com. 10-6pm daily (till 8pm Thu & Fri). For more art events and exhibitions, see timeout.com/tokyo

‘Eyes of Sori Yanagi’ and ‘Tea and Beauty –Soetsu Yanagi and the Way of Tea’ Japan Folk Crafts Museum This museum, founded in 1936 by Yanagi Soetsu, spotlights mingei (arts of the people). Yanagi’s criteria for inclusion in the permanent collection was that objects should be made anonymously, by hand, and in large quantities. Its current show, ‘Eyes of Sori Yanagi’, is an exhibition of masks, textiles and ceramics collected by industrial designer Munemichi Yanagi, who died in 2011. Later this year, visitors can catch ‘Tea and Beauty’ which looks at how Yanagi considered tea and its traditions. 4-3-33 Komaba, Meguro. 03 3467 4527. www.mingeikan.or.jp. ‘Eyes of Sori Yanagi’, until Nov 21. ‘Tea andBeauty’, Jan 10-Mar 23. 10am-5pm Tue-Sun.

Three to see JOSEF KOUDELKA RETROSPECTIVE Overview of the work of photographer Josef Koudelka, from the ’50s to today. 03 5777 8600. www.momat.go.jp. Nov 6-Jan 13. EVANGELION AND JAPANESE SWORDS Collection of anime-inspired swords by up-and-coming swordsmiths. 03 3833 4191. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTUeno. Nov 23-Dec 23. UKIYO-E: A JOURNEY THROUGH THE FLOATING WORLD Exhibition of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints) from around the world. 03 3626 9974. www.edo-tokyomuseum.or.jp. Jan 2-Mar 2.

‘REMBRANDT ROOM REVISITED IMAGE: © YASUMASA MORIMURA; ‘ROPPONGI CROSSING’ VIDEO IMAGE: COURTESY OF AI KOWADA GALLERY; ‘150 YEAR S OF MODERN JAPANESE MUSIC IMAGE: COURTESY OF ARCHIVES OF MODERN JAPANESE MUSIC, MEIJI GAKUIN UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

ver the visual cacophony, Tokyo’s art scene is vibrant and diverse. In any given month the big galleries play host to a full spectrum of styles and stars, from the domestic avant-garde to the international art-historical. Don’t miss out on this season’s round of exhibitions. Here are the five best shows that focus on Japanese art – from November to January –that you should be picturing for your diary…

Noh barriers

Tableau manners A performer in the noh play ‘Makiginu’

Female noh performer Ryoko Aoki on how she is bringing the art form into the 21st century

A traditional noh performance can be captivating – but it’s not for the uninitiated. Time Out London’s Dance editor, Lyndsey Winship, offers a formal introduction

MAIN IMAGE: IMAGE: RYOKO NOH "MAKIGINU" RYOKO AOKI AOKI

It’s seriously old Developed in the 14th century, noh is one of the world’s oldest performing arts. It’s a form of music theatre, but we’re not talking show tunes here. Combining drama, dance, music, poetry and chant, the actors play out stories of gods, warriors, demons and ghosts, most of which have been performed in exactly the same way for centuries. A traditional performance can last the whole day, with five plays interspersed with comic interludes. Epic. It might leave you stumped Noh is an esoteric and symbolic form. It’s an ultra stylised art that’s highly choreographed even when there’s minimal action; every footstep is prescribed. There’s no going offpiste with this one. Noh aesthetics have been described as: abstraction, refinement and suggestion. Which, for those who haven’t brushed up beforehand, may well add up to not having a clue what’s going on. Less is more The noh stage is sparse, but the costumes are extravagant and oversized. Performers wear masks to define their characters, but these are often expressionless – the

wearer tilts it so that the play of light and shadow conveys the emotion. It’s a man’s, man’s, man’s world All the roles are traditionally played by men, even the female parts, and have been passed down from father to son for generations. Those family troupes all follow the styles of the five noh schools. Some women do now train in noh, but few perform (one of the exceptions is Ryoki Aoki, interviewed right). Bertolt Brecht was a fan Noh’s influence has spread beyond its native Japan, touching the work of Bertolt Brecht, Peter Brook, Benjamin Britten, David Byrne, Ezra Pound and Stockhausen among others. It has something in common with olives… Noh has been designated an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ by Unesco, as has tango, Croatian lacemaking and the Mediterranean diet. And it lasts about as long as your average Spanish lunch. For more dance and performing arts, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Where to see noh Here are three Tokyo venues to see the ancient style in action… NATIONAL NOH THEATRE Noh performances are normally staged here four or five times a month. A one-page explanation of the story in English is available. 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya. 03 3423 1331. www.ntj.jac.go.jp/ english. Sendagaya and Kokuritsukyogijo stations. KANZE NOHGAKUDO For regular performances, they sell ‘happy hour’ tickets that enable you to see the last part of three noh plays. 1-16-4, Shoto, Shibuya-ku. 03 3469 5241. www.tinyurl.com/TOTKanze. Shibuya station. CERULEAN TOWER NOH THEATRE The basement of this hotel hosts both professional and amateur noh shows, albeit without any kind of English translation. 26-1 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya. 03 34 4777 6412. www.ceruleantower.com. Shibuya station.

Is that how your project ‘Noh x Contemporary Music’ came about? I started this project in Tokyo in 2010, with support from the Minato Prefecture Grant for Culture, with the aim of commissioning young international composers from Western Europe and Japan to write new pieces for noh theatre. So far, I’ve premiered 15 pieces, using newly written music, in this series. What are some of the challenges you’ve faced during this project? Noh singing differs from Western musical styles in that performers are not required to sing a specific pitch. This makes it difficult to transcribe using Western notation. However, despite this, I am sure that we can develop a new art by combining noh with contemporary music. www.ryokoaoki.net/e

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Art & Culture

Know your noh?

What challenges have you faced in your noh career so far? Firstly, I was not born into a noh family – I only discovered it as a teenager. Then when I decided to specialise in noh plays at the Tokyo National University of the Arts, the five other students on my course were all men, four of whom came from noh families. This was when I began to notice the challenges of my situation. I wanted to create a new frontier – I believed art should develop based on earlier traditions.

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Music Meet the new king of J-pop

Digital love Nakata (right), in his Capsule incarnation with singer Toshiko Koshijima

If you don’t know it already, Yasutaka Nakata is a name to remember. With his third smash of 2013 in the bag, Tokyo’s hottest producer is set to take over the world. Ian Martin introduces the man and his music

Music

asutaka Nakata is the man behind two of the biggest moments in Japanese pop this year – and that’s no mean feat. The first: electro-idol girl trio Perfume’s ‘Level3’. The second: Gaga-esque fashion icon Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s ‘Nanda Collection’. These albums – masterminded by the 33-year-old powerhouse producer – both soared to the top of the Japanese album charts, selling more than 100,000 copies in their first weeks, and serving to push back the boundaries of what mainstream pop in Japan can be. The emergence of ‘Caps Lock’, then, the latest album by Nakata’s own project Capsule, means that in 2013 alone the music mastermind has dropped a mother lode of pop riches. Finding their feet in the quiet, venerable town of Kanazawa in the late ’90s, Capsule – an electronica group compromising Nakata and female vocalist Toshiko Koshijima – arrived in Tokyo just in time to surf the tail end of the ‘Shibuya-kei’ art-pop wave. They could easily have remained a fashionable but under-selling duo on the border between indie cred and mainstream acceptance, had Nakata not been approached to produce songs for a young trio from Hiroshima. That group was the aforementioned technopop phenomenon Perfume – and the rest is history. By introducing electro Daft Punk-influenced sounds, Nakata made ‘idol music’ – the upbeat, manufactured pop that’s so wildly popular across Japan – cool for the first time, and swiftly became Japan’s hottest producer. If there’s one thing Nakata can do, it’s draw people in. He tells Time Out Tokyo, ‘The trend these days [in music] is to get people’s attention within three or five, or even one second’ – something he does effortlessly with his Perfume and Kyary Pamyu Pamyu tracks. It’s something, though, that he seeks to move away from with the most recent Capsule record. With ‘Caps Lock’, he says, ‘I wanted to do something with more density in the sound, and you can only really experience that density if you listen to it in full.’ In this sense, ‘Caps Lock’ is also a very important album for Nakata. Critics often pick up on his habit of ‘brick-walling’ the mastering, going for impact over subtlety. While this makes for a powerful club experience, it doesn’t necessarily

In 2013 alone the music mastermind has dropped a mother lode of pop riches

make for good at-home listening, but it’s clear that ‘Caps Lock’ is an album designed to be savoured in the lounge rather than in a club. Vocalist Toshiko Koshijima, Nakata’s other half in the duo, has had an ambiguous role in the group from the start. For large parts of 2008’s ‘More! More! More!’ and 2010’s ‘Player’, Nakata replaced her with generic vocals from a sample library, and where she does appear, Nakata is apt to treat her voice as a tool to be manipulated. In ‘Caps Lock’, freed from any requirement to perform live, Koshijima’s voice is chopped up, pitch-shifted and generally twisted beyond recognition, to the point where on tracks like ‘Control’ and ‘Shift’ she might as well be a Vocaloid voice synthesizer. On every track she

66 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

appears on, Nakata finds a different way to treat her vocals, continually blurring the boundaries between organic and synthesized sounds. But despite her chameleon-like role, Koshijima is not disposable – Nakata clearly considers her crucial to Capsule’s identity, and his own creative confidence. ‘Whatever I want to do at a particular moment, she’ll say, “Let’s do it”,’ he told The Japan Times recently. That encouragement is clearly working – because if one thing is certain, it’s that Yasutaka Nakata is doing a whole lot right now. CAPS LOCK is available on iTunes. For gigs, festivals and more music interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Five more Japanese acts you need to know about

SLEEVE NOTES

Introducing the Japanese-folk-soul-funk supernova Aragehonji performances’. It’s also benefited from the engineering talents of Naoyuki Uchida, whose credits include some of Japan’s top dub and reggae bands such as Little Tempo and Dry & Heavy. It could also be to do with the album’s ‘concepts’ which, according to lead singer Masafumi Saito, are ‘death’ and ‘rebirth’.

With Japan’s music scene so fertile, there’s never been a better time to get acquainted with it RIP SLYME This outfit (below) of four MCs and one DJ weave their own unique, almost old-school style that’s most akin with The Pharcyde, De La Soul and the Beastie Boys. Their sound is characterised by colourful raps laid over sing-song melodies and tonguein-cheek instrumentation. Rip Slyme are a driving force behind the emergence of hip-hop as a musical genre in its own right in Japan.

SAKANACTION With lyrics that take influence from Japanese literature, Sakanaction approach club music through the medium of rock, dabbling in J-pop, electronica and New Wave along the

PERFUME Girl group with a futuristic techno pop sound that manages to be cute yet cool. Perfume broke through in 2007 with their hit ‘Polyrhythm’. The girls’ crisp, robot-doll dance routines bring their material to life – material that is penned by award-winning producer Yasutaka Nakata (see opposite). Huge in Japan, the group have begun to gain popularity in the UK: their first concert there in 2012 sold out in minutes. Catch up now before they take over the world.

Riding the wave of Japan’s current ‘roots revival’, Tokyo’s Aragehonji fuses Japanese folk, soul and funk. Certainly sounds different. How long have they been doing this? Since 2007 – by 2010, they were performing at the Fuji Rock Festival. Early reviews foretell another career high soon, with their forthcoming second album, ‘Takarakaze’. So what’s the new winning formula? For starters, they’ve tried their best to reproduce ‘the sense of fulfilment achieved through their live

Heavy stuff. Yes, they’re deep like that. Apparently, while playing live, their aim is ‘to create moments in which the people present in that space – the band and our audience – can share freedom, even if it’s just for one moment.’ That sounds alternative. It’s not: this ‘yearning for freedom’ is a very Japanese concept, expressed throughout centuries of ritual. When can we get some audioliberty of our own then? ‘Takarakaze’ is out on November 13, available at www.aragehonzi.com. Interview: Hajime Oishi

KYARY PAMYU PAMYU Kiriko Takemura, as she is more likely known to her mum, is firmly based in the electro pop/techno genre, but combines it with a cutesy voice and some eclectic influences that include traditional Japanese folk song and military marches. The ‘J-Pop Princess’ has a sense of style to rival Lady Gaga –although her music feels more like the real thing. Words: aokinoko For all these albums, head to Tower Records. 1-22-14 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 3496 3661. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTtower. 10am-11pm daily.

Perfume counter Ayaka Nishiwaki, Yuka Kashino and Ayano Omoto bring the cute

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Music

EGO-WRAPPIN’ A male/female duo from Osaka who found fame in 2000 with the bittersweet hit ‘Shikisai no Blues’ (English title: ‘Midnight Déjà vu’). Primarily an experimental jazz band, Ego-Wrappin’ also borrow from pre-war genres such as Showa-era popular music and cabaret, along with ska and rock, all bound together by Yoshie Nakano’s heartbreaking voice and thought-provoking lyrics. Their eighth album, ‘Steal a Person’s Heart’, is out now.

way. Their name comes from a combination of ‘sakana’ (‘fish’) and ‘action’ – representing their desire to act quickly to changes in the music business, like fish in water. They broke their own record this year for the most copies of a record sold in the first week with the release of their sixth album, ‘Sanaction’ (83,000). See them live if you can.

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Nightlife

So many bars… More than 200, in fact! Two to try are Carrot (right) and Hamon-d (below)

Bar bullion Welcome to Golden-gai, irresistible labyrinth of micro drinking dens. Over to your guide, Kyuich Tanikawa…

erched on a corner of Shinjuku’s Kabuki-cho, the largest entertainment district in Asia, lies Golden-gai: a ramshackle quarter made up of a handful of streets lined with more than 200 tiny drinking dens. Its storied past reaches back to the black markets of the postwar period. In the ’60s, authors and journalists conspired here, and it also drew a creative crowd of actors, editors and theatre types. Because of this, Golden-gai is often considered the birthplace of Japanese counter- and sub-culture, and you’ll find a healthy crosssection of alternative society still gathering here today. Recently, Golden-gai has become popular with foreign tourists, and, unfortunately, this has given rise to new ways of ripping them off. The most common of these is the

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practice of extortionate charging before you’ve even ordered anything. Some restaurants charge customers ¥300 to ¥1,000 just for sitting down, so always check with the establishment if they have such a policy when entering. Bear that in mind, and you’ll love diving in to the world of Golden-gai –and let’s just hope recent rumours that the area is to be ‘scaled back’ ahead of the 2020 Olympics prove ill-founded.

Five great places to squeeze in to for a drink CARROT A drink-at-the-counter bar that holds a maximum of six people. Located near the town’s entrance, its open door allows you to suss out the vibe before walking in. Its friendly

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Bali

atmosphere and Japanese rock soundtrack make great talking points with the strangers you may find yourself clinking glasses with. 1-1-6, Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 8pm-5am daily. Cover charge ¥300.

BAR PLASTIC MODEL Entering this bar, which is decked out with records and books from the ’80s and ’90s, is to step back into the two most unfashionable decades in history. But curiousity will soon win you over: the counter is crammed with all manner of Japanese singles and albums from all genres, including rock and techno-punk, and you can request any of these to be played. An essential destination if you’re interested in the country’s music or sub-culture –or just fancy yourself as a bit of a DJ. Ground floor, 1-1-10, Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 5273 8441. 8pm-5am daily, Sun 8pm-2am. Cover charge ¥700. DONGARA GASHAN Golden-gai is full of bars, but has only a sparse selection of eateries. At Dongara Gashan, you can refuel on more than 50 types of fried skewer For more bars and club reviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

Nightlife

BALI New to the scene, Bali opened in April 2013. Inside, a tropical atmosphere fills the air, a rare experience in Golden-gai. As the name suggests, it offers beers from Bali along with mojitos and original tropical cocktails. If your mingling skills are a little rusty, there’s standing-room-only space near the entrance. 1-1-7, Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 8pm-5am daily. Sun 1-8pm (café), 8pm-5am. Cover charge ¥800.

dishes, featuring the likes of asparagus, bacon and salmon and udon dishes. Skewers start at ¥100 – try the fried ice cream for a novel taste experience. What’s more, the bar is unusually spacious, so you may find yourself hanging around. 1-1-9, Kabukicho, Shinjuku. 03 3207 3718. 5pm-2pm daily, 5pm-2am Sun. No cover charge. HAMON-D Seating six people, Hamon-d is the perfect venue for that traditional, get-to-know-everyone Golden-gai experience. The bar is famed for its range of Japanese spirits and whiskies, which are all soaked up a treat by the owner’s food. In fact, chatting with her as you sample her cooking feels like visiting your gran. There’s additional seating on the second floor as well. 1-1-8, Kabukicho, Shinjuku. Open 8pm-5am Mon-Sat. Closed Sun & public hols. Cover charge ¥1,000.

Golden rules DO… Eat before you go You’ll struggle to find eateries in the area –and you don’t want to be that embarrassing legless tourist. Eating is not cheating in this case. Be polite Give your seat up for a new visitor once a place gets packed. There is no reason to stick to one bar –there are more than 200 out there to try. DON’T… Film inside shops Live-action filming is a big no-no. It’s not worth getting thrown out for. Hold your stag do there Places here really are on the small side; most bars only have space for four or so people (yes, you read that right).

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Nightlife ?????????? ??????????????????? ?????????

Green partyTokyo clubbers let loose. Green party Tokyo Left: Zero.letCenter: clubbers loose. Double Tokyo. Right: Left: Zero. Right: Air. Air. Below: Womb Below: Womb

Turbo Tokyo! Ready to party? Here’s the lowdown on the highest-octane clubs in the metropolis

Nightlife

onsidering the size of the city, Tokyo’s club scene remains relatively modest. In recent years, the big clubs of the ’90s have all been under pressure due to the strict regulations imposed under the ‘fueiho’ law (which governs the adult-entertainment business and restricts dancing). This has led to complaints that the scene is not as exciting as it once was.

However, world-class DJs still perform here every weekend and various new clubs have opened this year. First-time partiers: take photo ID (even if you’re over 25) – the over20 rule is fervently adhered to by door hosts. Read on for the top five places you should put your dancing trousers on for, and when… AIR Large but intimate, stylish but never snooty, Air draws big-name international DJs, as well as the best local talent. Hungry after all that shape-throwing? Pop upstairs for some decent late-night food at Frames café. Recommended regular night: Friday is usually the most popular night, but Saturdays and Tuesdays are also pretty banging. Expect the finest electro, techno and house. Hikawa Bldg B1F-B2F, 2-11 Sarugaku, Shibuya. 03 5784 3386. www.air-tokyo.com. Shibuya and Daikanyama stations. 10pm-5am Mon, Thur-Sat. Admission ¥2,500 (incl one drink). WOMB Not only is it a top-flight club with a vast dancefloor, great lighting and a super-bass sound system, Womb is also home – or so it claims – to Asia’s largest mirror ball. The club’s house-, techno- and drum ’n’ bass-packed schedule is crammed with foreign names, with local hero DJ Aki making regular appearances behind the decks. Recommended regular night: Kats’! night for a mixed musical bag, held biweekly on Friday or Saturday. See @katstokyo for updates. 2-16 Maruyama, Shibuya. Shibuya station. 03 5459 0039. www.womb.co.jp. 10pm-5am Thu-Sat, but may vary. Admission ¥2,000-¥4,000.

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LIQUIDROOM Described as ‘legendary’ by the international media about once every three seconds, Liquidroom started life as a scruffy venue for gigs and club nights in Shinjuku’s seedy Kabukicho district. Having moved to upmarket Ebisu, it now offers more straight-up live events. A long room with seating at the back, it’s a great place to catch a show. Recommended regular night: No regular nights yet, so expect a surprise on every visit. 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5464 0800. www.liquidroom.net. Ebisu station. 6pm-11.30pm/12am daily. Admission varies. SOUND MUSEUM VISION For ages it seemed that Tokyo wouldn’t be getting any new clubs larger than a shoebox. That all changed in late 2011, with the opening of this 1,500-capacity space. Sound Museum Vision spreads the action across four rooms, the largest of which, Gaia, has a sound system loud enough to make your teeth rattle. Regular club nights include the Classics (hip hop), Alien Radio (techno) and Girls Festival, in which all female guests get in for free.

Recommended regular night: Rolling Thunder, held once every two months, for a mighty musical mix. 2-10-7 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 5728 2824. www.vision-tokyo.com. Shibuya Station. 10pm-6am daily. Admission ¥3,000-¥4,000.

New clubs in 2013 ZERO The recent closure of popular Aoyama club Loop wasn’t the end: some of the venue’s staff ganged up and opened a new space, right next door to the old one. Zero promises to take things ‘back to basics’, with an analogue sound system and DJ line-up of veteran spinners such as DJ Nori and Wada. Recommended regular night: None as yet. B1F, 2-9-13 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 3797 9933. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTzero. Shibuya station. Café 11.30am-10pm daily, bar/club 10pm-5am daily. Irregular hols. Admission: ¥1,500-¥2,500. DOUBLE TOKYO The club – sorry, ‘sound space’ – offers a decidedly less underground experience than Eleven (its predecessor on this site) complete with VIP seating, private rooms and an EDM-centric music policy. Recommended regular night: Friday Freaks is an all mixed EDM/ Top 40 night on the main floor, with hip hop and R&B on the lounge floor – every Friday. B1F, 1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato. 03 6434 5544. www.doubletokyo. com Roppongi station. 9pm-5am. For more club nights and venues, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Film Language options English-speakers are well catered for in Japan’s alternative cinema scene. Take some consummate direction from Alex Dudok de Wit on the best arthouse venues

Beyond Kurosawa Want to delve a little deeper into Japanese cinema than ‘Seven Samurai’? Start here… ‘A Page of Madness’ (‘Kurutta ippêji’) by Teinosuke Kinugasa, 1926 Eerie set design, maddeningly fast editing and a touch of German expressionism bring this hallucinatory tale of mental decline to life. The first masterpiece of Japanese cinema. ‘Profound Desires of the Gods’

Film

The Big Meowski Shibuya’s Uplink is a cinephile’s paradise

ead anything by Donald Richie, the late critic responsible for introducing Japanese cinema to the West, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the country stopped making good films around 1975. Richie had little time for contemporary directors, opining that the advent of TV had all but killed off innovation in Japan’s film industry. While this view unfairly downplays the rise of indie filmmaking in the ’90s, from which sprang the likes of Takeshi Kitano and Takashi Miike, the stagnation of once-mighty studios today certainly suggests an industry past its prime. A handful of venues scattered across Tokyo are doing their best to dispel this notion. Leading the fight is Uplink, whose 40-seater cinema (billed as the smallest in Japan) hosts eclectic cultural events and arthouse screenings such as J-rock gigs and workshops for budding filmmakers. Its yearly Uplink Factory Selection festival is aimed at the expat looking to get stuck into Japan’s contemporary cinema – a selection of films, many unavailable on DVD, are screened with English subtitles. Around the corner is the Image Forum, bastion of Tokyo’s avant-garde screen culture, which specialises in experimental and animated films (some of Richie’s rare shorts have even been shown here). Also worth a

‘Profound Desires of the Gods’ (‘Kamigami no fukaki yokubo’) by Shohei Imamura, 1968 A strait-laced civil engineer heads to the Okinawan archipelago on business and falls in with a strange crowd of local shamans. A sort of Japanese ‘The Wicker Man’.

visit, for international indie films, is Cinema Rise – where foreign students (with ID) enjoy a discount. If Shibuya is the hub of cutting-edge Japanese cinema, the National Film Center in Kyobashi is the industry’s old custodian. This is where film fans flock to see retrospectives from all eras (check ahead for subtitles). From here it’s a hop to Yurakucho Asahi Hall, home of the wonderful Tokyo Filmex festival (NovDec), where the emphasis is on contemporary East Asian cinema in general (all subtitled in English). For the adventurous, a ride on the Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Kichijoji is a must. At almost every stop there is an offbeat little cinema –Laputa in

FUMIE SUZUKI/TIME OUT

Uplink’s auditorium is the smallest in Japan

Asagaya and Theater Pole-Pole in Higashi-Nakano are our favourites. And if you still need convincing, ride the train on to Mitaka, where the everpopular Ghibli Museum is a reminder that, as far as animation goes, Japanese cinema still leads the world. Uplink, 2F, 37-18 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya. www.uplink.co.jp. Theatre Image Forum, 2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 5766 0114. Cinema Rise: 13-17 Udagawacho, Shibuya. www.cinemarise.com. National Film Center: 3-7-6 Kyobashi, Chuo. www.momat.go.jp/english/nfc. Yurakucho Asahi Hall: 11F Yurakucho Mullion, 2-5-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda. www.filmex.net/2013. For upcoming events and showtimes see timeout.com/tokyo

‘Minamata’ (‘Minamata: kanjasan to sono sekai’) by Noriaki Tsuchimoto, 1971 In the ’50s, toxic wastewater pumped into the Minamata sea by a chemical factory led to thousands of cases of horrific mercury poisoning. This guerrilla documentary follows the victims’ quest for compensation. ‘Shara’ by Naomi Kawase, 2003 The films of Japan’s foremost female director throb with a quiet spirituality. It’s in this movie, about a family’s reaction to the disappearance of their son, that her Buddhist worldview is most apparent. Contemporary Japanese cinema at its most subtle. ‘Mind Game’ (‘Maindo geemu’) by Masaaki Yuasa, 2004 This ambitious animated feature came out of nowhere in 2004, making a star of director Masaaki Yuasa. The plot is typical gangster anime fare, but the rough aesthetic and random fusion of animation styles are completely fresh.

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Travel & Hotels Travel & Hotels Get out of town Get out of town

Full board Piste and off-piste: Annupuri Lodge (below), Shiki (bottom left) and Del Sole Full board Piste and off-piste: (bottom right) Annupuri Lodge (below), Shiki (bottom left) and Del Sole (bottom right)

Niseko Niseko

Travel Travel & Hotels & Hotels

A short flight from Tokyo lies the snowy paradise of Niseko, where A short flight hot from Tokyo lies cold slopes, springs andthe a snowy paradise of Niseko, where Michelin star (even out here) await. cold slopes, hotexplores springs and a Yuriko Yamada Michelin star (even out here) await. Yuriko Yamada explores

The tradition on the mountain is The tradition on to then spa, theski, mountain is then eat – in to ski, then spa, thateat order then – in that order

72 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Hiromi. After learning the thin-crust style of pizza making in Ischia, Naples, Sugimoto returned to the Japan to open Hiromi. After learning thin-crust this restaurant. stylelittle of pizza making inSpecialties Ischia, Naples, include pizza romana, crispyto open Sugimoto returned to Japan calamari and some very nice wines. this little restaurant. Specialties Sugimoto’s rivalscrispy Tokyo’s best, include pizzapizza romana, so phoneand ahead to guarantee calamari some very nice wines. yourself onepizza of therivals 15 seats. Sugimoto’s Tokyo’s best, a comfy, mid-range stay, you’ll soFor phone ahead to guarantee do well atone Annupuri across yourself of the Lodge, 15 seats. from Sole. Located instay, beautiful ForDel a comfy, mid-range you’ll Annupuri Village, itsLodge, breakfasts are do well at Annupuri across hearty and the Located knowledgeable staff from Del Sole. in beautiful speak English. You use the open Annupuri Village, itscan breakfasts are kitchen to prepare other mealsstaff hearty and the knowledgeable Its on-site skithe during the day, and its ski speak English. You canon-site use open school, Niseko Winterlab, offers kitchen to prepare other meals guidance on the slopes. during theand day,lessons and its on-site ski For the ultimate in splendour, school, Niseko Winterlab, offers splash outand at Shiki, a 68-apartment guidance lessons on the slopes. hotel-style condominium in the heart For the ultimate in splendour, of Hirafu with numerous-size suites splash out at Shiki, a 68-apartment , and five premium penthouse units. hotel-style condominium in the heart Acclaimed chef Kamimura’s in to numerous-size theYuichi deliciously upscale of addition Hirafu with suites Michelin-starred restaurant Niseko & Deli. and fiveSupermarket premiumFrench penthouse units. (0136 21 2288, www.kamimuraAcclaimed chef Yuichi Kamimura’s niseko.com) is part of the complex, Michelin-starred French restaurant serving Hokkaido wagyu beef sirloin (0136 21 2288, www.kamimuraand grilled local fish.ofReservations niseko.com) is part the complex, naturally, are essential. serving Hokkaido wagyu beef sirloin and grilled local fish. Reservations naturally, are essential.

Places to stay Places to stay KANRONOMORI ONSEN Rooms from ¥10,000 per night 415 Niseko, Niseko-cho, KANRONOMORI ONSEN Abuta-gun, Hokkaido Rooms from ¥10,000 per night 0136 58Niseko-cho, 3800 415 Niseko, www.kanronomori.com Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 0136 58 3800 ANNUPURI LODGE www.kanronomori.com AND NISEKO WINTERLAB Rooms from ¥6,615 per person ANNUPURI LODGE 482-2 Niseko,WINTERLAB Aza Niseko, AND NISEKO Abuta-gun, Hokkaido Rooms from ¥6,615 per person 1851Aza 6663 482-2090 Niseko, Niseko, www.annupurilodge.com Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 0136 58 3280 090 1851 6663 SHIKI www.annupurilodge.com From ¥20,000 per one-bed apartment 190-4 Aza Yamada, SHIKIKutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido. From ¥20,000 per one-bed apartment 21 4191 190-4 Aza0136 Yamada, Kutchan-cho, www.shikiniseko.com Abuta-gun, Hokkaido. 0136 21 4191 www.shikiniseko.com For more travel tips and destinations, see timeout.com/tokyo For more travel tips and destinations, see timeout.com/tokyo

MAIN IMAGE: MAIN GLEN IMAGE: CLAYDON GLENPHOTOGRAPHY CLAYDON PHOTOGRAPHY

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his year is looking to be a to go around: Niseko United resort breakout year for Niseko, the has four interconnected areas on the little town Hokkaido same mountain (Annupuri, his year is in looking to bethat a has to go around: Niseko UnitedNiseko resort slowlybreakout but surely been Village, and Hanazono) year fortransforming Niseko, the has fourHirafu interconnected areaswith on the itself little into the snow capital ofthat Asia. 48km of groomed trails andNiseko town in Hokkaido has same mountain (Annupuri, The attraction is,been of course, its abundant backcountry to conquer. slowly but surely transforming Village, Hirafu and Hanazono) with annual flakefall of 15 metres, The of tradition on trails the mountain is to itself into the snow capital of Asia. 48km groomed and courtesy of yearly snowstorms follow yourbackcountry day skiing with an onsen – The attraction is, of course, its abundant to conquer. drifting across from which a hot bath thenmountain a meal, in annual flakefall of 15Siberia, metres, Thespring tradition on– the is to result in itofbeing one of the whitest that order: ‘trifecta’ ritualan that’s a– courtesy yearly snowstorms follow your a day skiing with onsen places earth. ButSiberia, which joy to uphold. Forin driftingon across from a hot spring bath – then a meal, as wellinas stage two, result it crunchy being one of the whitest that order: a ‘trifecta’ ritualtry that’s a powder, the resort Kanronomori Onsen places on earth. But joy to uphold. For offers lift near as welldaily as crunchy stageAnnupuri, two, try a passes won’t series of indoor and powder,that the resort Kanronomori Onsen eat intodaily yourlift aprèsoutdoor hot baths offers near Annupuri, a ski budget (day pass, and a sauna passes that won’t series of indoor and ¥5,200); easy attached to a hotel eat into your aprèsoutdoor hot baths access thanks that ski budget (dayto pass, and aoverlooks sauna the regular flights edge of the ¥5,200); easyfrom attached tonational a hotel Tokyo Sapporo; park. After yourthe dip, accesstothanks to that overlooks superb restaurants; ease your with regular flights from edge of thelimbs national abundant hot springs and a wide an Ashifumi massage or anyour dip, Tokyo to Sapporo; park. After variety lodging options, from aromatherapy session – orlimbs if youwith superbof restaurants; ease your backpacker hostels luxury can’t afford that, the automatic abundant hot springstoand a wide an Ashifumi massage or an penthouses. massage chairs in the lobby variety of lodging options, from aromatherapy session – or ifare you You’ll find hostels all manner of people surprisingly backpacker to luxury can’t afford effective. that, the automatic arriving at these hallowed slopes, Del Solechairs (0136 penthouses. massage in58 the3535, lobby are whether by sleek privateofjets or in www.pizza-delsole.com), a brickYou’ll find all manner people surprisingly effective. decked-out campervans. oven in Annupuri Village, is arriving at these hallowedLuckily slopes, Delpizzeria Sole (0136 58 3535, there’s of the dry, jets fluffyorstuff run by Kenji Sugimoto andahis wife, whetherplenty by sleek private in www.pizza-delsole.com), brickdecked-out campervans. Luckily oven pizzeria in Annupuri Village, is there’s plenty the dry, fluffy stuff run by Kenji Sugimoto and his wife, 72 For your full,ofup-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P72-75 TRAVEL & HOTELS 22/10/2013 15:33 Page 73

The life aquatic An antedote for winter chill is closer than you think, muses Amanda Taylor, as she enjoys a tour of the muscle-melting hot springs just an hour away by bullet train from the big smoke

Hot springs in winter are a quintessential part of the Japanese experience the Super View Odoriko train from Shinjuku (with specially designed windows offering a perfect vista) for a longer, but more picturesque ride. Book into one of Atami’s ryokan, which are usually complete with a private outdoor bath, and you can take in the view of the ocean and mountains at sunset. They can be pricey but they (and you) are worth it. Nothing compares to soaking outside, the hot water melting your muscles while you breathe in the refreshing chill of the winter air. Furuya Ryokan (approx ¥50,000¥80,000 for two people) wows guests with large, clean rooms that are beautifully Japanese in design. Suites are closed off by sliding paper-screen doors, the tatami flooring giving off a woody scent and the beds all traditional futons. The hot springs of its onsen flow straight

from the source, undiluted, leaving your skin tingling with all the naturally occurring minerals. For a cheaper option, try K’s House Ito Onsen (from ¥3,900 per person). This ryokan-style hostel is in Ito, about half an hour away from Atami by train. It has the beautiful ryokan aesthetic plus an indoor onsen, but costs less than half the price. Take a cable car up Mount Omuro for a spectacular view of Ito and Fuji. Shuzenji, in central Izu, is about two hours away from Tokyo station

Spring cleaning Let the onsen experience cleanse body and soul

by bullet train, and is named after the temple it surrounds. Here you can take a footbath in Izu’s oldest onsen, or stroll among willowy bamboo trees. Hot springs in winter are a quintessential part of the Japanese experience, and Izu is just the place to experience their rejuvenating power, before heading back to the city whirl. Furuya Ryokan: 5-24 Higashi Kaigan, Atami, Shizuoka. 0557 81 0001. www.atami-furuya.co.jp. K’s House Ito Onsen: 12-13 Higashimatsubara, Ito, Shizuoka. 0557 35 9444. www.kshouse.jp/ito-e. For more ideas for short breaks, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 73

Travel & Hotels

erhaps you’ve never heard about Japan’s Izu Peninsula. As an international destination, it’s somewhat hidden in the shadow of Tokyo’s bright neon lights. That’s a shame, as Izu is the tranquil yin to Tokyo’s frantic yang. Here you’ll find cosy retreats from the cold, and breathtaking views of sparkling oceans and snow-capped Mount Fuji. The peninsula is only an hour west of Japan’s capital by bullet train, but it’s best to stay the night –although you’ll likely find yourself stretching that out to two or three, because after you slip into the steaming caress of Izu’s famous onsenall you’ll want to do is blissfully doze off. In fact, Atami is widely known in Japan as one of the top onsen spots. Besides, you simply have to stay for dinner. Traditional Japanese ryokan (inns) are all over Izu, and they pride themselves on serving delectable and gorgeously presented meals, which in Izu means some of the freshest, mostflavourful sashimi in the country, direct from the sea. You can also sample seasonal grilled or steamed fish dishes, lobster, crab and a whole array of seafood. Atami is under an hour away from Tokyo station by bullet train, or take

Tokyo READY P72-75 TRAVEL & HOTELS 22/10/2013 15:34 Page 74

Travel & Hotels

Find your omotenashi

Time Out’s tips for the best Tokyo hotels –whatever your style, whatever your budget switched off at midnight each night. 2-13-21 Shitaya, Taito. 03 6458 1686.www.backpackersjapan.co. jp/english.

Travel & Hotels

Andon Ryokan A high-end hostel, Andon was designed by veteran architect Masayuki Irie: the interior incorporates traditional Japanese features. Extra perks include a rootop terrace and a shared Jacuzzi. On the down side, the rooms are tiny and it’s located in one of the least exciting corners of eastern Tokyo. Prices start at ¥6,300 for a single, and rooms come with WiFi, a TV and DVD player. 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi, Taito. 03 3873 8611. www.andon.co.jp.

Got a light? Shared rooms here come with ensuite shower

Budget

Five affordable places to lay your city-weary head Toco Tokyo Heritage Hostel Run by a bunch of East Tokyo hipsters, this converted 1920s townhouse offers the sense of staying in a traditional Japanese home at hostel prices. The cosy, smoke-free drinking den is one of the hostel’s biggest draws, and should make the guesthouse’s cramped bunkbed dormitories (from ¥2,600 per person) and private rooms (from ¥6,000 per room) feel more bearable. Be warned: lights get

Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki As well as its enviable location – just around the corner from Kaminarimon gate in central Asakusa – it’s the attention to detail that sets Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki apart. The dorms have their own ensuite shower and toilet, there’s free WiFi in every room and it even gives you the option to sleep in a tatami-floored room. Dorms cost ¥3,000 per person, twins and doubles ¥3,400. 1-17-2 Asakusa, Taito. 03 5830 3673. www.khaosan-tokyo.com/en/kabuki. Sakura Hostel Asakusa At Tokyo’s largest backpacker spot, fluent English speakers dispense tourist information 24 hours a day at reception, while the common kitchen area and 24-hour bar and café bring a sense of community to what’s otherwise a slightly impersonal

Zen gardens Toco’s peaceful surrounds

74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P72-75 TRAVEL & HOTELS 22/10/2013 15:35 Page 75

(although scrupulously clean) facility, with a choice of dorms (¥2,940), twins (¥8,295) and group rooms that sleep up to eight people. The hostel sits ten minutes’ walk from the subway station. 2-24-2 Asakusa, Taito. 03 3847 8111. www.sakura-hotel.co.jp/asakusa.

Everything but the bill You can’t leap your way out of the Ritz’s windows

Travel & Hotels

Kangaroo Hotel Rock-bottom prices (starting at ¥3,300 for a single room) attract a mixed bag of guests, including Japanese tourists, backpackers, businessmen and families. The interior is a blend of old and new – the lobby’s exposed concrete walls and white furniture give it the feel of a trendy showroom, but they also have some Japanese-style rooms, complete with tatami mats and futons. All rooms have TVs, fridges and free LAN internet, although bathrooms and showers are shared. Find it sandwiched between other budget hotels in the Sanya neighbourhood, ten minutes’ walk from Minami-Senju station. 1-21-11 Nihonzutsumi, Taito. 03 3872 8573. www.kangaroohotel.jp.

Luxury

Five chic spots to glam it up Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo Hidden away in the ancient gardens of northern Tokyo, Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo (formerly known as Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-so) caters for moneyed locals on weekend escapes and celebrities seeking a little discretion, starting from ¥49,665 per room. Its opulent and luscious grounds contain historic statues from sites that include Nara and Kamakura, and is home to an impressive firefly population after dark. It has its own gym, spa and onsen (hot springs), and no less than 12 excellent restaurants with immaculate Japanese/European decor. 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo. 03 3943 1111. www.hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com. The Tokyo Station Hotel One of the few survivors of Japan’s frantic rush to modernisation in the late 19th century, the red-brick façade of Tokyo station now looks pristine after its five-year renovation. The in-house hotel had to close its doors for the duration, but has now reopened and is doing everything it can to reassert itself in a crowded market. Its premier restaurant, Blanc Rouge, offers Japanese-styled French fare, paired with vintage wines

from a 1,000-bottle cellar. Regulars will be pleased to hear that bartender Hisashi Sugimoto – who’s been with the hotel since 1958 – is back, serving his signature Tokyo Station cocktail. Rooms start from ¥27,900. 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 03 5220 1111. www.thetokyostationhotel.jp. Park Hyatt Tokyo Despite being Tokyo’s most decorated hotel, the Park Hyatt is perhaps now best known for its starring role in Sofia Coppola’s 2003 hit, ‘Lost in Translation’. The reception is on the glass-walled 41st floor, with stunning views over the whole of the city. Service is attentive but not fussy, and the rooms are among the largest in any Tokyo hotel. It also boasts a spa and sky-lit swimming pool. Rooms start from ¥49,000. 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5322 1234. www.tokyo.park. hyatt.com.

Splashing out? Cerulean Tower A night in The RitzThe Ritz Carlton Tokyu Hotel Carlton Suite, is just Tokyo Shibuya’s lone top-end ¥2.1m. Go on, From its lofty position establishment, the you deserve it. in Midtown Tower, the Cerulean Tower has www.ritzcarlton. tallest building rooms on floors 19-37 of com (because the Skytree the area’s tallest building, is technically a tower) in offering grandstand views, Tokyo, Ritz Carlton’s rooms starting from ¥32,000. In addition to are all more than 200 metres above ground, lifting its guests serenely out the usual impeccable restaurants and bars, it also has a jazz club and of the city’s busiest area. Along with its own noh theatre (see our guide to breathtaking panoramas of Tokyo this traditional form of performance, Tower and Mount Fuji, each of the p65). The executive floors, 35-37, 248 suites offers a minimum floor throw in gym access, daily papers, space of 52sq m, for prices from web television and refreshments ¥43,000 per night. The spa is the with the accommodation. first in Tokyo to use ESPA products. 26-1 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya. Tokyo Midtown 9-7-1, Akasaka, 03 3476 3000. www.ceruleantowerMinato. 03 3423 8000. hotel.com/en. www.ritz-carlton.jp. For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 75

Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 22/10/2013 12:46 Page 76

Getting Around Transport and services New to Tokyo? A little overwhelmed? Here are the basics to get you by… by a pre-recorded voice. A Toei bus route guide in English is available at Toei subway stations and hotels.

Airport transfers

Getting Around

Affordable travel options: From Narita Airport: Access Narita bus service to Ginza and Tokyo. Where to board: Ginza station Sukiyabashi, Tokyo station Yaesuguchi, Narita Airport. Adults ¥1,000, infants ¥500. www.accessnarita.jp/en. From Haneda Airport: Keikyu railway service to Shinagawa. Where to board: Tokyo’s Shinagawa station, Yokohama in Kanagawa, Haneda Airport. Adults ¥400 to Shinagawa, ¥470 to Yokohama. www.haneda-tokyoaccess.com/en/.

Rail and subway

Services are fast, clean, reliable and easy to use. Almost all stations have signs in English telling you which exit to take. Subways and train lines are colour-coded, and all operate from 5am to around midnight (JR lines a bit later). A Pasmo or Suica magnetic rail pass (see below) gives access to almost all routes. Until you get used to the map, check out the Hyperdia website –www.hyperdia.com/en – whichis in English. You just type in your starting point and destination to get routes, times and prices.

Buses

Like the trains, buses in Tokyo are run by several companies. Travel by bus can be confusing if you’re new to Japan, as signs are rarely in English. Toei and Keio Bus fares cost ¥200, other buses are ¥210 (half-price for kids), no matter what the distance. Get on the bus at the front and off at the back. If you aren’t using a Pasmo card, drop the exact fare into the slot in front of the driver. If you don’t have it, a change machine, usually to the right, will deduct your fare from the money. Stops are usually announced

76 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Accidents and emergencies

The following places offer regular appointments, emergency treatment and have Englishspeaking staff: Japan Red Cross Medical Centre 4-1-22 Hiroo, Shibuya. 03 3400 1311. www.med.jrc.or.jp/en. Hiroo station. 8.30-3pm Mon-Fri, 5pm-8.30amemergencies. 24-hr on public hols. St Luke’s International Hospital 9-1 Akashicho, Chuo. 03 5550 7120. www.luke.or.jp/eng. Tsukiji station. 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri (appointment only). 24-hr emergencies.

Seibo International Catholic Hospital 2-5-1 Naka-Ochiai, Shinjuku. 03 3951 1111. www.tinyurl.com/ TOTsei. Shimo-Ochiai station. 8-11am Mon-Sat (see website for afternoon opening times). Closed third Sat of month and public hols. Tokyo Medical Clinic and Surgical Clinic 32 Shiba Koen Building 2F, 3-4-30 Shiba Koen, Minato. 03 3436 3028. www.tmsc.jp. Shiba-Koen station. 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, until noon Sat. Appointment only.

Credit cards

To report lost or stolen credit cards, dial one of these available 24-hour freephone numbers: American Express 0120 020 120. English message follows after the Japanese. Diners Club 0120 074 024. MasterCard 000531 11 3886. Visa 006633 800 553.

Police

For emergencies, call the police on 110. If you are using a green public phone, press the red button first. For more essential city info go to timeout.com/tokyo

Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 22/10/2013 12:46 Page 77

Going underground? Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Getting Around For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 77

Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 23/10/2013 14:21 Page 78

Getting Around

The big picture A birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the city, plus our top ten suggestions for above-ground fun í˘ą Climb the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest tower Opened in May 2012, the 634m Tokyo Skytree currently ranks as the tallest tower on the planet, and its 450m observatory â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not coincidentally â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most in-demand tourist destination. www.tokyo-skytree.jp/en/. See website for prices. í˘˛ Hop aboard a swimming bus When a conventional tour just wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do, hop aboard the Sky Duck, an amphibious bus that plies the streets near the Skytree before going for a swim in the nearby river. 03 3215 0008. www.skybus.jp. From ÂĽ2,500 adults, ÂĽ1,200 kids.

í˘´

Getting Around

í˘ł Catch a classic jazz gig While its competitors aim for pricey dinner-lounge chic, long-running haunt Shinjuku Pit Inn attracts some toplevel Japanese and international jazz talent. 03 3354 2024. www.pit-inn.com. í˘´ Overload on otaku culture Akihabara? These days, the die-hard otaku descend upon Nakano Broadway to get their fix â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whether that involves manga, collectible figurines, video games or, er, replica machine guns.

í˘ˇ

í˘ľ Power up at Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

largest shrine Assuming that you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go there during the New Year celebrations, Meiji Shrine in Yoyogi Park is a surprisingly relaxing spot to visit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and also the site of a popular cosmic â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;power spotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Kiyomasa Well. í˘ś Give yourself an anime manicure Possibly Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first otaku nail salon, the artists at Ita Colorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yellow will skilfully adorn your talons with an anime character or design of your choosing at a rate of ÂĽ1,000 per ten minutes. 070 6467 4693. www.tinyurl.com/TOTyellow. í˘ˇ Descend into the mother of all department stores Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s department stores are unbeatable for quality, and none are quite as iconic as Shinjukuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Isetan, a retailing utopia spread across eight different buildings. 03 3352 1111. www.tinyurl.com/TOTise. í˘¸ Do some old-style shopping A visit to the charismatic and bustling Ameyoko Market, squeezed along the railway tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi stations, feels like a dive into Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past. í˘š Eat a dog-shaped cake

First opened back in 1929, Hakusuido has been churning out sweet, cream-laced treats for more than 80 years. Most famous of all are its poodle cakes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so cute, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feel guilty eating them. 03 3295 1208. www.tinyurl.com/TOThak.

ě?&#x2026; Absorb some myths and legends Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main kabuki theatre has stood on the same spot for more than 120 years, and its latest incarnation, Kabukiza, opened April 2013, brings to life tales from Japanese mythology through music and dance. 03 3545 6800. www.tinyurl.com/TOTkab.

78 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

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SHIBU Find out page 1

Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 23/10/2013 14:22 Page 79

í˘ą í˘¸

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í˘ś í˘š Getting Around

MARUNOUCHI Find out on page 36

NIHONBASHI Find out on page 58

TORANOMON Find out on page 51

ě?&#x2026; ROPPONGI Find out on page 50 SHIBUYA Find out on page 16

WANT MORE? For our free area maps, go online and head to: http://map.stores. jp/#!/

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 79

Come say konnichiwa at the…

Time OutCafé & Diner

Missing us between issues? Come to our place and hang out!

he physical outpost of Time Out Tokyo brings a dash of cosmopolitan class to Ebisu – and it’s a great place to while away a few hours. Housed in the upstairs floor of key live venue Liquidroom, the Time Out Café & Diner offers an ideal spot for lazy lunches, coffee sessions and meetings. The interior is styled like a New York loft eatery, all skylights, exposed brickwork, an eclectic mix of seating and a large central table that’s ideal for bigger gatherings. Order up some international food from the open-plan kitchen – specialities include the hearty pastrami sandwich and the mouthwatering Yatsugatake Premium Burger – and browse the library of Time Out books and magazines from around the globe. Alternatively, slurp a cappuccino, Chimay beer or cocktail, then check out the latest exhibition in the adjacent Kata gallery. And did we mention that we also have free Wi-Fi? Because we’re nice like that. 2F Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5774 0440. www.tinyurl.com/TOTcafe. Ebisu Station. 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30-5am Fri, 1pm-5am Sat, 1-10pm Sun & public hols.

Introducing Time Out Tokyo maps Keep us in your pocket to make even more of the city

egular Time Out readers will all know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our recent ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition (as featured on TV’s ‘Sekai Fushigi Hakken’, if we do say so ourselves), we’ve completed a special tie-in map with Roppongi Hills, and gone for broke with the latest: ‘88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, all out now. Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with city map. We’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries to otaku meccas, and from ancient shrines to hipster hangouts – and we’ve asked hotel concierges for a few tips of their own. That’s not all, though. Download the Time Out Tokyo Map Viewer app for iPhone and iPad, and you can bring up detailed maps and listings for all the places featured, simply by pointing your phone at the page. Plus, our ‘101 Things to do in Shinjuku’ has just arrived, out since October. All three maps are available to pick up at Time Out Café, Shibuya Station Tourist Information, Haneda and Narita Airports, or, even easier, to download online, if you go to: https://map.stores.jp/#!/.

80 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/london

You can pick up a copy of the Time Out Tokyo maps at a number of locations around the city, including the following venues: Stations: Shinjuku station, Tokyo Metro Meiji-Jingumae station, Tokyo Metro Tochomae station, Toei Oedo Line Roppongi station, Toei Oedo Line Roppongi station, Tokyo Metro Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Haneda Airport Narita Airport Shops: Tokyo Hands Daikanyana Tsutaya Books Tower Records Shibuya Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

Tokyo READY P82 PUBLIC CATS 22/10/2013 12:37 Page 82

ats: spoilt by the Ancient Egyptians a few thousand years ago and they’ve never forgotten it. Not interested in such lowly dog-like interests as loyalty, enthusiasm and fetching sticks, they’re basically a fur-enclosed mass of sneering judgement – but who cares when they’re so adorable? It’s no wonder that Japan, land of kawaii, has embraced them. Aside from the widely publicised ‘cat cafés’ –places where pet-deprived Tokyoites can drop in for a quick feline-companion fix –kittens have been fully institutionalised in the capital. So extend a paw and meet a few of our favourite public faces…

You know you’re in Tokyo when… The cat’s in charge

Public cats

The gallery cat Name: Ginji-Oyabun

Age: 10 (cat years: 57) Home: Gallery Éf, Taito. They’re known for looking down on humans, but if you walk along Edo-dori and see a grey-and-white-striped mewler literally staring down at you, you’ve probably just been judged by Gallery Éf’s Ginji. 2-19-18 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku. 03 3841 0442. www.gallery-ef.com/e.htm. Asakusa station. Noon-7pm Wed-Mon (9pm during exhibitions), closed Tue.

The tea house cats Name: Kaiser and Oujo

Age: 2 (Kaiser), 3 (Oujo) (cat years: 25 and 29) Home: Die Katze, Shinjuku This inappropriately named establishment is home to charming balls of fluff Kaiser and Oujo. Pop in if you like your black tea with a side of tabby. 202 Sunmall No.7 Bldg, 1-19-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3352 5510. Shinjuku-gyoenmae station. 11-8pm Mon-Sat , 11.30am-10pm Sun & public hols.

The café cat Name: Goemon

Age: 17 (cat years: 84) Home: Café Arles, Shinjuku. Visit this retro coffee shop and you may spot this handsome fellow stretched out on the sofa. Despite his advanced age, Goemon’s fluffy coat is still in, er, purr-fect condition. 5-10-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 3356 0003. ShinjukuSanchome station. 11.30am-10pm daily.

The sweet shop cats Name: Ishimatsu and Fumi

Age: Both around 15 (cat years: 76) Home: Kamikawaguchiya sweet shop, Toshima. He may be blind in one eye but Ishimatsu still loves keepingwatch outside this sweet shop. His sister, Fumi, prefersto hide. Pussy. 3-15-20 Zoshigaya, Toshima. Zoshigaya station. 10am-5pm daily.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Get your running shoes on… … and head to the best places to watch hanami

Spring guide to arts and events All the best events and activities to rid you of the winter blues

82 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from March 2014!

Issue 1: This Is Tokyo, The Greatest City On Earth

Articles inside

Cats

Film

Nightlife

tsunami comeback Tokyo: best city in the world

Eating

Road to recovery One town’s post

Drinking Shopping & Style

LGBT

They shoot Tokyo

Music

Tokyo Diary