Issue 5: 2015 Best Of Tokyo by Time Out Tokyo

INSIDE! What itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to be a monk Spend a night at a temple Art meets skateboarding The pros are getting creative New Year detox plan PLUS: where to eat organic

JAN - MAR 2015 NO.5 TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

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All the things worth queuing for

In this issue

www.timeout.com/tokyo

January – March 2015 November 2013 – January 2014

Hello Tokyo… Welcome to the first TimesoOut magazine. New Year means newever things, forTokyo the first issue of You’ll we’ve have noticed we’reakicking offpacked with 2015 put together specialthings section a modest littlelatest claim: that thisand cityheroes outshines with the city’s hotspots – allany of other metropolis – and over it’s not which made us siton upthe andplanet take notice theonly last because theno nonstop fireworks we do year. You’lloffind less than 15 new(although restaurants, like fireworks). Turn toeditors p24 and give you reviewed by UK guest Guywe’ll Dimond and49 other incontestable reasons. And in the rest Susan Low, along with attention grabbers likeof the magazine find more:ergonomic from proof the sexiestyou’ll ramen barhundreds owner, softest that the world will see love the greatest Games ever vibrator, and quirkiest hotel renovation. The in 2020 (p10) ourthere, tips on quintessential trends don’tto stop ofsuch course. If you’ve picked Tokyo experiences asskateboarder-turned-artist Golden-gai (p68) – and from up on the burgeoning the capital’s music, art to the savviest scene, read more on style p42. and If you’re wondering what citythe cats you’ll ever meet beyond all fuss is about noise(p82). music,Tokyo turn toisp50. And if compare. Usefigure this mag to make of it.drag you just can’t out why therethe aremost so many queens on TV, head for p56.

Inside Inside 06 Tokyo Update

City news, city views 06 13 Tokyo TokyoUpdate Diary City news, city views Essential events 12 Diary 21 Tokyo Courtesy calls Essential Tokyo for events 15 Courtesy beginners calls 23 How toto navigate Road Valentine’s recovery Day 18 2015: Bestpostof One town’s Tokyo tsunami comeback 24 Where eat, drink, Tokyo:tobest city shop, and in thesleep world kick back Need a reason? 34 Eating & Drinking We’ll give you 50! 39 Style

40 They shoot Tokyo One amazing city, 42 Art Culture 100& photographers 50 44 Music Eating & 54 Nightlife Drinking 56 52 LGBT Shopping & 58 Health Style & Fitness 60 60 Film LGBT 62 & Hotels 62 Travel Art & Culture 68 66 Getting Music Around 72 update 68 Tohoku Nightlife 73 71 The Filmevolution 72 of the kimono Travel & Hotels 74 know 76 You Getting Around 82 you’re Cats in Tokyo when…

On top of the world… 2015: Best Tokyo With the bid of in the bag, Your this ismust-visit, Tokyo’s moment… must-do, must-have Discover why you’re in the list theonnew year, bestfor city earth, p24 p18

Thebest best food The trucks Lunch nightlife Lose in Tokyo in is lasers on yourself the Trackof it the withmove. a round-up down, p34in town, p70 best clubs

tattoo The best insider parlours tips Discover a Fancy some Tokyo you didn’t traditional tebori? Get know existed. Our guide it p39 p68 tohere, Golden-gai,

detox The best in Inspiring ways Japanese music to getPerfume rid of theto From festive-season Aragehonji: findoverload, out who p58 is rocking our world, p66

The The best best snow new fun Things to restaurants make Whichyou newget food out of bed in in winter, places to try 2014? p62 We’ll tell you! p48

J O I N T H E C O N V E R S AATT I O N O N FFAA C E B O O K , T W I T T E RR AANNDD TTHHEE TTOOKKYYOOIITTEE BBLLOOGG facebook.com/TimeOutTokyo

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Editor International ContentContent International Managing Cover Editors Editorial Assistants Ili Saarinen Chief Content Producer International Director Cover Editors Ryoko Baba Yasuhisa Shimbo Kisa Toyoshima Commercial & Becky Lucas DirectorDirector DirectorDavid Woodley Photography Jun Igarashi Eri Ito Rebecca Morice Atsushi Tonosaki Art Direction:by Steve Nakamura Jun Igarashi Masako Matsuzaki ryokobaba@timeout.jp Kunihiro Miki Content Director Takuroh Toyama Marketing Sub Editor Tayna Jackson MarcusMarcus Webb Webb David Woodley Taishi Hirokawa Hidetaka Furuya Staff Photographers CEO Tim Arthur jun@timeout.jp Yukako Izumi Keisuke Tanigawa Joyce Lam Commercial & Hikari Ichikawa Akiko Toya Writer Flo Wales Bonner International Editor Chief Technical Officer Misaki Kawaguchi Head of Global Content Chairman-Founder Tokyo Annemarie Luck Mari Hiratsuka President/Publisher Contributing Editor Chris Bourn David Cook Ryo Harada izumi@timeout.jp Kenta Hoshino Marketing Manabu Morooka Chris Bourn Tony Elliott annemarieluck@ Designers Kisa Toyoshima Kosuke Shimizu Hiroyuki Fushitani James International Director Group Marketing Director Ryo Koshirakawa Akiko Toya Production andTime Out Digital GlobalArt Editor Time Out Tokyo Inc. TimeHadfield Out Digital Designers Patrick AnthonyEllen Huggins Carolyn Sims timeout.jp Yasuhisa Shimbo Yuki Masuko Takuroh Toyama Aisté Riabovaité Sales Assistants Chairman Universal House, 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, President/Publisher Hardy 5-9-9-101 Hiroo,Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 Universal House, Tom Court Havell Production CEO Tim Arthur Court Road, London, McNamee, Editorial Assistants Miho Morozumi Ryo Harada Hiroyuki Fushitani Daiki Masuda 251 Tottenham Hiroshi Hasegawa www.timeout.jp Yuka Yamazaki Sales Assistants International Art Director +81 (0)3 5792 5721 251 Tottenham Road, London, Picture Researcher Dave Chairman-Founder Ili Saarinen Yu Miyakoshi ContributorsDaiki MasudaStaff Photographers Advertising and general enquiries: Chairman Momo Ando W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Anthony Huggins www.timeout.jp W1T 7AB www.timeout.com, Katie Mulhern--Bhudia, Isidora O’Neill Faulkner, Adam Lee Davies Tony Elliott +44 (0)20 7813 3000 ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Masako Matsuzaki Keisuke Tanigawa Content Director info@timeout.jp Annemarie Luck Ikuko Hirahara Hiroshi Hasegawa International Managing Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp +44 (0)20 7813 3000

App a vailab for fre le throu e g iTune h the s stor e.

Foryour yourfull, full, up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 5 For

Tokyo update

CITY FAQ

Is Sony cruel for killing Aibo? Don’t worry, Aibo is only a robot dog, but still…

WHAT YOU SAID

Readers have their say about Aibo and robot culture

‘My wife was afraid of dogs but bought an Aibo. After two years, she so liked the idea of a dog that we bought a real dog and Aibo now sits in a box.’

he problem with inventing robots and marketing them as something to love is that people will actually begin to love them. Did Sony consider this when it launched its robotic pup named Aibo 15 years ago? Then-president of Sony, Nobuyuki Idei, probably did, since he reportedly held a mock funeral when the company heads decided to stop production in 2006. By this time, the little metal beagle-like pets were bringing joy to around 150,000 households (at a price of ¥250,000 each), developing their own personalities (Aibo can ‘learn’ behaviour based on how it’s raised) and, as research showed, helping to reduce levels of loneliness and improve quality of life. At least, the owners must have reasoned, Sony was still offering a maintenance service for ‘sick’ Aibos. But in 2014, the

company announced it would no longer be offering its repair service, leaving owners devastated at the thought of having to ‘put down’ their beagle ’bots. We weren’t quite sure what to make of this news. Is Sony being cruel? Or is it the people who are mad? Are we moving further towards a world where we replace real affection with love from a robot? Even more confusingly, why does watching Aibo vids on YouTube make us go ‘Aw’? We asked readers what they thought and 63.4 percent of you said you would buy an Aibo if it was still being made, while 83.3 percent of you said, yes, Sony is cruel for stopping their repair services. When asked if you thought Japan has been taking robot culture too far lately, 58.3 percent of you said no. More of your comments in the column opposite.

For full city listings, go to www.timeout.com/tokyo

TOKYO LOVES…

‘This is robot cruelty.’ ‘People are attached to things, I guess.’ ‘Sometimes I think my computer is a bit humanoid; the technological revolution has begun, my friend.’ ‘Robots help people who cannot connect with other people.’ ‘Humans alienate themselves. It has nothing to do with robot culture.’

Free wi-fi In December, 143 Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway stations were blessed with free and easy-to-use wireless connectivity. We have arrived in the 21st century. www.ntt-bp.net/jcfw/en.html

UNESCO nods Washi – traditional paper that’s hand-made from mulberry fibres – was recently awarded Intangible Cultural Heritage status, bringing the country’s listings to a grand total of 23.

6 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Ramen cake Confuse dinner guests by serving ramen as a main and then bringing out another bowl of, erm, ramen. Not really – it’s a sponge cake, and you can buy it at Maplies: B2F, 1-2-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku.

‘Costs quite a bit and some of my friends might think I’m crazy. Still want one though!’

RESTAURANT APPS There’s no need to trawl the streets aimlessly any more

PERSONAL GUIDE The app Gurunavi What’s it for? If you have specific needs, like, an English menu. How does it work? This app has a comprehensive list of restaurants around Tokyo. It’s simple and easy to navigate, allowing you to search according to preferences like budget, location, all-you-can eat, and whether there is English-speaking staff. They have special discount coupons too. Get it Free from the App store and Google Play. www.gnavi.co.jp/en/ mobile

Where in Tokyo is this? Every issue we’ll show you a picture of a Tokyo location that you may or may not recognise. We’ll reveal where this photo was taken in our Photo of the Day series at www.timeout.com/tokyo. This photo’s clue: This statue by legendary avant-garde artist Taro Okamoto sits outside a building that’s usually filled with kids climbing jungle gyms and rolling around in massive ball pools.

‘Yokai Watch’ madness

A celebratory bento To mark the 100th anniversary of Tokyo Station, restaurateurs and station employees collaborated to create this special lunch box. ¥1,800 gets you a total of nine distinct Edo-style dishes, including kasuzuke (pickled in sake) flounder and traditional umani (sweet, simmered vegetables and fish) from Nihonbashi’s Daimasu. The box is pretty sweet, too. Available until Feb 28 at Matsuri Station Bento. tinyurl.com/ TOTbento-100

It’s probably about time Pokémon had a rival, although we’re still stunned at the level of dedication parents have shown in their quest to score ‘Yokai Watch’ products for their kids. We’re talking hours of queuing outside Toys R Us, with no guarantee that there’ll be any stock left once you reach the front. So what’s so special about the ‘Yokai Watch’ video game created by Level 5, and its mountains of related commercial goods? It’s all about a boy who discovers a ‘capsule’ and opens it up to discover a Yokai (spirit) named Whisper who gives him a special watch with which to call up more spirits (like Jibanyan, above). Trust us, it’s a certified craze. www.youkai-watch.jp

SOMETHING FISHY The app Sooshi What’s it for? Take a guess. How does it work? Besides being a beautifully designed app, Sooshi not only provides listings of sushi restaurants, but also features information on how to prepare it, what utensils to buy, and the different types available. Get it ¥236 from the App store. getsooshi.com IF YOU LIKE LISTS The app Quchy What’s it for? Creating your own database of restaurant business cards. How does it work? Either search for restaurants near you or in a specific location and pick and choose from the list that comes up. One tap and you’ve stored all the info in your ‘Collections’, so you’ll never again have to rack your brain trying to remember the name of that restaurant you wanted to try. Get it Free from the App store. www.quchy.com

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 7

Local legends #5

If Japanese blood types could talk, this is how a group chat would read…

Tokyo’s Santa Claus

In Tokyo, asking another’s blood type is like asking, ‘So what’s your star sign?’ It’s believed that blood types (ketsueki-gata) are predictive of personality and compatibility in romantic relationships. They’re even used in the creation of anime and manga characters’ personalities. Here’s what we imagine a Line group chat to look like if one had to take place between blood types A, B, AB and O. Hey guys, I’m having a New Year party this weekend. Who’s in? I can’t, I’m busy alphabetising my CDs.

hristmas in Japan is, well, strange – how else would one describe the convenience stores hawking decorative cream cakes, the stressed boyfriends booking months in advance to secure a table at a romantic restaurant, or the mind-boggling queues for fried chicken? One of the few authoritative voices looking to bring order to this chaos is Paradise Yamamoto, Japan’s only official Santa Claus and a certified member of Greenland’s International Association of Authorised Santa Clauses. Since earning his bright-red colours way back in 1998, Yamamoto has been busy spreading the joy of Christmas to the farthest reaches of the country, working to perfect his signature ‘Ho, Ho, Ho!’ while tirelessly appearing at events and visiting facilities like children’s hospitals and orphanages. Interacting with the young ’uns is indeed his favourite part of the job, as Santa obviously has the power to brighten the gloomiest of

Sure, I think I can make it. But if it sucks, I’m leaving early. Hey A, you still have CDs? You’re such a loser.

circumstances. ‘Being able to bring even a little happiness to kids with long-term diseases or ones who have lost their parents – it’s tough but extremely rewarding.’ On the other hand, Yamamoto still continues to struggle for recognition: ‘From late November every year, Santas from places like Finland come over here and Japanese people think those guys are the only real thing, even though they have no clout outside of Japan – it’s frustrating.’ Although being a Santa Claus doesn’t take up all of Yamamoto’s time – his many talents also include making mambo music, bonsai and gyoza dumplings – Christmas is something he feels very strongly about. ‘To me, the true meaning of the holiday is expressed by giving presents, not receiving them. Japan also needs to understand that Christmas is about weeks of preparation, about taking it easy, about togetherness.’ And what’s the deal with the fried chicken? ‘Brilliant marketing – just like the cakes.’

Great idea O. Is your sister going to be there? I’m in the mood for some sexxxy time.

Hey B, yeah she’s going to be there. But she’ll never go for you. She’s looking for an O. We’re the best, obvs.

I’ll just lie, tell her I’m O.

You can’t lie about your blood type! AB, I might be a loser, but at least I’m not type AB. Ouch. O, tell us what we need to bring to the party? O? Ooooooo?

… a few minutes later… You guys are still here? Sorry, got distracted, couldn’t find my keys. Again. 8 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

SECRET CITY Attractions off the beaten track

Shotgun Be prepared to fight for a place at the kotatsu

In Tokyo for winter? You’ve come to the right place Uniqlo’s heat-generating Heattech fabric is not the only way to keep warm in the city. Japan has plenty of traditional ways to keep the chill at bay – and we’re not talking about the blatant overuse of aircon on trains and in shops.

The magic blanket Invented during the country’s Muromachi era to make up for the fact that Japanese homes don’t have central heating, the kotatsu is a low wooden table covered by a futon or heavy blanket (shitagake) that has an electric heater underneath or built into the table. Since it doesn’t quite warm up the rest of the house, the kotatsu often becomes the centre of activity, with people sometimes even sleeping around it. Meaning, you’ll be fighting for leg room, with pets included.

Fire in your pocket Okay, not quite, but this is what ‘kairo’ translates as. These little heat pads, which can be placed in pockets, shoes or anywhere

really, are a saving grace if you have to spend hours outside in the cold. They’ve been around since 1904 and you can pick them up from most convenience stores and supermarkets for about ¥250 for a pack of ten. Simply shake the bag a few times and the pads automatically warm up to around 50°C, for up to 20 hours.

Granny underwear made stylish Originally worn by soldiers during war to keep them warm and ward off danger, haramaki (abdomen wraps) are thermal bands worn around the belly, either under or over your clothes. While once considered grannywear, the haramaki came roaring into fashion a few years ago when Shigesato Itoi began releasing stylish ranges through his company Hobonichi – the 2014 Summer collection included three designs created in collaboration with Nintendo. English ordering instructions here: tinyurl.com/ TOThobonichi.

Did you know… Japan has its own range of emoticons? EMOTIONS

（*＾ 3＾） /～♡

o(^▽ ^)o

・゜・ (ノД `) or (ToT)

(シ _ _)シ

Love: sending hearts and kisses

Happy: jumping up and down with excitement

Sad: life is over

Sorry: bowing to apologise

ACTIONS

(╯°□°） ╯︵ ┻━┻

(－ ‸ლ)

(ｏ・ _・ )ノ” (ノ _＜。 )

三┏ ( ˘ω˘ )┛

Table flipping: I’ve had enough!

Facepalm: are you being serious?

Patting someone on the head: it’ll be alright

Running: skidding away

RANDOM

They’re called kaomoji (‘face characters’) and, unlike Western emoticons, you don’t have to cock your head 90 degrees to ‘read’ them. We have no idea how many exist, but JapaneseEmoticons.net claims to have the internet’s longest list of kaomoji and theirs is 9,130 strong.

┐(‘～ `； )┌

(#｀∀ ´)_Ψ

( ¬_¬)

∑ （｡･Д ･｡） ???

Meh: just don’t care

Evil: don’t dare coming near me!

Thinking: thinking really hard

Confused: huh?

Ueno Daibutsu (Kaneiji temple) Forget about the pandas – inside Ueno Park you’ll find Kaneiji temple, which is the site of Daibutsu Yama (Great Buddha Hill) and its impressive statue of Buddha. The Ueno Daibutsu statue dates back to 1631 and its large Buddha face sits serenely in the park. The head of the original statue toppled over during the Great Kanto earthquake in 1923, and the body was melted for metal during the World War II, leaving only the face. Get up close and examine the curvy lines and details of his moustache. Ueno Park, Taito (Ueno Station). tinyurl.com/TOTueno-park. Open 9am-4pm. Tokyo Camii & Turkish Culture Center Standing in exotic splendour on Inogashira-dori, Tokyo Camii is the largest mosque in Japan and was built by Turkish immigrants from Russia back in 1938. The Prayer Hall holds up to 1,200 people, and anyone interested in seeing the beautiful architecture, Islamic stained-glass windows and exquisitely patterned dome will be warmly welcomed – you can even join in the daily prayers held five times a day. Be sure to check their website for proper dress code. 1-19 Oyamacho, Shibuya (YoyogiUehara Station). www.tokyocamii.org. Open 10am-6pm. Dialog in the Dark What, ¥5,000 to spend 90 minutes in the dark? Don’t knock it till you try it. The point of Dialog in the Dark is to experience what it’s like to not be able to rely on sight. You’ll be guided by a visually impaired person, who will lead you into different rooms and give you tips on how to orientate yourself and move around in the pitch black. Normal tours are in Japanese but an English version is available once a month – check their website for the latest schedule. 1 Raysum Bldg, 2-8-2 Jingumae, Shibuya (Gaienmae Station). www.dialoginthedark.com. Adults ¥5,000, students ¥3,500.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 9

New Year by numbers Although Japan has embraced Christmas celebrations, New Year is the more important tradition. Here’s what to do when faced with a plate of mochi, a raging bonfire or a pretty envelope that’s begging to be filled

5,000

The amount of yen usually given as otoshidama (pocket money) to children on January 1. Of course, this amount varies from anywhere between ¥1,000 to ¥10,000, but if it’s your first time giving, then ¥5,000 is a safe bet. According to a survey done by Gakken in 2013, the average total amount received by 10-year-olds was ¥20,112. The money should be presented in little decorative envelopes (pochi bukuro) and the children prefer the notes to be crisp, new ones from the bank – or you could just iron the notes if you’re pressed for time. We write this with a straight face.

The date in December that everyone eats toshikoshi soba (year-end soba). The tradition is said to have originated in Tokyo and become popular during the Edo period, with people choosing soba noodles over the thicker udon noodles because their width and length symbolise longevity. Also, the fact they are easy to ‘cut’ with your teeth symbolises a clean break with the past year and its hardships. Just be sure to finish chewing before the clock strikes midnight, otherwise legend holds you’ll be crossing over into the new year with all your troubles still in hand.

3 9th

The number of days the New Year holiday period lasts (aka san-ganichi).

201

2015

The Beethoven symphony that Japan becomes obsessed with around New Year. There are different reasons given for this tradition, one of them being that musicians needed extra money (to buy all those deadly mochi cakes – see below), and since Beethoven’s 9th was guaranteed to sell tickets, it was performed often. These days, there are dozens of performances every December.

108

201

The number of times a bell at temples is rung at midnight on New Year’s Eve – to chase away the 108 ‘earthly sins’, according to Buddhist custom.

The date in January when people go to Dondo Yaki, a traditional bonfire ceremony for burning New Year decorations. The decorations are initially hung to welcome the Toshigami (god of the year), and by burning them, you’re sending him off again. Sprinkle some salt, pour on some sake and set them alight. As the fire dies down, you can roast some mochi on sticks, like marshmallows.

The date in January that most people eat mochi for the Kagami Biraki (Mirror Opening) ceremony. Beware, though: the innocent-looking sticky rice cakes cause several deaths from choking every year, particularly among the elderly. One Japanese company even launched ‘safe-to-swallow’ rice cakes just before the 2014 season to try and combat the problem. Solution? Break ’em up.

1 million + The number of people you’ll have to contend with if you visit some of Tokyo’s most popular shrines and temples over the first few days of the New Year.

10 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

2015

The year tourists are getting lucky with fukubukuro ’Tis the season of the fukubukuro – the mystery lucky bags filled with random, unknown stuffers sold by shops and department stores at New Year (usually from around January 1 and lasting a week). Even though in some cases it’s really just about shops trying to get rid of unsold merchandise, people still flock – the attraction lying in the fact that you’re pretty much guaranteed to end up with something that’s worth more than the amount you paid. It could be very worth your while, for example, to slap down ¥36,000 at an Apple store and pick up a ‘gift’ including a Wi-Fi-only iPad Air and Smart Cover, Philips LED lamp, Nike+ FuelBand SE, and Gold Edition Beats by Dr Dre Bluetooth Speaker (which were reportedly the contents of one of Apple’s fukubukuro in 2014). There are cheaper options too, such as Mister Donut’s annual ‘Misudo fukubukuro’ – for a few thousand yen, you could land yourself 20 doughnuts. In 2015, foreign tourists are in luck, if you’ll ’scuze the pun, as word on the street is that one of the main themes among big department stores for this year’s lucky bags is ‘Discover Japan’. If you head to Matsuzakaya in Ueno, for one, you could end up with a ¥20,150 bulging bag containing not only souvenirs but also two tickets for a sumo stable tour. If you’re not sure where to go, head to Isetan in Shinjuku, central Harajuku or Omotesando and look for any store with a big sign saying something like ‘7-day bargains’. Or just look for the queues of crazy-eyed, purse-wielding women.

Tokyo Diary What’s on in town January-March 2015

Tokyo Diary

Make the most of the city with our editors’ picks of the best things to do over the next three months

Turbocharged January Multiple matsuris on one night (this photo), the first sunrise (below left), and cats in excess (below right)

January AROUND TOWN 12 CLASSICS OF FILM HISTORY An annual occurrence now back for its 12th edition, this classics programme highlights mainly European and American greats from way back in the day. This time it features directors like Fritz Lang, John Ford, Howard Hawks and Orson Welles, with Busby Berkeley’s 1940 musical ‘Strike Up the Band’ screened in Japan for the very first time. Dec 27-Jan 30 Cinema Vera Shibuya, 4F Kinohaus, 1-5 Maruyamacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTclassicfilms. ¥1,400. AROUND TOWN HATSUMODE: FIRST PRAYER Expect big crowds at Tokyo’s shrines for the first prayer, as well as food and drink stalls to keep you entertained. The atmosphere is lively, and many shrines have traditional shows such as Shishimai, a lion dance for good luck. Meiji is the biggest, but pretty much every shrine will be open and bustling on New Year. Jan 1 Meiji Jingu Shrine, 1-1 Yoyogi-

Kamizonocho, Shibuya. www. meijijingu.or.jp/english/. Free. AROUND TOWN TOKYO TOWER FIRST SUNRISE Want to watch the first sunrise of the new year 250m above ground? You’ll probably need to queue through the night, as only 80 lucky individuals will be let in and ticket distribution will start at 4am on the day. However, even if you miss out, there’s always the Main Observatory, which will be open from 6am without entrance limits and should still provide fab views of the sun emerging from Tokyo Bay. Also, as a special New Year’s gift, the first 2,015 visitors to the observatories will receive a commemorative medal stamped with the date 2015.1.1. Jan 1 Tokyo Tower, 4-2-8 Shiba-Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTsunrise. Adults ¥900, children ¥500.

12 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS MEOW EXHIBITION 4 The illustrations, photos, accessories and all kinds of quirky knickknacks have one thing in common at this wildly popular annual exhibit: they all feature cats. Moving to Harajuku’s Design Festa Gallery for this year’s edition, Meow Exhibition is a must for anyone with a soft spot for furry felines. Jan 6-12 Design Festa Gallery Harajuku, 3-20-2 Jingumae, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTnyanko. Free. AROUND TOWN FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO Like a turbocharged version of the free festivals that take place in

Yoyogi Park throughout the year, the annual Furusato Matsuri lets prefectures around Japan dazzle Tokyoites with their culture – and, of course, their food. There’ll be stalls at Tokyo Dome hawking everything from sake to seafood, with special sections devoted to donburi rice bowls, fancy desserts and the like. Once you’ve sated your appetite (or grown tired of fighting through the mobs of drooling gastronomes), you can sit back and watch large-scale recreations of popular festivals like Aomori’s Nebuta Matsuri and the Issaki Hoto Matsuri, or the costume character dance contest. Jan 9-18 Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/TOTfurusato. Same-day ¥1,600. AROUND TOWN DAIKOKU MATSURI Honouring Daikoku, the deity of fortune, this annual January celebration at Kanda Shrine attracts revellers looking to secure a helping of good luck for the year ahead, and also includes a few interesting ‘performances’. The hocho-shiki ritual (from noon on Jan 11) sees a master of the cutting arts demonstrate some serious kitchen knife moves while chopping up fish,

Traditional treasures Edo antiques (this photo) and hina dolls (right)

while a pre-Coming of Age classic features fresh adults endure a traditional version of the Ice Bucket Challenge (from 10am on Jan 10). Jan 10-12 Kanda Shrine, 2-16-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/ TOTdaikokumatsuri. Free

MUSIC ALT-J The symbol-named, award-winning trio from Leeds play reverbsmothered, off-kilter indie that echoes Yeasayer and Jeff Buckley. Some find it utterly enchanting, others favour the term ‘snoozefest’, but whichever side of that fence you’re on, it’s hard to deny they’re a pretty big deal nowadays. They’ve just announced

AROUND TOWN EARTH GARDEN WINTER You know that people are serious about all that ‘love the earth’ stuff when they’re still willing to gather in Yoyogi Park around mid-January. The winter edition of the quarterly Earth Garden features the usual array of eco-themed stalls, food stands and workshops, with music and art performances also expected to take place. Jan 17-18 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 YoyogiKamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTearthgarden. Free.

AROUND TOWN 14TH TOKYO INTERNATIONAL QUILT FESTIVAL We never ever would have guessed, but this annual celebration of all things quilted is actually the biggest of its kind in the world and even ranks among the most popular festivals and happenings at Tokyo Dome every year. And it gets better: the 2015 edition is dedicated to exploring the relationship between quilting and the ’70s hit TV series ‘Little House on the Prairie’, which apparently started a quilting boom in Japan. Expect full-size sets from the show to appear among the sea of stalls showing off everything from Hawaiian quilts to creations themed on children’s books. Jan 22-28 Tokyo Dome, 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/ TOTquiltfestival. Advance ¥1,900, same-day ¥2,100, children accompanied by adults free.

Love the earth Even outdoors in winter

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS MEGURO GAJOEN HYAKUDAN KAIDAN FESTIVAL: SETOUCHI HINA DOLLS Meguro Gajoen’s celebration of Hinamatsuri, or Girls’ Day, has become a popular yearly occurrence. This year’s edition features hina dolls from prefectures around the Seto Inland Sea, including Hyogo, Okayama and Hiroshima, highlighting the region’s strong traditions in marking this special day. Marvel at the various accessories required in constructing the perfect seven-tiered hina-dan platform, and take the opportunity to learn more about this centuries-old custom. Jan 23-Mar 8 Meguro Gajoen, 1-8-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro. tinyurl.com/ TOTmegurohinadolls. ¥1,500, (adv ¥1,200), students ¥800, children free. MUSIC CHET FAKER Australia’s rising star Chet Faker blends R&B, pop and soul into electronic music, topped with ‘smokey’ vocals which belie the fact he’s only in his mid-20s. In 2014, he released his debut album, ‘Built On Glass’, and also made his debut in Japan at Fuji Rock. Jan 26 Shibuya Club Quattro, 32-13-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTchetfaker. Advance ¥5,500.

MUSIC TYCHO Garnering worldwide attention with his 2011 album ‘Dive’, Tycho performed in Japan for the first time in 2013. With another well-received album, ‘Awake’, under his belt, he returns for this long-awaited solo concert. We’re looking forward to hearing his new sound, since lately he’s moved more towards electronica and ambient. Jan 29 Tsutaya O-East, 2-14-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTtycho. ¥6,000.

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Tokyo Diary

AROUND TOWN OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET Alternating between Yoyogi Park and the Tokyo International Forum, this market is great for picking up some cool art, unique handicrafts, or timeworn decorative items. Keep an eye out for real Edo-era treasures hidden among the heaps of merchandise, and don’t forget to bundle up – the winter chill can get distracting rather quickly. Jan 12 & Feb 22 Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi-Kamizonocho, Shibuya. www. antique-market.jp/english. Free.

a world tour ranging from Madison Square Garden to Melbourne and Milan, with this January stop in Tokyo being their only Asian gig on the trip. Fresh off the release of their second album, ‘This Is All Yours’, alt-J (∆, try it on your Mac) is worth a look, especially for friends of focused, slow-burning melodies. Jan 13 Tsutaya O-East, 2-14-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ TOTaltJ. Advance ¥6,000.

AROUND TOWN SALON DU CHOCOLAT Tokyo’s most indulgent romantics will again be aching to stock up on fancy choccies at this year’s Salon du Chocolat, held just a few weeks before Valentine’s Day. Moving from Isetan to a more spacious basement location for its 13th edition, the Tokyo incarnation of Paris’s famous chocolate trade show bears little relation to its French forebear: gone are the free samples, workshops and chocolate fashion shows, replaced by what more closely resembles a department store food court on the first day of the New Year sales. If you don’t mind braving the crowds, though, there’ll be a range of exotic, hard-to-find treats on offer, including goodies from a group of ‘bean-to-bar’ (meaning they control everything from cocoa bean processing to design) brands. Jan 21-25 B1F Shinjuku NS Bldg, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl. com/TOTduChoco. Free.

Tokyo Diary February

Tokyo Diary

AROUND TOWN ZOJO-JI END-OFWINTER TSUINASHIKI (BEAN THROWING) Along with mochi (chewy rice cake) pounding and an ogre Q&A session, where kids accompany a Zojoji Buddhist monk to ask an ‘ogre’ questions, there’s the always-popular mamemaki (beanscattering ceremony) featuring sumo wrestlers and other entertainers. Feb 3 Zojoji Temple, 4-7-35 Shiba Koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTzojoji. Free. MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS 45TH ANNIVERSARY SAZAE-SAN’S EXHIBITION This special exhibition, which commemorates the 45th anniversary of the first broadcast of the anime ‘Sazae-san’, has been touring Japan for about two years – finally arriving in Tokyo this February. It takes you through a replica of the world inhabited by Sazae-san, from Asahigaoka Station to her favourite shopping area, to the Isono family home. At the Hanazawa Real Estate Agency display, you can donate ¥100 to buy a plot on the Asahigaoka diorama and build a miniature house. Feb 4-16 Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Department Store, 1-4-1 NihonbashiMuromachi, Chuo. tinyurl.com/ TOTsazaesan. Adults, students ¥800 (advance ¥600), high-school students ¥400 (advance ¥300), children free. AROUND TOWN PLUM BLOSSOM FESTIVAL Constructed in the early decades of the 19th century, when Edo town culture began to flourish, Mukojima Hyakkaen is a lush flower garden featuring about 60 plum trees and about 20 varieties of plum

Hello Mom! Electro duo Modeselektor

blossoms. The Plum Blossom Festival is held every year as they begin to bloom during February and March. On weekends during the festival, street performers called daido-gei add to the atmosphere. Feb 7-Mar 3 Mukojima Hyakkaen, 3-18-3 Higashi-Mukojima, Sumida. tinyurl.com/TOTplumfest. ¥150. MUSIC GAN-BAN NIGHT SPECIAL FEAT. MODESELEKTOR Popular German electronic duo Modeselektor has been warmly welcomed by Japanese audiences in the past, and now return for their first show at Ageha. If you can’t quite place them, Google their 2005 hit ‘Hello Mom!’. In 2008, they featured as opening act for Radiohead, and in 2014 they went on a world tour with electronic musician Apparat’s band project Moderat. Feb 10 Ageha, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTganbannight. ¥4,000. MUSIC HOSTESS CLUB WEEKENDER 2015’s first instalment of this popular concert series is a must for indie fans. It includes Belle and Sebastian; St. Vincent, whose performance at Fuji Rock 2014 is still a hot topic; Caribou, with his much-lauded new release ‘Our Love’; and Thurston Moore of Sonic Youth. Feb 21-22 Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto. ynos.tv/hostessclub. Advance tickets: one-day ¥7,900, twoday ¥13,900.

14 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

AROUND TOWN TOKYO MARATHON The Marathon returns for its ninth year, with some 36,000 runners set to tear up the streets. Race applications are closed but you can still find a good sideline spot and cheer participants on as they sprint/shuffle past. Feb 22 Starts from Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Shinjuku. www.tokyo42195. org/2015. Free. AROUND TOWN YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL FOR ART & ALTERNATIVE VISIONS Known as ‘Yebizo’ for short, this annual event is a fortnight-long bonanza of video art, films screenings, talks and symposia. The main exhibition is free, but some of the other screenings and events might have an entrance fee. This year’s theme is ‘See you on other planets’, with art being explored from new perspectives, as if visiting an unknown planet. Feb 27-Mar 8 Yebisu The Garden Hall (and other venues), 1-13-2 Mita, Meguro. tinyurl. com/TOTyebisuart. Free, but some events might have an entrance fee.

March AROUND TOWN RIKUGIEN CHERRY BLOSSOM LIGHTUP Rikugien’s annual spring celebration sees the beautiful Japanese garden and its huge cherry trees lit up in

the evenings, creating a magical atmosphere for sakura flower viewing. The park stays open until 9pm for the duration of the event. Mar 19-Apr 5 Rikugien, 6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/ TOTrikugien-lightup. ¥300. AROUND TOWN ANIMEJAPAN 2015 The world’s largest anime industry event targets a wide range of visitors from around the globe, including anime fans as well as artists and producers. The main area features booths from leading Japanese anime companies and organisations, stages, exhibits, a theatre, and more. There’s a Family Area for those with kids, and the Red, Green and Blue (RGB) stages will feature talk shows, live performances and other entertainment. Mar 21-22 Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. www.anime-japan.jp/ en. Adults and high-school students ¥1,600, children free.

MUSIC PUNKSPRING This annual punk rock moshfest always attracts a great line-up, and for 2015 you can look forward to Fall Out Boy, Rancid, Zebrahead and Rise Against, among others. Mar 29 Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl.com/TOTpunkspring. ¥9,500. Want more upcoming events? Go online to timeout.com/tokyo

Courtesy calls Etiquette made easy

No 5 How to navigate Valentine’s Day In a nutshell, women won’t be waking up to red roses in Feb, and men will be spending their March salary on all things white. Here’s how to make the most of Japan’s V-Day role reversal. Words Grace Buchele Mineta. Illustration Bunny Bissoux

DON’T FORGET ABOUT WHITE DAY If now you’re thinking, ‘Wow, it must suck to be a woman in Japan on Valentine’s Day’ or, ‘Wow, I need to move to Japan’, don’t forget that women do get some love too, exactly one month later. White Day takes place on March 14 and was first introduced by a confectionary company in the ’70s, who named it after the colour of sugar and then twisted the meaning by saying white means ‘pure love’. On White Day, men return the V-Day favour threefold (read: three times the cost) to all the women who gave them gifts on February 14. It can get expensive, fast. As the name suggests, the theme of the day is white, so women often expect white chocolate, white scarves or accessories, and/or silver jewellery. If a Japanese woman gives you a gift, even just giri-choco, don’t forget to get her a little something in return for White Day. (My husband is quick to point out that if you break up with a girl between Valentine’s Day and White Day, you don’t have to get her a present, but I wouldn’t recommend that.)

y first ‘Japanese Valentine’s Day’ was interesting, to say the least. My then-boyfriend (now husband) hinted a couple of weeks ahead of time that he wanted his ‘honmei-choco’ (full definition below) to be homemade rather than store-bought. I turned to Google and discovered his country has a different way of celebrating Valentine’s Day. Even though we were in America at the time, I decided I should be open to his culture... so I melted some chocolate in the microwave, poured it into a Texas-shaped cookie cutter, and called it done. He drew funny captions on pictures of us and put them in an album. It was all very romantic. I found out later that he wasn’t planning on giving me anything, but the day before Valentine’s Day, his (American) roommate pointed out that girls dump their boyfriends for many reasons, one of which being they didn’t get a gift on Valentine’s Day. Of course I wouldn’t have done that; that’s just silly. But if I had gone to all the trouble of making honmeichoco and he’d shown up emptyhanded, we would have fought. DO KNOW THE HISTORY Valentine’s Day was imported to Japan in the ’50s by a Japanese chocolate company that wanted to profit from a special occasion centring around buying things for people you love. By accident (or perhaps on purpose), some of the first ads for Valentine’s ads here misrepresented the Western tradition, claiming it was a day when women showed love to the men in their lives by giving them various types of chocolate, instead of the other way around. Now, more than 50 years later, Japanese Valentine’s Day is still a day when women

give stuff to men. And chocolate companies continue to profit, reportedly making half their annual sales during this time of year. DO KNOW YOUR HONMEI FROM YOUR GIRI There are two main types of chocolates given on Valentine’s Day: honmei-choco and giri-choco. Make sure to specify the type when you give it. Honmei-choco (本命チョコ), taken from the words honmei (the favourite) and choco (chocolate), are chocolates given to a very special person in your life, such as a boyfriend, husband or close male friend. From time to time, honmei-

choco are accompanied by a ‘love confession’, where a woman asks the recipient to be her boyfriend. Giri-choco (義理チョコ), taken from the words giri (obligation) and choco (chocolate), are chocolates given to someone without a romantic attachment, such as colleagues, friends or bosses. Depending on how many people are in your work circle, giri-choco can set you back several thousand yen. In recent years, two new types have also been marketed: gyaku-choco (逆チョコ), which means ‘reverse chocolate’ ie. for men to give to women as in the traditional custom; and tomo-choco (友チョコ), which means ‘friend chocolate’.

DON’T SKIP YOUR COLLEAGUES Two years ago, I was working at a Japanese company on Valentine’s Day. My husband urged me to buy small, individually wrapped chocolates for all my male colleagues and bosses. I thought it was weird and creepy, but I followed his advice, and, was surprised to see most of my female colleagues had also brought chocolate. One month later, I was very pleased to find a small heap of white chocolates sitting on my desk – return gifts from my colleagues. For more on city life news and culture, see blogs.timeout.jp/en

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Promotional feature

I,TOKYO Andrea Ferrero Executive chef at Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, 34

LOCAL INSIGHT

What was your first impression of the city? I felt both the energy and the tranquility right away – even though people are busy, there’s always a kind of serenity in the air. After three months here, do you already feel like a Tokyoite? I feel like I’m learning more about the city every day, just by observing the people. I think understanding the culture is key, because it’s so different from everywhere else in the world – even from the rest of Asia.

How has working in Tokyo been so far? It’s been beautiful. Of course, there are many challenges, but I love what I do. I actually never thought about leaving Italy again, but just couldn’t turn down this chance – getting to know the food culture, the ingredients, everything. Is there anything about Japanese ingredients that’s surprised you? I recently discovered sansho [Japanese pepper], which is absolutely great. I also love the endemic vegetables, but still need to do more research – I want to discover vegetables that nobody uses; that people have forgotten about. What are you aiming for at Piacere, the signature restaurant at Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo? To have fun. We are revamping everything, in order to create a place where you feel comfortable, where

you can come feeling like yourself. I want to get away from the concept of ‘fine dining’ a little bit, from everything that’s associated with that term, and focus on the food. I always say that the restaurant isn’t a Rolls-Royce, it’s a Jeep – for me, the Jeep represents true luxury, because it allows you to go wherever you want. To me, that freedom of choice is luxury. Name one restaurant you’d like to go to in Tokyo. Narisawa [in Aoyama] – I want to see what they’re doing. I also like the backstreet places, the little places you discover on your own, that give you an authentic experience. You ride your bike to work – what do you think about cycling in Tokyo? Well, I feel like the city’s not really ready to have cyclists in the streets yet, so I’m a little scared sometimes,

but l still love it. Biking next to the Imperial Palace after a long day of work feels so refreshing! Any survival tips for visitors to Tokyo? It’s not difficult to survive here! You have everything you need – okay, maybe get a dictionary, and learn a few words of Japanese before you come. It’s very safe, a beautiful city and the people are fantastic. If you want survival tips for Italy though, come to me! Which NHK World TV show appeals to you the most? ‘J-Architect’. I love architecture and design, and if I hadn’t become a chef, then I might’ve been an architect. I think the Japanese have a great sense of aesthetics – very simple, very refined. It’s also part of what I do – when I design a dish, it’s a form of architecture, so it’s very useful for me.

IMAGE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

How did you feel when you were offered a job in Tokyo? Perplexed – because I never thought about leaving Italy again. I always looked at Tokyo as a great city, but it wasn’t at the top of my list of places to go. Yet, for a chef, Tokyo is one of the top three cities in the world, a place everyone wants to visit at least once, so I also felt excited.

To find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country, on

Best way to get to I, GLOBAL know Tokyo

Domo NHK mascot

Experience the culture of cute with ‘Kawaii International’

NHK’s lovable mascot, Domo, has a few top tips for making the most of the city

hether you’re living in Tokyo or just here for a spot of sightseeing, you’ll have way more fun if you brush up on your knowledge of the city. First, decide what kind of things you’d like to do – for example, do you have your heart set on experiencing traditional entertainment, visiting the buzzing fashion district, or exploring places that tourists don’t typically visit? Next, tune into NHK World for programs packed with information on all of the above, and more. ©NHK-TYO

Take a stroll around Harajuku or Shibuya and you’ll see girls everywhere dressed head-to-toe in kawaii (cute), girly get-ups. But did you know that within the kawaii culture, there are several sub-trends? If, for you, Tokyo is the ‘city of kawaii’ and you’re dying to join the cute ranks yourself, then this program is a mustwatch. It covers everything from street fashion to places where you can experience the culture in Tokyo, as well as products and accessories to get the look.

Left: Hosts of the show wearing delicious-looking hats. Of course the sweets aren’t real!

Right: Model/creator Yu Kimura embodies kawaii

Left: A senbei shop in Sugamo. Below left: At Tsukiji Fish Market. Below right: Enjoying touch-panel sushi

IMAGE: © SHOCHIK

You’ll always get a better feel for the heartbeat of a city if you visit locals’ neighbourhood haunts and chat to the regulars, instead of just covering the usual sightseeing spots. ‘Tokyo Eye’ takes a look at the city through the eyes of the experts. For example, in one of their recent programs, ‘The Embassy Take on Tokyo’, embassy staff from around the world served as guides. Through this program viewers could ‘tour’ Tsukiji Fish Market, where embassy chefs do their shopping, the area of Kappabashi, which specialises in kitchen supplies, and the neighbourhood of Sugamo with its popular senbei (rice cracker) shops and temples.

Get to the heart of the city with ‘Tokyo Eye’

Learn about traditional Japanese theatre with ‘Kabuki Kool’ Whether you’re crazy about kabuki or just want to see what the fuss is all about, there’s no excuse not to visit Kabuki-za theatre. But with a history that stretches back all the way to the 1600s, it’s a good idea to study up on this old form of theatre first. Knowing all about kabuki’s plays, audience etiquette and the unique make-up and costumes will only enhance the experience when you actually see it live. On ‘Kabuki Kool’, kabuki actor Somegoro Ichikawa and TV personality Haruka Christine teach you the ABCs.

your TV, computer or mobile device, visit www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/

Left: Kabuki-za theatre

[BEST OF TOKYO]

ear It’s the Y heep of the S

New Year resolutions are so passé. Here’s a better idea: make life in 2015 more interesting by trying out the gloopiest soupless Taiwanese ramen, the gutsiest Chinese, the quirkiest renovated love hotel, and a pool slide that’s like being flushed down a giant toilet. There’s plenty more where that came from, too, in our special ‘Best of Tokyo’ guide, which features 15 new restaurants reviewed by UK guest editors Guy Dimond (‘Time Out London’) and Susan Low (‘Delicious’), and a wealth of other trend tips bound to keep you inspired and entertained for the year ahead.

18 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[BEST OF TOKYO]

OUR ITE UR FAVO

RAREST SUSHI

It’s passed to you by hand, like a love letter

Sushi Rinda

Jiro may dream of sushi, but the rest of us dream of being able to get into a high-end sushi bar without the fuss of a weeksahead reservation, and not pay an emperor’s ransom for it. Sushi Rinda is one such sushi-ya, with the bonus of an engaging itamae (chef) who converses in English; Yuta Kono worked in New York for a few years. Just order the chef’s selection (omakase) and settle in for the rapidfire selection of nibbles. Besides the familiar tuna cuts and salmon roe, you’ll find seafood you rarely see outside Japan: tachiuo (cutlass fish), mirugai (giant clam), shirako (soft, sperm-filled milt sacs), hot slivers of abalone. Their signature ‘shari’ (rice) is cooked in a special steaming pot, which is rarely seen in sushi restaurants and ensures a perfect fluffiness. The small counter allows you a frontrow view of the chef’s masterful knife skills and the attention to detail in everything from the freshly hand-grated wasabi to nibbles seared to order on the glowing hibachi grill. Some sushi is placed on the counter before you; some is passed from the chef’s hand straight to yours, like a love letter. Rinda (a variant Japanese spelling of ‘Linda’, named after the owner’s daughter) is a little bit pricier than you’d expect for the neighbourhood, but an English-speaking itamae is a huge bonus if you’re curious about what, exactly, you’re eating. 2-2412 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). 03 6420 3343. rinda-tokyo. com (Japanese only). 5.30pm-11pm; closed Wed and every third Tue. Omakase with sake: around ¥28,000 for two. Reviewed by Guy Dimond For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 19

[BEST OF TOKYO]

FUNKIEST CHICKEN

Wobbliest (in a good way) dessert

Toriryori Soregashi

OUR ITE UR FAVO

A steep flight of stairs leads up from an undistinguished row of shops to this hidden flight of fancy. Soregashi (‘someone’) is dedicated to chicken, but is unlike any other roast chicken, yakitori or fast food chicken shop you’ll find. Instead you discover a sophisticated sake bar with a long bar counter and a cool jazz soundtrack. The large sake bottles on the countertop are labelled with an x-y axis, graphically depicting the sake’s style: light or heavy, cold or hot. Pick your preference, then choose one of the three set meal options. You know you’re in for a treat when the sukiyaki chicken set kicks off with steamed sushi (yep – hot rice) topped with gently poached chicken breast, followed by a contrasting trio of nibbles prettily arranged in little saucers: one with a washoku dressing, another of dried persimmon with cream cheese, plus a cocktail sausage of pork mince wrapped in chicken skin. The desserts are a treat too (see sidebar). Leave via the elevator and the staff might race down the stairs to see you off down the dimly lit street back towards Gotanda Station. 2F, 2-15-11 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa (Gotanda Station). 03 3495 1129. www.soregashi.jp/tori/. Mon-Thu 6pm-1am; Fri 6pm-2am; Sat 5pm-1am; Sun & pub hol 5pm-12am. Set meal: ¥4,800 plus 10% service charge. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

Blancmange – a simple, wobbly jelly of milk set by gelatine – has been in and out of favour in European cuisine for centuries, but we suspect the great French chef Escoffier wasn’t using green tea or purée of kabocha squash to flavour his creations. Soregashi uses both to good effect in these Japanese-style purin (puddings). Celery is used to flavour sorbet; sake to flavour ice cream, sandwiched in tiny wafers.The kitchen combines Western desserts with Eastern flavours successfully, but it also creates new Japanese classics such as warabimochi made from bracken powder, the texture of beached jellyfish; the wobbly blobs are covered in a sand of kinako, dried soy bean powder.These delightful desserts are the finale of the ¥4,800 set meal, so you can’t just pop in for the puddings.

BEEFIEST UPMARKET BARBECUE Yakiniku Steak Atsushi

In Japan, eating beef was taboo until the emperor lifted the ban on meat consumption in 1871. These days, Japanese Yamagata beef, considered by steak-fanciers the non plus ultra for its rich marbling of fat, is justifiably famed. Yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurants such as this are temples to the appreciation of beef, and Atsushi does Japanese beef proud. The interior is sleek, dark and small, like dining inside a black lacquer bento box. Gas barbecue grills are set into the glossy black marble tables, Korean style. There’s just enough English on the menu to make clear what’s what, and our host did his best to explain the various cuts with the help of a useful cow diagram. At ¥10,000-¥15,000 per person, the set menus are pretty steep, but by choosing carefully from the à la carte and ordering plenty of rice, salad, soup and crunchy, spicy kimchi, the damage can be minimised. But don’t miss out on the (admittedly pricey) prime marbled cuts as well as the leaner ‘red’ cuts: the texture and flavour are unsurpassed, and cooking the slivers yourself over hot coals is an experience not to be missed. Oenophiles with deep pockets will be pleased with the selection of by-the-glass reds. If you want to splurge on superior steak, this is the place. 1-10-7 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6804 3829. www.yakiniku-atsushi.com. Mon-Fri 5.30pm-12am; Sat & pub hol 5pm-12am; closed Sun. Set menu: from ¥10,000. Reviewed by Susan Low

Like dining inside a black lacquer bento box

20 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

DIE N E R T

CHEF

Nobuaki Fushiki of Shiojiri Jozojo

[BEST OF TOKYO]

he esteemed French chef Escoffier created haute cuisine; Nobu Matsuhisa birthed East-West fusion cooking; Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal put molecular gastronomy on the map. And now Tokyo-based chef Nobuaki Fushiki has coined a new gastronomic term, hakko-ryori: literally, ‘fermentation cuisine’. Could it be the next culinary new wave? Hakko-ryori puts fermented ingredients to the fore. The dishes on the menu at informal restaurant Shiojiri Jozojo have a common denominator – they all harness the power of koji (Aspergillus oryzae), by using ingredients such as miso, mirin, sake, hishio (soybean paste), su (vinegar) and amazake to enhance the flavour of vegetables, grains, fish and meat – ultimately, to bring out the umami, the ‘deliciousness’ that’s so essential to Japanese food. Miso, shoyu and the other traditional ingredients have been used in Japanese cuisines for centuries, in some cases millennia. But this 39-year-old chef takes it a step further than his peers, because he starts with the raw ingredients – rice, soybeans and koji – and ferments his own products from scratch. Lined up on the restaurant’s countertop are jars filled with mysterious potions in varying shades of brown – curiouslooking (and smelling) products of his experimentation, which form the basis of his sauces and marinades. In the basement below the restaurant is his fermentation workshop, where he nurtures his koji-bred young charges to forthright maturity. These are flavours you won’t find elsewhere. Fushiki moved into this restaurant in January 2014, but he started out doing a variety of cheffing jobs

including stints at Italian and French restaurants – until the fermentation bug bit, and bit hard. ‘I lost my friends and family because I spent so much time with my fermentations,’ he laughs. Lean, lithe, quick to smile and tell a joke, he’s far from the po-faced, ascetic type one might associate with a self-avowed mould-fancier. Fushiki may have coined a new culinary term, but he’s keen to point out that what he’s doing is about preserving tradition. He taught himself about fermentation by trial and error, he explains, largely because there wasn’t a Japanese chef who could teach him. The problem, he explains, is that traditional foods have gone out of fashion in Japan and there are only a few people who hold the key to the past. Traditional foods once made by hand, in the home, are now overwhelmingly factorymade. Hakko-ryori is a way of redressing the balance, in the hope that the traditional methods will not be lost. Fushiki passes over his business card, which reads ‘kamose’ – meaning ‘let it ferment’. His career, it seems, is building up a lively, kojipowered head of steam. He’s already published several books and is soon to give a talk about fermentation at the Culinary Institute of America in San Francisco. There he’ll doubtless find a ready audience among the avid fermentation enthusiasts nicknamed ‘fermentos’, who are firmly committed to the kamose cause. ‘Hakko-ryori’, ‘Kamose cooking’ – they have a good ring to them, and it may just catch on. Interviewed and reviewed by Susan Low

He’s coined a new term: fermentation cuisine

Fermentation and experimentation at Shiojiri Jozojo Chef Nobuaki Fushiki brings a special spin to what still looks like an ordinary neighbourhood wine bar; the room looks comfortable, not at all designed, the culinary equivalent of an old pair of slippers.The menu begins with simple options (lunchtime bento boxes start at ¥700) but the bill can ramp up quickly if you order more unusual items such as horsemeat sashimi. Highlights of the self-styled hakko-ryori on our visit included the chef’s version of a dish of cuttlefish shiokara, marinated in hishio and amazake, rather than, as is traditional, in its own guts, and resulting in a less salty and pungent flavour; a platter of seafood lightly marinated in various forms of koji products; and sanma (Pacific saury), the filleted fish firmly textured and sweet. Little surprises from the chef can be part of a meal, such as a glass of dark mirin that resembled an aged sherry more than a cooking liquor. Shiojiri Jozojo’s not for everyone, but for true believers in traditional Japanese cooking, he’s an inspiration. 1-45-13 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen Station). 03 6407 2362. www.facebook.com/siojirijozojo. 6pm-12pm.Approximately ¥3,500 per course.

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 21

[BEST OF TOKYO]

MOST CREATIVE NINE-COURSE ITALIAN Heinz Beck

Elevated views of the Imperial Palace canal

A European joke in several languages goes: ‘In heaven, cooks are French, the lovers Italian; in hell, the bosses are Italian, the cops German.’ It’s a good thing, then, that German-born Heinz Beck chose chef as his first profession, then moved on to being an acclaimed restaurateur in Italy before opening this Marunouchi branch in November 2014. The uppermost floor has elevated views of the Imperial Palace canal with high-rise prices to match; the nine-course tasting menu is delivered with Swiss precision and German efficiency. Make sure you have at least two hours spare to appreciate eye-candy such as freeze-dried purple potato with a ‘snow’ of pomegranate, or a tennis ball of frozen red berry juice. It’s all terribly clever, but such technically brilliant craft serves as mere distraction to the clientele’s business meetings and anniversary dates. The Sensi restaurant on the ground floor is less expensive, livelier, and more recognisably Italian in approach, with excellent pasta dishes among the more affordable options; as a culinary experience it’s intoxicating and extraordinary. Get there before the cops shut it down. 1-1-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station, follow the canalside path from Hibiya-dori towards the Palace Hotel Tokyo). 03 3284 0030. www.heinzbeck.jp. Mon-Sat 11.30am-1.30pm, 5.30pm-9pm; closed Sun. Nine-course tasting menu: ¥19,000. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

RICHEST INGREDIENT COMBO

N R E T N I

Andaz Tavern

The flagship restaurant of the Andaz Tokyo hotel has everything you’d expect of an international luxury brand. It’s dressed to impress, has tinkling live piano music, aerial views across Tokyo, and an international menu of luxury ingredients with prices to match. Yet it’s far more than just another expense account restaurant. On our two visits – breakfast and dinner – we were impressed by the number of families dining together, and the friendly, relaxed atmosphere. The kitchen is also clearly running in top gear. A salad of artichoke hearts was accompanied by creamy burrata and avocado, simply dressed with Austrian pumpkin seed oil; Miyazaki beef carpaccio was smothered in slivers of black truffle. Sea urchin was held in a soup bowl by a dollop of parsnip cream that dissolved into a lobster bisque poured over it. Both fish and meat cookery were impeccable, for example in a perfectly rare beef sirloin that was crusted with pepper and served with a red and golden beetroot. The jury’s still out on the caramelised avocado set in a tumbler of bitter chocolate mousse. But for a special occasion where money’s no object, Andaz might fit the bill. 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato (Toranomon Station). 03 6830 7739. tinyurl.com/andaz-tavern. Daily 6.30am 10.30am, 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-10pm. Four-course tasting menu: from ¥10,000. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

Miyazaki beef smothered in black truffle

22 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

OUR ITE UR FAVO

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GUTSIEST CHINESE Kuronekoyoru Ginza

Think mountain goat stew or duck brains

Forget what you think you know about Chinese food before crossing the portals of Night of the Black Cat (as the name translates). Glitzy Ginza is not where you’d expect to find gutsy, spicy Chinese food in an atmosphere reminiscent of a Sichuan village. Don’t come here looking for sweet and sour pork either – you’re more likely to find dishes such as mountain goat stew or duck brains on the lengthy menu, which also includes seasonal dishes aplenty and Japaneseinspired starters such as scallop and sea urchin sashimi. Our main course of lamb stew with mushrooms came in a bubbling hotpot. Slow-cooked and rich, it was deeply savoury and set alight by a handful of dried chillies, which made for a tongue-tingling umami-fest of a dish. Don’t be scared to try the Chinese alcohol such as distilled baijiu or huangjiu (yellow wine, of which Shaoxing is an example); a tasting flight of three varieties of the latter assured us that this Chinese wine made from grain is worthy of more attention. We paid about ¥8,000 for two, including drinks and cover charge, which is excellent value. The Japanese chefs here trained in China, and there’s clearly something that’s been gained in translation. Try it and find out – or miss out. Note that there are no English staff or menu, but if you point to the picture of the food you’d like, that’ll do. 8F, 7-8-15 Ginza, Chuo (Shimbashi Station). 03 6280 6464. kuronekoyoru.com. Mon-Fri 6pm-12am; Sat 6pm-11pm; closed Sun & pub hol. Reviewed by Susan Low

L A N O I N AT

BEST ‘EAST AND WEST’ BRUNCH Eggcellent

At weekends you’ll find a queue outside this brunch place in a Roppongi Hills shopping mall. As the name suggests, eggs are cooked every which way: omelettes, poached, pancakes. The Half & Half Benedict is half English muffin with bacon and poached egg topped with hollandaise sauce; the other, Japanese Benedict, is a rice cake with avocado, marinated tuna, poached egg and barley miso sauce with lotus root flakes. Many young women frequent the place, partly because it’s affordable in a pricey mall. Another part of the attraction is the family-friendly atmosphere; baby chairs, children’s books, colouring crayons and pads are all provided. The açai smoothie, made using the in-vogue Brazilian fruit, is well worth the ¥800 charged. 1F Metro Hat/Hollywood Plaza, 6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 3423 0089. eggcellent.co.jp. Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat, Sun & pub hol 8am-9pm. Meal for two with drinks: around ¥4,000. Reviewed by Guy Dimond For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 23

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FISHIEST RAMEN IN THE ’BURBS

CHEAP

Ramen Koike

This ramen bar used to specialise in tsukemen, the ‘dry’ noodle and soup combo. But since the autumn of 2014 they’ve innovated with a dish that mixes traditional paitan (slow-cooked chicken soup, in this case simmered for two days) with niboshi, small dried anchovies. Blue-on-white boxes of these niboshi teeter between the plate glass window and the diners, like a Hokusai wave ready to break. But it’s the aroma of the fish that

hits you first: pungent like a freshly opened tin of anchovies, yet the salty stock tastes mainly of umami savouriness. If this sounds too fishy, a different version of the soup is seasoned chicken paitan. The standard toppings include a big curl of roast pork, chicken meatball, chicken breast, nori sheet and a mizuna leaf garnish. You pay before eating, selecting from the ticket machine near the entrance; it’s written

GLOOPIEST SOUPLESS RAMEN Menya Hanabi

The outside of this ramen-ya is decorated like a box of firecrackers, but the real fireworks take place in the kitchen. Make your selection at the ticket machine – you’ll need help with this if you don’t read Japanese – and take your place at the brightly-lit L-shaped counter for a bowl of maze-soba (soupless ramen) topped with raw egg yolk, a spicy mince of pork and beef, spring onions, matchsticks of nori, powdered dried fish, and chopped raw garlic (set the latter ingredient aside unless you’re dating a vampire later). The many custom versions include an additional chashu (roast pork) topping, but we found enough meat in the standard version. Stir up the nicely textured wheat noodles to a gloopy mix and eat your fill. The queue attests to the popularity of this branch of a Nagoya ramen-ya; arrive before the opening time of 6pm, or be prepared to stand in line for half an hour. 2-8-16 Okubo, Shinjuku (Higashi-Shinjuku Station). 03 6278 9995. ameblo.jp/n-allstars81. Tue-Fri 11am-2pm, 6pm-9.30pm; Sat, Sun 11.00am-2pm, 6pm-9.30pm; closed Mon, second Tue. Meal for two: around ¥2,000. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

Take up your place for a bowl of maze-soba

24 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

They mix traditional paitan with niboshi

in Japanese only, but the pictures make it clear enough. 4-19-18 Kami-Kitazawa, Setagaya (Kami-Kitazawa Station). www.facebook.com/tsukemenkoike. 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-10pm; closed Fri, first and third Thurs. Ramen bowl: ¥750 each, ¥100 for extra noodles. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

E AT S

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CRISPIEST ALL-NIGHT FISH AND CHIPS

OUR ITE UR FAVO

Malins Named after Mr Malin, said to have opened the first fish and chip shop in London back in 1860, this place is a little slice of Britain. The kiosk-like shop is decked out in white and blue, there’s a framed picture of the Queen on the wall, and bottles of malt vinegar adorn the few small tables in the dining area (takeaway is available too). The only thing missing is the waft of eau-de-chip fat that usually accompanies a post-pub chip stop in Blighty, but Malins is all the better for that. The menu includes battered sausages and pies, but the solitary fish option of cod – sustainably sourced, from Japan – is the reason to visit (or to call up and order, since they recently started a delivery service). The taste and texture is just as it should be: a hot, crisp carapace encasing flaky, moist flesh. Chunky, perfectly fried chips meet the gold standard too. True Brit drinks such as Fentimans Cola or Brew Dog’s Punk IPA round off the experience. 7-12-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 5413 6851. www.malins.jp. Daily 11am-9am. ¥1,300 (regular size cod and chips) or ¥1,500 (large). Reviewed by Susan Low

HOTTEST THAI-STYLE CHICKEN RICE Kaithong

Despite Kaithong’s bubblegum-pink and stainless-steel brashness, there’s something Henry Ford black about this Shibuya newcomer: you can have any dish you like, as long as it’s Hainanese-style chicken rice (Khao Man Kai). There’s much to be said for sticking to what you do best, and the chicken rice here is very good – good enough to queue for (and you’ll probably have to). For ¥800 you get a plate of flavourful chicken poached until tender, perched atop a mound of aromatic Thai rice; plus a bowl of chicken broth, a soft drink, a fistful of fresh coriander and – the pièce de resistance – a little bowl of fiery, chilli-spiked dipping sauce that reveals its Thai ownership (and can be habit-forming). The original Kaithong has been a Bangkok institution since the ’60s, but this outlet of the Thai chain is the first in Tokyo. Find out what all the fuss is about – but don’t say we didn’t warn you if you find you just can’t get enough. 3-15-2 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6805 1202. raan-kaithong-pratunam.jp. Daily 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm. Reviewed by Susan Low

Served with a fiery, chillispiked dipping sauce

HOMELIEST LUNCH Little Pie Factory For Aussies, Brits and Americans, pies are one of the most nostalgia-inducing of comestibles. The saying ‘As American as apple pie’ gives a clue to the cultural importance of this sweet object of desire. The pies at this impossibly cute shop, which opened in November 2014, don’t disappoint. The gorgeous aroma of buttery pastry grabs you as you walk through the door, and the pies – both sweet and savoury – are hot, flaky, hand-held pockets of bliss. The menu of 15-plus pies changes monthly. We tried a couple of classics: one meaty, one with apple; both had beautiful golden glazed tops, plenty of filling and spot-on spicing. Pies cost from ¥350-¥480, are good value, and just the right size for an afternoon pick-me-up with a tea or coffee. 5-16-6 Minami-Azubu, Minato (Hiroo Station). 03 5791 3075. www.facebook.com/littlepiefactory. Daily 9am-6pm; closed for New Year hol. Reviewed by Susan Low

MOST SOPHISTICATED FRIES And the Friet In cities such as Amsterdam, a trip to the friet (chip van) provides essential ballast at the end of a boozy night out; it’s a fast fix. Making a friet stop (or frite stop, if you speak French rather than Dutch) at this Hiroo takeaway is a more sophisticated experience. You may have to queue, which gives you the chance to peruse the menu and choose which deep-fried goodies are put in your cardboard carton. First, the chips: skin-on Japanese-style skinnies, wide Belgian-style, curly ones, wedges, or even a sweet potato version. Then pick the sauce. Mayo is de rigueur in Belgium and the truffle, basil and honey-mustard versions here pass muster. To round it out, choose a side dish of fried fish fillet, sausage, falafel or, as we did, crunchy deep-fried chicken and the ‘popcorn’ shrimp. This feast-in-a-box will set you back from ¥850, extra for a bottle of Belgian beer – although if you’re a cheap date, a small cone of chips is from ¥520. Guilty pleasures needn’t cost you dear. 5-161 Hiroo, Shibuya (Hiroo Station). 03 6409 6916. andthefriet.com. Daily 10am-9pm. Reviewed by Susan Low For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 25

[BEST OF TOKYO]

S K C SNA

HEALTHIEST

(ALBEIT LEAST APPETISING)

SNACK Natto Club

OUR ITE UR FAVO

BEST FLAT WHITE Good People & Good Coffee

Out of the many deserving coffee shops that have recently opened in Tokyo, if we had to use our trembling, caffeine-addled fingers to place the crown on just one it would be this hipster haven near Higashiyama Park. The relaxed enclave that it’s carved out of the creative atmosphere of the Rainbow Soko warehouse is decorated like a garage, with an assortment of tools on the wall and lumber hanging casually from storage units attached to the ceiling. Seating comes in the form of worn old

furniture strewn around the room and three stools placed at the counter. As well as being one of the few places in Tokyo you can get a flat white (a double shot of espresso with steamed milk, priced here at ¥450) they offer their own original blends, roasted every Tuesday. Currently there are two: Johnny B Goode, rich tasting with a hint of caramel, and Tomando, a slightly fruity brew named after a song by Cuban musician and coffee lover Perez Prado. 3-18-9 Higashiyama, Meguro (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 5725 1303. goodpeopleandgoodcoffee.com

This is probably kind of like joining Chess Club: not everyone’s cup of tea. But Natto Club celebrates all kinds of the healthy fermented beans, with set meals (from ¥750) that pair it with specially chosen rice and cooked pottages. The simple combination is surprisingly satisfying, proving that there’s more to natto than just stinky beans. 8-4 Shin-Ogawamachi, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). 03 6280 7160. tinyurl.com/TOTnatto-club

There’s more to natto than just stinky beans

They offer original blends, roasted every Tuesday

ICIEST TRADITIONAL TREAT Yukiusagi Originally a summer-only dessert at the soba shop upstairs, the kakigori at this joint proved so popular that the owners decided to rent an extra space just for the purpose of serving deluxe shaved ice. Their innovative flavour combinations include the popular ‘strawberry cheese’ and the curious ‘summer pumpkin caramel’, but the star of the show is the ‘watermelon’ (¥850), which is limited to 20 servings per day. The beautiful creation features a compote of watermelon and syrup on top, while deliciously sweet fruit pieces can be found further down. 3-18-2 Komazawa, Setagaya (SakuraShinmachi, Komazawa Daigaku stations). 03 3410 7007. tinyurl. com/TOTyukiusagi 26 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

BEST FOR MIDNIGHT CRAVINGS Doughnut Plant Kichijoji Central Kitchen Hardly a revelation, but doughnuts taste so much better fresh: a complete selection of NY-born Doughnut Plant’s just-fried, all-natural treats attracts fans to a residential Kichijoji backstreet every night from 10pm. The most popular attraction is their Sugar Doughnut, an airy but munch-alicious, deceptively simple specimen only available here, but the rich, almost bitter Valrhona Chocolate is what really got our juices flowing. Get there on time – stock can run out in minutes. 2-18-16 Kichijoji Higashicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). www.doughnutplant.jp

[BEST OF TOKYO]

BEST ROOFTOP COCKTAIL SPOT Andaz Tokyo Rooftop Bar

OUR ITE UR FAVO

BARS

The new Andaz hotel does everything with great aplomb, not least the rooftop bar on the 52nd floor, which has bracing vistas of the Tokyo skyline. And it’s not just the views that are bracing: although the roof is covered, some side walls are exposed, so you’ll be grateful for those huge gas heaters in winter. If the chill’s too much you can move in closer to the bar counter, which is busier but also cosier. The drinks list covers many well-chosen wines by the glass, but it’s the cocktail list that sets it apart, with spirits blended with fresh fruit juices or teas (most of these costing around ¥1,750). The whisky and sake lists are good if not extensive; only the beer list is limited. Those convincinglooking candles are battery-lit, so there’s no chance of setting your Prada sleeves alight as you lean across the table to exchange meishi. 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato (Toranomon Station). 03 6830 1234. tokyo.andaz.hyatt.com. Reviewed by Guy Dimond

SEXIEST RAMEN BAR OWNER Ramen Bar Snack Izakaya (aka ‘Boobs Ramen’)

SHINIEST NEW DJ BAR DJ Bar Bridge

A one-woman show run by former pin-up model Takako Hayakawa, this noodle bar has built up an army of regulars on the strength of both its extra-special salt-based soup and the owner’s voluptuous appearance (hence its nickname: Oppai Ramen, literally ‘Boobs Ramen’). Although the latter can be enjoyed at all times, the ramen is served only when Hayakawa feels like it, making this one something of a Holy Grail for noodle hunters. When it is available, though, the shioshoyu ramen (¥650, ¥900 for a large size) is a masterpiece: bathed in a katsuodashi soup and stacked with green onion and kombu kelp, it’s the perfect finisher for a long night of boozing. 2F Endo Bldg, 2-15-10 Takaban, Meguro (Gakugei-Daigaku Station). tinyurl. com/TOTramen-bar

A Holy Grail for noodle hunters

Movers and shakers from Global Hearts, the folks behind Shibuya clubs Vision and Air, moved boldly in opening this shiny new DJ bar on the top floor of a multi-tenant building right in front of Shibuya Station. The spectacular views are combined with a lengthy list of resident spinners, including Tokyo scene veterans DJ Nori and Toshiyuki Goto. The sound system, courtesy of domestic maker Rey Audio, is also top-grade for a smallish space like this. Audio aficionados shouldn’t have anything to complain about, while laymen will at least appreciate the reasonably priced drinks. 10F Parkside Kyodo Bldg, 1-25-6 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6427 6568. bridge-shibuya.com

NIFTIEST STATION NOOK N3331 The long-closed Manseibashi Station complex has undergone an impressive revival, and this cool café is its most recognisable symbol. Squeezed right in the middle of the Chuo Line tracks, N3331 is the perfect place for train geeks, but it’s also a nice spot for enjoying a long and lazy lunch. The café turns into a nihonshu-focused bar at night. 1-25-4 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda (Akihabara Station). 03 5295 2788. n3331.com

RACIEST DRINKING HOLE Hideaway Garage Love model car racing? Then you’ll fit right in with the regulars at Koenji’s Hideaway Garage, a bar where most of the floor area is occupied by a lovingly crafted miniature race track, and the walls are lined with vintage models, spare parts and liquor bottles. Most customers are local salarymen who come straight from the office to get their fix of burnt rubber and competitive excitement, and spend hours on end practising for the open competitions that occasionally take place here. They’re all very welcoming towards newcomers, making this a comfy place to revive your childhood hobby. Two hours’ access costs ¥2,000, including all-you-can-drink booze and some snacks. 3F Tomioka Bldg, 4-5-3 Koenji-Minami, Suginami (Koenji Station). tinyurl.com/ TOThideaway-garage

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 27

[BEST OF TOKYO]

BEST FOR MAYONNAISE ADDICTS Mayoterrace

AROUND

Complete with giant mayo bottleshaped room

Dedicated to Japan’s favourite creamy condiment, Mayoterrace isn’t actually a terrace at all: this quirky facility in the western suburb of Sengawa is a former Kewpie mayonnaise factory turned ‘experience space’, complete with a giant mayo bottle-shaped room and more creepily cute ‘Kewpies’ (the brand’s signature character) than you can shake a stick at. The free, guided tours are led by Kewpie employees, trained to answer every mayonnaise-related question you can think of, and include a tasting session. 2-5-7 Sengawacho, Chofu (Sengawa Station). 03 5384 7770. www.kewpie.co.jp/mayoterrace

OUR ITE UR FAVO

CHICEST ECO BRAND AND SPA F Organics

ZIPPIEST STREET CRUISING Akiba Cart Your friends no match for you at Mario Kart? Well, then you might as well take to the streets of Tokyo for some challenge, offered in the form of real-life go-karting. The cheery guys and gals at Akiba Cart do one-day rentals, teach you how to operate the light but speedy buggy and suggest attractive destinations – how about a swing around Shibuya’s Scramble Crossing, Roppongi or Akihabara? Dress up as a Mario Bros character for added effect. B1F Sasage Bldg, 2-4-6 Sotokanda, Chiyoda (Akihabara Station). 03 6206 4752. Akibanavi.net 28 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Usually, when you first arrive in Japan, there are a few things that go wrong in the beauty department. Previously luscious hair turns to frizzy straw overnight. Skin gets so dry you can scratch on the word ‘dry’. Pores get blocked by summer sweat and city pollutants. And all the products that used to work for you no longer do a thing to combat the above set of problems. So begins the hunt for a new beauty regime, but the scarcity of natural and organic products on offer, and the fact ingredients are usually listed in Japanese, only add to the frustration. Nodding your head in agreement yet? Well, here is a solution – a new spa in Daikanyama founded by Yoko Tagami, who is passionate about ethical products and cosmetics composition. She wanted to change the perception of organic beauty products among Japanese women, who generally tend to prefer stylish packaging and well-known brands. Tagami’s ‘eco chic’ skin-care

[BEST OF TOKYO]

TO WN

CUTEST FAMILY ATTRACTION

Penguins at Inokashira Park Zoo When Inokashira Park Zoo held a public unveiling of four new penguins in March 2014, it was the first time in 23 years that the waddling crowd-pleasers had been included in their line-up. Since then they’ve become a star attraction and – along with the Ghibli Museum, the beautiful lake and variety of weekend performers – another compelling reason to visit one of Tokyo’s best parks. The four penguins consist of two pairs, male and female, brought in from the Tokyo Sea Life Park. As Humboldt penguins, which originate from South America, they’re easily recognised by their black breast band, a fleshy pink base to their bills. Though the crowds ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the speed and prowess of their swimming, it’s their less proficient tottering that attracts the warmest reactions. 1-17-6 Gotenyama, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 04 2246 1100. www.tokyo-zoo.net/english/ino/main.html

The waddling crowd-pleasers are a star attraction

range is based on four main active ingredients: cotton thistle, demask rose, pomegranate and frankincense oil, while the moisture-balancing haircare range includes ingredients such as marine seaweed extracts, argan oil and olive oil. The spa is housed in a century-old Japanese home that’s been beautifully renovated with a calming black-and-white wood interior. They offer facial and body treatments – from ¥5,000 for a 30-minute ‘express’ treatment and ¥10,000 for a 60-minute treatment – and you can also purchase the products after you’re done, while enjoying a complimentary cup of herbal tea and relaxing on the comfy white couch. We recommend the silky Moisture Foaming Wash (from ¥700 for 30ml) and the Moisture Milk (¥800 for 25ml) which is a mix of avocado and rich oils such as argan and macadamia. 3-18 Sarugakucho, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 6455 0221. f-organics. jp/salon.html

BIGGEST FLUSH The Dekasla slide at Tokyo Summerland

Get the complete toilet bowl experience

Tokyo Summerland may be most famous for its wave pool at peak season but its newest ride also went viral when it opened in the summer. The ‘Dekasla’ – a contraction comprised of the Japanese word ‘dekai’, meaning big, and ‘slide’ – Tokyo Summerland may be most famous for its wave pool at peak season, but its newest ride also went viral when it opened in the summer. The ‘Dekasla’ – a contraction of the Japanese word ‘dekai’, meaning big, and ‘slide’ – begins as a winding tunnel, but after a couple of turns it drops into a giant funnel, where you’ll slide up and down the sides before being flushed into the pool below. The ride is open only during peak season (July to September) and entrance is excluded from the regular admission ticket – you can either purchase a ‘Free Pass’ or pay ¥500 per ride. 600 Kamiyotsugi, Akiruno (Akigawa Station). 04 2558 6511. www.summerland.co.jp/english For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 29

[BEST OF TOKYO]

G N I P P O SH MOST LONGWINDED AND RETRO WAY TO PERSONALISE BUSINESS CARDS First Universal Press On the outskirts of Asakusa, an enterprising shop is introducing newbies to the dying art of letterpress printing. At First Universal Press, you can customise your own business cards, tea mats, birthday cards, books, and whatever marvellous idea you have in mind by arranging your own types. It only costs ¥5,000 to rent the atelier for three hours, and the spot houses all the tools that are needed to run your creativity onto paper. More importantly, you’ll always have the close attention of owner Josuke Taniyama, who’ll guide you through the complicated steps of setting up the letterpress. Who would’ve thought printing a simple card could be so time-consuming? All your thoughts and troublesome steps will eventually produce a one-of-a-kind business card – a nice conversation starter in the right company. Book in advance (preferably one week beforehand) at info@fupress.jp. 2-7-8 Kotobuki, Taito (Tawaramachi Station). 03 5830 3238. www.fupress.jp

Run your creativity onto paper

MOST FANATICAL ‘CAT’ BOOKSTORE Nyanko-do

While Jimbocho’s bookstore-filled streets look increasingly sepia-tinged, an accidental turn into a previous decade, Nyanko-do stands out as an exception that is managing the impossible by achieving success in a world of Kindles and iPads. Attracting a steady stream of cat lovers looking to add some furry cuteness to their day, this smallish but well-stocked corner of the venerable Anegawa bookshop features exclusively feline-related tomes, photo books, magazines, calendars, quirky little accessories and much more. Encouraged by his daughter, the owner here opened the section as a attempt to revive Anegawa’s struggling business, and the shop quickly found a loyal following on Facebook, where the staff regularly upload pictures of the resident kitty, Rikuo. The purring owner makes it clear that business is booming, with men and women apparently equally keen to browse the colourful, amply stocked shelves. If cats and books both enjoy a lofty position on your ‘favourite things’ list, then this is exactly what you didn’t know you needed in your life for 2015. 2-2 Kanda-Jimbocho, Chiyoda (Jimbocho Station). 03 3263 5755.

Attracting a steady stream of cat lovers

SOFTEST ERGONOMIC VIBRATOR Tenga Iroha Fit There’s a reason Tenga has been described as the ‘Apple of the sex industry’. The Japanese sex-toy brand has been bringing men luxurious pleasure since 2005, notably with its masturbation ‘Cup’ and ‘Egg’ masturbation aids, and has picked up awards for its design aesthetics. In 2013, the folks at Tenga launched a line for women called Iroha, as well as a range for couples called Vi-Bo. Last year they gave women even more love with two brand-new ergonomically designed ‘massagers’ under the name Iroha Fit. Now, any woman who’s dabbled in the art of self-pleasure will know that the majority of those gaudy vibrators sold at stores like M’s in Akihabara are too hard, too plastic, too tacky, too big, too… the complaints go on. Tenga comes to the rescue with this pair of soft, silky and flexible dildettes (if that’s a word), both of which are crescent-shaped to match the curve of the natural female shape. The Mikazuki is a good option for beginners – not too intimidating and with four different speeds. The Minamo also has four speeds but is slightly thicker, with a wave-shaped design that will give you that extra shudder. Both products cost around ¥10,000 and are beautifully packaged in a sleek black case (we’re almost tempted to display it on the mantelpiece it looks so pretty) that doubles up as a recharging platform – simply plug it into your computer or wall socket and leave it to charge for 120 minutes (battery lasts 90 minutes). iroha-tenga.com/en 30 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[BEST OF TOKYO]

Promotional feature

Best subculture shopping LOCAL INSIGHT

P’Parco makes its mark on trendsetters

BEST FOR CREATIVE WRITERS

In an interesting turnaround, subculture-savvy ladies are now flocking to Ikebukuro, an area that’s overcoming its reputation as merely a gateway to the somewhat passé Saitama. Looking for an alternative to masculine Akihabara with its maid cafés and electronics superstores, these trendsetters feel especially at home in the P’Parco shopping complex, which recently received a huge boost thanks to a number of eye-catching new openings.

Ink Stand by Kakimori

NICO NICO HONSHA

Asakusa stationery giant Kakimori is the force behind this ink-only specialist shop that allows you to create your very own colour. Choose three basic colours from a range of 16 options, use the store’s mixing kit to cook up your personal concoction, and then dip your quill in to write one certifiably custom letter. If you’d rather choose a bottle of standard ink for your trusty pen, try Kakimori’s main outlet instead. 4-20-12 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 03 3864 3890. www.kakimori.com

Perhaps the most impressive of these is the home base of popular video-sharing site Nico Nico Douga, which moved its offices here from Harajuku in October 2014. Serving as a shrine to the deliciously geeky culture that’s sprung up thanks to the site, Nico Nico Honsha houses an official shop, a theme café and a pro-grade studio while also hosting occasional meet-ups for the Nico Nico community. Rotating its themes regularly, the café serves a variety of anime-inspired food and drink, including quirky creations like rice-only set meals, and boasts a unique online-to-reality ordering system: users broadcasting live to their fans while sitting at the bar counter occasionally get served special treats, courtesy of viewers using Nico Nico ‘credits’ to buy their favourite performer a little something.

B2F OUR ITE UR FAVO

EVANGELION STORE

HIPPEST SHOPPING HEAVEN La Kagu

Opened in October 2014, this new Kagurazaka landmark plays a handful of different roles, including street fashion hotspot, bookstore and café. The La Kagu building was designed by Kengo Kuma and Associates, and is built around a 1965 storage facility that’s been carefully revamped while maintaining its Showa-era charm. Choose from brands like Acne, Maison Martin Margiela and Marni, browse Nordic vintage furniture and 3,000-odd books, then enjoy a light lunch around the long wooden tables. Check their website for event information – farmers’ markets, lectures and other events are held regularly, both inside the building and on the comfy outdoor terrace. 67 Yaraicho, Shinjuku (Kagurazaka Station). 03 5227 6977. lakagu.com

REJET SHOP

If you’re unfamiliar with ‘otome games’, a genre consisting mostly of dating sims targeted at lovesick ladies, this shop run by popular developer Rejet may appear perplexing.Those in the know, however, will find the selection of CDs, games, collectibles and more far too good to pass up on. P’PARCO 1-50-35 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima 03 5391 8000. ikebukuro.parco.jp Open 11am to 9pm daily

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It’s a streetfashion hotspot, bookstore and café

The official retail outlet for Hideaki Anno’s ragingly popular anime franchise ‘Evangelion’ should be able to satisfy all your mecha needs, with everything from clothing to cookies on sale here. Keep an eye out for the limitededition goodies, too.

[BEST OF TOKYO]

A R T & C U LT U R E

It’s now closer to its original 1933 glory

GRANDEST RENOVATION Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum Housed in the Art Deco mansion once inhabited by Prince Asaka, the Teien was always one of the capital’s most handsome art museums, even if it wasn’t necessarily the most rewarding exhibition space. That’s all changed with its recently completed three-year renovation, which added a wellequipped annex complex that’s every bit as striking as the main building. The new galleries provide added elbowroom for more ambitious exhibitions, and they’ll also be used for special events (keep an eye out for the ‘Ignition Box’ programme of experimental film, music and media art performances during the coming year). Make no mistake, though: the mansion is still the real star of the show, and it’s looking even grander now that it’s been restored closer to its original 1933 glory. Henri Rapin’s opulent fittings and murals have been given a full overhaul, and they’ve even reproduced the original wallpaper that once adorned the Prince’s sitting room. For a rare insight into pre-war Imperial opulence, look no further. 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato (Meguro Station). 03 3443 0201. www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp

BEST NEW JAPANESE ART AND SOUVENIR SHOP Wa Space

OUR ITE UR FAVO

MOST TALKEDABOUT GALLERY OPENING

As a gallery, select shop and event space that celebrates the very best of Japanese design – particularly the kind that fuses traditional and modern styles – Wa Space is everything it should be. It’s not obvious – you’ll find it up a small side street in Akasaka, a beautiful wooden sliding door giving way to the wonders within. The interior is elegantly designed, with rough wooden beams acting as partitions in the L-shaped space, dividing it up into an exhibition area and shop, while allowing light to circulate and the eye to wander. And the products on display are very clearly curated to appeal both to those with an eye for serious art and those who are looking to upgrade their souvenir shopping. You might find a piece by Ryoichi Kobayashi for ¥250,000 but you could just as easily pick up a pair of colourful zori slippers for ¥4,200. Wa Space holds monthly artist exhibitions and regularly rotates their product selection, with all items also available via their online shop. 4-3-27 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka Station). 03 4520 9335. www.the-wa-group.com

Blum & Poe Tokyo

Kingmakers of Japanese contemporary art

Single-room galleries come and go in Tokyo, but few provoke the kind of kerfuffle that greeted the opening of this Angeleno interloper last autumn. Hardly surprising: gallery owners Tim Blum and Jeff Poe are the kingmakers of Japanese contemporary art. The duo kick-started the international careers of Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara in the ’90s, and have gone on to champion a range of post-war Japanese art in the West. Twenty years after opening the original Blum & Poe in Los Angeles, they unveiled a pair of new galleries in New York and Tokyo last year, and say they’re hoping for some fruitful cross-pollination between the three cities. With that in mind, the inaugural exhibition at their new Tokyo venture – in an airy, welllit space overlooking Harajuku Station and Meiji Shrine – was a solo show by hostels LA artist Dave Muller. But Blum & Poe didn’t just open the Tokyo gallery to showcase overseas artists: you can expect them to throw the spotlight on homegrown talent in the future, too. 1-14-34 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku Station). 03 3475 1631. www.blumandpoe.com 32 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

[BEST OF TOKYO]

BEST HIGH-ROLLER HIDEOUT Aman Tokyo

Uber-private luxury resort brand Aman is known for attracting celebrities, business high-rollers and others who prefer to keep their whereabouts a secret. In a surprise move, Tokyo’s Otemachi business district saw the opening of Aman’s first city property in December 2014. The exclusive hotel is located on the upper floors of the Otemachi Tower building and marks a new high in urban opulence. Otemachi Tower, 1-56 Otemachi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). www.amanresorts.com

Marking a new high in urban opulence

S L E HOT

OUR ITE UR FAVO

QUIRKIEST LOVE HOTEL RENOVATION Khaosan World Asakusa Ryokan Hostel

See this bathtub? Look a little closer. It’s lit up, you say, how interesting. It is indeed. It also has a see-through base, which means that anyone lounging in the bedroom below can look up and see your elegantly placed, um, socks. Back in the ’80s, when this Asakusa establishment functioned solely as a love hotel, there were certainly more interesting bathtub antics at play here, but today this room has been renovated along with the rest of the hotel to accommodate travellers. The see-through bathtub remains purely as novelty factor – which is exactly what’s made Khaosan World Asakusa Ryokan & Hostel a hit with visitors to Japan. This branch of the Khaosan group, which owns several similar hostels around the country, has cleverly kept many of the original love hotel quirks while updating and modernising the facilities. So what you get is a host of affordable, characterful rooms, each with a theme or feel of its own, in the heart of one of Tokyo’s most popular tourist spots (it’s just a short hop from Tokyo Skytree). And if you’re keen to try the love hotel experience, you’ll be pleased to know that Khaosan Asakusa has kept 20 percent of its rooms aside for curious couples who want to enjoy treats like a personal Jacuzzi, bedside light controls and mirrored walls. 3-15-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3843 0153. www.khaosan-tokyo. com/en/world

Each room has a theme of its own

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Eating & Drinking

Meals on wheels Food trucks are trending in Tokyo. Cal Widdall eats his way through the wraps, pizzas, Thai and curry dishes on offer

treet food in Tokyo is no longer limited to takoyaki and yakisoba stalls pitched at festivals. Recently, the food truck scene has surged in quantity, quality and variety, and some of the best meals in the city now come on four wheels. We’ve picked six favourites – some are independent, others are mobile satellites of restaurants, and a couple are stationary trucks focused on one location. All are worth queuing up in the cold for. WISH FRESH SALAD Speciality: design-your-own salads and wraps Wish Fresh offers customisable salads and wraps with a simple premise: choose four toppings from a selection including lotus root, mushrooms, bacon, bell peppers and black olives, then one of six home-made dressings (honey mustard is the most popular and for good reason). The owner, Atsushi, came up with the idea for his ‘kitchen

car’ while studying film production in New York, where a deli near his language school introduced him to the concept of salad as a main meal. When he returned to Tokyo he started the business, first stationing himself at the Arco Tower in Meguro and soon adding Aoyama’s Farmer’s Market @ UNU as a weekend location. Next he plans to crowdfund a restaurant. This winter, a bone-warming ginger carrot soup has been added to the menu at ¥350 for a small portion and ¥500 for large. The truck’s popularity means that all the food is often sold out by midafternoon, so get there early. And, if you’re unlucky enough to arrive too late, note that the van also has a selection of drinks for drowning hungry sorrows. Sparkling wine and bottled beer are sold yearround, but we recommend their seasonal tipple for winter, a slightly spicy yuzu-ginger apple cider (¥400). Find it Arco Tower Meguro

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Gajoen: 1-8-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). 11.30am-2.30pm Wed & Fri. Farmer’s Market @ UNU: United Nations University Square, 5-5370 Jingumae, Shibuya (Shibuya, Omotesando stations). 10am-4pm Sat & Sun. www.wish-fresh.com (Japanese only) GARAGE 50 Speciality: pizza Despite operating from the confined space of a van, Garage 50 boasts one of the most extensive pizza selections in town, organised into sauce-based categories. Most fall under the standard tomato, but the white sauce, basil sauce, garlic oil, and maple syrup categories offer up plenty of great alternatives to choose from. All are served on a thin, stone-baked crust. One of our

favourites, the Italian basil, comes topped with chopped tomatoes, ham and pesto, while the garlic and chorizo pizza has a satisfyingly strong aroma and meaty bits that are cooked just to the cusp of crispiness. Check the Facebook page for occasional specials, sold for a limited amount of time based on the availability of seasonal ingredients. Best of all, every 24cm pizza on the menu is just ¥500, and glass bottles of Coca Cola and Canada Dry Ginger are only ¥100. Find it As it’s a stationary van, you’ll find it in Kichijoji every day, parked in a converted garage with seating and a countertop available to eat-in. 1-23-5 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). www. facebook.com/Garage50 (Japanese only). 11.30am-10pm Tue-Sat, 11.30am-7pm Sun, closed Mon. PLUS SPICE Speciality: Indian Serving naan and curry from a beige truck with an Indian flag draped from the window, Plus Spice is a must-visit when it rolls into your

ADWEE LALAWEE Speciality: pad Thai (and handdrawn portraits) Though it’s not technically a food truck, this list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Adwee Lalawee’s pad thai. This wandering pad thai chef (aka Hiroyuki Makino) serves only one dish from the wooden cart attached to the back of his bicycle, but he does it so well you really don’t need any other options. A number of self-service sauces and a tub of crushed peanuts sit on the countertop, allowing you to experiment with different flavours. We recommend a touch of the spicy one and a generous helping of nuts. Adwee can be a little difficult to find sometimes, but those who do track him down are richly rewarded with his simple and authentic pad

Thai for only ¥380, and a can of Singha beer for ¥400. He tends to set up around the Koenji/Asagaya area, and although he has no fixed schedule, he regularly posts his location with a picture on Twitter. As an added personal touch, every one of his containers comes adorned with a unique portrait handdrawn by Adwee himself. Find it www.twitter.com/makino79 PASADENA DELICATESSEN LUNCH WAGON Speciality: rotisserie chicken Of all the cooking devices and implements that food trucks around Tokyo manage to cram into their vehicles, Pasadena Delicatessen’s large rotisserie has to be the most impressive. Five whole chickens are usually roasting on the spit throughout the day, glistening from inside the van and exuding a tantalising aroma. Every portion of slow-roasted chicken

served by the truck is succulent and tender with a juicy, well-seasoned skin. The meat comes either as a pulled chicken sandwich, served on a large bun with lettuce, peppers and yoghurt dressing, or falling off the bone on a tray garnished with roast potatoes, salad, jambalaya or rice. Their store in Shonan also has charcoal-grilled rotisserie chicken on the menu. Find it Farmer’s Market @ UNU, United Nations University Square, 5-53-70 Jingumae, Shibuya (Shibuya, Omotesando stations). www.facebook.com/ PasadenaDelicatessen (Japanese only). 10am-4pm Sat & Sun.

Come say konnichiwa at the...

TIME OUT CAFÉ & DINER T

Missing n us betwee e to m issues? Coe and our plac t! hang ou

he physical outpost of Time Out Tokyo brings a dash of cosmopolitan class to Ebisu – and it’s a great place to while away a few hours. Housed in the upstairs floor of key live venue Liquidroom, the Time Out Café & Diner offers an ideal spot for lazy lunches, coffee sessions and meetings. The interior is styled like a New York loft eatery with skylights, exposed brickwork, an eclectic mix of seating and a large central table that’s ideal for bigger gatherings. Order up some international food from the open-plan kitchen – specialities include the hearty pastrami sandwich and the mouthwatering Yatsugatake Premium Burger – and browse the library of Time Out books and magazines from around the globe. Alternatively, slurp a cappuccino, Chimay beer or cocktail, then check out the latest exhibition in the adjacent Kata gallery. And did we mention we have free Wi-Fi? Because we’re nice like that. 2F Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya. 03 5774 0440. www.tinyurl.com/TOTcafe. Ebisu Station. 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 11.30-5am Fri, 1pm-5am Sat, 1-10pm Sun & public hols.

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Eating & Drinking

area. There are now three Plus Spice restaurants, located in Kawasaki, Yokohama and Ueda, Nagano, but the business started out in the form of the two trucks that operate somewhere in central Tokyo every day of the week. The three curries available are butter chicken, keema and vegetable, all served in a small tub with either rice, a naan almost the size of a tennis racket – or both, if you have a black hole where your stomach should be. Spice levels are dialled down to cater for the Japanese palate without sacrificing taste, and the naans are served straight from a small tandoor oven, transforming them from shapeless balls of dough into warm and smoky bread that melts in your mouth. Find it Monday at Tokyo International Forum and University of Tokyo. Tuesday at Keio University and Otemachi. Wednesday at Kyobashi and Harajuku. Thursday at Kamiyacho and Heiwajima. Friday at Toranomon and University of Tokyo. Weekends at various events – details are posted on the blog ameblo.jp/ plusspice (Japanese only). www.plusspice.net (Japanese only).

Eating & Drinking

Tokyogoes

Eating & Drinking

organic It’s no longer impossible to find a dish with brown rice instead of white. Here are five of our favourite healthy restaurants, whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, a meat eater, a wine lover or a sweet fanatic. Words Annemarie Luck

MARGO Best for: red wine and romance Picking up where Yutenji’s organic claim to fame (Keats) left off, Margo offers delicious ‘99 percent organic’ fare in a tranquil rustic atmosphere. The cosy restaurant is kitted out in vintage-style wooden tables and chairs, and in the evenings, candles and dimmed hanging lights create a warm glow, perfect for those looking for some quiet romance. Margo is run by a friendly couple who will explain the Japanese menu to you in English if you need help. If you’re there for dinner, they’ll also bring out a selection of their 300-plus bottles of natural wine for you to choose from. Besides local wines, they offer bottles from around the world including France, Spain, the US, Austria and Slovenia.

‘Most of our wines are biodynamic,’ says co-owner Mariko Kojima. ‘We especially recommend trying our Jura & Savoie wine.’ For those who prefer beer, they serve organic brews from Germany, France and the UK. The other great thing about Margo is that their menu works for both vegetarians and meat eaters. For lunch, we tucked into one of the best lentil and chickpea curries we’ve ever had, served with grainfilled rice and a few sneaky chillies, and complemented by a side salad to rival all side salads. And when we went back for dinner, we opted for a juicy pork steak served with veggies bursting with colour and flavour, rounded off with a decadent chocolate brownie with a hint of fruity jam embedded in the dense fudgy middle.

Wine and dine at Margo

36 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

They only serve lunch Friday to Sunday, while dinner is every day except Tuesday, and after the last order at 9.30pm, Margo turns into a wine bar, sometimes featuring live music. Note: if you have children, best hire a babysitter for the evening as they have a no-kids policy. 1-21-16 Yutenji, Meguro (Yutenji Station). 03 5722-4505. www. margo3020.com TAMANA SHOKUDO Best for: traditional Japanese set lunch We nearly gave up trying to find this restaurant. But boy are we glad we kept walking around in circles (damn you, Google Maps) until we spotted a signboard with the words ‘Natural Food Studio’, which turned out to belong to Tamana Shokudo. You would never guess from the unassuming exterior, but this is a beautiful, inviting space that gets packed at lunchtime yet still retains an intimate atmosphere. It really is like finding the treasure at the end of a long hunt. The food, of course, is just as much a part of the reward. Their signature set lunch, Tamana Teishoku (¥1,890), includes about 40 different ingredients to maximise nutritional balance and incorporates traditional recipes. It’s one of those meals that forces you to slow down

on chewing, so tantalising is every morsel. There are a few secrets to the flavours at play here, and the one we love the most is shoyu koji (soy sauce rice malt). This sweet and salty fermented (read: good for your gut) dressing takes two to three weeks to prepare and you can buy a tub to take home for ¥570. As part of this lunch set, it’s used as a topping for the fried tofu squares, but you can marinate chicken, meat or fish with it too. The lunch side dishes include brown rice served with black sesame and salt for sprinkling, five kinds of natto beans (served with olive oil and four other kinds of beans), tempeh salad, pickled veg and miso soup. Tamana Shokudo, which is 100 percent organic and vegetarian, also sells a great range of organic goods like olive oil and beans, hosts a cooking school and informal oneday cooking courses (in Japanese). Note that their lunch menu is only in Japanese (there are pictures, though), while their dinner menu comes in English too. 3-8-27 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 5775 3673. tinyurl.com/TOTtamana BROWN RICE BY NEAL’S YARD REMEDIES Best for: brown rice (obvs), whole foods and natural remedies If you live or work in the

Dessert for dinner at Ain Soph. Journey

Easy eating at Brown Rice by Neal’s Yard Remedies

Omotesando/ Harajuku area, this is an ideal spot for a quick lunch or afternoon tea. There are small tables against the floor-to-ceiling windows and along the back wall, while the centre of the restaurant has space for single diners who can take up a spot at two large wooden tables. After your meal, you can nip next door to Neal’s Yard Remedies – the restaurant works as a kind of extension to the store – and stock up on organic skin care, essential oils and healing leaf teas.

AIN SOPH. JOURNEY Best for: vegan and pancakes as a main Sweet tooth but still like to feel healthy? Allow us to introduce you to your new best friend. Vegan restaurant Ain Soph. Journey serves the fattest, fluffiest pancakes as a main meal set (¥1,400), served with vegan cheese, jam, cream, ice cream, nuts and fruit. It comes with a chunky fresh salad, presented in a tall glass with walnut and olive oil dressing, and a thick tomato soup, as well as your choice of tea served in a delicate silver Moroccan teapot. If you prefer something more on the savoury side,

the Green Curry Set (¥1,100) is a spicy winner. This is the second branch of Ain Soph. (there’s another one in Ginza) and it’s the kind of place we can imagine ourselves spending rainy winter afternoons, especially if we manage to nab the upstairs window booth seat. Hanging plants, subtle lighting, white-washed walls and floors, a Jack Johnson-esque playlist, and healthy treats just make the world a much better place. 3-8-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (ShinjukuSanchome Station, right outside exit C5). 03 5925 8908. ain-soph.jp/ english.html DAYLESFORD Best for: a taste of Britain Sometimes you just need a good dollop of proper English mustard, and no alternative will do. Daylesford, which began life as an organic farm in the Cotswolds region in England over 30 years ago, comes to the rescue with its selection of condiments (think lemon curd,

tomato ketchup, honey & mustard dressing, marmalade etc), available for purchase in the shop which fronts the café. You’ll also find teas, ground coffee, wooden cutlery, pure juices and freshly baked breads and cakes. As a brand, Daylesford has won over 90 awards for its food over the last four years, and opened its first branch in Japan in November 2010, giving Tokyoites a taste of things like shepherd’s pie and slow-cooked beef stew. On sunny days, tuck into a Daylesford Burger or Freshly Baked Quiche at one of the outdoor tables that overlook a busy courtyard area, otherwise head upstairs to escape the city and dunk chunks of warm bread into olive oil to your heart’s content. 5-51-8 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 3486 0080. www.daylesford.jp

Lunch spread at Daylesford

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Eating & Drinking

Forty ingredients in one dish at Tamana Shokudo

At Brown Rice, the focus is on whole foods, something that is evident in both the flavour and texture of the foods. It’s earthy and unfussy, and you really do get the feeling that the veggies packed into the miso soup have just been picked in a garden outside (in reality, they are delivered daily from farms around the country). One page in the menu is dedicated to telling you where their ingredients are sourced from, for example, the home-made raw miso is made with malted white rice from Yamagata Prefecture, while the award-winning sticky brown rice hails from Toyama Prefecture. We opted for the Monthly Brown Rice Bowl (¥1,300) which is the kind of meal you could eat every day – just a simple layer of pumpkin, carrots, daikon (radish), sweet potato and lettuce, covered with a sweet sauce and served on unpolished brown rice, along with miso soup and pickled veg. The set includes coffee, grain coffee or hot blended hojicha (roasted green tea). If you’re there for afternoon tea, you’ll be pleased to know that their desserts are all dairy free and made with sugar alternatives such as beet sugar and brown rice amazake. 5-1-8 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 5778 5416. www. nealsyard.co.jp/brownrice

Lost in Harajuku? Luckily there’s a brand-new tourist information centre to help you out

s the shopping district that symbolises Japanese pop culture, Harajuku is a mustvisit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear that a new tourist information centre has just opened up, right in the heart of the area. Just five minutes’ walk from Harajuku Station, the centre opened on December 24 and provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area,

including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as accommodation and ticket arrangements, courier services, a foreign currency exchange machine, and a guide to free wi-fi hotspots around the district. But that’s not all – aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities like karaoke and purikura (photo booths). There’s also a souvenir shop and an eatery serving snacks,

such as crepes and kebabs, as well as an affiliated hair and nail salon. If you’re looking to move to Japan, ask about their property rental introduction service. And if you want to improve your knowledge of Japan once you return home, the centre has information on schools around the world that enable students to study and experience various aspects of Japanese culture. 3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meijijingumae stations).

Get all of our maps in Shibuya Pay a visit to the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues:

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Stations: Shinjuku station,Tokyo Metro Ueno station,Tokyo Metro Roppongi station,Toei Oedo Line Asakusa station,Toei Asakusa Line Tochomae station,Toei Oedo Line and more stations Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Goverment Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Infomation Centre Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Centre Haneda Airport Narita International Airport and more tourist information centres

egular Time Out readers will know about our popular series of free maps: pocketsized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 Things to Do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ’88 Things to Do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for Roppongi, Shinjuku and Nihonbashi,

in addition to the recent ‘50 Things to do in Tokyo for Business Travellers’, produced in collaboration with Japanese airline ANA. Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts.

38 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

All of these publications, along with back issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The English-speaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA Intercontinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Grand Pacific Le Daiba Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Ritz Carlton Tokyo Tokyo Prince Hotel Park Tower and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp.

INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Shops: Tokyu Hands Shibuya Daikanyama Tsutaya Books Tower Records Shibuya Books Kinokuniya Tokyo and more shops

Style VISIT THE BUNSHIN TATTOO MUSEUM A young Horiyoshi III

Brush up on the country’s history of skin art, then turn the page to find out where to get yours in Tokyo. Words Miho Kawasaki 1. THEY WERE SYMBOLS OF PRIDE When Tokyo was still known as Edo, the city was haunted by recurring and destructive fires. In order to combat the flames, the authorities appointed nimble construction workers as firemen. Their readiness to risk life and limb to protect the city made them heroes in the eyes of the townsfolk, and tattoos (‘horimono’) became symbols of these men’s pride. 2. THE BIGGER THE TATTOO, THE BETTER THE FIREMAN Of course, whether or not to decorate one’s skin was a personal choice, but the prevalent attitude was that the better you were at your job, the more impressive tattoos you had. Tattoos required guts and pain tolerance, and were thus recognised as signs of manliness and bravery. Death in the line of duty wasn’t uncommon for firemen either, so the tattoos also helped families identify their loved ones. 3. UKIYO-E SERVED AS INSPIRATION This period of time also marked the height of popularity for ukiyo-e master Utagawa Kuniyoshi’s art, with his defiant, witty prints

eagerly embraced by commoners. Ukiyo-e promptly came to form the basis of Japanese tattoo culture. This is also why traditional tattoo artists continue to be known as ‘horishi’, the word originally used for woodblock carvers. 4. THE BODY TOLD A STORY Japanese tattooing is distinguished by its bold designs, which use the entire body to tell a single story and often features elaborate backgrounds (‘gakubori’). These create a sense of depth and drama around the central motif, using waves, clouds, wind, thunder, rocks and the like to express nature, and animals and plants to denote the seasons.

‘SHINSEI EDO NO HANAYAKU’, TOYOHARA KUNICHIKA

5. OLD TRADITIONS ARE STILL AT PLAY Western-style tattoos came to be accepted by the youth after World War II. But although Japanese tattoo culture has come a long way from the freespirited firemen of Edo and these days incorporates more modern designs, it maintains an acute sense of tradition. For example, the technique of tattooing done entirely by hand (‘tebori’) is still practised by horishi specialising in traditional methods.

l The word ‘bunshin’, which appears in some of the earliest official records of Japanese history, is the ancient word for tattoos. l Prehistoric clay figurines discovered in the country testify to the fact that primitive-pattern tattoos existed before the Common Era. l While the Edo period gave birth to a vivid tattoo culture described as ‘living ukiyo-e’, several factors led to skin art being viewed in a negative light (hence the banning of tattoos in onsen). These factors include the use of tattoos as a form of punishment, laws banning them, the assumed connection between tattoos and organised crime (which grew out of the ’60s yakuza film boom) and the influence of Confucian morality. Standing against such prejudice, the Bunshin collection shines a light on millennia of tattoo history, as well as on the global tattoo movement of today. 1-11-7 Hiranuma, Nishi, Yokohama (Tobe Station). 04 5323 1073 (Japanese only). tinyurl. com/TOTbunshin. 1pm-6.30pm daily, closed on the 1st, 10th and Saku-chan, the 20th of every month. museum’s ‘manager’ ¥1,000.

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Style

Five things you didn’t know about tattoos in Japan

Curated by Horiyoshi III, a renowned master of traditional Japanese tattooing, this private collection is packed with materials related to the culture, customs, history and present-day state of skin art. Here are a few things you’ll learn when you visit:

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Where to get inked The Japanese art of tattooing is steeped in tradition, but also constantly evolves through the incorporation of new influences. Deciding on a motif is less important than picking the right artist – each craftsperson has a unique style and will go to great lengths to accommodate practically any requests. We visit four representative Tokyo studios to learn more.

DISTINCT AND REFINED

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Shi Ryu Doh

Artist: Ron. 2-45-8 Okusawa, Setagaya (Jiyugaoka Station). 03 3717 9272. shiryudoh.jp. info@shiryudoh.jp. 11am-8pm ThuTue (closed Wed and some Thurs). Prices vary by design and size. From ¥32,000. Visitors welcome, appointments require reservation. English spoken.

For those looking for distinctive, artistic tattoos or refined Asianstyle pieces, this place is highly recommended. The artist, Ron, is well-travelled and enjoys bringing together different cultures at his studio, so Shi Ryu Doh attracts a cosmopolitan group of customers. He’ll lead you through the entire process, which includes deciding on an image, size, theme and so on, and often comes up with a design as early as the following day. In general, Japanese tattoo artists like to take their time with design and preparations, so same-day inking is rare. The studio is located on a quiet backstreet in Jiyugaoka and signage is not very visible, so give yourself a little extra time in case you can’t find it immediately.

INSPIRED DESIGNS

Red Bunny Tattoo This spacious studio emphasises quality and originality, and has four artists on hand – this is fairly unusual since most Japanese studios are run by single artists and require appointments, but Red Bunny Tattoo offers sameday service. Any recommended themes? ‘Standard dragons or carp are nice, but yokais (monsters) have become more popular recently,’ says artist Akatsuki. ‘Sculptures at shrines and temples are also good inspiration for tattoos, so you might want to look for motifs there. Bring a picture and we’ll create a design for you. Tourists sometimes get their travel memories inked.’

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Artist: Akatsuki, Horifuki, Horitsuji, Magnus (Swedish) 3F, 2-8-1 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 21 2515. www. red-bunny.com. info@red-bunny.com. 1pm-8pm daily. Coin-sized designs from ¥10,000, postcard-sized from ¥50,000, larger sizes by the hour (¥12,000/ hour). Visitors welcome, same-day appointments okay. English spoken.

OTAKU ART

Artist: Aki-Bonten 1-1-6 Okano, Nishi, Yokohama (Yokohama Station). 045 321 5583 (Japanese only). www. diabloart.jp. info@diabloart.jp. 11am-11pm daily. ¥10,000/ hour Reservations required. Emails in English okay.

Diablo Art

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Much like tattooed folk in Japan are expected to cover up, otaku are often urged to hide their obsession with anime and manga from the public eye. So it’s no wonder that animated character-themed tattoos are gaining in popularity. Known as ‘o-tattoo’, this new genre was pioneered by Aki, the owner of Diablo Art who publicly admits to being an otaku – even his studio is full of character figurines. Any professional horishi can recreate an image on the skin, but the intricate details and personalities of specific fictional characters can only be understood by someone familiar with the anime and manga subculture. Aki, who says he has several anime geeks as customers, talks through the specifics with every single hopeful, ensuring your o-tattoo is exactly as you imagined it.

TRADITIONAL TEBORI

Artist: Horimitsu 102 Nishiyama Bldg, 1-16-36 Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). 03 3986 6671. www.honeytattoo.com. horimitsu1@gmail.com. 12pm-10pm Thu-Tue (closed Wed). ¥10,000/ hour, B5 size or smaller according to design (under ¥60,000) Reservations required. English spoken.

Honey Tattoo

Based in Ikebukuro, Horimitsu learned his craft from a master of traditional Japanese tattoo art. He employs ancient tebori techniques to create sublimely beautiful pieces and counts the likes of John Mayer among his customers. Most Japanese artists use tattoo machines these days, but Horimitsu does most of his work by hand, relying on technology only for the finest lines. Traditional Japanese tattoos generally take up the entire back and/or arms, but smaller designs can also be handcrafted. Larger pieces require careful size adjustments, so prepare for repeat meetings both before and during the tattooing. Still, the wait will be worth it – this is the haute couture of the tattoo world.

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Art & Culture

S T E E M T R A E R WHE G N I D R A

O B E T A SK

What is it about these two worlds that inspires a creative crossover? William Bradbury chats to three Tokyo-based artists to find out

okyo loves a good subculture, pouring passion into a hobby so that it becomes a way of life. I often wonder how many buildings I’ve passed while roaming the streets without realising that inside lay a project or artwork that someone has devoted their life to creating. It’s a shame I’ll never get to see it all, but it’s also one of Tokyo’s main attractions – just knowing that all around us there are passionate people chipping away at their creative dreams. It’s no different in the skateboarding community. The scene has spilled over into the art world, giving rise to edgy artists like Haroshi, whose ‘pop art’ sculptures created from recycled skateboards have attracted worldwide attention and given rise to a burgeoning subculture. It makes sense that there would be this crossover – after all, both forms of expression require determination and resilience in the face of repeated failure. To gain more insight into the scene, I met up with three skateboarder artists in Tokyo, discovering a corner of the city that’s buzzing with inspiration – across a multitude of mediums. I’d go so far as to say that

they’re providing a template for how creatives will operate in future. With internet culture shortening attention spans and giving people easier access to art than ever before, artists will likely begin working across more and more mediums. Some might see this as a negative, because we stand to lose auteurs, but the passion I registered in these guys – for both skateboarding and their art – is full of lustre, which can only be a positive thing.

Skateboarders also have to be creative people – to find the gaps and spaces for skating – Toshikazu Nozaka Multi-talented artist Toshikazu Nozaka is what I’d like to call a ‘skating Renaissance man’. He’s

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A modern Hokusai? Art by Toshikazu Nozaka (left)

transformed himself from teen pro skater (in the ’90s) to artist who balances his passion for skateboarding with running his brand Asian Wave Skates, tattoo studio Asian Wave Tattoo, and pursuing other creative endeavours including sculpture, painting and deck design. Since 2003, he has had solo shows and taken part in group exhibitions annually, and on a commercial level he has contributed works to Red Bull and Asahi beer. I meet with him at his tattoo studio in Musashi-Sakai, in a room covered with his artwork. ‘Skateboarding is not my work – it’s my life. If you are a professional skateboarder, there is too much stress,’ he tells me. ‘I’ve found

a good balance.’ Nozaka has been skateboarding for over 20 years and continues to enjoy skating, especially in Hasunuma skatepark in Chiba. After winning a series of amateur contests, he became pro by the age of 18 – ‘although only Japanese pro,’ he says modestly. A lot has changed about the scene in Tokyo since then, but Nozaka believes now is the best time to be a skateboarder in Japan. ‘Right now in Tokyo there are many highly skilled skateboarders – they’re world class, it’s amazing. There are also lots of skaters involved in art or setting up clothing companies and concrete parks. The scene has changed and grown up a lot.’ Why does he think the worlds of art and skateboarding

Positive murals Kami’s curves

I skate both in curves and straight lines, so I try to do the same thing when I paint – Kami I meet up with mural artist Kami at a leather shop in Nakameguro. The owner of the shop is an old friend of his and Kami’s paintings decorate the walls. The black swirling lines daubed on the shop’s walls are his, too. ‘I want my art to fit within the surroundings of daily life,’ he tells me when I ask about his style. Kami began skateboarding in his hometown of Kyoto over 20 years ago. He moved to Tokyo in 1996, and now counts Shibuya’s Miyashita Park as being one of his favourite skate spots. After taking inspiration from skateboard graphics, he began painting walls and creating his own paintings. He creates graphics for decks and uses his patterns on a range of products available on his website. Kami also paints in collaboration with his wife, ‘Sasu’, under the name Hitotzuki, meaning ‘sun and moon’ – an expression of their union both as artists and partners. Their mural work

the fashionable urban sprawl of today. He started skateboarding by chance. When he was young he used to roam around shops and streets, venturing at random into unlocked houses. One of these youthful excursions saw him opening a door and finding a skateboard, and thus the passion was born, taking him all the way to pro status. ‘After I found that skateboard, I was also largely influenced by my senpai (mentor). He was so fashionable – he had good sense of style and he could paint anywhere and skate really well. He taught me all about skateboarding culture and art.’ Daikon cites Dogtown style (made famous in the acclaimed 2001 documentary ‘Dogtown and Z-Boys’) as inspiration for his transition skate style. After his skater days ended back in 2000, Daikon got involved in painting and street photography. His painting style focuses on a black and white palette, something he claims began due to lack of skill but then turned into a stylistic choice. He uses similarly stark colours in his street photography, which I notice seems to hold a sense of sadness. When I mention this to him he laughs and says, ‘My

friends say the same thing.’ He’s also influenced by punk and music culture and occasionally uses this as inspiration for his photography. Although he lives in Tokyo, he prefers to skate outside in areas such as Ibaraki and Nagano, which he says helps steer his artwork. ‘I like taking trips outside of the city to absorb energy, then I come back and use that energy when I paint.’ www.diskah.com

Art & Culture

collide? ‘Skateboarders also have to be creative people – to find the gaps and spaces for skating,’ he says. His art style is influenced by traditional Japanese painters such as Hokusai, Kuniyoshi,Kyosai and Yoshitoshi. ‘I like to use a traditional style and add about 20 per cent of my own individual style.’ toshikazu-nozaka.com asianwaveskates.blogspot.jp

was featured in an exhibition at Nakamura Keith Haring Collection in Yamanashi in September 2014. Naturally, his artwork is strongly tied to skateboarding: ‘When I skate, I skate both in curves and straight lines, so I try to do the same thing when I paint. For me, skating is about expressing strong, positive feelings and that’s what I want to do with my painting, too. The physical experience of skating is important, but through painting I experience the same positive mentality in a different way. I also want people to experience something positive when they walk past my paintings on the street.’ He takes me for a walk to see one of his murals in nearby Yutenji, which he completed in April 2013. It was cherry blossom season at the time, and blooming petal-like images are a focal point of the mural, their pink colour contrasting vibrantly with hues of light and dark blue. As an artist, Kami has a desire to merge with natural everyday life: ‘My art comes from my surroundings, such as sudden changes of scenery, or crossroads of people,’ he says. The mural stretches across a wall that sits just in front of a house. ‘Were there any problems getting permission for this?’ I ask him. ‘Well, they said no at first, but we tried again,’ he says with a laugh. instagram.com/kami_htzk www.hitotzuki.com

For more art and culture features, go to timeout.com/tokyo

My senpai taught me all about skateboarding culture and art – Daisuke Tanaka Daikon, as he is known to his friends, was born and still lives in Ebisu. The area has changed a lot in the past 20 years, he tells me. He remembers a childhood where it was more like the countryside – far removed from

Street roamer Daikon (pictured here) favours moody photography (above)

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Essential exhibitions Examine the ‘space’ between music and art, glimpse the dark side of society, and go behind the scenes of 1954’s ‘Godzilla’ ‘Otomo Yoshihide: Between Music and Art’ NTT InterCommunication Center (ICC) Gallery A, until Feb 22 Yoshihide Otomo is a multi-genre musician who’s just as comfortable writing pop songs as he is composing soundtracks for film and TV. Here, he shows off another side of his creativity – his love of installation pieces, which he regularly exhibits at museums and galleries. ‘Between Music and Art’ examines what lies in the ‘space’ between these two different forms of expression through a variety of installations and events. 4F Tokyo Opera City Tower, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 0120 144 199. www.ntticc.or.jp. 11am-6pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol), Dec 29-Jan 5, Feb 8. ‘Takamatsu Jiro: Mysteries’ The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, until Mar 1 In the ’60s, Jiro Takamatsu (19361998) founded the legendary radical art group Hi-Red Center (HRC) together with Genpei Akasegawa and Natsuyuki Nakanishi, and subsequently embarked on a creative journey unlike any other in the history of modern Japanese art. In addition to taking part in the group’s performances, such as their ‘street cleaning’ before the first Tokyo Olympics, Takamatsu produced paintings, sculptures, murals and

installations, exploring themes like ‘absence’, the importance of the natural environment, and the assumptions of art theory. In addition to showing off his work, this extensive retrospective explores his work through writings and sketches, reaching from the early ’60s all the way to the early ’80s. 3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 8600. www.momat.go.jp/english. 10am-5pm (Fri until 8pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol). ‘Fantaisie Merveilleuse: Classicism in French Art Deco’ Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, Jan 17-Apr 7 The Paris Exhibition of 1925 will always be remembered as one of the most important exhibitions that promoted the emerging Art Deco

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trend, which at the time still included hints of classicism. Works on display included ‘French Embassy’ by Henri Rapin’s Association of Decorative Artists, and Ruhlmann’s ‘Pavilion for a Collector’. The decorative style of art was so popular that it was chosen as décor style for Prince Asaka of Japan’s residence, built in 1933. The interior design was supervised by Rapin. Now, ‘Fantaisie Merveilleuse’ introduces 80 works by 33 Art Deco artists from that time, including furniture, porcelain, silverware, glass, clothing, pictures and sculptures, focusing on the treasures of French art museums while also providing insight into the placement of the Art Deco at the Asaka residence. 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato. www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp. 10am-6pm, closed Jan 28, Feb 12, Feb 25, Mar 11, Mar 25.

‘Tange by Tange 1949-1959’ TOTO Gallery Ma, Jan 23-Mar 28 Subtitled ‘Kenzo Tange as seen through the eyes of Kenzo Tange’, this exhibition marks the 10th anniversary of the passing of, you guessed it, Kenzo Tange, one of Japan’s leading architects from the postwar era. It focuses on his activities over a 10-year period, from the time he began working on his debut project, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. It also traces the completion of the Kagawa Prefectural Government Hall (1958). The buildings are presented on contact sheets of 35mm film images that Tange took himself. Besides photographing the buildings he designed, Tange also shot traditional Japanese architecture such as the Katsura Imperial Villa and Ryoanji Temple. Over 70 contact sheets are displayed, still with the red markings made by Tange to indicate how to crop the photos. It’s a detailed testimony of how a young Tange viewed architecture and his thoughts and conflicted emotions about architecture. 3F Toto Nogizaka Bldg, 1-24-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato. 03 3402 1010. www.toto.co.jp/gallerma. 11am-6pm, closed Sun, Mon & pub hol. ‘Mika Ninagawa: Self-image’ Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, Jan 24-May 10 Internationally recognised photographer Mika Ninagawa holds a solo exhibition that brings together black-and-white self-portraits taken intermittently since her early career days; her photographic series ‘Noir’ (2010), the artist’s groundbreaking look at the dark side of contemporary

‘OTOMO YOSHIHIDE: BETWEEN MUSIC AND ART’: ‘QUARTETS’, 2008. PHOTO COURTESY: YAMAGUCHI CENTER FOR ARTS AND MEDIA (YCAM); ‘TAKAMATSU JIRO: MYSTERIES’: TAKAMATSU JIRO, NO. 273 (SHADOW), 1969, THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, TOKYO, © THE ESTATE OF JIRO TAKAMATSU, COURTESY OF YUMIKO CHIBA ASSOCIATES; ‘FANTAISIE MERVEILLEUSE: CLASSICISM IN FRENCH ART DECO’: EUGÈNE-ROBERT POUGHEON, THE SERPENT C. 1930,© MUSÉE LA PISCINE (ROUBAIX), DIST. RMN-GRAND PALAIS/ARNAUD LOUBRY/ DISTRIBUTED BY AMF, ACHAT DE L’ETAT 1930; ‘TANGE BY TANGE 1949-1959’: CONTACT SHEETS OF PHOTOGRAPHS OF TANGE’S WORK TAKEN BY THE ARCHITECT HIMSELF; ‘MIKA NINAGAWA: SELF-IMAGE’: ‘SELF-IMAGE 2013’ © MIKA NINAGAWA, COURTESY OF TOMIO KOYAMA GALLERY

Art & Culture

society; and ‘Plant a Tree’ (2011), images of cherry blossoms scattered on the surface of rivers. 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 0651. www.haramuseum. or.jp. 11am-5pm (Wed until 8pm), last entry 30min before closing time, closed Mon.

‘KISHIO SUGA, SITUATED LATENCY’: KISHIO SUGA, LEFT-BEHIND SITUATION, 1972/2013 COLLECTION: GLENSTONE. PHOTO: TUYOSHI SATOH; ‘BEST OF THE BEST’: PIERRE-AUGUSTE RENOIR, MLLE GEORGETTE CHARPENTIER SEATED, 1876; ‘TOHO STUDIOS: INNOVATIVE FILMMAKERS IN SETAGAYA’: ORIGINAL PAINTING OF COSTUME DESIGN FOR ‘SEVEN SAMURAI’ BY JAPANESE-STYLE PAINTER KOHEI EZAKI (PRIVATE COLLECTION)

Caillebotte and legendary Japanese painter Shigeru Aoki, whose works served as the foundation of the collection. 1-10-1 Kyobashi, Chuo. www.bridgestone-museum.gr.jp/ en/. 10am-6pm (Fri until 8pm), closed Mon (except May 4). ‘New-wave Artists 2015 – From the Public Entry Exhibition’ Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Feb 19-Mar 15 Shining the spotlight on a number of hotly tipped emerging artists, this display consists of representative work picked out from the public-entry ‘Best Selection 2014’ exhibition held in May. Make sure not to miss Kazuki Takamatsu’s haunting, borderline dystopian work that combines traditional techniques

with computer graphics for maximum impact. All in all, the diversity of themes, approaches and forms of expression found here should make for a stimulating experience. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 3823 6921. www.tobikan.jp/en. 9.30am-5.30pm (until 8pm on Feb 20 & 27, Mar 6 & 13), closed Mar 2. ‘Toho Studios: Innovative Filmmakers in Setagaya’ Setagaya Art Museum, Feb 21-Apr 19 Toho Studios is Japan’s largest movie studio, famed for its production of 1954’s ‘Godzilla’ and ‘The Seven Samurai’. This exhibition reviews the innovation of these films, including art direction and special effects. It also introduces the creators, artists and writers who have been involved in the studio’s productions since its founding. 1-2 Kinuta Koen, Setagaya. 03 3415 6011. www.setagayaartmuseum. or.jp. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a hol). For more exhibitions, culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Art & Culture

‘Kishio Suga, Situated Latency’ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, Jan 24-Mar 22 A pivotal artist of the Mono-ha movement (a group of 20th century Japanese artists), Kishio Suga’s installations are created out of stone, wood and sheet metal, within a specific space. He pays attention to the construction of open-ended yet precise relationships between matter, space and material. Through installation, production notes and video recordings, this show revives the richness found both in Suga’s work and the ’70s, which was when his concepts found their most radical expression. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5245 4111. www.mot-art-museum. jp/eng. 10am-6pm, closed Mon.

‘Best of the Best’ Bridgestone Museum of Art, Jan 31-May 17 This is the Bridgestone Museum of Art’s final exhibition before it closes for long-term renovations. They’ve selected 160 works from museum founder Shojiro Ishibashi’s personal collection, The Ishibashi Foundation Collection, which consists of over 2,500 pieces (of which the museum houses 1,600). The focus is on modern and contemporary works including Renoir’s masterpiece ‘Mlle Georgette Charpentier Seated’, art from Picasso’s neoclassical phase, and works by the likes of French artist Gustave

Art & Culture

Great leaps

Watch Mizuka Ueno and Dan Tsukamoto in ‘The Sleeping Beauty’ in Feb

2014 was a banner year for Japanese ballet, as the country’s dancers took top prizes at a string of major international competitions, while The Tokyo Ballet celebrated its 50th anniversary. Amanda Taylor looks at the current state of the scene

If there’s one company that’s proved its talent and staying power, it’s The Tokyo Ballet. Since its founding in 1964, the company has staged more than 700 overseas performances. Perhaps its secret lies in the way it fuses a traditional Japanese aesthetic with classical European ballet to create modern masterpieces, such as ‘The Kabuki’, an original work choreographed by ballet great Maurice Béjart. In November, the company’s 50th anniversary performance of Béjart’s ‘Ninth Symphony’ was recorded by NHK with Germany’s EuroArts and broadcast in several countries around the world, marking the first time this extraordinary ballet has ever been recorded for TV and DVD. Mizuka Ueno has been a principal dancer with The Tokyo Ballet since 2004.We chatted to her about her career highlights and her thoughts on ballet as an art form.

Art & Culture

f the reviews are to believed, ballet suffered from a serious case of ‘arrested development’ in Japan. Though it started to gain traction after World War II, for decades Japanese ballet was virtually ignored overseas, while struggling to build a serious audience at home. As late as 1981, ‘The New York Times’ reported on a provincial, conservative scene, where ‘Swan Lake’ was endlessly rehashed and ‘capacity audiences are comprised chiefly of ballet students, their mothers, grandmothers and, on rare occasions, a senior male member of the family recruited to film or photograph the proceedings on stage’. Three decades later, Japanese ballet is booming. Thanks to the perseverance and innovation of local dance companies, it’s finally established itself as one of the country’s premier performing arts. And while France and Russia are still regarded as the go-to places for ballet, offering budding dancers far more opportunity for growth, Japan is really starting to prove its worth on the international stage. In 2014 alone, we saw 17-year-old Haruo Niyama winning first prize at the international ballet competition Prix de Lausanne in Switzerland; Mariko Kida becoming the first Japanese dancer to win the top award of the Benois de la Danse (dubbed the Oscars of ballet) in Russia; and Shiori Kase and Tamako Miyazaki taking top medals at the USA International Ballet Competition in Jackson,

Leading lady

Japan is proving its worth on the international stage Mississippi. The only catch: aside from Niyama, who lives in Nagano Prefecture, all of the above live abroad and dance with international ballet companies. While it’s wonderful that Japan is exporting its talent, it does take away from the country’s own talent pool, making it difficult to build acclaim at home. It’s up to Japan’s ballet fans to continue to support the art and help homegrown dancers thrive both here and abroad – and for stars like The Tokyo Ballet’s Mizuka Ueno (see sidebar) to inspire younger dancers to pursue a career here in Japan. For more art and culture features and artist interviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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WHERE TO WATCH BALLET TOKYO BUNKA KAIKAN Opened in 1961, this theatre is described as a ‘music palace’ and renowned for its excellent acoustics and productions. 5-45 Ueno Koen, Taito (Ueno Station). 03 5685 0650. www.t-bunka.jp/en NEW NATIONAL THEATRE, TOKYO With a focus on contemporary performing arts, NNTT opened in 1997 and is home to the National Ballet of Japan. Note that children under four are not permitted to attend ballet performances. Online booking in English is available. 1-1-1 Honmachi, Shibuya (Hatsudai Station). 03 5352 9999. www.nntt.jac.go.jp/english BUNKAMURA ORCHARD HALL Designed to mirror the world’s greatest concert halls, this ‘shoe box’ style theatre features high ceilings and shallow balconies to maximise the quality of the acoustics. The K-Ballet Company is performing ‘Cinderella’ here in March. 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3477 9999. www.bunkamura.co.jp/english

What has been the best moment of your career so far? There have been so many great moments. However, as ‘Jewels from Mizuka’, my debut production, opened on November 29 [2014], I have to mention that as a truly special moment. So much work went into it, and I’m happiest whenever I can make my audience happy. How is the culture of ballet in Japan different from in Europe? It’s the same with ballet culture as with art culture in general. Japanese dance and art emphasises delicate, minute movements and is very understated, which I think is its main attraction. I think this also applies to choreography. What makes ballet so timeless? Nowadays, more sport-like performing arts attract audiences with their high levels of skill and showmanship, and on a purely technical level, ballet can’t compete. However, ballet is a true form of art, able to overcome linguistic and national borders, eloquently expressing human feelings and stories through dance. I think that practically every other form of dance borrows its fundamentals from ballet; it's a universal art form. The Tokyo Ballet is performing ‘The Sleeping Beauty’ in February and ‘Giselle’ in March. For more information visit www.thetokyoballet.com/en.

Promotional feature

The world’s most punctual nation How Japan stays on time, all the time

hen people are asked which nationality they think is the most punctual, nine out of ten times the answer is ‘Japanese!’ In Japanese society, arriving late is akin to sin, so strict punctuality is religiously observed. For example, a salaryman working

88.94%

long overtime hours will choose to spend a night at a hotel close to the office rather than risk turning up late for work the next morning. And train conductors will offer deep apologies to customers even if they’re only running a couple of minutes behind schedule – although this

The average number of seconds by which the Tokaido Shinkansen arrived late in 2011. Source: MSN Sankei News, January 5, 2013

The percentage of JAL flights that arrived on schedule in 2013. The Japanese airline received an award for Best On-time Performance Service in the Major International Airlines category two years in a row (2012 and 2013).

rarely happens. Considering it’s being judged by a nation of punctual people, it’s no wonder that Japan’s public transport network represents the most efficient time management system in the world. Here, we take a deeper look at the secrets behind the system…

71.8% The percentage of Japanese people who report feeling irritated while waiting for the train. Source: Hakuhodo Institute of Life and Living ‘Seikatsu Teiten’ survey, 2014

Source: Flight Stats 2013

managing existing and creating new So how do they do it? timetables. They study timetables To meet user demand and improve in explicit detail, looking at station convenience for commuters, Japan names and arrival times, and continues to increase the number making predictions for the future of trains running. This has led to based on the number of passengers the development of a rigorous train at each station, the flow of timetable, the likes of which is not commuters on the platform, number seen anywhere else in the world. of train cars, number of train ‘A network with ten-car trains crew members etc. running at close to two-minute What’s most fascinating intervals is rare anywhere in is that the schedule they the world,’ says a Tokyo Metro come up with is organised spokesperson. Tokyo Metro into units of five seconds. So, is a subway system used by for example, if a train approximately 6.73 million stops at a station for people every day and 35 seconds, and it consistently achieves takes 2.45 minutes an unsurpassed level to travel to the next of punctuality. station, all subway The person in staff, including the charge of planning drivers, conductors, this almost absurd station employees schedule is called and controllers, are the ‘suji-ya’ (line Tokyo Metro timetable trained to achieve man). They take creator Hideyuki Miya the timing plan set on the burden of

out by the suji-ya down to the exact second. ‘When it comes to a train schedule, if it is off by even a matter of seconds, it can lead to delays of five or ten minutes,’ says Tokyo Metro timetable creator Hideyuki Miya. Hence not even a minute’s deviation is allowed, even during the crammed commuter rush hour that Tokyo is famed for.

What’s more, the suji-ya’s tools are limited to old-school methods: ruler, coloured pencils and eraser. ‘If the work was simply about calculations, then a machine could probably do it. But what is most important for creating a timetable is ingenuity – the ability to figure out how best to improve customer convenience.’ The Japanese artisanal spirit, it seems, finds its way into all things, even as far as the seemingly mundane subway schedule. Which means everyone also knows that, should they arrive late for work, the excuse ‘my train was late’ just doesn’t fly.

Japanese time technology crosses the globe Whether you’re hopping over to Canada to experience the aurora borealis, taking a train journey through India, or jetsetting to an international business conference in Dubai, there is no greater peace of mind for the global traveller who’s on a tight schedule than owning a Japanese timepiece – Japan is, after all, a world leader in timeliness. To bring the precision of Japanese timekeeping to the rest of the world, and with the strict timekeeping culture of Japan as a backdrop, Casio has developed two new technologies. With its introduction of the GPS Hybrid and Smartphone Link, Casio looks set to lead the world to effortless, stylish punctuality.

LOCAL INSIGHT

THE WORLD’S FIRST* GPS HYBRID SYSTEM A new system that simultaneously uses GPS satellite waves and terrestrial radio waves (Multi Band 6), ensuring the correct time is always displayed, no matter where in the world you are. *As of September 2014 (Casio investigation)

G-Shock and GPS Hybrid: an unbeatable combination As its name suggests, the solar-powered G-Shock GRAVITYMASTER GPW-1000 is resistant to shock, meaning it can cope with any kind of environment. Even if you find yourself in the middle of the Sahara Desert, you can rely on your watch to keep working. It also features Dual Dial World Time, which means it displays the time in two cities simultaneously. Here’s how it works: In normal range areas… l Uses standard-time radio waves. l Is compatible with standard-time frequency signals of Japan (two stations), North America, England, Germany and China. l Receives signals even indoors, built-up areas. l Has low power consumption.

GPW-1000 ¥100,000 (excl tax) 403

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In out-of-range areas… l Uses GPS satellite waves. l Uses high-resolution map data that lays a 500m grid (approx) over the surface of the earth for highly accurate location detection. l Uses location data to detect time zones and daylight saving regions for accurate display.

Hakozaki PA

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Smartphone Link

STAY ON TIME WITH SMARTPHONE LINK Use Bluetooth to synchronise your watch with your smartphone and keep up to date with the time of day in 300 cities around the world. This new technology helps people on the move get quicker, easier and more accurate access to time data.

Rechargeable battery

Charging Solar panel

EQB-500D ¥40,000 (excl tax)

Tough Solar technology

Electric power supply

Precision time-telling with the Edifice analogue watch With its sophisticated, full-metal body, this Bluetooth-enabled business timepiece will keep you stylish and on time while you traipse the globe. Here’s what to expect from the Edifice EQB-500: l Smartphone Link technology activated at the push of a button, and automatic adjustment to time at current location. l Quick access to the time in 300 cities worldwide. l Easy and quick operation of various settings on your smartphone, including world time settings and alarms. l Display of the time in two cities simultaneously. Check the time at home and the time at your present location in one go. l Tough Solar technology, which converts light into power, even from low-light sources such as fluorescent lamps.

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit world.casio.com

Music

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Music

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Cosmic connection Producer Naruyoshi Kikuchi and Rinko Kikuchi were ‘meant’ to work together

50 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

t’s been eight years since she netted a Best Supporting Actress nomination at the Academy Awards for her role as Chieko Wataya in ‘Babel’, but Rinko Kikuchi has hardly been resting on her laurels. Aside from multiple roles in Japanese films, she’s also popped up in ‘The Brothers Bloom’, ‘Pacific Rim’ and ‘47 Ronin’, and is due to appear alongside Juliette Binoche and Gabriel Byrne in 2015’s ‘Nobody Wants the Night’. But her success as a film star is not enough to satisfy the ambitious 34-year-old. So, over the last year, in between shooting in New York and Rome, she’s transformed herself into a singer, making her debut under the name Rinbjö in December 2014.

two categories: incredibly good or the complete opposite. But in Rinko’s case, her singing was neither fantastic nor terrible; she just lacked experience and therefore came across as a bit awkward at first.’ Because of this, Naruyoshi decided they should produce a full album from the start; to give people a fuller package, rather than try and showcase her abilities in a one-off track. The result is a 14-track album titled ‘Kaigenrei’ (‘Martial Law’), which hit shelves on 24 December. Moving away from his jazz roots, Naruyoshi chose a multi-genre feel for the album, using a combination of electro, pop, hardcore and hiphop, and drawing on his experience working with groups like Spank

‘I feel that I’m approaching the point where my age isn’t doing me any favours as an actress. I’ve been acting for over 10 years, and I worry that from here on there might only be fading interest in what I’m doing. So I thought, I have to find a new mode of expression,’ says Rinko. Determined that her next project would have no direct connection to her acting career, she chose music. For her record producer, she picked out Naruyoshi Kikuchi, a jazz musician who wears several hats including those of musical director and columnist. ‘I get a call from my friend, songwriter Tsutomu Noda, and he asks: you know Rinko Kikuchi? And then she gets on the line! I want to make music, she says. Please be my producer. You’re the only one I want,’ Naruyoshi recalls. ‘I honestly thought it was a prank call at first.’ As a firm believer in following your intuition, Naruyoshi didn’t hesitate in saying yes to her. Rinko felt the same, saying she felt from the start that they would work well together. ‘I believe that going with your gut instinct always takes you in the right direction,’ she says. It seems to have paid off, even though Naruyoshi admits he had no idea where her skills lay, musically speaking. ‘All I knew of her at the time was her face, voice and acting. Most people who switch careers to become singers fall into one of

Music

Most people who switch careers to become singers fall into one of two categories: incredibly good or the complete opposite Happy and Jazz Dommunisters. Rinko even tries her hand at rapping (her skills are ‘pretty tight’, according to Naruyoshi). Guest artists include members from hip-hop unit Simi Lab, rapper I.C.I, and Korean artist Paloalto. Suffice to say, this is more than just a trite collection of romantic ballads and pop songs. ‘The current music scene has become distorted with everyone looking for a quick love fix,’ laments Naruyoshi. ‘Cheerful love songs don’t really match Rinko’s style, so we chose to create an album that’s edgy and artful.’ So what was it like stepping out of her acting comfort zone? ‘It goes without saying that the music and acting industries are completely different, so it was a fresh and fun experience for me. Of course I worried about whether or not I was doing a good job, and there were times when I felt like escaping, but overall it was a joyful and entertaining experience.’ Considering the vocal effect technology at a music producer’s disposal these days, it’s interesting to note that Naruyoshi strove not to overproduce the album. He wanted to showcase her natural voice. As a result, he admits, with a chuckle, that Rinbjö might be an ‘acquired taste’ for some. ‘But she’s a delicious dish, nonetheless.’ ‘Kaigenrei’ was released under the label Taboo on December 24. taboolabel.net/rinbjo.html For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 51

Music

Music

IS NOISE MUSIC REALLY MUSIC? YES

Says James Hadfield, a freelance writer, editor and gig photographer who has been living in Tokyo for far too long.

f you’ve ever enjoyed watching a rock band trash their gear and storm off in a blaze of feedback at the end of a show, you’re probably a noise fan without even realising it. There was already plenty of room for cacophony and chaos in music, long before pioneering Japanese acts like Hijokaidan and Merzbow helped birth the genre we now know as noise music. The issue isn’t so much about noise itself: it’s about how much noise. That unholy racket is no longer a way of getting from one place to another: it’s the destination itself. Done well, noise music takes the high that you get from the most intense, ecstatic moments of a punk, rock or free jazz gig and then extends it way, way further. Is it music? Not in the sense that you could whistle it in the shower, no, but noise can still be structured and dynamic, it can still have a wide range of shapes and textures. The best noise artists don’t simply blast their audiences into submission – even though it might sound that way to the people who listen for 30 seconds and then dash for the exit. That’s not to say that all noise music is good music, of course. Much of it is posturing, macho and/or masturbatory bullshit that deserves to be ignored by as wide an audience as possible. But the good stuff is a helluva drug.

Says Annemarie Luck, a writer and editor for Time Out Tokyo who wishes she could fit her piano into her Japanese apartment.

ince moving to Tokyo, the concept of noise music has wound its way into my consciousness. Not surprising since Japan is considered the mecca of the genre, having pioneered the cacophony back in the ’80s and ’90s. So when I was invited to a noise gig a few months ago, I was excited. Not least because the show featured a symphony and robot instruments and video installations and a boxing bag. I was sure it would be exhilarating. Instead, I wanted to leave halfway. I never leave halfway. I once even sat through an entire Kelly Clarkson concert. I didn’t leave. I hoped for inspiration to hit me. To find meaning in the lone, echoing drum beat. In the infinite cello note. In the single thud of a fist against the punch bag. (It wasn’t the raucous sort of noise.) Someone next to me said, ‘It sounds like a soundtrack to a David Lynch film.’ I thought, ‘Hmm, maybe there’s something to it then?’ After all, Henry Rollins is into it. But then he would be, wouldn’t he. The hipsters are into it – although maybe they’re just dropping the word ‘noise’ into their craft beers. In the end, I asked the almighty Google: ‘What’s the difference between noise and music?’ The short explanation is this: music is ordered sound (pure notes). Noise is disordered sound (impure notes). In other words, not the same thing. An oxymoron. Can’t argue with physics.

52 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

JAPANESE NOISE 101

Three of the best to get you started

MERZBOW While most people scorned Lou Reed’s ‘unlistenable’ 1975 album, ‘Metal Machine Music’, Masami Akita (above) used it as a blueprint for his career. The godfather of Japan’s noise scene is still one of its most consistently satisfying acts – and, with over 250 albums to his name, also one of its most prolific. merzbow.net INCAPACITANTS Toshiji Mikawa and Fumio Kosakai are both members of legendary noise group Hijokaidan, but they make some of their best work as a duo. Incapacitants gigs can be brutally intense, but also enormous fun. And, unlike a lot of their peers, Mikawa and Kosakai actually know when to stop. www.japanimprov.com/incapa KAZUMA KUBOTA Perhaps the most widely feted of the current generation of ear-bleeders, Kazuma Kubota favours abrupt, fast-cut edits that jar the senses, rather than just numb them. He’s also capable of real beauty: some of the moments on his 2013 full-length debut,‘DisConnected’, could almost pass for shoegaze. kazumakubota.blogspot.com

RYOICHI KUROKAWA: ARTISTIC OVERSTIMULATION Sensory overload is a speciality for this Osaka-born, Berlin-based audio-visual artist. Ryoichi Kurokawa has spent over a decade perfecting his synaesthetic symphonies, using a perfectly synced combination of glitchy electronica, field recordings and head-spinning computergenerated imagery. Though you once had to go to art galleries to see his work, in the past few years Kurokawa has started playing at conventional music venues, using surround sound and multiple screens to prove to club kids that they don’t need any chemical stimulation to blow their minds. www.ryoichikurokawa.com

LOCAL ACT

WHO’S ON TOP OF UNDERGROUND James Hadfield rounds up six acts making a big noise right now

LOCAL ACT

KATIE GATELY: SOUNDTRACKS FROM OUTER SPACE Imagine being serenaded by an extraterrestrial choir with ADD, and you’re a few steps closer to fathoming the awesome sound world of Katie Gately. The LA-based artist flunked her music theory class at college but excelled at film sound design, and she uses her editing nous to create bewildering, bewitching audio collages. The 14 minutes of ‘Pipes’, originally released in a limited cassette edition at the tail end of 2013, contained more fresh ideas than most musicians come up with in the course of their entire careers. And while it doesn’t look like she’ll be touring any time soon, Gately’s most recent release – a devilishly good split 12” for Fatcat Records – suggests that she’s only just getting started. www.katiegately.com

PHARMAKON: HARSH NOISE FOR THE INDIE MASSES New York native Margaret Chardiet had to cancel her debut European tour in 2013 to undergo emergency organ surgery – a traumatic experience that provided inspiration for her bodyhorror sophomore album, ‘Bestial Burden’. As Pharmakon, Chardiet splices her shrieks, wretches and sobs with wroughtiron slabs of industrial noise. It’s grisly, uneasy listening, but that hasn’t stopped her picking up a sizeable audience. ‘Bestial Burden’ earned a coveted Best New Music rating from influential music site Pitchfork, and after supporting veteran grind-rockers Swans on a recent tour, Pharmakon looks poised to repeat the crossover success of 2000s noise act Wolf Eyes. www.facebook.com/ pharmakonnn CARTER TUTTI VOID: TECHNO MUTATIONS FOR ALL AGES Bringing together two generations of sonic alchemists, this trio teams Throbbing Gristle veterans Chris Carter and Cosey Fanni Tutti with Nik Colk Void, guitarist for dancefloor-flaying threepiece Factory Floor. Carter Tutti Void’s first live outing in 2011, captured on the excellent ‘Transverse’ album, was a joyous outburst of improvised avant-techno, but Void’s commitments with her regular band made it hard to schedule a follow-up. The group finally returned last autumn for a handful of European shows, and while bets are off about whether they’ll ever make it to Japan, we might at least get a ‘Transverse II’. www.chrisandcosey.com/cartertuttivoid

GROUP A: INDUSTRIAL MUSIC AU NATUREL When these paint-smeared noiseniks first hit the Tokyo gig circuit a few years ago, their preference for playing shows in their birthday suits tended to eclipse any talk about their actual music. But somewhere along the way, Group A turned into a ferociously good live act, melding primitive beats, distorted vocals, tortured synthesizers and great washes of processed violin into an almighty death disco stomp. Sure, they’ve pinched a few moves from early industrial acts like Throbbing Gristle, but Group A do it with a conviction and fury that’s hard to deny. They’ve even learnt to keep their clothes on – some of the time, at LOCAL least. groupaband.com

ACT

For more music news and events, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 53

Music

HANALI: STRAIGHT OUTTA THE STONE AGE Of all the obscure micro-genres to have sprung up in the past few years (Seapunk, anyone?), Japan’s gorge scene must be one of the strangest. Forget all your standard musical reference points: this group of beatmakers gets its principal source of inspiration from rock climbing. For a quick introduction, you could start with Takumi Toki, aka Hanali. The gorge progenitor plays gigs wearing a climber’s headlamp, and specialises in brutish, percussion-heavy jams that recall the dumber moments of Muslimgauze. It’s dance music for Neanderthals – and we mean that as a compliment. soundcloud.com/hanali

Nightlife

Once a flea market… Now a maze-like bar street in Kichijoji

Dark alleyways Slip back in time to the smoky, change-filled decades of the Showa era by eating, bar-hopping and shopping in Tokyo’s ‘yokocho’. Words Kumi Nagano

idden among shiny highrises, massive station complexes and other architectural monsters, Tokyo’s oldschool alleyways, or yokocho, are treasure troves for anyone looking to experience the city’s less sterile, more down-to-earth side. Found all over town, the yokocho host thousands of tiny eateries, pubs and shops, some of them dating back to the early postwar period. Recent years have seen some yokocho become trendy locations for opening hip new restaurants, adding another flavour to the diverse mix of tastes, attitudes and customs found on these backstreets. If you don’t mind a little neighbourly physical contact (many places seat less than 10 patrons), yokocho eateries and izakaya are cheapo heaven. People’s booze, such as highballs, shochu and Hoppy, is often available from ¥100 or so, and the food maintains the same dirt-cheap standard without sacrificing quality. The alleys are also ideal for discovering the less stuffy side of Japanese culture and making new drinking buddies. Avoid going in big groups though, as there simply won’t be enough space for all of you.

SHIBUYA: NONBEI YOKOCHO When to go: 6pm-midnight The street that’s now known as Nonbei Yokocho (Drunkard’s Alley) once hosted the Tokyu railway corporation’s head office, but things here changed drastically in the early postwar years. Dating back to the early ’50s, the alley is ruled by yakitori shops and similar eateries. One of the most popular is Okasan (‘mother’), a bare-bones joint that’s been serving hungry patrons for three generations. You’ll also find bars, bistros and quirky shops at Nonbei, conveniently located right by bustling Shibuya Station. Although it’s become a tad more touristy in recent years, this is still one of Tokyo’s most representative yokocho. 1-25-10 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station).

54 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

EBISU: EBISU YOKOCHO When to go: 5pm-early morning Built on the remains of the old Yamashita shopping centre, Ebisu Yokocho is now a lively food alley with plenty to offer for courageous gourmands. Entering the street is like opening a door to a different, vibrant world where the liveliness is infectious, welcoming you to pull up a stool at Chinese eateries, bistros, bars and sushi shops (make sure to try the meat sushi). 1-7-4 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station).

SANGENJAYA: SANKAKU CHITAI When to go: 6pm-2am Sangenjaya’s ‘triangle’ is a chaotic but charming cluster of alleys that’s somehow escaped the wrecking ball during the area’s seemingly constant redevelopment. Patrons of all ages gather here and hang out at the selection of both new wave and oldfashioned shops, including yakitori joints, pubs, ‘ethnic’ stores and curry eateries. 2 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). SHINJUKU: GOLDEN GAI When to go: 8pm-morning More than 270 tiny drinking dens are crammed into seven ramshackle streets in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district. Each place has a unique vibe – ranging from high-end cocktails to hard rock – and the atmosphere can be anywhere from friendly to downright hostile. Choose your spot wisely and you might find yourself engaged in conversation with writers, poets or cartoonists, all while getting drunk on cheap wine and chewing on grilled chicken. Note that many of the bars have cover charges, which can be as high as ¥4,000. 1-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station).

Shinbashi’s ‘salaryman heaven’

Get lost in Harmonica Yokocho

ASAKUSA: HOPPY-DORI AND HATSUNE KOJI When to go: lunchtime-10pm Don’t fret if the name ‘Hoppy Street’ doesn’t ring a bell – this Asakusa alley, named after the classic beerlike beverage (and also known as Stew Street), isn’t exactly high on the list of standard tourist attractions in the area. But that’s part of the charm of this short strip, located on the west side of Sensoji Temple next to an off-track betting zone. Although small and unpretentious, Hoppy Street boasts an impressive collection of storefront bars that offer drinks (and more) at very reasonable rates. Traditionally, patrons at these watering holes were a harddrinking crowd, sipping beers as they scanned the latest horse-racing broadsheets, but the atmosphere has changed in recent years, as young locals and travellers have also discovered the spot. Meanwhile, if you pass by the Wins Asakusa off-track betting spot, you’ll find yourself in Hatsune Koji, renowned for the hordes of Hoppy drinkers who sit outside the bars debating and predicting race results. Hoppy-dori: 2-5 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). Hatsune Koji: 2-7-21 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).

You’ll never go hungry here SHINBASHI/YURAKUCHO: GADO-SHITA When to go: 11am-11pm You’ll never go hungry between Shinbashi and Yurakucho stations, as eateries line the street all the way from north to south. Known as ‘salaryman heaven’, this area is home to countless yakitori joints, standing-only bars, Chinese restaurants and Korean barbecue houses. Prices are cheap, to say the least, but quality is rarely sacrificed. You’ll see more smoke and bustle the closer you get to Yurakucho, whereas the drunken, jolly atmosphere is present throughout the street. The noise and vibrations from the trains passing overhead only add to the charm. Area around 1 Shinbashi, Minato; 1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda; 2 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Shinbashi, Yurakucho stations). For more nightlife, bars and clubs, go to timeout.com/tokyo

For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 55

Nightlife

KICHIJOJI: HARMONICA YOKOCHO KOENJI: DAIICHI ICHIBA AND GADO-SHITA When to go: lunchtime-11pm When to go: lunchtime-11pm First built as a flea market in the Koenji’s two yokocho areas each early postwar years, this collection have their own characteristics. of alleys on the north side of The Daiichi Ichiba used to be Kichijoji Station is now best known a produce market but now for its many small but excellent hosts mainly Asian restaurants, restaurants, which began popping plus a few traditional watering up in the late ’90s. You’ll also holes. Try raw noodles or find grocery and clothing bánh mì sandwiches at stores here, along the Vietnamese spots with specialist or fill up on Korean shops for goodies goodies at the like yokan (sweet izakaya – all great bean jelly), stops on a Koenji pork cutlet gourmet tour. and taiyaki Gado-shita, on (fish-shaped the other hand, pancakes filled is a railway with anko bean Try raw noodles underpass teeming paste). The bustle in Koenji with bars and yakitori is turned up at night, places.The welcoming when diners crowd the atmosphere and hustle and trendy standing-only bars and bustle are what keep patrons miniature eateries. For the complete coming back. Daiichi Ichiba: experience, try spending an entire 3-22-8 Koenji-Kita, Suginami night bar-hopping without exiting the (Koenji Station). Gado-shita: Area harmonica-like mini-maze. around 3 Koenji-Minami, Suginami 1-1 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Koenji Station). (Kichijoji Station).

LGBT

BOURBONNE & ESM The pioneers of ‘josou’ culture tell us about how cross-dressing emerged in Tokyo – and why straight men are also getting fancy these days. Words Kosuke Shimizu

LGBT

f you’ve watched any variety show on Japanese TV lately, you’ll have noticed there’s usually at least one male entertainer dressed up as a woman. The trend has become so popular that it’s even spawned its own genre: onee talent. The slang term ‘onee’ refers to ‘girly men’, who are thought of as feminine either because of their appearance or behaviour, regardless of whether they’re in full drag or not. It’s an odd cultural development when you consider that prejudice against sexual minorities remains strong in Japan, with very few public personalities being openly gay. How, then, have these cross-dressers come to be so warmly welcomed on TV? Introducing Bourbonne and Esmeralda, pioneers of the drag show scene in Shinjuku’s Ni-chome – Tokyo’s premier gay neighbourhood – and, consequently, of ‘josou’ (the Japanese word for anyone dressed as a woman). Bourbonne, who also works as a freelance writer, has gone from events organiser, to editor of a gay magazine, to host at a mixed bar with rotating drag performers. Esmeralda is a TV screenwriter by day and a ‘horror drag’ performer by night, showing off gory moves to welcoming audiences. The duo’s drag careers first took off in 1994, at an anniversary party for UC-Galop, an online bulletin board set up by Bourbonne for the LGBT crowd. ‘It was a gay party, so dressing up like women seemed like an obvious choice,’ says Bourbonne. At the time, drag shows were rare in Tokyo, with performers as few as suitable venues. However, as the forward march of Japanese club culture in the late ’80s and early ’90s led to an increase in gay-friendly parties, a need for performers arose and homegrown cross-dressers proved popular. According to Esmeralda, the infant scene lacked reference points: ‘Nobody here even knew the word “drag queen” back then. It wasn’t until ’94, when “The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert” came out and RuPaul got his big break [that the idea of drag queens found traction].’ Along with fellow UC-Galop member Saseko, Bourbonne and Esmeralda founded Uppercamp, a drag performance group with comedic elements – their show often included parodies of Japanese actresses and pop ‘idols’. Deliberately setting themselves apart from other drag queens, they say they prefer to be called

josou. ‘We don’t call ourselves drag queens. There are a lot of conditions associated with that term, while josou simply refers to our appearance. I guess it’s a bit of a cop out,’ says Esmeralda. Still, this doesn’t mean they don’t encourage all kinds of cross-dressing styles, including those that go against the usually extravagant yet formalist world of orthodox drag. After all, both Esmeralda’s horror-heavy show and Bourbonne’s cosplayincorporating comedy draw on a more liberal approach to dressing as a woman. Uppercamp’s success saw the group’s style earn acceptance, with that style eventually forming a basis for the scene in Tokyo. While refined drag obviously remains a tradition-rich, central part of gay society, the diversity of performers and styles is one of the most attractive facets of Tokyo’s josou culture. Which is how it’s come to spill over into the social mainstream. The impact of josou celebrities, along with the saturation of the cosplay trend, has led to a notable increase in cross-dressers. Many have begun wearing women’s clothing and make-up purely as a hobby, as opposed to being an expression of gender identity or sexual preference. It’s not uncommon for straight men to work at josou bars or dress up as female anime characters or cute pop idols. There’s even niche heterosexual porn in which the male performer is referred to as an ‘actress’. But those who are dressing up as women for fun are bound to be ignorant of or indifferent to the origins of drag and the social pressures faced by sexual minorities. How, then, do Bourbonne and Esmeralda, who have battled against discrimination for decades, view this developing trend? Bourbonne points out that even such casual forms of expression can help make minorities

It’s not uncommon for straight men to work at josou bars or dress up as female anime characters

56 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

more acceptable in the public eye: ‘A person’s gender and sexuality aren’t things that can be clearly demarcated – they’re matters of degree. Showing the public that these [homosexual or otherwise] desires exist and are shared by a significant amount of people just might be meaningful in itself.’ This opinion emphasises the idea that crossdressing involves far more than just drag queen shows: it challenges the belief that gay men are the only true representatives of josou. Even more than its status as a way of overcoming social prejudice, the most potent driving force behind josou culture may be its tolerance of all forms of human desire. Going beyond the entertaining flamboyance of drag queens and the message of social justice, the scene is popular because it is so liberal, promoting a healthy level of irresponsibility. In short, the message of josou can be summed up like this: accept the diversity found in people, but don’t forget to have a good time while you’re at it.

MERALDA LGBT The adventures ofâ&#x20AC;Ś Esmeralda (far left and second from far left) and Bourbonne (third from left and centre) For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 57

Health & Fitness Beats down dog ‘Back flying’ in Acro Yoga

Health & Fitness

New Year

! X O DET

Forget those flimsy resolutions – what you need is a practical list of inspiring ways to drop the festive season kilos and brighten the mood for 2015. Kumi Nagano gives you a headstart

ACRO YOGA

The gist Incorporating elements of yoga, acrobatics and Thai massage, Acro Yoga usually involves three people: a ‘flier’, who is supported by a ‘base’, and a ‘spotter’ who makes sure no-one goes, erm, flying. The flier has the most fun, adopting various poses while balancing on the base. Pose to try During the Pike pose, the flier hangs

upside down with the hip joint acting as a fulcrum. As your body tries to anchor itself, you may experience a fear of falling but gradually you learn to surrender to your ‘base’ partner. It helps release accumulated toxins by stimulating lymph nodes, digestion and blood circulation. Your muscles also get a natural massage. Where to try it Risa of www.acroyogajapan. com holds two kinds of classes at Studio

Artriz: a more relaxed one that emphasises stretching and Thai massage, and a more ‘acrobatic’ one. You can either bring along your own yoga partner, or team up with someone at the class. 1F Yokohama Bldg, 8-10-8 Kameido, Koto (Kameido Station). 03 5875 5761. www.triangle-c.com/sa/index.html (Japanese only). From ¥3,050 per class. To book a class, email Risa at info@risa-yoga.com.

ASTRO YOGA AND DETOX DIET

to help detox both body and mind, so if you’re in need of more than just a body makeover, feel free to chat to him about any existential issues you may be wrestling with. Once you have your plan, you can sign up for yoga classes at the studio. And you can try out the kind of foods recommended for you at Deva Deva Café, which is affiliated with Veda Plus and serves organic, Ayurvedic dishes (reservations essential). Veda Plus: 201 Sansui Heim Bldg, 3-10-9 Moto-Azabu, Minato (Azabujuban Station). 03 6434 5448. Vedaplus-motoazabu.jp. ¥6,000 for 40 minutes. For information or to make a booking, email info@vedaplus-motoazabu.jp. Deva Deva Café: 2F Kichijo Bldg, 2-14-7 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 04 2221 6220. www.devadevacafe. com (Japanese only). For reservations, email info@vedaplus-motoazabu.jp.

The gist Based on the date, time and place of your birth, Vedic astrology is used to work out where your mental and physical strengths and weaknesses lie. Then a specialised plan is drawn up including yoga poses and a detox diet (incorporating Ayurvedic principles) to suit your constitution. But what is Vedic astrology? It differs from Western astrology in certain fundamental ways (it’s considered to be more scientific by those in the know), but essentially it does the same thing – describes who you are and predicts future events and trends in your life. Where to try it At Veda Plus you’ll meet astrologer Jyoti Alkesh, who is world-renowned in the fields of Vedic astrology, palm reading and vastu (Indian feng shui). Based on his reading of your chart, he’ll offer lifestyle advice 58 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

ISOLATION TANK

FASTING SCHOOL

CUPPING (BAGUAN THERAPY)

The gist Also called suction cup therapy, cupping helps your body to excrete toxins by placing a rounded glass on your body and gently drawing skin upwards into a vacuum, thereby mobilising blood flow. How does it work? As the pull of the suction is quite strong, it allows ‘dirty’, congested blood to be drawn close to the surface of the skin, helping it to push out toxins and waste, such as cholesterol deposits and lactic acid which accumulates in tense muscles. Treatment is focused on the back as this is where the meridians of the internal organs are concentrated. Although it looks painful, in reality it doesn’t hurt that much – after a while, you begin to lose the sensation of the individual cups, feeling more like there’s something heavy being placed on your entire back. The cups are taken off after ten minutes. Don’t be surprised if you catch a whiff of something odorous – that’s your bodily waste, my friend. You’ll probably be left with big red bruises but they’ll disappear after about a week. Where to try it Electric or hand-operated pumps are favoured by some clinics, but at Ou Shinkyu Chiryouin, the traditional Chinese method is used: alcohol is swabbed on the inside of the glass cup and set alight, creating a near-perfect vacuum. 2F, 2-18-3 Miyasaka, Setagaya (Kyodo Station). 03 5450 4189. www.ou-hari.com. ¥6,000 per session, first time consultation fee ¥2,000. For bookings, email sin@ou-hari.com.

TRAMPOLINING

The gist You jump up and down. Yup, it’s a trampoline. So why are we recommending it? Because it’s way more fun than jogging on a treadmill, and you can take your whole family along while you work off that Christmas pudding. Plus, jumping five minutes on a trampoline is said to be equivalent to jogging one kilometre. Where to try it You’ll find Trampoland Tokyo inside a large, renovated warehouse in Itabashi. They have five trampolines, all with netted walls and sponges between them, so it’s safe for beginners and children. They also have a trampoline wall for ‘snowboarding’. 2-46-3 Itabashi, Itabashi (ItabashiKuyakushomae, Shimo-Itabashi, Itabashi stations). 03 6322 6966. www.trampoland.com. Registration ¥1,080 (includes starter lesson), ¥1,080 per 30 minutes. For info and to make a booking, email mineck@trampoland.com. For more Health & Fitness listings and reviews, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Health & Fitness

The gist A one-week plan during which you fast for three days (you’re still allowed enzyme juice and veggie soup) and then eat recovery meals for three days (small amounts of porridge and other foods that are gentle on digestion). If full-on fasting’s too hard, then you can try the Detox Course, a ‘half fast’ during which you can eat fruit and vegetables, or the Balanced Diet Course, which includes Japanese foods and limits daily calorie intake to 1,000. You can also opt for the weekend-long Short Fasting Plan. Why you should try it When you fast, you allow your internal organs to rest and this helps your body get rid of accumulated waste. Plus, your body will burn stored fat so you’re also likely to drop those extra kilos piled on over the festive season. Where to try it Yasuragi no Sato Honkan is in Shizuoka, giving you the chance to have a real break from busy Tokyo. During your stay, you can spend your time as you like: doing yoga, taking forest walks, having massages or enjoying a hot spring bath. 1741-49 Yawatano, Ito, Shizuoka (IzuKogen Station). 0557 55 2660. www.y-sato.com (Japanese only). Prices start at ¥15,120 for two days, and ¥77,760 for the one-week plan. For more info and to book a spot, email izu@y-sato.com.

The gist You float naked in a small ‘tank’ filled with salt water and no light. It’s nicer than it sounds. What’s the point? The idea is sensory deprivation, to allow you to enter a deep meditative state that is free from gravity. Also known as a float tank, it was developed in the ’50s by Dr John C Lilly who wanted to test what happens to the brain when it’s cut off from all stimuli. Supposedly, being in the float tank increases Theta brainwaves, which helps you access your subconscious mind and rid your brain of random, distracting thoughts, and ultimately helps you become more resistant to stress. Where to try it Frequented by locals and foreigners, Tokyo Shirokane Float Center includes Epsom salt in their tanks’ water, which helps your body excrete toxins and excess fluid, improves circulation, and soothes tired muscles. You’ll also enjoy the added bonus of your skin looking and feeling smoother. 1-12 -22 Shirokane, Minato (Shirokane-Takanawa Station). 050 3558 6900. floatcenter.jp (Japanese only). ¥5,000 for 60 minutes. To make a booking, email info@floatcenter.jp.

Film Manga comes to life As suspense builds for the 2015 release of ‘Attack on Titan’, Matt Schley explores the growing trend of bringing Japanese comics to the big screen

Film

ven for residents of Tokyo whose knowledge of anime doesn’t extend much beyond ‘Dragon Ball Z’, it would’ve been hard not to take notice of ‘Attack on Titan’, the manga-cum-anime about the battle between humanity and giants whose primary food source is, uh, humanity. The manga comic, which debuted in 2009, has been adapted into anime, video games, a Marvel comics crossover, a Universal Studios Japan 4D show, and now not one but two liveaction films, both set to debut in summer 2015. ‘Attack on Titan’ is just the latest manga to get the live-action treatment. Though adapting comics for the big screen is a practice that stretches back to the ’70s (see ‘Lady Snowblood’, which heavily inspired Quentin Tarantino’s ‘Kill Bill’), in recent years it’s become a practical industry, with 2014 alone seeing the release of several high-budget releases that did big bucks at the Japanese box office. Just what’s behind this manga-to-live-action trend? One factor, no doubt, is the range of audiences that live-action adaptations attract. Take ‘Rurouni Kenshin’, the 2013-2014 film trilogy about assassin-turned-hero Kenshin and his efforts to bring peace to Meiji-era Japan. It scored huge numbers by bringing in two distinct groups: fans nostalgic for the original manga (sometimes called ‘Samurai X’ abroad) which ran from 1994 to 1999, plus fans of heartthrob stars Takeru Satoh and Emi Takei. Another factor is the advancement of computer graphics technology, which has turned previously unadaptable manga into candidates for bigscreen treatment. Just look at November’s ‘Parasyte’, the first half of a two-film adaptation of the ’90s manga about a boy and his parasitic but friendly talking alien hand. Reportedly bought up by a Hollywood studio in the early Noughties, ‘Parasyte’s’ time in rights purgatory ended up being the best thing for it, with director and visual effects whiz Takashi Yamazaki bringing the film’s host of creepy baddies to life in way that would’ve been impossible (or looked horribly cheesy) just a few years ago. The same goes for ‘Attack on Titan’ – a big part of the success or failure of the live-action films will rest on how effectively they can recreate the manga’s lumbering, ceaselesslygrinning giants. Luckily, the adaptation is the hands of director Shinji Higuchi, a veteran SFX man whose effects work stretches back to the ‘Gamera’ films of the ’90s.

No Photoshop required Pretty boy Haruma Miura stars as Eren in ‘Attack on Titan’

It’s anyone’s guess what Higuchi’s titans will look like, but his trial run can be seen in an ‘Attack on Titan’/Subaru tie-in commercial that debuted in early 2014, featuring a Subaru Forester outrunning some live-action giants (YouTube it!). A series of November-released teaser posters for the films, showing off the cast in costume, included new characters not in the manga, setting off a flurry of speculation online about how close to the original story the films will cleave. Our not-so-controversial prediction: regardless of how these movies turn out, the profit they’re going to rake in will be titanic. For upcoming events and movie reviews see timeout.com/tokyo

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SOMETHING FOR THE LADIES These manga-to-live-action films aren’t just action flicks – plenty of shoujo (young women) manga have also been given the live-action green light in recent years. November saw the release of ‘Clover’, an office-lady love triangle romance based on a late ’90s manga, which starred none other than ‘Rurouni Kenshin’ co-star Emi Takei. And in December came ‘Princess Jellyfish’, the story of a no-boys-allowed university dorm occupied exclusively by young female otaku. An exhibition at Shibuya’s Parco building in anticipation of the film required male guests to don a piece of female clothing before entering.

Promotional feature

THE BEST OF ROBOT RESTAURANT

LOCAL INSIGHT

THE BEST MOMENTS History highlights

It’s very hard to pick our favourite moments at Tokyo’s most mind-boggling show, but we’ve narrowed it down to four ‘bests’ and a host of highlights. Words Annemarie Luck AUGUST 2012 THE FIRST SHOW ‘Tokyo hasn’t seen anything like this since the Bubble Era!’ This was the kind of exclamation being thrown around when Robot Restaurant launched with a bang two years ago.

s NOVEMBER 2012 KING ROBOTA IS BORN The star of the show was shipped in from overseas and made his shiny grand appearance to whoops of surprise and elation from the glowstick-shaking audience.

s Bring this issue of Time Out Tokyo magazine with you to Robot Restaurant and get ¥1,000 off your bill.

HOW TO BOOK

Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily (four on weekends), starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm, and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥6,000, excluding food and drinks. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

OCTOBER 2013 NOW THERE’S A LOUNGE And it’s as glittery and fanciful as the rest of the place. This is where you warm up before the main show with drinks, snacks and entertainment courtesy of a metallic-clad angel band. MARCH 2014 KATY PERRY RETURNS After her first visit in November 2013, Katy Perry came back for more jaw-dropping entertainment after just a few months. Look out for high-energy taiko drummers in her next music video then… JUNE 2014 COLDPLAY SHOWS UP What can we say, there’s nothing like laser lights, over-the-top robots and pretty girls in bikinis to take one’s mind off a sticky stretch of ‘ conscious uncoupling’.

IMAGES: TIME OUT TOKYO

BEST KAWAII COSTUME There’s no question – the dancers ooze sex appeal and cuteness in equal measure. But on our last visit we noticed a new set of outfits had been introduced featuring feathery miniskirts and headdresses. Robot Restaurant range of Halloween costumes? Just throwing it out there.

APRIL 2013 MUSE SHOOTS A MUSIC VID Picture Matt Bellamy cloaked in red fur and sitting in the seat of a massive lady ’bot.This is just one of the scenes included in Muse’s music video for ‘Panic Station’, which was partly shot inside Robot Restaurant.

BEST DANCE CHOREO Oh, to be a fly on the wall when these robots were learning their dance moves. It can’t be easy trying to pull off moves like Jagger in this clunky suit, but the ’bots never miss a beat, perfectly in sync with their feathery co-dancers at all times.

BEST ROBOT ON WHEELS It’s got to be this guy, who we presume served as inspiration for OK Go’s new music video – the band recently revealed that their visit to Robot Restaurant influenced the vid, which sees them ‘dancing’ around on ‘scooter chairs’. We really, really want what this robot’s got.

BEST INTER-SPECIES BATTLE It’s a toss-up between the larger-than-life panda and the ape-carrying dragonfly, but when the latter breathed spectacular fireworks in the face of one fierce-looking alien robot, we were sold.

Travel & Hotels Things to do in the snow

Travel & Hotels

Of course there’s skiing, but there’s also snowshoeing, ice monsters and meeting the most chilled out monkeys ever. Nick Narigon lines up your winter to-do list

Mind the monsters Zao’s snow-covered trees create a wondrous ski course

here’s a reason the Winter Olympics were twice held in Japan (1972 and 1998). Go outside of Tokyo and you’ll discover the country is a winter playground full of plush ski runs, snow festivals and ice sculptures. Like every other season in Japan, winter offers an abundance of themed festivals, events and exotic displays – and we’re here to help you find your perfect winter expedition.

GO ON A SKI DAYTRIP

Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort For first-time snowbirds in Japan, look no further than Gala Yuzawa in Niigata Prefecture. Just over an hour away from Tokyo by bullet train, the resort has its very own station and the ski lift leaves directly from here. How convenient is that! The resort features 16 courses for every level of skier and elevations ranging from 358m to 1,181m. Just be ready to battle the crowds. While the lift lines move efficiently, the runs themselves tend to be littered with downed skiers and resting snowboarders, creating something of an obstacle course. If you are looking for something a little more remote and private, get off the train one stop earlier at Echigo-Yuzawa Station and take a free shuttle bus to Yuzawa Kogen (tinyurl.com/ TOTyuzawa). Either way, you’ll be able to return to Tokyo well before last order. How to get there From Tokyo Station take the Joetsu Shinkansen (take the train named MaxTanigawa or Tanigawa) to Gala-Yuzawa Station (80 minutes). More info www.galaresort.jp/winter/english

COMBINE SKIING WITH A FIRE FESTIVAL

Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort Featuring 13 public hot springs, this quaint village north of Nagano City makes a fantastic onsen getaway. It’s also a great remote ski resort, on par with the courses used in nearby Hakuba and Iizuna during the 1998 Winter Olympics. Skiers can leisurely explore the mountain, taking in the stunning views on any of the resort’s 36 courses, including the twokilometre Uenotaira Snow Park. The highlight is the apres-ski walk through town, when you can dress in a yukata and explore the abundance of relaxing public hot springs for which the village is famous. Also, the wild spectacle of the Dosojin Fire Festival held annually on January 15 is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. How to get there From Tokyo Station take the Nagano Shinkansen to Nagano Station (90 minutes), then take the Nagaden Express bus to Nozawa Onsen (75 minutes). More info www.nozawaski.com/winter/en Where to stay Haus St. Anton Hotel & Jam Factory. 0269 85 3597. st-anton.jp

SEE THE SNOW ART Sapporo Snow Festival, Feb 5-11 The very first Sapporo Snow Festival took place in 1950 when students built six snow statues in Odori Park. These

62 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

days, the annual week-long spectacle attracts over two million people, who come to see the extravagant snow and ice sculptures lining the park, the grounds at the Community Dome (aka Tsudome) and the main street in Susukino. Past sculptures have reached up to 20m in height and ranged from miniature replicas of the Taj Mahal to a detailed Tsuruga Castle. While in Sapporo, visit the family-friendly Takino Snow World (tinyurl. com/TOTtakino), take a trip to the historical town of Otaru, sip on suds at the Asahi Beer Garden (tinyurl.com/TOTasahi) or hit the slopes at one of Niseko’s ski resorts (www.niseko.ne.jp/en). How to get there From Ueno Station take the Hokutosei sleeper train to Sapporo Station (16 hours). Or, it’s approximately a 90-minute flight from Haneda Airport to New Chitose Airport. More info www.snowfes.com/english Where to stay Royton Sapporo. 011 271 2711. www.daiwaresort.jp/en/royton

BEHOLD THE ICE MONSTERS

Zao Hot Springs Ski Resort One of the natural wonders of this ski resort in Yamagata Prefecture is the ‘ice monsters’ (juhyo) found at the top of the mountain during the coldest months. Nicknamed ‘shrimp tails’ by the locals, these natural phenomena are actually evergreen trees encapsulated in snow. There are specific climatic conditions required for them to appear, meaning that you can only see them at a limited number of mountains in northeastern Japan. A Juhyo Festival is held on January 31, and February is considered the best viewing season. While at Zao, enjoy the powder on 14 different slopes and 12 courses.

Hot but not bothered The most relaxed monkeys in the world

How to get there From Tokyo Station take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Yamagata Station (150 minutes), then take a local bus to Zao Hot Springs Ski Resort (40 minutes). More info tinyurl.com/TOTzao Where to stay Lodge Scole. 023 694 9320. lodgescole.com

Jigokudani Monkey Park Only here can you witness the whimsical Japanese macaques (aka snow monkeys) chilling in steamy hot spring waters like a troop of ‘ojisan’ at a public bath. The trek to the onsen inside Joshinetsu Kogen National Park near Shiga Kogen has become popular with tourists and voyeurs alike, who flock to watch these wild long-tailed monkeys climb down from the frigid mountains to warm up in the hot springs. Though the monkeys bathe yearround, January and February is when they are most photogenic. While in Shiga Kogen, check out any one of the 21 ski resorts in the area. How to get there From Tokyo Station take the Nagano ‘Asama’ Shinkansen to Nagano Station (90 minutes). Switch to the Nagano Dentetsu line and get off at Yudanaka Station (45 minutes), then take a bus to Kanbayashi Onsen (about 15 minutes). Jigokudani Monkey Park is 30 minutes on foot through a forest. More info tinyurl.com/TOTjigokudani Where to stay Villa Alpen. 0269 34 2731. tinyurl. com/TOTvilla-alpen

Nabana no Sato This one is not strictly snow related, but it’s too good to leave off the list – plus, when it does snow during the spectacular winter illuminations at Nabana no Sato, it makes the experience all the more out of this world. Located on the small island of Nagashima in Mie Prefecture, this botanical garden annually hosts a prismatic display of brilliant winter lights until March 31. Since Nagashima sits at the mouth of three rivers, 2015’s theme is a tribute to water. Millions of state-of-the-art LED lights will be used to create a long iridescent river, featuring tranquil waterfalls and rapids that appear to ripple. The combination of nature and LED is ethereal, creating a fantastical world. How to get there From Tokyo Station take the Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya Station (100 minutes). From Meitetsu Bus Center, next to the station, take a bus bound for Nagashima Onsen and get off at Nabana no Sato (30 minutes). More info tinyurl.com/TOTnagashima (Japanese only, although you can download an English ‘guidebook’), tinyurl.com/TOTmie-tourism

TRY SNOWSHOEING

Senjogahara marshland and Myoko Kogen Want to try something new, or maybe you’re just a glutton for punishment? Snowshoeing is gathering a small following in Japan and there are several spots where you can give it a whirl.

Travel & Hotels

MARVEL AT THE BATHING MONKEYS

VISIT A FANTASTICAL ILLUMINATED GARDEN

The Senjogahara marshland west of Nikko is abundant with streams, waterfalls and forests – a snowshoer’s dream. Several rest houses in the Sanbonmatsu parking lot offer shoe rentals from ¥500 for two hours. Also, west of Nikko is the 2,454m volcano Mount Myoko, the site of Myoko Kogen ski resort and where the All Japan National Mountain Snowshoeing Race is held every February. Myoko Kogen offers snowshoe trekking tours for both beginners and more advanced sportsmen. (Also, if you do visit Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort, they offer snowshoe rentals for ¥500.) How to get there Senjogahara marshland: from Asakusa Station take the Tobu Nikko line to Tobu Nikko Station (130 minutes), then take the Tobu bus bound for Yumoto Onsen and get off at Sanbonmatsu bus stop (about 70 minutes). Myoko Kogen: from Tokyo Station take the Nagano Shinkansen to Nagano Station (90 minutes), then take the Shinetsu line to Myoko-Kogen Station (45 minutes). More info tinyurl.com/TOTsenjogahara, myokokogen.net/snowshoe

Walk on snow It’s good for the calves

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Travel & Hotels

It’s a monk’s life Whether you’re seeking the key to enlightenment, want to sample vegetarian Buddhist cuisine, or just need to be somewhere with no cellphone reception, you should spend a night at Taiyoji temple. Words Ili Saarinen

Travel & Hotels

re Tokyo’s suffocating crowds, near-ceaseless noise pollution and hectic atmosphere taking their toll on you? Feel like your nerves need a complete rest, if only for a couple of days? Unlikely as it may sound, there’s no need to travel great distances in order to find peace of mind – Taiyoji, a Zen temple deep in the mountains of Saitama’s Chichibu region, offers a retreat complete with first-hand insight into the daily life of a lone Buddhist monk. Originally conceived as a service for visiting pilgrims, shukubo (temple lodging) is now open to anyone interested in taking a break from the daily grind. Our road to enlightenment started at Mitsumineguchi Station, the last stop on the wonderfully retro Chichibu Railway line, where Sotatsu Asami greeted us and drove us up the winding mountain roads to the temple. Impeccably friendly and courteous, Mr Asami is Taiyoji’s only resident monk and also runs the inn all by himself, yet consistently appears as if he’s got all the time in the world. Upon arrival, the first thing we noticed was the location: the temple is perched on a mountainside high above a river valley, providing an astounding view of the Mitsumine (‘three peaks’) mountains of Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. Once we were all settled in the sturdy main building, the ‘activities’ commenced with an introduction to sutra copying, which tested our patience and steadiness of hand,

‘I am a hollow reed…’ Ili embarks on 24 hours of Zen training

THREE MORE SHUKUBO TO TRY KOMADORI SANSO Takigyo or ‘waterfall training’, practised by steely-minded ascetics for centuries, is said to both build character and be great for your circulation. To try it, head over to the Komadori lodge up on Mt Mitake, where the proprietors will teach you correct form, provide you with a loincloth and take you all the way up to the Ayahiro waterfall to get splashed. Rates vary by season, but start at around ¥10,000 per person for one night’s accommodation and the takigyo experience. 155 Mitakesan, Ome, Tokyo. 04 2878 8472. www.komadori.com

MURYOKOIN Located a few hours south of Osaka, the World Heritage-designated Mt Koya is one of the most popular places for shukubo and is very convenient if you’re staying in the Kansai area. The site is home to more than 100 temples, including the historical Muryokoin, which offers both reasonably priced lodging and service in English. Rates from ¥6,480 per person for bed and breakfast. 611 Koyasan, Koya-cho, Ito-gun, Wakayama. 07 3656 2104. www.muryokoin.org/int

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OSHI RYOKAN Built to provide shelter for pilgrims visiting the ancient Togakushi Shrine, Oshi Ryokan’s main building has stood for more than 250 years but now offers plenty of modern conveniences, including 24-hour jet baths and TVs. When visiting, make sure to try the soba noodles, a renowned local speciality. Rates from ¥6,000 per person (plus tax) for bed and breakfast. 2332 Hokosha-Togakushi, Nagano. 02 6254 2007. www.oshiryokan.com/eng1.htm

Zen), practised in a purpose-built hall that boasts some of the best views on the premises. Listening to the detailed instructions, we were happy to learn that lapses in concentration wouldn’t be punished with a swift swing of the ‘encouragement stick’ (unless you like that sort of thing, in which case you can ask for it). It wasn’t until the mindpurifying but physically challenging session (who knew sitting in half-lotus for half an hour could be so hard?) that we noticed the perfect quiet. This truly is a majestically serene place, which explains why Taiyoji has been frequented by those seeking solitude and inner peace ever since its founding back in 1313. It had only been 20 hours or so, but heading back to Tokyo life after all this felt bittersweet. On the one hand, we were probably

well-equipped to handle everyday pressures after all that mental strengthening. But we still couldn’t shake the thought that just staying up in the mists, blissfully out of reach from phone calls and work emails, sure felt like the more attractive alternative.

From salaryman to monk Sotatsu Asami runs Taiyoji on his own

ESSENTIAL INFO

Contact Reservations can be made in English by phone on 04 9454 0296 or via tinyurl.com/TOTtaiyoji-booking. 459 Otaki, Chichibu, Saitama. www.taiyoji.com. Cost ¥9,000 per night, per person. Includes dinner and breakfast. Participation in all activities is voluntary (but highly recommended). How to get there Take the Seibu Express from Ikebukuro to SeibuChichibu Station, then walk a few minutes to Ohanabatake Station and ride the Chichibu Railway to Mitsumineguchi Station. Pick-up service must be arranged when booking. Total journey time to the temple is approximately 2.5 hours. For more travel features, go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Travel & Hotels

and also whetted our appetite just in time for the shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine) dinner. After our tasty vegetarian meal, made mainly with ingredients sourced from local farmers, the good monk taught us more about Zen, its concept of ‘mu’ (‘without’ or ‘nothingness’) and how meditation can help us rid ourselves of everyday pressures. A stressedout salaryman in his past life, Mr Asami sure knows what he’s talking about – and with his teachings in mind, we closed out the day with a soak in the outdoor bath. Heading to bed early turned out to be an inspired move, as we were able to get up in time to breathe in the clear morning air and catch the sun rise above the nearby peaks. Next, it was finally time to try out zazen (‘seated meditation’, the core of

Travel & Hotels

U O Y COULDCHHIKE TO HIT TOKYO ? FROM OSHIMA HIR

Cal Widdall took up the challenge, and discovered that if you want to travel 810km with strangers in Japan, all you need is a ‘kind’ face and a ‘kawaii’ signboard

Travel & Hotels

hen I told Japanese My first ride was with an American friends of my idea to named Yuki. I’d just arrived at a hitchhike to Hiroshima, service area (SA) near Fujigaoka and my plan was met with shock, gave him a friendly ‘konnichiwa’, amusement and the question, ‘Can when his New York-accented reply of you do that?’ I wasn’t really sure, to ‘Hey man, how’s it going?’ surprised be honest, but stories I’d heard had me almost as much as his offer of a made it sound easy. And ever since lift. Could it really be this easy? I’d read ‘Hokkaido Highway Blues’, It was. After just five minutes at the Will Ferguson’s captivating account next SA, Hiratsuka, a heavy-set man of traversing the entire country from in a leather jacket hopped off his south to north in strangers’ cars, I’d motorbike and beckoned me over. wanted to experience it myself. ‘Come with me,’ he said as he strode During the journey, I asked the up to the nearest man and asked same two questions to every driver him to give me a lift. I presumed they who stopped for me: had they seen must know each other, but when he a hitchhiker in Japan before, and approached another I realised he OKAYAMA HYOGO why had they picked me up. Answers was conscripting complete strangers KYOTO TOTTORI y to my cause. The second guy said to the first were mixed, but the swa s e r Exp second question evoked an almost he’d give me a lift. ‘We’re going to ny o Sa HIROSHIMA ‘Because unanimous response: Atami,’ his daughter OSAKA told me once we you’re aMiyazima guest in Japan. I want to be were on the highway, ‘Gotemba’s kind NARA a good host.’ Seems omotenashi of out of the way, but my dad wanted (Japanese hospitality) is alive andKAGAWA to help so we’ll take you there.’ well, even on the roads… Once in Gotemba, it only took ten minutes for me to be picked up by Naoyo, a medical equipment TOKYO TO OSAKA salesman on his way to meet old Kilometres hitched: 506, on the friends. The next two rides were Tomei and Meishin expressways Number of hours: ten (by comparison, with young families: the first were TOCHIGI it takes 155 to 175 minutes by TOYAMA moving house and made space by shifting boxes from the car into a shinkansen; nine to ten hours by GUNMA ISHIKAWA truck following behind; the second local train) SAITAMApark were returning from a safari Number of cars: six FUKUI GIFU

NAGANO

YAMANASHI

TOKYO

KANAGAWA Gotemba

KYOTO SHIGA HYOGO

OSAKA

AICHI

Fujigaoka

and I squeezed in between two child seats. By the sixth and final ride, I was no longer bothering to put my backpack down while I waited. I was soon picked up by Koto and Yoshi, on their way to compete in a dirt bike race in Hyogo. They’d already motioned for me to get in before thinking to ask where I was going, and when I gave the unspecific answer of ‘Kansai’ (which includes Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto), they declared they would take me to Kyoto, conferring with each other about all the things a foreign tourist would enjoy there. After some confusion I explained that, if it made no difference to them, I’d prefer Osaka. ‘We’ll take you to Osaka then!’ After we’d spoken for a while the two began to talk earnestly between themselves, confirming each detail we’d just discussed. ‘He’s 27.’ ‘Amazing! He hitchhiked from Tokyo today!’ ‘Amazing, isn’t it? He’s from England!’ ‘Amazing! He’s going to Osaka!’ ‘Amazing…’ Eventually they exhausted all they’d learned about me, and I was tempted to feed the conversation with a few more tidbits but decided that was probably beneath someone as amazing as CHIBA me. Instead, I got to the questions I’d asked everybody that day.

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‘We stopped for you because you’re a good person,’ they answered. ‘But how did you know I was a good person?’ Koto looked thoughtful. ‘You have a kind face. And you’re travelling around Japan so you must be interested in our culture, you must be a good person, right?’ After a couple of hours we reached Osaka. While there, I learnt some Kansai-ben from drunken locals who were amused to hear their dialect in a foreign accent, and ate nothing but dishes ending in -yaki for three days.

WHAT TO DO IN OSAKA Whenever you ask a Japanese person what they did while on holiday in Osaka, they’ll reply with a list of things they ate, and for good reason. Don’t miss the grandeur of Osaka Castle and the warped imitation of American culture at entertainment district Amerikamura (aka Ame-mura), but also make sure you try okonomiyaki (Japanese pancakes), takoyaki (octopus balls) and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers). Where to stay Hostel 64 Osaka is in a good location and reasonably priced (from ¥3,900 per person for the Deluxe Dormitory), especially considering the ‘dorm’ consists of double beds separated by screens. 06 6556 6586. Hostel64.com

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Kilometres hitched: 301, on the Sanyo Expressway Number of hours: five (by comparison, it takes 80 minutes by shinkansen; five to six hours by local train) Number of cars: three

SPEAK JAPANESE

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TOKYO

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in the night sky. I couldn’t Gotemba Hiratsuka KYOTO make out the horizon, just a dark gap between SHIGA the AICHI SHIZUOKA lights emanating from the y HYOGO wa ess ground and the sky, creating To m e i E x p r the illusion of a landscape curling in the distance and OSAKA up MIE NARA enclosing me in a glittering ush ima Shrine ‘Kissing’ deers at Itsuk dome. The next day I took a night bus home, following the same 800km stretch of road WHAT TO DO WAKAYAMA I’d traversed purely by the IN HIROSHIMA kindness of strangers, though this The Hiroshima Peace Memorial time hot, uncomfortable and stealthMuseum is essential – no bitterness, wrestling for arm space with the no bias or propaganda, just remnants passenger beside me, guest rights of an atrocity and a conclusion: this no longer applicable. is what happened, it was horrific. Also visit the island of Miyajima to see Itsukushima Shrine and the best view of Hiroshima from atop Mt Misen. Where to stay J-Hoppers costs ¥2,500 per night for a dormitory room and is just a few minutes’ walk from the Peace Memorial Park. 082 233 1360. hiroshima.j-hoppers.com

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it’s not something you can tick off your checklist along with ‘spare batteries’, but it’s important. You don’t need to be fluent – I’m certainly not – but you should at least prepare a few phrases to put people at ease and let them know you don't have an axe in your bag. MAKE A SIGN You need to let people know where you’re going, though preferably as a direction rather than a location (people won’t stop if they mistakenly believe they have to take you all the way to your final destination). Since this is Japan, the more kawaii (cute) you can make it, the higher your chance of getting picked up. Mine was an A4 sheet of maniacal biro scrawlings hastily put together the night before, but I did add an all-important smiley face. STICK TO SERVICE AREAS (SAs) AND PARKING AREAS (PAs) Although there’s no specific law against hitchhiking in Japan, it is illegal to stop the flow of traffic. Stick to the SAs and PAs (as they’re denoted on Japanese maps) to avoid taking your next ride in a police car.

Mt Misen

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Travel & Hotels

To access the Sanyo Expressway in nearby Kobe, I took a train to within walking distance of Zenkai Parking Area. The first person to pick me up was a truck driver, transporting meat, who took me along to prevent him from falling asleep. My next companion was either partially deaf or so excited to have a foreign hitchhiker in his car that he lost all volume control and spent two hours shouting happily into my ear. As we parted ways he handed me his pack of mints. I don’t think he’d planned to but, struck with an urge to give me something, had chosen the only available item. We both looked down at the mints in surprise, him a little more than me, and I remembered that I had a souvenir gift of my own to give away – British mints packaged in a tin with a picture of a marching beefeater. We conducted our roadside international mint exchange and said goodbye. The final ride of my journey was with Youichi, a young man on his way home from work, who insisted on driving me to a hostel because a typhoon was approaching. I spent four days in Hiroshima and on the last night I slept on the island of Miyajima, on the summit of Mt Misen. Once the final ropeway left at 5.30pm and I was alone, I unravelled my sleeping bag on the observation deck. The sun set, myriad lights twinkled across the sea from Hiroshima and above me

Man wit h the FUKUI mints

TIPS FOR HITCHHIKING IN JAPAN

Getting Around Solaseed Air Various discounts are available for early bookings. Solaseed Air also offers a Visit Japan Deal for international travellers at ¥10,500 per flight. Tickets must be purchased at the ticketing counter at the airport as advance bookings are not available for this deal. www.skynetasia.co.jp/eng Skymark Flights from Tokyo to Kobe are around ¥14,000, and this price gets knocked down even further if you go for the Flex deal (no cancellations or reservation changes allowed). www.skymark.jp/en

Getting Around

Flying within Japan can be expensive, but there are several sweet deals to be had if you know where to look… IF YOU’RE VISITING FROM ABROAD The growth in budget airlines (known as LCCs in Japan) means that there are now more carriers to choose from and domestic flights have become much cheaper. Both JAL and ANA offer air passes especially for overseas visitors, allowing you to fly anywhere within Japan for a discounted price, paid per sector. Note that these are open only to non-Japanese passport holders residing out of Japan, and must be bought outside Japan and before leaving. Travellers must also arrive and depart Japan by international flights. There is a limit of one pass per airline per person and visit, and there may be restrictions on travel within peak holiday periods (March, mid-July to August, mid-December to early January).

JAL oneworld Yokoso/Visit Japan Fare Domestic flights cost ¥10,800 per sector and the fare can be used for travel to over 30 cities in Japan (served by JAL). Note that travel to and from Japan must be with oneworld member airlines, including JAL, British Airways, American Airlines and Qantas. www.jal.co.jp/ yokosojapan JAL Welcome to Japan Fare Domestic flights cost ¥14,040 per sector. Travellers using this fare can enter and leave Japan on any international carrier and can visit all cities in Japan served by JAL. www. jal.co.jp/yokosojapan/japanfare.html ANA Star Alliance Japan Airpass Domestic flights cost ¥10,000 to any destination in Japan, but travel to and from Japan must be with a Star Alliance carrier, including ANA,

68 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

United, Lufthansa and Singapore Airlines. tinyurl.com/ANAstaralliance ANA Visit Japan Fare Domestic flights are ¥13,000, but you need to book at least two flights. Travel to and from Japan can be on any international airline. tinyurl.com/ ANAvisitjapan ANA Experience Japan Fare Domestic flights are ¥10,800 and travellers can visit any city in Japan. www.ana-cooljapan.com/ejf IF YOU LIVE IN JAPAN On top of special deals for international travellers, flight deals offered by local LCCs are also a bargain if you plan to travel within Japan (some even operate cheap flights to nearby countries). Prices fluctuate depending on flight dates and time of booking.

Peach From Tokyo’s Narita International Airport you can only fly to Osaka, but prices are as low as ¥3,390 for early bookings on a weekday. There are more routes flying from Osaka, including cheap international flights to Seoul, Taiwan and Hong Kong. Flights from Osaka to Fukuoka can go for as low as ¥3,790, while Osaka to Okinawa can cost just ¥4,890 one way. www.flypeach.com/home.aspx Jetstar Offers a range of cheap deals: domestic flights from Tokyo to Osaka from ¥5,690, from Tokyo to Takamatsu from ¥5,590. The Australian airline also offers international flight bargains to the Gold Coast and Melbourne from ¥23,000. www.jetstar.com/jp/en/ home For more essential city info go to timeout.com/tokyo

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Cheap flights!

Going underground? Welcometo tothe theworldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smost mostefficient efficienttransport transport system Welcome

Getting Around Around Foryour yourfull, full,up-to-the-minute up-to-the-minuteguide guideto toTokyo Tokyovisit visit www.timeout.com/tokyo www.timeout.com/tokyo 77 69 For

Getting Around

70 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Get your skates on And by that we mean, ice skates. Here’s where to glide your way through winter in Tokyo

2. Toshimaen Ice Skate Rink Adjacent to both Toshimaen Amusement Park and its neighbouring cinema complex, this is an outdoor, old-school skating rink where the ice is still built up gradually from thin layers of frozen water. Re-entry is free for the same day, so it makes for a fun family outing as you can combine your skating experience with a quick trip to the amusement park or lunch at one of the nearby restaurants. Dance fantastically on ice as the rink illuminates with Christmas lights in the evening during weekends, public holidays and also every day between Dec 13-31 and on Jan 2. Dec 13-Mar 1. 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima (Toshimaen Station). www.tinyurl.com/TOTtoshimaen-skate 3. Diners Club Ice Rink in Tokyo Midtown Tokyo Midtown hosts this grand-scale outdoor skating rink, which can accommodate about 200 skaters and gets lit up beautifully by lights lining

the entire perimeter from 5pm until 10pm every day. Best thing is that you don’t even need to take off your skates to take a break in the heated ‘rest area’. Jan 7-Mar 8. Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato (Roppongi Station). www.tinyurl.com/ TOTmidtown-skate 4. Meiji Jingu Ice Skating Rink Always dreamed of becoming a pro ice skater? This is a good place to start manifesting that dream. This large-scale rink measures 30m by 60m and conforms to international ice skating tournament regulations. When it’s not being used for regional ice-skating training sessions or competitions, or for private skating groups, it’s generally open to the public all year round – and you can usually spot aspiring professional skaters showing off their stuff. Open year round. 11-1 Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku (Kokuritsu-Kyogijo Station). www.tinyurl.com/TOTmeiji-skate 5. Citizen Plaza Ice Rink Also an international competition-sized skating rink, this one is situated inside the Citizen Plaza entertainment complex in Shinjuku’s Takadanobaba neighbourhood. It’s open to the public year-round, except during early morning and early evening, when it’s reserved for private use. It provides a range of skating classes for everyone from kids to oldies, and in the same building you’ll also find a bowling alley and tennis courts. Open year round except year-end holidays. 4-29-27 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku (Takadanobaba Station). www.tinyurl. com/TOTcitizen

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Getting Around

1. White Sacas Toyotown Ice Garden This is one of the largest outdoor rinks in Tokyo and, thanks to the pretty lights that get strung around the skating area, it’s a popular spot for loved-up couples. Worried about wiping out in front of your date? Go a few times on your own first as staff here are happy to teach beginners how to glide around on the ice. They even offer helmets and elbow and knee protectors – great for kids or adults unconcerned about image. Advanced lessons for those with an interest in figure skating are also offered. Nov 14-Mar 6. Akasaka Sacas, 5 Akasaka, Minato (Akasaka Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTsacas-skate

[TOHOKU UPDATE]

Creative giving How Tohoku Artist Caravan is putting the colour back into Karakuwa. Words Nick Narigon

ike many others following the 3/11 earthquake and tsunami, Tokyo resident Jay Horinouchi was compelled to take action. The artist joined a volunteer organisation, and by May 2011 he was en route to Tohoku. Upon his arrival, it was the smell that hit him first, he says. The tsunami had washed up tons of polluted sludge from the ocean floor and deposited the muck everywhere. The stench, combined with thousands of dead fish swept in from the fish markets, was overwhelming. ‘It was foul, like sewage,’ he recalls. ‘The other thing was the rubble. All you could see were the foundations of houses. Everything was grey. It was a shocking experience.’ The California native spent his first two months shovelling up that muck in Ishinomaki and helping fishermen reclaim lost equipment, eventually branching out into different locations. When he was put in charge of a team, Horinouchi was given his choice of locations, and

picked Karakuwa in Kesennuma. He says he made an instant connection with the small oystering village during his first stint. ‘Karakuwa is a tightknit community – the neighbours go back generations,’ he says. ‘They were just very warm. They brought us in like family, fed us, and threw us a party at the end. I immediately felt I wanted to take care of Karakuwa.’ During the tsunami, six of Kesennuma’s 12 ports were destroyed. Out of a population of 6,000, over 100 were killed by the waves. ‘Karakuwa used to be a big tourist hotspot 30 or 40 years ago,’ says Horinouchi. ‘There is no beach: there are just cliffs and rocks jutting out, and the woods creeping over into the ocean. It’s a very beautiful location.’ As an artist, he knew he wanted to bring colour back to Karakuwa. While fundraising for a return trip, he met TokyoDex director Daniel Rosen, a kindred spirit seeking a way to use his creativity to do some good in Tohoku. In April 2013, they founded the Tohoku Artist Caravan project. ‘The timing was good,’ says Rosen. ‘There was still some awareness about

Tohoku and people were thinking about how to help out in a different way. Basically what we do here at TokyoDex is all about art and music and ideas. I was looking for a way we can give back to that community. Then, we basically pulled in every favour.’ Over Golden Week in 2013, they loaded up seven donated Mini Coopers with 30 artists and musicians and spent six days in Karakuwa painting murals on three existing, highly visible structures, including an oyster processing plant. They dubbed the initiative ‘Kesennuma Artscape’. Participating artists also conducted workshops with local children and the taiko group Kodo, and other bands played a concert in the newly rebuilt Jifukuji Temple. ‘It was really magic,’ says Rosen. ‘It was an incredible trip in a lot of ways. We had a lot of help that was quite cosmic. Everything just fell together.’ One of the main goals of the Tohoku Artist Caravan is to maintain continuity. Rosen says it is important that the residents know they are coming back, and that they leave a lasting impact on Karakuwa. The caravan returned in spring 2014 with 10 more artists to paint Gigi Cafe, a local fixture and a meeting point for community leaders. They chose a famous local landmark called

It’s about the power of art to rebuild communities

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Broken Stone as the motif. The top two metres of the towering rock pillar had broken off during a tsunami in the 1940s, but it remained intact during 3/11. Rosen and Horinouchi are planning another caravan for Golden Week in 2015, departing April 24. ‘Our hope is to change the narrative of the caravan,’ says Rosen. ‘The story is no longer about a response to a tragedy, it is about the power of art to rebuild communities.’ For more information, email info@ tokyodex.com or visit tinyurl.com/ TOTartist-caravan.

Kimonos took twodimensionality to masterful heights

The evolution of the kimono

In our last issue, Takeo Funabiki unravelled three big mysteries surrounding the kimono. Here, he looks at how this traditional form of clothing has changed from everyday to formal wear

he kimono has partly disappeared from Japanese society, but it remains deeprooted at the same time. What I mean by this is that while the kimono is no longer worn as an everyday form of dress, people still don it as formal attire for special occasions. As for why the tradition has changed, we need to begin with a sociological discussion on the meaning of clothes to us humans. Bear with me. Clothing goes 3D – except for the kimono Early clothes were made of fur, bark and other ‘flat’ materials that made covering the entire body difficult. Although this allowed for plenty of ventilation, the gaps also robbed the body of warmth. Advances in sewing with needles and thread led to ‘threedimensional’ clothing – for example, innovations like round armholes and fitted shoulders. While Western clothing evolved through such techniques, the kimono remained a ‘flat’ form of dress, but took the ancient idea of two-dimensionality to masterful heights. This is evident when you look at a properly folded kimono, which forms a single, perfect rectangle. All kimonos are cut in this identical form. Solving the problems of ‘flat’ garments In the case of the kimono, slippage is prevented with the obi, a piece of material used to securely fasten the kimono at the waist. Cold can be dealt with by wearing multiple layers of material on top of each other. Conversely, the kimono is worn

more loosely during the summer heat, allowing a slight breeze to pass through and keep the wearer cool – women’s kimonos even have openings in the sleeves, allowing extra air in. Summer kimonos, like the hitoe, are made of a single, unlined piece of cloth, ensuring the best possible ventilation. Tricks like these seem to resolve most of the issues caused by the kimono’s lack of flexibility, but the problem of restricted mobility still remains. To overcome such limitations, a range of techniques has been developed. The kimono can be thought of as consisting of two halves, with the obi marking the point where these come together. Opening or removing parts of the upper or lower halves of the garment, while leaving the intricately tied obi in place, increases freedom of movement. Because the kimono is usually folded to fit tightly on the upper body, improved arm mobility is achieved by slipping one sleeve off the shoulder (called kata-hada or ‘bare shoulder’). If this is still too restrictive, you can slip out of both sleeves (moro-hada or ‘both shoulders bare’), then tuck them into the obi to prevent them from getting in the way. On the other hand, if you need to increase lower body mobility, grabbing and raising the front part of the hem allows for a wider step. If running is called for, the back hem is lifted and tucked into the obi. If this still wasn’t enough, or the garment felt unbearably hot, men would remove it entirely and keep working in their loincloths (fundoshi). Although the loincloth is

a kind of underwear, its use in public was allowed – just look at sumo wrestlers. Of course, this mainly applied to men: in terms of modesty and exposing one’s skin, a woman could not, for instance, remove both kimono sleeves without attracting attention. In hot weather, women would loosen the top half of the kimono to allow air to pass through, or even push the fabric up around the neck and fold it in to produce an opening. When breastfeeding, women of course also loosened the front of their kimono, and most likely stripped out of their sleeves in private as well. In fact, foreign visitors to Japan around the end of the Edo era recorded their shock at both the way commoners walked around wearing only loincloths, and at how women had no misgivings when it came to showing skin. Convenience trumps tradition When Western clothing later became more prevalent, Western standards of modesty were also adapted, leading to the decline of techniques like stripping out of one’s sleeves or tucking the hem. Similarly, going through the trouble of dismantling one’s

kimono and tying up the sleeves came to be seen as inconvenient when compared to the ease of wearing shirts and trousers. This meant fewer and fewer people wore kimonos, a trend that has continued up to the present, with hardly any Japanese people wearing them in daily life today. Nevertheless, the kimono retains its cultural and historical value as a traditional form of clothing, and continues to be used at ceremonies like the Shichi-Go-San festival, Coming of Age celebrations, weddings and New Year’s events. This changed pattern of use has also resulted in the kimono developing a reputation as an expensive and luxurious garment, worn only for special occasions. The kimono’s formal status has brought with it the notion that the garment must always look straight and proper, so these days people pay professional kimono fitters to adjust the fabric and use cords and fasteners to create a perfect fit. If you’d like to see truly traditional kimono-wearing, your best bet is to watch a kabuki performance: you’ll be able to glimpse actors undoing their kimonos on stage and refitting them the old-school way, upholding the beauty of techniques now unknown to most Japanese people.

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or an essential Tokyo experience, you could do a lot worse than attend one of the city’s traditional matsuri (festivals), most of which are colourful and rowdy spectacles involving everything from mikoshi (portable shrine) carrying to float parades and dance performances. Checking out classics like Asakusa’s Sanja Matsuri, the Sanno Matsuri at Hie Shrine or November’s Tori no Ichi markets is of course highly recommended, but those in search of something a little more offbeat have plenty of options. If you’re looking to get in touch with the quirkier side of Tokyo traditions, these five fests should do the trick.

You know you’re in Tokyo when… Men put on lipstick to chase away evil spirits

THE TRUE SHOE FANATICS Kutsu no Megumi Matsuri Life sure would be tough without shoes – which must have been what inspired the shoe makers of Taito Ward to set up an annual footwear-focused celebration (well, in addition to the obvious commercial motivations). The festival comes complete with memorial services for heaps of old shoes, mikoshi parades featuring shoe-shaped portable shrines, an award ceremony for the year’s ‘best shoe wearer’ prizes, and obligatory discount sales. Tamahime Inari Shrine, 2-13-20 Kiyokawa, Taito. Held annually on the last weekend of November.

THE RED-LIPSTICK EXORCISTS Ikazuchi no Daihannya Men dressed in women’s clothing are hardly rare sights in Tokyo, but drag queens going door to door chasing away evil spirits does qualify as noteworthy. To see the spectacle, the roots of which reach back to the late Edo era, head over to Kasai in Edogawaku, where local youngsters (and a few geezers) gather every year to put on deep-red lipstick before embarking on their round of exorcism. Near Shinzoin Temple, 4-38-9 Higashi-Kasai, Edogawa. Held annually on the last Sunday of February.

Nakizumo Although not a Tokyo original, the ‘crying sumo’ tournament has found popularity in the capital as well, attracting a nice turnout of tough babies and wide-eyed members of the international press corps to Asakusa in April. The rules are simple: each holding a toddler, two sumo wrestlers hang out in a ring until one or both of the young ’uns start bawling – the louder kid is proclaimed the winner. Some bouts are action-packed while others end with both contestants falling asleep. Sensoji, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. Held annually in April.

THE SAKE-SERVING PRIESTS Doburoku Matsuri The good folks of Ningyocho sure know how to properly celebrate a harvest festival – that is, by partaking in the harvest right from the outset. As soon as the offering rites have been completed, priests treat the assembled masses to ample amounts of doburoku, a kind of thick, unrefined sake that’s actually far tastier (and more potent) than it looks. Make sure to stick around for the traditional kagura dancing. Koami Shrine, 16-23 Nihonbashi-Koamicho, Chuo. Held annually in late November.

THE TOYSPIRIT EMANCIPATORS Ningyo Kanshasai This quirky but commendable ceremony at Meiji Shrine features Shinto priests giving thanks to battered children’s toys for their years of faithful service, allowing their spirits to be freed. Thousands of toys are put up for this emancipation every year, ranging from traditional Japanese dolls to Mickey Mouse figures. Got some of your own to relinquish to the spirit world? No problem, but remove batteries first. Meiji Shrine, 1-1 Yoyogi-Kamizonocho, Shibuya. Held annually on the first Sunday of October.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo… Best restaurants

It’s time for the silly season, and what better time to release our lip-smacking list of the city’s top places to wine and dine. The countdown begins now. 74 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit timeout.com/tokyo

Available across Tokyo from December!

ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

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THE SUMO CRYBABIES