Issue 16: Amazing Tokyo for ¥1,000 by Time Out Tokyo

Enjoy the oﬀ-the-wall Edokko spirit of premodern Edo through the comic storytelling of Bunshichi Mottoi .

古典落語﹁文七元結﹂を通して江戸っ子と江戸下町の年末を体感

●Ticket Sales /チケット取扱い Sale on：4 September (Mon.) /発売日：9月4日（月） ◎International Purchase / 海外からも購入可能なプレイガイド・DMM.E https://event.dmm.com/ ・Peatix http://peatix.com/ ◎Domestic Purchase /国内向けプレイガイド・Tickets Today (International tourists ticket stations are in Ginza, Shibuya, Omotesando, Asakusa, & Shinjuku) http://ticketstoday.jp/ 03-6228-1062 /外国人観光客向けチケットステーション銀座店、渋谷店、表参道店、浅草店、新宿店)

http://ticketstoday.jp/ 03-6228-1062 ・Confetti（For English）/カンフェティ（英語ページ）http://www.confetti-web.com/en/ 0120-240-540（Weekdays 10：00∼18：00）・Youkiza Office (special website for online booking)

/結城座（特設サイト内でのインターネット予約対応）

http://www.youkiza.jp/ Organized by Arts Council Tokyo (Tokyo Metropolitan Foundation for History and Culture) Supported by and in cooperation with Tokyo Metropolitan Government Supported by Visit Sumida Tourism Office Produced by Public-interest incorporated Foundation Edo Marionette Theatre YOUKIZA

Edo String Puppetry & Comic Storytelling What Bunshichi Mottoi Did in Edo Old Town

江戸糸あやつり人形 × にんじょうばなし落語「人情噺文七元結ぶんしちもっとい」年の瀬に観る風物落語これぞ江戸っ子の心意気

December 20 (Wed), 2017 KFC Hall

Doors open at 18:00. Performance starts at 19:00. (Kokusai Fashion Center, Ryogoku, Tokyo)

1-6-1, Yokoami, Sumida-ku Ryogoku Station (JR Line,Toei Oedo Line) Tel : 03-5610-5801

Admission：All seats reserved Adults ¥2,800 Students ¥1,200

special website http://www.youkiza.jp/sp/2017bunshichi

平成29年12月20日（水）開場18:00 開演19:00 （国際ファッションセンター両国）東京都墨田区横網1-6-1 最寄駅：JR線・都営大江戸線「両国駅」

KFCホール

チケット料金：全席指定席一般 2,800円学生1,200円

主催：アーツカウンシル東京（公益財団法人東京都歴史文化財団）助成・協力: 東京都後援：一般社団法人墨田区観光協会制作：公益財団法人江戸糸あやつり人形結城座 To Kuramae

Kuramaebashi Street Yokoamicho Park Metropolitan Expressway Route 6 Mukojima Line

KFC Bldg.

The Old Yasuda Garden

Toei Oedo Line

Exit A1

NTT docomo Bldg.

Sumida River

To Akihabara

Ryogoku Kokugikan

JR Chuo・Sobu Line

Ryogoku Junior High School

West Exit

Toei Ryogoku Station

Edo Tokyo Museum

JR Ryogoku Station

To Kinshicho

East Exit Kiyosumi Street

Keiyo Street To Kiyosumishirakawa

Inquiries：

Inquiries in English should be made via email only. MAIL : info@youkiza.jp

お問合せ：公益財団法人江戸糸あやつり人形結城座 042-322-9750（平日10:00−18:00） MAIL : info@youkiza.jp

Hello Tokyo…

Inside

Strapped for cash after a wild summer? We’ve all been there, but a temporary dip in your bank balance is no excuse not to enjoy your time in Tokyo to the fullest. Embracing our inner penny-pinchers, we’ve gone out and scoured the capital for cheap but amazing things to do, eat, drink, buy and see, and now proudly present our guide to frugal Tokyo, a city enjoyable for only a few thousand yen per day. Flip over to page 18 for budget lunches, affordable family fun, free art and tips for getting tipsy with pocket change. And if you need a pick-me-up after all that prudence, continue to page 30 for our feature on the best coffee in Tokyo.

October-December 2017

PAGE 18

Caffeine fever Our 20 favourite cafés in the capital

PAGE 30

Souvenir hunting The story behind the souvenir jacket

PAGE 48

On the right tracks

Our friends electric

PAGE 66

PAGE 54

The world of Japan’s incredible sightseeing trains

Five electronic music artists to watch

â FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo update 10 To do 15 Courtesy calls 18 Amazing Tokyo for ¥1,000 30 The best coffee in Tokyo 42 Eating & Drinking 46 Shopping & Style 51 Art & Culture 54 Music 56 Nightlife 61 Film 62 Sport 64 LGBT 66 Travel & Hotels 70 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when… Cover Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Naohiro Tsukada

Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp

Consulting Editor Marcus Webb Editors Yukako Izumi izumi@timeout.jp Ili Saarinen ilisaarinen@timeout.jp Mayumi Koyama

koyama@timeout.jp Kaila Imada kailaimada@timeout.jp Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Mayumi Hashimoto Staff Writers

Hiroyuki Sumi Kunihiro Miki Mari Hiratsuka Shiori Kotaki Kirsty Bouwers Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Kisa Toyoshima

Administration Momo Ando Creative Solutions Mao Kawakami Takahiro Takeuchi Naoki Shimao Julia Carvell

Distribution Satoshi Akiba Executive Vice President Akiko Toya President/ Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani

Time Out Digital 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, London,WC2H 8AD www.timeout.com +44 (0)207 813 3000

International Managing Director David Woodley CEO Noel Penzer Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno Founder Tony Elliott

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Update

WHAT YOU SAID

City FAQ RUSH HOUR

Will the de-sardineification of Tokyo trains ever become a reality? It’s a rite of passage for newcomers and pretty much everyone’s daily nightmare after that first ride. Rush hour commuting on Tokyo’s overcrowded trains and subways, that is. With trains regularly being at least 130 percent capacity between the peak hours of 8am and 9am, and gropers still being enough of a problem to warrant ‘women only’ carriages, the top of the morning can feel more like a descent into hell. To combat all this, this July the Tokyo metropolitan government trialled two new projects – Jisa-biz and Telework Day. Jisa-biz saw extra trains added on several lines during a two-week trial period to relieve the 8am sardine tin-esque chaos, while Telework Day on July 24 (24/7, yes...) encouraged people to try working remotely. Apparently 927 companies participated in this campaign alone, but how eﬀective it really was remains to be seen. So far, none of these or previous schemes really seem to have alleviated the woes of commuting in Tokyo. A radical solution – and perhaps the only one that could really work – would be to abolish the current system under which employers pay for their employees’ commuter passes, ideally helping reduce commuting times, but that’s unlikely to come to fruition anytime soon.

TOKYO LOVES... THE BABY PANDA

INSTA-FABULOUS DESSERTS

OK, people snapping food pics may have been a thing for a while, but Tokyo’s latest dessert additions, including Dumbo and Gram Factory, will definitely send your Instagram likes skyward with their elaborate sweet options.

PEPPER, THE FUNERAL MONK

Good old android Pepper has found a new calling: reciting sutras at funeral ceremonies. Revealed at the annual International Funeral & Cemetery Show held at Tokyo Big Sight this August, Pepper the monk will be available for hire across the country.

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

RUSH HOUR: DICK THOMAS JOHNSON VIA FLICKR. INSTAGRAM DESSERTS: KAILA IMADA

Five years after a newborn panda passed away just a week after birth, Ueno Zoo has finally been graced with another little panda-chan, this one born in mid-June. The cub’s name will be picked from a whopping 322,581 entries in late September.

Here’s what you tweeted in response…

‘As Japan’s population continues to decline, this won’t be an issue in 20 years or so’ ‘More flexibility: companies should let us work from home!’ ‘Let employees choose when they show up to work?’ ‘State sponsorship or creation of jobs outside of Tokyo should do the trick’ ‘I have no problem getting a seat on the Yamanote at 6.45am…’

GOLD LEAF

WHERE IN TOKYO IS THIS?

Where to admire the changing leaves this autumn

This mini-Mt Fuji built with stones from the actual mountain is part of a shrine near the Sumida River and is best visited as part of an e-bike cycling tour.

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

MEJIRO TEIEN

à To find the answer, visit tinyurl.com/totwhereintokyo16

This small but gorgeous Japanese garden will be lit up for those dark autumn evenings. The colours reflect off the park’s pond and waterfall, creating an illusion of greater space and making for a pretty spectacular sight. à tinyurl.com/totmejiroteien

OODLES OF ODEN Ever wondered what’s in the tins full of liquid next to the till at convenience stores? The answer: oden. This autumn and winter delicacy covers everything from boiled eggs to sticks of ‘chikuwa’ fish paste simmered in broth, and is also known as the food that we lust for as soon as the temperatures start dropping. Here are some of the essential picks.

SHOWA KINEN KOEN

The ginkgo and maple leaves turn beautiful shades of yellow and red at Showa Kinen Park, with the 300-metre stretch of ginkgo trees lining the street towards Tachikawa going first (usually from the very end of October). The momiji and kaede maple trees in the Japanese garden take on a fiery appearance right after that. à tinyurl.com/totshowakinen

DAIKON

Japanese radish

KONNYAKU

TAMAGO

Konjac

(Hard-boiled) egg

SANKEIEN

CHIKUWABU

Steamed, chewy dough tube

HANPEN

GANMO

Surimi fish paste

Vegetable and tofu fritter

Yokohama’s spacious Sankeien is home to several priceless structures, including a historical teahouse, a feudal lord’s residence and a three-storey pagoda from Kyoto. These treasures will be opened to the public from mid-November to early December, coinciding with the arrival of the golden red autumn foliage – you’re bound to run into kimono-clad couples taking seasonal wedding photos here. à tinyurl.com/totsankeien October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TOKYO UPDATE

TOTALLY MADE-UP

LOCAL LEGENDS

Where to head for a makeup update – whether for Halloween or a funky party

SCARLETT’S MAKE-UP CLASSES

TOMO HYAKUTAKE IS a master of the pretty terrifying. For years this makeup and mask artist’s beautiful creations have been scaring the bejesus out of fans of Japan’s venerable ‘kaiju’ (monster) movie genre. With masks from films including Michel Gondry’s short ‘Tokyo!: Interior Design’, manga adaptation ‘20th Century Boys’ and 2016 horror pastiche ‘Sadako vs. Kayako’ staring ominously from the walls of his Asagaya atelier, Hyakutake tells us how he was drawn to the business after being brought up on a diet of Godzilla and Ultraman. Having grown up in an age when the now mighty Japanese figurine industry was in its infancy, young Tomo decided to make his own minikaiju – and some of the remarkably detailed models he came up with in his teens are still on display as we talk. ‘I’ve learned most of what I know by doing,’ says the man who trained under the legendary Joji Tani, aka Screaming Mad George, who worked on Hollywood blockbusters including ‘Ghostbusters’ and ‘Predator’. Hyakutake’s Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

big break came with 2004 superhero flick ‘Casshern’, for which his team created all the characters and makeup. ‘Every special eﬀects artist specialises in some genre – it just happened to be fantasy and comic book characters for me,’ he says. The coming months will see a number of Tomo Hyakutake’s creations on the screen. First up is ‘Wilderness: Part One’ (in cinemas October 7), a boxing drama based on avantgarde icon Shuji Terayama’s 1966 novel ‘Aa, Koya’ and set in a vaguely dystopian Tokyo, and Nobuhiro Yamashita’s ‘Hardcore’, which is set for a 2018 release. But Hyakutake’s work is not limited to the silver screen. ‘You can’t be picky,’ he confesses. ‘Besides movies, I also work on music videos, commercials, even haunted houses. It’s all great fun.’

à tinyurl.com/totscarlettmakeup

VARIETY STORES

Don Quijote, Loft, Tokyu Hands… Tokyo certainly has its share of stores that sell absolutely everything you never thought you needed. Luckily, that also extends to their funky cosmetics departments – if you’re stuck for ideas around Halloween or another fancy dress-time, just hit up one of these stores for inspiration and a buyinginduced stupor. Of course, costumes are also available here come Halloween, but sizing may be an issue.

TOMO HYAKUTAKE: KISA TOYOSHIMA. SCARLETT: MIKAN HAGIWARA. WINE AND CHEESE: KAILA IMADA. YAYOI KUSAMA MUSEUM: MASAHIRO TSUCHIDO © YAYOI KUSAMA

#16: Tomo Hyakutake, the monster artist

Ever wanted to learn how to apply stage makeup like a drag queen? Look no further than Scarlett, who is here to help you look fabulous. Classes are usually held from Friday to Tuesday, with slots available both during the day (noon-3pm) and in the evenings (either 5pm-8pm or 8pm-11pm). Scarlett specialises in the double line (a makeup technique often used by drag performers) and you’ll definitely pick up some ideas for a party here, or just a funky way to change up your morning routine.

TAIWANESE TREATS

CITY DISPATCHES SAY CHEESE Cheaper imports? Hell yeah! The recent announcement that the EU and Japan were finalising a trade agreement that would impact import tariffs on a wide range of products was met with abundant joy by Tokyo’s fromage- and vino-starved population. It was a hard-fought battle, with the abolishment of tariffs on soft cheese – a product that Japanese farmers make as well, unlike harder cheeses – being the main sticking point. Luckily for us, the EU, with a bit of nagging (the Japanese minister in charge is said to have walked out of negotiations at one point), managed to convince the Japanese to compromise. There’s a catch, however: under the deal, cheese tariffs are supposed to be abolished over a period of 15 years – meaning it might take until 2032 for your camembert to be a full 29.8 percent (the current tariff) cheaper. But there’s still some good news: wine tariffs are set to be eliminated as soon as the treaty comes into force, which may be as early as 2019, while those in Europe will see their sake become tariff-free immediately as well. Cheers to that.

THE ALLEY XIEJIAOXIANG

With their Shinjuku shop having seen daily queues throughout summer,Taiwanese bubble tea purveyors The Alley decided that it was time to expand with not just one but two new stores opening in August, one in Omotesando and one in Shibuya. The former is their new Tokyo flagship and features all of the chain’s familiar favourites, including the smoothie-like ‘kiwi falling in love with a fragrance’, ‘Bonsai milk tea’ and a ‘triple-taste’ milk tea made with coconut milk and tapioca. à tinyurl.com/totthealleyomotesando

à tinyurl.com/toteujapantreaty

HOT SPOT It came as a complete surprise to pretty much everyone: Yayoi Kusama now has her very own dedicated museum in Tokyo. They certainly kept it under tight wraps: the museum building, located near Waseda, was actually completed back in 2014 – without anyone knowing what its ultimate function would be. Opened on October 1, it’s set to host two exhibitions annually, focusing on Kusama’s entire repertoire, including her ‘Infinity Net’ paintings, phallic sculptures and, yes, those legendary red polka dots. Note that entry is strictly restricted by time slot and buying tickets at least a month in advance is highly recommended.

MEETFRESH KICHIJOJI

Taiwan fever came to Kichijoji just in time for the summer heat: after landing in Akabane this spring, the frozen sweets purveyors set up their third Japan outpost just north of Kichijoji Station in August. In addition to signature favourites such as Imoen, shaved ice topped with a mix of sweet potato dumplings, taro, azuki and tapioca covered in black sugar syrup, they sell a range of Kichijoji-only frozen drinks. Rest assured, you’ll still want to have these treats well into autumn.

à tinyurl.com/totkusamamuseum

à tinyurl.com/totmeetfresh

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

DO TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

What’s on in town October-December 2017

DON’T MISS

Art Yokohama Triennale 2017

A highlight among Japan’s art festivals, the Yokohama Triennale is back for its sixth edition and centres once again on the Yokohama Museum of Art and its immediate surrounds. Big-name international participants include Ai Weiwei, Maurizio Cattelan and Olafur Eliasson, while other artists are paying tribute to the Triennale’s location with artworks themed on figures and events from the history of Yokohama. àUntil Nov 5. 3-4-1 Minatomirai, Nishi, Yokohama. tinyurl. com/TOTyokotri. ¥1,800, college students ¥1,200, high school students ¥800.

OCTOBER ART ROPPONGI ART NIGHT

The programme for Roppongi’s all-night celebration of art is again looking like an autumn highlight. Packed with exhibitions, installations and performances including contributions from photographer and filmmaker Mika Ninagawa (see interview on page 13) and Thai superstar Navin Rawanchaikul, it’s worth fighting sleep for. As always, the area’s art museums and galleries will stay open until late at night too. àSep 30-Oct 1. Various venues in Roppongi. tinyurl. com/TOTartnight2017. Free (some programmes have entrance fees).

ART THE TOKYO ART BOOK FAIR 2017

Billing itself as the biggest art book fair in Asia, with over 300 Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

publishers, gallery presses and independent creatives regularly taking part, TABF is now in its ninth year. Head down for exhibitions, talks, screenings and, of course, more books than at your average library.

MUSIC SOUL CAMP 2017

Fans of soul, R&B and hip hop will converge on Toyosu again this autumn, as the Soul Camp festival returns for its third edition. Daisy Age hip hop veterans De La Soul join Faith Evans and neo-soul empress Erykah Badu at the top of the lineup.

àOct 5-8. Warehouse Terrada, 2-6-10 HigashiShinagawa, Shinagawa. tinyurl.com/TOTtabf2017. Free entry (¥1,000 on Oct 5).

àOct 7-8. Toyosu Pit, 6-1-23 Toyosu, Koto. tinyurl. com/TOTsoulcamp. ¥13,000, two-day ticket ¥23,000.

FILM WERNER HERZOG PROGRAMME

Such is the impressive output of German director Werner Herzog that K’s Cinema in Shinjuku would probably need to run this programme for a few months to get through his whole filmography. Instead this ten-flick season covers Herzog’s greatest hits pretty eﬃciently, classics ‘Aguirre: The Wrath of God’ and ‘Fitzcarraldo’ included.

Centring on the renowned bakeries around Setagaya Ward with guest appearances from travelling Japanese bakers, this superpopular festival lets you sample all sorts of pastry delicacies. There will also be bread-related workshops and talks at the ‘Bread University’.

Close out the warm season with a weekend dancing by the beach down in Shizuoka, where a bunch of techno and house DJs, including Idjut Boys’ Conrad McDonnell, Montreal’s Multi Culti label boss Dreems and influential German techno label Kompakt’s star spinner Scharre, get together to play dance tunes on three successive evenings. Revellers can indulge in barbecued grub, try some yoga or even go fishing in between sets.

àOct 8-9. IID Setagaya Monozukuri Gakko, 2-4-5 Ikejiri, Setagaya (and other venues). tinyurl.com/ TOTsetagayabread. Free entry.

àOct 13-15. Sea Side House Imaihama, 2 Midaka, Kawazu, Kamo, Shizuoka. tinyurl.com/TOTchilluxe. ¥6,000 adv, ¥7,500 on the door.

THINGS TO DO SETAGAYA BREAD FESTIVAL

àOct 7-27. 3F, 3-35-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl. com/TOTherzog. ¥1,500, students ¥1,300.

MUSIC CHILLUXE BEACH 2017

TO DO Chytilová and Jan Němec, the Czechoslovak New Wave was an artistically ambitious and highly political cinematic movement that emerged in the ’60s as a response to the regime of oppression in Soviet-occupied Czechoslovakia. Shibuya’s Image Forum now highlights nine landmark films from that time, including the satirical ‘A Report on the Party and the Guests’ by Jan Němec and Věra Chytilová’s ‘Daisies’.

The New Stew, apparently numerically illiterate Irish folk quartet We Banjo 3 and Cuban jazz pianist Omar Sosa. àOct 21-22. Yebisu Garden Place The Garden Hall, 1-13-2 Mita, Meguro. tinyurl.com/TOTlivemagic. ¥12,000, two-day ticket ¥21,000. College and high school students ¥7,000/¥11,000.

THINGS TO DO MOMIJI-ICHI

An annual autumn aﬀair on the banks of the Tama River just south of Chofu, the Momiji-Ichi is an opportunity for local creatives to peddle their wares under the open sky. Over 100 participants will be manning booths oﬀering pottery, textiles, handicrafts, artworks and regional delicacies. The programme also includes workshops, gigs and other fun for visitors of all ages. àOct 14-15. Chofu (south of Keio-Tamagawa Station). tinyurl.com/TOTmomiji. Free entry.

ART DESIGNART 2017

A new festival dedicated to all things design and art, the literally named Designart takes over central Tokyo from Aoyama to Shibuya, Nakameguro and Roppongi for one October week. The brainchild of designer Akio Aoki, art director Shun Kawakami and architects Astrid Klein and Mark Dytham, it’ll see shops, cafés and restaurants host pop-up exhibitions and much more.

FILM 30TH TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

Tokyo’s top cinematic extravaganza is returning for its thirtieth edition and will again shine the spotlight on an eclectic selection of movies. This year’s TIFF zooms in on director Keiichi Hara’s oeuvre in the Animation Focus category, while the Japan Now section will be dedicated to four ‘muses of Japanese cinema’: actresses Sakura Ando, Yu Aoi, Hikari Mitsushima and Aoi Miyazaki.

THINGS TO DO DREAM YOSACOY MATSURI

Billed as Tokyo’s largest matsuri – in terms of sprawl rather than size, at least – this monster festival sees teams perform variations on the popular Kochi dance style at locations around Odaiba, with additional oﬀshoots in Akihabara and Marunouchi. There’ll be nearly 80 teams and a total of 6,000 people taking part.

àOct 25-Nov 3. Roppongi Hills, 6-10 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTtiff2017. Prices vary.

THINGS TO DO TOKYO RAMEN SHOW

The greatest ramen makers from all over Japan gather in Komazawa Olympic Park for every noodlelover’s dream event. Slurp up regional specialities, try new soups and combinations created specifically for this occasion, and elbow your way around the area with thousands of other ramen maniacs.

àNov 3-5. Around Daiba Station, 1-8-1 Daiba, Minato (and other venues). tinyurl.com/TOTyosakoi. Free.

MUSIC KAKUBARHYTHM 15TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL

Celebrating 15 years in the indie game, record label Kakubarhythm heads out to Studio Coast for an entire Sunday of groovy domestic pop, rock and funk. Sharing the stage will be all of Kakubarhythm’s top names, including Your Song is Good, Cero, Kicell, Zainichi Funk and Videotapemusic.

àOct 26-Nov 5. 1-1 Komazawa-Koen, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/TOTramenshow. Free entry.

àOct 16-22. Various venues. tinyurl.com/ TOTdesignart.

NOVEMBER

FILM BLADE RUNNER FAN FESTIVAL

THINGS TO DO MT TAKAO MAPLE FESTIVAL

Ridley Scott’s sci-fi classic is finally getting a sequel this autumn, and ‘Blade Runner’ fans in Tokyo are just as excited as enthusiasts elsewhere in the world. Some of the most committed aficionados will be gathering in the industrial wilds of Kawasaki for this celebration, which sees a special programme broadcast on a massive screen while DJs Ken Ishii and Taku Takahashi provide the tunes.

àNov 11-Dec 1. 2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuya. tinyurl. com/TOTczechnewwave. ¥1,500, college students ¥1,200, high school students ¥1,100.

Marunouchi Naka-dori, always one of the most popular Tokyo illumination spots, will be lit up with countless champagnecoloured, low-energy bulbs this year too, for a display that’s as environmentally friendly as it is stylish. Just strolling down the glittering street makes for a nice post-dinner date option. àNov 9-Feb 18. Marunouchi, Chiyoda. tinyurl.com/ TOTmaruillu. Free.

MUSIC POND

Thought Tame Impala were far out? Allow us to introduce Pond, a band led by former Impala musician Nick Allbrook and featuring other members of Australia’s psychedelic rock underground. These heavy friends from Down Under electrified the crowd at this year’s Summer Sonic and now head back to Tokyo on the back of new album ‘The Weather’. àNov 15. Space Odd, B1F-B2F, 2-11 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTpond. ¥6,500.

àNov 5. 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/ TOTkakuba15. ¥4,800.

Mount Takao is buzzing in November, with ‘kokeshi’ doll demonstrations and sales of ‘masuzake’, the curious boxed beverage, making weekends and holidays go with a bang. The main attraction is of course the autumn foliage, with the maple trees around the area turning fiery red and yellow.

THINGS TO DO KEBAB GRAND PRIX

àNov 1-30. tinyurl.com/TOTtakaomaple. Free entry.

‘Japan’s best kebab’ might not be the most prestigious title out there for an ambitious Turkish chef to aim for, but you can still find at least half-decent döner at this celebration of all things Anatolian. In addition to the kebabs, the programme includes a belly dancing contest and stalls oﬀering Turkish beer and exotic knickknacks.

àOct 21. Kawasaki Industrial Zone (exact venue TBD). tinyurl.com/TOTbladefan. From ¥6,750.

MUSIC PETER BARAKAN’S LIVE MAGIC!

Radio DJ Peter Barakan’s own festival has become an essential experience for anyone interested in the roots end of the music spectrum. This year, tunes will be served up by the likes of funky organ-driven trio Soulive, genrecrossing American supergroup

THINGS TO DO MARUNOUCHI ILLUMINATION

FILM CZECHOSLOVAK NEW WAVE

àNov 8-12. Okubo Park (Theatre Park), 2-43 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTkebabgp. Free entry.

Spearheaded by directors including Jiří Menzel, Věra

MUSIC MØ

You can hear traces of Lorde, Sky Ferreira, Charli XCX and Lykke Li in Mø, the alias of Danish singer Karen Marie Ørsted. Her string of shimmering synths, erratic beats and intense vocals was revealed to the world on 2014 debut album ‘No Mythologies to Follow’. Since then Mø has worked with Major Lazer and Justin Bieber, released smash hits including ‘Nights with You’ and performed at some of the world’s biggest festivals. àNov 23. Studio Coast, 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Koto. tinyurl.com/TOTmoe. ¥7,000. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TO DO nearby Oji Inari Shrine for the first prayer of the year. Having also served as the theme for one of ukiyo-e master Ando Hiroshige’s pieces, the Fox Parade always gathers an enthusiastic turnout of both participants and onlookers. àDec 31. Shozoku Inari Shrine, 2-30-14 Oji, Kita. tinyurl.com/TOTojifox. Free.

MUSIC ALT-J

This symbol-named, Grammynominated trio from Leeds play reverb-smothered, off-kilter indie that echoes Yeasayer and Jeff Buckley. Fresh off the release of third album ‘Relaxer’, Alt-J (∆, try it on your Mac) should be worth a look especially for friends of focused, slow-burning melodies. àNov 24. Akasaka Blitz, Akasaka Sacas, 5-3-2 Akasaka, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTaltjay. Standing ¥7,000, seating ¥7,500.

DECEMBER THINGS TO DO SETAGAYA BOROICHI

Around 700 stalls line the street during the annual Setagaya Boroichi, a venerable flea market

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

that’s been going strong for more than 430 years now. Held twice a year, the event attracts tens of thousands of visitors, making it one of the highlights of Setagaya’s calendar. If you don’t mind the long lines, it’s worth sampling one of the market’s popular daikan mochi rice cakes – the Boroichi’s de facto oﬃcial food.

the world during this weekend festival, which travels far beyond Latin American customs into the territory of Indonesian Christmas dances (who knew?) and sales of certifiably non-traditional eats and decorations. A belly-dancing Santa Claus is also set make an appearance. àDec 23-24. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTlatinxmas. Free entry.

àDec 15-16. Boroichi-dori, around 1 Setagaya, Setagaya. tinyurl.com/TOTboroichi2017. Free entry.

THINGS TO DO OJI FOX PARADE

THINGS TO DO WORLD LATIN CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL

This annual event sees local residents dress up as foxes and parade from Shozoku Shrine to

Yoyogi Park oﬀers a taste of Christmas traditions from around

INTERVIEW

Here comes the night Photographer and director Mika Ninagawa shares the secrets of Roppongi Art Night with Kosuke Shimizu AN ANNUAL AFTER-DARK

PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

celebration of all things artsy, Roppongi Art Night takes place from September 30 to October 1 this year. One of the biggest names to take part will be decorated photographer and film director Mika Ninagawa,

‘On the edges of the light, there’s always desire, confusion and noise. That’s what makes the world interesting’

whose vivid, expressive and often very kawaii imagery has won her a loyal following. Set to unveil a new installation that she promises will be ‘fun to photograph’, the artist is taking on a new challenge at the festival. Ninagawa’s piece is one of the most anticipated artworks at the allnight event, and the woman in the spotlight lets her excitement show: ‘I’m glad they chose me,’ she says. ‘Being a photographer, it’s my first attempt at a large-scale installation. While making it, it suddenly came to me that “Hey, there are hardly any photos here,”’ she laughs. Ninagawa promises that visitors can look forward to a ‘vibrantly colourful world’ which matches her MO. Although the Tokyo native has worked with faint colours for a touching series of her late father, she is usually associated with the bright, cheery and vivid pieces that

have become her trademark. The installation lets viewers step inside a Ninagawa photograph, letting them see what the artist sees at her sets. It will combine a first-hand experience of the photographer’s worldview with the experience of taking a Ninagawa-style photo and sharing it on social media. This reflects Ninagawa’s ongoing interest in ‘the vanishing of the boundary between presenting art and viewing it’ in the Instagram age. At Roppongi Art Night, Ninagawa’s installations will be set up in three locations: Roppongi Hills Arena, Tokyo Midtown and the National Art Center. The Arena will also serve as host for the festival’s opening show, which will include a colourful performance. ‘We’re in the midst of preparing for it right now, but I think it’s going to be very interesting,’ says

Ninagawa, who lights up when talking about the show. Don’t miss this gathering of unlikely characters, who’ll surely be worthy of Roppongi Art Night’s ‘Festival of the Future’ theme. But said theme isn’t all about having fun, according to Ninagawa. ‘There’s darkness too,’ she says. ‘On the edges of the light, there’s always desire, confusion and noise. That’s what makes the world interesting.’ And what hopes does Ninagawa have for her audience at the event? ‘I expect them to get right into it, get right to taking pictures.’ A crowd frantically clicking shutters inside a massive Ninagawa piece sure sounds like a compelling image.

à See page 10 for full Roppongi Art Night details October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TRANSCREATING TOKYO

Blue skies and cool air

TOKYO’S AUTUMN months are characterised by blue skies and a cool climate. The air clears up, clouds float by high in the sky and a pleasant breeze brings faraway sounds to urbanites’ ears. As the Heian-era poet Fujiwara no Toshiyuki put it, ‘Nothing meets the eye to demonstrate beyond doubt that autumn has come – yet suddenly we are struck just by the sound of the wind.’ In other words, this is a season that looks just like summer, albeit with a faint feeling of colder days to come. The start of September sees beaches empty and discussion turn to the wonders of autumn with the turn of a calendar page – despite the fact that the summer heat can linger deep into the month. Unlike summer, which comes suddenly as soon as rainy season passes, autumn moves ever so slowly. But curse the lingering heat long enough and one morning you’ll notice how the sky Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

even clearer and higher than usual in autumn. On the other hand, I really can’t recommend lit-up parks during autumn leaves season. These are pretty, sure, but also extremely crowded, better for watching people than the foliage. Autumn is also the most culturally rich season in Tokyo, with museums and theatres rolling out plentiful programmes, and the tastiest season, thanks to seasonal, newly harvested delicacies including seafood, vegetables and mushrooms. When stepping outside on your way to dinner, you’ll notice how the temperature is perfect for an evening stroll.

looks different and the bustle is gone: autumn has finally arrived.

MAGNIFICENT FOLIAGE

When asked when the best time to visit Tokyo is, I always say ‘October’. In part it’s due to the autumn leaves. To see yellow ginkgo trees, Tokyoites head to Icho Namiki-dori in front of Jingu Gaien park, while Rikugien is a popular spot for viewing fiery foliage. As for my favourite autumn leaves spots in the capital, I’d have to mention the trees lining the Imperial Palace moat from Sakuradamon towards Hibiya. Even a moment’s look at them when driving past reminds me of their superb contrast with the blue sky, which extends so beautifully above the palace grounds – the giant city’s quiet, lush centre. When looking out over it from Hibiya, you’ll notice the top of the National Diet building sticking out into the great azure, which appears

STORMY SKIES

In my youth, there was one more thing I was looking forward to every autumn: typhoons. Yes, I’m well aware of how destructive these storms can be and how they’re nothing to make fun of. But as a child, I did like them. Before

one was to arrive, my parents would be busy closing the storm shutters in our home, checking that no tiles were coming off the roof and so on, while I would get excited looking at the black circles on the weather maps which indicated the typhoon’s route towards Tokyo. School would close on the day of the typhoon, the wind would get stronger, I’d hope to catch a few of the walnuts that had fallen into the neighbour’s garden…Luckily enough, Tokyo’s location means that it rarely sees serious typhoon damage. Perhaps that’s why I can be so careless about them. What I do need to emphasise is that a typhoon can bring about chaos in Tokyo’s public transportation system, so it’s best to spend stormy days quietly inside. Forget worrying about losing an entire day to the elements: you’ll have ‘taifu ikka’ – supremely clear post-typhoon weather – to look forward to the morning after.

TAKASHI IMAGES / PIXTA

Takeo Funabiki explains why autumn is the best season in Tokyo

Courtesy calls

SHINTO AND BUDDHISM have generally coexisted happily in Japan for centuries but to the uninitiated it can be diﬃcult to tell your shrines from your temples. Architecture helps. See a torii (two vertical pillars and a crossbeam)? It’s a Shinto shrine (‘jinja’). See a robust gate with doors? Think Buddhist temple (‘tera’). Shrines tend to be open-air, while temples have buildings you can enter (after taking oﬀ your shoes, of course). Here’s what else you need to know to avoid a spiritual faux pas. TEMPLES & SHRINES

ILLUSTRATION BY BUNNY BISSOUX

DO: THANK THE DEITIES

Visiting a religious site in Japan is similar to entering someone’s house: don’t forget to thank your host first. At a shrine, this means bowing to the kami (deities), while buddhas are in charge at temples. A bow-pray-bow routine is customary at both: at a shrine,

Before you inadvertently start insulting the gods when visiting a Japanese place of worship, see our quick guide to spiritual etiquette. Kirsty Bouwers

you throw in a small coin oﬀering, bow twice, clap twice, pray and bow once again; at a temple, you start by oﬀering incense before bowing and praying. Don’t clap at a temple – that’s shrine-speak to signal the kami.

the flame out, place it into a communal incense burner and fan a bit of smoke towards yourself – it’s supposed to bring you all sorts of good luck. And how do you light your osenko? Well, whatever you do, not with another stick of incense – you’re not bumming a cigarette here. It’s believed you’ll take on the bad fortune of that person if you do...

DO: CHOOSE YOUR PLACE

There’s a diﬀerent Tokyo temple or shrine for almost anything you might need, from finding love and passing your exams to avoiding a car or plane crash. Many of these also sell nifty ‘omamori’ amulets thought to give you an even better chance of realising whatever goal you’re aiming for – whether it be a debt-free life, a promotion or just protection from computer viruses and cyberattacks.

SHRINES

DON’T: DRINK THE WATER

It’s an easy mistake to make, but the communal water basin found next to shrine entrances is not there to quench your thirst: rather, it’s where you cleanse yourself before heading inside. The stress is on communal here – you really shouldn’t be drinking this stuﬀ. What you should do is wash your left and then right hand with water from the ladle, then pour a little water into your left hand,

TEMPLES

DON’T: PASS THE FLAME

Before praying at a temple, light some incense (‘osenko’), wave

sip it (we normally fake this bit if we’re honest) and then spit it out. Then rinse your hand once more and wash the ladle by holding it vertically before returning it.

DO: USE YOUR SMALL CHANGE

Yes, you essentially pay to pray, but you’re hardly splashing the cash: common practice is to throw small coins into the oﬀering box (‘saisenbako’), with ¥5 being popular due to its homonymity with ‘good fortune’. In a pinch, a humble ¥1 coin will do.

DON’T: WALK IN THE MIDDLE

Ooh and aah all you want and pose for a picture near the torii if you insist, but the middle part of the road leading up to a shrine is said to be the path of the gods. Remember that the deities have the right of way: walk at the side of the road to avoid hogging the astral lane or upsetting your fellow pilgrims. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

LOCAL INSIGHT

Promotional feature

I, TOKYO Jörgen Axelvall Photographer and artist Age: 45

You moved to Japan in 2011 after 15 years in New York City. What made you choose Tokyo as your new home, especially in the wake of the natural disasters that rocked the country that year? I moved here for love. My flight actually landed, or rather attempted to land, on the exact minute of the Great East Japan earthquake on March 11, 2011. After a touch-and-go at Narita airport we eventually got redirected to Yokosuka military base where we were stuck onboard for another ten hours or so before finally disembarking at Haneda. Quite a tumultuous start to life in Japan, but nothing really compared to what others went through. When did you first feel like a Tokyoite? Spiritually I felt part of the city quite quickly, possibly because I was here for the aftermath of the earthquake, a time when a lot of foreign residents left and very few tourists would visit. Artistically I considered myself a Tokyoite when I started exhibiting my work at galleries around Tokyo and getting my books published in Japan. I also felt a legal entitlement to call myself a Tokyoite the day I got my residence card and started paying my dues and taxes in Japan. You work mainly as a photographer. What do you think of Tokyo as a subject? Tokyo is not a classically pretty city – I find a lot of the post-war architecture hideous. However, Tokyo has some fantastic gems. I spent some seven years shooting the Park Hyatt Tokyo building and those photographs were eventually awarded an exhibition at the National Art Center and published as a book. I still find new and interesting things here every day. Tokyo is always changing, for better or worse – either way it’s inspiring.

It’s been seven years since you moved to Tokyo. What has changed for you, and do these changes also affect your work? Tokyo has made me a nicer person. I love NYC and its energy but there’s also a lot of rage and selfishness. Tokyo is slow compared to NYC, but much kinder. It’s a good place to focus and get things done. My artistic style was pretty well developed when I moved here and the core hasn’t changed much, but of course I am influenced by the local culture – sometimes unconsciously. Little elements of Japanese aesthetics have made their way into my work. What aesthetic aspect of Japan is your favourite? I like the concept of wabi-sabi, the acceptance and admiration of imperfection. It’s something I always strived for in my photographs, before I even knew what wabi-sabi means. Where would you take visitors to Tokyo? One of the things that really appeals to me about Tokyo is that you don’t have to do anything else than just walk around, hang out and look at the city and its people. So far it’s the best city I’ve ever lived in for cycling and whenever I have visitors I like to show them around by bike. NHK World offers a wide range of multilingual news and other programmes. Do you have a favourite programme? Watching news online is convenient for me. I like NHK’s coverage of Japan of course, but also of surrounding Asian countries, which are often neglected by the major Western news outlets. Finally, any survival tips for international visitors? Stay happy and positive. Things are different here, very different. But that’s just it – different doesn’t mean wrong. Most visitors will get frustrated at some point. I too used to have meltdowns and at times still get frustrated, but made a conscious choice to at least try to laugh about the situation.

àSee www.jorgenaxelvall.com for more information about Axelvall's work.

Visit nhk.jp/nhkworld to find out how you can get NHK WORLD

NHK’s mascot introduces Tokyo to the world

Domo! World

IF YOU HAVEN’T yet come across fluﬀy, brown and loveable Domo, you’re in for a treat. The character has been bringing joy to Japan for years and now Domo is going global. The new touring exhibition Domo! World will bring the life and times of the sharp-toothed cutie and his friends into focus by fusing Japanese craftsmanship and cutting-edge 8K resolution technology. Here’s everything you need to know about an entirely new dimension of visual entertainment.

WHAT’S 8K? 8K resolution = 2K (Full HD) resolution x 16 7680 x 4320p

2K (Full HD) 1920 x 1080p

8K resolution is the highest currently available standard of ultra-high definition television (UHDTV). 8K UHD boasts sixteen times as many pixels as the Full HD standard, making it incredibly clear. Imagine cutting out a corner a 16th of the size of the full 8K picture and enlarging it: you can still enjoy it with crystal clarity. In Domo World! this technology has

been used to create intricately detailed stop-motion animations that reveal even the tiniest secrets of Domo’s life: try looking for a four-leaf clover or keep an eye out for which characters are a couple. We can’t quite let you see the whole picture yet, but the big reveal is just around the corner!

WHERE CAN YOU SEE THE WHOLE PICTURE? Domo will embark on a world tour from October 2017. The first place where you can get to experience Domo World! in its entirety will be at New York’s Comic Con, after which Domo will visit London, Tokyo and a number of other Asian capitals throughout the year.

New York City

London

Tokyo

Singapore

Bangkok

October 5-8

October 27-29

November 3-4

November 24-26

December 7-10

For further information, see www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/domo/

DOWNLOAD!

You can catch up on the latest from NHK World via the mobile app, which was recently made even easier to use.

YOU CAN PEEK AT A PART OF THE WORLD HERE! App Store®

TV 24/7 in your country, on your TV, computer or mobile device.

Google Play™

©NHK-TYO

I, GLOBAL Domo Discover

AMAZING TOK FOR Â¥1,000 Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

OKYO

Great-value sushi, shopping bargains, secret museums, drink deals and family fun – if you’re looking to enjoy Tokyo to the fullest but without breaking the bank, read on for our ultimate guide to cheap but sensational things to do in the capital… Origami images: Keisuke Tanigawa 19

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

Edokko

CHEAP DRINKS

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

Tateishi, Katsushika, tinyurl.com/ TOTmaruchu) for a quick pint and a side of oden stew, including the speciality tomato oden. Tateishi is not the place for lingering at one izakaya for extended periods of time, so it’s time to head off and try some sushi plus a drink – the queues will point you in the right direction and you’re unlikely to pay more than ¥1,500 a head for a few pieces and a tipple. Another good pick is Tateishi’s motsuyaki (roasted giblets) kingdom, Uchida (1-18-8 Tateishi, Katsushika, tinyurl. com/TOTuchida). Go after lunch to beat the queues, and note that the menu, plastered on the wall, doesn’t even list daily offerings; you’re supposed to know those by osmosis. Ask your neighbour or staff for their top picks, and of course, have a beer or some sake on the side. Lastly, Edokko (7-1-9 Tateishi, Katsushika, tinyurl.com/ TOTedokko), on the other side of the tracks, is the perennial favourite, with people lining up a good 20 minutes before opening even on a dreary weekday. Having been in business for 45-odd years, this is a place that knows the customer isn’t always right. The staff are welcoming but know what is best for you – ask them how your yakiton should be seasoned (‘shio’, ‘tare’ or ‘karatare’), as they will harrumph if you make the ‘wrong’ choice on your own. Order some skewers (you’ll get four on a plate for ¥360), some macaroni salad,

Maruchu Kamabokoten

perhaps some pickled cucumber and, most importantly, their highball – simply pronounced ‘bowl’ here. To enjoy Tateishi to the fullest, three things help massively: speaking Japanese, liking innards and being flexible. Most places do not have anything in the way of English-language or picture menus, so if you lack language skills, having a Japanese-speaking friend with you will be of great help. Besides that, many izakaya here tend to admit customers until their stocks run out, which may be an hour or two before oﬃcial closing time and means you can’t be very picky food-wise if you show up later on. It might sound intimidating, but what worthwhile experience isn’t? –Kirsty Bouwers

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

TATEISHI, TORI ICHIZU, UDON MARUKA: KISA TOYOSHIMA. GYO-BAR, NANABAN, KABUKI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

‘SENBERO’ MAY WELL BE

our favourite word in the entire Japanese language. An amalgamation of ‘sen’ (1,000) and ‘bero’ (short for getting drunk), it means exactly that: getting merrily merry for a thousand yen, and that even includes a snack or two. Even central Tokyo has its share of senbero-worthy spots, but nowhere has as dense a concentration of inexpensive izakaya as Tateishi, an old-school, ramshackle neighbourhood out in Katsushika-ku. Sadly it could be facing last orders, as parts of the area are earmarked for demolition to make way for fancy new skyscrapers by 2022. Best start drinking while you still can – but pace yourself, as visibly intoxicated customers are refused entry at most places here. For a crash course in boozy Tateishi snacks, you won’t have to meander very far from KeiseiTateishi Station. First, head south and take a hard right next to the tracks; on the corner of the covered Nakamise market you’ll find Torizen (1-19-3 Tateishi, Katsushika, tinyurl.com/ TOTtorizen), a great place to grab a yakitori or two on the go – the torikawa (chicken skin) and buta kashira (pork cheek) skewers are very tasty choices. Stop by a convenience store along the way, grab a drink and wander around the market, skewers and beer in hand, to soak up the atmosphere. Once your hands are free again, head to Maruchu Kamabokoten (1-19-2

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

KANPAI! Drink deals to cheer

NOMIHODAI

Possibly illegal in other countries, all-youcan-drink deals or ‘nomihodai’ are perfectly normal in Japan. Most izakaya will oﬀer a standard rate for a 1.5-, two- or even threehour plan, which can include anything from beer and wine to cocktails and sake – if you’re planning to have more than a few drinks, it’s usually worth picking this option. Note that last orders are taken 30 minutes before your plan runs out.

JAPAN SAKE AND SHOCHU INFORMATION CENTRE

Hidden away in high-rise Toranomon is this little gem, where you can learn about nihonshu and shochu to your heart’s delight. This includes a tasting of course: the friendly concierge will guide you through three diﬀerent types of Japanese alcohol for a ludicrously cheap ¥500 or less. à tinyurl.com/totjssinfocentre

CHEAP EATS Five days of ¥500 lunches

the customary rice, miso soup and pickles alongside a token salad; stretch your budget ¥50-¥100 and you’ll be rewarded with other types of fried chicken or a larger platter featuring both the karaage and nanban. àWest Square Bldg 2F, 7-4-5 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 5348 6866. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm (last orders 2pm), closed for lunch Sat, Sun.

GYO-BAR

Following a salaryman is a pretty good way to find a cheap but decent place to eat, and doing so in salaryman central ups that chance considerably. Gyo-Bar is a local favourite in the Yaesu business district. The daily menu consists of four different ¥500 options ranging from tuna and avocado donburi to curry and rice, plus self-service miso soup. The entire place is standing-only and the most popular options sell out way before closing time. Head to their Kyobashi or Kayabacho outlets for even more lunch options. àYaesu Isaka Bldg 1F, 1-5-10 Yaesu, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 3278 7550. 11.30am-2pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

KABUKI

A typical salaryman haunt, this izakaya specialises in iwashi (Japanese sardine), and their lunch menu is unsurprisingly on the fish-heavy side. Choose from the daily options at the counter (the menu is in Japanese), pay ¥500 and receive a coloured token. Sit down and within no time your rather voluminous lunch – complete with rice, miso soup, two types of pickles and some nori or furikake, depending on the main dish – will have made its way to your table. There are two more locations around the corner for when this one is full. à 1F, 3-5-5 Uchikanda, Chiyoda (Kanda Station). 03 3252 0936. 11am-2pm, 4.30pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols.

NANABAN

Neither Roppongi nor neighbouring NishiAzabu are known for a wealth of cheap eats, but head into the backstreets and you’ll be rewarded. Nanaban is one such gem, an old-school hole-in-the-wall with absolutely everything on the chuka (a Japanese take on Chinese food) menu going for ¥500 – and most unusually, everything coming with a lot of veggies. Sit down, order (note the menu is in Japanese only), place your fat golden coin in front of you and guzzle away once served. Just get out as soon as you’re done – this is not the place to linger over your empty plate. à1-4-14 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 3408 6466. Mon-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

TORI ICHIZU

The barbecue place downstairs fervently tries to woo customers, but bargain hunters should head up the stairs towards chicken specialist Tori Ichizu instead. ¥500 gets you either a karaage or chicken nanban (both varieties of fried chicken) set meal here, with

UDON MARUKA

Maruka is hard to miss, and not only because of the handsome white noren curtain that marks the entrance; there’s practically always a queue in front of this Jinbocho joint, and for very good reason. Join the line and you’ll soon be handed a simple menu packed with orthodox Kagawa-style udon options, including kake udon (served in broth) and kama-tama (noodles mixed with a raw egg, no soup) – most of them priced under ¥500 for a standard-sized serving. –Kirsty Bouwers à3-16-1 Kanda-Ogawamachi, Chiyoda (Jinbocho Station). Mon-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat 11am-2.30pm, closed Sun & hols.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

FAMILY FUN FOR UNDER ¥2,000 UENO ZOO

Gorillas, elephants, giraffes, polar bears, tigers, oh my. Ueno Zoo has it all, including a bird house, a turtle- and reptile-filled vivarium, and an extensive assortment of small animals. However, the real stars are without a doubt Shin Shin and Ri Ri, the pair of giant pandas. Shin Shin just gave birth to a female baby back in June, and the cub will definitely draw an even bigger crowd once she’s ready to be displayed. Children and adults alike will marvel at the animals, and it’s worth noting that Ueno Zoo is well-equipped with amenities – you’re never far from a restaurant, snack stall, souvenir shop or bathroom. à¥600, students ¥200, children under 12 free. tinyurl.com/ TOTuenozoo

ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON

Don’t let the doorman and the huge glass gates of the Omotesando Louis Vuitton boutique intimidate you. In addition to the gorgeous collections of shoes, handbags and garments, the building hosts one of the city’s bestkept secrets: a small but stunning art space designed by Japanese architect Jun Aoki. The glass box is located on the top floor of the luxury boutique and offers an Instagramworthy view of Tokyo. The contemporary exhibitions change every few months, but some noteworthy past ones have featured the works of minimalist artist Dan Flavin and installations from Pierre Huyghe.

MOUNT TAKAO

Lace up your hiking boots and escape the city’s hustle and bustle by climbing Mount Takao, Tokyo’s most popular peak. You can get there by taking the Keio line all the way to Takaosanguchi Station, about 50 minutes from Shinjuku. Takao may not seem like a huge mountain at 599 metres tall, but once you find yourself puffing and panting near the top, you’ll appreciate its grandeur. Take a breather mid-hike at Yakuoin Temple for a look at the tengu (long-nosed goblin) statues. Once you reach the top, treat yourself to a picnic while admiring a panoramic view of Tokyo – and Mount Fuji on a clear day. Takao also has a monkey park and a wild plant garden. The hike takes about two hours and is suitable for the whole family. Avoid the lunchtime crowds and go in the morning instead.

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

EDO-TOKYO OPEN-AIR ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM

If you still haven’t visited the Edo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum, you’re missing out on one of the most interesting museums in Tokyo. Located a short train ride away in the western suburbs, it’s the ideal setting for a budget-friendly family day. The concept is unique as the outdoor museum is located right in magnificent Koganei Park and houses buildings characteristic to different historical periods – including a handful built by famous Japanese architects. Most of the structures are from the Meiji period (1868-1912) onwards and include a politician’s elegant former residence, a farm house, a photo studio, a public bathhouse, various shops and a police box. You can enter most of the buildings and make yourself at home – as long as you don’t mind slipping in and out of your shoes. –Vivian Morelli à¥400, high school and junior high students ¥200, children under 12 free. tinyurl.com/TOTedooutdoor

àFree. tinyurl.com/TOTespacelv

SUMO MUSEUM

IMAGE COURTESY OF EDO-TOKYO OPEN-AIR ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM

Couldn’t get your hands on some sumo tickets? While not as exciting as a live match, this free museum is sure to please sumo enthusiasts. and even non-fans will be awestruck by the displays of materials related to the Japanese national sport. The museum is home to 3,700 sumo-themed, multicoloured woodblock prints, 500 sumo dolls and a collection of ‘kesho-mawashi’, those opulent silk belts worn by high-ranked wrestlers and equipped with an embroidered apron and tassels. The museum is located on the ground floor of the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo arena. After your visit, take a stroll around the neighbourhood, where you will most likely run into rikishi (sumo wrestlers) going about their daily lives. àFree. tinyurl.com/TOTsumomuseum Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

AFFORDABLE ART IRONICALLY, ONE OF the best places in Tokyo to see art on

the cheap is one of the city’s most expensive neighbourhoods: Ginza. Many of Ginza’s top retailers – including Wako, Mitsukoshi, Chanel, and Hermès – house free exhibition halls and the displays can be breathtaking. Photography fans in the area should also check out the Leica shop, which hosts free exhibitions of its own. Speaking of photography, the area around Shinjuku Gyoen is a great place for a stroll. Free galleries like Third District, Sokyusha, Place M and Totem Pole are all within walking distance, and show off the latest work from up-and-comers and veterans alike. One of our favourite strategies for seeing fine art on the cheap: pretend to be a buyer. Many art retailers hang their wares on the walls, and no one can blame you for doing a little window shopping, right? Spots we dig include Walls Tokyo (mostly contemporary and photography) and Hara Shobo (ukiyo-e woodblock prints). Some of Tokyo’s best art can actually be found outside. That includes several iconic pieces by one of Japan’s most noted modern artists, Taro Okamoto, whose sculptures can be found scattered across the city – start at the ‘Young Clock Tower’ in Ginza’s Sukiyabashi Park. The area around Sensoji Temple and Tokyo Skytree also hosts an art walk featuring a number of outdoor sculptures created by students of the Tokyo University of the Arts. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more hands on, check out an event called PauseDraw. Hosted by two professional illustrators, it’s a free monthly meetup where participants get together and, well, draw. Regardless of your ability, it’s a fun way to meet new friends and express your creativity. –Matt Schley

YOUNG CLOCK TOWER: ARJAN RICHTER VIA FLICKR (CREATIVE COMMONS ATTRIBUTION 2.0 GENERIC)

à Check out more of our open-air art picks at tinyurl.com/ TOTopenairart

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

CHEAP THRILLS

WITH INEXPENSIVE restaurants, bars and hotels for those in the know, Tokyo’s reputation for being an expensive city is mostly undeserved, but even long-term residents often lament how pricey its entertainment options can be. Here’s how to catch a show, gig or sumo bout for under ¥3,000. –Yukako Izumi

Amazing entertainment for under ¥3,000

ON-THE-DAY SUMO TICKETS

Watching giant men crash into each other doesn’t have to be wallet-wrecking – as long as you don’t mind getting up early and taking your chances. The ticket windows at Ryogoku Kokugikan, the main stadium, open at 7.45am on tournament days and sell seats for a mere ¥2,200. The next sumo tournament in Tokyo is scheduled for January 2018. àsumo.or.jp/Ticket/howtobuy

SAVE ON CINEMA TIX

Most Tokyo cinemas charge a near-extortionate ¥1,800 for a single adult ticket, but the capital’s cinephiles know how to get in on the cheap. The first day of each month is usually discount day (everyone enters for ¥1,100), while Wednesdays are ‘ladies’ day’ (ladies, you’ve just saved ¥700). Double (or triple) bills are another way to save: ShinBungeiza in Ikebukuro does all-nighters for ¥2,300, while Waseda Shochiku offers double bills of classics for ¥1,300.

SINGLE ACTS AT THE KABUKI

A standard kabuki performance consists of two or three acts, but catching only one act is also possible at the Kabukiza, Tokyo’s main kabuki theatre. Tickets for these are sold on the day and prices vary by show – most go for anywhere between ¥800 and ¥2,000. You’ll be seated on the fourth floor and have very nice views of the action. If your Japanese is up to par, check out www. kabuki-bito.jp for the schedule and prices.

àtinyurl.com/TOTbungeiza àtinyurl.com/TOTshochiku

àKabukiza Theatre: tinyurl.com/TOTkabukiza

DANCE ON THE CHEAP

Those looking to move their feet at a club but don’t feel like reaching for their wallet to pay a cover charge will want to check out Shibuya’s Oath. This box-sized bar also offers drinks at a very fair ¥500 (¥1,000 for your first drink). àtinyurl.com/TOToath

Reopened in the basement of the humongous Ginza Six complex this spring, the Kanze Nogakudo is a venerable Noh theatre originally established in 1901. The ‘happy hour’ allows you to catch the last act of every performance for ¥3,000 – quite a drop from the regular prices of ¥7,000¥12,500. Note that ‘happy hour’ tickets aren’t available in case of a sellout.

Pit Inn in Shinjuku is a mustvisit for any jazz fan in Tokyo. It has history, ambience and a consistently excellent lineup of the best domestic and foreign jazz musicians nightly. The cover charge at night (from ¥3,000) is very reasonable, but its unique afternoon live sessions are a real bargain. Taking place from 2pm almost daily they cost just ¥1,300, including a drink.

àkanze.net

àtinyurl.com/TOTpitinn

THE NOH ‘HAPPY HOUR’

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

LATE-NIGHT RAKUGO AT SUEHIROTEI

Those new to Japan’s traditional form of comic storytelling will want to start at this venerable Shinjuku theatre, where affordable late-night shows (¥1,000) are held from 9.30pm every Saturday. àtinyurl.com/TOTsuehirotei

KABUKIZA, OATH: KISA TOYOSHIMA. NOH: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

DAYTIME JAZZ AT THE PIT INN

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

Bargainhunting tips from the experts RECORDS: KOHEI ‘KING’ NOZAKI, DJ

ELECTRONICS: YINTSUNG CHEN, Tokyo-based writer

‘Most vinyl-diggers tend to head for Tokyo’s many specialist record stores, but when it comes to real finds, don’t sleep on the capital’s “recycle shops”. Secondhand havens like Book Off and Hard Off have extensive selections of records and CDs for ¥100 to ¥500 – cheap enough to take a chance on something that grabs your eye, even if you don’t recognise the artist’s name. Recycle shops also deal in everything from used books to electronics, all far cheaper than in specialist outlets. The key to finding true gems is dedication: go frequently and dig through every pile, every time.’

‘Ever wondered why all those Chinese tourists crowd Tokyo’s big electronics stores on a daily basis? It’s because they love a bargain. When you take tax exemption and various cash back services into account, shopping at the capital’s mega-outlets can result in savings of tens of thousands of yen – in some cases, enough to buy a TaipeiTokyo or Shanghai-Tokyo flight. Particularly popular items right now include Dyson vacuum cleaners and air purifiers, Bruno and Balmuda toasters, Panasonic’s Nano Care hair dryers and Japan-made rice cookers.’

COFFEE: KAILA IMADA, Time Out Tokyo editor

FASHION: VIVIAN MORELLI, Tokyo-based journalist

‘For those who can’t go a day without coffee, visiting cafés can add up to be a pricey expense. Save yourself some cash and try making your own brew in the morning before heading out the door. It’s always a good idea to grind your beans right before you brew, but grinders can be quite the investment. A cheap option is the stainless steel coffee mill (¥1,500) found at Maldive in Shimokitazawa, a shop that also sells single origin beans at reasonable prices. Another place to buy affordable yet freshly roasted beans is R.O.Star in Toyosu and Takadanobaba. 125g bags of beans start as low as ¥470, with both single-origin and blend varieties available. The café also serves both iced and hot coffee for just ¥100 and the quality puts any konbini brew to shame.’

‘Stand out from the crowd and do the environment a favour by avoiding the identikit fast fashion chains that line the malls and scour Tokyo’s numerous vintage and secondhand shops instead – just look for “reuse” and “recycle” signs. Whether you’re in the market for a designer handbag at a fraction of the listed price or some pieces you’ll be the only one sporting, you’re sure to find preloved treasures that won’t break the bank. Tokyo is famous for having some of the best vintage scenes in the world. People take such good care of their belongings here, and most secondhand finds are in mint condition. Stock up on vintage gear from Japanese labels and purchase a handful of yukatas and kimonos (some for under ¥1,000) to give to your friends and family as souvenirs.’

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

1. ¥100 SHOPS

Japan takes the ‘dollar store’ or ‘pound shop’ concept to new heights. Whereas most foreign bargain pits are home to little more than plastic tat, misspelled designer T-shirts and non-brand cleaning products, Japan’s ¥100 shops contain true gems. All-time favourites Daiso and CanDo stock cute crockery, bento boxes and calligraphy sets, while Natural Kitchen deals in chic home décor and Lawson Store 100 sells groceries. àtinyurl.com/TOT100yenshops

2. A MICHELIN MEAL FOR ¥1,000

A bowl of ramen can go for up to ¥3,000 in London or New York – try that pricing in Tokyo and chances are you’d be run out of town. Consider: Tsuta, the first ramen shop ever to earn a Michelin star, never charges more than ¥1,000 for a serving – you will need to start queuing from before 8am to have a chance of getting a bowl though.

Eight more cheap tips

4. GOURMET LUNCH GALORE

While dinner at an exclusive sushi joint or a fine French restaurant can set you back up to ¥30,000 per person, most of these gourmet havens offer very attractively priced lunch deals. Look out for daily specials or ‘today’s teishoku’ (set meal) options.

5. TRADE YOUR HOTEL FOR A HOSTEL

As Tokyo gears up for the 2020 Olympics, the desperate need for rooms has seen a host of buildings being converted into an exciting new breed of boarding houses. These upscale hostels offer comfortable stays at a fraction of what you’d pay for a regular hotel room. àtinyurl.com/TOThostels17

6. FLEA MARKET FINDS

Most penny-pinching urbanites around the world recognise the power of flea markets, and Tokyoites are no exception. Yoyogi Park and the Oi Racecourse host regular markets, while the Oedo Antique Market is great for artsy types.

àtinyurl.com/TOTtsuta

3. PUBLIC BATHING

From traditional downtown establishments to designer alternatives, all sento bathhouses in Tokyo charge an even ¥460 for a dip. Some of the best soaking spots have up to ten different tubs to try – all you need is the courage to bare yourself in front of the locals.

àtinyurl.com/TOTmarkets

àtinyurl.com/TOTonsenguide

Skincare, makeup and shampoo, sure, but also foot-peeling packs, warm eye masks and compression tights – the world is finally waking up to the wonders of Japanese drugstores. Fill your suitcase with select finds from any such shop and get a hero’s welcome on your return home.

8. FACTORY TOURS ARE ACTUALLY FUN

Many Tokyo factories (yes, they exist) give free tours of their premises, but none are as popular as the excursions offered at the capital’s big two beer breweries: Suntory in Fuchu and Kirin in Yokohama. The tours are interesting but the best is saved until last – both let you sip brews for nada at the end of their walkarounds. àtinyurl.com/TOTsuntorybeer Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

RAMEN: YASUHISA SHIMBO. EYE MASK: KISA TOYOSHIMA. SENTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

7. DRUGSTORES=SOUVENIRS

AMAZING TOKYO FOR ¥1,000

THE INFOGRAPHIC

How Tokyoites spend their yen We’ve waded through our recent reader survey to find out how you spend your free time – and disposable income – in the capital…

88.8%

of our readers say they go out to eat when they hit the town. Not a surprise – this is the gastronomic capital of the world, after all.

¥5,000

is the average bill when you do make it out clubbing, though. Considering the average cost for a meal comes to around ¥3,500, splashing cash at the club rather than on food seems de rigueur. Those ¥3,000 cover charges do hurt.

20%

of Tokyoites even go out for dinner at least twice a week, with a handful of respondents admitting they eat out virtually every single day. Over 60 percent eat out more than five times a month – no wonder the restaurant industry is booming.

It seems like you prefer food over partying it up, as hitting a club four times a month or less is the standard for most Tokyoites (67.5 percent). Almost a quarter even admit they go once a month or not at all – so much for hedonism.

9 in 10 ¥500,000+

Tokyoites take the train or metro to get to their preferred entertainment destination. Yes, our public transport system truly is that great. Somewhat surprisingly, almost two-fifths take the bus too – is that the night bus from Shibuya past Sangenjaya we’re talking?

is what one of you allegedly spends on clothes, shoes and accessories per month. We sincerely hope you’re a stylist or something.

40-40 ¥14,000 16%/5.8%

We’re almost evenly split between going shopping once a month (if at all), and getting some retail therapy twice, thrice or four times a month. The real shopaholics (five times or more) are a distinct minority, with only one in ten admitting to such a habit.

Once you do hit the shops though, you spend an average of ¥14,000 in one go. Not too shabby we’d say – and now we want to know how many items that usually includes.

The real losers in the entertainment department are cinema and theatre, with only 16 and 5.8 percent of Tokyoites respectively heading to either more than twice a month. Is the main culprit high ticket prices or the lack of foreign-language options?

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

And breathe…

Get Zen with a tea ceremony and some temple time in our guide to mindful Tokyo

okyo: one of the world’s largest cities. It’s big, buzzy and loud. But the Japanese capital isn’t all frantic-paced living and cramming on to impossibly packed subway trains. There are blissful pockets of peace and tranquillity too. From discovering the intricacies of a traditional tea ceremony to zazen meditation and dining experiences that last all afternoon, here are five ways to find calm in Tokyo.

TEA CEREMONY

So much more than dunking a bag into a mug, a Japanese tea ceremony lets you truly savour the stuff – preferably while overlooking a perfectly manicured garden. Immerse yourself in cha culture at Kosoan, a traditional wooden teahouse with a pretty garden in the leafy Jiyugaoka neighbourhood, or at Nakajima no Ochaya, located on a tidal pond in the impressive Hama-rikyu Gardens. And to learn the intricacies of the ritual, head to Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony in October, where tea masters lead first-timers through a series of ceremonies and workshops. Although Japanese tea culture seems intricate and exclusive,TGTC offers an open and welcoming atmosphere while maintaining authenticity. Tap into the Zen spirit without feeling out of place.

ZAZEN MEDITATION

Now you’ve had your tea, find peace in the big city with zazen meditation (that’s a meditation done sitting in the lotus position). In fact, tea and Zen Buddhism have more in common than you might think, as their history in Japanese society is intertwined: Zen monk Eisai brought green tea seeds to Japan for the first time, while ascetic monks took tea during their zazen meditation practice to stay awake. Several Buddhist temples in Tokyo teach the stress-busting, brain-strengthening technique of focusing your mind on your breathing and surroundings. The Korin-in temple in the upscale Hiroo district offers 50-minute sessions from 7am MondayFriday (available in English) that should have you making your way through the urban sprawl feeling significantly lighter.

ZEN GARDENS

Our favourite of Tokyo’s serene, manicured gardens is Rikugien, which once belonged to a samurai lord. It’s great in spring (hello, cherry blossom!) but also stunning in autumn. Designed in the kaiyu style, its focal point is a peaceful pond surrounded by winding paths and mini-hills. The garden also features 88 impressive landscapes representing scenes from Japanese poetry. The seventeenth-century Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden is home to koi carp and turtles, while the lush Nezu Museum garden is filled with Buddhist statues, Zen-style bamboo decorations and a modernist café.

TEMPLES AND SHRINES

For religious sites in Tokyo without the crowds, visit the Tomioka Hachiman Shrine, famed for its traditional architecture and huge

à Find out more about Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony here www.tokyo-grand-tea-ceremony.jp/en @Tokyo_Art_Days

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tokyo_artsandculture

LOCAL INSIGHT

Promotional feature

Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony

CALM IN A CUP Stéphane Danton (pictured left), owner of specialist tea shop Ocharaka in Nihonbashi, explains how Japanese tea can help you find inner peace.

What drives your passion for tea?

‘My passion is for the ingredients – the leaves. I’ve been in this business for 12 years, and hope to introduce tea to people who don’t know anything about it.’ Hama-rikyu Gardens

torii (gate). Otherwise, head to Yanaka for the Buddhist Tenno Temple, which dates back to the thirteenth century. For serenity with a view, climb the 86 stone steps of the shusse no ishidan up Mount Atago to the Atago Shrine – the highest natural point in the city.

KAISEKI DINING

For an epic fine-dining experience, book yourself in for some kaiseki cuisine. This ceremonial, artful and perfectly balanced meal (dating back to medieval Kyoto) takes place over a few hours. Everything is chosen to reflect the season, from table decorations and calligraphic menu to your hostess’s kimono and, of course, the food. Think intense, fragrant matsutake (pine mushrooms) in autumn. Expect to pay at least ¥10,000 (£70/US$90) per person, plus drinks, for kaiseki – but it’s well worth the splurge. Our favourites are the Michelin-starred Sekihotei in Harajuku, Tagetsu in Aoyama and Ukai Chikutei out in the wilds of Mount Takao.

Can tea provide a way to find peace in today’s hectic world?

‘Yes, certainly. Japanese tea is thought of as elitist, but I’m working to change that. The world of tea is so diverse, so fun. Giving in to it is the ideal way to focus and to expand one’s horizons.’

Besides drinking tea, what do you do to overcome stress and stay focused?

‘Communicating with different people is a great way to relieve stress. We all need a little more communication in our lives.’

Where should first-time visitors to Tokyo experience Japan’s tea culture? ‘Go where the expertise is, go to a tea shop. That’s where the journey starts.’

FIND MORE ARTS & CULTURE IN TOKYO

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THE BEST COFFEE IN TOKYO Tokyo is one of the world’s great coﬀee cities, with more specialist shops than most people can hope to visit in a lifetime. After much heated debate, we’ve picked out our 20 favourite cafés and marked them on the map here. Turn the page to see reviews for each one. Reviews by Kaila Imada, Claire Williamson, Ili Saarinen and Yukako Izumi. Map by Mayumi Hashimoto

1. KOFFEE MAMEYA

2. PADDLERS COFFEE

à 4-15-3 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 5413 9422. koffee-mameya.com. Daily 10am-6pm.

à 2-26-5 Nishihara, Shibuya (Hatagaya Station). paddlerscoffee.com. 7.30am-6pm, closed Mon.

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

The look: Importing beans from Portland’s famed Stumptown Coffee Roasters every week, Daisuke Matsushima’s Paddlers have been caffeinating shoppers at the Nishihara arcade since 2015. The café has a calm wooden interior, communal tables and a homely atmosphere – a little piece of the Rose City in one of the quieter corners of Shibuya. The coffee: All beans are served fresh in french press or espresso form for the perfect flavour. Beans are also available by the bag, with their most popular roast being the Nano Challa from Ethiopia, which offers delicate notes of grapefruit and peach. What to order: To accompany your cup, order one of Paddlers’ signature hot dogs, made with buns from a bakery in the neighbourhood.

PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

The look: Set in the exact same spot as the much-missed Omotesando Koffee, Eiichi Kunitomo’s Koffee Mameya is, first and foremost, a bean shop. You can choose from around 15 to 20 varieties, all in 150g bags, and have them ground for a specific purpose or machine on the spot. Inside each bean bag you’ll find a card detailing a barista’s advice for the best way to brew that particular variety. The coffee: Kunitomo sources beans from five contract roasters – Nagoya’s Bontain Coffee, Ogawa Cafe in Kyoto, Fukuoka’s Tokado Coffee and one each in Melbourne and Hong Kong. What to order: KM only serves coffee to go – grab a regular cup or espresso with the single-origin beans of your choosing.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

THE BEST COFFEE IN TOKYO 5. AMAMERIA ESPRESSO

4. ONIBUS COFFEE

The look: Occupying a renovated, traditional-style home right by Nakameguro Station, the most interesting Onibus branch in town is equipped with a shiny espresso machine and newly acquired roaster. The coffee: Onibus import topgrade beans from Rwanda and Guatemala among others and roast them in the shop. The menu is as simple as the décor: espresso, americano, latte or hand drip, nothing else. What to order: We love the Onibus lattes: simple, strong and made with whole milk only.

3. FUGLEN TOKYO

The look: The original Fuglen shop in Oslo is a blend of café, cocktail bar and vintage design boutique, where even the furniture is up for sale. Its Tokyo shop, which opened in May 2012, transplants the concept to a backstreet corner not far from Yoyogi Park. The coffee: You’ll find a long list of espresso-based options, including cortado and mocha, plus AeroPress and hand drip varieties. All are remarkably good. What to order: Start with a cup of ‘today’s coffee’, a rotating caffeine fix.

à 2-14-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6412 8683. onibuscoffee.com. Daily 9am-6pm.

à 1-16-11 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen, Yoyogi-Hachiman stations). 03 3481 0884. fuglen.no. Mon, Tue 8am-10pm, Wed, Thu 8am-1am, Fri 8am-2am, Sat 9am-2am, Sun 9am-1am.

The look: Located on the ground floor of an apartment building close to Musashi-Koyama Station, certified cupping judge Toshiaki Ishii’s stylish neighbourhood shop merits a trip off the beaten track all by itself. We love the place’s impeccably friendly service, the languid atmosphere enjoyed by everyone from local hipsters to senior citizens and the fact that Amameria upholds a strict non-smoking policy. The coffee: Choose an AeroPressed cup of joe from around half a dozen single-origin beans – far from a grandstanding stunt, this filtering method brings out the full aroma of the beans. What to order: Keep your eyes open for seasonal specials: on our summer visit, the slot was filled by coffee kakigori (shaved ice) topped with fresh orange. à 3-6-15 Koyama, Shinagawa (Musashi-Koyama Station). 03 6426 9148. amameria.com. Mon-Fri 12noon-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed 3rd Thu of the month.

The look: Operating a roastery and two shops in Sangenjaya, Obscura’s wide variety of ventures makes this ambitious company one of the major players on Tokyo’s speciality coffee scene. The quiet and homely Café is a place designed to kindly nudge those happy with any old drop onto the righteous path of joe. The coffee: Café Obscura offers only siphon coffee, and we can see why: the method makes for a remarkably smooth brew. What to order: At lunchtime, pair your cup of single-origin goodness with a house-made sandwich for ¥980. à 1-19-16 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 3795 6027. obscura-coffee.com. 11am-9pm, closed 3rd Wed of the month.

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

OBSCURA: YASUHISA SHIMBO. GOOD PEOPLE & GOOD COFFEE, THE ROASTERY: KISA TOYOSHIMA. GLITCH, PNB COFFEE: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. ONIBUS: YUKI NAKAMURA

6. CAFÉ OBSCURA

7. GOOD PEOPLE & GOOD COFFEE

9. THE ROASTERY

The look: Tucked in a side street near Ikejiri-Ohashi station, barista Tomoshi Okamoto’s Good People & Good Coffee is small and intimate. Come for the brews, stay for the vintage video game in the corner and come back for the connections brought about through drinking good coffee and meeting good people. The coffee: Okamoto’s blends are named after classic American pop-culture references like Johnny B Goode and Tomando and made in almost any style you’d want – pour-over, Seattle, Italian and, as Okamoto described it, Tokyo-style – whatever piques his curiosity is what he’ll make. What to order: Pick the Tomando and have it made your way.

The look: Collaboratively run by the folks behind Setagaya’s excellent Nozy Coffee and restaurant impresarios Tysons & Company (TY Harbor, Cicada, Ivy Place etc), this uberhip roastery and café on Harajuku’s Cat Street is one of the city’s flashiest specialist coffee haunts. The coffee: Every day, you’ll get to choose from two kinds of single-origin beans for your americano, latte or espresso – the latter comes served in a champagne glass (yes, really). What to order: The coffee-flavoured soft serves and suspiciously Cronut-like NY Rings are sure to satisfy sugar addicts.

à 3-4-11 Higashiyama, Meguro (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 5725 1303. goodpeopleandgoodcoffee. com. Tue-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-6pm, closed Mon.

à 5-17-13 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 6450 5755. tysons.jp/roastery. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun & hols 10am-9pm.

10. PNB COFFEE

8. GLITCH COFFEE & ROASTERS

The look: Kiyokazu Suzuki’s shop is located in fashionably vintage Jinbocho, nestled amongst dozens of secondhand bookstores and just a stone’s throw from Yasukuni Shrine. Its relaxed, minimalist interior pays homage to the vibe of Japan’s traditional kissaten (old-school coffee houses). The coffee: Suzuki’s goal is to bring out the best notes in each of Glitch’s carefully selected, single-origin offerings through impeccable roasting – done in house – and Kinto pour-over. His roasts usually tend towards the lighter side. What to order: The clean and fruity Kenya Karinga AA goes nicely with one of Glitch’s delightfully flaky almond croissants. à 3-16 Kanda-Nishikicho, Chiyoda (Jinbocho Station). 03 5244 5458. glitchcoffee.com. Mon-Fri 7.30am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-7pm.

The look: Opened on a quiet Meguro back street in autumn 2015, PNB ranks among the more stylish coffee shops in Tokyo. Minimalist Nordic design rules here, neutral colours dominate, and natural light fills the smallish space. The coffee: Dane Peter Buhl sources his beans from Danish roasters Coffee Collective and La Cabra Coffee, both of which specialise in direct trade with producers. You can choose either hand drip or AeroPressed coffee but nothing frothy – those looking for lattes or cappuccinos will have to go elsewhere. What to order: Try one of their artistic cinnamon rolls with your cup. à 3-13-14 Aobadai, Meguro (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 6416 5687. pnbcoffee.com. Tue-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-10pm, closed Mon. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

THE BEST COFFEE IN TOKYO

The look: ‘Coffee Only’ reads the sign outside Café de l’Ambre, which has been keeping the Ginza hordes well caffeinated since 1948. Remarkably, it’s still run by the same man: 103-year-old Ichiro Sekiguchi. The interior looks like it was last remodelled in the early ’80s, although some of the equipment is clearly much older, and it’s also the only coffee shop we’ve visited that has a washing machine behind the counter, on account of the cloth filters used when preparing drinks. The coffee: Take your pick between a lone blend coffee and 40-odd single-origin varieties, including a good number of aged coffees. What to order: Don’t miss out on the really old types – how about some beans from the ’70s?

13. BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE

The look: The globe-conquering Blue Bottle aren’t known as the Apple of the coffee industry for nothing: their KiyosumiShirakawa roastery/café (and all other five Tokyo branches) is sleek, sterile and not the comfiest shop in town. Queues form outside on weekends nonetheless. The coffee: Fresh beans are brought in every day, ensuring a crisp taste that’s often missing even at some of Tokyo’s fellow specialist joints. Both espresso and pour-over varieties are available. What to order: You won’t want to overlook the single-origin brews, which can be paired with pastries, cookies and granola bars. à 1-4-8 Hirano, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). bluebottlecoffee.jp. Daily 8am-7pm.

14. DAVIDE COFFEE STOP

The look: Who knew Iriya had a place like this? Daisuke Matsushita’s Davide is a very decent streetside café in the old-school surrounds of eastern Tokyo. The mostly turquoise-coloured main room is nearly always buzzing, while the smaller space upstairs is more relaxing. The coffee: Davide sidesteps drip coffee entirely (reasoning it takes too long to brew), offering excellent espresso-based drinks instead. What to order: Embrace your inner Milanese and down an espresso at the counter.

à 8-10-15 Ginza, Chuo (Shinbashi Station). 03 3571 1551. www.h6.dion.ne.jp/~lambre. 12noon-10pm (Sun & hols until 7pm).

à 2-3-1 Iriya, Taito (Iriya Station). 03 6240 6685. 11am-10pm (Sun until 7pm), closed Mon.

12. SATEI HATO

The look: Step through the low, marble-tiled entrance to this venerable kissaten and the first thing you’ll notice is the gorgeous tableware displayed behind a long hardwood counter. Choose from up to eight varieties of charcoal-roasted beans and watch as the formally dressed staff hand-drip your treat with almost religious dedication. The coffee: Their signature house blend is the perfect mix, producing a coffee that’s neither too mild nor bitter: a smooth cup that’s best enjoyed straight up. What to order: In addition to the long list of single-origin coffees, explore the selection of homemade desserts, including airy chiffon cakes and a decadent cheesecake.

The look: Tucked down a cosy shopping street in Koenji, Amp is run by a husband-wife duo. Their charmingly DIY-style shop is fitted with a couple of small tables and a few stools against one wall, while the opposite side is filled with merchandise including coffee equipment and beans to take home. The coffee: Whether single-origin or one of their house blends, you know you’re always getting a quality cup as the shop has been sourcing beans from the same importers since Amp’s inception in 2010. What to order: There’s no food here, but try out their popular pour-over Drop Blend which incorporates beans from Brazil, Guatemala and Colombia. à 2-20-13 Koenji-Minami, Suginami (Shin-Koenji Station). 03 5929 9587. www.coffee-amp.com. Mon-Sat 12noon-8pm, Sun & hols 11am-7pm, closed Wed.

à 1-15-19 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3400 9088. Daily 11am-11.30pm.

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

15. COFFEE AMP

SATEI HATO, COFFEE AMP, ARISE, DAVIDE COFFEE STOP: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. 4/4 SEASONS COFFEE: KISA TOYOSHIMA. TURRET COFFEE: SHOGO HASHIMOTO

11. CAFÉ DE L’AMBRE

THE BEST COFFEE IN TOKYO

16. ARISE COFFEE ROASTERS

The look: Arise is the kind of place where you feel like you’re having a good ol’ cup of coffee at your friend’s house. The walls are covered with the owner’s skateboard decks which he’s collected over the years, and there’s a handful of trinkets from his travels to Thailand littered around the in-house roaster. The coffee: There are about ten single-origin varieties to choose from, with the most popular beans coming from the Dominican Republic. Hand drip is the name of the game. What to order: To go with your mild Dominican roast, which exudes light notes of strawberry, opt for a pastry provided by the nearby Kotoripan bakery.

19. COFFEEHOUSE NISHIYA

The look: An Italian-style bar and café run by the jovial and talented Kyohei Nishiya, this welcoming Shibuya spot has a laidback neighbourhood feel to it – thanks to the owner-barista’s no-frills attitude and the fun, retro décor. The coffee: Nishiya pulls a highly competent espresso, which forms the base for his ample selection of mixed coffees. What to order: There’s no bypassing the espresso banana milkshake, while the creamy custard pudding is equally heavenly.

à 1-13-8 Hirano, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). 03 3643 3601. arisecoffee.jp. 10am-6pm, closed Mon.

18. 4/4 SEASONS COFFEE

The look: Up at the front of Shinjuku’s 4/4 (pronounced ‘all’, it turns out) you’ll be greeted by the roaster alongside tubs of beans – if you’re lucky you can catch the staff in action, meticulously measuring and toasting their beans all while keeping track of the process via computer. The coffee: 4/4 Seasons serves up a well-curated selection of single-origin beans sourced from seven countries and roasted in house daily. On our visit, they recommended a delicate roast from Burundi which gave off notes of persimmon and black honey once hand-dripped into the cup. What to order: Don’t miss the breakfast menu, which includes a granola bowl and a savoury galette, as well as a fine selection of cakes and breads baked in store.

17. TURRET COFFEE

The look: Named after the mini-trucks that zip around nearby Tsukiji market, Turret Coffee occupies a funky, intimate space only steps from the fishy action. Relax on one of the few ‘real’ seats or sit on the back of an actual turret as you chat with friends or jovial owner Kiyoshi Kawasaki over a cup. The coffee: Kawasaki both pulls and pours quality espresso, hoping that his customers get a sense of the dedication that goes into filling every single cup. What to order: If you need a real pick-me-up, get the Turret Latte, which has a double shot of espresso – not to mention some beautiful latte art. Those with a sweet tooth can snag one of the fluffy, buttery dorayaki (a pancake sandwich filled withred bean paste) made especially for Turret.

à 2-7-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). 03 5341 4273. allseasonscoffee.jp. Mon, Wed-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-7pm, closed Tue.

à SK Higashi-Ginza Bldg, 2-12-6 Tsukiji, Chuo. 080 3344 8819. facebook.com/turretcoffee. Mon-Sat 7am-6pm, Sun 12noon-6pm.

à 1-4-1 Higashi, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3409 1909. coffeehousenishiya.com. 10am-8.30pm (Sun & hols until 6.30pm), closed Tue.

20. LO SPAZIO

The look: Imagine a stereotypical neighbourhood Italian bar transposed to the suburbs of Tokyo, and you might get something like Lo Spazio. It’s one of those rare places in town where you can prop up the counter while sipping your espresso after work (or grappa, if it’s got to that point in the evening). Even the slightly shabby decor recalls the kind of place you’d expect to find in a small town in continental Europe rather than upmarket GakugeiDaigaku. The coffee: The espressos are hard to fault – a description that also applies to the cappuccinos, which start smooth but pack a nice, lingering bitterness. What to order: Combine your cup with an authentic Neapolitan pizza from the in-house oven for the full experience. à 3-3-5 Takaban, Meguro (Gakugei-Daigaku Station). 03 5722 6799. bravissimo.co.jp/bar. html. 11.30am-12midnight, closed Thu. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

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Manabu Tago Art director and designer Age: 47

LOCAL INSIGHT

Manabu Tago, art director, designer and president of MTDO Inc, has designed products for some of Japan’s coolest companies, including Toshiba and Realfleet, and has served as a judge at several design awards. He casts his expert eye over Casio’s latest G-Steel model and shares the secrets of functional beauty. What does design mean to you? A brand’s products physically express the brand’s ideas or messages to the public. Hence, as a product designer, I always need to be conscious of including the brand’s philosophy or identity into my work. It’s important for a designer to always question people’s expectations and aim for something new. Designers should also not forget that design has the power to change people’s lifestyles – especially when we’re talking about things like watches, which are worn and shown to others. What’s your first impression of the new G-Steel? Really good, actually I can see Casio’s playful mind in it. It builds on the tradition of the G-Shock as a both strong and casual watch, but also has a new style. Most people use their smartphones to check the time in today’s digital

society, but I believe that there’s also a desire to go back to the analogue. Analogue watches are usually both delicately made and stylish, so they attract qualityconscious fans who don’t mind spending a little more than they would on a digital watch. Casio has managed to harness this tendency while adding their own technological prowess to create something new. Do you see functional beauty in this watch? In the product design industry, we use the phrase ‘forms ever follow function’ – meaning that design is a means to a practical end, not only a visual concern. The ideal outcome is when the final form of a product reflects all of its functions, and that can be said for this watch. It’s functionally beautiful while expressing Casio’s identity.

How do you think Casio has managed to make a watch as function-packed as the G-Shock appeal to such a wide audience? When manufacturers focus only on practical utility, emphasising functions or market demands, their products often take a specific form that attracts only a very narrow consumer base. But that’s not true with the G-Shock. The reason, in my mind, is that Casio has maintained a sense of fun in

the development process. The dial indicator of the G-Steel is a great example: it doesn’t focus too much on utility and makes the watch feel dressed down – in a good sense. This means it can be worn in both casual and formal situations. This, in turn, testifies to how Casio has managed to uphold a clear culture and identity, which has then led to success for the brand.

THE STYLE OF STEEL Always looking to meet changing demands and surprise the world, G-SHOCK, CASIO’s signature watch series, never stops evolving. It has been reborn again this autumn, with the first fully analogue G-STEEL line. Surrounded by a high strength steel frame, this power-packed chronograph wows both with its functionality and its appearance, and is sure to add an extra notch of class to your look.

Functional beauty A top-of-the-line series, the G-STEEL has long attracted the stylish wearer. And the new models do not disappoint on the flair front: the stainless steel and resin bands are sleek and complement a formal outfit, while the simplified design means the watch goes equally well with a leather jacket. But the true beauty of this watch lies in its functions: equipped with an automatic time adjustment system through smartphone connection, solar-powered and water resistant up to pressure of 20 bar (200 metres), it also boasts the following highlight features:

SHOCK RESISTANCE

Analogue watches usually can’t withstand a knock, with hands often popping out when the timepiece gets hit, but CASIO’s shock-resistant technology makes this model supremely sturdy.

SMARTPHONE CONNECTIVITY By having the G-STEEL draw the accurate time for your location via Bluetooth on your smartphone, CASIO has succeeded in reducing the amount of detail on the dial. While the watch itself looks simple, its dedicated smartphone app is a real treasure chest of information, packing in the world time for over 300 cities.

GST-B100D-1AJF (¥55,000 plus tax)

INFORMATION ON THE FLY

The watch comes with a distinctive dial indicator at the nine o’clock position, inspired by the turbine blades of a jet aircraft engine. It rotates to graphically indicate Bluetooth connection, elapsed stopwatch time, alarm setting and battery level.

GST-B100-1AJF (¥50,000 plus tax)

For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit world.g-shock.com

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PARTNER

Get ready for the Love Tokyo Awards 2017 Kicked off successfully last autumn, our Love Tokyo Awards will be back for a sophomore edition this November. Showcasing the city’s most-loved restaurants, bars, cafés, shops and products for 2017, plus our picks of the people who made Tokyo an even better city this year, the awards ceremony has been set for November 2.

THE NOMINEES

Who’s still in the running? See below for the Time Out Tokyo editorial team’s nominees – the city’s very best restaurants, shops, bars and cafés. Experts from across the global Time Out network will be joining our own ace team in picking out one outstanding venue in each category, judged by criteria including originality, service, value and atmosphere. The winners, along with recipients of the Best Product and Face of Tokyo awards, will be announced on November 2.

RESTAURANTS

ISE SUEYOSHI SHINPAKU YAKITORI IMAI UBUKA MADAI RAMEN MENGYO GYOZA BAR COMME A PARIS PATH PONCHI-KEN SHUNKOUTEI KANEKO HANNOSUKE

SHOPS

KOFFEE MAMEYA AMBUSH WORKSHOP NAKANO BROADWAY TOKYO HOTARUDO MITSUKOSHI NIHOMBASHI MAIN STORE BEAMS JAPAN 85 (HACHIGO) SHIN-YOSHIWARA DISK UNION TOKYOBIKE GALLERY

CAFÉS

MONOZUKI CHOCOLATE JESUS TOKYO SARYO KOSOAN DAVIDE COFFEE STOP CAFÉ KITSUNÉ HIGASHI-MUKOJIMA COFFEE-TEN CAFÉ TROIS CHAMBRES ROAR COFFEE HOUSE AND ROASTERY SATEI HATO

BARS

BAR OAK LUPIN TENDER BAR LA HULOTTE DRAMBUIE ISHINOHANA STAR BAR GINZA SANLÚCAR BAR ORIENTAL LOUNGE ORCHARD BAR GINZA

LOVE FUKUSHIMA

– announcing the ten most exciting things to do in Fukushima prefecture

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Ten things to do in Fukushima LOCAL INSIGHT

It has been more than six years since the earthquake, tsunami and nuclear accident of March 2011 hit Fukushima prefecture. The recovery from that disaster has been remarkable, with Fukushima already attracting almost as many tourists as before 2011, when the region was known as one of Japan’s finest destinations. Here are ten of our favourite things to do in the country’s third-largest prefecture, a wonderland of enticing eats, healing hot springs, historical landmarks and natural beauty.

1. STUDY UP ON SAMURAI HISTORY

An essential part of any trip to Fukushima, Tsuruga Castle lets you explore the history of the feudal lords who ruled Aizu, see weapons crafted by local swordsmen and learn the fascinating story of the Byakkotai (white tiger force): a group of 20 teenage samurai who chose to take their own lives on a nearby hill during the Boshin War in 1868 believing, wrongly, that the castle’s defences had been breached. In addition to their graves, said hill is home to Sazaedo, a hexagonshaped temple built entirely of wood back in 1796. A structure echoing its mind-bending shape is said to have been attempted – unsuccessfully – by Da Vinci himself. à Tsuruga Castle: 1-1 Otemachi, Aizu-Wakamatsu. 0242 27 4005. tsurugajo.com. à Sazaedo: 1404 Ikkimachi, Hachiman Bentenshita, Aizuwakamatsu. 0242 22 3163. www.sazaedo.com.

3. TRAVEL BACK IN TIME

2. SLURP LIKE A LOCAL

Fukushima is the birthplace of Kitakata ramen, a muchloved noodle variety now a firm favourite across Japan. The light, soy sauce-flavoured pork broth with curly, semi-thick noodles, braised pork, leek and menma (fermented bamboo shoots) is best sampled at Bannai Shokudo, an ever-popular eatery which boasts franchise locations as far afield as Los Angeles. If you find the queue too long to handle, worry not – rival ramen joints dot the entire city of Kitakata. Adventurous slurpers may also want to make for the southern part of the prefecture and sample Shirakawa and Koriyama ramen, which complete Fukushima’s ramen ‘big three’. à Bannai Shokudo: 7230 Hosoda, Kitakata. 0241 22 0351. ban-nai.com/kitakata.htm.

Located less than an hour’s drive south from the regional hub of Aizu-Wakamatsu, Ouchijuku is a postal village dating back to 1640. Its thatched-roof houses have changed little since the Edo period (1603-1868) and now host a charming selection of shops and cafés. Make sure to try eating soba noodles with a leek instead of chopsticks – a local speciality that tastes far better than you’d expect. Ouchijuku is at its most beautiful in February, when thick heaps of snow cover the dwellings and the annual Snow Festival takes place. Another day trip option from Aizu is oﬀered by the pristine Goshikinuma marshlands at the foot of Mt Bandai. àOuchijuku: Shimogo, Minami-Aizu. ouchijuku.com. à Goshikinuma: Hibara, Kita-Shiobara, Yama.

4. HARVEST THE BEST OF THE LAND

5. SOAK IN CLOUDY WATERS

The hills around Fukushima City are famed for their orchards – so much so that one of the major roads crossing the area is known as the ‘Fruit Line’. Get your farmer’s hat on at the Marue orchard, where picking experiences are oﬀered from early June to early December. The best month for a visit is October, when pears, grapes and apples await hungry harvesters. You’re allowed to pick all you want for a set price (from ¥540) – as long as you’re ready to eat it all on the spot afterwards. à 3 Onigoshiyama, Ozaso, Fukushima. 024 558 0516. 184184.com/marue.

Hot springs dot the Fukushima landscape from Iwaki in the southeast to Fukushima City in the northwest, with the waters of each and every resort said to boast diﬀerent healing properties. Popular destinations include Iizaka in Fukushima City, Ashinomaki near Aizu-Wakamatsu and Yumoto in Iwaki, but our pick is the remote Takayu Onsen, renowned for its cloudy, milk-like water which is rich in hydrogen sulphide. Its opaqueness makes it ideal for first-time onsengoers who’d rather not reveal, well, everything to fellow bathers. Takayu Onsen à Takayu Onsen: Takayu, Machiniwasaka, Fukushima.

Nonbiri-kan

7. TASTE PURE CUTENESS

6. GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY

With origins going back well over 300 years, Somayaki pottery plays a central role in Fukushima’s artisanal history. Before 2011, most of the traditional kilns were based in Namie, a town near the wrecked Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant that is still partially oﬀ limits to the public due to radiation concerns. These workshops relocated to sites across the prefecture after the disaster, while a temporary central kiln was established in the city of Nihonmatsu. In addition to selling and displaying ware from ten or so member kilns, it oﬀers pottery classes for anyone eager to make their own piece and decorate it with the image of a galloping horse – the symbol of the Soma region.

Around 9am every weekday morning, dessert-lovers from both near and far assemble by the dozens in a nondescript Iwaki residential street. They all come to seek out the uber-kawaii jellies sold at Jelly no Ie, a familyrun shop turned nationwide phenomenon. Post-2011 media attention has meant that these colourful cuties now sell out in minutes, while online booking is just as competitive. But it’s worth your trouble: their jellies are both absolutely delectable and Instagram-friendly. à7-16 Teramawaricho, Onahama, Iwaki. 0246 54 2431. zerry-no-ie.net.

à 115-25 Hara, Ozawa, Nihonmatsu. 0243 24 8812. somayaki.or.jp.

8. MARVEL AT MARINE WILDLIFE

Those guttural honks you hear from the Aquamarine Fukushima aquarium as you approach it? Sea lions – hungry ones. Watching these playful beasts feed is a joy you could revel in for hours, but you probably shouldn’t: there is too much else to see at this highly educational institution. Highlights include its centrepiece, a two-millionlitre tank that simulates sea life among the colliding currents just oﬀ the coast of Fukushima, and a family area where kids can fish and touch all sorts of marine creatures. à 50 Tatsumicho, Onahama, Iwaki. 0246 73 2525. aquamarine.or.jp.

10. LEARN THE TRICKS OF THE SAKE TRADE Estimated to be more than 1,000 years old, the weeping higan cherry tree in the Fukushima town of Miharu draws huge crowds during its spring bloom. You don’t need to stand right by it to get a glimpse of the spectacular waterfall-like branches dripping with pink flowers: this giant is an impressive 13.5m high and 25m wide. Visiting outside of sakura season? An equally majestic sight is oﬀered by the sunflower fields extending across the entire Nunobiki plateau on the outskirts of Koriyama, where windmills spin in the midst of a beatific mountain landscape. The sunflowers are at their best in late August.

Perennial contenders at all of Japan’s most prestigious tasting competitions, Fukushima-based sake breweries are renowned for their innovative spirit. A particularly informative brewery to visit is Suehiro in AizuWakamatsu: while still in use, its turn-of-the-century buildings double as a museum and oﬀer an in-depth intro to the magic of mould and fermentation. No bookings are required for the free tour, which ends with a tasting session and a visit to the admirably well-stocked brewery store – they even have sake jelly.

àMiharu Takizakura: 296 Takiaza, Sakurakubo, Miharu, Tamura. 0247 62 3960. miharukoma.com/experience/183. àNunobiki Plateau Wind Farm: Konanmachi Akatsu, Koriyama. www.do-fukushima.or.jp/shoukoukai/konan.

àSuehiro: 12-38 Nisshinmachi, Aizu-Wakamatsu. 0242 27 0002. sake-suehiro.jp/ kurakoubou.

9. GO FLOWER-SPOTTING

Eating & Drinking Where to eat now in…Ginza Dine in style without breaking the bank in Tokyo’s fanciest neighbourhood. By Mayumi Koyama TOKYO’S CENTRE OF luxury is packed with exorbitantly priced boutiques, but there’s more to Ginza than bling. The neighbourhood is also a cultural hub where the modern bumps up against the traditional in fascinating ways. That spirit extends into Ginza’s eating scene, which boasts old-school eateries and places on the culinary cutting edge. Here are our top five value picks.

RENGATEI

Rengatei sits quietly on gas-lit Ginza-dori and has served traditional ‘yoshoku’ fare since 1895. Yoshoku is characterised by Japanese re-imaginings of turn-of-thecentury European and American cooking – think beef stew, deep-fried cutlets and rice on a plate. Popular dishes include pork cutlets, omelette over rice, fried oysters, fried lobster and hashed beef with rice. The place gets so packed at lunchtime that customers spill out onto the street, creating a jovial atmosphere. à 3-15-16 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 3561 7258. tinyurl.com/TOTrengatei. 11.15am-3pm (last orders 2.15pm), 4.40pm-9pm (8.30pm). Sat & hols until 8.45pm (8pm).

Kondo’s amazing tempura challenges everything you think you know about food. That a deep-fried vegetable can taste so light and fresh seems impossible – so stark is the contrast between one’s usual understanding of food cooked in grease and the oil-kissed creations conjured up by chef Kondo. In fact, he refers to tempura as ‘steamed cuisine’, wrapping vegetables from all across Japan and ultra-fresh Tsukiji seafood into a gentle hull of batter before giving them the hot treatment. One of Kondo’s standouts is the sweet potato tempura, which looks like a slice of pure gold. Fried very gently in order to maintain its sweetness and served piping hot, it’s a dish you’re unlikely to find anywhere else no matter how hard you try. à Sakaguchi Bldg 9F, 5-5-13 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5568 0923. tinyurl.com/TOTkondo. 12noon-1.30pm, 5pm-8.30pm, closed Sun & Mon holidays. Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

RENGATEI, KONDO, SHISEIDO PARLOUR: YASUHISA SHIMBO. RENGE, SUZUKI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

KONDO

SUZUKI

At this hidden gem you’re in for delicate and colourful meals prepared by Akinobu Suzuki, an itamae with 28 years of experience, 15 of which were spent in New York. Easy on the eye, uncompromisingly seasonal and ambitiously out-there in terms of flavours, chef Suzuki’s cuisine feels almost underpriced – despite the fact you need to shell out a flat ¥10,000 (plus tax) for the omakase (chef’s selection), the only option on the menu. This deal is composed of ten or so seasonal dishes, which draw on influences from French, Italian and fusion styles while remaining very Japanese both in terms of preparation techniques and presentation. On our visit, Suzuki’s autumn menu included a marinated and grilled sanma (Pacific saury) that lingered long in the memory and a heavenly fresh ginkgo nut jam. à 1-3-2 Tsukiji, Chuo (Shintomicho, Tsukiji stations). 03 3543 1711. tinyurl.com/TOTsuzukiginza. 6pm-9.30pm, closed Sun & hols.

RENGE

Renge occupies a small, unassuming space on the ninth floor of a newly renovated building and consists of little more than an open kitchen, counter seating and a few small tables. Don’t let the setting fool you, as there’s nothing basic about the food; in fact, it allows chef Hidetoshi Nishioka’s Shanghai-influenced cuisine to truly take centre stage. Only open for dinner, Renge offers a tasting menu of around a dozen courses. Starting with a plate of small morsels including cold-cut chicken in a feisty chilli oil, Chinese softshell turtle jelly, okra and jellyfish salad, pickled black marlin, and figs and walnuts soaked in rice wine, the hors d’oeuvres alone are a journey through contrasting flavours and textures. You can also look forward to dim sum, seasonal vegetables, Renge’s ‘signature soup’ – a consommé of high-grade Jinhua ham – fish, meat, fried rice or Shanghai noodles and, to finish, not one but two desserts. Probably best to take the stairs on the way out – you could probably use the exercise after such a meal.

SHISEIDO PARLOUR GINZA

Like Rengatei, Shiseido Parlour – which was founded in 1902 – is a pioneer of yoshoku. The restaurant’s signature dish is sure to raise eyebrows – and possibly remove them altogether. It consists of curry rice topped off with lobster and abalone, which are flambéd at your table. Of course, it’s quite the luxury option and will set you back around ¥10,000 (plus a service charge). The third-floor café also specialises in sweet treats including old-school ice cream soda (popular for well over a century now, we hear) and fruit parfaits, with a strawberry version (¥1,730) that contains enough milk and ice cream to cause the lactoseintolerant to break into a cold sweat at first sight.

à Ginza 745 Bldg 9F, 7-4-5 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6228 5551. tinyurl.com/ TOTrenge. 6pm-10pm, closed Mon.

à Ginza Shiseido Bldg 4-5F, 8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Shinbashi stations). 03 5537 6241. tinyurl.com/ TOTshiseido. 11.30am-9pm, closed Mon.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

GINZA COBAU

Considered overpriced and inaccessible, Ginza’s yakiniku eateries don’t have the best of reputations among the capital’s price-conscious carnivores. But Cobau is the exception: with prix fixe deals starting from ¥9,180, it’s far from cheap, but provides value with an impressive menu of rare, gorgeously plated kuroge (black-haired) wagyu cuts. One of the few places in Ginza that combines quality with variety, the refined, chic restaurant also offers a wide range of nonyakiniku meat dishes, including Koreanstyle sukiyaki. à La Paix Bldg 5F, 6-7-6 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5568 5510. tinyurl.com/TOTcobau. Mon-Fri 5pm-11.30pm (last orders 10.45pm), Sat, Sun & hols 4pm-11pm (10.20pm).

The best yakiniku in Tokyo We check in with the experts on where to find the very best grill-it-yourself meat in town

FROM SUSHI AND SASHIMI to gentle grilled fish teishoku (set meals) and two-hour crab feasts – think eating in Tokyo and seafood is probably what springs to mind first. But Tokyo29Report is looking to change that. This meat-loving Instagrammer fills his feed with the best carnivorefriendly restaurants in the city. The 29er is particularly obsessed with the yakiniku (grilled meat) scene. Yakiniku is communal dining at its most moreish – diners usually order several dishes which they then cook themselves on the coal- or gas-fuelled grills set into their table. Here we count down the finest in town.

GINZA COBAU, ICHIRIN SAITEMO HANA WA HANA, YAKINIKU SHIMIZU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. NAKAHARA: YASUHISA SHIMBO. YORONIKU: DAIKI SUZUKI

ICHIRIN SAITEMO HANA WA HANA

Having spent five years honing their skills at Tsukishima yakiniku favourite Denden, the duo behind this hidden Yushima gem are especially well-versed in fresh offal. While ‘organ meats’ might not jump off the menu to many visitors, it’s worth taking a walk on the culinary wild side. Pleasantly seasoned and cut into easy-to-eat pieces, these make for the perfect companion to beer on a hot day. The menu is extensive to say the least, but you can’t go wrong with the offal gyoza, deep-fried beef tongue or diaphragm cutlet (‘harami katsu’). Ichirin stays open until midnight, making it an excellent post-drink destination. à 3-46-8 Yushima, Bunkyo (Yushima Station). 03 3836 2987. tinyurl. com/TOTichirin. 6pm-12midnight, closed Sun. Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

Eating & Drinking NAKAHARA

You’ve sampled the standard steaks and offal, and are looking to climb the carnivore ladder. There’s no better place to begin your quest than this Ichigaya eatery, which always stocks finestquality kuroge wagyu beef. Book in advance if you want to sample their famed sirloin, a truly luxurious treat. The eight-course daily specials (from ¥17,000), composed only of A5-grade product, represent the zenith of yakiniku in Tokyo. à Gems Ichigaya 9F, 4-3 Rokubancho, Chiyoda (Ichigaya Station). 03 6261 2987. tinyurl.com/ TOTnakahara. Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 6pm-11pm, Sat, Sun & hols 5pm-11pm, closed Wed.

YORONIKU

An essential stop on the Tokyo yakiniku trail, this sleek Aoyama giant is best enjoyed by ordering one of the prix fixe ‘courses’. More than just a long list of different cuts and flavours, these feel like carefully thought-out love letters to meat, all composed with expertise and dedication. Highlights include fluffy, supermodel-slim chateaubriand, beef served with truffles, and deep-fried, breaded fillets – all dishes that were first introduced by Yoroniku and then taken up by competitors. Yakiniku isn’t usually considered a seasonal pleasure, but here you can be sure that the time of year is reflected on the menu. à Luna Rossa B1F, 6-6-22 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 3498 4629. tinyurl.com/TOTyoroniku. Mon-Fri 6pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), Sat 5pm-12midnight (11pm), Sun & hols 5pm-11pm (10pm).

YAKINIKU SHIMIZU

Hungry for meat after a visit to Meguro’s temples? No worries – this carnivore’s haven is just a quick walk away. The spicy appetisers prepare you for their masterpiece, the kuroge wagyu beef tongue (¥1,500), a rare, gently elastic delicacy that everyone should sample at least once. Those on a budget might want to choose the five-course set (¥3,500), a combination of rare delights soaked in slightly sweet barbecue-style sauce. We’ll even let you in on a secret: it’s not on the menu, but staff will serve beef sweetbread (from the cow’s pancreas) if asked nicely. à TY Bldg 2F, 4-29-13 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa (Fudomae Station). 03 3492 2774. tinyurl.com/TOTshimizu. Tue-Sat 5pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), Sun & hols 5pm-11pm (10pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday).

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Shopping & Style

The wild west From well-curated vintage finds to made-inJapan goods, take some time to shop through the charming streets of Kichijoji. By Kaila Imada

Hyakunen

KICHIJOJI might ring a bell for Ghibli fanatics who head west to

If you’re not looking hard enough, you might miss this cult bookshop tucked away on the second floor across from the Tokyu department store. It’s worth seeking out though: inside you’ll find a grand selection of both secondhand and newly published books, magazines and ’zines as well as DVDs and a small range of records. There’s even a handful of children’s books on hand in case you have your little ones in tow. The shop also hosts exhibitions and Q&A sessions where readers can meet with authors and various artists who have work showcasing at the bookshop.

visit the famous animation studio’s museum, or to those drawn to romantic strolls through the luscious Inokashira Park. However, the charming area – an ever-present on lists of Tokyo’s ‘most desirable neighbourhoods’ – is also a treasure trove for those looking to spend a little cash, offering up a selection of stores capable of satisfying the most ardent shopaholic. Make your way through Nakamichi-dori just west of the station for cute cafés and ‘zakka’ shops selling a variety of miscellaneous knickknacks, or head on down the path which leads to Inokashira Park for vintage wear and the lively restaurants which line the street. Here are our favourite Kichijoji stores.

à Murata Bldg 2F, 2-2-10 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 6885. 100hyakunen.com. 12noon-9.30pm, closed Tue.

Skit A haven for sneakerheads, Skit carries everything from the latest models and limited-edition versions to dead stock amongst which you might rediscover a pair of past favourites. Sift through rows upon rows of colourful, wrapped-up shoes which line the store walls classified according to brand. The focus here is on men’s shoes from the old favourites (Adidas, Nike, Reebok, Onitsuka Tiger etc), but there are a few pairs for women and kids as well. Make sure to follow the store’s Twitter feed, as they’re frequently updating it with new arrivals. The shop selects products on a pair-bypair basis, so if you see a shoe in your size you better make a quick decision. à D-Asset Kichijoji 1F, 1-18-1 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 47 6671. k-skit.com. Daily 11am-9pm. Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

Markus Situated just off of the popular Nakamichi-dori shopping street, Markus is home to a fine array of Japanese objects of desire sourced from all across the country. The shop owner personally picks out everything in the shop and goes around the country to visit various craftspeople to learn about their unique products. You’ll see that items are categorised by area and artisan, with small descriptions accompanying each and every one. Our favourites include beautiful handmade fans from Kagawa, tea leaves from Shizuoka prefecture and stunning pottery and kitchenware from Okinawa. à Musashino Country Heights #112, 2-18-15 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 2804. marku-s.net. Daily 11am-8pm, irregular holidays (notified via Instagram).

Nico Head on up to Nico for a well-curated collection of vintage duds for both sexes and unique lifestyle accessories you never knew you needed. Located a stone’s throw from Kichijoji Station’s south exit, the shop is conveniently open late on weekdays to catch shoppers after work hours. Sift through classic clothing staples including striped boatneck shirts and denim button-ups, many of which are categorised by the year they originated. The collection is heavy on the ’90s and early 2000s, but there are a few well-kept pieces from earlier years, and everything is still in great condition. There’s also a small lineup of jewellery and accessories, including a nice selection of pre-loved Ray-Bans. à Otake Bldg 2F, 1-1-2 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 72 1557. twovirgin.com. 3pm-11pm, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-9pm.

Outbound Outbound is the sister store of popular lifestyle shop Roundabout in Yoyogi-Uehara and showcases a beautiful selection of items collected from all around Japan. With gorgeous cloths, carved furniture, woven baskets and fine jewellery to explore, browsing through this ‘select shop’ is always a peaceful and soothing experience. Outbound also plays host to various exhibitions which change regularly. Be sure to check their website for news on the latest shows and happenings.

PHOTOS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

à Shop 101, 2-7-4 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 7720. outbound.to. 11am-7pm, closed Tue.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Shopping & Style

Where to buy a sukajan

Souvenir hunting

Whether you’re looking to buy a jacket as an actual souvenir or just want to up your style game, there are many places to shop for an authentic sukajan. From Yokosuka, home of the original sukajan and an hour out of the city, to dedicated stores around Tokyo, here are some of our favourite spots.

The souvenir jacket has gone from controversial fashion statement to cult classic. Kaila Imada delves into the world of the ‘sukajan’

YOKOSUKA TOKYO

A JACKET WITH DEEP ROOTS in both Japanese

and American culture, the ‘sukajan’ has made a stylish comeback in recent years, with modern versions being sported by everyone from Kanye West to Zayn Malik. But where did it originate? Fashionistas can thank the American soldiers who were stationed in Yokosuka south of Tokyo after World War II. They were the first ones to start embellishing their army wear with local symbols as a memento – or souvenir – of their time stationed in Japan. From there, the trend continued and soon jackets made from leftover parachute silk were being embellished with stereotyped symbols of Japanese culture, from geishas and dragons to cherry blossoms, tigers and even the maps of military campaigns in Japan. Come the ’60s, cultural revolution in Japan saw the sukajan adopted by teenagers as an act

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

of defiance against mainstream society. Back then, the jacket was often seen as a symbol of rebellion – and its notoriety was secured when filmmakers started using sukajan as the outfit of choice of screen gang members and the yakuza. But those questionable associations are all but gone today and the jacket has been brought back to the mainstream – copied by everyone from Gucci and Saint Laurent to Zara and H&M. For shoppers serious about investing in a quality souvenir jacket, it’s probably best to steer away from fast fashion copies and instead look into the genuine article. Some of the original shops in Yokosuka still allow you to customise your jacket, from the fabric colours to picking your pattern and embroidery. They don’t come cheap – a good sukajan will set you back at least ¥13,000 – but this is one souvenir you’ll be showing off for years to come.

Shopping & Style

Prince Shokai Located along Dobuita Street, Yokosuka’s popular shopping row, Prince has been turning out authentic souvenir jackets for nigh on 70 years. You can choose from a select range of colours as well as pick the embroidery print from the samples hanging around the store. Quality can’t be rushed, though, and it will take about three months from the date you order for the jacket to be finished. à From ¥13,700. 2-4 Honcho, Yokosuka, Kanagawa (Yokosuka Station). 046 822 3907. 11am-5pm (Tue until 4pm), closed Wed.

Mikasa vol. 2

First Shokai Another popular Yokosuka spot for the souvenir jacket, First Shokai has been making customisable souvenir jackets for 35 years. You can personalise your jacket just the way you like it here – bring in a design or sift through the books of photos in the store for inspiration. The shop has made numerous jackets for celebrities, including Ken Yokoyama’s Crazy Ken Band and singer Eikichi Yazawa. Again you’ll need to be patient, a customisable jacket takes about two months for completion, but we guarantee it’ll be well worth the wait.

This Yokosuka shop is one of the few that still carries Tailor Toyo, one of the original producers of the souvenir jacket. The brand’s reversible numbers – which come in a multitude of colours and patterns – are particularly coveted. Mikasa is also home to another made-in-Japan brand called Hoshihime, whose jackets come in both thicker varieties for the cooler months and thin versions perfect for layering. à From ¥14,800. 2-7 Honcho, Yokosuka, Kanagawa (Yokosuka Station). 046 823 0312. sukajyan.com. Daily 11am-6pm.

à From ¥34,000. 2-5 Honcho, Yokosuka, Kanagawa (Yokosuka Station). 046 825 3800. 12noon-7pm, closed first and third Thu of the month.

Kinji This popular vintage and consignment shop in Harajuku houses a fine selection of gently used and vintage souvenir jackets. Sift through the dedicated rack set up in the middle of the shop for a mix of unique coats at reasonable prices. You can usually tell you’re holding an authentic jacket by the higher price tag, but Kinji is also the perfect place to get a reasonably priced item if you aren’t ready to splurge. à Prices vary. Tokyo YM Square Harajuku B1F, 4-31-10 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 6406 0505. kinji.jp. Daily 11am-8pm.

à From ¥12,960. 4-7-8 Ueno, Taito (Ueno Station). 03 3832 4466. yokosuka-jumper.com. Daily 11am-7pm, closed every third Wed.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TOP, OKUMA SHOKAI: KISA TOYOSHIMA. KINJI, YOKOSUKA SHOPS: KAILA IMADA

Okuma Shokai Tucked down the busy streets of Ameyoko in Ueno, Okuma Shokai carries a vibrant selection of souvenir jackets for men, women and even children. The shop stocks both the padded thick and the thinner versions of the jackets. Offering ready-made and customisable options, the selection here is pretty good and you can wear many of the jackets right off the rack, no waiting time necessary.

Art & Culture

Blank cheques Kosuke Shimizu discusses business and the importance of the blank space with butoh dancer Norihito Ishii of the internationally renowned Sankai Juku troupe

NORIHITO ISHII: KISA TOYOSHIMA. STAGE: MEGURI © SANKAI JUKU

BUTOH, A FORM OF DANCE

theatre inspired by traditional Japanese aesthetics, has had a tremendous impact on the world of contemporary dance. One leading influence has been the Sankai Juku dance company, established in 1975 and now based at the Théâtre de la Ville in Paris. With Sankai Juku set to perform a piece called ‘Meguri – Teeming Sea, Tranquil Land’ this November at Tokyo’s New National Theatre, the troupe’s new generation of dancers are claiming the spotlight. One of them is 33-year-old Norihito Ishii, who we caught up with to discuss art, business – and art as business. A bit of a loner in his childhood, Ishii first came in contact with the world of dance through a late-night TV show inspired by the street dance boom that spread through Japan in the late ’90s. He started out dancing in entertainment productions, but gradually started feeling that something was missing. The turn to contemporary dance, he says, was an attempt to ‘find an answer to my doubts about myself’. This was also when Ishii first encountered Sankai Juku, a troupe that would have a huge influence

reverence. ‘He takes in new things while reading, studying, looking, listening, eating and drinking.’ This is a spirit of constant inquiry that Ishii seems to have inherited: in addition to dance, he has immersed himself in both photography and design, recently turning to the traditional Japanese arts as well. In a world where many artists have a hard time making a living, the multi-talented performer is also an entrepreneur, employing marketing techniques with his company Deviate.co to raise the artist into the realm of ‘respectable professions’ in Japan. 2016 installation ‘The Empty Garden’ was Ishii’s attempt to

on his future. For Ishii, whose routines had tended towards the kinetic until then, the ‘quiet, yet so intensely rich’ style of Sankai Juku, described as anything from ‘slow’ and ‘intensely controlled’ to ’theatrical’, was a revelation. ‘I had no idea that such subtle beauty existed,’ he recalls. After undergoing a period of training, Ishii officially became a member of Sankai Juku in September 2010. Ushio Amagatsu, the company’s artistic director and a butoh legend, remains a powerful influence on Ishii’s creative work. ‘Amagatsu is constantly absorbing things from everyday life,’ says Ishii with

put his philosophy into practice. Having used flowers to express eternal themes such as the transient nature of life and the stillness of death, it was built on the same aesthetic sensibilities that fuel his dancing. Drawing on his experience with Sankai Juku and the traditional arts, Ishii focused on the concept of ‘yohaku’, which translates as ‘blank space’ but corresponds to the Buddhist concepts of nothingness and emptiness. Yohaku, says Ishii, is the key to success in art, in both an expressive and business sense. Blank spaces allow an artwork to stimulate the imagination of its onlookers. ‘The existence of emptiness lets people fill it with feelings, which they can then relate to their own lives,’ says Ishii. ‘This is why a demand for art will always exist, and why I devote myself to the production of yohaku.’

à See Norihito Ishii in Sankai Juku’s ‘Meguri – Teeming Sea, Tranquil Land’ at the New National Theatre Nov 25-26. A seats ¥5,400, B seats ¥3,240. nntt.jac.go.jp/english/ productions/detail_009684.html. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture

ESSENTIAL EXHIBITIONS

New shows to see

The first exhibition at Shinjuku’s Yayoi Kusama Museum – the world’s only museum dedicated entirely to the bewigged contemporary artist – will be on until February 2018 and features works from Kusama’s ‘My Eternal Soul’ series, which was also the focus of the Mori Museum’s extensive and wildly popular retrospective earlier this year. Note that entry is by time slot (four per day, at 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.30pm; the museum is open Thursday through Sunday) and that you’ll need to buy tickets in advance. Do so through the museum’s bilingual website.

John William Waterhouse and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley.

à Yayoi Kusama Museum, Oct 1-Feb 25. 107 Bentencho, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTkusamalove. 11am-5pm, closed Mon-Wed (except for holidays).

à Ueno Royal Museum, Oct 7-Dec 17. 1-2 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTfearpainting. 10am-5pm.

FEAR IN PAINTING

ANCIENT CIVILIZATION OF THE ANDES

Based on a bestselling book by Kyoko Nakano, a scholar of German literature and an art historian, this travelling exhibition heads to Ueno after a summertime stop in Kobe. Perfect for those dark and rainy autumn days, it focuses on some of the scariest paintings in the history of Western art: 80 pieces by mostly Victorian-era artists including pre-Raphaelite painter Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

MASK WITH INLAYS, GOLD, MOCHE (200A.C.750/800D.C.), CULTURE MINISTRY OF PERU/ NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURE AND SCIENCE

YAYOI KUSAMA: CREATION IS A SOLITARY PURSUIT, LOVE IS WHAT BRINGS YOU CLOSER TO ART

empire from the 13th to the mid-16th century before being conquered by the Spanish. Split into ten chronological sections, the display also highlights the creators of the famed Nazca Lines and displays art from across the Andes, including golden masks and accessories, ceramics and clothing. à National Museum of Nature and Science, Oct 21-Feb 18. 7-20 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTandes. 9am-5pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), closed Mon.

VAN GOGH & JAPAN

One of the most influential postImpressionist painters and an artist whose biographical details are almost as famous as his iconic pieces such as ‘The Starry Night’ and ‘Sunflowers’, Vincent van Gogh drew plenty of inspiration from Japanese art. That strain of the Dutch master’s creativity is explored in great detail at ‘Van Gogh & Japan’, a two-part exhibition that surveys both Vincent’s Japonism and Japanese people’s love for the artist. You’ll

An exhibition of truly epic scale, this look at ancient Andean culture covers a whopping 15,000 years, nine distinct civilisations and a geographical area that corresponds to most of the western side of South America. Said civilisations range from the prehistorical settlers of Caral in modern-day Peru to the Incas, who ruled over a mountainous

VINCENT VAN GOGH, COURTESAN (AFTER EISEN), 1887, VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM. © VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM (VINCENT VAN GOGH FOUNDATION)

Check out the new Yayoi Kusama museum, explore ancient Latin American history and pass through a reallife animal house at autumn’s best art events

get to pore over around 40 works by Van Gogh himself, plus up to 50 pieces said to have influenced him. à Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Oct 24-Jan 8. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTvangogh. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri and Nov 1, 2 & 4 until 8pm), closed Mon.

TADAO ANDO: ENDEAVORS

Former pro boxer, Pritzker Prize recipient and all-round boss architect Tadao Ando was momentarily in hot water for his role in the Olympic Stadium controversy which eventually saw the Ando-picked Zaha Hadid plan discarded in favour of a less flashy and more down-to-earth design

NATIONAL TREASURE: STANDING EIGHT YOUTH ATTENDANTS OF FUDO MYO'O. SEITAKADOJI FIGURE. KONGOBUJI, WAKAYAMA. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF KOYASAN REIHOKAN MUSEUM

courtesy of Kengo Kuma. But the Osaka-born master was hardly deterred, and now flaunts his impressive oeuvre at the National Art Center. Dive into Ando’s world via blueprints, sketches, models and complete presentations of all the residential designs he’s ever created, look back at the architect’s work on the ‘art island’ of Naoshima by entering a massive installation, and stop by a fullscale replica of Osaka’s Church of the Light in the open-air area. à The National Art Center, Tokyo, until Dec 18. 7-222 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTando. 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm, Oct 1 until 10pm), closed Tue.

UNKEI: THE GREAT MASTER OF BUDDHIST SCULPTURE

comprehensive look at his life and work features displays of statues borrowed from temples across the country, including the stately ‘Four Heavenly Kings’, a registered national treasure composed of four sculptures each over two metres tall.

of around 150 of Tsuji’s finest works, including calligraphy and items from his private collection, plus related pieces by painter Takeo Yamaguchi and American ceramic sculptor Peter Voulkos.

Kyotoite, francophile and Kimura Ihei Award winner Keiichi Tahara made his name as a photographer but also worked with light and shadow through other means, including sculpture and installation. He sadly passed away this June at the age of 65 – while in the midst of preparations for this extensive, multidisciplinary exhibition realised in collaboration with veteran dancer and actor Min Tanaka, 72. Centred on the relationship between light and the body, ‘Photosynthesis’ consists of images Tahara shot with Tanaka as his subject way back in the late ’70s and new photographs taken specifically for this exhibition.

à Crafts Gallery (The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo), until Nov 23. 1-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTtsuji. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (except Oct 9) and Oct 10.

à Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, until Dec 24. 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 0651. tinyurl.com/TOTtahara. 11am-5pm (Wed until 8pm), closed Mon (except Oct 9) and Oct 10.

ATSUHIKO MISAWA’S ANIMAL HOUSE: HOUSE OF ENIGMAS

CERAMIC ARTIST TSUJI SEIMEI: THE BEAUTY OF AKARU SABI

Based in western Tokyo for most of his life, ceramic artist Seimei Tsuji specialised in the art of yakishime (high-fired, unglazed stoneware). It was in this field that Tsuji left a lasting contribution, constructing his very own aesthetic – one distinguished by asymmetric forms and earthy colours. Known as ‘akaru sabi’, it is the focus of this extensive retrospective, which consists LARGE CASE, "TENSHIN", SHIGARAKI TYPE (1970, THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, TOKYO)

Active in the late Heian (794– 1185) and early Kamakura (1192–1333) periods, Unkei is considered Japan’s greatest master of Buddhist sculpture. Working during a period of political upheaval, when the centre of power shifted from the aristocracy in Kyoto to the samurai in Kamakura, Unkei brought a revolutionary strain of realism into the realm of religious art, depicting buddhas, bodhisattvas and other figures of Buddhist lore in stark, striking terms. This

KEIICHI TAHARA: PHOTOSYNTHESIS WITH MIN TANAKA

ATSUHIKO MISAWA, KATSURA FUNAKOSHI, MASATO KOBAYASHI, HIROSHI SUGITO, MASASHI ASADA WITH ANIMALS / 2017 PHOTOGRAPHS BY MASASHI ASADA

CHURCH OF THE LIGHT, 1989, IBARAKI, OSAKA (PHOTO: MITSUO MATSUOKA)

Art & Culture

à Tokyo National Museum, until Nov 26. 13-9 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTunkei. 9.30am-5pm (Fri, Sat and Nov 2 until 9pm), closed Mon (except Oct 9).

Depicting wild beasts with a sharp but humorous eye, wood sculptor Atsuhiko Misawa has been working on his ongoing ‘Animals’ series for more than 16 years now, so you might have seen his vivid, lively pieces at a previous Tokyo exhibition – or in replica form at one of the city’s countless knickknack shops. Misawa’s latest show lets you dive deep into his world of quirky beasts: ‘House of Enigmas’ sees furry friends from lions and bears to cats and bunnies displayed in a maze-like space inspired by the designs of late architect Seiichi Shirai. Misawa himself will be working on new sculptures at the museum on Saturdays and Sundays. à Shoto Museum of Art, Oct 7-Nov 26. 2-14-14 Shoto, Shibuya. 03 3465 9421. tinyurl.com/ TOTmisawa. 10am-6pm (Fri until 8pm), closed Mon (except Oct 9) and Oct 10. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Music

Our friends electric Kunihiro Miki rounds up five Japanese electronic music artists you should keep an eye on

NHK yx Koyxen

JAPAN HAS AN ILLUSTRIOUS history in the field of electronic music, and the land that gave you legends Yellow Magic Orchestra in the ’70s, Pizzicato Five in the ’80s and techno overlords Ken Ishii and Takkyu Ishino in the ’90s continues to teem with creativity. Here are five artists taking techno, house, ambient and other eclectic electric genres in exciting new directions.

The name Kohei Matsunaga may not ring a bell to many international listeners yet, but the big time is calling this avantgarde producer, who divides his time between Osaka and Berlin. Recording under the alias NHK yx Koyxen, 20-year industry veteran Matsunaga has been in the beat business since high school and has developed a unique sound best appreciated on the dancefloor. Synths scatter like droplets while a pounding bass line gives the eclectic mixture weight. Look out for ‘Exit Entrance’, the new NHK yx Koyxen album on DFA Records, this October. àkoyxen.blogspot.jp

CRZKNY (Crazy Kenny)

YPY

Akiko Kiyama

It’s possible that Koshiro Hino never sleeps. The Osaka-based experimental multi-talent is busy with several major projects, including hard-charging rock-meets-minimal-dub fourpiece Goat and a 20-man ‘hybrid ensemble’ known as Virginal Variations, but he somehow also finds time for YPY, his techno-focused alias. Challenging the conventions of club tunes in ever-innovative ways, he has recently found a receptive audience in Europe, releasing records on Berlin’s Nous and London’s Where To Now? imprints.

Dividing her time between Tokyo and Berlin, Akiko Kiyama is already a household name among European techno aficionados. A master of the minimal, she steers clear of catchy dance tracks and takes her tunes in a more abstract direction. The resulting soundscapes are cerebral beauties capable of moving heart, head and feet. àakikokiyama.com

àbirdfriend.bandcamp.com Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

Japanese producers were quick to embrace footwork, the stark, accelerated kind of dance music that originated in Chicago in the ’90s and gained wider global attention via the UK’s Planet Mu label. But while most of the homegrown productions were content to hover at the level of pastiche, Hiroshima’s CRZKNY has made the genre his own. Unabashedly political, he has been at it since 2012 and released a hardhitting new album, ‘Meridian’, this April. An artillery salvo of juke-y bass with noise elements mixed in, it’s a record that reveals new layers on every listen. àcrzkny.org

SAPPHIRE SLOWS PERHAPS THE BRIGHTEST among Tokyo’s new wave of rising indie stars, 27-year-old Hiroshima native Sapphire Slows has gone from bedroom producer to star attraction at major Japanese electronic music festivals including spring’s Rainbow Disco Club and Taico Club. Her new single ‘The Edge of My Land’ is an exciting track that hints at more great things to come on ‘Time’, a mini-LP due out this autumn. We caught up with the multitalented musician and DJ to find out what makes her tick. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR MUSIC?

It’s difficult to put it into words. Some of the ones I’ve seen in the media are ‘hazy’, ‘obscure’, ‘slow’, ‘experimental’ and ‘pop’. Pop is something I’m experimenting a lot with right now. I want to always have that strange and special bit.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO START MAKING MUSIC? In elementary school I listened to the J-pop that was popular at the time, but later turned to grunge and old punk and then John Frusciante, listening the hell out of his solo albums. I also liked dark and deathly stuff like Syd Barrett – anything that was creepy and psychedelic. My favourite Japanese band was Number Girl. Before moving to Tokyo, I had no concept of club music. I formed a band after coming here for university, and my interests gradually turned

toward synthesisers and electronic music. As I started going to record stores like Big Love and Jet Set, I’d dig for the latest indie, experimental and plain weird music. Record stores are great for getting into a new groove, even if you don’t know the names [of the artists]. Music gradually became my passion, and eventually it also became my job. I was lucky to have my stuff released by [LA-based label] Not Not Fun and Big Love – that’s how I got started.

YOU’VE BEEN GETTING INTO DJING LATELY. WHAT ELSE DO YOU HAVE PLANNED FOR THE NEAR FUTURE?

Learning the DJ craft has had a huge influence on my own productions. I think the two roles are complementary and challenge me to become better at both. As for upcoming plans, my new mini-LP ‘Time’ is coming out on UK label Kaleidoscope in September. It’s something I put a lot of time into making while having a lot on my mind, and it’s my most vocal-focused, pop-heavy release so far. Beyond that, I’ll be touring China in October and Europe in November, including a date at Ableton Loop 2017 in Berlin. I also want to release something next year, so I hope to keep producing at the same time. It’ll be pretty busy, but I’m really excited. àsoundcloud.com/sapphireslows

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife Grand stands

Deguchiya

Originally opened in 1933, Deguchiya added a kaku-uchi counter when it was renovated in 2008. Although wine is the speciality here, you’ll also get to choose from a great selection of sake and shochu, craft beers and a small lineup of pub grub. The grape-loving owner focuses on bottles from smallerscale vineyards and favours organic and natural wines. The bar offers the opportunity to sample wines from ¥400 per glass, alongside slices of ‘the cheese of the day’ (¥150). Look out for guest bottles, too: one recent offering was Tamagawa sake, created by Oxford graduate-turned-sake brewer Philip Harper, the only Westerner to date to earn the title of ‘toji’ (master brewer). Deguchiya is a great spot for learning more about the origins and producers of your favourite tipples.

Mari Hiratsuka sips her way around the ‘kaku-uchi’ counters of Tokyo’s finest liquor stores ORIGINALLY USED TO DESCRIBE the unsanitary act of drinking straight from the bottle, the Japanese word ‘kaku-uchi’ now refers to sipping booze in the corner of a liquor store – often at a stand bar set up specifically for the purpose. These counter-only establishments, which allow you to sample from any bottle from the parent shop’s often vast selection, aren’t just considerably cheaper than bars: they often also go to great lengths to provide snacks that pair well with the drinks on offer. These are five of our favourite casual in-store boozers – don your comfiest shoes and prepare to linger.

à 2-3-3 Higashiyama, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3713 0268. deguchiya.com. 11am-10pm, holidays 3pm-9pm, closed Sun.

Beer Stand Hiranoya

Hiranoya is all about changing with the times: founded in 1907, it operated as a liquor dealer-come-convenience store during the bubble economy years of the late ’80s before eventually turning into a beer stand in 2013. It now stocks an incredible 100 varieties of Belgian beer – an obsession of the owner, who fell in love with lambics and lagers during a working holiday abroad and later worked at a Belgian beer bar in Tokyo. In addition to the Flemish thirst-quenchers – there’s at least one Belgian beer on tap at all times – you’ll get to choose from around 50 American and Japanese bottled beers and snacks including sausages and pickles. Worth a special mention are the beautiful brewers’ glasses, procured from breweries around the world to complete your sipping experience. The owner’s mother lords over the kitchen, cooking up heartier fare to complement the brews poured by her son.

à2-7-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Gyoenmae Station). 03 6380 1178. jipwine.com. Tue-Thu 5pm-11pm, Fri 5pm-12midnight, Sat 4pm-12midnight, Sun & hols 4pm-10pm, closed Mon (except for holidays).

à 11-10 Shinsencho, Shibuya (Shinsen Station). 03 3461 3025. hiranoya1907.com. 5.30pm-11pm, closed Sun & hols, 3rd Sat of the month. Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

JIP, SE-BON, FOOD AT HIRANOYA: KISA TOYOSHIMA. JOLLYS, DEGUCHIYA, HIRANOYA INTERIOR: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Jip Wine Bar & Wine Shop

Located near the verdant loveliness of Shinjuku Gyoen park, Jip specialises in domestic wine. In fact, the store-bar is a pioneer in the field, having opened in 2010 – a time when there were only a handful of vineyards in Japan. They now stock a hand-picked selection of bottles from more than 80 wineries across the country, from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south. Bottles can be bought at the store and drunk at the counter, although you’ll need to pay a ¥1,800 corkage fee per bottle. The appetiser menu lists everything from nuts to carpaccio and a selection of refined Japanese dishes, most available for well under ¥1,000 per plate. You can also pick from a lineup of at least 20 wines by the glass (all ¥500), including reds, whites, rosés and sparkling wines. Originally built as a live music venue, the building also hosts orchestral performances from time to time.

Jollys Ebisu

A venerable liquor store with nearly 100 years of history, Jollys sits on Meiji-dori and is even more of a standout after last year’s top to toe renovation. Now composed of a shop, a wood-trimmed counter and a basement music studio, it’s a popular spot with backpackers and local office workers alike. All bottles available in the store can be tasted at the bar, which also serves up food including hot dogs and spam musubi rice rolls. Look out for guest craft beers from American breweries, including Lagunitas and Lost Coast. Jolly indeed. à 3-15-12 Higashi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 3400 1029. 2pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols.

Kaku-Uchi Se-Bon

Opened in 2011 in Monzen-Nakacho, a neighbourhood packed with comfy watering holes, Se-Bon occupies a renovated warehouse that feels like Tokyo’s best kept secret. In summer the floor-to-ceiling shutters are thrown open to let the light in, while in winter they are closed down to create the cosiest of atmospheres. The drink selection starts and ends with sake: Se-Bon’s owner keeps regulars happily on their toes with a rotating lineup of high-quality, hard-to-find bottles from the likes of Jikon and Hanaabi, all priced so that three glasses will set you back less than ¥2,000. A single glass can be had for under ¥500, while appetisers – including smoked duck, steamed dumplings and shiokara (salted and fermented seafood) – go for a wallet-friendly ¥260. Bringing your own food is allowed as well, although you’ll need to pay a small fee before digging in. Se-Bon is a laidback joint where you’re expected to strike up conversation with fellow drinkers and make new boozy discoveries. Two other shops of the same name can be found in Toyosu and Morishita. à 2-4-5 Botan, Koto (Monzen-Nakacho Station). 03 5245 2977. 4.30pm-8pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife

Shibuya’s best DJ bars Whether you’re into techno, house or jazz, Shibuya’s DJ bars provide the party – every day of the week. By Kunihiro Miki and Mari Hiratsuka

IF YOUR IDEA OF a good night out involves a

drink, good music and perhaps a little dance, so-called DJ bars are your best bet. Smaller than full-on clubs, they’re comfy spots for whiling away the evening in style. Shibuya has a particularly impressive concentration of these little gems, so we’ve rounded up our faves here. The Room

sound system as one of the finest in town – hear it for yourself on the weekend, when up-and-coming locals usually take charge of proceedings.

Owned by songwriter and DJ Tomoaki Nakamura, Bar Music plays everything from jazz to Brazilian beats. Order an Espresso Cooler, made with coﬀee beans from Nakamura’s native Hiroshima, sit back and soak in the eclectic tunes. Consider browsing the myriad of records – if you find that one album tickles your fancy you’ll be able to buy it on the spot. à 5F, 1-6-7 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 6416 3307. tinyurl.com/ TOTbarmusic. 7pm-12midnight (Sun from 4pm, Fri until late).

à B1F, 1-13-15 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 6423 0644. tinyurl.com/ TOTkoara1. Mon-Thu 9pm-5am, Fri, Sat 9pm-6am, closed Sun.

NIGHT CLUB TRUMP TOKYO

Opened in December 2016, Trump Tokyo (not to be confused with either fellow Shibuya club Trump Room nor any establishment owned by the US president) sits on a small street lined with restaurants and not far from the Mark City shopping complex. Enter through the inconspicuous door and you’ll find yourself in a luxuriously kitschy room filled with antique chandeliers and mirrors in which the assembled crowds can admire the shapes they are throwing.

Bar Music

CAFÉ APRES-MIDI

Not many places in this fast-changing bit of town can lay claim to being a Shibuya golden oldie, but Café Apres-Midi can. Opened during the area’s original café boom in the late ’90s, it’s owned by Toru Hashimoto, a DJ known for his free spirit and expansive selection of CDs. An evening in his company involves kicking back with a glass of wine or a cocktail while listening to everything from house to hard rock.

à Tosei Bldg B1F, 1-6-5 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. 03 3461 1225. tinyurl.com/TOTtrump. Mon-Thu 8pm-4am, Fri & Sat 8pm-5am, closed Sun.

Café Apres-Midi

THE ROOM

à Inter Bldg II 5F, 1-9-11 Jinnan, Shibuya. 03 5428 5121. tinyurl.com/TOTapres. 11.30am-11.30pm (Fri until 1.30am, Tue, Wed until 7pm), closed Mon.

The Room is well hidden, so look for a red street light poking out from the basement. Owned by members of Kyoto Jazz Massive, it’s a small venue split in two: one half is a concrete-walled bar, the other a near pitchblack dancefloor. The flavour is usually house, jazz, crossover or breakbeats. Tokyo’s DJ royalty sometimes come here to try out new sets – much to the delight of the clientele.

KOARA

This DJ bar in the backstreets of Jinnan is known for hosting the occasional secret set from big-name spinners. No matter who is playing to the small dance floor, 20 is a crowd here, meaning more enthusiastic foot tapping and less aggressive booty-shaking. The capital’s audiophiles praise Koara’s Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

à Daihachi Tohto Bldg B1F, 15-19 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya. 03 3461 7167. tinyurl.com/TOTroom.

Trump Tokyo

TRUMP TOKYO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

BAR MUSIC

Promotional feature

ROBOT ROUNDS LOCAL INSIGHT

Pay a visit to the world-famous Robot Restaurant. By Kaila Imada

BE PREPARED TO go into absolute sensory overload at Shinjuku’s Robot Restaurant. Filled with powerful drumming, electrifying sparks and glittering sequins on just about everything, this is one show experience that you’ll only find in Japan. Situated down the lively streets of Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district, the restaurant (it’s more like a theatre, really, people come here for the spectacle, not the food) has been wowing visitors for an impressive five years and counting. Whether you’re thinking of going with friends or bringing your kids along, the robot base is the perfect place to start your city adventure.

BLING BLING BLING

There’s no limit to the volume of glitz and glam you’ll find at the Robot Restaurant. From the mesmerising lounge room, dizzying hallways and blingedout toilets to sparkling costumes

and stunning floats moving in and out throughout the show, there’s never a dull moment. It’s a wonder how each performer, be they human or mechanical, struts around with exact precision – think feather-clad showgirls riding crazy robo-floats and armour-covered horses to daruma dolls fixed with drums. It’s dizzying, random fun.

BATTLE BOTS

There’s nothing more entertaining than a fierce bout between larger-than-life robots. The showdown between the evil bots from another universe and the gigantic jungle robo-creatures will have you on the edge of your seat. If you’re shy and sat in the front row it’s best to lean back – the robots tend to get up close and personal with the audience.

CONSISTENT EVOLUTION

Time and time again, the Robot Restaurant continues to impress

visitors from far and wide. There’s something for everyone at the show, whether you’re into sparkling fashion, flashing sushi floats or robots rocking out to old-school Michael Jackson tunes and YMCA. Even if you’ve been to the show before, it doesn’t hurt to check it out again as it changes up every few months with new surprises in store. Curious yet? You’ll just have to experience it for yourself to find out what it’s really about.

HOW TO BOOK: Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily,

starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am and Bring the 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food and discount coupon drinks. Note that the schedule might change due to on page 57 with you maintenance. to Robot Restaurant Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku and get ¥1,000 off (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. your bill. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily.

OPEN TOKYO

Flower power One small Sendagaya café is making big waves with its unique employment policy. By Yukako Izumi

MAY 2017 SAW flower shop and

café Lorans Harajuku open on a corner in the none-more-hip Sendagaya-Kitasando area. But this upstart is not cut from the same cloth as its numerous hipster neighbours: decorated with lush plants, it specialises in smoothies, veg-heavy lunches and vibrant flowers, all sold and served by people with mental illnesses and disorders. Lorans is the passion project of Mizuki Fukuju, an energetic 28-year-old who currently employs around 20 people. She says her aim is to pay all of her disabled employees a monthly salary of at least ¥130,000 – above the national average for workers with special needs. Such staff members at Lorans currently work from 20 to 30 hours every week, cooking, mixing smoothies, waiting tables and making bouquets. Despite her tender years, Fukuju is no newcomer to the entrepreneurship game: having opened her first flower shop at the age of 23, she had experience employing people with disabilities before opening Lorans, her third business and first café in the city centre.

with mental disabilities,’ she notes. Fukuju also emphasises the importance of tailoring tasks to individuals’ strengths. ‘While many of my employees aren’t very good at multi-tasking, they work highly efficiently when given a single task to focus on,’ she says. ‘They’re also very good at picking up on customers’ feelings and understanding their needs.’ When it comes to working in Japan, most people with disabilities are only offered positions at welfare facilities or simple tasks at companies that pledge to employ a set number of special needs staff. But such work

Her interest in a proactive employment policy dates back to a visit to a special school for the disabled, where she learned that only around 15 percent of Japanese people with mental disabilities ever find a job. ‘That realisation stayed with me, and later connected with my desire to work with flowers and employ people with disabilities,’ says Fukuju. Some of the employees at Lorans say they never thought of being able to work at a flower shop and many have worked with Fukuju longer than with any other employer. ‘Maybe it’s the flowers, but here they can stay calm and continue working – a rarity for people

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

PHOTOS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

‘Many customers have told me they didn’t even realise they were being served by people with mental disabilities’ 60

is rarely considered meaningful by the people doing it and has little impact on social attitudes. That’s why Lorans and places like it can make a difference – by demonstrating that flower shop clerks and baristas with disabilities are, in the end, just like any other flower shop clerks and baristas. ‘Many customers have told me they didn’t even realise they were being served by people with mental disabilities,’ says Fukuju. Sure sounds like progress is already being made. à 3-54-15 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Kitasando Station). 03 6434 0607. tinyurl.com/TOTlorans. Daily 11am-7pm.

Made in Japan

Film

Matt Schley rounds up the homegrown movies you shouldn’t miss this autumn, including mob dramas, whaling docs and the return of everyone’s favourite radioactive reptile… à In cinemas from October 7

A Whale of a Tale

GODZILLA: PLANET OF THE MONSTERS

Last year’s ‘Shin Godzilla’ was a smash hit, so it’s no surprise to see Godzilla stomping his way into theatres again. There’s a twist, though: ‘Godzilla: Planet of the Monsters’, the thirtieth film in the franchise, will be its first to take animated form. Produced by CG-specialising studio Polygon Pictures (which brought us the excellent ‘Ajin’ series), ‘Planet of the Monsters’, the first film in a planned trilogy, takes place 20,000 years in the future when the human race, after many a millennia spent exiled in outer space, decides to return to and retake Earth. If the Big G will let them, that is. Written by acclaimed anime screenwriter Gen Urobuchi (‘Psycho-Pass’), ‘Planet of the Monsters’ is likely to take the franchise in an entirely new direction.

A WHALE OF A TALE

à In cinemas from November 17

Focusing on the once quiet seaside village of Taiji in Wakayama prefecture, ‘A Whale of a Tale’ is a powerful look at that small community’s now infamous dolphin-hunting practice. Directed and produced by Megumi Sasaki (‘Herb & Dorothy’), a Sapporo-born, New York-based filmmaker who spent six years getting her head around the topic, it explores how Taiji became a worldwide synonym for animal abuse after Louie Psihoyos’s ‘The Cove’ won an Oscar for Best Documentary in 2009. Sasaki set out to hear all sides of the story, interviewing the Sea Shepherd activists who travel to Taiji from across the world to protest the hunt, the fishermen and other townspeople just trying to go about their business, and several key characters on the sidelines of the controversy. The result is a multifaceted tale that blends interpersonal drama, political analysis and moments of surprising comedy, challenging the viewer to ponder

Outrage Coda

if co-existence is possible in the face of such conflicting opinions and extreme attitudes.

duties, Takeshi once again stars as Otomo, a seriously, uh, outraged yakuza set on revenge. Industry vets including Toshiyuki Nishida, Nao Omori, Pierre Taki, Yutaka Matsushige and Ren Osugi round out the cast of n’er-do-wells. ‘Coda’ promises more of the betrayal, manipulation, double-crossing and Kitano’s trademark ultraviolence of the first two films. And, perhaps, a bit of closure for the 70-year-old filmmaker’s first trilogy.

à In cinemas now

OUTRAGE CODA

The one-man filmmaking machine known variously as Beat Takeshi or Takeshi Kitano, depending whether he’s respectively in front of or behind the camera, is back with the third and final film in his epic ‘Outrage’ mafia trilogy. Aside from handling directorial

While ‘Planet of the Monsters’ represents a beloved live-action franchise going anime, here’s the opposite: ‘Fullmetal Alchemist’ started life in 2001 as a manga before being adapted into multiple anime series and movies – and now it’s hitting screens as a live-action film. ‘Fullmetal Alchemist’ tells the tale of two young alchemists who attempt to resurrect their dead mother, with disastrous results: one loses a leg and another his entire body, forcing his soul into a suit of armour. To pull this character oﬀ, the film will reportedly employ CG techniques never before used in the Japanese film industry. While liveaction manga adaptations often fall flat, ‘Alchemist’ is in the hands of Fumihiko Sori, who helmed the excellent live-action version of Taiyo Matsumoto’s ‘Ping Pong’, so our hopes are high. à In cinemas from December 1 October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Sport The great indoors DOUBLE BLUE

The only exclusively squashfocused facility in Tokyo, Double Blue opened this summer just oﬀ the main shopping street in Hiroo. Run by Med Support Systems, a company in the preventive medicine field that also owns the super-exclusive Esquisse restaurant in Ginza, it stands out with deep-blue walls and twin blue courts. They’re currently oﬀering free racket and protective glasses rentals for anyone who signs up to play – a ten-minute session costs ¥580 per court (¥480 on weekdays between 10am and 6pm), no other fees are required and online bookings are taken. Just note that black balls and shoes with black soles aren’t allowed (white balls are sold at the counter). Since playing squash is an easy way to burn a lot of calories in a short time, Double Blue is the ideal autumn workout destination.

ROCKY BOULDERING GYM SHINAGAWA

TOKYO DOME ROLLER SKATE ARENA

Bouldering – aka indoor rock climbing – requires both brains and brawn. Participants must plan the right route up an artificial cliﬀ before pulling themselves up to the summit. One of the biggest bouldering gyms in Tokyo is located in the corner of a container terminal half an hour’s walk from Shinagawa Station, but is certainly worth the trek – or the Shinagawa Pier bus ride from the station. Rocky features two areas with 13 long and highly varied walls, allowing climbers of all skill levels to find the route they want. The 30-minute ‘experience package’, available only on weekdays and without registration, includes shoes and chalk for a grand total of ¥1,500 – perfect for beginners.

T4 TOKYO

Ping pong, table tennis, whiff whaff – whatever you call it, fans of tiny tennis will love T4 Tokyo. This multifaceted complex opened in June 2017 complete with a restaurant, bar and shops, all of which are ping pongcentric. The shop sells gear from Victas, the preferred brand of the Japanese national men’s table tennis team, there’s a table tennis school staffed by professional players and, of course, enough tables to play to your batting heart’s delight. At in-house eatery The Rally Table you can play a quick round while enjoying drinks and desserts including a citrus sour complete with kumquats that look suspiciously like ping pong balls, and some racket-shaped ice cream. Of course the service is excellent.

à Matsuoka Shinagawa Futo Bldg 103, 5-4-38 Konan, Minato (Shinagawa, Tennozu Isle stations). 03 6712 9538. rockyclimbing.com. Daily 10am-11pm.

à 5-12-2 Hiroo, Shibuya (Hiroo Station). www. doublebluesq.com. Mon-Fri 10am-9.20pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-6pm. Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

à 1-12-16 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6452 5743. t-4.jp/tokyo. Restaurant and bar 11am-11pm, shops 11am-8pm, closed Tue.

If you’re aiming to charm your date on ice skates at one of Tokyo’s pop-up rinks this winter, best brush up your skills at a roller rink first. Located next to popular hot spring facility Spa LaQua and the Tokyo Dome baseball stadium, this spot has both a main arena with an oval rink and a smaller practice area. Although only oﬀered in Japanese, free guidance and basic lessons are provided by the friendly staﬀ, helping beginners stay on their feet. Equipped with a DJ booth, the venue occasionally hosts parties and other events. Admission starts at ¥1,200 for two hours on weekdays; you can either bring your own skates or rent a pair for ¥500. à Tokyo Dome City Yellow Bldg 4F, 1-3 Koraku, Bunkyo (Suidobashi Station). 03 3817 6196. www. tokyo-dome.co.jp/roller. Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat 10am-10pm, Sun & hols 10am-9pm.

T4 TOKYO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. DOUBLE BLUE, TOKYO DOME ROLLER SKATE ARENA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

From the newest table tennis centre in town to a beginner-friendly roller skate rink, these are the top Tokyo spots for working out whatever the weather. By Mari Hiratsuka

LGBT A big night out Kosuke Shimizu points the way to the top LGBT nights at Tokyo’s clubs only allowed but encouraged. While never forgetting to show oﬀ, the drag queens also keep an eye out for any misdemeanours, making this party a safe one to attend even for shy types. Squeeze into cosplay and get a ¥2,000 discount on the cover charge.

HOME TO SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, one of the world’s largest LGBT neighbourhoods, Tokyo has an excellent scene for those looking to stay up all night. In addition to the plentiful selection in Ni-chome, regular gay-friendly parties are taking over some of the capital’s biggest clubs. These are three of our favourite happenings, all of which are very welcoming to newcomers.

à Tokyo Kinema Club, 1-1-14 Negishi, Taito (Uguisudani Station). From 12midnight. ¥5,000, ¥3,000 in costume. ameblo.jp/department-h.

AISOTOPE LOUNGE

SHANGRI-LA

One of the top gay nights in Asia and definitely the greatest one in Japan, Shangri-La has been going strong since Christmas Eve 2002. Taking place at iconic waterfront mega-club AgeHa out in Shin-Kiba, it sees local spinning stars play through the night while drag queens and go-go boys light up the many floors – including the main room, where ‘onee house’ (‘gay house’, a genre born in Tokyo) roars from

‘More irregular happenings include an anime night and an “underwear only” extravaganza’

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

DEPARTMENT H 2099

the speakers, a poolside floor and a steamy men-only area. Shangri-La is held five times annually, with the next two parties scheduled for October 14 and December 16. The night celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, so look out for even more star-studded lineups than usual. Take the shuttle from Shinjuku for a convenient trip, but note that the bus tends to get extremely crowded. à AgeHa, 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Koto (Shin-Kiba Station). From 11pm. ¥4,000, non-Japanese ¥3,000, 29 and under ¥2,500. w.ageha.com/gn.

DEPARTMENT H 2099

One of Tokyo’s most venerable fetish parties, the monthly Department H takes place at Uguisudani’s Tokyo Kinema Club, a former cabaret theatre and a retro reminder of the smoky days of Showa. Not a gay party per se, it always gathers a diverse crowd of latex-clad revellers who assemble for strip shows, drag performances by some of Tokyo’s best-known cross-dressers, and plenty of good-natured boozing – bringing your own drinks is not

Although it hasn’t seen any mega-events over the past two years or so, Ni-chome has so many bars and clubs that it always feels like there’s a party going on somewhere. Aisotope Lounge is arguably the area’s hub. It hosts a diverse range of events, including the drag queencentric Queen’s Lounge on Wednesdays and Thursdays and a Ladies’ Night on the second and third Saturday of the month. More irregular happenings include an anime night and an ‘underwear only’ extravaganza. See full details for these on the club’s website. à 2-12-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). aliving.net.

Lost in Harajuku? Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box

AS THE SHOPPING DISTRICT that symbolises Japanese pop culture,

Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist information centre that’s right in the heart of the area. To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing information for the Shibuya area, including Harajuku. It also provides essential information and services such as courier assistance, a foreign currency exchange machine, and free wi-fi. But that’s not all: aiming to serve as an entertainment centre in itself, it’s a place where overseas visitors can experience J-pop culture through activities such as trying on kimono. There’s also a souvenir shop where you can pick up Mt Fuji artwork and quirky items such as sushi socks and accessories with popular Harajuku motifs.

à3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily 10am-6pm.

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre

You can now get your copy of Time Out Tokyo magazine delivered – we ship internationally too! Please visit time-outtokyo.myshopify. com.

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of these venues: Stations: Select Toei Subway stations, including Shinjuku and Roppongi Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport (International Terminal) Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya and more shops

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Cafe & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) All British Pub Hub locations in Tokyo and more restaurants

TIME OUT READERS will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to oﬀer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ edition and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come out with maps for nearly all the top areas including Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza.

All of these publications, along with issues of our magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s tourist information centre, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of Shibuya Station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips, and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact pamphlet, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts. We’ve also recently expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Shimane or the temples of Nikko – both make for a great mini getaway.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Prince Park Tower Tokyo and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp. October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels On the right tracks Japan’s railways are famed as the fastest in the world, but there’s more to the country’s tracks than speed. A new generation of sightseeing trains are offering the opportunity to take in an art exhibition, sip sake or feast on sushi all while taking in beautiful landscapes. Noriko Maniwa jumps onboard A WORLD AWAY FROM the maddeningly overcrowded commuter carriages of Tokyo, Japan’s

many sightseeing trains leisurely crisscross the country, providing an alternative way of experiencing different regions’ cultures and flavours. The beautiful Sea of Japan side of the country, still too often neglected by travellers, has a particularly impressive selection of these trains. They are becoming increasingly popular among domestic tourists but are still all but undiscovered by visitors from abroad. Here are our five favourites, from a high-speed art museum to one that combines super-fresh sushi with majestic ocean views.

FOR THE ART LOVER: GENBI SHINKANSEN A bullet train designed specifically for the purpose of allowing passengers to enjoy cutting-edge Japanese contemporary art, the Genbi Shinkansen features diﬀerent artworks in every carriage, a kids’ room where children can learn more about art, and even a slick café. After the one-hour trip between Echigo-Yuzawa and Niigata stations, make sure to check out the exterior of the train, covered in a bold depiction of Niigata’s famous Nagaoka fireworks as captured by photographer Mika Ninagawa. Operated by: JR East, Joetsu Shinkansen Route: between Echigo-Yuzawa and Niigata www.jreast.co.jp/genbi

This boozy train was inspired by the renowned sake of Niigata, one of Japan’s most important rice-producing regions. At the in-train bar, passengers can sip on a selection of local sake and enjoy a variety of side dishes created with the finest local ingredients. The train also hosts pop-up tastings by Niigata breweries, talks, jazz performances and other events. There are three routes to choose from, so you can combine sipping with views over the majestic Sea of Japan on your way out, and return via the region’s lush mountains and valleys. You’ll also have the chance to strike up conversation with brewers over a tipple. It all adds up to an enjoyably tipsy trip only possible on the Koshino Shu*Kura. Operated by: JR East Route: three routes in total, including between Joetsumyoko and Echigo-Yuzawa www.jreast.co.jp/railway/joyful/shukura.html

GENBI SHINKANSEN: MIKA NINAGAWA. COURTESY OF TOMIO KOYAMA GALLERY

FOR THE SAKE-SIPPER: KOSHINO SHU*KURA

FOR THE SUSHI CONNOISSEUR: BELLES MONTAGNES ET MER FOR THE PATIENT LUXURY LOVER: MIZUKAZE

Fondly referred to simply as Belles Monta, this retro train is perfect for gazing at dramatic coastal scenery while enjoying the best of the local seafood. Inside the moss green carriages the window frames are decorated like a picture frame and the hanging straps are crafted to resemble copperware from nearby Takaoka, a city renowned for its manufacturing legacy. But what really stands out here is the sushi display case found at the end of the train. A chef turns seafood caught fresh from Toyama Bay into sushi right before your eyes. Those of you tired of selfies may want to ask one of the friendly conductors to snap a picture of you on the platform.

A ten-car train with a maximum capacity of 34 passengers, the Mizukaze is a moving luxury hotel. With only six cars housing guest rooms, including suites that span an entire carriage, an all-inclusive restaurant and lounge, it’s the most exclusive train you’ll find, well, anywhere. Choose either the Sanyo route, which traverses historic regions including Kurashiki and Iwakuni by the seas separating Japan’s main island from smaller Shikoku, or the Sanin route which runs along the Sea of Japan coast through Tottori and Izumo. Both provide an in-depth, guided look at the nature and culture of each area you pass through, with special Mizukaze buses awaiting passengers at several stations, ready to ferry travellers to highlights inaccessible by train. The only catch is that you’ll need to wait for quite a while after making a booking: the Mizukaze is currently sold out all the way to February 2018.

Operated by: JR West, Himi/Johana lines Route: between Himi, Takaoka and Johana www.jr-odekake.net/navi/kankou/berumonta

Operated by: JR West, Sanin Main Line Route: between Kyoto/Osaka and Shimonoseki twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp

FOR THE FANTASY FAN: OKUIZUMO OROCHI-GO

Operated by: JR West, Kisuki Line Route: between Izumo and Bingo-Ochiai www.hiikawa-summit.info/orochi

JUNICHI TAKAHASHI

The legend of Yamata no Orochi tells the tale of banished Shinto god Susanoo, who slays the eight-forked serpent Yamata no Orochi and thus acquires the sacred Kusanagi sword, one of Japan’s three mythical imperial trophies. Said story takes place in the wilds of Okuizumo, which are best seen from the window of this old-school ‘trolley train’. Although not quite as epic as in the legend, the area is culturally intriguing, with the iron manufacturing settlements dotting the landscape recalling Hayao Miyazaki’s anime masterpiece ‘Princess Mononoke’. Bento vendors on the train peddle local specialities including grilled mackerel ‘oshizushi’ (a type of rectangular sushi) and Nitagyu beef, plus pudding and cheese made from Kisugi milk produced along the railway.

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

The expert’s guide to jet lag

Matthew Lee, international restaurant critic, recommends HEALTHY FOOD Your prescription: superfood smoothies at the Shangri-La Hotel When he lands with a woozy feeling from a long-haul flight, international food critic Matthew Lee makes sure he ingests something healthy before passing out. Smoothies are a great option, nutritious enough to recharge you, but light enough to not interrupt a night’s sleep. The Shangri-La’s Lobby Lounge oﬀers three great varieties, all packed with an abundance of organic ingredients. Each smoothie boasts its own unique benefits: the aloe and pineapple one is filled with antioxidants, the red beet, berry and ginger smoothie promotes blood circulation and apparently the Spirulina helps recovery from stress. The 400ml smoothies are available for both drink-in (¥1,700) and to go (¥2,200), so you can recharge yourself at any time, anywhere. àtinyurl.com/TOTshangrila

How do you go about beating jet lag? Mayumi Koyama checks in with six frequent fliers for their remedies and prescribes the right Tokyo hotel for each

Marcus Webb, Time Out Tokyo’s consulting editor, recommends

A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP

Your prescription: the Heavenly Bed at the Westin Our consultant editor splits his time between London and Tokyo and after each 12-hour hop wants nothing more than to dive into a comfortable bed and sleep it oﬀ. In Tokyo that means making for the Westin’s original ‘Heavenly Beds’, first introduced in 1999 and still one of the hotel’s most vaunted features. Found in every Westin room, these beds are designed especially for restorative sleep and feature top-of-theline linens, including some of the comfiest pillows you’ll ever lay your head on. Peaceful sleep has never come easier. àtinyurl.com/westin-bed Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

Travel & Hotels

Ili Saarinen, Time Out Tokyo’s editor, recommends A NICE SWEATY WORKOUT Your prescription: the fitness centre at the Mandarin Oriental Born in Finland, Ili makes the trip back to the motherland every year, but short holidays mean he can’t aﬀord to lose a day or two to jet lag. His solution? Jogging. But pounding pavements at all hours can be a bit challenging in an unfamiliar city. Instead head to a gym with splendid city views, such as the fitness centre at the Mandarin Oriental in Nihonbashi. Located on the hotel’s 38th floor, the gym’s cardio machines all face the floor-to-ceiling windows, making you feel like you’re running in the sky above the capital. From working out with state-of-the-art machines to stretching your limbs with a private pilates session, there are plenty of fitness options to choose from.

Alex Plim, Time Out International’s Head of Global Content, recommends A HOT BATH

àtinyurl.com/MOT-fitness

Your prescription: the hot spring baths at Hoshinoya Alex Plim hops around the world like Phileas Fogg on an even tighter schedule. Whenever he touches down he opts for a long soak, but in Tokyo that means more than hitting the tub in your room. Set in central Otemachi, Hoshinoya Tokyo is one of the most cutting-edge ryokan inns in Japan and its attached onsen is a delight. This state-of-the-art soak station draws on the area’s first natural hot spring, tapped in 2014, siphoning the spring water all the way up to the rooftop for your communal alfresco bathing pleasure. àtinyurl.com/hoshinoya-onsen

Akiko Toya, Executive Vice President at Time Out Tokyo, recommends

BATHING IN THE SUN

Your prescription: Hilton Tokyo Odaiba Jet lag turns your body clock upside down and confuses your senses to think it’s time to wake up at 3am. As Akiko knows, the ideal natural remedy is taking in plenty of sunshine – something that helps you adjust to the local time. Several hotels in Odaiba boast great views of Tokyo’s popular waterfront area, but only the Hilton has private balconies attached to every room. Kick back and take in the rays – and the gentle sea breeze – while admiring the Rainbow Bridge and the capital’s skyline beyond. àtinyurl.com/hilton-odaiba

Carl Mitchell, flight attendant, recommends A FULL-BODY MASSAGE Your prescription: AO Spa & Club at the Andaz When flying is your job, you can’t aﬀord any downtime. Carl’s answer is a rub down to ease those tired muscles. The AO Spa & Club at Andaz Tokyo in Toranomon Hills lets you customise your very own treatment. Depending on your preferences, including favourite season, taste in music, treatment goals and fatigue level, therapists will produce original body scrubs by blending a range of herbs and oils to create exclusive treatments. The jet lagfocused specials include ‘Around the world’ for flights of ten hours or longer, ‘Long-haul’ for five to ten hours and ‘Short-haul’ for four hours or shorter. àtinyurl.com/andaz-spa

October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Getting Around

On the road How to navigate Japan’s long-distance bus systems. By Kirsty Bouwers

other than that you can pretty much ride whenever you want within two months of your first journey. All you need to do is not be Japanese: the deal is only available to those with a foreign passport, including residents.

SURE, A SHINKANSEN may be faster, but if you’re pinching pennies, both daytime and overnight highway (long-distance) buses are ideal for travelling around Japan. Here are some of the best ones, all of which oﬀer booking services and information in English.

àwillerexpress.com/st/3/en/pc/buspass/ index.php?aid=184

WILLER EXPRESS

JR BUSES

One of the most popular lowcost bus companies out there, Willer Express do great deals on overnight buses. They’re also the purveyors of the Japan Bus Pass, a little beauty which lets you ride to your heart’s content for three, five or seven days. You can use it on non-consecutive days, meaning that you can get all the way from Tokyo to Hiroshima and back for a measly ¥10,000 (on weekdays) and still have an extra day or night on a bus to spare. A one-way shinkansen ticket would be double that. There are some blackout dates (Golden Week and the Obon holidays in August), but Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

KANTO BUS

If you want to take a bus to save time and avoid paying for a night’s accommodation but don’t want to sacrifice the creature comforts, Kanto Bus has an option for you. Their Tokyo-Osaka buses boast private cubicles, each including a seat that folds down to a flat bed, a large foldaway table and other essentials to get you through the night for ¥20,000 one way. There’s even a powder room in the back. We’re pretty sure you’d be able to get a hotel room for less than that, but not one that transports you across the country. Kanto’s other routes are more reasonably priced (from around ¥6,000 one-way on weekdays) and can take you to to some gorgeous spots including Kyoto, Nara and Okayama – albeit without those luxurious little cubicles.

Yes, it may stand for Japan Railways, but JR has its own fleet of highway buses too. Split into regional companies (JR Kanto, JR Tohoku and so on), they oﬀer services up, down and across the entire country. Although JR buses are a bit pricier than the other companies listed here, their ubiquitousness means that you’re very likely to find one that will get you to your final destination. Just note that you may need to change to a regional carrier halfway through if you’re trying to get to the furthest corner of Kyushu or Hokkaido from Tokyo.

àwww.kanto-bus.co.jp/english

KINTETSU BUS

This Osaka-based company is great mainly for its discount

àJR Kanto Bus: www.jrbuskanto.co.jp

service options between Kansai and Kanto, including trips from Osaka or Kyoto to Tokyo for a laughably cheap ¥4,000 one way (mainly on weekdays). Their other routes have similar prices to those of other operators, including Kanto Bus, but if you’ve ended up in Kansai and are looking to travel back to the capital or further afield, Kintetsu is a good option. àwww.kintetsu-bus.co.jp/en/express/index.html

JAPAN BUS ONLINE

A website rather than a bus company, Japan Bus Online is an English-language hub for those looking to book bus rides regardless of operator. Simply search for your preferred route and the website will spit out the available options; you’ll then be able to pay for your chosen tickets by credit card. Note that they have a segregated gender policy: if you’re travelling in a mixed-gender group, this means you might not end up sitting right next to each other. àhttps://japanbusonline.com

Getting Around

Going Goingunderground? underground? Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Getting Around 71 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo 77

Getting Around

TOKYO’S BEST

Places for Instagram snaps From the classics to the hidden gems, here are the best spots in town to up your Instagram game. By Kaila Imada

SHINJUKU OMOIDE YOKOCHO

Not only a great place to grab a drink and a few snacks, this famed bundle of little alleyways hidden oﬀ the main streets of Shinjuku is also a popular spot for photographers looking to capture that authentic shot of Tokyo’s streetlife. What’s the appeal? Maybe it’s the mix of customers hustling through after work, or the smoke from the yakitori joints wafting through the streets. Either way, it makes for an essential Tokyo picture.

ROPPONGI HILLS TOKYO CITY VIEW

There’s no better spot to capture sprawling views of the city than up on the roof of Roppongi Hills. Oﬀering spectacular eye candy, it lets you capture most of the city’s iconic sights, including Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree and even, on super-clear days, Mount Fuji.

RIKUGIEN

Thirteen floors of open-plan oﬃce space doesn’t scream ‘snap me!’, but what makes The Soho an Instagram hotspot is its colourful exterior and numerous doorways which makes the place look like a giant game of Tetris. Hot tip: catch it in the evening when it’s all lit up.

Nothing says zen quite like the peaceful surroundings of this beautiful Japanese garden. Rikugien’s scenery represents 88 miniature scenes from famous Japanese poems and features a central pond as well as a pretty little teahouse. Catch the weeping cherry blossoms in spring and the stunning foliage in autumn for the best photo opportunities. Hashtag with something about finding your inner selfie.

THE SOHO ODAIBA

TOKYU PLAZA OMOTESANDO HARAJUKU

A frenzy of mirrors, this mall entrance in the heart of Harajuku has become quite the popular photo op, tripping snappers out with its unique puzzle of reflections. Be aware: you might have to queue for your turn here.

MEIJI JINGU SAKE BARRELS

Although the towering gates of Meiji Jingu are a great draw, another special sight inside the spacious shrine grounds are the rows upon rows of ‘kazaridaru’ (decorative sake barrels) lining the walkway. So why are there so many? Every year, the barrels are donated by sake brewers from all over Japan as oﬀerings to the shrine deities at Meiji Jingu.

Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

RAINBOW BRIDGE

The city’s most famous bridge was built in 1993 over Tokyo Bay and is shaped like, you guessed it, a rainbow. The 798-metre long crossing connects Shibaura Pier with the Odaiba waterfront and makes for a stunning shot whether lit up in the evening or under a clear blue sky.

TOKYO TOWER

The Skytree may be taller, but good old Tokyo Tower is still the perfect spot to end your Instagram bonanza: there’s nothing more iconic in the capital than this glowing orange mast. Whether you’re around the tower during the day or night, up close or from afar, there’s nothing quite like getting an eyeful of Tokyo’s very own Eiﬀel Tower.

OMOIDE YOKOCHO: AGE_COX. THE SOHO: ITSDAVO. MEIJI JINGU: CLAREHM10. TOKYO CITY VIEW: HKIRAAAA. RIKUGIEN: RBOTTOMLESSLAKE. RAINBOW BRIDGE: TOSHIMASA0724. TOKYO TOWER, TOKYU PLAZA: KAILA IMADA

WE’RE NOT JUST SAYING this because we live here, but Tokyo is probably one of the most picturesque places in the world. From rooftop views and serene cafés to stunning shrines, there’s literally something on every corner to keep your Instagram followers envious. Here are the best of the best – make sure you tag #TimeOutTokyo to be featured on our Instagram page. Happy snapping!

Getting Around

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October-December, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

You can buy just about anything from a vending machine

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

By Kaila Imada and Matthew Lee IF THERE’S ONE country that knows how to do impersonal shopping properly, it’s Japan. With the highest per capita rate of vending machines in the world, it offers far, far more than your average press-and-go experience. Don’t expect to just see drinks and junk food – you’ll find almost all your human needs catered for, from piping hot soup to comic books, booze and umbrellas, all just a button away.

ALCOHOLIC AND NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS

When in need of an ice-cold drink in summer or a warming tea or coﬀee on a freezing cold day, take your pick and out rolls your choice at the perfect temperature. For those looking for something a little more stimulating, keep an eye out for sake and beer dispensers. Whoever thought of putting alcohol in a vending machine was clearly a thoughtful person; since these are of course open in the early hours of the morning, even the hardestworking of salarymen can pick up a welldeserved drink on the way home after a late night in the oﬃce.

BOOKS AND UMBRELLAS

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Incredible culinary variety can be found inside Japan’s vending machines. You can get everything from tomato sauce, tofu and corn chowder to dashi (fish-based broth) and natto (fermented soybeans). Of course, if that’s not up your alley, stick to the popcorn vending machines which serve up freshly popped kernels on demand. Once you’ve seen bread in a can (yes, honestly, it’s a real thing) you’ll begin wondering if there’s anything you can’t find in a vending machine.

Book vending machines are a boon if you want to find a good read without sneery bookshop staﬀ judging your taste in fiction. Most machines are mangaheavy and the books are generally in Japanese, but it could be a good way to practice if you’re learning the language. Alternatively they can double as a makeshift shelter should it start to rain. Although naturally you’re never too far from a vending machine selling umbrellas. Or earbuds. Or phone chargers. Or a small model train...

OODLES OF NOODLES If you live in Japan or are a repeat visitor to the country, you’ll probably know how a ‘hanko’ (personal seal) is more widely used than signatures when signing oﬀ on documents and other important paperwork. Hanko machines can usually be found at ¥100 shops or even your local Don Quijote discount store, and it’s a great souvenir for tourists if you can find your name or kanji characters with the right meaning. At some shrines you may see vending machines selling ‘omikuji’ or random fortunes written on strips of paper, predicting your future in areas such as love, health and business. Allow us to predict your future: it involves pressing buttons.

In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Available across Tokyo from January 2018

Winter in the big city

Your complete guide to staying warm, happy and well fed in Tokyo Time Out Tokyo October-December, 2017

ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA

Even Tsuta, the first ramen shop to earn a Michelin star, has a vending machine by its entrance. And it makes perfect sense. Simply pop in your money, pick what you want to eat, hand your ticket to the staﬀ behind the counter and in minutes your food will be served. However, if you want to take robo-ramen to the next stage you can cut out the human chefs completely – there are some machines that’ll do all the work for you. Instant ramen vending machines will disperse a hot bowl of noodles right from the machine. Michelin judges are gently advised to go elsewhere.

HANKO AND OMIKUJI