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SÃO PAULO THE BEST OF THE CITY | 町で最高

SÃO PAULO The best of the city

町で最高 ENGLISH

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A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE.

For him

RICARDO ALMEIDA VILEBREQUIN LOUIS VUITTON NESPRESSO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA VR

For her

A. NIEMEYER LOOL ALEXANDRE BIRMAN THELURE CHANEL JACK VARTANIAN

For all

GUCCI THE NORTH FACE TIFFANY & CO. LIVRARIA CULTURA ESTHER GIOBBI TOMMY HILFIGER

AND 300 OTHER STORES. IGUATEMISP.COM.BR

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

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MANHATTAN

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Fixtures GROUP A Brazil

Croatia

Mexico

Cameroon

Thu

12.06.2014

17:00

São Paulo

BRA

X

CRO

Fri

13.06.2014

13:00

Natal

MEX

X

CMR

Tue

17.06.2014

16:00

Fortaleza

BRA

X

MEX

Wed

18.06.2014

19:00

Manaus

CRO

X

CMR

Mon

23.06.2014

17:00

Brasília

CMR

X

BRA

Mon

23.06.2014

17:00

Belo Horizonte

CRO

X

MEX

GROUP B Spain

Netherlands

Chile

Australia

Fri

13.06.2014

16:00

Salvador

ESP

X

NED

Fri

13.06.2014

19:00

Cuiabá

CHI

X

AUS

Wed

18.06.2014

13:00

Porto Alegre

AUS

X

NED

Wed

18.06.2014

16:00

Rio de Janeiro

ESP

X

CHI

Mon

23.06.2014

13:00

Curitiba

AUS

X

ESP

Mon

23.06.2014

13:00

São Paulo

NED

X

CHI

GROUP C Colombia

Greece

Côte d’Ivoire

Japan

Sat

14.06.2014

13:00

Belo Horizonte

COL

X

GRE

Sat

14.06.2014

22:00

Recife

CIV

X

JPN

Thu

19.06.2014

13:00

Brasília

COL

X

CIV

Thu

19.06.2014

19:00

Natal

JPN

X

GRE

Tue

24.06.2014

17:00

Fortaleza

GRE

X

CIV

Tue

24.06.2014

17:00

Cuiabá

JPN

X

COL

GROUP D Uruguay

Costa Rica

England

Italy

Sat

14.06.2014

16:00

Fortaleza

URU

X

CRC

Sat

14.06.2014

19:00

Manaus

ENG

X

ITA

Thu

19.06.2014

16:00

São Paulo

URU

X

ENG

Fri

20.06.2014

13:00

Recife

ITA

X

CRC

Tue

24.06.2014

13:00

Belo Horizonte

CRC

X

ENG

Tue

24.06.2014

13:00

Natal

ITA

X

URU

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GROUP E Switzerland

Ecuador

France

Honduras

Sun

15.06.2014

13:00

Brasília

SUI

X

ECU

Sun

15.06.2014

16:00

Porto Alegre

FRA

X

HON

Fri

20.06.2014

16:00

Salvador

SUI

X

FRA

Fri

20.06.2014

19:00

Curitiba

HON

X

ECU

Wed

25.06.2014

17:00

Rio de Janeiro

ECU

X

FRA

Wed

25.06.2014

17:00

Manaus

HON

X

SUI

GROUP F Argentina

Bosnia & Herzegovina

Iran

Nigeria

Sun

15.06.2014

19:00

Rio de Janeiro

ARG

X

BIH

Mon

16.06.2014

16:00

Curitiba

IRN

X

NGA

Sat

21.06.2014

13:00

Belo Horizonte

ARG

X

IRN

Sat

21.06.2014

19:00

Cuiabá

NGA

X

BIH

Wed

25.06.2014

13:00

Salvador

BIH

X

IRN

Wed

25.06.2014

13:00

Porto Alegre

NGA

X

ARG

GROUP G Germany

Portugal

Ghana

United States

Mon

16.06.2014

13:00

Salvador

GER

X

POR

Mon

16.06.2014

19:00

Natal

GHA

X

USA

Sat

21.06.2014

16:00

Fortaleza

GER

X

GHA

Sun

22.06.2014

19:00

Manaus

USA

X

POR

Thu

26.06.2014

13:00

Brasília

POR

X

GHA

Thu

26.06.2014

13:00

Recife

USA

X

GER

GROUP H Belgium

Algeria

Russia

South Korea

Tue

17.06.2014

13:00

Belo Horizonte

BEL

X

ALG

Tue

17.06.2014

19:00

Cuiabá

RUS

X

KOR

Sun

22.06.2014

13:00

Rio de Janeiro

BEL

X

RUS

Sun

22.06.2014

16:00

Porto Alegre

KOR

X

ALG

Thu

26.06.2014

17:00

Curitiba

ALG

X

RUS

Thu

26.06.2014

17:00

São Paulo

KOR

X

BEL

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Fixtures ROUND OF 16 Sat 28.06.2014 13:00 Belo Horizonte 1º A 2º B Sat 28.06.2014 17:00 Rio de Janeiro

QUARTER-FINALS Fri 04.07.2014 17:00 Fortaleza 1º A or 2º B 1º C or 2º D

1º C 2º D Mon 30.06.2014 13:00 Brasília 1º E 2º F Mon 30.06.2014 13:00 Porto Alegre

Fri 04.07.2014 13:00 Rio de Janeiro 1º E or 2º F 1º G or 2º H

1º G 2º H Sun 29.06.2014 13:00 Fortaleza 1º B 2º A Sun 29.06.2014 17:00 Recife

Sat 05.07.2014 17:00 Salvador 1º B or 2º A 1º D or 2º C

1º D 2º C Tue 01.07.2014 13:00 São Paulo 1º F 2º E Tue 01.07.2014 17:00 Salvador

Sat 05.07.2014 13:00 Brasília 1º F or 2º E 1º H or 2º G

1º H 2º G

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SEMI-FINALS Tue 08.07.2014 17:00 Belo Horizonte Winner Quarter-final 1 Winner Quarter-final 2

FINAL Sun 13.07.2014 16:00 Rio de Janeiro Winner Semi-final 1 Winner Semi-final 2

Wed 09.07.2014 17:00 São Paulo

3rd PLACE

Winner Quarter-final 3

Sat 12.07.2014 17:00 Brasília

Winner Quarter-final 4

Loser Semi-final 1 Loser Semi-final 1

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DOUGLAS BAKER

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timeout.com.br This guide was created by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer, 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brazil. Tel +55 (11) 3071-3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Executive Editor Catherine Balston Editors Rafael Argemon, Fabiana Caso, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack, Christine Puleo Proofreaders Marina Monzillo, Karen Shapiro Listings Gracita Kerr Design Art Director Bia Gomes Designers Luciana Benatti, Marcella Franco Print Production Marcus Vinicius Lopes Advertising (11) 3071 3309 ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309 ext. 18 Marketing and New Business Director Virginia Castro Administration Finance Manager Sueli Maria da Silva

Contents

IN ENGLISH

48 hours in São Paulo

16

Football

19

Sightseeing

25

Food & Drink

39

Shopping

73

Essentials

81

Consulates

136

São Paulo Metrô map

138

If time is tight, follow the essential eating, drinking and sightseeing picks in our two-day, don’t-miss itinerary.

With a new stadium, three of Brazil’s best-known clubs, and a state-of-the-art museum, we zoom in on football in São Paulo.

Take in the city’s architectural icons, street art, parks, museums and cultural centres – and world-class art galleries.

Fine steakhouses, Italian and Japanese dining, and the full spectrum of Brazilian cuisine: all part of the city’s culinary DNA.

Devise your plan of attack for Brazil’s shopping capital, bursting with markets, street fairs and mega shopping malls.

Useful information to help visitors get here, get around and find their bearings in next to no time.

Time Out Brazil products are published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins

No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all. Printed in Brazil by IBEP Gráfica

Cover photography Shutterstock

RUA AUGUSTA

EDSON LOPES JR.

Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

Time Out São Paulo 15

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48 hours in São Paulo

In town for two days? Get up and at it with our list of essential eating, drinking and drifting

Y1 DA Head up for a stroll along Avenida Paulista, the most iconic of São Paulo’s avenues, with its ranks of skyscrapers bristling with antennae, plus a handful of surviving early-20thcentury mansions.

MASP & AVENIDA PAULISTA

SHUTTERSTOCK

START THE DAY paulistano-style at the counter of the nearest bakery, with coffee, fresh OJ and some pão na chapa (toasted, buttered bread). Bella Paulista (Rua Haddock Lobo 354, Consolação) is a reliably buzzy choice.

PARQUE DO IBIRAPUERA

Head over to Parque do Ibirapuera, SP’s answer to New York’s Central Park, where you can take your pick of the late architect Oscar Niemeyer’s imaginative constructions. Don’t miss the stunning Auditório Ibirapuera, with its wavy, red tongue jutting up skyward over the entrance.

BIA GOMES

Drift into the lush, verdant hideaway that is Parque Trianon (Rua Peixoto Gomide 949, Jardim Paulista), a lingering scrap of the Atlantic rainforest native to this part of Brazil.

Still on Paulista, across the road is the Museu de Arte de São Paulo – the MASP (Avenida Paulista 1578). Head in for a look at one of the best art collections in Latin America; or just marvel at the building – a concrete-and-glass box suspended on four scarlet columns. Ready for lunch? Uni does a great lunch buffet in the basement at MASP.

16 Time Out São Paulo

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48 HRS IN SP

PRESS IMAGE

CATCH THE SUNSET city view, cocktail in hand, at Skye bar (Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700, Jardim Paulista), on the roof of the slice-of-watermelon-shaped Hotel Unique.

SKYE BAR

MARCELLA FRANCO

And it’s on into Jardim Paulista for dinner. If you want to splash some cash on the finest Brazilian dining, try Brasil a Gosto, Tordesilhas, D.O.M. or Maní (See Restaurants).

Ó DO BOROGODÓ

Keep the Brazilian vibe going with a beat-filled night at the small, steamy samba club Ó do Borogodó (Rua Horácio Lane 21, Vila Madalena). Time Out São Paulo 17

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48 HRS IN SP GRAB A COFFEE in Vila Madalena before getting snap-happy in the winding alleyway that is Beco do Batman (Rua Gonçalo Afonso, Vila Madalena) – an unmissable open-air art gallery, featuring works by some of SP’s premiere street artists.

Y2 DA

EDIFÍCIO ITÁLIA

Don’t even think of missing lofty Edifício Itália (Avenida Ipiranga 344, República), where from the 41st floor, there’s an incomparable view of neverending São Paulo. Free entry 3-4pm Mon-Fri (R$30 at other times).

CAIO PIMENTA/SPTURIS

PRESS IMAGE

BECO DO BATMAN

Take the metrô from Vila Madalena to São Bento. From there, wind your way through the Rua 25 de Março street market to the Mercadão municipal market (Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé), for a lunch of oysters, pastéis (fried pastries), or Middle Eastern fare. Top it off with tropical fruit from one of the stalls.

At the Pinacoteca do Estado (Praça da Luz, Luz) – an art institution stunningly renovated in 1997 by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha – take a wander through one of the exhibitions. Adjacent Parque da Luz, the city’s oldest public park and a former botanical garden, is a leafy paradise, teeming with curious details and a cast of interesting characters.

PRESS IMAGE

Dinner time. How about some sushi in the Japanese heartland of Liberdade (Metrô 1, Liberdade)? Or a gourmet sandwich at the newly re-opened Riviera bar (Avenida Paulista 2584, Consolação), to the strains of live jazz?

CAOS - BAIXO AUGUSTA

Still with us? There’s only one way to go from here: downhill, in more ways than one. Head down Rua Augusta in the direction of Centro, into the impossibly trashy nightspot known as Baixo Augusta, and see where the night takes you.

18 Time Out São Paulo

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Football

PRESS IMAGE

SP & the biggest event of the year

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MUSEU DO FUTEBOL

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As the birthplace of football in Brazil, SP has a roster of teams that reflects one of the city’s defining features: its heady mix of cultures Be in no doubt that football reigns in Brazil, nor that São Paulo is the proud birthplace of the sport in the country, all thanks to one Charles Miller. The son of a Scottish father and a Brazilian mother, Miller brought two footballs, a pair of boots, a set of team kits and the all-important rule book back with him from a trip to the UK, and so the legend was born. The history books state that the first game ever to be played on Brazilian soil took place in Brás, the neighbourhood in which Miller was born, between workers from the Companhia de Gás de São Paulo (gas company) and the São Paulo Railway Company, where Miller worked. Instantly catching the players’ collective imaginations, over the next few years, the sport’s popularity spiralled among the working classes and those who lived along the floodplains of the numerous rivers and streams that cut through the city at the turn of the 20th century. It was during this period that São Paulo’s most famous clubs were established – clubs that would go on to shower the city in glory in the decades to come. Corinthians was founded in 1910 by Italian and Spanish

PALMEIRAS vs. CORINTHIANS

THE CITY’S TOP TEAMS CORINTHIANS

Legendary player: Sócrates Nickname: Timão Titles: Two-time FIFA Club World Cup champions (2000 and 2012) Home stadium: Arena Corinthians Did you know? In 2012, 30,000 fans travelled to Japan to cheer Corinthians on to victory in the FIFA Club World Cup.

immigrants in Bom Retiro; Palmeiras, originally named ‘Palestra Itália’, was set up in 1914 by Italian immigrants in Barra Funda; and Portuguesa, the second-tier club which usually finds itself mired in mid-table anonymity, was founded by SP’s Portuguese community in 1920, back where it all began in Brás. Football also quickly found its way to the attention of the well-to-do upper classes, and when the exclusive Clube Paulistano was founded in 1900 in Jardim América, it formed its own team, Clube Athletico Paulistano. Years later, in 1930, dissidents from that club went on to form São Paulo, one of the biggest modernday teams in the city, and indeed the country. Fast forward nearly 80 years – with World Cup fever building, and the Brazilian league fixtures set to be interrupted during the tournament – and it’s SP’s stadiums that are hogging the headlines. Palmeiras’ Allianz Parque, formerly known as Parque Antártica and Estádio Palestra Itália, is in the final stages of a refit. It’s scheduled to open in mid-2014 with a new capacity of 45,000 and a museum dedicated to Palmeiras. The biggest opening, however, will undoubtedly belong to Corinthians and its Arena Corinthians stadium which, much to the chagrin of team officials, is already being nicknamed the ‘Itaquerão’ due to its location in the neighbourhood of Itaquera, and which is still awaiting its official name, once a moneyspinning sponsorship name deal has been done. The stadium, which will provide a permanent base for the team after decades in its temporary home at the illustrious Pacaembu, will play host to the World Cup’s opening match – a redemption of sorts for the city, which didn’t host any games during 2013’s Confederations Cup.

RODRIGO COCA/FOTO ARENA

Football & São Paulo

20 Time Out São Paulo

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FOOTBALL

PALMEIRAS

Legendary player: Marcos Nickname: Verdão Titles: Copa Libertadores champions (1999) Home stadium: Allianz Parque Did you know? Even Pelé’s coastal São Paulo Santos squad were no match for Palmeiras, which won six national titles during its dominant run from 1960-1973.

SÃO PAULO

Legendary player: Rogério Ceni Nickname: Tricolor Paulista Titles: Three-time Club World Cup champions (1992, 1993 and 2005) Home stadium: Morumbi Did you know? São Paulo is the only Brazilian club to have had players in each of Brazil’s record-breaking five World Cup-winning teams.

MUSEU DO FUTEBOL The beautiful game, revealed in all its glory at the city’s museum of football

MUSEU DO FUTEBOL

even relive the trauma of Brazil’s 1950 World Cup loss to Uruguay, in a blackcurtained screening area. Other interactive exhibitions are geared towards youngsters, like the virtual goalkeeper that challenges sporty visitors of all sizes to take a penalty kick. Pacaembu Stadium, Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (11 3664 3848/ museudofutebol.org.br). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun (except on match days), 9am-10pm (during World Cup). Admission R$3-$6; free under-7s. Free to all Thu.

PRESS IMAGE

In a land in which Pelé and Ronaldo are kings, it’s no wonder that someone has erected a temple to the national sport. The fascinating Museu do Futebol treats football as an expression of Brazilian culture – from the evolving technical aspects of the sport to the game’s emotional power. Visitors can peruse archival documents, vintage photos and famous player gear, listen back to classic radio play calls, and peek into the underground structure of Pacaembu Stadium’s stands. They can

Time Out São Paulo 21

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FOOTBALL

LEONARDO LOURENÇO/PORTAL DA COPA

ARENA DE SÃO PAULO

World Cup 2014 It’s been a long journey to get this far, but São Paulo’s new stadium is set to kick off the Cup What’s in a name? Known as ‘Itaquerão’ locally after the neighbourhood of Itaquera in which it’s located, São Paulo’s ultra-modern Arena Corinthians is set to be called the ‘Arena de São Paulo’ for the duration of the World Cup, in FIFA’s

official literature. And it’s expected to change names again in the wake of the Cup, since as 2013 came to a close, Corinthians was busy negotiating a deal for the stadium naming rights. We’re betting the name ‘Itaquerão’ will stick though, locally, not least because of the confusing proliferation of choices. But whatever the moniker, the stadium’s construction looks to have provided São Paulo with a stadium worthy of Corinthians, one of the city’s three main teams, alongside São Paulo’s fine Morumbi home stadium, and

GETTING THERE The quickest and easiest way to get to the Arena Corinthians stadium is by taking the metrô’s red line 3 (‘Vermelha’) or the CPTM train line 11 (‘Coral’) to Corinthians-Itaquera station, in east São Paulo. From the station, it’s an 800m walk to the stadium. Anyone planning to go by taxi, bus or car, be warned that heavy traffic will likely make for a far lengthier journey.

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FOOTBALL Palmeiras’ Allianz Parque, currently being remodelled and expected to open in mid-2014. With a striking, open-sided design, the Arena Corinthians, created by the Rio de Janeiro architect Aníbal Coutinho, incorporates cutting-edge technology, to deliver – locals will be hoping – a new landmark worthy of international football. Construction on the stadium began in October 2010, in a build that has not been without its problems, including a tragic accident that killed two construction workers, when a crane fell as the roof was being installed in November 2013. Given the honour of hosting the 2014 FIFA World Cup’s opening game, the stadium is ready to receive 65,000 fans into its air-conditioned public spaces, for each of the six matches that will played there during the tournament. Its capacity will drop afterwards, with the removal of about 20,000 temporary seats. The seating itself offers fans an enviable proximity to the pitch, with the front-row seats just 9m from the turf; and the design also goes the extra mile for the players, featuring spa-like changing facilities for the teams. The sound-and-vision technology is equally impressive. On the eastern stand, more than

200,000 individual LED lights together make up one of the biggest television screens in the world. Measuring 170m x 20m, the lights are covered by 1,400 sheets of glass that required 145,000 individually drilled holes, to prevent glare and improve the overall image on the screen. Lucky omens abound in the design and even in the location. A huge Corinthians team badge set into the western stand is covered with a curvedglass façade made to replicate the bulge of a goal’s net when the ball hits – a lucky charm to add to a string of numerological coincidences the team will be hoping bring it good fortune when it takes up residence at the stadium in 2015. The pitch stands at a lucky 777 metres above sea level – an echo of Corinthians headquarters’ address at Rua São Jorge 777, and also of one of its finest years, 1977, when Corinthians won its first title in more than 22 years, that of the Paulista state championship. As the Brazilian team gears up for the Cup, dreaming of becoming world champions for what would be the sixth time – an unprecedented feat for any country – fans may be hoping the magic extends to the national team, too. An auspicious start for Brazil at Arena Corinthians on 12 June would set the tone nicely.

THE FAN PARK

VALE DO ANHANGABAÚ

MAURICIO SANTANA/LATINCONTENT/GETTY IMAGES

AFONSO LIMA

If you missed out on stadium tickets, head for downtown’s wide pedestrian valley, Vale do Anhangabaú (close to Metrô 3, Anhangabaú), where SP’s FIFA fan fest will be taking place. All the matches featuring Brazil are set to be shown there, as are the semifinals and the final, plus performances by Brazilian musicians, including one by the axé singer, Claudia Leitte, during one of the semi-finals.

CLAUDIA LEITTE

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FOOTBALL

Fixtures in São Paulo Brazil kicks off the 2014 FIFA World Cup with a match against Croatia, and São Paulo draws two excellent matches: Holland vs. Chile, and Uruguay vs. England, in which two former champions meet Thu 12 June

BRA

5pm

vs.

CRO

1pm

GROUP B TEAM 2

Tue 01 July

?

2nd 1st GROUP F vs. GROUP E

5pm

BEL

13h00

?

GROUP D TEAM 3

Thu 26 June

CHI GROUP B TEAM 3

ENG

vs.

GROUP D TEAM 1

Mon 23 June

vs.

4pm

URU

OPENING MATCH

NED

Thu 19 June

KOR

vs.

GROUP H TEAM 1

GROUP H TEAM 4

Wed 09 July

?

ROUND OF 16

17h00

QUARTER-FINAL WINNERS

?

SEMI-FINAL

BRAZIL IN THE WORLD CUP

RAFAEL RIBEIRO

Will the team reach the final and banish the spectre of its 1950 historic home-turf defeat? Despite its five World Cup wins – in 1958, 1962, 1970, 1994 and 2002 – Brazil’s most recent World Cup showings haven’t given its fans many reasons to be cheerful. The team arrived at the two previous World Cups as favourites to win, only to suffer quarter-final defeats to France (2006) and the Netherlands (2010). The fans’ feelings, until fairly recently, were that a sixth championship would prove elusive. However, since Brazil won the 2013 Confederations Cup, defeating 2010 World Cup champion Spain, there is renewed hope that Rio’s Maracanã stadium, where the final will be played on 13 July, might yet be the stage for the re-consecration of the national team. The iconic stadium was the scene of the nowinfamous Maracanaço – the 1950 World Cup final in which Uruguay silenced a record 174,000 fans by defeating Brazil on its home turf.

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Sightseeing

SHUTTERSTOCK

Things to see & do

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PARQUE DO IBIRAPUERA

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SHUTTERSTOCK

CATEDRAL DA SÉ

Sightseeing From architectural gems to urban art, there’s more to São Paulo than first meets the eye With the city’s apparently infinite sprawl of high-rises dominating the skyline from on high, it’s easy to lose sight – literally and figuratively – of the visual treats São Paulo has to offer. But despite the daunting size of this, Brazil’s cultural capital, a refreshing majority of SP’s highlights are easily accessible, and often even within walking distance of one another. In the city’s downtown area, for example, look beyond the decay and you’ll find everything from early20th-century survivors like the magnificent Sala São Paulo to ambitious Modernist icons like Oscar Niemeyer’s curvaceous Copan building. Beyond Centro’s architecture, eager pedestrians can also marvel at the city’s bustling and ever-changing street-art scene – now considered one of the world’s most vibrant – in other well-known focal points like Vila Madalena. Once you’re done getting your fill of the city’s outdoor offerings, take the show indoors, where you’ll find numerous galleries

SÃO PAULO AREA BY AREA

and museums to explore, from the interactive, unadulterated fun of the Museu do Futebol, to the Picassos and Goyas of the world on display at MASP. And after a long day of wandering across town, reward yourself by settling down somewhere with an unobstructed view for, arguably, the best sight of them all – São Paulo’s awe-inspiring night skyline.

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PILAR COMUNICAÇÃO

OSCAR NIEMEYER: CLASSICS & UNPUBLISHED.

A selection of projects, photographs and models.

Know the creative process of the greatest Brazilian architect and his monumental work.

First project for the HQ of CESP, drawn up by Oscar Niemeyer in 1979.

jun 5 to jul 27, 2014

Realização

Parceria

estacionamento conveniado, com entrada pela rua leôncio de carvalho /itaucultural fone 11 2168 1777 atendimento@itaucultural.org.br avenida paulista 149 são paulo sp 01311 000 [estação brigadeiro do metrô]

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SIGHTSEEING

NEIGHBOURHOODS 1. CENTRO The most historic part of São Paulo is a slightly dilapidated version of its grand former self, but many of the landmark sites can also be found here, with splendid views to be had from the tops of skyscrapers like the Edifício Itália (see Sights). Centro has also become a target for urban renewal and an art hotspot, with new art spaces opening up, like the stunning Praça das Artes, Pivô, and the new, five-storey Red Bull Station. 2. LUZ, BRÁS & MOOCA The bairros (neighbourhoods) of Brás and Mooca were labour centres during São Paulo’s industrial revolution, populated by waves of Italian immigration. Luz is home to the stunning Estação da Luz – a working railway station built at the end of the 19th century, part of which now constitutes the fine Museu da Língua Portuguesa (the Museum of the Portuguese Language). But while Parque da Luz, opposite, is one of the city’s loveliest parks, Luz itself suffers from serious social problems, including pockets of crack addiction. Enjoy the scenery, but keep your wits about you. 3. BELA VISTA & LIBERDADE Directly south of Centro lies the city’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood of Liberdade, home to the world’s largest Japanese diaspora – though Chinese and Korean immigrants have also moved into the area, creating an evolving Pan-Asian population, complete with a range of cuisine to match. South-west of Liberdade, Bela Vista was once another stronghold of the city’s Italian community, as well as one of the cradles of its traditional black community, particularly in the neighbourhood of Bixiga.

6. PINHEIROS & VILA MADALENA With their eclectic collection of bars, boutiques, spas, restaurants and galleries, it doesn’t get much trendier than these adjacent areas. Dotted with welcoming bars and cosy music venues, they’re perfect for laid-back Sundays over a few beers with friends. The city’s busiest bar hotspot is to be found at the crossing of Rua Aspicuelta and Rua Mourato Coelho, in Vila Madalena. 7. ITAIM BIBI & VILA OLÍMPIA At night, these traffic-choked office- and hotelcentric neighbourhoods become interesting destinations for their abundance of dining options, also featuring some of the city’s more upmarket nightlife. Located south of Pinheiros and west of Jardins, these ’hoods are brimming with sleek new condominiums and high-class malls for the rich. Nevertheless, where big money goes (some) culture will follow, and there’s no shortage of art galleries to explore as well. 8. BROOKLIN, BUTANTÃ & MORUMBI The metropolitan area of the city’s outer edges, on either side of the polluted slick that is the Pinheiros river, has supplanted the favelas that were once its defining feature. Glass-fronted skyscrapers and financial centres, shopping malls and luxury hotels now dot the area.

ESTAÇÃO DA LUZ

5. AVENIDA PAULISTA & JARDINS Snazzy Jardim Paulista is epitomised by the chic designer fashion street, Rua Oscar Freire. A stroll through these affluent streets is as much about people-watching as it is about shopping. The long, skyscraper-lined ridge that is Avenida Paulista is also one of the city’s few clear landmarks, with its towering antennae visible for miles around.

SHUTTERSTOCK

4. CONSOLAÇÃO & HIGIENÓPOLIS Encircling the western edge of Centro are the attractive neighbourhoods of Consolação and Higienópolis. The former has become, in part, a buzzy restaurant and bar area frequented by media types, while the latter is a largely residential area notable for its architecture, which houses a sizeable part of the city’s Jewish community.

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SIGHTSEEING

MUSEUMS & CULTURAL CENTRES Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the multi-level space. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (11 3397 4002/centrocultural.sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat, Sun, public holidays. Free.

are generally free. Go for the Thursday night happy hour, when jazz trumpet player Walmir Gil lets loose (8-11pm). Rua Rego Freitas 542, República (11 3256 2636/matilhacultural.com.br). Open noon11pm Tue-Fri; 2-11pm Sat, Sun. Free.

Museu Afro Brasil The Afro-Brazil museum is one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. A closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do IbiOL rapuera, Ibirapuera (11 3320 8900/ FUTEB allO D tb U museuafrobrasil.org.br). Open 10amMUSE n at the foo . fu m 5pm Tue-Sun. Free. Family ed museu

T DON’ MISS

PIVÔ

DANIEL ATHAYDE/DIVULGAÇÃO

DANIEL ATHAYDE/PRESS IMAGE

Instituto Tomie Ohtake Housed in an imposing skyscraper adorned with candycane waves of purple and maroon glass, the Instituto, named afthem Football ter the iconic Japanese-Brazilian artist, See dominates the Pinheiros skyline. It was Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) designed by Tomie Ohtake’s son, Ruy Ohtake, The Museum of Image and Sound is home to and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibia collection of 30,000 items in the shape of photos, tions. Rua dos Coropés 88, Pinheiros (11 2245 1900/ films and records. It also stages temporary exhibiinstitutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am-8pm Tuetions and retrospectives, as well as the Green Sunset Sun. Free. series of daytime parties, monthly on Saturdays. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (11 2117 Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cultural 4777/mis-sp.org.br). Open noon-9pm (last entry space in Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, 8pm) Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm (last entry 7pm) Sun. courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which Admission Varies based on event. No credit cards.

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SIGHTSEEING

THEATRO MUNICIPAL

JEFFERSON PANCIERI/SPTURIS

Centro’s neoclassical jewel, and one of SP’s most surprising and lovely historic buildings

THEATRO MUNICIPAL

the theatre. With an eventual 38,000m2 of floor space, the Praça das Artes is home to the Theatro Municipal’s dance and music schools and ballet company, and the city’s two orchestras, two choirs and string quartet. The contemporary design of Praça das Artes weaves the neoclassical grandeur of the original Music Conservatory in with a tumble of new, concrete modules, bringing a new infusion of artistic life to the area. Theatro Municipal, Praça Ramos de Azevedo, República (11 3397 0300/prefeitura.sp.gov.br). Ticket office 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. PRAÇA DAS ARTES

MÁRCIO CRUZ

When the curtain rose on Verdi’s Rigoletto at the Theatro Municipal on 14 September 2011, it was 100 years almost to the day since the curtains had risen for the very first time. A city landmark and an essential part of São Paulo’s cultural fabric, the ‘Municipal’ opened at the turn of the 20th century, at a time in which São Paulo was enjoying an economic boom thanks to the growth of its coffee plantations. ‘The Theatro Municipal came into being to fulfill the cosmopolitan yearnings of the city’s upper classes,’ says the historian Márcia Camargos. Work began on the theatre in 1903, and took eight years to complete in the capable hands of the architect Ramos de Azevedo, whose team created a building with drama, and with dazzling stature. In 1922, it was the setting for the seminal ‘Semana de Arte Moderna’, which marked the start of the Modernist movement in Brazil and featured the work of artists such as Tarsila do Amaral, and the writer Oswald de Andrade. The cherry on top came in 2013, when the first phase of a stunning new arts complex, Praça das Artes (Avenida São João 281), opened just a hop, skip and a pirouette from

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o be a grilled gastronomy classic is, most of all, a recognition stated throughout generations. And, within this context, Dinho’s, creator of real grill classics, reinvents itself by presenting remakes of well known tastes and aromas. Come see for yourself.

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SIGHTSEEING

GALLERIES Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery in a house in Vila Madalena is dedicated to Brazilian urban art in all its ever-evolving forms, featuring works by unmissable artists like Stephan Doitschinoff, Speto and Carlos Dias, as well as affordable print and sticker art. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque

250, Vila Madalena (11 3061 4051/choquecultural.com.br). Open 11am-6pm Tue-Sat. Free. Emma Thomas This hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is housed in a new building, featuring a striking façade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, there’s a classic white-cube exhibition space and, right on top, a terrace looking out over the tree-

WALKING TOURS TORRE DO BANESPA

CITY CENTRE NIGHT WALK This Thursday-night walk strays from the usual walking-tour territory in that the itinerary isn’t fixed, and also in its noble aim of trying to raise awareness of the need to revitalise the city centre. Two hours long, the tour includes some of the most interesting and important of SP’s sights, such as the 1947 Torre do Banespa, modelled on the Empire State Building. Theatro Municipal, Praça Ramos de Azevedo (no number), República (11 3256 7909/caminhadanoturna. com.br). 8pm Thursdays. Free.

SP FREE WALKING TOUR For the chance to explore the city’s historic centre, or the gleaming towers and old mansions around Avenida Paulista, join one of the free, three or four-hour group tours, run in English. The Centro tour meets at 11.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays at Praça da República, next to the tourist information centre. Metrô 3, República. The Avenida Paulista tour meets at 3.30pm on Thursdays and Sundays at the corner of Rua Augusta and Avenida Paulista, in front of the Banco do Brasil. Metrô 2, Consolação. (spfreewalkingtour.com). Free.

CAIO PIMENTA/SPTURIS

SAMPAPÉ Using crowdsourcing to decide which of SP’s neighbourhoods to explore next, SampaPé publishes the resulting agenda on its site every month. Locations and dates vary. Check site for details and to book (sampape. com.br). Price R$20.

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SIGHTSEEING

Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (11 3093 8184/galerialeme. com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Free. Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, Galeria Vermelho has a well-earned reputation for championing emerging artists. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (11 3138 1520/galeriavermelho.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm TueFri; 11am-5pm Sat. Free. Pivô Set in the heart of one of SP’s most iconic buildings – Oscar Niemeyer’s Copan – this sprawling space is run by an energetic bunch of artsy types. Their mission to interact with some of SP’s other galleries and institutions has so far resulted in shows at Pivô by the hip young galleries Emma Thomas and Mendes Wood. Avenida Ipiranga 200, loja 54, bloco A, República (11 3255 8703/pivo.org. br). Metrô 1, República. Open 1-8pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm Sat. Free.

PARQUE DO IBIRAPUERA

SIGHTS Beco do Batman This beco, or alley, is the city’s premiere open-air street-art gallery, featuring works by many of the scene’s most important names. Wander the winding alleyway, and admire the stunning graffiti. Rua Gonçalo Afonso, Vila Madalena. Free. Edifício Itália In a city surprisingly devoid of rooftop spots with superb vistas, Edifício Itália has the highest (168m) and the most spectacular, seen from the viewing platform on the 41st floor. Access is free for Terraço Itália bar and restaurant clients, with a R$30 cover fee for everyone else, except 3-4pm Mon-Fri, when access is free. Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (11 2189 2929/terracoitalia.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Jardim Botânico A paradise, set away from the concrete jungle, the Jardim Botânico is in a state reserve of over 800,000 square metres of coastal rainforest inside São Paulo’s giant Parque do Estado. Avenida Miguel Estéfano 1331, Água Funda (11 5067 6000/ibot.sp.gov.br/index.php). Open 9am5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$2.50-$5. Parque do Ibirapuera SP’s heart-shaped park is an oasis of calm, with bike paths, running trails and Niemeyer-designed museums and galleries – duck inside the MAC museum of contemporary art to see what’s stirring in the art world. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, Ibirapuera (11 5574 5045). Open 5am-midnight daily. Free.

FELIPE BORGES/FLICKR

tops of leafy Jardins. Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (11 3063 2193/emmathomas.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Free.

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SIGHTSEEING

SESCS The city’s network of SESCs is the stage for affordable, world-class shows and events

NELSON KON/PRESS IMAGE

The impact on its cultural scene made by Brazil’s non-profit network of SESC centres, scattered throughout the land, is impossible to overstate. Even in São Paulo, where there is a large number and variety of events on offer, the city’s SESCs remain its most consistent providers of excellent quality, range and and value for money when it comes to theatre, dance and live music. Created in 1946 as a way for Brazilian commerce to assure the social well-being of the general workforce, SESC (Serviço Social do Comércio – the ‘commercial sector’s social services’) has become a giant, wellfunded non-profit institution, thanks to laws that regulate and encourage contributions by all commercial enterprises. Its aim is to promote culture, health and education to the Brazilian public, and it has centres in every city of a decent size. In São Paulo itself, there are 16 SESC venues, which function as major athletic, performance and exhibition centres. A constantly changing roster of world-class

music, dance, art and theatre events is on offer, and ticket prices are always reasonable (around $R5-$25), and often even free. The standout SESCs include the immense red-and-white building and four swimming pools of SESC Belenzinho (Rua Padre Adelino 1000, Belenzinho, 11 2076 9700), built three years ago. SESC Bom Retiro (Alameda Nothmann 185, Bom Retiro, 11 3332 3600) is even newer, its bright, glass-walled atrium looking out into the heart of the surrounding neighbourhood. But the undisputed jewel in the crown is SESC Pompeia (Rua Clelia 93, Pompeia, 11 3871 7700), a former factory that was transformed into a stunning cultural and community centre by the Modernist architect Lina Bo Bardi, who was also responsible for the MASP art museum. The complex, which opened in 1982, also houses the live music beer hall, the Choperia. For information on programming, and to buy tickets online, visit sescsp.org.br. Most venues are closed on Mondays (Carmo, Consolação and Odontologia open daily).

SESC POMPEIA

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Food & Drink

LILA BATISTA/PRESS IMAGE

Restaurants, bars & nightlife

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Restaurants From fine dining to cheap-and-cheerful diners, São Paulo is vying for the top spot as South America’s culinary capital As you might expect from a city the size of São Paulo, the choice of places to eat out has taken on epic proportions, from the myriad neighbourhood lanchonetes (snack bars) and bakeries to million-dollar investments in slinky new restaurants, all part of a never-ending carousel of gastronomic comings and goings. The superlatives apply equally to the variety on offer, in a culinary scene as eclectic as São Paulo’s immigration history. The city’s massive influx of Italian, Japanese, Jewish, Lebanese and Syrian immigrants from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, have all made their mark on the city’s cuisine, with Bolivians and Koreans adding to the mix in more recent years. Head to the neighbourhoods of Mooca or Bixiga for a taste of Italy, where they take their pizza seriously, eschewing cardboard boxes in favour of white tablecloths and attentive waiters serving your every slice. Japanese restaurants can be found to suit every budget in Liberdade – once a Japanese stronghold, but now home to growing ranks of Korean and Chinese eateries, too.

Doubling as the country’s business capital, São Paulo is also rich in high-class steakhouses, churrascarias, serving up prime cuts à la carte, or ‘rodízio’-style – all-you-can-eat feasts, where waiters circulate, slicing straight onto your plate from piping-hot cuts of meat. Add to that the talented chefs transforming Brazil’s bountiful natural larder into award-winning gourmet delights – among them Alex Atala, Helena Rizzo and Rodrigo Oliveira, at the helms of of D.O.M., Maní and Mocotó, respectively – and putting São Paulo on the dining map in the process.

BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto Chef Ana Luiza Trajano sends the Amazon’s finest ingredients to your table at this Brazilian gem. Rua Azevedo de Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (11 3086 3565/brasilagosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$99; lunch R$49-$69; couvert R$14-$16. D.O.M. Sample award-winning chef Alex Atala’s signature mix of rare ingredients and regional dishes in the more down-to-earth of his two restaurants, Dalva e Dito (Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista, 11 3068 4444, dalvaedito.com.br) – or splurge here at D.O.M., the number-seven-ranking restaurant in the 2014 World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, where Atala gives molecular gastronomy a

PRESS IMAGE

MANI

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THE BRAZILIAN WAY OF PREPARING MEAT. Come enjoy our selection of prime cuts prepared in traditional gaucho style along with impeccable service. Make your reservation now at Fogo de Chão.

fogodechao.com.br /fogodechaobr

Find the Fogo de Chão nearest you. São Paulo: Center Norte (11) 2089-1736 | Jardins (11) 3062-2223 | Moema (11) 5056-1795 Santo Amaro (11) 5524-0500 | Vila Olímpia (11) 5505-0791 | Belo Horizonte: (31) 3227-2730 Brasília: (61) 3322-4666 | Rio de Janeiro: (21) 2279-7117 | Salvador: (71) 3555-9292 ADS_ENG 1º.indd 41 14 x 21 Time out ing.indd 1

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FOOD & DRINK very Brazilian twist. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (11 3088 0761/domrestaurante. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Prices tasting menu R$242 (vegetarian)-$495 (dinner only); lunch R$82$171; couvert R$38 (lunch only).

BRASIL A GOSTO

Maní Contemporary, sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious, Maní’s earthy ambience and imaginative food make it one of São Paulo’s most successful restaurants. Reservations strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (11 3062 7458/manimanioca.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8.30-11.30pm Fri; 1-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm Sat; 1-4pm Sun. Main courses R$53-$72; lunch R$39-44; couvert R$16-$19.

MARCO HOVNANIAN/PRESS IMAGE

Paris 6 All-night bakeries and cafés are ten a penny for a late-night bite, but Paris 6, SP’s grand dame of the night, is one of the only restaurants in the city that truly never sleeps. Rua Haddock Lobo 1240, Jardim Paulista (11 3085 1595/paris6.com.br). Rex Restaurante Dining at 3am doesn’t have to mean a burger and chips. Go for the likes of filet mignon with a glass of wine at this quirky restaurant, open until 4am. Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (11 2506 7386/rexrestaurante.com.br). Sujinho This traditional steakhouse, still known as ‘Bar das Putas’ (‘the whores’ bar’) in honour of its former clientele, is a late-nighteating landmark, open until 5am. Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (11 3231 1299/sujinho.com.br).

ALEXANDRE SCHNEIDER/PRESS IMAGE

Take 3… Late night dining

Mocotó Serving up traditional North Eastern dishes, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Despite its being well off the beaten track, you can expect to queue for hours for a weekend lunch. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (11 2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-11pm Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$16.90-$89.90 (for two). O Compadre This buffet features sixty dishes, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew), salads and some side dishes like fried okra and the bitter vegetable jiló. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) and entrecôte are good bets. Finish things off with one of their 200-strong line-up of cachaças from Minas Gerais. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/compadre.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon5.30pm. Price buffet R$66.90-$74.90. Tordesilhas With a menu that features mostly local and seasonal ingredients, Tordesilhas is a classic spot for Brazilian regional cuisine, done with elegance. Alameda Tietê 489, Jardim Paulista (11 3107 7444/tordesilhas.com). Open 6pm1am Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$55-$79.

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FOOD & DRINK Rua Matogrosso 154, Higienópolis (11 2659 2525). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonWed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Thu-Fri; 7pm1.30am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$34-$86; couvert R$7.

ECLECTIC AK Vila The thoroughly varied menu at this stylish spot features classic Central European dishes like goulash alongside Peruvian soup and gourmet burgers. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1240, Vila Madalena (11 3231 4496/akvila.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Fri; 12.304.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$33-$84; lunch R$38.

Clos de Tapas Flirting with molecular gastronomy, the Brazilian chef Ligia Karazawa offers two tasting menus – a four-course (R$130) one and an eight-course one (R$180) – and one of the city’s best-value set lunches (R$48). Rua Domingos Fernandes 548, Vila Nova Conceição (11 3045 2154/closdetapas.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat and holidays. Main courses R$29-$88; lunch R$48; couvert R$15.

Arturito The ever-changing menu at this fashionable restaurant includes some hard-to-find dishes for Brazil, such as leg of lamb and ceviche. Rua Artur Azevedo 542, Pinheiros (11 3063 4951/ arturito.com.br). Open 7-11.30pm Mon; noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4pm, 8pm12.30am Sat; 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses R$24-$86; lunch R$44; couvert R$6.50.

Chez MIS Its modern design aesthetic and location in the garden of the MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) have made Chez MIS an instant hit with a hipster crowd. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (11 3467 3441/chez.com.br/ chezmis). Open noon-1am Tue-Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-10pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$99; lunch R$26-$46.

Bravin With its dark, wallpapered ceilings, ’50s furniture, hearty food and excellent wine, Bravin is a great spot for a late-night tryst.

Ramona A welcome late-night dining option in downtown’s gourmet vacuum, Ramona draws a media and artsy crowd for sassy cocktails and a no-frills menu. Avenida São Luís 282, República (11 3258 6385/casaramona.com.br). Metrô 3 and 4, República. Open noon-midnight Mon, Tue; noon-2am Wed-Fri; 1pm-2am Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$21-$55; lunch R$31.

BRACIA PARRILLA

MAURO HOLANDA/PRESS IMAGE

Ráscal With seven branches throughout the city (five of them inside malls) the self-service Ráscal spoils vegetarians silly with arguably the best salad bar in town, as well as a wood-fired pizza oven and a pasta and grill section Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (11 3816 3546/rascal.com. br). Open noon-3.15pm, 7-10.15pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.15pm, 7-11.15pm Fri; noon-5.15pm, 7pm-11.15pm Sat; noon-5.15pm, 7-10.15pm Sun. Main courses R$41-$49; buffet R$66$72. Other locations Citywide. Sal Gastronomia Sharing a courtyard with cutting-edge Galeria Vermelho, this is top-notch cuisine at a thoroughly fair price. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (11 3151 3085/salgastronomia.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon3pm, 8.30-11.30pm Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 8pmmidnight Thu, Fri; noon-midnight Sat. Main courses R$35-$78; lunch R$45; couvert R$10.

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www.tonyromas.com.br

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ATTIMO

STEAKHOUSES A Figueira Rubaiyat Some of the city’s best beef is served here, to power couples and the financial elite. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (11 3087 1399/rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$78$243; lunch R$65 (Mon-Thu); couvert R$26.

MAURO HOLANDA/PRESS IMAGE

FOOD & DRINK

Corrientes 348 This popular joint is Argentinian by name and by nature, down to the myriad authentic cuts of meat on the menu. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia (11 3849 0348/restaurante348.com. br). Open noon-3.45pm, 7pm-midnight TueFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$88-$130. Other locations Rua Bahia 364, Higienópolis (11 4306 0348); Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 32, Pinheiros (11 3032 6348).

Barbacoa It isn’t cheap, but Barbacoa’s range and quality of meat, which Dinho’s The star of the meaty menu includes fish and wild boar, is outat Dinho’s is the US-style prime rib – standing. Rua Doutor Renato Paes all 700g of it, packed with flavour de Barros 65, Itaim Bibi (11 3168 pa and an immense Fred Flintstone5522/barbacoa.com.br). Open a p e Pair th noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Thu; RIES fried potato style bone. Alameda Santos 45, y NCY F noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; FA so – crunch a steak, at Paraíso (11 3016 5333/dinhos. s h com.br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; ta slices – wit tes 348. n Corrie 2-$26 7pm-midnight Mon; 11.30am-3pm, noon-6pm, 7-10.30pm Sun. Fixed R$2 7pm-1am Tue-Fri; 11.30am-1am Sat; price R$103.70. Other locations 11.30am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$62D&D Shopping, Avenida das Nações Uni$237; lunch buffet R$105-$135. Other locadas 12555, Brooklin (11 3043 9244); Morumbi tion Rua Jerônimo Veiga 153, Itaim Bibi (11 Shopping, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr. 1089, Mo3079 1049). rumbi (11 5181 6898).

EAT THIS

Bracia Parrilla This contemporary steakhouse serves Argentinian cuts and typical desserts like churros and dulce de leche. Rua Azevedo Soares 1008, Tatuapé (11 2295 0099/braciaparilla.com. br). Open 11.30am-last customer daily. Main courses R$57-$89; couvert R$10.80.

Fogo de Chão Brazil’s best-known barbecued meat franchise prides itself on serving the best cuts of Brazilian meat. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro (11 5524 0500/fogodechao. com.br). Open noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun.

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FOOD & DRINK ZUCCO

attimorestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46$101; lunch R$49; couvert R$18.50. Bráz There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu at this upmarket pizzeria, voted the city’s best on numerous occasions in the local press. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (11 5561 0905/ casabraz.com.br). Open 6.30pm-midnight MonWed; 6.30pm-12.30am Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-midnight Sun. Medium pizza R$44-$61. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (11 3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (11 3255 8090).

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

Fasano Head right through the elegant lobby of the Fasano hotel to the eponymous Italian restaurant – a grand atrium awash with black marble and dark wood in an unmistakeable, classic 1930s style. Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (11 3062 4000/fasano.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$99-$119; couvert R$29.

Fixed price R$112 (without meat R$90). Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (11 5505 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (11 5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (11 2089 1736); Rua Augusta 2077, Jardim Paulista (11 3062 2223). Templo da Carne Marcos Bassi The signature cuts at this excellent steakhouse are fraldinha (flank steak), and bom-bom (a cut taken from the heart of a rump steak). Rua Treze de Maio 668, Bela Vista (11 3289 6701/marcosbassi.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$80-$118; couvert R$21.80.

ITALIAN Attimo Just as interesting as this restaurant’s contemporary design is the cuisine – a fusion dubbed ‘Italo-caipira’, blending Italian cooking with that of rural, inland São Paulo. Rua Diogo Jácome 341, Vila Nova Conceição (11 5054 9999/

Margherita Allow yourself to be drawn to the brightly-lit, inviting aspect of this pizzeria, just off Avenida Paulista. Inside, red-and-white checked tablecloths are reminiscent of a traditional Italian pizzeria, though the menu also includes Brazilian touches such as requeijão (cream cheese) toppings. The namesake pizza is a must, while slightly more adventurous diners might like to try the Campesina, featuring aubergine, parmesan cheese and olives. Alameda Tiête 255, Jardim Paulista (2714 3000/margherita.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-1.30am Sun-Thu; 6.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$46-$69. Vinheria Percussi The standout dishes at this classic local Italian include the marvellous filet mignon covered in gorgonzola sauce. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 523, Pinheiros (11 3088 4920/ vinheriapercussi.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$47.40-$98.70; lunch R$48; couvert R$9.60. Zucco A floor-to-ceiling glass exterior gives a sneak preview of the sleek, modern interior of this Italian restaurant, with a broad menu offering a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (11 3897 0666/zuccorestaurante.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-midnight MonThu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$44-$98; lunch R$61; couvert R$13.90.

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LICHT

Fraldinha Congratulations for 47 years, you are now a gastronomic property of the city of Sao Paulo prêmio paladar estadão 2013

in 1967 she brought joy to the world...

and with only 18 years old, was reason of proud...

turned magazine cover and was considered the best in town.

Templo da Carne Marcos Bassi

Rua Treze de Maio . 668 . Bela Vista . São Paulo . 55. 11. 3288.7045 www.marcosbassi.com.br

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FOOD & DRINK

DISH OF THE DAY Come lunchtime, São Paulo has a designated dish for each day of the week

ROGERIO VOLTAN/PRESS IMAGE

GLADSTONE CAMPOS/PRESS IMAGE

There’s nothing like a bit of repetition to inject some predictability into life, but few places take it to the lengths it reaches in street-corner lanchonetes (snack bars), restaurants and botecos across São Paulo. At these local eateries, there’s a set meal – a ‘prato feito’, or ‘PF’ – for every day of the week, and they’re crowned, arguably, by the rich savoury goodness of the national comfort-food passion: the feijoada.

TUESDAY Dobradinha is a hearty stew of tripe with white beans, bacon, sausage, tomatoes and parsley.

WEDNESDAY/SATURDAY Feijoada – a national favourite – is a pork-and-bean stew, served with rice, kale and orange slices.

THURSDAY Rabada means oxtail, and that’s what’s traditionally served on Thursdays, often accompanied by polenta and watercress.

FRIDAY Fish is a classic Friday dish in many Catholic countries, and it’s no different here, served any which way you like.

SUNDAY Pizza is a Sunday institution for paulistanos, bringing families together in thousands of pizzerias citywide.

MAURO HOLANDA/PRESS IMAGE

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PRESS IMAGE

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MONDAY Virado à paulista, served with tutu de feijão (rehashed beans), pork, sausages, rice, kale, banana and a fried egg.

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DÉBORA PAES/PRESS IMAGE

FOOD & DRINK

FOGO DE CHÃO

JAPANESE Aizomê The all-round Japanese food experience here – best sampled in the tasting menu – is one of the best in town. Alameda Fernão Cardim 39, Jardim Paulista (11 3251 5157/aizome.com.br). Open noon-2.30pm; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.3011pm Sat. Prices small dishes R$18-$47; tasting menu R$165-$190; lunch R$47-$120. Hideki The sashimi and sushi at Hideki are a cut above, with prices to match – try the great value lunch buffet. Rua dos Pinheiros 70, Pinheiros (11 3086 0685/hidekisushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.45pm Tue-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-11.45pm; noon-3.45pm, 7-11.45pm Sat; noon-3.45pm, 7-10.45pm Sun. Fixed price R$75-$105. Other locations Rua dos Imarés 542, Moema (11 5049 3224); Rua Treze de Maio 1050, Bela Vista (11 3283 1833). Lamen Kazu Whether it’s a mid-week dinner or a weekend lunch, expect to join a long-ish queue made up of hungry customers of mostly Japanese extraction at this noodle house. Rua Tomás Gonzaga 51, Liberdade (11 3277 4286/lamenkazu. com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$20$42.

Shin-Zushi Considered by some to be the best Japanese food in town, the sushi here is cut from top-quality fish, and it shows. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (11 3889 8700). Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso. Open 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one R$160; lunch R$35; couvert R$10.

SEAFOOD Bacalhoeiro Try the octopus starter before moving on to the bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod served with baked potato – at this elegant Portuguese restaurant. Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$65-$120; lunch R$38.90; couvert R$15-$19. Rufino’s Rufino’s serves ultra-fresh fish and classic Spanish recipes. Try the bountiful grilled seafood platter. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 377, Itaim Bibi (3074 8800/rufinositaim.com.br). Noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Thur; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$189; couvert R$18.50. Other location Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Morumbi (5182 8599/rufinosmorumbi.com.br).

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Foto: Tadeu Brunelli

vours a l f n Italia razil in B

Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite, 523 Pinheiros São Paulo SP T 11 3088 4920 | 11 3064 4094

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FOOD & DRINK

MIDDLE EASTERN Arábia Representing the culinary pinnacle of São Paulo’s Lebanese roots, Arabia’s lamb tagine is unforgettable. Rua Haddock Lobo, 1397, Jardim Paulista (11 3061 2203/arabia.com.br). Open noonmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$24-$89; lunch $45. Kebabel ‘Beer and kebabs’ is the tagline here, and boy do they deliver. Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (11 3259 1805/kebabel.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 6pm-midnight Mon; noon-midnight Tue-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat, Sun and holidays. Main courses R$17-$27.

BUDGET OPTIONS Consulado Mineiro A firm São Paulo favourite for its hearty, reasonably-priced fare from the

inland state of Minas Gerais. Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros (11 3088 6055/consuladomineiro.com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-8pm Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$73-$93 (for two); lunch R$25.50. El Kabong Grill This Tex-Mex joint draws in the crowds with its popular promos (5-8pm, mon-fri). Rua Mateus Grou 15, Pinheiros (11 3064 9354/elkabong.com.br). Open 5pm-until last costumer, MonSat; 4pm-until last costumer Sun. Main Couses R$20-$66. Tian Bringing a mix of Asian cuisines to its menu, this sleek, contemporary newcomer with shared dishes is a good choice for groups. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 36, Itaim Bibi (11 2389 9399/tianrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm MonWed; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; noon4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices sharing dishes R$16-$38.

TASTE OF JAPAN

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

BUENO

Eat, drink and be merry, Japanese style, at São Paulo’s izakayas A welcome antidote to those who think Japanese cuisine begins and ends with sushi, izakayas – a word which loosely translates as ‘to sit in a sake bar’ – are a Japanese take on gastropubs and have been popping up in São Paulo over the last few years. That’s not to say they’re a new phenomenon here; old-fashioned mainstays like Kabura (Rua Galvão Bueno 346, Liberdade, 11 3277 2918) have been going strong for decades in SP’s Japanese heartland, Liberdade. Newer neighbours include Izakaya Issa (Rua Barão de Iguape 89, Liberdade, 11 3208 8819) – a shoesoff spot run by an all-lady line-up, serving traditional fare along with an all-imported sake menu. At the bright and breezy Bueno (Alameda Santos 835, Jardim Paulista, 11 2386 8035, izakayabueno.com.br), chef, owner and former sumo wrestler Fernando Kuroda cooks up mouth-watering classics like okonomiyaki – a fried cabbage and pumpkin pancake (see photo). Check out the newest arrival, the low-lit, diminutive Minato Izakaya (Rua dos Pinheiros 1308, Pinheiros, 11 3814 8065), which – unlike most izakayas – also serves sushi.

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THE HIGHLIGHT OF JAPANESE CUISINE

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FOOD & DRINK

THE LUNCH BUNCH

CINTIA SANCHEZ/PRESS IMAGE

BETH COZINHA DE ESTAR

Load up at the laden tables of São Paulo’s buffet and pay-by-weight lunch spots and salads. Nearby, Trio 19 (e-Tower, Rua Funchal 418, Itaim Bibi, 11 3040 2200, grupotrio.com.br) is the place for lunch with a view, 19 floors up with floor-to-ceiling windows, while Beth Cozinha de Estar (Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1061, Itaim Bibi, 11 3073 0354) is a business-lunch favourite. In Pinheiros, don’t miss the excellent lunch at the dinky Las Chicas Gourmet Garage (Rua Oscar Freire 1607, Pinheiros, 11 3063 0533, laschicas.net.br).

SHUTTERSTOCK

In Hong Kong, you’d slurp down a bowl of noodles. In New York, it might be a falafel wrap or a slice of pizza. In London, more often than not it’s a sandwich at your desk. Lunch: each city has a favourite way of doing it. Here in São Paulo, whether your midday meal is business, pleasure or simple sustenance, don’t miss the chance to experience one of the city’s fantastic buffets. Scores of these lunch-only eateries vie for customers in the city’s business hubs, which means you can find excellent, impressively varied arrays of food. Choose between two types of buffet: all-you-can-eat preço fixo (fixed price) establishments, or pay-byweight quilo (kilo) spots, where you simply grab a plate and start loading it. A word of caution: browse what’s on offer first, and strategise for a moment, then help yourself. In Itaim, Bar des Arts (Rua Pedro Humberto 9, Itaim Bibi, 11 3074 6363, bardesarts.com.br) is a stunning setting, in an old mansion, with an ample buffet filled with Mediterranean-style dishes

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sabbre.com

Do you want something else? Oh, yes, it will be here in a second. Anything you need, I’ll be right here is your order. Dizzy diner is inspired by the prides of the North region to create the best snacks and services. This is the case of our fast care, that honors the Brazilian fastest driver of all times, who was born in the region and conquered the world.

Av. Braz Leme, 2040 • Santana - São Paulo • Tel: 2967 1000 Praça Sto. Eduardo, 206 • V. Maria - São Paulo • Tel: 2955 5908 facebook.com/dizzylanchonete • www.dizzy.com.br

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Bars & Nightlife With multiple styles and genres on tap, the city’s party reputation is well-deserved

for a youngish, tattooed, Jack Daniel’s-swilling crowd. Rua Augusta 335, Consolação (11 3151 4568/astronete.tumblr.com). Open 10pm-5am Thu-Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$16; cover R$15-R$50.

Caos In a compact little space on the Baixo Augusta nightlife strip, Caos is a bric-à-brac store Grab a sugar-packed caipirinha for a pre-party by day and a bar/club by night. Rua Augusta pick-me-up, and prepare for the long haul: the 584, Consolação (11 2365 1260/caos584.com.br). party never ends in São Paulo. Weekends find Open 8.30pm-late Wed-Sat. Prices small bota number of bars offering live samba early tle beer R$6; caipirinha R$13; minimum in the afternoon, with daytime revellers spend R$30 (Thu-Sat). passing the baton to the nocturnal crowd, who start queuing up around Mercearia São Pedro midnight at the city’s vibrant out Something of a city instituelectronic clubs and live music Look ating IN E ic TUN icon, ind tion, Mercearia doubles up venues. If jam-packed clubs aren’t g in w V o T h r for ou at will be s hes as a bookshop and video rental your cup of tea, grab a table at bars th Cup matc joint. Order a beer at the bar inside one of the microbreweries and bars World ig screens – you’ll be waiting at least an hour for boasting long lists of speciality on b TVs or a table in the evening. Rua Rodésia 34, beers; head down to Rua Augusta for Vila Madalena (11 3815 7200/mersome gritty late-night fun; or walk to the ceariasaopedro.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. nearest corner for an ice-cold beer at a boteco, Open 11am-midnight Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Brazil’s simple, traditional watering holes. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$13.

HIPSTER HANGOUTS

PRESS IMAGE

Astronete This rough-edged, garage-minded rock ‘n’ roll club promises a dark atmosphere, ’60s B-movie décor and a mixed schedule of nights

Z Carniceria Start your night out on Baixo Augusta at this converted butcher’s shop. Rua Augusta 934, Consolação (11 2936 0934/zcarniceria.com.br). Open 7pm1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-mid-

SÃO CRISTÓVÃO

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FOOD & DRINK

BAR ORIGINAL

night Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$16; cover R$30 (Thu-Sat).

BOTECOS Bar Original An old-school-style boteco, Original has the feel of a joint that’s been serving cold chopes (draught beer) and top bar snacks since time immemorial. Rua Graúna 137, Moema (11 5093 9486/baroriginal.com. br). Open 5.30pm-2am Mon-Wed; 5.30pm-3am Thu, Fri; noon-3am Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices chope R$6.20; caipirinha R$16.50. Bar do Biu Famed as much for its hearty food as its lively young crowd, Bar do Biu is a good thirst-quencher after a visit to the Saturday flea market at nearby Praça Benedito Calixto. Don’t miss the baião de dois – a NorthEastern rice-and-jerky dish. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros (11 3081 6739/bardobiu. com.br). Open 11am-6pm Mon, Tue; 11am10pm Wed-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$13.

Bar do Juarez The table-top mini grill for steak make this a popular spot for an older crowd. Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (11 5052 4449/bardojuarez.com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$6.60; caipirinha R$16. Other locations Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (11 3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (11 3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (11 3969 4988). Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city from afar, Frangó is a São Paulo mecca for fried chicken and craft beer. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (11 3932 4818/frangobar.com.br). Open 11ammidnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$8.30; caipirinha R$14. São Cristóvão This cosy, football-themed bar with a low-key regular crowd is set at the heart of Vila Madalena’s bustling bar scene. Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena (11 3097 9904). Open noon-2am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$13; cover R$25 (Mon only).

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FOOD & DRINK

PUBS AND MICROBREWERIES All Black An upmarket take on the pub concept, All Black sports a black façade, dark wood throughout the interior and two big screens on which football matches are broadcast. Rua Oscar Freire 163, Jardim Paulista (11 3088 7990/allblack.com.br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 6pm-1.30am Thu; 6pm-2am Fri, Sat. Prices half pint of beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$15-$45. Cervejaria Nacional Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below at this microbrewery-cum-bar, or head up to the top-floor dining area to find a cosier spot. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (11 3628 5000/cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices pint of beer R$15; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0-$12.

O’Malley’s Reminiscent of the chain pubs you find inside London railway stations, this big, noisy bar is just as popular with locals as it is with expats. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (11 3086 0780/omalleysbar.net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon-4am Sun. Prices pint of beer R$7-$20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 10pm). The Blue Pub Handily located just a block from Avenida Paulista, The Blue Pub has an array of good imported bot-

Take 3… Bars near the metrô

ANTONIO RODRIGUES/PRESS IMAGE

BAR NUMERO

MAURO HOLANDA/PRESS IMAGE

Dublin Dublin is an Irish pub with a Brazilian twist, serving chope and caipirinhas alongside pints of Guinness. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 178, Vila Olímpia (11 3044 4149/dublin.com.br). Open 6pm-late, TueFri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$16; cover R$10-R$60.

Bar da Dona Onça Follow the leopard prints to a seat inside this trendy resto-bar, on the ground floor of downtown’s landmark Copan building. To drink, make it a Caju Amigo – vodka with a cashew fruit compote (R$26). Rua Ipiranga 200, no. 27-29, República (11 3257 2016/ bardadonaonca.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Pé Pra Fora Crowds pack out the pavement tables on sunny afternoons at this no-frills bar. Don’t miss the Saturday feijoada, with its bubbling pots of pork-and-bean stew (R$78.20 for three people). Avenida Pompéia 2517, Perdizes (11 3672 4154/pepraforabar.com. br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Veloso The impressive choice of award-winning caipirinhas at this buzzing boteco is not for the indecisive. When it comes to food, however, the choice is easy – go for the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes). Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (11 5572 0254/velosobar.com.br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana or Ana Rosa.

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Cervelli

Brings the excitement back into the heart of São Paulo and presents:

The entire Brazil in one city! An unforgettable musical-show-dinner!

PROMOTION

During the World Cup, the Terra da Garoa created an exclusive package for those who are attending to watch the shows: Transfer Hotel / TG / Hotel + Welcome Drink (caipirinha) + T-shirt + Show + Dinner + Dessert! Sales: 55 11 3361 3538 www.terradagaroa.com.br www.ingressorapido.com.br

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FOOD & DRINK O’MALLEY’S

2893, Jardim Paulista (11 7881 2051/atnine. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8pm-late Wed-Fri; 9pm-late Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$22; minimum spend R$25-$60 (Fri, Sat).

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Bar Numero This swish, top-ranking bar is one of the sceniest places in Jardins, with a dramatic, Isay Weinfeld-designed interior and a sleek high society clientele to match. Rua da Consolação 3585, Jardim Paulista (11 3061 3995/barnumero.com.br). Open 7pm-late TueSat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$35; mimimum spend R$100-$200. tled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (11 3284 8338/thebluepub.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 3pm-3am Thu-Sat; 4pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$11; caipirinha R$14; minimum spend R$20-$40.

COCKTAIL BARS At Nine Perch up at the illuminated circular bar of this Jardins nightspot, where slick chillout beats and a dark leather-and-wood interior lend a ’90s designer-hotel-bar vibe. Rua da Consolação

SubAstor Located in the basement of the upmarket, gourmet boteco Astor, SubAstor is a ritzy, decadent red-and-black joint with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (11 3815 1364/barastor.com.br/subastor.com.br). Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thu; 8pm4am Fri, Sat. Noh Despite its ambitious cocktail list, Noh is more upscale Cheers than high-flying cocktail hangout. Rua Bela Cintra 1709, Jardim Paulista (11 2609 3673/nohbar.com.br). Open 6-11.40pm Tue, Wed; 6pm-midnight Thu; 6pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18; cover R$10.

LUCIANO MUNHOZ/PRESS IMAGE

CASA 92

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FOOD & DRINK

BARS WITH A VIEW Get a new perspective on the city while sipping a drink at one of São Paulo’s best rooftop bars, boasting don’t-miss, sky-high vistas

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TERRAÇO ITÁLIA

São Paulo can lay claim to many a superlative, but ‘most beautiful city’ is never going to be one of them -– not at street level, anyway. But venture to the top of one of its tall buildings and it’s almost impossible not to stop, draw breath and stare at the endless city that sprawls on and on in almost every direction. Gaze at the city in high style at Skye (Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4,700 Jardim Paulista, 11 3055 4732, skye.com. br), on the roof of the half-moon-shaped edifice that is the Hotel Unique. Skye has become a SP high point in more ways than one, flaunting all the glamour and polish you’d expect from one of the city’s most upmarket establishments. The bar, which opens to the public from 6pm – just in time for the summer sunset around 7.30pm – stretches out onto a large wooden deck alongside the pool, and looks out over the leafy treetops of Parque do Ibirapuera. For an intense, thrilling dose of urban vertigo, the rooftop bar at Terraço Itália (Avenida Ipiranga 344, República, 11 2189 2929, terracoitalia.com.br) is hard to beat,

boasting the city’s highest view, 168m high. This bar offers nigh-on 360 degrees of glass walls, and a surrounding walkway. For a close-up eyeful of the rainbow glow of Avenida Paulista’s TV and radio masts, head to The View Bar (Alameda Santos 981, Jardim Paulista, 11 3266 3692, theviewbar.com.br), thirty floors up, at the top of the Hotel Transamérica. A newer addition to the city’s rooftop selection is the 180m2 roof terrace at the more laidback, three-storey bar Alto da Harmonia (Rua Harmonia 271, Vila Madalena, 11 2528 1241, altodaharmonia.com.br). Peer through the telescope (luneta) to spot the transmission tower of TV Bandeirantes – a sky-high beacon, lit up purple at night, near Avenida Paulista. Or pull up a stool at the external bar or the upstairs glass-walled lounge at Adega Santiago (Shopping Cidade Jardim, 4th floor, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim, 11 3758 4446, adegasantiago. com.br), where the view looks east to Berrini’s gleaming towers of power, on the other side of the pungent Pinheiros river.

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FOOD & DRINK

RUBENS KATO/PRESS IMAGE

RIVIERA

NIGHTCLUBS Bar Secreto This small, exclusive club caters to fashionistas and hipsters, with a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. Rua Álvaro Anes 97, Pinheiros (barsecreto.com.br). Open 11pm6am Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$13; caipirinha R$20; minimum spend R$20-$100. Casa 92 Dance under the stars at this quirky 1950s house-turned-club. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (11 3032 0371/casa92.blogspot. com). Open 10.30pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$15; caipirinha R$21; cover R$0-$180. D-Edge Catering to a crowd of wild young things, D–Edge is dedicated to its underground electronic music. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (11 3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda Open midnight-7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$13; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30-$120. Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has an exclusive air, with high ceilings and décor inspired by 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs. But the real star of the show is the huge terrace, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé as

you mingle. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (11 3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com.br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$13; cocktails from R$31; cover R$40-$120. The Week This is the city’s undisputed king of the gay clubs, with an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (11 3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$11; caipirinha R$21; cover R$35-$70.

LIVE MUSIC Beco 203 Indie kids, hipsters and rockers mix on the crowded dancefloor, while the upstairs mezzanine provides a calmer view of the stage, which often hosts international rock and electro acts. Rua Augusta, 609, Consolação (11 2339 0351/beco203. com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$18; cover R$15-$80. Bourbon Street Music Club This New Orleansstyle bar is popular with monied paulistanos, who come for the live jazz and blues. Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema (11 5095 6100/bourbonstreet.com.

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FOOD & DRINK br). Open 8pm-late Tue, Wed; 9pm-late Thu-Sat; 8pm-late Sun. Prices chope R$8.80; caipirinha R$19; cover from R$50. Cine Joia This former cinema features elegantly sloping parquet floors that promote good views – even from the back – of indie rock bands, and excellent video mapping displays. Praça Carlos Gomes, 82, Liberdade (11 3101 1305/cinejoia. tv). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 11pm-late Fri-Sat (days vary – check website). Prices small bottle beer R$13; vodka with cranberry juice R$16. Ó do Borogodó This compact space is one of the best samba venues in town, and it opens every day of the week. Rua Horácio Lane 21, Pinheiros (11 3814 4087). Open 9pm-3am Mon-Fri; 1pm3am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$20-$25.

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Riviera The owners, nightlife kingpin Facundo Guerra and superchef Alex Atala, finally cut the ribbon for the long-awaited reopening of this bar in September 2013, revealing a stripped-down retro-styled venue for live jazz, fancy cocktails and gourmet bar food. Avenida Paulista 2584, Consolação (11 3258 1268/rivierabar.com.br). Open

noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-2am Fri; noon4pm, 8pm-2am Sat; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$21; cover R$35 (Fri, Sat).

WINE BARS Bardega A mostly post-work crowd gathers in this barn-like space to sample the range of almost 100 wines, on tap from the self-serve Enomatic dispensing machines that dominate the room. Rua Doutor Alceu de Campos Rodrigues 218, Itaim Bibi (11 2691 7579/bardegawinebar.com.br). Open 6.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$20; bottle of wine R$90-$3,000. Vino! Part wine emporium, part Italian restaurant, this casual spot’s centrepiece is a U-shaped bar, perfect for solo punters grabbing an after-work glass of wine and a bite to eat. Rua Professor Tamandaré de Toledo 51, Itaim Bibi (11 3078 6442/ lojavino.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon; 7pm11pm Tue; noon-11pm Wed, Thu; noon-11.30pm Fri, Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$19.

BARDEGA

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jardin s - sĂŁo pau l o

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WHITE PARTY

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FOOD & DRINK

WI-FI CAFÉS

MURILO LAIZA/PRESS IMAGE

OCTAVIO CAFÉ

Discover the best cafés for hopping on a free Wi-Fi wave over a cup of coffee Take your gadget of choice to one of these work-friendly Wi-Fi cafés, and kill your todo list and your caffeine craving in one go. Join the suits talking business over pastries and frothy lattes at spacious Octavio Café (Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2996, Itaim Bibi, 11 3074 0110, octaviocafe.com) – São Paulo’s powerbreakfast meeting point of choice, conveniently close to the gleaming office towers of Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima. From business centre to shopping centre, the newest branch of Suplicy (Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, Vila Olímpia, 11 3079 0461, suplicycafes.com. br) – a high-end local coffee chain – is in the luxury shopping mall JK Iguatemi, with comfy leather sofas, built-in tables and push-button table service. You can also buy freshly roasted coffees there, from interesting Brazilian microlots. Gourmet Brazilian coffee is also a big draw at Santo Grão (Rua Oscar Freire 413, Jardim Paulista, 11 3062 9294, santograo.

com.br), where abundant power sockets, speedy Wi-Fi and some of the best peoplewatching in town make this buzzy coffee house a good choice for an afternoon online. The newer Itaim branch (Rua Jeronimo da Veiga 179, Itaim Bibi, 11 3071 3169) has more daylight, plus outside tables, and a quieter mezzanine space inside. If you’re looking for a quiet corner in which to set up camp, head to the leafy backyard at the brightly painted Sofá Café (Rua Bianchi Bertoldi 130, Pinheiros, 11 3034 5830, sofacafe.com. br), on a quiet Pinheiros street.

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Shopping

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Markets & malls

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Friendly fairs, busy street markets and mega malls fuel São Paulo’s shopping addiction The running joke here is that while cariocas storm the beaches on holidays and weekends, paulistanos follow suit at the city’s malls, filing in for a browse round the shops, dinner, or a trip to the cinema. Just don’t expect to find many bargains: high prices tempt well-to-do Brazilians overseas for their purchasing requirements. Malls aside, there’s a handful of outdoor spots to explore on foot, too. Itaim is good for on-street shopping, as is Vila Madalena, with its scattering of boho boutiques. Watch out for weekly food markets (‘feiras de rua’) citywide; and hardened shoppers won’t want to miss the chaotic Rua 25 de Março street market, downtown – an open-air Aladdin’s cave where you’ll find all manner of goods, pirated and authentic.

SHOPPING MALLS Anália Franco Anália Franco, which opened in 2012, houses department stores (C&A, Renner, Zara), electronics stores (Fast Shop), and homewares (Camicado, MMartan, Tok & Stok), plus a range of specialised shops for babies and children. There are also BareMinerals and Sergio K shops, a Studio W hair studio, and a Companhia Athletica gym. The cosy food court has an America restaurant and an Outback Steakhouse, plus a nine-screen cinema, complete with IMAX. Avenida Regente Feijó 1739, Tatuapé (11 2643 4520/shoppinganaliafranco. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays. Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, which was designed by David Libeskind in 1958. Innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops, the complex is home to the large and welcoming bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Livraria Cultura. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a daily reference for paulistanos. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (11 3179 0000/ccn.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Cidade Jardim The three restaurants that opened here in late-2012 have reaffirmed this shopping centre’s association with haute cuisine, featuring Franco-Italian cooking at Rive Gauche Cuisine, contemporary Italian at Sottovento, and Spanish-Portuguese dishes at Adega Santiago. One of the city’s premiere shrines to luxury, the swish mall features shops like Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc, Red Valentino and Carlos Miele; and don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, arguably the finest chocolate shop in town. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (11 3552 1000/shoppingcidadejardim.com). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays. Galeria do Rock A downtown haven for rockers, punks and emos, the architecturally gorgeous ‘Gallery of Rock’ is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to music-centric pursuits such as bootlegged band T-shirts and rare vinyl records. Other sections of the compact shopping centre, built in 1963, specialise in skateboarding equipment, screen printing supplies and tattoos. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (11 99515 9233/ portalgaleriadorock.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat.

MARKET PLACE

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Shopping

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curta a nossa página: facebook.com/shoppingcenter3

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TADEU PEREIRA/FLICKR

SHOPPING

SHOPPING

GALERIA DO ROCK

JK IGUATEMI

(11 3816 6116/iguatemisaopaulo.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays. JK Iguatemi The new JK caters to São Paulo’s chic elite, featuring some of the city’s top restaurants, shops of the likes of Bulgari and Gucci, and the first Brazilian branches of Sephora and London’s Topshop. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (11 3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-10pm MonFri; 10am-10pm Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

DANIELA TOVIANSKY/PRESS IMAGE

Market Place A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, this mall also has an excellent food court, with a huge variety of options. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Brooklin (11 3048 7000/marketplace.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Iguatemi Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. are just some of the designer dreams on display in the city’s oldest shopping mall, alongside Brazilian high-fashion brands like Rosa Chá and Maria Bonita. The food court has sophisticated snack options like Gero Caffé and Caffé Armani, as well as charming branches of Ritz, Le Jazz and the Rodeio steakhouse. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano

Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its first-floor gym (Companhia Athletica), as well as for its branch of the FNAC bookstore, which hosts music shows, art events and book releases. The food court has gourmet restaurants including La Pasta Gialla and Barbacoa steakhouse. Brazilian brands Animale, Gloria Coelho and Spezzato are also worth a look. Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Brooklin (11 4003 4132/morumbishopping.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

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SHOPPING Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista – located at the iconic avenue’s eastern end – is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily interested in midday trips to the food court, while families flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Bela Vista (11 3191 1100/shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Top Center This shopping centre is a great option for those around Avenida Paulista. Casual urban fashion is catered for by stores such as M.Officer, Any Any, AnaCapri, Havaianas, O Boticário and Hering, amongst others. It also offers a range of services aimed at tourists, which include a currency exchange bureau and travel agencies (CVC and H.I.S. Turismo). Avenida Paulista 854, Bela Vista (3145 1819/topcentershopping.com.br). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm (food court 11am-9pm) Sun and holidays.

ley. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (11 3047 6002/scvilaolimpia.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun and holidays.

MARKETS Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (‘Feira da Liberdade’) This weekly market, held in SP’s emblematic Japanese neighbourhood, offers a vast range of Asian fast-food treats at reasonable prices. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (11 3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun.

FEIRA DA LIBERDADE

THAYS BITTAR/TIME OUT

Vila Olímpia. This new mall is popular with the executive crowd working in the nearby banks and corporate towers. Though small, it’s home to a wide variety of stores, a good selection of jewellery and accessories shops, a food court, a sevenscreen Kinoplex cinema and a six-lane bowling al-

TUCA REINES/PRESS IMAGE

SHOPPING IGUATEMI

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SHOPPING

DON’T GO HOME WITHOUT … Read on for a selection of our favourite local gifts and souvenirs, and where to find them

HAVAIANAS

You can buy the best-loved of Brazilian flip flops at any number of local shops, but this flagship store has by far the biggest choice. Pick up a pair with your national colours, or customise them at the ‘MYOH’ (‘make your own Havaianas’) booth. Rua Oscar Freire 1116, Jardim Paulista (11 3079 3415). Open 10am-8pm, Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sunday. Prices R$12.90-$230.90.

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Crocheted cushions and bags woven from capim dourado (a golden grass) are just two of the creative handmade pieces, made using artisanal techniques by craftspeople from all over Brazil, on sale at the charming Casa da Vila. Rua Capitão Cavalcanti 82, Vila Mariana (11 5575 2757). Open 10am6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-3pm Sat.

TASTY TREATS

From cachaças to regional fizzy drinks, bottled butter and popular homemade sweets, Mercadinho Dalva e Dito – an annex of the eponymous restaurant – is a foodie’s delight. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (11 3068 4444). Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun.

PRESS IMAGES

BRAZILIAN COFFEE Pick up a bag of the really good stuff at Coffee Lab, such as a 250g package (R$17-$78) of the coffee shop’s house blend, or in the form of beans from interesting microlots. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340, Vila Madalena (11 3375 7400). Open 10am8pm Mon-Sat.

FOOTBALL JERSEY To stand out from the football crowd, pick up a vintage version of your national team’s jersey at Liga Retrô (R$79.90$149.90), whose shops and stalls are proliferating in shopping malls all over town. Locations citywide (ligaretro.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun.

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SHOPPING

MERCADO MUNICIPAL

Feira do MASP Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the dusty gems to be found at this scenic market underneath the hulking body of the MASP art museum. Although the prices can be surprisingly high, only one-of-a-kind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun.

Feira da República Running continuously since 1956, this open-air centre has 600 stands and a wide selection of food, including Japanese yakisoba; acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian shrimp treat; and run-of-the-mill hot dogs. There is also a large open-air gallery where local artists sell paintings. Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun.

Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto This Saturday market sells bric-à-brac and antique furniture – stay on your guard though, as some of the latter are copies – as well as vinyl, clothes and jewellery. It’s busiest in the afternoons, when live music kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing gay scene arrives to animate the square’s bars and cafés. Stalls are up early until late in the afternoon, but try to get there before 4pm. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.com.br). Open 9am-7pm Sat.

Mercado Municipal The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying a colourful array of native and exotic fruits and vegetables. The famous bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with its melt-in-your-mouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite. Have it in pastry form at Hocca Bar, or from myriad shops in the labyrinthine market. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (11 3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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São Paulo Essentials EMERGENCIES Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Tourist police) Rua da Cantareira, 390, Centro, (11 3297 4475/11 3130-4417).

For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 11 2661 0000, hcnet.usp. br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 11 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br. AVENIDA PAULISTA

FELIPE BORGES/FLICKR

HEALTH

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with English-speaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 11 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 11 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br). For more English-speaking specialist legal services try CTA Law (Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 1931, cj. 52, Jardim Paulistano, 11 2361 9022, ctalaw.com.br).

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil. Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, some will only dispense limited amounts after 10pm. LOST & STOLEN CARDS

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary in Brazil to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of any notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable-looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out a camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid areas where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly, and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

TELEPHONES DIALLING & CODES Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eightdigit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo and selected other cities now have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by

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ESSENTIALS Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo. MOBILE PHONES European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT ARRIVING & LEAVING By air Guarulhos International Airport (GRU; 11 2445 2945, aeroportoguarulhos.net), also known as Cumbica, is São Paulo’s major international

airport. GRU is located 40 kilometres (25 miles) from the city centre and is served by major domestic and international airlines. Guarucoop (11 2445-2945/gru.com.br) runs a taxi service from outside the arrival area. Rates are fixed and range from R$75 to R$130 depending on the neighbourhood you are going to. For R$36.50, there’s also an airport shuttle bus (0800 7702287, airportbusservice.com.br) with services that stop in São Paulo’s central neighbourhoods, major hotels, and the Tietê bus terminal (metrô access). The most budget-friendly (and timeconsuming) option is to take bus 257 from the airport to Tatuapé metrô (R$4.45). São Paulo’s other major airport, Congonhas (CGH; 11 5090 9000, aeroportocongonhas.net), serves domestic flights and is just 8 kilometres (5 miles) from the city centre. Your transportation options from CGH are the same as above: taxi (R$30-$40), shuttle bus (R$36.50), or public transport (R$3). Located 99 kilometres (62 miles) outside São Paulo, near Campinas, is Viracopos-Campinas airport (VCP; 19 3725 5000, viracopos. com.br). The airport is mostly used for cargo transport, but the airline Azul (4003 1118, voeazul.com.br), runs passenger flights from here to many Brazilian cities. The website toandfromtheairport.com pro-

JORGE ARAUJO/FOLHAPRESS

CONGONHAS AIRPORT

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vides detailed information about getting to and from the airports. By bus There are three main bus terminals in São Paulo, all connected by metrô. The largest bus station is Rodoviária do Tietê (Avenida Cruzeiro do Sul 1800, 11 3866 1100), which serves international destinations and most destinations to the north. This is the station you are most likely to use if you take any long-distance buses in Brazil. Some buses going to southern and southwestern destinations leave from Rodoviária da Barra Funda (Rua Auro Soares de Moura Andrade, 664, 11 3866 1100), as well as from Rodoviária do Jabaquara (Rua dos Jequitibás, 11 3866 1100). Unfortunately, there is no centrally organised website listing times and routes of domestic and international buses. A search on SOCICAM (socicam.com.br), however, will show which bus companies serve which destinations; and many private bus companies operate their own websites. These sites can be useful for finding information; but without a CPF (Brazilian social security number), you will probably be unable to make a purchase online. Instead, tickets can be bought at the ticket

window in the bus station. Tickets are likely to sell out during the World Cup, so it is a good idea to purchase in advance. PUBLIC TRANSPORT São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans.com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps. Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$15 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours. City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use

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ESSENTIALS Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand. Central Táxi 11 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 11 5072 4499

Metrô Each metrô line is identified by a colour and a number. A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled ‘Bilheteria’. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.40am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

DRIVING Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm.sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

Avis 11 3256 0411/avis.com Budget 11 2445 4345/budget.com Hertz 11 2246 4300/hertz.com Localiza 0800 979 2000/localiza.com Movida 11 3075 8686/movida.com.br

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi, 99Taxis or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic metres, and fares start at R$4.10. Each additional kilometre costs R$2.50. After 8pm and on Sundays, the price per additional kilometre will be 30 per cent higher. Most taxis don’t

CYCLING There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closed-off roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br). To rent a bike, the Bike Sampa (bikesampa.com) scheme has more than 100 pick-up points throughout the city. To use the service, you’ll need to register online first (for which foreigners will need to give their passport number), providing credit card details and a R$10 deposit. Book a bike by telephone (11 3298 8811) or via the smartphone app (bikesampa.com.br/app), selecting the bike ID number at the chosen pick-up point, operational between 6am and 10pm. Trips of up to 60 minutes are free, provided there is a 15-minute interval between uses. After the first 60 minutes, bikes cost R$5 every 60 minutes.

BIKE SAMPA

PRESS IMAGE

WALKING Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians. MOBILITY ISSUES São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (11 3289 3814, goinsaopaulo.com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org.br) provides information on accessibility in public places. Time Out São Paulo 85

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timeout.com.br This guide was created by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer, 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brazil. Tel +55 (11) 3071-3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Executive Editor Catherine Balston Editors Rafael Argemon, Fabiana Caso, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack, Christine Puleo Proofreaders Marina Monzillo, Karen Shapiro Listings Gracita Kerr

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Design Art Director Bia Gomes Designers Luciana Benatti, Marcella Franco Print Production Marcus Vinicius Lopes

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Advertising (11) 3071 3309 ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

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Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309 ext. 18 Marketing and New Business Director Virginia Castro

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Administration Finance Manager Sueli Maria da Silva

Time Out Brazil products are published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain. No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all. Printed in Brazil by IBEP Gráfica

Cover photography Shutterstock

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6月12日 (木)

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ウルグアイ

開幕戦

1時

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グループB チーム3

7月1日 (火)

グループ F 1位

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グループ E 2位

ラウンド16

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1時

グループD チーム3

6月26日 (木)

チリ

グループB チーム2

?

4時

グループD チーム1

6月23日 (月)

オランダ

6月19日 (木)

5時

vs

グループH チーム1

韓国 グループH チーム4

7月9日 (水)

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準々決勝 勝利チーム

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準決勝

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BECO DO BATMAN

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TIAN

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MANI

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深夜食 3選

Paris 6 夜もオープンしているカフェやベーカリーは、味がそ

こそこの場合が多いが、 ここは本物。 サンパウロ唯一

の眠らないレストランといっても過言ではないだろう。 住所 Rua Haddock Lobo 1240, Jardim Paulista (11 3085 1595/paris6.com.br).

Rex Restaurante 早朝3時でもバーガーとフライドポテト以外を食べた

いときに。 この風変わりなレストランではフィレミニョ

ンとグラスワインが朝4時まで楽しめる。

住所 Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (11 2506 7386/rexrestaurante.com.br).

Sujinho 長い歴史を誇る有名ステーキハウス。 かつての顧客層

に敬意を示していまだに親しみをこめて 『娼婦のバー』

と呼ばれている。 朝5時までオープン。

住所 Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (11 3231 1299/sujinho.com.br)

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TEMPLO DA CARNE MARCOS BASSI

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ZUCCO

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FOGO DE CHÃO

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BETH COZINHA DE ESTAR

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駅に近いバー 3選

Bar da Dona Onça ヒョウ柄プリントの椅子が目立つ、 流行のレストランバ

ー。 ダウンタウンのランドマーク、 コパンビルの一階に

入っている。 ウォッカとカシューフルーツのコンポートカ

クテル、 カジュ・アミーゴ (R$26)はトライする価値あり だ。 住所 Rua Ipiranga 200, no. 27-29, República

(11 3257 2016/ bardadonaonca.com.br) 地下 鉄3号線 República駅

Pé Pra Fora 日曜の正午になると外にテーブルが置かれ、人で賑

わう気さくなバー。国民的料理の豚と豆の熱々シチ

ュー、 フェイジョアーダは必ずオーダーしよう(2~3

人前 R$78.20) 住所 Avenida Pompéia 2517, Perdizes (11 3672 4154/pepraforabar.com. br) 地下鉄2号線 Vila Madalena駅

Veloso 各賞を受賞したカイピリーニャを多種揃えているボ

テコ。メニューの多さに目移りしてしまう。クリーミ ーなコシーニャ (鶏肉のコロッケ)はマストだ。住所 Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (11

5572 0254/velosobar.com.br) メトロ1号線 Vila Mariana or Ana Rosa

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O’MALLEY’S

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OCTAVIO CAFÉ

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SHOPPING IGUATEMI

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CONSULATES Countries in the 2014 FIFA World Cup ALG – Algeria/‫رئازجلا‬ SHIS – QI 9, Conjunto 13, Casa 01, Lago Sul, Brasília (61 3248 4039/embaixadadaargelia.com.br).

ARG – Argentina Avenida Paulista, 2313, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3897 9522/sanpablo.argentinaconsul.ar).

AUS – Australia Alameda Santos, 700, 9º andar, Conjunto 92, Jardim Paulista, São Paulo (11 2112 6200/brazil.embassy. gov.au).

BEL – Belgium/België Avenida Paulista, 2073, 13º andar, Conjunto Nacional 1303/1310, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3145 7500/ diplomatie.be/saopaulonl).

BIH – Bosnia Herzegovina/ Bosna i Hercegovina 2109 E Street NW, Washington, DC, USA (+1 202 337 1500/bhembassy.org).

CHI – Chile Avenida Paulista, 1009, 10º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3284 2044/chileabroad.gov.cl/sao-paulo).

CIV – Côte d’Ivoire Avenida Paulista, 2006, 10º andar, Conjunto 1004, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3253 3308/cotedivoire.org.br).

CMR – Cameroon/Cameroun SHIS – QI 15, Conjunto 14, Casa 17, Brasília (61 3248 5403/embcameroun.org.br).

COL – Colombia Rua Tenente Negrão, 140, Conjunto 92, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo (11 3078 0322/saopaulo.consulado.gov.co).

CRC – Costa Rica Rua Canadá, 107, Jardim América, São Paulo (11 3062 5348/embajadadecostarica.com.br).

CRO – Croatia/Hrvatska Rua Doutor Ernani Pereira, 98, Vila Nova Conceição, São Paulo (11 3068 9716/mvep.hr).

ECU – Ecuador Rua Funchal, 411, Conjunto 34, Vila Olímpia, São Paulo (11 2769 7828/embequador.org.br).

ENG – England Rua Ferreira de Araújo, 741, Pinheiros, São Paulo (11 3094 2700/gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-consulate-general-sao-paulo).

ESP – Spain/España Avenida Brasil, 948, Jardim América, São Paulo (11 3087 2600/exteriores.gob.es/consulados/saopaulo).

FRA – France Avenida Paulista, 1842, 14º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3371 5400/saopaulo.ambafrance-br.org).

GER – Germany/Deutschland Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2092, 12º andar, Jardim Paulistano, São Paulo (11 3097 6644/brasil. diplo.de).

GHA – Ghana SHIS – QL 10, Conjunto 08, Casa 02, Brasília (61 3248 6047/mfa.gov.gh).

GRE – Greece/Ελλάδα Avenida Paulista, 2073, 23º andar, Conjunto 2303, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3251 0675/mfa.gr/saopaolo).

HON – Honduras Rua da Consolação, 3741, 3º andar, Conjunto 32, Jardim Paulista, São Paulo (11 3088 2993/sre.gob.hn).

IRN – Iran/‫ناریا‬ SES Avenida das Nações, Quadra 809, Lote 31, Brasília (61 3242 5733/brasilia.mfa.ir).

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ITA – Italy/Italia Avenida Paulista, 1963, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3549 5699/conssanpaolo.esteri.it).

JAP – Japan/ Avenida Paulista, 854, 3º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3254 0100/sp.br.emb-japan.go.jp).

KOR – Republic of Korea (South Republic)/ 한국 Avenida Paulista, 37, 9º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3141 1278/bra-saopaulo.mofa.go.kr).

MEX – Mexico/México Rua Holanda, 274, Jardim Europa, São Paulo (11 3576 5400/sre.gob.mx/saopaulo).

NED – Netherlands/Nederland Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 1779, 3º andar, Jardim Paulistano, São Paulo (11 3811 3300/saopaulo. nlconsulaat.org).

NGA – Nigeria SEN Avenida das Nações, Lote 05, Brasília, (61 3208 1700/nigerianembassy-brazil.org).

POR – Portugal Rua Canadá, 324, Jardim América, São Paulo (11 3084 1800/consuladoportugalsp.org.br).

RUS – Russia/Россия Avenida Lineu de Paula Machado, 1336, Cidade Jardim, São Paulo (11 3814 4100/sao-paulo.mid.ru).

SUI – Switzerland Avenida Paulista, 1754, 4º andar, Bela Vista, São Paulo (11 3372 8200/eda.admin.ch/saopaulo).

URU – Uruguay Rua Estados Unidos, 1284, Jardim Paulista, São Paulo (11 2879 6600/emburuguai.org.br).

USA – United States

Rua Henri Dunant, 500, Santo Amaro, São Paulo (11 3250 5000/saopaulo.usconsulate.gov). 137

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Revista Time Out SP - EN-JP - Ed.41/jun. 2014