CHAPTER II
SPECIES
Coyote and Snow Storm, Yosemite National Park The USA has 52 national parks, out of which my favourite is Yosemite. The valley is only 7 miles long and one mile wide but is enclosed by one mile high vertical cliffs from which cascade numerous waterfalls. The park is open all year round although between December and April the eastern entrance to the park, the Tioga Pass, is closed. Yosemite is a popular tourist destination and so the best time to visit is spring or late summer. In late summer the trails may be a little quieter and cooler. In spring the environment is a little unpredictable and the valley may be hit by the occasional snow storm, or bathed in pleasantly warm sunshine, during which times the melting snows of winter shows the waterfalls at their best.
16,306 the number of animal & plant species on the endangered list 25 the percentage of all mammals facing extinction over the next 30 years
Yosemite after Spring Snowfall This photograph was taken from ʺInspiration Point”, which lies at the eastern end of the Wawona tunnel on Highway 41. Perhaps the most spectacular view of the valley though is from Glacier point, which can be found on top of a 3200‐ foot vertical cliff face. Glacier point can be reached by a trail that starts at the west end of the valley or by car ‐ look for the Chinquapin turn off on Highway 41. In winter the road is ploughed as far as the Badger Pass Ski area and Glacier Point can be reached via skis or snowshoes only.
A Trophy the name given to a bear murdered by a man’s gun $5,000 – the cost for a grizzly bear $30,000 – the cost for a polar bear A Show the name given to dolphins and whales performing in captivity for human entertainment A Pet the name given to a parrot kept in a cage ‐ 800,000 parrot chicks are taken from the wild each year
Since its introduction, the US Wild Bird Conservation Act, which bans imports of threatened parrots, has cut poaching by 30% ‐ similar legislation is needed in Europe and Japan Sport what some people call fox hunting, where a pack of hounds mutilates a living animal. Although illegal in the UK there are still those who want it to be re‐introduced
El Capitan, Yosemite Rock‐climbers from all over the world come to scale the vertical walls of Yosemite. Climbers can be seen ‘camping out’ part way up the ascents, some of which take 3 days. If you prefer more leisurely pursuits, there are some fabulous hikes, namely Half Dome (17 miles one way), Upper Yosemite Falls (7 miles one way) and Vernal & Nevada Falls (7 miles one way). If you want to camp in the backcountry you will need a free permit. Permits are limited so to get one you will need to queue up early at the park ranger’s station the day before you plan to hike.
The Mountain Gorilla
the largest of the great apes and one of our closest relatives, known to man since 1902
670 the number of mountain gorillas left in the wild
Why? deforestation, trade in bush meat and disease:
Gorillas are closely related to humans with similar anatomical and physiological features making them vulnerable to many of the same diseases. As they have not developed the necessary immunities, contact with humans carrying infection can be devastating
Half Dome, Yosemite The accommodation in Yosemite is not to the same high standards as its surroundings. The best accommodation is the campground at Upper Pines or the wooden huts of Yosemite Lodge. There is one hotel in the valley, or alternatively you can find accommodation outside of the Valley. As with other National Parks in the US you can book in advance, for Yosemite this mean booking a year in advance. .
Orang‐utans
are native only to the vast islands of Sumatra and Borneo
are among the 10 most threatened animals in the world
Their population declines by 10% each year ‐ 20,000 have perished in the last 5 years
Their habitat is being destroyed to make may for palm oil crops
With 90% of their habitat gone, orang‐utans stray into palm oil crops in search of food, they are seen as pests and killed
Babies are often poached and sold in the pet trade, in the act the poachers often kill or maim the mother 2020 the estimated year for when no forest will remain outside the protected areas in the upland wilderness of Borneo
The island of Sanibel & Captiva lies off the southwest coast of Florida. Although the Island is not a national park, it represents what Florida once was and could be again. Its has 16 miles of unspoilt beaches that are ranked 3rd in the world for shelling, 25 miles of paved bike paths, and 70% of its land is a Wildlife Refuge. Sanibel’s character though comes in part from what it doesn’t have – street lights, billboards, fast‐food joints and high‐rise buildings. In December 1992 McDonalds announced they were to build and paid $571,000 for a plot of land. A protest group known as McSpoil was formed and by August 1993 there was so much resistance that the island outlawed the building of any drive‐ throughs and McDonalds pulled out.
The Wetlands of Florida
90 the percentage of wading birds lost from Florida
The highest point in Florida is 350 feet and can be found in the North West. Water drains from this point towards the South West of the state. This flow of water helped create the Everglades, an area rich in wildlife. However as water has been diverted to support large populations in the east such as Miami, the Everglades have suffered, and so to have the birds, alligators, panthers and other wildlife that depends on this habitat. Although the ‘Everglades Restoration Scheme’ aims to increase the flow of water back to the Everglades, the area faces a further major catastrophe ‐ Golf courses. There are over 1319 golf courses in Florida and going against advice, the development of new courses are tearing up S.W. Florida. One cannot help feel a little cynical about the names of some of these Golf courses: Wilderness Country Club Wildflower Country Club Gator Creek Golf Club Panther Wood Golf Club Pelican Preserve Golf Club Manatee County Club
Good wildlife can be found almost anywhere on Sanibel & Captiva. This Little Blue Heron (left) and Yellow‐Crowned Night Heron (right) were spotted from the bridge as I approached Bowman’s Beach. Of all of the beaches on Sanibel, the wildness of Bowman’s beach places it at the top of my list. Other great beaches include Turners Beach, the Lighthouse Beach and the long stretch of sand that runs alongside the main accommodation area off West Gulf Drive. All of these beaches provide great opportunities for wildlife viewing, shelling and swimming ‐ gently sloping sea floors keep the waters shallow and waves calm, and with an average temperature of 78 degrees Fahrenheit the beaches are ideal for all ages. Low tide is the best time for shell collecting and wildlife viewing.
Marine Ecosystems
40 the percentage of the world’s oceans strongly affected by human activity, and few area’s remain untouched
In the UK only 2% of the coastline and 1% of the seabed is protected
75 the percentage of global fish stocks fully uses, overused or in crisis
53 the number of countries failing to adhere to international fishing codes ‐ 1,000,000 tonnes of sea creatures discarded in UK 2005‐2007 Bottom trawlers destroy 40 tonnes of coral in the North Pacific each year 100,000 Albatrosses killed each year from long‐line fishing lines Plastic bags on average a plastic bag is used for 20 minutes 1000 years the time it takes for a standard bag to degrade 100,000 marine animals are killed every year by choking on plastic bags
The highlight of Sanibel is the J.N. ‘Ding’ Darling National Wildlife Refuge, a 6,400‐acre federal wildlife refuge. It is one of the top 10 bird‐watching areas in the US and 230 species can be found here. The prime season is winter when migratory birds are at their peak. The refuge also has 50 species of reptiles & amphibians and 32 species of mammals. The refuge can be explored by foot, bicycle, car and guided tram, but the best way to explore is by Kayak, which can be rented from Tarpon Bay Explorer’s. The refuge is open 6 days a week, and is closed on Fridays.
Sharks 344 the number of different species of shark
like other wildlife have amazing ability to survive natural disaster. In 2004 as Hurricane Charlie approached the west coast of Florida tagged sharks swam far out into the ocean for protection
7 The number of human deaths a year that result from shark attacks
100,000,000 the number of sharks killed per year by humans, either accidentally in nets or for shark fin soup
32 the percent of shark and ray species facing extinction
Arches National Park Situated in the South‐East of Utah, Moab is a rather unassuming and small town. However, it hides many great secrets ‐ on one side of the town can be found Arches National Park, and close by lies Canyonlands National Park. Moab is also known for its extreme sports and has some of the best mountain biking and white water rafting in the world. Close to Moab the mighty Colorado River doubles its forces as it joins with the Green River, and at the junction begins a stretch of the Colorado River known as Cataract Canyon, which carves a deep 100‐mile‐long chasm through the heart of Canyonlands National Park. Calm stretches of river wind through soul‐stirring canyons and dazzling geologic formations. Cataract Canyon boasts 28 separate rapids as it guides you downward through one of the Colorado’s steepest stretches. The best time to run the river is May through early July; trips must be booked well in advance of travel.
WHALES Humpback whales 115,000 ‐ the number of humpbacks in 1900 28,000 ‐ the number of humpbacks in 2005 Pacific Grey Whales 100 ‐ the remaining number of Pacific Grey Whales Great Whales (all species) 30,000 ‐ the number killed since the commercial whaling ban (1986) 1,500 ‐ the number of whales that will be slaughtered this year The whale meat often ends up in fish markets or restaurants Methods of slaughter are used that date back to the 19th Century ‐ grenade heads explode on harpoons, this does not often kill the whale and so it hoisted up the side of the boat leaving the whale’s blowhole under water until the whale slowly drowns Norway, Japan and Iceland are mainly responsible for the hunting and these countries are trying to lift the international ban on whaling for ‘scientific’ reasons
Delicate Arch, Arches National Park Arches National Park preserves over two thousand natural sandstone arches, including the world‐famous Delicate Arch and Landscape Arch, which with a span of 88 metres makes it the longest in the world. Other extraordinary features of the park include balanced rocks, fins and pinnacles, which are highlighted by a striking environment of contrasting colours, landforms and textures. Most of the sights you will want to see are visible from the paved roads running through the Park, but to appreciate their magnificence leave your car and take a short walk along the well‐marked footpaths. Self‐guiding booklets can be obtained from the visitor’s centre.
The Savannah The African elephant 1,300,000 ‐ the number of African Elephants in 1970 301,000 ‐ the number of African Elephants in 2001
CITES has banned trading in Ivory ‐ not all countries support the ban. In central Africa elephants are increasingly killed for meat The Black Rhino 20,000 ‐ the number of Black Rhino’s in Kenya in 1970 540 ‐ the number of Black Rhino’s in Kenya in 2005 On the black‐market the horn of a Black Rhino is worth 3 times its weight in gold Out of Africa only 3200 tigers remain in the world, this is 5% of the number 100 years ago. In the last century we have lost 3 of the 9 tiger sub‐species
Kayaking by Moonlight, Canyonlands National Park Canyonlands National Park preserves a colourful landscape of sedimentary sandstones eroded into countless canyons, mesas and buttes by the Colorado River. As well as exploring the park by raft or kayak, some chose to mountain bike. The Moab Slickrock Bike Trail is well known as one of the nationʹs superior mountain bike trails; other great trails include the Monitor & Merrimac, Gemini Bridges and Hurrah Pass trail. Summer temperatures around Moab often exceed 100 F and late summer brings violent storm cells that cause dangerous flash floods. The best times to visit are April through May and mid‐September through October when daytime highs average 60 to 80 F.
My Back garden
Of course wildlife is not just about something you see on holiday, it is all around us. The back garden is something that the English are proud of. To the naked eye it is neat and tidy, but to the wildlife that once lived there it is a hostile green desert. 20th century gardening provides little to support our wildlife. There are few places left for wildlife to hide and the planting of non‐native trees and exotic flowers provides little encouragement for the wildlife to return. The same is true of the one rich countryside that used to surround us. 284 & 289 the respective number of insect species supported by native Oak and Silver Birch trees Sycamore, Horse & Sweet Chestnut, Japanese Cherries are non‐native trees that support very few insects 98 the percentage of our wildflower meadows we have destroyed in the last 50 years 50 the percentage of our ancient lowland woods we have destroyed in the last 50 years
Geyser and Forest Fire I quote ‘preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within said park’ and ‘to prevent the wanton destruction of fish and game’ ‐ President Ulysses S. Grant, 1st March 1872 as he signed a bill that was to create Yellowstone, the world’s first National Park. The Yellowstone area was formed out of a collapsing volcano some 600,000 years earlier and is famed for its awe inspiring hot springs, geysers, mudpots, fumaroles, and abundant wildlife. Yellowstone provides refuge to bear, wolf, elk, mule deer, pronghorn antelope, otters and the last free roaming herd of bison (buffalo) in the US.
Animals in Captivity
In a survey of UK Zoo’s The Born Free Foundation found: 95 the percentage of the species that were not endangered. Less than 1% were endangered and had been released Have you ever seen ‘Shamu’ the killer whale at Sea World? 30 the number of year’s most captive orca (killer whales) live 80 the number of year’s wild orca may live The major cause for the decline in parrot’s is their capture for pets 145 The number of endangered parrot species 469,602 The number of parrot’s imported in the EU 1997‐2000
Grizzly Bear, Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone is home to both black and grizzly bears. Black bears can be black, brown, cinnamon or white but tend to be smaller and from the side have longer, thinner snouts than grizzlies, which tend to have a wider more concave face and a much more pronounced hump on the front shoulder. Yellowstone leaves me with mixed emotions. Some are of great excitement ‐ this was the first time I had seen a grizzly, but sometime sadness ‐ Yellowstone has been described as the ‘Disneyland’ of the animal kingdom. With an average of 30,000 visitors a day our disregard for wildlife is often visible. Tourists hound wildlife for close up photographs, of course if the animal reacts it may end up being destroyed. The massive forest fires of 1988 also resulted from human’s interference with nature following decades of misguided fire prevention policies.
Bears To many the bear is the symbol of the wilderness. Their ability at 30 mph to run faster than an Olympic Athlete, and their superior strength always makes one’s heart beat a little faster each time we see a bear. Yet in many ways bears resemble humans. They have five toes on each foot and are plantigrade, which means they walk with feet flat on the ground and are able to stand up. They have non‐ retractable claws that can be used somewhat like human fingers and they enjoy some of the same wild foods such as berries and salmon. Despite of their strength, bears are rarely a threat to humans. In fact with the passage of time they have become very wary of humans and try to avoid contact. A bear tends only to attack if it feels threatened, which is particularly the case if it fears for the safety of its cubs. There are 8 species of bear. In the Northern Hemisphere are the American Black, Brown, Polar and Asiatic Black Bear. In the Southern Hemisphere exist the Giant Panda, Sloth, Spectacled and Sun Bear. Brown Bears can be divided into the Eurasian Brown Bear of Europe, North American Coastal Brown and their slightly smaller inland relation, the Grizzly Bear. Unfortunately our admiration of this great animal has not been enough on its own to stop the immense suffering of the bear. Of the 8 species only the American Black Bear has a stable population, the others are declining. Even the future of Polar Bear is in threat, as the ice caps melt it becomes more difficult for the bears to hunt for its main food source, seals. In the US 1,200 Grizzly Bears remain in lower 48 states, where they once numbered 100,000. The Sloth and Spectacled Bears barley cling on for survival, while only 1600 Giant Panda Bear’s remain and of these only 61% live in protected reserves. Yet it is the story of the Asiatic Black Bear that is the most disturbing.
Lower Yellowstone Falls, Yellowstone National Park Lower Yellowstone Falls is best viewed from Inspiration Point. Other areas of great interest include Lower, Mid and Upper (Old Faithful) Geysin Basin’s, Morning Glory and Mammoth Hot Springs. Yellowstone has several visitor centres but the main one is the Albright Visitor Centre at Mammoth Hot Springs. Summer temperatures are often in the upper 70’s F. May to September are the best times to visit. Winters are very cold with snowstorms, which can also occur in the spring and fall. Campsites must be booked in advance or arrive early to ensure a well‐placed site. Alternative accommodation such as cabins and hotels also need to be booked well in advance.
In China, Korea and Vietnam bear farming is threatening the future of the Asiatic Black Bear. The farming is one of the worst forms of cruelty. Tens of thousands of bears are kept alive in tiny cages and subjected to painful, invasive surgery to extract bile from their gall bladders. The bile is sold to satisfy an illegal international trade in traditional medicine, the profits of which exceed US $100 million globally. A WSPA study of Chinese Medicines Shops in major US cities found that 91% of them sold bear bile products.
Yellowstone is at its best away from the crowds, this may be at dawn or dusk or on one of its 85 trails. Amongst the best day trails are Mount Washburn, Bunsen Peak, Beaver Pond with its good wildlife viewing opportunities, and the descent to Seven Mile Hole with its spectacular views of the Yellowstone Canyon. Overnights hikes require permits, which can be picked up from the visitor centres. Higher elevations may have snow cover even in summer.
The tide can be turned Increasing areas of land are being protected
Lake Chad, Africa’s 4th largest is now fully protected
Species are being re‐introduced ‐ wolves were reintroduced into Yellowstone in 1995, there are now 124
Over the last 10 years the population of the Savannah Elephants in East Africa has increased
The numbers of Green Turtles in the South Atlantic have increased 3 fold since 1970
Bear dancing has been banned in Greece and Turkey
Ecotourism is increasing ‐ the income from whale watching is £700 million/year, far more than from killing them
The Teton Range and Snake River, Grand Teton National Park The Grand Teton National Park lies only 60 minutes south of Yellowstone and should not be overlooked. The park has breathtaking scenery, wildlife hiking and rock climbing. Although the Snake River has sections of class III rapids within reach of the Grand Teton area, the real highlight of the river is a leisurely float trip – in two hours I counted 19 bald eagles. Trips can be organised from outfitters in Jackson Hole and Moose Village. Much of the accommodation is centred around the village of Jackson Hole, which itself is worth a visit, and Jackson Lake. The National Park Service runs five campgrounds from which the pick is probably Jenny Lake.
Wildlife Corridors Although more national parks are being created, this on its own is not enough. Most wildlife can’t read signs telling them they are at a park boundary. Hence while blissfully munching on some berries on a bush just outside of the park boundary, they are unaware that are about to be exterminated by a ‘man’ pointing a gun at its head while hiding behind a bush 100 yards away.
The other problem is that like humans, animals need to interbreed to maintain the genetic health of the population. The islands created by national parks leads to increased inbreeding, which leads to increased levels of disease within a species.
The solution is to allow protected wildlife corridors to link areas of national parks and other reserves to enable such migration. Such schemes are being developed in parts of Africa, and in North America an ambitious scheme is gaining in support. If developed the ‘Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative’, will stretch 3,207km from the state of Wyoming in the US to the Arctic Circle, and encompass 1.2 million km squared of land, rich in wildlife.
The message is clear
If we wish nature to survive inside parks, we must also ensure its survival outside
Bull Moose, Grand Teton National Park The Grand Teton National Park is a major destination for rock climbers and mountaineers. It also affords good opportunities for mountain biking, horseback riding and of course hiking. There are over 200 miles of hiking trails, much of the hiking here is steep. The Jenny Lake Trail provides a pleasant lakeside walk and access to Cascade Canyon and a high country loop return through Paintbrush Canyon. Another favourite is Rendezvous Mountain; the summit can be reached by the Granite Canyon Trail or by aerial tram. From the summit are several short trails. The hike to the summit is a full day hike but offers good wildlife viewing opportunities – I was sitting watching beaver when this Bull Moose unexpectedly strolled in front of me, glanced sideways and proceeded into the lake. Bull Moose can weigh up to 725 Kg and should normally be given wide berth.
Back down to Earth with a bang
The WWF Living Planet Index (LPI) measures the change in status of over 4000 terrestrial, fresh water & marine species Between 1970 and 2005 the LPI declined by 27% During the same period the demands made by human activity increased by 70%
Unless we change our ways the earth faces its sixth mass extinction