A World on the Brink

A WORLD ON THE BRINK

Acknowledgments I would like to thank all the following who have given me the inspiration to write this book: All those who work for the World Wildlife Fund For Nature (WWF), The World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA), Friends of the Earth (FOE) and Greenpeace.

Sir David Attenborough My beautiful wife Deborah My mother, father, brother, sister, grandma Bertha and Lisa Most of all, my daughter Madeleine and my son Jacob

Contents Foreword Chapter I

Ancient Forest

Chapter II

Species

Chapter III

Climate Change

Chapter IV

Oil Wars

Chapter V

Planet Earth – The Multinational Corporation

Chapter VI

A Climate of Injustice

Chapter VII

The Future – What Does it Hold?

Foreword Why is it that we largely ignore the destruction of the environment of which we are a part, and on which our future depends? Food, clean water, medicines and protection from hazards, both natural and those related to human conflict are important ingredients in maintaining our security and quality of life – yet their continued availability is increasingly under threat as a result of the unsustainable lifestyle of those people who predominantly live in the developed world.

In some ways we are a loving and caring society, exemplified by how we nurture our children. If we look beyond our own doorstep though, this is not the case – the way in which we in the developed world choose to live is having a devastating impact on the rest of the world, with mass suffering of both humans and wildlife.

At the extreme our behaviour can be likened to that of the Schistocerca Gregaria, commonly known as the Desert Locust. During quiet periods called recessions, Desert Locusts live in harmony with their surrounding environment and take only what they need. But under optimal ecological and climatic conditions they enter the gregarious phase during which time locusts congregate into thick, mobile, ravenous swarms devastating crops and cause major agricultural damage and attendant human misery famine and starvation.

Is my statement that likens human behaviour to that of locust unfair? That is for you to decide but parallels can easy be drawn with our financial markets, which move us between periods of recession and gregarious phases, which we call economic growth. During recessions the consumers, you and me, become more self-sufficient and spend less money, which is good for the environment. But during periods of economic growth we become gregarious, taking far more than we need and causing untold damage to the environment.

The statement is also easy to quantify. The Living Planet Index (LPI) uses population trends in species from around the world to assess the state of global diversity and tracks nearly 4000 populations.

Between 1970 and 2005 the LPI declined by 27%, and thirty-five species become extinct every day in the tropical rainforests, extinct meaning forever. In terms of forest coverage, the equivalent area of thirty seven-football pitches is lost every minute.

Another measure of human activity is the Ecological Footprint, which measures human demands on the biosphere to produce resources and absorb carbon dioxide. In 2003, the most recent year for which there are data, humanity’s total footprint exceeded the productive capacity of the biosphere by 25%. In other words we are using up earth’s natural resources a lot quicker than they can be replaced. Unfortunately once harvested many of the resources cannot be replaced, it is not possible to simply cut down rainforests and replace them like for like.

Unchecked, our behaviour is going to have an adverse impact on all of us. Food supplies will be affected, even in the developed world - more than 50 % of global fish stocks are already fully exploited and 25 % overexploited, depleted or recovering from depletion. According to some scientists, commercial fishing will be no longer viable by 2048. As many as 50 % of our prescription drugs are based on a molecule that occurs naturally in a plant – our search for new medical cures continues to diminish as we destroy increasing amounts of our rainforests. Travel will become more expensive and less enjoyable as the natural world continues to disappear.

Of course the impact of deforestation and climate change is going to be felt more so in the developing world. Presently a child dies every twenty seconds in the developing world as a result of water-related disease, by 2050 it is expected that 2.8 billion people will live in water-stressed areas.

Perhaps most disturbing those is our reliance on oil and the western governments’ attempts to cover up the reasons as to why we have chosen to go to war in Asia as opposed to in Zimbabwe or Rwanda, where in 1994 657,000 civilians were murdered in the space of 4 months. The reasons certainly are not to make our ‘homelands’ safer or to reduce opium on the streets of the UK – the main threat to our own

security is from the radicalization of young Muslims that has resulted from our invasion of their mother countries, as for opium its production in Afghanistan has increased 150% between 2001-2007. Instead, the reason for choosing our wars is energy, this is definitely no conspiracy theory – the Caspian states in central Asia contain the biggest untapped reserves of oil and natural gas in the world. With oil starting to dry out in many other parts of the world any nation wishing to remain a serious player needs to have a foothold in this region. Russia already has a strong foothold as does Iran – Afghanistan in the South and East of the region occupies a pivotal position and stability in this area, requiring removal of the Taliban, would enable the U.S. to access this vast energy reserve.

As a doctor of medicine I like to think I am doing good for others, but when I step outside of my own world I know I am as much to blame as the other 700 million ‘middle class’ citizens of the developed world who are responsible for more than half the worlds CO2 emissions and depletion of much of the natural world. Even in the field of medicine the National Health Service (NHS) is responsible for more than 25% of the UK’s industrial CO2 production, and we welcome medical staff from developing countries, hence, further taking away from their capacity to deliver healthcare.

The behaviour of the human species has changed. We used to cherish family from young to old age, be content with what we needed to live on and go to war only to protect our country. Now we live beyond our means, expect society to look after the elderly and go to war to protect our energy supplies so we can go on living an unsustainable way of living. Unless we change our ways the human race will fail itself and all the other species in the one and only world we have.

I love life and have no intention to give up those things that I have a passion for, such as skiing and travel, but I am prepared to give enough back to the environment to afford me life’s luxuries, the question is - are you?

Dr Tim Cunliffe, 1st Jan 2014

CHAPTER I ANCIENT FOREST

Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks - Banff National Park, Canada The Canadian Rockies stretch 1500km from Southern Alberta to the Yukon Border. The region is rich in wildlife and blessed with towering snow-capped peaks, forests and turquoise lakes - so coloured by glacial silt that absorbs all colours of light except those in the blue-green spectrum. The pinnacle of the Rockies is Moraine Lake with its spectacular scenery and great hiking opportunities in the form of short walks along the lake, to Consolation Lake, or day hikes through places such as Paradise Valley - its name says it all. Moraine Lake is 13 km from Lake Louise Village, which provides an unspoilt stay for those fond of the great outdoors. The other main lake in the region, Lake Louise is definitely worth a visit but is much more crowded and somewhat spoilt by the oversized Chateau Lake Louise.

4560000000 the number of years that the earth has been in existence 200000 the number of years since the origin of the modern day human 40 the number of years it has taken the human species to destroy almost 30% of the world’s natural resources (1970-2010)

Sundance Canyon Trail and Bow River - Banff National Park Banff Townsite (Banff) is the ‘capital’ of the Canadian Rockies and can be found on all the main tourist routes. However other than having natural springs and providing a nice array of restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops, there is not a lot else to do in Banff. The cliental says it all, only 1% of Banff’s tourist’s stray more than 1km from the road. There are some nice shorts walks around Banff, in particular the Marsh Loop Trail (2km) and Sundance Canyon Trail (3.7km) that start at the Cave and Basin Centennial Centre, and provide good opportunities to see grazing herds of elk. The latter trail provides a paved walking and cycling route along the Bow River and can be extended to include a loop that takes you through the impressive Sundance Canyon.

Earth’s ancient forests are diverse

Rainforest Tropical Mangrove Boreal Temperate Coniferous Broadleaf

2/3 of the world’s land based plants & animals live in ancient forest

Lake Minnewanka in winter Banff National Park

Lake Minnewanka means ‘Lake of the Water Spirit’. It is the largest body of water in Banff National Park and the only lake that allows boat trips.

In the summer herds of Bighorn Sheep frequent the area, but they are not the only locals who visit the lake. As the summer advances the mighty Grizzly Bear descends from the high alpine regions to feed on the ripe berries that surround the lake. During such times it is not unusual to find some of the trails around the lake closed.

The forests are the lungs of the earth converting toxic carbon dioxide into oxygen, a process that regulates the earth’s climate - rainforests absorb almost a 1/5 of the worlds man-made CO2 emissions each year 35,000 the number of plant species that we depend upon for our medicines Tree roots stabilise soil preventing erosion, flooding and landslides 1,200,000 a conservative estimate of the number of indigenous people living in Ancient Forest

Coyote, Bow Valley Parkway. Banff National Park The Bow Valley Parkway was the main road that connected Banff Townsite to Lake Louise Village prior to the construction of the highway. Many good hiking trials start from the Parkway, the most notable of the short trails being the Johnston Canyon Trail, and the best day hike is the spectacular Cory Pass Trail, which can be combined with the Edith Pass Trail to make a loop. The Parkway is also a good spot for wildlife viewing and even in the winter it is not unusual to see animals such as this Coyote patrolling the road. Wildlife is abundant in the Canadian Rockies, the best way of finding out where and how to view the wildlife is by asking the rangers in the Park Centres.

Tropical rainforests are paramount to the regulation of the global ecosystem and to the well-being of man are restricted to the small land area between the latitudes 22.5 degrees North and South of the Equator - 1/3 of the rainforests are in Brazil - 20% are in Indonesia and the Congo Basin Cover less than 2% of the Earth’s surface but house 50% of all life on the planet A single hectare (2.5 acres) of rainforest contains up to - 480 tree species -100 mammal and 300 bird species - 70 reptile species A single bush in the Amazon may have more species of ants than the entire British Isles

Yoho Valley, Yoho National Park Yoho National Park, established in 1886, was originally used by the Cree to hide their woman and children while the men crossed the mountains into Alberta to trade and hunt Buffalo. The park is broadly split into two main areas. The first is Yoho Valley & Emerald Lake, which offer some great sights and are more accessible for the casual visitor. The second area, Lake O’Hara, lies at the eastern edge of the park and is for the purists. Here a central lodge and campground offer unparalleled access to some awesome backcountry. In order to protect the mountain flora and fauna access to the Lake O’Hara area is restricted by way of a limited bus service, which needs to be booked some time before your journey in order to ensure a trip to this region.

The roots of deforestation Logging for timber and paper, unsustainable and often illegal - in some parts of South East Asia, Africa and Latin America up to 80% of all trees are cut down illegally Clearance for conversion to cattle pasture, speculation on rising land prices and plantations such as soy and palm oil - the UK imports 2 million tonnes of soy a year in order that our animals can be bred to grow fast Urbanisation and construction homes, roads and dams

Takakkaw Falls and Rainbows, Yoho Valley The name ‘Takakkaw’ is derived from the Cree and means ‘it is wonderful’. The falls have a drop of 254 metres and are easily accessed from the falls parking area, which is only 14 km off the Trans-Canada Highway. Accommodation in this region is limited and the area tends to be un-crowded. Yoho National Park has good access to the Kicking Horse River, which offers the best white-water rafting in the region.

80 the percentage of the earth’s ancient forests already destroyed by man 20 the percentage of the Amazon cleared since 1970 50 the percentage of Indonesia’s forests that have been destroyed over half of what is left is under threat - conversion of forest to palm oil plantations has increased six-fold since 1985 91 the percentage of Orang-utans lost - their home is the Indonesian Ancient Forest The African forests of the Great Apes used to stretch from Senegal to Uganda 85 the percentage of this habitat that is lost forever

Twin Falls in Yoho Valley

Most trails in the Yoho Valley area start from the Takakkaw Falls campground and car park. The trail to Twin Falls is 8.5 km one way.

There are six backcountry campgrounds in Yoho National Park Backcountry reservations are recommended and can be made at the park centre in Field.

2 seconds the time it is taking man to destroy an area of ancient forest the size of a football pitch.

An area of ancient forest larger than England is being destroyed every year Just a few thousand years ago, tropical rainforests covered as much as 12% of the earths land surface, today less than 5% is covered with these forests. On current estimates soy farming and cattle ranging will destroy 40% of the Amazon Basin by 2050 causing the extinction of 4,500 species 10 the percentage of the earth’s remaining ancient forest that is protected

Peyto Lake Lookout, Icefields Parkway The Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) is a 230km road from Lake Louise to Jasper, which cuts through the heart of the Rockies, and ranks high amongst the most scenic drives in the world. The Parkway is best known for the Colombia Icefield, which in my opinion is best viewed from a distance as organised trips to the Icefield are everything that Canada is not – busy and over commercialised. One of the many places that must be visited along the Parkway is Peyto Lake, which lies only 40km north of Lake Louise. A short walk from the well sign-posted car park takes you through a vibrant wildflower meadow to the lookout with stunning views of the lake and ragged Mistaya River Valley beyond.

And what about the developed world?

- it has already lost most of what it had 30 the number of countries in Europe with no remaining ancient forest Russia is home to Ÿ of the world’s forests.

It is being logged unsustainably - 35 percent of its logging is illegal 1 the percentage of the original Caledonian Forest that remains in Scotland 94 the percentage of ancient forests that have been destroyed in the USA

Parker Ridge, Icefields Parkway

Two of the best trials on the Icefields Parkway can be found close to its midpoint. The first is the Parker Ridge trail, a 2.4km one-way hike offering fantastic views of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

The other is the Wilcox Pass Trial, a 4km one-way hike that takes you through forest to a ridge with beautiful vistas of the Parkway, and access to alpine meadow beyond.

Zoonosis A disease that is transmitted from animal to man

There are 1415 known human infections ‌ 61 the percentage that are zoonoses

AIDS

SARS

BIRD FLU

The number of new zoonoses is increasing The cause - closer human contact with wildlife, resulting from encroachment into ancient forest

Athabasca Falls, Icefields Parkway

These impressive falls are found only 30km from Jasper.

Accommodation along the Icefields Parkway consists of 5 youth hostels, 12 park campgrounds and a handful of hotels, which tends to get booked up early.

Our remaining forests can be protected - the Brazilian government has recently committed to significant reductions in deforestation and aims to do more by raising $20 billion in donations from industrialised countries Logging can be sustainable FSC - Forest Stewardship Council a label on all wood products derived from sustainable, managed forests - 1 million hectares of forest in China are now certified under FSC We can be less wasteful 70 the percentage of logged wood that is unusable sawdust

Pyramid Mountain and Morning Mist, Jasper National Park Jasper National Park has a much wilder feel to it. The town of Jasper is much more laid back and less commercialised than Banff, and the parks backcountry is more extensive with 111 backcountry campgrounds, permits for which can be picked up at the Columbia Icefield or at the Park Information Centre in Jasper. Within close proximity to Jasper area, Lake Edith and Lake Annette have nice beach areas and are warm enough for swimming. An easy bike ride will take you to Patricia and Pyramid Lakes, two picturesque lakes that offer opportunities for canoeing, sailing windsurfing and horse riding.

Not logging can bring extra benefits to local populations ÂŁ600 the income from logging one hectare of rainforest ÂŁ4210 the income derived from the same hectare farmed for fruit, rubber, medicine and developed for ecotourism $60 billion the value of medicinal plants per year

Maligne Lake, Jasper National Park The main regions to explore around Jasper are Maligne Lake, Miette Hot Springs with its natural springs, and the Sulphur Skyline Trail (4 km one way). It is also worth a trip up the Mount Edith Carvell Road that leads to the Carvell Meadows trails and views of the Angel Glacier and Mount Edith Carvell. The road to Maligne Lake is rich in wildlife and the trial around Maligne Lake is a good place to see Moose. Other activities close to the lake include the Opal Hills trial (8.2km round trip), and a gentle introduction to white water rafting on the Maligne River.

Although multinational corporations such as Asia Pulp and Paper are responsible for much destruction, the fate of the remaining Ancient Forests rests heavily upon the people of the developed world The developed world continue to import illegal wood from the Amazonian & Indonesian Rainforest for use as timber and paper - not enough of us buy FSC wood products We continue to purchase palm oil and soy from poorly managed forest 15,000 the number of hectares of ancient Russian forest that Europe consumes each year The average US person consumes 15 times more wood than the average person in China 4,000,000,000,000 the number of tonnes of wood the paper industry will use annually by 2020

Mount Revelstoke National Park There are numerous other national parks in the Canadian Rockies such as Kootenay, Glacier and Mount Revelstoke. The latter is the smallest and most southerly national park in the region. Often over looked by many travellers, Mount Revelstoke has glorious displays of wildflowers that reach there peak in July and August. Ten official trails give excellent hiking opportunities but don’t forget your insect repellent.

137 the number of plant and animal species made extinct every day in the Amazon

50 the percentage of the Amazon rainforest that will be damaged or destroyed within 20 years if deforestation, forest fires, and climate trends continue

CHAPTER II SPECIES

Coyote and Snow Storm, Yosemite National Park The USA has 52 national parks, out of which my favourite is Yosemite. The valley is only 7 miles long and one mile wide but is enclosed by one mile high vertical cliffs from which cascade numerous waterfalls. The park is open all year round although between December and April the eastern entrance to the park, the Tioga Pass, is closed. Yosemite is a popular tourist destination and so the best time to visit is spring or late summer. In late summer the trails may be a little quieter and cooler. In spring the environment is a little unpredictable and the valley may be hit by the occasional snow storm, or bathed in pleasantly warm sunshine, during which times the melting snows of winter shows the waterfalls at their best.

689 the number of animals on the endangered list

25 the percentage of all mammals facing extinction over the next 30 years

Yosemite after Spring Snowfall This photograph was taken from "Inspiration Point�, which lies at the eastern end of the Wawona tunnel on Highway 41.

Perhaps the most spectacular view of the valley though is from Glacier point, which can be found on top of a 3200-foot vertical cliff face. Glacier point can be reached by a trail that starts at the west end of the valley or by car - look for the Chinquapin turn off on Highway 41. In winter the road is ploughed as far as the Badger Pass Ski area and Glacier Point can be reached via skis or snowshoes only.

A Trophy the name given to a bear murdered by a man’s gun $5,000 – the cost for a grizzly bear $30,000 – the cost for a polar bear A Show the name given to dolphins and whales performing in captivity for human entertainment A Pet the name given to a parrot kept in a cage - 800,000 parrot chicks are taken from the wild each year Since its introduction, the US Wild Bird Conservation Act, which bans imports of threatened parrots, has cut poaching by 30% - similar legislation is needed across the EU Sport what some people call fox hunting, where a pack of hounds mutilates a living animal. Although illegal in the UK there are still those who want it to be re-introduced

El Capitan, Yosemite Rock-climbers from all over the world come to scale the vertical walls of Yosemite.

Climbers can be seen ‘camping out’ part way up the ascents, some of which take 3 days.

If you prefer more leisurely pursuits, there are some fabulous hikes, namely Half Dome (17 miles one way), Upper Yosemite Falls (7 miles one way) and Vernal & Nevada Falls (7 miles one way).

If you want to camp in the backcountry you will need a free permit. Permits are limited so to get one you will need to queue up early at the park ranger’s station the day before you plan to hike.

The Mountain Gorilla the largest of the great apes and one of our closest relatives, known to man since 1902 790 the number of mountain gorillas left in the wild Why? Deforestation, trade in bush meat and disease Gorillas are closely related to humans with similar anatomical and physiological features making them vulnerable to many of the same diseases. As they have not developed the necessary immunities, contact with humans carrying infection can be devastating

Half Dome, Yosemite The accommodation in Yosemite is not to the same high standards as its surroundings. The best accommodation is the campground at Upper Pines or the wooden huts of Yosemite Lodge. There is one hotel in the valley, or alternatively you can find accommodation outside of the Valley. As with other National Parks in the US you can book in advance, for Yosemite this mean booking a year in advance. .

Orangutans Are native only to the vast islands of Sumatra and Borneo Are among the 10 most threatened animals in the world Their population has declined by 50% in the last 10 years Their habitat is being destroyed to make way for palm oil crops With 90% of their habitat gone, orang-utans stray into palm oil crops in search of food, they are seen as pests and killed Babies are often poached and sold in the pet trade, in the act the poachers often kill or maim the mother 2020 the estimated year for when no forest will remain outside the protected areas in the upland wilderness of Borneo

The island of Sanibel & Captiva lies off the southwest coast of Florida. Although the Island is not a national park, it represents what Florida once was and could be again. Its has 16 miles of unspoilt beaches that are ranked 3rd in the world for shelling, 25 miles of paved bike paths, and 70% of its land is a Wildlife Refuge. Sanibel’s character though comes in part from what it doesn’t have – street lights, billboards, fast-food joints and high-rise buildings. In December 1992 McDonalds announced they were to build and paid $571,000 for a plot of land. A protest group known as McSpoil was formed and by August 1993 there was so much resistance that the island outlawed the building of any drive-throughs

The Wetlands of Florida 90 the percentage of wading birds lost from Florida The highest point in Florida is 350 feet and can be found in the North West.

Water drains from this point towards the South West of the state. This flow of water helped create the Everglades, an area rich in wildlife. However as water has been diverted to support large populations in the east such as Miami, the Everglades have suffered, and so to have the birds, alligators, panthers and other wildlife that depends on this habitat.

Although the ‘Everglades Restoration Scheme’ aims to increase the flow of water back to the Everglades, the area faces a further major catastrophe - Golf courses.

There are over 1319 golf courses in Florida and going against advice, the development of new courses are tearing up S.W. Florida. One cannot help feel a little cynical about the names of some of these Golf courses: Wilderness Country Club Wildflower Country Club Gator Creek Golf Club Panther Wood Golf Club Pelican Preserve Golf Club Manatee County Club

Good wildlife can be found almost anywhere on Sanibel & Captiva. This Little Blue Heron (left) and Yellow-Crowned Night Heron (right) were spotted from the bridge as I approached Bowman’s Beach. Of all of the beaches on Sanibel, the wildness of Bowman’s beach places it at the top of my list. Other great beaches include Turners Beach, the Lighthouse Beach and the long stretch of sand that runs alongside the main accommodation area off West Gulf Drive. All of these beaches provide great opportunities for wildlife viewing, shelling and swimming - gently sloping sea floors keep the waters shallow and waves calm, and with an average temperature of 78 degrees Fahrenheit the beaches are ideal for all ages. Low tide is the best time for shell collecting and wildlife viewing.

Marine Ecosystems 40 the percentage of the world’s oceans strongly affected by human activity, and few area’s remain untouched In the UK only 2% of the coastline and 1% of the seabed is protected 75 the percentage of global fish stocks fully used, overused or in crisis 53 the number of countries failing to adhere to international fishing codes 1,000,000 tonnes of sea creatures discarded in UK 2005-2007 Bottom trawlers destroy 40 tonnes of coral in the North Pacific each year 100,000 Albatrosses killed each year from long-line fishing lines Plastic bags on average a plastic bag is used for 20 minutes 1000 years the time it takes for a standard bag to degrade 100,000 the number of marine animals killed every year by choking on plastic bags

The highlight of Sanibel is the J.N. ‘Ding’ Darling National Wildlife Refuge, a 6,400-acre federal wildlife refuge. It is one of the top 10 bird-watching areas in the US and 230 species can be found here. The prime season is winter when migratory birds are at their peak. The refuge also has 50 species of reptiles & amphibians and 32 species of mammals. The refuge can be explored by foot, bicycle, car and guided tram, but the best way to explore is by Kayak, which can be rented from Tarpon Bay Explorer’s. The refuge is open 6 days a week, and is closed on Fridays.

Sharks 344 the number of different species of shark Like other wildlife, sharks have amazing ability to survive natural disaster. In 2004 as Hurricane Charlie approached the west coast of Florida tagged sharks swam far out into the ocean for protection

7 the number of human deaths a year that result from shark attacks 100,000,000 the number of sharks killed per year by humans, either accidentally in nets or for shark fin soup 32 the percentage of shark and ray species facing extinction

Arches National Park Situated in the South-East of Utah, Moab is a rather unassuming and small town. However, it hides many great secrets on one side of the town can be found Arches National Park, and close by lies Canyonlands National Park. Moab is also known for its extreme sports and has some of the best mountain biking and white water rafting in the world. Close to Moab the mighty Colorado River doubles its forces as it joins with the Green River, and at the junction begins a stretch of the Colorado River known as Cataract Canyon, which carves a deep 100-mile-long chasm through the heart of Canyonlands National Park. Calm stretches of river wind through soul-stirring canyons and dazzling geologic formations. Cataract Canyon boasts 28 separate rapids as it guides you downward through one of the Colorado’s steepest stretches. The best time to run the river is May through early July; trips must be booked well in advance of travel.

WHALES Humpback whales 115,000 - the number of humpbacks in 1900 30,000 - the number of humpbacks in 2013 Pacific Grey Whales 130 - the remaining number of Pacific Grey Whales Great Whales (all species) 30,000 - the number killed since the commercial whaling ban (1986) 2,700 - the number of whales that will be slaughtered this year The whale meat often ends up in fish markets or restaurants Methods of slaughter are used that date back to the 19th Century - grenade heads explode on harpoons, this does not often kill the whale and so it hoisted up the side of the boat leaving the whale’s blowhole under water until the whale slowly drowns Norway, Japan and Iceland are mainly responsible for the hunting and these countries are trying to lift the international ban on whaling for ‘scientific’ reasons

Delicate Arch, Arches National Park Arches National Park preserves over two thousand natural sandstone arches, including the world-famous Delicate Arch and Landscape Arch, which with a span of 88 metres makes it the longest in the world. Other extraordinary features of the park include balanced rocks, fins and pinnacles, which are highlighted by a striking environment of contrasting colours, landforms and textures. Most of the sights you will want to see are visible from the paved roads running through the Park, but to appreciate their magnificence leave your car and take a short walk along the well-marked footpaths. Self-guiding booklets can be obtained from the visitor’s centre.

The Savannah The African elephant 1,300,000 - the number of African Elephants in 1970 600,000 - the number of African Elephants in 2013 CITES has banned trading in Ivory- not all countries support the ban.

In central Africa elephants are increasingly killed for meat 36000 the number of African elephants slaughtered in 2013 The Black Rhino 20,000 - the number of Black Rhino’s in Kenya in 1970 850 - the number of Black Rhino’s in Kenya in 2005 On the black-market the horn of a Black Rhino is worth 3 times its weight in gold Out of Africa only 3200 tigers remain in the world, this is 5% of the number 100 years ago.

In the last century we have lost 3 of the 9 tiger sub-species

Kayaking by Moonlight, Canyonlands National Park Canyonlands National Park preserves a colourful landscape of sedimentary sandstones eroded into countless canyons and buttes by the Colorado River.

My Back Garden Of course wildlife is not just about something you see on holiday, it is all around us. The back garden is something that the English are proud of. To the naked eye it is neat and tidy, but to the wildlife that once lived there it is a hostile green desert. 20th century gardening provides little to support our wildlife. There are few places left for wildlife to hide and the planting of non-native trees and exotic flowers provides little encouragement for the wildlife to return. The same is true of the one rich countryside 284 & 289 the respective number of insect species supported by native Oak and Silver Birch trees Sycamore, Horse & Sweet Chestnut, Japanese Cherries are non-native trees that support very few insects 98 the percentage of our wildflower meadows we have destroyed in the last 50 years 50 the percentage of our ancient lowland woods we have destroyed in the last 50 years

Geyser and Forest Fire I quote ‘preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonders within said park’ and ‘to prevent the wanton destruction of fish and game’ - President Ulysses S. Grant, 1st March 1872 as he signed a bill that was to create Yellowstone, the world’s first National Park. The Yellowstone area was formed out of a collapsing volcano some 600,000 years earlier and is famed for its awe inspiring hot springs, geysers, mudpots, fumaroles, and abundant wildlife. Yellowstone provides refuge to bear, wolf, elk, mule deer, pronghorn antelope, otters and the last free roaming herd of bison (buffalo) in the US.

Animals in Captivity In a survey of UK Zoo’s The Born Free Foundation found 95 the percentage of the species that were not endangered.

Less than 1% were endangered and had been released Have you ever seen ‘Shamu’ the killer whale at Sea World?

30 the number of year’s most captive orca (killer whales) live 80 the number of year’s wild orca may live For every wild animal captured and sold as a wild pet, many more may be killed or die during transit. Those that survive often suffer neglect or are abandoned when their owners find that they lack the necessary expertise to care for them or when the novelty has warn off

Grizzly Bear, Yellowstone National Park Yellowstone is home to both black and grizzly bears. Black bears can be black, brown, cinnamon or white but tend to be smaller and from the side have longer, thinner snouts than grizzlies, which tend to have a wider more concave face and a much more pronounced hump on the front shoulder. Yellowstone leaves me with mixed emotions. Some are of great excitement - this was the first time I had seen a grizzly, but sometime sadness - Yellowstone has been described as the ‘Disneyland’ of the animal kingdom. With an average of 30,000 visitors a day our disregard for wildlife is often visible.

Tourists hound wildlife for close up photographs, of course if the animal reacts it may end up being destroyed. The massive forest fires of 1988 also resulted from human’s interference with nature following decades of misguided fire prevention policies.

Bears To many the bear is the symbol of the wilderness. Their ability at 30 mph to run faster than an Olympic Athlete, and their superior strength always makes one’s heart beat a little faster each time we see a bear.

Yet in many ways bears resemble humans. They have five toes on each foot and are plantigrade, which means they walk with feet flat on the ground and are able to stand up. They have non-retractable claws that can be used somewhat like human fingers and they enjoy some of the same wild foods such as berries and salmon.

Despite of their strength, bears are rarely a threat to humans. In fact with the passage of time they have become very wary of humans and try to avoid contact. A bear tends only to attack if it feels threatened, which is particularly the case if it fears for the safety of its cubs.

There are 8 species of bear. In the Northern Hemisphere are the American Black, Brown, Polar and Asiatic Black Bear. In the Southern Hemisphere exist the Giant Panda, Sloth, Spectacled and Sun Bear.

Brown Bears can be divided into the Eurasian Brown Bear of Europe, North American Coastal Brown and their slightly smaller inland relation, the Grizzly Bear.

Unfortunately our admiration of this great animal has not been enough on its own to stop the immense suffering of the bear. Of the 8 species only the American Black Bear has a stable population, the others are declining. Even the future of Polar Bear is in threat, as the ice caps melt it becomes more difficult for the bears to hunt for its main food source, seals.

In the US 1,200 Grizzly Bears remain in lower 48 states, where they once numbered 100,000. The Sloth and Spectacled Bears barley cling on for survival, while only 1600 Giant Panda Bear’s remain and of these only 61% live in protected reserves. Yet it is the story of the Asiatic Black Bear that is the most disturbing.

Lower Yellowstone Yellowstone National Park

Falls,

Lower Yellowstone Falls is best viewed from Inspiration Point. Other areas of great interest include Lower, Mid and Upper (Old Faithful) Geysin Basin’s, Morning Glory and Mammoth Hot Springs.

Yellowstone has several visitor centres but the main one is the Albright Visitor Centre at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Summer temperatures are often in the upper 70’s F. May to September are the best times to visit. Winters are very cold with snowstorms, which can also occur in the spring and fall.

Campsites must be booked in advance or arrive early to ensure a well-placed site. Alternative accommodation such as cabins and hotels also need to be booked well in advance.

In China, Korea and Vietnam bear farming is threatening the future of the Asiatic Black Bear. The farming is one of the worst forms of cruelty. Tens of thousands of bears are kept alive in tiny cages and subjected to painful, invasive surgery to extract bile from their gall bladders. The bile is sold to satisfy an illegal international trade in traditional medicine, the profits of which exceed US $100 million globally. A WSPA study of Chinese Medicines Shops in major US cities found that 91% of them sold bear bile products.

Yellowstone is at its best away from the crowds, this may be at dawn or dusk or on one of its 85 trails.

Amongst the best day trails are Mount Washburn, Bunsen Peak, Beaver Pond with its good wildlife viewing opportunities, and the descent to Seven Mile Hole with its spectacular views of the Yellowstone Canyon.

Overnights hikes require permits, which can be picked up from the visitor centres. Higher elevations may have snow cover even in summer.

The tide can be turned Increasing areas of land are being protected Lake Chad, Africa’s 4th largest is now fully protected Species are being re-introduced - - wolves were reintroduced into Yellowstone in 1995, - there are now 117 Over the last 10 years the population of the Savannah Elephants in East Africa has increased The numbers of Green Turtles in the South Atlantic have increased 3 fold since 1970 Bear dancing has been banned in Greece and Turkey Ecotourism is increasing - the income from whale watching is £700 million/year, far more than from killing them

The Teton Range and Snake River, Grand Teton National Park The Grand Teton National Park lies only 60 minutes south of Yellowstone and should not be overlooked.

The park has breathtaking scenery, wildlife hiking and rock climbing.

Although the Snake River has sections of class III rapids within reach of the Grand Teton area, the real highlight of the river is a leisurely float trip – in two hours I counted 19 bald eagles.

Trips can be organised from outfitters in Jackson Hole and Moose Village.

Much of the accommodation is centred around the village of Jackson Hole, which itself is worth a visit, and Jackson Lake. The National Park Service runs five campgrounds from which the pick is probably Jenny Lake.

Wildlife Corridors Although more national parks are being created, this on its own is not enough.

Most wildlife can’t read signs telling them they are at a park boundary. Hence while blissfully munching on some berries on a bush just outside of the park boundary, they are unaware that are about to be exterminated by a ‘man’ pointing a gun at its head while hiding behind a bush 100 yards away.

The other problem is that like humans, animals need to interbreed to maintain the genetic health of the population. The islands created by national parks leads to increased inbreeding, which leads to increased levels of disease within a species.

The solution is to allow protected wildlife corridors to link areas of national parks and other reserves to enable such migration. Such schemes are being developed in parts of Africa, and in North America an ambitious scheme is gaining in support. If developed the ‘Yellowstone to Yukon Conservation Initiative’, will stretch 3,207km from the state of Wyoming in the US to the Arctic Circle, and encompass 1.2 million km squared of land, rich in wildlife.

The message is clear If we wish nature to survive inside parks, we must also ensure its survival outside

Bull Moose, Grand Teton National Park The Grand Teton National Park is a major destination for rock climbers and mountaineers. It also affords good opportunities for mountain biking, horseback riding and of course hiking. There are over 200 miles of hiking trails, much of the hiking here is steep. The Jenny Lake Trail provides a pleasant lakeside walk and access to Cascade Canyon and a high country loop return through Paintbrush Canyon. Another favourite is Rendezvous Mountain; the summit can be reached by the Granite Canyon Trail or by aerial tram. From the summit are several short trails. The hike to the summit is a full day hike but offers good wildlife viewing opportunities – I was sitting watching beaver when this Bull Moose unexpectedly strolled in front of me, glanced sideways and proceeded into the lake. Bull Moose can weigh up to 725 Kg and should normally be given wide berth.

Back down to Earth with a bang The WWF Living Planet Index (LPI) measures the hange in status of over 4000 terrestrial, fresh water & marine species Between 1970 and 2010 the LPI declined by 30% During the same period the demands made by human activity increased by 70%

Unless we change our ways the earth faces its sixth mass extinction

CHAPTER III CLIMATE CHANGE

Loch Lomond, Scotland Loch Lomond & The Trossachs is Scotland’s first National Park. The Loch itself is Britain’s largest inland waterway, measuring 22 miles long and up to five miles wide. Although there is plenty to do on and around the loch, the west side in particular gets very busy during the summer, whereas the east bank is tranquil and a great place for hiking.

The West Highland Way follows the loch’s east bank and from Rowardennan you can take in a relatively easy climb up Scotland’s most southerly Munro, Ben Lomond, where at 3,192 ft the views from the summit are spectacular.

Greenhouse Gases As the sun’s radiation hits earth some of it is reflected back towards space The greenhouse gases trap some of this energy and keep our planet warm 15 degrees Celsius The average global temperature of earth Minus 18 degrees Celsius The average global temperature if we did not have greenhouse gases The main greenhouse gases that regulate our climate are: Carbon Dioxide (CO2) Methane Nitrous Oxide Tropospheric ozone

The Trossachs The Trossachs lie to the east of Loch Lomond and are a superb walking area.

Ben Venue and Ben A’an are the most challenging peaks.

The region is also a good place to cycle and the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park has Britain's largest network of off-road cycle tracks. The relatively safe, quiet roads off the main routes also offer more leisurely family cycling and the track circumnavigating Loch Katrine is particularly picturesque.

The road between the villages of Aberfoyle and Callander takes you through Duke’s Pass, one of the most beautiful routes in the country.

Global Warming Earth’s temperature is rising faster than at any time in the last 10000 years The 10 warmest years on record have occurred since 1998 Spring is arriving 3 weeks earlier in the UK compared with 1975

Overwhelming evidence points to human activity contributing significantly to global warming

Ben More Botanic Gardens To the west of Loch Lomond lies the region of Argyll. Its mild climate, regulated by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, is in evidence at Ben More Botanic Gardens where there are 250 species of rhododendrons and a row of Giant Redwoods. In the southern aspects of Argyll the routes down Loch Riddon and to the village of Tighnabruaich are the most scenic in the region. In the northern parts of Argyll is the Argyll Forest Park, and the A83 that takes you from Loch Lomond to the historic village of Inverary through ‘Rest and be Thankful’, one of Scotland’s classic viewpoints. Further north along the A83 is Loch Awe with the ruins of Kilchurn Castle, and the beautiful Loch Etive.

The cause of global warming Clear evidence shows that the increase in greenhouse gases are responsible for global warming

The concentration of greenhouses gases are higher now that at any time in the past half million years 38 the percentage rise in CO2 since the pre-industrial times of 1750 148 the percentage rise in methane since 1750

Lismore Lighthouse and the Nevis Range On the west coast of Scotland lies the town of Oban. From here ferries run to many of the Scottish Isles including Mull, which remains my favourite. The scenic journey to Mull takes under an hour and passes by Lismore Lighthouse.

If travelling by car it is advisable to book ferries in advance. Mull is 25 miles in length, has outstanding and varied scenery, and some of the best wildlife in Europe. Over 200 species of bird have been counted including both the Golden Eagle and White-tailed Eagle, the latter has thrived since its re-introduction from Scandinavia.

Carbon dioxide 9.7 million metric tonnes the amount of CO2 produced per year as a result of human activity 100000 - the number of party balloons equivalent to one tonne of CO2 Deforestation and the burning of fossil fuels for the production of domestic electricity and for use in transport are the two leading causes of CO2 production Cars 200,000,000 – the number of cars worldwide in 1970 600,000,000 – the number of cars in 2000 1,200,000,000 – the number of cars predicted by 2030 A large 4-wheel drive produces 3 times more CO2 than a 1.3 litre car Aviation Emissions from planes is the fastest growing source of CO2 The meat and dairy industry account for 18% of the world’s climate changing gases. Factory farming needs massive amounts of soy for feed, which is grown in deforested areas of South America and Indonesia

Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull Calgary Bay on the north west of Mull is perhaps the finest beach on the island and lies within easy reach of the picturesque village of Dervaig. The main village on the island, Tobermory, is also found on the north of the island and is one of the prettiest ports in Scotland. The main focus of Tobermory is the brightly painted houses and shops that run along the harbour. From Tobermory a good road runs down the east coast through the pretty village of Salen and on to Duart Castle, which lies are at the south east corner of Mull. En route are some pleasant but easy walks including Aros Park and the Garmony Coastal Walk. A few miles north of the castle look out for the Mull Railway, a must for all children. This small train runs trips to Torosay Castle and Gardens, which are well worth a visit.

The impacts of global warming Increasingly severe regional weather events Human suffering Species extinction

The changes have already started.

In the developed world we have largely chosen to ignore them, perhaps because they are predominantly affecting the developing world?

Carsaig Bay, Isle of Mull The south and west of Mull has a much more rugged coastline, which is typified by the view from Carriage Bay. An excellent coastal walk heads west from the bay to Carsaig Arches and Nun’s Cave. The best beaches in this part of the island are Ardalanish Bay and Market Bay; the latter can only be reached on foot. Away from the coast Ben More dominates the view, which at 3,169 ft is the highest mountain on Mull. The trail up Ben More starts at a lay-by on the B8035 and views from the summit are spectacular. North of Ben more lays Loch Na Keal, which is a good place to look out for otter and sea eagle.

Severe regional weather events The number of major natural disasters have increased 3-fold since 1960 106000 the average number of people killed by natural disasters per year in the last decade Hurricane Katrina August 29th 2005 devastates New Orleans Typhoon Haiyan November 2nd 2013 kills over 5000 people in the Philippines El Nino is defined by a sustained increase in the sea surface temperature of the central tropical Pacific Ocean. When it occurs it affects climatic patterns around the world. The difference in the number of people affected by natural disasters during a post-El Nino year compared to a pre-El Nino year is 2.7% of the world’s population. El Nino related events have become more frequent and more intense in the past 20 years

Staffa A number of islands are in easy reach of Mull including Iona, Staffa, and the Treshnish Isles. Trips to the islands can be taken from the Ulva Ferry or Fionnphort. The Treshnish Isles and Staffa and uninhabited, the latter is a geologist’s paradise with amazing rock formations and caverns, of which Fingal’s Cave is the most impressive. The island of Iona has a small population and lies only a stone’s throw from Mull. Iona is best known for its Abbey but it does have some beautiful beaches at its northern end. The climate in Mull and the surrounding Isles is influenced

Drought 3,000,000,000,000 the number of people predicted to face water shortages

Africa, Latin America and Asia the regions expected to suffer most from climate change 70% of African people rely on rain-fed agriculture for their livelihood

Cholera and hepatitis A Increasing levels of water-borne disease

Human conflict?

Humans are already using more than half of the planet’s fresh water, by 2025 this could be more than 70% - some of the fastest growing human populations share major rivers: the Nile, Ganges, Jordan, Tigres-Euphrates

Puffin, Treshnish Isles Mull and the surrounding Isles is a region that is particularly rich in wildlife.

The seabirds are at their best on Lunga in the Treshnish Isles, which is a breeding ground for puffins, razorbills kittiwakes and guillemots.

Marine life includes Atlantic and grey seals, dolphins, mink whales, basking sharks and occasionally orca’s. ‘Sea Life Surveys’ based in Tobermory run trips to view the wildlife, the proceeds of which go to the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust.

The best place to spot otters is the east coats of Mull, south of Salen. Otters particularly like areas where fresh water streams drain into the sea.

North of Salen is well populated by seals, herons and oystercatchers.

With regards eagles if you spot something soaring in ever widening circles, then you are looking at one.

Wildlife Coral bleaching is caused by rising sea temperatures and is predicted to destroy much of the world’s coral reefs and marine life that depend on them within the next 30-50 years Polar Bears depend on the arctic ice to hunt for seals - with each year the melting starts earlier and the re-freezing begins later, meaning the polar bear’s hunting grounds are disappearing and so they do not have enough fat reserves to survive or rear their cubs.

The Arctic summer sea ice could disappear by 2030 And at the opposite pole in Antarctica a loss of sea ice is causing a reduction in the number of Adeline penguins Adaptation to global warming The human species has a better chance to adapt, many other species will simply disappear

Eilean Donan Castle On the mainland the roads north from Oban take you towards the spectacular scenery of Glen Coe and on past Ben Nevis. If time allows, a trip on the West Highland Railway that runs from Glasgow to Mallaig provides one of the most beautiful railway journeys in the world. The section west of Fort William is perhaps the most breathtaking but the stretch leading into Fort William from the east is also impressive. Back on the roads and further north still, Eilean Donan Castle can be found on the approach to the Isle of Skye. Originally built in 1230 by Alexander III the castle was destroyed in 1719 by King George during its occupation by the Spanish Jacobite forces.

No one will be a winner Global warming will have a detrimental effect even on the most affluent Travel will be less exciting are we further erode the natural world Skiing The alpine glaciers have lost more than half their volume since 1850, snow lines have receded up mountains by 180 metres in last decade Skiing may not be possible in lower level resorts in 15 years time - an estimated 75% of glaciers in the Swiss Alps will disappear by 2050 Insurance claims will rise significantly as a result of increasing adverse weather events Malaria-laden mosquito will become more common in the developed world as the ranges of disease vector’s increase 79 the percentage of economic loss from catastrophes that is blamed on climate change

The Cuillins, Isle of Skye The Isle of Skye has the most spectacular scenery of all the Scottish Islands, and in the Cuillin mountains the most spectacular hiking. Hiking in the Cuillins is not for the beginners, a choice of guiding operators and guided walks are available. The eastern part of the range is known as the Red Cuillins, which provide smoother conical peaks and is best accessed from the Sligachan Hotel. In contrast the Black Cuillins are jagged and provide the most challenging rock climbing. The Black Cuillins are reached from the road-end at Glenbrittle, where a path leads up from sea level to the base of the high slopes.

And that’s just the start - things could get a lot worse The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has been established by the World Meteorological Organization & the United Nations Environment Programme to help understand the cause of climate change and its potential impacts. The IPCC believe that if the average global temperature increases by more than 2 degrees Celsius the results could be disastrous. Such a climatic change will serve to induce the positive feedbacks of nature, which will accelerate global warming and lead to a dramatic change in ecosystems with severe consequences for human well-being and extinction of species on a massive scale. We have much to fear unless we act now, some of the many concerns relate to the following:

Economic expansion in India and China Methane Forest fires in the Amazonian Basin Global dimming Melting of the glaciers Major regional changes in climate – The conveyor belt theory

Ord, Isle of Sky The landscape of southern Skye is gentler and a good place to find a secluded holiday cottage, the best form of accommodation on the Scottish Isles. Ord is composed of a handful of cottages, offers spectacular views over to the Cuillins and has a bay frequented by seals. Syke has rich sealife with dolphins and whales, which can be seen from boat trips or sometimes spotted from the shoreline. It is also a good place to see Otter, especially at the Otter Haven near Kylerhea or around the village of Plockton, which lies on the mainland close to the Skye bridge. The island of Raasay, easily reached by ferry from Sconser is well worth a visit. This unspoilt place is a good place for sea kayaking, hiking and has a road, which running the length of the island and hugging the shoreline is a great place for a bike ride.

544 the number of new coal-fired power stations planned for China. Even with new carbon capture technology there are still massive concerns about the environmental impact of such large-scale developments

Methane 50% of the total increase in atmospheric methane has been due to human activity, mainly in the form of landfill and farming. Large quantities of additional methane are found under the permafrost and in the arctic ocean seabed - this frozen methane (methane hydrate) contains 170 times its own volume of methane gas. As global warming continues to melt the permafrost and arctic sea ice, ultimately large volumes of methane will be released in to the atmosphere. The sting in the tail is that weight for weight, methane releases 23 times more heat than CO2

Forest fires in the Amazonian Basin The Amazonian Basin has a massive impact on regulating our climate not only by absorbing CO2, but also by its direct cooling effect as plants convert heat into water vapour. Illegal logging is only one of the threats that faces the basin, the other is forest fire.

The earliest signs of forest fires have recently been reported in the Amazonian basin - as the climate warms up the rainforest will become drier and forest fires could spell the start of the end for what is left

Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness Loch Ness is the most famous of all the Scottish Lochs. The best base from which to explore this region is one of the villages close to the mid-point of the loch, my own favourite being Tomich. The village of Drumnadrochit is best avoided unless you have a like for tacky exhibitions about a certain monster. From here you are very close to Urquhart Castle, the beautiful Glens of Affric and Strathfarrar, and 15 miles away lies Inverness, the main town in the area. Inverness is a pleasant town and is situated on the Moray Firth, which has its own resident population of Bottlenose Dolphins. Many outfitters run trips to see the dolphins, although some such as ‘Ecoventures’ are more environmentally aware than others.

Global dimming In the summertime the sun moves north of the equator and subsequently raises the sea temperature at this latitude. The associated increase in the evaporation of water brings with it the summer rains of Ethiopia and the other countries of Sub-Saharan Africa.

For many years in the late 20th Century these summer rains failed. The reason was pollution from North America and Europe produced by power stations, which drifted over Sub-Saharan Africa. This ‘large-particle’ pollution collected lots of small water particles in their clouds. Small particles are more reflective than larger particles found in normal cloud formation and hence let less sun penetrate them.

The effect was a 10% reduction in sunlight, enough to prevent the necessary sea warming to produce the rain belt over Sub-Saharan Africa. Since the developed world has produced less large particle pollution the seas have warmed up and the rains have been more reliable.

Another example of global dimming came after 9/11. For 48 hours after this disaster planes in the US were grounded, the skies became less polluted and the mean temperature across the country increased.

The point is that the large particle pollution caused by man may be masking a faster rise in global temperature than we first thought so as we clean up our technologies the world may start to warm up more quickly

Glen Affrich, Invernesshire Glen Affric is one of the most scenically attractive areas in Scotland. A memorable blend of hill, loch, waterfalls and some of the best surviving examples of Scotland's ancient native Caledonian Forest. It is also rich in wildlife, which includes otter, pine martin, golden eagle, crossbill and red-throated diver. The Glen offers open water canoeing and has splendid, well marked hiking and mountain biking trails that are suitable for all ages. For the more energetic the Great Glen cycle route from Inverness to Fort William follows the forest trails, canal towpaths and quiet minor roads.

Melting of the glaciers The Arctic ice cap is melting - in the last 20 years an area 5 times the size of the UK has been lost and sea levels have risen by 10-25% over the last century 75 Million the number of people currently at risk from costal storm surge Arctic amplification Ice reflects light so the more we lose, the more exposed water there is to absorb the light, which is converted to heat. This raises the overall temperature hence accelerating the melting process Potentially all the Arctic ice could have melted by 2070 resulting in catastrophic rises in sea level and flooding. It could even melt before this as the Arctic ice is shrinking fast, at least a decade before it was predicted to happen. NASA researches found that between 2004-2008 overall Arctic sea ice thinned 67.8 cm and that the total area covered by thick older ice that survives one or more summers shrank 42 percent 13 The number of the world’s mega cities at sea level - all these people and more will be at risk when the ice cap melts

Bostadh Bay, Isle of Lewis.

Outer Hebrides The Outer Hebrides consist of a narrow 130-mile long chain of islands lying 40 miles off the northwest coast of Scotland.

The largest of the chain are the Isles of Lewis & Harris, which happen to be part of the same land mass.

Although the Isles can be reached by boat or plane, they really are remote.

The interior of the islands are bleak and most of the communities that live here can be found around the coastline. On Sundays the Isles literally shut down, and if it rains there really is little to do.

The secret of the Isles though is that they hide away some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. In summer the Machier (fields of wild flower) run onto brilliant white sandy beaches, which in turn are lapped by shallow turquoise waters of the Gulf stream.

The Conveyor Belt Theory Although some aspects of climate change are more predictable then others, global warming may eventually lead to disruption of world weather patterns with even greater consequences. One such possibility is the conveyor belt theory.

The latitude of much of NW Europe is such that our climate should be similar to that of Alaska, warm salt dense waters of the Gulf Stream however makes our climate much milder. When this dense salty water reaches the North Atlantic it cools, sinks and then flows back south to its origin, the cycle continues.

The concern is that excess water from melting ice caps and expanding rivers in Siberia are flowing southwards. As they run into the Gulf Stream they dilute the salt content, which is preventing this water from sinking back to the ocean floor and returning southwards. The cycle will shut down, the Gulf Stream will cease to exist and the climate of much NW Europe will be like that of Alaska. Studies show that the flow of water back to the gulf is lessening.

The conveyor belt also impacts on global climate, with the conveyor on it controls the seasonal monsoons that fuel growing seasons in broad swaths of Africa and the Far East.

With the conveyor off the monsoon areas will get drier.

Uig Bay – Isle of Lewis The most spectacular beaches can be found along the Uig peninsula, which lies at the South West of Lewis. My favourites beaches include Bostadh Bay, Uig Sands (Traigh Chapadail), Mangersta and Mealista. Accommodation along the Uig peninsula comes in the form of camping, cottages and at the top of my list is the Baile-na-Cille guesthouse in Timsgarry, from where the above photograph was taken. The hosts at Baile-na-Cille provide delicious home cooked food and knowledge of the island that is second to none.

The Kyoto Agreement The treaty was negotiated in Kyoto, Japan in December 1997 and came into force on 16th February 2005 194 countries have now ratified the agreement The agreement stated that the industrialised countries will reduce their collective emissions of greenhouse gases by 5.2% compared with 1990, calculated as an average over the five-year period of 2008-12 In 2012 came the Doha Amendment to the Kyoto protocol, which delivered a historic shift in principle establishing for the first time that rich nations should move towards compensating poor nations for losses due to climate change. However, the new agreement extended the Kyoto Agreement and did little to deliver genuine cuts in greenhouse gases

Calanais (Callanish) Standing Stones – Isle of Lewis The main historical site of interest on Lewis is the Calanais Standing Stones, which stand in the form of a Celtic cross and date back to 3,000 BC. Away from Lewis it is well worth a visit to Harris, which is hillier and provides some good walking, a number of beautiful beaches such as Luskentyre Beach and a drive along the beautiful Golden Road on the east of the island. Close to the Isles of Lewis & Harris lies St Kilda, which can be reached by boat and has some of the largest seabird colonies in Europe. As you might expect if it rains in this part of the world there isn’t a lot to do, and for your reference the driest month is May.

There are still many unknowns about climate change. However what we do know is that the adverse effects will almost certainly outweigh the benefits, and that human behaviour is very likely to be of the main causes.

Although a change in the average global temperature of just a few degrees does not sound a lot, the results are likely to be catastrophic. To put such change into context, the average global temperature during the last ice age was only 4-5 degrees cooler than it is today.

At the 2009 UN climate summit in Copenhagen little progress was made, and the events that took place underlined the massive challenge we are faced with to stop climate change. Our so-called world ‘leaders’ were puppets for big business and those with an interest in the environment were kept at arms length. What will come of the 2013 Warsaw summit remains to be seen.

If we are to tackle climate change we need to look at population control and the normal people of this word need to front a green revolution.

Of course, what if we are wrong and we go to considerable efforts to modify our behaviour to then find out we are not responsible for climate change?

Regardless, we still have much to benefit by retaining the remaining rainforests and reducing our dependency on fossil fuels.

CHAPTER IV OIL WARS - Democracy or the New Imperialism?

Aurlandsfjord, Norway Norway has 4.5 million inhabitants but yet a landmass of 385,155 sq Km of which 3% is cultivable and 25% covered by forests. Norway is perhaps best known for its spectacular fjords, which are predominantly found in the southwest of the country. The coastline of Norway is 2,650 Km long, but if you take in to account all the fjords this figure can be multiplied by 10. The typical rainy climate of Norway is surprisingly mild for its latitude and at the height of summer day time temperatures range between 16 and 20 degrees Celsius in the South. The precipitation in the fjords reaches its peak in September through December.

Oil has enabled the people of the developed world to have a high standard of living It feeds the power stations that generate energy for our homes and industry It provides fuel for transport that enables trade and tourism

Without oil our societies crumble 65% of our current energy supply comes from oil In September 2000 the UK came to a standstill with a blockade of ports, oil refineries and fuel depots due to protests of rising fuel costs. More than ž of the UK’s petrol stations ran dry, the National Health Service was on red alert and thousands of school children were sent home

Kjosfessen, Flambanen railway If you are limited for time the best way of experiencing the fjords is to take the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ tour. The tour starts at Voss, which can be reached by rail from either Bergen or Oslo.

From Voss a spectacular train ride known as the Flambanen Railway takes you to the pretty village of Flam.

At Flam a boat takes you through two of the most spectacular fjords in Norway, Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord, both of which are off Shoots of the much larger Sognefjord.

The Naeroyfjord is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. .

How much oil is left?

No one knows exactly how much oil is left, but it is on the decline Discoveries of new oil fields have declined in the last 40 years The problem is that as the world’s population increases the demand for oil will far out grow the amount we can supply The emerging markets of China & India now use more oil China’s energy demands are increasing by 10% per year Developing countries use twice as much oil to produce $1 of manufactured goods as a result of inefficient technologies 2015 The year that some forecasters are predicting that demand for oil will start to outstrip how much we can supply The cost of a barrel of oil in July 2010 was $75.58; in March 2011 it was $108 – although there will be peaks and troughs, the cost of oil is only going to increase over time

View from Stalheim Hotel The boat trip in the ‘Norway in a Nutshell tour’ ends at Guvavangan, where a comfortable coach journey takes you back to Voss through more stunning scenery. The stop at the Stalheim Hotel affords particularly impressive views.

The tour is available all year. Wrap up though as even in summer the cruise along the fjords can be a little cold.

The problems with oil Greenhouse gases Pollution from oil tanker spills and other accidents The massive BP oil spill in the gulf of Mexico is the latest catastrophe Dependency Oil shapes our economies, lifestyle and politics. As the reserves start to run dry we could face a stock market crash and economic meltdown unless we become less dependent on oil More sinister connotations In 1932 Hitler stated that ‘an economy without oil is inconceivable in a nation that wishes to remain independent’. His desire to control oil-rich Russian Caucasus ended with the catastrophe of Stalingrad Since that time oil appears to have played a key factor in where we decide to wage our wars ………………

Old road to Hardangerfjord The most scenic journey from Voss to Hardangerfjord takes in the old road, which begins approximately 22 km along the main road from Voss to Ulvik. Ulvik is a traditional Norwegian village set on the banks of the Hardangerfjord. This is a fruit-growing region and close by can be found the Ulvikpollen wetlands, which are home to over 80 species of bird including the Golden Plover. On the other side of the Hardangerfjord is the village of Eidfjord, which lies in close proximity to the Hardangervidda Nature Centre and the most famous waterfall in Norway, the Voringfossen.

‘Wars’ of the World Military intervention outside of the western world Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan and Libya All regions rich in fossil fuels

No military intervention Rwanda, Sudan, Burundi, Zimbabwe The Democratic Republic of Congo and other parts of central Africa Sri Lanka Palestine and Tibet Syria All regions relatively poor in fossil fuels

Oil wars Oil wars are happening right in front of our eyes, and have been doing so for many years – this is no conspiracy theory. The US is the largest oil consumer, making up 25% of the world’s demands and so it has the biggest stake in oil. It has a measure of control over or access to about 50 % of the world’s oil reserves.

However its own oil production has been in decline for 25 years and is in an irreversible terminal trend. According to the United States Energy Information Administration this situation is going to be made worse as a result of demand for oil - in 2001 the US imported an average of 9.1 million barrels per day, which is over 60 percent of its crude oil needs, in 2020 the country is projected to require almost 26 million barrels per day in imports.

It is clear that the US, like any country, can only be a major player in world politics if it can maintain its energy supply. The only current solution for the US is access to oil in the Middle East, which has 64% of the world’s known reserves and about half of the ‘yet-to-produce’. It was not a big surprise when Kuwait, with the sixth largest oil reserve in the world was invaded by Iraq – and just as when Germany invaded Poland at the start of the Second World War, international retaliation against the aggressors was justifiable. However since

that time the story goes down hill. We were led to believe that the war in Iraq was as a result of a nuclear threat, however, this was never the case - the international community never supported the invasion of Iraq. Yes, Saddam Hussain was an evil dictator but by the same token so is Robert Mugabe of Zimbabwe and those that caused the massacre in Rwanda. So, why is it we choose to fight in the Middle East and not Africa? Iraq just happens to possess the world’s second largest oil reserve with 112.5 billion barrels, about 11% of the total world reserve. In addition Iraq represented a threat to the other oil producing nations in the region. When you realise that the first US military objectives were to secure control of the oil fields, refineries and Oil Ministry, the main purpose of the invasion becomes clear.

So what about Afghanistan? Is the war in Afghanistan solely about Bin Laden and 9/11? After all most of the hijackers came from Saudi Arabia, Bin Laden himself was tracked down in Pakistan and those wishing to become terrorists don’t need to attend a training camp in Afghanistan – there are many other places to hide in the world. Surely one of the main risks of terrorist attacks against the West comes from our continued military presence in Central Asia as it services to radicalise young Muslims? It is fair to say that the reasons for war are complex, but once again fossil fuels are likely to be part of the equation, read on …..

The Caspian states of Central Asia hold at least 200 billion barrels of oil, which represent the biggest hitherto untapped reserves of oil in the world. In addition Central Asia has 6.6 trillion cubic meters of natural gas just begging to be exploited. A quick look at the map on the previous page tells all. All those countries that have a potential role in transporting energy to the West have already been subjected either to a direct interference or to all-out war: Chechnya, Georgia, Kurdistan, Yugoslavia and Macedonia. Russia and China cannot be

described as close allies to the US and so this leaves Afghanistan as a key part of the pipeline politics of Central Asia. Success in this region will enable western oil companies to get oil out to the Arabian Sea as well as providing energy to Pakistan and India – which is very profitable and affords a certain level of control.

Of course such proposed pipelines can only succeed if there is more political stability in the area, which could only occur with a single Afghan government and the removal of the Taliban – so after the Afghan invasion took place a new government was formed and headed by President Kazai, a former adviser to Unocal, a large oil company. In a further move to hold a bigger stake in the region the US reached a financial agreement with Kyrgyzstan to reverse their decision to close the US base at Manas, and more recently President Obama has agreed to increase aid to Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Oil and gas by themselves are not the US's ultimate aim, but rather control. If the US controls the sources of energy of its rivals — Europe, Japan, China, and other nations aspiring to be more independent — they win. The US has enormous military power but as Iraq, and now Afghanistan, makes clear, the old days of cornering a market by engineering a coup or sending in the Marines are fast receding. The old imperial nations are fading, and the up-and-comers are just as likely to be speaking Portuguese, Chinese, and Hindi as they are English. The trick over the next several decades will be how to keep the competition for energy from sparking off brush fire wars or a catastrophic clash of the great powers.

The cost of oil wars Support our troops but not our government policies that send them to fight for oil Costs to the U.S The cost of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan could reach as high as $6 trillion dollars – or $75,000 for every household in America The cost to the U.K. of the Afghan conflict - £37 billion

And for what?

The importance of removing dictators from power, such as Saddam Hussain cannot be underestimated. However it is estimated that there have been 1,000,000 violent deaths since the start of the Iraq war, most of these are civilian . The U.S. has lost over 5000 soldiers and over 100,000 have been injured. The U.K. has lost over 450 soldiers in Afghanistan alone. As for opium, cultivation has reached a record level, with more than 200,000 hectares planted with the poppy What could have been for all those that lost their lives?

What else could we have done with all that money Is the world really a safer place – probably not? It may even be less safe as the main terrorist threats comes from radicalising Muslims incensed by our so called war on terrorism

If you still don’t believe in the Oil wars then why have we kept out of Africa?

The Rwandan genocide and refugee crisis 1994-96 800,000 Rwandans murdered It took place under the eyes of 2,600 UN peacekeepers In a small country with an ill-equipped army, western military intervention could have stopped the slaughter within days or weeks Dafur, Sudan A civil war began in 1993 Tens of thousands have died as a result of conflict or starvation Zimbabwe The ruthless regime of Robert Mugabe has left countless dead In the 1980’s alone his crack troop the 5th brigade murdered an estimated 20,000 people in the Matabeleland and Midlands provinces Central Africa Ethnic massacres in the Democratic Republic of Congo Abduction and enslavement in northern Uganda and southern Sudan Widespread laying of landmines and denial of human rights in Angola and Congo-Brazzaville

But it’s not just the fault of the West - it is more the rich versus the poor Most would agree that the world is a better place without Osama Bin Laden and Saddam Hussein, but when we look deeper in to the West’s foreign policy in Central Asia is it really about democracy or is it the New Imperialism?

We used to go to war to protect our country but now we also go in search of fossil fuel, a fact that is no conspiracy theory. The only conspiracy theory was that Saddam Hussein had nuclear capability. Unfortunately history has shown us that aggression tends to be met with aggression and so as we continue to tread on other peoples soil we leave ourselves open to attack by people disillusioned with the ways of the West.

However the blame must not lay solely with the West as the Arab league does little to manage its own conflicts. The 2011 up-risings in Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Libya and Syria have also opened our eyes to the fact that across the world the so called riches of oil are not shared amongst the poor such that the rich are getting richer while the poor remain poor.

And what about the New Imperialism? This is much more subtle than in the past, but as the military withdraws from central Asia the platform has been made for the influx of multinational corporations dealing in fossil fuels, and who fly the flag of the West. The fact that China and Russia, the other super-powers in the region do not support the West speaks volumes, and let us not forget the United States boycott of the 1980 Summer Olympics to protest against the Russian war in Afghanistan.

If we really want a peaceful world we have to get better at sharing, and if a global society is to be built on basic human values, then these values have to take precedence over national sovereignty in all parts of the world, whether or not they are rich in natural resources.

Back in Norway - Lake Strynsvatn from Glomnus Travelling north from the Sognefjord brings you to the Jostedalsbreen National Park, which affords good hiking opportunities.

The main accommodation in this area are the towns of Skei and Stryn, but there are a large number of small villages offering much more scenic stays.

My own favourite is a tiny hamlet called Glomnus, a short but steep hike from which offers spectacular views of Lake Strynsvatn and the surrounding mountains.

On the other side of the lake is the Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre, which can be reached by a short drive, or far better a gentle row from one the boats that can be used if you stay in the holiday cottages in Glomnus.

What are the alternatives to oil?

Traditional fuels Coal, natural gas and nuclear

Renewable energy What about saving energy?

- The average food item in a supermarket travels 1500km - Energy efficient light bulbs use Âź less energy and last 12 times longer - One long-haul return flight can produce more CO2 per passenger than the average UK motorist does per year - If all UK households turned off their TVs at night instead of leaving them on standby we would avoid emitting an amount of CO2 that would fill the O2 arena 38 times each year - 4 by 4 cars not only guzzle petrol, but are more likely to harm to others in road accidents

Mist on Lake Strynsvatn Close to Lake Strynsvatn are a number of places well worth a visit. From the small town of Olden on Nordfjord, a scenic road takes you to the glacial tongues of Brenndalsbreen and Briksdalsbreen. An alternative way of reaching the glaciers is by pony carts, operated by local guesthouses. Not far from Olden lies the lovely glacial lake of Lovatnet, which can be accessed either by road or by boat from Sande. At the end of the lake it is possible to take an easy 2km walk to the glacier face.

Traditional fuels As with oil, other traditional fuel sources can’t simply be switched off as we are too reliant on them, but they have well documented problems Coal The burning of coal is highly polluting. New carbon-capture technology may improve matters but has potential pitfalls. The long-term environmental impacts are unknown. In the UK such a project is likely to cost £ 1-2 billion. Extra energy is needed to run carbon capture and storage plants, meaning that substantially more coal has to be mined and shipped - given that UK already imports 75% of its coal, this is a major concern. Current estimates suggest that 50% more energy would be consumed for the same electricity generation Natural gas Its reserves are predicted to last for 60 years Nuclear energy There remains no satisfactory solution to waste disposal Concerns exist around national security Low cost uranium reserves are predicted to run out in 50 years And when it does goes wrong: Chernobyl and Fukushima

Mountain Huts Driving away from the Jostebalsbreen area roads lead northeast to Geriangerfjord and Andalsnes, or northwest to the fine costal town of Alesund. En route can be found the Stryn Sommerskisenter, which provides Norway’s most extensive summer ski area. The best way of travelling around Norway is to bring your own car, fill it with food and stay in Norwegian cabins, known locally as ‘Hytte’. These cabins are inexpensive, of good quality, and more importantly enable you to eat in. Eating out in Norway is not recommended as food and wine is extortionate, and as a result eating out is not a favourite past time of many locals.

The Renewable front runners Wind power The rota blades of wind power stations are blown around to drive generators that produce electrical power. The earth has enough wind to produce over 40 times the world’s current electrical consumption. It is one of the fastest growing markets in Europe. Plants have good records of availability and reliability with a life span of 25 years Solar energy Huge amounts of sunlight fall on the Earth, its energy can be collected in 2 ways: - Concentrating solar panel (CSP) schemes use direct sunlight, employing reflectors that gather and focus light to produce heat. In large scale plants heat is used to drive turbines and generators - The Photo-voltaic (PV) scheme is the most prolific method. When exposed to light, electrons begin to move in a single direction, which is effectively an electrical current that can be used as a direct power source. The largest plant to date is to be built in Dubai And what about hydrogen?

Hydrogen is already in limited use being burnt as a vehicle fuel and as an energy source for fuel cells, which work by converting chemical energy into electrical energy like a battery.

Hydrogen is in abundant supply in the earths crust and also as water, however its longterm potential is unknown and major factors need to be addressed such how do we get to the hydrogen and safety issues?

Geriangerfjord and Cruise Ship Geriangerfjord is perhaps one of Norway’s most famous fjords. A boat rip along the 20km fjord boat trip enables close up views of its famous waterfalls such as ‘The Severn Sisters’, and abandoned cliff side farms.

There is some excellent hiking to be found around Geriangerfjord, route maps can be picked up from the tourist office at the town of Gerianger.

If time allows while in the region, a trip heading north along the Trollstigen towards Andalsnes is thoroughly recommended. The Trollstigen is an immense road with 11 hairpin bends that takes you underneath the dramatic Trollveggen summit and passed the thundering Stigfossen waterfall.

Other Renewables Hydroelectric power uses flowing water from rivers or dams to turn turbines, which generate electricity generators. It is cheap, robust and non-polluting but installation can have a huge impact on landscapes. Wave power can be acquired in several ways; one of the best known uses a partially submerged vertical hollow column. Wave motion forces water up the column, pushing air ahead of it, the air is used to drive a turbine, which in turn drives an electricity generator.

It is a reliable source of energy but construction is costly and environmental impacts have restricted the development of large barrage schemes. Geothermal uses natural heat from the earth’s crust. Naturally occurring heated water can be used for district heating, while water over temperatures over 150 degrees Celsius can be used for generation of electricity. Technologies are well proven with low environmental impact but its use depends on close proximity of energy users and its availability is limited. Biomass fuel is produced from crops having a high yield of dry material such as short-rotation crops, willow and poplar trees.

It is a by-product of forestry, timber and pulp production and is also available from agricultural sources such as straw, and as energy crops grown for the specific purpose. It is the largest single contribution to renewable energy use in Europe and can be grown in areas low in soil nutrition. Bio cars run on wood chip, wheat and sugar. Its big disadvantage though is that it is a combustible

fuel. Liquid bio fuels are well established for use in transport as bio diesel and bio ethanol, both fuels are processed from agricultural crops on an industrial scale. Most bio diesel is processed from oilseed rape and sunflower oil, while bio ethanol is processed from wheat, sugar beet and sweet sorghum. Again though it is a combustible fuel and its supply is limited by reluctance of farmers to grow non-food crops. Landfill gas energy in the way of methane is produced as organic waste disposed of in landfill sites decays. The methane gas can then be burnt to produce heat and electricity. While it is a ‘good’ use of waste the burning of methane produces CO2, and although this is less harmful than allowing methane to escape into the community legislation is increasingly limiting the use of landfill sites for waste disposal. As an alternative municipal solid waste can be burnt to produce electricity and plant technology is commercially established. Anaerobic digestion is an established method of sewage treatment, which uses bacteria to reduce organic waste in an oxygen-free environment. It produces a methane-rich biogas suitable for heat or power generation. The process also produces a liquid element that can be used as a fertiliser, and a solid element that can be used as a soil conditioner or processed into organic compost.

Blindheimssanden Vigra When in the fjords the coast is never too far away. One of the most pleasant costal towns is Alesund, much of which was rebuilt in ‘Art Nouveau’ style following a fire in the early twentieth century. A great view of the town can be gained from climbing the 418 steps up the Aksla hill to the Kniven overlook. Close to Alesund is the Atlanterhavsparken with its aquarium, coastal hikes and a good chance of seal spotting. There are a number of small islands in this area, which offer some fine beaches. My favourite is Blindheimssanden, which is situated on the northwest of Vigra.

The problems with the renewables Biofuels added to petrol and diesel can be detrimental as it is often produced from crops such as soy and palm oil grown on land that are felled areas of rainforest New technologies are not yet efficient and often lack infrastructure A study from California showed that wind power at one of its plants operated at only 23% of the realised average capacity compared with 75% for traditional fuels Supply and demand may not meet, this is particularly so for on-shore wind farms New technologies are not necessarily cost competitive and so customers may choose cheaper and more polluting traditional fuels Some people find large-scale wind and solar plants unsightly and are concerned about their potential impact on local wildlife

The Hurtigruten Coastal Steamer The Hurtigruten Coastal Steamer is one of the most famous cruises in the world and offers an alternative way of exploring the fjords. Every day of the year one ship sets seal north on an epic 11 day journey from Bergen to Kirkenes in the Arctic Circle. The trip takes in 33 stops including Gerianger and the Lofoten Islands. Of course you don’t have to travel the entire route and we sampled the steamer by putting our car on north of Alesund at Kristiansund and sailing south to Bergen.

Where do we go from here?

The future of our energy supplies is already a cause for concern, and this is with a population of under 7 billion people on our planet. Is our planet big enough for an estimated 9 billion people over the forth coming decades? Probably not, or at least not without increasing the number of people suffering drought and starvation, not to mention the catastrophic effects on the environment. As such, there is a serious need for governments to consider population control. Is quantity or quality of life more important?

As for the oil wars – have they arisen out of a fear that the developed world could not develop enough renewable energy before existing oil supplies started to run dry or was it down to the greed of the oil companies? Probably a combination of both but we may never know the truth. Regardless the vast sums of money spent at war would have been much better spent developing efficient renewable technology. Aside from the oil wars the UK spends 26 times more money on research and development of military weapons than on climate change.

Renewable energy sources are not nearly ready to replace traditional fuels but they are starting to gain momentum – in Germany the renewable energy sector is worth £20 billion and employs 250,000 people. In the long-term we have to make renewable energy work and it needs to become our primary energy source.

Renewable energy is beneficial for the environment. But one of the most understated reasons for moving away from oil is that we can all become less reliant on other nations for energy needs and this can only reduce the potential for human conflict.

In the future our world potentially has more to lose from oil than it has to gain.

As to the here and now, how far are we removed from the Mad Max scenario?

On the 4th September 2009, in Afghanistan, two oil tankers were ‘stolen’ by the Taliban. NATO planes attacked but as they destroyed the tankers, up to 90 people were killed as local villagers had approached the tankers with water buckets and pots to collect the oil for cooking.

CHAPTER V Planet Earth The Multi-National Corporation

Lake Jasna, Triglav National Park The Triglav National Park is named after Mt Triglav, the nation's highest mountain, and it is Slovenia’s only national park. The park reached its current size of 84,000 hectares in 1981 and includes nearly all of the Julian Alps that lie within Slovenia. Although the Triglav National Park is still relatively undiscovered tourism is increasing, and in order to try and preserve the parks outstanding natural beauty the locals are keen to promote eco-tourism. The two main bases from which to explore the park are Kranjska Gora and Bohinj.

Trade is the buying and selling of goods & services

Free trade is the system that controls most of our trade The current free trade system is flawed because it states -

“All economic growth is good’’ The wrong kind of growth can result in severe environmental damage such as over fishing, climate change and deforestation

‘’Trade barriers should be removed’’ Some so-called barriers include environmental laws such as logging. Removing these barriers is good for big multi-national corporations but not for the planet

‘’One system fits all’’ Rules don’t take in to account changing economic & environmental needs The world’ leading financial markets and banks reap the rewards of economic growth.

Unfortunately much of this growth is based around further depletion of the environment. Even when the greed of the bankers was exposed during the economic downturn, what do we do – bail them out. But their again how many of us bother to check whether or not the goods we purchase, or the banks that we invest in are ethical?

The Julian Alps, from the Vrsic Pass For the most part the Julian Alps are comprised of limestone and are very rugged. Glaciated valleys are deeply incised between steep slopes, whilst their broad floors are filled with moraine and other deposits from the Ice and post-glacial Ages. The Alps provide great hiking opportunities with some 52 mountain huts most of which open between June and September. Huts are never more than five hours apart and provide good accommodation with hearty food. There are twenty different ways to reach the top of Triglav, the more difficult approaches are from the north and the easier originate from Bohini. Some huts on Triglav can be unbearably crowded at weekends, especially in August and September. At such times do the trek mid-week and phone the hut ahead if it has a mobile telephone.

How does Free-Trade work?

More than half the world’s largest 100 economies are companies rather than countries 500 the number of companies that control 2/3 of the world’s trade The 5 largest multinational corporations achieve bigger annual sales than the combined economies of the world’s 46 poorest nations For many companies the bottom line is profit Setting up in the developing world means more profit as labour is cheaper and there is less regulation of workers rights and of the environment These companies have become so powerful that they can literally make or break economies of developing countries.

So when a company moves into a developing country, if the workers are poorly treated or the environment damaged the government in question is understandably reluctant to raise too many questions

Kranjska Gora Kranjska Gora is the most well known destination in the area, perhaps because in the winter it is the best ski resort in the country. It is a little more developed than some of its neighbours but still remains small enough for comfort. In the summer months it affords excellent hiking opportunities and lies closed to the beautiful lakes of Jasna and Zelenci. One thing not to miss while in Kranjska Gora is a journey over the Vrsic Pass to the Soca Valley. Accommodation is mainly in the forms of hotels although the ‘Spik’ campground lies 4km east of Kranjska Gora, and some farmhouses on the outskirts of Kranjska Gora offer affordable accommodation.

It has been said that Asia Pulp& Paper are decimating rain forests with 287,000 hectares lost in Indonesia in the past 10 years Barclays Bank as with some other high street banks have been responsible for providing the finance to Asia Pulp & Paper Due to pressure from environmental groups Barclays no longer support Asia Pulp & Paper …… but others still do Supermarkest Use their market power to achieve the lowest possible supply costs. Subsequently some farmers, both in the UK and in some of the world’s poorest countries are forced to sell their products at below the cost of production.

Western Governments support massive schemes in the developing countries to produce energy using fossil fuels The most influential company being Exxon (Esso) Exxon virtually dictates the US position on climate change The former head of the IPCC (International Panel on Climate Change) Dr Robert Watson stated that ‘human activity is responsible for climate change’ Not longer after this statement Exxon persuaded the USA government for Dr Watson to be displaced

Lake Zelenci Lake Zelenci can easily be reached from Kransjka Gora either by foot or bike. It is worth taking in the attractive villages of Podkoren and Ratece. If time allows it is well worth carrying on along a well- marked trail via Planica to Dom v Tamarju in the Tamar Valley. The Tamar hut has a restaurant and accommodation.

Slovenia still remains inexpensive and one of the other nice things about the region is that not many of the locals speak English, which gives it more of a wild feeling.

The main wildlife to look out for in the Triglav National Park are the Golden Eagle and the Chamois, which is a typical Alpine species. The Chamois can easily be identified by its large buttonhook horns. In summer Chamois remain above the tree line on the grassy slopes lying below the peaks of the highest summits.

The park is rich in flora including wildflowers such as the pink Triglav Rose and Julian Poppy.

The World Trade Organisation (WTO) The WTO is an international body, which negotiates and polices agreements between countries There are many problems with the WTO: Undemocratic The power and wealth of big countries means that the concerns of smaller countries are pushes aside Sets destructive agenda Other trade agreements often use WTO rules as a starting point Own judge and jury Disputes are judged by a closed internal ‘’court’’. The cost of raising complaints means that developing countries cannot defend themselves Half of the poorest countries in the WTO cannot afford a single negotiator to defend their interests The US has 250 negotiators

Lake Bohinj Bohinj is the largest permanent lake in Slovenia, and although less developed than Kransjka Kora the region has much to offer. The lake is suitable for swimming albeit a little cool, and kayaking. Bohinj has numerous possibilities for some spectacular mountain biking, some of the hotels rent bikes and provide guides. There are endless hiking opportunities that vary from a short walk to the spectacular Savica waterfall, a 12km circular route around the lake, and a climb to the 1000m summit of the Vogar Highlands, which affords a marvellous panorama of the lake and the entire upper valley. For those more adventurous it is possible to ascend the south side of Mount Triglav from Bohinj. The region offers some very pleasant accommodation and has two campgrounds.

Corporate Accountability There is currently no regulation as to how multi-national corporations conduct themselves Carbon credits

The carbon credit is a concept devised by the Kyoto protocol. Essentially if one company emits more CO2 into the atmosphere than is permitted it can buy credits from other companies that produce less pollution. The problem is that just as much pollution is created as companies that produce too much just buy what they need to offset their emissions. Offsetting also reduces the pressure on rich nations to develop sustainable technologies.

Essentially carbon credits are a ploy for politicians to avoid making difficult decisions There is a need to develop corporate accountability at an international level to ensure that: Multinational Corporations cannot ride rough shod over the environment and are financially liable for any damage Local communities are actively involved in any new development have a right to appeal receive a fair share of the profit

The Vrsic Pass The Vrsic Pass runs from Kransjka Gora to Bovec in the Soca Valley. It affords spectacular views of the Julian Alps and passes by Lake Jasna, the Russian Chapel and the botanical gardens ‘Alpinum Juliana’. The pass is open from May to October. For those without transport a bus service is available from June onwards. The Soca valley lies on the southern side of the Julian Alps and provides access to the park's most remote valleys, deepest canyons and wildest waters, which gradually slow to form the most colourful of all Alpine rivers – the blue-green Soca. Bovec is the recreational centre of the Upper Soca Valley with kayaking, mountain biking and white water rafting on offer.

Fairer trade Support local producers More of your money stays in the local economy Less climate changing fossil fuels are used in transportation Choose fair trade products Challenges the current system of ‘’free trade’’ Helps producers get a fair price Invest ethically Put pressure on companies that harm the environment or people Support progressive firms such as renewable energy suppliers The primary objective of multinational corporations is profit, which makes them vulnerable – their success depends on the consumers, so if we shop more ethically the most irresponsible companies loose out and will be forced to change their ways

CHAPTER VI A Climate of Injustice

Seefeld – Spires and Mountains in the Tyrol

Austria has to rank high as one of the most beautiful countries in Europe and the locals know how to look after it – Austria is impeccably lean and re-cycling is taken very seriously. The Tyrol arguably provides the most familiar images of Austria with jagged peaks, snow-capped mountains, green pastures and onion-domed churches. Although temperatures in the mountains are a little lower than in the valleys, May through September is respectably warm. Moving around Austria is easy as the roads are very good with autobahns that all have a single toll charge, and a train service that is very punctual service.

The gap between the developed and developing world is widening 54 nations are poorer now than in 1990 20 of these countries are in Sub- Saharan Africa

Half of humanity lives on less than ÂŁ1.50 a day

In the UK the average person spends ÂŁ300 at Christmas

Seefeld Seekirche

In the heart of the Austrian Tyrol the village of Seefeld occupies a high mountain plateau and offers unrivalled alpine vistas. With grassy pastures carpeted in wild flowers, forested slopes and rugged peaks it is hard to think of a more tranquil destination. Activities around Seefeld include lake swimming, mountain biking and paragliding. Hiking opportunities are endless and access into the mountains is made easy by way of the many cable cars and the funicular.

For those more adventurous the ‘Stubaier Hohenweg’ is of the finest multi-day tours of the Alps, and good white-water rafting can be organised from Imst in the Inn Valley.

Food consumption 790 million the number of people in the world malnourished 45 the percentage of the total meat and fish consumed in the world by the people of the wealthier nations, who account for only 20% of the world’s population 30 the percentage of people in the developed world who are obese, food consumption in the developed world continues to increase If all the hot dogs & hamburgers eaten in Disney World each year were lined up they would stretch from Orlando to Philadelphia 140,000 The number of gastric bypass operations performed by surgeons in US every year

Krimmler Falls Away from the Tyrol, central Austria has much to offer and the best base from which to explore this region is Zell am See. This charming resort has its own lake, which is suitable for swimming, and lift system for access in to the mountains.

Close by can be found one of Austria’s most popular tourist attractions, the Krimmler Falls. The best way to get to the falls from Zell am See is on one the six daily trains that run along the Pinzgaubahn

Waste The amount of waste produced in the developed world has tripled in the last 20 years 700K the amount of waste produced by an average US citizen per year Walt Disney World produces 70 tonnes of waste a day 99% of items purchased in the UK are disposed of within 6 months Retail Therapy a term used to describe a spending spree to makes us feel better - unfortunately, the more we spend the more of our world we destroy

Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse The Hohe Tauern National Park is in striking distance from Zell am See. The park was created in 1971 in order to protect some of Austria’s highest mountains from human encroachment.

Tourist offices in Zell am See and Heilingenblut offer good advice about hiking and other activities in the park.

The main wildlife to look out for is the Chamois and Marmot One trip that must not be missed is the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse.

This spectacular toll road is open from mid May to late October, and affords fabulous views of Austria’s highest peak, the Grossglockner. If you do not have your own transport a daily bus service runs from Zell am See.

Water Earth is the water planet It contains an almost unimaginable 1.4 billion cubic km However, 95% of it is seawater, which we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t drink Water consumption in the developed world: 680 litres a day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an average New Yorker 250 litres a day - an average French citizen, of which < 0.5% is for drinking 150 litres a day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an average English citizen Water consumption in the developing world 4 litres a day an average Kenyan The average person in the developing world uses the equivalent in a single toilet flush 40 % of the world has scarce water supply this figure is likely to increase to 65% by 2025

Heilenglenblut At the eastern end of the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse lies Heiligenblut, one of the most attractive in the Alps. The village is dominated by the impressive spire of the Pfarrkirche St Vinzenz, while in the background lies the 3798 metre snow-clad summit of the Grossglockner. resorts cable cars run from the village to provide good access to the mountains and alpine meadows.

Health and Education 1/5 of the world’s people have no modern healthcare system 11 million the number of children aged under 5 that die each year from treatable disease In 1854 John Snow removed the handle from the pump on London’s Broad Street, which resulted in the discovery of the mode of transmission of Cholera In 2014 over 2 million children will die from diarrhoeal disease such as Cholera – this need not be the case

Hallstatt

Although Austria is blessed with many beautiful lakes, the prime lake-land area is the Salzkammergut. The main lakes within this region are the Wolfganagsee, Traunsee, Mondsee and Hallstattersee. All of the lakes have their own attributes but without doubt the jewel in the rown is Hallstattersee. The lake is surrounded on all sounds by towering mountains, and even the village of Hallstatt lies directly under a cliff face. On the south side of the is the lake is the village of Obertraun from where a cable car provides public access to the very impressive Dachstein Caves. The same cable car system continues upwards to some stunning hiking areas. The Hallstattersee is also famed for its salt mines and is a good spot for a swim.

10% of the money spent on health research is spent on the health of 90% of the world’s people In order to improve our own healthcare the developed world is poaching doctors from abroad In Ghana there are 9 doctor’s to every 100,000 patients Mozambique has only 500 doctors for a population of 18 million To satisfy all the world’s sanitation and food requirements would cost only US $13 billion - roughly the same amount that the people of the US & European Union spend on perfume a year And what about education?

It would cost $6 billion a year, on top of what is already spent, to put every child in school, that is less than 1% of what the world spends on weapons each year

The Dachstein Range The Salzkammergut region can simply be enjoyed for its stunning scenery or you may wish to get into the mountains themselves.

Freytag & Berndt produce numerous walking maps. Hikes are marked on maps as blue if easy, red intermediate and black difficult.

In the northern part of the region the Wolfgangsee offers excellent opportunities for hiking and mountain biking.

The lakes also offer good opportunities for water sports in the way of sailing, wind surfing and in some areas water skiing.

Energy consumption The developed world is primarily responsible for climate change 60% of the world’s energy is used by the 20% of the world’s population that live in develop countries 40% of the world’s population has no electricity Yet it is the developing world that is most at risk Climate change could cut food production in developing counties by up to 25% in the next 50 years 98 % of deaths resulting from ‘natural disasters’ occur in developing countries The USA has 5% of the world’s population but produces 25% of world’s greenhouse gases A quote from President George W. Bush in March 2006 explaining why the US pulled out of the Koyoto agreement ‘It would gravely damage the US economy’ President Barrack Obama has pledged a new era of cooperation and progress in climate change from the US – much hangs on these words

Gosausee and the Dachstein Range

One of the less well-known lakes in the region is the Gosausee, which lies approximately 15km from Hallstatt. An easy walk around the lake affords spectacular views of the Dachstein range. Summer skiing is available on the Dachstein Glacier.

Ecological footprint ‘The ecological footprint’ of the US is double that of Europe and 7 times that of Asia or Africa An average person uses 2.28 hectares of land/year in terms of resources US - the figure is 9.7 UK – the figure is 5.35 Mozambique – the figure is 0.47 1/3 of the world’s biodiversity has been annihilated in the past 35 years We are consuming the Earth’s resources 30% faster than it can replenish them

CHAPTER VII THE FUTURE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; WHAT DOES IT HOLD?

For thousands of years the human race took from the earth what it needed, but at some point along our journey we started to take more, and since 1970 man has used up one third of the world’s natural resources. It is hard to know how we got here but sixty percent of the ecosystems essential to sustain life are already damaged and our world now stands on the brink of the sixth mass extinction, with up to one quarter of all mammals facing extinction over the next thirty years.

The quality of life for those living in the developed world has reached new heights of health care, home comforts and travel. However the only reason that we can maintain such a privileged lifestyle is by the continued exploitation of the developing world using ‘free trade’ to take more than our fair share of timber, minerals and food, while polluting beyond what our ecosystems can withstand.

Human values have become increasingly superficial and the way in which we perceive beauty perverse.

The developed world increasingly turn to plastic surgery to try and preserve youth, while many of the worlds people do not even have access to clean water. Our supermarkets reject apples that are not the right size or shape and instead prefer to purchase only ‘perfect’ apples that have been sprayed sixteen times by 36 different chemicals. Gardens have fences instead of hedges, short green grass and nonnative plants all of which is destroying our wildlife.

Of course there are those groups whose inherent interest is to protect our natural world and they have shown that success is possible. Brazil has 1.3 million hectares of certified forests and there are now over 74 million hectares of certified forests worldwide. There has been a forty percent increase in the Giant Panda population, the Black Rhino population is at its highest figure for a decade and Turkish bear dancing is no more.

The hard truth though is that such success continues to be over shadowed by greater loss, which in part results from governmental policies of the developed world, including those of my own government.

The UK plans to build new homes at a twenty three percent higher than average rate over the next fifteen years, which equates to an area the size of Hertfordshire. It continues to widen its roads enabling more people to live further from their work place and rely even less on public transport, and it remains

off target for its reduction in CO2 emissions, and when it comes to recycling why do we continue to pick up waste from peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorsteps who choose to recycle little?

Bluebells in my local woods

What about the US? I am aware that this book gives it a bad press, but the facts speak for themselves.

However my perception of the people of the US is that they are hard working, genuinely warm, and probably no more to blame than anyone else in the developed world - the problem is that the country is very insular and as such the behaviour of its people is strongly influenced by its governments selfish foreign policies that are principally concerned with protecting the nations own interests with little regard for elsewhere.

If we are serious about protecting the environment, on which our long-term well being depends, our economies must be based around sustainability, renewable energy must become a priority and we must support the developing world.

Our way of approaching the environment stems from a vision inherited during a time when the world’s resources seemed endless, which has long since passed. Our current life style is not sustainable, we are using up the world’s natural resources 30 percent faster then they can be replenished, and this is with a population of almost seven billion - our world is home to 1,000,000 more people every week and the population is expected to rise to nine billion by 2050.

Even those disinterested in the environment ought to take note. Our current wealth has not brought with it happiness, the youth of today have higher levels of anxiety, depression, crime and substance misuse. The adverse effects of climate change are likely to produce increased suffering and the continued deforestation will reduce our ability to discover new medicines. Falling stocks of fossil fuels, increasing frequency of human conflict and associated rises of fuel prices will eventually make travel less affordable.

A big step towards sustainability can only be achieved if we can focus both people’s minds and big industry on the environment. The term ‘out of mind out of sight’ is a very accurate way of describing our view of the natural world. In today’s world shopping is not about what we need but rather what we can have, and all the glossy marketing makes it easier for us to ignore the global destruction behind mass consumerism.

In the UK like many other countries we pay VAT (Value Added Tax) on luxury items, the logical step would be to replace this with an environmental tax. In this way those products most damaging to the environment such as non-FSC wood and fossil fuels would cost considerably more. This would not only enable consumers to be aware of the environmental effects of their purchase but it would also focus big industry to change their ways. Industry is based on profit and the only things that will force industry to change its ways are if its profits are less.

There is also a need to protect much of the remaining rainforests as well as increase the amount of national parks and wildlife corridors. Once we have done this then we can calculate what resources main and then plan human activity around this.

Fox at sunset

The further development of renewable energy remains a priority and some of the reasons for this are obvious such as a reduction in global warming and levels of pollution. But one of the main reasons is to reduce human conflict, and also the dependency of developing countries on the large multi-national corporations of the developed world.

There is a further reason to promote renewable energy and that is acceptability. I believe that people will never want to give up there car for public transport, or to stop flying. The provision of more green energy will allow such choice to continue.

The developed world has to be very mindful in the way it relates to the developing world. If our current era of consumerism is passed on to the developing world, which after all houses the vast majority of the world’s population, the consequences do not bear worth thinking about - China has already become the world’s second largest producer of carbon dioxide and is building five new power stations a week. On the other hand it would be rather hypocritical of us to be dam the economic progress of Brazil, which still has twenty two percent of its population living under the poverty line, or China, a country in which economic growth has brought 400 million people out of poverty in the last twenty-five years. There is no doubting however that China is not immune to the problems of global warming and indeed has much to lose with vast populations susceptible to the flooding that will be caused by rising sea levels.

The developed world needs to help the developing world create a sensible balance between economic growth and protection of the environment - it is after all in everyone’s interest to protect much of the world’s remaining rainforests, the Amazon, Congo and Borneo. We must also tackle our governments who are pre-occupied with short-term cycles of re-election, and who far too often sit in the pockets of multi-national corporations whose primary aims are profits.

However, it is up to all of us as individuals to change our own behaviour, for after all it is you and me who are most to blame. In the developed world we take far more than we need and support the most destructive multi-national corporations either by directly purchasing their products or indirectly by investing in the companies. For one, I have changed my lifestyle to support the environment. I still shop

but ethically, I re-cycle more and purchase renewable energy without paying more as I have now made my home more energy efficient. My garden still has a grassy area for my children to play in but the rest has been left to nature, which has rewarded me greatly by the amount of wildlife that lives there. I also give a small percentage of my income to those charities that help protect the most beautiful parts of our world and the wildlife within them. There is nothing special about me. The changes I have made to my life have not caused me any suffering or affected my quality of life in anyway, but what it has done is make my life a lot richer. I really am no different to you, so there is no reason why you cannot do the same. If we can all think about how we go about our daily life, take a little less and give a bit more back then there is hope for our one world, which is after all the only home we have.

Baby alligator

We stand on the brink of an environmental disaster that will affect us all, and from which there is no turning back. The problem has been caused by the unsustainable wants of the people in the developed world, fuelled largely by oil and driven by multi-national corporations. If we are serious about the problem in hand we need to consider population control, energy supply and the protection of the environment. Planet earth is struggling to cope with less than seven billion people and is simply not big enough to cope with the predicted nine billion people by 2050, or at least not without unimaginable amounts of suffering. The desire for oil has already led to wars with massive human tragedy and has divided the people of this earth. In order to reduce conflict the governments of the developed world need to be honest about their intentions in central Asia and negotiate rather than fight. Equally important is the need for all nations to become increasingly reliant on renewable energies. With regards to the environment man has already inflicted an ugly scar on its face and we can ill afford to cause more harm as after all our future depends on the wellbeing of these ecosystems. The fate of our world hangs by a thread, the time of the Industrial Revolution has passed, what we need now is the start of an Environmental Revolution. This is not going to be instigated by our governments who sit comfortably in the pockets of multi-national corporations, but instead by normal people like you and me.

Dr Tim Cunliffe 1st January 2014