Hypebeast Paper Levis Station to Station

THE LEVI’S®

SPECIAL EDITION

PA P E R Railside Conversations

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Bringing Past and Present Together with Maker’s Tools

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Denim Canvas Project

A TOUR OF THE MODERN FRONTIER: PRESENTED BY LEVI’S®

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CONTENTS 03

INTRODUCTION

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STATION RECAP

05 LEVI’S TAILOR SHOP ®

06 RAILSIDE CONVERSATIONS

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PEN & PAPER

10 MAKERS TOOLS

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SPACES

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LEVI’S® MAKERS

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DENIM CANVAS

19 STYLING SHOOT

MASTHEAD PUBLISHER Kevin Ma PRODUCER Eugene Kan Julia Bois Lindsay Sornberger EDITOR Alexander Lendrum DESIGN Tiffany Chan PHOTOGRAPHER Brandon Shigeta Marat Shaya

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INTRODUCTION

Levi’s® set off on one of its boldest efforts in support of an artist-driven project called Station to Station, a public art project made possible

by Levi’s®. The massive effort was spearheaded by artist Doug Aitken, and made its way across the United States, manifesting itself through physical form courtesy of a touring train. Much of the United States’ early foundation was built on migration and discovery, thanks in large part

to the railroads. However, a quick look around and it’s without a doubt that the modern day landscape for discovery is much different than what was experienced in formative years of the Western world. Levi’s® and Station to Station explored this ongoing theme and acted as a facilitator of new-age collaboration and the progression of creativity that spans a sphere without limits or boundaries. Station to Station

integrated several different creative pillars ranging from food and film to art and music, spanning the famous and the up-and-coming for a truly inspiring juxtaposition of creative identities. Some of the creatives involved with the project were Beck, the Savages, Raymond Pettibon, Twin Shadow and Ed Ruscha. The stops captured a creative collision of these elements and HYPEBEAST was present with

our own unique perspective on the story as we rode the train in its entirety, with the hopes of enticing readers to go out and #MakeOurMark for the future.

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STATION RECAP NEW YORK CITY

Falling under this season’s #MakeYourMark initiative, the launch of Levi’s® Station to Station event was held at Riverfront Studios, Brooklyn where invited guests from all over came to partake in a night of cultural intrigue ranging from music and performance art to installations and live artisanal work on display.

Some of the names in attendance included Suicide, Ariel Pink’s Haunted Graffiti, Jonah Bokaer & AIRLOCKS, and the Kansas City Marching Cobras on the musical end while creatives such as Kenneth Anger, Urs Fischer, Liz Glynn, Kathryn Andrews, Olaf Breuning and Thomas Demand all provided ample visual stimuli.

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PROCESS LEVI’S® TAILOR SHOP

Levi’s® has been in the business of making dependable and practical clothing for over 140 years. Many have viewed Levi’s® as a brand of function and practicality but beneath it all is a brand with a deeper creative agenda. The launch of their “Makers” program has set out to celebrate artisanal craft and domestic production, two elements of Levi’s® that the brand has held in high esteem. Levi’s® Makers program brings to the fore, glowing examples of the emerging craftsmen of all ages and disciplines, who have come to embrace the beauty of handmade goods.

Levi’s® Tailor Shop and Levi’s® Tailor Made Goods further support the brand’s affinity for craftsmanship and quality. With the likes of Jared and Laura of the Levi’s® Tailor Shop at the helm, the two utilize their own love of handcrafted things and high-quality construction as their mantra for repurposing and breathing new life into vintage Levi’s® apparel.

Over the course of September, Station to Station opened its doors to allow visitors to see the whole process unfold. For Levi’s® Tailor Goods the process often begins with Jared who heads up the design of each respective collection. The Trucker, which has proved to be one of Levi’s® most durable and rugged pieces, is used as the canvas for many of the Tailor Shop pieces. From there, Laura oversees the production aspect of each piece – be it a jacket, vest or bag – to ensure the new designs are cleanly executed. The Tailor Shop celebrates the innate element of imperfection that comes with handmade goods, as this imperfection lends itself to a quality that cannot be replicated or reproduced. These off-kilter items are often embellished with fabrics from Chimayo weavers or Japanese sakiori (vintage kimono materials that are shredded and rewoven), adding a yet another element of craftsmanship.

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RAILSIDE CONVERSATIONS

Eddie Huang and DJ SoSuperSam

Levi’s® and HYPEBEAST united two creatives of differing fields to talk about key themes such as identity, inspiration and creative process. In an animated back and forth conversation, they were able to discuss several key themes in their work and their creative process. Their discussion was captured while examining creativity as part of Station to Station. Four different pairings included chef and writer Eddie Huang with DJ and creative DJ SoSuperSam, Instagram-intensive photographers Sonya Yu and Kat Irlin, artist and Booooooom.com Editor-in-Chief Jeff Hamada and IMPOSSIBLE Project founder Florian ‘Doc’ Kaps and finally photographer William Yan and Levi’s® Global Creative Director Len Peltier.

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Kat Irlin and Sonya Yu

Jeff Hamada and Florian ‘Doc’ Kaps

William Yan and Len Peltier

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PEN & PAPER TAYLOR-RUTH OF HANGING ROCK COMICS

Ripe with creatives of all capacities, the Levi’s® Station to Staion project allowed us to showcase a special edition of HYPEBEAST’s regular Pen & Paper feature. We got a chance to meet with Taylor-Ruth, a talented youngster whose charismatic style is not only reflected in her illustrations, but also in her candid approach to her witty captions and storyboards. Hailing from Indiana, much of Taylor’s work can be found on her Tumblr Hanging Rock Comics - named after her first crush with Tavi Gevinson – which focuses heavily on her own interactions and ‘80s post-punk bands. In a departure from the standard Pen & Paper layout, we look at Taylor’s train cabin walls as canvas.

The artwork on display sees a mixture of old and new work narrating her own journey, from peculiar run-ins with the school shrink, to self-deprecating pieces based on her everyday encounters. TaylorRuth’s impromptu drawings do little to filter out her thoughts, instead presenting a collection that’s simultaneously dark and comical but undeniably honest. Taylor-Ruth is set to kick-start a tenure with Rookie Magazine, be sure to keep an eye out for her illustrations, and in the mean time head over to her Tumblr for more captivating doodles.

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THE MAKERS TOOLS REPURPOSES VINTAGE FOR NOW

The world we live in is undeniably technologically-driven. Our dependence on the digital world is often second nature as we effortlessly flick the screen of our touch-capable devices in the endless pursuit of knowledge, entertainment… or the highest score in Candy Crush. However, that’s not to say we’ve totally turned our backs on the analog world or the very real physical interaction that can only be provided in certain, yet increasingly rare, instances. Levi’s® is at a crossroads of tradition and modernity as we’ve been able to experience by closely partnering with them on the Station to Station campaign. On the one hand, you have a series of fashion icons that have stood the test of time for over a century, but furthermore the brand has set out to redefine what it means to go forth in pursuit of discovery.

As part of their fall campaign that centers heavily on the theme #MakeOurMark, Levi’s® took it upon themselves to really examine the relationship that exists between creativity and

discovery, under both modern and classical terms. The idea of bridging the old school with the new school resulted in something known as the Makers Tools – implements that would combine physical elements of the past with the fast-moving and social culture before us in the present.

Working with San Francisco’s AKQA and Creative Technologist Stephen Hadinger, this original concept envisioned by the agency was brought to fruition with the help from Fake Love of New York and Creative Technologists Matthew Epler and Mark Kleback.

Four different creative implements combined an increasingly rare glimpse of early 20th century design with a distinct technological twist. They included: 1939 Graflex Speed Graphic Camera linked to Instagram 1953 Gibson ES-125 Guitar linked to Soundcloud

1901 Underwood No. 5 Typewriter linked to Twitter 1953 Bolex B-8 Video Camera linked to Instagram Each piece of repurposed design was further linked with RFID-enabled leather bracelets, which upon activation allowed users to seamlessly login and share their creative output virtually instantaneously with their respective social media networks.

There’s something to be said for the undeniable physical connection that comes with creation. Unlike hitting the shutter button on your camera or typing away into your virtual keyboard, the underlying theme one experiences is consideration. You’re thinking just a bit longer before depressing the shutter of that 1939 Graflex Speed Graphic or typing to your followers on that 1901 Underwood No. 5 typewriter. It’s this considered experience – there’s no backspace on a typewriter that’s for sure – that changes how we

approach creating and sharing today. A lot of new and never-before-used technology went into developing these Makers Tools, but it achieves a happy medium of connectivity as well as tactile engagement.

But as an incoming generation knows little about the tools necessary for creativity of their elders, there becomes an interesting dialog regarding how this will change the way we approach art and creativity and whether the fundamentals will change. Every subsequent generation will come to develop their own approach to communication and creativity and ensuring a dynamic atmosphere that’s often indicative of the times. While the outcome of consumption and media will surely, the intersection of old and new is a perfect alignment of Levi’s® hopes to push forward, while honoring and never forgetting the past.

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SPACES A LOOK INSIDE THE LEVI’S® STATION TO SATION TRAIN

Over the course of September, we partnered with Levi’s® and embarked on the ten-stop Station to Station train as it made its way across the entire United States. The nomadic art experience conceptualized by Doug Aitken began in NYC and concluded in Oakland, California, a stone’s throw away from the iconic San Francisco brand’s headquarters.

The Levi’s® #MakeOurMark campaign, the digital arm of the Station to Station project, looked to inspire and activate participants around the world to engage in global collaboration to make a creative impact in the world around them. The Station to Station tour and train provided a comprehensive multi-media platform for creative figures of disciplines spanning art, music, food literature and film; who in turn were asked to participate in global cultural interventions and site-specific projects – providing a strong body of work to represent the overall initiative.

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JAY CARROLL OF THE LEVI’S® MAKERS PROJECT DISCUSSES THE IMPORTANCE OF ARTISANS

Levi’s® Station to Station has provided the opportunity for one of Levi’s® lesser known initiatives – the Makers Project – the chance to collaborate with some of America’s independent artisans. On display through an uncovered yurt (a traditional portable dwelling used by nomads), several different artisans have been traveling alongside the tour, each providing an intimate look into their efforts and craft. While this season’s slogan has been #MakeOurMark – the desire to influence the present and future through discovery and collaboration – the ongoing Makers Project has provided a direct manifestation of this theme. We were able to catch up with Levi’s® Makers Project lead Jay Carroll who provided some context to Levi’s® interest in helping out smaller and independent brands.

The Concept Can you introduce yourself and your role at Levi’s®?

Hi my name is Jay Carroll, I do brand concept and the Makers concept for Levi’s® out of San Francisco.

What was the catalyst for starting the Levi’s® Makers Project?

We’ve been doing Makers for two years and we wanted new conversations and stories to tell for our new smaller scale stores. So to differentiate our stores we started working with artisans we met with on our inspiration trips to create unique handcrafted and really beautiful product to sell in our stores.

How important is it for a huge brand like Levi’s® to help with smaller brands?

I think it’s one of the most interesting things about the program. To have a big iconic American brand work with the small unsung hero.

Why Artisans?

I think now the whole artisanal movement is really big, why do you think the landscape is relevant and appropriate now?

I think there are a couple things. People are getting back to living a simple life and valuing the handmade. Craft is a dying art form and this is the way that culture is going but we want to celebrate and inspire people.

Do you feel that for Levi’s®, there’s a level of

understanding from masses that is different than what the brand also wants to push? For example people who view Levi’s® as a rugged and durable pair of denim, nothing more, nothing less versus a brand that embraces heritage and culture.

The Makers Project does appeal to the customer who is interested in that very coveted and quality product. But there are also those who love the story and concept of say a quilt made from reclaimed materials and those who might love the aesthetic and story behind authentic Navajo fabric.

There’s been a lot of sensitivity around “Navajo” in fashion, how does Levi’s® approach this?

We work as directly as possible. For example the Chimayo fabric is made directly with somebody from the tribe. We’re looking to amplify their work and keep the authenticity. If you look at fashion and say Moroccan textiles, it’s close to home. Rather than taking it and putting it directly on, there needs to be a relevant story.

The Future Can the Makers Project extend beyond just fashion?

Yes for sure it’s in the essence of the brand.

If you look at Levi’s® whether it’s street style or the hippies in the ‘60s, you can always find a way to reappropriate it.

There’s been a lot of desire for Levi’s® to bring their product and manufacturing back to the United States, what are your thoughts on that?

Levi’s® recently moved a factory from Turkey to San Francisco where we can oversee our own washes and processes and it serves as our Innovation Center. It’s a slow process but a step in the right direction. The Innovation Center, like the Makers Project, has showed Levi’s® intentions of incorporating a greater domestic story into the mix.

What do you want to achieve with the Makers Project and what does the future hold?

What I’m excited about is developing Makers in other countries. We’ve done Japan for a year.

I try to find five artisans in Japan and I end up with forty, so it’s strong. I also want to develop it in France and England, and make it a global project with cross-country collaboration. As a brand, it’s been an interesting four years. This Innovation Center is one of the most exciting things and rather than travel to Turkey to develop I can do it down the street.

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DENIM CANVAS AARON DE LA CRUZ & FOLK FIBERS

For a large number of consumers, the idea of collaboration has been overused and recycled time and time again. But in our eyes, there still exist many exciting opportunities to collaborate and rethink how two parties should join forces.

In our Denim Canvas project with Levi’s®, we asked two partnering talents – largely unknown to one another and without prior relationships – to come up with reappropriations on some of Levi’s® most iconic pieces such as the Trucker Jacket, the 501 jean and the Western Shirt. Each pairing was given just one day without any prior meetings to put together a concept and apply it as such on a Levi’s® icon.

Our first pairing featured Bay Area artist Aaron De La Cruz, who has developed a cult following for his line-based work and was partnered with quilter Maura Ambrose of Folk Fibers. Aaron’s expertise resides primarily in the art world, so a collaboration with Maura Ambrose’s artisanal approach to quilting undoubtedly represented two highly contrasting creative backgrounds. Together they both worked diligently on a Western Shirt that served as the perfect canvas for some subtle Aaron De La Cruz sensibilities.

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DENIM CANVAS DSPTCH & FORESTBOUND

United by an interest in military-inspired design and product, Richard Liu of DSPTCH and Alice Saunders of Forestbound made for an interesting pairing. For Richard, his humble line that originally began with camera straps has grown significantly into a wide-range of accessories and bags. Utilizing various modern day milspec materials, his direction serves as a foil to the style of vintage-inspired Forestbound.

Alice of Forestbound’s initial interest in old military bags eventually grew into a brand, driven to provide a modern use for tested and true military relics. Together both Richard and Alice sought out to create a new and functional addition to the ever classic Trucker Jacket which included a zip-in liner and camo-hits on the collar. To cap it all off, a specially designed keychain and camera bag – strengths of both parties – was added to accompany the project and truly represent the idea of collaboration.

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DENIM CANVAS U.S. ALTERATION & TANGLEBLUE

U.S. Alteration founder Miggy found a keen interest in taking classic silhouettes and putting his own creative twist through the lens of a domestic production story. With a past involving the foundation of Los Angeles’ De La Barracuda, Miggy has been an integral part of the local fashion and cultural scene. U.S. Alteration’s pairing with Jay Palmer of Tangleblue brought together two visionaries setting out to provide a modern context to classic garb.

For San Francisco-based Tangleblue, they were a mainstay over the course of the month on the Levi’s® Station to Station tour and provided an intimate look into the art of reusing old scraps to create something imperfectly beautiful for the present day. Together Miggy and Jay took handwoven fabrics from Tangleblue and integrated them onto the ever-iconic 501, with a unique stylistic approach that has come to represent U.S. Alteration.

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ICONS: LEVI’S® 2013 FALL / WINTER “ACROSS FRONTIERS” Over the course of its existence, Levi’s® has been a cornerstone in progressive style and culture. Throughout time, several iconic pieces have emanated from the brand’s legendary range, many of which have earned an indisputably timeless status. The 501® jean, the Trucker Jacket and the Western Shirt have all transitioned with the times by giving the subsequent generations of these Icons a fresh creative stamp that remains true to the Levi’s® pioneering spirit.

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In general, the brand can be described by its notion of style that moves “Across Frontiers” and offers a versatile approach to fashion. We partnered with Levi’s® on their journey across the U.S. that can be seen as a metaphor for the brand’s enduring legacy, a legacy that largely began with the great western migration. True to the classical undertones of Levi’s® heritage and its indigo-driven iterations, we progress towards a more casual appropriation of the brand’s Icons thanks to new colors and derivatives of the 501® jean, the Trucker Jacket and the Western Shirt.

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The Trucker Jacket trades its signature dark denim for a creamy Taupe iteration while the Western Shirt adopts a bold plaid pattern. To finish off the series of looks, we enter the modern era where the fusion of technology, performance and classic-design is apparent in the brand’s balance of past and present. Several pieces of the Levis® Commuter™ line including the Commuter™ Parka and Commuter™ 511™ Slim Fit Trousers are a good indication of the brand’s understanding of classic sensibilities for modern day – all built on the legacies of the past.