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GOTTARDO BOULDER

A cura di: Claudio Cameroni Roberto Grizzi Renzo Lodi


Introduction. Over recent years The Gotthard Pass has gradually become a favoured rather than an optional summer bouldering area. Its location (boulders at 2000 meters above sea level) makes it particularly pleasant during the hot summer days. The presence of lichens (which never prejudges or disturbs the ascents) gives it the fascination of the more northern lands, completely different from the known areas in Ticino. Its beauty and the consistent number of problems makes it the third part of the triad of the Swiss Alps, together with Magic Wood and the Susten Pass. Lichens are a very special form of life, in that they consist in two different types of organisms closely tied together: a fungus and an alga living in symbiosis, each contributing of the survival of the other. Over 17000 species of lichens are known today. Lichens are very tough and long-living, colonizing extreme environments where no other plant could survive. This does not mean, however, that they are totally invulnerable; on the contrary, they are particularly sensitive to environmental changes and for this reason are disappearing in many parts of Europe. Atmospheric pollution is particularly damaging and they are now almost non-existent in cities. In places colonized by lichens, such as the Gotthard Pass, you can be assured that you are breathing clean air. This said, the area is mostly known not for its biological aspects but for its history which saw it as the protagonist of the engineering feats of the Walser (suspended bridges over the dangerous Schoellenen Gorge), of the passage from North to South towards Rome or the Holy Land and, in the XVIII century, of the place where the French fought against Suworow’s Russian soldiers. Because of this development we have now updated the Guide Book of this interesting and very special place for bouldering, and we hope that it will offer you enjoyable climbing days. Today there are 24 sectors and up to 800 problems!

Einleitung. In den letzten Jahren hat sich das Bouldergebiet Gotthard, das auf einer Höhe von 2000 Metern liegt, enorm entwickelt und ist ein Mittelpunkt/Kerngebiet für das Bouldern in Sommer geworden. Das Gebiet erinnert weniger an südliche als an nordische Gegebenheiten. Die Felsblöcke sind mit stark haftenden Flechten bedeckt, die durch ihre Farbenvielfalt bestechen. Obwohl Flechten nicht immer beliebt sind, sollte man bedenken, dass es sich um spezielle Lebensformen handelt, die äusserst resistent und langlebig sind. Sie überleben auch an Orten, an denen keine andere Pflanze überlebensfähig wäre. Aufgrund der immer stärkeren Umweltverschmutzung sind Flechten europaweit am Verschwinden. Dort wo sie sich, wie im Gotthardgebiet, zahlreich erhalten haben, deutet dies auf eine gute Luftqualität hin. Der Ort ist den meisten eher aus historischen Gründen bekannt, da er in der Vergangenheit eine wichtige Rolle in der Entwicklung der Nord-Süd-Verbindung darstellte. Die Bouldermöglichkeiten am San Gotthard wurden erst vor wenigen Jahren entdeckt. Hier liegt nun ein neu überarbeiteter Führer vor, von dem wir hoffen, dass er angenehme Klettertage bereiten wird. Heute zählt das Gebiet mehr als 800 Boulderprobleme und umfasst 24 verschiedene Sektoren.

4


Come arrivare: accessi. How to get here: access. Wie man ankommt: Zug채nge. D A

F I

22


A2 Zurigo Basilea

Süstenpass

Wassen

Göschenen Göscheneralp Shöllenen Andermatt

Oberalppass

Passo del Gottardo

Realp

2091 m

Furkapass

Uscita Airolo

Bedretto

Faido Lavorgo

Nufenenpass

Chironico Altirolo

Passo del Lucomagno

Giornico Biasca Passo del San Bernardino

Osogna

Cresciano Claro Roveredo

Locarno

Bellinzona

Domodossola Sempione

Verbania

La go

M

ag gi or e

Lugano Varese

Chiasso

Como A2 Milano

23


1.

Ospizio

Pag. 30

2.

Loch Ness

Pag. 32

3.

Conca

Pag. 40

4.

Il cecchino

Pag. 48

5.

Fass 90

Pag. 52

6.

Greta Garbo

Pag. 62

7.

Easy jet

Pag. 66

8.

Ecstasy

Pag. 68

9.

Scary Christmas

Pag. 76

10.

Dark side

Pag. 88

11.

Bunker

Pag. 94

12.

Parking

Pag. 96

13.

X-sector

Pag. 100

14.

Autogrill

Pag. 108

15.

Shark

Pag. 112

16.

Paguro

Pag. 118

17.

Suworow

Pag. 122

18.

Mushroom tunnel

Pag. 144

19.

Schöllenen

Pag. 152

20.

Göscheneralp

Pag. 156

21.

Wassen - Metzger

Pag. 166

22.

Wassen - Chaos

Pag. 172

23.

Wassen - Märlikante

Pag. 178

24.

Wassen - Sur le fil

Pag. 180


19 SchĂśllenen 10 km Andermatt

18

Mätteli

17 Canton Uri

16 15

CantonTicino

14 Tunnel del San Gottardo

13

Diga del Lucendro

12 11 3

10 9

8

2

4

5 1

6

Ospizio

7 Passo del Gottardo

Airolo 29


2Loch Ness. DIFFICOLTร€

PASSAGGI

3

>

5+

9

6a

>

6b

24

6b+

>

6c

11

6c+

>

7a

4

7a+

>

7b

-

7b+

>

7c

-

7c+

>

8a

-

8a+

>

...

-

10

6

8 7 c a

9 5 b

1รท10 min. GPS 686.380 157.202

2

b

4

a

3 1

32


Loch Ness 2 Blocco 1 1

Solenodonte di Cuba

5+/6a

2

Cenoleste colombiano

3

Beduro

5

6b+ Senza spigolo

4

Bemolle

6a Partenza come n. 3 Uscita a dx dello spigolo

5

La discarica dei 101

6c Difficile partenza poi placca

1

2

3 4

5

6

6

...

1

Chimera

2

...

6a+

Blocco 2 6b

6a+ Partenza da grosso appiglio Uscita su piatti

3

Memory steak

6b+ Uscita diritti

4

...

6b A sx uscita da n. 9

5

Santa Crux

6b+/6c Partenza come n. 4 poi diritti

1

2

3

45

Blocco 3 1

Cucchiaio d’argento

6b+ Uscita a sx

1A ...

6b Partenza come n. 1 poi dritti

A 2

Crème brûlée

6b Spigolo

1

2

3

3

...

6a

4

...

6b+/6c

4 33


Greta Garbo

Easy Jet Fass 90

46


Scary Christmas

Ecstasy

Il Cecchino

47


8Ecstasy. 10. Dark side

1 min.

11 a 7

8

b

6

5 GPS 685.470 157.098

10 9

5 min.

b 4 1

2

a 3

Dave Graham Trieste Gottardo 7c+

68


Ecstasy DIFFICOLTĂ€

8

PASSAGGI

3

>

5+

24

6a

>

6b

13

6b+

>

6c

6

6c+

>

7a

4

7a+

>

7b

4

7b+

>

7c

3

7c+

>

8a

1

8a+

>

...

1

Blocco 1 1

Sverginella

4 Discesa 1 m a sx del n. 3

2

Il pannellaro

6a+ Discesa 1 m a sx del n. 3

3

...

5+ Discesa 1 m a sx del n. 3

4

1

2

3 1

Blocco 2

Cainadòr

6b+ Salto bimano. Uscita a sx

2

Senza paura

6c 1/2 m a dx di n. 1 Uscita diritti

3

Hasch mich

7a Senza usare il sasso sottostante

3A La redoute

6b Uscita come n. 3

A 3B Lupisciu B

6a Partenza come n. 3 Poi fessura a dx

4

Atroce presentimento

7b+ Placca senza spigolo a dx

1 2

3

4

69


Ecstasy 8 Blocco 3a

1

Swiss corner

7b PS 7c

2

Snake

6a+ Fessurino

3

Nothing to loose

6c+ In piedi 4 (Via di discesa)

4

Teorema euclideo

6a Partenza da grosso appiglio Uscita a sx in placca

5

Pentagram

6a+ Partenza come n. 4 poi diritti

Giuliano Cameroni Swiss corner 7b

1 70

2

3

456


Ecstasy 8 Blocco 3b

6

Trieste-Gottardo

7c+ Magnifico. In piedi 7c 1a Simon Wandeler

7

Kingda Ka

8a+ 1a Giuliano Cameroni

8

Ecstasy

6c+ Bellissimo!

9

Cavallo a maniglie

6b

10 Thunder pants

7b Partenza da evidente presa rovescia

Gabriele Moroni Ecstasy 6c+

6

7

8

9

10

1 71


Ugo Martignoni Spongebob 7c+ Prisca Calzascia Herr Zimmerli 7c+

146


Giuliano Cameroni Pane e cioccolato 7b


Š I diritti di traduzione, di riproduzione e di adattamento, totale o parziale, con qualsiasi mezzo sono riservati per tutti i paesi.

A cura di Claudio Cameroni Roberto Grizzi Renzo Lodi Grafica Studiodigrafica Grizzi Avegno - Svizzera Stampa Salvioni Arti Grafiche Bellinzona - Svizzera 1a edizione - 2006 2a edizione aggiornata - maggio 2014

Foto di copertina Giuseppe Fedon Pane e cioccolato 7b (Foto: Francesco Pellanda)

Gottardo Boulder  

Over recent years The Gotthard Pass has gradually become a favoured rather than an optional summer bouldering area. Its location (boulders a...

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