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Thurso sits in the county of Caithness which, far from just being remote, or ‘far north’, has continuously been a nucleus of discovery in Scotland.
Neolithic cairns, Iron Age brochs, Pictish stones, Viking settlements and burial grounds, a globally significant stone industry, pioneering nuclear technology and world-famous meetings of intrepid coldwater surfers all suggest a place of unique energy and a place to gather, celebrate, live, work and visit.
Like generations before you, make Thurso your base to experience a region of astonishing historical and natural significance.
Discover warmth in Highland hospitality, fascinating human stories and architecture from times gone by; discover tranquility on wild coastlines, quiet unblemished beaches and under some of the UK’s darkest night sky; connect with truly ancient human history in Thurso and its incredible surroundings.
Like the wind up here, the pace to modern travel can be frantic and noisy – so Thurso’s tendency to only whisper its rich story has preserved it as a well-kept secret. From Thurso, find that elusive sense of exploring the unknown in a world that’s mostly discovered.
Welcome to Thurso! Within this pack you’ll find handy information that we hope will give a feel for our home while you’re here - have a fantastic stay!
1|Harold’sTower-A surreal morning walk to an 18th-century mausoleum built over the resting place of Earl Harold of Caithness&Orkney,aVikingwhowasslaininbattlein1196.
2|ThursoCastle&ThursoEast-Thurso Castle occupies the site that once housed the ancient Earls of Caithness, overlooking the finest right-hand reef-break surf in Scotland which,wepresume,iswhytheEarlssettledhere.
3| RiverThurso&RobertDick-PauseontheEllenBridge,take afewminutestosavourthesightsandsoundsofarivernamed after Viking God of Thunder, Thor. If you’re lucky, you can spot seals,otters,salmonandavarietyofbirds.
Explore the riverbanks south of the road bridge, where master botanist Robert Dick discovered Holy Grass– a plant previously not known to have grown in Britain. See his famous herbarium at the North Coast Visitor Centre, a plaque in his name at 8 Wilson Street, and a large memorial to the famous botanist at Thurso cemetery. You’ll also spot Holy Grass Vodka in almost every bar, restaurant and local shop! A tasty tipple from our neighbours, Dunnet Bay Distillers
4| NorthCoastVisitor Centre A spectacularVisitorAttraction tellingtheremarkableCaithnessstoryfromtheDevonianPeriod 400millionyearsagotothepresent.
5| OldStPeter’s Kirk- The ornate 800-year-old kirk is he foremost symbol of Thurso’s incredible history an absolute mustvisit!
7| Thurso Beach - Just that,a fine beach inwalking distance from town centre amenities. A blissful place to unwind with the family on acalm day and admire the endless grey skiesonastormy one. We’re firm believersthat the grey skies are more interestingthan theblueones!
8| Victoria Walk - A coastal pathway on the route between Thurso and Scrabster offering stunning views of Thurso Bay, HolbornHead,DunnetHeadandevenOrkneyonaclearday.
9|HolbornHead,Scrabster WalkthroughthebustlingScrabster Harbour to the Lighthouse, remark to your friends that you’d love to live there one day, then mindfully pass through the fields onto Holborn Head. Experience a stunning panoramic of the bay, but useextremecautionarounddangerouscliffedges.
10| Things Va - A mystical Iron Age Broch at a commanding vantage point atop Ravenshill later reused as a Viking Parliament! Visit www.thebrochproject.co.uk for a more detailed routetothisintriguingsite.
11| Wolfburn Distillery - Wander off the beaten malt whisky trail at Thurso’sown drop ofMalt Whisky heritage book a tourand enjoy a dram at one of the few remaining independently owned andhand-operatedmaltwhiskydistilleriesinScotland.
12|BirthplaceofWilliamAlexander Smith-SirWilliam Alexander Smith, founderofinternationalorganisationthe Boys’ Brigade was borninPennyland House,Thurso,Walk past amemorialplaque in hisnameonyourwaybackfromthedistillery.
Further north than Juneau, Alaska (58.3° N), and a weebitfurthersouththanStockholm,Sweden(59.3°N).Thelong,darkwinternights create magical opportunities to discover the night sky, while the barely perceptible window of daylight between the nights makes Caithness a playground for photographersseekingthatsweetfirstandlastlightoftheday.
In1791,asGovernoroftheNorthwestTerritoryinwhatisnowtheUnitedStates,Thurso-bornArthurStClair(sketched leftbylocalartistLindseyGallacher)leada1,500strongarmyintobattlewithNativeAmericans.Afterbeingsurrounded, St Clair’s beleaguered army broke free, but they’d incurredmajor losses.600 died in thebattle,and Thursonian St Clair wasdemandedtoresignfromhispostbyamanbythenameofGeorgeWashington.
MrStClairisoneofthemostnotableThursoniansor,aswe’vehistoricallybeencalledintheseparts bow-lees).Duringtimesofhistorichardship,Thursofolkwereallegedlyunableto affordteacups.So,ourthriftyspiritcametotheforeandwebeganusingoursoupbowlstoservetea! Despitethis,youwillbeservedteafromacupinThursocafestoday.
The largest bog in Europe, making it a natural and environmental treasure. It’s a short 40-minute train journey from Thurso into the heart of the Flow Country often referred to as the last true wilderness in Britain.ThepeatbogsofCaithness&Sutherlandstoreabout400milliontonnesofcarbon–more thantwiceasmuchasalltheforestsintheUKcombined.TheRSPBhaveabrilliantvisitorcentreat Forsinard in the heart of the Flow Country with a viewing platform overlooking the spectacular landscape. There is currently a bid in progress to make this incredible place a UNESCO World HeritageSite,we’llhearthe decisioninSummer2024!Visitwww.theflowcountry.org.uk.
Not interested in construction materials? Yesyou are- in 2012, two-dozen Caithness Flag slabs were removed from Edinburgh’s well-trodden streets because a hawk-eyed pedestrian noticed a fossil in one! Caithness shields beneath its boggy surface a layer of sandstone world-renowned for its prowess as a paving material. Caithness Flagstone was exported as far as Boston, Rio and Sydney in the local quarrying heyday – so next time someone tells you the streets of Boston were paved in gold,youcaninformthemthey’reactuallypavedinpricelessartefactsfromCaithness.Tolearnmore about the Flagstone Industry in Caithness, visit Castlehill Heritage Centre in Castletown, 7 miles East of Thurso www.castletownheritage.co.uk
You’re in prime stargazing and, when conditions are right aurora sighting territory. On foot, Thurso Harbour and Thurso East offer ample darkness and tranquility in which to stargaze – while Castlehill Heritage Centre, a designated Dark Sky Site less than 1km off the North Coast 500, is only a 10-minutedriveeastofThurso. (picturedright:AchavanichStones)
Visit www.spanglefish.com/CaithnessAstronomyGroup and click ‘Seeing the Northern Lights’for expert local tipson discovering a lifechanging experience in Thurso, as well as tips on how to photograph the skies. Various smartphone Apps are available to give aurora forecasts. Although we’ve named a few sites that are most accessible from Thurso, the truth is that the county of Caithness is strewn with fantastic locations to observe the night sky! Visit the local astronomy group’s website above and discover a wealth of stargazing opportunities.
The name Thurso is thought to be Old Norse for either ‘Bull’s River’ or ‘Thor’s River’ – that part is disputed but, like many Caithness place names, its heritage is very much Norse.
Thurso sits in the county of Caithness and, like many rural towns, it’s impossible to separate Thurso’s identity from that of its countryside. That identity burns strongly enough that Caithness became the first mainland Scotland county to adopt its own flag in 2016! Like the Northern Isles of Orkney & Shetland, we have a rich Norse heritage explaining the Nordic Cross presence on the flag: the black background represents Caithness Flagstone, the blue shows the importance of the sea to our identity, the yellow tells of our brilliant golden beaches, the galleon further signifies our strong maritime heritage, while a raven perches on the galleon as Vikings allegedly marched through Caithness carrying a Raven Banner. Though administratively part of the Scottish Highlands, Thurso folk are fiercely Caithnessian
Caithness is strewn with Brochs, massive Iron Age stone towers that lie in ruin around the county as quiet reminders of our extraordinary and untold history. They exist elsewhere in Scotlandbut,forsomereason,they’remostconcentratedhereinCaithness,andarchaeologists debate their exact purpose. Visit www.thebrochproject.co.uk for details on where to discover one near Thurso today, let your mind wander through time and decide for yourself why these structures came to dominate the Caithness landscape. Consider visiting other fascinating archaeologicalsitessuchas TheYarrowsTrailandCamsterCairns.
InmentioningRobertDick’s herbarium housedwithinthe North Coast VisitorCentre on page 3,wedroppedahintaboutCaithness’sstunningbiodiversity.InadditiontohisHolyGrassdiscovery,anothergem among local flora is the Scottish Primrose. Considered one of the most scarce and beautiful plants in the world, worldwideitgrowsonlyinOrkney,Sutherland,andCaithness!InSpring,walktoHolbornHead(page3),orfollow in Dick’s footsteps up the River Thurso from the Cemetery for a chance to spot this delicate delight. Visit www.caithnessbiodiversity.org.ukformoreinformation.
The Jellico express
Connected military personnel in the south of England to European Military Campaignsvia Thurso and the Naval Hubof Scapa Flow, Orkney, throughout WorldWars 1 and2. It traveledonthesametrainlineyoumighthavearrivedon,departingLondonEustonStationeverydayat6pm, arriving in Thurso Train Station the following day at 3.30pm (22.5 hours). The same journey now only takes 12.5hours rememberthesemenandwomanwhenyourThurso to Invernessjourneystartsto feellong!A commemorativeplaquecanbeviewedatThursoRailwayStation.
Dounreay
A nuclear power plant 10 miles west of Thurso, lead to a population rise in the townof3,203 to 8,037 between1951 and 1961,withover1,800 new houses being built to accommodate the new workforce. The incoming workers became knownasthe‘atomics’andthehousingdevelopmentsbuiltatthetimearestillreferredtoas such.Dounreayiscurrentlybeingdecommissioned,formoreinformationvisit government/organisations/nuclear-restoration
Inlessthana10-minutewalkwithinThursotowncentre,youcanbuythefabled scotch pie from three different producers – Bews Butchers, Johnston’s Bakery, and Jamieson’s Bakery. What’s more, buy goods from Reids of Caithness (Scottish Bakerof theYear2017!), Annie’s of Canisbay and McDonald’s ofWick in D.M. Frasers shop on Castlegreen Road, Thurso. Good luck finding such a cluster of independently owned bakeries anywhere else in Scotland! Local grocersJ.A.Mackay onTraillStreet andD.M.FrasersonCastlegreenRoadwork hardtostocktheverybestofCaithnessproduce.Manyofthedelightsonpages 12&13canbepickeduphere.
Old St Peter’s Kirk
Theplaqueoutside OldSt.Peter'sKirksuggestsitwasbuilt in1220meaningitcelebratedits800th birthdayin2020.However,investigationofthetower’sstoneworkindicatesadateofaround1150 –andarune inscribedNorse stone crossfoundburiednearthe Kirksuggeststhat theremay have beenasiteofspiritualsignificancemuchearlierthanthat!
OldSt.Peter's KirkservedThursomuchasachurchwouldserveitsparishanywhereinScotland.As wellasaplaceofworship,theKirkwasalsohometothecourthouseandprisonand,untilthemid1700s, it was the only public building in the town. Churches across Scotland featured various punishment devices. Old St. Peter's Kirk was fitted with "jougs" - iron collars that were fastened around the neck of the accused and chained to a wall, keeping the accused upright for hours or daysonend. ThekirkwasalsotheplaceoftrialfortheScrabsterWitchesintheearly1700s.
Old St. Peter's Kirk was extended in the early 1600s reaching the final form we see today. At this time Dornoch Cathedral was in ruins, so this might explain why Thurso's iconic ruin takes on an ornatecathedral-likeappearance.Thestunningsouthtracerywindowisallegedlycarvedfromone singlepieceofstone!
Old St. Peter's Kirk finally closed in December 1832 in January 1833 its replacement, St Peter's andSt.Andrew'sinthetownsquareopened.
The prominent old building is visible from many points along the waterfront in Thurso. It was built in 1660 by theEarlsofCaithnessandbecametheseatoftheSinclairsofUlbsterin1719.Itwasrebuilt and enlarged in 1872, but as the tower became unsafe most of the building had to be demolishedin1952.
The 1872 renditionwas designed to resemble a French Château, while it never saw signs of warfare or battle, it accommodated a few high-profile guests. King Edward VII and QueenAlexandriawereguestsin1876andtwoyearslater,PresidentUlyssesGrantofthe Untied States stayed in the castle for 6-or-so nights. Grant was the first President to visit Scotland–possiblythelasttovisitThurso?
Different theories attest to why the castle became unstable: one suggests that the foundations were ill-equipped for a castle of this stature from the off, while another tells thatthebuildingbecameunsafeafteranearbysea-mineexplosioninWorldWar2!
Salvation Army Cave - When the tide is retreating, you can find an interesting cave in the cliffside at the end of Thurso Beach. It’s known locally as the Salvation Army Cave because the names of locals from the late 1800’s and the Salvation Army crest were carved into the cave wall. The cave may also be haunted. Local folklore tells of a woman put to death in the cave after being accused of cursing a fishermanwhosebodywasfoundatitsentranceafterbeingblownoverboardatsea.
Old St Peter’s Kirk Hidden Find - Take a look around the back of Old St Peter’sKirk and inthe wall of thehouseopposite,you’llfindanintricatereplicaoftheKirkwindownestledintoametalcovering.It’s oneofourfavouritehiddenfinds!
Grid Pattern - The grid plan that organises many of the buildings comprising Thurso’s Town centre todaywaslaidoutin1790.SirJohnSinclairofUlbstercentredtheplanaroundEdinburgh’sNewTown whichwasdeveloped20yearspriorandisnowaUNESCOWorldHeritageSite.
We’ve tried to scratch the surface of Thurso and Caithness history– but the North CoastVisitor Centre deliverstheimmersiveandinteractivelearningexperiencetogiveyouarealfeelforthiscornerofScotland. We’ve touched upon the Neolithic, Iron Age, Pictish, Norse and Nuclear histories of Caithness, as well as the Thurso area’s rich biodiversity. Delve deeper into these fascinating stories at the North Coast Visitor Centre cast youreye over beautiful, thought provokingartefactssuchasthe Ulbster and Skinnet ClassII Pictish Stones, which date to around 800AD. The North Coast Visitor centre tells the Caithness story in a way that appeals to different interests and visitors of all ages. The visitor centre is situated in the town centre at the very endofthe pedestrianisedprecinct closest to the waterfront,- the front doorwill be on yourrighthandsidejustbeyondtheredphonebox!
Watch a sunrise or sunset
Wearlayers,findagoodvantagepoint,andletthefamousever-changing Caithnessskysendyouhomefeelingfulfilled.
Thurso East Great at any time abackgroundofseacliffsandpinksky, aforegroundofcalmingwavesorboomingsurf;appreciatethesightsand sounds of Thurso’s surf from a safe, dry distance. From the town centre: crosstheEllenBridge(footbridge closest totherivermouth)andturnleft on Sir Archibald Road, walking to the end of the road toward the castle beyond.
Holborn Head Great at sunrise–definitely don’t get caught on this potentially dangerous terrain after dark. A rewarding walk along a peninsulawhosepathwaysareguardedbyScrabsterLighthouse.Respect theScottishOutdoorAccessCodeasyounavigateprivatefarmland.Once beyond the lighthouse, you’re lost among rolling grasslands and mind-altering rock formations, before becoming completely surrounded bydramaticseascapeasyounearthetip.
Thurso Harbour Whereelse doesthe sunrise behindworldclasssurf,a herd of grey seals, a castle and an 18th century mausoleum, all in one picture? Sit on one of three Caithness stone benches built by volunteers, strategicallyplacedforyouto besoothedbythewaveslappingatThurso Beach and the Thurso Bay vista, or wowed by the Thurso East surf and castleviews.
Venture North, the tourism organisation for Caithness and Sutherland,designedanappthatgetsyouwhereyoumostwant to be. You choose what you want to see, and how far you’re willingtotravelforit,andVentureNorthwilldotherest.
Download‘VentureNorthHeritageApp’
I love nothing more than being cosy indoors when it’s blowing a hoolie (very windy) outside. But once the kids have had too much screen time and cabin fever sets in, I've found that Caithness is jam packed with opportunities for outdoor adventure - whatever the weather. Here's a list of family friendly adventures merely scratching the surface of what Caithness has to offer. Most adventures listed require little or no money, some grit,imagination,andcanbereachedbycarorpublictransport.
Caithnessishometotheruinsofover180stonetowersbuiltsome 2,000 years ago. The remains of many brochs can still be seen today. Visiting a broch and admiring the same views as the Picts once did never fails to give goose bumps. Alongside many other projectsandevents,CaithnessBrochProjecthavecreatedahandy Broch Trail leaflet focusing on three cracking sites waiting to be discovered. Check out www.inspiredbycaithness.com/blog or www.thebrochproject.co.ukforusefulbrochhuntingresources.
Old St. Peter's Kirk in Thurso is one of the oldest remaining churches in the county. Explore its grounds looking for the followingitemsasyougo: Asmoothrock,3x IronGates,adry leaf, a farmer’s grave, a rough rock, a skull & crossbones, a weed, ivy leaves,acrawlinginsect,treebark,ashoemaker’sgraveandabird. GetafunPDFguideatwww.InspiredbyCaithness.com/Blog
Geise Farm Walk has a beautifully constructed path that winds its way past a big burn, a waterfall, a distillery ruin, a wishing well, a pond and a railway bridge not to mention a huge selection of animals! It’s located 3 miles from Thurso on the B874 road to HalkirkjustbeyondGlengolly.Readmore: www.geisefarm.co.uk
Top tip! Check Thurso's train arrival/departure times on Scotrail's website before going to Geise Walk for a chance to wave at the driver and passengers crossing the bridge overhead!
St John's Pool is a private bird reserve, mostly supported through private fundingby JulianandRosemary Smith.Duringpeakseason (Spring to Summer), the pool is brimming with nesting and migrating birds. St John's Pool has a large public bird hide from where you can watch the drama between birds unfold through a pair of binoculars and be protected from the elements. Public hides are open year-round except for off-peak breeding season whentheyopenfrom10am-6pmonly.
StagecoachBusNumbers80willtakeyouclose toStJohn’sPoolfromThurso.
DespiteagenerallackoftreesinCaithness,thereareseveralforest walkswaitingtobediscovered.DunnetForestisacommunityrun forestbyDunnetForestryTrustwhosehardworkhaspusheditto theverytopofourforestadventurelist.You'llfindponds,alog cabin,picnictables,ahiddenplayground,sculptures,densanda woodenxylophone!Moredetailshere: www.dunnetcommunityforest.org
We visit this harbour for two reasons: the resident seals and Groatie Buckies- porcelain-like shells with a narrow opening along one side and delicate ridges along the back, which are considered inCaithnessto bringgoodluckto those who findthem.Ifthe seals are hiding,there'susually aGroatie Buckieortwo to be found,and theytendtobeonthebiggersideheretoo.BehindHamHarbouris a beautiful loch with swans and the old Ham Mill. Your senses come in to play. Hearing the rhythmic waves crashing, the distant melodic birdsong and the tinkling of sifting shells as they softly tingle thepalmofyourhands.Beforeyouknow it,you'renowhere else but in that very moment, no niggling thoughts or worries, just you, your surroundings and your wee treasures that may or may notwanttobefound.
This enchanting harbour and burn walk will leave the kids in awe. Park at Latheronwheel Harbour and enjoy the stunning surroundings as you walk up the river to visit an enchanting Fairy Glen amongstthetrees.
Top tip: There are picnic tables and a built-in BBQ down by the harbor, so if you're visiting in Summer make sure to bringsausagesandswimminggear!
Scotrail's train service from Wick to Thurso is25 minutesand gives instant adventure impact.There are great play parksbyWickRiver and Thurso River both 10 minutes’ walk from the train stations,so if you're lucky with the weather, bring a picnic along too. If the weather isn't great, grab a bus or taxi to The Pulteney Centre in Wickformorechildfriendlyfunandayummylunch.
A visit to the animals at the UK's most northerly petting farm always leaves you feeling all warm and fuzzy inside. Puffin Croft's honestyshopispackedwithhomemadegoodies,homegrownveg and bagged carrot chunks to feed the farm's donkeys, goats, pigs andrabbits.Details:www.puffincroft.com
Top Tip: If you've got time, squeeze a trip to the scrumptious Flavours ice cream shop nearby in John O'Groats,youwon'tregretit!
10. crawl inside the grey cairns of camster
Crawl through complete darkness into 5,000-year-old stone built Neolithic tombs. With its beautiful surroundings and hands on history,thissiteissuretoblowyourmind.
When the day inevitably comes when all you want is somewhere warm and dry to sit indoor with a coffee without having to worry aboutyourkidsbeingbored,youneedtheMessyNessyPlaycentre, Rotterdam Street, Thurso a place for kids of allages and abilities toplay,completewithaweecafé.
There remains a vibrant core of small businesses in the Thurso Town Centre, most of which are independentlyowned.Caithnessianculture,thelandscape,andthestorybookofhistorywrittenacrossit, inspirecreativeandentrepreneurialmindstocreate foryouaselectionofquality,uniquecrafts.
Discover unique treasures undiscoverable anywhere else on the NC500,inScotland,orintheworld.
Jewellery, paintings, knitwear, ceramics, tartan products, postcards, shortbread,pastries,beers,ginsandwhiskiesbearingthequietspirit ofCaithnessarepepperedthroughouttowncentreshops.
Jewellery and artwork rendered from famous Caithness Stone, shortbread made with gin, gin infused with a traditional sweet dumpling–thriftyandcreative.
Thurso caters for those among us pining for a bygone,gentlerpace of life. Book a session at Lindsey Gallacher Studio & Workshop, where she’ll walk you through the art of jewellery making – spend
This is not Glasgow…you’ll have energy left after shopping to discoverthetown’sstunningbuiltheritage.
The ‘Fisherbiggins’ of Thurso’s Old Town is a handy and historical startingpoint;houseshuddledtogetherinrowsfollowingthelieof thelandawayfromtheHarbourthatfedthetowninitsearlydays. Look for ‘The Turnpike’, a turret-like structure jutting out from an OldTownhouse.
Follow the higgledy-piggledy streets of the Old Town through the town centre towards the new. Enjoy Traill Street, stopping of at Meadow Well on the corner of Manson’s Lane before moving along Sinclair Street to the impressive Thurso Library building. Go upthehillfromheretoreachtheNewTown.
Though revolutionary in design by early 19th century standards, Thurso’s New Town is still the idyllic Scottish townscape your Instagram account craves.Grandoldresidenceslinkedtogetherin agridlayoutbyrowsuponrowsofquaintandcosylookinghomes, with a few old church and school buildings dotted around throughout. Go to the top of the hill and zig-zag your way back towards the Town Centre, crafting a new Instagram Story Highlightalongtheway.
Top Tip!
Always look up (except when crossing the road). Satisfying symmetrical architecture, interesting looking rooftops, and array ofquirkychimneyformationsarelookingdownonyou.
If the shopping didn’t tire you out, the walk will have. Give your feet a rest and let some of Thurso’sfriendliestserveyoufoodandbeveragesataTownCentrebarorrestaurant.
Ifthere’ssummerweathertobeseized,raidthoselittlebakerieswespokeaboutbefore.Takea fewtreatstoThursoRiversideortheBeachforawatersidepicnic.
Complete with a gym, sauna and a steam room, Thurso Swimming Pool is the obvious, warm choice for a swim but there’s also great outdoorswimmingtobeenjoyedaroundThurso.
The tranquillity and cool temperatures involved in wild swimming are known to be good for the soul. The following spots are frequented by swimmers, but always makeyourownjudgementsaroundsafetybeforewildswimming.
The Rockwell AttheendofThursoBeachfurthestfromtheriver,astaircasetakes you from Victoria Walk to a rocky shelf where there was once a diving board to facilitatearefreshingsummerdip.
Scrabster Beach Sandy, blue and offers slightly more shelter than Thurso Beach. Greatforarelaxingsplash.
SURF! Sandy,beginner-friendlybeachesareabundantintheFar NorthofScotland(they’reoneofourbestkeptsecrets!) Check out www.northcoastwatersports.com for a unique north coast experience.
After dark, take a short walk to Thurso Harbour (bring a phone or torch!),findyourself ashelteredspot away from light pollution,and justlookup.Evenonaseeminglyovercastday,thepersistentNorth Coastbreezecanbringyouanastonishingstargazingopportunity.
With freshly kindled senses, make another visit past Old St Peter’s Kirk, walking from the harbour in the footsteps of that Norseman whocarvedhisthoughtsintostonehundredsofyearsago.
Wrapupthe night intrue Scottishstyle–ahalfandhalf(halfpint of beerwithanipofwhisky!)inoneofourcosypubsalongsideawarm gatheringofCaithnessians.
If the pub or outdoors aren’t your scene, catch a movie at Merlin Cinemas on Ormlie Road. For details of film listings see www.merlincinemas.co.uk
We could fill another booklet with tales of local folklore and myths of Thurso’s more unsavoury past, maybe one day we will! In the meantime,averyshortversiontokeepyouoccupiedparticularlyifyoustrayintothegroundsofOldStPeter’sKirkinthedarkerhoursof the day as we tell the story of 3 witches who were imprisoned there. A man who lived in Shore Street and was brewing his own beer foundthatacatwasfrequentlycomingaroundthebarrelanddippinginitsfoot.Tochasethecataway,hethuddedonitsleg,breakingit. Around the same time, a woman who lived in Burnside on the outskirts of Thurso found her leg had mysteriously dropped off. The people of the town assumed that this could be no co-incidence so took the woman and her two daughters to be witches who were transforming themselves into animals to do some thievery in old Thurso. They were imprisoned for a hefty time in Old St Peter’s Kirk, rightinthetowerthatyoucanstillseestandingtoday.
While you’re here, try counting steps instead of calories. Because when you see that whopping number of steps you walked
Thurso is Scotland’s self-proclaimed unofficial bakery capital. Scotch Pies, SteakPies,Bridies(likeHeidiwithaB)andSausageRollsaretownstaples.
ThursoexpatshavebeenknowntotryandshipscotchpiesfromJohnston’s ofThursoallovertheworld;Reid’sBakeryisoneofthecountry’sfinest,and plentyoflocalswouldarguethatJamieson’sBakeryisthepickofthebunch.
There’s also an ongoing national debate as to who makes a better pie: bakers,orbutchers.We’dlovetohearyourthoughts!
Cullen Skink (Scotland’s rich take on seafood chowder), to Scottish Salmon, scallops,musselsandhake–Caithnessistheseafoodloversplayground.
The Captain’s Galley at Scrabster is a literal stones throw from the water meaningyourmealcouldtraveljust afewmetersfrom boat toplate.Treat yourselftoexperientialNorthCoastseafooddininghere.The Red Pepper is also known locally for dreamy seafood specials of the highest quality and freshness and, for something very much untraditional, enjoy Spanish tapas made from fresh Scottish ingredients in an old stone chapel at Capilla in Scrabster.
Want to know just how fresh the seafood is in Thurso?
Head to Scrabster Harbour just 2-miles away and literally watch fisherman bring ashore the goods that adorn local restaurantandchipshopmenus!
If you’re staying in a self-catering residence, get the North Sea’s finest ingredients from the Fish Monger at the Harbour, ask friendly staff how to prepareatraditionalmealyourself!
Yes, Fish & Chips is seafood, and we make no apologies for giving these delights their own heading. Robin’s Chip Shop and Big Fish Little Fish in a Carboard Box are stalwarts of the Thurso food scene and there’s only one wayforyoutodiscoverwhomakesthebestfishsupper.
ScotchBeef? Check.Lamb? Check.ScotchEggs? Yes.You’llknowaboutthe reputation of Scottish meat, so we’ll keep this simple: Bews Butchers and North Coast Butchers inthe towncentre bothhave everythingyou’dneed to prepare a traditional Scottish meal. You can often grab some on the go treatstooifyou’drathercontinueexploringthancook!
Thurso restaurants often work with high-quality, luxury Scottish meat sold under the Mey Selections brand, which promises to promote the unique standardoffood&drinkinthiscornerofScotland,aswellasthepeopleand placesthatstrivetosustain it.
In and around Thurso, you’ll find mobile food providers a plenty. These food trucks often offer locally sourced and delicious goodies from delicious Tacos to snacks and sweet treats. Check out Taco East, Highland Haddy and The Griddle
Haggisisbeautiful–itlooksbeautifulonawellcomposedplatewithneeps&tatties (swede & potatoes), it tastes beautiful with its strong white pepper backbone and, with the current impetus to be more sustainable,dishes like Haggis that respect old waysofmaximisingouruseoftheanimalsweraisearebeautifulintheirconcept. Almost every restaurant in the area will offer at least a small haggis appetiser, if not the full traditional trio of Haggis, Neeps and Tatties, and you can enjoy battered Haggisfromthe Fish&Chipestablishmentsmentionedonthepreviouspage.
While the famous Old Pulteney Distillery needs no introduction, Wolfburn and 8 Doors Distilleries are part of a new chapter in Scotland’s malt whisky heritage already,theirwhisky hascommandedastrongreputation,andwhenthey release a 10or12-yearmaltinafewyears’time,you’llkickyourselfifyoudidn’tvisitwhileyou werehere.
Stray off the malt whisky trail and get to know Scottish Gin! In a classy nod to their Caithnessheritage,Dunnet Bay Distillery’s RockRose Ginbringsaunique flavourto the world of craft gin their 5-star distillery at Dunnet is an absolutely vital stop-off. Ice & Fire Distillery joined the gin world in 2018, and more recently they created a buzzbyreleasingCaithnessRaidersRum!While2020saw theworlddrawtoahault, North Point Distillery was born and are now a household name for many gin and rumdrinkers. WatchthisspaceforDalclagiewhiskyfromNorthPointDistillery.
J.A. Mackay and Bin Ends are two town centre bottle merchants specialising in these Scottish specialties, and both stock beer from John O’Groats Brewery, the onlybreweryinCaithness–goldminesforgiftshopping!
Thurso is spoiled for choice – Shelina Spice (takeaway only), Spice Tandoori and Pride of Bengal provide the town with zest and spice. There are also three Chinese takeawaysandaTurkishKebabHouseintheTownCentre.
ForVegetarians
Mostlocalrestaurantswillgooutoftheirwaytoaccommodateyourdietaryneeds. Withsustainabilitycomeschoiceandmanyofoureaterieshavetheflexibilityandskill tochangetheirmenudependingonseasonalofferingsandcustomerdemand. Bydand &Olivearenoteworthyfortheireffortstoaccommodate requirements.
Vegetarianhaggisisavailableatmostsupermarketsandevensmallergrocers,soyou don’thavetomissoutonthatScottishculinaryexperience!
Shortbread
Shortbreadistherealdeal–asin,it’sdeliciousandScottishpeoplereallyeatit.Reid’s of Caithness have a global reputation for their amazing tins of shortbread. You’ll need one to eat in your room, a second to eat on the road, and a third to give to a friend! Town centre grocer J.A. Mackay also has a strong selection of tasty Scottish treats.
TOP TIP!
Gin & Tonic with curry is the ultimate in fusion dining.GrababottleofCaithness-madeginbefore you visit one of Thurso’s Indian takeaways and enjoy!
Did you know someone flew over from Japan especiallytobuyoneofWolfburn’sfirstbottlings?! Despite being a relative newcomer to the Malt Whisky world, they’ve gained a bit of an internationalreputation.
Top Tip!
You can buy an array of locally produced food & drinks around Thurso we mentioned the bottle shops, but J.A Mackay do so much more than whisky and gin. Between them, and D.M. Frasers, you’ll be delighted by Caithness Chocolate, Caithness Biscuits, smoked Caithness meats, cheeses, shellfish, and salmon, and anything excitingandnewthatarrivesonthelocalscene!
It’snotanaccidentthatThursoissituatedinstrikingdistanceof interestingplacesinalldirections.Here’ssomehelpreaching remarkablefarnorthlocationsformyourThursobase.Various transportcompaniesoperateintheseparts,checktheir websitesforup-to-datetimetables.
Thurso »»
Thurso »»
Dunbeath & East Sutherland
By train - reach numerous East Sutherland destinations includingHelmsdale,Brora,Golspie,LairgandDornochamong others–uptodatescheduleson www.scotrail.co.uk
By bus - destinations including Dunbeath, Helmsdale, Brora, Golspie and Dornoch – up to date schedules on www.stagecoachbus.com or www.traveline.info
Durness & Northwest Sutherland
On select days, catch the Durness Bus from Thurso to Durness –check www.thedurnessbus.com for current scheduling!
Or…
By train- take the scenic FarNorth Line southfrom Thurso to Lairg from where you catch a bus to Durness. Again, double check departure times on www.thedurnessbus.com and www.scotrail.co.uk
Thurso »»
From Thurso, the UK’s last true wilderness is only 40-minutes by train. The Flow Country is a natural treasure – it’s a must visit for bird watchers and those looking to mindfully experience the far northofScotland.FrequenttrainstoForsinardatScotrail.co.uk
Top Tip!Ifyou are planning frequent bus travel speakto the bus driver or purchase a Caithness MegaRider Ticket online. They offer various bus passes and all work out morecostefficientthansinglejourneytickets.
Thurso »» Wick via Halkirk and bower
Buses run all day between Thurso and Wick along two different routes (service 82 via Halkirk and service 80 via Bower). Find seasonally up-to-date departure times via Stagecoach or Traveline foramemorablevisittoCaithness’shistoriceastcoast.
Thurso »»
BusesrunalongthecoastalroutetowardsDunnet,CastleofMey andJohnO’Groats.PleasenotethereiscurrentlynoSundayService inthisdirectionsoplanyourdaystoaccountforthis.
TopTip!
Tickthat‘TrainRidethroughtheScottishHighlands’boxoff your bucketlist.Takeaday-tripontheFar NorthLinefrom Thurso to either the Flow Country or DunrobinCastle near Golspie; not only are the castle and its gardens something from afairy-tale, thetrainpasses through another worldly landscapetogetthere.
Certain Caithness beauty spots are very much tucked away off the beaten path. You won’t see them from the roadside, and, in fact, they can be easy to miss even if you know where they are! To make sure you really get to the nitty gritty of Caithness an expert tour guide might be just what you need!
Top Tip—if calling from out with the UK, use the code +44
Choosefromavarietyoffantasticpredesignedroutesorcreatea bespoketoursuitedtoyourtastesanddesiredpace.
Phone:07810285848
Email:info@aboveandbeyondtours.co.uk
BespokeSummertimeheritagetoursexploringCaithnesspastand present.
Phone: 01847893434Website:www.ormlietaxis.com
Haveanexpert inThurso’sfascinatinglabyrinthofhistoryguide youonawalkthroughthetownsoldstreets.TheHeritageSociety aretrueThursoexpertsandtheirstoriesshowadifferentsideto thetown.
Email:thursoheritage1@gmail.com
Guided walks to observe birds, plants, butterflies in splendid locations.
Phone: 07864322776
Email: geai@btinternet.com
FriendlyservicewithRashid dropintotheirtowncentrelocation at52PrincesStreet,orcallforbespokeguidedtoursofthearea. Theyalsooffertaxiservicesandluggagestorage.
Phone:01847 527272 or 07434333232
Bringingtheauldcountrytolifeforclanandancestralvisitors. Exploretheareaingroupsofupto7.
Phone:07854638268Email:info@robbiemactours.co.uk
Enjoy breath taking sea tours around the fascinating East Caithness coastline. This tour company operates from Wick Harbour Marina.
Phone: 01955609200 & 07747404128
Website: www.caithness-seacoast.co.uk
Northern Islands RIB Tour from Skerray Bay (Between Bettyhill & Tongue)
Phone: 07982 649635
Website: www.northcoastwatersports.com/ribtours
CatchtheHamnavoeFerryfromthePortofScrabsternear ThursotothequainttownofStromnessinOrkney. www.stagecoachbus.comforashortbusridefromThurso–Scrabster(alsoverywalkable!)and www.northlinkherries.co.ukforferrycrossingtimes.
Or…
Takebusnumber80fromThursotoeithertheGillsBayFerry TerminalorJohnO’Groats–ferriesfrombothplacestakeyou toStMargaret’sHopeinOrkney.www.stagecoachbus.com andwww.jogferry.co.ukforrelevanttimes–thelatteroperate day-toursofOrkneyduringtheSummerSeason.
Halkirk Highland Games The premier sporting event in the north of Scotland, attracting thefinest professionalandamateurathletes.Nearly100eventspackedintoanafternoon,it’s Scotland’s mini Olympic Games each year at the end of July - www.halkirkgames.co.uk
Caithness County Show with Caithness Agricultural Society - A milestone weekend in the local calendar celebrating the finest Caithness agricultural heritage. Takes place each July: the oddyearsinWick,theeveninThurso. - www.caithnessshow.co.uk
Mey Highland Games – The ultimate showcase of the spirit, talent and energy of Scotland’s farnorth;openingsportandCaithnessculturetovisitorsofallbackgroundsandlevelsofability everyyearonthefirstSaturdayofAugust www.meygames.scot
The Highlands and Islands Climate Festival – Annual celebration of community climate action. Who knows, you could be inspired to start your own climate action project! Takes placeeachSeptemberatvariouslocations. www.hiclimatefest.co.uk
Taste North Food Festival – UsuallyonaSundayinlate-SeptemberorOctober, ‘Samplefood fromlocaleateriesandproducers,tasteourlocaltipplesandseeanarrayofartisancraftsfrom righthereinCaithness&Sutherland.’Salivating www.venture-north.co.uk
Christmas Fun Day –ThefirstSaturdayofDecemberthroughouttheTownCentre:theofficial countdown to Christmas begins. Fancy dress, high spirits, local food & drink tastings, and plentyopportunitytopurchaseyourChristmasshoppingallinoneday!
Thurso’sLiveMusicitineraryopensat9pmeveryWednesdayatthe Comm Bar with live Scottish Folk Music sessions authenticandrousing.
Beyondthat,thetown’sstreetscometolifeeverySaturdayevening through the summer at 7.30pm when the Thurso Pipe Band take centre stage on Princes Street, stopping traffic to showcase an energisingarrayoftraditionalScottishmusicaltalent.
Royal British Legion in Thurso runs an impressive music calendar with something to suit all tastes. Keep up with what’s on here: www.rblsthurso.com
Mr C’s Bar is similarly committed to the live music programme, hosting a range of local and touring bands as well as open mic sessions.Checkout:www.facebook.com/MRCThurso/
Top Joe’s Bar,the Holborn Hotel andPopeyes Bar at Scrabsterare alsopartialtotheoccasionalshindig,soyou’reneverfarfromagood time.VisittheirFacebookpagesforupcomingevents.
Lyth Arts Centre is a 20-minute drive from Thurso and is the foremost cultural hub for Caithness & North Sutherland. Committed to hosting quality musical and theatrical performances, theirupcomingcalendarisamustsee:www.lytharts.org.uk
Highlife Highland haveacoupleofoutdoorrangersbasedinCaithnesstaskedwith guiding you to the more hidden beauty spots on top of running other insightful excursions. Visit www.highlifehighland.com/rangers/upcoming-events/ and look foractivitiestakingplaceinCaithnessandNorthSutherland.
Are you a hiker? The John O’Groats Trail organisation has made the Caithness beautiful yet abrasive coastline accessible to you with a series of ranger guided walks.Visitwww.jogt.org.uk/events-walkstoseewhat’sgoingonandwhen.
If you’re looking for the nitty-gritty of Caithness culture and heritage, Castlehill Heritage Centre inthe villageofCastletownisforyou.Theirseriesofworkshopsin traditional crafts that were once part of daily life in Caithness are a wholly unique cultural experience. Visit www.castletownheritage.co.uk for more, and check out thenearbyFlagstonetrail.
Interested in tracing your Family History? Caithness Family History Society can provide hands on information to help and will gladly meet you to go through records during your visit. Please contact them in advance to arrange. They also have a series of talks throughout the year. Nucleus—The North Highland Archive in Wick can also help with that important historical research and run a series of talks through the year. Visit www.caithnessfhs.org.ukformoreinformation.
VisitingWick?Wick Heritage Society isatreasuretroveofhistoryonthetown.The fantastic Johnson Collection of images or the Wick Voices oral history collection are activities in themselves. Enjoy trawling through detailed exhibitions incredibly piecedtogetherbyacommittedgroupofvolunteers www.wickheritage.org.uk
Wick
For a comprehensive calendar of events, visit www.whatson.caithness.org
Workspace+Coffee+Wi-Fi
Cardosi Café, the Holborn Hotel, the Pentland Hotel, Mr C’s Bar, Olive, Y-Not Bar & Grill and the Bluedoor Café all have WiFi and knowtheirwayaroundanespressomachine!
DoLaundry
ThursoLaundrette & Drycleaners: Open6 days a week, it is located behind the Co-op Supermarket on Riverside Place (Telephone: 01847893266)TherearealsowashingfacilitiesatJetPetrolStation, which is locatedon Ormlie Road, onthe right-hand side as youexit ThursoontheB874road.
CameraGear/ PhoneorLaptopChargers!
Sutherland’s Pharmacyon TraillStreet is the place for photography gear needs, while Vistravi Technology is conveniently located and hasa rangeofelectricalproducts Sutherland’sisyour best bet for chargers,cables,SDcardsandthelike.You’llfinditonPrincesStreet.
Buy Outdoor Gear Thurso’s High Street provides a promising cluster of options to fulfil your outdoor-wear needs. Harper’s Fly Fishing Service is reliable for rugged gear and equipment for more serious trips into the outdoors, complete with a small selection of campinggear.Likewise,CaithnessLivestockBreedersarereliablefor durableoutdoorsupplies.
McAllans & Buttress’s are a fine pair of independently owned and family run clothing shops on High St each with a variety of both fashionableandpracticalclothingoptions.
Thurso is serviced by 3 Petrol Stations Ormlie Road, Bridgend and in Manson’s Lane (24-hours!) There is also an electrical charging point at Scrabster Harbour and Thurso Leisure Centre. Banks with ATMs are located throughout the Town Centre. We’re the last fuel stop for some distance on the roads to the southandwest,top-upbeforeyouleave!
If you haven’t, download the Venture North Heritage App!
Caithness Broch Project: www.thebrochproject.co.uk
Thurso Heritage Society: www.thursointeractive.co.uk
Castlehill Heritage Centre: www.castletownheritage.co.uk
John O Groats Trail: www.jogt.org.uk
Wick Heritage: www.wickheritage.org
Wolfburn Distillery: www.wolfburn.com
Old Pulteney Distillery: www.oldpulteney.com
Rock Rose Gin: www.dunnetbaydistillers.co.uk
8 Doors Distillery: www.8doorsdistilery.com
Buses: www.stagecoachbus.com or www.traveline.info
Trains: www.scotrail.co.uk
Scrabster Ferry: www.northlinkferries.co.uk
Gills Bay Ferry: www.pentlandferries.co.uk
John O’Groats Ferry: www.jogferry.co.uk
Durness Bus: www.thedurnessbus.com
Lyth Arts Centre: www.lytharts.org.uk
Royal British Legion Thurso: www.rblsthurso.com
Mr C’s Bar: www.mrcthurso.co.uk
Thurso Cinema: www.thurso.merlincinemas.co.uk
Thurso Pipe Band: www.thursopipeband.co.uk
Caithness Family History: www.caithnessfhs.org.uk
North Highland Way: www.northhighland-way.com
Caithness Biodiversity: www.caithnessbiodiversity.org.uk
Caithness Archaeology: www.caithnessarchaeology.org.uk
Caithness Astronomy Group: www.spanglefish.com/ caithnessastronomygroup
Old St Peter’s Kirk Preservation Association on Facebook
North Point Distillery: www.northpointdistillery.com
John O’Groats Brewery:www.johnogroatsbrewery.co.uk
Laidhay Croft Museum: www.laidhay.co.uk
North Coast Visitor Centre: www.highlifehighland.com/ north-coast-visitor-centre
Castle of Mey: www.castleofmey.org.uk
Puffin Croft: www.puffincroft.com
See below for local taxi numbers, and flick to page 15 for a list of local tour guides.
For a comprehensive look at what’s going on in Caithness, visit www.whatson.caithness.org
There’s a sterling variety of accommodation options in Thurso and Caithness at large. The links below will guide you to the right abodes for your ideal Scottish holiday.
Venture North: www.venture-north.co.uk
Booking.com: www.booking.com
Visit Scotland: www.visitscotland.com/accommodation AirBnB: www.airbnb.co.uk
PFind the taxi rank in Thurso is on Princes Street in front of Sandra’s Hostel.
Your accommodation provider will gladly assist you in booking a taxi, alternatively, phone one of the following local services:
Meiklejohn’s Taxis: 07788497639
Harbour Taxis: 01847 892868
Pentland Cabs: 01847 895474
Highland Cabs: 01847 555555
Caithness Cabs: 01847 895677
Ormlie Taxis: 01847 893434
JC’s Taxi: 07359236608 or 07752254372
Sincere thanks to...
LisaPoulsenandherInspiredbyCaithnessblogforsomepricelesslocalknowledge,photos, andforbeingavocalambassadorforCaithness.
TotheThursoHeritageSocietyfortheirpartinpreservingThurso’sstoryandforabeing brilliantcommunityresource andOldStPeter’sKirkPreservationSocietyforsharingtheir detailedknowledgeofalocaltreasure.
GordonMackieandCaithnessAstronomyGroupfordivertingoureyestotreasuresinthe skyaboveusandsharinghisspectacularnightskyphotos.
JamesGunn,AndrewSimpson,NorthStone,GeorgeaMacLeod,StevieBruce,Karen Munro,ChrisSincair,BarryScollay,SusanAsherandNiallMansonforlearningtheartof photographysowedon’thaveto.Getintouchformoreinformationabouttheamazing photographsinthispack.
ThespiritedpeopleofThursoformakingittheplaceitis.Withoutyouthere’dbenothingfor ustopromote–this,andallotherThursoCommunityDevelopmentTrustinitiatives,will alwaysbeledbytheThursocommunity.
Andtoyou,ourvisitors,fordiscoveringThurso–sharewhatyoufoundwith #DiscoverThurso
Wehope thatyouenjoyyourstayhereinThurso,however,ifyoudorequireanyassistancethecontactsbelowwillbeablet
Ifyourmedicalproblemisnotalife buttheGPsareclosed,Phone111
Ifyourmedicalsituationisnotanemergency,readadocumentcalled‘HealthCareforHolidymakersfromOverseas’ ,itwillinformyou ofyourrightsregardingtreatmentinScotland.FinditsimplybyGooglingthetitle.GeneralPractitionersorGPs(equivalenttoPrimary CareProvidersandFamilyDoctorselsewhere)canbefoundattwo towncentrelocationsinThurso:
PrincesStreetSurgery
69PrincesStreet, Thurso
Telephone:01847893154
CaithnessGeneralHospital, Wick
Forgeneralhospitalservices: BankStreet, Wick, Caithness
Phone:01955605050
3HarboursMedicalGroup
JanetStreet
Thurso
Telephone:01847892027
DunbarHospital,Thurso
Forminorailmentsonly: OrmlieRoad, Thurso, Caithness
Phone:01847893263
TheVeterinarySurgeryinThursois:
DSMcGregor&Partners
JanetStreet
Thurso
Telephone:01847 892387
Thurso Community Development Trust and the Discover Thurso brand are community led initiatives aspiring to improve Thurso for the people who call it home, and for our guests.
Use the below QR code to find links to a handy Facebook group where you can ask questions about your upcoming trip and this booklet in a digital format.
WithgratefulthankstoourFundersandsupporters