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Lu xur y

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Volume FOrtY SEPt/OCT/NOV 2013

The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds

Publisher's PAs Indrie Raranta, Anis Kristiana

Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki

Graphic Designers Stuart Sullivan, Irawan Zuhri, Donny Bagus

Accounting Julia Rulianti

Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba

Publisher PT Luxury In Print

Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011

Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805 e:, The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Luxury In Print

#40: Kristian Schmidt rocks You know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

The Yak Magazine Bali.

min 16

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contents P: 100 Omnibus: I+SPY

26 30 34


Yakety yak

Hello #40 15 minutes

Sir John Peel dates With destiny

Number Crunchers


Charity Clarity


Nouveau ArrivĂŠe

one world

new in the hood


Shop Tastic


Space Heads

out of the box

culture vulture

82 20




Kristian Schmidt


Irene Hoff




Full Power


Cool Camilla




Go George


88 90 106


Sean Cosgrove travel

Morocco Moves feature

Body Bling


Strike A Pose



yak fashion




Sean Lee


Javier De Las Muelas





oral pleasures

oral pleasures


contents 134

Mejekawi at Ku


Cheeky Charlie


Fire In The House

144 146

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

Watercress oral pleasures

Latin Loves


The Big Six




To Have or To Hold

oral pleasures

constant wining

constant wining

164 22

156 158 162


Coming Down feature

Quarzia profile

Franklin's Way






Villa Bali Asri


The Suite Life


Mind The Gap

fashion forward

fashion Freestyle

venting in a villa

188 190 192 194

sounds around

DJ Harvey Film review

Jiro Dreams of Sushi; Jobs music review

High Fidelity astro yak

Star Turns


What's What


Made's Bali

advertiser's directory

last word






Orthorexia and digital dementia are currently trending in opposition. Most of us have yet to discover what they are, and if they are currently ‘trending’ within our cerebral and bodily hemispheres – obviously they are not newly discovered planets or horoscope influences. What, you may ask, do they have in common? Even as polar opposites they are in fact both obsessions. A positive and a negative. One is physical, the other obviously, mental. Firstly, the physical. Orthorexia is an extreme obsession with healthy eating – one imagines an axiom of ‘roots, shoots and leaves’ in the kitchen. A life dependent on knowing the properties of certain edible food sources: knowing that steamed rutabaga – dressed with ground flaxseeds and cumin with a side of mustard greens, olive oil and pomegranate dressing – will balance your hormones with no nasty side-effects; knowing we should take ‘black seed’ for everything but death, and knowing that turmeric is good for everything from arthritis to liver disease. Secondly and mentally, Digital dementia. According to Medical Daily, it is characterised as the ‘deterioration of brain function as a result of the overuse of digital technology, such as computers, smart phones and Internet use in general’. Something we will probably fall prey to just having to research the vast amount of information needed to fulfill our orthorexic desires! The other obvious connect that these two obsessions have, like all obsessions, is that neither sounds like much fun! So we suggest leaving it up to us at The Yak to do all the exias and the entias for you and introduce you to the playground of fun and frolics – both of which are said to be excellent sources for increased cerebral functions and the elongation of life! So, as an amuse bouche we present you with 15 minutes of Fame with John Peel, One World – our favourite charities of this issue, and New in the Hood before clearing the decks with Out of the Box and Spaceheads. Our first course is beautifully organic with photographer extraordinaire Kristian Schmidt and his taste of the wild. Interviews with a bunch of Baliphiles keep it sweet and zesty as we head to Morocco for a taste of travel. Time for a bit of digital dementia as ‘They’ tap in to our every move in Omnibus, before our obsession for jewelry and fashion take us out of our paranoia. It’s a seven-course orthorexic tasting menu through our Oral pleasure pages – health-kicking resto of note is Batubelig’s fabulously fresh Watercress. After a vitamin fix for those who dropped the health ball in Coming Down we feel healed and balanced enough to wrap ourselves in even more fashion and fill our ears with the organic sound of DJ Harvey. Finally we serve up some spiritual nutrition with Astroyak and say goodbye to you all until our next session… As ever: May The Yak be with you.


yakback Dear Yak, I nearly forgot to congratulate you on another awesome issue of The Yak, it’s always a pleasure to receive the magazine. The article ‘Alien Nations’ is fantastic, as are the photographs from Christopher Leggett, amongst other content that is so relevant and well-written. Have shared issues with many Jakarta-based friends as an example of a great publication here in Indonesia. Juliana, Bali. Much appreciated Juliana! Dear Yak, I met someone from the magazine the other day and I was blown away. I’ve been a fan ever since I saw a copy while on holiday in Bali and have been showing all my friends back here, it’s such a cool publication. Keep up the great work. Roberta, UK. So we shall Obi Wan. Dear Yak, Issue #39 was one of your best yet. A great balance of old and new Bali with some fascinating articles. I’ve become a fan of Andrew Hall’s Omnibus column. Always hits the issue on the head. Thanks. Daphne Jakarta. Like he needs the praise.

In Memoriam: Nyoman Sura Nyoman Sura was such a tower of strength and grace it's hard to believe he's gone. Recognised internationally and in Bali as a star of contemporary dance, Nyoman, 37, was a regular at The Yak Awards for several years and a dear friend of this magazine. Our thoughts are with his family and loved ones at this time. Rest in peace graceful human, you're not forgotten brother.

15 minutes

JOHN PEEL Fear & Loathing in Somerset – Jimmy Waters cuts loose at a music festival and celebrates one of the longest careers in radio . . .


Before I moved into the heady world of putting ink on paper for a living I spent a wonderfully entertaining three weeks at a radio station in the UK, happily dividing my time between composing soulless business dissertations, and the far more interesting composition of playlists and celebrity interviews for the newly launched “alternative” broadcaster. Talking my way into that job is another story entirely, and I remember specifically being told that, under no circumstances, was I to speak on air – an instruction I dutifully ignored in the first 30 minutes of being charged with the graveyard shift early on Saturday mornings. Unluckily for me the station director had tuned into the inaugural broadcast and, sure enough, the little red light on the studio phone lit up as soon as I had disengaged the mic channel. Luckily for me he had been drinking heavily and proceeded to occupy the best part of a half hour claiming I was a “natural talent” and detailing new tasks that I would be charged with starting on Monday morning – one of which was to be the lead presenter on the station’s soon-to-launch live festival broadcast programme. If I remember correctly this was around May in the early 2000's and the first festival on the cards was the mother of all British music events, Glastonbury. Armed with nothing more than a minidisc player/recorder (remember them?) and a dodgy mic we were dispatched into deepest darkest Somerset with a wheelbarrow full of scrumpy, several Access All Areas wristbands, and a large bag of, ahem, medicinal remedies. The brief was pretty straightforward – speak to famous people, return with five minutes of quality broadcast material, and have a good time. Things started to go wrong on the first morning at sunrise, when we were woken by a burly, pissed old chap stumbling over our tent pegs and crashing into bed with us. Our initial shock turned to surprise as we discovered our new tent guest was none other than the radio god himself, John Peel. Now it’s not every day that a person of Peel’s calibre pays a visit, so we were more than happy to extend our hospitality and cracked out the teapot and the first aid kit. As I recall, he was a true gent as he regaled us with festival war stories and anecdotes on his time spent in Dallas and Radio London, where he championed the likes of Pink Floyd and perfected the art of playing records at the wrong speed. On learning that we were there on a broadcasting mission of our own he escorted us around the VIP paddock introducing us to wide variety of celebrities – all of whom which he was on first name terms, and who were more than happy to provide 30-second sound bites. Legends met and brief satisfied we were left to our own devices for the next 48 hours with a new entourage of media misfits befriended in The Guardian hospitality tent. Things

always tend to get a little out of control when you’re armed to the teeth with VIP bracelets and it was only a matter of hours before we’d managed to raid The Smashing Pumpkins luxury tour coach, witnessed an extremely intoxicated Zoe Ball throwing up on Kate Moss’s cowboy boots, and knocked an unimposing impish character, who turned out later out to be Thom Yorke, into a six-foot muddy ditch. As the afternoon progressed things turned from messy to Hunter S. Thompson territory, culminating in a wild three-hour bender with Fatboy Slim. This orgy of self-destruction continued for another two nights and spiralled to such extremes that our partners in media crime at The Guardian failed to publish their daily festival zine on the Saturday. And we were given a good working over by the Pumpkins security detail after an anonymous tip-off led them to our tent and a stash of Billy Corgan’s finest bourbon. Clearly it was time to pack it in once Sunday morning swung round and we woke up under the jazz stage to discover our tent had been swiped along with wallets, wheelbarrow, John Peel’s signed sleeping bag and our prized Sony minidisc recorder. We had our suspicions it was a revenge robbery from the Pumpkins and toyed with the idea of interrogating a very smug looking Jamie Theakston who was hanging around our now vacant patch. But in the end it was all too much bother, and knowing that the return journey to reality and Radio Land would result in an instant dismissal for losing all broadcast material, we sloped off, past a derelict media tent, towards the nearest pub. A familiar figure was at the bar of the Castle Inn when we stumbled through the doors later that afternoon. “Boys, how the hell are you. You survived? I heard some stories of your escapades.” John Peel, in Wellington boots and a beaten-up army fatigue jacket lurched towards us. Drawn into a long conversation we explained the missing tent and possessions situation and he lent a sympathetic ear and several rounds of ale on Auntie’s tab. “Don’t worry lads, everyone gets a good firing from time to time”, he chortled as he signed a consolation-prize beer mat for us and headed for the door. “See you next year.” As it turned out we wouldn’t cross paths with the man himself the following year as he shuffled off to the great jukebox in the sky and we were duly ushered out of the broadcasting game by an irate station manager some 24 hours later. We took it on the chin . . . after all, it’s not every day you get career advice from the most famous man in broadcasting history.


datesWITHDESTINY September 21 to October 5 — Oktoberfest (Munich): Every year, millions of revellers descend on Munich to guzzle beer and fuel up on sauerkraut and weisswurst at lively beer tents set up in the centre of the city. The only rules are that the beer served at Oktoberfest must be brewed within the city limits of Munich and must be a minimum of six per cent alcohol, which makes for more than a few rowdy parties. If you really want to get into the spirit of Oktoberfest, grab a lederhosen or a dirndl, don a traditional Bavarian hat with a tuft of goat’s hair for good luck and join the throngs for some serious quaffing. October 11 to 15 — Ubud Writers and Readers Festival: This year marks the 10th anniversary of Southeast Asia’s most renowned literary event, the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. For 2013, the festival returns to its original theme of Through Darkness to Light (Habis Gelap Terbitlah Terang), which celebrates Indonesia’s pioneer of women’s

IF YOU’RE IN THAILAND. . . October 4 to 14 — Phuket Vegetarian Festival: Although the focus of this annual festival may be on all-veggie fare, the real draw for many people is the myriad bizarre rituals undertaken by Thai-Chinese devotees called ‘Ma Song’. On each day of the festival, the devotees go into deep trance and inflict pain on themselves to bring good luck to the community. This includes walking over burning coals, climbing ladders with blades for rungs and sticking all manner of sharp objects through the cheeks, including skewers, swords, and even umbrellas. Expect to see plenty of colourful parades in the streets of Phuket Town and ceremonies taking place at shrines and temples around the island, as well as tasty vegetarian cuisine everywhere you turn. November 17 — Loi Krathong: On the night of the full moon in November, Thais from all corners of the country create beautiful flower arrangements adorned with incense, candles and sometimes money, and release them to the sea or the rivers in the hopes of letting go of negative emotions. Many people also pray to the goddess of water to absolve them of their sins. Festivities take place across Thailand on this day, and include beauty pageants, competitions for the most elaborate flower arrangements and fireworks displays after dark. November 25 — Monkey Buffet (Lopburi): Legend has it that centuries ago, the heroic prince Rama built the city of Lopburi with the help of the Monkey King, Hanuman, and that is why multitudes of monkeys continue to call the city home today. Every year on the last Sunday of November, the inhabitants of Lopburi pay homage to Hanuman by offering up his descendants a feast of epic proportions. On this day, residents bring thousands of kilos of fruit, vegetables, candies and sodas to the monkeys’ home at 34

rights, R.A. Kartini. Events and workshops will focus on women’s stories, education and rights, as well as heroic and visionary women. Writers of all cultures and genres will be represented, including poets, travel writers, playwrights, graphic novelists and song writers to name a few, as well as thinkers, artists and musicians from Indonesia and beyond. November 21 to 26 — Bali Tango in Paradise: Following the wildly successful Tango in Paradise last year, Tango Lovers Jakarta will present the second Tango in Paradise in November, with lively milongas, workshops, classes, lectures and private lessons with maestros and master dancers, as well as a championship dance competition. Feel free to join tango dancers from around the globe as they share their knowledge, experience and love of this fascinating Argentinian dance at the stunning Ayung Resort in Payangan, Ubud.

the ancient Khmer temple Pra Prang Sam Yot, and watch on with delight as the monkeys devour their treats. IF YOU’RE IN AUSTRALIA. . . September 11 to 15 — Alice Desert Festival: Now in its 13th year, the Alice Desert Festival celebrates the unique cultures and lifestyles of Central Australia’s arid region with performances by artists, dancers and musicians from some of the remotest communities in the country, as well as some of Australia’s hottest acts. Set in Alice Springs, the festival will feature a street carnival, 24-hour dance marathon, open-air cinema, circus acts and special workshops and activities for kids. Different and diverse, the Alice Desert Festival showcases unique and diverse art forms borne of the desert, not in spite of location and climatic extremes, but because of them. September 21 to October 2 — The Royal Melbourne Show: With heaps of free activities and entertainment, there’s nothing quite like the Royal Melbourne Show. Think prize-winning animals and livestock, award winning food and wine, arts and crafts, carnival rides, showbags, free live entertainment, spectacular fireworks and much more. Head to the Tastes of Victoria Pavilion for cooking classes with master chefs and sommeliers, hit up the Adventure Zone for rock climbing, water balls and the giant ferris wheel, and grab your Royal Melbourne Fine Food Deli Showbag stuffed with delicious Victorian produce so you have something to munch on as you watch the nightly fireworks displays. October 1 to 31 — Good Food Month (Sydney): For the entire month of October, the The Sydney Morning Herald will host the 11th Good Food Month in Sydney with mouthwatering food events taking place at venues across the city. Keep your eye out for celebrity chefs from some

of the world’s best restaurants, the Shoot the Chef culinary photographic competition, and the Hats off Dinners, when specially chosen restaurants get to show off what makes them appetising. Also returning this year are the Night Noodle Markets, when Hyde Park transforms into a giant Asian hawker style market with food stalls selling everything from Peking Duck to Laksa. IF YOU’RE IN THE UK. . . September 21 — The Great Gorilla Run (London): Grab your gorilla suit (no—not a tux, but an actual gorilla suit), and head to Mincing Court to join hundreds of other runners also dressed in gorilla suits to walk, run or jog the 7km fun run course past some of the most iconic landmarks throughout the city of London. In the 10 years that the event has been taking place, runners have raised more than £1.9 million for biodiversity conservation and poverty reduction projects in central Africa. Registration is £80 and includes a gorilla suit that you get to keep, plus, the Great Gorilla Run events team will provide you with support prior to the event to help you reach your fundraising goals and shape up for the race. October 3 to October 21 — London Restaurant Festival: This three-week festival features fabulous foodie events that celebrate London’s best restaurants and chefs. There are events to suit all budgets and palates, with enticing fixed-price menus at dining venues across the city, gastronomic tours of foodie havens, culinary debates, food-themed film nights and a challenging foodie quiz that will take place in more than 100 venues simultaneously. Visit any one of the hundreds of participating restaurants to experience how creative, delectable, and sustainable London’s thriving food scene can be.



Luke Mangan is one of Australia’s leading chefs and restaurateurs and a shining example of Australia’s culinary culture. Now he’s growing that culture in Sentosa Seminyak, home to his latest restaurant, Salt tapas. Daily from 11am until late For reservations call Sentosa Seminyak on (0361) 737 675 Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, Seminyak Bali, Indonesia 80361 t. +62 361 730333 | f. +62 361 730333 |

giving back Friends of the National Parks Friends of the National Parks Foundation (FNPF) was formed in 1997 by a group of concerned veterinarians, and community minded Indonesians, with the goal of creating and running sustainable community-based conservation that would respect the interdependence of wildlife, habitat and local communities. Since its inception, this grassroots, not-for-profit organisation has received considerable international recognition and support for their projects on Bali, Nusa Penida and in Kalimantan (Borneo). One of the reasons that FNPF has been so successful in their endeavours is that they have a deep insight and understanding into local Indonesian communities. With Indonesian founders and key staff members, the organisation understands the local cultures, situations, needs and challenges. FNPF’s Founder and CEO, Dr I Gede Nyoman Bayu Wirayudha says, “For conservation projects to be effective they have to be holistic. All of FNPF’s projects are designed to protect wildlife, its habitat, and at the same time support local communities.” For this reason, FNPF strives to work closely with local communities, government officials, researchers, volunteers, and the global conservation community not just to protect the environment, but also to improve the wellbeing (social and economic) of the local communities in the areas of each project and to empower the local people to do the same. Since 1997, FNPF has been working in Kalimantan and Borneo, where the habitats of orangutans are rapidly disappearing as a result of deforestation for palm oil plantations. Over the years, the foundation has relocated numerous orangutans to safety in the Tanjung Puting National Park and Lamandau River Wildlife Reserve. Although government regulations now prevent organisations from releasing orangutans into areas where they were already living, FNPF still monitor the numbers of orangutans in the wild in Borneo, and work to rebuild their habitat by planting thousands of seedlings. Its projects in Borneo also include monitoring existing forests, supporting community development programs and providing environmental education to the local people. FNPF also works in Nusa Penida, where they set up a Conservation and Community Development Centre near the village of Ped and began mobilising local communities on the island to protect endangered birds from poachers. In doing so, FNPF has transformed the island of Nusa Penida into a sanctuary for endangered indigenous birds. Here, the birds are rehabilitated and released to live and 38

stephanie mee focusses on wildlife conservation and disease prevention.

breed freely on the island. Driven by the desire to save one of the world’s most endangered birds from extinction in the wild, FNPF now uses the bird sanctuary on Nusa Penida for its Bali Starling Conservation project. More recently, FNPF was asked by the Indonesian government to take over Bali’s only Wildlife Rescue Centre (only one of eight in Indonesia). At the centre, located in Tabanan, full-time staff and volunteers work together to rescue wildlife from illegal captivity, care for injured and ageing animals, and when possible, rehabilitate and release the animals into the wild. Also on request, this time by the local community, FNPF has created a wildlife sanctuary in the forest next to Bali’s Besikalung Temple, and has since released over 50 birds into this sanctuary zone. The project has received strong community support, and FNPF hopes to expand the sanctuary in the future to cover a much larger area. All of the projects that FNPF runs are funded entirely by donations from individuals, international NGOs, small businesses and corporations, and the funds are used in a transparent manner for all to see. The organisation warmly welcomes volunteers, fund-raising efforts and donations, and encourages interested parties to contact them for information about how to help. Bali Against AIDS Founder and organiser of Designers Against AIDS, Ninette Murk, always had a special place in her heart for Bali. This is where she married her husband in 2008, and they both fell in love with the island for its people, culture and nature. When she heard that HIV infections were on the rise on the tropical island, she knew she had to use her expertise to help. Ninette founded Designers Against AIDS (DAA) in Belgium in 2004 in an effort to raise awareness about the disease in the international media and reach young people through well-known celebrities from the music, fashion, sports and arts industries. DAA’s aim is to utilise pop culture to incite interest and curiosity about HIV and AIDS and to encourage acceptance of equal rights for seropositive people. Since its inception, DAA has received a vast amount of coverage in the media, and their website has become its most important platform to supply people with links to AIDS organisations so that visitors can learn how to protect themselves and how to help others who are less fortunate than they are.

Recently, Indonesia’s newswire, Antara, reported that there are now over 7,300 known cases of HIV and AIDS infections on Bali–a number double to what it was just five years ago. Even more shocking, Professor Mangku Karmaya of the AIDS Control Commission says that 40 per cent of the people infected are between 20 and 29 years old. This increase, especially among young people, prompted Ninette to create Bali Against AIDS (BAA) in the same vein as DAA. She says, “We love the island, and it seems such a shame that many people get ill, and some still even die because of a lack of information. Our goal is to reach as many Indonesian young people as possible, and as Bali is more liberal and relaxed than some other parts of Indonesia, it was the perfect place to start BAA. BAA will have a lot in common with DAA, but it will have a strong Balinese identity.” In April and May of this year, Ninette brought together tourism students and potential future activists and trainers in BAA’s first HIV prevention workshops in Sanur. The courses aimed to raise awareness and train local young people how to fight against HIV/AIDS. BAA also launched its website this year, which includes information about HIV/AIDS organisations in Bali and abroad, and where to go for help or to get tested. The F.A.Q. section allows people to ask questions anonymously and get answers from professionals, and the blog and a news section will relay important news about HIV/AIDS from Bali and around the world. Ninette has big plans for BAA for the future, with social media playing a huge role and a free concert next year in Denpasar in the works, with local bands, DJs, and information booths of NGOs working with young people. BAA also plans to work with students from the Green School to help with promotion. BAA’s slogan is ”If you're old enough to have sex, you're old enough to have safe sex” and they plan to promote this concept by engaging young people at all levels of society. She says, “When we launched Bali against AIDS for the media, we attracted a lot of press and got some great articles in local and national media. As even some journalists in Bali have no idea about the increase in HIV infections in Bali, it confirmed my idea that Bali against AIDS is indeed needed and can hopefully be useful in preventing some HIV infections in the future.”

PLAY PEN FOR ADULTS Centrally located in Seminyak, Villa Elegancia is designed as party central and as a “modern day utopia” by Renato Guillermo De Pola whose OTT designs stretch across Europe in France, Switzerland, Belgium, Netherland and notably Ibiza, where his boutique hotel, Le Jardins de Palerme, became the place to see and be seen. The villa is kitted out so you can stay at home and entertain yourself or step out the door for more nightlife. Beautiful glass, wood and stone floors light up at night creating a disco or a catwalk depending on your mood. A glass staircase that sits above an indoor garden leads up to three of the four bedrooms with every comfort. A Boretti kitchen and indoor and outdoor dining tables let the professional staff entertain you in style depending on your whim. Tel: 081337790790 Yak Map. R.7

SEEING STARS Michelin starred celebrity chef, Ezio Gritti, has cooked for Armani, Henry Kissinger and Gianni Angelli among others. Now he is coming to cook for you too at Solata. Chef Gritti uses gold and silver cookware for their excellent heating properties and knows no bounds when it comes to the art of perfection. Familiar on the celeb circuit in Italy, Indonesia is now being graced by this master chef with his good looks, personality and charm. Gals will be gasping, men can fumble to pick up the check while, quite frankly, we try to pick up the cook. [You're fired - Ed].

BEACH BLANKET BINGO Well-loved Nammos beach club at Karma Kandara is rebranding as Karma Beach Bali on Bali’s “Billionaire Row” on the Bukit Peninsula. The white sandy beach cove is fringed by an irresistible cerulean lagoon perfect for kayaking, snorkeling or stand-up paddle boarding. Chosen by CNN Traveler as amongst the “World’s 50 Best Beach Bars”, see for yourself and slink up to the bamboo-clad bar or lounge on a daybed with an ice cold “Chakra Cocktail” to suit your mood or partake in fresh fish plucked from the Indian Ocean in front of you. With double daybeds for up to 10 people and private butlers … it’s beach blanket bingo all the way. Tel: 294357

Tel: 869 9968

MAKE THE PILGRIMAGE Gourmet travellers and locals alike are making the pilgrimage to Ku De Ta’s latest dining concept Mejekawi (meaning sacred table). Leave it to the pro's at Ku De Ta to come up with another mind-altering experience and we aren’t talking about the August parties. Mejekawi, a new tasting restaurant that serves seven-and 11-course meals with wine pairings if your so inclined. Situated on the sleek modern rooftop sits a high glass wall surrounding the dining area, open laboratory kitchen, and a beachfront patio for après and pre dinner drinks. Prepare to be blown away, it’s theatre, fine dining and people watching all in one. Tel: 736 969 Yak Map. N.8


2.0 gets a 10/10 Two Point O (2.0) is a new eclectic fashion boutique at the Beachwalk in Bali with over 15 brands to chose from. Internationally known brands like Komodo, a UK based brand, known for it’s organic and sustainable fashion, and one of our faves, Religion, are mixed with the hippest local designers offering everything from casual wear, to beach wear to street wear. Labels are for men and women so it’s fun for couples to play dress up together, and the mix of collections at 2.0 defines its tagline “Eclectic Fashion Bar”. Tel: 846 5005 Yak Map. Y.12

beachfront LV8 New all-suites hotel LV8 gives beachfront a new meaning with a lounge and pool area that is surrounded by water and right at the water’s edge. Floor to ceiling windows in the suites, some with balconies, maximise the ocean views and to the right of the property is a view of untouched rice fields. Incorporating the best of Bali with a colonial exterior and all the latest mod cons LV8 is a welcome addition to the hood. Tel: 894 8888 Yak Map. J.2

diy spa Kayumanis Spa in Ubud has unveiled a spa experience that allows guests to create their own lotions and potions. Guests pick fresh herbs, spices and plant materials and learn how to prepare ingredients to produce beauty products straight from the garden. Treatment includes a spa garden tour, product demonstration, and aromatherapy foot-bath, relaxing message and lular body scrub. Three hours of indulgence. Tel: 705 777

TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Get “zoological” at the Bali Zoo with wildlife in eco-friendly habitats, hands-on petting of deer, bear-cats, baby crocs and more … and observing lions and tigers and bears. “Take Care of an Elephant” at Mahout-for-a-day is truly interactive and you get to care for a Sumatran elephant as part of your day, and learn how to bathe and train them then take one of these lovelies for a 45-minute test drive around the grounds. Younger ones will love the petting zoo with lots of coos and cuddles. If you want to tame your beast dine with him or her at the “Okavango Restaurant” that is part of the spacious open lion habitat where the only thing separating you from being a meal is a high glass wall. Tel: 294357

GOING TO THE CHAPEL Good to hear, the very popular Tirtha’s Weddings on the Bukit is now expanding to Singapore. The inspirational Japanese couple who created the concept has perfected the art of commitment. As an innovator of unique weddings and locations, Tirtha Weddings offers traditional and custom-designed religious ceremonies to any couple wishing to have a destination wedding on locales other than Bali. Of course Bali does it best so when you're throwing in the towel and saying … I doooooo … you now have options. Unique services and facilities of Tirtha Bridal are an exclusive bridal boutique which offers gowns, tuxes, and all the bells and whistles to make your big day that much more palatable. Tel: 847 1151


The Sushimi Train Bondi meets Tokyo in the funky new sushi train restaurant, Sushimi, smack bang in the middle of the neon drag Dhyana Pura Street. Internationally renowned sushi chef, Mark Gao, formerly of The Establishment in Sydney, has given Sushi a shine in bold dishes that reflect what’s happening right now in sushi culture. Adding an element of theatre to this funky culinary journey, chefs create new plates throughout the evening, adding them to the train as it continues its journey around the granite benches. “We’re right up front with freshness, guests can watch as our local sushi chefs create the plates using beautiful produce and painstaking techniques. We’re all about having fun and making sure the product is fresh with great visual impact and fabulous flavours,” says Mark. A small but delicious a la carte menu, a selection of local and Japanese beers and a great location makes Sushimi a cool pick for your summer hot list. Fast, fresh, fabulous, a must-go-to when in Bali. Tel: 737816 Jl Dhyana Pura (Camplung Tanduk) 4x.

VIN+ Seminyak is the newest VIN+ outlet in Indonesia and the first for Bali. Comprising a wine retail store, restaurant and wine lounge, they offer an unrivalled wine and dine experience. VIN+ Seminyak features a premium temperature controlled wine room that houses some of the world's finest and most exclusive labels and vintages, two private dining rooms that can be combined as one, a mezzanine event space, and a restaurant with open and alfresco seating set in the tropical garden. The retail space has a wine stock of more than 18,000 bottles comprising of over 250 different varieties from the old and new worlds. They also provide door-to-door service. A first for Bali. All wines from the retail store can be purchased for dine-in at the same price with only service charge for staff added. The VIN+ Seminyak Restaurant & Wine Lounge is scheduled to open this September 2013. Tel: 4732377 Yak Map: 0.7


Bali’s Hippest Guide Now in its fourth edition, threesixtyguide Bali’s 2013/14 edition is available in leading bookstores, hotels and boutiques. Bali’s best-selling guide is also a free app – download anywhere in the world and book direct at the guide’s selection of the most gorgeous resorts on the island. Dine at 360’s favorite restaurants and spas, play with some of the island’s best activities, and check out the island’s coolest shopping. Then plan your stay at the island’s sexiest resorts and villas. This year the app launches on Android. Beautifully presented, fully interactive, plan your entire trip before you arrive and enjoy the savings of booking direct. Download Bali’s best direct to your phone or tablet. The new edition app is released in September. Whatever your vice, whatever your device, get appwardly mobile with threesixtybali.

Kupu Kupu Barong Mango Tree Spa with L’Occtaine products offers private spa rooms in the treetops, literally. With a unique steam bath which can help you in any climate, the spa at Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud sits high above the Ayung River Valley and offers six exclusive treatment rooms across the property, each specially designed to harmonise with the characteristics of specific treatments offered. Chill. Tel: 975 478

Super Dupa Dupa is a great new eatery located on Jalan Drupadi, Seminyak. With parking for both cars and bikes, Wi-Fi equipped, and next one of the few remaining rice-fields in the area, Dupa gives visitors an exciting new dining option. Dupa is a unique concept for Seminyak whereby you can find all your favourites under one roof, including: Swich – which serves some of the freshest sandwiches on the island with their slogan "just the way you like it". Create your ultimate sandwich, wrap, salad or smoothie here, or try some of their famous options such as Kung Pow, Tempting Tempe, schnitzel burger and Lola. Thai Corner – serves fresh authentic Thai cuisine. Make sure you try the chef's recommendations, Pad Sei Eiw and Chicken Cashew Nut. Also try Baby Biku – from the iconic Biku restaurant. Dupa is open from 9am to 5pm and will soon be open for dinner. Yak Map ref: T.9

TOP OF THE BAY Harris Hotel Bukit Jimbaran has opened a rooftop bar and lounge aptly called Jim’bar’N with 360-degree views that will knock your flip flops off. With tented ceilings and a seductive phonic infrastructure for surround sound, this is both party central and a place to enjoy intimate dining. If you're ready to take it to the next level check out the new wedding chapel or hold off and just have a swinging singles' party instead. The choice is yours at Jim’bar’N. Tel: 846 8777

SPANISH NIGHTS A brand new high concept Spanish dining affair is now available for the discerning diner perched amongst the skylines of Jimbaran at The Longhouse. The culinary forces behind El Kabron have teamed up to present a luxurious six course rustic degustation menu for those that possess a desire to experience the twinkling panorama of the island paired with exquisite Spanish cuisine, courtesy of Chef Marc Torices. Available for discerning groups of up to 12, Intmio at The Longhouse is an intimate and highly unique venue offering panoramic views from Nusa Dua to Seminyak and beyond. Stay the night and appreciate the serenity of the property and a poolside breakfast. Not to be missed. Tel: 7803416


a cut above Christophe Salon, after the French master of the same name, knows exactly what you need to get those tresses out of their mess. Precision cutting, top products, and all of the latest European treatments are what you can expect at this bijoux salon. Keratase products and Keratin Brazilian blowouts are also part of the draw as are waxing, face, and body treatments. Hit the road in style. Tel: 738 025 Yak Map. W.10

I just discovered the best hidden spot.

By reservation only +62 361 731343 One Eleven 2 nd Floor #3 Pangkung Sari Seminyak 80361 Bali, Indonesia

Feed your imagination.

HEAD JOB We all have one but now you can have even more in every shape, size, form, medium and colour imaginable. Vera, owner of the new boutique, Skull, sells all things with the skull motif. Objects, paintings, clothing and furniture are sourced from around the world including Europe, Asia and Mexico, and brought to Bali. Celebrating “eternal life”, Vera saw a niche in the market and has filled it with a one-of-a-kind boutique. Tel: 716 1731 Yak Map. T.3

Queen's of India Aficianados of fresh authentic Sub Continental food are celebrating a move north to Ubud by one of our favourite restaurants, Queen's of India. Located directly across from the Royal Palace and close to Monkey Forest, Queen's offers a smorgasbord of regional dishes prepared by Indian chefs. Queen's brings a well of experience and talent to their tables – the chain has another three locations in Nusa Dua, Seminyak and Kuta, all of which are feted for their fine food. www.bali.queenstandoor. com


COMFORT FOOD Habitual (Quench and Feed) serves up brekkie, brunch and early sups from Tuesday through Sunday with a relaxed cozy ambiance that’s so comfortable you could be forgiven for thinking you're at home. Comfort food is all about from where you hail … in this case Chef Sandy comes to us from Long Island with new takes on old favourites. Habitual’s brunch is moorish with poached eggs, smoked salmon, sautéed spinach on crispy hash browns topped with creamy Hollandaise, and the classic Baked Eggs with Spicy Pork Sausage, or for veggies Spinach and Cream served straight out of the oven. Another of Shandy's foods is a classic hamburger and fries – a hard-to-find commodity in the hood. Yum. Tel: 918 1801 Yak Map Q.2

BAREFOOT ON THE BEACH Barefoot? Not us … we wear the uber-trendy Havaianas sold at Universo – the place for island essentials, Seafolly bikinis, flip flops, hats, bags, beach towels and just about anything you need other than the sand and sea. Keep on flipping and flopping between which style you want for the day with Pininho – the super cute sandal charms made of the same high quality Havaiana’s Brazilian rubber. The latest addition to the multiple stores on the island is Universo Oberoi 2. Tel: 847 5733 Yak Map: Q.8

ANDIAMO Uma Cucina Adorable Uma Ubud has a new Italian restaurant, Uma Cucina, for louche lunches and early evening nosh on the open-air terrace. Informal and fun, the design has been overseen by well known architect Cheong Yew Kuan, the chap behind the Como Shambala Estate. A large communal dining table sits at the heart of the space and reflects the homely “cucina”, meaning “kitchen”, spirit. Italian-inspired dishes by Chef Lazzaroni follow Como’s adherence to locally sourced seasonal veg, seafood and slow cooked meats, just like mama used to make. Tel: 978 8888

bags, bikes, barang and more from bali's design meisters.

Wallet prints from 69Slam. from IDR 120.000



kit from Deus Ex Machina.

Pack it up and ride. Full

Ridgebake iPad Mini cases. IDR 210.000. Bags from IDR 890.000.


Slim Print Animals by havaianas, from idr 249.000.

top: Tavolo Xz3 table by Magis Design From sks.


culture vulture

aisha johan and sam kelly are a design collective whose work currently adorns the walls of swoon gallery in sanur. interview: tony stanton.

Aisha and Sam, where are you both from and what's your story? A: I am of Sumatran descent, born in Jakarta, lived in Japan for a while. After living in Sapporo, my parents felt that living in Jakarta was a bit too much. We couldn't walk to places, we also realised people weren't as friendly, we couldn't really relate to most of the people anymore. We then decided to move to Bali; it was one of the best decisions they made for us. And then I told my parents I'd like to study in New Zealand, which is where I met Sam in a graphic design class. S: I have pretty much lived my whole live in Central Auckland. Last year I completed a Bachelor of Fine Arts, majoring in graphic design, in the same class as Aisha. Since then we have been doing some freelance work and design for friends as well as working on some upcoming exhibitions both in Auckland and Bali. Let's talk about Space . . . A: Sam used to take me to walk around town at odd hours, most of the time doing nothing. Lingering around alleyways, exploring the backs of buildings and abandoned car parks. I find it extremely interesting because I didn't grow up in such surroundings. But that was way before the Rugby World Cup – now everything is all flash, brand new and plain. The boring, grey concrete city has sort of pushed me into creating works that look a little bit more interesting and stand out. S: I find the idea of public space fascinating, as I became interested in design through doing graffiti, which is as much about space is as it is about getting recognised. Painting in Auckland, the places that attract my eye when looking for spots always have to have a certain character about them. A grimy, neglected wall looks good with a two-colour throwie – it adds contrast and change back to the surrounding area. Even the surface that you write on can mark you as inexperienced as a writer. It seems strange, for instance, to go do a throw-up in the suburbs, everything is new and clean and it just looks out of place. New buildings have no character, they don't make


for a nice worn canvas. It's almost as though the letters and environment compliment one another. I find it interesting that there are unwritten rules in this subculture that relate to space and the way we use it and they are usually taken seriously. What's the connection with Bali? A: I live in K Road, and if you have been to Auckland you would know how different it is from living in Banjar Tangtu. I live in a warehouse conversion loft, where, in order to get to it, you'd have to walk up a full-on tagged-up alleyway and stairwell. But it's great! I get to appreciate the best bits of both environments, and I mean really appreciate it. Bali is home, so when I am back in Auckland trying to create work, everything you see and do becomes more vivid and this influences my work. S: Having lived in Auckland my whole life which can be gloomy sometimes, it is a nice change to visit Bali for a while. The change in surroundings is so different and after a few days your mindset changes. Bali is so chilled, and a stark contrast to New Zealand's rules and regulations. I've noticed Bali becoming a lot more built up, so for me Bali is always changing and never boring. It is rapidly undergoing modernisation while still retaining traditional values and pastimes which is rare in a shrinking world. I am always being inspired by the different typography and cultural designs specific to different countries. Foreign concepts are interesting to me. What's the point of what you're doing in the world today? A: I'm still figuring out what I'm actually doing, but I have learned so much from my mother – to be a kind person: to each other, to the earth. S: To keep me sane and give other people who like the same things as me some cool shit to look at and hold on to. What media works for you? A: I have always been into collage, it's heaps of fun! But mainly, because I am a hoarder, I keep a lot of magazines, labels and packaging, so the materials are easily accessible to me. I also like working with ink jet printers and photocopy machines. They allow intervention such as human errors, as part of creation process. S: Spray paint, markers, pens and collage. However, for

"Our own environmental backgrounds have influenced the way we live and work, specifically as visual artists," says Aisha.


culture vulture

commercial and gallery work I like working on vector illustrations the most, as I feel they have a nice strong impact about them. I enjoy all types of lowbrow art as I feel it usually relates to a wider range of people. I don't like to analyse it too much, I just like stuff that looks cool. When did you make the choice not to work in a bank? A: To be honest, I haven't been able to get a societally-approved job because I don't have any experience in retail or customer service and I probably wouldn't stand it. I lack the skills, the motivation and just the whole understanding of what it takes to be able do a nine-to-five job. Unfortunately, the only work I have the drive and passion for are the ones that revolve around gallery work like art handling, and artist liaison or graphic design. S: I actually do work nine-to-five in a printing warehouse five days a week. It's not my passion but it allows me to work on my painting and design in my spare time. If I was funneling all my creative energy into a full-time design job I don't think I would be as active with my own work. Ideally I would work a few less days and put more time into my art. It's good for now but in the future I would like to get paid for doing what I love. What does money mean to you? A: Rent and food. That's all I can say about money right now. S: My time. Sometimes money isn't worth the time you spend earning it. What does beauty mean to you? A: I tend to consider things to be beautiful when they are unwanted by others. S: Something rare and different from the norm. What languages do you speak? A: Indonesian and English are my first languages. I speak a bit of Japanese. And I understand bahasa Minang: my father is the Datuk of this beautiful little village in West Sumatra so I heard it being spoken around the house on a daily basis growing up. S: I only speak English bro. What music are you listening to? A: I listen to odd mixture of music – instrumental, hip-hop, and jazz mainly. My grandfather used to play upright bass for a jazz band in medical school and he would tell me stories about it so I

guess my interest in that particular genre comes from there. I feel that I get to relate to him through it . . . which is cool . . . we still sing Blue Moon together when I am home to see him. S: I listen to mostly independent hip-hop as I feel it has the most substance and grit to it. I like the idea of music made entirely by the artist for the artists. At the moment I'm listening to a lot of UK hiphop like Split Prophets, Tommy Dockerz, Jam Baxter etc. I am also listening to our good mate from Bali who has settled in Auckland called Wayvee, who has been quite successful in the international underground scene, and we have done a couple of track cover artworks for him. Where do you see yourselves in 10 years? A: I don't know, I just want to be happy. S: Don't know. I never plan ahead further than six months. If you had to lose one of your senses, which would it be? A: Touch maybe? It'd be sweet if I can't feel pain. S: My ability to see dead people . . . When were you last sad? A: I can't remember, I try not to think about it too much. Negative energy sucks all the positive energy I need to do what I like to do. S: I get sad every-time I have to get up and go to work. I would way rather contribute something meaningful like a piece of design to society and get paid for it rather than trade my daylight hours for a roof over my head. It can be a good thing though. It pushes you to create more art. I want to be more than just a machine. The world is coming to an end in five minutes. What goes through your mind? A: Go on to the rooftop, that way I get the best view of the world ending. S: Pat myself on the back that I didn't follow too many rules.

Space: A series of abstract selfportraits.



offshore Sergio Supina is an Italian architect who bought a beautiful example of traditional SulawEsi shipbuilding . . . and took to it with a chainsaw. After a couple of years toil – and considerable financial investment – Sergio has created a craft that is absolutely unique . . . it’s a good bit Phinisi and a lota rock ‘n’ roll. by andrew Hall.


In Benoa harbour there are many different kinds of seagoing vessels, including one of those white fiberglass super yachts with all its baubles and bits, but one boat blows the others out of the water. Its aesthetic is simultaneously somewhat familiar and really, really . . . unusual – a coalescence of classic, and ultramodern sleek. A visual anomaly that begs the question: “Is the person who designed this barking mad, or an artistic and engineering savant?” Sergio is intense. His project, Dragoon130, is simply stunning. “The boat was used by a cargo company (moving cement) between Makassar and Papua for four years . . . it was built in 2008 . . . and is probably one of the last boats that were built out of kayu ulin (iron wood) from Kalimantan,” Sergio says. It had two decks above the main deck and was 10 metres longer when Sergio got his hands on it by way of a family in Sulawesi and a bag full of cash. “When I bought it we went directly to Lombok to cut everything . . . and I lost 50 cubic metres of kayu ulin because the people there took it off the beach,” he says. Unfazed, Sergio then sailed the, yet-to-be-named, boat to Benoa where a team of Bugis craftsmen went to work to transform the Phinisi into the dream that Sergio had had ever since he promised his dying father, Francesco (a keen sailor), that he would build the most beautiful boat imaginable. “I was feeling him here during the rainy season while we were rebuilding the boat,” Sergio says. At the age of 23 Sergio – following in his famous father’s footsteps – was the youngest architect in Italy, working out of Napoli. Striking out on his own he plied his trade throughout the world in places like the U.S., the Middle East . . . and shortly before he came to Bali, working as an architect in Afghanistan during the height of the war there – designing military bases. In 2011 he came to Bali with a vision in his head – to combine a sea-going cultural classic with contemporary composition – a functional aesthetic balance between two very different parts of the world. “By taking away something (i.e. the upper deck structure) I added something,” Sergio says. What he added was a structure made from hefty pieces of teak, an awful lot of fiberglass, a stripped down, fully equipped, cockpit – which is the only feature visible on the upper deck – and a Jacuzzi swimming pool.

This is a party boat, friends . . . for 150-plus people. Below decks we find the expansive bar/galley area that contains two long bars and a plethora of upholstered bar stools. There’s the adjoining entertainment lounge with a huge flat-screen and a Bose sound system – a system that provides the vibes throughout Dragoon . . . a name that is steeped in military history, and that also relates to the island of Komodo. Downstairs are six air conditioned cabins – all with ensuite bathrooms – that are kitted out in luxurious fashion with the latest electronic gizmos, and all the things a person could wish for in a bit of R&R on the high seas. Sergio has been fastidious in every aspect of Dragoon’s design, and the subtle lighting in the public areas is no exception. The light emanates from behind rich wood panelling below deck. And up top the curvaceous party zone transforms in the evening with soft LCD pastels that turn the deck into a venue that one might find on land in London or Paris . . . with the added benefit that you’re sailing (well, not really sailing, because Sergio chopped the mast off ) in a tropical paradise. “But I am not intending to do a lot of long live-aboard cruising,” Sergio says. “I am developing a completely new market for Bali . . . Dragoon is designed as a party boat where many people can come together on short trips – we don’t have to go far – to have an amazing experience in an environment that doesn’t exist anywhere else. “We will also do sunset dinner cruises and other special trips . . . full-moon parties, things like that.” A radical departure from his former life, Sergio made the decision to come to Bali for a change of pace. But he’s been working pretty hard since then. “I decided to change my lifestyle . . . finish to fight . . . change my mood,” he says. Things got pretty ugly in Afghanistan. In creating Dragoon, Sergio is more than likely to change the mood of many others as well because there is really nothing like it on the seas around Bali. It is visually spectacular. And, in keeping with the expansive vision of this Italian architect – who had never built a boat before – it is purpose-built for the pleasure of others. The evening before I visited Dragoon, Sergio hosted a party for 120 people . . . and by the looks of the photos, they had a very, very good time.

happy days aboard dragoon.




Mark Baker talks with photographer Kristian Schmidt about his high velocity career,

swimming with whalesharks, saving the world and why he just wants to sleep in his own bed. For once.


incoming kristian on tour.


Dateline: New York City – crossroads of the world. Magnet for every dreamseeking, talented idealist, black sheep in the western hemisphere. I’ve seen them all come and go. Virtually all start their city life and career in the downtown clubs and bars of Manhattan. Some shine, some drop out, some die and some rise to stratospheric success. Some have a look, some a style, a voice, a talent . . . And then one in a million have it all . . . they possess the elusive "It" factor. Kristian Schmidt has such credentials, and then some. I first saw Kristian holding court at one of my clubs a few years ago . . . laughing, surrounded by a gang of very cool people and some very beautiful girls. He shined and I made it my business to get to know this young man. I had no doubt that he would succeed at anything he wanted to do . . . and in the past two years I have seen Kristian rise to the top of the extremely competitive fashion art and photography scene. He's original and represents a new generation of cool, yet still finds time to do amazing philanthropic work. He works and plays hard, travels nonstop, and judging by his Facebook posts has the world watching his every move. It’s his time right here, right now – I wondered what makes him tick. So, K, give us the basics . . . Kristian Schmidt, 36, from Sweden, Japan, France, and NYC. I live in hotels. When you take pictures what are you thinking? And what are you looking for as a result? I never really get what I initially have in mind, but something different that is actually better. Usually I just put the elements together and let it happen, there are so many variables and I let them be themselves and go from there. Your life looks amazing . . . travel . . . models etc. What's the tough part ? Everything is amazing but since I travel so much I've been living in hotels for the past five years, which is exhausting. To get to the point I am now it takes a lot of faith – doing projects with no idea if they will sell or not; waking up every morning wondering "what the hell am I doing?" But if you pull it off it's extremely rewarding. You just did exactly what you wanted and got paid . . . scary but so worth it.

Your pictures are more than just photos – very original, especially the whaleshark series . . . how did that come about? All I care about is that it makes people want to travel, and show that we are the same as all animals. Seeing a picture of just a wild animal is very difficult to relate to for someone that hasn't seen one. But as soon as you introduce a human in the picture you can feel the synergy and it can make people think (about ivory, shark finning etc). We relate to beautiful things, I try to convey the message that way. You spend time in Japan – we in the West don't really know the culture. What's the biggest difference between Japanese and Western culture? I credit Japan for making me who I am – all my aesthetics, the way I think, and a general common sense is all because I went to Japan at an early age. If I can give one piece of advice to anyone going to Japan . . . it will change you for the better in every way. Where is your life and work taking you right now ? Space! I have already done some work with Wildaid, Virgin Unite and Richard Branson, so I'm dying to work with Virgin Galactic. Near future I am doing a fashion shoot with flowing lava by the volcanos in Hawaii. In November I will be doing another night shoot with whalesharks in the Maldives. Underwater at night is a whole different world. You’re a thrillseeker and adrenaline junkie, why? Once you dive with sharks, get charged by a lion or an elephant, skydive etcetera, there is an inner peace and you are alive. Also you realise that it all sounds much more crazy than it actually is. I need it to feel calm and alive. You spend time in both – what do you see as the best of Sweden versus the best of New York? Sweden has the best food and most beautiful people, there is a freshness there you don't get anywhere else. NYC is my home town, it just rocks on every level, so fun, so fast. Madness! You've been called the "new Peter Beard". How do you feel about that? It's such an honor to be even compared to him. I don't even consider myself a photographer yet, I just decide this is what I want to see and feel then I take pictures of it. I met Peter recently and he is so awake, so young in his mind, if that is what this job does then I'm in the right business . . .




desert angels.



Are you active and aware in the marketing of yourself as an artist? Is it difficult to be avant-garde and yet still be commercially viable? I can't sell myself for five cents, I let the businessmen do that. I can market myself in social media very well because I'm always in insane situations and the pics are funny and wild. I’ll just keep on doing what I like, and when the money stops I’ll do what they say . . . You’re doing some philanthropic work with some celebrities – tell us about that ... I went with Richard Branson and Wildaid to India to take pics of the remaining tigers. Also we just took a trip with (Chinese basketballer) Yao Ming and Wildaid to Africa for an anti-poaching campaign and documentary. It was incredible and completely heartbreaking. There was an elephant poached every day for its ivory, and we shot Yao with carcass after carcass – very gloomy and very necessary. Amazing all these Chinese superstars working with us to end the ivory trade. There is not much time left, we can see them go extinct in our lifetime . . . same thing with shark finning. On

hanging out.

average 38 million sharks get finned a year and it can go up to 78 million. It's completely mind boggling. As I said, not much time left and we are all responsible for ending it. Highlight of your career so far . . . Being invited by Richard Branson and Wildaid to swim with whalesharks in Mexico then being able to take it to the next level and find a way to do a fashion shoot with these amazing creatures that went viral on a global scale. Hanging out with a white baby lion in the desert for a day. Torturing my manager with a tazer on a daily basis. Working with Shawn Heinrichs to shoot manta rays at night with an amazing model. What haven't you done that you want to do? Have a house, cook, sleep in a hammock with my dog and girlfriend. These are exotic things for me right now. Oh, and space, space, space! LOL, hear that brother. Hopefully we can get you to Bali asap and get you some rest. To see more of his work, Kristian has a gallery showing at Townhouse in September.


love will keep us together.


incoming never change your spots.


monkey business.




etherial dancers.



The journey so far . . . I’m originally from Holland, I came to Bali officially two years ago to live, but I’ve been in Asia for over 12 years already. I lived in Jakarta for eight years, then to Hong Kong, followed by Vietnam, and finally (back) to Bali . . . with my two children. During your migrations, have you always been an artist, and, if so, what is your background in that realm? Big no to the artist at large during that period . . . I am self-taught, without (formal) art education . . . my passion started when I was a kid, always drawing. I came from a sensible family and so I chose a professional direction in communications, consultancy, and education for adults in companies. After my graduation I worked for two years in Holland, and then moved to Jakarta for a telecommunication project. Being a consultant in Jakarta put me in a financial position to be okay, and I continued to pursue my passion again, which was design. I started doing digital design, and then moved to Hong Kong – I set up a company there that designed children’s products, exporting to Holland. In the meantime my passion for art re-emerged and I started doing paintings for my kids as a hobby. People saw them and the first orders came in. My kids were five and eight years old at the time, and so there I was figuring out what I was going


to do. Big decisions . . . stay in Vietnam – but that seemed more of a loser’s choice – back to Holland, which was like choking . . . and then Bali came up. I tried to read the signs in the sky . . . it was my dream to live in Bali. So you’d been to Bali before? Oh yes, many times, I had the Bali bite and knew people already. And my ex had moved to Jakarta, so a good balance for the kids. When did the serious art focus happen? That started here in Bali. Previously I’d done loads of commission work, but became fed up with that and pushed it back a bit. So my first serious paintings started in Vietnam – a series called The World of Weast, which I finished here in Bali, and that led to my first official exhibition at Ku De Ta. How did that work out? Extremely well, a big breakthrough. It established me. After that, I had an exhibition at Métis, and W Hotel – at the Taksu Gallery, which is also located in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Next to that I did most of the art for Luna2 – beautiful private hotel on

Photo: Heike Huidekoper

Irene hoff mixes media and subject matter into pop art fantasy, writes salvador bali.

“i try to integrate my art into a holistic experience . . .“ 75

PROFILE “i love the fantasy world“ irene hoff.


the beach next to Ku De Ta; styled on nostalgia and futurism. Do you have an agent? Not sure if I need an agent, it’s coming at me (laughs). How would you describe your art? I think it’s a bit mystical; there are a lot of elements in it that you don’t directly see, but you might see it the third or fourth time. You wonder what is real and what isn’t, and it challenges you to pull it into your own existence. Sounds like Salvador Dali . . . You look at it and say, “I don’t think that’s right, is it?” So I try to integrate it into a holistic experience . . . For example the series World of Weast is a blend of West and East. It’s about integrating the best parts of all there is, seen and unseen, turning it into a world that surpasses reality and fiction. Some of my elements are also from Japan, the strength of Japan pasted into a European world. You might think this is New York, but you see a sign of Japan, or a Japanese woman walking through the streets of New York with an umbrella in the rain . . . but that’s a double connotation. Some of my art has cartoon figures in it. I love the fantasy world. If you look at it, you think it’s normal, but it’s just a drawing, not a real person. I try to integrate reality,

fiction, west and east, and get the best elements out of all worlds. The cliché, “if you want to make God laugh, tell him you have plans”, that’s a very Bali thing . . . rubber time . . . Yes, that is applicable for Asia in general. Having lived in this part of the world for such a long time has changed my view on the world, letting go of boundaries of how things supposed to be, which is reflected in my art. Do you sit down at the canvas with a concept in mind or do you just go with the flow? Right now I feel there will be a new series, I just feel it, it’s here. When you say series, do you work around a theme? Yes, sometimes they integrate and connect as well, for me it’s like giving birth to a child. Dealing with graphics, it seems to me that you did study art. There is some kind of influence . . . I think it has to do with finding and following your passion, once you know and feel it, things can never go wrong. If you want to discover what drives you, you should go back to childhood . . . what drove you as a child? For me it was always making drawings, creating. I let that go and started doing something “sensible”, but I believe if you are able to create a balance at some point in life, those passions come back to you. I feel this was something I was always supposed to do. I’ve always been fond of colours and compositions and I’ve always been focused on shifting things around to create a certain balance that feels right. There was a movie, Field of Dreams . . . build it and they will come . . . That’s how it is, just make the paintings, they’ll sell, believe, create, and so far that’s how it’s been for me. What’s your philosophy? Sounds very simple – be yourself. I meditate a lot, that’s my tool to stay close, to be authentic and genuine, and to reach the highest level of creativity.

“the medium is the message“ - marshall muluhan.



navnit anand is the new head of Indonesia’s favourite women’s clothing line, Body & Soul. words: Stephanie Mee Photo: anthony dodds


Since its beginning in Bali in 1996, Body & Soul has exploded in popularity and expanded across the Indonesian archipelago. In your opinion, what is it about the clothing line that appeals so much to the Indonesian market? Our clothing is fun, engaging and feels good. We constantly do a lot of research with our consumers because a lot of shopping behaviours are psychographic. There is a customer who dresses how she wants to feel and there is a customer who goes through her agenda and thinks, “What do I need to look like for what I’m going to do today?” She wants to be appropriately dressed for what she does, and wants to feel good. I think appropriateness is important. Every woman who shops at Body & Soul feels like if they buy something they will look stylish and appropriate. I believe that today the fashion industry is homogenised. Now that products are so ubiquitous we see the same look, the same fabrications and the same designs all over the place. Nothing is all that special anymore. Customers love scarcity, and to stand out in a world of sameness you have to be a contrarian. How has the brand evolved over the years? Value and versatility have become very important. People need an incentive to shop. Value is an important part of our DNA – it’s great design and quality at the right price, not cheap, not expensive, but just right. About 70 to 80 per cent of the assortment is under $45 - $50. We introduced good price points to the business in every category and that strategy is working very well. I think in uncertain economic times, value becomes more important. You have locations across Indonesia in vastly different cities and locations. How does the brand differ in each location? In Bali, the brand is very different than in other places. For example, Jakarta is more structured and people want more smart dresses, fitted items and workwear. In Bali, people want loose fabrics, flowing items, more resort wear. In Makassar, the population is mostly Muslim, so people are more conservative and don’t want to show a lot of skin. So really, I’m buying for many different markets. In that way, we have to become more intimate with the consumer to find the right fashion for each area. How does Body & Soul compare to the competition? Actually, I don’t really think we have much competition in Bali. There are other major brands here, but they don’t specifically cater to the Indonesian market. Typically, women in Asia are smaller and shorter than women in Western countries, so we create specs for the customers here. Many of the other brands do global buying, so the clothing doesn’t really suit the body types here. Also, global buyers put merchandise in their stores that corresponds to the seasons, like winter wear. Who would wear cashmere or a winter jacket here? They don’t seem to have that connectivity with the consumer. We look at what people want, buy locally and create clothes that fit the women here. This is also a price sensitive market, so we try to keep quality high but costs low, so we don’t pass on those high prices to the customers. It’s all about the right merchandise at the right price. Body & Soul consistently puts out unique pieces and patterns that you don't find from many other brands. Where do the designers draw their inspiration from? Most people underestimate the importance of creativity and often overlook the importance of a beautiful product. Creativity drives growth in any business. We have a couple of experienced designers working for our suppliers. In Bali we also had to develop a creative design team that collaborates well these suppliers and

manufacturers. They continuously research around the seasonal trend casts to create the unique and affordable fashion that suits the average Indonesian woman. For this season, great fashion, colour, great value, and versatility is getting women into the stores. We’re in a colourful cycle. In a volatile economic period, people are wearing a lot of colour lately. It makes you feel optimistic and positive. That trend has really helped the otherwise sluggish market this season. Everything we’ve offered in colour – be it colourful tops, coloured denim, colourful dresses, accessories, etc. have done very well. You took over the Body & Soul brand two years ago. What changes have you made since you’ve taken over as CEO? When any company gets a new CEO, there is often a lot of talk about what he or she is going to change. Well, I see my job is to build on this outstanding brand. I did not come here to do sweeping changes, out with the old, in with the new. However, there are some changes I did make to meet the new challenges we face today. My focus has been upgrading the quality standard, building a stronger supply chain, alternative and faster sourcing and making our processes stronger. I strongly believe that processes come first, good results need to be pursued thereafter. At the same time, let me be clear about what is staying the same. Our world will always revolve around the customer – the customer's wish for value, range, service, quality, these remain fixed points in our world. All of us here today know that we must deliver on these things or our businesses will fail to prosper. What would you say are your most important values as CEO? First of all, it’s very important to work with a factory that has highly skilled workers. I would never work with a factory with semi-skilled workers. Quality is most important. I also think it’s extremely important to nurture people who work for the company. If I see someone who needs to improve, I’ll put the effort and resources into helping them improve, and I like to give people incentives to succeed. For example, our store managers are almost like owners, in that if the store does well, they share in that profit. There is also a lot of room for growth in the company. Many sales clerks move up to manager, and so on. When the brand moves forward, the people move forward as well. Finally, giving back is important. I don’t know why so many companies don’t give back. They spend so much money on billboards every year, but why not put that money into educating the staff or their families? The business only works because of the people who work for it. That’s why you’ll never see a Body & Soul billboard in Bali. I would rather spend that money supporting the people who work for us. Where do you see Body & Soul going in the future? Any plans for expansion into other countries or markets? Domestic expansion is definitely in the cards. There are two new flagship stores coming up next month in Jakarta and Surabaya. However, more important presently for us is to revamp the stores that require renovation, close the nonperforming stores and migrate to new locations that offer a good potential for the future. Expanding internationally would be gradual and more on the lines of franchising and collaborating with suitable partners who have faith and confidence in our brand philosophy. South America and South Africa are potential markets, and if we find the right people and location, then we’ll think about that.



Camilla Chevillot has gone from playground to top table, writes Lorna Jane Smith.

ca milla


Sardine has been used as the name of a children's game, where one person hides and each successive person who finds the hidden one packs into the same space until there is only one left out, who becomes the next one to hide. Twenty years ago a little blonde Canadian girl living in the Caribbean learned to play sardine and hid under the dining tables of her father's restaurant. That little girl is now a 25-year-old blonde bombshell, Camilla Chevillot. Camilla no longer hides under the tables of her father's restaurant – instead she now manages them. The restaurant is no longer located in the Caribbean . . . it's now in Bali. The childish irony is that the restaurant is called Sardine and the game sardine has taken on a different format. Camilla has a genetic disposition for working in hospitality. There is a recorded five generations of cooks and restaurateurs in her family. Her French father, Pascal, moved to Bali and opened Sardine four years ago. Her brother is a leading chef in Montreal, and prior to her current role as Sardine's trainee top gun she bummed around the world financing herself by shaking cocktails, performing kitchen duties and flipping grilled stuff. On a spontaneous visit to Bali two years ago Camilla saw Sardine for the first time and was blown away. At the time she was looking for a challenge and her father suggested that Camilla move to Bali to learn what running a boutique restaurant entails. One could toy with the idea that Camilla's transition to restaurateur intern dabbles in the philosophy of keeping it cool with daddy dearest? "In all honesty I never had any desire to live in Bali but when I saw Sardine, its physical presence alone won me over," she says. That's easily understood. Sardine's entrance is understated. When you finally find it and park on the edge of the abyss, a.k.a. a busy Jalan Petitenget, expectations are not high. Once entering, you can't help but gasp at the glory of this Tardis of visual enchantment. Acres of mythical rice fields confront you. Umbrellas caress the breeze. Ducks and geese grace the grounds

with their playful disposition. The incredibly good-looking Balinese staff weave around the tables like butterflies mocking lotuses. Everything is in synch with Balinese culinary perfection. Sardine specialises in seafood. "The cuisine is slightly Asian, slightly Mediterranean, slightly Balinese but playfully interpreted and enhanced with a modern touch," Camilla says. She does attempt to gently push her ideas into Sardine's seafood repertoire. "I went to Myanmar and ate a banana blossom salad," she says. It tasted as great as it sounded and Camilla felt this dish would be well placed in Sardine's cuisine del solait. "I do try to have my opinion but I don't think they are listening to me yet," she says after the banana blossom salad was vetoed . . . "I guess I just have to learn to speak louder." The people who are listening to her are the customers. Six days a week, 11 hours a day, this young woman forsakes her right to be young and crazy for her professional passion. "I want to focus on my work. The rest of life happens when it happens." Camilla is adamant that besides the food, a consistent presence is the key to a successful restaurant. She is an important identity at Sardine as she plays hostess, and orchestrates a great culinary experience for the restaurant’s patrons. "I live in the moment and it's always a surprise what you can do and where you can end up." So, was Sardine so-called because of a child's game that Camilla once played; was it because that's the dish of the day; or is it a clan’s metaphoric association to marine creatures' lifestyles? Camilla says Sardine was named as such because it is simply a universal word. The word and the meaning is the same in English, French or Indonesian. "It's just a word, but an important one to me."

". . . I never had a desire to live in bali but when i saw Sardine . . ." pic by lucky 8.


PROFILE The Yak interviews Georgina Yee-ling Green Barnett, the lifeaholic head of international marketing at the all-girl surfwear brand Surfer Girl. By Michael Pohorly.

Isabelle BaumannFledermaus Photography


Yee-Ling together with Green Barnett, what’s the connection? I was born in Hong Kong and adopted by British parents when I was seven-months-old. My mom is Catholic and my dad is Jewish. They decided to raise me with influences from both religions on this predominantly Hindu island. As politically incorrect as it may sound, I joke that I can pray in more languages than I can actually speak! I’m an international child of the universe, but my heart will always be in Bali. How long has your heart, and the rest of you, been in Bali? I moved to Bali with my family when I was 10. I then spent two years of high school in England and then two years at Sydney University. Later I returned to Bali to work full time. All in all, it’s been over 15 years of Bali island living. I’ll be forever indebted to this island and all the wonderful people that have shaped me into the person I am today. Growing up here, that means you surf? Of course! I started surfing as a kid and will never forget the magical moments before and after school when I’d head out for either a sunrise or sunset session. My earliest surfing memories were mornings at Padang Galak and afternoons in Kuta or Double Six and Padma in Seminyak, if I could find a ride there after school. Who’s been your life’s biggest inspiration? Not to be totally clichéd but the biggest inspiration in my life has got to be my parents. They worked hard and selflessly so that they could give my brothers, sister, and me the best start to life that any kid could wish for. My parents pushed me to reach my full potential by always supporting me, even when they don’t agree! For someone who doesn’t know you at all, how would you describe yourself to them? My friends have said I’m ‘a very random and super excitable ball of energy’. I’m a manic All Blacks rugby supporter, I’m dog mad, and I find inner peace in Mother Nature. I love my job and have always been super driven. Sometimes I’m misinterpreted as a workaholic but I feel that the term lifeaholic is more accurate. I’d be nowhere without my family and friends, and very unhappy without my dogs, rugby, dance and music – all of which make my heart and soul smile. What else is part of being a lifeaholic? One of the trickiest parts of working a job that you are passionate about is making sure to strike the right balance between work and life. The best way to describe my routine is “dream it – do it” and “expect the unexpected”. To unwind I love nothing more than to go to the beach with the pups, catching up with my friends or hanging out with my better half. And my ultimate guilty pleasure is to curl up with the pups and my boy for a night in with some bad TV shows. Where is your favorite place to surf in Bali? There are too many breaks to mention. I spent my childhood in Bali

surfing some of the best waves in the world, and some of the most famous breaks were my home breaks well before they were famous. A close second would be Lembongan. It’s where I surfed my first proper reef breaks. I’ll never forget the clear water and seeing the ocean living and moving beneath me. How is Surfer Girl helping to keep that clear water clean? We have ”Share to Care” online programmes to create awareness, participation and support for environmental and green events and regular beach clean ups. All of our retail stores use biodegradable plastic, eco–friendly cleaning materials, waste water/sewerage water treatment and rainwater collection. Beyond a surf shop, how does Surfer Girl serve as an inspiration to young girls, would you say? It started in ’98 when Surfer Girl launched the first all-girls surf store in downtown Kuta. I was one of the kids that used to annoy my mum to take me there. It makes me proud and happy to be part of Surfer Girl because we don’t just sell products, but we share a vision to make a positive difference through everything we do, and our mission is ‘To be the Happiest Girls Brand in the World’. How are you helping to support girls in surfing, a previously male dominated sport? In 2008, we brought the first ever international ISC sanctioned women’s surf contest to South East Asia, the Surfer Girl Big Splash. We also run programmes to support young Indonesian girls starting out in the surf, like the Surfer Girl Big Days Out with Putri Ombak and the Odyssey Surf School. And with our Team Rider programme, we help bridge them from when they first paddle out to when they are ready to pursue a professional surfing career. Now we currently sponsor six awesome young girls that are already making their mark on the Indonesian surfing scene. Your brand mascot is the cartoon character, ‘Summer the Surfer Girl’. If you were a fictional character, who would you be? I would love to be an Ewok from Star Wars with special powers to fly – or own an Ewok hang glider. Or maybe the Sandman from Rise of the Guardians. Summer the Surfer Girl has gained an immense following with nearly three million fans online… Yes, it started years ago when the sticker was seen everywhere on cars, bikes and helmets throughout Indonesia. Then we brought it to social media, and now Summer the Surfer Girl’s Facebook fan page has more than 2.8 million fans. It’s become our main platform to share information about the environment, other important causes, fun tips and contests. Follow Summer on Twitter: @summerSurferGrl



Who is this guy, making a showing without anyone knowing? Sixteen years behind the scenes with the Hu'u bali, the man who created the Jalan Petitinget explosion. salvador bali reports.

The silence is broken . . . Sean Lee, age 40, I have one brother and am married with two children. Born in Singapore and have been in Bali for 12 years. What was your educational background? Magna Cum Laude College, Washington D.C., U.S.A., I went there because I wasn’t exactly your textbook kid. I was the kid who was more interested in staring at the sky. Be that as it may, I got it together and majored in international finance. That leads me to family background . . . My mother and my father are Singaporean; it’s a professional family with 10 doctors, a smattering of bankers and veterinarian’s as well. Dad comes from a professional background and my mother comes from a business background. So you were the rebel without a clause. I spent the last 10 years finding a clause; now I think I’ve found it. When you came to Bali, was that an escape route? I was a banker down in Raffles Place in Singapore – fund management – wasn’t quite interested in that, and when a job opportunity came up in Jakarta to set up something different I decided to take it. So the opportunity came up and I took on a job setting up a liquor company to distribute and import, that’s how I ended up in Indonesia. During that time I invested in the Hu'u Bali in Singapore. That was in 1998, I was 26, and my alumni wanted a bar we were used to. I was making good money as an investment banker, and that was the first pre-club bar in Asia. So we actually created the bar scene as we know it today. That’s how the Lychee Martini came about. We kind of hoodwinked the Singaporean government to rent us a place in the museum saying that we would set up a jazz bar. So you being the humble sponge here created history? So it would appear (laughs). What do you think about the boom on Jalan Petitinget since the Hu'u Bali first opened?


I think that all cities that are doing good, people see progress, success attracts success. I think it’s great, the market’s going to expand, it’s getting wider, everyone keeps it elegant, and that’s the way to go. So you’re happy with the situation? I’ve always been half mad anyway. We tend to do our own thing and hopefully we get it right. Here you are now, this is your first interview, and you never spoke to anyone before . . . why now? Well, because you’re my friend. I think it’s always good to be low profile; I tend to be a little bit Asian in that sense, we like to be, let’s say, the proof is in the pudding. I’m more concerned about making my pudding good. Sometimes when you’re busy, grinding and chipping away, you don’t have time to give interviews. At the beginning business at the Hu'u Bali was very slow . . . That was a time when I was doing a lot of other things and then about five years ago I decided to concentrate on that and make it work. In this business you have to put in your passion, sweat and your gut to get it going. I’m away from home half the time, so, of course it’s tough. Your family is in Singapore, so you’re in and out constantly? Absolutely, so it’s not easy operating in club land, there’s got to be a lot of trust. Have you got it down now to a system? Yeah I do, I mean there’s a certain degree of delegation, but in terms of strategy, concepts and vision, one still has to be there. On the concept of visions, you started off wanting a jazz concept, now it’s mainstream DJs, do you have plans to take that further? At the end of the day there’s one thing I learned as an investment banker or as a fund manager, it’s not what I think, it’s really what the market thinks. We try to give the market what they want, of course aligning our vision. With that and a little dose of creativity, a little bit of thinking out of the box.

A lot of people aren’t aware that the Hu'u Bali is not just a DJ rockin’ bar, but fine dining downstairs as well? It was Hu'u Bali, but that has changed to Baba’s, what’s that all about? Baba’s is a creole concept about the mixed heritage of the overseas Chinese or Indian or Portuguese who made their home in Asia over the past hundred or two hundred years. The cuisine that we bring in is of mixed heritage. You’re open now for breakfast, lunch and dinner? Yes, because it’s going to be part of the food at Hu'u Bali Villas Seminyak which is now in process adjoining the Hu'u Bali, so it’s a main food element. Villas all around the club, what kind of an establishment is that? I see Bali as the one true holiday island in Asia. A lot of like-minded people came here and called it home. I draw parallel’s with all the holiday islands in Europe, like Mykonos, Ibiza and Santorini. I look at Bali as the lead in Asia and for people who party pretty hard. What are the villas going to consist of ? I am like any visionary, building to what I know best and I think the villas encompass the vibe and the feel of everything that I want in a villa. Basically it’s what I think we should all live in Bali . . . I think Bali is good for a few more projects, but we’ll see, I don’t want to be accused of being adding to the overcrowding. I think while being motivated we should face ourselves. Things are moving pretty fast here. The vision for Bali, when we moved here, was to build a kick-ass bar, kick-ass martinis, and be able to say hi to a cow, and that’s what we did – built an open-air style building surrounded in the paddies, tried to be far away from people. What’s your philosophy? If you try to do something, you gotta love it.

the Hu'u's sean lee.


the owner of Petitenget restaurant makes us laugh at the obscurities of life, writes lorna jane smith. Photo: lucky 8.

He is a human Prozac whose presence is effectual yet subtle. Sean, a 40-something-year-old Aussie and selfconfessed wallflower, had no hospitality experience a decade ago when he escaped the restraints of the urban Melbourne rat race. Destination Bali, goal professional redemption . . . Regardless of his lack of experience, Sean somehow blundered his way through the culinary hierarchy and, to date, has established two venues in Bali that have both provided their patrons with great hospitality, community relevance, and good food and bevies. The first, The Corner Store, tragically burnt down a year ago but will go down in Seminyak folklore as the once popular provider of many morning-after coffees. Petitenget, the second venture, is a simple colonial bistro loitering among the coconut palms, bordering blessed grounds and scented with sea spray, and has become Sean's testament to the possibilities of a road less travelled. Petitenget has established itself to the diaspora community of Bali in similar fashion to what the 1980s bar and sitcom, Cheers, was to Boston. It's a place where everyone knows your name, or at the least, a great place to hang on a tropical Friday night and meet everyone. If you bump into a character who has a Woody Harrelson style of barmanship, a Basil Fawlty disposition, yet oozing with A-Team Hannibal sensibilities, that's Sean. How did Sean become a restaurateur? I'm not. I'm a bistroteur. When did the idea of Petitenget, the bistro, come to fruition? The idea came with the site. This site was here for a long time and had previously been an old Bali eatery, doing nothing. I thought its position was incredible – a Balinese temple to the front, footsteps from the ocean . . . perfect. I had been in Oberoi with The Corner Store

for a long time and wanted to eventually progress by making something not so pedestrian, and definitely not too upmarket. I also wanted night-time trade, a local crowd, to serve great food, and of course to have THE bar. What's the Petitenget visual mood? We were lucky enough to be able keep the original premises' footprint, and just designed the whole building around that. Décor-wise I wanted an Asian, colonial, expat, relaxed kind of vibe going on. Do you tend to name your businesses by their position? Guess so. I like stating the obvious. The locals know where we are and they get it, and the locals and the expats are my core business. As for the tourists, I have a theory, they are only here for 10 days or so, you don't want to make it difficult, you want to make it clearly understood where you are. Are you an extrovert? No. I like to be present, but watch from the side . . . an observer. Favourite colour? Blue. There is no blue in the Petitenget decor? Yeah, that's ok. Are you a visionary? I always ask myself what would I like? If I got off the plane in Bali, where would I like to go, where would I like to hang out? Well if I came past Petitenget, I would love it here and this is where I would spend some time. Abode of choice a castle or commune? Probably just a shack, out the back of the commune, halfway up the hill towards the castle. Holiday destination of choice? I'm pretty happy where I am. I'm living a permanent holiday. The years before I came to Bali I was living in Melbourne knee deep in the rag trade and losing interest fast. I had to have an exit strategy. That exit had to be somewhere tropical, and back then I was thinking

Sri Lanka or Argentina. In fact Bali was never on the map, but life and good shit happens and here I am, on a working holiday. Anything up your sleeve? Yes actually. A great big beach bar, suitable for families, surfers, dogs, kids, surfboards, parties, concerts, life. Currently a work in progress. Where is it? At Old Man surf break Batu Bolong. This place will be a story about me. What's it called? Old Man. Where's Sean in 20 years? Running a small old timer’s beach shack on a little island near Flores. What’s the power of Bali? The everyday antics of everyone's life in Bali. It's the diverse nature of the diaspora that come to Bali. That's why I'm here, that's why we are all here, we are all seduced by Bali. Books? What do you like to read? I love a tragedy. I work from a pessimist's point of view. I know nothing's ever going to be perfect and nothing's ever going to work the way you want it to. That's okay. Are you a control freak? No . . . well you try to control as much as you can, but you got to understand stuff is just going to happen. A tree fell down the other day next to the eating area. It could have killed a few people . . . it didn't, and we are now putting up a new tree. One word that describes Petitenget? Comfortable. I really want people to feel comfortable when they're here. Which US President do you identify with? Bill Clinton. Why? He brought people together.

Bistroteur Sean Cosgrove.



travel all for you in morocco.


“Nothing comes close to the golden coast . . .” words: Joe Yogerst. images: D.hump. The words of Katy Perry catch my ear as I wander through the deepest, darkest part of the kasbah, blending with the metallic clang of a copper-worker’s hammer and the rumble of a wooden donkey cart. The music seems totally incongruous, yet oddly appropriate. Because this western edge of Africa surely is a golden coast – one of those rare Saharan landfalls that seems to have passed into the 21st century without any major upheavals. By just about any measure Morocco is one of Africa’s runaway success stories. Exports are booming and foreign investment flowing in. Average income is rising and poverty rates falling. The Arab Spring blew through with barely a ripple – largely because social reforms have been in the works since the late 1990s. Meanwhile, the Economist recently ranked Morocco as having the best quality of life in all of Africa. Yet Morocco has been able to achieve all of this without rejecting traditional Islamic or African values, and without diluting the exotic ambience that has long compelled writers, artists, and other soul-searchers to find themselves while riding on the Marrakech Express.

This African-style yin and yang is what lured me to Morocco, and what ultimately charmed me the most. The muezzin calling the faithful to prayer can still be heard five times each day in every village and neighborhood. Yet this is one of the few Islamic nations where many of the women go unveiled and flaunt the latest Parisian fashions. Nearly every city boasts a walled, maze-like kasbah. Yet around the periphery of the old towns are skyscrapers, airconditioned malls and boulevards bustling with the latest European cars. Flying in from London, my first stop was Casablanca on the Atlantic coast. The very name summons notions of heroic deeds, star-crossed love, and unforgettable movie lines. The iconic film was shot more than 70 years ago, but the legend lingers. And it’s not too much of a stretch to claim that Humphrey Bogart has done more for Casablanca tourism than any advertising campaign. Groucho Marx famously quipped that he had no idea until the film came out that “the city of Casablanca belonged exclusively to Warner Brothers”. Even all these years later, the Hollywood influence remains so strong




rock the kasbah . . .







that it tends to obscure the line between fact and fiction. I met a young British couple who arrived in “Casa” expecting to dine at Rick’s Café and drink at the Blue Parrot. I didn’t have the heart to tell them that both establishments were conjured in the mind of a Hollywood scribe. Once upon a time, Casablanca probably did harbour that sort of “joint”. But in the aftermath of the Second World War, it grew into a huge, sprawling metropolis with more than six million people – Africa’s second largest urban area after Cairo. Driving its population growth is a booming economy that revolves around a bustling port and a central business district flush with banks and corporate headquarters. The ghost of Bogart might be elusive, but I discovered that much of the architecture from that period remains – a blend of Art Deco and neo-Moorish style called Hispano-Mauresque that was popular through much of the 20th century. Two of the more notable structures are religious in nature . . . The massive, whitewashed Cathédrale Sacré-Coeur was the hub of Roman Catholic life in the city until it was secularised in the 1950s after Moroccan independence. Nowadays it functions as a generic cultural center – and if you are brave enough to climb the rickety stairs to the roof – a great place to look out over the rest of Casablanca. Half a century younger than the cathedral – yet looking much older because of its traditional design – is the massive Hassan II Mosque. As a non-Muslim, the only way for me to explore the interior was latching onto a guided tour. But it was worth the wait, because the mosque is astounding in both size (the world’s third largest place of Muslim worship) and the beauty of its craftsmanship. Yet Casablanca paled in comparison to the architectural wonderland that I would discover several days later in Marrakech, an ancient caravan city that still belongs in large part to the wildness of the Sahara. The place was a motley collection of mud huts until the 11th century when the Almoravid tribe moved across the Atlas Mountains and decided to make their capital here. Within 40 years of its founding, they had built Marrakech into a fabulous city of gardens and palaces guarded by stout walls. They introduced the famous


kettara irrigation system that continues to water the date groves of Marrakech, and pioneered a distinctive Moorish architectural style that would eventually spread throughout northwest Africa and across the Strait of Gibraltar to Spain. Like just about everyone else who comes to Marrakesh, it wasn’t long before I found myself drawn to the Djemaa el Fna, a large public square in the heart of the old quarter that functions as both an open-air market and a gathering place for street entertainers of all ilks and manner. Charmers with deadly snakes draped over their shoulders; fortune tellers who teased me with promises of an auspicious future; roaming drummers and itinerant hookah-pipe hawkers; henna tattoo artists perched on tiny wooden stools and men in bright red robes selling drinking water in shiny brass cups. An assault on all my senses that eventually morphed into sensory overload. Escape was close at hand – an entrance to the Medina – a warren of narrow streets and alleys first constructed a thousand years ago and so perfectly preserved that UNESCO declared the old quarter a world heritage site. Wedged between the ancient palaces and gardens are souks (markets), each with its own specialty – carpets, copperware, silver, leather, ceramics, textiles and ironwork. And each of these old precincts has its own special atmosphere. The most colourful (in a literal sense) is the Souk aux Teinturiers, where local dyers hang their chromatic wares out to dry on long wooden poles extended across the alleys. I followed my nose to sumptuous aromas of the food market behind the Quessabine Mosque and got swept into a current of local women hunting for bargains in the Souk Smarine clothing market. Through a combination of asking directions and my own dead reckoning I found the fabulous Palais de la Bahia, a Moorish-style residence built in the 19th century as a showcase for intricate arabesque plasterwork set around tranquil gardens. Nearby was the smaller Dar Si Said, a former palace that now houses the Museum of Moroccan Arts and its array of carpets, clothing, weapons and musical instruments from around the country. The massive Palais el Badi is the most famous of the old royal abodes, but most of it now lies in ruins. Sultan

the boatman of yore.



surfing bluff.


Ahmed al-Mansur mandated the construction of Badi in the 16th century as the finest residence in Morocco, importing Carrera marble from Italy and employing skilled artisans from all over North Africa. Less than a century later, another sultan had the palace dismantled and the exquisite building materials shipped to northern Morocco where they were used to construct his own palace in Meknes. A few nights later I was back at Badi for a performance of the National Folklore Festival, the ruins artistically floodlit as warriors on horseback staged mock charges and music and dance troupes from every province took the stage. If Marrakech is the best of old Morocco, then Agadir on the southwest coast is perhaps the best of the new. Agadir was a modest, mild-mannered village until February of 1960 when an earthquake destroyed the town in a matter of minutes. More than 15,000 residents perished and those who survived were left with only rubble. Rather than abandon their ancestral home, the survivors rebuilt their town on the sandy seaside flats to the south of the ruined town. Only this time, thanks to government funds and foreign aid, they were able to build their homes, schools, mosques and shops to earthquakesafe standards. In the process, they also transformed Agadir from a drowsy fishing village into a thriving tourist destination with some of Morocco’s best beach hotels. From the balcony of my high-rise hotel room, I looked out over a five-mile curve of pearly-white sand and sapphire Atlantic – a gem of a beach spangled in colored umbrellas and lobster-red European bodies. The only thing that perches directly on the beach are low-slung villas and holiday flats, plus a shady eucalyptus grove – giving the illusion that Agadir is a much smaller resort than is really the case. Walking the oceanfront promenade on that first afternoon, I came across all of the usual seaside distractions – kite surfing and paragliding, surf schools and open-air bars that served mojitos and margaritas. Yet once again I found myself drawn to the old. At the northern end of the beach, on a bluff above the sea, were the ruins of the Agadir Kasbah, destroyed by the quake. I figured I would be the only one up there. But there was a Moroccan fellow with a camel. Nicely saddled, of course. Ready for a tourist such as myself to ride for a modest fee. Normally I wouldn’t indulge. But it seemed such a classic indulgence. When in Rome and all that . . . if I was ever going to ride a camel, then this was the place. Amid an ancient kasbah overlooking the sea, and Morocco’s version of the golden coast.


omnibus + There’s a spy in the sky, there’s a noise on the wire, there’s a tap on the line for every paranoid desire + + + there’s always someone looking at you + + + Boomtown Rats andrew e. hall puts the spyglass on some current contradictions.

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + What does the notion of privacy mean these days? Do you sometimes feel the eyes – those creepy unknown eyes – raising the hairs on the back of your neck? The other day I had an experience whereby I had an appointment with someone in the town I live in, to which he turned up around 40 minutes early. I received (a rather aggravated) phone call bemoaning the fact that my car (which is one of those ubiquitous smaller silver things that are now myriad, and totally forgettable) had been spotted at the place I happened to be enjoying a martini and having a yarn with some friends. How, I thought, in a town with numerous, non-descript vehicles such as mine, could he have known my car was parked at the establishment I was enjoying a little libation and a bit of a chat . . . after dark? Is he a small-time spymaster? Call me paranoid, but it set me to thinking . . . After a goodly number of years living on this island I have often been reminded that local authorities (particularly the ones wearing civvies and overly shined shoes) know a whole lot more about the “private” lives of expats than we would ever like to think. I’m sure the same goes for the local population – which begs the question why these types have so much difficulty in actually catching those who have committed criminal acts. Not as lucrative as blatant harassment?

minority report . . .




This information, for the most part, is collected by covert observation – and information sharing – known by those involved in such activities as human intelligence, or “humint”.

systems of massive, pervasive surveillance. While the U.S. Constitution marks these programs as illegal, my government argues that secret court rulings, which the world is not permitted to see, somehow legitimise an illegal affair . . .

So behave . . .

I believe in the principle declared at Nuremberg in 1945: Individuals have international duties which transcend the national obligations of obedience. Therefore individual citizens have the duty to violate domestic laws to prevent crimes against peace and humanity from occurring.”

There is, however, a much, much wider prevalence of intelligence gathering methodologies and modalities abroad in the world these days, which has raised questions about how much access the snoopers should have to the lives of ordinary, law-abiding citizens. Since the dark days of 9/11 and the Bali bombings the need to go beyond old fashioned human intelligence in attempting to militate further acts of cowardly violence and killing has become paramount. Those al Qaeda boys and their affiliates just aren’t a bunch of blabbermouths – humint suffers from the Law of Diminishing Returns. Extensive networks of electronic surveillance have been developed and deployed – none more so than in America and Britain with the collaborative activities of the National Security Agency (NSA) and Government Communication Headquarters (GCHQ). And in recent times we have been made aware of how extensive these intelligence networks are with the revelations of former NSA contractor, Edward Snowden, and the reams of documents released to Wikileaks by U.S. Army intelligence officer, Bradley Manning . . . both of whom are in deep shit with the U.S. government. Bradley Manning has been sentenced to 35 years gaol after being found guilty of espionage in a U.S. military Courts Martial. Snowden has been granted temporary asylum in Russia, which has got right up the nose of Barack Obama and his government – not to mention Snowden’s former employers, the NSA and CIA. In January this year Snowden contacted Laura Poitras, a board member of the Freedom of the Press Foundation, with information on the extent of domestic spying operations carried out by the NSA and GCHQ. His revelations about the existence, and functions of, amongst others, the PRISM surveillance program, NSA call database, and (the brilliantly named) Boundless Informant, and GCHQ’s black-ops program, Tempora, were published in London’s The Guardian newspaper in late May and June. In July 2013, Guardian journalist, Glenn Greenwald, stated that Snowden had additional sensitive information about the NSA that he has chosen not to make public, including “very sensitive, detailed blueprints of how the NSA does what they do”. The surveillance programs crunch vast amounts of data from all forms of people’s electronic communications and have the capacity to simultaneously trawl vast populations. Snowden explained his actions thus: “I don't want to live in a society that does these sort (sic) of things . . . I do not want to live in a world where everything I do and say is recorded . . . My sole motive is to inform the public as to that which is done in their name and that which is done against them.” And in a meeting with human rights organisations in July he said: “The fourth and fifth Amendments to the Constitution of my country, Article 12 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, and numerous statutes and treaties forbid such


It’s a difficult moral and ethical (and legal) balancing act. Governments will argue that such intrusive practices are necessary to keep their populations safe from the kind of harm with which we are all so familiar. The Bali bombers were tracked down largely by technologies developed by the Australian intelligence services that monitor mobile phone traffic. And I doubt there would be one person – outside terrorist organisations – who would regret that such surveillance resulted in those who committed these horrendous crimes being brought to justice. Spying on one another has been around since times of yore and has been popularised, and glamorised, in popular culture ever since such a concept existed. Who hasn’t seen a James Bond film, or read a book by John le Carre? Espionage is represented as somehow romantic. We thrill to the thrill of the chase; the savvy cunning of “the good guys” in their never-ending battle against “the bad guys”. The cut-outs, the drops, the impersonation and evasion, the improvisation. But in light of revelations by Edward Snowden and Bradley Manning et al, has the line between the “good” and “bad” guys been blurred? Has the deployment of domestic spying programmes in democratic countries painted us all as potentially suspect and worthy of scrutiny – and, if so, what are the consequences on our national psyches? Just because you’re paranoid doesn’t mean they’re not out to get you. Does it feed (or exonerate) the causes of the acolytes of Armageddon and conspiracy theorists? When Barack Obama was elected the first time as president of the U.S., I, for one, rejoiced. After eight years of George W. Bush casting his ugly shadow on the world stage, I believed in Barack’s message of “hope” and “change”. But fast forward to the present, I’m not entirely sure I like him quite as much – although, compared to the Republicans, he’s streets ahead on social justice issues . . . except, perhaps when it comes to his support of domestic spying. And his desire to return Edward Snowden to the U.S. for trial. In a recent Guardian article titled “Obama's abuse of the Espionage Act is modernday McCarthyism”, John Kiriakou (who was indicted under the same act, and later exonerated) writes: “Shame on this president for persecuting whistleblowers with a legal relic, while administration officials leak with impunity . . . The conviction of Bradley Manning under the 1917 Espionage Act, and the US Justice Department's decision to file espionage charges against NSA whistleblower Edward Snowden under the same act, are yet further examples of the Obama administration’s policy of using an iron fist against human rights and civil liberties activists.” Whatever your take on the rights or wrongs of domestic surveillance programmes in democratic countries (and I think we can safely assume


big brother.


omnibus they know who you are.


they all have them to a greater or lesser degree), we can, perhaps, agree that insidious agencies like the KGB and Stasi in the former Soviet Union were central to the movement that eventually brought about the Union’s demise.

In a city where there are more CCTV cameras than rats in the drains, even the City of London Corporation thought that Renew’s smart-bin programme was a bit beyond the pale, and told Renew to pull the plug on the enterprise.

A salutary lesson for western democracies (and governments) that might have been forgotten in the furor surrounding further acts of terrorism.

Go figure . . .

But while human rights and press freedom activists rail against domestic spying by democratically elected governments, are they, indeed we, forgetting something? Back at the bar mentioned earlier in this piece I am under constant CCTV surveillance while I sip my martini and shoot the shit. I must admit I resent it. Some faceless person is (potentially) watching my every move. In cities and towns throughout the world CCTV has become ubiquitous . . . for the same reasons that are touted about more sophisticated surveillance operations.

Many of us store loads of personal information in The Cloud, and at the same time resent in the strongest possible terms that our communication behaviours are stored on the super computers of the NSA, GCHQ, ASIS and ASIO and the host of national intelligence acronyms that exist in the world’s countries. Some think nothing of using their personal technologies to snoop on their compatriots – see those who think it’s cool to snap up-skirt shots of the women they’re sharing a table with; or the male Australian Defence Force Academy cadets who set up a covert CCTV to capture sex acts with their female counterparts.

“If you aren’t doing anything wrong, you have nothing to fear . . .”

What would they think about the whistleblowing of Edward Snowden? Not much I suspect given that they were caught out by a whistleblower.

By and large law-abiding citizens throughout the world have come to accept that public snooping has been useful in catching people who have committed crimes . . . but, for some, the existence of such networks paints us all as potential criminals. And, again, I ask what the effect of this has on the social psyche – are we all being roped in to acting as de facto intelligence agents? Should we turn to George Orwell for tips about how such social engineering pans out in the end?

In some ironic way many people in the modern age are, in effect, spying on themselves (and allowing themselves to be spied upon) with things like Facebook and Twitter and Instagram. And in relation to social psychology I would say that narcissism is definitely on the rise . . . in direct proportion to a willingly diminishing sense of privacy and propriety.

Anyone who has surfed the Net is also being spied upon by her or his ISP. How else do those infernal pop-up ads pop up to remind you about the availability of goods and services related to whatever you’re looking at? The Googles and Yahoos of this world have deployed a clever enculturation to make us trust that they will not misuse the information they are constantly cadging from our computers. Sure, this information capture is regulated to an extent, but these companies have been found to be complicit in some fairly nefarious invasions of privacy . . . and helping to deny access at the behest of some of the more repressive regimes. But, like a bunch of lemmings, we go along with it because in the social cost-benefit analysis, we have convinced ourselves that the benefits of Internet access outweigh the costs. I am one such lemming. In our participation we willingly give up a level of privacy to corporations that are, in the main, accountable only to themselves and their shareholders. Here’s an interesting “I Spy” caper that I just discovered . . . English advertising company, Renew, installed some high-tech rubbish bins equipped with technology that can track people’s smartphones in strategic locations in London. Why? You ask. Based on the concept of “cookies” that track one’s traversing of internet sites, Renew CEO Kaveh Memari said, “ . . . we will cookie the street”. That is, turn people into cookies by capturing their smartphone serial numbers and analysing the phones’ signal strength. The rationale for the exercise is if the snooper program at Renew sees that a person spends his or her lunchtime at a certain food outlet, for instance, the rubbish bin – which is equipped with an electronic advertising screen – will detect that person as s/he approaches and will flash up an advertisement for the eatery to remind the person where to go for lunch. Presumably for a fee paid to Renew by the restaurant owner.

A close friend of mine found himself in court not so long ago – being accused of all sorts of unpleasant things. An important piece of evidence that unraveled his accuser’s case was the presentation to the court of the accuser’s Facebook activities . . . Another salutary lesson. In short, it might be suggested that old-fashioned notions of “privacy” have been willingly and unwillingly given up in this day and age – despite the existence of legal and constitutional protections that, mostly, were constructed in times, not so long ago, before the explosion of intrusive technologies. In democratic countries governments should come clean with the people and tell them exactly what they’re up to (but not necessarily how) and let the enfranchised population return a verdict about whether they like it or not at the polls. In making this normative statement I realise that such a thing will never happen because the spying industry is just that – operating in concert with the government of the day, regardless of which political brand the government might represent, and regardless of the rhetoric that governments and presidents spout about individual rights. Totalitarian regimes will always gather intelligence on their people to keep them in their perceived place. At the end of the day, information is power. In that sense the Edward Snowdens, Bradley Mannings, and Julian Assanges of this world should be thanked. Afterword: President Barack Obama has announced that a review of the legality, transparency, and oversight of domestic spying programmes will take place. The president said in a White House press conference on August 9th that he ordered the review before Edward Snowden (whom he referred to as “not a patriot”) passed his information to The Guardian newspaper (which began in February) . . . So why didn’t he tell anyone at the time?



bali is home to some cool creators of the world's wearable wonders, writes Stephanie Mee.

If you consider the lengthy history of jewellery craftsmanship on Bali, it should come as no surprise that independent designers and world-renowned jewellers flock here to fuse traditional motifs and techniques with modern designs, making Bali a centre of production for some of the most exquisite and unique jewellery in the world. As far back as the 12th century, Hindus from the Majapahit kingdom were making the exodus from Java to Bali, bringing with them their strong aesthetic sense and finely honed jewellery making skills gleaned from centuries of contact with Indian and Asian traders. The skilled artisans produced gold bracelets, earrings, armbands, ankle bands, crowns, belts and hair combs for royalty and civilians alike. The design motifs were taken from nature and mythology and the craftsmen used a combination of carving, filigree and granulation to produce elegant pieces steeped in symbolism and dripping with gemstones. Over the past century there has been somewhat of a renaissance in jewellery design on the island, with unique pieces being sought after by foreign markets, and contemporary designers experimenting with a wide range of materials, including volcanic stone, coral, seashells and even wood. Today, innovative artisans from Bali and abroad continue to impress with their creative designs and high quality pieces. First & De Luxurious doesn’t begin to describe the pieces created by jewellers First & De. Each piece is handmade by skilled craftsmen using unique precious stones from around the world and only the finest gold and silver. The results are necklaces, bracelets and rings that are classic and timeless, yet one of a kind. Take for example the bold Yellow Sapphires necklace, which two top craftsmen produced over a period of five months, hand working each stone separately and placing it in an individual setting to create a glittering collar. The Emeralds River necklace is subtle yet striking with Zambian emeralds ranging between 66k and 88k, strung on a delicate 18k gold chain, and the


Tooled up at tulola.


feature First & De.


chunky Maharaja ring catches the light with a profusion of glittering amethysts, diamonds and tanzanite. French designer, Laurent Decaix, arrived in Bali 14 years ago and fell in love with the natural beauty of the island, as well as Bali’s ideal location close to so many Southeast Asian regions where he could search for unique and rare precious stones. With a keen eye for the unusual, he sources out stones that inspire him to create, and produces bespoke pieces based on his client’s desires. He says, “ Women dream and I create it. Basically, I just create amazing pieces for amazing people. That’s just my style.” With successful boutiques in Paris, Hong Kong and Bali and another shop in Jakarta in the works, Laurent clearly has no trouble finding amazing people who encourage him to create his exquisite designs. First & De is located on jalan petitenget. Tel: 0361 4735 917 Nagicia Korean-American Tricia Naga had always been intrigued about Bali, so when her experience studying fine jewellery in Paris and New York landed her an interview with John Hardy, she jumped at the chance to come to the Bali to run his design and sample-making department. Over the years, she worked hard, learned more-about traditional Balinese techniques and travelled across Southeast Asia seeking new inspiration. She tried her hand at making jewellery in Kathmandu and Jaipur, but something about Bali kept drawing her back. In 2000 she founded Nagicia in Bali, and the company has been taking the jewellery world by storm ever since. Tricia draws her inspiration from nature and the energy of gemstones and symbols. She uses an eclectic mix of materials in her pieces, including carvings, plong work, resin, gemstones and coloured metals all set professionally in exquisite settings. She says, “My customers are fashion aware yet down to earth. They like to show off the bling but are consciously choosing to wear a piece of jewellery with good energy and meaning behind each piece.” When it comes to what makes her jewellery stand out from the rest, she says, “The stories behind each collection are the extra bonus that brings it to the next level. I try to teach or bring awareness to my fans and collectors.” Tulola Although Sri Luce Rusna spent the first five years of her life in New York City with her American father and Balinese mother (the renowned designer Desak Nyoman Suarti) it wasn’t until she moved to Bali that she began to develop a deep appreciation for jewellery design and traditional Balinese craftsmanship. Inspired by the creative energy of

Bali, the talents of the traditional artisans and the diversity and vibrancy of the cultures here, it was a natural progression for Sri to create her own handcrafted jewellery line, which she named Tulola after her daughter. Founded in 2011, Tulola presents collections that are a blend of ancient craftsmanship and modern design. Sri says, “Our brand lies in our jeweller’s studio. It is at the centre of all that we do–where we conceive collections and craft each and every piece. In terms of craftsmanship, this is what makes our jewellery different.” Sri works with local artisans from Bali and Java to handcraft pieces that feature intricate metalwork, natural motifs like flowers and leaves, and striking gemstones. In just two short years, Tulola has already earned the Yak Award for “Best Jewellery Design“ in 2012, a spot on Fashion TV, and plenty of attention from celebrities as diverse as Courtney Love and Kelly Rowland. JFF After graduating from the École des Beaux Arts in Lyon in the 1960s, eclectic French designer Jean-François Fichot spent years travelling the old Silk Trail route through Asia exploring ancient cultures, collecting unique treasures and soaking up the arts and cultures of the exotic places he visited. In 1978 he decided to settle in Ubud, where he teamed up with a group of Balinese craftsmen and began designing and producing one-of-a-kind jewellery and extraordinary objets d’art that quickly became renowned around the world for their unique mix of organic and antique materials and tribal elements. Up until his death in 2011, Jean-Francois put his passion and keen eye for beauty into creating wearable pieces of art, and today the tradition lives on in his niece and creative heir Chloe Rappy and JFF’s dedicated team of craftsmen. Chloe says, “Bali, the culture, the people and the nature is our main inspiration but the Eastern cultures in general are too. Our materials come from all over the world. We see beauty in certain materials where others may not and we give them a second life by using them in our collections. And most people are amazed with the end result.” Part of the appeal of the pieces from the JFF collections are that they are not just jewellery, but works of art that are unique, elegant and reminiscent of the mysteries of Eastern cultures.



Kapal Laut Kapal Laut is one of Bali’s most popular jewellery retailers for its simple, unpretentious designs that speak to women of all ages and walks of life. Designer Ricard Andreu and the Kapal Laut team create everything from timeless and classic best sellers to trendy models that are both unique and elegant. Using materials as diverse as silver, stainless steel, horn, bone, pearls, onyx, wood and leather, the company creates fun and funky jewellery and accessories that are highly sought after by people from around the world. When it comes to finding inspiration for the designs, Ricard says, “Find the small detail that makes the jewellery talk by itself. Raw nature is an endless source of inspiration, from a drop of water on a rainy day to a leaf on the ground.” The company also aims to make pieces that are straightforward rather than overcomplicated. “We embrace simplicity as the key for design. Simplicity makes the jewellery easy and appealing to wear. Women feel comfortable and confident, and that’s where real beauty shines,” Ricard says. Tel: 0361 758 401 Grammes Established in 2002, Grammes Jewellery has been drawing international attention for its contemporary pieces that make use of geometric patterns and colourful stones, shells, pearls, and gemstones set in fine silver and gold settings. From delicate earrings to chunky bracelets, unique rings and eye-catching necklaces, Grammes offers a wide range of contemporary jewellery for women of all ages and nationalities. Innovative owner and head designer of Grammes Jewellery, Teguh Budhi Raharjo, works with a team of skilled artisans in Bali to handcraft each and every piece in his diverse collections. “I love diving and I love Indonesian nature, so this is where I get my biggest inspiration,” Teguh says. It is easy to see the influences of the ocean in Teguh’s subtle, yet striking, pieces with water droplet shaped stones, mother of pearl inlays and turquoise pendants that mimic the breathtaking tones of the South Seas. Tel: 0361 731 562 Maru Celebrated designer Martina Urbas uses jewellery as her medium to express her interpretation of the environment around her. She explores and experiments with different metals, textures, settings, stones, shapes and proportions to create pieces that convey something particular about the wearer. Although she uses traditional Balinese jewellery making techniques, her unique combinations of silver, gold, brass and copper set Maru’s pieces apart from the mainstream and make her jewellery so much more than mere ornamentation. Martina says, “My customer is someone who knows they are looking for something that expresses something unique about themselves. They understand and appreciate design, they value


materials and craftsmanship and they truly love jewellery as ornaments that convey something particular about them. It is very important to me that what I design is wearable, that it feels good on, and makes the wearer feel they have chosen something that invokes some sense of connecting to themselves.” Jemme Step into Jemme Jewellery on Jalan Raya Petitenget, and you are immediately taken by the huge collection of vibrantly hued necklaces, bracelets and rings glinting in the glass display cases under crystal chandeliers. That and the fact that you can combine your shopping with some serious wining and dining at the elegant restaurant next to the showroom. With pieces that range from luxurious diamonds to bohemian chic, prices that cover every budget and an unconventional, swank boutique shop, it’s no wonder Jemme Jewellers is quickly becoming Bali’s favourite place to pick up all things shiny. “If it wasn't for being in colourful and beautiful Bali I don't think my jewellery would be the same as it is,” says Luke Stockley, owner and designer of Jemme Jewellery. “I love colour as much as I love glamour, and this is evident from the moment you walk through our doors. Coloured diamonds, amethysts, rubies, sapphires, tourmalines, opals, kunzites and beryls sparkle away in our display cabinets among a whole selection of other beautiful untreated stones - it's like being a child in a sweet shop.” Frederic Bonnet Designs When French designer Frederic Bonnet was just 15 years old, he started working with master goldsmiths and skilled stone setters to create elegant pieces made with platinum gold and precious stones. After a lengthy career working with some of the best jewellers in France, he washed up on the shores of Bali and was blown away by the fine craftsmanship and infectious energy here. He now calls Bali his home and creates modern and unusual pieces using the finest silver, gold and gemstones from his base in Ubud. The collections that come out of Frederic Bonnet Designs are an intriguing mix of delicate silver and gold, mother of pearl, rare gems, refined wood and resin. Each piece shows an obsessive attention to detail and innovative techniques. Think woven silver bracelets with chunky polished clasps, engagement rings with massive square-cut emeralds framed by glittering diamonds, and hammered gold rings inlaid with glittering gems.

get your rocks off at kapal laut, maru and jemme.


yak fashion photography angga pratama styling ozlem esen

model anna sergeevna make up and hair by nastia dekinova ana wears top/high waisted shorts by k.t.z. nose ring, bracelets and shoes by ozlem esen


tights by k.t.z. jacket/jewelry by ozlem esen bra by body intimates


black jacket and white tights by k.t.z vest/jewelry and by ozlem esen available at a.muse sunglasses available at prisoners of st petersburg

white/silver top by showroom available at a.muse pants by k.t.z. shoes by h&m


yak fashion


top/high waisted shorts by k.t.z. nose ring, bracelets and shoes by ozlem esen sunglasses by courreges paris


yak fashion

top/high waisted shorts by k.t.z. nose ring, bracelets and shoes by ozlem esen sunglasses by cast eyewear



yak fashion


all items by k.t.z. shoes and jewelry ozlem esen


mirror image

Stephanie mee previews Sara Nuytemans' solo exhibition at Biasa ArtSpace.

Why are we here and what is our role as human beings? Furthermore, how do our notions of individuality influence our view of the world, the Universe and others? These are the questions that Sara Nuytemans aims to address in her solo exhibition Observatories of the Self, which premiered in Indonesia at the newly launched Biasa ArtSpace in Jakarta, and continues here in Bali at the Biasa ArtSpace in Seminyak. Observatories of the Self transforms the gallery into a series of kinetic installations that help immerse the audience into an environment that forces the observer to become aware of their own physical presence, while still realising that they are part of the larger universe. The installations make use of mirrors, light and motorised technology to create spaces or “constellations“ that encourage people to think about how we accept and perceive ourselves and the wider world around us. In addition, Sara has collaborated with Biasa to create bespoke mirrored footwear accessories that fuse art and fashion, yet produce a conceptual intervention that is far removed from merely a simple fashion statement. The accessories offer the wearer a kaleidoscopic view of themselves and the environment around them, which is in line with the underlying message of Observatories of the Self. Born in Belgium in 1970, Sara began to question the things she was taught to assume as truth at a young age. By the time she reached her early 20s, she believed that the answers to all questions could be arrived at through reasoning alone. When a friend gave Sara a copy of Alexandra David-Néel’s autobiography about the author’s travels through Tibet, Sara developed a keen interest in the teachings of Buddhism and the notion that God is not extrinsic to ourselves, but rather a part of everything. She says, “It is, in some way, something mysterious or uncanny that makes us believe in instances beyond ourselves, what we might call God, the world or


our neighbour. It always has interested me how our duality intrinsic of the mind represents physical or conceptual dilemmas.” Sara went on to earn a double Masters in Industrial Design Engineering and Digital Arts, which has allowed her to produce highly technical work that explores the boundaries between the real and the artificial. Her work includes photography and video performance, mixed reality installations that combine audio and video, and kinetic installations that capture the audience. Throughout her career, Sara has sought to understand and explain human interpretations of and interactions with the world through her work. Since moving to Indonesia in 2006, the Yogyakarta-based artist has been profoundly influenced by the country in both her work and her own personal development. She is particularly drawn to the notions of individuality, awareness of community, and the joining of information from the external world with information from the internal world. Observatories of the Self is Sara’s first solo exhibition in Indonesia, and it is supported by Alia Swastika, curator of the first part of the artist’s project for the Gwangju Biennale in South Korea last year. He says, “In societies like Indonesia, where these installations are being exhibited, the notion of individuality is something that is not often applied in everyday life. With a long history of communal living and strong social bonds, people in Indonesia, in many cases, have no clear separation of public life and private life, therefore, the concept of individuality becomes blurred.” “From this basic state, the notion of individuality then is perceived in a very abstract manner; to acknowledge the existence of human beings, but not to guarantee respect and appreciation to express individual thoughts, feelings, and a personal world view. Hence, Sara Nuytemans’ proposal of Observatories of the Self hopefully provokes questions on how we accept and perceive ourselves.” In a first for both the artist and Biasa, Observatories of the Self further combined contemporary art and fashion with a preview of Biasa’s new Fall 2013/14 collection at the opening of the exhibition. The event showcased Biasa’s signature style, which is a unique combination of extraordinary simplicity, and the preview revealed playful cuts, extensive hand-artistry, and elegant styles using natural fabrics in bold, adventurous colours for both men and women. Sara says, “Aesthetics are an important part of presenting the concept of the Observatories of the Self mainly because, in my opinion, beauty in any way provokes appreciation for and participation in life. This can correspondingly create a deeper connection with our inner selves. To have my exhibition at Biasa, which is extremely engaged in the aspects of aesthetics through art, fashion and styling, I have the opportunity to take this aspect of my work to a new level.” Observatories of the Self runs from August 30 to September 29 at BIASA ArtSpace, Jl. Seminyak No.34, Seminyak. Tel: 0361 8475766

Jl. Kayu Aya (Oberoi) Seminyak (Near Ku de Ta) +62 361 739 146

oral pleasures

shiro I



Steffi Victorioso visits a sublime japanese secret. images lucky 8 and one eleven

zen palace.


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Conspiracy theorists talk about secret societies like the Illuminati and Freemasons that meet under the cover of night in unmarked locations. The speculation being that only a privileged few have access to the world’s bestkept secrets. If you’re fortunate enough to know of Shiro, the secret treasure Japanese restaurant atop the One Eleven Resort in Seminyak, consider yourself among Bali’s dining elite. If only for a small light-fixture displaying a Japanese character to designate the location of One Eleven Resort, this place is more than just tucked away. It’s almost hidden. After driving by it a couple of times, I really began to wonder why a place like this would forego the big fancy signage that usually sits in front of resorts and villas in Seminyak, that is until I walked into the lobby and understood. The One Eleven prides itself on privacy and seclusion – offering the quiet solitude of a private villa but with all the prerequisites of a full-service resort, One Eleven is the best of both worlds. Away from rambunctious kids running around and screaming, or obnoxiously drunk vacationers uttering loud obscenities, this resort is for sophisticated, cosmopolitan travelers. All nine villas within the resort are a minimalist’s dream-come-true. Every structure, every piece of furniture, and every empty space serves a purpose – to create a state of zen. Each villa has a luxurious pool and a private spa room, should you choose to never leave your sanctuary. The Tao of this resort lies in its sushi and sake bar, Shiro. Chef Hiromi Mimika, appropriately wearing a sterile white lab coat in this immaculate restaurant, works alone behind the bar. After completing his training in Japan, Hiromi spent a decade working in Jakarta, before coming to Bali. Reminiscent of traditional sushi bars in Japan, it’s a small room, but its geometrical wooden interior opens up the compact space. Like the villas in the

resort, the restaurant exudes a meditative ambience. Clean lines and gorgeous wood do enough for the simple interior thankfully devoid of any kitsch such as clichéd geisha blinds or a waving lucky cat. The menu is simple – a list of nigiri and sashimi, a choice of two Omasake set dinners which include assorted cooked dishes, and a good variety of topnotch sake. Everything on the menu is superb and of the highest quality. No stranger to food adventures, I went for the Shiro Omasake set. By the time the third plate came out, I had already fallen in love with the chef –and it wasn’t just the sake talking. It’s a wonderful feeling have one’s culinary experience being presided over by a true professional exuding a humble pride in what he does. His knife skills are masterful. His plating presentation is alluring. And his food . . . incredible. The mark of quality in fresh fish is found in the flavour, texture, and aroma. The fish here tastes as if it came directly out of the ocean just before plating. It has the sweet scent of clean ocean water and the texture is just firm enough to feel your teeth sinking into the fish as you bite into it. If size matters, then you’ll be happy to know that each piece of sushi here is substantial. Both the nigiri and sashimi plates are well proportioned with bitesized slices of fish. Even the oysters are huge, not to mention tasty, with just the right amount of brininess. As for the cooked dishes, I had the fish and Japanese beef. The seafood was sweet and smoky, and the beef, tender and marbled, giving it a juicy, fatty flavor. If in upscale dining I was permitted to lick the plate, I may have considered it. For dessert, the green tea mousse and fruit plate was a nice palette cleanser, but I couldn’t resist ordering the red bean ice cream. Hiromi prepares it himself from scratch, and it’s the kind of thing conversations are interrupted for. It was sweet, creamy, and to put it mildly, out of this world. At either Rp.500 thousand, or one million for the Omakse sets, the pricing is on par with other Japanese restaurants at resorts in Bali. Shiro’s been hidden in plain sight in the heart of Seminyak for over a year . . . it’s time that others be acquainted with one of the finer restaurants on the island. Consider yourself in the know.

Hiromi san.


oral pleasures

faces of one eleven.


no turning back on service.


oral pleasures universally recognised as one of the best bartenders in the world. sophie digby shared a cocktail with him at sundara, four seasons jimbaran bay.


Your name, Javier de las Muelas – Xavier of the Molars. Are you named after a saint? And I haven’t even added the Frances bit at the front because then it really would be . . . Maybe that’s how I came to the similarity between bars and churches. Some are cathedrals and a very few are the “chosen ones”, Vaticans. Like the liturgy carried out at the altar; cocktails are being created at the actual bar. Cocktail making is ecclesiastical? How so? It is the liturgy that surrounds the way we work – ritual, veneration toward the “flock”. The barman is the priest, the bar is the altar, the offering is the cocktail and as I said previously the venue is the church. . . . and scientific also – supported by two sciences, chemistry and maths; flavours which attract and compliment each other, alongside calculus and proportions. And in both cases presided over by exactitude. When and why did you take up the cause of the cocktail? From very young, I remember aged six being drawn to the goings-on in the pub (bodeguita) opposite my house; they sold wine by the barrel, drinks and ice blocks for refrigerators. I am from a different generation than my wife, as Lourdes often reminds me; and in those days seated around a marble table as they drank their small bottle of beer or maybe a coffee, the patrons chatted on a diverse number of themes . . . about life. Those moments, the murmur of those conversations, the plunk of the empty bottles and the clink of those sharing a toast enraptured me. Many years later I discovered the world of cocktail; I discovered a bar called Boadas, a uniquely American bar, next to Barcelona’s famed Ramblas. And it was there that a great lady, Maria Dolores, “officiated”. A grand dame of the bar, leading her team in a perfect ballet. Seeing the mixing glasses being decanted, the cocktail shakers in motion and the music that emanated from them as the spirits, liqueurs and juices were ‘beaten’ together seduced me and opened a world of magic. From these moments came the rest ... Timeline of your mixology history . . . My initiation came with Gimlet (a legendary cocktail bar in Barcelona). Then in 1980, in a neighbourhood of Barcelona, The Born – bohemian, London-Soho in style, full of artists, of colour and dreams. Then came another Gimlet in the higher part of town, then Nick Havana, Casa Fernandez, Fats, Montesquiu and Dry Martini . . . then I opened more Dry bars in Madrid and

San Sebastián . . . until reaching Bali – Sundara at the Four Seasons Jimbaran. I am interested in creating “collections”, similar to fashion lines, in enriching the world of The Bar, in attaining excellence. What for you is the “tipping point” behind the bar, and in the public eye? The way in which we welcome our “parishioners” that enter our establishments . . . empathy, a smile and enthusiasm. The tipping point to the public has to be when we “officiate” a Dry Martini . . . What have been the main game changers in the world of cocktail? The most decisive and for me the most important: the inclusion of woman and the feminine in the drinking culture. Bars opened themselves up and are now spaces with light and glamour. Women fly the flag to drink more intelligently, with less alcoholic content in today’s style of cocktails. Maddona’s blessing (Javier is a huge Madonna fan!) of the Cosmopolitan, and the repercussion that chick flicks and TV series such as Sex in The City have had. Retro cocktails are making a comeback – why? They answer to the present trend of the Speakeasy, homage to clandestine bars under Prohibition. Personally I am not a fan as they have a high alcoholic content. What is the secret behind a good cocktail versus a bad cocktail? The difference is in Professionalism with a capital “P” and knowing that success also depends on the time of day and the company you keep. Why in your opinion are there so few women in the industry? That was true in the past but today there are a number of great “barmaids”. It’s the media that gives them less attention, as it is with men and the world of cuisine, I don’t get it! Tell us more about your company It’s our passion; our aim is that our bars and restaurants become an active and positive part of human life. We travel; venues, countries and continents. We are ambitious yet humble. And a passion is Asia and her different cultures, above all Japan and Bali. The way they understand life and their people impassion me. What is your proudest moment? When two people leave one of my bars holding hands – united in communion. Your collaboration with Four Seasons Jimbaran, tell all . . .

It was at first contact, with Michael Braham, the G.M. here, a few years back in Tokyo. Bonds happen when meeting certain people. Michael believed in me, in us, and in the idea of collaborating with him; the fantastic project of Sundara did the rest. My input with the concept of the Dry brand goes further than to just create signature cocktails . . . it is to help guests to enjoy different positive experiences. Where do you see yourself going, personally and professionally? Professionally, its my wish is to translate my brand into other countries in Asia and if possible hand in hand with the Four Seasons. In the upcoming months, I am opening Dry in London and in another capital in South America. Also my aim is to develop surrounding ‘elements’ to my brand Dry Martini, new ways and methods – droplets, joyas and glassware. Personally, I am going to collaborate with the Barraquer Foundation of Barcelona on their journeys throughout diverse countries in Africa, as a nurse assisting in mobile cataract operations. If you weren’t “the best bartender in the world” what would you be? I don’t think that I am. The only thing I do pursue is to offer satisfaction to those who come to my bars and to those that surround me daily. I’d like (and I already do) to manage people in whose ideas I believe in. And actively help the needy, with love and as a source of support. You brought ‘drops’ into the world of cocktails, what are they? Droplets are drops without alcoholic content, natural concentrates of different flavours – honey, ginger, smoked, rosemary . . . that transform with only seven or eight drops the flavour of the cocktail or the taste of a dish. How did that come about? Investigating, trying to find “the way”. After two years we found it. Highlights and lowlights of your trip to Bali? The goodness of her people. I had been here before but now I leave even more emotional and shocked – in a fabulous way – by their “being”. The sounds, the smells. I am fascinated by Bali and her everything. It could be a little less humid but hey, it’s the tropics! Will you be back? I am already wishing I was. It's like part of my soul is there. It has also permitted me to meet an amusing English gypsy who has spent the last 20 years living there – that’s you!


oral pleasures TEXT: Steffi Victorioso & michael pohorly IMAGES: LUCKY 8


style and substance at mejekawi.


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There’s enough modernist cooking equipment in the open concept kitchen at Mejekawi, Ku De Ta’s new second level restaurant, to suggest there will be more than a few influences of Molecular Gastronomy on chef Benjamin Cross’s menu. However, the Ultrasonic Homogenizer, Rotary Evaporator and a Water Circulator, that slow cooks food to 0.1 of a degree, are still overshadowed here by a much more traditional cooking technology – fire, via the inset giant open-flame stone grill. Getting the mix right between the high-tech progressive and the naturalistic, the cutting-edge and the classic, is what made Ku De Ta iconic, and it’s latest offering is no exception. Mejekawi, overlooking the famous beach club’s courtyard and oceanfront, is an upscale tasting kitchen boasting a brilliant Indonesian-inspired menu. The cuisine is refined and sophisticated. This carefully constructed menu revolves around ingredients sourced from a few local farms, and everything is made in-house from scratch. There are two set menus to choose from: the seven-course, or, for the fanatical foodies, the 11-course dinner. Dishes are perfectly paired with drinks, not necessarily being wine. From champagne to sake, red wine and white wine, sweet or dry, each drink pairing was crafted specifically to enhance the flavour profile of each dish. The restaurant’s simple décor is understated, allowing diners to maintain their focus on the food. Surprisingly, the highlight of the room isn’t the view of the ocean. It’s the view of the open kitchen in the center of the dining room – there is something to be said about a chef and his brigade cooking out in the open for everyone to see. The meal started off with coral trout and sambal on a crispy fried tempeh chip. It awakens the pallet, a worthy opening act to the rest of the menu, which included many must-try highlights. Paying homage

to its more common babi guling likeness, the suckling pig terrine with pickled palm hearts is a delicate preparation of such rich ingredients. Who knew it was possible to make suckling pig taste light and delicate? I was enchanted by the server’s tableside presentation of the oxtail soup . . . pouring the silky, rich broth onto the oxtail meat and charred onion inside the bowl. The unbelievably tender chunk of oxtail was perfectly cooked and practically melted in the soup. And I was surprised by the unlikely but delicious drink pairing of a glass of sake with such a robust dish. The “lobster roll”, as it’s referred to on the menu, is a cheeky misnomer, as the lobster in question is actually a distant relative, a giant prawn. This dish, beautifully composed and well balanced, was a star dish of the night. The tangy kimchi aioli brought out the sweetness of the homemade brioche and the buttery prawn. The dessert – all four plates of it – was sweet and texturally intriguing. Whereas the seven-course dinner finishes with a more straightforward chocolate dessert, the 11-course enters avant-garde Molecular territory with a vanilla panna cotta, a praline sponge, a baby macaroon, and marshmallows. Adding to the overall delight here, the staff weren’t only friendly and attentive, but extremely knowledgeable. Everything was cooked to perfection. And although some of the dishes feature different cooking techniques, all the dishes remain purely Indonesian, proving that it is possible to do fine dining Indonesian cuisine without the help of fusion distractions. Ku De Ta earned bragging rights as being Bali’s first and most famous beach club, and now Mejekawi offers up another uniquely satisfying experience.

room with a view.


oral pleasures elegant fun.


Drew Corridore experiences the latest happening place in Seminyak... Charlie Bar & Kitchen. Images: Luckly 8.


oral pleasures light, bar, lounge . . . luscious.


Just down from the intersection of Jalan Petitenget and Jalan Raya Kerobokan is a striking architectural statement reminiscent of an oldfashioned fire station. With its bright red façade, Charlie Bar and Kitchen, is a multi-storeyed bakery, restaurant, and bar, with minimalist, stripped-back interior design complemented by cozy and companionable spaces for people to gather for fine repast, a few drinks, and the swapping of stories. The ye-olde-style bar on the second storey would not appear out of place in any traditional English pub. Muscovite, Julia Saunina – one of four partners – says Charlie is a concept born of an internationalist approach to creating a convivial venue for the melting pot that is Bali. “It is more than just a restaurant, more than just a bar, and Charlie is a persona whom nobody has met but everybody knows – and wants to be like him,” Julia says. “Most people have some traits of him in them, because Charlie is a citizen of the world – a globetrotter who has the widest interests and has seen the world, who loves art, loves adventure, who knows that the most important things in life are the little things. “That’s why on Bali he got his friends to create an oasis where people can come and have a good time, regardless of whether he’s here, travelling somewhere else . . . or out there saving the world.” “A person who has self irony is probably such a person, so we’re not trying to offer something terribly serious . . . everything we offer is high quality but we don’t want to be formal and make people wonder if it’s okay for them to come or not,” she says. Julia says a good analogy for Charlie is the English idea of “the local” (pub) – traditionally a combination of community, cuisine and friendly watering hole – which she has yet to see on Bali. On the first level is the bakery – selling breads and pastries that are baked freshly each day in Charlie’s kitchen– and a cafeteria where espresso machine and barista turn out excellent brews. Upwards on the iron stairway is the bar, which has, amongst an extensive range of cocktails, the Tamarind Spiced Margarita; Charlie’s Naval Grog; and a dragon-fruit infused gin, lime, eggwhite, rose syrup, and soda number called Naga Fizz. There is a substantial list of Italian, French, Australian and South African wines, and a range of champagnes. Bottled beers from here and around the globe, and on-tap Kilkenny round out the libations on offer at Charlie’s. Scrumptious Bar Bites feature things like Gourmet Bakso Meatballs; Smoked Dynamite Roll (a sizzler); and Chicken Quesadilla.

Executive chef, Meidy Zuhri, was hunted down in Dubai and brought to Charlie where he serves Charlie’s foodie friends the best of the classic dishes from around the world, with a modern twist. The Jakarta native has travelled the world and has cooked alongside the top chefs like Chef Alain Passard (Michelin three-star, Lâ Arpege, Paris) and Chef Philippe Labbe (Michelin two-star, Shangri La, Paris). He has worked at the restaurants of the luxury Shangri La and Traders hotels in Abu Dhabi, moving on to Dubai to work at the Edge restaurant in Dubai Financial Centre – renowned for its molecular cuisine, and later at the Address Downtown luxury hotel in Dubai. Having learned from the best, Meidy sees cooking as art . . . From his kitchen come all sorts of fantastic fare for hungry types looking for more substantial sustenance. Entrees include Slow Cooked Beef Salad; Jasmine Wood Salmon Salad; and Wild Mushroom Veloute – a creamy soup with four kinds of mushrooms, torched garlic, sage, and cream (fabulous). And on the main course side of things check out Pan-seared Garoupa Fillet; 58 Degrees Chicken; and Sous Vide Lamb Loin – with potato croquette, eggplant caviar, garlic comfit, smoked cauliflower puree, and juice. Of course there’s a lot more to tempt the taste buds of those weaving the rich tapestry of life. For the diner with room to spare there are dreamy desserts including Green Tea Mousse Cake; Fresh Mango Cheese Cake; and Heavenly Tiramisu – with chocolate caviar and raspberry coulis. Julia says that although Charlie will be open from 8am for breakfast, lunch, and dinner . . . until “the last person leaves” in the wee hours, the partners are working on the requisite authority to stay open 24/7. “Ideally it’s a house where everyone can come and feel at home regardless of what time it is . . . there will always be something happening – during the day the light changes, the music changes, we change the menu around . . . “Music is an important part of our ambience, including live acts, and we will play an eclectic range because not everyone has the same tastes – we want everyone to find something they like.” So head on down to this tastefully themed, townhouse style, centre of recreation and relaxation. Once inside you might be in a venue that would fit comfortably in any major city in the world, but is a welcoming world unto itself . . . Do it. Tel: 082147417332 www.


oral pleasures

THE FIRE STATION, SANUR. GOOD FOOD. GREAT TIMES. Sanur may not be everyone's choice for a night out in Bali, but on the advice of a colleague I find myself heading to the soporific seaside town on a Friday night to check out the island’s newest gastropub, The Fire Station. Word has it that the food is superb, the drinks are top rate, and the ambiance lends itself to whiling away the hours with good company and leisurely libations. Located on Jalan Danau Poso, The Fire Station is packed when we arrive. Nary a seat can be found outside – the patio is full of expats, locals and tourists conversing over beers and other exotic beverages. As we walk into the retro styled dining room, we can see that the dark wooden tables are full of diners of all ages, the red vinyl booths along the exposed brick wall are at capacity, and even the long wooden bar has its fair share of bar flies staking out their spots. We are greeted by the Belgian manager, Frederick De Sterke (or Fre, as he goes by), and he manages to find us a seat at a newly opened table on the patio. Unlike the majority of dining venues on the island, The Fire Station is non-smoking inside for those who prefer a breath of clean air while eating, while the patio is fair game for the nicotine addled among us. Within minutes, the servers set us up with menus and cold Bintangs, and we get to work narrowing down the choices. The menu at The Fire Station is a mix of modern Australian cuisine, Asian-inspired dishes and pub fare classics. Simple and unpretentious, yet not lacking in the creativity department, the menu offers one page of starters and mains, and the chalkboards around the dining room boast the chef’s latest culinary inspirations for the evening. Ravenous after our long traffic-clogged drive from Ubud, my dining companion and I get right down to the starters. It’s a tough choice with tempting items like the Chilli Salt and Pepper Squid and the Rocket with Caramelized Pear, Shaved Parmesan and Balsamic Reduction, but we finally decide on the Tempura Prawns to whet our appetites. The prawns come wrapped in a golden fluffy batter and are served with soy sauce and lime. Straightforward, light and tasty, they are great harbinger of things to come.


As the servers discreetly whisk away our starter plates and replace our Bintangs with chilled Hoegaardens, Fre stops by the table and fills us in on some of the restaurant’s finer details. Opened just a few months ago, The Fire Station is the brainchild of English owner Darcy, who aims to create a modern pub that serves sophisticated food and drinks without the sophisticated price tag. At the moment, the ground floor and patio are in full swing, and soon the upper level will be part of the package as well. The menu was developed by chef Steve Tkautz, formerly of The London Hotel in Sydney, and his selection of contemporary dishes like the Crispy Pork Belly in a caramel vinegar sauce served with stir-fried Asian greens and rice, and the meaty Fire Station Wagyu Burger with optional cheese and bacon seem to be exactly what the customers want, as the restaurant has been consistently busy since opening day. On Fre’s recommendation, we order the Slow-cooked Chargrilled Pork Ribs with BBQ sauce, marinated and cooked for 12hours so that the meat is tender and falling off the bone. The BBQ sauce is a mix of sweet, tangy and slightly smoky flavours, and the crispy fries on the side are great for sopping up the extra sauce. Naughty Nuri’s watch out, these are some pretty serious ribs. We also order the Crispy Skin Red, Snapper Fillet, which comes with seared scallops, green beans and a cauliflower pureé. The snapper is fresh and cooked to perfection with white, flaky flesh and a thin layer of seasoned crispy skin that contrasts nicely with the creamy puree. The scallops are small, but again, cooked perfectly, so the texture is spot on. As the evening wears on, new faces become familiar faces and the conversation flows as steadily as the martinis and mojitos. We have no desire to leave, but anxious about catching a late night cab back to Ubud, we eventually drag ourselves away from the cool vintage-inspired space, relaxed ambiance and captivating conversations, convinced that The Fire Station is exactly what Sanur (and Bali, for that matter) needs. S.M.

oral pleasures

linda adelstein meets the duo behind watercress, one of a new set of breezy cafes on the road to canGgu. Pablo and Jordie.

The story of Watercress café is one of friendship, family and food spanning generations and continents. The young, dynamic owners, Pablo and Jordie, grew up together on the east coast of Australia in Byron Bay. Their father and stepfather respectively were childhood friends, having met in the south of France as rebellious teenagers before emigrating to Australia in the late ‘70s. So from one friendship was born another, and Pablo and Jordie were destined to become partners. Their relationship with good food started young. Jordie’s stepfather, Jean-Paul, was a pastry chef, and with Jordie’s mother, owned and operated a French bakery on the east coast of Australia. They lived on the second floor and Jordie vividly recalls waking to the unforgettable scent of freshly baked croissants in the early morning. Pablo’s father, Joel, was an artisanal ice cream maker and Pablo’s favorite thing as a kid was to eat freshly made ice cream from the whirling machines before they made it to the freezer. Pablo also grew up in Bali where he went to school and lived with his mother for several years. She had just opened Cafe Krakatoa – a bustling expat hangout and an iconic part of Seminyak’s early beginnings. Pablo would spend his afternoons, amongst the chaotic café setting, doing his homework whilst absorbing the atmosphere. For both boys mealtime was a particularly European-style family affair, an open house, where friends would drop by to share in lively conversation fueled by passion, laughter and perhaps some vin rouge. By the time Pablo was 13 he returned to Byron Bay to complete his schooling and reunite with his friend, Jordie. As teenagers they combined their cooking skills and put on dinners for friends but mainly to impress girls, apparently this 144

seemed to prove quite successful and the duo knew they were onto something special. After school they went their separate ways – Pablo spending years in London where he honed his hospitality talents, bartending in some of the hottest venues in the town, while Jordie toured Japan performing Diablo on stage. Fast forward to the present where the friends have reunited on Bali to create the Watercress café. The beautiful layout at Watercress with its vintage, industrial, and airy atmosphere was created by Pablo at his mother’s request. Catherine had the idea with a friend to have a café where they would like to eat . . . somewhere where the food was healthy and full of flavour. As it turned out Catherine soon found that the whole venture was more than she could manage alongside her successful fashion line, and so invited Pablo to take over the proceedings and he, in turn, invited Jordie on board as his partner. “We are more than just friends, we’re brothers too, and now business partners as well, we really want to do the same things and share the same vision for the café,” Pablo says. Since taking over Watercress last December they have built on the original concept and design, and come up with a comprehensive menu of flavourful, wholesome dishes, and a simple, homey atmosphere. They also have the lovely Wayan in the kitchen, cooking up a storm every day. Wayan and her close-knit team are at the heart of Watercress – they care deeply about the quality and freshness of food they serve. This story of the interweaving of lives can be felt in the success that Watercress is proving to be.

oral pleasures


LOVES When Restaurant magazine released its prestigious list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for 2013, Spain slaughtered the competition with three restaurants in the top ten, including the number one spot (El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, in case you were wondering). No other country managed to grab more than one spot in the top ten, which is perhaps a testimony to the ingenuity of Spanish chefs and the superb produce that comes out of this incredibly diverse country. With this in mind, is it any wonder that some of Bali’s finest dining establishments are Spanish or Latin inspired? El Kabron Nothing beats the stylish digs and picturesque location of El Kabron, resting high atop a cliff in Uluwatu and overlooking the swells of the Indian Ocean far below. By day, the place is part Mediterranean-style beach club with a freeform infinity pool overlooking the ocean and comfy blue and white beanbag chairs surrounding the pool. Come sunset, it’s all about signature cocktails at intimate tables, authentic Spanish tapas and laid-back grooves by live bands and DJs. Spanish-born executive chef, Marc Torices, inherited his passion for cooking and love for the natural flavours of Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from his grandmother, and he brings his gastronomic flair to El Kabron’s tapas, paellas and sweet treats. Small plates include imported Spanish Bellota ham and cured Manchego cheese served with toasted bread sprinkled with fresh tomato and olive oil, Pulpo a la Gallega, Sliced Octopus with Potatoes seasoned with smoked paprika and olive oil, and Montaditos de Butifarra Catalana, Grilled Homemade Catalan Sausage with toasted bread. If it’s sweet treats you’re after, indulge in some of the best Crema Catalana this side of Barcelona. Torices recently revealed his ‘Rustique Dining’ menu, which features dishes made with fresh ingredients that are loyal to what the ground can deliver at different times of year and prepared simply, avoiding unnatural approaches. This way, the true flavours of the ingredients come out and are celebrated in their essence. The a la carte rustic menu is available from 7:30pm to 9:30pm daily. When the sun has well and truly set and the stars are twinkling above, El Kabron heats up into a stylish and sophisticated nightlife venue, with live music every night of the week. Tel: 0361 7803416

From Top: Sangria at La Finca; Endless views at El Kabron; table sense at la sal.


The yak sambas through some of the must-visit latin-style eateries on the island, by susan hu.

La Finca Just as you would expect from a vibrant Latin restaurant, La Finca offers heaps of character in its beautiful open-air setting with soaring bamboo beams, rustic wooden chairs and tables and outdoor garden seating amid lanterns and fairy lights. The vibe here is easy-going yet lively, and no attention to detail is spared, right down to the bright ceramic plates and beautifully presented Basque and Mediterranean dishes. The owners at La Finca work under the philosophy of ‘Alimenta El Alma’, which means ‘feed the soul’, so each dish is made with soul to feed the soul, using fresh organic ingredients and artisan methods and recipes. Besides the usual tapas suspects like Jamon Iberico, Patatas Bravas, and special selections of Spanish cheeses, La Finca thinks outside the box with creative dishes like the Paquetito de Foie Gras con Salsa de Remolacha y Estragon, Wrapped Foie Gras in creamy red beet tarragon sauce, Paquetitos de La Finca, artisan pasta pockets stuffed with sundried tomatoes, feta, and basil and complemented with capers, olives, rocket and butter sauce, or their famous Carne a la Piedra de la Finca, hot stone-grilled Australian rib-eye steak served with fresh spices, herbs and sauces. Keep an eye out for their weekly croquette specials made with various fillings like truffles, roast chicken and jalapeño, and squid with squid ink. For those looking for a midday fix, La Finca also recently open for lunch. La Finca is conveniently located between Canggu and Seminyak, just minutes from Batu Belig Beach. Tel: 0361 2740088 La Sal Bali’s first Spanish-Argentine restaurant is the brainchild of chef Gonzalo Sanchez and Lino de Zordo, who have been tantalizing palates with their contemporary tapas, tender BBQ meats and creative Latin-inspired specialties since 2005. Here the culinary concept of good food paired with good drinks and good company reigns supreme in the breezy al fresco dining area decked out in warm wood tones and surrounded by frangipani trees, and in the covered dining room with intimate white tables and soft lighting. The space is conducive to long leisurely dinners with friends and family over a few bottles of wine, and La Sal’s unwavering attention to detail in cuisine, ambiance and service makes it no surprise that La Sal is the recipient of the Trip Advisor Certificate of

oral pleasures

Excellence for 2013. The tapas at La Sal never fail to impress, as they are made with the only the best imported and local ingredients and are a mix of both traditional and modern culinary construction. Cold tapas include the Carpaccio with Foie Gras and a Manchego cheese cloud, Marinated Spanish Olives, and the fresh and vibrant Bruschetta with vegetables and goat’s cheese. If calientes are more your style, you can choose from Calamari deep fried and drizzled with white and black aioli, Grilled Garlic Prawns with truffle oil, or the sailor’s style Clam Casserole. Fresh salads can also be shared and are hard to resist with offerings like the Soft Shell Crab Caesar Salad or the Warm Goat’s Cheese Salad with a sweet and crunchy honeywalnut vinaigrette. For those with bigger appetites, the main course menu offers an abundance of savoury meat and seafood dishes. Finish the meal off with a sinfully smooth white chocolate and dark chocolate mousse or the Helado de Dulce de Leche, caramel ice cream prepared in true Argentinian style. Tel: 0361 738321 Tapeo Gastrobar A welcome addition to Beachwalk’s already vibrant dining scene, Tapeo Gastrobar is both cutting edge restaurant and sleek rooftop bar serving up chilled sangria and Iberian fare in a contemporary setting overlooking Kuta Beach. After a long day of surfing, shopping and sun worshipping, head to the second floor location and grab a seat outside on the expansive wooden deck with oversized day beds adorned with comfortable cushions, or head indoors for a more intimate vibe. Tapeo's innovative menu features a mix of traditional Spanish flavours mixed with modern creations. Take for example, the sangria list, which includes six different options to choose from made with either red, white or rosé wine. Throw in a creative tapas list, and you’re simply spoiled for

Top and centre: Authentic Spanish Seafood at La Sal; Above: Serenity in Sanur.


choice. Try the wildly popular Queso Brie Frito, fried Brie served with mango marmalade, Atun Marinado, Marinated Tuna with soy sauce and seaweed salad, or the Mini Hamburguesa de Oxtail, which is exactly what it sounds like—a mini hamburger with a.n oxtail patty, seasoned to perfection and garnished with mayo and rucola. Mains include six different types of paella as well as fresh salads and a wide selection of fish and meat dishes. After the feast is done, stick around to rock out to live bands or groove to the DJs hitting the decks on the rooftop patio under the stars. Tel: 0361 8465645 Serenity Spanish Restaurant & Bar With an unassuming facade and simple red and white sign reading Serenity Spanish Bar & Restaurant, you might be tricked into thinking that this is just another run-of-the-mill dining venue. However like so often is the case, the modest exterior belies what lies within. Drive past it on the Sanur Bypass, and you would be missing out on one of Bali’s newest hidden gems—temple of opulence, romance, space and muy delicioso authentic Spanish flavours. A quick tour of the restaurant reveals two levels, with the main dining room and al fresco terrace on the ground floor and a swank cigar lounge, private party room and intimate tables hidden in cosy corners on the upper level. The lavish decor carries throughout each of the rooms, and the sense of light and space is compounded by large windows and a wide balcony that looks down onto the main dining room. Serenity Bar & Restaurant comes to us from Singapore, where it has a long-standing reputation for Mediterraneanstyle ambiance and delicious Spanish fare, including tapas, paella and their famous Cochinillo Asado, which has often been referred to as the most succulent roast suckling pig in the city, possibly even giving Bali’s babi guling a run for its money. Popular tapas choices include the Patatas Bravas, golden chunks of potato drizzled in a mildly spicy Romesco sauce and smooth aioli and the Rollito de Beicon y Esparragos for its crisp green asparagus wrapped in warm salty bacon. Wash it all down with a red sangria made with smooth Spanish Rioja or a white sangria made with a fruity Australian Sauvignon Blanc.

big six

sarah douglas goes all out for chocolate.

Inspirational, devotional and delicious, chocolate has the power to fuel passion like nothing else. It has been written about endlessly, starred in movies, generated fortunes and played in countless love stories. Cooks and chefs alike have been inspired by it, played with it, coaxed it into glorious creations, from the most avant-garde, to favourites that conjure childhood memories. Chandi’s Chocolate Fondant. It has been tried, tested and sometimes fabulously represented by Bali chefs, but Chandi’s former Yak Chef of the Year, Agung, put this on one of his very first menus and it remains sublime, luxurious and perfect every time. This is no mean feat, as this little bugger has a way of turning the tables on even the most accomplished chefs. As with everything on his menu, Agung only plays with the best ingredients, and the deeply delicious couverture chocolate he uses here speaks volumes about quality. Pierce this baby and the warm chocolate centre oozes, turning even the most calorieconscious dieter into a spoon-wielding Bruce Lee. Tel: 731 060 Yak Map. Q.8 Bistrot’s Chocolate Soufflé. Yet another make or break dessert, the chocolate soufflé has turned heads since long before Julia Child put on an apron. Bistrot, the divine bistro on Oberoi Road, serves up a light-as-air soufflé that is paired with the most divine, creamy hazelnut ice cream and fresh berries, that tingles, tantalizes and seduces. Perfect in every element, it is the crowning glory of a truly French meal, but also sinfully good as a total indulgence all on its own. Pair it with a sticky from the extensive menu of brandies, liqueurs and fortified wines and this is pure joy on the palette and on the plate. Tel: 738 308 Yak Map. T.8


Hand-made Indulgence at Gourmand Deli. Aptly named, the Gourmand Deli at St Regis is the playground of French patissiere, Vincent, who turns his hand to all manner of desserts for the uber-luxurious resort, and turns out a selection of hand-made chocolates that will turn the heads of the most refined guests. Chocolate spills over at this stylish deli, with fountains of Valhrona filling the air with rich aromas and dark deliciousness. Marshmallows and ripe strawberries are almost an also-ran here. The hand-made chocolates, stamped with the prestigious logo of St Regis make divine gifts, almost too good to share. Wrap them up in glorious gift boxes or just choose one to tame the wild beast when the call for chocolate is simply too much to resist. Tel: 8478 111 Chocolate dances with foie gras at Oberoi. They probably shouldn’t go together yet somehow the deft skill of Oberoi’s master chef, Enrico, another former Yak Chef of the year, transforms this pairing into something that is incredible. Although much better known for it’s Indian and Balinese menus, Kura Kura restaurant at the Oberoi also offers degustation menus that almost defy description. This is a dish that often shows up and it is one of those dishes you will still be thinking about the following day, and possibly much longer. How did he do it? Don’t try this at home. Enrico and his team have a little lab where all manner of creations are tried and tested before they appear on the menu. Intricate in detail and subtle in texture, bitter chocolate and foie gras are intertwined in a perfect chequerboard pattern. This one is a savoury but he also tries the combination in a creamy truffle, a final flourish of wow! Tel: 731 361 Yak Map. N.9

The Bomb at Fire, W resort. W’s Director of Cuisine, Richard Millar, making his third appearance in Bali is an enthusiastic supporter of local producers. At Fire, the atmospheric restaurant where W Resort turns up the heat every night, Richard has created an explosive dessert that pays homage to one of his favourite discoveries, the local chocolate producer POD. This is a dessert made to share and also has incredible theatrical appeal. A sphere of Pod chocolate is filled with a variety of homemade goodies floating in a sticky chocolate sauce. Hot chocolate is poured over the sphere at the table, revealing the rich, sticky interior. The impact of this taste sensation is not to be minimized, and comes with a warning . . . share this or indulge solo at your peril. Rich to the nth degree, it is a fitting tribute to a local manufacturer. Tel: 4738 105 Yak Map. O.4 Chocolate to soothe at Zucchini. Zucchini Café serves up fresh, home-made goodness and one of their best sellers since the doors opened are the deeply decadent, chewy brownies created by one of our own Yakkers. Brownies should be chewy, fudgy and redolent of the very best chocolate, real butter, and created with love. These ones hit the spot. Made with love and based on a coveted home recipe, they are the business. If that doesn’t tickle your fancy watch the chocolate chip cookies walk out the door, or opt for the flourless chocolate cake which is the perfect antidote to the giant bowls of guilt-free salad on offer every day. Tel: 081246760747 Yak Map. T.8

constant wining

vi n

Wine lovers rejoice at the opening of another wine boutique in Bali.

A new place has opened on Jalan Kayu Jati, Seminyak – an exciting place for those of us who enjoy a glass of wine from time to time. Vin+ is an Aladdin’s cave with more than 18-thousand bottles of wine in over 200 styles. It is the sixth Vin+ to open in Indonesia, and the first outlet for this boutiquestyle retailer on Bali. From the outside, the architecture of the store is quite striking – with 20-metre bamboo spars forming a structure reminiscent of a wine barrel. This is the Vin Plus restaurant and wine bar – set amongst a lush outdoor oasis of coconut palms and frangipani – that adjoins the upmarket, uber-modern and stylish wine shop. The restaurant/bar area is fitted out with trendy black-and-red-themed sofas that beckon discussions amongst friends and strangers alike about the relative merits of the current bottle . . . and the next one. It is an open, though cozy, environment in which to meet new people. Inside the shop is a treasure trove for wine lovers with hand picked selections from the old and new worlds. And a temperature controlled Premium wine room that houses some of the world’s finest and most exclusive labels and vintages.


Vin Plus Seminyak is managed by an experienced team with combined knowledge in wine and hospitality gained throughout France, Italy, South America, the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Indonesia. Another Vin+ innovation is its offering of a door-to-door delivery service throughout southern Bali. Handy, but it would be a shame not to visit the wine boutique and soak up the opulent, laid back, ambience . . . while fantasizing about that bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or Grange Hermitage. Two of Vin+ exclusive wine brands – Concha Y Toro and M. Chapoutier – have consistently featured in the top five of “The Most Admired Wine Brand In The World” awards. But with so many styles and labels on offer there is bound to be something that will satisfy the taste of every customer. Robert Louis Stevenson once said, “wine is bottled poetry”, and then (wowser) Oscar Wilde piped up with, “to recognise the quality of a wine, it is not necessary to drink the whole bottle”. At Vin+ you be the judge . . .

constant wining

TO HAVE OR TO HOLD Katrina valkenburg contemplates the dos and don'ts of bringing a bottle to a party.

Etiquette on whether to open (or not) the very nice bottle your guest has brought you or to hold in your cellar for yourself: Dear Amy, my husband and I have been trying to figure out the answer to a couple of questions: What is the proper etiquette when you are having friends over for dinner and someone brings wine? Are you supposed to open it? Save it? I’ve been on both sides of this one and have never known what’s the right thing to do. When I have people over for dinner, I’ve usually already chosen my wines based on what I’m serving and a rogue single bottle may not fit in. Am I being rude if I don’t open it? Or am I being rude if I run out of the wine I’ve chosen and I open the bottle brought as gift? Signed: Befuddled I’m not too hung up on etiquette of any description so the right thing to do, in my opinion, is dependent on what sort of occasion it is and who you are - is it a get-together with the girls or a formal, sit-down dinner? Are you a wine snob or a merely a lush? - If it’s the get-together with the girls, it would be very normal to open the gift. Having said that, there was one occasion when two of my girlfriends brought the same vin ordinaire with them and, being a self-confessed wine snob, I told them at the front door that they could take it home with them. ”I wouldn’t even cook with that,” I said rather rudely. • If it’s a formal dinner and I’ve chosen the right wines for each of the courses, then I would say thanks and save for another occasion. • If it is a very good and/or interesting wine and the giver was an enthusiast, I might write their name and the date on the label and try to invite them to a dinner at which I could serve it. Once upon a time I actually tried this idea. For my Hens Day I asked all


my girlfriends to bring a bottle of wine for the cellar, write their name and the date they thought it should be opened along with a complementary recipe. My promise to them was that I would invite them for dinner on or around the date they suggested and serve it with given recipe. All would have been well if the marriage had lasted . . . it didn’t, and nor did the great wine pairing idea . . . I just drank away my sorrows and have no recollection of when a particular bottle was opened and whether it was shared with a meal or even another person. • Likewise, when you take a bottle of wine to a friends house, you are giving a gift so you shouldn’t expect them to necessarily open it that night. It’s a GIFT. NOTE to SELF - If your host chooses to serve a wine of lesser quality than the bottle you have brought, as a gift, remember that as a GOOD guest you should not feel or act as though you are offended. If said wine snob does feel offended, she should remember to take flowers or chocolates next time. As long as you, the guest, aren’t actively helping yourself to wine that you’ve handed over as a gift, you’re on pretty safe ground as far as etiquette goes. Conversely, if you bring wine and your host opens it, remember that once it’s changed hands, it is no longer your wine. Thank them for sharing. Here are a couple of exceptions to the above: • If your guest has asked you if they can bring something and you suggest wine, and tell them what you’re serving so that they can pair it appropriately, you should serve their wine, even if you disagree with their selection. • If your guest has brought a bottle suggesting that it would be fabulous with the roast and wants you to open it next, they have crossed the line of no-no etiquette. However, what’s a bottle of wine between friends – if they’re good enough to have for dinner then the bottle of wine is too, no matter what you think of said bottle. Wine On! Amy is up to the challenge of answering any of your w(h)ine-based questions. All correspondence to: Katrina Valkenburg is a Wine Consultant, Educator and Communicator.

constant wining

coming down


Personally speaking I’ve always been a skeptic when it comes to high end ‘miracle treatments’ or any one of the ‘million dollar detox therapies’ that seem to be in abundance in any self respecting tropical epicenter of holistic wellbeing. But then after a serious run at this year’s high season party shenanigans and a cumulative hangover that snowballed into a rehab-sized condition, I decided to have a scout round for an instant fix. Skepticism deposited firmly on the counter alongside an exhausted bloody mary glass, it was time to get serious about feeling human again. Eschewing any medical benefits, a day-long deep-tissue, or Balinese massage, I might have opted for strong measures and started to look around for somewhere that might offer the sort of vitamin therapy that A-list party celebs around the world have been flocking to in recent years. Customised intravenous vitamin therapies are something of the latest craze amongst those looking for an instant health kick in the pants, and judging from the user feedback gleaned from the web there is a strong following from those who swear the benefits are worth the vein-jabbing. The 60-minute treatment sees the patient have a veritable smorgasbord of vital nutrients injected directly into the bloodstream,


boosting the immune system and turbocharging energy levels. Vitamin IV therapy is not a new revolution by any stretch – in the 1960s Ohio- based doctor, John Myers, treated depression, fatigue and jaundice with his recipe of core vitamins magnesium, D, B6 and B12. Nowadays it is entirely feasible to tailor your own cocktail to suit whatever need. In my case it was a mega blast of vitamin C, and the core mix of D, B, and magnesium composites administered after a brief consultation with the onsite medical practitioner. Any needle fear quickly evaporated once the treatment got underway in the halo therapy salt room, where Himalayan salt bricks line the walls reproducing the natural micro-climate of a salt cave with anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities. A little bit later I felt absolutely no different than I had done on entering, minus the small hole in my right hand. Actually I lie, I did feel a little groggy on the drive home, tired even, and more skeptical than ever about this in the latest of ‘instafixes’. About an hour after arriving at home I started to feel a bit odd, not in a negative way, but almost in a calming and comfortable manner, 20 minutes more and I started to feel good and it kept getting better until I fell asleep. Seven hours later and I felt the best I

had in months, possibly years. I was full of energy, and any lingering side effects from the month-long binge of booze-filled late nights and cholesterol heavy brunch ‘recoveries’ were but a fading memory - I felt magic. I was keen for another hit, I felt like Bradley Cooper in Limitless; the morning felt a million times fresher than I remember previously . . . I was in fine shape. I immediately made a note to book a followup session for two weeks hence – a suggestion made by the consultant during our chat, and at the time dismissed as a shameless attempt to upsell. I re-booked for a week after and got on the daily vitamin boosters in the meantime. Of course the effects started to subside within a few days but the combined effects of multivitamins, a week or so off the grog and a couple of re-ups in the spa clinic and I’m a new person – noticeably so, or at least I’ve been told. IV vitamin treatments are available in Bali . . . we go to Cocoon Medical Spa on Jalan Sunset Road for ours.

Tel: 0361 847 5997/ 0361 847 5930


susan hu gets wrapped up in the frontline of contemporary fabric design . . . italian chic meets traditional method. photos: lucky 8. Peruse any market in Bali and you will inevitably be inundated with an ocean of batik. From multi-hued sarongs to patterned handbags, men’s dress shirts and wall hangings, batik is a staple of the Indonesian textile tradition. Yet despite its ubiquity, the majority of batik apparel on offer just doesn’t seem to fit in with what one might consider a sleek and sophisticated wardrobe. Enter Quarzia, a chic boutique that takes the age-old tradition of batik and revolutionises it with modern designs and luxurious fabrics. Founded in 2004, Quarzia is a haven of contemporary clothing produced using traditional Indonesian batik dyeing techniques. The pieces in their collections are carefully handmade by skilled artisans who come from a background of batik production, and the designers use only the finest fabrics and high-quality dyes. The result is a range of fashionforward batik pieces that wouldn’t look out of place on the runways of Venice. The process of making batik is no easy task. Each piece must be made by hand, one at a time, and it takes considerable skill and concentration to produce an exceptional item. First, the designer must draw a pattern or image on the fabric and then apply wax with a special tool to the areas that are not to be coloured. The designer then dyes the entire piece of fabric or hand paints certain areas. When the dye is dry, the fabric is boiled to remove the wax, and the process may start all over again depending on how elaborate and rich the pattern and colour scheme are. Many of the batik designs created by the talented team at Quarzia are inspired by nature, with tropical flowers,

peacock feathers, Koi fish and undulating waves all making an appearance in the collections. Geometric patterns are also prominent, and the designers play with different shapes, lines and colours to produce visual effects that bring to mind the delicate veins of a leaf or the vibrant bursts of light and colour in a sunset. Shading and colour layering also come into play, which creates a soft and sultry effect on the already lush fabrics. Besides creating unique patterns that are modern and eye-catching, the designers at Quarzia differ from the usual batik producers in that they create classic cuts and styles that are both timeless and cutting edge. Silk dresses drape the body in figure-flattering cascades of fabric, seductive tops fall elegantly off the shoulder to reveal just a hint of skin, and loose, satiny pants feature clean lines that create the illusion of length and provide comfort and room to move. Head to the bright air-conditioned boutique on Jalan Oberoi to pick up flowing dresses, slinky robes and tops, breezy pants and shorts, lightweight scarves and chiffon skirts, all awash in brilliant hues and bold patterns. Quarzia also has a line of men’s clothing that features semi-formal and casual dress shirts, T-shirts, pants and shorts in light, airy fabrics that are perfect for the tropics. In addition, accessories include leather wallets, belts, bags, fashionable purses and colourful housewares like pillows and placemats. Tel: 0361 736644


coy koi.




natural reflections.


Only here three years and not a clue in the jewellery or fashion business, making a showing without anybody knowing – wait a minute, stop the press, he’s not yet 29. salvador bali meets franklin firdaus.

Okay Humble sponge, you’re on . . . Franklin Firdaus, born in Borneo, Balikpapan East, three brothers and three sisters, I’m number six. My mother was married at a very young age – 13 to be exact – my father from the east of Borneo and they met in the middle and fell in love. So my mother is a housewife and my father a fisherman who loved adventures, and he took his business to the next level, like what I’m doing at the moment. He never went to school. What's your schooling background? I have a diploma from Borneo in business management, and then in Jakarta for public relations – that was at the age of 16 to 22. I was working at the same time – in the morning, then college at night. Those jobs were in the automotive industry, with Volvo, my first career – two years – then a mining and oil company as a geologist, another two years, then – American and Australian communications. After a while I decided none of this was me. Would you elaborate? I was happy with what I was doing at that time. I made a great income. I learned a lot. I learned how companies work . . . many things I’ve never seen in my life and so in automotive, then in oil and then in I.T., three major industries . . . no regrets.


But obviously not you? No, not really. Fashion has been in my blood since I was six years old. It’s like, when my parents had an occasion they would ask me my opinion on what they should wear. So you give up your education – one-way ticket to Bali, win, lose or draw, here I come? Yes, my first year was exploring the island, not really knowing what to do. Strange but true, at least for me, I believe Bali chooses you – there’s no middle road, either you love it or hate it. If the island doesn’t like you it refuses you. How did you come into the fashion world? Doing little pieces for this and that, here and there, and my friend kept encouraging me, supporting and pushing me to do more and grow. Jewellery and bags and t-shirts etcetera, and so I tested the water, the water’s good and I’m living my dream now . . . that’s what I do. Will you be branching out, Jakarta, Singapore, other places? Yes, I just did my fashion show week in Jakarta, also in Singapore and did my photo shoot in Jakarta for online shops . . . worldwide to your door in just one click. So you have the big picture in mind? Of course, in the end, like many other international businesses we want to bring it to the next level on the big

platform. At the moment we’re expanding partnerships, fulfilling what the markets want, be it in Germany or anywhere we want to reach. Now with online and Internet, it’s like the world is in our hands. Are you pursuing a name as a fashion designer? I don’t know, I’m just loving what I do. I try to make the best for myself first . . . if people love it, I’m happy. So it’s not like you have to do this. It’s for myself first, that’s what I do. How would you describe your fashion line? Well it’s different, something affordable in the medium market. I don’t do mass production, mostly like beachwear, summery clean-cut, and daily life clothes, this is also a one-size unisex collection. Now we come to Selene Jewellery . . . The jewellery is a totally a different side of me – bringing out the feminine side – lending itself to the mediumto high-range market, mostly playing with the stones, playing with gold, playing with the details that go with the gown or party. Your personal philosophy on life? I don’t live in the past . . . I live now and just try to be a good person every day. Make your dreams come true, that’s the main thing. Do what you love and your going to love what you do. S.B.



Mkhanh is the name behind a growing fashion label – minimal, subtle, and rude. images: yasmin suteja


MKH, where are you from and what's your back-story? I’m French Vietnamese, raised in Asia and America. I’ve been a designer and stylist for seven years. How would you describe your style as a fashion designer? My label is creative, minimal, rude and subtle. What's the biggest change you've seen in the fashion world over the last 10 years? Just the volume of fashion. Every field has more and more people, entrepreneurs. Which is really exciting and crazy inspiring. Why did you start an online fashion zine that focuses on NOT wearing clothes? It’s not about not wearing clothes. It actually is a fashion photography magazine. I started it because I needed to see what people outside of Bali were thinking and doing. What kind of work and art they were creating . . . It’s the colour, the rawness, and femininity in Nude that inspired its name. What inspires your work? I draw a collection around a theme usually inspired by a place, an era . . . the style is inspired by people around me, friends, creatives, passers by.

What separates the truly great designer from the average? The greatest designers marked their time because they created clothes that echoed a culture or a social change. What's the worst thing about the fashion industry? The labels that just have bad taste. There’s no such thing as bad style but there is such a thing as bad taste. What's Bali's place in the fashion world? A lot of exciting brands and projects come out of Bali. It inspires a more modern and international fashion community than other place in Indonesia. And they export that to the rest of the world. It’s no longer only a production destination, it nurtures creativity as well. You're a mother. What's the best bit about that? There are too many things to say. Watching someone grow, learn, and change every day is pretty cool, it gives me perspective.

Previous page, left, and above: Mkhanh. Transparency: model Helene.



fashion freestyle











Bamboo Blonde Tel. 3640060






venting in a villa

ART OF LIVING Villa Bali Asri in Batubelig is a hideaway home from home for luxury seekers. Residents of this sunny island of ours could be forgiven for overlooking some of Seminyak’s more familiar attributes – the beach 10 minutes away, the variety of great restaurants, the proliferation of outstanding villas on offer… but it is in this last facet that the area lights up the likes of Trip Advisor and keeps Bali’s Western shores in the game for so many overseas visitors. Most of these villas are tucked away– like Villa Bali Asri in Batubelig, where an unassuming entrance leads to a complex of 12 modern properties surrounded by tropical gardens. Through the door and you are greeted with a nicely decorated open-plan living room that faces a good-sized pool and a balé in the corner of the garden. It very much feels like the kind of place where one could happily live full time. If it were home one wouldn’t complain about the size of the place: the bathrooms are huge and filled with light, and there’s a good-sized kitchen incorporated into the living area. You could of course choose to prep your own food here were you to be a full-time resident, but as a guest



there’s an easier option: a visiting chef who will arrive at your door at any preordained time and cook you breakfast, lunch and dinner, if you’re of a mind for some pampering. Should you wish to pursue such a course then it’s only a short hop to the property’s Japanese inspired spa. The beach and magical sunsets are a five-minute walk away and the yoga centre Desa Seni just a couple of minutes by car. Villa guests can also avail themselves of Villa Bali Asri Gym in Seminyak, part of a sister complex of villas in the hood. What sets this particular slice of paradise apart is the details incorporated into the villas, rendering each slightly different. This is mostly down to Villa Bali Asri’s novel concept of an original “art of living“. Ensconced in each villa, evoking an unprecedented intimacy, are rare works of Balinese art, paintings, sculptures, photographs and engravings. Making it feel even more like home.


palatial play rooms at (Clockwise from top left): The Stones hotel; The Mulia; The Mulia; Sheraton bali Kuta resort.


top-notch establishments & executive suites to keep the discerning content.

Mulia Resort The Mulia Group has introduced a new brand of luxury to Bali with the opening of its vast, interlinked, properties: The Mulia, and Mulia Resort & Villas,Nusa Dua in 2012. Already, they’ve made the Conde Nast Traveler Hot List Hotel 2013. Among Mulia Resort’s 526 rooms overlooking Geger Beach, the highest grade of accommodation are the The Duke Suites. The Mulia's luxury accommodation evokes a relaxed, yet polished, sensibility with lavish amenities, nowhere more so than single-bedroom The Duke (140sqm), entered through a private marbled entrance passage. High-ceilinged interiors – from which hangs a 22-karat gold chandelier – are sleek Asian contemporary, with classic refined undertones in gold and beige tones. The Mulia's sumptuous bespoke furniture and hand-sourced art and antique objets are featured here, such as carved antique headpieces and three-metre-wide sink-in bed, with indulgent 1000-thread-count bed linens, exclusively for The Duke. The expansive bathroom features a distinct "his ‘n’ her’s" configuration and Salvatore Ferragamo amenities. For panoramic ocean views, try the full-length stone patio, complete with dining table and sensuous sunken Jacuzzi with aquatonic water. The Duke guests are further indulged with private in-room check-in and a dedicated round-the-clock butler trained to the highest British standards, discreet housekeeping services undertaken by the resorts’ most trusted staff, and access to facilities at The Mulia and Mulia Villas – which other guests don’t get. Named The Duke for obvious “royalty” connotations might explain the “No-Kids” policy and potential guests are discreetly vetted prior to booking.

Regent Bali Sanur A Regent flagship property, the just-launched Regent Bali reflects a new direction of the regrouped prestigious Regent brand, promising uncompromising standards of service, timeless design and bespoke qualities. Within more than four hectares of landscaped grounds alongside Sanur’s golden sands, Regent Bali is the first international resort built in Sanur for four decades or so. There are 94 exceptional suites ranging in size and opulence, 25 Regent Residences plus top-notch facilities. The highest-grade suite is the ultra-luxurious Regent Beachfront Pool Villa (937sqm), the resort’s only beachfront accommodation and apart from the Residences, boasting its own private 130sqm pool. This signature two-bedroom villa is positioned beside the resort’s 50m infinity-lap pool, ensconced in private, walled gardens accessed by two private entrances and comprising two poolside glass-encased pavilions with a Jacuzzi sandwiched between. The first pavilion houses an ultra-contemporary dining/living space with kitchen, while the second pavilion reveals master and twin-bed guestrooms with lavish “lunar” bathtub and spa treatment room for inclusive daily treatments. Interiors accentuate neutral hues and bronze, copper and metallic finishes, while local natural materials include high-grade marble and native woods. Custom-made furniture, handcrafted fixtures and curated artworks add to the sophistication, while exclusive benefits and 24-hour butler service is at guests’ disposal. Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Kuta’s first international brand five-star hotel, the 203-room Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort opened in December 2012 opposite Kuta Beach and promenade.



With its recently unveiled Presidential Ocean Front Suite – a 265sqm, two-storey, stand-alone structure alongside Level 2’s resort pool. An elevated luxury bolt-hole, it’s rare for a Presidential Suite to be so close to the beach and street-front, but all part of the Sheraton’s “be seen,” “be sociable” attitude. The suite matches the Sheraton’s contemporary architectural design: glass-encased in uber-modern box-unit design with flat, grass covered roof. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide maximum bay and sunset views, and tropical rays streaming in (although blinds provide privacy). Interiors highlight modern Balinese aesthetics and sleek minimalist style, kitted out with premium materials like imported Italian marble and timbered floors. Downstairs features a dedicated dining room, fully equipped kitchen, and separate living area, well appointed with the latest hi-tech audio-visual systems. Beyond, a private sundeck provides lounge chairs and outdoor plunge pool – really “lording it” over Kuta. A staircase wrapped in opaque glass panels gets guests to an intimate lobby and one of two private entrances, plus two bedrooms with private balconies. The master bedroom provides exceptional sea views from its king-size Sheraton Sweet Sleeper Bed, connecting with a spa-inspired marbled bathroom. An adjoining Ocean View Suite can be blockedoff along with the Presidential Suite for extra guest capacity, while a customised service team is on-call to assist with guests’ every whim. St. Regis Bali Since opening in Bali 2008, Starwood’s ultra-luxurious brand, St Regis, has emerged as one of Asia’s premier beach resorts. St. Regis Bali exudes classic sophistication combined with modern luxury and impeccable service, yet – sprawled in nine hectares of tropical grounds beside semi-private beachfront in Nusa Dua – offers barefoot informality. Among three Premium Suites, the grandest of all them all is Grande Astor Suite (1,518sqm), located on the top floor of this five-star hotel. Two-bedroom Grand Astor epitomises gracious and opulent living presidential-style – offering a refined residential sanctuary and lavish entertaining space. Glittering chandeliers dangling in the vestibule (and elsewhere) set the tone, leading to Grand Astor Receiving Room. Similar to all St. Regis accommodation, striking interior designs reflect Asian and Indonesian culture . . . and furniture and décor comes individually crafted with indigenous materials and cultural artifacts.


The living room’s understated elegance of smooth brown woods and polished timbered floors features superior soft furnishings and fine art, including hand-painted murals of Balinese dancers. Entertaining is a breeze with the grand piano and silver-alloy-topped dining table seating eight, assisted by a fully equipped kitchen, 24hour St. Regis Butler Service, and the latest audio-visual technologies. A master bedroom and twin-bed second bedroom boast Italian Travertino Crema Antico marble bathrooms, where guests can indulge in a room-for-two, stand-alone bathtub, exclusive Remède amenities and handily positioned 14-inch LCD TV. A magnificent outdoor deck includes a private pool and dining area, supplying elevated (and private) views of palm trees and the shimmering Indian Ocean. The Stones Legian Bali Asia Pacific’s first Autograph Collection hotel by Marriott International, The Stones Legian debuted on Bali in 2012. Positioned back from the Legian Beach promenade, practically everything in this ultracontemporary urban sanctuary appears colossal. And among its stylishly appointed 308 guest rooms, is the jawdropper Presidential Suite that covers a whopping 1,827sqm on three floors. Within the hotel’s five-storey accommodation wing, the Presidential Suite is completely self-contained with a private sidelobby entrance – the swipe-card sliding door resembling something from a James Bond movie. Interiors ooze funky, retro-elegance and black/gold, Versace-style décor – one almost expects Doctor No or Austin Powers to pop up shaking the martinis. The cavernous ground-level reveals a library, TV theatre room, dining table seating 16, and lounge area equipped with the latest in-room entertainment systems, and a massive kitchen with its own service lift. Note the stuffed lions and tigers and oversized bronze-toned baubles hanging as the centrepiece lighting, which, along with the Hollywood-style staircase, links the ground and first floors. Upstairs, four bedrooms include the master bedroom – which should read “master playground” with groovy circular bed, mirrored walls, multi-jet bathtub, and hydrotherapy shower unit you could fill with a football team. The exclusive rooftop terrace is tailor-made for VIP soirees, and boasts a helipad (Legian’s first). No pool is provided, but if the VIP guests don’t mind “slumming it,” The Stone’s lagoon-style pool – again, ginormous at 3,000sqm – is perfectly adequate.

Clockwise from top left: St regis bali; The Mulia; The Stones;Sheraton bali Kuta resort.



MIND THE GAP It takes more than one primary colour to make a rainbow, and if you have read Laskar Pelangi (Rainbow warriors), you too might have sympathised with an Indonesian student’s struggle to gain an education, By Tracie Pascoe-Lark.

bridging the education gap.

So how does the Green School give Indonesian students a fair go in education? When I arrived at the Green School to meet with Ben, he was engaged in a multilingual explanation to the 40 or so guests who were taking part in the daily tour of the school. The tour vital for gaining donations for the Indonesian Scholarship Fund, but we also run a raw food cafe called Living Food Lab, yoga classes, as well as Freak coffee shop, all of which raise money for the Indonesian Scholarship Fund,” Ben says. Currently, there are 32 Indonesian (mostly Balinese) students attending the Green School through the Indonesian Scholarship Fund. “We also have fee-paying Indonesian families along with many nasi campur students who are half Indonesian”, Ben says. As strong as her bamboo legs may appear, to me, the Green School is like a foal, stumbling and tripping in the woods, overwhelmed by everything new, and trying to keep her head above water in this, for lack of a better word, vortex of sustainable education. You might have heard that the Green School now includes surfing as an extra study option? Gnarly. Green School students have the opportunity to gain academic accreditation through their passion for surfing, and the courses are being run in conjunction with Bali Learn To Surf Co., and are certified by The Academy of Surfing Instructors, Australia.


In June, the Green School celebrated its first graduating high school class. The event invited videos, letters and personal messages of congratulations, and well wishes from environmental leaders and peace activists such as co-recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize, Al Gore; entrepreneur, Richard Branson; UN Messenger of Peace, Jane Goodall; musican and peace activist, Michael Franti; and, actress and environmentalist Darryl Hannah. As cool as all of this sounds, it makes me wonder how effective will these skills gained from an experiential learning environment, prove to be for the new graduates entering the “real world”? Well, as quickly as bamboo grows, it does take some time to flower. “The Green Camp is also expanding, with students from countries such as Saudi Arabia or Australia, who come to us for custom programmes,” Ben says. “We run year-round camps, with a special focus on the holiday periods during summer, Christmas and Chinese New Year.” The idea of the Green Camp is that international students can learn skills in environmental sustainability, with a creative focus on the arts, in order to return home, and transfer these skills to their peers. The Green School thrives on community involvement. “We like to see Balinese culture threaded through our classrooms. Of course, we are careful about security, but in the afternoons, the grounds are open to the local Balinese kids who play soccer here and the school recently held a Saraswati ceremony on the grounds, which was a highlight for the local people and Green School community,” Ben says. August marks the month of celebration for the Green School martial arts and mud-wrestling event known as the “Mepantigan Festival”. “Eleven years ago, a Balinese man had a vivid dream about combining traditional Indonesian martial arts – Pencak Silat – with Tae Kwon Do. The next morning he acted on this dream, combining each of the martial arts and even went as far as including mud-wrestling and shadow puppets,” Ben says. Five years ago, the Green School invited him to share his newfound talent. Ben says: “We must be one of the only school’s in the world that has its own mud-pit – don’t worry, it’s organic mud and good for the skin!” As I was leaving the Green School, I stopped for a moment to watch the Balinese kids playing soccer. A tiny tot dribbled the ball up the field, fighting off a much taller version of himself before shooting for the goal . . . if sustainable and experiential education proves to have footprints as light and deft as the Indonesian students’ footwork on the Green School soccer field . . . goal!

sounds around

the mysterious mr harvey was once named by rolling stone magazine as one of The 25 DJs That Ruled The Earth. which is why stevie g interviewed him for the yak.

AS it’s your first time to Bali, what were your impressions of the island before arriving and how did they meet up with your experiences? Bali seemed like a faraway place of blue seas, wonderful surf, beautiful sunsets, palm trees and jungle that are all very exotic to an Englishman. And then upon arriving, I was first impressed by the proliferation of scooters and just how friendly and open everyone is and how we were automatically greeted with a smile rather than suspicion. How was your sunset gig at Potato Head? After traveling 24 hours from Venice Beach, California, where we live, to stepping off the plane and then straight to the gig I was a little bit tired. But turning up at Potato Head and walking across the grass to a mini round of applause from people who have flown in from all over it was really nice. It was great to be able to do my thing and play to a really warm, happy, and dance friendly crowd. You’re an avid surfer. Have you gone out in Bali? After arriving, playing the gig and decompressing a little bit, we finally plan to paddle out today to Old Man’s in Canggu. We also had a look at Uluwatu the other day, which was absolutely spectacular. After many years, you’ve finally been able to travel more recently. Are you glad to be out again, and what places do you look forward to playing?


It took me 10 years to work out my immigration status in America and now I have permanent residency the world is my oyster once again. I’ve toured extensively in the last couple of years to Japan, Europe, Brazil, Australia, etc., and I always look forward to voyages of discovery, which is what I am on right now here in Bali. I’m very happy and lucky to be able to experience the world as the modern equivalent of a traveling minstrel purveying my happy tunes. And hopefully I can keep on doing that. Travel and greater exposure have also thrust you in the limelight after decades of being considered more of a cult DJ. How do you feel about this newly acquired fame? Having been a DJ for 30 years, which has paid my rent for all that time, is great and I feel very lucky be able to make a living through my art, which I consider the definition of success. You don’t have to own a Ferrari but if you can get your rent paid through doing your art, then you’ve pretty much done it. You are known for your extended sets that last for hours. Why such long sets? I think that if you’re playing for a long period of time you get to tell a story rather than just put on an initial sonic show, which tends to happen with sets under two hours, which is more of a paragraph than a book. With

the extended sets I get to play a wider range of music with more emotions, more movement, as well as with a beginning, a middle, and an end to your performance. What was the most influential live performance you attended? One of the most influential was probably Motorhead, The Damned, and Ian Dury and The Blockheads around 1978. I also remember seeing [Washington, DC go-go band] Trouble Funk in the early ‘80s and that was also phenomenal. Any current projects you’d care to mention? The latest project I’m working on is called Locusollus, which is myself, my engineer Josh Marcy, Sam Fox and Tara Selleck, as a modern techno/disco band out of Venice Beach, California. We put out a successful debut album last year and are releasing more tracks soon After DJ-ing for this long what do you think you’ll be doing in 10 years time? I’m having a great time zooming around the world playing records to nice people and hanging out in fantastic places. It would be nice to have a secret hi-fi disco temple somewhere in the South Pacific but otherwise, I plan to keep on producing fun music and travelling the world purveying a good time. Love is the message!

5 3

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film 190

JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI (2011/2013 David Gelb)

Perfection and standard definition aren’t the best of bed buddies so much rejoicing was in order when the 2013 high definition transfer of this beguiling 2011 documentary landed this year. In short this is a wet kitchen dream for foodies of all persuasion and particularly for those that nurture a passion for sushi in all its forms, yet beneath its culinary exterior lays an incredible journey into the psyche of a relentless perfectionist, a tireless student and one of the most joyously fulfilled human beings ever captured on film. Documentary maker David Gelb has captured 85-year-old sushi poet and restaurateur Masuhiro Yamamoto in his element. In a small ten-seat restaurant in an anonymous Ginza district, Tokyo office basement is Sukiyabashi Jiro, the world’s finest sushi restaurant. No appetizers, no pamphlets (you may take a business card), reservations are taken upwards of two months in advance, you eat using your hands and you most certainly don’t request additional shoyu or wasabi. We are talking fifteen courses in twenty minutes, each morsel selected to pass the counter at precisely the peak of its natural condition, to be consumed immediately. It is precision dining and the reason why he has attained and retained three Michelin stars. This is the embodiment of culinary perfection realised and its taken Jiro dubbed ‘the sushi poet’ over 75 years of sixteen-hour days to get there.

Gelb dives into Masuhiro’s world with a cautious and studied dignity, his fascination with the subject demonstrated through interviews with noted Japanese food critic Yamamoto Masuhiro, present and previous apprentices who have worked under Jiro’s demanding 10 year training regime, suppliers, celebrities (Joel Robuchon makes a somewhat emotional appearance) and Masuhiro’s sons who have, themselves, become noted restaurateurs and chefs in their own right. It is this medley of characters that offer the best insight into the work of the master himself. The title of the film itself may seem somewhat whimsical, but it is actually intended to be taken seriously and literally, “in dreams I have grand visions of sushi”, says Masuhiro, the pursuit of which is the real essence of Gelb’s work here, is it possible to achieve perfection? Do we chase perfection or the illusion of success in the modern world and ultimately what is the cost of this grand pursuit? What we as the viewer end up witnessing is the recording of a beautiful extinction, a compelling and raw portrayal of greatness in passing in an era drawing to a close. The final lingering scene on the subway train is worth the price of admission alone. A deeply profound, funny and heart wrenching film that provokes and rewards in equal measures. Sublime.

JOBS (2013 Joshua Michael Stern)

Steve Jobs is a perfectionist, but not a nice person, he uses and disposes of people as if they mean nothing, like they are toilet paper, he is a taker of the worst kind. It’s a great premise for the first of many to follow biographies on the late Steve Jobs, but unfortunately the script never challenges this initial perception of the Apple co-founder and ultimately comes off as a disjointed and pointless celluloid excursion that swiftly disintegrates into a biopic on warring managerial factions within the corporate swirl of the world’s most beloved technological brand of fruit. It’s not all negative, for an easy-to-watch fluffy dissection of the world of computer geniuses and the lifestyle empires they went on to champion, this is a passable effort by Stern, Kutcher, Gad, Modine et al. The problem is that we are ready for and deserve a proper exposé of Steve Jobs; we want the gloves-off, unflattering, edgy and stark portrayal of a man that mastered the PR spin yet we all know was a monstrous entity behind closed doors, we expected to stare slack jawed into the mouth of madness and instead were served up a bedraggled and lackluster Ashton Kutcher who phoned in his performance of the already well documented ups and downs of Steve Jobs being booted out of, then rehired by the company he kick-started from his garage in the 1970s. The film opens in 2001 with the unveiling of the first generation iPod before skipping back some 30 years to Jobs in Portland, skipping classes, wandering around campus barefoot, dropping LSD and jaunting off to India to ‘find himself’. Things

threaten to look up when we see his return to the States and a brief stint at Atari but before long we’re locked into boardroom battles and high power hissy fits as stocks are liquidated, tempers flare and the moneymen move in. The pivotal second act of the film centres on the 1984 launch of the Macintosh and the ensuing power struggle with his then CEO John Scully (a well-envisioned Matthew Modine) and the rest of the board that ultimately grow tired of Jobs’ megalomania and oust him from proceedings. What we miss out on is any real exposé into the relationship that Jobs built with cofounder and geek extraordinaire Steve Wozniak (Josh Gad) which would have been a far more insightful and rewarding use of the two hour runtime of Jobs. Wozniak himself has been a very vocal critic of this effort by Michael Stern, even to the point of discrediting the film as a work of fiction passing little resemblance to what actually played out in the corridors of Cupertino. Kutcher, whilst fully immersed in his role does little to convince the audience that he has become Steve Jobs and ultimately leaves the real work to the supporting acts. What materialises is a film that reveals next to nothing for those that may be interested in gleaming knowledge of Jobs’ personal and complicated private life, it’s a popcorn ride into mediocrity and a wholly unsatisfactory celebration of one of the 20th Century’s most admired creative entrepreneurs. For now you’re better off investing time and money into Leander Kahney’s excellent unauthorized biography ‘Inside Steve’s Mind’ – surely a book that should serve as the script base for a future cinematic effort.

DIANA Perpetual Surrender Jagjaguwar/Paper Bag Records

There must be something in the water in Toronto at the moment with the number of quality bands on the radar – leader of the brat pack is throwback, shoegaze outfit Diana, who have been making waves internationally for the last few months with some promo tracks off their first full release, Perpetual Surrender. Think grand synthesizers, seductive icy rave vocals from Carmen Elle, swirly hypnotic beats, and enough layered sax to make you think you’d just landed on Baker Street circa 1991. London based IDM producer/plastician Kieren Hebden has been championing them and contributed a remix to the title track off the album, worth seeking out in its own right. Torontonian summer shoegaze goodness . . . dive in.

Blludd Relations Deek Recordings


BOARDS OF CANADA Tomorrow’s Harvest

KORELESS Yugen EP. Young Turks

The cliché of ‘perfect pop music’ applies to this side project of Nathan Jenkins and Jesse Hackett. Jenkins being the man known as Bullion – one of the most incredibly talented producers to breakthrough the UK music scene in recent years and Hackett, who has been a permanent fixture in countless bands from Elmore Judd to the Gorillaz (as touring keyboardist) and the excellent Owiny Sigoma Band. What we get with Blludd Relations is a kooky, humorous and incredibly upbeat album that is quite literally pop music perfected. Standout tracks are the Hammond infused Playing For You and creeping Air-like subfunk of Tape R D Leg, but you’d be hard pressed to find anything in between that doesn’t put a broad smile on your face. It’s unique, heartfelt, and most definitely not for the Billboard Top 40.

Ex Radio One and Talkin’ Loud head honcho Gilles Peterson delves deep into his bag of out there funk and soul to bring us the 10th installment in the Brownswood Bubblers series. Named after the tiny independent label Peterson now helms, and with roots very firmly in the jazz and new wave leftfield soul genres, Brownswood provides a platform for breakthrough talent and underground musicians. What we get with volume 10 is more of the good stuff with offerings from the likes of Werkha, Dean Blunt, Bambooman, Philip Owusu and ESKA. Fans of Peterson’s Worldwide radio show and festivals will already be familiar with a lot of the names in the Brownswood series but for the rest of us it’s a great introduction to tomorrow’s wave of new artists and emerging underground music at its finest.

Scottish brothers Michael Sandison and Marcus Eoin may well be the most elusive men in the world of music. No interviews, no pre-album launch hype, no live gigs, in fact no news of anything much BOC for eight years and then Tomorrow’s Harvest lands in time for summer and we forget about listening to anything else much for three months. The spooky creeped out hip hop drones of their seminal 1998 release Music Has The Right To Children is all but gone but the intensity of Geogaddi is ever-present in fits and bursts and the anxious paranoia of a new era of government surveillance and edgy industrial darkness consumes the listener. Owing more to obscure John Carpenter-esque soundscapes of the '70s, Tomorrow’s Harvest is a timely statement of unsettlement and unease. Definitely headphone music.

Glasgow wunderkind producer Lewis Roberts delivers one of the sparsest releases this year with Yugen (in Japan Yugen is the core appreciation of beauty and art). There’s hardly any beat structure to the tracks, instead we get a crude, simplistic structure where the music is reduced to only its most essential elements. What we find is an emotive, atmospheric and subliminally uncompromising voyage into minimalist euphoria. At only five tracks and 20 minutes in length this is structured to be listened to complete, from start to finish. Whilst Yugen is very much an EP built around a single idea of deconstruction, the sum of its parts carry the weight of its ambition and any lack of variety is quickly countered by moments of undeniably beautiful restraint and soaring nostalgia.



moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | | | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

Always in the background with a snarling sound is this Pluto/Uranus energy offering sudden transformation and enlightenment on one hand, and sudden powerful crisis on the other. On top of that background, the part that we can see, is the energy during the next few months. It is a risk-taking time both for individuals and for governments. One miscalculated risk now can have disproportionate effects. One lucky risk and we can become awake and enlightened.


An absolutely creative time for you. Many twists and turns as you, by trial and error in the moment, find the best path to take, the best tool for the job, the best solution that no one thought of before. Good time to come closer to the beloved. Possible conflict with children or authority. You get a good idea during this time and then you are busy getting it done. The environment becomes unstable around you. Good idea not to follow the herd, but to rely upon your own intuition.


Not only work will set you free, but struggle will keep you healthy. It is a Saturn transit opposite Taurus, which will last a couple of years. Saturn isn’t a fun energy, but it is a necessary one. It is like the bones for the body; it holds everything else together. It provides a structure to hang your bioplasmic pieces of meat on. It is a good energy for concentration, practicality, and getting things done. It is able to make a goal far into the future and to make the plan to get there.


It is a good time to not work so hard and to just go with the flow. Paradoxically, the more you do this, the more likely it is that money will happen in your life. Money comes in many ways and nose-tothe-grindstone is just the way that is most obvious and predictable. Yours now is more about just plain good luck. This same Jupiter energy in your Second House is also about your values in your life and yours is about taking care of people and being sensitive to them. We are all lucky in having you as a friend.


I have never seen so many paradoxical energies going on inside one person my whole life. You are like an ocean with high waves where all kinds of currents, all opposing each other, are meeting and mashing and melting in the chaotic cacophony of turbulent surf. Not a problem. The world is always this way. It is just that you are more open and sensitive to it now. You are more aware. You are more expanding. You are on the path of wisdom now and that path can only come through the emotional field. Wisdom comes from the heart, not the head.



Faster than a speeding bullet, it is Super Leo time. Mars transit in Leo energises your life. Leo is the source of all energy and now you have more. Yahoo. You can use this energy for trips, for sports, or to get things done. It is also a time that can be quarrelsome with arguments or conflicts. You tend to be impatient and maybe not so tolerant with other people. You can be a little self-centered and not so sensitive at this time. Competition and being first is good for you now.


More thinking than doing. “You think too much”, Zorba the Greek said, “clever people and grocers, they weigh everything”. You are thinking, thinking, but still not coming to conclusions. The knee bone is connected to the thighbone and on and on it goes. You are thinking, thinking, but not much is getting done. The energy is just not there until the end of October. This is a good time to turn the thinking into communicating and to be with all the friends coming your way.


Very probably you have been avoiding conflict most of your life in order to maintain harmony among people. Now is a Uranus time in your life where you recognise that each person must be true to his/her own individuality, and that will scatter people on the high road and the low road and conflict is inevitable. What you have to contribute to people is the ability to have conflict with respect, to have conflict with charm, and ultimately to have conflict with love. This is your gift.


This is a time when it is your way or the highway. You have a plan, you have a method, you have the motivation, you have the personal responsibility, and it is not a good idea for those less knowing than you to interfere with that. You are determined and you are putting a lot of energy into your goals and no one knows better than you how to achieve those goals. Some struggle is good for the achievement. If what you are doing was easy, you would be bored. That is why you chose this way.

sagittarius At this time in life, the Truth is what you do. You have searched and searched for truth

in your life through books and teachers and debates and adventures in this land and that and now it has all ended up inexpressible with no proper nouns to put a form on it. So if it is inexpressible with words, then it must be done with deeds. Truth is what you do and what you have been doing is searching for Home. Truth is where Home is, and Home is where you find the Truth. Home is something to be felt, not imagined.


Well, into every life, a little rain must fall. This period of time over the next three years is more like a typhoon or tsunami. It only happens once a lifetime, but it is enough to revolutionise and change your life forever. You have always been a realistic person so I don’t have to pull any punches with you. This Pluto/ Uranus transit will take you to the core of your being. You are not a superficial person. You have always been looking for the core of your being and this is the energy that will get you there.

aquarius It takes all types to make a world and you are well known for being the most tolerant of many of them. You appreciate individuality in yourself and in others. There is a difference between individuality and self-centeredness, however, and it is this type of person that you may have conflict with during this time. Just at the time that you are assuming more and more responsibility in the world, you are confronted with those who are not. This too shall pass in a couple of months. pisces The material world is not for you now. It is the people world that matters. It is love and relationship that matters. You are not of the mind, you are of the heart. You are not the tight fist of possession, you are of the heart. You are not of the ego, you are of the heart. Through relationship now you will understand the meaning of the highest universal principles of existence and by cleaning out your closet you will understand things you have been hiding from yourself. Be at peace.

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EVENT ORGANISER Plan A Yak Directory Page 3 Pro Motion Events Tel: 287250 com Page 193 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Christophe Coiffure Salon Tel: 738025 Yak Directory Page 9 Yak Map W.10 Glo Day Spa & Salon Tel: 738689/282826 Yak Directory Page 5-6 Yak Map Y.10 Think Pink Nails Tel: 9188116 Yak Directory Page 11 Yak Map Q.3 Semara Spa Tel: 8476661 Page 145 Yak Map O.5 Spoiled Tel: 8475141 Yak Directory Page 8 Yak Map G.1 HOSPITALS/CLINIC ARC Tel: 754645, 750982 Page 163 Yak Map G.10 Siloam International Hospital Tel: 779900 Page 187 Yak Map F.11 Sunset Vet Tel: 754881 Yak Directory Page 2 Yak Map E.7 HOTELS & VILLAS Ayana Residence Bali Tel: 702120 Page 15 Ayung Resort Ubud Tel: 9001333 Page BIC Batu Karang Lembongan Tel: (0366) 5596376


www. Page 112 Elegancia Villas Page 4 Yak Map R.7 Four Seasons Resorts Tel: 701010 jimbaranbay Page 31 Harris Hotel Bukit Jimbaran Tel: 8468777 Page 122 Komune Tel: 3018888 Page 24 Mantra Nusa Dua Tel: 8465750 Page 27 Oazia Page 12 Yak Map S.1 Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort Tel: 815900 Page 18 Yak Map U.1 Regent Hotel Tel: 3011888 Page 29 Semara Seminyak Tel: 8476661 Page 145 Yak Map O.5 Semara Uluwatu Tel: 8482111 Page 145 Sentosa Villa Tel: 730333 Page 36 Yak Map O.6 Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Tel: 8465555 Page 151 Yak Map D.12 The Akmani Legian Tel: 3009191 Page 153 Yak Map V.16 The Mulia Bali Tel: 3017777 Page FIC Town House Tel: 8850577

www.seminyaktownhouse. com Page 6-7 Yak Map U.14 Uma by Como Tel: 978888 Page 149 W Retreat & Spa Page 37 Yak Map O.4 MEDIA / PRINTING Indonesia Printer Tel: 021 6618501 Page 191 MISCELLANEOUS Alexa Private Cruises Page 12 Dragoon Tel: 7855 855 Page 23 Yak Map G.11 Patra11 Patent Tel: 888916, 7878811 Yak Directory Page 8 Simpson Marine Tel: 087862244053 Page 14 Third Millennia Health Tel 737317 www.thirdmillenniahealth. com Yak Directory Page 7 Yak Map Z.15 PROPERTY Elite Havens Tel: 731074 /738747 Page 1 Yak Map P.8 RESTAURANTS & BARS Baba’s Tel: 4736576 Page 49 Yak Map N.6 Balique Tel: 704945 www.balique-restaurant. com Page 11 Biku Restaurant Tel: 8570888 Page 149 Yak Map O.5 Bistrot Tel: 738308 Page 11 Yak Map T.8 Blue Restaurant Tel: 737898 Page 143 Yak Map T.12 Cafe Bali Tel: 736484 Page 189 Yak Map Q.7 Charlie Bar & Restaurant Page 51 Yak Map U.3 El Kabron Tel: 7803416 Page 147 Finn’s Beach Club Tel: 8482111 Page 145 Gelato Secrets Page 153 Hu’u Restaurant, Club & Bar Tel: 4736576 Page 49 Yak Map N.6 Kayu Manis Tel: 705 777 Page 125 Khaima Tel: 735171 Page 113 Yak Map Q.8 Ku De Ta Tel: 736969 Page 3 Yak Map N.8 LV8 Hotel Tel: 894 8888 Page 43 Yak Map J.2 Mejekawi Tel: 736969 Page 3 Yak Map N.8 Merah Putih Tel: 8465950 Page 41 Yak Map O.4 Mozaic Beach Club Tel: 4725796 www.mozaic-beachclub. com Page 21 Yak Map K.2 Oazia Spavodka Page 12 Yak Map V.3 Salt Tapas Bali Tel: 737675 Page 36 Yak Map O.6 Shiro Restaurant Tel: 731343 Page 47 Yak Map Starfish Bloo Tel: 4738106 Page 37 Yak Map O.4 Sundara Tel: 708333 sundara.bali@fourseasons. com Page 31 The Junction Tel: 735610 Page 143 Yak Map Q.7 Wah’s Restaurant Tel: 736585 Mobile:+62 818349809/ +62 81338722838 Page 195 Yak Map N.8 Woobar Page 37 Yak Map O.4 VIN+ Page 35 Yak Map O.7 SHOPS 69 Slam Page 17 Yak Map T.7, V.9, V.10 Bamboo Blonde Tel: 730450 Page 50 Yak Map S.8, U.11 BeachGold Tel: 737549, +62 81338017256 Page 2 Yak Map S.8 Biasa Tel: 730308, 8878002, 0217182322 Page 89 Yak Map V.12 Body & Soul Tel: 732325 www.bodyandsoulclothing. com Page 28 Yak Map V.13, V.14 By The Sea Tropical Tel; 8446530 Page 45 Yak Map V.12 Deus Ex Machina Page 18-19 Yak Map O.8

First & De Page 123 Yak Map N.5 Goddess of Babylon Tel: 739146 Page 125 Yak Map O.8 Havaianas Page 79 Yak Map Y.9 Kapal Laut Jewelery Page 112 Yak Map T.14 Milo’s Tel: 8222008, 731689, 735551,778912 www.milos-bali com Page 10 Yak Map O.8 Paul Ropp Tel: 774906 Back Cover Yak Map T.8 Plaga Wine Page 155 Quarzia Tel: 736644 Page 5 Yak Map O.8 Grammes Jewelry Tel: 731562/283861/769555 Page 113 Yak Map U.10 Sababay Winery Tel: 261104 Page 13 Seafolly Page 25 Yak Map Y.9 SKS Page 39 Yak Map T.8 Sunbrella Tel: 021.52897393 Page 191 Swoon Gallery Yak Directory Page 5 Yanvan Indonesia Jewelry Tel: 731093/978513 www. anvaninternationaljewellery. com Yak Directory Page 4 Yak Map V. 9



Favourite sunset spot please: Uluwatu Temple Best coffee in town: Tutmak in Ubud Favourite shop/brand concept in Bali: Tegun Gallery in Ubud Favourite beach: Uluwatu again Where to head for a long weekend: Gili Air On the weekend you’ll find us: On the beach in Sanur When our friends are in town we take them to: Bedugul, Jatiluwih, Tabanan If we weren't in Bali we’d be in: Venice, Italy Favourite spa: Hyatt Hotel Favourite fashion designer: Besti, my Uluwatu Lace’s designer Favourite live music band: The Traffic Blues Band Best event: Closing concert of Bali Spirit Festival Favourite resort/hotel/villa in Bali: Segara Village and Santrian in Sanur Best hair stylist: Glo Spa What’s on your iPod at the moment: A few chill out playlists Cocktail of choice: Frozen Margarita, Money’s No Object... Where do you go for dinner: Kori Restaurant in Kuta Favourite airline: Singapore Airlines What Bali brands have you got hanging in your wardrobe: Uluwatu Lace (of course!) and shoes from Niluh Djelantik What Bali brands have you got in your kitchen cupboards: Wendy Thomas for Kevala and Jenggala Guilty pleasure: Homemade ice cream Last watched: Fashion TV Last read: Bali Post What Bali VIP cards do you have in your wallet/purse: None Who do you most respect in Bali: My parents Green fingers: Yes, my small hibiscus plant has 50 buds Which charities do you work with: Biwa, Bali International Women's Association What sport do you do in Bali: Bodyboarding What would you like to see more of and less of in Bali: More coconut trees from the old village of Kuta, fewer big buildings Favourite interior designer: Sonia Jenia Budhiarti If you were Governor for a day you would: No thanks, being a Governor is not for me! Amen.

Profile for The Yak Magazine

The Yak #40  

The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia's fashionable playground.

The Yak #40  

The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia's fashionable playground.

Profile for theyakmag