The W - The Big Fashion Issue

UNSUNG HEROES:

EDITOR’S LETTER

As a young girl growing up in East London, I didn’t plaster my bedroom walls with pages of fashion spreads I’d ripped out of magazines and stack issue after issue of Vogue in my room like my counterparts, because it just wasn’t a world I knew existed.

Sure I’d always been a “creative” — it ran in the family. My mother was a master seamstress who once had big dreams of making it as a designer. The eldest of my two younger sisters also wanted to try her hand at design, whilst the other dreamed of creating films in Hollywood. My brother was the most incredible visual artist and also dabbled in music too. I, on the other hand, was a self-acclaimed storyteller by the time I was old enough to understand how to string a sentence together.

When it came to fashion, I suppose I’d always had a sense of style, though unbeknownst to me at the time. I remixed my school uniform daily; hemming my skirt far shorter than Tom Hood’s rules allowed, and ensuring my white shirt was always tucked outside of my jumper. The finishing touch was my signature camel coloured trench in which I’d replaced the original belt which tied around my waist, with a black waist belt from New Look or Primark.

My first real taste of fashion came when I got hired as a sales girl for Debenhams’ Oxford Street flagship for Christmas. It was here I learned my creativity spanned more than just storytelling after discovering my love for visual merchandising. I then went on to discover my love for the crop top after being hired at River Island in Westfield London, and I worked my way up from savvy sales girl on the retail floor to head office when JOY the Store hired me, aged 21 to be responsible for 31 JOY retail stores, speaking directly to their floor managers and supervisors via telephone each morning and ensuring they were open on time, were aware of their sales targets for the day and had enough staff cover.

By the time I’d hit 24, after working my way through all my “dream” fashion houses and companies, I was restless. I couldn’t stay in a position longer than 6 months to a year — not because I was incompetent or got fired, I was actually pretty good at what I did, I just wasn’t fulfilled and so as quickly as I got myself into a new role working for companies many girls my age would have killed for, is as quickly as the “shiny new job period” wore off, and I began my quest for a new role, not being able to shake the feeling of wanting more.

Now, 6 or so years later, fashion to me was about creating opportunity. This edition was now the 6th fashion issue I’d published since becoming an editor back in 2020. Over the years, I’ve had some of fashion’s greats on the covers. Everyone from THE fashion authority herself Caroline Rush, the CEO of British Fashion Council, who had over the years changed the British fashion landscape to Marigay McKee, former Chief Merchant at Harrods and President of Saks Fifth Avenue, who to date, was still probably one of my favourite interviews.

Trish Halpin, formerly of Marie Claire; Lorraine Candy, formerly of Elle UK; FROW fave and Wonderland editor-in-chief Toni Blaze; Jessica Rich, Claire Henderson of Oh Polly, Conna Walker, who I’d watched over the years take her Stratford flagship global.. the list went on.

Then there were the burgeoning fashion founders, creatives and designers.. the new faces, the disruptors and door knockers that weren’t satisfied with the industry as we know it and wanted to make their mark. The new faces that just needed someone to bank on them and give them a platform to share their stories, to have a voice, to send the ladder.. I was willing to be that someone, because I wouldn’t have gotten here if someone hadn’t done the same for me.

Each fashion issue was for a young girl or boy, just like me, who had no idea the industry was for them. It is one thing not to have any opportunities open to you, but it is quite another not to have the knowledge or exposure to know there is a whole world that exists outside of what you know.

The Unsung Heroes issue is full of stories and testimonies throughout. My only wish is that as you read through this very special edition, you’re able to dream.

Love,

Phadria Prendergast

EDITOR IN CHIEF

EVERY ISSUE

pg. 04 Editor’s Letter

pg. 10 The Contributors

ON THE COVER

pg. 24 The Shoe Maven: Tinamaria Crewdson’s Journey to Creating TinaMariaShoes

pg. 16 Bonifique: A Fusion of Tennis and Timeless Elegance

FEATURES

pg. 30 GeeGee Collection: Reviving Artisan Craftsmanship for the Modern Woman

pg. 140 Lorena Cordero: A Fusion of Art, Emotion, and Fashion

pg. 34 Roshan Jewels: Redefining Expression Through Earrings with a Heart for Giving Back

pg. 38 Redefining Modern

Fashion: How Mantle 2020 is Quietly Revolutionising Timeless Style

pg. 42 Parisian Elegance

Reimagined: The Art of Benedicte de Boysson

pg. 146 BIG HORN Eyewear: Crafting Style and Innovation in Every Pair

pg. 46 Deon Smith: From Pediatrician to Pioneer in Sustainable Jewelry Design

pg. 50 The W Fashion Week 2024 Cohort

FASHION

pg. 118 Fashion Week: The Report

pg. 14 The Reality of Being a Black Model: If You Want to Get Booked You Must Cut Your Hair

pg. 138 Fashion Week is Finally Realising Comfort Doesn’t Kill Style; and the Data Proves it

pg. 144 The Human Element: How Fashion Week Designers Use Personal Narratives to Connect with Audiences

pg. 22 Influencing Then and Inspiring Now, Indian Muses in Fashion pg.34

Contributors

Joshua Pasquale

Just relocated to London with three suitcases of his best clothes and a dream, Joshua Pasquale was born in Canada but seasoned by the fashion of London and Paris. A multifaceted fashion stylist and writer, Joshua thrives on runways, luxury retail boutiques, and personal shopping experiences. His love for fashion as a tool for transformation reflects Canada’s diversity, with a mission to elevate style while revealing the authentic self. Whether it's blending into any occasion or standing out, Joshua’s approach to fashion radiates confidence and individuality.§

Sahira Dharamshi is a freelance journalist and founder of wellness platform A Blog For Days where she strives to increase awareness about wellness and mental health. Her writing has been featured in various publications including The Sandy Times, Harper's Bazaar Arabia online, Raemona Magazine as well as The Wellness Division. She currently also writes for an international development magazine.

Natasha Sackx is a 3rd year Fashion Styling and Creative Direction student at Istituto Marangoni Paris, where she is completing her BA. She loves all things creative, ranging from abstract to reality on topics varying from art to writing. Sackx has worked backstage in many PFW’s and continues to broaden her abilities. A highly motivated student, Sackx is set on graduating among the top of her class, and working towards her goal of celebrity styling.

Esha Lalwani

Esha Lalwani is a New York-based communications specialist, passionate about the art of visual and verbal storytelling. She graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology with a Bachelor’s in Advertising and Marketing Communications; and with a unique perspective, a creative spirit, and an unwavering drive, Esha is dedicated to forging connections and crafting innovative narratives.

Natasha Sackx

Sahira Dharamshi

C.I. Atumah is a writer who loves beauty and fashion. In her new blog series So Far, she’s spilling beauty secrets while her other writing spans poetry, fiction and non-fiction.

Miranda Heinrich is a writer, journalist, and poet based in the Southwestern United States. She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion and Supply Chain Management and loves to carry her multidisciplinary and multicultural background to her writing (she speaks Mandarin as well). Passionate about fashion, pop culture, music, sustainability and food, she aspires to be a full-time writer in one of these industries but is happy just getting to tell the stories of those around her. You can find her poetry @nervouslittletitles on Instagram.

Emily Duff is a culture journalist focusing on making the fashion industry more accessible to diverse audiences. As the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Darling Magazine, she oversees a growing global team, curating content that highlights inclusivity, sustainability, and the intersection of fashion within wider topics like film and social change. With a BA (Hons) in English Literature from a Russell Group University and multiple London Fashion Week accreditations from the British Fashion Council, Emily is dedicated to creating conversations that push inclusivity and education.

Emma Trimboli is a freelance fashion writer who specialises in social media trends, fashion guides, and style breakdowns. When she’s not scouring TikTok for the latest -core or thinking about her never-ending wishlist, she enjoys walking around London and trying new cafes.

C.I. Atumah

Emma Trimboli

Emily Duff

Miranda Heinrich

Varnika Thukral

Varnika Thukral is a budding journalist, a literature enthusiast and subculture debunker hailing from India. Currently pursuing her graduation in journalism, she's a poet as well as an anime enthusiast who has a knack for ranting and scavenging for hidden gems.

Zita Salum, a British, Tanzanian journalist with a London heart, is making waves in the world of media. Born and Raised in Hackney London, she discovered her passion for storytelling at a young age. Zita's ability to craft compelling narratives and her knack for capturing the essence of a story led her down the editorial route. Zita has contributed to a diverse range of publications showcasing her versatility as a writer. Her expertise spans across industries such as music, corporate, political, sports, arts, and fashion. Beyond her written work, Zita has also excelled in broadcast journalism.

Bosè Erinmwingbovo

Bosè Erinmwingbovo is a model, writer and a photographer. She loves visual arts, animals and philosophy, the human experience is her medium and her soul is her compass.

Ria Keswani is a dynamic fashion enthusiast and recent high school graduate who has chosen to take a gap year to enhance her profile and explore her passion for the fashion industry, specifically on the business side. She thrives on projects that creatively stimulate her, allowing her to connect with her true self while planning and executing innovative ideas. Ria’s long-term goal is to become a brand manager for a fashion company, where she aims to convey the company’s vision and values through her unique perspective.

Zita Salum

Ria Keswani

The Reality of Being a Black Model:

If You Want to Get Booked You Must Cut Your Hair

An account by Bosé Kaylia

In the past 4 years since after the Black Lives Matter Movement diversity and inclusion have been the fashion industry's favourite buzz words. Though we have moved into a new era since the early 2000’s runway seasons Anok Yai and Adut Akech have created spaces for the new Black Supermodel to flourish! With a new lane to thrive there are still tight restrictions to what blackness is and how it can be expressed and showcased in high fashion. Even though the Diaspora has many faces, hair lengths, and skin tones, the new Black supermodel typically has South Sudanese roots and short hair.

Picture this: a Nigerian-American girl from California, whose beauty icons were not only Tyra Banks, Aaliyah, Yaya Dacosta, Kelly Rowland, Rihanna, and Naomi Campbell but also her mom and cousin who rocked a new hairstyle every week. From a red bob to black and green braids, the women I grew up around never shied away from experimenting with their looksSeeing them

has always influenced me. I feel a strong connection to my hair and I am the definition of “You're not depressed, girl, you just need your hair done”. I have tried blonde curly braids, short black pixie cuts, brown hair, lavender straight hair channelling my beauty icons since I began modelling in my teen years.

Now picture this same girl at 18 getting scouted on Instagram, starting her international modelling career in Toronto and was told to come to the agency to take digitals with no weave, no braids, just her natural. At that time I had a complex relationship with my hair—I felt that my natural hair was too big, too thick, and not beautiful enough to see a modelling agency.I was scared and nervous. I remember thinking to myself "Well, they're definitely not going to sign me after this", but I obliged. That self doubt was quickly turned into pride as the agent’s proclaimed to each other, “Look at her hair texture, it's beautiful.”

In that moment, their comments single

handedly shifted my viewpoint of Black beauty, something that had been heavily politicised in the media for as long as I can remember.It was a sigh of relief that my natural hair was seen as beautiful by model agents. Wouldn't they know beauty when they saw it?

The same girl is now a bit more mature and seasoned in the modelling world, but still has many goals. She has modelled in Milan - one of the cities she always dreamed of working in - she has opportunities with dream brands, worked in South America, also has made a name for herself in her beloved Los Angeles,California and now was more determined than ever to get her footing in London. In the other cities, like Milan, Los Angeles and Buenos Aires her natural afro and braids had always been enough. Why would it be any different in London, a city that she had once visited before and immediately fell in love with? The vibrancy of the youth, the diversity of food, fashion, and aesthetics made it seem like a pot of

all amazing spices where everyone was accepted.

At her arrival, though, her expectations were crushed by a rejection like she had never experienced before. The determination, the willpower to succeed and make my dreams come true superseded all the practical feedback I was receiving. So when my current agent had an offer to advance my career in the way I wanted, I was incredibly excited! The one catch was that I had to cut her hair off—my agent had sent me photo inspirations of current top models like Adut Akech. She made a practical point: “Do you see any of the luxury fashion houses booking Black girls with big afros or braids, like yours? There is a lack of hair diversity in this industry and if you want to work you have to comply.” Her statement can be confirmed by a quick glance at social media.Every black model that was working in the spaces that I wanted to, that was getting booked by luxury fashion houses, and excelling in her career had short hair. The issue of inclusivity plagued not only the older fashion houses, but also the newer ones, the ones one would expect to be disruptors and push the needle when it came to diversity and inclusion in modelling.I quickly agreed to do it, as I wanted to secure my opportunity. Willingness to do and be what everyone wants of you is seen as a valuable attribute in this industry, and I was acutely aware of that.I thought I could get away with just a trim, and shrinkage would do the rest of making my hair look short. I sent over photos to my agent and she immediately responded with, “Bose’ please cut your hair, ( another girl in the same agency) had to cut her hair and look where she is now...” I had seen this girl at castings in Milan and within the year or so her career had been undeniably more successful. By attempting the "trim trick" I had left myself with very little time, as my hair had to be gone by the following day.So, with the help of a friend who was visiting from California, I got paper scissors and started cutting. I kept cutting until I looked like the girls my agent showed me,

then asked my friend to help even it out. After seeing how short it was, I immediately realised "I can't get braids for a while now," and my heart sank.

It was not so much the sadness of cutting my hair but the sadness that I was forced into a box to be “successful.” What I admired the most about other models was our ability to be uniquely ourselves, an ability that I felt had gotten me far in life. I was still that little girl from California, but my career had taken me to unimaginable places.I felt like I was compromising my expression to be someone I was not, in the name of material success. After I cut it, I cried. I did not feel beautiful

even though photographers, clients and agents kept saying how much they loved it.

The reality of trying to break into the four fashion capitals is that when you commodify your body and appearance, turning yourself into an object, your feelings and selfperception simply don't matter.

This story is just one of many models, some that you see on runways today, who were forced and cornered by their agency to oblige to the industry's limited acceptance of Black beauty. Despite the fashion industry's superficial progress on diversity and inclusivity, this is still the reality for many dark skin models.

Bonifique:

A Fusion of Tennis and Timeless Elegance

By Phadria Prendergast

Anastasiya Halaburda, the visionary founder of Bonifique, has cultivated a brand that seamlessly blends the world of luxury travel, tennis, and vintage charm. As a former professional tennis player who started playing at just eight years old, Anastasiya draws inspiration from the courts she played on and the exclusive spa resorts she frequented throughout her travels.

When asked about the inspiration behind her designs, Anastasiya shares, "Tennis aesthetics during Grand Slam tournaments, along with the stunning courts across Europe, have greatly influenced Bonifique. My designs are also inspired by

the privileged lifestyle of luxurious travel, spa retreats, and vintage styles from the 60s to the 80s." This combination of sport and classic vintage beauty defines Bonifique’s unique approach to fashion, offering pieces that exude both comfort and elegance.

Bonifique represents a unique blend of aesthetic principles and high-performance design. From its origins as a boutique travel company, Bonifique has grown into a fashion house celebrated for its luxurious yet functional sportswear and lifestyle collections.

In a world where many fashion brands tend to mirror each other, Anastasiya stands out by staying true to her vision of creating designs that go beyond just trendiness. "Many brands follow the flow of fashion, but

few stand out by offering something extra — comfort and high quality," she says. For her, fashion is about being unique, diverse, and expressing personality. This mindset is evident in every Bonifique creation, where the emphasis is on authenticity rather than conformity.

Her personal style, much like her brand's ethos, revolves around sport chic — a relaxed yet sophisticated style that allows for comfort during travel and leisure, without compromising elegance. Anastasiya describes her design process as "always a creative mess with a touch of team genius," a sentiment that reflects her team’s passion and commitment to delivering exceptional pieces to their customers.

Given her background in tennis, it’s no

surprise that the sport plays a central role in Bonifique's identity. Anastasiya proudly points out that several notable tennis players, including Aslan Karatsev (ATP ranked 14th), Yahor Yatsyk, and Dinara Safina (former WTA World No. 1 and Olympian), have sported Bonifique designs at prestigious tournaments such as the US Open and Wimbledon.

As for dream collaborations, Anastasiya mentions Maria Sharapova and Casper Ruud as athletes she’d love to see wearing her designs, reflecting her admiration for both their talent and style. The list of Bonifique ambassadors is equally impressive, featuring elite players like Anna Smolina, Daniil Ostapenkovv, and the Bokarev brothers. Bonifique’s aesthetic blends classic vintage elegance with a modern twist, catering to athletes and travelers who appreciate a balance of performance and refinement. "We track the sport chic trend closely and strive to offer something special to our athletes and travelers," Anastasiya explains. This philosophy is embedded in every garment, where carefully sourced fabrics ensure both comfort and durability.

"Our sports fabrics are primarily sourced from Malaysia, known for their highperformance qualities, while our knitted fabrics come from prestigious manufacturers in Turkey and Europe. We always seek out the softest, highest-quality materials to

enhance the travel and sport experience."

Bonifique’s designs are deeply rooted in a classic aesthetic, borrowing from the “old money” style that has recently regained popularity. With each photoshoot, Bonifique ensures its items stand out. Whether it’s a sports suit photographed against a backdrop of an Italian-inspired bar or a tennis uniform on the prestigious Wimbledon courts, the brand merges timeless elegance with modern flair. "We always try to show details in each of our items, whether it’s through photo locations or the fabric’s craftsmanship," says Anastasiya. Bonifique’s latest summer collection, for example, was inspired by Wimbledon’s pristine aesthetic, where players wear all white, a symbol of tennis' deep-rooted tradition and luxury.

Like any entrepreneur, Anastasiya faced challenges when launching Bonifique. "The high costs and the need to attract investment were my biggest fears," she admits. But through perseverance, she has successfully built a brand that resonates with athletes and travelers alike.

Since starting her label, she has learned invaluable lessons, the most important being, "Always think about your customers' needs and comfort first." This customer-centric approach is at the heart of Bonifique’s success, with every piece designed to meet the demands of both performance and leisure.

When Anastasiya isn't immersed in fashion, she enjoys traveling and spending time with her family, particularly her young daughter. "At the moment, I'm fascinated by discovering hidden gems around the world, which I incorporate into my designs," she says. Her love for exploration and culture informs her collections, ensuring that Bonifique remains fresh, diverse, and inspired by the world.

As for young designers looking to break into the industry, Anastasiya offers sage advice: "Think about what’s best for you, your family, and your friends. Put your heart into what you create and resist following the crowd. Be unique and diverse."

It’s a philosophy that has driven her success and made Bonifique a brand that celebrates individuality, luxury, and the timeless charm of sport and travel.

With an eye for detail, an unwavering commitment to comfort, and a passion for tennis, Anastasiya continues to build a brand that allows her customers to feel confident and stylish, whether on the court or while traveling the world.

Influencing Then and Inspiring Now, Indian Muses in Fashion

By Varnika Thukral and Ria Keswani

Asian sewing practices and layering are foundational grounds for fashion. From Harajuku styling as practiced in Japan to the modern-day runways drawing inspiration from the same to headgear, face-framing, veils and gowns taking inspiration from northern Asia, Asia is all about leading with an example. Quoting, historical references, practices and ways of narration, South Asia does not fall far behind and off the loop.

From shaping major fashion choices in the history of Britain and redefining the quality of luxury, Indian fabrics and weaves as well as prints had the world hooked. Then and now. The luxe designers of today retrace the rich catalog of practices from back in the day to bring surreal collections on the ramps. For example, in High Summer ‘22, Dries Van Noten pays homage to block painting. A technique practiced prominently in Rajasthan inspired the collection bustling with flora and sunsets. Van Noten’s collection celebrates the art of pressing engraved wooden blocks onto quality fabric producing whimsical arrangements for the summer. Locally worn in the northern region with airy overlays of kurtas and intricate sarees, block-painted dresses have long established themselves as a classic to every Indian designer as well as summer closets globally.

If you’ve been eyeing the Beige Sunshine mini tote from Fendi just like most of us, let us make you travel to the place where jute accessories take shapes and forms, thicker knots and braids to serve range. And yes, we’re talking about South Asia. Collections from Zouk have had Indian celebrities revisiting the store. Local craftspeople in various parts of the country craft jute bags for lunch boxes and satchels for events, making jute craft but an everyday story for anyone living there. Now with the want of more labor-intensive and greener options on the go, brands like Zouk invite exclusive prints for day-to-day fashion as essentials. If occasion and quirkiness gets you pumped up, wait until you’ve explored smaller brands like A Local Tribe which cater to the theme and widen the horizon with subtle modifications. Essentials from Amala Earth are the ones to live for with their mere interpretation of quiet luxury and sustainable lifestyle reflected in everything they design.

Vibrancy has always been a highlight of Indian bits of palettes, designed and curated specifically for a tropical helm of garments while catering to a diverse range of skin tones. In such a manner that the composition of the cloth permits breathability while the look flatters rather than wear or wash out the individual wearing it. Fashion as described from this angle is both minimalist and maximalist depending on the occasion, which in India are numerous. With various festivities and signature robes designed specifically for each festival, one is bound to run out of breath but not the options to choose from. Naturally dyed and hand-embroidered garments invite a certain playfulness to the cloth. Take for example the catalog at PAPA DON’T PREACH by Shubhika which takes maximalism a gear further to awe-spiring outfits and accessories with their vibrant color swatches for their designs. Redefining modern fashion by taking cues from traditional roots and birthing something extraterrestrial, this one has sent the Desi Bratz into a frenzy and is in for world domination.

ancient wisdom with modern innovations, traditional practices like handloom weaving are inherently sustainable in nature due to their low energy consumption. Similarly, the “Khadi movement” during the pre-colonial period was a setting stone for sustainability. And Khadi as a brand is the definition of luxury. With custom wooden footwear layered with khadi cloth on the exterior to a staple kurta from the collections every season, we’re talking more than just a cloth, a legacy.

Now, keeping the techniques and the designers aside, did you know that 73% of Gen-Z consumers prefer sustainability when it comes to consumer habits and sustainability is the highest priority in Fashion right now? But guess who’s been practicing it since before there was a need for it emerged or rather before it became a “trend”, India. The culture strongly believes in sustainability with every household cloth recycled in shape or form. While on a world scale delivering about 95% of the world’s handmade textiles, India's approach to sustainable fashion is deeply rooted in its cultural heritage. Combining

Be it the past, present, or tomorrow, India has never failed to reinvent and create jewels and attire like how their ancestors would. Influencing the fashion globally in one format or the other. The country has always been a contributor and bookmarked location on the global fashion map. Now more so ever. Expanding wide beyond geographical confines the craft has bled into collections presented in New York’s everchanging diversity, in Italy’s exceptional craftsmanship, in London’s avant-garde creativity and in Paris’s timeless luxury. Announcing, “We are everywhere and we are proud of it.”

the SHOE MAVEN:

By Phadria Prendergast

Tinamaria Crewdson is the owner, CEO and designer of her eponymous luxury footwear brand, TinaMariaShoes, which she launched in 2017. Her early fascination with the magical and empowering qualities of Dorothy's ruby red shoes from "The Wizard of Oz" movie sparked her passion for creating the TinaMariaShoes brand. This love for shoes, combined with her talent for drawing, led her to pursue her lifelong dream of becoming a shoe designer. Born to ItalianAmerican parents, Crewdson felt a strong connection to her Italian heritage and sought to infuse this heritage into her craft. She studied bespoke shoemaking in NYC and has her designs produced by a boutique luxury shoe factory in Italy.

Q: You mentioned having an eye issue as a child. Can you share more about that experience?

A: Yes, as a little girl, I had crossed eyes from birth. The doctors told my parents that if I didn’t undergo surgery, I would risk seeing double for the rest of my life. However, the surgery also carried the risk of blindness, which made it a difficult decision. My

parents waited until I was around five to find the right surgeon. Between the ages of five and seven, I had three surgeries—two on my left eye and one on my right. Afterward, I had to wear eye patches for several days, which was really scary for a child. When the patches came off, my parents wanted me to see something beautiful as a reward, and they chose The Wizard of Oz. Watching that movie, especially Dorothy’s ruby slippers, had a profound impact on me. I told my dad, who was an artist, that I wanted to make shoes for people when I grew up.

Q: That’s such a unique inspiration! How did this lead to your passion for fashion, particularly shoes?

A: The Wizard of Oz sparked my fascination with shoes. To me, shoes have always been empowering, much like how Dorothy's ruby slippers gave her courage. I remember picking out shoes for school and how important that was to me. It made me feel like I was putting on something special, something that would make me strong, even as a little girl who looked and felt different because of my eye patches.

Q: Did you face any challenges because of your eye condition?

A: Yes, it was tough going to school with patches on my eyes. I wouldn’t say I was bullied, but I definitely faced teasing, and it made me feel different. My left eye still isn’t perfect today—it can wander if I’m tired. But I never let myself feel sorry for my condition. My parents were wonderful in empowering me and helping me see that I had strengths beyond what people might notice on the surface. That mindset carried me through, and I always felt like I had something special to offer.

Q: You initially wanted to pursue a career in fashion, but you ended up in the beauty industry. Can you talk about that transition?

A: Yes, not going to fashion school was hard for me. It was my dream, but financially it wasn’t possible at the time. I had worked since I was 15, and I always knew the value of hard work. So, I found a career in the beauty industry at an upscale salon, where the owners treated me like family. I thought, “I’ll work, make money, and eventually go to fashion school.” But life had other plans—I got married young, had children, and ended up a single mom. Although I stayed in the beauty industry for a long time, I never gave up on my dream of fashion.

Q: Do you think it’s possible for women to have it all—career, family, and personal dreams?

A: Absolutely! I believe if a woman wants something, she can have it, but it requires belief and hard work. I’m a big believer in the law of attraction and personal growth. If you envision your life a certain way and work towards that vision every day, anything is possible. I loved raising my children, and

that was my priority then, but I never gave up on my dream. Now that they’re grown, I’ve returned to my passion for fashion, and I’ve made it happen.

Q: At what point did you start asking yourself, “Who am I, and what do I want?”

A: That came around age 38, after my divorce. I went through a lot of selfreflection and therapy, asking myself what was wrong in my life and what I could do to change it. I realized I was at a stage where I knew what I didn’t want, which helped me figure out what I did want. I didn’t want to live with regret, so I kept my dream alive and worked towards it. That’s when I truly started to understand who I was.

Q: Society often pressures people to have everything figured out by their mid-twenties. What would you say to those who feel they’re running out of time?

A: I think that’s a myth. At 38, I felt like I was just beginning to figure things out. My grandmother, who lived to be almost 105, always said that wisdom comes with age. I believe life is about evolving, and you don’t have to have everything figured out by a certain age. You’re constantly growing, and that’s something to embrace.

Q: Your grandmother sounds like a strong influence in your life. How did she inspire you?

A: She was incredible. My grandmother, Martina Rose, was an Italian immigrant who worked as a seamstress while raising a family and enduring a lot of personal loss. Despite her hardships, she lived a vibrant life, always dressed beautifully, and had an unwavering positive outlook. She was a mentor to me in so many ways, and I’ve always admired her strength and grace. I think of her as a shining example of what it means to live with resilience and purpose.

Q: What does success mean to you?

A: Success, to me, is about being happy with who you are, being grateful for what you have, and accepting the things you can’t control. It’s about making your dreams come true while being kind and good to others along the way. I believe in paying it forward—when I achieve success, I want to help the next person, just as others have helped me. Success is not just about what you achieve for yourself, but how you lift others up along the way.

Q: You’ve mentioned women who have influenced you. Are there any other women you’d like to credit for helping you along your journey?

A: Absolutely. Besides my grandmother, my mother, and Joy Warner, one of my mentors from the beauty industry, played a huge role in shaping who I am today. Joy treated me like a daughter and groomed me in many

ways, not just in my craft but also in how to carry myself as a woman. She passed away a few years ago, but I think of her often. Lastly, I have to mention my daughter. She’s a strong, successful woman in her own right, and I like to think that perhaps, in another life, she was my mentor too.

Q: What’s your personal definition of empowerment?

A: Empowerment is about knowing your worth, owning your strengths, and never dimming your light for anyone. It’s important to be strong, to shine, and to inspire others to do the same. Women should never feel the

need to downplay their brilliance or success. We all have something special to offer, and I believe it’s crucial to let that light shine brightly for the world to see.

Q: Is there anything else you'd like to add?

A: I’d just like to say how grateful I am for the opportunity to share my story. I hope that it resonates with others and inspires them to chase their dreams, no matter the challenges they face. My tagline for my business is "Every step intentional, every move powerful," and I believe that speaks to my journey and how I approach life.

GEEGEE COLLECTION:

Reviving Artisan Craftsmanship for the Modern Woman

COLLECTION:

Launched in 2019 by British-born designer Georgie Crossley, GeeGee Collection is redefining contemporary womenswear with its unique blend of luxury craftsmanship and bold, bohemian spirit. Each piece in the collection—whether a flowing dress or an intricately embellished accessory—is entirely crafted by hand, showcasing the brand's commitment to creating one-of-a-kind garments that are as refined as they are expressive. With fabrics meticulously hand woven in Italy and France, and garments expertly crafted in the UK and EU, GeeGee Collection radiates a sense of timeless elegance and artisanal excellence.

Central to the brand's identity is its focus on sustainability and ethical production practices. By using only the finest materials and working with skilled artisans, GeeGee Collection ensures that each piece is not only visually stunning but also environmentally conscious and socially responsible. The brand is now set to expand into home decor, introducing handmade cushions that mirror the same craftsmanship and quality seen in its fashion pieces, further solidifying GeeGee Collection as a purveyor of timeless, artisanal luxury.

Since its inception in 2019, GeeGee Collection has stood out in the crowded world of fashion for its commitment to handcrafted, artisanal quality. Founded by British designer Georgie Crossley, the brand focuses on creating unique luxury womenswear and swimwear using fabrics that are handwoven by skilled artisans in Italy and France. Crossley's dedication to slow fashion and traditional craftsmanship sets GeeGee Collection apart from the fast-fashion industry, offering garments that are more than just clothing— they're wearable works of art.

For Crossley, fashion is about expressing individuality through bold prints and unique fabrics. "Everything I design is handmade," she says. "The fabrics are handwoven, bringing back traditional artisanship, as opposed to mass-produced fast fashion from the Far East." This ethos is the cornerstone of GeeGee Collection, where each piece is carefully crafted to ensure it's both beautiful and oneof-a-kind.

The journey began with outerwear—bold, statement-making coats and jackets designed to bring a splash of personality to any outfit. The brand’s success with these pieces led to the expansion into other areas, including dresses, trousers, and more recently, swimwear. Crossley continues to push the boundaries of her design by blending unique fabrics, such as silk coupe with metallic accents, into versatile pieces like her current favourite, the circus cape. "It’s striking, you can wear it to the beach or on a night out—it’s truly versatile," she notes.

At the heart of GeeGee Collection is

a commitment to sustainability. Each item is designed and made in small batches, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. Crossley works on a non-seasonal basis, which allows her to avoid the pitfalls of overproduction while keeping pieces in the collection as long as they remain relevant. This approach has resonated with her customers, who value the timeless quality and exclusivity that GeeGee Collection offers.

Crossley's journey into fashion began with her studies at the University of Manchester and an internship with Alexander McQueen, followed by work at Jenny Packham, where she honed her skills in embellishment design.

However, her experience working in a factory in China, producing for major American brands, was a turning point. Witnessing the large-scale, impersonal nature of mass production motivated her to create a brand that valued quality over quantity.

Looking ahead, GeeGee Collection is poised to expand its swimwear line, building on the success of its circus-inspired collection, which features intricately designed fabrics embellished with metallic threads. "I’m focusing on unique fabrics, with no plain swimsuits—they all have something special about them," Crossley says. This dedication to creating distinctive pieces will ensure that GeeGee Collection continues to stand out in a market increasingly dominated by fast fashion.

As Crossley reflects on her journey, she offers advice to aspiring designers: "Start small, even while working a full-time job. Save enough to create your first samples, and take the risk. I wish I had started sooner." With a brand rooted in tradition, quality, and innovation, GeeGee Collection is set to continue its path as a leader in sustainable, artisanal fashion for years to come.

ROSHAN JEWELS:

Redefining Expression Through Earrings with a Heart

JEWELS:

Heart for Giving Back

In the thriving heart of Muscat, Oman, Roshan Jewels emerged in 2022 as a beacon of elegance and expression, thanks to the vision and creativity of sisters Samah and Rajwa Al Rawahi. Specializing in statement earrings, Roshan Jewels is not just about adorning women with unique, bold pieces; it’s about celebrating individuality while making a positive impact on the world.

Roshan Jewels focuses on encouraging women to celebrate their individuality through unique earring designs. The brand is committed to supporting global education initiatives for women and girls, donating a percentage of profits from every sale. So far, they have donated 300 school bags to support girls' education in Zanzibar and the Philippines.

Their jewelry is crafted from the finest sterling silver, gold-plated sterling silver, and precious gemstones such as freshwater pearls, red quartz, morganite, green agate, and black onyx. These pieces are stylish, well-crafted, and versatile enough for everyday wear or special occasions—all at an affordable price point.

Samah Al Rawahi is the co-founder of Roshan Jewels and the elder sister of Rajwa Al Rawahi. She holds a degree in Media and Communications from Purdue University, USA, and a master's in Digital Media from the University of Southern California. Samah oversees the brand’s marketing, branding, and communication efforts, including managing its social media presence. Her expertise in digital media and communication strategies has played a key role in establishing Roshan Jewels as a recognizable and respected name in the jewelry industry.

Rajwa Al Rawahi, the other co-founder of Roshan Jewels, graduated with a Bachelor of Science in Finance and minors in Economics and International Business from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, USA. Rajwa focuses on finance, budgeting, and product development. Her strong financial acumen

ensures the brand operates efficiently, while her understanding of international business helps guide Roshan Jewels as it expands into global markets.

Both sisters collaborate on concept development and jewelry design, combining Samah’s creative vision with Rajwa’s strategic planning to produce unique, elegant pieces. Their partnership merges artistry with precision, delivering designs that reflect their shared passion for jewelry. Together, the Al Rawahi sisters have built Roshan Jewels into a brand that caters to a wide range of customers. Their complementary skills and dedication to craftsmanship have made Roshan Jewels stand out in a competitive market, offering not only beautiful jewelry but also a story of sisterhood and shared dreams.

Beyond their business, Samah and Rajwa are committed to giving back. They have pledged a portion of Roshan Jewels' profits to support global education initiatives for women. This philanthropic effort reflects their belief in the transformative power of education and their desire to contribute to positive social change. Through their business success and social responsibility, they aim to empower women and create lasting impact.

The journey of Roshan Jewels began with a love for jewelry, fostered by the sisters' mother during family trips abroad. These journeys inspired them to seek out one-ofa-kind pieces, with a particular fondness for earrings. "Whenever we'd travel, we'd go to local jewelry stores, always looking for unique pieces. We loved earrings and often talked about how different gemstones or designs could make them even better," Samah recalls. It wasn’t long before friends

and strangers began noticing their choices, asking where they found such stunning pieces.

Fast forward to the COVID-19 pandemic, and the sisters found themselves at a crossroads. With the world in turmoil, they decided it was the perfect time to turn their passion into a brand. "We didn’t want to live in a ‘what if’ situation," Rajwa explains. "So we thought, why not start our own jewelry brand? If it works, great. If not, at least we tried."

But Roshan Jewels is about more than just creating beautiful accessories. The Al Rawahi sisters are deeply committed to giving back, especially to causes that uplift young girls. "We believe that if you educate a girl, you educate a whole nation," Samah says. The sisters have put this belief into practice by donating a percentage of their profits to support girls' education. Recently, Roshan Jewels donated 300 school bags to girls in Zanzibar and the Philippines, marking the beginning of their philanthropic journey.

Their bond as sisters plays a crucial role in the success of Roshan Jewels, with each complementing the other’s strengths. Rajwa, a finance major, manages the business side, while Samah, with a background in communications and media, oversees branding and marketing. When it comes to designing their jewelry, however, they collaborate seamlessly, drawing inspiration from their travels, conversations with friends, and their rich Omani heritage.

"Designing is something we do together. I come with my ideas, and she comes with hers, and we brainstorm," Samah shares.

Their synergy has resulted in earrings that not only reflect current trends but also resonate with their customers. "We design for ourselves, for people who are like-minded. If we wouldn’t wear it, we don’t make it," Rajwa adds.

Despite the brand’s early success, the sisters remain humble and committed to growth. They are both juggling fulltime careers—Rajwa dreams of one day becoming a pastry chef, while Samah is pursuing a career as a diplomat. Yet, they pour their hearts into Roshan Jewels, dedicating weekends and evenings to building their brand. "It’s not easy, but Roshan doesn’t feel like work because it’s our baby," Rajwa says.

Their family plays an integral role in the business as well. Their mother helps manage orders, their father handles international deliveries, and their younger brother takes care of local orders in Oman. "It really takes a village to manage Roshan," Samah laughs. "Our family’s support has been invaluable." Looking ahead, Roshan Jewels is gearing up for its biggest milestone yet— participation in Paris Fashion Week in September. The brand will be launching

its first collection of statement necklaces, an exciting new direction that the sisters have been working hard on. "We’ve designed a really cool collection for Paris Fashion Week, and we’re super excited to launch it," Rajwa reveals.

As they continue to build their brand, the Al Rawahi sisters remain steadfast in their mission to create impact. Their dream is to one day fund a girl’s college education through Roshan Jewels. "We started small, with school bags, but my ultimate goal is to send a girl to college," Samah says, eyes gleaming with hope.

When asked who they’d love to see wearing their designs, the sisters aim high. "I’d love to see Queen Rania in our pieces," Samah muses, while Rajwa adds, "I’d love to see Princess Rajwa wearing them—she has my name after all!"

Roshan Jewels is more than a brand; it’s a celebration of expression, sisterhood, and social responsibility. With a vision that blends luxury with purpose, Samah and Rajwa Al Rawahi are on a mission to not only make women feel beautiful but also to make the world a better place, one pair of earrings at a time.

Redefining Modern Fashion:

How Mantle 2020 is Quietly Revolutionising

Timeless Style

Dan Kallos, the founder and creative director of Mantle 2020, embarked on a unique journey into the world of fashion from an unexpected starting point. While working in the buying department at ASOS in 2019, Kallos played a pivotal role in designing a collection that soared to success, igniting the spark to launch his own brand. Despite holding a background in psychology and a master’s in fashion management rather than formal design training, his extensive experience in PR, styling, retail, and buying—gained at prestigious companies like Dunhill and Harvey Nichols—gave him the tools and insights needed to carve out his own niche. It wasn’t until relocating to Glasgow to be with his wife that the idea of Mantle 2020 truly took shape. Immersed in the luxury retail world while working at END Clothing, Kallos became captivated by the idea of "quiet luxury," drawing inspiration from brands like Fear of God and John Elliott. His vision for Mantle 2020 was clear: a brand that offered cohesive capsule wardrobes, each piece designed to be timeless, high-quality, and crafted in the UK. After four years of meticulous planning, Mantle 2020 was officially launched in May 2023. Since then, the brand has been featured in Vogue and Vanity Fair and has found its place in

Wolf & Badger stores, both online and in New York. Kallos, who recently showcased at London Fashion Week on September 14th, as part of the Oxford Fashion Studios production, is quickly emerging as a founder that not only delivers luxury but also paves the way for fresh talent outside the traditional London fashion scene.

Dan Kallos, founder and creative director of Mantle 2020, is redefining modern fashion by focusing on timeless, understated luxury. Unlike many designers, Kallos aims to create looks rather than individual pieces, carefully crafting capsule collections that seamlessly blend together across seasons. "Everything I design is meant to be worn together," Kallos explains. "Each collection references the previous ones, allowing you to mix and match wardrobes from different releases." His vision is simple yet profound: fashion that remains relevant for decades, with each piece designed for longevity rather than fleeting trends.

The idea for Mantle 2020 first took shape during Kallos' time in the buying department at ASOS. While working on a successful collection for another brand, he realised that he could create something of his own. Although Kallos holds a background in psychology and a master’s degree in fashion management, his extensive experience in PR, styling, retail, and buying at companies like Dunhill and Harvey Nichols laid the

foundation for his journey into fashion design.

Inspired by the concept of "quiet luxury"—a style defined by quality materials, impeccable fit, and a minimalist aesthetic— Kallos envisions Mantle 2020 as a brand that offers complete wardrobes rather than individual statement pieces. “Quiet luxury is the only trend I really vibe with,” he notes. “No logos, no loud prints—just a focus on fit, material, and the drape of a garment.” His inspirations include Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo and John Elliott, both of whom share his passion for understated design.

Kallos chose the name Mantle for its historical and symbolic meaning. “A mantle is a garment that royalty used to pass down through generations, symbolising something timeless. It also represents your pride and joy, the piece you display on your mantelpiece,” he explains. Though he initially aimed to launch the brand in 2020, the process took longer than expected, with Mantle 2020 officially debuting in May 2023. Despite the delay, Kallos emphasises that rushing the creative process was never an option. “I’m not the kind of designer who puts something out unless it’s 100% perfect.”

Beyond his designs, fashion serves as a personal outlet for Kallos. “I’m quite a reserved person, and fashion allows me to express myself without saying anything,” he reflects. This same philosophy drives his brand—clothing as a medium for selfexpression that instils confidence and

comfort in the wearer, which, in Kallos’ eyes, is the ultimate luxury.

While Mantle 2020 is rooted in timeless design, Kallos is quick to acknowledge his inspirations. He cites Kanye West's Yeezy Season 1 runway show as a defining moment, a collection that embraced muted tones and logo-free designs, which proved that fashion could speak volumes without being loud. Another key influence was Fear of God’s collaboration with Zegna, a partnership that blended tailoring and streetwear in unexpected ways. “You can see how both brands influenced each other,” Kallos notes. “That blend is something I really admire.”

Mantle 2020 has already made significant strides, with features in Vogue and Vanity Fair and a presence in Wolf & Badger’s New York store. As Kallos prepares to showcase his designs at London Fashion Week, his ultimate goal remains clear: to create a global brand that continues to grow while staying true to its ethos of timeless luxury.

What’s next for Mantle 2020? Kallos hopes to expand his retail presence and see his designs in stores worldwide. For him, there’s nothing more satisfying than seeing someone, whether a footballer or a stranger on the street, wearing his pieces. "Every time I see someone in my designs, it’s a pinchme moment,” Kallos says. His journey is far from over, and Mantle 2020 is well on its way to becoming a staple in the world of quiet, understated luxury.

Parisian Elegance Reimagined:

The Art of Benedicte de Boysson

In 2018, Benedicte de Boysson embarked on a journey that would blend her aristocratic French heritage with a modern, global sensibility, culminating in the launch of her eponymous jewellery brand. Specialising in exquisite, limited-edition pieces crafted from 18kt gold, diamonds, and hand-carved coloured stones, de Boysson has carved out a niche in the world of high jewellery. Her signature creations—particularly the Long Sautoir Necklaces—embody the essence of quiet luxury, reflecting an everlasting elegance that is both timeless and versatile.

Rooted in the traditions of French "Haute Joaillerie," each piece is meticulously handcrafted in her French atelier, showcasing the unparalleled "Savoir-Faire" of the craft. Influenced by her life across Paris, Tahiti, Russia, Dubai, and Asia, as well as her rich cultural background, de Boysson infuses her designs with a sophisticated yet contemporary flair.

Her latest collection, Aphrodite Punk, exemplifies her unique approach, merging the natural beauty and healing virtues of stones with the opulence of luxury jewellery. Now based in Miami, Florida, Benedicte de Boysson continues to captivate a discerning international clientele, bringing a touch of French elegance to the everyday.

Benedicte de Boysson, the creative force

behind her namesake jewellery brand, has always believed that design is a deeply personal process. This philosophy was nurtured by a mentor she met years ago, who became a guiding influence in her life and career. "He's been a mentor for a few years now. We're just friends, and we share different designs, but he's the one who taught me how to design," she recalls.

De Boysson learned from her mentor that inspiration could come from anything—a colour, a shape, or even a fleeting moment in a café. "I don't want to compare myself to a painter, but it's a similar process. I could be sitting in a café, and suddenly I have an idea. I put it down on paper. I'm inspired by everything I've lived in my life."

Her collections are a reflection of this diverse inspiration, each one telling a story of a different chapter in her life. Russia, where she once lived, influences some of her pieces with its rich history and opulence. The vibrant cultures of Central Asia, where she travelled extensively, bring a sense of adventure and mystique. The elegance of Middle Eastern aesthetics, shaped during her time in Dubai, also finds its way into her designs. Each collection is a testament to the places she has lived and the experiences that have shaped her.

Looking to the future, de Boysson plans to explore another personal connection— her roots in Tahiti. "We're going to do a collection about pearls because I was born in Tahiti in French Polynesia. It's all about my own experience, but I can get inspired

by anything," she says. Her commitment to creating something glamorous, elegant, and distinctly feminine is unwavering. In a world where femininity and masculinity can often feel distorted, de Boysson believes in a return to the essence of these energies, much like the old couture houses of Christian Dior and Chanel once did. "It was all about elegance, whereas today, it's all about provocation. I'm going against that because it's not what I want for myself. And I'm sure I'm not the only one in this world."

For de Boysson, style is about being true to oneself. She believes that whether one is eccentric or conservative, the key is to remain respectful towards oneself. "I'm not sure putting yourself half-naked in the street is very respectful towards yourself. Styling is about being in alignment with who you are," she explains. In her view, provocation for the sake of attention misses the mark. Instead, she advocates for a style that is provocative yet elegant, making a statement without falling into vulgarity.

De Boysson cites the transformation of Nabila, often dubbed the "French Kardashian," as an example of this shift towards a more refined elegance. "She was very into vulgarity and provocation, and then she went to prison for something dodgy. But she took advice on personal styling and removed anything vulgar. She's still provocative, but more classic now, and she's attracted more people around her. I think the world is looking for something more conservative, but still classy, elegant, glamorous, and stylish."

This commitment to elegance is at the heart of Benedicte de Boysson's jewellery. Each collection is not just a series of pieces but a narrative, often accompanied by a mantra. One collection might focus on balancing the feminine and masculine, while another might draw inspiration from punk culture— always with a modern yet glamorous twist. Her designs are a response to the current fashion landscape, where she sees too much eccentricity. "I'm trying to do something that is modern, yet glamorous and stylish. I don't believe in too much eccentricity," she says.

Her favourite pieces, like the Samarkand hoops, embody this balance. "I'm a big fan of hoops. They can be very vulgar depending on how they're worn, but they can also be very stylish and glamorous."

Before launching her own brand, de Boysson had a background in luxury hospitality, which gave her an appreciation for highend service and design. "I’ve always been fascinated with beautiful hotels, but I didn't have the passion for being a hotelier. I’m more passionate about staying in hotels than working in them," she admits with a laugh. Her time in Switzerland, a hub for jewellery and watches, deepened her understanding of craftsmanship. Working for the prestigious brand Chopard, she learned about the artistry behind luxury jewellery, which set the foundation for her own brand.

In the high-end jewellery business, many brands like Van Cleef & Arpels or Bulgari are known for their conservative approach. However, de Boysson sees an opportunity to introduce her own touch, blending tradition with modernity. "I'm lucky enough to have a talent in creation, which I didn't know before. People around me always say I have good taste. I think it's a gift, and it's a kind of art as well."

As she continues to evolve her brand, de Boysson stays in tune with her customers, yet she places her own taste and intuition at the forefront of her designs. "I pay attention to what my clients want, but more importantly, I listen to myself. I believe that if I like what I create and enjoy wearing it, people will enjoy wearing it as well. It's the other way around—I create because I like it, and then I know people will like it too."

When asked about the fears she faced before launching her brand, de Boysson is candid. "If I had doubts, I would not have started. Trust me. The doubts came along the way with the challenges, ups and downs, and crises. But I think I was saved by my naivety—my lack of understanding of the challenges that were coming."

Persistence and resilience have been her greatest lessons, and her advice to young designers echoes this sentiment. "Listen to your heart. Don't listen to anybody else but your heart. Keep being persistent, believe in your dream, and trust and have faith."

As Benedicte de Boysson continues to grow, she remains focused on expanding her brand, particularly online. "We're developing our online presence now, especially in the United States. We have a new line with pearls that is very close to my heart, and we’re launching a new platform soon."

While the details of future projects are still under wraps, one thing is clear: Benedicte de Boysson is committed to creativity, elegance, and staying true to her vision—a vision that continues to resonate with those who seek not just jewellery, but a piece of art that tells a story.

DEON SMITH:

From Pediatrician to Pioneer in Sustainable Jewelry Design

Interview by Zita Suliman

In a world where fashion is often dictated by fleeting trends, Deon Smith's jewelry stands out as a testament to timeless beauty and personal expression. A former pediatrician turned jewelry designer, Smith’s transition into the fashion industry is as unexpected as it is inspiring. His designs are deeply rooted in a desire to create pieces that are not only visually stunning but also meaningful—reflecting his belief in individuality and sustainability.

Smith’s journey into the world of jewelry design began 15 years ago, when he created bespoke pieces for his wife, whose avant-garde taste in jewelry he found difficult to satisfy in mainstream stores. What started as an occasional hobby turned into a fullfledged passion after his retirement, driven by a desire to cater to fashion-conscious individuals looking for something truly unique. Smith’s pieces are not just adornments but conversation starters, allowing wearers to express themselves and tell their own stories.

Deon Smith never planned on becoming a jewelry designer. In fact, his life began on an entirely different path—he spent 25 years as a pediatrician, running a private practice in Cape Town. But in 2018, everything changed. At 55, Smith decided to retire early to care for his wife, who had been diagnosed with leukemia. His retirement plans initially involved writing a book on South African glassware, one of his many passions, but a chance conversation with a long-time goldsmith sparked a new journey. After years of designing custom jewelry for his wife, Smith was encouraged to take his designs seriously. This nudge led him to launch his own brand, Deon Smith Jewellery, which has since become a celebrated name in sustainable luxury, combining his love for nature, antiques, and storytelling.

From recycled silver to indigenous woods, Smith’s first collection, the Botanical Collection, drew inspiration from Cape Town’s extraordinary Fynbos flora. His designs have garnered international attention, leading to features in several

publications. Now, with his latest Lignum Collection, Smith is transforming wood into a statement material, reflecting his passion for sustainability and environmental consciousness. Despite launching a new career later in life, Smith’s creativity and dedication have made him a powerful voice in the world of sustainable fashion.

At the heart of Smith’s creative process is his love for natural beauty. He crafts his jewelry from sustainable materials, ensuring that each piece aligns with his eco-conscious values. "The materials I use speak to the vulnerability and beauty of nature," Smith explains. This focus on sustainability is a protest against fast fashion—a sector that has concerned him for its emphasis on cheap, rapidly changing trends. Smith’s jewelry is designed to be timeless, to transcend seasons and remain relevant for years to come. Among his most innovative creations is a collection inspired by punctuation marks, which he views as symbols of personal expression, much like tattoos. Smith’s jewelry allows wearers to convey a message in a subtle, yet profound way, using everyday symbols to make a statement.

For Smith, fashion is about more than

just clothing or accessories—it’s about expressing individuality. He is particularly excited by the industry's shift toward gender neutrality, seeing it as a development that allows for greater personal freedom. “Fashion shouldn’t be bound by gender,” he says. “It’s an opportunity for everyone to express their individuality without being confined to traditional roles.”

Smith believes that fashion should be about comfort and confidence, not about following what’s in vogue. "My jewelry needs to be an expression of the desire to be individual, allowing your style to evolve with confidence," he says. His large, bold pieces reflect this philosophy—they are unapologetically statement-making, designed to embody the wearer’s confidence and individuality.

Despite his bold creations, Smith’s personal style is much more subdued. He favors classic, clean-cut clothing in dark tones— navy, dark green, and blacks—reflecting a preference for simplicity and timeless elegance. However, when it comes to accessories, he proudly dons his own lapel pins and tie pins, which he describes as conversation pieces that spark curiosity

wherever he goes.

His journey into jewelry design has been met with intrigue, especially given his background as a pediatrician. "I was worried I’d be laughed at for starting a new career at my age," he admits, but the international recognition he’s received has only confirmed that he made the right choice.

Smith’s fascination with antiques plays a significant role in his work. A planned book on South African glass antiques was shelved in favor of jewelry design, but his love for history still finds its way into his creations. "I’ve recently incorporated 18th-century antiques into my designs," he shares, describing pieces that merge his passion for the past with his modern-day jewelry work. These pieces, which feature found objects, are a natural extension of his creative process and his belief in sustainability.

His latest collection, inspired by punctuation marks and patchwork materials, serves as a protest against fast fashion. "It’s okay to wear something that isn’t ‘of the moment.’ Fashion should be about sustainability and longevity, not instant gratification." Smith is also

exploring the integration of poetry into his designs, with a line inspired by the works of Emily Dickinson. This innovative combination of words and jewelry adds a deeply personal touch, creating pieces that resonate on an emotional level.

Smith’s dedication to creating sustainable, meaningful jewelry is unwavering. His next project, a collection inspired by patchwork and slow fashion, seeks to challenge the disposable nature of modern clothing and accessories. For Smith, each piece of jewelry should be more than just an accessory—it should be a keepsake, something that tells a story and holds personal significance.

As Deon Smith continues to push the boundaries of design, his work stands as a symbol of empowerment and sustainability. His jewelry invites wearers to embrace their individuality, celebrate their personal stories, and challenge the fast-paced nature of the fashion industry. In a world where trends come and go, Smith’s designs promise to remain timeless, treasured for years to come.

The Week

The W Fashion Week 2024 Cohort

When we think of Fashion Weeks, the spotlight often falls on luxury mega brands, leaving emerging designers in the shadows. Every September, The W Fashion Week steps in to change that, offering global exposure and elevating the profiles of upcoming designers and creatives who represent the future of fashion.

As a fashion capital, London holds its place among the world’s most iconic style cities. The W Fashion Week offers both national and international brands the chance to break into the industry, foster community, and build lasting recognition.

With a special emphasis on supporting designers from underrepresented and underprivileged backgrounds, The W Fashion Week is committed to showcasing the globe’s most talented emerging creatives. On September 15th 2024, a new wave of designers and innovators unveiled their collections to buyers, press, and the public at the highly anticipated W Fashion Week runway show, held at the iconic Mercedes-Benz World.

Meet the 2024 cohort!

S hauna COURTNEY LONDON

Shauna Courtney London was established when former fashion assistant Shauna Courtney, decided to make luxury clothing that was affordable. Inspired by the red carpets she had worked on, a six-piece collection was born. In the world of fashion, few brands manage to strike the perfect balance between timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Known for its impeccable tailoring, buttery-soft fabrics, and effortlessly chic designs, Shauna Courtney London has become a go-to label for those who appreciate the finer details in their wardrobe. From sleek silhouettes to luxurious textures, this brand not only defines contemporary style but elevates it with an artistry that speaks to both comfort and couture. As each season unfolds, Shauna Courtney London continues to captivate the fashion-conscious with collections that are as polished as they are wearable, redefining what it means to dress with enduring elegance. The W caught up with the designer after The W Fashion Week 2024.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Shauna: The Primary inspiration for my collection was the women I know and love. Fearless, multi-faceted, bold women. They deserve clothing that reflects every aspect of their lives and works for them, to serve them no matter what they’re doing.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Shauna: Sure! In the very early stages, I make a board of visually appealing things to me. This board includes things well beyond clothing. Nature, architecture, disco balls, dancefloors. I then find the common thread that runs through all of these images which is usually an interesting shape, texture or colour. Then I try to clear my mind and sketch from this inspiration. For this collection in particular, I was inspired by the duality many women experience. Often women move through the professional world, with an almost secret other life, where they feel wild and free. So I wanted to create something that united these two worlds.

The W: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

Shauna: The major challenge for me was creating a luxury product at the most accessible price possible. My background in celebrity styling meant that I have spent countless hours in fittings, with women of all shapes and sizes, which allowed me to ensure the fit was impeccable. After that, I really only had room for fabric to be a major cost, so I learned how to do a lot of things myself (including coding), to ensure that customers are paying a fair price for my product. Luxury fabric is non-negotiable for me, which means I have to keep costs down elsewhere.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

S: My signature style is heavily influenced by classic shapes. No matter what is trending, a classic Givenchy gown worn by Audrey Hepburn will always be in style. So I often take a classic shape and add a twist, to make it a little more exciting. This collection reflects that, in that each piece has a classic shape that will always work on a woman's body, with a secret asymmetry. I like to say that every woman also has a secret twist or asymmetry, so these clothes are like an extension of her.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

S: I am so excited to release the white maxi dress that I showcased at The W Fashion Week. The response to that piece was absolutely incredible. I’ve also just spoken to a client who is wearing our champagne mini dress on her wedding day which is just so special to me. My brand has only been in business for a few months and already the response has been overwhelming, so I am unbelievably excited to see what the future holds. My long-term goals for the brand were

a BAFTA red carpet, costume for TV/Film and Fashion Week, but I’ve ticked them all off! So I think I’ll have to dream a little bigger.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

S: It was phenomenal. Selecting my models, who I felt reflected the SC Girl so well, was a major part of the process for me. Clothes are nothing without the woman who wears them. Also having the team on hand to help me see out my vision for the show was incredible. As a small brand it’s not something I could’ve done by myself. Presenting the clothes, with my family and friends there, is something I will never forget.

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

S: The feedback has been incredible, I’m still trying to process it. If anything it’s just given me the push to keep doing what I’m doing, because people seem to respond to it. It was the most rewarding feeling in the world.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their

work at a major fashion week?

S: I would say to bet on yourself. Making yourself small or believing you’re not capable doesn’t serve anyone. Be your brand's number one fan, you have to stand over your designs and be the face of your brand. The best way to do this, of course, is to make a great product.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

S: I think it has given me a new sense of confidence in my ability as a designer. Because I started out in styling, it was hard to switch lanes and have the assurance to say “actually, I am a designer”. Seeing my clothes on a runway during London Fashion Week, just one season into business, has given me a huge boost in confidence. It has also taught me to think bigger - the sky's the limit.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

S: I am hoping to communicate to women that you deserve clothing that works for you. I think I’ve made luxury clothing accessible and I hope it inspires women to invest in themselves. I also hope it inspires them to have a little fun, life is not that serious.

BONIFIQUE

Bonifique's collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024 was inspired by the versatility of their designs, which can be worn for travel, sports, and even evening events. The brand aimed to showcase their top looks and demonstrate the adaptability of their pieces.

The creative process involved selecting the most popular and unique designs from each category, including travel, sports, and evening wear. An olive evening dress was also presented, evoking the feeling of summer travels and romantic vacations. Given their background in professional tennis and their involvement in the travel project Bonifique LIFE, the designers have a deep understanding of what athletes and travelers need. This knowledge informed their designs, ensuring they were both functional and fashionable.

The primary challenges faced during the collection's creation were related to timing and materials. Bonifique is committed to using high-quality fabrics and spends a considerable amount of time on the creation of each piece, ensuring that each garment is handmade to perfection.

This collection reflects Bonifique's philosophy of a sport chic aesthetic. The brand believes in creating stylish and comfortable pieces that can seamlessly transition from athletic activities to everyday life.

Bonifique has several exciting collaborations in the pipeline, including partnerships with various tennis and yoga clubs, travel companies, and spa resorts. These collaborations will allow them to reach a wider audience and continue to expand their brand.

The preparation process for The W Fashion Week was a bit disorganized and stressful for each designer involved. However, the show itself was brilliant, and they thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

“The feedback received since the show has been overwhelmingly positive, with followers and clients praising the collection. Bonifique is proud to have been a part of The W Fashion Week and to have showcased their designs to such a large audience,” the Founder Anastaysia Halaburda.

For other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week,

Bonifique advises focusing on telling their story and sharing their unique philosophy. The story behind their brand can set them apart and help them connect with their audience.

The W Fashion Week experience has been invaluable for Bonifique's growth as a designer. It has provided them with a great platform to showcase their brand, improve their PR and marketing efforts, and enhance their brand reputation.

Through this collection, Bonifique aimed to convey a message of comfort, quality, uniqueness, and a new era of sport chic. Their designs embody these values and offer a fresh perspective on fashion.

“ The feedback received since the show has been overwhelmingly positive, with followers and clients praising the collection. Bonifique is proud to have been a part of The W Fashion Week and to have showcased their designs to such a large audience.”

Bav TAILOR

Born in London, Indian by origin, a nomad in spirit, Bav Tailor, is the Founder and Conscious Creative of her eponymous holistic luxury brand. Founded in 2013, the company celebrates its Decennial Anniversary upholding through her surname, the tradition of her ancestors and Grandfathers, great Sartorialists, through sourcing materials from mindful suppliers and showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Bav Tailor: The VISHUDDI slowear capsule collection showcased focuses on a syntrophy of holistic luxury and responsibility inspired by texture, transformation, and transparency through experimenting different forms of expression and my spiritual evolution that now transitions from ‘la mode’ towards ancient wisdom rituals slowear, spiritual performances and consultancy, to the essential teachings of mindful living and inner ecology cultivation.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Bav Tailor: The creative process commences always with the narrative of the innovative materials and the question ‘what is the purpose of the piece?’. Each look storytelled an essential piece of wardrobe. The W showcase was 5 looks in total which represented a narrative memoir of my creative aesthetic since inception in 2013: Urban Chic - Dusk till Dawn – Self-Love – Shaolin Spirit – Sacred Rituals. Commencing with the Tencel Luxe White Suit paired with my signature Japanese Feather Silk Shirt, to the Plissé Jumpsuit in Botto Giuseppe’s sublime fabrics; to my moving meditation signature Lokya Escape Trousers Combo in organic cotton with filaments of copper threads for energetic and antibacterial benefits paired with an Oversize White Waistcoat featuring a Selenite crystal closure and my Shaolin Hàn Fù inspired Plissé Jacket and Trousers, all once again in Botto Giuseppe’s finest yarns. The final Ritual Kaftan in a jacquard Tencel weave showcases my evolution into creating commissioned pieces for sacred rituals.

The W: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

B: No challenges. When you have sublime fabrics to work and a tailor with majestic hands, the creative process is effortless.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

B: The collection represents the journey of a Wondrous Nomad and free-spirited nonchalance where each pieces remains an adornment to the Body, our spiritual temple of which, if cultivated and nurtured correctly, can become our gateway to manifest our desires. Through the physical body, we feel,

experience, and touch to create change within ourselves and those around us.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

B: Through my journey, I’ve undergone a constant evolution of my skills and consciousness as I bring my holistic consultancy to a wider audience through my Śakti Sphere, a sanctuary space that provides a 360° holistic offering, an allencompassing multi-sensory experience along with wellness services and luxury products. The Śakti Sphere is the culmination of many years of my nomadic exploration, through which my philosophy has expanded and developed, through a rich synthesis of experience, ancient wisdom and existential realisation. I have chosen to develop my childhood heritage of spiritual practices, bringing strongly held ethics and values to a new calling in the wellness industry. Together with my new collaboration with Publicist Valentina Cangiano, Founder of The Profile Agency, we endeavour to further expand my offering of holistic experiences within the UK and support my British heritage, whilst expanding horizons internationally within Europe, Middle East, USA and Asia.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

B: The showcase with W Fashion Week 2024 was a delightful experience where the support of the team was heartfelt and the soulful enthusiasm of the models that captured the essence of each look was truly sublime.

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

B: I was humbled by all the positive feedback that I received not only from audience members but from the backstage staff, and fellow designers who showcased with me. My conscious fashion community continues to consciously support me as they see the natural evolution I am taking along my personal journey and as always, using fashion as a mere vehicle to bring awareness of mindful living and provide tools to elevate self- development.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

B: Be confident of your creativity.

Be mindful of your investments.

Have no expectations of the outcome. Enjoy the journey and flow with whatever ripples your way.

Take each experience as a learning curve to evolve.

Always trust the Process.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

B: I remain grateful to W Fashion Week for providing me with such a vast platform to narrate my vision and expand my creativity to a wider audience.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

B: The Art of Transformation through Spiritual Wellness is the narrative of this holistic showcase. Humanity exists within a Universe that remains in constant evolution as we creators build it. Within this Divine Matrix, the power of intent and manifestation can be a powerful tool in shaping our surroundings. What we visualise, we can create, as beings entwined in a container that remains the bridge between the world within us and the world beyond. As co-creators we should aspire to become in our lives what we choose to experience upon this Earth. The cosmic symphony of our thoughts, expressions and collective compassion can rebuild the lands that are disintegrating due to our misguided actions, whilst aiding healing and empowering us all to become the Masters in the creation of the world for future generations.

ANKO

Anko’s latest collection by its founder Felix Inala, titled Obinrin, is a heartfelt tribute to the beauty, pride, and elegance of the female form. Drawing inspiration from the African word Obinrin, meaning "woman," the collection seeks to embody the essence of womanhood—both in its softness and strength. Each piece tells the story of the cultural depth and timeless grace that Anko women represent.

Like every collection from Anko, the creative process began with a mood board. This foundational step helps shape the vision of the collection, sparking inspiration that guides the sketches and designs. After this, the journey moves into the critical phase of sampling, where the designs are refined. Decisions on which pieces make it to the final cut are meticulously made, ensuring that only the best craftsmanship reaches the runway.

The Obinrin collection is Anko’s most experimental to date, incorporating

innovative textures and techniques that added dimension and depth to each piece. This experimental approach came with its own set of challenges, particularly in managing the artisans involved in the process. Anko ventured into new territory, balancing creativity with logistical and managerial precision to ensure the collection was cohesive and true to the brand’s vision.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Felix: The primary inspiration for the collection stemmed from the Female form; the beauty, elegance and pride found in a woman with an African word “Obinrin” representing the name of the collection

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Felix: Every collection begins with the mood board, the inspiration is then drawn leading to sketching and designing. From this stage it moves to sampling where we edit and decide what makes it to the final draft and then produced, Hence, leading to the pieces that were seen on the runway.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

F: This collection was a very experimental one for Anko. We decided to incorporate textures and techniques into it. The biggest challenge we had was centered on managing the craftsmen we walked with. This was a whole new territory for us, having to handle the collaborative effort smoothly required a lot of managerial skills which we handled properly given that the collection came out the way we envisaged.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

F: The Anko style features a strong woman who is cultural, well traveled, authoritative, simple, classy and elegant. This collection gives a cultural glimpse of the elegance found in an Anko woman.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

F: I must say, preparing came with a lot of pressure, ensuring the craftsmen meet the required standards and goals. Aside from that, I must say preparing was very exciting. It was filled with expectations for maximum performance delivery

Yes it absolutely did meet and surpass my expectations, It was amazing to meet other designers, rubbing ideas and challenges together.

It was also an indicator on how the fashion space needs to keep giving smaller designers the opportunity to be heard and seen just like The W. Absolutely fantastic!

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

F: We got feedback from guests on the choice of fabric to the detailing in the outfit. There were lots of accolades attributed to our collections.

Moving forward, I’m aware by the conversations and comments that I just need to keep tapping into the creative side of myself with of course committing to standard.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

F: Originality, people are watching. Stay true to yourself and to your identity.

It’s OK to make mistakes, but you must learn from it to move forward.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

F: I believe this experience has further enlightened me on how to deliver upon fashion shows and the landscape.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

F: The aim was to celebrate the softness and strength in feminism in a textural and cultural context.

Prudence YOUNG

Prudence Young's brand is a testament to the power of storytelling through fashion. Each piece is a tangible manifestation of abstract feelings, drawing inspiration from the interplay between raw emotion and refined aesthetics. With a focus on artistic expression and experimentation, the label challenges conventional silhouettes, delivering bold and statement-making designs that resonate deeply with the wearer..

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind "The Aftermath"?

Prudence: "The Aftermath" explores the tension between mourning and resilience," Young explains. "Sculpted leather-like pieces, intricate knitwear, and distorted silhouettes reflect the ebb and flow of grief—expressing both the heaviness and the delicate moments of recovery." The collection uses fashion as a tool for solace and reflection, speaking to the universality of human emotions.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process?

Prudence: Young describes her process as fluid and open to unexpected turns. "I always start with a strong initial concept," she says, "followed by extensive fabric experimentation, exploring textures and forms. I trust the process to evolve organically, allowing my ideas to take shape naturally."

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection?

P: "The biggest challenge," Young reveals, "was designing from a concept that didn't have a tangible reference. Translating abstract feelings into concrete designs because emotions don't inherently have a visual form was the most difficult part."

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

P: "This collection embodies my signature style by merging knitwear with leather," Young explains. "The combination of soft, feminine elements with more masculine, rugged materials creates a fusion that defines my aesthetic."

TW: What are your plans for the future?

P: Young, a rising star in the fashion world, plans to launch her own brand following the success of her debut collection.

TW: How was your experience at The W Fashion Week 2024?

P: Despite the initial stress of a first-time experience, Young shares, "The W Fashion Show far exceeded my expectations. The gratitude I felt during and after the show made all the hard work worthwhile."

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community?

P: "The feedback I received was amazing," Young beams. "I didn't think I would get this reaction from fellow creatives and the audience."

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers?

P: Young encourages other designers, "Believe in your talent. It's easy to feel discouraged, but having faith in your abilities and putting yourself out there is the most important step you can take."

TW: How has this experience contributed to

your growth?

P: "It pushed me out of my comfort zone," Young reflects. "Being surrounded by other designers and like-minded creatives helped me grow significantly."

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

P: "Design is my way of expressing myself," Young concludes. "'The Aftermath' reflects my personal journey through grief, and I knew, especially after recent years, that many others could relate to these emotions."

Matthew JOSEPH

Born in the Windy City, Chicago, African-American fashion designer Matthew Joseph Williams has quickly made a name for himself in the fashion world. His passion for fashion began at a young age, sparked by a single sewing class at 14. From there, he launched a custom t-shirt business, showcasing his early talent in design.

Williams' involvement with South Shore Drill Team, a prominent youth performing arts organization in Chicago, further fueled his passion. He created exquisite, eye-catching uniforms for their performances and parades, demonstrating his ability to blend creativity and functionality.

Over the years, Williams honed his design, pattern-making, and sewing skills, ultimately leading to the birth of his brand, "The Freezer," now rebranded as Matthew Joseph. Inspired by the shapes around him, Williams transforms lines and angles into striking silhouettes, pushing the boundaries of fashion with his vibrant evening wear and suits.

Williams' vision is to create a brand that accentuates all shapes and sizes, empowering both women and men to feel confident, comfortable, and fashionforward. His collections, showcased at events like LA Fashion Week and the Cleveland Museum of Art, reflect this commitment to inclusivity and empowerment.

To further expand his knowledge and skills, Williams recently studied Haute Couture fashions in Paris. His latest collection, "No Space to Breathe," showcases his continued growth and evolution as a designer.

Matthew Joseph's journey from a young tailor to a rising star in the fashion world is a testament to his talent, passion, and commitment to his craft. With his focus on empowerment and inclusivity, Williams is poised to make a significant impact on the fashion industry.

RAINBOWDROPZ

In the heart of Middlesbrough, removed from the hustle of London’s fashion scene, Grace Braithwaite is quietly revolutionising the world of sustainable, handmade fashion with her brand, Rainbowdropz.

What began as a way to create her own path in a region with limited fashion opportunities has blossomed into a vibrant brand focused around colourful crochet that empowers wearers, including Harry Styles, to express their personal style through made-to-order pieces.

“I just found that there’s literally, like, no fashion jobs anywhere near Middlesbrough,” Braithwaite reflects on her decision to launch her brand. After completing her undergraduate degree in product design when fashion felt unattainable, she went on to complete a master’s degree in fashion design in Manchester. After graduating, Braithwaite returned home to Middlesbrough, a city she loves but admits lacks the infrastructure for aspiring fashion designers. “It was easier here for family, but the opportunities just aren’t there.”

Faced with the challenges of being a northern designer in an industry often centred around London, Braithwaite turned a limitation into an opportunity by creating Rainbowdropz. “There was literally no option to pursue a career in fashion with any sort of brand here, so I thought I’d create my own… I just wanted to start my own collection and do my own thing and see how it goes.”

Admitting, “there's no real fashion scene or community,” echoes the thoughts of many creatives aiming to break into the industry outside of the big smoke. With a number of amazing groups to support people creating their own brands or looking to network, few extend beyond the North-South border which creates the tough decision: live where you want to but leave your dream behind, or leave your home behind to follow your dream.

Despite these challenges, Rainbowdropz has created a name with over 65K followers on Instagram currently. With an ethos centred on slow, sustainable fashion, Braithwaite‘s designs are not only unique and fun but resonate with modern strives towards conscious shopping. “I don't want to overproduce… I do everything made to order, made to measure, customisable,” she explains. For Braithwaite, this approach is not only a commitment to our planet but also a way to ensure that each customer feels

they’re investing in something truly special. “If you’re spending money to have something handmade, you want it to be unique for you.”

Every piece from Rainbowdropz can be adapted per customer requests, with bright colours and playful designs at the heart of the brand. Communication is key to ensure “a very smooth, quick process.” From the outset Braithwaite create an open dialogue, explaining, “I'm realistic with my customers [with] how long things are going to take... make sure everything is perfect, even once they've got it, if there's anything that they're not happy with then I'm more than happy to then alter that for them, because I want them to have the perfect item that they wanted.”

Braithwaite’s use of crochet - particularly the iconic granny square - reinvents tradition and redefines a technique often associated with blankets and, informed by its name, the older generation, bringing it into the realm of high fashion. Her recent collection, showcased at The W Fashion Week, included eight dynamic looks, from T-shirt and mini-skirt sets to tunics and summer dresses, all embodying her whimsical aesthetic.

Though her designs may appear fun and lighthearted, there’s a deep passion and thoughtfulness behind every stitch. Braithwaite handles every step of the process

herself, maintaining a meticulous standard of quality even as demand grows. “If I get really busy, I extend my wait time, but I never like to turn away orders,” she says. And that mindset has paid off in unexpected ways - like the time she received an order from Harry Styles’ stylist. “I didn’t even realise he’d worn one of my hats,” she recalls with a laugh. Spotted in her bright yellow sunflower hat ahead of a Love On Tour show in Berlin, the recognition that followed after her distinctive crochet work circulated across publications and social media was a surreal moment for the small brand.

Not only was a huge A-lister wearing a design she conceived and made by hand, but the experience solidified that she was doing something unique with her brand, too. When content was being shared, Braithwait explained how fans of Rainbowdropz “were tagging me in it because they knew it was mine, which I thought was really nice - it was my distinctive style.”

Yet, for all her success, it doesn’t matter who is wearing her clothes as long as they make them feel good. As for what she hopes someone feels when they wear one of her designs? “Empowered, happy, confident.” And that’s exactly what her bold, colourful pieces deliver.

As a young woman balancing a competitive industry with having a husband and children, Braithwaite remains determined, driven by her passion for her craft and a belief in her brand’s mission. “As long as you love what you do, you’re going to get better and better at everything you produce,” she says. And her advice for other Northern designers facing similar hurdles? “Just do it. Back yourself. You’ve got nothing to lose.”

Rainbowdropz’s story is a testament to the power of creativity and resilience, proving that success can flourish far from the traditional fashion capitals. As she looks to the future, Braithwaite is all about experimentation. Alongside her garments, she also designs crochet patterns, offering a way

for others in the crochet community to create their own versions of her signature styles.

“A lot of my following is from the crochet community. If you know how to crochet, you’re not going to buy a crochet piece - you want to make it yourself.”

With plans to explore new shapes and silhouettes, Rainbowdropz’s journey is still advancing. And as the brand grows, Braithwaite remains as committed as ever to creating fashion that is sustainable, expressive, and, above all, empowering.

ConfidenceBY GRACE

British-born Nigerian Grace Akiode is the driving force behind Confidence by Grace, a London-based luxury womenswear brand that embodies the perfect blend of boldness and grace.

Confidence by Grace creates timeless pieces designed for the confident, fearless woman. Each garment exudes an air of confidence, encouraging women to stand out from the crowd and make a statement with their elegance and attitude. The brand celebrates the audacity to be fearless, embrace individuality, and radiate grace with every step.

Inspired by the resilience and beauty of women who fearlessly embrace their uniqueness, Confidence by Grace is driven by a passion to empower women to embrace their confidence, celebrate their individuality, and radiate grace in all aspects of their lives.

Grace's love for fashion ignited at a young age, and her elegant gowns and sophisticated ready-to-wear pieces are a testament to her lifelong passion. Even as a teenager, she showcased her talent by designing her own prom dress.

With conviction, Grace pours her passion and meticulous attention to detail into every creation. Commonly called "Grace Designer," she strives to celebrate and empower women through her timeless, elegant designs. Her goal is to help women embrace their confidence and individuality, ensuring each piece she creates makes a statement and radiates grace and boldness.

Grace's engaging social media presence offers a unique glimpse into her design process, with behind-the-scenes videos reaching over 30,000 viewers. This transparency and openness allow followers to experience the meticulous craftsmanship and creative vision that define Confidence by Grace. By sharing these intimate moments, Grace fosters a deeper connection with her audience, inviting them to join her on the creative journey.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Grace: The primary inspiration behind my collection, “It’s All or Nothing,” is inspired by my journey and the trials I’ve faced as a designer. This collection embodies the essence of giving my all, reflecting a commitment to excellence that I hold dear.

In my life, I have learned that I cannot afford to be anything less than fully invested in my work. Each piece is a testament to my belief that success requires total dedication; it’s about risking everything I’ve worked hard for to create something meaningful.

The journey from darkness to light is central to my collection, and this is illustrated by the collection’s colour palette. Starting with deep blacks that represent challenges and

struggles, the transition to shiny sequins symbolises my emergence into a brighter, more confident self. It’s a celebration of my evolution, not just as a designer but as an individual.

Ultimately, this collection is more than just glamour; it reflects my story and the promise I make to myself—to always strive for greatness and to shine through adversity!

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Grace: The primary inspiration behind my collection, “It’s All or Nothing,” was my personal journey as a designer. Each piece represents different stages of my growth and the challenges I’ve overcome. I wanted the colour palette—black, silver, and maroon—to be elegant yet symbolic. The black throughout my collection signifies struggles, while the matte black and silver striped sequins represent my evolution into a confident woman. One piece blends black, stripes, and maroon, reflecting that I will always be in a state of becoming. I wanted these colours to celebrate my evolution not only as a designer but also as a woman.

Each outfit evolved as I went through the process. Initially, I envisioned the blouse as a bomber jacket. However, after creating a toilet, I wasn’t satisfied, so I pivoted to designing the blouse. I experimented with long pleated sleeves before deciding on a more practical drawstring detail that I ended up loving. The same silhouette inspired the jumpsuit, which from a distance gives the illusion of a dress due to its wide-leg trousers. It needed to stand out but remain understated, so I chose the striped sequin fabric for the jumpsuit and paired it with duchess satin in the blouse.

As for the black dress, I originally considered a bubble hem but decided to incorporate the same drawstring ruching detail on the sleeves. I chose black duchess satin because of how beautifully it drapes, knowing it would create a striking effect. For the black suit I had a different design in mind initially, but as I draped fabric on the stand, I accidentally created the look it has now. I layered wool with duchess satin, and it turned out much better than I had planned.

This process was unlike any I’ve experienced before. I was working in a different mental space, with less equipment and resources than I’m used to, and it was intimidating. I generally prefer to stick to what I know, but facing my fears pushed me to create something new!

Seeing my collection on the runway was so emotional. It brought back memories of the tough moments, but it was all worth it. I’d do it all over again in a heartbeat—it’s a moment I’ll never forget.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

G: Comparing my collection to my past work. One of the hardest challenges was stepping out of the shadow of my previous work. I constantly found myself comparing my collection to the quality and standard I had achieved before. I knew I had to move out of the old limelight and prove to myself that I could create something even more beautiful, without being confined to the success or comfort of past work. Moving out of that ‘old limelight’ meant I had to confront my fear of failure head-on and let go of the safety net my past work provided. I came to a place where I had no choice but to trust that I could evolve beyond the identity I had built as a designer, and step into uncharted territory with confidence.

Believing in my creative capability – Another challenge I faced was trusting that I had the skills and creative direction to bring my vision to life. There were moments when I wondered if I could fully actualise my designs or if they’d just remain as ideas without the right execution. The fear of not living up to my own expectations sometimes overshadowed the creative process. There were days when the designs in my head felt impossible to execute especially with the level of detail and precision I wanted. I had to constantly remind myself to trust my heart, believe in my creativity, and push past the uncertainty that I often felt.

Balancing my creative vision with practicality – ensuring that each piece was wild and expressive but also wearable and functional.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

G: My collection reflects my signature style throughout my collection, from my fabric choices to the draping on the sleeves, to the element of storytelling in my designs. Draping has always been a key part of my style, so incorporating that into my collection felt like second nature. I’ve always designed with a narrative in mind, and for this collection, the transition from dark to light represents my journey from uncertainty to confidence.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

G: I have several exciting projects lined up! I’m about to start working on a new collection while also focusing on establishing my brand further. This is my second fashion show in a month, so it’s been a busy yet exhilarating time.Looking ahead, I hope to launch a 2025 Spring/Summer Collection. I also have plans to introduce “Confidence By Grace Bridal,” as I have numerous wedding dress designs waiting in my sketchbook, eager to be brought to life. Additionally, I aspire to create an exclusive menswear collection in the future. I’m thrilled to have been invited to collaborate with Miss Nigeria UK, which came about after they saw my collection at the show.

TW: How was your experience preparing for

and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

G: I didn't do much to prepare for the show. I absolutely loved presenting my collection. It was truly a dream come true! It surpassed my expectations. It was a beautiful experience!

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

G: After the show, I was overwhelmed with DM’s from people expressing their love for my collection and sharing how proud they were of me. The striped sequin jumpsuit and the black dress seem to be clear favourites! This feedback has not only been incredibly humbling but also inspiring. It’s reaffirmed my passion for creating bold, statement pieces and has motivated me to keep going! A lot of people were surprised that I was a designer but I love the element of surprise! The feedback has inspired my continued pursuit of excellence when it comes to my brand but also who I am as a woman!

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their

work at a major fashion week?

G: Believe in your vision. Don’t be afraid to be different, and put yourself out there. Take a chance on yourself, and truly believe that you are that good!! Believe there is space for you—a space for your vision! There’s something unique you bring to the table! Find opportunities to do things that scare you, and then do them anyway!

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

G: Before I say anything, I want to take a moment to genuinely thank Ms. Phadria for creating opportunities for people like me. Her unwavering belief in emerging talent has not only changed my life but has also ignited a spark of hope in countless others who feel unseen. Honestly, I’m still grappling with my emotions—it feels surreal, almost like a dream.

This experience has been transformative for me. It has opened doors to visibility I never imagined and allowed me to forge connections with incredible people—models, videographers, photographers—many of whom I hope to call friends for life. I’ve truly

come out of my shell, shaking off the dust of self-doubt and fear, and have begun to dream bigger than I ever thought possible. What’s profound is how much my confidence in my creative abilities has grown. I’ve come to realise the depth of creativity I carry within me. It’s as if I’ve unlocked a part of myself that was waiting to be discovered. My social engagement has skyrocketed, connecting me with hundreds of individuals who may have never noticed me before and that connection is incredibly fulfilling.

This experience has shown me that my voice matters and that my journey can resonate with others. It’s ignited a passion within me that I’m excited to explore further. I feel empowered, more determined than ever, and ready to embrace the endless possibilities ahead.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

G: The message I aimed to convey through this collection is the message that there is always hope and that even in our darkest moments, we can be light!

Iman GRINE

Established in 2024 by rising fashion designer Iman Grine, this brand pays tribute to the strength and diversity of Moroccan women in all facets of their lives. Inspired by Morocco’s rich cultural heritage, the brand seamlessly merges contemporary fashion with traditional elements, creating collections that both empower and inspire. Each piece is carefully crafted to embody the beauty, resilience, and unique experiences of Moroccan women, offering a distinctive blend of modern style and artisanal craftsmanship. With a passion for fashion and a deep reverence for Moroccan culture, the brand celebrates the grace, strength, and individuality of women.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Iman: For my project I designed a collection that blends artistic and cultural elements of my Moroccan heritage. I was inspired by the vibrant paintings of Chabia Talal and the rich tapestry of Moroccan culture. My designs also fight for Moroccan women’s freedom, employment and self expression by embracing themes of women’s rights, taboos, and societal standards. Every piece of clothing conveys a tale of tenacity, power and individuality by combining components like vivid textiles and texture, classic motifs and custom fabric with symbolic and personal meaning. This project honours the various experiences, tales and aspects of Moroccan women while also providing a forum for social commentary and personal storytelling. It is a creative manifestation of my design ability.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Iman: My creative process started with the desire to create something meaningful, close to me, and truly unique. The fabric I used for this collection comes from my childhood home—traditional sofa fabric and cushions that are full of personal history. These pieces have witnessed so many moments in my life: laughter, tears, family discussions, and reunions. They represent a big part of my experiences growing up. I wanted to deconstruct these fabrics and transform them into something that not only honours my heritage but also speaks to the strength and complexity of women. In developing this collection, I wanted every detail to tell a story and evoke emotion. Using fabric from my childhood home was central to this vision. That sofa fabric held so much significance for me because it was more than just material; it was a witness to my family's life. I remember moments spent sitting on it—whether it was during family gatherings, arguments, or quiet moments of reflection. Each piece of the collection carries those emotions, almost as if the fabric itself is infused with the memories of laughter, tears, and everything in between. Deconstructing these materials was my way of breaking down these personal experiences and reimagining them in a way that fits the narrative I wanted to share. I didn't just want

to create clothes; I wanted to use fashion as a medium for storytelling. By taking these sentimental fabrics and reconstructing them into bold, powerful pieces, I was able to express themes of tenacity and individuality, much like the Moroccan women who inspire me. I wanted to celebrate women in every role they hold— whether it's as mothers, artists, or brides—while also commenting on the limitations and expectations that come with these roles.

I found inspiration in my mother’s experience, especially on her wedding day, a pivotal moment that carried layers of emotion. Through my designs, I sought to capture her transition into a new phase of life, full of both excitement and societal expectations. The symbolism of this transition extends beyond my personal story, touching on broader themes of womanhood in Moroccan culture. Visually, I was also captivated by images of Moroccan women in revealing attire— something that remains a topic of debate and prejudice in society. This visual contrast of liberation and judgement influenced the way I approached the design, combining both modest and bold elements to reflect the tension between tradition and self expression. Ultimately, the collection became a celebration of women’s resilience, their ability to hold multiple roles, and their courage to challenge societal norms while embracing their individuality. It’s a deeply personal manifestation of my heritage and a tribute to the stories and struggles of Moroccan women.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

I: One of the main challenges I faced while creating this collection was in the construction process. Deconstructing and transforming fabrics with such personal significance into wearable art was not an easy task. However, despite these challenges, the overall experience was incredibly positive. Every step I took seemed to fall into place naturally, and everything felt like it was moving in the right direction.

I was fortunate to have amazing tutors who guided me throughout the process. Their support was invaluable, and it made me feel confident and never alone or lost. This confidence pushed me to strive for the best, and it became a driving force behind the success of the project. I was able to overcome the construction challenges by trusting my vision and leaning on the guidance of those around me. This confidence helped me stay focused, motivated, and ultimately led to a collection I’m incredibly proud of.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

I: This collection reflects my signature style by combining bold artistic expression with deep cultural and personal meaning. My designs always centre around celebrating Moroccan heritage and honouring women’s freedom, individuality, and strength. Using fabric from my childhood home, alongside vibrant textiles and classic motifs, gave each piece a

unique emotional and symbolic value. I focus on blending cultural narratives, personal experiences, and social commentary into one cohesive vision, which defines my approach to design. Through deconstructed silhouettes, rich textures, and meaningful storytelling, I aim to create pieces that not only look beautiful but also challenge societal norms and celebrate the diverse experiences of women. This collection is a true reflection of my style, showing my ability to turn fashion into a medium for both personal expression and impactful storytelling.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week?

I: Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about? After The W Fashion Week, my plan is to dive into a new project that continues the same narrative but from different perspectives. I want to explore the stories within other Moroccan households, discovering what each one has to say and collecting meaningful pieces from these homes to create something truly memorable. This project will allow me to expand the dialogue around Moroccan culture and women's experiences even further.

I'm also excited to collaborate with photographers and other brands that I had the chance to connect with during the show. These collaborations will give me the opportunity to expand my creative vision and work with others who share similar values and artistic perspectives.

T W: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

I: My experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024 was incredible. Even though it was a challenging day, I went there with confidence and no expectation, just positive vibes and open to meet new people and connect. As for the presentation, it exceeded my expectations. Seeing my work on the runway and how the audience reacted to it was a proud and fulfilling moment. It felt like the culmination of all the hard work and personal meaning that went into the collection, and the response was more than I could have hoped for.

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

I: The feedback I received from the fashion community since the show has been incredibly positive and encouraging. Many people appreciated the personal and cultural depth of my collection, particularly how it celebrates Moroccan heritage and the diverse experiences of women. The unique use of fabric from my childhood home also resonated with many, as it added a layer of authenticity and emotional connection to the pieces. This feedback has further inspired me to continue exploring deeply personal and cultural narratives in my future designs. It reinforced the idea that fashion can be a

powerful medium for storytelling and social commentary. Moving forward, I plan to dive even deeper into these themes, continuing to create pieces that reflect not only my own experiences but also the stories of others, especially Moroccan women from different walks of life.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

I: For emerging designers aiming to showcase their work at a major fashion week, my advice is to stay true to your unique vision while meticulously planning and preparing every detail of your collection. Seek guidance from mentors and industry professionals, and be open to constructive feedback to refine your designs. Build a network of connections for potential collaborations and stay resilient in the face of challenges and ensure your

collection tells a compelling story, as a strong narrative can deeply engage the audience and set your work apart.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

I: This experience has significantly contributed to my growth as a designer in several ways. Preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week challenged me to push the boundaries of my creativity and refine my technical skills. The positive feedback from the fashion community validated my approach and deepened my understanding of how personal and cultural narratives can enhance design. Collaborating with mentors and industry professionals expanded my network and provided invaluable insights into the fashion world. Overall, this experience has bolstered my confidence, sharpened my design perspective, and inspired me to

continue exploring and expressing unique stories through my work.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

I: Through this collection, I wanted to highlight the profound connection between personal history and cultural identity. By repurposing fabric from my childhood home, I aimed to weave a narrative that bridges past and present, showing how our personal experiences shape and inform our identity. The collection also serves as a platform for discussing broader societal issues, including women’s rights and cultural expectations. Each piece is designed to reflect not just individual stories but also collective experiences, challenging traditional norms and celebrating the complexity and richness of Moroccan women’s lives.

Detaron COUTURE

Detaron Couture showcased a collection inspired by London at The W Fashion Week 2024. The designs were characterized by their sexy, trendy, fun, and outspoken aesthetic. Pink, bright colors, flashiness, and bling are consistent elements in Detaron Couture's signature style. Detaron Couture hopes to convey a message of boldness, bravery, fearlessness, and staying blessed through this collection.

“I would love to showcase my brand again with The W Fashion Week, it was amazing and great.”

Blu REIGN

Emerging womenswear designer Jade Tennant, founder of the label Blu Reign, made waves with her latest collection, "Urban Equinox," at The W Fashion Show. A fusion of summer and autumn pieces, this collection highlights the beauty of the changing seasons, while drawing inspiration from the juxtaposition of urban living and nature. With her unique approach to sourcing fabrics and a keen eye for detail, Tennant is quickly carving a niche for herself in the world of fashion.

“The main inspiration behind my collection was ‘Urban Equinox’ — a curation of our summer and autumn pieces, resembling the beauty of changing seasons,” Tennant shares. The collection reflects her love for contrasts, as she blends the industrial feel of city life with the organic elements of nature. This thoughtful combination adds a layer of depth to her work, allowing her garments to tell a story of transition, evolution, and growth.

For Tennant, fabric is the cornerstone of her creative process. “Sourcing the right fabrics plays a huge part in the initial design process,” she explains. “I can look at a fabric and envision how I would like the fabric to sit on the body and the structure of the design.” Starting with sketches, she carefully crafts each garment, moving through the stages of pattern-making, testing shapes, and stitching the final piece together.

But her attention to detail doesn't stop at the garment itself. Tennant emphasizes the importance of accessories and styling, especially on the runway. “Accessories and styling are important to me on a runway, making sure the shoes and any other accessories complement the outfit and bring the look together.”

Like any creative journey, Tennant faced her share of challenges while bringing "Urban Equinox" to life. “As with creating any collection, there comes challenges, such as a design not turning out as you had envisioned,” she says. Working with new fabrics and managing time constraints — especially pulling together the collection in under two weeks — also tested her resilience. Despite these hurdles, Tennant's commitment to her vision remained unwavering, and she

emerged from the process with a collection that resonated deeply with her audience.

Jade Tennant’s signature design ethos is simple yet impactful: creating unique, edgy, and wearable pieces for women. “This showed through in every piece of this collection,” she affirms. The "Urban Equinox" collection perfectly embodies her ability to merge bold, innovative designs with practical wearability — a rare combination that sets her apart in the fashion industry.

With 2024 coming to a close, Tennant hints at exciting new projects on the horizon. “I have some incredible new designs and collections which I’ve been working on this year, and I hope to bring them to the public in the last few months of 2024,” she reveals. Additionally, she has her sights set on attending more fashion shows in 2025, further solidifying her place in the industry.

Reflecting on her experience at The W Fashion Show, Tennant describes it as both challenging and rewarding. “As with any fashion show, there will be challenges throughout the day, and as a designer who strives for perfection in the smallest of details, at times it was stressful!” she admits. However, despite the inevitable hiccups, the show was a success. “From the venue to the guests to the models, it was an incredible day.”

Since her show at The W, Tennant has been flooded with positive feedback. “I have received nothing but incredible feedback, from guests, photographers, models, and people all over social media — it has been nothing but love,” she shares. This overwhelming support has further boosted her confidence as a designer, encouraging her to continue pushing the boundaries of her creativity.

For up-and-coming designers, Tennant emphasizes the importance of trusting your vision. “Always know and trust in your vision,” she advises. Clear planning and preparation are essential, especially when it comes to styling, accessories, and ensuring the perfect fit for each model. Flexibility and adaptability throughout the process are also key.

Each new project brings growth, and The W Fashion Show was no exception for Tennant. “The W Fashion Show pushed me to level up my designs and increased my confidence as a designer,” she reflects. The experience of showcasing her work to hundreds of people required resilience and focus, and Tennant rose to the challenge.

At the heart of Tennant’s collection is a powerful message. “Through my collection, I hoped to convey that there is beauty in the changing of the seasons, and beauty in the contrast of urban living and nature,” she explains. But beyond that, she wants every woman who wears Blu Reign to feel confident and empowered. With "Urban Equinox," Jade Tennant has set the stage for a promising future in fashion, one that celebrates change, contrasts, and the enduring strength of women.

DEFIED

Designer Emily Harbottle, founder of luxury fashion brand DEFIED, made waves at The W Fashion Week 2024, held at MercedesBenz World in London. Being invited to showcase at such a prestigious event was a career highlight for Emily, who found the experience both thrilling and inspiring, especially meeting fellow designers and creators. The models, captivated by the stunning metallic fabrics and impeccable craftsmanship of the garments, were full of praise even before the collection hit the runway.

Emily’s debut collection stole the show, wowing the audience with its timeless yet modern 80s-inspired aesthetic. Liquid golds, shimmering metallic batwing dresses, and bold open-back and plunge necklines dominated the stage, exuding confidence and luxury. The collection seamlessly blended high-fashion trends with a striking nod to retro glamour, solidifying DEFIED as a brand to watch in the fashion world.

DEFIED is not just about creating beautiful clothes; it's a movement against fast fashion. Emily’s vision is rooted in sustainability, empowering women to embrace fashion that is both luxurious and environmentally conscious. By using sustainable fabric sources and encouraging consumers to invest

in high-quality, timeless pieces, DEFIED aims to reduce the carbon footprint of the industry. Based in the UK but quickly gaining international attention, the brand’s ethos is clear: buy less, but buy better.

Emily’s journey of self-empowerment and emotional healing played a central role in shaping her first collection. Drawing from her personal experiences, she designed bold, empowering silhouettes—think sharp shoulder pads, plunging necklines, and open backs. Each piece is meticulously crafted with premium power mesh linings, designed to enhance the wearer’s confidence, making them feel both sexy and secure. The luxurious quality of DEFIED’s designs reflects Emily’s passion for fashion and selfexpression, promising a future of even more powerful collections.

With plans already underway to showcase at Paris, London, and Milan Fashion Weeks next year, DEFIED is poised for international success. Emily’s next collection will focus on sustainable luxury organics, blending style with a deep sense of purpose. As she continues to channel raw emotion and passion into her work, DEFIED is set to deliver even more striking, empowering designs— offering a mix of sustainable daywear and eveningwear that will surely leave a lasting impact on the fashion landscape.

HAUL

Haul is an apparel brand that injects a dose of positivity into your wardrobe. The brand creates vibrant, mood-boosting pieces that combine bold block colours with playful graphics and a touch of cheeky humour. Haul's goal is to elevate everyday essentials with a functional, sporty aesthetic, inspiring confidence and a little fun in daily life.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Haul: Our collection was inspired by a blend of 70s/80s films, sportswear, street signage, graphics, vintage catalogues, and objects.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Haul: Sustainability is paramount in our products. Our creative process began by sourcing premium surplus sportswear fabrics and investigating vintage sportswear. This led to short cut block-coloured tracksuits cut in Italian scuba and sports jerseys, accompanied by organic cotton beach towels and tote bags.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

H: Sourcing surplus fabric, trims, and organic cotton in time and on budget was a constant challenge, despite working with London-based factories for all our clothing production.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

H: This collection accurately represents our style: bright, bold, and upbeat. Through every collection, we aim to boost people's moods and inspire them in their daily lives.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

H: We plan to host a pre-Christmas pop-up shop at Soho House or in partnership with Appear Here.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

H: Like most runway shows, there was an element of stress, which ultimately converted into the high energy of the show.

TW: What feedback have you received from

the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

H: We've received positive feedback from various people, including the press, models, and industry professionals.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

H: Believe in yourself and don't stop until you achieve your goals.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

H: Seeing our collection on the runway, worn by various models in both glamorous RTW matching co-ords and a pared-down streetwear approach, has strengthened our understanding of the collection's wide appeal and versatility.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

H: Our products are the mood elevator you need. Bold block colors, tongue-in-cheek graphics, and bright prints are applied to classic staple pieces, resulting in a functional and sporty aesthetic.

Voglia SWIMWEAR

At this year's The W Fashion Week 2024, founder and creative visionary Ashley-Victoria Smith from Voglia Swimwear mesmerized the audience with her latest collection titled "Chrysalis." Drawing inspiration from one of her favorite French impressionists, Claude Monet, Smith transformed her admiration for nature into a collection that celebrates metamorphosis and personal growth.

The collection centers around two distinctive prints: ‘Pond Life’ and ‘Royal Butterflies’, with the butterfly motif taking the spotlight. "Butterflies symbolize transformation, reminding us that change is okay, and we all must go through our own metamorphosis," Smith explained. Inspired by Monet's impressionist masterpieces, the collection echoes the fluidity and beauty of nature, offering a visual reflection of inner transformation.

True to Voglia Swimwear’s slow-fashion philosophy, this collection was thoughtfully crafted over a year, with careful attention to detail. Smith doesn’t believe in adhering to seasonal trends, focusing instead on creating purposeful collections. "The print

for Chrysalis was hand-painted, and every element—from brush strokes to the placement of the butterflies—was chosen with intent," she shared. The meticulous process of selecting colors and translating the design onto fabric highlights her commitment to sustainability and artistry.

Though "Chrysalis" might not fully reflect her signature style, Smith shared how personal this collection is for her. "I’m journeying through my own metamorphosis, and this collection allows me to show that evolution."

The symbolism of the butterfly served as a reminder of her own transformation, making the pieces even more meaningful.

Following the success at The W Fashion Week, Smith is already gearing up for Miami Swim Week in May. With several collaborations in progress, she is excited to unveil her upcoming collection in the vibrant setting of Miami, continuing her journey through fashion and personal growth.

One of the standout features of the collection is the exclusivity of the prints. "Everyone loves the prints because they are exclusive—each collection is limited-edition," she noted. This exclusivity sets Voglia Swimwear apart,

offering a unique, one-of-a-kind appeal that resonates with both the fashion community and customers.

For designers aspiring to showcase their work at major fashion events, Smith emphasizes the importance of storytelling. "Be sure to tell a story and present a cohesive collection. Avoid random designs with mismatched prints. Your audience needs to understand your vision."

Presenting at The W Fashion Week has been a significant milestone for Voglia Swimwear, opening doors to the UK and European

markets. "Allowing my brand to reach the UK and European markets has been very important to me so being able to showcase in London was definitely an opportunity I am grateful for.”

In conclusion, Chrysalis is more than just a collection—it’s a message of transformation. As Smith poignantly stated, "What’s death to a caterpillar is life to a butterfly. We must embrace change, trust that the Universe works for us, and sometimes, we just need to spread our wings and fly." Through her designs, she invites us all to embrace our own metamorphosis.

ZoeHoop JEWELRY

ZOE HOOP’s Scandinavian-inspired jewelry offers more than just style— it weaves powerful biblical messages into each piece, creating a deeper connection with its wearers. Handcrafted from reclaimed silver in Thailand, the brand empowers women by providing them with sustainable livelihoods, helping them support their families and send their children to school. Since its launch in 2019, ZOE HOOP has garnered attention from several top fashion publications. Designer Caroline’s stunning creations have also graced the runways of Paris and New York Fashion Weeks, and the brand has even been twice invited to the Super Bowl by the NFL Off the Field Wives.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Caroline: I am inspired by several bible verses and classic Scandinavian simplicity as I create my pieces.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Caroline: I pray over a bible chapter for instance Psalm 23 where the Shepherd's rod and staff stands out. I was suddenly awake one night and saw the Shepherd's staff on the roof and saw how the rods were placed on it, formed into a cross. That's how the idea of the Shepherd's Cross came to me. Then we made a silver cross from my sketches and sent it to the manufacturing plant in Thailand where (70%) female artisans make them by hand from recycled purified sterling silver. (They can provide for their families and send their children to school.) Then they ship them to me in Sweden and I sell them online after taking pictures.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

C: The biggest challenge was to find a supplier with good working conditions and salaries in a developing country. Then the second hardest thing is communication and cultural differences. The easiest way would have been to produce in Europe. But if you want to make a change according to the UN Sustainable Development Goals, we need to help the people in developing countries, especially women.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

C: All my pieces reflect Scandinavian simplicity and behind every design, there is purpose.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

C: One of the greatest joys in my life is sharing my testimony, which I will do in

several places this fall. It means so much to me to inspire others to dare to follow their dreams. You have unique gifts that no one else has, and the world truly needs you. I am also proud to have my pieces featured in Vanity Fair UK and British Vogue again.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

C: Since the invitation came the week before I had a very short time to prepare, luckily I received all my new samples for the spring collection the same week! I really enjoyed showing at the W runaway show during London Fashion Week. I have only been showing in Paris and New York before.

TW: What feedback have you received from the fashion community since the show, and how has it influenced your future designs?

C: The feedback has been really encouraging! A lot of people were intrigued by the way faith and fashion came together, and it sparked some great conversations. It’s definitely inspired me to keep pushing

the boundaries, finding new ways to weave christian symbolism into modern, wearable art. I’m excited to see where this journey leads!

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

C: My biggest advice is to stay authentic to your vision and be prepared for challenges along the way. Fashion weeks are fast-paced and can be overwhelming, so having a strong sense of your identity as a designer will help you stay grounded. Also, don’t underestimate the importance of networking—building relationships with other designers, stylists, and creatives can open doors. And, most importantly, be flexible! Things rarely go as planned, but if you can adapt, the experience will be worth it.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

C: This experience has contributed so much to my growth as a designer. It pushed me out of my comfort zone and made me more

adaptable, especially with unexpected challenges like the fire alarm! I’ve definitely learned the importance of asking more questions and being more involved with the project managers and team—there were quite a few things that slipped through the cracks during the show. Moving forward, I’ll make sure everything is aligned and wellprepared. Overall, it’s taught me to balance my creative vision with practical details while staying flexible in the process.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

C: Through this collection, I wanted to convey a message of faith, resilience, and purpose. Each piece was inspired by biblical themes and stories, symbolizing the journey of overcoming challenges and finding strength through faith. I hoped to show that fashion can be more than just aesthetic—it can carry deeper meaning and inspire reflection. Ultimately, I wanted people to see that there’s beauty in both the struggles and the victories, and that faith can be woven into every part of life, including what we wear.

Murmaid, the brainchild of two Parsons University graduates, Deborah Meirelles from São Paulo and Ximena De Zorzi from Buenos Aires, is redefining fashion with its unique blend of creativity and collaboration. After receiving Haute Couture training at École Lesage and working with prestigious brands like Vivienne Westwood, Oscar de la Renta, and Stella McCartney, the duo set out to create something different. Launching their studio from a small Paris apartment, they envisioned a fashion space that broke away from the industry’s toxic norms—eschewing competitiveness, rigid hierarchies, and narrow definitions of size and gender.

Murmaid’s process is rooted in collective creativity, where every team member, all designers, contributes equally to the making of each piece. Through deconstruction, embroidery, dyeing, and stitching, they give new life to discarded materials, embracing sustainability as a core principle. Their work symbolizes renewal, as they continuously repurpose waste into bold, innovative designs. With this approach, Murmaid embodies a vision of fashion that is not only collaborative but also environmentally conscious, paving the way for a more sustainable future in the industry.

The W: What was the primary inspiration behind your collection showcased at The W Fashion Week 2024?

Murmaid: This collection is about a trip back into the garden of Eden. A time of perfection where you could find the perfect balance between nature and the human being. Creativity as a form of beauty and expression and not productivity. A time where there was respect for processes and craft, where the drive to create was not possessed by demand but by innocence and art.

The W: Can you walk us through your creative process, from the initial concept to the final pieces that we saw on the runway?

Murmaid: The collection reflects an innocent desire to create for the sake of being — Being true to ourselves, to our imagination, and more importantly: to our vision. This collection is about the very beginning of our brand and everything we have learned on this journey, but also the vision of an “Eden”, which we want to always come back to. We went through a nostalgic creative process of looking at our first projects, getting inspired by who we were back then and who we want to be in the future. Our creative process is stimulated by existing materials. We get inspiration from what is damaged, stained or old and we deconstruct, dye, embroider, transform and rebuild a completely new thing.

TW: What were some of the challenges you faced while creating this collection, and how did you overcome them?

M: Our pieces are always one of a kind, when we create a collection we have to search

for unique vintage pieces and curate them. One of the biggest challenges is exactly this process of always having to go out and search for materials almost weekly. We consider ourselves not only designers but collectors of materials and remakers of our generation.

TW: How does this collection reflect your signature style?

M: Fashion as a practice has been abusing its own process for years. Designers nowadays focus on fulfilling a number of styles, seasons and trends instead of questioning the system itself. We are not interested in doing several collections by season with a crazy amount of pieces that no one needs. Our input to the fashion industry comes from re-inventing existing materials and a philosophy of life of consuming less and respecting our planet. This collection reflects our core ideology of a respect for craft and its translation into our unique styles and colors and textile manipulations.

TW: What are your plans for the future after The W Fashion Week? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations you're excited about?

M: Right after The W Fashion Week, we are participating in a showroom in Milano and presenting our collection to buyers. We are very excited to start entering different markets and building a community of people who appreciate and also understand our take on upcycling and slow fashion.

TW: How was your experience preparing for and presenting at The W Fashion Week 2024? Did it meet your expectations?

M: Honestly, we received the invitation one week before the show. We rushed to be prepared and ready, but arrived at an extremely unorganized event and we were quite disappointed by the organization. I almost lost my train back to Paris because the show was delayed and stopped for some reason and the coaches were very late so I had to take a very expensive Uber. We had no shoes provided by you guys, no stylists, the hair and makeup was completely random. It was extremely chaotic.

TW: What advice would you give to other emerging designers looking to showcase their work at a major fashion week?

M: Overnight success is ten years of hard

work. It is a tough industry but if you really love it, it is 100% worth the struggle.

TW: How do you feel this experience has contributed to your growth as a designer?

M: It was good practice for working under pressure while keeping the calm and good spirit for the team.

TW: What message or story were you hoping to convey through this collection?

M: As designers we understand the need for a sustainable practice not as a demand from our world or industry, but as a tool to live in harmony and respect to the world we live in. The collection reflects an innocent desire to create for the sake of being — Being true to ourselves, to our imagination, and more importantly: to our vision. This collection is about the very beginning of our brand and everything we have learned on this journey, but also the vision of an “Eden”, which we want to always come back to.

Our input to the fashion industry comes from re-inventing existing materials and a philosophy of life of consuming less and respecting our planet.

LIAM BRANDON MURRAY

BRANDON MURRAY

Karina IMMANUEL

Inspired by the appreciation for individuality, Karina Immanuel aspires to craft the perfect companion to complement your self-expression. Each piece is meticulously crafted with attention to detail, using the finest materials sourced from Italy and England. By supporting local artisans and prioritizing eco-conscious production, Karina Immanuel ensures that every item reflects both style and ethical values.

Bouqui GLAMHOUSE

GLAMHOUSE

Hailing from the vibrant heart of Nigeria, Bouqui Glamhouse is a rising fashion designer captivating the global stage with a unique fusion of cultural richness and modern elegance.

Based in London, Bouqui Glamhouse meticulously crafts each piece with materials sourced from Nigeria, celebrating the country's unparalleled variety of quality fabrics, luxurious appliqués, and sparkling rhinestones. By blending these exquisite elements with London’s cutting-edge manufacturing, Bouqui Glamhouse not only honours their heritage but also elevates it to new heights, offering a fresh and opulent perspective on contemporary fashion.

SOIXANTETHREE

SOIXANTETHREE

Soixantethree is a brand dedicated to bridging the gap between fashion and faith. With a commitment to merging contemporary fashion with profound spiritual expression, Soixantethree redefines what it means to wear your faith on your sleeve—literally and figuratively.

UPSYCLE

GANGSTERUS

GANGSTERUS

Zhania STUDIOS

Zhania offers a distinctive opportunity to showcase your individuality and support sustainability through fashion. By choosing Zhania, customers are endorsing ethical production and investing in a durable wardrobe that will endure for years. The brand's offerings blend unique and cutting-edge designs with ecofriendly materials, ensuring a style that defies time and fads.

TRAVEL INFINITE

Travel Infinite is a streetwear brand inspired by the beauty of travel and the power of connection. Its designs celebrate the diversity of cultures and lifestyles, bringing people together through fashion, offering an exclusive and unique collection of high-quality clothing for everyone. The brand is built on the belief that fashion should be accessible and sustainable, allowing individuals to express their personal style while making a positive impact on the world.

ITELE

Born out of a deep passion for quality craftsmanship, Itele is a luxury footwear brand dedicated to creating timeless, handcrafted men's loafers using the finest materials.

Originally founded in Nigeria by Seyi Agboola, Itele has grown into a household brand. Now reimagined for the global stage, Itele brings its legacy of elegance, durability, and sustainability to the UK and beyond.

Every pair of shoes is crafted with attention to detail, merging traditional techniques with contemporary design.

MOUF

Mouf is a clothing brand that utilizes fashion as a platform for activism and advocacy. By merging style with social consciousness, Mouf empowers young people to speak up against pressing social and political issues.

Through their carefully designed apparel, Mouf delivers powerful messages that spark conversations and inspire action. Each piece is more than just clothing; it's a statement, a symbol of solidarity, and a call for change. Mouf's designs are crafted with both aesthetic appeal and social impact in mind, ensuring that every garment serves as a tool for positive transformation.

By wearing Mouf, individuals become part of a movement, expressing their values and contributing to a larger cause. Mouf's clothing empowers wearers to feel confident, stylish, and connected to a community of likeminded individuals who are passionate about making a difference.

Mouf's commitment to activism extends beyond their products. They actively engage with social movements, collaborate with organizations, and support initiatives that promote positive change. By aligning fashion with advocacy, Mouf creates a space for young people to express themselves, connect with others, and drive social progress.

In a world where fashion often takes center stage, Mouf offers a refreshing perspective, demonstrating the power of clothing to inspire, empower, and effect change. By choosing Mouf, individuals not only make a fashion statement but also contribute to a movement that is shaping a better future.

FASHION WEEKThe Report

Report by Emily Duff, Miranda Heinrich, Joshua Pasquale, Natasha Sackx, Sahira Dharamshi, Esha Lalwani and Emma Trimboli

As the curtain falls on another season of the Big Four Fashion Weeks—New York, London, Milan, and Paris— it's time to reflect on the unforgettable runway moments and trendsetting collections that dominated the global stage. From high-glamour shows to avant-garde designs, these fashion capitals continue to set the tone for the industry. However, while the spotlight often shines on established powerhouses, there's a new wave of platforms dedicated to elevating the voices of emerging designers and creatives.

This issue, we explore not only the highlights from the Big Four, but also take a closer look at a groundbreaking fashion week platform that’s shaking up the industry; The W Fashion Week. Prioritizing and profiling burgeoning talent from diverse backgrounds, this platform is creating space for the next generation of designers, giving them the visibility and recognition they deserve. Step into a world where innovation meets inclusivity, and discover the future of fashion.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SS25

Words Natasha Sackx

As the cameras begin to flash and lights continuously glisten, all eyes turn to New York Fashion Week, where glamour and anticipation run high for the upcoming SS25.

New York is the first major city to be transformed by the beauty that is Fashion Week. As the fresh cool breeze of September sets in, Fashion Week spreads throughout the capital cities carrying a spotlight with it as it travels around the world. First stop New York City.

Proenza Schouler opened SS25 with a calm and organized show where structure met flow. The main standouts were stripes, blues and an almost business casual approach. Founders and Creative Directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showcased nautical themes with a modern representation.

The following day, Ralph Lauren launched their SS25 collection with a more intimate crowd in the Hamptons.

Now moving the spotlight over to Area, a smaller known brand, displayed their collection specializing in quality craftsmanship and innovative embellishments. Founded in its home of New York City by designers Piotrek Panszczyk

and Beckett Fogg, this season Area encapsulated a spacey and futuristic mood which definitely left an imprint!

A prominent highlight was Tommy Hilfiger embarking on the Staten Island Ferry!

An up-and-coming brand, Toteme, gained a boost in recognition recently and displayed their debut collection at NYFW. COS, a seasoned veteran, had yet another successful production. Michael Kors preceded and was followed by Luar. The brand Ronald Van Der Kemp celebrated their 10th year anniversary. The winner of 2023 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, Melitta Baumeister, debuted her collection and closed New York Fashion Week.

Some interesting takes were Thom Browne and Helmut Lang opting out of this NYFW.

Events wise, Highsnobiety took over NYC with their new edition of “Not in New York”. Barneys made a comeback to New York in the form of a pop-up, where the old (and new) brands and trends are discovered.

New York Fashion Week continues to illuminate the path for famous and unknown designers and brands to highlight their collections. As the spotlight transfers over to London, the fashion month of September continues onward!

The Bold and the Unconventional Reign at London Fashion Week SS25

By Joshua Pasquale

London Fashion Week celebrated its 40th anniversary this year, marked by the energy and innovation that has defined its legacy. While Paris, New York, and Milan may be the obvious choices when people think of fashion capitals, London continues to be the underdog. The enfant terrible of the fashion world. Always pushing boundaries, London provides a platform for emerging designers and creative minds to flourish.

Here are the top highlights from London Fashion Week SS25, showcasing why the uncanny and unconventional rule here.

BURBERRY LEADS THE PACK

Burberry, synonymous with British fashion, remains a London Fashion Week staple. All eyes were on the brand’s creative director, Daniel Lee, this season, as he sought to balance tradition with innovation after a challenging first quarter for the brand. This collection didn’t break new ground in terms of boldness but took a necessary step towards accessibility. Lee pared back the colour palette, choosing to focus on form, tailoring, and accessories. The star-studded show featured brutalist cargo shorts and sharp-cropped trenches, showcasing the resilience of British fashion. Even in the trenches of adversity, Lee found triumph. Buerlangma Peaks to New Heights

If any collection encapsulates what makes London Fashion Week so extraordinary, it’s Buerlangma’s Capsule 5. Known for its bold silhouettes, Buerlangma delivered an aweinspiring spectacle that left both attendees and social media buzzing.

Lace facepieces were paired with futuristic fabrics and shapes, blending tradition with the avant-garde. Rooted in Buddhism, with ‘BUER’ symbolising uniqueness and ‘LANGMA’ representing the world’s highest mountain, Buerlangma’s SS25 collection didn’t just shatter the ceiling, it transcended it.

Harris Reed: The Past Meets the Future London is a city steeped in history, yet always looking forward – a duality reflected in its fashion. Harris Reed’s SS25 collection

exemplified this tension between the past and future. Drawing inspiration from archival Vivienne Westwood and McQueen shows, Reed also embraced the charm of vintage English porcelain dolls with his latest collection ‘ENCORE’.

UK makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury’s ethereal doll-like makeup complemented the collection perfectly, resulting in a look that felt both nostalgic and innovative –distinctly London.

Harry Styles and Steven Stokey-Daley Turn Heads

After a tough year for UK retail, London Fashion Week SS25 needed a big moment, and Steven StokeyDaley’s debut womenswear collection, with Harry Styles in attendance, delivered. Styles, sporting a mullet and a new minority stake in S.S.Daley, brought added buzz to the event. Stokey-Daley’s collection, with its bright peach and cream palettes, beaded floral motifs, and quirky styling, showcased the whimsical grandeur of London fashion. Handsewn tailoring and a deep respect for womenswear cemented his first foray into the category as a success, providing a morale boost for London Fashion Week.

Labrum London Breaks Ground at Emirates Stadium

Labrum London, a brand built by immigrants for immigrants, brought a politically resonant collection to the table this season. With anti-immigrant sentiment sweeping the UK earlier this summer, Labrum London’s show at Emirates Stadium was a timely reminder of the richness and diversity immigrants bring to the fashion scene.

power to unite.

Top Style Trends at London Fashion Week SS25

Founder and creative director Foday Dumbuya drew inspiration from his own immigrant journey and the textures of West African and Indian influences. With Arsenal’s Declan Rice making an appearance, Labrum London’s ‘Designed by an Immigrant: Journey of Triumphs’ broke new ground, proving that fashion has the

All About That Lace Lace facepieces, embroidery, and accents gave London Fashion Week a sultry, classic edge. Black and sheer fabrics dominated, creating sophisticated yet daring looks. Big, Bold, and Beautiful

London’s penchant for playfulness continued to shine this season, with audacious silhouettes that set social media alight.

While not always accessible, these bold designs reign supreme in the digital age.

Dolled Up

London’s designers showed no hesitation in embracing doll-like aesthetics, with Lolita-inspired dresses, glossy makeup, and Victorian floral motifs adding a whimsical, nostalgic touch to the season.

London Fashion Week SS25 once again proved that boldness, creativity, and the unconventional are woven into the very fabric of the city’s fashion scene. With a legacy built on innovation and a future that welcomes diversity, London remains the place where the unexpected thrives.

40 YEARS OF LONDON FASHION WEEK

By Emily Duff

As London Fashion Week (LFW) concludes its 40th anniversary celebrations and fashion week season comes to an end, the interseason provides the perfect moment to look back on some of its most iconic moments and milestones. From a modest debut in a Kensington car park in 1984 to its position today as one of the "Big Four" fashion weeks, LFW has undeniably made its mark.

1984 - Organised by the British Fashion Council (BFC), founded just a year prior, for the London Development Agency with help from the Department for Business, Innovation, and Skills, the inaugural LFW took place during February 1984. Hosted in West London with just 15 catwalk shows in total, each collection was presented in the Commonwealth Institute's car park in Kensington. Despite its humble start, among the designers showing were many household names from Vivienne Westwood to John Galliano. Infamously, the latter, who presented his graduate show ‘Les Incroyables’, had his entire collection bought by Joan Burstein of the London fashion boutique ‘Browns’.

With a cocktail reception at Number 10 to celebrate the event, designer Katharine Hamnett caused an infamous pop culture moment by wearing an anti-nuclear slogan tee to meet the then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. Sparking conversations about politics in fashion, Hamnett’s shirt read “58% Don’t Want Pershing” in reference to a European opinion poll on America's controversial Pershing II guided missile being deployed in West Germany. Hamnett went on to win the first Designer of the Year award that same year.

1988 - Princess Diana, a fashion icon in her own right, made her first appearance at a charity show for the London Designer Show held to raise funds for various causes. Her presence was a rarity and brought unprecedented media attention which highlighted the rising significance of British designers at the time

1989 - Aged just fifteen, Kate Moss made her LFW and launched a career that would define an era of British fashion. Modelling for John Galliano for her debut show, Moss wore a translucent black mesh slip dress that was emblematic of Galliano's daring, romantic style. This look was simple but quite provocative for its time. With a natural, slightly shy walk on the runway, this show marked the move away from theatricality and boldness of the ‘80 and towards the “heroin chic” style she was synonymous with in the 1990s.

1993 - An unforgettable moment; Naomi Campbell’s iconic catwalk stumble. Wearing 12 inch tall platforms for Vivienne Westwood. The blue platform shoes feature a leather mock crocodile design and blue silk ribbon laces dubbed the ‘Super Elevated Ghillie’. Although an incident that would ruin most supermodel’s careers, Campbell simply laughed it off and cemented her status as a fashion legend.

In the same year, the British Fashion Council introduced the New Gen scheme, also known as BFC NEWGEN, to support emerging fashion designers across the nation. A scheme that still runs to this day, its goals are to “ build the future of global, responsible fashion brands.” Giving rise to stars like Alexander McQueen, today, the program remains consistent with £2 million recently allocated to support emerging talent

1995 - Marking Stella McCartney's debut show, and arguably the most infamous Central Saint Martins (CSM) graduate collection, her graduation collection was modelled by friends like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, making it a high-profile debut. Although McCartney would later move her shows to Paris, her London debut remains an important milestone . While some view it as a fashion moment that amplified the platform of an emerging designer, others argue McCartney used her influence, wealth, and connections at the disadvantage of her peers. Quickly becoming the creative director of Chloé aged just 25 and as a hugely successful designer whose name almost eclipses her fathers, it seems she made the right move.

1999 - In one of the most unforgettable fashion moments, model Shalom Harlow was spray-painted live on stage by robotic arms during Alexander McQueen’s SS99 show, blurring the lines between fashion and performance art.

The following season during Julien Macdonald’s SS00 show, Mel B of the Spice Girls took to the runway in a sheer pink gown. As one of the UK’s most influential pop acts, Scary Spice’s appearance marked the fusion of pop culture and high fashionand helped make this show one of the era's most talked-about events.

2000 - With one notorious moment just a year prior, Hussein Chalayan’s AW00 show presented another. With a runway full of dark wood furniture, models put on the garments strewn across the chairs in a palette of soft red, pink, and greys. Seemingly typical, until model Tanya Peneva stepped into the middle of what appeared to be a wooden coffee table. As time progressed and Peneva pulled the table slowly up, it started to unveil itself as a telescope shaped dress. Aside from being a very complex and fresh design, it also provided commentary on restriction and movement. This runway show is widely considered one of the best fashion shows of all time.

Again, the subsequent season showcased music and fashion’s growing relationship. At Philip Treacy's SS01 show Grace Jones made an appearance dancing on the roof of a white limousine that was parked on the runway. The most prominent part of Jones’ look was an oversized, sculptural metallic headpiece that had a reflective, helmet-like quality. Beneath the headpiece, Jones wore a sheer black bodysuit and towering heels, bringing in the party girl elements of the decade.

2001 - McQueen's show, Voss, is one of the most talked-about moments in fashion history, not just LFW. Known for his outrageous concepts, this collection was set in a padded, mirrored box resembling a psychiatric hospital. Just as people thought the show was over, heart monitor sounds beeped across the room until the heartbeat sound flatlined and the sides of the box fell

and smashed onto the ground revealing a nude, plus-sized woman surrounded by moths was seen wearing a breathing mask with tubes attached to the body. With moths typically seen as an ugly version of a butterfly and larger women not being represented in the media, it was a way for McQueen to challenge beauty standards and notions of what the status quo should look like. It was theatrical, haunting, thoughtprovoking, and quintessentially McQueen.

2006 - Christopher Kane’s first LFW show became one of the most memorable debuts, showcasing the raw talent of young British designers. The SS07 collection featured form-fitting neon bandage dresses that became THE trendy dress of Y2K clubbing scenes - spotted on everyone from Lindsay Lohan to The Bling Ring to teenagers around the world.

Of the renowned dresses, Kane said: "It's really weird because I never meant to design club clothes. I only used neon…because it was my first collection and I wanted to go as bright as possible."

2007 - Matthew Williamson’s SS08 catwalk celebrated 10 years in the industry with a surprise appearance from Prince, who performed ‘Chelsea Rodgers’ as models strutted past him. Prince wore a sleek, tailored lavender suit, a signature colour often associated with the ‘Purple Rain’ musician. Williamson told Grazia in 2016 that Prince had approached him for the collaboration “as his girlfriend at the time, Chelsea Rodgers, was a fan.”

2009 - Despite being a classically British brand with a long history, Christopher Bailey brought Burberry back to London Fashion Week in 2009 after years of showing in Milan. This marked a pivotal moment for British fashion, as Burberry’s return added significant prestige.

This year was also the first global fashion week to embrace digital platforms by live-streaming shows to reach a broader audience worldwide. Burberry led the way with its then-revolutionary digital fashion experiment of live-stream shopping for the See Now Buy Now (SNBN) business model movement.

2010 - Naomi Campbell's ‘Fashion For Relief Haiti’ show was nothing short of starstudded. Dressed in Alexander McQueen, Campbell, Kate Moss and Annabelle Neilson paid tribute to the late designer. The trio opened the show at Somerset House in February 2010 wearing blue mini-dresses from his last collection, Spring/Summer 2010. The event raised over £1 million with all of the clothing being auctioned online to raise money for the White Ribbon Alliance's work with the survivors of the Haitian earthquake.

2013 - The first notable appearance of a plus-size model at London Fashion Week occurred in February 2013. This event coincided with the debut of the British

Plus-Size Fashion Weekend, an alternative to the main event, which aimed to highlight the lack of body diversity on mainstream runways.

Jada Sezer, a prominent size 16-18 model, was the face of the season, symbolising a shift towards more inclusivity for curvier women in fashion. While plus-size models had started gaining visibility elsewhere, this was a significant milestone for London Fashion Week, raising awareness of the need for broader body representation in the fashion industry that has continued to increase across the last decade.

2014 - For his AW13 collection, JW Anderson took traditionally masculine silhouettes and slightly modified the shapes to force the audience to question what exactly constitutes menswear. This was done by adding ruffles to the end of boots and shorts, shortening hem lines, and adding pleats to push the boundaries of what can be considered menswear. Known for his pioneering work in gender-neutral fashion, his work has helped cement LFW as a platform for innovative, forward-thinking fashion.

2015 - Molly Goddard's first solo presentation at London Fashion Week came in 2015, where she quickly gained attention for her playful, voluminous tulle dresses. Her designs were an immediate hit, propelling her to the forefront of the British fashion scene - soon worn by Villanelle, the Killing Eve assassin played by Jodie Comer. Donning a huge pink scene-stealing smock dress in Paris, the TV moment proved that, regardless of failing her MA at CSM, Goddard was about to become an iconic name in fashion.

2017 - At Bobby Abley's show in June, Dipsy, one of the four fictional characters from the children's show Teletubbies, made his fashion week debut. The bright green small screen persona wasn’t as out of place as it may seem, as the collection drew on-thenose inspiration from the TV series by presenting hairstyles reminiscent of their bright colour shapes and depictions of them across both the garments and accessories.

2018 - A landmark event, Queen Elizabeth II made her first appearance - sat beside Anna Wintour on the front row, of course. Attending Richard Quinn’s AW18 show, she presented him with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Aside from his groundbreaking designs, Quinn ultimately took home the accolade for his open-access print studio in Peckham which offers affordable services and educational print and textile workshops.

The year also marked Victoria Beckham’s first official London Fashion Week show . Although Beckham launched her label in 2008, she originally showcased her collections at New York Fashion Week. Celebrating her brand's 10th anniversary, marrying the American and British backgrounds, the collection departed from her usual monochrome colour scheme and

structured designs with garments including a sky blue satin camisole paired with mustard toned slouchy trousers inspired by a painting from the New York-based British artist Nicola Tyson.

It was an extremely busy year, as Christopher Bailey’s farewell show for Burberry also made waves in fashion history. Closed by Cara Delevingne, she wore a statementmaking rainbow fur coat, representing a bold stand for LGBTQ+ community. Not only did it visually champion queer rights, but TheRainbowCheck collection also donated to three LGBT charities including The Albert Kennedy Trust, The Trevor Project, and the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association (ILGA), PinkNews reported. In a statement from the show notes, Bailey said, "My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to - and in support ofsome of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity.”

2020 - Covid turned fashion week on its head, but London overcame the inconvenience by turning to a fully digital format - the first city to do so. Supported by JD, the first digital London Fashion Week featured videos on their website. An unusual pairing, sportswear meets high fashion, it ultimately increased exposure for the brands involved and helped improve recognition among JD customers. The new event was also gender-neutral, meaning that menswear, womenswear and genderless shows will be merged together.

2024 - LFW has grown tremendously in both scale and social awareness.

Animal rights campaigners can rejoice. As of February 2024, fur was officially banned from LFW. The British Fashion Council (BFC) announced the ban in December 2023, and it became part of the application process for brands.

LFW is also now considered one of the most inclusive fashion weeks, praised for its diversity in design and casting spearheaded by designers like Karoline Vitto and Sinéad O'Dwyer.

Increasing more than 16x its original size, SS25 featured more than 250 designers. The event now spans five days and has expanded to accommodate both emerging designers and established names from LABRUM and Sinead Gorey to Vivienne Westwood and Erdem.

The Backstage Buzz at The W Fashion Week 2024 Runway Show

By Sahira Dharamshi

A collective commotion of creativity backstage as stylists, makeup artists and models prep to walk the runway at the W fashion show.

For many, along with myself, it’s our first time to be amidst the London Fashion Week (LFW) creative magic, not as spectators but in the thick of it all. Making this occasion even more special is the fact LFW is celebrating their 40th annual year.

Nerves, excitement and all the jittery feelings in between is what helps make the energy so special. Excited and eager to showcase our creative work, it’s hard to know what to take in first during fashion week. For me, it was the opportunity to dive straight into it talking to models, stylists, and makeup

artists backstage as everyone is gearing up for the runway.

Initially tentative and slightly intimidated to step in the way of such focus and preparation but after one quick interview I was able to get the ball rolling eager to hear more about how the various creatives keep calm amidst the backstage storm.

Speaking to one of the models she described feeling “calm but also nervous” revealing how “everyone’s energy’s up and the good vibes” all around were helping to settle the first show nerves.

Next, I got to interview a pair of hair and makeup artists and listened as they described how the pre-show prep can be. “I think before coming here you’re a bit overwhelmed…but, when you get here the

teachers are very helpful and they’re very hands on in work and they are supporting you. So, it’s really fun and everyone is having a good time and it’s really exciting trying new styles.” This was a pattern emerging and one I could relate to. Everyone was finding their stress reducing speaking to others, collaborating with each other, and realizing everyone was here to have fun, be present and make the most of the opportunity.

Nevertheless, as someone who can at times get overwhelmed with nerves, I was keen to know if nerves and stress ever get to the models and stylists and if so, how to cope with them. One of the makeup artist’s aura had calm written all over it, so she was the first person I asked, “I think I just keep to myself and talk to my friends, hype each other up and try not to stress too much about it.” Another make-up artist described how

“don’t think about timing, don’t listen to the ten-minute warning, just do what you need to do.” Keeping your head down and zoned in on the work to be done ultimately pushes those nervous thoughts out the way. Another artist chimed in describing how “all the models are really understanding” which also helps keep the process smooth and fun.

I was gaining a sense that comradery and dedication to the craft helped many remain in the creative zone. The concentration was evident and being able to witness the laser focus was nothing short of magical as I started asking about any specific creative skills the artists were keen to display. However, the first stylist I spoke to described her current process as “seeing where the creativity takes us”. During the conversation I was able to gain further insight into some

of the styles to be expected on the runway. Apparently, many “slick back styles” were being created thus, stylists were focusing on how they can place their own spin on them. The stylists I was speaking with outlined how their model was going to be sporting a “very clean and sharp” look as a result their focus was on highlighting it whilst adding some “dramatic edges to give it a little something other than a basic slick back.” All the information was just adding to the building excitement for the runway shows.

Next, I got to talk with a seasoned stylist who was mid prep for her second London Fashion Week. She described the energy backstage as “quite intense at first but then you focus on what you’re creating being shown and then you feel good about yourself.” It was comforting to hear, regardless of experience,

feeling an initial overwhelm was normal to begin with but it’s quickly subdued as you get wrapped up in the backstage buzz.

It was also special to witness and be present in the room of individuals seeing their dreams unfold. One of the stylists articulated how “it’s really nice being backstage because I’ve always dreamt about being here and I love being a hair and makeup artist and collaborating.”

I shared in her pinch me moment as the realization also hit, this time last year I was reporting on the various fashion week rundowns, remotely, but this time I get to be here to witness it all firsthand. With that, the first set of LFW interviews, article, and show… all completed. Here’s to many more!

Here's What Happened at The W Fashion Week 2024

By Emma Trimboli

This year marks the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week, a historic milestone celebrating London as a leading cultural capital and platforming the bustling creative community of the city. The W joined the bash on Sunday 15th September with its annual Fashion Week.

Oftentimes fashion events tend to exclude up-and-coming designers in favour of well-known megabrands. The same thing happens here in London, where, despite the city’s cosmopolitan reputation, the fashion and beauty scenes tend to lack diversity. By working together with retailers, community organisations, and industry leaders, The W Fashion Week aims to close this disparity and act as a catalyst for change.

As The W’s Editor-in-Chief, Phadria Antoinette Prendergast works tirelessly to platform national and international companies to get recognised and highlight under-represented and underprivileged talent. The W Fashion Week is centred around the dedication to elevating the visibility of marginalised voices that are reinventing creativity and style. This year, a cohort of 28 designers—ten more than 2023—from six different countries hit The W’s runway at MercedesBenz World to amaze the public with their innovation and craftsmanship.

This year again The W Fashion Week boasted a star-studded group of attendees. From Prendergast herself—who was wearing Diesel and Prada—to TV personalities like Jasmine Johnson and Love Islandwinner Josh Oyinsan, influencers like Balia Adare and Anisa Farah, entrepreneurs like Diamante Dawn Laiva and Samantha Harding, athletes like Wyse and Ollie Hassell-Collins, and models like Josh Legrove and Mataya Sweeting, over 500 attendees graced London’s Mercedes-Benz World. Thanks to the attendees who wowed us with their front-row-ready outfits, the show began before the runway even started!

2024 marks the biggest year yet for The W Fashion Week, with almost thirty designers and brands from all over the world showcasing their collections for a grand total of 193 looks. Liam Brandon Murray, DETARON Couture, Prudence Young, Zhania Studio, MOUF, Iman Grine, Blu Reign, Confidence by Grace, Shauna Courtney, DEFIED + Zoe Hoop Jewelry, Upsycle, Soixantethree, Gangsterus, Travel Infinite, MURMAID, HAUL, Bonifique,

Bav Tailor, Rainbow Dropz, Voglia Swim, Matthew Joseph, Anko + Karina Immanuel, and ZastaStudio + ITELE are all the talented designers who presented their works at The W Fashion Week 2024.

With such a large number of brands on display, The W Fashion Show 2024 had something from everyone. Brands like Bonifique and Voglia Swimwear showed sportswear and athleisure, while Prudence Young, Zhania Studio, ZastaStudio turned heads with their avant-garde and

experimental designs. Bav Tailor’s collection was inspired by holistic practices, but they weren't the only ones tapping into their heritage: Iman Grine blended modern trends with traditional elements of Moroccan culture. Matthew Joseph reflected on societal pressures through his collection No Space to Breathe while brands like Everyday Fit, MOUF, Blu Reign, Detaron Couture, Travel Infinite, Soixantethree, MURMAID, HAUL, and Gangsterus stretched the boundaries of street style and innovation. Both Anko and DEFIED showed their debut collections, the former making a case for modern minimalism and the latter tapping into 1980s nostalgia, while Shauna Courtney and Confidence by Grace showed the perfect capsule wardrobe for the modern woman. Rainbow Dropz and Upsycle brought us back to the 2020 trends of bold crochet creations and upcycled denim. Footwear was provided by ITELE, jewellery by Zoe Hoop Jewelry, and accessories by Karina Immanuel.

The W Fashion Week’s runway reflected many of the current trends we’ve been seeing during Fashion Month so far, in particular when it comes to colours and textures. Muted earthy shades and jewel tones were predominant throughout the almost 200 looks from couture to street wear: muddy greens and browns, mustard and lemon yellows, desaturated blues and pinks spanned designers and collections. Texture play was another standout feature of many designers’ works: tactile pieces in fuzzy, rugged, distressed, and scaly materials added a sensory feel to the runway. The overarching theme was a desire to incorporate an earthy and natural feel into the garments, using colour and texture to draw back to the beauty of nature.

Behind the glitz and glam of the runway show, plenty of hard-working assistants, stylists, make-up artists, and stewards, as well as The W staff, did their best to ensure another successful The W Fashion Week. Until next year!

MILAN FASHION WEEK’S CHAOS AND REVELRY:

Fringe, Feathers, and Madonna

Words Miranda Heinrich

Tasseled, tactile, shimmering.

Italian brands Bottega Veneta, Prada, Gucci, Diesel and many other household names carried a balanced dose of experimentation to SS25, departing from their more casual wearable styles that debuted earlier this year at Milan Fashion Week (MFW).

Not known for being particularly avantgarde, the runways in Milan colored their typically traditional, well-tailored glam with a touch of chaotic creativity, flaunting clashing prints, dramatic feathered looks, crinkled fabrics, sheer shift dresses, and even a hint of tech. Visually dazzling, the throwback feel of the looks at MFW seem to mark a departure from the “quiet luxury” trend that was popular in recent years.

While in a group preview, Donatella Versace noted to the press, “I feel it’s fashion’s responsibility to do a little bit to bring people’s spirits up” with her Spring/Summer ’25 collection. Referencing her own designs from the 90s, the gold reflective dress lighting the runway this year was made with 3D printing technology and nods to the iconic metallic mesh dresses from Versace SS’97. Color, joy and nostalgia seem to be recurring themes in not only the Versace show but in all of MFW.

PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/ SUMMER 2025 RECAP

Words Esha Lalwani

From sport to style, Paris is back in the spotlight.

Not long after the 2024 Olympics, our eyes are drawn back as the city brings fashion month to close with the ever so dazzling and highly anticipated Paris Fashion Week. It’s been a season of elegance, edge, and evolution. From dramatic silhouettes to playful stylings, here are some key takeaways and moments from PFW SS25.

NOSTALGIA MEETS NOVELTY

Each year, brands explore the balance of upholding their rich heritage while simultaneously embracing modern innovation, and this year is no exception. With brands like Dior revisiting and reviving archives, designers reimagined classic aesthetics while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion, converging nostalgia and novelty.

SURREALISM AND ARTISTIC FLAIR

Surrealism made a notable impact this season, especially in Balmain’s collection, where bold visual elements and striking silhouettes challenged conventional beauty standards. Designers incorporated dramatic patterns and unexpected materials, creating wearable works of art. Many designers brought their creative A-game to the stage with brands like Dior featuring archer SAGG Napoli firing arrows down the catwalk and Louboutin ditching the runway entirely and taking to the water, filling historic swimming baths with 15 French Olympic swimmers to perform a synchronized routine. This theme of artistry seen throughout the season added a layer of intrigue to the runway, captivating audiences with its imaginative flair and resonating with a generation eager to break away from conventional styles

DEBUTS AND RETURNS

Though there were a few absentees this season, PFW SS25 was alive with long-awaited firsts and comebacks that captivated audiences.

This week marks the first Dries Van

Noten’s show without Dries himself, as he took his final bow after his men’s show in June, as well as the first CHANEL show after the exit of Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld’s handpicked successor; both brands showcasing collections designed by the in-house teams. And, Gabriela Hearst, after three years away, made her return to PFW, following her time as creative director at Chloé. Also returning was Bella Hadid, making her runway comeback at the Saint Laurent show after a two year hiatus.

In another noteworthy moment, Ganni opted to showcase its latest collection at Paris Fashion Week instead of its traditional slot at Copenhagen Fashion Week, highlighting a significant shift for the Scandinavian brand as it positions itself at the forefront of contemporary style and global markets.

And finally, if you haven’t already heard, this season marks Alessandro Michele’s official runway debut as the creative director of Valentino. Following his departure from Gucci in November 2022 and his surprise unveiling of Valentino’s pre-Spring 2025 collection, 'Avant les Débuts,' back in June, the Valentino SS25 show quickly became the most eagerly awaited show this season.

WHAT LIES AHEAD?

As this season comes to a close, Paris has once again solidified its role as the grand finale of global fashion. The SS25 collections left audiences buzzing with excitement and curiosity about upcoming trends.

So, what lies ahead? With designers pushing creative boundaries and embracing artistic expression, the echoes of tradition remain just as important, however, we can expect a continued exploration of personal identity and unique storytelling. Whether through nostalgic revivals or cutting-edge designs, stay tuned— because if this season is any indication, fashion's next act will be even more daring.

Fashion Week is Finally Realising Style; and the Data Proves it

By Emily Duff

At London Fashion Week this season, Spring/Summer 2025, comfort reigned across both runway models and attendees' street style. Heels have been replaced with funky flats, the clean girl look is no more as we embrace maximalist accessories, and jackets are a must-have as the sun starts to disappear earlier and earlier.

Although practical adjustments, this doesn’t mean the fashion wasn’t still fun. Instead, we saw wearable clothing paired with more statement items like gaudy handbags covered in one too many charms, lots of layers, chunky scarf sunglasses combos, and colourful ankle-length socks adding a pop while reducing the likelihood of blisters.

Across shows, small pumps were standout choices, signalling a shift toward more wearable footwear. Notable brands like Tove and JW Anderson contributed to this trend, presenting collections that balanced ease and elegance. Tove, for example, paired draped silk dresses with pointed mules and leather sandals, emphasising comfort and fluidity while retaining sophistication. This collection actually marked Tove’s first step into footwear, using them to complement their relaxed sophisticated ready-to-wear garments.

Designers, Camille Perry and Holly Wright, discussed prioritising wearability in their work. "It was about building out the Tove woman’s world," said Perry. "What does she need? What are we not offering her?"

As for JW Anderson, they presented ballooned trousers tucked into gimmicky toy boots and mini dresses matched with ankle boots. In muddy black colours, the footwear was flat and practical but stretched and expanded in true playful JW Anderson style.

This runway comfort also spilled onto the streets, where flats became a symbol of both practicality and personal expression. Styles like ballet flats that matched hair bows, loafers the same shade of brown as their wearers oversized totes, and last season’s Simone Rocha Crocs collaboration were seen frequently on the streets, embracing both comfort and statement-making practicality.

After hours spent covering show after show, my nightly doom-scrolling led me to a street interview with Maddy Reid, deputy editor of Bricks Magazine, which echoed exactly what I thought: heels are unnecessary. In fact, flats are not only a necessity when

you’re running around the big smoke while still trying to be glamorous, but can actually be more fun to add some personality to your look. In London, where practicality meets creativity, flats became a canvas for personal expression on the streets via chunky eyecatching platforms and Jibbitz charms.

This fusion of comfort with high-fashion flair was exemplified by the prevalence of loafers and kitten heels, which were spotted throughout the event as fashionable yet functional options - a favourite Instagram profile of mine, @databutmakeitfashion,

confirmed this a few weeks prior. Ran by Madé Lapuerta, an engineer who combines technology and high-fashion by building data analytics software to detect trends, the account spotlighted that mini uggs had “increased 8.7% in popularity” on August 31st and that there was a 31% spike in Gucci loafers on September 20th, confirming flats are firmly taking hold.

It doesn’t stop there either. Ballet flats were everywhere! A quick look at TikTok confirmed this with throwback pictures of Amy Winehouse in her satin £17 pair from dancewear brand Freed of London. As TikTok and Instagram continue to drive micro-trends, ballet flats have seen a 23% rise in popularity, while baggy jeans, another emblem of comfort, increased 7% in just a week, according to computer science graduate Madé Lapuerta.

Clothing with useful pockets also dominated. Notably, trousers replaced short skirts - no longer were we forcing ourselves to brace the breeze but, again, this didn’t stop the fun. I noticed jeans covered in elaborate hand-painted art, pants and skirt combos elevated through structure and high-quality fabrics, and Wrangler blue jean lady printed Wanderer Flare Jeans. Maxi dresses with subtle pockets were everywhere, too, showing structure and allowing for playful patterns

Even embellishments and statement pieces like bold jackets and sequined skirts were balanced by relaxed, comfortable elements. An example of this I loved was content creator Fran Perks (@francescaperks) who wore an autumnal brown chequered blazer with its lapels adorned with enamel badges from a pint of Guinness to a classic red bus. This brought a whimsical yet tailored element to her autumn ensemble, grounding her look with dark blue, quarter-length socks and a matching grandpa-style beret. And I can only imagine our socks will get higher as the weather gets colder, Lapuerta’s software did say knee high socks have increased 33% in popularity…

These trends reflect the growing demand for fashion that is not only visually striking but also wearable in everyday life. As the demand for comfort continues to rise, SS25 may mark a pivotal moment in fashion history - one where style and practicality walk hand in hand. With flats and functional pieces dominating both the runway and the streets, the future of fashion looks wearable, without sacrificing creativity.

Realising Comfort Doesn’t Kill

LORENA CORDERO:

A Fusion of Art, Emotion, and Fashion

Lorena Cordero, born in 1971 in Quito, Ecuador, is a celebrated fine art photographer and fashion designer known for her unique integration of deep emotional insight and creative expression. Cordero’s journey is one of artistic exploration deeply intertwined with personal experiences of grief, selfreflection, and resilience. Moving to Paris at the age of 10, she grew up surrounded by the influence of cinema, art, and fashion, yet her path was marked by tragedy following the sudden death of her father. This profound loss sparked a lifelong inquiry into human emotion and the intricacies of life, which would become the foundation of both her artistic and fashion endeavors.

EARLY INFLUENCES AND ARTISTIC JOURNEY

Lorena’s artistic inclinations were nurtured during her time in Paris, where the vibrant art scene, rich history of fashion, and cultural milieu left an indelible mark on her psyche. Her fascination with the duality of human emotions began to take shape, forming the core theme of her artistic pursuits. She later honed her skills at the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York and Paris, focusing on photography. However, health challenges brought her back to Ecuador before she could complete her formal education. This return home, rather than stifling her growth, allowed her

from my emotions. When I design, I think of the human mind — complex, layered, and textured,” Lorena explains. Her designs are a manifestation of this concept, featuring intricate layering, diverse textures, and bold, unconventional structures that invite wearers to experience their own emotional depth. Just as she captures the soul in her portraits, she seeks to reveal the multifaceted nature of the human psyche through her clothing.

to evolve as a self-taught artist, driven by introspection and an unrelenting passion for understanding the human condition.

Her photographic work delves into the contrasts of human emotions, particularly focusing on the polarity between light and dark, joy and grief, strength and vulnerability. Her body of work includes group and solo exhibitions, most notably her series HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN and AURA, which explore feminine power and mystique. Her fine art books, LABYRINTH INSIDE THE MIRROR (2012) and THE WOMAN I LIVE IN, showcase her ability to translate complex emotional landscapes into visual narratives. Cordero’s mastery in this realm has earned her international acclaim, with her works displayed in prestigious exhibitions and earning accolades in photographic contests.

THE TRANSITION TO FASHION

After years of profound exploration in fine art photography, Lorena Cordero made the transition to fashion in 2020, launching her eponymous clothing brand. This new venture was not a departure from her artistic roots, but rather an extension of her creative vision. Cordero’s philosophy of fashion is deeply personal, with each piece acting as a reflection of the intricate layers of human emotion, much like her photography.

“In both photography and fashion, I work

THE BRAND: LORENA CORDERO

The Lorena Cordero brand is much more than a clothing line; it is a platform for personal exploration and self-discovery. Launched during the pandemic in 2020, the brand arrived at a time when the world was grappling with uncertainty and seeking new ways to express individuality. Cordero’s vision of fashion as a means of emotional connection resonated deeply. Her designs challenge the status quo, encouraging people to explore themselves and the world around them with curiosity and courage.

The central tenet of her fashion philosophy is rooted in duality — much like her photographic work. Her collections feature garments that blend contrasting elements: fluidity and structure, softness and boldness, simplicity and complexity. Layering plays a significant role, symbolizing the multifaceted nature of human experience. Each piece is designed with the intent to reflect the wearer’s inner world, allowing them to express their emotions outwardly through their clothing.

Cordero sees fashion as a form of communication, a way to connect with others and with oneself. Her brand invites wearers to embrace their uniqueness, to see their clothing as an extension of their inner selves, and to use fashion as a tool for

introspection.

ART MEETS FASHION: A UNIQUE VISION

One of the most striking aspects of Lorena Cordero’s approach to fashion is how seamlessly she integrates her artistic background into her designs. Drawing from her years of experience as a photographer, Cordero brings an intimate, almost poetic perspective to fashion design. Her collections are marked by bold artistic statements, with each garment serving as a canvas for self-expression.

Her approach to fashion is often described as avant-garde, with designs that defy conventional trends and embrace a more conceptual, artistic vision. In many ways, Cordero’s clothing is wearable art, with each piece offering the wearer an opportunity to participate in a creative dialogue. Her pieces are not merely clothing but living canvases, as she puts it, meant to inspire self-reflection and personal growth.

Cordero’s use of unconventional silhouettes, rich textures, and intricate details sets her apart in the fashion world. Her garments are often layered, creating a sense of depth and complexity that mirrors the emotional intricacies she explores in her photography. This layering also symbolizes the many layers of human experience, with each layer representing a different facet of the wearer’s personality or emotional state.

THE FUTURE OF LORENA CORDERO

With a strong foundation in both fine art and fashion, Lorena Cordero is poised to continue her exploration of the intersection between emotion, art, and fashion. Her brand, while still in its early stages, has already made a mark as a daring, emotionally driven label that challenges conventional ideas of beauty and fashion. As she continues to grow and evolve, her work

will likely remain a reflection of her deep understanding of human emotion and her desire to inspire self-exploration through art and design.

Lorena Cordero’s journey from fine art photography to fashion design is a testament to the power of creativity and self-expression. Her ability to channel her

personal experiences into her work has resulted in a brand that not only speaks to the fashion world but also connects deeply with the human experience. With each new collection, Cordero continues to push the boundaries of fashion, using her designs to inspire others to explore the complexities of their own emotions and to express themselves boldly and authentically.

The Human Element: How Fashion Week Designers Use Personal Narratives to Connect with Audiences

Words C.I. Atumah

We all have personal attachment to clothes, whether because of the period we wore them, the person who gifted it to us or just nostalgia for the person we were when we first got the piece of clothing. But have you ever wondered if, maybe, these clothes had a story behind them before they became yours?

If there's one thing we saw on the Spring/ Summer runway this year, it's that designers are going beyond fabrics to show us the emotions and stories behind their creative processes. Fashion shows are no longer just about the clothes; they are about the messages, emotions and personal narratives behind the clothes. They are also a medium to connect with deeper meanings—cultural commentary, emotional journeys and personal reflections.

Take Tolu Coker’s Spring/Summer 2025 show as an example. Coker brought her personal narrative to life in a way that felt nostalgic yet entirely new. Her collection, Olapeju, was

named after her mother which translates from the Yoruba phrase “where wealth gathers,” she tells Dazed. She also said in the show notes that “Clothes are never a commodity by themselves, they belong to an environment, expression and celebration of culture, a documentation of the influence of the past, today in the present.”

It was presented on a runway which, instead of the standard seating, was transformed with standout mid-century furniture and décor, creating a space that felt like a curated art installation. The whole scene with teak sofas, rich mustard cushions, a fully set dining table overflowing with colourful tropical fruits, and bookshelves adorned with hand-carved ebony sculptures made the audience feel at home. She wanted the audience to be transported into a place, space and time and feel the connections beyond that.

From the bold colours to the stunning fabric manipulation, Coker shattered the myth of “old-fashioned” and showed us that

fashion is what you make it. Inspired by her British-Nigerian childhood and her parents' youth in the 1970s, Coker transformed the runway into an immersive experience, designed like her childhood living room with retro patterned wallpaper, stirring a sense of longing for a beautiful time past. Through her storytelling, Coker illustrated that fashion is more than clothing—it’s about identity, emotion and getting in touch with our roots.

The clothes tied Coker's artistry and vision together, and complemented the stage. The audience were immediately catapulted to an era of sleek tailoring with sharply cinched waists, combined with 70s-inspired A-line silhouettes and bold, exaggerated collars, capturing the essence of Yoruba sartorial traditions and draping. Some of the design patterns were similar with the wallpaper background and were accessorized with brightly coloured bags and signature wigs reminiscent of the golden age. From the stage down to the music (and dancing!) Coker represented Yoruba culture infused with

Fashion Week has increasingly become a platform for designers to tell their personal stories, blending elements of resilience, success and style. These personal ‘backstories’ humanize the collections, allowing designers to connect with both industry insiders and everyday fashion lovers.

Thierry Mugler came with sharp spectacle, inspired by Mugler’s expansive archive and reimagined into a more classic and sensual collection. The show, which balanced art with edge—evident in the angular hairstyles and dramatic cuts—gave a dark interpretation of the floral theme Casey Cadwallader was pursuing. A variety of styles were displayed, from a plastic trench coat to webbed dresses and stylish corsets, to black jackets with cinched waists à la Thierry’s old looks. This poetic interpretation of the floral world reminds us that beauty can be both delicate and dangerous. Mugler’s apocalyptic collection balanced fragility and power, offering a bold reimagining of nature’s duality, and pushing the boundaries of beauty and edge.

The same daring spirit could be found in Schiaparelli, whose collection this year stole the show with stunning corsets, braided ties, denim innovations, and sensational sequin mini dresses that looked like floral motherboards. Master of blending chic with “wow”, Daniel Roseberry focused on timelessness instead of the usual extravagance. It is said that you can tell when a designer really loves women, because this collection, according to him, was not just for his clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters, hence the name Future Vintage. Merging everyday looks like a corset and a pair of jeans into a single piece of waist-snatching, femme fatale look, Roseberry set the tone for what would truly be one of the best shows of the season. The bags with human features—eyes, nose, mouth— themselves made for eye-catching accessories on the runway.

Schiaparelli's storytelling did not just stop at the clothes. The audience, adorned in Schiaparelli pieces themselves, became part of the narrative, making the event feel more like a surreal art installation than a runway show. It was a powerful reminder that the boundaries between designer, audience and fashion are becoming increasingly blurred, with storytelling running through every stitch and seam.

Paola Carzana, named by British Vogue as a pioneer in sustainability, is another designer who is reshaping the way we think about fashion. Held in his garden, this intimate offthe-grid affair, the show started with some orange wine and chat, until the first model made an appearance. Wearing a cropped white shirt and frayed trousers, the model slowly danced his way to the pond and like the mythical Narcissus, considered his own reflection for sometime and looked away. Carzana explained the significance of this

in his note: “The opening model does not fall in love with his reflection or himself, he reverses, washes away his reflection and turns away, and lights the path for others to follow in his way.” He concludes saying: “I think that if we all worked together to understand what it is that hurts us, what it is that causes us pain, then again, we could learn, we could move forward, we can return from the pond of our reflection.” The designs, characterized by their earthiness, reflected the collection's deeper message of introspection and reflection. The natural tones and organic textures symbolized a rejection of superficial vanity, encouraging a grounded connection to one's true self and a responsibility to light the path for others, as Carzana’s re-imagined Narcissus does.

Vetements approach to Spring 2025 was definitely an interesting one. The show titled Time To Clean Up The Mess was not only walked by famous stars, but was a fashion statement, imagining a world where consumers adopted “a DIY mindset, creating unique, conceptual pieces from what remains” as Guran Gvasalia puts it. This makes a lot of sense given the DHL’s signature red-yellow tape dress worn by Gigi Hadid, a neon tee with Monster Energy’s startling logo, and tags intentionally left poking out from mini dresses, a subtle jab at consumerism.

We all love a good love story, or at least a dress to fall in love with and Blumarine SS25 delivered with a romantic affair. The collection could be described as boho-aquatic, ethereal, sun-kissed and beachy, balanced with lacey leather pants that contrasted and complemented the voluminous asymmetrical blouses.

Blumarine tells a story of femininity and modern structure.

One show that made a lasting impression was Saint Laurent. As Catherine Deneuve once said, “Saint Laurent designs for women with a double life. His clothes for daywear help women enter a world full of strangers without arousing unwelcome attention, thanks to their somehow masculine quality. However, for the evening, when she may choose her company, he makes her seductive.” This duality was fully on display at this year’s Saint Laurent show, where tailored suits and elegantly structured dresses came together to tell a story of women who are both powerful and alluring, steering their worlds with grace and strength.

Fashion storytelling allows designers to connect with their audiences in a more intimate way, breaking down the barriers between art and wearer. When fashion transcends mere clothing to become a form of cultural commentary and personal reflection, it invites audiences to become part of the story. The conversation didn’t stop at the end of the runway; it continued online, where fashion lovers dissected the deeper messages embedded in the collections. Social media was abuzz this year with reactions to the most memorable collections—fans gushed over Schiaparelli’s daring corsetry and Tolu Coker’s vibrant, nostalgic designs.

In the end, storytelling transcends the traditional pages of a book, and fashion storytelling brings intimacy and meaning to the runway, and ultimately, how we interact with the designer and the dress.

BIG HORN Eyewear:

Crafting Style and Innovation in Every Pair

BIG HORN Eyewear is a renowned brand celebrated for its exceptional craftsmanship, stylish designs, and unwavering commitment to highquality eyewear. With a reputation for attention to detail and innovative designs, BIG HORN offers a diverse range of fashionable eyewear options that cater to various tastes and preferences.

Kevin Ching, the designer and owner of BIG HORN Eyewear, has revolutionized the concept of eyewear as a daily accessory. His designs have redefined the role of eyewear, equating its importance with that of apparel. Ching's award-winning designs have captured the admiration of media, magazines, celebrities, artists, stylists, fashionistas, and bloggers alike.

The brand's slogan, "Designed for People, Designed for you," encapsulates its mission and vision. This customer-centric approach emphasizes that BIG HORN's designs are tailored to meet individual desires and preferences, aiming to bring joy and positivity into the lives of its customers.

One of the distinguishing features of BIG HORN Eyewear is its ability to seamlessly blend style with functionality. Each pair of eyeglasses or sunglasses undergoes a meticulous design and manufacturing process, ensuring they not only look fashionable but also provide optimal comfort, durability, and eye protection.

BIG HORN Eyewear offers a wide array of options, from classic and timeless designs to bold and contemporary styles. Whether seeking a sophisticated and elegant frame or a trendy and avant-garde design, BIG HORN strives to offer something for everyone.

The brand prioritizes the use of premium materials, ensuring longevity and performance. BIG HORN Eyewear utilizes high-quality lenses that provide excellent optical clarity and UV protection. In 2023, the brand collaborated with Carl Zeiss to incorporate bio-based lenses into their collections. Additionally, their frames are crafted from durable materials such as acetate, bio-degradable acetate, stainless steel, and titanium.

Since 2018, BIG HORN Eyewear has been committed to sustainability and ethical practices. The brand emphasizes responsible manufacturing processes, including the use of eco-friendly materials and packaging. This includes bio-degradable acetate, biobased nose pads, and lenses from Carl Zeiss, ensuring the reduction of plastics while maintaining high quality and durability.

BIG HORN Eyewear's offerings are divided into four distinct collections, each catering to different segments and styles:

FASHION CREATIVE COLLECTION

This limited edition line is characterized by

its uniqueness and exclusivity. With only five pieces available per design, these eyewear pieces are inspired by art and contemporary fashion, making them highly coveted by those with a discerning eye.

EXTRAVAGANZA COLLECTION

Infused with bold creativity and street style influences, the Extravaganza Collection elevates and enhances one's fashion taste. These designs make a powerful statement of individuality.

PREMIUM COLLECTION

Striking a balance between extravagance and sophistication, the Premium Collection exudes elegance and unique style. It seamlessly integrates street style with refined aesthetics, making it a favorite among fashion enthusiasts worldwide.

BIG HORN PLUS COLLECTION

Known for its youthful and minimalist style,

the BIG HORN Plus Collection embodies a fresh, neutral, and futuristic vibe. These designs are charming and elegant, ensuring optimal comfort without compromising on style.

BIG HORN Eyewear has firmly established itself as a reputable and sought-after brand in the eyewear industry. By combining style, quality, and functionality, BIG HORN delivers eyewear that meets the diverse needs of fashion-conscious individuals. Kevin Ching's emphasis on innovation and perfection in production ensures that BIG HORN continues to bring both high fashion and high quality to the masses. With unisex styles designed for those in the fashion loop, BIG HORN Eyewear allows individuals to express their personality and style through mix and match, making them smart and stylish at all times.