THE WATCHES MAGAZINE Winter 2016

Swiss International Magazine Winter 2016 #047 Interviews Jérôme Lambert - Aurélie Picaud - Guest Servane Gaxotte

English Edition

Patek Philippe I n t he wake of th e Nau tilu s Arnold & son - Baume & Mercier - Blancpain - Bovet - Chanel - Chopard - Eterna Frédérique Constant - Glashütte Original - H. Moser & Cie - Hermès - Hysek - Louis Vuitton - MB&F Montblanc - Poiray - Rebellion - Richard Mille - TAG Heuer - Tissot - urwerk - Vacheron Constantin - Zenith

suisse: 10 francs FRANCE MéTRO: 7 EuROs - BEL/LuX/POLAND: 8 EuROs - uK: £8 - A/D/GR//PORT.CONT: 8,40 EuROs - CAN: 11,95 $CAN - usA: 14,99 $us

Breguet, the innovator.

Classique 7147

The finely fluted gold case of the Classique 7147 houses an ultra-thin movement, the complexity is matched only by the timeless elegance of the watch. Expressing a subtle blend of finesse and precision, this timepiece is distinguished by an off-centred oscillating weight, a variable-inertia balance beating at the rate of 3 Hz, and a silicon balance-spring and escapement. History is still being written...

B A L H A R B O U R B E I J I N G C A N N E S C H E N G D U D U B A I E K AT E R I N B U R G G E N E VA G S TA A D H O N G K O N G K U A L A L U M P U R L A S V E G A S L O N D O N L O S A N G E L E S M A C A O M I L A N M O S C O W N E W Y O R K N I N G B O PA R I S S E O U L S H A N G H A I S I N G A P O R E TA I P E I T O K Y O V I E N N A Z U R I C H – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

T H E U R - 1 0 5 TA HOUR SATELLITE INDICATION WITH AUTOMATIC WINDING REGULATED BY TURBINES

UR-105TA

C ove r wat Ch

06

Patek Philippe

Limited Edition 40th Anniversary Nautilus Chronograph Ref 5976/1G

By Sharmila Bertin

I

n the space of 40 years, the Nautilus by Patek Philippe hasn’t just become a classic in the Genevan brand’s collections but has also made its mark as a must-have on the watch scene.

The collection expanded between 1976 and 2016 to include new models such as a smaller case and style to suit women, Roman numerals, a leather strap and complications (winding display on the dial, chronograph, annual calendar).

To celebrate the 40th anniversary with a bang, Patek Philippe has brought out a pair of Nautilus pieces that ooze the spirit of the 1976 original and the design work that went into the 30 th anniversary collection in 2006. The Nautilus Chronograph Reference 5976/1G is one of them and inspired by the design features of the chronograph reference 5980 that came out 10 years ago. The new 5976/1G’s white gold case is 3.6mm bigger than its predecessor at 49.25mm. It houses the self-winding CH 28-520 C calibre with a flyback chronograph function controlled by a column wheel and vertical disc system. Its power reserve lasts 45-55 hours.

The signature Nautilus hollowed-out stripes rip through the blue dial whilst the hour markers glitter with baguette and princess-cut diamonds. A single counter takes up the bottom of the dial with the hour and minute counter ; the minutes are split in two and counted from 1-30 and 31-60 minutes.

1300 of the limited edition and numbered Nautilus Chronograph Ref 5976/1G are available.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

INSTRUMENT COLLECTION

UTTE SKELETON World thinnest skeleton tourbillon Calibre A&S8220: manufacture one-minute flying tourbillon movement / ultrathin 3.30 mm / skeletonised / hand-wound / double barrel / power reserve over 90 h / Haute Horlogerie finishing: chamfered bridges with polished edges, côtes de Genève rayonnantes, satin-finished wheels and ratchets with chamfered and polished edges, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Tourbillon cage: satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges. Functions: hours, minutes and tourbillon. Dial: 8-shaped with sapphire insert in upper half for the hours and minutes indication. Case: very elaborated and tapering from top to bottom to perfectly fit on the wrist / 18-karat red gold / thickness 8.34 mm / diameter 42 mm. www.arnoldandson.com

E DIT OR IAL

Showy vocabulary

© Mickael Gautier

A

long with three other people in the watch industry, I was asked to share my thoughts on the 85th anniversary of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso for the Swiss newspaper Le Matin (thanks Thierry !) in early October. I was very flattered to be seen as a watch specialist (I suppose it is my job ...) and even more so to be the only woman out of the four guests (but that’s another story ...).

Le Matin wanted us to define the word icon and answer two questions, the first being “ What is an icon ? ” My answer wasn’t published in full but it was pretty simple and very sincere : “ An iconic watch is first and foremost a watch that you can recognise on someone’s wrist from a distance, even if it’s slightly covered by a shirt sleeve. The shape of its case, the curve of its body and the design of its dial may just be details to some but they go into a watch’s personality and make it easy to recognise. (..) a model that transcends time, ignores fads, is classic with that special something that will go down in the history of watchmaking or a design that’s so strong you’ll never forget it. ” Simple but efficient.

The definition may be true of the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre or the Nautilus by Patek Philippe on this issue’s cover but it isn’t for many watches that brands, and especially their PR teams, rush to call icons because they’re proud of the design or want to indulge the client. No, a watch that’s only just come out cannot be called an icon. Not right away. But I’ve read it in countless press releases …Time makes a watch an icon, not marketing.

Just like Le Matin quoted me as saying: icons are “ timeless pieces that any collector, man or woman, novice or expert, should own ; a watch that epitomises heritage, that you’ll pass onto our child ; a watch that you’ll wear in 20, 40 or 60 years’ time ; a powerful watchmaking symbol with an inimitable case, perfect curves and a unique concept. ” It’s as simple as that.

09

Sharmila Bertin Editor-in-Chief

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

Gu e st The Watches Magazine invites a new guest writer to share their vision of time in each issue.

“ Please write twenty lines about your relationship with time … ”

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Servane Gaxotte Jewellery and doll designer, founder of Maison Servane Gaxotte

T

hat’s what Sharmila asked me a few weeks or hours ago.

An instant yes then a huge blank…despite myself I had days of outbursts and trivialities about time…notions about what I have, had, what’s left and time I’m always chasing.

Trying then attempting to be light-hearted about this colossus.

Thinking of funny word plays, semantic flourishes, facts and figures.

Getting philosophical about time that’s so precious, slows down, speeds up; our little luxury when we’re young that makes us rush as we get older.

Basically, lots of time spent thinking about a word that fills any space.

I’ve actually just celebrated a milestone.

To be precise, I turned 50 this year and I didn’t celebrate anything at all.

50 knocked me for six. It froze me solid.

I hadn’t realised that this is the age that, all things considered, makes you want to celebrate every age.

Everything changes at 50.

backwards.

Everything stands still pending the essential.

The chronograph only starts up again when I’m sure what I do, say or decide is vital.

A change of pace.

A new paradigm, a new space and time.

At the end of the day, Sharmila suggested it to me so that I cherish. Everything.

Time that passes, rushes, lingers and gets lost.

It was so I would make the dream my own.

So I’d abandon other people’s time So I’d take my time, the only one that’s mine.

My kingdom So, thank you Sharmila.

Watches don’t move at the same speed anymore, hands spin

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HERMÈS BY NATURE

Hermes.com

INSIDE

30 Cover Story Patek Philippe

12

9 10 18 20 22 26

Editorial Guest Servane Gaxotte We love Design We love Technique Trends The Eye of Jewelry

30 Cover Story Patek Philippe 40 Montblanc Interview Jérôme Lambert 44 Chopard 48 Rebellion 50 Arnold & Son

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52 54 56 58 60 62

Blancpain Tissot Vacheron Constantin Hermès Baume & Mercier Eterna

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece L.U.C

Quattro

independent

barrels

The

is

equipped

stacked

in

with

four

pairs

and

totalling a full 1.8 metres of spring. This patented mechanism ensures an exceptional nine-day power reserve and above all, amazing precision.

Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L, each barrel is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture.

The L.U.C Quattro houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and bears the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.

L . U . C Q U AT T R O

INSIDE

66 Portrait Joël Dicker

14

64 Louis Vuitton 66 Portrait Joël Dicker 68 Fabergé Interview Aurélie Picaud 70 Bovet 71 Frédérique Constant 72 Glashütte Original 73 H. Moser & Cie

74 75 76 77 78 80

Hysek MB&F Urwerk Zenith Geek Opinion

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

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CALIBRE RM 07-01

RICHARD MILLE BOUTIQUES SUISSE

© Didier Gourdon

Rue du Rhône 78 1204 Genève - Tél.: +41 22 810 85 73

•

Grand Hôtel Kempinski, Quai du Mont Blanc 19 1201 Genève - Tél.: +41 22 732 20 22

www.richardmille.com

IMPR E SSU M

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Rédaction/Edition ACE Publishing SA Direction/Management Alain Carrier acarrier@ace-publishing.com Rédactrice en chef/Editor-in-Chief Sharmila Bertin sbertin@ace-publishing.com

Kiosques/Kiosks Suisse: Naville SA & Valora AG - France: MLP - Export: Export Press Abonnement/Subscription Dynapress Marketing SA Avenue Vibert 38 - CH-1227 Carouge/Genève T +41 22 308 08 08 - abonnements@dynapresse.ch

Designer graphique/Graphic designer Célia Sozet Contributeurs/Contributors Inès Aloui - Tiffany Cartier-Millon - Dan Diaconu Fabrice Eschmann - Mickael Gautier - Servane Gaxotte Serge Panczuk - Eléonor Picciotto Publicité/Advertising ACE Publishing SA Alain Carrier acarrier@ace-publishing.com T +41 22 752 60 12 Yannick Ortolan yortolan@ace-publishing.com T +41 22 752 60 12 Yves Golaz yves.golaz@goadvertising.ch T +41 21 800 57 07 - M +41 79 831 55 55 Traduction/Translation Atenao www.atenao.com Impression/Printing Brailly Distribution Allemagne, Australie, Autriche, Belgique, Brésil,Canada, Émirats Arabes Unis États-Unis, France, Grèce, Hong Kong, Koweit, Maroc, Monaco, Pologne Portugal, Royaume-Uni, Singapour, Suisse, Turquie, Taïwan, Thailande

Édité 4 fois par an/Published 4 times a year Mars-March/Juin-June/Septembre-September/Décembre-December En 4 langues/In 4 languages Français-French/Anglais-English/Allemand-German/Chinois simplifié-Chinese ISSN: Français1664-8048/Anglais1664-820X/Allemand1664-8056 ACE Publishing SA Principal actionnaire/Major shareholder Alain Carrier Route de Thonon 152A - CH-1222 Vésenaz/Genève T +41 22 752 60 12 - F +41 22 752 60 14 N° TVA CHE-112.276.791 TVA - REF 618 137 La reproduction des articles parus dans THE WATCHES MAGAZINE est interdite sous toutes ses formes, sauf autorisation écrite de l’éditeur.

Any form of reproduction of articles published in THE WATCHES MAGAZINE is prohibited without the prior written consent of the publisher.

Copyright TWM-THE WATCHES MAGAZINE®, registered by ACE Publishing SA

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WINTER 2016

FINESSE AND REFINEMENT

by the motorist of time

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We Love De sign

18

Richard Mille

RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph

By Sharmila Bertin

A

fter ten years of loyal service, one of the stars of the Richard Mille watch collection has been replaced by the seriously sporty RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph inspired by the world of motor racing.

Any product, even the best, has more or less the same existence as us: birth, life and death. There’s no need to get all dramatic : it’s totally normal especially when it comes to this watch by Richard Mille which isn’t dead and buried. It’s been replaced by a reworked version with a more vibrant silhouette true to classic “ marketing product ” style. The makeover doesn’t just mean it suits modern standards and injects new life into the collections but it also stands out from so-called “ lifestyle ” sport models. Unsurprisingly, the RM 11-03 Automatic Flyback Chronograph isn’t exactly lacking in sporty character !

Its self-winding RMAC3 skeleton calibre is a miniature 3D work of art that brings together sculpture and painting. The metallic lace woven on the titanium plate and bridges is elevated by a quartet of contrasting colours: pure white, grass

green, electric yellow and bright red. Two large rose gold hands in the centre rimmed with a shimmering luminescent coating glide over openwork white hour numerals and an accurate minute track on the carbon fibre chapter ring. They are joined by the coppery red-tipped flyback chronograph seconds hand. The date information is as follows: the oversize date lies at 12 and the month at 4.30. The three counters are displayed as follows : seconds at 3, chronograph hour counter at 6 and 60-minute timer at 9.

The movement fuelling the 55-hour power reserve is snug inside the barrel-shape rose gold case. The case is 49.94mm long, 44.5mm wide and 16.5mm thick and divided into three parts held in place by 20 titanium spline screws.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

BOUTIQUES GENÈVE • PARIS • LONDON • BERLIN • NEW YORK MIAMI • BEVERLY HILLS • LAS VEGAS MOSCOW • DUBAI • TOKYO • HONG KONG SINGAPORE • SAINT-TROPEZ • CANNES COURCHEVEL • GSTAAD • ZERMATT • ZÜRICH

Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black.

Scratch-resistant smoked sapphire case, paying tribute to Hublot's extensive expertise. An invisible visibility which reveals the in-house UNICO movement.

Limited edition of 500 pieces.

We Love T e c hniqu e

20

Montblanc

TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minutes Chronograph Limited Edition 100

By Sharmila Bertin

T

his is the first time that the urban chic TimeWalker collection has been given a complication designed and patented by Montblanc : the ExoTourbillon.

The TimeWalker oozes style and performance with its ExoTourbillon, single pusher chronograph and hi-tech materials.

The collection is already famous for its avant-garde style and this TimeWalker is making a statement with its racy and vibrant looks. It’s innovative to boot as the three parts on its 44mm case are an expert blend of cutting-edge materials : brushed titanium on the openwork body, compact black carbon fibre on the container and black DLC-coated titanium rimmed by a red seal on the bezel. The design gives the watch lightness and weight.

But this isn’t style over substance. Montblanc has already put the famous ExoTourbillon into its Heritage Chronométrie, Villeret, 4810 and Bohème collections and now it’s joined the TimeWalker. The system designed and patented by Montblanc

involves placing the screw-down balance wheel outside the tourbillon cage (hence the Greek term exo). The tourbillon is smaller than standard ones and isn’t affected by the weight of the balance wheel so it requires 30% less energy. A single pusher triggers the chronograph function fuelled by a column wheel and vertical gear.

The self-winding MB R230 calibre brings the functions to life and its double barrel fuels the 50-hour power reserve among other features.

The dial is split in two and plays on volume. The bottom is occupied by the ExoTourbillon and its double arrow bridge (a nod to the 158 year old Minerva factory that Montblanc took over in 2007) in vertically brushed silver metal. The larger top is home to the semi-circular chronograph seconds and minute counters. The hours and minutes appear off-centre at 12 alongside a date display with a hand.

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T R E NDS

22

Flyback : the chronograph’s comeback ?

By Dan Diaconu

I

t may be trendy to have a three-hand watch for any situation but we haven’t heard the last of chronographs!

They don’t go to the gym but these sporty souls are now packed with features you’ll love. Some of them even feature a complication that appeared 80 years ago on a Longines wristwatch: the flyback. What is it ? This extra function resets and restarts the chronograph with a touch to measure short time. “ To hear thunder is no sign of a quick ear ”* but it’s enough for the Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback Passione Engadina. The limited edition designed for a motor race that the brand partners has an elegant dial from another era. A tachymeter scale measures distance when a sound is emitted. Another scale determines the speed based on the time taken to cover 1km.

The same feature appears on the bezel on the classic limited edition Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition by Chopard. The COSC-certified flyback chronograph stands out for its statement 46mm case so you can easily tell the time.

The same goes for the all-black TAG Heuer Monza 2016 with a bright dial. Don’t let the classic 42mm cushion-shape case fool you; the grade 5 titanium all over the model makes it futureforward.

Now to the opposite end of the spectrum: the RM 11-03 by Richard Mille epitomises contemporary and sporty luxury watchmaking. The new look RM 011 stands out for its redesigned barrel-shape case, self-winding RMAC3 calibre and 3D dial. New personality ; new performance !

Brands are putting the flyback function into watches with very different personalities but they all have things in common : a

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>

www.zenith-watches.com

LEGENDS ARE FOREVER

T R E NDS

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self-winding movement, easy-to-read features and a red hand to better visualise an instant display. “ It isn’t man that stops time, it’s time that stops man. ” Perhaps watch brands wanted to challenge Chateaubriand** by trying to rein in the frantic rush of time. * Sun Tzu ** François-René, Vicomte de Chateaubriand, French writer and politician (1768-1848)

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The e ye of Je we lry

26

What does fine watchmaking have to do with fashion watches?

By Eléonor Picciotto

W

orange box wrapped in a chocolate ribbon. Whatever the piece, a Hermès watch is a sure bet; as sure as its quartz movement in a steel case that will tell her the time for her next beautician’s appointment with unrivalled precision !

#3 Heure H by Hermès All things considered, it’s far more stylish to wear your leather Kelly with the matching Heure H twin-strap watch. The H owner sees it as a symbol of brand loyalty and pays little heed to her watch’s mechanical complexity. She knows the “ natural ” leather on her caramel-coloured interchangeable strap is the brand’s signature and that it will come in a pretty

#2 Interchangeable by Poiray She may have been seen as the little girl from Place Vendôme since 1975 but our 40 year old hasn’t aged a bit. The countless strap combos bring us a variety of colours, textures and styles to enthral young wannabe boho Parisians. Lusted after by some, worn by others, the Interchangeable passes down through the generations. Its iconic decorated design showcasing a mother-of-pearl dial with Arabic numerals > sometimes paved with diamonds (careful, let’s not take any

hat’s in a name? Is it a watch, diamond watch or wristwatch? Couldn’t we just call it a fashion accessory that tells the time on the side?

International success, an outer sign of being fashionable or at least an ability to stay on trend: three brands are worthy winners.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

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Calibre Maison Eterna 3916A

eterna.com

SU P ER KO N T I K I C HRO N O GR AP H SPECIAL EDITION

The e ye of Je we lry

28 risks) got an update early this year : the round case has softened the edges of the youthful old dame. #1 J12 by Chanel The J12 has always been an international success for the haute couture brand but it was originally intended for men.

However, it’s more popular with ladies who buy anything with a double C ranging from the iconic bag, two-tone ballerina pumps and Rouge Noir (N°18) nail varnish. Chanel is all about bestsellers, infatuations or just fads: that said, the advantage of ceramic is that you avoid scratches and monochrome is a no-brainer. The J12 goes with anything, can be worn anytime and the launch of the XS model on a leather glove or polished strap will certainly go down well.

Bestsellers from the fashion scene … We may laugh but these pieces wouldn’t sell like hotcakes if they weren’t well designed !

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

LIVE YOUR

PASSION

SLIMLINE MANUFACTURE PERPETUAL CALENDAR FROM CHF 8’350.Handcrafted in-house movement.

Manufacture Collection: in-house developed, in-house produced and in-house assembled movements.

More information on frederiqueconstant.com

Co ver st ory Pat e k PhiliPPe

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Référence 3700 (1976)

In the wake of the Nautilus

By Sharmila Bertin

2016

is a milestone year for Patek Philippe as its famous Nautilus celebrates its 40 th anniversary.

The watch was avant-garde when it launched and is now an icon that’s sailed through four decades. It epitomises a philosophy: time has no hold over time.

A brand is born Two years ago in 2014, Patek Philippe celebrated its 175 th anniversary with a collection of commemorative pieces whose star, the double-dial Grandmaster Chime, is the most complicated and complex wristwatch ever made by the Genevan brand.

This technical feat not only ref lects Patek Philippe’s passion and expertise but also the ambition that’s fuelled the brand since 1839. The same ambition led Polish watchmaker Antoni Patek a.k.a. Antoine Norbert de Patek

(1812-1877) to join forces with Czech-born François Czapek (1911-circa 1869) and found Patek Czapek et C ie in 1839. Patek replaced Czapek with a French watchmaker he met in 1844 called Jean Adrien Philippe (1815-1894).

Together they founded a business in 1845 which was named Patek, Philippe et C ie in 1851. The name may have changed several times in the brand’s history but Patek and Philippe are now inseparable.

A family dynasty Two brothers and owners of a Genevan dial factory, Jean and Charles Henri Stern (1883-1944), bought Patek, Philippe et C ie in 1932. A model that time would turn into an icon launched the same year: Calatrava reference 96, a watch inspired by the Bauhaus trend’s signature minimalism.

Two years later Henri Stern (1911-2002), Charles Henri Stern’s son and grandfather of Patek Philippe’s current

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Philippe & Thierry Stern (2010)

president Thierry Stern, joined the company that he began running in 1958. His son, Philippe Stern, joined the brand in 1966. Another model appeared in the collections two years later (and is still in the current catalogue but with more contemporary styles) : Ellipse d'Or reference 3548 is lusted after for its electric blue dial and rectangular case whose curves create an oval shape.

Philippe Stern became CEO in 1977 then president in 1993 until 2009 when Thierry Stern, who had joined the company 5 years earlier, took over Patek Philippe SA Genève.

70s creating new pieces or updating current collections until he launched his own business in 1969.

Gérald Genta designed a watch with an unusual look and chunky design for Patek Philippe. The steel model went totally against the trend for f lat gold cases at the time.

The Nautilus reference 3700/1A shook up classic standards and launched in 1976.

It caused a stir when it appeared on the market and sealed Patek Philippe’s place in the sports watch sector to such an extent that the model was made until 1990 and turned into a collection.

Gérald Genta’s stamp Philippe Stern called upon the talents of icon creator Gérald Genta (1931-2011) who both the industry and watch enthusiasts see as the greatest watch designer of the 20 th century or ever.

The Genevan graduated in jewellery and goldsmithery in 1951 and worked for various watch brands in the 60s and

Inspired by the sea Water sports fan Philippe Stern has put his passion for the big blue into this new watch. The name itself is integral to the sea world : Nautilus.

There are two possible interpretations of the Latin term (in Ancient Greek nautilos means “ sailor ”) both rooted in the sea bed.

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>

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The nautilus is a sea mollusc whose ivory and brown striped shell is similar to a snail and curls up to form a spiral.

Nautilus is also the name of the famous submarine in Jules Verne’s adventure novels (1828-1905). It appears in two books by the French author : Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea (1869) and The Mysterious Island (1874).

The fictional submarine was designed by Captain Nemo and had advanced avant-garde technology with a highly developed electric system that saw it cover large distances in record time.

Unique style signatures The Nautilus reference 3700/1A was equally avant-garde with its large steel case wrapped in two strips along the case sides (2-4 and 8-10). The case size was quite something at the time : 42mm. It was also waterproof to depths of 120m which wasn’t the norm in 1976.

The large steel shell was made up of two parts held in place by a hinged structure inspired by a boat’s porthole.

It had a wide octagonal bezel with smooth edges and curvy corners.

The dial featuring the hours and minutes in the centre and the date display at 3 was grey tinged with blue like the ocean. Its horizontal stripes brought to mind a sailor’s

top. An hour rim with silver markers ran the length of the chapter ring tracked by two luminescent baton-shape hands.

Another highlight of this first edition Nautilus is the blend of polished and satin finishes on the case and steel strap that play on matt and shiny effects.

Bold marketing Launching a product, no matter its prestige, is one thing but building a universe in which to market it is something else entirely. The internet and social networks didn’t exist in 1976 and advertising was mainly on paper. It had to be visually striking and appealing.

Patek Philippe’s slogans and texts in the 70s focused on its technical and aesthetic innovation and the time it took to make ref lecting a sense of heritage.

Two core values came to the fore: identity (Patek Philippe’s identity as a premium watchmaker founded in 1839 and its clients’ identity as watchmaking was a prime social marker) and heritage (Genevan business with several generations of the Stern family at the helm and our heritage as human beings).

Patek Philippe’s advertising was big and bold from 1978.

The product took centre stage with an often cheeky text.

It wasn’t until 1996, exactly 20 years ago, that the slogan

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“You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation” appeared with shots on coated paper of two (mother and daughter, father and son) or three generations (grandfather, father and son on the Quantième Annuel reference 5205 G).

33

Référence 5060/SJ >

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Co ver st ory Pat e k PhiliPPe

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Riding the waves of Time

By Sharmila Bertin

P

atek Philippe is paying tribute to a legendary timepiece two years after celebrating its 175th anniversary : Nautilus is a 40 year old that’s still as stylish and seductive as ever.

Two new Nautilus models are coming out for the 40 th anniversary of the watch “ that can be worn with a wet suit or a tuxedo.”

The icon 40 may be the new 30 but this classic 21st century statement doesn’t work for a timepiece whose every decade has made it the Holy Grail that all watchmakers spend their lives dreaming of : an icon.

Icon. The word has been thrown around too much in marketing but it still hits home. It encapsulates a brand’s creative and

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Référence : 5976/1G

Référence : 5711/1P

mechanical wealth and identity from the workshops to the wrist. Almost 200 years of watchmaking history have built the foundations for the watch to flourish. Over its 40 years, the piece has won over clients of all ages and backgrounds with one thing in common: style. The watch has such a strong personality that it has given rise to its own collection instilled with all the Genevan brand’s talent and expertise.

Time makes a timepiece an icon.

Nautilus got its first complication in 1998 : reference 3710/1A had a winding display at 12 on the black dial.

The model turned 30 in 2006 and had a design update that saw the case go from 2 parts to 3. The famous collection was joined by a self-winding chronograph: reference 5980/1A. Three years later in 2009, Gérald Genta redesigned the women’s Nautilus collection and the reference 7118/1A caused a stir in 2015 with its self-winding calibre and diamondcovered steel case.

The power of a collection In collaboration with watch designer Gérald Genta and overseen by Philippe Stern, Patek Philippe unveiled a steel watch with a statement look and seamless mechanics in 1976.

Nautilus was a game changer but its rebel look drew people in.

A smaller and more sophisticated gold version came out 4 years later in 1980 for women : Nautilus Dame 4700/51J. The case shrank again for the references 3800/1 and 3900/1 in 1981.

Nautilus celebrated its 20th anniversary in 1996 with Roman numerals on the dial (reference 3800/1JA) and a leather strap (reference 5060/SJ). The latter inspired a future Patek Philippe classic that launched in 1997 : Aquanaut.

Platinum shine The pair of Nautilus models Patek Philippe is unveiling this winter are made to celebrate the 40th anniversary with a nod to the past and a look to the future. One model features basic time functions in platinum and the other measures time in white gold.

Anything exclusive is precious so there are just 700 numbered editions of the Nautilus reference 5711/1P. It’s designed especially for collectors and fans of the model.

The reference 3700/1A which inspired it had a steel case but this anniversary piece is made of a silvery, premium and strong metal: 950 platinum. Platinum may be an asset in everyday life but it’s tricky to work with.

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Co ver st ory Pat e k PhiliPPe

36 A 42mm case size was seen as “ very large ” in 1976 whereas that’s absolutely not the case today as it has become pretty standard, especially among sports watches. The new Nautilus is true to current standards and held onto the original model’s strong look with contemporary sizes: 44mm diameter and 8.3mm thick. Its 3-part case is waterproof to depths of 120m.

It has a screwdown crown and wide, slightly edgy bezel (in keeping with the collection’s DNA) whose surface features a vertical satin finish. A tiny 0.02 carat diamond sits on the side of the bezel at 6. This subtle touch is actually a signature that all platinum pieces by Patek Philippe share.

True to the Nautilus legacy, the dial wears a sailor top whose yellow gold sunburst background elevates the blue PVD coating. The wide horizontal stripes are hollowed out and the 3D effect is heightened by a Sfumato style: light blue in the centre where the hands spring from gradually gets darker towards the chapter ring. A hollowed-out engraving at 6 split in two reminds wearers what the limited edition is for : “ 40 ” and “ 1976-2016 ”.

The hour rim has twelve baton-shape markers each bearing a baguette-cut diamond totalling 0.34 carats. The luminescent white gold baton-shape hands in the centre track the hours and minutes alongside a rhodium-plated bronze central seconds hand. The easy-to-read white date display lies at 3.

The Nautilus reference 571/1P’s functions are fuelled by the 324 S C calibre. The self-winding movement runs at 28,000 beats per hour (4Hz) and its power reserve lasts 35-45 hours.

The charm of a chronograph There are 1300 of the new limited, numbered Nautilus

reference 5976/1G flyback chronograph available. It is inspired by the reference 5980 celebrating the 30th anniversary of the collection in 2006. The case size has gone from a chunky 45.5mm to an even chunkier 49.25mm. True to tradition, the white gold case still has the lateral strips along the sides that enhance its nautical personality. It’s a chronograph so there are two elongated pushers at 2 (start and stop) and 4 (reset and flyback).

The reference 5976/1G is fuelled by a self-winding movement whose power reserve lasts 45-55 hours : the CH 28-520 C calibre. Its unidirectional rotor is made of gold meaning it’s heavier and faster and better to wind. Just like the aforementioned Nautilus, the accuracy of the movement is guaranteed by two inventions designed and patented by Patek Philippe, the first in 1949 and the second in 2006: the Gyromax® balance wheel (whose screws are replaced by small weights) and the Spiromax® spring in Silinvar® (an innovative, anti-magnetic and rust-resistant material). Most of the CH 28-520 C calibre’s 213 components are handmade.

The chronograph’s start/stop and reset / flyback functions are controlled by a column wheel whilst a vertical disc system starts and stops the timer. Last but not least, the date instantly changes by leaping in a tenth of a second.

In terms of design, just like the Nautilus reference 5711/1P, the dial features thick hollowed-out stripes in the same blue (the background is coated in copper PVD and not yellow gold) with almost imperceptible rays and an inky effect created

by Sfumato. Eleven diamond markers (8 baguette-cut gems at the top of the dial and 3 princess-cut jewels at 3, 5 and 7) form the hour rim around an accurate minute track. The

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Nautilus anniversary date appears in a line between 10 and 2 (“ 1976-40-2016 ” with a slightly bigger “ 40 ”) to give pride of place to the chronograph features at the bottom of the dial. A white counter at 6 houses three counters (the minutes are split in two) with white lacquer copper hands. The darker outer ring on the single counter bears the 12-hour chronograph. The minutes are split from 1-30 and 31-60.

The current hours and minutes appear in the centre tracked by two luminescent white gold hands and the date display lies at 3. The flyback chronograph’s perfect mechanism keeps rubbing, and therefore wear, to a minimum so the steel chronograph central seconds hand can be used to track the current seconds.

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Jérôme Lambert : “ You can always expect something more from a Montblanc watch ”

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By Sharmila Bertin & Mickael Gautier

J

érôme Lambert, President of Montblanc, splits his time between the brand’s HQ and pen department in Hamburg, Richemont Group meetings and watchmaking in Switzerland and the leather department in Italy.

Despite his busy schedule, he took time out to meet us and answer our questions.

A competitive and creative spirit is deeply rooted in our brand. There’s a reason we’re called Montblanc (smiles).

We also challengers at heart and that certainly ties into the founding of our watch brand in Le Locle just 20 years ago and the drive to prove that Montblanc is capable of making amazing products.

It’s been three years since you joined Montblanc. How do you feel ?

That’s right I started in July 2013 and now I feel…busy! ( laughs) I’m delighted to see how the brand has rallied behind a new ambition, a new means of expression, a new drive. It’s always a challenge to reinvent a brand that’s over 100 years old; you can never tell how quickly and in what way the brand will focus on a new target when you take over.

In any event, I’m very pleased with how quickly the teams, collections (so the teams first) have come together to make it happen in the three main areas. It’s an opportunity. The ability to start afresh depends on two things: the brand’s DNA and its talents. We’re lucky to have both at Montblanc.

Given your watch-based career, how did you adapt to Montblanc’s other departments ?

To start with, you keep an eye on the other brands when you’ve been in watchmaking for a while. When I was at Jaeger-LeCoultre, I kept an eye on what was happening at Montblanc and not for the sake of rhetoric. I noticed that in the past 3-5 years they had launched truly revolutionary models, technically amazing things for a brand without a 200 year legacy. I was very impressed by what Montblanc presented at the SIHH for two or three years in a row.

Yes, leather goods and writing instruments take time to understand. The main advantage with leather is that the cycles are very fast. So if you’re a quick learner, you’ve soon

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got it (smiles). Montblanc launches two leather collections a year so it’s all very fast. In the space of a year a collection is designed, made and launched. You get the idea quickly. The second advantage is that we’re very involved which makes it easier to learn as every door is open, you get to grips with it and grasp how the department works.

Pens took the most time. To start with, Montblanc has 110 years of history so that’s how deep the roots go! ( laughs).

You have to take the time to read all about it and grasp the history. Montblanc is also a benchmark brand which means the perception of its responsibility and symbolic value play an increasingly important role. These factors always take more time to understand and I’m still learning every day! ( laughs) Did you want to give one of the three areas your own touch when you arrived or tackle them all at the same time ?

We’re lucky to be a brand whose business is split into different departments so you can’t neglect any of them. You have to embrace them at the same time to be able to grow with the teams and support them on the journey. Montblanc’s vision, roots and new ambition meant it was vital for them to come together.

Are you involved in product design ?

Yes and it’s undoubtedly part of the work that makes it even more interesting. You never do it with the same intensity, you never play exactly the same role in the three teams or four teams if you include accessories.

Isn’t it hard to manage ?

It is hard to manage but the products are also very different.

When I worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne at the same time with products in the same sector with parallel histories, it was touchier and trickier. You have to be able to separate things, get involved and have a good memory, good teams and the ability to work almost automatically. When you have a good working relationship with someone, a word, intonation or email is all it takes. You don’t need ten pages if you know each other well and work intuitively with teams.

We soon built a good standard of articulated and intuitive performance. The ability to work separately with different teams and have a specific approach makes things more interesting and helps teams work better.

That means that in the watchmaking department, I’ll be more involved in how to approach the result. For example, if I think a watch is too heavy, I’ll provide features that the team can use to counter it.

However, in leather goods I just share my opinion about the details, look of the leather or function. It’s not my personal taste. I say what I expect of a product without going into features that will help satisfy these expectations e.g. if I think something’s too heavy, not detailed enough, that you can’t feel the leather enough or it’s the wrong size. That said, I won’t tell teams that the stitch needs reducing by half a millimetre or to source zips from a certain supplier. Over time we become more precise and go more into detail but I leave those things to the team. Also, leather goods are 3D pieces so the design is a huge part of it and you have to let the design team work.

It’s different again in pens as you need details that will enable you to express value and you have to be able to feel the features related to performance and function. You use a pen, you love it and you have a direct experience with it

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meaning its weight, balance, temperature and your mood.

All these things are very specific so you can’t do without them.

You really have to focus on detail to interact with the teams.

The world of writing instruments is very interesting because it doesn’t just translate the soul but making a beautiful and good pen is incredibly technical. It takes days and months to design the right pen but deciding if it’s “right or wrong” takes a second. With a watch, it takes 2 or 3 years to design but it doesn’t take a second to decide if it’s “right or wrong”, unless it’s love at first sight, because you’re going to use the functions or look at the edges etc. It’s instant with pens: it either works or it doesn’t. The relationship between function, comfort and perception is no trifling matter. The Meisterstück has become an icon because it’s undoubtedly one of the best pens around.

The quill in itself is a fabulous piece of work.

After arriving you carried on the classic style of Montblanc watches and focused heavily on watches for women with beautiful mechanical pieces. Do you intend to explore this area further ?

We’ve stuck with a classic style because it’s still important for people to understand the depth of Montblanc’s technical skills and classic models tend to do that best. We were more struck or influenced by movement features than design features. Classic watchmaking is the best fit as we want to show that Montblanc takes its work very seriously in terms of movement, technical invention, reliability and quality. That said, it won’t be the only one ad vitam aeternam. The 1858 collection already has an almost neo-vintage style. We based it on the design of a 1930s piece at Minerva and made its feel and style more contemporary.

As for women’s watches, women mainly use Montblanc products in their so-called daytime, professional or other activities so we’ve made timepieces that meet their “ daily ” needs with a classic style rather than something sporty, dressy or sparkly. Then we worked on functions that reflect self-confidence. When a woman works, she works like a man. There’s no difference. Not all men use their perpetual calendar or tourbillon every ten seconds but there’s a symbolic value to these products and what they embody in terms of power and success. It’s only natural that we give women the same opportunity to express or own these values. They are attractive mechanical watches whose technical functions are quite advanced, and yes, we’re going to continue down this route as it’s part of the journey.

Montblanc has always been about creating and inventing items for achievement and achievers whether they be male or female. It’s only natural that we do as much for women as we do for men. We’ve designed their own range (editor’s note: Bohème) rather than a version of a men’s watch that we’ve fitted with pretty movements. The Bohème ExoTourbillon Slim was perfect because it’s super-slim and is under 1cm thick. Tourbillons for women are often too high because they’re based on men’s calibres whereas our watch is well-proportioned and well-designed. You can always expect something more from a Montblanc watch. That’s our philosophy.

We wouldn’t have been able to put a tourbillon chronograph in a women’s watch because it would have been too big and chunky and women tend to have smaller wrists than men.

It’s not sexism; it’s physiology. We adapt our watches to how they’re worn and their comfort.

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Your watch pricing is very aggressive and I don’t mean that in a negative way. “ Very aggressive ” suits me. We discussed writing instruments earlier and how you can tell a product’s value in a matter of seconds. The notion of value is very important to the brand that’s designed the product and that goes into the price you pay for the product you get. For us, exploring and expressing watchmaking in this way with this demand and in this sector is part of our job. It’s within the level of demand that we believe our clients have the right to expect of Montblanc. In any case, it’s how we see our clients’ expectations.

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Photos © Mickael Gautier

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C hopar d

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Turning 20 and travelling L.U.C. class

By Sharmila Bertin

W

hen we interviewed Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in spring*, Chopard’s co-president hinted that he and his team were working on a surprise to celebrate the L.U.C. collection’s 20 th anniversary in autumn. Some of my fellow journalists tried to dig up more information about the new product but I didn’t want to ruin the surprise. I waited patiently, watched spring slip into summer then early autumn…and now the secret is out!

The new L.U.C. is designed for globe-trotting gentlemen like Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a stylish man who’s always on the move, with a GMT function that doesn’t affect its classic looks.

The second time zone display and settings are easy to read and use with two crowns on the case and the two-tone ring on the dial.

Let’s go back to the start of the L.U.C. collection which appeared in 1996 in Chopard’s Fleurier workshops in the Jura municipality of Val-de-Travers. The Genevan brand

only occupied part of one floor in the current building and didn’t own it at the time. The idea of having his own factory came to the visionary Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in the early 90s. The classic watch collector and fine workmanship enthusiast wanted to give Chopard a “ homemade ” aspect.

His passion fuelled the L.U.C. collection named after the founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard (1836-1915) in tribute to the past and celebration of the future. The L.U.C. has now reached a milestone : 20.

There are two versions of the L.U.C GMT One: a steel one at a fairly competitive price given its in-house calibre and perfect finish (9500 Swiss Francs) and one in glowing rose gold. Both are fuelled by the same movement designed and made in Fleurier: the new COSC-certified self-winding L.U.C 01.10-L calibre brings to life the functions and 60-hour power reserve.

Both models have a 42mm case with a sapphire crystal back to gaze through. Two crowns stamped with the brand logo

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stand at 2 and 4 on the case. The former sets the date and local time whilst the latter controls home time.

The steel model’s dark dial contrasts with silver metal and a flash of orange for a timeless, stylish and exciting effect. The delicate sunburst black centre is surrounded by an hour rim with edgy cone-shape markers and Arabic numerals coated in white Super-LumiNova®. The local hours and minutes are tracked by two dauphine-shape rhodium-plated hands with a luminescent strip alongside a silver central seconds hand. A slender orange hand with a phosphorescent tip glides over the wide sunken chapter ring from the centre. The chapter ring is divided into two colours just like the 24-hour indicator, anthracite with a white hour scale from 6.30am to 6.30pm and black with orange numbers from 6.30pm to 6.30am for night time. The low-key date appears in a white-on-black display at 6.

The more sophisticated rose gold model has a bronze dial with gold hands. Day time is black on silver on the GMT function’s ring whilst night time is white on golden brown. * The Watches Magazine #045, Summer 2016 issue

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Darwel

EmbracE timE Our story, our brand, our passion. carole & Pierre Dubois

carole and Pierre Dubois. a love story that gives a unique beat to their lives and their watch creations.

Pictured here, two his and hers world-exclusive royal retro models with their six dancing retrograde seconds hands.

PiErrE DErOchE - LE rEvErs 1 - 1345 LE LiEu - switzErLanD - t. +41 21 841 11 69 - www.PiErrEDErOchE.cOm

R e b e llion

1,000 hour power reserve

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By Fabrice Eschmann

R

ebellion has a long-standing passion for motor racing.

Rebellion Timepieces is the only watch brand to have its own team with two cars racing in the 24 Heures du Mans so it’s no wonder that motor racing is its main source of inspiration. The T-1000 epitomises its passion made in partnership with designer Eric Giroud and watchmaker David Candaux, two stars on the Swiss watchmaking scene.

This piece is packed with prowess and unique features just like the two R-One LMP1 cars by Rebellion Racing. Let’s start with its extraordinary endurance : six barrels fuel the T-1000’s 1000-hour power reserve. That’s 40 days and 40 nights. This sort of performance by a manual-wind movement has simply never been done before !

Once the movement has been wound, the accumulated couple exceeds 7 kilos/mm² – a standard movement has 800g of pressure. The brand had to design a system that performed far better than the classic crown to refuel the six barrels so a lever incorporated into the body paired with a minuscule transmission chain (that you can see on the side) powers all the tanks at the same time.

This sort of power needs a specific build. The plate (or should we say chassis given how much it looks like a car ?) is made from a single block of titanium. It houses a vertical aluminium movement whereby the hours and minutes appear on two adjoining cylinders. A tilted balance wheel at 6 (the only feature facing us) vibrates at a frequency of 18,000 beats/

hour (2.5 hertz). It took three years of research, development and adjustments to make the calibre. The movement and bodywork are designed and made together and work together perfectly despite the incredible 46.7 x 49.5mm dimensions.

This type of vertical movement is a rarity in watchmaking given the countless challenges it has to overcome. Parmigiani was certainly the first to unveil this sort of system in its Bugatti model in 2004 ; Cabestan followed suit in 2008 with its Winch Tourbillon Vertical then Hublot in 2013 with the MP-05 La Ferrari. The first and last may be inspired by motor racing like Rebellion but Cabestan is all about sailing.

The T-1000 comes in two metals (titanium and rose gold) and five aluminium colours (black, red, blue, purple and gold on the gold model).

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Ar nold & Son

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Enlightened watchmaking

By Fabrice Eschmann

E

veryone knows that Arnold & Son specialises in “ deadbeat seconds ” but the most British brand in La Chauxde-Fonds is also fond of “ wandering hours ”. The complications both appeared in the 18th century and epitomise the Age of Enlightenment which brought us John Arnold and his son Roger. They are more modern than ever and have come together on this new version of the Golden Wheel.

Pocket watches with wandering hours were inspired by 17th century Italian clocks and soon became popular in England.

Seconds didn’t exist at the time and this display provided more surfaces to decorate and an original alternative to the regular two hands. You would tell the time through a semi-circular display at the top of the dial rimmed by a rotating disc. It tracked the hours along a fixed arch bearing the minutes.

The only thing that’s really changed on the Golden Wheel is that it’s no longer hiding its inner workings. It unleashes an impressive satellite system: three sapphire discs powered by a central gold wheel feature the half-day’s 12 hours. Like the models of old, current time ticks by on a white mother-ofpearl arch passing slowly along the minutes engraved on the chapter ring. Once the 60th minute is up, the next disc enters stage left as the first jumps to the next hour. The system ticks along the same path every three hours.

Another invention from the Enlightenment is the “ dead-beat seconds ” or “ true seconds ”, a prelude to the chronograph.

When the seconds hand appeared in the late 18th century, it was subject to the balance spring’s oscillation speed: four jumps per second with a 2 hertz frequency, six jumps for 3 hertz. However, the tempo didn’t suit sailors or astronomers who needed a base time to determine positions.

The “ dead-beat seconds ” between the escapement and second wheel has a small spring storing energy that is only released once the second is up meaning the hand only jumps 60 times a minute on the dial.

There are just 125 of the 44mm red gold Golden Wheel available. Naturally, its self-winding mechanical movement is made in-house.

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B lanc pain

Blancpain dives back into Fifty Fathoms

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By Inès Aloui

B

lancpain’s bolt from the blue sees the Swiss brand puts a new spin on its iconic Fifty Fathoms. Unlike the classic model, it has a ceramic blue case bringing the ocean to mind. There are 250 of the limited edition Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback Ocean Commitment II available. Blancpain is loyal to its charities and will put some of the profits for each timepiece towards supporting science expeditions. Watchmaking for a good cause !

consistent and durable colour throughout the case. The first presses powdered ceramic into a mould to take shape. The second injects granules into a mould. The latter technique is suitable for small pieces, very precise and hard to master.

Before Blancpain, this method was yet to produce conclusive and sufficiently stable results to achieve a range of blues. It was also hard to get a similar colour with both techniques.

Mission accomplished!

A historical diver The Swiss brand, one of the oldest in the world, has been making mechanical watches that need no introduction since 1735. Its star model, the Fifty Fathoms, sealed the brand’s success when it launched in 1953. The watch was originally commissioned by the French army’s combat swimmers who needed a reliable watch for their underwater expeditions. It set the benchmark for diving watches and famous explorers such as Jacques Cousteau made it their failsafe ally on their adventures.

A twist on a classic The new Chronographe Flyback BOC II houses the F385 calibre whose chronograph mechanism runs at 36,000 beats per hour (5Hz), the perfect frequency for a chronograph as it can split every second into tenth of a second intervals. This sort of accuracy is essential to expeditions and dives. It’s waterproof to depths of 300m and has a vertical gear to ensure the chronograph works perfectly and stop the hand jumping unexpectedly when triggered. We should mention that whereas standard chronographs need three manipulations to measure successive events, it has a flyback function that instantly resets and restarts the chronograph with a touch of the pusher at 4. A real asset for diving fans.

A true blue case Blancpain came up with a specific process to make this limited series in sea blue. It took years of work to get the result they wanted. The intense and mysterious blue is made by adding pigments whilst making the ceramic combined with a binder. Two techniques were used to achieve a

A good cause Blancpain’s commitment to the underwater world has seen it promote ocean knowledge and protection for over 60

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years. The brand supports countless major science projects including the Gombessa Project led by Laurent Ballesta which has already been on three major expeditions. This time 1000 EUR from the sale of every limited edition Fifty Fathoms goes towards supporting science expeditions dear to the brand. Every owner of a limited edition BOC II watch can become a member of "Blancpain Ocean Commitment" and get a certificate about their donation. On top of that, every client will receive an exclusive copy of the new book by the famous biologist and diving pioneer Hans Hass, Awakening to a New World, whose edition number matches the watch’s serial number. The rare book has never been published in full before and recounts his first sea expeditions. Undoubtedly a unique brand !

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T ISSOT

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The roar of prestige

By Sharmila Bertin

I

n the aftermath of World War I (1914-1918), people in Europe and America lived through the interwar period from 1919 until 1939 when the Second World War broke out. Despite the stock market crash in 1929, tangible tension in international business and the laborious post-war reconstruction, this transitional period was a hotbed for creativity. Different sectors were bursting with innovations, especially in personal transport with the boom of the automobile and development of aviation.

Roaring inspiration An artistic and popular movement arose in France which was heavily influenced by American culture : “ Les Années Folles ” (the Roaring Twenties). They began in 1920 and ended in 1929 after the Wall Street Crash. The decade stood out for major economic growth and a flourishing art scene. It saw the appearance of Art Deco whose geometric lines made way for curvaceous Art Nouveau then the Surrealist movement that delved into literature, poetry, sculpture, art, cinema

and music such as jazz, dance (Charleston and the tango) in the music halls and dance clubs imported from the US and adapted to suit European taste. People could start really living again after a long period of international conflict.

The prosperous and productive Roaring Twenties have inspired the watch brand Tissot to design a new collection focused entirely on ladies.

Roaring appeal The new collection has five models in rose or yellow gold fuelled by a quartz movement. The rectangular case has two straight strips that curve around the lugs. They are 34.5mm long, 20 wide and 5.3 deep and wrap around the wrist with a black or brown smooth and shiny leather strap and deployment clasp. An extra dash of style comes from the white or black ceramic cabochon adorned with a notched crown.

There are two dial options: classic silver or black sunburst ideal for daywear or elegant white mother-of-pearl and diamond for the evening.

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The classic version’s central rectangle is decorated with wavy engine-turned engravings and slender black or white markers and Roman numerals. The blue small seconds counter is rimmed in gold.

The glamorous version has a low-key black minute track in the centre giving pride of place to four diamond markers.

The subtle small seconds have a dash of daring blue on the counter.

A pair of dauphine-shape rose or yellow gold hands in the middle of the dial track the hours and minutes.

Now it's up to you to decide when it's time to roar.

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Vac he r on c onstant in

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Suit yourself

By Sharmila Bertin

I

t says “ a real wardrobe is like a marshalled army, not just a cupboard stuffed full of clothes ” on the world’s biggest fabric manufacturer’s website, Vitale Barberis Canonico.

The Italian company founded in Piedmont near Biella, 80km north of Turin, has been around for 353 years and run by the same family for thirteen generations.

The word “army” is apt given that being well-dressed demands iron discipline. Similarly, the manufacturer also tells us that the “ weave ” is “ the plan of construction for a textile, the code which the warp and weft must follow. ” Every year Vitale Barberis Canonico designs 5000 fabric styles and 5 of them have inspired the creative team and artisans at Vacheron Constantin overseen by Christian Selmoni. You just have to look at the five models to see the stylish artistic director’s stamp. The friendly giant embodies masculine sophistication and is always beautifully dressed in a dark suit (usually double-breasted) made of rich woven fabric with a silk patterned or bright tie. Christian Selmoni is what we call

a sartorialist, someone with an interest in tailoring in terms of cuts, fabrics and quality craftsmanship.

Going back to the Métiers d'Art Elégance Sartoriale watches, Vacheron Constantin has been inspired by classic tailoring, traditional weaves and a dash of debonair flair to decorate the dials in the watch collection.

Just like in a man’s wardrobe or tailor’s studio, patterns blend with colours and fabrics in a fabulous watchmaking show.

Raspberry Prince of Wales check, blue grey herringbone, brown windowpane check, buttercup pinstripes and blue tartan are engraved almost all over each watch’s gold dial before being coated in colourful translucent Grand Feu enamel. Every lip-rimmed disc seems to melt into the white or rose gold case.

Two vintage-style hands with an openwork tip track the hours and minutes off-centre in an ecru subdial at 3. Depending on the model, the subdial is made like an eyelet using an upholstery machine with designs that you tend to see on ties

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and silk pocket squares peeking out of blazer breast pockets: Paisley, floral or geometric patterns. The black Roman hour numerals on a mother-of-pearl ring bring to mind buttons on cuff sleeves or running down a shirt.

The functions only tell the time and are fuelled by the 1400 calibre with a 40-hour power reserve. You can watch the manual-wind mechanical movement in action through a sapphire crystal porthole at the back of the 39mm case.

The exquisite should also be exclusive so this MĂŠtiers d'Art ElĂŠgance Sartoriale collection is only available in Vacheron Constantin stores.

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He r mè s

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A colourful quarter century !

By Sharmila Bertin

2

5 years ago, the Simple, Classic and Elegant Fairies granted the Cape Cod its wish to transcend time and keep the purity that makes it a unique princess.

The Hermès watch collections’ star model is celebrating its anniversary and filling its wardrobe with brightly coloured dials and straps.

Sketching an icon Henry d’Origny began working for the Parisian brand in 1958 and was the brains behind the Arceau (1978) and Clipper (1981) models. The president of Hermès Jean-Louis Dumas (1938-2010) asked him to design a square model in 1991. A day and a few pencil lines later, the designer had sketched out a rectangular watch with a square dial inspired by the shape of Hermès’ iconic Chaîne d'Ancre designed in the 1930s by Robert Dumas. Henry d'Origny named it after his American wife’s holiday destination: Cape Cod. Wrapping the wrist in leather Seven years after the Cape Cod’s launch, Belgian designer Martin Margiela and founder of Maison Martin Margiela who was then the head of ready-to-wear at Hermès (Jean-Paul

Gaultier took over in 2004), decided to treat the watch to a new strap. The leather strap around the wrist was lengthened to create the famous double strap, a soft strip of leather to go around the wrist twice. The Cape Cod is half cuff, half trendy bracelet making it stand out on the arm.

Playing with stones The Cape Cod is giving diamonds to three of its steel “GM” for “ Grand Modèle ” (29x29mm) watches for its 25th anniversary.

White mother-of-pearl dials glimmer with diamonds, midnight black onyx and hypnotic blue lapis-lazuli. Each mineral is more than just a finish or colour ; it’s a symbol. Mother-ofpearl isn’t just a shimmering natural coating ; its milky gleam reflects maternal and protective values. Onyx is grounding and sturdy to deflect negative influences. Lapis-lazuli is the sacred gem for love, friendship and bravery.

Seducing with colour To use Henry d'Origny’s words, Hermès is first and foremost a brand driven by creativity. It also knows how to use its assets : colour. Hermès’ exciting, vibrant and unique hues are always a colourful dose of joy and style. Like an artist’s palette, the range of tones available for single or double straps

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are straight from poetry: classic black, orange and raspberry, lyric ultraviolet, sapphire, lime, iris, peacock, ember and fuchsia. Depending on the colour, the interchangeable straps come in calfskin (smooth, grain or Barenia), Mysore goatskin or smooth crocodile skin.

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Bau me & me r c ie r

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A demonstration of force

By Fabrice Eschmann

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hilst the watch industry holds its breath in this tough time and falls back on more affordable steel models, Baume & Mercier has quietly unveiled a Clifton Perpetual Calendar in 18k red gold. What makes it even more surprising is that the Richemont brand is in the entry-level sector with mechanical or quartz pieces priced very competitively (2000-4000 Swiss Francs). Is this a desperate or thoughtless act ? Not really.

The Genevan brand has launched a piece outside its comfort zone pretty much every year for the last three years : the Clifton Flying Tourbillon at the 2014 SIHH that much was written about, the Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve in late 2014 and the Clifton 5 Minute Repeater in 2015. These limited edition and exceptional (in every sense of the word) designs weren’t made to ramp up the luxury but are part of a carefully thought-out strategy : “ Baume & Mercier has a 186 year old legacy, ” says CEO Alain

Zimmermann. “ We thought we needed to remind people of it.

These aren’t commercial pieces ; they’re a sort of comfort, a way to put things into perspective. ” So this is about education paired with communication whose straight talking and transparency differ from the sector’s norms: “ We’ve never tried to make people think we’re a big factory, ” says Alain Zimmermann. “ We don’t rename the movements we buy. On the contrary, we use the best in every area. It used to be called “ établissage ”, one of the brand’s core values. ” This Clifton Perpetual Calendar also has a “ mechanical memory ” of 1461 days (4 years) that brings to life the Vaucher Manufacture 5401 self-winding movement based on the DuboisDépraz 5100 module. The movement displays the date, day of the week, month and moon phases and automatically takes into account different month durations and leap years up until 2100 which isn’t a leap year.

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Its 42 grams of gold (usually 30g), 48-hour power reserve (42 usually), 42mm case size, very limited production (30 pieces) and price (20,000 Swiss Francs) make this model a demonstration of force. Duly noted.

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E t Er na

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And lo, Eterna created the eternal woman

By Sharmila Bertin

A

s the French novelist and academic Henry de Montherlant (1895-1972) put it so beautifully in Les jeunes filles published in 1936, “Eternity is another word for embrace.” Eterna has put a delicious and playful spin on his words and called its new ladies’ watch collection: Eternity Lady. Here’s a range of subtle pieces that wrap the wrist in a loving embrace.

Steely gaze Classic romanticism and precious stones come together to create a piece that comes in six models as women celebrate diversity. The Eternity Lady is first and foremost a watch with the perfect low-key proportions on a black or white leather strap whose waffle design brings to mind crocodile

scales or a strap with seven rows of steel links. The 32mm steel case houses a quartz movement with a silver or gold crown topped by a blue cabochon to set the time functions.

The case features a polished steel or gold PVD-coated bezel paved with a row of 68 brilliant-cut diamonds on certain models.

Glowing radiance The effect created by the row of glittering gems is elevated by eight diamonds. The diamond markers are bevelled and paved in pairs on the dial. The combination of 76 gleaming gems (on the bezel and markers) capture light on the dial and intensify the shimmering glow from the white motherof-pearl.

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The milky disc bears Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 interspersed with either diamond teardrop markers on mother-of-pearl or slender, triangular, faceted silver indices.

The Eternity Lady collection only tells the time: hours and minutes tracked by two slim baton-shape hands in metal or gold depending on the model you choose.

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Lou is Vu it t on

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An ode to travel

By Inès Aloui

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ollowing the success of the Escale Time Zone collection in 2015, Louis Vuitton has unveiled a table clock from the same series for Christmas. The iconic brand has made a statement with this unique item as mobile phones and smartwatches delve deeper into innovation.

A legendary multicolour dial from the Parisian brand LV are more than initials; they’re an invitation for adventure.

Louis Vuitton was founded in 1854 and designed flat trunks that were easier to stack than the dome-lidded trunks at the time. Its recognised and renowned expertise went global and its name came to epitomise escape. The trunks soon became must-have accessories for globetrotters to travel the world in style.

With this in mind, the dials on the Escale Time Zone collection play on the geometric and colourful patterns that enable Louis Vuitton fans to tailor their trunks. The brand uses a unique artisan technique, “ décalque ”, to decorate the dial. The process involves transferring paint onto the dial using a silicon-coated rubber stamp, colour after colour. The

technique brings to life strips of colour, shields, initials and other designs painted on the dial. A total of six bright colours make the Louis Vuitton table clock a “ pop ” piece of design.

A handbag collection in the same vein is scheduled to launch soon.

The 65mm globe-shape clock features a disc with dark stripes saying Time Zone in the middle of the sapphire crystal. A slim minute hand and small triangular hand burst from the globe to track local time. The table clock is made of stainless steel and rosewood with a mineral glass sphere that oozes class.

You’ll need to shell out 950 EUR to get your hands on this oldfashioned piece.

A playful complication The table clock is designed with globetrotters in mind and has a classic GMT function with an extra hand to tell the time in the second time zone. The playful table clock displays the time instantly in 24 time zones. Local time appears in the centre with a classic triangular hour hand and slim minute hand. A 24-hour disc can be adjusted using

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the crown to set the time opposite the name of the city in question.

14 years after launching its first watch model, the Tambour, the French brand has kept the innovations coming in recent years and has earned its stripes among top Swiss watchmakers.

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Port r ait

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Joël Dicker : cool and quill

By Sharmila Bertin

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t’s mid-September, it’s still nice outside and I’ve got a lunch meeting in a little Italian deli that serves food called Les Saveurs d'Italie in central Geneva. I don’t want to be late so I arrive very early and anxiety takes hold. I’m often stressed before an interview but this one is making me extra nervous because I’m not meeting a key figure in watchmaking or an artistic director who I admire ; I’m meeting a famous writer (who I also admire). Not being smart enough, asking silly questions … Total panic.

Joël Dicker arrives with his hands in his jeans pockets with a Klein blue jumper to match his eyes and the dial on his Piaget Polo S watch, trainers on his feet and a big smile on his face.

His relaxed attitude and cool look reminds me of my brother and I instantly forget the stress that was eating me up ten minutes before. We introduce ourselves and sit in the little restaurant’s kitchen surrounded by freshly sliced tomatoes and smooth balls of mozzarella di bufala on the table and staff busying themselves at the hobs after greeting the writer with a warm “Hi Joël !” It feels like home.

Joël Dicker was born on June 16th 1985 in Geneva and is a

Swiss writer who has published three novels in the space of five years : Les Derniers Jours de nos pères (2010), Le Livre des Baltimore (2015) and the famous La Vérité sur l'affaire Harry Québert (2012) which has been translated into 40 languages, sold 4 million copies and won countless awards including the Grand Prix du Roman from the Académie Française. You see why I was so nervous ? Joël Dicker is more than a local celebrity that local shopkeepers greet with a warm welcome.

He’s a world-famous literature star who strolls through Geneva’s streets, is ten years younger than me and suddenly asks me “Can I call you Sharmila?”. Err yes, yes of course.

You’re surely wondering why a journalist specialising in watchmaking is interviewing a young Genevan novelist on a table in a noisy kitchen ? Simply because Joël Dicker wears a self-winding Piaget Polo S chronograph. For the international launch of the new watch collection, Piaget chose nine celebrity game changers from different sectors to embody the soul of the watch. Nine passionate men who break the mould and Joël Dicker is one of them. I ask him point blank what a game changer is. “A game changer is someone who follows their

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own rules and not other people’s rules, who goes with their gut rather than worrying what people think.” A rebel but not a renegade. “When I say rules, I don’t mean rules in life or society.”

What really bothers him is the importance placed on other people, the need to always be on social networks and get “likes”, the “obsession for self-validation through someone else.” He’s often discussed the comparison between someone playing on their phone and someone reading a book. “In both cases, the person is cut off from the other but the difference is that if you’re reading a book, you’re bettering yourself but if you’re play a game on your mobile, you’re getting a bit weaker every day,” says the novelist. I’m going to delete Candy Crush from my iPhone as soon as this interview’s over. Joël Dicker says: “That’s the danger, what we use our heads for despite us now having so many ways to create or have access to other things.”

Joël Dicker tells me that signing a partnership with Swiss Airlines a year ago shocked a lot of people because, in collective thought, a writer shouldn’t advertise as he’s seen as “above other people.” That didn’t stop Piaget approaching him and offering to make him a friend of the brand for Switzerland.

Before accepting the role of ambassador, Joël Dicker asked to see the Piaget Polo S and the watch’s youthful and versatile side instantly won him over. He went for a blue dial (“because I like blue”) and the chronograph function so he could take it with him for sport.

Was Joël Dicker interested in watchmaking before the collaboration with Piaget ? “Yes, like everyone in Switzerland.

Watches naturally appeal to us. It’s a source of real pride for us, unique expertise, a flagbearer. It’s rare to see a Swiss

person not wearing a Swiss watch.” I try to think which of my friends wear a watch that isn’t Swiss Made. Joël Dicker is right: Swiss watchmaking is deeply rooted in Switzerland’s genes.

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Int e r vIe w

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Fabergé comes out of its shell

By Tiffany Cartier-Millon

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fter being taken over by the Pallinghurst group in 2007 followed by a merger with Gemfields in 2012 and hard work restoring the brand to its former glory, Fabergé is gaining ground in the watch sector. A dramatic turn of events applauded by the industry and a sizeable challenge taken on by a young woman who has been working behind the scenes at Audemars Piguet up to now.

Aurélie Picaud tells us about her hard-won journey and her vision for Fabergé’s watch collections.

How did you end up at Fabergé ?

It started when I met a headhunter who let me in on the challenge of implementing a strategy to design new Fabergé watch collections.

The German company Mohr Time had owned the licence up to then and their contract was soon up.

Deep down, I didn’t want to leave the job I loved as product manager at AP but I’m inquisitive…that said, Sean Gilbertson (editor’s note CEO of Fabergé) seemed put off by my youth when I met him.

Surprisingly though, our meeting ended on a high! Ideas were flying and he turned his back on convention to listen to his heart and bet on the future.

I soon launched four range projects, the main thing was to get the right suppliers for every project.

Why make watches ? How does it relate to Fabergé’s history ?

Fabergé made beautiful clocks until the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917. The focus was often on the display e.g. a snake tells the time on the Blue Serpent Clock Egg. Movements came from Vacheron Constantin and H. Moser & Cie among others.

There are also lots of designs for ladies’ watches from the time of the first wristwatches in our archives. There were even automata…The fact is that Fabergé has always contributed to mechanical design. This take on time has its place among the brand’s three pillars: watches, jewellery and decorative items.

Peter-Carl Fabergé, the founder, also surrounded himself with work masters renowned in their sector so, with this in mind, we reached out to Jean-Marc Wiederrecht for the complication project and the Neuchâtel branch of Sébastien Perret for the design.

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What challenges have you faced ?

It’s not been easy! A huge amount of work went into removing certain licences from the brand (fragrance, jewellery) before I even started.

Then we had to convince suppliers to work with us. Nobody likes small-volume orders, especially not dial makers. I wore Jean-Marc Wiederrecht down for a meeting! He ended up agreeing to a half-hour meeting during which his attitude changed and the project won him over.

Everything had to be ready in a record time of 18 months.

Fortunately the teams made a huge contribution. We were on tenterhooks until Basel: the renowned master watchmakers we work with may have grabbed people’s attention but it’s word of mouth that got our stand packed out! Nobody would have expected us to get to where we are.

Do you have a specific dream ? A dream collaboration or project ?

There are lots of independent watchmakers we’d like to work with. Too many to list but I admire the work of Emmanuel Bouchet.

With hindsight, what would you do differently ?

There’s no doubt you can always do better. The project meant me moving to London and I’m often travelling for events etc. If I had a magic wand I’d spend more time in Switzerland with the team that’s been in place for several months and to see suppliers and journalists.

It paid off …The Lady Compliquée Peacock won the Ladies’ High-Mech Watch Prize at the 2015 GPHG. What’s in the pipeline ?

We want established watch collections and to carry on playing with complications. In watchmaking terms, we’re preparing for certain ranges to get the Geneva Seal. We’re focusing on innovation in materials just like Fabergé always has. With Gemfields, we have access to amazing jewels that we’re seeing in a different light e.g. the Lady Libertine and its raw emeralds.

You’ve been on several fronts at the same time. Which sector are you targeting ? Luxury “ concept ” watches or more affordable collections ?

The Peacock soon set the benchmark with its look inspired by the brand’s designs and an exclusive movement designed

by Agenhor (Jean-Marc Wiederrecht’s company). Then there was a limited fine jewellery series and the Visionnaire I men’s range designed with Renaud Papi. It’s still too soon to tell which the bestsellers are but for now our complications enable us to stand out from the crowd.

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Bovet 19Thirty

By Sharmila Bertin The Fleurier watchmaker based in Val-de-Travers at the top of Neuchâtel has unveiled a gold version of the collection launched in 2015.

1930s Europe and America was a golden age in several industries.

The interwar period was a time for post-war reconstruction and innovation despite the Wall Street Crash in 1929. The Roaring Twenties were in full swing in France and sparked a wealth of creativity and artistry. Transport, especially personal transport, underwent an unprecedented boom in the car and aviation sectors. Watchmaking changed too. Watches gradually moved from the pocket to the wrist; they got smaller, housed new complications and this primarily aesthetic modification is what the collection 19Thirty by Bovet is based on.

The Fleurier-based brand in the Neuchâtel canton brought out a steel watch collection last year. Now the range has been given a rose gold case and engine-turned dial to elevate its precious side.

The new 19Thirty comes in three dial colours (blue, black or brown) bearing an hour rim with a choice of three fonts

(Arabic, Roman or Chinese numerals) to perfectly match the rose gold glow. Two different sized engine-turned discs coated in colourful translucent enamel seem to softly clash. The biggest at 12 features the hours and minutes with two gold Foundationstyle hands and the smallest at 6 has the small seconds counter with a hand topped with a gold dot. The power reserve indicator lies at 3.

The 42mm rose gold case houses Bovet’s manual wind 15BM04 calibre that brings to life the functions and 7-day power reserve.

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Frédérique Constant Classics Automatic Heart Beat

By Sharmila Bertin Frédérique Constant has unveiled two new seriously classic pieces fuelled by a self-winding movement.

Notched case, grooved ball crown, engine-turned dial, black Roman numerals, “vintage” hands : the Plan-les-Ouates brand whisks us back in time with two new Classics Automatic Heart Beat models inspired by early 19th century design. Two key features snap us back into the present: the so-called “Heart Beat” display on the dial that often appears in Frédérique Constant watch collections and the cutting-edge movement you can glimpse through the back of both pieces.

The brand founded in 2004 has made the “Heart Beat” its trademark, a visual signature that enables the watch’s owner to gaze at the escapement’s endless performance like a beating heart. The Plan-les-Ouates watchmaker also designs and makes its own movements such as the self-winding FC312 calibre fuelling the Classics Automatic Heart Beat’s functions and 40-hour power reserve.

The 39mm case comes in steel or yellow gold-plated steel ; you can see the movement fuelling the hands on the dial through

the sapphire caseback. The shimmering silver dial has three different engine-turned designs. The hour rim near the chapter ring has a circular pattern whilst a pleated sunburst design radiates from the centre. The instantly recognisable pyramidshape Clous de Paris pattern sits comfortably between both.

Two black Breguet hands with openwork “pomme” tips track the hours and minutes in the centre of the dial. The goldbevelled “Heart Beat” takes pride of place at 12.

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Glashütte Original PanoMatic Luna

By Sharmila Bertin The Saxony brand has unveiled a new watch for ladies exclusively available in its stores.

The great silver ball that bathes the night sky in white light has inspired many a romantic poem such as the first line of the famous Nuit de printemps by French writer FrançoisRené de Chateaubriand (1768-1848), “Le ciel est pur, la lune est sans nuage: Déjà la nuit au calice des fleurs Verse la perle et l'ambre de ses pleurs ; Aucun zéphyr n'agite le feuillage.”* The majestic, poetic and softly blue and mother-of-pearl PanoMatic Luna is to the wrist what the moon is to the sky. The mother-of-pearl dial gives the watch a shimmering blue glow.

The white lacquer background plays on depth and enhances the mother-of-pearl shine. The hours and minutes tick by offcentre at 9 in a blue-rimmed display whose 9 markers are paved with 18 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.04 carat) whilst the seconds dance at 7 to give the moon pride of place. The silver disc in a starry sky glistens in a bevelled crescent moon at 2 and the large date (a signature feature in Glashütte Original watches) lies in a silver-rimmed oval at 4.

All the PanoMatic Luna functions and 42-hour power reserve are brought to life by the in-house self-winding 90-12 calibre.

64 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.95 carat) glitter on the 39.4mm steel case’s bezel whilst a single gem (0.10 carat) adorns the crown. * “The sky is clear, the moon is without a cloud: Night already pours the pearl and amber of its tears into the floral calyx; Not a breeze rustles through the foliage.”

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H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch S

By Sharmila Bertin The Neuhausen am Rheinfall-based watch brand has brought out an S version (as in Smart and Sexy) of its 100% Swiss watch.

H. Moser & Cie shook up the watchmaking world in January 2016 when it turned fashion on its head. The current market is flooded with smartwatches whose dials have been replaced by screens displaying countless apps so the brand brought out a fully mechanical version whose design is inspired by connected timepieces but it only displays the essential : time.

The 50 limited edition models of the famous Swiss Alp Watch sold out as soon as the news came out.

It’s late summer and H. Moser & Cie is repeating history with a new version of the watch in its collection : Swiss Alp Watch S. The good news is it’s not a limited edition.

Like its forebear, the Swiss Alp Watch S has a white gold rectangular 38.2x44mm case with a screwdown crown. The sapphire crystal back gives you a glimpse of the mechanical manual wind movement by H. Moser & Cie : the HMC 324 calibre fuels the time functions and 4-day power reserve.

The dial is coated in smoky midnight blue (the Neuhausen am Rheinfall brand’s signature) with a soft sunburst design bearing a silver hour rim. Applied time markers are tracked by metallic leaf-shape hour and minute hands. The seconds are off-centre at 6 in a blue counter enclosed in a graduated ring.

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Hysek

IO 42mm Power Reserve

By Sharmila Bertin After getting people used to its bold, unique and almost conceptual timepieces, the brand based in the Vaud canton is now putting its signature design onto a timeless model.

Since its foundation in 1997, Hysek has literally become synonymous with racy, statement watches that are both successful in design and technique. Some models could even be classed as watchmaking UFOs given how revolutionary and different they are to regular pieces from more mainstream brands.

However, Hysek hasn’t turned its back on so-called classic watches ; it has put its own stamp on them with its very own signature twist. The IO collection features models with simple shapes that use rather traditional complications such as the date display, moon phase, chronograph and power reserve indicator as in the new IO 42mm Power Reserve.

The round 42mm case is topped by a fitted bezel that reveals four cavities; curvy lugs cling to the sides with the three signature Hysek notches. The steel case houses a self-winding mechanical movement that fuels the functions

(hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve indicator) and provides a 42-hour power reserve.

The blue dial’s hour rim has edgy metallic horseshoe markers and Arabic numerals (1, 5, 7 and 11 that you regularly see on Hysek dials) rimmed with a dash of cobalt. The minutes appear on the chapter ring. Two baton-shape hands with bluerimmed diamond-tips track the hours and minutes whilst a slim central seconds hand in the same colour glides above. A large arrow carved like flint at 6 in a silver semi-circle tells the IO 42mm Power Reserve’s owner how much power is left by pointing to F (full) or E (empty) if the watch needs a quick energy boost.

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MB&F

HM8 Can-Am

By Sharmila Bertin The latest architectural watch concept from the Horological Machine collection brings the Can-Am race series back to life Once again, Maximilian Büsser’s boundless creativity has delved into the young Genevan brand founder’s childhood memories. Cars and robots, robots and cars: MB&F’s current success is rooted in the 70s when car manufacturers still made beautiful motors and cartoons featured real heroes that made a mark on a whole generation and went onto inspire Maximilian Büsser. Cars and robots, robots and cars : two design influences that appear in most machines made in MB&F including the new HM8 Can-Am. At first glance, this 3D sculpture grabs your attention with its curvy trapezium shape topped by a pair of lateral bars showcasing the famous battle-axe rotor in blue gold. Suddenly everything makes sense, it all becomes clear. The structure with two slightly arched tubes in grade 5 titanium is based on the security “cages” fitted on racing cars in the Canadian American (“Can-Am”) Challenge Cup (a race that ran from 1966 to 1987) to protect the driver and engine. We all know

the battle-axe rotor is a nod to Grendizer, the Japanese cartoon hero from the 70s who Maximilian Büsser was a fan of.

The aerodynamic 49x51.5mm case is 19mm deep and comes in two versions : titanium and white gold or titanium and rose gold. The movement (a self-winding calibre on a GirardPerregaux base pimped up by MB&F) lies under a transparent sapphire glass bonnet. Aside from the famous rotor, you can also see the movement engraved with circles and some of the disc for the hours and minutes.

The jumping hours and minutes are displayed by a complex system of sapphire prisms that project the numerals and enlarge them by 20%.

The HM8 Can-Am hugs the wrist with a wide navy or chocolate brown alligator strap with a deployment clasp.

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Urwerk

EMC Time Hunter X-Ray

By Sharmila Bertin Three years after the launch of the EMC concept, the young watch brand has unveiled a new version of its mechanical watch armed with an electronic module.

It may be called “TimeHunter” but it has a deeper meaning; this watch isn’t about capturing time but rather taming it to make it more efficient.

Urwerk has made its mark on the watchmaking scene since launching in 1997 and unveiled a new concept called EMC TimeHunter in 2013. The idea is fitting a mechanical watch with an electronic module to assess chronometric performance. Basically, the module is fuelled by manual winding and uses symbols tracked by a green or red hand and LED light to display the watch’s accuracy and amplitude.

It isn’t said enough but movements are regularly affected by the different ways the wearer uses the watch during the day (hobbies, downtime, sport) and changes in temperature (cold, dry, warm, damp, hot) especially if they happen suddenly.

The performance indicator lies in a red counter at 11 on the new EMC TimeHunter X-Ray’s openwork dial. The bright

colour stands out from the other displays. The hours and minutes are slightly off-centre to the left, the seconds tick by at 2 and the power reserve indicator stands at 7.

The different functions and 80-hour power reserve are fuelled by the in-house manual wind UR-EMC2 calibre fitted with a double barrel. The chunky black-PVD coated titanium and steel case is 43mm wide, 51mm long and 15.8mm thick.

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Zenith

El Primero 36,000 VpH

By Sharmila Bertin The Le Locle brand has reworked the El Primero Lightweight for the iconic El Primero 36,000 VpH. Barely 2 years have passed since Zenith unveiled a watch designed using ultra-light hi-tech materials in the first half of 2014: the limited edition El Primero Lightweight (25 available). Not only is it featherweight (25% lighter than the classic model) but the watch also has a stunning black checkerboard on the ceramicised carbon and aluminium case with an openwork dial reminiscent of stylised metal lace featuring El Primero’s signature counters.

The star-logo brand has given this fabulous piece an update, in terms of design and mechanism at least. Presenting the El Primero 36,000 VpH, a characterful and relatively affordable watch with a chronograph measuring 1/10 th of a second.

The 45mm steel case houses a legendary movement that you can see through the sapphire crystal back: the self-winding El Primero 400B calibre. It fuels the power reserve that lasts over 50 hours as well as the time, chronograph and date functions.

The carefully carved dial is rimmed by a gunmetal chapter ring bearing the tachymeter scale. It features the three famous overlapping counters in different colours. The silvery small seconds lies at 9 and the petrol blue minute counter at 3 stands next to the anthracite hour counter at 6. The date display has openwork numerals on a red background at 6. Three hands appear in the centre of the contemporary metallic embroidery : luminescent rhodium-plated hours and minutes and the scarlet-coated chronograph seconds hand with an openwork star-shape counterweight.

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GE E K

Smartwatches for kids : watches or monitors for parents ?

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By Inès Aloui

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rands are increasingly jumping on the bandwagon to create smartwatches for our little cherubs. From GPS to “emergency calls”, the possibilities are endless. Is this a way to get children into watches or to keep them under constant control ?

The Gartner Institute found that over 300 million smartwatches were sold worldwide in 2015. The figure should double in the next two years. The idea is to reach as many people as possible and cover every need. Children want easy-to-use smartwatches with buttons and key apps. Adults constantly need to know where their little one is, save the way home on their watch or be able to call them anytime. Here’s a shortlist of smartwatches for kids by The Watches Magazine.

Linkoo: reassure parents Linkoo’s waterproof smartwatch is designed for 6-12 year olds and comes in five colours with custom shells. The idea is to reassure worried parents. Children have three pre-saved numbers in their watch and parents can get in touch with

them anytime. They can also track their every move using the GPS with map or satellite views accurate to 5m. The watch also texts parents when children arrive or leave school for example. Everything you need to keep track of your little pumpkin! With a 10-hour battery life and 4-day standby, Linkoo provides a monthly contract for 8 EUR a month with unlimited calls and texts. From 129 EUR. The E-ZY by Haier: a watch to “help” Chinese brand Haier makes products that put the “fun” into “functional” with two smartwatch models: the E-ZY Watch for 2-8 year olds and the E-ZY Watch Senior. Their main aim is to communicate so the E-ZY has an integrated micro SIM card. A red button on the side enables you to make repeat emergency calls to three pre-saved numbers.

If nobody answers, a concierge service (payable) takes over and helps the watch wearer. The most anxious parents can also listen to what’s happening around the child wearing the watch through the microphone. The children’s model costs 99 EUR.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

Doki Watch: foresee family needs The Doki Watch is funded by Kickstarter and seems to be the most advanced children’s watch. It is specially designed for 6-12 year olds with video and voice calls, texts and lots of apps. Like its fellow watches, it has a GPS to track children in real time, send alerts to parents when they arrive or leave a specific place and a red SOS button. It has a fitness tracking app to encourage kids to play sport and a “Dokipet” which appears on the screen every time the child’s moving. The brand website states the RRP is $199.

Octopus: a watch takeover JOY has designed the Octopus smartwatch for little ones aged 3 to 8. Parents set the watch that tells children what tasks to complete by what time. No more arguing about homework!

The watch displays both the time and an image for the task to complete so kids associate an activity with a set time. It helps them get into a good routine. The parent gets a notification on their mobile to say when the child has completed the task.

Pre-order on the brand’s website from November. From 52 EUR. Amby Gear: the fun-filled smartwatch The entertaining Amby Gear is made by Ambit Networks for 3-11 year olds. It encourages little ones to play and reassures parents. It is packed with educational content and games for each age group. Amby Gear prides itself on being educational and teaching values such as organisation, trust and loyalty.

Like most smartwatches, it has a GPS to track your prodigy but what’s different is it can also track parents. The battery lasts up to 7 days on standby and is available to pre-order on the brand’s website. From 115 EUR.

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

79

OpiniOn

Smiley icon, crying icon

By Serge Panczuk

T

80

he watch industry adores sumptuous and elaborate terms. “Icon” often crops up in the hierarchy of “ words that work ”. No brand can exist without at least one icon nowadays. Etymologically speaking, an icon is a religious image to symbolise the gods or give the home a bit of divine magic. For once, the term suits brands that try to stand out from the crowd : a magical, almost divine watch that fills the soul with joy and, most importantly, makes lots of profit.

We all know which pieces are in this category and are now the (old) nobility of watchmaking realms. We cherish them, fawn over them, love them. Like wagyu beef, these watches deserve respect and brands deny them nothing.

First and foremost, the icon epitomises safety to clients. You can’t go wrong with an icon because it’s an icon. It’s alluring, reassuring and long-lasting. This element is vital as the thing about icons is they don’t change. They go through the years without changing and are what many people look for in a watch: a past, a legacy, a sign.

All brands seek their icon but few find it. Just like the blockbuster, the icon is facetious and doesn’t like to show itself too often. It’s also hard to describe. To quote a Harvard researcher discussing business culture, you could say that : “ the icon is like pornography. It’s hard to describe but you know what it is when you see it ”. Every brand would jump on it if there was a recipe for making an icon. But there isn’t one.

The icon is also a creation from the mind, a fantasy and a desire. It’s not a product ; it’s an urban legend. It transcends borders, times and business cycles. It survives everything and helps brands survive. Its presence reassures CEOs and marketers. You can plan its sales, forecast its margins or use it as a shield or slingshot based on the situation in the markets.

During a crisis (like now), the icon is a protector. You shelter behind it and since leather is thick-skinned, it takes the blows but carries on generating value. During periods of growth or takeover, it acts as a launch pad using its stability to support the development of new products and reduce risk. The icon is life insurance …

But be warned, beneath its divine aura and sense of “ look but don’t touch ”, the icon is a killer. Its presence suffocates brands, kills creativity and causes laziness. With an ally like this, why bother taking risks, designing or pushing boundaries. Just swap a few things, add a few more and you’ve given the icon a new lease of life. The icon is the Gaston Lagaffe of the industry ; it’s part of the furniture, doesn’t do much and gets away with murder. At worst, it drags the brand down making it a slave to its own creation. It’s a watchmaking reverse takeover so, in financial jargon, the small company eats the big one in a merger or takeover ; the purchase eats

the purchaser. In this case it’s the creation that devours the creator like Frankenstein’s monster.

Just wander down the SIHH and BaselWorld corridors and you’ll get a sense of the Frankenstein syndrome. Some brands relaunch their icons every year with the same old fallbacks. A little bigger, a little smaller. A different font, a dash of colour and it’s sorted for a year ! The icon gets tired with coming back all the time. It’s too present, too “ easy ”. It causes its own downfall as its trivialisation kills emotion and causes the creation of parallel markets fuelling the counterfeit market.

Luxury may often be described as exceptional but the icon is becoming common. Too much of a good thing ...

To sum up, the icon is the grasshopper’s victory over the ant, a snub to the moral that work pays off! It is to watchmaking what the investor is to the economy.

Let’s end on a high though. The icon is still a doorway for countless watch enthusiasts to uncover their passion, the icon deserves our gratitude and our respect. As long as it doesn’t turn into complacency. It’s our duty as enthusiasts …

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE

WINTER 2016

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