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Inclusive to everyone, exclusive to the finest watches ISSUE NO. 03 | MARCH 2021
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all it like it is, watches with integrated bracelets are continuing to have their moment in the spotlight over the last few years, primarily fueled by the massive demand for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. We’re seeing more entrants in the category than ever, ranging from high-level competitors to entry level also-rans, but it’s worth noting that this trend is anything but new. The ‘60s and ‘70s were filled with this kind of design work, which slowly began dwindling as the Quartz Crisis reared its ugly head, and the need to cut manufacturing costs began to strangle brands across the industry. With the industry the way it is today, and the collecting community having no problem parting with cash so long as they see tangible value in quality and finishing, it’s a logical progression to see the trend return to the market. It’s hard to take on this category without a mention of Gérald Genta, but it’s with specific reason that we’re not going to spend much time on the famed designer. While he is responsible for the creation of some of the most popular integrated bracelet designs, he did not invent the style. Integrated bracelet Omega Constellation models came before the Royal Oak, and
prior to that there were ample examples of watches (especially in the women’s watch category) where bracelets melded seamlessly into cases in a manner that was inseparable. While the man did fuel the boom of the category, it is not his to own, and to say all integrated bracelet watches are of “Genta influence” is a frustrating misnomer at best. So, by definition, what is an integrated bracelet? Unlike other categories in watchmaking, this one is pretty cut-and-dried. An integrated bracelet on a watch is one that meshes into the watch case in a way that defies the traditional lugs and strap design seen across the industry. This can mean the use of central lugs, or a bracelet that flares out past the lugs, or a bracelet that attaches to the case via a center lug rather than an end link. In many respects, it falls under the umbrella of “you know it when you see it,” but you can also look at a watch with an integrated bracelet as one whose bracelet or strap you won’t be able to easily swap out to something else on a whim. Now that we’ve covered the backbone of what we’re looking at, let’s have a closer look at some of the category’s leading offerings. CONTINUE READING ON PAGE 05
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IN CONVERSATION With the creative force behind Black Badger, James Thompson