SUMMER 2014 THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM
Dare to dress Tone it down or turn it up!
Learn slick new moves WITH
4 students behind the buzzword
Iâ€™m on The List: NYFW changes in review
Q&A with VANESSA bayer!
MAX WANG Editor-in-Chief
ASHLEY LEUNG, DANIELLA SAKHAI Creative Directors
ELONIA MCHENRY Editor-at-Large
Photography Director Operations Coordinator
Director of Sponsorship
FASHION Style Director BREE JACKSON Men’s Style Director ARJAN SINGH Beauty Director CAROLINA BELTRAN Stylists JOSEFINA BRAUNING, JESSIE CHOI, MICHAEL ZUFU HUANG, MICHAEL KIGAWA, BERNICE KONG, MAX KURUCAR, ANDREINA VAN MAANEN, ALISON MILLER, VASILIKI PAPANIKOLOPOULOS, MARIANA PAVIA, ROBYN RAPAPORT, LINDY SMITH, KATIE WU, JULIA ZHU Beauty Stylists JOYCE HU, LAURA SACHSE, MOLLY WANG On-Set Coordinator ROLANDA EVELYN Concept Manager ELIZABETH ELDER
FEATURES Fashion Editor AUGUSTA GREENBAUM Features Editor ANDIE DAVIDSON Copy Editors LAURI BONACORSI, ALISON FREUDMAN Research Editors CATHERINE DING, OLIVIA STEARN Contributing Writers Jessie choi, andie Davidson, Augusta Greenbaum, Tina Hsu, Erich Kessel, Minji kwak, Nicole Malick, Madeline McCallum, emily lipson, Laura Petro, Robyn Rapaport, Mary Alice Solmssen, EMILY ULRICH, Julia Vitale, Jessi yackey
PHOTOGRAPHY Photographers Bonnie Arbittier, Vidush Mahansaria, Cody Min, Sara-Paige Silvestro, CHIDERA UFONDU
ART AND DESIGN Assistant Art Director ANDREA SHEN Layout Team Alexandra Benya, Stephanie Businelli, Carolina English, Anushree Gupta, Lisa Hoong, Zahra Husain, Micah Kaats, Angela Lee, Mariana Pavia, Isabella Rahm, Matt Williams, Katie Wu, Marilyn Yang
MARKETING Social Media Representatives ANTONIA GREEN, ALLISON RUBEN, ALICE SHEN, GABRIELLA ZACARIAS Events Coordinators Caroline Batoff, Emilie Bishop, Lindsey Gaon, Safia Sexton, Maria Alonso Torras, Emily Ulrich Market Research Coordinator ALEXANDRA BENYA Design Chair SUBI QIAN Alumni Relations Chair BRIANNE POLITO Alumni Relations Coordinator caroline calle
MANAGEMENT Assistant Operations Coordinator CATHERINE DING Internal Affairs Coordinator STEVIE KLEIN Local Sponsorship Coordinators ALLIE DRABINSKY, VIVIAN VO Professional Apparel Coordinators ANUSHA CHEMICALA, MAHA SUBRAMANIAM Bookings and Model Coordinator EUGENIE GRUMAN Penn Fashion Collective Executive Board Members Lynn Nguyen, ELIZABETH ELDER, Vinita Saggurti, Joey Chu, Nico Gomez, Leah Alminana, Grace Guan, Lisa Marsova
THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM Editor-in-Chief MAX WANG Editorial Director ALICIA CHON Managing Editor ERICH KESSEL Website Director NEERA THAVORNVANIT Operations Coordinator MADHAVI MURALIDHARAN Senior Fashion Editors Rolanda Evelyn, Laura Petro Senior Culture Editor JESSI YACKEY Senior Health & Beauty Editors Tina Hsu, Erica Polle Junior Fashion Editors Sophie Fritz, Augusta Greenbaum, MARLENA HANNA, Madeline McCallum, Catherine Milanoski, EGE OZYEGIN, Maya Rivera, Allison Ruben, JULIE SHANUS, Emily Ulrich, Jessi Yackey Junior Men’s Fashion Editor ALLISON RUBEN Junior Culture Editors MEGAN GROSS, MARILENA ZEPRUN, LAURA ZHANG Junior Health & Beauty Editors STEPHANIE FAGBEMI, LAURA GARCIA-CID, ELLIS KIM, CAROLINE LEVY, Victoria Martin, ERICA POLLE, Jessica Sung Website Stylists REBECCA AIELLO, MINJI KWAK, EMILY LIPSON Blog Director ALEX Tritsch Assistant Blog Director CODY MIN Blog Photographers Taylor Brown, sophie fritz, Sarah Ku, Katherine Littel, Michelle Liu, Alison Miller, meghan miller, Andreina Van Maanen, allison ruben, ryann shaffer UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA’S PREMIER FASHION MAGAZINE • VOLUME VIII • ISSUE I • APRIL 2014 The WALK was founded in 2006 as a student initiative and continues to be a student fueled organization. TheWALKmagazine.com was launched in 2010 as a sister to the print edition. The WALK aims to satisfy our community’s widely-demanded fashion fix year-round. Stories edited by the editorial staff will carry bylines of the original author. Please report corrections to email@example.com. We will post corrections on our website. This publication was typeset using GeosansLight and Bebas for headlines, Justus Italic for subtitles and captions and Adobe Garamond Pro for body text. Page layout was created using Adobe InDesign. Original images were taken with DSLR cameras and adjusted using Adobe Photoshop. The WALK was printed in Sappi Flo 70-pound gloss text paper (FSC and 10% recycled) using sheet-fed offset presses. The binding is saddle-stitched. Printed by Garrison Printing Company, Inc., Pennsauken, NJ. To get involved or learn about advertising and partnership opportunities, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
summer 2014 ARTS & STYLE
Penn students spill about their sweet summer styles.
Four Penn entrepreneurs chat about school, staying comfortable and starting a company.
From Bloomers to SNL with Vanessa Bayer
Funny Girl: Vanessa Bayer C’04 talks life, laughs and lattes.
A Step in the Right Direction
CityStep teaches us how to channel skills and self-expression into doing good for the community.
trend watch: fashion We’ve got the scoop on this season’s trends whether your motto is “less is more” or “go big or go home!”
trend watch: beauty Finish off your look with these fresh twists on beauty basics.
five changes in menswear
Bold alterations are underway in the world of men’s fashion.
How will IMG’s new guest list policies at NY Fashion Week affect the way that we interact with fashion?
KitSch KitSch Hurray
Forget “pop of color” — this summer dare to use the whole rainbow! Kick your summer into high gear with bright colors and wild prints.
TRESS TO IMPRESS
A closer look at the fashion industry’s questionable labor practices.
Amp up your tired tresses with this season’s bright colors and sleek styles.
The WALK is in your CLOSET The WALK takes an intimate look inside the closets of two stylish Penn students.
From A.M . to P.M. We take the test to see if transitioning a statement piece from day to night can really be that seamless.
POPPIN' TAGS 10 tricks of the trade that will help you score the vintage finds of a lifetime!
High Class Rule the school with a bad brand of style that is undeniably cool.
No Place Like NoLibs Venture north to Philly’s funkiest new hotspot: Northern Liberties.
Posh Party Pointers Glam up your next birthday bash with these fun and simple tricks.
The WALK shines the spotlight on our stylish seniors and all the wonderful work they’ve done over the past four years.
LAYOUT CREDITS Cover — Micah Kaats ’14, Max Wang ‘15 • Behind the Scenes — Stephanie Businelli ‘16 • Masthead — Monika Haebich ‘15 • Cover Story — Max Wang ‘15 • Letter from the Editor — Monika Haebich ‘15 Penn Speaks — Carolina English ‘16 • Entre(penn)eurs — Anushree Gupta ’17 • From Bloomers to SNL with Vanessa Bayer — Stephanie Businelli ’16 • A Step in the Right Direction — Alexandra Benya ’16 Trend Watch: Fashion — Lisa Hoong ’17 • Trend Watch: Beauty / Five Changes in Menswear — Isabella Rahm ’17 • Invite Only — Matt Williams ’14 Labor Intensive — Julia Palecki ’17 • Kitsch Kitsch Hurray! — Katie Wu ‘17 • Tress to Impress — Stephanie Businelli ’16 • The WALK is in Your Closet — Monika Haebich ’15 From A.M. to P.M. — Marilyn Yang ’17 • Poppin’ Tags — Andrea Shen ’16 • High Class — Mariana Pavia ’17 • No Place Like NoLibs — Carolina English ’16, Katie Wu ‘17 Posh Party Pointers — Angela Lee ’16 • Senior Spotlight — Marilyn Yang ’17 Edited by Monika Haebich ’15, Andrea Shen ‘16, Max Wang ‘15
cover look: in therough Raw gemstones and silver sunbursts glitter against Simone’s radiant skin. In the light of day, let the beauty of your unhewn edges show. Wear your confidence like liquid ivory and show the world your true value.
Directed by Ashley Leung ’16, Daniella Sakhai ’15, Bree Jackson ’15 and Dyana So ’16 Photographed by Max Wang ’15 Modeled by Simone Során ’14 Styled by Josefina Brauning ’17 BEAUTY by Daniella Sakhai ’15
On Simone Során: Metallic scarf, $98.50, at Club Monaco. Black pants, Lazytwins, $80, at Aoki. Earrings and ring, VICXX Designs, stylist’s own.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Photographed by Dyana So C’16.
“I’m just not really a fashion person,” is often the response that I get when I tell new acquaintances about The WALK. There seems to be the impression that being a “fashion person” is like being part of some exclusive club or having a Pokémon type — that you’re either born with it or you’re not, and there’s simply no changing it. While it is true that The Powers That Be of the fashion industry love to draw lines between people and things, declaring some “It Girls” and others “have-nots” and distinguishing luxury brands from fastfashion retailers, in this issue, The WALK explores what it means to step across those lines. We seek to marvel at the intersection of the elite and the everyday and to break down the boundaries between these two camps. In “Invite Only,” we question the recent changes to New York Fashion Week that have led to more exclusive guest lists and smaller runway show viewings. In “Labor Intensive” we ask you to consider the hands that put together your new pair of shoes or date night dress. For those who still don’t see themselves as fashionably inclined, the fact is that fashion should follow function. Just ask members of CityStep, who use dance as a means of helping local Philly kids discover self-expression, all while looking and feeling great. The WALK also took some time to talk to a handful of impressive Penn student entrepreneurs about their innovations. We
found out that the resounding opinion is that our sartorial choices (whether that be throwing on a hoodie or grabbing a handbag) are undeniably tied to our academic, professional and personal pursuits. And if you want to be more of a fashion type, take a page from our spread “High Class,” and break away from the norm by rocking your suits in class (even outside of OCR). Or, don’t! Men, take note: trends in menswear suggest a shift away from the classic suit, so you don’t have to dress up to dress well. Maybe you’ll find that perfect piece on a vintage shopping adventure or figure out how to take that statement piece you already have from day to night — whichever you choose, “Poppin’ Tags” and “From A.M. to P.M.” will show you how. The grass is always greener on the other side, but regardless of whether you’re a fashionable freshman or the charmingly quirky Vanessa Bayer C’04, we invite you to hop on over the fence. Fashion should be an open invite kind of event — spread the news, stop by whenever and stay as long as you’d like!
Max Wang, Editor-in-Chief
Join THE COLLECTIVE, Penn's first and only fashion society The Collective is composed of Dzine2Show and The WALK. Our mission is to provide resources and opportunities for University of Pennsylvania students who are interested in: fashion design, fashion show production & direction, fashion journalism & photography and the fashion & retail industries. JOIN OUR LISTSERV tinyurl.com/ThePennFashionCollective Follow us on Twitter @ThePFCollective NEED MORE INFO? Reach out to us at email@example.com
SEEN ON THE WALK
BY JULIA VITALE
With spring here and summer quickly approaching, The WALK wants to know what you’re most excited about wearing during the warmer months. We teamed up with Seen on the Walk to hear what fashion statements our trendiest peers have in store for the long-awaited summer season. Despite the heat and humidity, these students dress to impress, providing expert advice on how to stay cool and look stylish as furry coats are swapped for mini shorts and sunglasses. Bend traditional fashion boundaries and personalize these students’ suggestions to create new, fun and absolutely stunning summer looks!
What can’t you live without during the warmer months? “High-waisted vintage Levi’s shorts” - Robyn Rapaport, C’15
What do you plan on stunning your friends with this summer? “Palazzo pants” - Antoinette Zoumanigui, C’17
What are Your summer essentials? “Wing-tipped shoes and jean shorts” - Tory Stires, C’14
THE WALK / SUMMER 2014
What’s your favorite piece of summer clothing? “Fratty tanks” - Tate Gale, C’17
What’s your go-to summer outfit?
What would you wear to an outdoor party?
“Maxi dress and summer scarf” - Morgan Williams, C’14
“Play suit and sandals” - Eliora Henzler, C’17
How would you dress for an internship without feeling stuffy? “Unbuttoned cardigan with an airy, but conservative, tank underneath” - Jessica King, C’15
What do you look forward to wearing this season? “Salmon shorts” - David Ho, C’15
What do you most look forward to wearing during summer? “Snapbacks” - Lawrence Yen, C&W’14
All images photographed by Sarah Ku N’16.
For students at Penn, starting a business is not limited to life after college. Many students have created their own start-up, app, or company as part of a class assignment or on the side even while taking a full load. The WALK sat down with a few of these go-getters to learn a bit more about their start-ups and how they stay fashionable while running a business. Turns out that they are, in fact, human, just like the rest of us. BY MADELINE MCCALLUM
(Left) Julie Ulrich C’14 of ALICE. (Right) Maxine Winston W’14 of GrouPenn.
ollege senior Julie Ulrich is one of the creators of ALICE, an app that allows hoteliers to provide mobile services to their guests. ALICE stands for “A Life-Improving Customer Experience,” and was named after Alice from “The Brady Bunch.” Featuring access to all the amenities and services a hotel has to offer, the app is essentially “your hotel in the palm of your hands.” “Our goal is to increase engagement and interaction between the guests and the hotel staff and to make [the guests’] stay more meaningful,” Ulrich says. ALICE makes all hotel services available at the swipe of your thumb and allows hotel employees to better serve guests. ALICE is “very much a Penn team,” consisting of two 2012 Penn graduates, a 2003 alum and Ulrich, the only founding member still at Penn. The idea came about when two of the cofounders went on a trip through Asia after graduation. During those two weeks, they “recognized a lot of inefficiency in the travel industry,” Ulrich explains, especially in the check-in process, and they came back to a group “passionate about the technology industry.” Thus, ALICE was born. Fashion in the start-up industry is very different from that of your typical business situation — Ulrich admits that for the start-up world, “business casual” would “honestly be pajamas.” In more professional settings, she says that a black blazer is key, along with a pair of low black booties. Ulrich also notes that it’s hard to keep one’s personal style while trying to look professional.
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Maxine Winston, a senior in Wharton and a founder of GrouPenn, believes that “it’s really easy to stay true to yourself while dressing for a professional setting.” Winston believes that a little pop of color can take you a long way and is “all about the shift dress” as a perfect piece to transition from day to night. With a light sweater or blazer, a shift dress works great in professional settings. One article of clothing that she could not live without is “probably ballet flats.” Winston’s website, GrouPenn, sought to “get groups of Penn students together” and get them off campus by matching up groups of people based on common interests and characteristics. The idea originated in her entrepreneurship class at Penn; Winston, along with four other students, created the site based on “needs that [their] friends had,” which included continuing the friend-making process past freshmen year and getting out of the pervasive “Penn bubble.” Unfortunately, GrouPenn is no longer active and its founders are moving on to newer projects. While running a startup may not always be as glamorous as it sounds, it is always thrilling. Winston says, “The challenge is part of the beauty of the undertaking. My team and I learned an incredible amount through both our successes and our failures in running GrouPenn, which will undoubtedly help us as we continue on in our entrepreneurial careers.” “I think one of the biggest things we learned from our GrouPenn experience is the value of thorough and detailed planning, which is what my teammates and I are focusing on as we develop new business plans.”
College freshman Benton Turner founded the website Escalating Registers with Jonathan Sun after the two met at a summer writing class at Columbia University. The site started as a place where students could publish their own writing. “After a few years, we decided to take a more technical approach to it,” Turner says. Now they work with Diana Liao, a coder at Princeton, in order to introduce more technology to the site and build a larger community. The team is currently working on turning Escalating Registers into an innovative blogging platform called Escalate. The site aims to promote student writing while also democratizing it and representing various communities. The site fosters a return to long-form writing, focusing mainly on personal essays. “The point of Escalate is writing,” Turner stresses. “That’s the primary focus.” Turner agrees that there is “often a conflict between trying to look professional while simultaneously trying to represent yourself through fashion.” However, he doesn’t seem to have much trouble expressing his style, citing a velvet blazer from Uniqlo as his favorite go-to piece. “I come up with every excuse to wear it,” he says. Turner stresses the importance of making sure that you’re wellkept. He says that “at the end of the day, it doesn’t matter what you wear, it matters more the kind of environment you create.” A specific dress code isn’t necessary for creating a good workspace.
Yash Kothari, cofounder of Prayas Analytics alongside Pranshu Maheshwari, is a junior in Wharton studying management, operations management and marketing. According to Kothari, Prayas Analytics is based on the “notion of quantifying the offline world.” With the information the software collects, it can monitor customers’ purchasing behavior in a method similar to the one used by online retailers. “Right now, e-commerce is crushing offline retail,” Kothari says. One of his goals is to “give offline retailers information so they can compete effectively.” “We believe that data is going to enable us to create efficiency in the world.” Kothari says, adding that through Prayas Analytics, “we can actually quantify human interactions.” In terms of staying fashionable while running a business, Kothari admits that he doesn’t have a very dominant personal fashion style. “I see myself more as adapting to fashion trends,” he says. He loves how Steve Jobs revolutionized black turtlenecks — by “routinizing [his] daily decisions…he never had to worry about what he wore, yet he was able to create an identity for himself.” While black turtlenecks may not be Kothari’s thing, hoodies definitely are. He agrees that the start-up world is very casual, admitting he wore more T-shirts during his internship than he ever wore at his time at Penn. “In the start-up world, everything is a transition piece,” he says.
Each of these Penn entrepreneurs may have his or her own unique approach to the start-up world, but they clearly share the know-how of formulating an idea and executing it. Luckily, they’re happy to spread their wisdom. Ulrich advises other students who are considering starting their own company to “go for it while you’re at Penn.” She notes that “being a student provides a lot of opportunities” — she herself has had the fortune of partnering with organizations in Wharton to further her mission with ALICE. Kothari offers that “your idea is nothing and execution is everything.” It’s all about sharing your idea. He and Maheshwari reached out to around 200 Wharton alumni when they were creating Prayas Analytics. “At the end of the day, that’s what differentiates a good idea from a real start-up,” he says. Winston agrees, noting that the best advice she has ever received is through conversations with friends. “Throw your ideas at all different types of people,” she advises. Turner recommends starting by researching what’s going on — “our lives are becoming more consumed by tech, I think in a good way,” he says. He encourages students to think about creative ways to build an idea with friends and to understand that “even the most successful people aren’t any smarter than you.” We’re all Penn students, and I’m sure we’re all bursting with creative ideas. These four students show just how far you can go when you put yourself out there and take action. As Ulrich points out, “If worst comes to worst, it’s just a great learning experience.”
(Left) Benton Turner C’17 of Escalating Registers. (Right) Yash Kothari W’15 of Prayas Analytics.
Images photographed by Vidush Mahansaria C&W’16 and Cody Min C’17.
FROM BLOOMERS TO SNL
WITH VANESSA BAYER Vanessa Bayer C’04 tells us about how her time at Penn jump-started her penchant for performance. anessa Bayer was leaving a yoga class when she got a phone call that would change her life and propel her career into the stratosphere. “I was just so calm,” Bayer recalls — but not for long. Her Zen was shattered when she realized the voice on the other end of the call was “Saturday Night Live’s” producers offering her a spot as a cast member on the show. Just like that, Bayer was part of the exclusive crowd of comedy royalty whose alumni include the likes of Jimmy Fallon, Will Ferrell and Tina Fey. Needless to say, Bayer took the job, and since then she has become a household name in comedy, playing roles from Jacob the Bar Mitzvah Boy to Miley Cyrus and beyond. While Bayer’s near four years on “SNL” have been the experience of a lifetime, the road to her dream job was a whirlwind. Many might imagine that the few who land a role on “SNL” have been pining for it since birth. That wasn’t the case for Bayer, however. “I think I always really loved comedy and it was always sort of a dream,” Bayer explains. “But I don’t think I really realized I wanted to go into comedy — as a career, you know — until I was at Penn with Bloomers.” Bloomers, Penn’s all-female musical sketch comedy group, was a huge part of Bayer’s Penn experience. She recalls with a laugh, “It was interesting, because if you go to Penn, you know, you took school really seriously, which I did. But by my sophomore or junior year, I was definitely giving Bloomers at least equal or more time as I was giving my schoolwork.” That’s not to say that Bayer wasn’t studious while she was at Penn. In fact, the comedian reflects that she was at times a bit too studious. “I think I would tell my college self to maybe chill out a little bit. Especially my first couple of years before I really got into Bloomers, people would ask me to hang out on, say, a Saturday, and if I had an exam on Monday, I would say no and just study all weekend. I think there is a balance, and you have to give yourself those breaks,” Bayer explains. “Oh, I think I would also tell myself to chill out on those lattes in Williams Café…” she adds with a laugh. “Yeah, I would definitely tell myself to chill out on those. They were just so easily accessible!” Although Bayer believes in the value of those breaks, time hasn’t given her many in her post-college life. After graduating from Penn in 2004, Bayer moved to Chicago, where she worked a day job and took night classes at iO, The Second City and other comedy clubs. Little by little, she started getting hired to do stand-up at Zanies, The Annoyance and iO — all notable Chicago comedy clubs. Eventually, The Second City hired her to work on a cruise ship, and when she returned she stopped
By Laura Petro
working her day job and made comedy a full-time career. After doing a Chicago showcase for “SNL,” she was hired as a cast member that same month — the rest is history. Throughout Bayer’s comedic ventures, her parents have always been very supportive. Even though she knows they were probably a bit concerned that she wasn’t moving to New York, where she actually had some connections (Bayer interned at Conan during her time at Penn and took classes at Gotham Comedy Club and UCB), her family tried not to show those worries, “because I think I would have freaked out,” Bayer explains. And in an industry like comedy, there is no time to be freaked out. Bayer explains that with comedy, the auditions you get sent on can be quite interesting — and at times a little insulting. “Once I was auditioning to be in a photo or something, and they said they needed me to look schizophrenic — like through my facial expressions. I think it’s the curly red hair, you know, I always get asked stuff like this…” she trails off with a laugh. But the quirky business of comedy certainly has its perks. “The jackets I would wear for Miley would always be super expensive, and the Lady Gaga dresses are amazing. Sometimes, I get away with wearing the outfits home,” Bayer confides. Whether facing weird auditions or amazing costumes, Bayer never stops. In addition to “SNL”, she stars in a YouTube series called “Sound Advice,” written with her brother, who is a music writer. The series stars Bayer as Janessa Slater, a “media coach” who gives terrible advice to featured bands like fun. and The Wanted. “When my brother and I are together, we have a really stupid sense of humor — we thought, wouldn’t it be fun to give bands condescending notes?” Bayer explains. “You know, people say that musicians want to be comedians — I know that comedians definitely think musicians are the coolest people in the world, so it’s really fun.” Fun is one of the things that Vanessa Bayer cherishes most about her job. “It’s a lot of hard work — but I’m also just having fun with my friends.” When it comes to offering advice for all those budding comedians out there, Bayer stresses one thing: writing. “Write — whether it’s a screenplay or a script or a stand-up routine, it’s really good to keep writing. You get better by writing, and you have stuff to show people — the further you get into the industry, even if you’re a performer, you need to have stuff to show people. And just keep performing.” As for Bayer, she’s definitely going to keep performing. With the help of a relatively healthy diet, many naps and a lot of coffee, Vanessa Bayer will continue to make millions of Americans laugh on Saturday nights — and beyond.
Bayer smiles in her classic SNL headshot. Image courtesy of nbc.com.
On Manon Vergerio: Graphic black sweater, RVN, $198; Heather gray sweatpants, NSF, $198; Gilded fitted cap, $98; at Intermix; Dr. Martens, model’s own. On Patrick Yang: Black white graphic T-shirt; Red plaid flannel; stylist’s own. CityStep hoodie; Skinny denim jeans; Red, white and black sneakers; model’s own. On Kenya Anderson: White crop top, We the Free, $48, at South Moon Under. Black pants, Mustard Seed, $45, at Bonded. Leopard jacket, stylist’s own. Reckless black fitted cap; Red Converse; model’s own.
A STEP IN THE
Directed by Ashley Leung ’16, Bree Jackson ’15 and Arjan Singh ’16 Photographed by dyana so ’16 and Vidush mahansaria ’16 Modeled by kenya anderson ’14, Lara Berns ’14, Drew Hasson ’14, Tiffany Jordan ’14, caroline min ’14, grant roper ’14, samir shah ’15 manon vergerio ’14, Cassandra Vickers ’16 and Patrick yang ’14 Styled by Max Kurucar ’16, Ali Lotz ’16, Alex Moritz ’15, Robyn RapAport ’15 and Andreina van Maanen ’17 Coordinated by Rolanda Evelyn ’16
On Samir Shah: Tan and navy bomber jacket; Checkered navy blue and white shirt; Khaki pants; Black sneakers; Black fitted cap; Black rimmed glasses; model’s own. On Grant Roper: CityStep hoodie; Black graphic T-shirt; Red pants; Red Converse; Gray beanie; model’s own. On Lara Berns: Polka dot graphic T-shirt, Edward Edward, $130; Black denim shorts, J. Brand, $155; at Intermix. Red and white flannel shirt; Clippers fitted cap; stylist’s own. Black tights; White Converse; model’s own.
thewalk/ARTS&STYLE CityStep, Penn’s student-run community service group, uses dance to make a positive impact on local youth. BY Augusta Greenbaum here is more to CityStep than dance moves and red Chucks. This service-based dance group was originally founded in 1983 at Harvard. It expanded to Penn in 2004 and to Princeton this year. CityStep uses dancing as a way to teach important values to local middle school children, providing them with an educational and enjoyable creative outlet. This is the group’s biggest year yet — the 37 undergrads involved in Penn CityStep currently work with over 150 middle school students in six local Philadelphia schools. Every teaching group goes into the classroom twice a week to work on individualized choreography and lesson plans with the kids. The group also has weekend programming. In the past, CityStep has invited the kids to Penn’s campus for a four-hour weekend workshop and tour of the school. CityStep co-directors Lara Burns C’14 and Drew Hasson C’14 have both been involved with the group since their freshman year. As co-directors, they hold managerial and supportive roles in the group, making sure everything is organized and that no missteps take place. “We design the goals for the year and make sure that they are communicated and actualized,” Hasson explains. “We need to ensure that the full company has the skills and the resources to carry out its responsibilities. We are a multifaceted community of support,” Burns adds. Burns believes that dance has shaped her as a person. She has been dancing for as long as she can remember, and she even founded her high school dance team. This Beyoncéloving dancer is also a member of Onda Latina, and she likes to infuse her moves with a bit of salsa flair. Though she gravitates toward shiny accessories, Burns knows that when it comes to choosing clothing to dance in, comfort is key. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to have moves like Jagger to join CityStep. The group is all about having a good time with the kids and just going with the flow. Burns remembers that during her freshman year, some of the kids brought their siblings onstage to perform in the show. It didn’t matter that a few kids didn’t know the dance — what
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mattered was that they were having fun. Unlike Burns, Hasson had no formal dance experience prior to joining CityStep. He points out that “there is a misconception that people think the group is super danceheavy. Some of our best teachers have no dance experience.” Since joining CityStep, Hasson has become infamous for coming up with names for all of his moves. Burns explains that for Hasson, “It is not just a step, it is a sprinkler or it is a teacup.” Hasson loves to get creative with his dance move names, “and this is a great teaching technique for the kids,” Burns adds. Hasson doesn’t let fashion fall by the wayside either. He can often be seen rocking a signature scarf since, “they make me feel powerful.” The theme for CityStep’s special 10th anniversary show is book genres. On choosing a theme, Lara felt that, “Having a theme that is educational is an important factor.” This show will feature a broad array of dances, with everything from a karate-inspired piece (representing action books) to a Harry Potter themed fantasy genre number. With sick moves and an even sicker cause, you won’t want to miss CityStep’s show on May 2 at 7 p.m. and May 3 at 2:30 p.m. in the Iron Gate Theater (tickets sold at the door). Want to step up and join the group? Visit CityStepPenn.org and look out for auditions next semester. Remember that one small CityStep for Penn is one large step for local schoolchildren!
(Opposite page, bottom) On Drew Hasson: White fitted cap; White kneehigh socks; stylist’s own. Red, white and blue striped sweater; Denim short cutoffs; Red Converse; Black rimmed glasses; model’s own. On Caroline Min: Black and white leather jacket, Mustard Seed, $43; Turquoise sunglasses, $10; at Bonded. Black leather cropped tank, B.I.Q., $98; Green harem pants, Free People, $78; at South Moon Under. Black Converse, model’s own. On Cassandra Vickers: Gray sleeved black jacket, Intermix, $348; Patterned harem pants, Derek Lam, $325; at Intermix. Blue chambray shirt, South Moon Under, $79, at South Moon Under. Navy Converse, model’s own. On Tiffany Jordan: Striped overalls, Current Elliott, $268; Black holed sweater, Drifter, $168; at Intermix. Gold triangular earrings, stylist’s own. Black tights; Black Converse; model’s own.
TREND WATCH SPLURGE
SAVE Jil Sander S/S 2014
White classic cotton blazer, Barena, $272.25, visit farfetch.com.
Thierry Lasry X Garrett Leight acetate sunglasses, Thierry Lasry, $471, visit matchesfashion.com.
Reclaimed vintage round sunglasses, ASOS, $37.64, visit asos.com.
Collarless jacket, Giorgio Brato, $3,117.56, visit farfetch.com.
Slim vintage oxford shirt in colorblock, J.Crew, $79.50, visit jcrew.com.
Pink cotton cashmere VNeck cardigan, Uniqlo, $40, visit lyst.com.
â€˜Brockâ€™ wingtip, 1901, $99.95, visit nordstrom.com.
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Men cropped pants, Uniqlo, $29.90, visit uniqlo.com.
Pleated-front linenblend shirt, John Varvatos, $333, visit matchesfashion.com.
Heathered grey colorblocked cardigan, DSquared2, $540, visit ssense.com.
Light grey leather neon accent sneakers, Lanvin, $620, visit lyst.com.
Striped side folded cuff pants, Jil Sander, $650, visit barneys.com.
PLEATS please SAVE
Whatâ€™s more sophisticated than white suits and pleated skirts? Try out minimalist white elegance with metallic accessories for a look that will shine bright under the summer sun.
BY JESSIE CHOI
SPLURGE Noise-print silk and cotton blend top, Balenciaga, $995, visit mathesfashion.com .
proenza schouler s/s 2014
Cable texture zip sweat, Topshop, $72, visit topshop.com.
Limited pink stone rope necklace, Newlook, $33.25, visit newlook.com. Necklace in two tone, Tom Binns, $1,670, visit stylebop.com.
The Style pleated skirt, ASOS, $52.69, visit asos.com.
Pandora squared perspex clutch, Charlotte Olympia, $1,565, visit modaoperandi.com.
White geo metal clutch, Miss Selfridge, $61, visit missselfridge.com.
Ishart striped crepe de chine maxi skirt, Malene Birger, $595, visit net-a-porter.com.
High heel leather sandal with buckle, Zara, $119, visit zara.com.
Two-tone leather sandals, Proenza Schouler, $845, visit saksfifthavenue.com.
TREND WATCH SPLURGE
Gold side shield round sunglasses, Thom Browne, $1,000, visit lyst.com.
Dries van noten S/S 2014
Jasper glasses, Warby Parker, $95, visit warbyparker.com.
Versace vintage shirt, Versace, $673, visit farfetch.com. Floral-print shirt, H&M, $49.95, visit H&M.
Camo backpack, Mi-Pac, $47.05, visit asos.com.
Light blue bird print shorts, River Island, $60, visit us.riverisland.com.
Green suede camo safi loafers, H by Hudson, $165, visit ssense.com.
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Camo flower print backpack, Givenchy, $1,125, visit mrporter.com.
Printed patent leather loafers, Jimmy Choo, $750, visit saksfifthavenue.com.
Multicolor tropical bermuda shorts, Billtornade, $212, visit lyst.com.
SAVE Golden dangle feather ear cuff, Boticca, $60, visit boticca.com.
This season, surround yourself with prints â€” whether itâ€™s lavish gallery-inspired patterns or fanciful florals. These lively printed skirts, shorts and shirts will give you just the jolt of life you need this summer.
Earrings, Dolce & Gabbana, $925, visit thecorner.com.
Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2014
Daisy embellished flower metal headband, Eugenia Kim, $290, visit net-a-porter.com.
White contrast black sleeveless vintage floral dress, Sheinside, $37.10, visit sheinside.com.
Yellow embellished dress, Mary Katrantzou, $6,250, visit lyst.com.
Classic Jane 110 ankle strap sandal, Saint Laurent, $795, visit ysl.com. Santorini clutch, Kayu, $185, visit ahalife.com.
Stecy high heels, Steve Madden, $79.95, visit stevemadden.com.
Duchesse intreccio impero ayers knot clutch, Bottega Venetta, $1,450, visit bottegavenetta.com.
TREND WATCH: BEAUTY A bold approach to fresh-faced beauty dominated the Spring/Summer 2014 runways. Incorporate these styles this season for a day or night look that really pops! BY TINA HSU
MARVELOUSLY MATTE Tuck away those shiny glosses – matte lips are all the rage this season. Orange is definitely the new black (and red, pink and every other lip color you can think of ). The color is bold and sassy, perfect for spring smooching. For those of you who would rather stick to more subdued colors, matte berry and violet lips are also in style. Matte lipstick isn’t the easiest to apply, but these simple pointers can help get you started: Begin with a lip liner that matches your lipstick and draw soft, feathering lines starting from your Cupid’s bow. Using a lip brush, apply the lipstick in small, fast strokes radiating outwards. Make sure to exfoliate and hydrate your lips properly before applying the lipstick – no one likes dry, flaky lips. Finish by dabbing off any excess lipstick with a tissue. For a fuller, sharper-looking pout, use a reverse lip liner or clean up the edges of your lips with concealer. Painted Love Lipstick in AGo-Go, Kat Von D, $19, visit sephora.com.
Lip Tar: Matte, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, $18, visit occmakeup.com.
Opaque Lipstick in My Beautiful Rocket, Lime Crime, $18, visit limecrime.com.
Dennis Basso S/S 2014
Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Khao San Road, NARS, $24, visit sephora.com.
BLUE DEBUT Put away the harsh black eyeliner. This season, it’s all about the blues, baby! Whether you decide to spring for subtle navy or bright baby blue eyeliner, this flattering color is sure to make your eyes pop. Blue eyeliner works especially well if you wing it at the end – think of it like a fancy twist on the cat eye. Simply dot your eyelids near your lash line and connect the dots, creating a small, upwards “v” shape towards the corners of your outer eye. For an even bolder look, outline and smudge the blue with some black eyeliner – we prefer cream eyeliners for this! Aqua Creamliner in Matte Turquoise, Make Up For Ever, $22, visit makeupforever.com.
Pearlglide Intense Eye Liner in Petrol Blue, MAC Cosmetics, $16, visit maccosmetics.com.
Chloé S/S 2014
Marc by Marc Jacobs S/S 2014
CONTOUR AND CONTRAST It’s all about the bold shadows and angled contouring. Start with a fresh slate by going au naturel with a light, dewy foundation or just a dab of BB cream. For glowing, healthy skin without foundation, use Clarisonic’s Aria Sonic Skin Cleansing Brush every couple of days. Skip the heavy blush and apply a moisturizing gel base to hide any wrinkles. For the most natural look, contour with a cream foundation; powders are much more dramatic and suitable for nighttime use. Starting from your temples, trace just below your cheekbones and blend in the cream foundation, making sure to choose one that’s two to three shades darker than your natural skin tone. Finish off the look with a subtle highlighting powder right above all the shadows that you have created. Pro Angled Contour Brush #75, Sephora Collection, $30, visit sephora.com.
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Camera Ready CC Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Dark Spot Correcting, Smashbox, $42, visit sephora.com.
Marvelous Mousse Transformative Foundation, Marc Jacobs Beauty, $55, visit sephora.com.
Terre Saharienne Bronzing Powder SPF 12, Yves Saint Laurent, $50, visit sephora.com.
FIVE BIG CHANGES IN MENSWEAR
The traditional clothes that make the man are coming apart at the seams. BY ERICH KESSEL
preoccupation with menswear is a relatively new part of the fashion system. Since the increase in accessibility of sartorial options to the everyday person in the 1940s, western fashion discourse has been primarily centered around womenswear. Turn to the early 2000s, however, and men have been gradually folded into the mix. Highlighted by the success of magazines like GQ and the renaissance of men’s fashion departments at stores like Gap and J.Crew, fashion is now increasingly important to how we think about what it means to be a man. This development has affected major changes in the way men dress — in short, women aren’t the only ones who are allowed to engage and have fun with fashion anymore.
ANDROGyNOUS FASHIONS Perhaps most notable is menswear’s evolving perspectives on masculinity. Broadly, menswear designers have been playing with gender and experimenting in ways that provoke us to think about and challenge traditional modes of dress. Two designers who are pushing us to dress and think differently are Raf Simons, a fashion designer most known for his position as creative director at Dior, and J.W. Anderson. The work of these designers and other avant-gardists in menswear envisions inclusive, transgressive fashion and is at A look from J.W. Anderson’s F/W times genderless and anti-traditional. 2014 collection. Image courtesy of style.com. Take, for example, the beige cocoon that enveloped a model at the most recent J.W. Anderson presentation or the unisex aesthetic of London’s Rad Hourani. These experiments have trickled into mainstream fashion, trend by trend.
Prints, patternS, colors
Prints at Prada’s S/S 2014 men’s collection. Image courtesy of vogue.co.uk.
The move away from more conservative menswear colors, such as flat grays, blues and blacks, towards more interesting colors and prints is also of note. If you have ever felt compelled to rock a crazy floral or radical plaid, today is your day. Recent runways have forecasted more ostentatious fabric choices than ever before. Geometric shapes, Warholian screenprints and eye-catching patterns have all been featured prominently on runways in London, Paris and Milan. This trend in menswear reflects a developing self-assuredness in the modern man that allows him to step out of his comfort zone and try something new.
The anti-suit Accompanying current experiments in unusual prints and colors is a shift away from suiting as the primary focus of men’s fashion. The suit is, to use an evolutionary metaphor, the common ancestor of many contemporary menswear looks. The invention of the suit served as a major turning point in the development of menswear. Despite the suit’s importance in culture, designers are no longer bowing to its superiority, as can been seen through their focus on streetwear and athleticism, which have been major themes
of the past few seasons. Designers like Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli and Gareth Pugh have made significant strides by incorporating technological experimentation and futuristic aesthetics into their garments. The inclusion of these new aesthetics threatens the supremacy of the gray three-piecer — and we are not sad to see it go.
Accessories What’s more important than accessories in the burgeoning universe of menswear? The latest sneaker at Valentino, the door knocker nose rings at Givenchy and the totes at Gucci all define the zeitgeist. The increased importance of accessories is remarkable. Only 10 years ago, a cool bracelet or an important scarf would have been considered too feminine for A laid back, sporty look from men. But fashion moves fast, and those Christopher Shannon S/S 2014. hanging on to schoolyard critiques have Image courtesy of showstudio.com. been left behind. You can walk into any Urban Outfitters or American Apparel to see this in action. Leather backpacks, souped-up baseball caps and glimmering watches show that a new accessory culture has been articulated. To a certain extent, owning the latest accessory has usurped the lead role that most clothes occupy. Instead of organizing quiet accessories around a look, the contemporary man often organizes looks around great accessories, with the assuredness and confidence characteristic of this new discourse.
big-name male models One of fashion’s quieter developments has been the increasing profile of male models. There were always big names in male modeling, such as David Gandy, Tyson Beckford and Tyson Ballou. Their appearances, however, were few and far between. Now, the big names of male modeling are seen ubiquitously on runways and billboards, in magazine ads and blogs. Clément Chabernaud, Fernando Cabral, Adrien Sahores, Jon Kortajarena and the like have come to dominate men’s fashion as new cultural icons.
Watches, bags and sandals decorated Versace’s S/S 2014 collection. Image courtesy of style.com.
INVITE ONLY The debate continues: who is welcome at New York Fashion Week, and who shouldn’t BY Nicole Malick make the cut?
“The focus, it seems, is shifting back to a more removed bubble, separating the fashion haves from the have-nots.”
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loggers Scott Schuman, Garance Doré, Tommy Ton and Bryan Grey-Yambao sat front row at the Dolce & Gabbana show in September of 2009, each equipped with a laptop and ready to immediately document the elusive experience in Milan for their readers. Just a few days earlier in New York City, 13-year-old “It girl” Tavi Gevinson sat in the same coveted row at Marc Jacobs. This continued a developing trend from previous seasons, with prominent fashion bloggers gaining increasing access to major shows. Reveling in front row after front row, fashion bloggers appeared to have successfully climbed the ranks, warmly welcomed by designers as an instantaneous advertising medium and championed by readers as proof that the fashion world’s dividing line could be crossed. Fast forward to 2013. New York Fashion Week had gotten a little out of hand. Crowds of aspiring fashionistas would descend for the 10-minute shows, vying for seats amongst buyers, celebrities and the infamous Anna Wintour herself. Getting in sans official invite took just a dash of creativity from the determined guests. Some turned to Craigslist, where last minute tickets were resold for hundreds — some upwards of $1,000. More brash individuals might just arrive and attempt to talk their way in, to varying degrees of success. Others were content to strut designer digs outside the tents — peacocks for the sea of photographers — and never actually made it inside. Although these affairs occur in a separate sphere from that of the real invitees, the fashion elite isn’t looking to share the space or fight through the assemblage any longer. As a response to a call for less chaos, IMG Fashion, which produces Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, is adding new venues but scaling back audience sizes for 2014 — notably excluding the aforementioned celebrity-status bloggers from invite lists. Managing hectic schedules as they run from show to show, fashion insiders and big names are looking for a hassle-free viewing of each designer’s new collection. Their seating isn’t a game of luck, but a reflection of a complicated hierarchy. It’s a puzzle of sorts, to organize who deserves a better seat: Anna Dello Russo of Vogue Japan or Stefano Tonchi of W; a representative from Bergdorf Goodman or Barney’s; former New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn or Beyoncé? The hordes of viewers may not have directly threatened the places of these names, but bloggers
suddenly encroaching on their territory signaled a perceptible shift: the competition for viewing room had become even fiercer. Something doesn’t add up, though. Aren’t these shows for the spectacle? For the beauty of ready-to-wear and couture and shoes? To an extent, yes. But they are not for anyone and everyone. From the perspective of the industry, fashion shows, like the collections themselves, are meant to be exclusive. If the clothes were meant for mass consumption, they wouldn’t carry such expensive price tags. Luxury brands produce garments for those who can afford them — why should just anyone have access to see the creations modeled down the runway if they don’t have access to purchase them? Fashion writers promote (or criticize) collections, and buyers select what their stores will offer to shoppers in the coming months. Those privileged to view the shows, whether from the front row or the 15th, are meant to serve as the channels to bring the fashion to the general public. Thus, to some, IMG is simply pushing back against the increasing chaos that inhibited that overall goal. Where does this leave up-and-comers? Those who aspire to join the fashion ranks? Our own Penn students who, after producing and participating in Penn Fashion Week, wish to experience the real deal? Sure, fashion diffuses through stores and online outlets, but a true “in” to the industry is far more desirable. Is there a balance that can be reached, with corporate fashion and the common people enjoying high-fashion presentations in unison? For now, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is directing other interested parties online. Options such as viewing virtual shows or perusing subsequently published slideshows, insufficient for the media and the fashion elite, are the more obtainable options. The focus, it seems, is shifting back to a more removed bubble, separating the fashion haves from the have-nots. For the foreseeable future, bloggers and savvy individuals have been relegated to a lower fashion echelon, lacking the selectivity the industry seeks. Neither laptops in the front row, nor the calm of Fashion Week pre-street style blogs, are likely to be the norm in coming seasons. But don’t lose hope; elitism is so last season. As Fashion Week continues to evolve (a move to yet another new location is predicted by 2018), new opportunities may become available yet.
(Left) A star-studded front row featuring Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour. Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com. (Right) Image courtesy of thecitizensoffashion.com. (Opposite page, top) Image courtesy of wmagazine.com. (Opposite page, bottom) Stylish ladies pose in bold prints and chic silhouettes for eager street style photographers. Image courtesy of bjonesstyle.com.
From Prada to Zara, fashion corporations are undergoing scrutiny for unethical labor practices. BY EMILY ULRICH
(Top) Thousands of identical jackets hang at the Zara factory in Spain. Image courtesy of nytimes.com. (Bottom) A Bangladeshi garment factory worker in the sewing process. Image courtesy of ncwtv.com. (Opposite page) Inside the Chanel couture atelier, a seamstress perfects a garment’s details. Image courtesy of thecoveteur.com.
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owadays it’s easy to be so enamored with your most recent purchase that you fail to consider the conditions experienced by those anonymous hands most likely responsible for its production. With the rise of fast-fashion retailers, the demand for luxury goods has grown due to increasing accessibility to the average consumer. However, unethical manufacturing practices in many of these factories reveal a bleak reality that has recently forced industry standards into question. Ultimately, it all comes down to competition and profit. Ethically-aware customers rightfully question why products at certain price levels are made in low-grade, “slave labor” factories. When deciding between in-house or outsourced production, brands need to consider which option will enable them to remain competitive in the industry and provide the best services in terms of efficient turnover, textile availability and technology grade. The workers are at the expense of these services, as they are paid hourly wages as low as $0.22 USD in Bangladesh and $0.55 USD in China to compensate for higher costs elsewhere. Fast fashion retailers like H&M and Zara prefer outsourcing due mainly to the low-cost, high-productivity promises. Because of the expedient demand required of this industry segment, businesses cut costs through the use of low-wage production sites, in many cases turning a blind eye to safe labor practices. However, consumers have lately placed increased attention on the conditions of these factories, which has affected the associations they make with brands. For example, following the deaths of over 1,120 factory workers in Bangladesh’s Rana Plaza last July, many activist groups forced humanitarian concerns to the forefront of the apparel industry’s focus by pushing agencies to conduct more extensive investigations of certain retailers. As a result, Zara was found using unlicensed factories that exploited undocumented child labor, forcing child workers to live in poorly-equipped and unventilated factories while working 16-hour days. H&M, which was also called out for its use of child slave labor, outsourced its cotton from an Uzbekistani harvester that forced its employees (who were as young as nine-years-old) to work under the threat of lost wages or beatings. Though H&M justified its practices by claiming ignorance, the company was forced to reconsider its allocation methods and take responsibility for the practices of those employed under its brand name. With all the negativity surrounding the unethical practices of well-known businesses, it can be easy to generalize the labor practices of the fashion industry. There are many brands, however, that have maintained their promises of delivering high-end products through ethical means. Though Valentino uses factories to produce its products, it employs only a select 100 sewers, specifically trained to work for the haute couture atelier. Other design houses still employ more traditional methods. Hermès vowed not to use mechanized methods of construction; instead its products are handmade by artisans in their French “Ateliers Hermès.” While hundreds of bags are made daily in Chinese assembly lines, a single Hermès Kelly Bag is made by an individual and takes about 18 hours to construct. Furthermore, Chanel owns the entirety of its production line and maintains its conditions according to originating standards. The brand’s tight-knit, privately-owned network of
FASHION\thewalk “At the end of the day, businesses must be held responsible for their actions.”
ateliers is called the “Paraffection family.” Most of the relations Chanel currently has with its ateliers were formed back in the mid-twentieth century. In an effort to promote the employment of skilled craftsmen in the luxury segment, Chanel has acquired these ateliers to be used by numerous design houses. Lemarié, for example, supplies feathers and handconstructed adornments to couture houses like Dior in addition to Chanel. These examples illustrate the significant difference between the business objectives of fast-fashion retailers and luxury design houses, and it seems that as a result, high-end design houses uphold a gold standard absent in their more accessible counterparts. That being said, it would be simplistic to conclude that luxury fashion houses share a common immunity to the pressures of the ever-competitive market. Made in China labels tend to impose a degree of skepticism about product quality — especially when tagged on designer labels that are expected to read otherwise. In an effort to maintain appearances, there have been several Italian designers that have cut costs by using cheap labor in Italian locations. Though Prada has rescinded claims that it manufactures in China, the brand received scrutiny in 2007 for housing factories in Prato, Italy, home to an exorbitantly low-income Chinese population. In some cases, designer houses have been forced to find new ways to adapt their business models to the challenging competition of the fast fashion segment. For example, Zara’s constantly-rotating stock, while responding positively to consumer demands, has also forced the luxury and couture segments to change their methods to remain relevant. Designers have increased their number of collections, with pre-season lines in addition to regular season and couture lines. Given this increasing supply and shift to less costly methods of production from upper-tier brands, the question arises of whether longevity in the industry necessitates cutting corners.
At the end of the day, businesses must be held responsible for their actions. Ethics is an issue at the forefront of the retail/apparel industry, and it’s important to be aware of who’s acting responsibly and who’s taking inappropriate shortcuts. It is only through consumer pressure and willingness to support industry initiatives that we can ensure the fair treatment and compensation of laborers in the production of our treasured
Whether or not this is solely a battle between fast fashion companies and luxury brands, a serious fracture currently exists in the apparel industry between those focused on quality and those who take shortcuts with cheap labor. While some speculate that a shift away from outsourcing in apparel industry trends is unlikely, fashion industry agencies have sought to change the standards by which business is conducted by all fashion corporations. Influenced by the practices of top design houses, agencies such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have sought to revitalize local and ethical production of apparel. The CFDA has built relations with the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) to make the city a greater competitor in the production industry through a plan called Fashion.NYC.2020. One of the main initiatives taken in this plan is the $3 million Fashion Manufacturing Initiative, in which retail production companies apply to receive grants for improvements in infrastructure and technology, as well as establishment of programs to reeducate employees based on higher grades of technology and sustainability. With this stimulus, the industry would be better equipped to improve the overall conditions of manufacturing. Theory CEO Andrew Rosen, Rag & Bone and many U.S. design houses that support local manufacturing are working in association with the CFDA to progressively change the way production takes place in the luxury apparel industry.
h c s t i K ! y h a c r s r t i u K H
On Angel Chapman: Colorful cutout dress, Mustard Seed, $62, at Bonded. Black gladiator sandals; Jeweled Earrings, VICXX Designs; stylist’s own. On Catherine Quigley: Watercolor tee, IRO Jeans, $238, at Intermix. Lavendar skirt; Desert boots; Pink and metallic layered necklace, VICXX Designs; Sunglasses; stylist’s own. Assorted bracelets; Stacked rings; model’s own.
un . es he s re am t da t fr n in d u u an ar-o re f d in nd f mo w a or e th pes ds f o t ha en n i io ty s t fr t r u o i h ca fl w nts, ome o s hr pri ! T ed and s u ir k rio insp rin e s d so ack ool e c b a tb n’ row ith o h , d l, t s w er m pica rend m su r tro se t s i a he Th we te t to pda U
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FASHION\thewalk Directed by: Ashley Leung ’16, Daniella Sakhai ’15, Bree Jackson ’15 and Arjan Singh ’16 Photographed by: Dyana So ’16 Modeled by: Tatiana Brunvall ’16, Angel Chapman ’16, Catherine Quigley ’16, Tim Mason ’16 and Andrew Shein ’15 Styled by: Josefina Brauning ’17, Jessie Choi ’16, Bernice Kong ’15, Max Kurucar ’16, Vasiliki papanikolopoulos ’16, Lindy Smith ’16 And Julia Zhu ’17 Beauty by: Molly Wang ’17
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On Andrew Shein: Tricolor rugby shirt, Gant Rugger, $145, at P’s and Q’s. Sunglasses, stylist’s own. Jeans; Watermelon patterned socks; Suede loafers; model’s own. On Catherine: Tropical graphic jacket, The Textile Rebels, $393, at Intermix. Black turtleneck; Cream skirt; Pendant necklace, VICXX Designs; Black gladiator sandals; Sunglasses; stylist’s own. Stacked rings, model’s own.
On Tatiana Brunvall: Denim vest, Rag & Bone, $198, at Intermix. Graphic tank top; White skort; Stacked metallic bracelets, VICXX Designs; Gray hat, stylist’s own. Tan heels, stylist’s own.
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On Tim Mason: Floral button thewalk down, Shades of Grey, $99; Chino shorts, Gant Rugger, $120; at P’s and Q’s. Sunglasses, stylist’s own. Sperry’s, model’s own. On Angel: Black mesh skirt, Ohne Titel, $345, at Intermix. Tribal print multicolored top; Black gladiator sandals; Metallic necklace, VICXX Designs; stylist’s own.
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(Opposite page) On Andrew: Black multicolored button down, Shades of Grey, $99, at P’s and Q’s. Jeans; Watermelon patterned socks; Suede loafers; model’s own. On Tatiana: White bustier crop top, Nicholas, $250, at Intermix. Tweed skort; Blue-green necklace, VICXX Designs; White Converse; stylist’s own. On Tim: Graphic t-shirt, Gant Rugger, $52; Pink Chino pants, Gant Rugger, $130; at P’s and Q’s.
On Tatiana: Patterned crop top, Torn by Ronny Kobo, $238; Patterned skirt, Torn by Ronny Kobo, $298; at Intermix. Black gladiator sandals, stylistâ€™s own.
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TRESS TO IMPRESS
Directed by Ashley Leung ’16 Photographed by Bonnie Arbittier ’14 Modeled by Hannah Harney ’17, Janice Hu ’14 and Anastasiya Shekhtman ’14 Hair styling by Architeqt Salon featuring L’Oréal Professionnel Hairchalk Styling by Mariana Pavia ’17 and Katie Wu ’17 Beauty by Carolina Beltran ’15 and Joyce Hu ’17
This season, don’t shy away from a bold new look. Make a serious statement and add some sass to your step by going for a dramatic cut or a killer color.
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THE WALK IS IN YOUR CLOSET These two Penn students have envy-worthy closets — take a look inside and see for yourself!
By EMILY LIPSON AND LAURA PETRO
MAYA RIVERA C'17 Hailing from northern New Jersey, Maya Rivera is always decked out in daring, effortlessly cool outfits that get her noticed. This half-Japanese, half-Dominican girl knows how to seamlessly mix androgynous and feminine styles. The WALK had the privilege of peeking inside her closet to gain her insights on fashion. The WALK: We love what you wear. How do you get dressed in the morning? Maya Rivera: First I see if it is warm or not outside. If it’s warm, I take advantage of the nice weather and wear a skirt or a dress. If I have recently purchased items, I will wear a new piece everyday and work around that. For example, my most recent shopping excursion was to Zara in Manhattan where I bought two new pairs of jeans. The WALK: What are your favorite stores? MR: Thrift stores or my dad’s closet. I’m also obsessed with flea markets. The New Meadowlands Market in New Jersey is great, and I love this place called The Market NYC in New York. I also love looking for new clothing and jewelry when I travel. My favorite pieces are a necklace from Kenya and a necklace my aunt got me from Peru. The WALK: Who are some of your style icons? MR: I love the models Anya Kazakova and Natalie Suarez, and the singer Sky Ferreira. I’m obsessed with models because they live such fascinating lives. The WALK: What about other peoples’ style inspires you? MR: I respect anything that is totally out there. I collect big ponchos and like to wear them with cutoffs and Birkenstocks. I respect people who wear clothes from their own culture that are
unique and interesting. The WALK: If you could only have three items of clothing, what would they be? MR: This baggy white shirt with a smiley face on it that is shot through the head. It’s huge and I wear it as a dress with lace thigh-highs and Docs. I would also keep a flannel that I stole from my brother and a poncho from my aunt. All three items were given to me, which is probably why I like them. The WALK: How do your friends describe your style? MR: Most of them tell me, “you’re dressed like a boy.” A lot of people say my style is really ’90s, probably because I wear my mom’s old crochet tops from the ’90s, and when I go out, I’ll a wear a halter top that says “Parental Advisory” on it with a choker. The WALK: Do you see yourself going into fashion after college? MR: I’m a PPE major, but I do want to go into fashion. It might have something to do with the fact that my mom is an accountant and my dad does art. He was friends with the artist Clement Meadmore who made enormous minimalist sculptures. My dad met him when he was a medic in the Navy and, after he died of old age, my dad took over his work. This may have something to do with my appreciation for artistic endeavors.
Ken Schindler C'16 When we sat down to chat with Ken Schindler, we realized that this Oregon native can certainly talk style, and his closet proves he’s got it. While the physics major may only jokingly dream of being a curator for MR PORTER, we certainly think he has the fashion finesse for it. We’re still wondering how we can swipe his sick vintage pocket square collection (Givenchy, YSL, Burberry, oh my!) The WALK: What do you think about when you’re getting dressed in the morning?
The WALK: Where are your favorite places to shop?
Ken Schindler: I really like the fact that I don’t have to think about it too much. I have my three sets of trousers and my button downs — I’ll choose either my jeans or my chinos, and I always wear a white Kirkland shirt.
KS: I really love thrifting – it’s become a hobby. I used to justify it in terms of economic reasons, but now I just love it. There’s a Goodwill in Seattle that’s just amazing. I get all of my Allen Edmonds loafers on eBay. It’s awesome because they are normally completely outside of my price range but now I have three pairs of $300 loafers.
The WALK: How would you describe your personal style? KS: I really like Nick Waterhouse’s style — he calls it “pacific coast Americana” — that’s pretty much the look I go for. I’m also pretty influenced by anachronism — I like doing nostalgic pieces, especially given that we go to Penn and there’s a lot of history here, it’s cool to pretend to be a part of it. I also am influenced by the “Ivy League Trad,” which is a big trend in Japan. I get a lot of my style inspiration from the book Take Ivy. The WALK: Wow, you have so many different influences! That’s awesome. KS: Yeah, I think a lot of my style sort of comes from the fact that, being from Japan, I was never really part of this world, but then when I came to the United States, I really wanted to be a part of it. That’s why I love heritage pieces — they tell a story. All my clothes are vintage and well-worn — they have character.
The WALK: dislike?
All images photographed by Bonnie Arbittier C’14 and Laura Petro C’16.
Are there any brands you
KS: I’m really against fast fashion. I think it’s better to buy used, higher-quality brands, like J. Press, Ralph Lauren and Pendleton — I guess I’m sort of a label whore that way, but they’re just better quality. The cheaper stuff is all synthetic — I hate synthetics. I prefer things that look lived in. The WALK: What’s your favorite season for clothes? KS: Winter. Well, maybe I have to rethink that after this winter. But I love sweaters. J. Press made the shaggy dog sweater really famous, and I think the purposeful pilling is just so cool. I’ll throw that on with a white shirt, one of my button-downs and chinos, and I don’t really have to think about it. I’m out the door. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 47
FROM A.M. TO P.M.
A statement piece can stay with you all day and night.
BY ROBYN RAPAPORT
Your statement piece is just as stylish after sunset. Pair your pumps with a going out top to transition your look from day to night.
Girl time is glam time! When brunching with buds, amp up your outfit with some awesome accessories.
When it comes to an interview ensemble, toughen up a floral print by borrowing the classic blazer look from the boys.
When playing up your studious side, don't be afraid to add a little kick to your classroom look. Funk up your footwear or go nerdy-chic with a pair of specs.
ot to sound horribly cliché, but the college lifestyle has me constantly in a time crunch. I can never find the time to change from gym to street-wear, let alone from class clothes to party attire. So when I fell head over heels for a pair of printed floral pants, I knew I had to find a way to take them from daytime adorable to nighttime chic. On any given day, these silky trousers can transform from class-ready to club-worthy. Here’s a look at a day in the life of the ultimate printed pant. When it comes to dressing with a statement piece, the key is coordinating your entire ensemble around that particularly bold item. Think simple staples and classic basics. With a 9:00 a.m. interview before my first class, I began the day’s look in a white button-down with a black trimmed collar. The neutral-colored shirt is professional without looking unoriginal. In terms of footwear, I went for a classic and wearable work stem. The three-inch heeled bootie is an office staple for any season. Practical and effortlessly chic, these just-high-enough semi-heels give you all the confidence of a stiletto and the comfort of a sneaker. To polish off the look, I paired my printed pants with an oversized boyfriend blazer. The navy color and classic buttons are work appropriate, while the oversized fit and cuffed sleeves let me show off my style. Finally, no interview look is complete without a nerd-alert accessory. My geek-chic glasses finished off this interview-ready get up. After my interview, I took my outfit down to campus cute level. Let’s face it: even if you’re in a suit, no one understands a lady in heels
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on Locust Walk. Luckily, my large bag allowed me to carry along a pair of casual kicks. A word to the wise: if you’re going to wear sneakers with your statement piece, they better be stylish. Hence, I grabbed my favorite pair of casual footwear: Comme des Garçons PLAY Converse. To show off the signature heart, I cuffed my pants just enough to lengthen the look of my legs. I kept my white button-down on, took off the blazer, and replaced it with a collegiate cashmere pullover. My glasses stayed on — nothing says A+ student like corrected eyesight. Following my overly studious morning, I figured it was time for brunch with a few friends. I ditched my study-ready sweater and opted for an edgier ensemble. Pairing my pants with a leather jacket and bold necklace balanced out the girly floral print while maintaining a little glamour. Not to mention, it’s always fun to play with outlandish accessories when it’s just you and the girls. There’s no such thing as too much when it comes to brunch with best friends. As evening rolled around, my ensemble needed reworking. This transition from day to night required a stop home for a quick costume change. All it took to take my look from afternoon brunch to a night on the town, however, was a pair of platform pumps and a shirt that showed a little skin. With billowy, blousy trousers, you sometimes run the risk of getting trapped in a daytime-only mindset. But pair this type of pant with a sky-high heel and a dressy top and your look is no longer limited to the glare of the sun. Finally, make sure to sport an evening bag to complete your outfit under the cover of nightfall.
Poppin’ tags How to track down high-end vintage finds to take your vintage shopping game to the next level.
By Mary-Alice Solmssen
f vintage shopping were a competitive sport, my mother would compete at the Olympic level. Her wardrobe is filled with vintage Dior, Chanel and Armani treasures that she guards more fiercely than Smaug does his pile of dwarf gold. She once drove to my boarding school, an hour and a half outside of London, to retrieve a blouse I’d snuck from her closet. On a recent shopping trip, I watched in bewilderment as she flitted from rack to rack, like a hyperactive hummingbird, pulling treasures from piles of what appeared (to my untrained eye) to be junk. There is an art to vintage shopping, and mastery requires patience, dedication, a keen eye and a willingness to get into scuffles with hipsters who try to steal that beautiful dress you found. Vintage shopping can be intimidating, but fear not! We thought we’d pass along tips on how to avoid junk and find gems.
VINTAGE SHOPPING for the UNINITIATED 1) Patience, Grasshopper, Patience Vintage shopping is harder than shopping off-the-rack. The results are more variable, and on average, it takes more time and more attention than popping into Zara. Be prepared to invest that necessary time and attention. 2) The New Stuff is Often in the Front, but the Best Stuff is Always Hidden Usually, vintage stores will have the higher-end pieces in the window to draw in customers. Inside, cheaper merchandise is always in the front, because they want to shift it. More expensive items, like luggage or outerwear, are usually towards the back.
5) Be Wary of Knock-Offs The whole allure of vintage shopping is that you find one-of-a-kind items and treasures at reasonable prices. Don’t be a fool, though — if you find a dress with a Givenchy tag in an otherwise unremarkable hall, chances are it’s too good to be true. Always pay attention to the label. Does it look recently sewn in? 6) Make Friends with the Owner and Sales Clerks In my experience, vintage store clerks can be some of the most taciturn, unfriendly folk. But, it’s worth warming them up — they know where everything is hidden and are more likely to show you special pieces kept in the back.
run smaller and clothes from the 1950’s emphasize curves, for example. Regardless of its era, you won’t know if a piece looks good unless you try it on. Also, trying on a piece will give you a better idea of the condition it’s in. Did the seams feel like they were going to give out when you pulled the dress over your head? Give it a pass. 9) Take it in If you find an amazing piece but it’s a little off, you don’t necessarily have to leave it behind. Shoulder pads can be snipped out, hemlines can be altered — ask the store clerk if they know of a reasonably priced tailor in the area.
3) Quality, not Quantity This is a maxim that really should apply to all areas of life, but is especially applicable to vintage shopping. It’s better to splurge on one well-made and preserved piece than to buy ten items, or a branded item that hasn’t been well preserved.
7) Fashion is Cyclical My mother has actually laughed at me after I’ve told her that a piece I’m wearing is off-the-rack. She’s right, though. All that ’90s stuff has made a resurgence, so why buy an Urban Outfitters ‘Renewal’ jacket for $80 when you could buy the real thing for less than half of that price?
10) Buy, Buy, Buy! If it fits well and the price doesn’t give you heart palpitations, for goodness sake, BUY IT! Chances are, it won’t be there tomorrow, or even in an hour. If you don’t like it, more often than not you can sell it to another vintage store — another perk of buying vintage.
4) Preservation It doesn’t matter if it’s Chanel, if it’s not preserved well, it’s not worth the buy.
8) Try it on Different fashion epochs tend to flatter different frames. Clothes from the 1930’s–1950’s tend to
As with everything, practice makes perfect, but armed with these tips from my mother’s playbook, you’re ready for the vintage big leagues!
All images photographed by Mary-Alice Somssen C’14.
HIGHCLASS Sharp suits and sleek skirts are the uniform for a new brand of troublemaker. Break from your old clique and rock a dress code with attitude. The back of the class is where it’s at.
Directed by Ashley Leung ’16, Daniella Sakhai ’15, Arjan Singh ’16 and Dyana So ’16 Photographed by Cody Min ’17 Modeled by Eric Kim ’16, Nick Marini ’14 and Molly Collett Mellencamp ’17 Styled by Michael Kigawa ’17 and Andreina Van Maanen ’17 Beauty by Laura Sachse ’16
00 THE WALK / WINTER 2014
On Eric Kim: White button down shirt; Black jeans; White slip on shoes; stylist’s own. Silver watch; Leather bracelet; model’s own. On Molly Collett Mellencamp: Patterned wrap skirt, Helmut Lang, $265, at Intermix. White tank; Tan booties; Gold bangles; stylist’s own. On Nick Marini: Light blue blazer; Dark blue top; Khaki pants; Maroon Converse; stylist’s own.
On Nick: Light gray blazer; Blue paisley button down; Light gray pants; White Converse; stylist’s own. Silver ring, model’s own. (Opposite page) On Molly: Blue ombre shirt, Paul Smith, $425, at Knit Wit. White Blazer; Royal blue skort; Black heels; Collar necklace; stylist’s own.
(Opposite page) On Molly: White oversized sweater, Endless Rose, $65, at Piper. Black leather overall dress, Love Leather, $425, at Intermix. Gold necklace; Black heels; stylistâ€™s own.
On Molly: Pale pink leather jacket, Iro, $1,250, at Intermix. White button down top; White skirt; Nude pumps; Pearl necklace, VICXX Designs; Gold hoop earrings; stylist’s own. (Opposite page) On Nick: Navy blazer; Chambray button down shirt; Khaki pants; White Converse; stylist’s own. On Eric: Navy pea coat; Aquamarine pants; Striped socks; Black shoes; model’s own.
56 THE WALK / WINTER 2014
No Place Like NoLibs: Venture North to Philly’s funkiest new hotspot.
by andie davidson
HOW TO GET TO NOLIBS: It may seem like a trek out of the Penn bubble, but NoLibs is just a quick subway ride away. Take the Market-Frankford Line to Spring Garden (after 2nd St.). When you exit the subway, turn right (along Spring Garden St.), then right again almost immediately and head up 2nd St.—voila! Cost: $2.25 each way — or $1.80 per token in packs of two or more.
he jet set is heading north — to Northern Liberties, that is. A former manufacturing district, Northern Liberties (or NoLibs, as those in the know refer to it) has recently been adopted by an up-and-coming group of artists, hip restaurateurs and independent boutique owners. Located just north of Old City, the district was named one of the top hipster neighborhoods in the US by Forbes.com. Eclectic and walkable, it’s the perfect place to spend the day exploring.g.
Brown Betty Dessert Boutique (722 N. 2nd St.) www.brownbettydesserts.com These ladies know their sweets. It’s a three-generation tradition of sugary goodness — the mother-daughter team took their inspiration (and name) from baking-savvy grandmother Betty. This NoLibs bakery offers a selection of cookies, custom cakes and cupcakes with spunky names like “Hattie Don’t Play” (chocolate fudge cake) and “Alice’s Two Step” (almond pound cake). With mouth-watering cupcake concoctions such as red velvet and sweet potato pound cake with spiced vanilla buttercream, Betty’s is guaranteed to satisfy any sweet tooth.
PYT (1050 N. Hancock St.) www.pytphilly.com It’s time to get serious about burgers. PYT (“pick your topping”) isn’t for the faint-hearted (or weak-stomached), but it lives up to its name — any burger topping you can dream up, they have probably tried. The funky burger bar offers a boisterous vibe and a menu of crazy creations and “adult shakes.” The burgers themselves range from the classic PYT to the gourmet Lobster and Crab to the just plain kooky “Doh! Nut” (beef, American cheese and chocolate-covered bacon on a glazed donut bun). Cafe La Maude (816 N. 4th St.) www.cafelamaude.com With its quaint patio tables and pressed tin ceiling, Café La Maude can easily be mistaken for a Parisian Bistro, or with its scrumptious baklava, a Lebanese café. La Maude serves up a variety of traditional café fare with French and Middle Eastern flair. Mouthwatering options ranging from omelettes and quiche to kebbe (grilled lamb and pine nut patties) and foul moudamas (marinated fava beans, tomatoes, parsley, scrambled eggs) will have you drooling. With a world-traveler menu and an intimate, homey vibe, Café La Maude serves up a delicious plate of charm and nosh. The Random Tea Room & Curiosity Shop (713 N. 4th St.) www.therandomtearoom.com À la Alice in Wonderland whimsy, The Random Tea Room is filled with all things eccentric and miscellaneous. The quaint tea nook boasts an impressive menu of teas and herbal infusions (including a chai tea latte legendary among locals), plus fresh-baked pastries. Monthly musical events keep the atmosphere festive, and a rotating art gallery displays work by local artists. With vintage and locally made knickknacks scattered throughout the shop, there’s plenty to spark the imagination as you sip your tea.
All images photographed by Sara-Paige Silvestro C’16.
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Sh o p The Piazza at Schmidts (1001 N. 2nd St.) www.atthepiazza.com A European-style open-air plaza, the Piazza is constantly bustling with events and attractions. Catch an outdoor movie, concert or performance; check out a local artisan market or pop into the nearby shops and galleries. For a bite or sip, several surrounding restaurants and bars set up outdoor dining on the Piazza in the warmer months. Art Star (623 N. 2nd St.) www.artstarphilly.com If you have a weakness for handmade gifts and kitschy doodads, this shop may be dangerous to your bank account. Owned by two local artists, the gallery and boutique is stocked with a range of handmade and artisan goodies from jewelry to home decor to artwork. The back section of the store also boasts a selection of vintage clothing and accessories.
Swag Boutique (935 N. 2nd St.) www.swagphilly.com Whether you’re looking for a delicate gold necklace or a tongue-in-cheek trinket (dog butt magnet, anyone?), Swag likely has something that fits the bill. With a mélange of playful home wares, quirky gifts and unique jewelry and accessories, this shop has something to please everyone. Besides, it’s impossible to leave without finding something to chuckle at. Bloom (910 N. 2nd St.) www.bloomfolly.com Specializing in US-made and handmade products, this little shop is jam-packed with whimsical gifts, clothing, jewelry and accessories. From ornate beaded necklaces to organic candles to silly plush “Uglydolls,” there’s no telling what you’ll stumble upon.
Silk City (435 Spring Garden St.) www.silkcityphilly.com Bring on the neon lights and disco balls. Through the classic 1950sdiner facade, this colorful diner/lounge/nightclub pulses with DJmixed beats and funky-retro energy. Originally built as a diner car in 1952 in a New Jersey town nicknamed for its silk-manufacturing industry (hence the diner’s name), Silk City has been revamped as a Philly hotspot. In addition to regular musical events and a boisterous dance floor, the diner offers a twist on traditional diner grub with options like Thai chili glazed ribs and sweet potato and pork empanadas. For a bit of fresh air, swing by the festive patio and beer garden out back.
The Piazza at Schmidts (1001 N. 2nd St.) www.atthepiazza.com A European-style open-air plaza, the Piazza is constantly bustling with events and attractions. Catch an outdoor movie, concert or performance, check out a local artisan market or pop into the nearby shops and galleries. For a bite or sip, several surrounding restaurants and bars set up outdoor dining on the Piazza in the warmer months.
North Bowl (909 N. 2nd St.) www.northbowlphilly.com Think bowling is for old people? North Bowl brings a new spark to bowling with neon lights, DJs and a hip, retro vibe. In between games, hang out in the upstairs lounge, rekindle your love for PacMan with old-school arcade games or just nibble and sip while watching people groan at gutter balls. North Bowl offers an inventive twist on traditional arcade nosh with a menu of specialty cocktails, sandwiches and munchies made with local ingredients. Let the games begin! Crane Arts building (1400 N. American St.) www.cranearts.com Spending your evening in a walk-in freezer might not have been in your plans, but the Ice Box brings a fresh sort of cool to the table (never fear, the freezer is no longer functioning). Characteristic of the building’s quirky inventiveness, the Ice Box is just one of the project spaces that make up the Crane Arts building, a former plumbing warehouse turned art hub. The space serves as the home for a vibrant mix of studios, artistic organizations and galleries and hosts regular events for art lovers. Events are usually free, and you never know what kind of inspiration you may stumble upon! Garden Variety “Playground” (900 N. 2nd St.) www.gardenvarietyphiladelphia.com Who says playgrounds are just for kids? When the days grow warmer, an eclectic hub of activity pops up in a lot at 2nd and Poplar. Garden Variety Playground features a array of ways to play, including concerts, art displays, flea markets and local artisan vendors. Munchies are available from rotating food trucks such as La Copine Brunch, Dapper Dog and Little Baby’s Ice Cream. There may not be a slide, but the space offers plenty of whimsical fun (pop-up pool party, anyone?). THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 59
thewalk/WALK ON thewalk
P OS H POINTERS
P A R T Y Say goodbye to boxed wine and hello to charming cocktails, delicious cake and an altogether unforgettable evening. BY JESSICA YACKEY
Birthday BYOs are a blast no matter what, but throwing a party for a friend that isn’t at La Viola or Charles’ Plaza can be even more exciting. Try these ideas that break the typical birthday mold and glamorize your party. Your guests will beg you to throw them a party of their own!
VENUE Warm weather gives everyone a valid excuse to celebrate outdoors. Adorn your backyard with these string lights and it will illuminate the whole party. Personalize your birthday party by making memories the center of attention. Forming the birthday girl or boy’s age in pictures or crepe paper (or both!) is a great reminder of all of the fun times packed into those years. A number-shaped photo wall is cheap, easy-to-make and a wonderful conversation starter. Hold your party in a more intimate setting. Give guests photo props to help them unleash their goofy sides. You don’t even need a photo booth — just a friend who has a decent camera! Looking for even more candid moments? Scatter disposable cameras (available at CVS) throughout the party on each table — you’ll have priceless surprises when you develop the film! (Clockwise from top left) Images courtesy of weddingomania.com, abubblylife.com, etsy.com. (Opposite page, clockwise from top left) Images courtesy of rikkisnyder.com, Selfie Straws, wikihow.com, cakeandthebeanstalk.com, celebrationsathomeblog.com.
WINTER 2014 60 THE WALK / SUMMER 2014
FOOD Decor Add some sparkle with a glittery birthday banner. Brighten up the atmosphere at any get-together, or turn this tip into an easy DIY project with a quick trip to Blick Art Supply (1330 Chestnut St.). Balloons can also instantly amp-up your party decor! If you’re feeling extra fancy, glue on tiny pom-poms to add a dash of whimsy.
Serve snacks in mason jars rather than paper plates to add some pizzazz to your party. Putting pretzels, candy or any sort of finger food into glass containers gives guests something to nosh on. Just when you thought puppy chow couldn’t look any better, it became even more appetizing. The cake, of course is the finishing touch. The Cake and the Beanstalk bakery put a quirky twist on the classic birthday cake. How could you not order from a place who’s tagline is “fee fi fo YUM?” We’re already drooling.
DRINKS Don’t let your drinks fall flat. Spice up your mixers with large pitchers of infusions instead of soda from FroGro. Refreshing basil lemonade rather than diet coke? Yes, please! Fun straws make all drinks better — that is a fact. A new company on campus, Selfie Straws, makes customizable plastic straws that can say nearly anything your heart desires. Hop on the bandwagon now and be the ultimate trendsetter! Or try a drunken watermelon. Appetizer PLUS drink?! Talk about killing two birds with one stone.
From NSO to graduation, our lovely seniors have graced us with their talent, creativity and (most importantly) sass for the past four years. But alas, they are bidding adieu to Locust Walk and jetting off to, well, everywhere. New York, Cali, Europe — the world is their collective oyster! Reminisce with us as our seniors tell us about their personal style, future plans and Penn memories. While we’re jealous that they won’t be cramming for finals with us next year, we wish them good vibes, good hair days and good luck for the future! BY MINJI KWAK
1 . JACQUELINE LEM POSITION: Operations Coordinator; Assistant Art Director Major: Communication, Consumer Psychology minor Plans for next year: Nielsen's "Watch" rotational program in NYC Your style in three words: Simple, comfortable, feminine Style advice for your freshman self: Invest in a good winter coat! Cardinal rule of style: Less is more. Favorite part of working with The Walk: Having the opportunity to collaborate with every department of the magazine and to see how much we've improved as an organization over the years.
2. MICAH KAATS
POSITION: Layout Team Major: Philosophy, Consumer Psychology minor Plans for next year: Living in France teaching English, spending the summer in Melbourne, Australia, and hopefully headed to graduate school in September 2015. Your style in three words: Uniquely classic. Don’t even need the third. Style advice for your freshman self: Do more. Fashion icon: George Clooney. Every time. Style essential you'd die without: Glasses. No, but actually.
3. ALIYA SAIGOL Position: Director of Finance and Corporate Sponsorship Major: Finance Plans for next year: Sales and Trading in NYC. Your style in three words: Versatile, polished, relaxed Cardinal rule of style: If you aren’t comfortable in it, don’t wear it. Style advice to your freshman self: Sorority tanks should never be worn in public, unless it’s Fling or you’re going to the gym. Style essential you'd die without: My perfume – I’ve been using the same one since 10th grade.
4. TARA GONZALEZ Position: Photographer Major: English, Fine Arts minor Plans for next year: I’m still applying for positions, so we’ll see what happens! Your style in three words: Everything and anything. Cardinal rule of style: Don’t care what people think of you. Style advice to your freshman self: Wear jeans less. Favourite piece of clothing: Doc Martens.
62 THE WALK / SUMMER 2014
5. BONNIE ARBITTIER
6. ELONIA MCHENRY
Position: Photographer and Women’s Style Director Major: Fine Arts, French minor Plans for next year: Graphic design internship with Alice + Olivia in NYC! Your style in three words: "Sooo high school." Style advice for your freshman self: Don't wear Crocs. With a matching Crocs sweatshirt. Ever. Favorite part of working with The Walk: As Women’s Style Director, I loved going to the Philadelphia boutiques and getting to know the owners! Style essential you'd die without: My camera.
Position: Editor-in-Chief; Stylist, Website Editorial Director (past) Major: Finance and Operations & Information Management Plans for next year: Working as an Associate Consultant for Bain in NYC. Your style in three words: Elegant, but casual Cardinal rule of style: Wear what makes you smile. Favorite part of working with The Walk: Besides everyone I’ve met, the all-nighter we pull the last few days before we send the issue off to the printer is intense, but fun. We get to a point where we’re delirious and joke about things like different fonts. Favorite piece of clothing: A perfect white T-shirt. It goes with everything!
Image photographed by Sara-Paige Silvestro C’16.
9. CORDELIA MESEROW
7. ERICA SACHSE
8. CINDY YUAN
Position: Creative Director; Style Director, Stylist, Print Writer, Photographer (past) Major: Urban Studies, Consumer Psych minor Plans for next year: Assistant English teacher in a French public school for seven months, then check out the scene in Melbourne. Your style in three words: Eclectic, risky, sophisticated Favorite & not-so-favorite Penn trends: Favorite – super-cool backpacks! Not-so-favorite – wearing gym clothes with no intent to go to the gym. Style advice to your freshman self: Stop walking around West Philly barefoot! Favorite part of working with The Walk: Helping people and myself to push our own creative boundaries – something most students don’t have the opportunity to do!
Position: Website Editorial Director Major: Bioengineering Plans for next year: Retail Management Program at Gap Inc. in San Francisco Your style in three words: Colorful, simple, classic Style advice for your freshman self: Have fun with it! Don’t feel like you have to dress in all black because most of campus dresses monochromatically. Favorite part of working with The Walk: Meeting amazing people on campus that are so passionate about this industry! Favorite piece of clothing: My Marc Jacobs watch (I bought it with my first paycheck and wear it almost every day).
Position: Copy Editor and Print Writer Major: English, French minor Plans for next year: Working in commercial real estate, as an analyst at Eastdil Secured. Your style in three words: Preppy with a flair. Style advice for your freshman self: Curb my BCBG bandage skirt habit. Favorite part of working with The Walk: Having the opportunity to write freely and intelligently about fashion. Fashion icons: Grace Kelly, Blair Waldorf.
10. MONTA OZOLINA (NOT PICTURED) Position: Operations Coordinator Major: Finance and Accounting Plans for next year: New York, New York Your style in three words: Clean, elegant, eclectic Cardinal rule of style: Does it fit me and my style? Favorite part of working with The Walk: Getting to know the creative staff and seeing them in action. Favorite designers: Natalija Jansone, Kelta and Ernest Sabine. THEWALKMAGAZINE.COM 63
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