The Surf Institute - QuickStart Guide

The Surf Institute Instruction Manual

© 2011 The Surf Institute

THE SCIENCE OF SURFING

THE SCIENCE OF SURFING

TYPES OF BREAKS

RIP CURRENTS

Point break - A point break refers to the place where waves hit a point of land or rocks jutting out from the coastline.

A rip current is a strong channel of water flowing seaward from near the shore, typically through the surf line.

Beach break - A beach break takes place where waves break on a sandy seabed.

When wind and waves push water toward the shore, that water is often forced sideways by the oncoming waves. This water streams along the shoreline until it finds an exit back to the sea or open lake water.

Reef break - A reef break happens when a wave breaks over a coral reef or a rocky seabed.

WAVE SCIENCE As waves enter shallow water, they slow down, grow taller and change shape. At a depth of half its wave length, the rounded waves start to rise and their crests become shorter while their troughs lengthen. Although their frequency stays the same, the waves slow down and their overall wave length shortens. The ‘bumps’ gradually steepen and finally break in the surf when depth becomes less than 1.3 times their height.

ESCAPING A RIP CURRENT A swimmer caught in a rip current should not attempt to swim back to shore directly against the rip. This risks exhaustion and drowning. A rip does not pull a swimmer under water; it carries the swimmer away from the shore in a narrow channel of water.

The swimmer should remain calm and swim parallel to the shore until he or she is outside of the current.

TIDES Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun and the rotation of the Earth. Most coastal areas experience two high and two low tides per day. Each surf break will work differently depending on the height of the tide.

Learn the preferred tide for each break in order to get the best quality waves possible. Tide charts can be found at surf shops, on the Web, and as smartphone applications.

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BOARD BASICS

BODY, SURFBOARD, & WAVE POSITIONING BODY POSITIONING

ELEMENTS OF A SURFBOARD Rocker - the curvature from nose to tail Fin - maintains control and maneuverability Nose - front-end

Pearling vs. Stalling - In order to glide along the ocean surface with ease, one must lay their body on the surfboard in such a way that they are not too far forward causing the nose of the board to dive, or ‘pearl’, under the water.

On the contrary, if one positions themselves too far back on the board they will cause the tail to drag, or ‘stall’, making the paddling process far less efficient. Note that small adjustments can make big differences, so adjust the body in small increments to ensure best positioning.

Tail - back-end Rails - sides; use them to grip & hold on

CENTERED = GOOD

STALLING= BAD

Deck - top; where wax is applied

Streamlining the Body - It is vital to keep one’s body fully aligned on the surfboard, along the stringer, always being sure to keep one’s feet and legs on the board and not dragging along side of it.

Bottom - area that glides along water’s surface

SURFBOARD POSITIONING

Stringer - horizontal center; holds board together Fin Box - where fin is attached Leash Plug - where leash is secured ***IMPORTANT LEASH INFO*** The Rubber Band Effect - Being attached to one’s surfboard is NOT a ticket to let go! Not only can the board hit another surfer, but it is likely for it to rebound back and hit YOU! Try as best as possible to keep a physical connection with the surfboard. This will keep one informed of the whereabouts of the board and avoid any potential injuries to oneself or to others.

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PEARLING = BAD

Keep it Perpendicular - One of the most important things to remember is to always keep the board facing perpendicular to the waves. This allows the board to cut through the surf like a knife would. Allowing the board to turn parallel to the wave will most certainly flip it, potentially injuring oneself or others.

Momentum - The key to getting out over the surf and into the lineup, as well as to catch a wave, it is important to generate and maintain momentum with the board through one’s paddling technique. Hesitating or stopping the paddling process can hinder one from achieving the goal.

He Who Hesitates - Is bound to get into trouble! Always remember the surfer riding the wave has the right of way. That being said, DO NOT freeze when surfers are approaching while one is paddling out. By continuing forward, one is likely to pass the approaching surfer and prevent any hindrance to the wave’s shape.

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FUNDAMENTAL TRICKS OF THE TRADE GETTING THROUGH THE IMPACT ZONE PUSH UP (THROUGH THE SOUP) WAVE POSITIONING Hills vs. Cliffs - Waves build in intensity and size as they get closer to shore.

As a wave travels through outer, deeper waters, it resembles that of a hill merely a slope moving through the water. As it moves toward shore; however, it begins to crest up and resembles that of a cliff. When trying to catch a wave, one wants to be traveling toward shore with adequate momentum while the ‘hill’ is building into a ‘cliff.’ The hope is to catch the wave while it is just beginning to steepen into a ‘cliff.’ Keep an eye out for ‘hills’ approaching in the distance. Note that the type of break one is surfing will determine how early one must begin to paddle in order to catch the wave.

The Curl - The overall objective of surfing is to ride with the curl of the wave.

The curl is where the wave is folding over and traveling either left, right, or both. One can easily locate the curl by looking for the spot where the clean, blue part of the wave folds over and becomes white, turbulent water. The curl travels toward the shoulder - or the flat, rolling part of the wave. If one moves to far from the curl and onto the shoulder, speed will decrease and the wave will be likely lost.

Locate & Utilize - The key to situating oneself in the most optimum position on the wave is to locate the point at which the wave is curling and take off closest to it. Sometimes it is necessary to paddle in the opposite direction than one will be traveling on a wave in order to catch it. For instance, at righthand pointbreaks, if one is sitting on the shoulder, one would need to paddle left in order to catch it because one is situated too far from the curl.

Ride with, not against - Once the curl is located, take note of the direction that it is moving and shouldering off. Always choose to ride in the same direction with the curl, not into the turbulent whitewater. Remember: Waves are ever-dynamic and unpredictable. ALWAYS KEEP EYES ON THE OCEAN!!

When paddling outside, there may be whitewater that must be paddled through. This area is call the impact zone. The key to getting through the impact zone is to maintain momentum toward the wave. Keep the board perpendicular and paddle directly into the whitewater. Just as the wave approaches, do a quick push-up in order to allow the water go between the body and the board. It is natural to want to freeze when scared by an approaching whitewater wave. It is important to fight this feeling and continue on the course over the wave. If one keeps momentum the surfboard will go through the wave.

PUSH UP (THROUGH WAVE)

TURTLE (UNDER THE WAVE) Another way to getting through the impact zone is to flip the board onto its deck, with the rider holding tight underneath the board, somewhat close to the nose-end of the board. This technique is best used in larger surf when other methods are not enough. It is important that the rider keeps the board perpendicular to the wave, otherwise the wave will hit the board at an angle, ripping it out of grip, and possibly injuring one’s shoulders.

TURTLE (UNDER WAVE)

SEE-SAW (OVER THE SOUP) A popular method among longboarders is to use weight displacement to allow the surfboard to “see-saw” or “teeter totter” over the whitewater. This is done by sitting on the tail of the board so that the nose is fairly high in the air. As the wave approaches, just before impact with B the board, the rider should pulltheir weight up on the board so that it brings the nose of the surfboard back down. Since the wave is constantly moving, the board travels over the wave as the see-saw is performed.

SEE-SAW (OVER WAVE)

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MORE FUNDAMENTAL TRICKS OF THE TRADE

EVEN MORE FUNDAMENTAL TRICKS OF THE TRADE

FALLING IN FASHION

THE SEAMLESS STAND-UP

It is as important to know how to fall off one’s board in a safe way, as it is to pop up smoothly. Be aware of the ocean bottom characteristics (sandy, rocky, etc.), so that one can fall off the board without causing injury. Remember to treat rocky surf breaks as if they were the shallow end of a pool.

NEVER dive head first or jump feet first with the legs locked straight. Be as relaxed as possible, while protecting the face and head by using the hands and arms as a shield. When a fall happens, allow the water to be a cushion as best as possible, remembering to raise the arms out of the water before bringing up the head, because the location of the board is likely unknown and could be in mid air, aimed to injure.

To ensure a flawless pop-up once one has caught a wave, it is vital to use one fluid motion when going from laying prone on the surfboard to standing on it. DO NOT USE THE KNEES!!! The longer it takes to stand, the harder it will be. The best way is to use the arms to lift the body into a push-up, then step the front foot forward, while twisting the hips so that the feet are positioned parallel, along the stringer, to the surfboard.

PADDLING PROWESS Harness the full potential of one’s paddle by alternating the arms alongside the surfboard while making long, thorough strides. Be sure to keep one’s fingers closed and to completely finish the motion by digging deep and pulling one’s arms all the way back and then all the way forward to repeat the motion. As one progresses it will be discovered that fluctuating the speed at which one needs to paddle will change depending on the development, or lack thereof, of the approaching, soon to be breaking, wave. One can direct the paddling path by altering one’s paddle so that the arm of the direction one desires to go is circled underneath the surfboard. If one desires to turn right, one would circle with the right arm underneath the board.

MANEUVERABILITY As with the sit ‘n’ spin, in order to gain maneuverability while riding a wave, it is necessary to release the surface area of the surfboard out of the water.

After the initial stand-up, shift one’s weight from the middle of the surfboard to the back end of it, while also leaning in the direction one intends to travel.

KNOW YOUR SPOT Spend time learning one’s surroundings, both prior to and during one’s surf session. Paddle out when the sets of waves are at a minimum. When sitting in the lineup, use landmarks on the beach (i.e.- lifeguard tower, restrooms, etc.) to keep oneself in the appropriate position for catching waves.

ETIQUETTE • •

THE SIT ‘N’ SPIN While waiting out in the lineup for a wave, one can sit and straddle the surfboard as if riding horseback. A quick way to spin the board around and prepare to paddle for a wave is to position oneself more on the tail. By doing so, one releases a majority the board out of the water and allows it to be more maneuverable. Complete the sit ‘n’ spin by circulating one’s feet in the same direction that one desires to turn.

LEFT

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Give Respect to Get Respect.

Don’t be a SNAKE! A ‘snake’ takes off on a surfer who is already riding a wave.

Don’t be a WAVE HOG! Take turns and follow a rotation so all can ride waves!

Never overestimate one’s own ability. If conditions appear arduous, they probably are and one should refrain from paddling out.

Treat every lineup as if one is driving on the freeway. Be acutely aware of one’s surroundings. Cutting people off is as dangerous on wheels as it is on a surfboard!

RIGHT

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