The Lodger Issue 1 2017

ISSUE 1

THE

Sporting Lodge

LODGER

2017

THESPORTINGLODGE.CO.UK

FANTASTIC ARCTIC FOX If you’re looking for a piece of iconic outerwear to keep you comfortable in 2017, you could do a lot worse than turn your attention to Fjallraven.

MIGHT AS WELL HAVE THE BEST

BEST OF THE BUNCH

A look at the legendary American outdoor brand that was born out of the boom of the Gold Rush

Find out how this classic British bag brand made its way from Halesowen to Hollywood

FROM ROYALTY TO RATTLESNAKES Read the intriguing stories behind three of this season’s finest boot brands

THANKS for welcoming the first ever Lodger into your home, hopefully we’ll become a well loved member of the family rather than annoying you by squeezing the wrong end of the toothpaste tube or putting empty bottles of milk back in the fridge. The reason for this brand new seasonal publication is to allow us to showcase the provenance and passion behind the fantastic brands that we are so proud to stock here at the Sporting Lodge

In this issue we’ll tell you all about three of best boot brands in the world, why American brand Filson think you deserve only the best, how Klattermusen clothing fares when worn all the way up a Swedish mountain, what makes Fjallraven so brilliant as well as an introduction to British institutions Brady and Barbour.

2017

GETTING THE BOOT The foundation for any outfit

should always start with your footwear whether heading out for

a day in the field or braving the big city, your feet should come

first. When the mercury plummets and the cold nights draw in, a

beautifully made pair of boots should be your first consideration if you’re aiming to look good whilst

staying warm and dry. So here at

the Lodger we’ve decided to focus

on three of our favourite brands who are really going places when it

comes to finding three of the best boots there are.

thesportinglodge.co.uk

FIT FOR A LADY In the heart of Galway on

aristocrats as lovers, Jeanne

Ireland’s breath-takingly

eventually married Comte

beautiful West coast lies the

Guillaume du Barry in 1768

small town of Ballinasloe.

and thus becoming Madame

Located at a crossing point

du Barry. In the same year

of the river Suck the town

she attracted the attention of

has been meeting place

Louis XV whilst on an errand

since ancient times and

at the palace and became one

is also home to one of the

of France’s most well-known

oldest horse fairs in Europe.

courtesans as well as Louis’s

It was in this bucolic setting

mistress.

that the company Dubarry

was established in 1937 to

Aside from French aristocracy

providee local employment

further inspiration for Dubarry

for the growing population. In

came from the wild West

those early days the company

coast of Ireland and Galway’s

drew on the expertise of the

impressive sailing heritage

hard working craftsmen

as well as the magnificent

and women to design and

countryside surrounding

manufacture fine leather

them. Nearly 80 years on

shoes,

a

the company’s continued

reputation that would spread

success has seen them expand

far and wide.

their footwear range as well

gaining

them

as incorporating premium The name Dubarry was

performance clothing and

chosen by the owners as they

accessories into the brand.

were seeking to differentiate

They’ve also spread their

themselves from other Irish

wings further afield to create

brands as well as wanting

an international sourcing

to introduce a continental

network to provide them

European flavour to their

with the highest standards,

new enterprise. The source of

materials and designs for each

inspiration being one Jeanne

of their products.

Been was born in Lorraine,

illegitimate

Dubarry of Ireland’s most

daughter of Anne Becu, a

popular ladies boot ‘the

woman of enticing beauty,

Galway’ is a classic example

who despite her humble

of how their expertise is used

beginnings as a seamstress saw

to perfectly merge together

her become a well respected

luxury with high performance

and highly privileged member

functionality. Creating a pair

of the palace of Versailles’s

of finely crafted boots that are

decadent entourage during

built to last and will look at

18th century. Using her

home when worn in both town

striking looks to take several

and country.

France,

the

2017

TH IS CHARMOT MAN On a rainy day in Cherbourg

of master craftsmen from

nearly 90 years ago bootmaker

Normandy travelling over

Claude Chamot sat down with

to ensure the same high

his customers - a group of

Charmot standards were

hardworking farmers, hunters

upheld. During this time the

and fishermen to get some

brand name altered slightly

feedback on his footwear.

with Charmot changing to Le

It wasn’t the most positive

Chameau the French word for

meeting with their main gripe

camel, to reflect their new

being that his boots just weren’t

African-based premises.

comfortable or durable enough

to meet the rigorous demands

Today Le Chameau remains

of their strenuous work.

a company who continue to

set the industry standard

With

their

complaints

ringing in his ears Claude

was determined to create a

boot that would survive the onslaught of hard manual

work both at sea and on land.

Using natural rubber to make his prototypes he asked friends and family to test them out,

refining as he went along he received unanimously positive

feedback on the comfortable fit of the boots and their

improved strength.

Word soon spread about

for quality and innovation

on a global scale and whose master craftsmen still have to

undertake an intensive nine months of training. Though

their style-conscious boots

are incredibly popular in the highly demanding worlds of

outdoor professionals, sporting

connoisseurs and other rural

pursuits, all their footwear is still covered by a two-year warranty.

Though something of an

Claude’s pioneering boots

institution in France Le

across the whole of France

Chameau is also a well respected

and by 1939 he’d set up his

choice of boot for those of us

own workshop in Normandy

in Britain who take looking

in order to meet demands.

good and feeling comfortable

Now working on a larger scale

seriously whilst appreciating

Claude personally ensured

their handcrafted quality and

his craftsmen maintained

range of personalised fits.

the exceptional levels of high

With the Duke and Duchess

quality that his reputation

of Cambridge and even David

had been built on. Ten years

Beckham having been spotted

later the business expanded

recently enjoying the outdoors

further by opening a factory

and looking tres chic in their Le

in Casablanca, with a team

Chameau wellingtons.

thesportinglodge.co.uk

2017

thesportinglodge.co.uk

#MUCKIN ABOUT For the final section in our trinity

very comfortable fit as well as

the old saying of‘Where there’s

providing greater flexibility

muck there’s brass’ should be

and protection thanks to the

altered to ‘Where there’s Muck

exterior layer of rubber and

there’s class’ when describing

tough outsole. Muckology

the brilliant boot-smiths at the

also ensures that feet will

Original Muck Boot company.

stay incredibly warm, with

Something of a new boot

some graded to cope with

on the block the Muck story

temperatures as low as -40

begins back in 1999 when the

degrees! Which are exactly

company set out to make a more

the type of properties the

comfortable type of waterproof

Muck boot customer requires

boot for use in messy and tough

for walking dogs in the rain,

conditions. Despite still being a

standing in deep rivers waiting

relatively young brand they now

for fish to bite, attending day

have over 60 styles of footwear

long shoots in warmth and

all designed to keep the wearer

comfort as well as attending

warm, dry and comfortable in

to stables in the early hours

the harshest conditions and

of the morning.

able to get on with their day

whatever the environment

Muckology also includes

throws at them.

some other rather interesting additional properties that

Aside from their stylish

have been incorporated into

good looks these upmarket

their stylish wellingtons. For

wellingtons also stand out from

example, believe it or not a

the crowd thanks to something

number of Muck’s US products

termed

have actually been ‘balloon

‘muckology’. That may sound

tested’ on rattlesnakes in order

like an album by Prince, but

to avoid any nasty surprises

actually refers to the myriad of

whilst wading through snake

useful features and technical

country. Whilst some also

materials that go into their

have scent masking properties

super functional footwear.

that will allow you to stalk

Muck boots are constructed

your target safe from the fear

using a full neoprene sock

of being sniffed out by your

over which the rubber is then

prey. With their classic good

overlaid ensuring that they

looks, ability to stay cool and

So there you have it, who would have thought that the stories

are 100% waterproof and

dry (like a Martini) alongside

behind three of the world’s finest boot brands would include

breathable unlike traditional

a pretty much indestructible

Moroccan camels, royal mistresses and being bitten by

rubber wellies. With the foot

construction, Muck boots

rattlesnakes?! Whether you’re up in the saddle, down in the

being surrounded by neoprene

really are like the James Bond

city or somewhere in between, stay warm and stylish in a pair

this method also makes for a

of the boot world.

of boots from the Sporting Lodge.

the

brand have

2017

WAX LYRICAL

thesportinglodge.co.uk

J.Barbour and Sons Ltd was founded by Scottish native John Barbour in South Shields, England in 1894. He began by supplying oilskins and other garments to protect the growing community of sailors, fishermen and dockers from the worst of the North Sea weather.

In 1908, John’s son, Malcolm Barbour introduced a mail order catalogue which attracted orders from far and wide. Using a mail order catalogue helped cement Barbour as the go-to guys for reliable outdoor clothing. By 1917,75% of their orders were made via the mail order catalogue.

Fast forward to the modern era and in 2004, Barbour began to work with Lord James Percy in the design and marketing of its flagship shooting clothing range the Northumberland range.

Technically advanced and highly acclaimed in 2005, the Northumberland Range won the Shooting Industry Award for best clothing product, and more recently, the Linhope 3-in-i won the Shooting Industry Award for best clothing product, 2008.

More recently James was involved, alongside Vice Chairman Helen Barbour, in designing the new Barbour Sporting collection launched for Autumn Winter 2011.

In 2016, Barbour won the New Ladies Shooting Product at the Shooting Industry Awards for their Carter Wool jacket.

There are now over 5,000 products across the two seasons, and the collections now cater for men, ladies, children and dogs. Broadening out from its countrywear roots, today the heritage and lifestyle clothing brand produces clothing that is designed for a full lifestyle whether it’s in the city or country. As well as jackets and coats, the Barbour wardrobe includes trousers, shirts, socks, knitwear and a range of accessories.

Nevertheless, in whichever area the company now operates, it remains true to its core values as a family business which espouses the unique values of the British Countryside and brings the qualities of wit, grit and glamour to its beautifully functional clothing.

Barbour

All images © Barbour

yBARBOURS o£ SOUTH SHIELDS

2017

THE FANTASTIC ARCTIC FOX OUTERWEAR

FJALLRAVEN KANKEN

If you’re looking for a piece of iconic outerwear to keep you comfortable in the depths of British winter, you could do a lot worse than turn your attention to Fjallraven. Having cemented their reputation as an authority on design via their work in the 1960s, the modern day Fjallraven is a progressive brand with that same desire to make things better at its heart.

Founded in i960, Fjallraven is a veteran at coping with the outdoors. The brand began like many of its

counterparts, with problem­

solving at its heart. That simple backpack created by Ake Nordin all those years ago has been joined by a full

range of serious outdoor clothing and accessories, and while jackets like the

Greenland have become

iconic, its that original bag which lends its DNA to the brand in the current era.

When things are ubiquitous,

The same can be said for Fjallraven in general, in fact the only thing we can’t quite

get our heads around is how

it’s usually for a reason.

to pronounce it correctly,

The Kanken bag enjoys

which is fitting for a brand

worldwide

born in Ornskoldsvik.

popularity,

perhaps due to having nailed the middle ground between

Try saying that with a mouth­

function and style. Like any good design, whether

ful of Kendal Mint cake!

it be a car or an item of furniture, the Kanken has been gently evolved with the times, and there are now variations which include

laptop compartments and other useful additions.

The Kanken also comes in a number of subtle styles,

from

the

well

known bright colours to a more understated, grown up version which utilises leather and more muted colours. There’s something

for everyone. It’s a clear example of form following function and looking great

as a by product. Everything

about the Kanken is clear, considered and concise.

Whether it’s a monster of a padded down jacket, such as the all-conquering Barents Parka, something with a distinct military feel like the Singi Trekking Parka, or a utlitarian, sporty jacket like the Skogso, Fjallraven is a brand you can trust to get the job done with minimum fuss. Outdoor enthusiasts of both genders are catered for too, and in the Raven winter jacket there’s an

ideal example of Fjallraven’S feminine side. Like their fellow countrymen Ikea and Volvo, the emphasis is on creating something unfussy and eminently usable.

All elemental eventualities are covered by Fjallraven.

TROUSERS Widely acknowledged by those in the know as the best on the market, the selection of legwear offered

by Fjallraven is popular for a reason. Outdoor icon Ray Mears will more-oftenthan-not be seen sporting a pair whether he’s deep in the thick of the jungle or trekking across a barren desert wasteland.

Winning numerous awards for design and sustainability, the ethos of the Fjallraven is perhaps most evident in their trousers.

thesportinglodge.co.uk

2017

KLATTERMUSEN Good friends of the Sporting Lodge and editors of popular menswear publication ‘Proper Magazine’ Mark Smith and Neil Summers recently took off for an expedition up Areskutan mountain in central Sweden. Both were kitted out in entirely in clothing from Klattermusen, whose HQ happens to lie at the bottom of this imposing mountain. Though already big fans of Klattermusen the lads wanted to see whether the products performed as well as they looked by testing them out in their natural habitat. Neil picks up the rest of the story from here: Having worn Klattermusen throughout the harsh environment of a Mancunian winter with absolutely no problems I was pretty sure that it would also be fit for purpose whilst hiking up a big Swedish mountain. Though with the escalators at Piccadilly train station being the furthest ascent I’d achieved so far there was no way of genuinely knowing if it would perform just as well ‘in the field’.

After being kitted out with a backpack, a tent, three different jackets and a bag of cinnamon buns at Klattermusen HQ we started the ascent in bright afternoon sunshine and were grateful for the eventual arrival of some cloud cover after a couple of hours. At this point we dived into our backpacks and dug out our lightweight jackets just in time for

some light rainfall before continuing on our quest passing only a lone hiker and a fell runner along the way. By around 7pm we decided to pitch up and make camp on top of a neighbouring mountain

whose peak jutted out from the side of Areskutan which, though easy to get to provided little in the way of a smooth surfaces to sleep on. By this time the temperature had dropped somewhat and with us sitting around preparing and eating food it was time to layer up with down jackets and hats enabling us to as relax and took in the astounding views.

Despite the odd slip on some rubble and the surprise appearance of some

snow we eventually made it to the top of Areskutan to be treated to an

unbelievable panoramic view and a rousing congratulatory speech from

our guide on how we had completed a ‘black route’ that few local people

ever attempt.

Whilst the trip provided some lifelong

memories it also proved even city­ slickers can make it up a mountain

with the right gear. Klattermusen

The next morning after a windbattered night’s sleep and filling up our flasks from a small lake we set out to conquer the rest of the mountain where the terrain became on the whole rockier and gradually more vertical.

works perfectly. Though now I’ve

proved I can reach the peak it, I’m going to retire from my successful if

short-lived mountaineering career, however I’ll continue to brave the fierce Mancunian winters in Klattermusen.

thesportinglodge.co.uk

2017

BERETTA - EXEMPLARY LIFESTYLE CLOTHING

thesportinglodge.co.uk

The famous name, Beretta, has been

manufacturing the finest quality guns since the sixteenth century, a feat which lists them as one of the oldest manufacturing

companies in the world.

Historical research has shown that in 1526,

Mastro Bartolomeo Beretta of Gardone

received 296 ducats as payment for 185

arquebus barrels sold to the Arsenal of Venice.

As the Beretta name became known for

uncompromising quality, design, materials,

construction and performance, word spread beyond the Italian borders, establishing a lasting tradition that has carried on through

fifteen generations of the Beretta family.

2017

THE BRADY BUNCH The Brady brothers John and Albert started their company in Birmingham in 1887 having begun making leather goods in the 1870s.

While they eventually made their name in fishing and game bags, it was their leather gun cases which first announced them to the outdoor community.

the entire business suffered serious upheaval.

Ernest moved production to his home where he worked alongside a stitcher and machinist.

Eventually, heavy bombing of the region meant another relocation was necessary and roots were put down in Halesowen in the Black Country.

John’s son, Ernest and Albert’s son, Leonard both joined Brady Brothers later and in 1928 Ernest took over the business.

As Brady sought to re-establish itself as the leading bag maker in post-war Britain, Ernest took the unusual step of building a caravan and taking his family on a road trip which led to London. While there he took his products into as many retailers as he could find and took orders which would prove to be a tremendous boon for the business.

The business grew from strength to strength under Ernest’s tutelage and in the 1930’s Ernest and Leonard moved to larger premises in Shadwell Street in the heart of Birmingham’s gun quarter. It was there Ernest first designed and personally made a range of fishing bags all named after English rivers. These bags came to personify the brand and gave them a strong identity on which to foster a prosperous future.

Brady gun cases became another mainstay of the brand and were coveted by the great and good, from the Sultan of Oman to the Duke of Westminster.

In what would seem an unlikely turn of events, Leonard sought to make his name in Hollywood and perhaps unsurprisingly his keen craftsmanship helped him establish himself as a prop maker in the film industry.

In the middle part of 20th century, the war effort meant the focus of Brady shifted and

With a fine tradition for using the best materials, including canvas and leather, Brady continue to be based just north of Birmingham in Walsall. Their values hold true and when many brands are transplanting their production overseas, Brady remains steadfast in its belief in British manufacturing. While the family took a step back in the 1990s, they kept the same ethos key to the future of Brady by passing the company into expert hands, based in the same region.

The Sporting Lodge have long been proud members of the Brady Bunch, having had a working relationship with the brand for more than half a century. Long may that continue.

If they keep making great bags there’s no reason why not.

thesportinglodge.co.uk

THEIR VALUES HOLD TRUE AND WHEN

MANY BRANDS ARE

TRANSPLANTING THEIR PRODUCTION

OVERSEAS, BRADY REMAINS STEADFAST IN ITS BELIEF IN BRITISH

MANUFACTURING.

2017

MIGHT AS WELL HAVE THE BEST Filson may have been around for several lifetimes, but it’s a new introduction for us here at the Sporting Lodge.

Clinton C. Filson spent the early part of his working life as a railroad conductor, before moving to Seattle, Washington in the 1890s.

It was here where the real roots of Filson began, when Clinton set up a small loggers outfitting store. In a scene which was mirrored in many parts of the U.S in this era, Filson made its name meeting the needs of prospectors passing through Seattle on their way to the Klondike Gold Rush. The brand eventually got itself on a solid footing in 1897 and although the gold rush was relatively short-lived, it cemented the brand as a reliable supplier of clothing and accessories which would stand the test of time. After the gold rush ended around 1899, Filson shifted to providing gear for outdoor oriented activities and occupations including hunting, fishing and logging.

In the modern day, Filson continues to enjoy an unrivalled reputation in its field. In the early 90s, its heritage in canvas luggage was revived, while more recently in 2010 it fittingly partnered up with another brand born of the gold rush to create Levi’s Workwear by Filson. While the brand may be rooted in 19th century values in some ways, it’s very much a modern entity.

They keep things close to home by manufacturing in the U.S more often than not. Indeed, some of their materials are source in the United Kingdom, too.

With slogans such as ‘Unfailing Goods’ and ‘Built to Last’ running through their veins, Filson have a unique confidence in the gear they make. It’s perhaps their best known tagline which sums them up most accurately though - “Filson - Might as well have the best”.

“The goods we quote must not be confounded with the cheap and vastly inferior grade with which the market is over-run. Such goods are not only useless for the purpose for which they are intended, but the person wearing them would be better off without them.”

- Clinton C. Filson, 1914 catalogue

thesportinglodge.co.uk

WHAT WORKED THEN, STILL WORKS NOW Over the years, Filson’s philosophy has never changed: Make sure it’s the absolute best. Clinton Filson spent a lot of time talking to his customers and refining his designs to their specifications. So it’s not surprising that the items that worked then still work today, over too years later.

Comfort, protection and durability never go out of style.

ISSUE 1

the Lodger 2017

THESPORTINGLODGE.CO.UK

CROSSWORD Use the cryptic clues to complete our word puzzle, which just like the Sporting Lodge is filled with the best brand-names in the world.

ACROSS: 3 4 8

10 12

13 14 16 18 19 20

French camel (2,7) Dirty, four-letter word (4) Where you’d go to get your hair-cut or maybe buy some wax (7) A sporting goods bunch (5) Surname of actor who definitely wasn’t the messiah (7) What a fish does best (5) Scandinavian snow fox (10) Sounds (a bit) like they’re open all hours (8) French bird of prey (5) Conjuring cobblers (8) An impressive cannon of work that dates back to the 16th century (7)

DOWN Comparable cameras (5) Patsy’s name back when she was a spy (6) Swedish mouse that’s going place (12) A place to live on the Anglo-Scottish border (5,2,7) 7 Discreet, decorated pale War hero (7,5,2) 9 Plenty of Mr Manilow’s fans would like to... (7) 11 Make sure your male child has had enough to eat (6) 15 German messer-smiths (5)

1 2 5 6

See thesportinglodge.co.uk for answers

orn in 1930, George MacFarlaine was raised in India in the days of the

learned to speak fluent Hindi and Urdu and write Sanskrit and travelled by ocean liner to study engineering in Scotland.

After qualifying in engineering, India Raj. When he was just six years beckoned once again. On his return to old, George was accompanying his Bombay, George bought his first gun elders on shooting forays to the a Westley Richards which was one of inland marshes and on hunting four belonging to an Indian Maharajah.

B

guns including rare multi-barrelled shotguns in particular, the three-barrel single trigger ejector shotgun. We have also sourced the finest English and continental sporting guns, clothing and accessories for sports men and women, industrialists and royalty throughout the world.

trips to the jungles for big game hunting in Northern India. He

attended Sherwood College, a boarding school in the foothills of

the Himalayas where he excelled

in science, art and boxing.

When he was 18 years old he left the tropical climes of India where he had

In the 1960s George settled with his family in the beautiful English Lake District where MacFarlaine Sports (later rebranded to The Sporting Lodge) was established as a bespoke gun making business and supplier of the finest shooting and sporting accessories. Using the finest craftsmen and materials, the family created a range of sporting

Sadly, George died in 2000 leaving a great collection of fine rare vintage shotguns and one of the largest collection of multi-barrelled guns in the world.

Advances in technology now allow us to offer our knowledge, products and service to a larger audience worldwide.

The Sporting Lodge is our online shop

window which continues to supply our customers with the same attention to detail. We have been working with many of our suppliers for many years and stock products we believe offer excellent value for money.

BARBOUR / BERETTA / BOKER / BRADY / LE CHAMEAU / CHAPMAN / DUBARRY / ENGLISH UTOPIA / FAILSWORTH / FILSON /

FJALLRAVEN / GRENFELL / HOUSE OF CHEVIOT / JAMES PURDEY / KANKEN /

KLATTERMUSEN / MANASTASH / THE MUCK BOOT COMPANY /

MUSTO / PERAZZI / PRIVATE

WHITE VC / TRICKER’S