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Brown Girls Do It Too
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A Small Town Northern Tale
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KINDER
Cecilia Gentili’s Red Ink
I Dream in Colour
I AM - One of many, many of One
Untapped Award Winners
Rosamund West Editor-in-Chief
Anahit Behrooz Events Editor, Books Editor
Dalila D'Amico Art Director, Production Manager
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Peter Simpson Deputy Editor, Food & Drink Editor
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The Edinburgh Guide is sponsored by Edinburgh Trams
Zhang Liang is a Glasgow/Beijing based illustrator, TMNT collector, and pop culture junkie. A protégé of British puppet master John M. Blundall, his playful, bold visuals pull from horror flicks, comics, and 80s vintage vibes. Cartoons and old television shows fuel his brain. @sirzhangliang zhangliangray.com
TRAMCRAWL!
Extending from Edinburgh Airport all the way to Newhaven waterfront, Edinburgh Trams offer a quick and environmentally friendly way to explore the city from end to end. They’ve recently introduced Tap On, Tap Off, meaning you can use the same contactless card or device for unlimited travel on Trams and Lothian Buses with a £5 Adult Day cap within the city zone (excluding the airport).
EDINBURGH AIRPORT
INGLISTON PARK & RIDE
EDINBURGH GATEWAY
GYLE CENTRE
EDINBURGH PARK STATION
EDINBURGH PARK CENTRAL
INGLISTON PARK & RIDE Leave the car and hop on the tram - with 1000 free parking spaces you can avoid the headache of nding a space in a busy city centre. This is also the stop to reach the Royal Highland Centre, which this summer hosts the Summer Sessions featuring Chappell Roan and Sam Fender.
GOGARBURN Site of the Royal Bank of Scotland headquarters, surely part of the inspiration for Edinburgh International Festival’s Brian Cox-starring Scottish banking satire Make it Happen.
EDINBURGH GATEWAY Connects with train lines running to the east of Scotland.
GYLE CENTRE Year round it’s an edge of town shopping centre, home to such high street favourites as M&S and Boots. But this summer the Gyle is getting in on the festivals action, hosting Mirage Spiegeltent, a brand new Fringe venue all the way from Italy.
EDINBURGH PARK CENTRAL Jump o to sample some of the city’s nest pastries with a co ee (or something stronger) from restaurant, bar and bakery Patina, a light and airy space with Scandi-in uenced design.
BALGREEN Kids will love Edinburgh’s best playpark, Saughton, with a skatepark for the older ones on skates or scooters. Take a walk through the beautiful rose garden, gaze upon the bandstand. The park is on the Water of Leith route so if you fancy a one way walk or a bike ride from Leith, you can hop on the tram for the return journey.
MURRAYFIELD STADIUM Have you heard Oasis are playing Edinburgh this summer? This is the stop for that! It’s also the place for AC/DC on 21 August, and home to Scottish rugby - and Edinburgh’s ice hockey rink - year round.
PICARDY PLACE
HAYMARKET PRINCES STEET ST ANDREW SQUARE
HAYMARKET The centre starts here! Hop o and explore the vibrant Dalry Road, home to some of the city’s nest cuisine from around the world.
WEST END Fancy a drink? Head north to picturesque William St and sample the taps of the atmospheric Teuchters. Go south and you’ll come to Lothian Road, home of the Usher Hall, Traverse and Lyceum Theatres and the newly reopened Filmhouse.
PRINCES ST The heart of the city, and gateway to the Edinburgh Festivals. From here, you can visit the National Galleries, then walk up the Mound to explore the medieval streets of the Old Town. See the street performers on the Royal Mile then venture deeper for Fringe hubs.
ST ANDREW SQUARE This stop is surrounded by historic boozers, including the Victorian splendour of Cafe Royal and Guildford Arms, the well-preserved Edwardian environs of The Abbotsford and the cabaret vibes of the Voodoo Rooms, which hosts a programme of evening gigs.
PICARDY PLACE Stop here for family-friendly dining at Edinburgh Street Food or delve into the city’s galleria shopping centre the St James Quarter.
BALFOUR STREET
FOOT OF THE WALK
THE SHORE
PORT OF LEITH
NEWHAVEN
BALGREEN
SAUGHTON
MURRAYFIELD STADIUM WEST END
MCDONALD ROAD
OCEAN TERMINAL NEWHAVEN
PORT OF LEITH
THE SHORE
FOOT OF THE WALK
BALFOUR STREET
MCDONALD ROAD
PICARDY PLACE
ST ANDREW SQUARE
MCDONALD ROAD Need to chill? Pop into the library for some quiet time.
BALFOUR ST Just past the Leith boundary, alight here to enjoy the lower stretch of Leith Walk. Pop into Leith Depot for a drink, some food or some live music. The Drill Hall has a community cafe and interesting events, so stick your head in to see what’s going on. You’ll nd some of the city’s best pizza at San Ciro’s.
FOOT OF THE WALK Pop into beloved local record store Good Vibes to browse some vinyl, then head next door to The False Widow for a delicious cocktail.
THE SHORE More pubs - take your pick from the (in)famous Port of Leith, cosy Nobles or head round the corner to visit the newly opened Finch with their tucked away beer garden. Walk along the Shore, admiring the colourful Nyhavnalike harbour buildings and pop into Custom Lane for a co ee and a browse of carefully curated Scottish design hub Bard.
PORT OF LEITH Boats, lots of boats.
OCEAN TERMINAL Head to the Port of Leith Distillery for a tour of their vertical whisky distillery. The bar and restaurant on site o ers incredible views, excellent food and drinks, immaculate vibes. Head in the other direction and you’ll nd local favourites Albys who serve up extremely big, reasonably hot sandwiches.
NEWHAVEN The nal stop! You’ll nd some of the city’s nest sh and chips in the Newhaven Fishmarket - take away to eat on the picturesque harbour side watching boats, shermen and maybe even the sunset. Pop into the Dreadnought for a pint and gaze upon their rainbow-painted Pride bridge before getting back on the tram and doing it all over again.
Families can also bene t from the Day Tripper, o ering unlimited tram travel for two adults and up to three children. Tickets can be purchased at edinburghticket.com
Scan the QR code to buy tram tickets online and save!
We asked our team for their favourite things to do as Edinburgh residents
EXPLORING THE BIKE PATHS
Former train lines have been adapted to create leafy tunnels providing traffic-free routes from central Edinburgh all the way to Colinton Dell and the Pentlands one way, and the beaches of Portobello and Cramond in the other.
BOWLING AT THE SHEEP HEID INN
A visit to the Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston is a must. Opened in 1360, it’s Scotland’s oldest pub, so it reeks of history. But even more impressive is its skittles alley out back. A kind of proto-ten pin bowling game, skittles is great fun, especially after some ales and a homemade pie.
TAKING VISITING PALS UP CALTON HILL
Good views for minimal effort, still in the city centre. At the top you’ll find Edinburgh’s Disgrace, the abandoned site of a misguided 19th century attempt to replicate the Parthenon in Scotland, and Collective gallery, home to a year-round exhibitions programme with an emergent talent focus.
STROLLING THROUGH THE HERMITAGE OF BRAID
To the south of the city centre, the Hermitage of Braid is an actual forest, filled with cute do os, foraging opportunities (wild garlic n blackberries, season dependent), a river and access to Blackford Hill which at least one person on the team believes to offer the finest views in the city.
Colinton Tunnel Bike Path
Bowling at the Sheep Heid
Calton Hill
Hermitage of Braid
Photo: Tom Parnell
COFFEE CRAWL
Edinburgh’s teeming with great independent coffee shops. Start at Cairngorm in the West End, go up Lothian Road to The Source, head to Beatnik over on Brougham St, cross the park to Cult on Buccleuch St, and by this point you’ll be doing laps of the Meadows for the rest of the afternoon.
GO TO THE BEACH
Genuine actual honest-to-goodness seaside is just a bus ride away – Portobello promenade is loaded with cafes and pubs, the high street has a great mix of shops and venues, and the sea is there. It’s right there!
BOOKSHOP CRAWL
Edinburgh has some of the best indie bookshops around – from big (Toppings) to radical (Lighthouse) to curated (Rare Birds) to everything in between – and equally great second-hand shops (Armchair, Tills, McNaughtan’s). Take a day and visit them all!
CATCH A FOLK SESSION
Head to Sandy Bell’s on Forrest Road and listen to some live folk music, soaking up the pub’s historic atmosphere and whisky. On Infirmary Street, The Royal Oak (named after the Jacobite symbol signifying allegiance to the Stuart monarchs) serves up proper old school folk sessions with local musicians, in the cosiest pub in Edinburgh.
Portobello
The Lighthouse Bookshop
Cairngorm Coffee
Photo: Rosamund West
Photo: Stephen Packwood
Photo: Rosamund West
Photo: Callum Deas
Photo: Jaime Prada
Image: courtesy of Cairngorm Coffee
VERTICAL CLUBBING
Thanks to the Old Town’s MC Escher-esque layout, many of Edinburgh’s best gig spaces appear to be directly on top of each other. Sneaky Pete’s is a 100-capacity sweatbox for clubs and gigs; Liquid Room is a bi er space for bi er bands, about a block away but somehow *above* Sneaky’s. La Belle Angele and The Mash House are both great, and connected by a set of staircases and slightly weird outdoor corridors. Hey, if nothing else, they’re all close together!
LOTHIAN ROAD
Edinburgh’s glittering West End! OK, it’s not Broadway, but the Lothian Road corridor is home to two of the city’s finest cinemas – the newly-reopened Filmhouse and the 111-year-old Cameo Picturehouse – plus the venerable Usher Hall with a wide mix of live music, The Lyceum theatre and the King’s Theatre, which reopens in spring 2026 after a major refurb.
SWIMMING POOLS
Edinburgh is home to some incredible public pools, from Victorian bathhouses with built-in saunas – Glenogle in Stockbridge, Dalry Swim Centre – to the A-listed 70s architecture of the Commonwealth Pool and even a Turkish Bath in Portobello. You can access them for as little as £6.75 – find out more at the Edinburgh Leisure site.
TRAM PUB CRAWL
It can’t just be a coincidence that the tram stops seem to line up perfectly with many of the best pubs in Edinburgh (think Teuchters Landing, Port O’ Leith, Victoria Bar, The Street). Start at Dreadnought in Newhaven and jump off and have a drink at as many stops as is responsible. If you’ve made it to the West End you’ve gone too far. If you’re at the airport, send for help.
Glenogle Swim Centre
Darkside @ La Belle Angele
Filmhouse
Dreadnought
Photo: Kim Traynor
Image: courtesy of Filmhouse
Photo: Ines Chapleo
CHARITY SHOP HUNTING
Edinburgh is the perfect city for giving up fast fashion, with an abundance of vintage and charity shops to meet all your eco fashionista needs. Each neighbourhood has their own particular vibe: head to Stockbridge and Morningside for cheap high-end and designer items, or the Southside and Leith for all the cool clothes the students get rid of at the end of every term.
MARKETS
There’s an abundance of markets –both indoor and outdoor – throughout Edinburgh. Head to Stockbridge Market on the weekend for handmade crafts and street food, Out of the Blue the last Saturday of the month for a full-to-the-brim flea market, or The Pitt out at Granton, where they have more street food as well as a mini market of arts and crafts every weekend.
BAKERIES
By this point, Lannan’s pastries are probably more famous than Edinburgh itself. Avoid the queues and head for in-house baked goodies at spots in town like The Palmerston, La Barrantine, Kvasa, Babyfaced Baker, The Bearded Baker, Pastry Section, Sicilian Pastry Shop, Tasty Buns and Kukina, or jump on the train to Musselburgh and sample the pastries and breads on offer at Company Bakery.
ALTERNATIVE OLD TOWN
Head to the Grassmarket and pick up a vintage item from Armstrong’s, before joining the queue at Mary’s Milk Bar for a delicious ice cream. Grab a macaroni pie from Piemaker, take in a local gig at Sneaky Pete’s and end the night in the haunted underground vaults of Banshee Labyrinth, a pint of Tennent’s in one hand, a shot of crème de menthe in the other.
The Palmerston Mary's Milk Bar
Charity shopping
Edinburgh Farmers Market
Photo: Laura Muraska-Ross
Photo: Cera
Photo: James Porteous
Photo: Indira Tjoko
Image: courtesy of Edinburgh Farmers Market
Edinburgh hosts one of the UK’s best food and drink scenes – here’s a little bit of everything, from holes-in-walls and one-room cafes to highend dining, via great ice creams and sandwiches the size of your head
Words: Peter Simpson
BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH
71 Steps 22 Rodney St
Run by the folk behind the Bearded Baker, 71 Steps is a lovely, calming space. Food-wise, the excellent bagels feature heavily, alongside great coffee and top-drawer sweet baking.
Edinburgh Larder
15 Blackfriars St; 54-66 Morninside Rd
Two great phrases to hear when you’re planning breakfast: ‘high quality’ and ‘all day’. The Larder has them both covered, with top-notch Scottish ingredients aplenty.
Hank’s
162 Fountainbridge
Mornings at Hank’s are a busy affair; inside you’ll find high-quality breakfast options, a great salad bar, and some very good baked potatoes.
Hula
103-105 West Bow & 94A Fountainbridge
Loads of foliage, in both print and in person, awaits at Hula’s two spots. The brunch options are great, the juices are delicious, and the decor is great.
Kvasa
101 Leith Walk
We like big buns, and we cannot lie. They don’t come much bi er or better than at Kvasa, the only place we can think of with a dedicated cinnamon bun loyalty card.
The Pantry
1 North West Circus Pl
If you’re making the IG pilgrimage to Stockbridge, or you’re just in the market for an extremely well-made breakfast with a bunch of options to suit everyone, The Pantry’s your pick.
Preacher’s
24-26 Lady Lawson St
Across the street from The Skinny
office, these folks have saved our bacon on multiple occasions. Freshlybaked rolls, homemade tattie scones, and great lunch options for later.
Roseleaf 23 Sandport Pl
Mismatched decor, a lovely water-adjacent location and cocktails served in teapots; if ‘vibes’ were an Olympic sport, the Roseleaf would definitely be among the medals.
Singapore Coffee House 5 Canonmills
Bringing kopitiam classics to Canonmills, Singapore Coffee House offers a real change of pace. Look out for their kaya (coconut jam) on toast.
Snax
118 Buccleuch St & 15-17 W Register St
A true Edinburgh icon, Snax is the place to go if you want a classic cafe breakfast. These guys have been kings of bacon and e country for years – long may they reign.
Image: courtesy of 71 Steps
71 Steps
LUNCH, TREATS AND FOOD ON THE GO
Africano Wrap Place
4 Chapel St
These guys know how to manage a queue; no-one has ever waited for one of these delicious, spicy, flavourpacked wraps for more than a few minutes.
Alby’s
8 Portland Pl & 94 Buccleuch St
Big Hot Sandwiches – fair play to Alby’s, they live up to their slogan. Head here for massive wedges of focaccia loaded up with exciting fillings and updated takes on classics.
Bánh Mì Brothers
141 West Port
A tiny spot turning out great sandwiches inspired by the Vietnamese classics, with regular specials and a lunch deal that puts certain big supermarkets across the street to shame.
Company Bakery
6 Station Rd, Musselburgh
One of Edinburgh’s very best
wholesale bakeries, you’ll find Company’s bread and pastries throughout town, but head to their cafe in Musselburgh for the full experience.
Edinburgh Street Food Leith St
ESF has it all – loads of food options, hundreds of seats inside and out, quick service via an order-at-seat system that actually works, and an enormous pink sign you literally can’t miss.
The Fishmarket
23A Pier Pl
Fish and chips don’t get much better than at the Fishmarket. It’s always busy, but the rewards are worth it; ride the tram all the way to the end and hop into the queue.
Greek Artisan Pastries
23 Bread St & 32-34 Portobello High St
These pastries are serious units. You could pave a road with these slabs of bougatsa. Hyperbole? No, the pastries at Greek Artisan Pastries really are that hefty, and delicious with it.
Ground Floor
125 Great Junction St
The new home of community radio station EHFM, Ground Floor is a micro-cafe with focaccia from Alby’s, great coffee, and a front row seat to the antics of the radio studio.
Harkness Pies
30B Raeburn Pl
Pie-lovers, brace for impact. Harkness’ range of pastries is incredible. Whether it’s a Pentlands walk or a day at the Fringe, one of their Scotch Pies will see you through.
Lannan
29-35 Hamilton Pl
The queues are legendary, but the rewards at Darcie Maher’s bakery are worth it. Brilliantly crisp pastry with mind-blowing lamination, and bags of imagination across the counter.
Lovecrumbs
155 West Port
The vibe – delightful. The coffee – delicious. The seating – surprisingly ample. Lovecrumbs is ideal for an Old Town pitstop, with a great selection of sweet treats and a few lunch options as well.
Mary’s Milk Bar
19 Grassmarket
Mary’s is so good that it’s crossed over from ‘foodie’s pick’ to ‘legit tourist attraction’. The ice cream is genuinely the best in the country, so check it out regardless of the weather.
Moo Pie
26 St Mary’s St
Moo Pie’s soft serve ice cream is amazingly smooth, their flavours are brilliant, and if you’re here in the winter their hot chocolate is unmissable.
Mootz General Store
62 Raeburn Pl
More big sandwiches – Mootz serve up enormous Italian-inspired pieces piled high with great ingredients.
The Original Mosque Kitchen & Cafe
50 Potterrow
A true icon of Edinburgh’s food scene, the outdoor seats behind the Central Mosque have seen thousands of folk pass through for delicious and still-astonishingly-cheap curries.
The Pitt
20 West Shore Rd
The original Edinburgh street food market, The Pitt has moved to the Granton waterfront with events, gigs and regular market-markets to go with a rolling selection of local food vendors.
Polentoni
38 Easter Rd
A superb deli amid a clutch of great independent spots on Easter Road, Polentoni is the place to load up for your picnic. Lovely sandwiches, brilliant sweet treats, and more.
Project Canelé
150 Dundas St
Head here for one of their eponymous French cakes – beautifully cra ly little lads with a soft custardy inner and caramalised outer.
Razzo Pizza Napolitana
59 Great Junction St and Edinburgh Street Food
In a crowded field of Edinburgh pizza, Razzo is right at the front. Their pizzas are classics of the Neopolitan style – puffy crusts, excellent sugo, a lovely soupy bit in the middle.
Sicilian Pastry Shop
14-16 Albert St
Whether you want a delicious cannoli, an arancini filled to the brim with ragu, or a full-sized birthday cake with your name on it, the Sicilian Pastry Shop has you covered. Leith legends, and rightly so.
Image: courtesy of Project Canelé
Project Canelé
SOTTO
We talk kebabs, countryside walks, realising your dreams and exploring your local area with James Clark, owner of the Stockbridge restaurant Sotto
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for you?
I opened Sotto in October 2024; that was a pretty seminal moment in my life and the realisation of a long-held dream. We were in the Michelin Guide before Christmas and that was probably the first moment I stopped to appreciate what the team had achieved. I also found out that I am going to be an uncle when I was visiting my sister in Australia in January, a very special moment, and Celtic won the league (highlights not necessarily in that order of importance).
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Start at the Gallery of Modern Art, wander through Dean Village and the Water of Leith into Stockbridge, have lunch at Sotto, then stroll along the high street browsing the bookshops, charity shops, delis and boutiques. A pint in the Baillie to finish – there’s a day out!
Favourite place to eat?
Edinburgh has blossomed so much in the last few years, and there are countless good places to eat now. But The Kebab Mahal on Nicolson Square is an eternal favourite, I’m not exa erating when I say I’ve probably eaten there
Sotto, 28 Deanhaugh St, Edinburgh, EH4 1LY
sottoedinburgh.com
500 times in my life, and it’s faultless every single time. My sister wrote an amazing ‘The Ten Commandments According to Peter Clark’ for my father’s funeral, and one of them was ‘Thou Shalt make time for a swift pint when going to pick up the Kebab Mahal.’
Favourite shop?
Valvona & Crolla, on Elm Row. Just the most amazing selection of Italian produce
and wine. My mum lives near Portobello so I quite often go on the way to see her, usually making a mess of the car eating an arancino from the shop on the way!
Why do you like living here?
I can be on the beach, up in the hills walking, out golfing in the country or in a busy city centre all within half an hour of my door!
Twelve Triangles
Locations across Edinburgh 12T offer up reliably great pastries and bread from their various spots across town – if you want more of a sitdown option, head to their Kitchen Table cafe on Easter Road.
DINNER TIME
Chennai’s Marina
59 Clerk St & 192 Dalry Rd
When Chennai’s Marina say ‘two chillies’, trust and believe them. The Sri Lankan restaurant bring the heat to their curries, along with mountains of flavour.
Chez Jules
109 Hanover St
This French institution in the New Town is the place to get a steak or moules frites and come away with a surprising amount left on the Monzo – their lunch deal is legendary.
Eleanore
30-31 Albert Pl
Turn things up a notch at Eleanore, where elegant, delicate presentation comes alongside flavours that will knock you off your feet if you aren’t ready for them.
Kampong Ah Lee
28 Clerk St
A brilliant no-frills Malaysian restaurant, ideal for dinner before a Fringe show or after a hike up Arthur’s Seat. Big flavours, speedy service and some absolutely brilliant roti.
Kim’s Mini Meals
5 Buccleuch St
Home-style Korean classics delivered with love, with the not-insignificant chance of a seat in a weird corner underneath a staircase.
Konj 15-17 Grindlay St
The much-loved Iranian cafe moved into plush new digs attached to the Lyceum earlier this year – head here for mezze-like plates, stews, rice dishes and delicious grilled meats.
Little Capo
18 Howe St
Self-described as ‘Italian-ish’, this New Town spot is a brilliantly cool spot in the New Town with a bumper bar and some extremely nice terracotta paintwork.
Montrose
1-7 Montrose Ter
The cute, atmospheric Montrose (from the team behind the Michelin-starred Timberyard) is a delightful and surprisingly laidback option if you want to get fancy, but not too fancy.
Muna’s Ethiopian Cuisine
8 Gillespie Pl
The eponymous Muna is an absolute whirlwind – catch her flying in and out of the kitchen with trays of delicious Ethiopian stews and curries, all on funky homemade injera.
Photo: Abi Radford
Montrose
Noodles Home
14a Nicolson St
A brilliant and surprisingly big noodle restaurant right in the heart of Fringeland, Noodles Home is the place to go for enormous bowls of handmade noodles in incredible broths.
Noto and Tipo
47a Thistle St; 110 Hanover St
A double header from Edinburgh’s own Stuart Ralston. Tipo is inspired by Italy, so head here for great pasta; Noto has a more varied menu, headlined by some outrageously buttery crab.
The Palmerston
1 Palmerston Pl
Excellent pastries in the morning, inventive and considered cooking in the afternoons and evenings, and a grand but not-too-grand setting whenever you arrive.
Paz Taqueria
64 Thistle St
Paz is ideal date night territory – moody lighting, great cocktails, lovely staff, and inventive tacos that will give you plenty to talk about.
Pomelo
27 Sciennes Rd
Firmly established in their new place in Sciennes, Pomelo offers up excellent modern Asian cooking. Their hand-pulled noodles are the stuff of legend.
Sabzi
162 Ferry Rd
This award-winning family-run spot on Ferry Road serves up brilliant and highly shareable Indian classics from a menu which changes weekly.
San Ciro’s
148 Leith Walk
Top-notch Neapolitan pizza delivered at high speed and with some real touches of flair; exciting flavour combos, energetic staff with a passion
for the craft, and it always smells incredible in here.
Skua
49 St Stephen St
We love it when fine dining chefs get a bit wild with it. Case in point: Skua, where top-drawer cooking leads to incredible fried chicken paired with excellent drinks.
Stockbridge Eating House
7 St Stephen St
Plenty of folk are playing the ‘classic bistro cooking’ card right now, but the Eating House does it particularly well. Head here for great flavours, lovely service and a homely vibe.
Taco Libre
3 Shandwick Pl & 85 Rose St
Chaos reigns at Taco Libre, with its bright lights and loud decor. The tacos are some of the very best around, with simple, authentic fillings and bags of flavour.
For more on Scotland’s food scene, pick up a free copy of GNAW, our dedicated food and drink magazine, at venues across the country
Photo:
James
Porteous
The Palmerston
THE PALMERSTON
James Snowdon from The Palmerston restaurant in the West End recommends great hills, excellent bars, and some cash-saving tips for the festival season
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for you?
I can barely remember what happened last week! The Palmerston was included in the NRA Top 100 Restaurants List for the third year in a row, so I would probably say that.
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Two of the best views in town are Calton Hill and Blackford Hill. These spots are great if you want to get a bit of breathing space from the festival, and the views are ten times better than queuing to get up Arthur’s Seat.
Favourite place to eat?
Ooft! So much to choose from! During the festival I’m going to get out of the city centre so I’m hitting up Fin & Grape – best seafood cooking in town with a solid wine list. Stu and the crew have created a proper neighbourhood restaurant which ticks all the boxes. Or Sabzi – proper hearty family-run Punjabi restaurant down on Ferry Road. The menu changes weekly, and they serve breakfast at the weekends; Stevie and his family have created something very special.
Favourite place to drink?
That’s hard! For pubs – you can’t beat a pint of Jarl at
Kay’s or sitting alfresco at Newbarns Taproom (especially on the last Sunday of the month during summer for some Big Dip action!). Or nip into the Ensign Ewart – the best whisky bar in town, bang on the tourist trap that is the Royal Mile! It’s worth wrestling your way through street acts and TikTok dances!
Bars: this city is full of some of the best around so I’ll give you three options. Post-work, you can’t beat Old Pal in the West End; if I’m venturing further than my doorstep, Hey Palu in Tollcross – amazing drinks and a top class team! If I’m heading down to Leith, it’s got to be
Nauticus, which is a vibe! Again, amazing drinks (solid whisky selection!) and the staff are a riot! Great if you want to escape the festival madness and explore Leith!
Do you have a festival survival tip?
Embrace it! It’s an amazing time of the year, the city is bouncing 24 hours a day for the month of August and there’s something for everyone! I always make the most of the 2-for-1 offers early in the Fringe allowing you to get to a lot of shows without breaking the bank.
Photo: Tina Leahy
Edinburgh is a great pub city. Whether you’re after a quiet pint or a chic cocktail joint, it has you covered. Its coffee game is on point, too. Here are some of our favourite places to get a drink
Words: Jamie Dunn
TRADITIONAL PUBS
Edinburgh spills over with great pubs that have stood the test of time. These are the old-school boozers that don’t go in for fancy cocktails or the latest fads, and instead offer a sturdy selection of beverages, simple pub fare and a wonderful atmosphere in which to while away an afternoon
Athletic Arms
1-3 Angle Park Ter
Better known as ‘the Di ers’, this Polwarth watering hole is much-loved by locals for its lively, welcoming atmosphere and its delicious hot pies.
Bennets Bar
8 Leven St
This Tollcross pub is a stunner. It’s retained many of its gorgeous Victorianera features – ornate mirrors, decorative tiles, carved wooden pillars – and boasts a massive malt lineup.
The Blue Blazer
2 Spittal St
This cosy two-room pub is close to perfection. The selection of beers and malts is great, but even better are the vibes.
The Bow Bar
80 West Bow
This Edinburgh institution offers an escape from the hubbub of the Old Town. Expect great pints, so many whisky options (over 300 single malts!), and a humble food menu of warming soups and pies.
Dreadnought
72 N Forth St
A fantastic community pub two minutes from the Newhaven tram stop, Dreadnought is a bright, airy space with great beers, a packed events calendar and an incredible welcome.
George IV Bar
54 George IV Bridge
This characterful pub in the Old Town offers ample space but still feels intimate. The wide drink options should keep everyone happy, and their chips are out of this world.
Malt & Hops
45 Shore
This wonderful pub down by the Shore feels like being invited into a friend’s front room. There’s a rotating selection of ales and craft beers on tap and friendly bar staff who are always happy to have a natter.
Teuchters Bar & Bunker
26 William St
This laid-back bar feels like someone dropped a country pub in the middle of Edinburgh’s West End. The beer selection is excellent, and the menu is heavy on traditional Scottish scran (we recommend the stovies). For more nautical vibes, check out sister venue Teuchters Landing near the Port of Leith.
Arms
Athletic Arms
St Vincent
11 St Vincent St
Tucked away on the boundary between Stockbridge and the New Town, this basement pub, dubbed ‘The Vinnie’ by locals, is a hidden gem. The bar is gorgeous and surprisingly roomy, with a strong selection of real ales, craft beers and wines.
MODERN BARS
These bars are newer on the block or have changed with the times, but they’re no less irresistible. If you’re looking for a fun spot to kick off a big night out, then these are the places for you.
The Blackbird 37-39 Leven St
This Bruntsfield favourite has atmosphere for days. The beers are well-curated, and the cocktail list is a mix of classics and more curious concoctions, while out back there’s a hidden beer garden that’s usually buzzing, whatever the weather.
The Devil’s Advocate 9 Advocate’s Cl
One of two great Old Town pubs situated halfway up one of the area’s
Escher-esque staircases (see also Halfway House, 24 Fleshmarket Cl).
The Devil’s Advocate’s chic decor is paired with an excellent food menu and a huge whisky shelf.
The False Widow
159 Constitution St
Formally Smoke & Mirrors, this cracking wee pub offers a welcoming mood, with its low lighting, intimate tables and dreamy vibe. It’s also an eco-friendly choice: described as ‘Leith’s first eco bar’, all its products are sustainable and ethically sourced.
Leith Depot
138-142 Leith Walk
There are many reasons to love Leith Depot: its busy live music schedule, its outstanding pub grub, its buzzy atmosphere, and the fact that it stood up to the property developers who wanted to tear down the block of shops around it. That block of shops is now thriving.
Paradise Palms
41 Lothian St
Imagine a gay disco on a neon-lit Caribbean island and you’re halfway to picturing the decor of Palms. Its excellent DJ lineup and regular cabaret nights make it a firm favourite.
Photo: Ines
Chapleo
Paradise Palms
DRINKS
Salt Horse
57-61 Blackfriars St
This is the pub for fans of boundary-pushing beers and craft ales. It’s got a tidy selection of cans and bottles from the UK’s best small breweries, and its eclectic selection of beers on tap are served by the schooner.
BREWERIES AND DISTILLERIES
For a small city, Edinburgh has an impressive bounty of great breweries and distilleries, with many of them selling their wares onsite or nearby. Here’s where to head if you wanna try the city’s great drinks at their source.
Bellfield Brewery
46 Stanley Pl
Tucked away in a residential corner of Abbeyhill, you’ll find this crackerjack beer garden and taproom. The beers brewed on-site are first-rate, and there’s a rotating roster of pop-up food vendors to keep you well fed as you try them all.
Lost in Leith
82 Commercial St
Lost in Leith is both a great pub and a fermentaria. Chief among the many things it has going for it is its full array of weird and wonderful beers from the Campervan Brewery. Or to sample the beers from the source, check out the Campervan Taproom on Jane Street.
Newbarns
13 Jane St
Newbarns feels like someone decided to build the perfect local pub in the middle of an industrial estate in Leith. It’s got darts, it’s got atmosphere to die for and lovely ales, lagers and stouts that were brewed next door.
Port of Leith Distillery
11 Whisky Quay
Fancy delicious drinks paired with panoramic views across the Firth of Forth? Then head to the gorgeous bar on the top floor of this nine-story distillery, which offers a sharp cocktail list and delicious small plates.
The Royal Dick
1 Summerhall
Within multi-arts venue Summerhall you’ll find two great drinks companies: Pickering’s Gin and Barney’s Beer. Both provide much of the stock of The Royal Dick (or simply ‘The Dick’ to locals), Summerhall’s pub, central hub and the place to be during the Fringe.
Wee Vault
7A W Maitland St
From the Vault City crew, this taproom and bottle shop near Haymarket is heaven for craft beer lovers. As the name su ests, it’s small, but with two dozen beers on tap at any one time, the choice is ample
Image: courtesy of Port of Leith
Port of Leith Distillery
With delicious street food from Cala Cala, Bellfeld Brewery, Knights Kitchen, Steam Bunny, Bia, Happy Dumplings, Taberu, Chulos, Seabuckthorn, Korean Munchies, Lazeez Street Food, Ceylon Cartel and Etto Panini Mortadella and more...
Vessel
73 Hanover St
Pilot has been brewing great beer down in Leith for over a decade now, and have recently opened this swell New Town bar for you to enjoy it in. As well as their own excellent beverages, they’ve a well-stocked bar filled with locally-sourced spirits and wines.
COCKTAIL AND WINE BARS
Edinburgh’s bar scene isn’t just about beer, of course. The city has become pretty renowned for its lively cocktail bars, and its selection of wine bars isn’t too shabby either. The below are perfect spots for date nights and for those of you who crave something more than beer.
Bramble
16A Queen St
You’ll find a menu of wildly inventive cocktails on offer at this low-lit, hugely atmospheric basement bar. Their terrific DJs keep the vibes on point.
Chancho
7 Bernard St
This is an excellent and relatively new
Leith-based cocktail bar that has a focus on agave. It’s from the team behind Edinburgh cocktail institution Hey Palu (see below), so you know to expect good things.
Dragonfly
52 West Port
Opulent gold-edged decor and some truly excellent cocktails mark out Dragonfly as a great spot if you’re looking to treat yourself.
Hey Palu
49 Bread St
A fantastic Italian cocktail bar that regularly makes ‘best bars in the country’ lists; expect expert bartenders, amazing nibbles and a lovely vibe.
Lucky Liquor Co.
39A Queen St
Another of Edinburgh’s tucked-away cocktail joints serving up an ever-changing menu of libations pushing the cocktail boundaries.
Nauticus
142 Duke St
This exceptionally good cocktail joint in Leith has a neat twist: every one of its tasty concoctions has taken its inspiration from the area’s rich history as a trading hub.
Nótt
13 Crighton Pl
This chic wine bar in Leith has a deli counter specialising in cheeses, meats and homemade Turkish delights to pair with your tipple.
Old Pal
28 West Maitland St
A relatively recent but welcome addition to Edinburgh’s cocktail scene, Old Pal offers a stellar drinks selection, friendly staff and a creative food menu. The Old Pal Croque – a decadent twist on a croque madame – will knock your socks off.
Image: courtesy of Lucky Liquor Co.
Lucky Liquor Co.
Smith & Gertrude
26 Hamilton Pl
This cosy neighbourhood wine bar in Stockbridge serves up delicious cheese plates to accompany your wine while vinyl crackles on the record player.
Spry
1 Haddington Pl
Stripped back, monochrome and minimalist, Spry offers an extensive menu of natural wines and delicious small plate options.
COFFEE, TEA AND JUICE
Maybe it’s a caffeine hit or a vitamin boost you’re after. Below are our favourite coffee shops and juice joints in town.
Artisan Roast
72-74 Leith Walk
An Edinburgh institution, you’ll find several Artisan Roasts across the city, and it goes without saying, the coffee is ace at all of them. The Leith shop is particularly good: with plenty of space, it hosts regular spoken-word and comedy events.
Bing Tea
37 W Nicolson St
This tea shop is cute as a button. It serves up the classic milk tea flavours – Thai, Taro, Matcha – alongside fruity numbers and original concoctions like the popular Flaming Tiger and White Rabbit.
Cairngorm Coffee
1 Melville Pl
A bright corner cafe serving killer toasties and knockout coffee from their top-notch roastery.
Cult Espresso
104 Buccleuch St
In a converted alleyway, Cult showcases an evolving range of speciality coffee from their own roastery and beyond.
Fortitude Coffee
4 Abbey Mount, 66 Hamilton Pl and 72 Newington Rd
Fortitude roast some of Edinburgh’s very best coffee, their venues are staffed by proper coffee heads, and their sea salt and hazelnut caramel shortbread is one of the very best things you can eat in the city.
Hula Juice Bar
103-105 West Bow & 94A
Fountainbridge
If juices and smoothies are more your bag, get yourself to Hula. Even on the gloomiest Edinburgh day, its vibrant beverages like Sunshine in a Cup or the Blue Hawaiian will put a spring in your step.
Lovecrumbs
155 West Port
Gorgeous cafe with great homemade cakes and pastries, and adorably quirky decor.
The Source
4 Spittal St
Your favourite coffee shop’s favourite coffee shop. The Source is the place to go for unusual and exciting single-origin coffees from around the world.
Williams & Johnson
1 Customs Wharf
It’s all sleek concrete and streamlined furnishings, but there’s nothing simple about the rich and delicious coffee.
AT THE WHISKY FRINGE
Our whisky is all about flavour – handpicked and bo led in its purest form. We’re the pioneers of single cask, cask strength single malts. Now it’s your turn to experience them at our two Fringe events – no membership needed.
WHISKY & WITCHES: AN IMMERSIVE MAGICAL MUSICAL WHISKY TASTING
The Mother Superior (Festival Venue 626a)
1, 2, 7, 8, 14, 15, 22, 23, 24 August
7pm - 9.30pm
£55 Non-members welcome
Five whiskies, five stories and ten haunting songs. This experience stimulates all the senses to create the ultimate experience of the water of life.
A DRAM IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS 28 Queen Street (Festival Venue 182)
Two sessions daily throughout August (Tuesday – Sunday): 12.30pm - 1.15pm and 5.30pm - 6.15pm
£15 Non-members welcome
A whisky tasting like no other. Immerse yourself in the world of exceptional whisky during this 45-minute guided session. You’ll enjoy three specially selected single malt whiskies from The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, each showcasing unique flavours and character.
One of the most exciting things about Edinburgh is the plethora of independent shops that line the winding, cobbled streets, offering all kinds of curated, handmade goods that beat any of the souvenir tat you might pick up on the tourist trail
Words: Anahit Behrooz
DESIGN, HOMEWARES & GIFTS
Agitate
20 Castle Terrace
Recently relocated photography gallery and shop, with a well-curated selection of film, prints and photography books. agitate.gallery
An Independent Zebra 88-92 Raeburn Pl
A hub of independent designer-makers of homewares, prints, furniture and gifts from across the UK. anindependentzebra.com
Black Moon Botanica
50 Candlemaker Row
Witchy shop stocking tarot cards, handmade candles, gemstones and other esoteric goods. blackmoonbotanica.co.uk
Curiouser & Curiouser
93 Broughton St; 106 Bruntsfield Pl
Art, framing and gift shop with two locations in the city. curiouserandcuriouser.com
Flamingosaurus Rex
22 Bruntsfield Pl
A dynamic, multifunctional gallery, shop and art space. flamingosaurusrex.com
Handsel
336 Leith Walk
An independent one-stop-shop for art, homewares, jewellery, cards and zero-waste products. handsel.uk
Logan Malloch
13 Leith Walk
Art, books, ceramics, greeting cards, plants, stationery and gifts mostly
sourced in Leith, Edinburgh and wider Scotland. loganmalloch.com
Red Door Gallery
42 Victoria St
Long-standing hub for local artists’ prints, artworks, crafts and jewellery in prime sight-seeing location. edinburghart.com
FOOD & DRINK
The Beer Cave
43 Dalry Rd
Well stocked local favourite with a focus on European craft beer. IG: @thebeercavescotland
The Beerhive
24 Rodney St
A carefully-chosen selection of beers, wines and spirits with a local emphasis. thebeerhive.co.uk
Cork and Cask
136 Marchmont Rd
Thoughtfully sourced wine, beer and whisky. corkandcask.co.uk
Image: courtesy of Red Door Gallery
Red Door Gallery
Cornelius
18 Easter Rd; 128 Leith Walk
An Easter Road institution that’s also branched out to Leith Walk, Cornelius stock the very best wine, beer and spirits. corneliusbeers.com
George Mewes
3 Dean Park St
For all your cheese-related needs. georgemewescheese.co.uk
Great Grog
2 Dalkeith Rd
Specialist in local and international craft beers and wines. greatgrog.co.uk
I.J. Mellis
30 Victoria St; 6 Bakers Pl; 330 Morningside Rd
The OG of Edinburgh cheesemongers, Mellis focus on small scale farmhouse producers alongside a range of wines and artisanal foodstuffs. mellischeese.net
Lupe Pintos
24 Leven St
Specialist deli supplying Scotland with hard to find Mexican, American and Spanish ingredients, for all your hot sauce, bean and taco needs. lupepintos.com
Salt Horse
57 Blackfriars St
Centrally-located craft beer shop and bar with a secret tiny beer garden out back.
salthorse.beer
Winekraft
6 Brandon Ter, 20 William St
Organic, biodynamic and natural wine shop, also stocks the crisps and olives you’ll remember from lockdown Instagram and Palmerston bread. winekraft.co
PLANTS
Broughton Street Flowers
87 Broughton St
Serving all your flower and plant needs, from fresh cuts to workshops. broughtonstreetflowers.com
Green Meadows
137 Buccleuch St
A modern take on a tropical plant shop with social and environmental sustainability at its core. greenplantshops.co.uk
Grow Urban
8B St Vincent St
A leafy haven for all your plant gifts include hand painted pots, cards by
Photo: Murray Orr
LIGHTHOUSE BOOKSHOP
We chat with Christina Neuwirth, bookseller at beloved radical bookshop Lighthouse Bookshop, about their favourite Edinburgh things
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for Lighthouse Bookshop?
The Radical Book Fair is always a highlight of our calendar, as is the Book Fringe which we host with our friends at Typewronger Bookshop and Argonaut Books in August! I was very proud of the programming at this year’s First Date romance fiction festival, which we ran in collaboration with Book Lovers Bookshop.
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Areas, attractions, walks etc?
One of my favourite places to walk is the Hermitage of Braid, super easy to reach by bus and with lots of flat riverside walking, all in a gorgeous lush forest. I think
the Botanics are another real highlight, beautiful at any time of year and in the rain or the sunshine.
Favourite place to eat?
Go to Word of Mouth with a friend and split the ve ie breakfast and the waffles with syrup and berries.
Favourite place to drink? Sit at the bar at the Roseleaf.
Favourite shop?
Even split between Tiso (I just get very excited buying maps and things for adventuring) and Greyfriar’s Art Shop (imagine having fresh pencils!).
Why do you like living here?
I love that it’s so bright so late in the summer, and that
spring lasts forever. I like that there are excellent transport links within the city and to the rest of the UK. I like that after 13 years here I’m still discovering new things.
What annoys you about living here?
Sometimes the humidity gets to me, and I do tend to find the Fringe quite stressful because I work right in the heart of it. It’s also so exciting to get to be in the middle of all that art and performance! But sometimes it just gets overwhelming.
Do you have a Fringe survival tip?
Bi est water bottle, Loops earplugs, go to the cinema, cycle if you can (the pavements and the buses get super busy).
Photo: Jamie Prada
local artists and terrariums for your low maintenance plant gifting. growurban.uk
Moss & Fern
84 South Clerk St
Plants and gifts, including dried floral arrangements, art, prints and homewares. mossandfern.shop
Rose and Ammi Flowers
2 Gillespie Cres
Bespoke arrangements and beautiful pots. roseandammiflowers.com
BOOKS
Argonaut Books
15-17 Leith Walk
Leith’s community bookshop, with a diverse stock and programme of in-person events. argonautbooks.co.uk
Armchair Books
72-74 West Port
Family-run second hand bookshop with the city’s finest About page, ‘staffed by Edinburgh’s finest book people who brave the shop’s untraceable noises and unique microclimate.’ armchairbooks.co.uk
Ginger and Pickles
51 St Stephen St
A thoughtfully selected range of kids books, with beautiful titles ranging from baby to young adult (plus a small stationery selection). gingerandpicklesbookshop.com
Golden Hare Books
68 St Stephen St
A cosy space filled with a finely chosen selection of writing, art books, and children’s titles. goldenharebooks.com
Lighthouse Bookshop
43-45 W Nicolson St
Edinburgh’s radical queer bookshop, with an incredible array of fiction and non-fiction alike. lighthousebookshop.com
The Portobello Bookshop
46 Portobello High St
A gorgeously designed, gorgeously curated seaside bookshop, complete with fiction, art books, and a stunning magazine collection. theportobellobookshop.com
Rare Birds Books
13 Raeburn Pl
Much-loved independent book shop championing women authors. rarebirdsbooks.com
Photo: Jamie Prada
Lighthouse Bookshop
Tills Bookshop
1 Hope Park Cres
A secondhand bookshop overlooking the Meadows specialising in rare and antiquarian books. tillsbookshop.co.uk
Topping & Company Edinburgh
2 Blenheim Pl
A veritable labyrinth of book rooms complete with book ladders and window seats, where you may be offered a complimentary tea. toppingbooks.co.uk
Typewronger Books
4a Haddington Pl
Edinburgh’s smallest bookshop and Scotland’s only typewriter repair shop! Selling books, independent publications, zines and associated merch. typewronger.com
RECORD SHOPS
Assai Records
1 Grindlay St
Staff-favourite specialists in vinyl, turntables and music merch. assai.co.uk
Avalanche Records
Waverley Mall
Indie record shop located just off Waverley Station, with an assortment of vinyls, CDs and T-shirts. avalancherecords.co.uk
Good Vibes Neighbourhood Store & Studios
151-153 Constitution St
A carefully curated record shop with various creative studios upstairs. good-vibes.space
Slow Progress Records & Coffee
53 Blackfriars St
Lots of indie vinyl and a wee coffee shop located in the Edinburgh Old Town. slowprogress.co.uk
Thorne Records
125 Bruntsfield Pl
Well organised indie with a strong devotion to local artists and customers alike. thornerecords.com
Umbrella Vinyl
20 Valleyfield St
Specialists in secondhand world music, collectibles and rare wax. umbrellavinyl.com
Underground Solu’shn 9 Cockburn St
Central Edinburgh mainstay for dance music, decks and DJ equipment. undergroundsolushn.com
VoxBox Music
21 St Stephen St
Indie record store focusing on secondhand vinyls, with books and music memorabilia. voxboxmusic.co.uk
courtesy of Good Vibes
Good Vibes Neighbourhood Store & Studios
PORTOBELLO BOOKSHOP
Euan Robertson, event manager at the seaside-adjacent The Portobello Bookshop, discusses Edinburgh’s hidden nooks and ways of escaping the Fringe
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for The Portobello Bookshop?
In the last 12 months, we’ve had the pleasure of hosting many authors that mean so much to us as a bookshop. In October 2024, the inimitable Ali Smith visited the bookshop to launch her latest novel Gliff. Smith is universally beloved by the booksellers here and the most unexpected and incredible part of this was that she dedicated Gliff to the bookshop team – one of the most joyful things that’s happened since we opened six years ago!
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Well, Portobello for starters of
Portobello Bookshop, 46 Portobello High St
course! Some people don’t realise Edinburgh has a huge, beautiful beach, and a great high street just a few yards from it. Aside from Porty, Leith and Stockbridge are great areas to wander and explore, both filled with great local shops, bookshops, bakeries. In fact, the water of Leith walkway will take you right from one to the other, and that’s one our of favourite walks on a sunny afternoon.
theportobellobookshop.com
What annoys you about living here?
Although Edinburgh is a city with a rich literary scene, we are jealous of Glasgow’s music scene!
Do you have a Fringe survival tip?
Why do you like living here?
Edinburgh has the sea, hills, rivers, a canal, and historical buildings, what else could you want? We also love our thriving indie bookshop scene.
We survive by being based in Porty, so we’re just far enough to avoid some of the crowds and noise (though it still gets quite hectic here in August). And not that you’d want to avoid the crowds all the time – the Fringe is really exciting and a lot of fun, with so many great things to see.
Image: courtesy of Portobello Bookshop
We’ve come up with the capital’s mightiest museums, its most breathtaking heights, and its most bewitching ruins to explore when you're done Instagramming the cobblestone-covered streets of the Old Town
Words: Ellie Robertson
VOLCANIC VISTAS
One of the most defensible fortresses of the middle ages is now one of the most visited attractions in the United Kingdom. Up the steep volcano on which it’s sat for 1000 years, Edinburgh Castle offers historical tours, dominating vistas, and the daily firing of the One O’ Clock gun, which makes a renowned contribution to the city’s soundscape every afternoon. You can also admire it at a lower elevation, as this crown jewel of Edinburgh’s skyline overlooks Princes Street Gardens, a fabulous tract of green space with flowers, monuments, the impressive turquoise Ross Fountain, and a wall shared with the ancient St Cuthbert’s Kirkyard. It’s so tranquil it’s easy to forget a ¾ mile shopping promenade is just across the road. Calton Hill, just as easily reachable from Edinburgh Waverley via the stairs on Regent Road, boasts the National Monument of Scotland, and our iconic but unfinished replica of the Parthenon. Also on the summit you can find The Dugald Stewart Monument and the City Observatory, which houses art gallery Collective. If you want to take on a voyage even more vertical than that, hikers avow Arthur’s Seat, which has a great beginner’s route from Queen’s Dr, by Holyrood Palace; and to see the city from the very centre of it all, climb the viewing platforms on the Scott Monument, the imposing gothic spire on Princes Street.
ACADEMIA IN THE ATHENS OF THE NORTH
The National Museum of Scotland, accessible via Chambers St, offers archeological and geological samples from around the world, as well as an eight-storey wing detailing the eras of Scotland from the prehistoric to the postindustrial, and the tenmetre tall Millenium Clock, a gargoyle-covered tower that comes alive throughout the day.
Photo: Julia Solanina Edinburgh Castle
Award-Winning Coach Tours of Scotland. Departing daily from Edinburgh, Glasgow and Inverness.
If you prefer a stroll outside, the Royal Botanic Garden is a beloved arboretum and research centre on plantlife, with seven acres of samples available to the public. And when the weather’s nice, picnickers prefer the open space of The Meadows, the unofficial commons of the nearby University of Edinburgh George Square campus – but the park’s scenic walks, shaded with cherry blossoms, are enjoyed by all.
AULD REEKIE’S UNDERCITY
An excavated alleyway, buried centuries ago, provides an image of 17thcentury slums, perfectly preserving the dismal conditions of the city’s past. Aside from being morbidly fascinating, Mary King’s Close (2 Warriston’s Cl) is oftentimes called Britain’s most haunted location. Whether or not you’re in search of the paranormal, Edinburgh’s underground is known for its eerie atmosphere; Auld Reekie Tours (45 Niddry St) and Mercat Tours (28 Blair St) offer journeys into the vaults buried beneath the capital.
The gothic Greyfriar’s Kirkyard (Greyfriar’s Pl) is known best for its story of Greyfriar’s Bobby, a terrier who loyally defended his late master’s grave. The statue to commemorate the pooch, which itself protects the gates to the cemetery, is a symbol of the city and rumoured to grant luck to those who pet his nose. Aside from the legend, the site is worth seeing just for its elaborate sepulchres and interned elite. For the stronger stomached out there, Surgeon’s Hall (Nicolson St) is a medical museum of human body parts preserved in formaldehyde – one of the most fascinating, if grizzly, glances into the Enlightenment era of Edinburgh.
INTERACT WITH EDINBURGH
But long after medical museums and mock-ups of Greek monuments, Edinburgh has remained a cradle of learning. Dynamic Earth (Holyrood Rd) is a highly-interactive science centre, that educates all ages on the world we live in with elaborate, environmental displays. You can experience the recreated conditions of an earthquake,
Photo: Ross
Sneddon
Royal Botanic Garden
touch a real glacier and feel it crystalise around your handprint, and enjoy an eye-opening experience at the planetarium. Speaking of eyes, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions (549 Castlehill) is a multi-storey attraction of elaborate visual effects, including mirror mazes and tunnels of light. And for a great way to see the city, you can travel by foot or by bike via the Water of Leith Walkway, which takes you to such scenic spots as Dean Village, the Colinton Tunnel, and areas like Craiglockhart Hill and Saughton Gardens.
HAVE FUN FURTHER OUT
If you really want to give your legs a stretch and get some fresh Scottish air, jump on a bus to the Pentland Hills, a hikeable wildlands just an hour north of Edinburgh, where you can meet some Highland cattle up close in the fur. The open-air art park Jupiter Artland, known for its surrealist landscaping and otherworldly sculpture, is a similar distance from the city, and on Scotland’s sunniest days – it’s been known to happen – Portobello Beach is the best place to be.
Photo: Amelia Claudia courtesy of Jupiter Artland
Jupiter Artland
HAMISH HAWK, BILLY NOMATES
+ SUPPORT FROM CLOTH & DAVE ROWNTREE (BLUR) DJ SET FRIDAY 8 AUGUST 2025
PLUS MUCH MORE OVER 10 DAYS INCLUDING:
EZRA COLLECTIVE • AIR • THE BOOMTOWN RATS
• INDIE DISCO: STUART BRAITHWAITE & STUART MURDOCH
• JIM MOIR • STUART MURDOCH: NOBODY’S EMPIRE
• ALAN DAVIES • LOST MAP PRESENTS PICTISH TRAIL PLUS PALS
• IF THE STARS HAD A SOUND • IRVINE WELSH • TIM POPE
• SINCE YESTERDAY: THE UNTOLD STORY OF SCOTLAND’S GIRL BANDS
• DINNY GREET & REDOLENT • SECRET LIVES: THE UNTOLD STORY OF BRITISH HIP HOP • HEN HOOSE PRESENTS MALKA & CARLA J EASTON
We decided that the best people to ask for recommendations of kids’ activities in Edinburgh were the children themselves! We asked, what do you like to do in Edinburgh? The results were, predictably, varied…
Words: Rosamund West
“I like going to the Botanic Gardens. You get to run around. They grow lots of different trees and flowers there. I feel peaceful there. I like being in the outdoors.”
Xavi, aged 6
Edie, aged 6
“Go Ape because I really like ziplines. The other thing I like to do is Aquadash because it’s an obstacle course in water and I love being in water and I love obstacles.”
Roo, aged 7
“Going on a walk, all the way here... climb the mountain Arthur Seat... we can take a photo of the city. You can bring ice cream up the hill – Arthur Seat – my feet were sore. The museum – maybe we could go there again now!? To see dinosaur skeletons!”
“I like to go to the zoo to look at all the animals. My favourites are the lizards and snakes. All the things in the reptile house. And spiders.” Are there any shows in August you would recommend? “Those silly ones. You know those silly ones?” The Listies? “Yeah those ones!”
Oran, aged 6
“I love going to Foxlake and doing all the activities there, I especially like the wakeboarding.”
Angus, aged 6
“My favourite thing to do is to go to the cinema and eat popcorn. My favourite movie is How to Train Your Dragon best movie ever.”
Lucy, aged 7
“I love Edinburgh Zoo because it’s really fun! I like the dinosaurs and the porcupines.”
Cole, aged 7
AN INTERVIEW WITH ELENA, AGED 5
What do you like to do in Edinburgh?
“I like Gravity. It’s where there’s tons of trampolines, maybe 100 of them, but there’s some like that [indicates diagonal angle with her arm], then you bounce like that [indicates bouncing legs at an angle] then you slam back on the trampoline, like that. And there’s also one, where you go up, then stand on a high thing above the ground, then you jump on a trampoline, then land on a soft bit.”
Anything else in Edinburgh you like to see, visit, do, go to?
“I don’t think so, actually I like going to soft play and the climbing walls, the climbing centre.”
At Ratho?
“[nods] And there’s a soft play and climbing centre together, and that’s where I went with Pappy and Granmarie.”
What do you like to do with mummy and daddy when we go out by ourselves, without the other children? “Play, play eye spy, go to the theatre.”
What’s your favourite theatre?
“Umm, the one we went with school and the one where we watched Snow White.”
You mean the cinema? “Yeah.”
So you’re talking about the cinema, not the theatre? The Dominion Cinema. “[nods] And I think that’s it.”
What about the theatre?
“I don’t know… watching movies and eating popcorn.”
Mmm, but the theatre isn’t a movie. The theatre is like, The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.
“Oh, so I like The Lion, Witch, and the Wardrobe where, cause there’s a magic drawer, where there’s people going inside it and then they disappear at a different, like, life, where there’s a person that’s bad.”
OK, but I don’t think it’s a drawer, I think it’s a wardrobe. “A wardrobe.”
That’s why it’s called The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.
The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe by Elena
SUPER POWER AGENCY
We get some Edinburgh recs from Claire Heffernan, Managing Director at the Super Power Agency – a youth writing charity based in Edinburgh
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
As with many people living in Leith, I often see no reason to leave. The Shore has some great restaurants, amazing coffee from William and Johnson, and lovely dog walks along the Water of Leith. I personally love a little walk down to Newhaven too – great fish and chips and a lovely little bay that’s much less busy than Portobello.
Favourite place to eat?
So many places to choose from in Edinburgh, so this is hard but I recently went to Sotto in Stockbridge and it went straight to the top of my list. The food was amazing, the wine was absolutely delicious, but the service was just next level. We sat in the window people-watching all evening – perfection!
Favourite place to drink?
I love Bramble for a, well… bramble. A cute little hidden cocktail bar with cosy corners. I also love the Malt and Hops on the Shore for reasonably priced drinks, a lively atmosphere and on a sunny day you take your drink outside and sit in the sun on the Water of Leith.
Why do you like living here?
I think it’s honestly the best
city in the world – it looks like a movie set, the people are friendly, the food is incredible, you’re by the beach and you’re so close to the most beautiful, and scenic countryside too. I’ve lived here for 7 years and can’t imagine myself anywhere else.
What annoys you about living here?
How hard it can be to get a last-minute reservation – you
really have to plan in advance particularly at the weekend. Oh, and not to be too British about it, but the weather can be depressing.
Do you have an Edinburgh festivals survival tip?
Just give yourself enough time to move (read: slowly amble) around the city. The crowds make walking anywhere take so much longer than you’d think.
Edinburgh
Find the exact location of every venue listed via the QR code.
Airport
Ingliston Gogarburn
Edinburgh Gateway Gyle Centre
Edinburgh Park Central
Edinburgh Park Station
Bankhead
Saughton
Balgreen
Murrayfield Haymarket
Murrayfield Stadium
Haymarket West End
Princes Street
St Andrew Square Picardy Place
McDonald Road
Balgour Street
Foot of the Walk
The Shore
Port of Leith
Ocean Terminal
Newhaven
Edinburgh is filled with art spaces, ranging from the neoclassical grandeur of the national collections to Leith DIY displays in converted shopfronts, via vibrant workshops and hilltop galleries
Words: Rosamund West
Fruitmarket
45 Market St
The closest gallery to Waverley station has been taken over by a new immersive installation by Mike Nelson titled Humpty Dumpty, subtitled ‘a transient history of Mardin earthworks, low rise’ (27 Jul-5 Oct).
City Art Centre
2 Market St
Bringing together over 80 drawings and paintings across two floors, John Bellany: A Life in Self Portraiture (until 28 Sep) offers a captivating insight into the work of one of the most significant Scottish painters of the modern era.
Stills
23 Cockburn St
Edinburgh’s original photography gallery and education space hosts Siân Davey – The Garden (1-30 Aug) as its Edinburgh Art Festival show.
Talbot Rice Gallery
University of Edinburgh, South Bridge
In the heart of the University’s Old College, Talbot Rice celebrate their 50th birthday with a solo exhibition by Egyptian artist Wael Shawky (28 Jun-28 Sep).
Dovecot
10 Infirmary St
The home of weaving in Scotland celebrates 60 years of everyone’s favourite Swedish furniture retailer with IKEA: Magical Patterns (18 Jul-17 Jan, £12.50).
Collective
City Observatory, 38 Calton Hill
Situated atop Calton Hill, Collective’s views are unparalleled in the city. This summer they’re hosting Argentinian artist Mercedes Azpilicueta’s Fire on the Mountain, Light on the Hill (until 7 Sep), an exploration of care and resistance.
Edinburgh Printmakers
Castle Mills, 1 Dundee St
In new exhibition Raindrops of Rani, Glasgow artist Aqsa Arif’s printmaking, textile, sculpture and film explores elements of Pakistani folklore (1 Aug-2 Nov).
Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop
21 Hawthornvale
The summer exhibition in this buzzing Newhaven workshop complex is Beachheads by Louise Gibson (7-30 Aug), an exhibition of monumental sculptures crafted from the detritus of late capitalism.
Inverleith House
Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row
In the heart of the Royal Botanic Garden, Linder’s Danger Came Smiling (until 19 Oct) showcases 50 years of the feminist artist’s trailblazing work.
Bard
1 Customs Wharf
A magical Leith space celebrating Scottish design, in August they’ll host Orcadian artist Brandon Logan’s Little Low Heavens (7-24 Aug), an
Image: courtesy of Bellfield Brewery
Photo: Charlotte Cullen
Linder at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh for EAF and Mount Stuart
exhibition celebrating his minimal abstract work melding traditions of weaving and painting.
Embassy
10B Broughton St Ln
An artist-run space, check their Instagram (@embassygallery) for up-to-date exhibition info.
Sett Studios
127 Leith Walk
Run by artists, for artists, Sett is committed to creating a safe, accessible space, fostering allyship and uplifting marginalised voices. FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS (8-10 Aug) is the Leith gallery’s first supporters’ show, inviting friends and associates in to run the place.
Agitate
20 Castle Ter
An artist-run photography collective, hosting workshops, exhibitions and in-conversation events. Visits by appointment.
Ingleby Gallery
33 Barony St
The former Glasite Meeting House showcases work by internationally renowned contemporary artists, including Katie Paterson and Peter Liversidge. Their summer show is the UK’s first major exhibition of Philadelphia-based painter Aubrey Levinthal, Mirror Matter (28 Jun-13 Sep).
Jupiter Artland
Bonnington House, Wilkieston
On the outskirts of the city, this magical sculpture park is home to a treasure trove of site-specific artworks by an array of international artists. Their summer show is Jonathan Baldock: WYRD (until 28 Sep) which transforms their ornate Ballroom Gallery into a zoo of textile and clay queer animals. They also host JUPITER RISING x EAF, a one-night-only experimental music and performance party in the woods (Sat 16 Aug).
Unlimited Corporation
77 Brunswick St
The former Ambulance Depot hosts a solo exhibition from Jake Chapman (21 Jun-26 Jul).
Photo: Neil Hanna
Alima Askew. Jupiter Rising x EAF 2024
RESIDENT ADVISORS:
EAF
Kim McAleese and Eleanor Edmondson of Edinburgh Art Festival – the UK’s largest (and most fun) visual art festival – share some of the their local knowledge
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for you?
We’re an annual festival, so it would be madness not to say EAF24! BUT, for fairness:
Kim: I absolutely adored A Kind Of Glamour About Me by Linder at Mount Stuart (Isle of Bute) last weekend. We launch the festival with that performance, and I cannot wait!
Ellie: I would say seeing Lewis Walker perform Bornsick at the Round Chapel – collaboration is so key to what we do, and working with Serpentine on this was a dream – it comes to us on 23 August.
What’s coming up in the future?
EAF25! Expect bold performances, intimate conversations, and amazing parties. We run 7-25 August – do not miss out!
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Ellie: I will take walks – Kim famously doesn’t walk anywhere. Edinburgh’s cycle paths are lush and green right now, and you can get right across the city.
Kim: I live in Newhaven – it’s a real sanctuary from the city’s busyness. Head to Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop for a nose around or a coffee at Milk, and the sea right beside.
Edinburgh Art Festival, 7-25 August, venues across the city
edinburghartfestival.com
Favourite place to eat?
Easy – Montrose is our all-time favourite, whether it’s a chill bite in the bar or the set menu upstairs. Honourable mention to Dumplings of China and Noodles Home – both have a very special place in our hearts.
Favourite place to drink?
Kim: I love Spry – the staff, the atmosphere. It’s quiet, and dark enough to have a good gossip.
Ellie: I have to say Nauticus – I’ve never had a bad drink there. Order a half and half or a dirty martini!
Favourite shop?
Kim; I love Lighthouse Books – events, browsing, or most
importantly a hug and chat with Mairi.
Ellie: I love a Sunday stroll down to the Shore, and a peek in Bard – best chat, and their shop is a real life heaven.
Why do you like living here?
Kim: I genuinely love the festivals and galleries – over 30,000 events in August and so many are free to attend.
Ellie: I’m going to quote my fiancé (!?!) here “not many cities give you a beach, a mountain, and a castle.”
Do you have an Edinburgh festivals survival tip?
Can we say Bloody Marys? X Muse, single-handedly gets us through the festival every year.
Image: courtesy
Kim McAleese and Eleanor Edmondson
From its grassroots scene and music history walking tours to world class showcases and huge outdoor concerts, we celebrate Edinburgh’s music scene in all its glory
Words: Tallah Brash
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, despite being Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh is often overshadowed by its pal in the west, Glasgow. It is a UNESCO city of music, after all, so you’ll be pleased to hear that if there are gigs happening there while you’re in the Burgh, it’s super easy and quick to get to by train, with some Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street trains taking as little as 45 minutes. But that’s enough about Glasgow. Stick around in Edinburgh and there are rewards to be found. The DIY and grassroots scene in the capital is great, if you know where to look – enter us! Hi, hello! If you head down to Leith, near the bottom of Leith Walk is Leith Depot – with its thriving small gigs scene, you’ll find local bands playing most nights of the week, and we’re not talking cover bands, we mean bona fide local talent writing their own original songs and carving their own place in Edinburgh’s music scene. A short walk across Leith Links, is Leith FAB Cricket Club, a social club with their irregular gigs and clubs programme overseen by Leith Depot. Here you’ll find local artists launching new releases, one-off parties, clubs that finish at 1am and Scotland’s national lager – Tennent’s – served in glass bottles that look antique. If you’ve got time to really get to grips with Leith while you’re here, pop into spots like Sett Studios and Settlements Projects, or Safari Lounge and Bellfield Brewery in neigbouring Abbeyhill. While live music isn’t what any of them do as a priority, they’ve all been known to put on unforgettable gigs in recent times, so swing by at the right time and you might stumble upon a rare gem.
Good Vibes record shop, just beyond the Foot of the Walk, and helpfully on the tram route, have also been known to host in-stores from time to time, as do most other independents in the city, with Bruntsfield’s Thorne Records and Grindlay Street’s Assai Records worth looking up while you’re in town. The latter have hosted out-stores for big names like Confidence Man and our own Young Fathers at city centre venues for intimate album launches.
Sticking in the city centre, grassroots music thrives in spots like Bannerman’s and Banshee Labyrinth, if you like your music on the slightly heavier, more abrasive side, while a little further along the Cowgate, at
world-renowned, award-winning spot
Sneaky Pete’s, you’ll find all manner of local and touring talent playing intimate shows for just over 100 people at a time. What’s more, some of the world’s bi est names in DJing have played here over the years, with many requesting to come back again and again to play this intimate sweatbox like no other. If you’re here in August, Sneaky’s has a late license meaning it’s open until 5am every night, so don’t be surprised if you stumble out the club to find the sun is coming up. It happens.
Also in the old town, mid-sized gig and club spots like The Liquid Room, Bongo Club (an Underbelly Fringe venue in August), Cabaret Voltaire, The
Image: courtesy of Good Vibes
LEITH DEPOT
Craig Somerville, Leith Depot venue manager and booker for Leith FAB Cricket Club, shares some local secrets
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months?
We’ve had loads of great shows at both venues. My personal highlights at the Depot would be Cowboy Hunters, Rachelle Lavelle and Dr Salad, to name a few. For the Cricket Club, I loved Bikini Body’s recent gig there and Pictish Trail has been doing a sort of quarterly residency, which have all been great shows.
What’s coming up in the future for you?
We’ve got some great festival shows on this year; Vic Galloway is presenting a run of shows called Live Music and Chats featuring some brilliant acts such as Cloth, Haiver, Constant Follower and Siobhan Wilson.
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
I love Leith, so I would always recommend that people visiting Edinburgh spend some time there.
I’m also really into walking/ hiking so I would encourage folk to go a wander up
Arthur’s Seat or a walk along the Water of Leith to the Modern Art Gallery.
Where’s your favourite place to eat in Edinburgh?
That’s a tough one! I recently had a Laksa at Soul Vegan that was a 10/10, or if you’re
looking for good pub food, I would always recommend the Roseleaf down by The Shore.
Where’s your favourite place to drink in Edinburgh?
That’s an easy one for me. Debatably biased, but it would have to be Leith Depot. I’ve been working there for eight or nine years, same as a lot of the staff, so we’re all quite a tight group and it’s the main local for all my close friends as well.
What’s your favourite independent shop in Edinburgh?
Good Vibes Records on Commercial Street. Great selection of records and great in-store gigs.
Why do you like living here?
For me living in Leith, it’s the music and art scene and the sense of community.
What annoys you about living here?
Edinburgh Council and the cost of rent.
Do you have a Fringe survival tip?
Keep out of town, stay in Leith!
Image: courtesy Leith Depot
Mash House, The Caves and La Belle Angele should also be on your checklist. If you’re specifically in the city for August, La Belle has a packed live programme, including a new gig series from 432 Presents called Big Nights @ La Belle. Highlights include BC Camplight (3 Aug), Jurassic 5’s Chali 2na (1 Aug), LA’s hiliarious Thumpasaurus (18 Aug) and Kate Stables’ This Is the Kit (26 Aug). Also at La Belle, keep an eye out for the Made in Scotland Showcases, still TBC at the time of writing, forming part of the Fringe series that celebrates world class music, theatre, and dance being created in Scotland.
If BIG gigs are more your vibe, you’ll find shows at grander spots in the city like the Usher Hall and The Queen’s Hall, while Edinburgh Castle provides an impressive backdrop for a few shows in July. For EVEN BIGGER shows, look to the outskirts of the city. In August, Edinburgh Summer Sessions are set to welcome Sam Fender and Chappell Roan to the Royal Highland Centre in Ingliston (near the Airport); while they are sold out, it’s worth checking Ticketmaster nearer the time for official resales.
In North Berwick, an East Lothian seaside town just over half an hour away on the train from Edinburgh
Photo: Mert Keith
Christine and the Queens at Usher Hall
Waverley, see some big names as part of their Fringe by the Sea festival (1-10 Aug). French electronic pop pioneers Air (2 Aug) are set to play their iconic debut album Moon Safari in full to mark its 25th anniversary, local star Hamish Hawk plays alongside Billy Nomates and Cloth on the 8th, while 2023 Mercury Prize winners Ezra Collective play the following night. At the end of August seek out Edinburgh Psych Fest (31 Aug) taking over arts space Summerhall as well as The Queen’s Hall for a big day of exciting music to end the month on a high. Nadine Shah, Du Blonde, Getdown Services, Horse
Jumper of Love and local party starters Bikini Body, signed to Glasgow’s Optimo Music Rocks label, are all set to play. Finally, if you want to get to the heart of the city’s musical history, add Edinburgh’s Greatest Hits Walking Tour to your to-do list. Running on Fridays and Saturdays from 1 to 23 August (or nab a 2for1 on their Monday 4 August outing), learn about the musicians who have stayed, played and made music in Scotland’s capital over the years, and hear tales of artists like David Bowie and Nirvana and how they made their mark on the city’s everevolving music scene.
Photo: Stuart Stott
The Wytches at Edinburgh Psych Fest
RESIDENT ADVISORS:
SLOW PROGRESS
Top tips from Connie and Andy of Slow Progress Records & Coffee, a little shop on Blackfriars Street between the Royal Mile and the Cowgate with a lovely community events space out the back
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months?
The highlights of the year always include Record Store Day and hosting PBH Free Fringe shows in August. Last year we were featured on BBC 6 Music and Connie had a lovely chat with Huw Stephens live on air, which was cool!
What’s coming up in the future for you?
We’re hoping to organise even more fun musicrelated events in our backroom – keep an eye out for that!
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
We have an almost-four year old so we normally recommend the winning combo of the museum on Chambers Street and The Meadows. I also always tell people to get to the coast – Portobello, Wardie Bay or Cramond.
Where’s your favourite place to eat in Edinburgh?
Slow Progress Records & Coffee, 53 Blackfriars St slowprogress.co.uk
Of course we have to say our beloved next-door neighbours, Salt Horse! Their thing is beer, but they’ll do you a wine or a cider as well if you ask nicely. A great vibe and lovely staff.
We love Civerinos, mainly for the garlic crust bites. Whenever people come into the shop looking for brunch, I always tell them Kilimanjaro Coffee in Newington – I’m never disappointed!
Where’s your favourite place to drink in Edinburgh?
What’s your favourite independent shop in Edinburgh?
Apart from our own shop obviously, we love Easter Greens at the top of Easter Road – it’s a fully vegan supermarket (small but has so much stuff!!), and Lighthouse Books, which is an absolute institution.
Why do you like living here?
Edinburgh has everything! But not too big and not too scary!
What annoys you about living here?
Not to be rude but it’s got to be the tourists. I’m sorry!
Pedestrian etiquette leaves a lot to be desired!
Do you have a Fringe survival tip?
Fold away raincoat, bottled water, account for extra travel/queueing time. Download your podcasts before you go out because there’s no signal anywhere.
Image: courtesy of Slow Progress
Our top picks of club nights you can rely on for when you're out in the capital. We've selected at least one for each night of the week, so you'll never be forced to have an early night
Words: Cammy Gallagher
Tracks Subway, Mondays
The bi est stage in Scottish drag, hosted weekly from 9pm by Elizabeth Moore.
Trash
Hive, Tuesdays
Free entry, £1 spirit mixer, and a sticky dancefloor to get down to indie classics till late every week. No frills, no qualms.
Membrane
Sneaky Pete’s, Wednesdays
Weird and wonderful wax cuts curated monthly alongside international selectors spanning bass, house, and techno. Previous guests include Jon K, Ploy, Liv Wutang.
Volens Chorus
Sneaky Pete’s, Thursdays
Your one-stop shop for all things hip-hop, hardcore and everything in between. A healthy midweek dose of gritty mixing, microphone action and wheel-ups in abundance. Previous guests include Jawnino, Martyn Bootspoon, RP Boo.
Hot Mess
Sneaky Pete’s, Fridays
Serving up bumping house and Hi-NRG classics for all genders, sexualities, ethnicities, and ages – in their own words, Hot Mess will blow your mind, give you little forehead kisses, and call you a good boy.
Mantle
Sneaky Pete’s, Fridays
Heads down for the freshest dubstep bi-monthly to burst onto the Cowgate. The party hits FWD thinking bass on the head and a bill of heavyweight bookings to match. Previous guests include Loefah, DJ Gi les, Dub Athlete.
Messenger Sound
The Bongo Club, Saturdays
Holding it down since 1987, Messenger is Scotland’s longest-running independent heavy-duty, high-powered sound
system. Three stacks, two generations, one love. Previous guests include Jah Shaka, Levi Roots, Channel One.
Pulse
The Bongo Club / The Mash House, Saturdays
A no-nonsense techno crew and bi-monthly party blending contemporary four-to-the-floor sounds with classic character. Previous guests include DVS1, Perc, DJ Stingray.
Free
Time
Sneaky Pete’s, Sundays
Sneaky’s in-house affair offers intimate sets from some of the bi est names in the scene with the bonus of an early bedtime. Previous guests include Machinedrum, Mr Scruff, A-Trak.
Femmergy
The Biscuit Factory and Paradise Palms
An intersectional safe space for femme art and music. Boogie in maximal style with minimal trouble. Previous guests include Rahul.mp3, NANI, Groundskeeper Fanny.
Photo: Charlotte Cullen
Rianna at Femmergy
CHILDREN
DANCEHALL BLUES
MONSTERRRR! WITH TRYGVE WAKENSHAW
FRISKY’S RESHUFFLE
RAISE THE BARRE
CIRQUE KALABANTÉ: WOW (WORLD OF WORDS)
THE GENESIS
→ EDINBURGH IN AUGUST
When the Edinburgh Festivals – International, Fringe, Art, Book and Film – arrive in August the city is transformed. We take a tour through their respective programmes to pull out some highlights for you to enjoy
Words: Arusa Qureshi
We all know and appreciate the value of arts and culture, especially in periods where we can see creativity, activism, and nonconformity all being challenged and thwarted. As we make our way into another festival season in Edinburgh, it’s worth remembering how privileged we are to have so much available on our doorstep; the multiplicity of voices and disciplines in every inch of the city highlighting the power of diversity, difference and, perhaps most importantly, community. August in Edinburgh isn’t without its issues, affordability being a key concern, but if we collectively continue hammering home the value of this creative ecosystem – for the many and not the few – maybe the tides will eventually turn.
Looking at the programmes for the Fringe, International, Book, Film, and Art Festivals, it’s positive to see how many countries are represented, proving that Edinburgh remains outward-facing and international in its
outlook. There are far too many highlights to name in one go but for a comprehensive guide, check out The Skinny’s August issue and Fest, the latter of which publishes four issues between the end of July and August. For now, here’s a taste of what to expect and what we’d recommend, from world-renowned companies to up-and-coming stars.
COMEDY
Known as the Fringe’s ‘original home of comedy,’ Gilded Balloon will be celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, with a programme that marks the venue’s growth, success, and many milestones across the years. Highlights include Alan Davies, who presents his first Fringe show in 10 years; Rosie O’Donnell, who is performing at the Fringe for the first time; a Smack the Pony reunion; and an In Conversation series featuring Jenny Eclair, Michelle McManus, and a Two Doors Down
Photo: Chris Flexen
Edinburgh Castle
EICC AND THE PLEASANCE
4th – 8th August 2025
Be part of the audience of some of the best loved BBC radio shows and podcasts.
Enjoy ome of he fine ac pe fo ming a he Edinb gh Festivals as they join presenters for fun, entertainment and chat.
For FREE tickets and information
Please scan the QR code or go to pleasance.co.uk EICC, 150 Morrison Street, Edinburgh, EH3 8EE Pleasance Courtyard, 60 Pleasance, Edinburgh, EH8 9TJ
reunion for Kieran Hodgson and Doon Mackichan. There’s new shows from favourites like Michelle Brasier, Kim Blythe, and Bec Hill. In partnership with Chloe Petts, Michelle Brasier also hosts Comedians On Stage Auditioning for Musicals, a sell-out late-night cult show fresh from Melbourne Comedy Festival where a line-up of comedians audition for a fictional theatre group.
Speaking of Melbourne hits, Garry Starr, who won this year’s Most Outstanding Show Award, is back with his Classic Penguins. He’ll be taking to Underbelly’s giant upside-down purple cow to perform every Penguin Classic novel ever written, mostly naked. Also at Underbelly, Trygve Wakenshaw and Barnie Duncan make a brand-new show right in front of you in Hot Chips, while Cabbage the Clown’s debut hour promises a buffet of genres. Holly Spillar’s Tall Child is described as a musical hour on the impossibilities of being alive right now, while Grace Petrie presents a mash-up of stand-up and folk music in This Is No Time To Panic!. Trygve and Barnie are also performing their award-winning hour of office-set slapstick Different Party
at Assembly George Square and nearby, in the Gordon Aikman Theatre, the Billy Connolly Spirit of Glasgow award-winner Susie McCabe returns with a new show, Best Behaviour. In the same space, Police Cops celebrate their 10th anniversary by bringing back the show that started it all, and in Assembly George Square Gardens, Jordan Gray brings us the fantastically named Is That a C*ck in Your Pocket, or Are You Just Here to Kill Me?
On the theme of shows with excellent titles, Barry Ferns presents My Seven Years as Lionel Richie at Just the Tonic at The Caves, while Heidi Regan discusses love, loss, and facing your fears in Jekyll and Heidi at Banshee Labyrinth. At the same venue, Phil Green’s A Broken Man’s Guide to Fixing Others tells the story of how a chance meeting at a failed Big Brother audition changed his life, and in The Ritual, Steffen Hånes and his loyal servant Gregory Lass invite you to revel in the company of vampires.
Over at the Pleasance, there’s the usual big mix of Fringe favourites and intriguing debuts. On the latter, we’re particularly excited about Toussaint Douglass, Seaton Smith, Zainab
Photo: Will Hazel
Johnson and Hasan Al-Habib. There’s also the always weird and wonderful Patti Harrison with Don’t Ask: A Variety Show With Friends; Cat Cohen who returns to Edinburgh with Broad Strokes, the story of her randomly suffering a stroke in 2023; and Thanyia Moore, whose show August details what happened during her ill-fated debut hour in Edinburgh.
A new addition to the comedy landscape in August is Summerhall, who have two shows in the comedy section this year: SLUGS, from the creators of 2023’s cult-hit CREEPY BOYS and Mr Chonkers, John Norris’ absurd clowning masterpiece. Edinburgh’s other year-round venues The Stand and Monkey Barrel also have plenty to look forward to. At Monkey Barrel, you’ll find two former Edinburgh Comedy Award Best Newcomer winners: Urooj Ashfaq, whose How to Be a Baddie sees the comic strive for edgelord status; and Joe Kent-Walters, who is back as our favourite demonic Working Men’s Club owner, Frankie Monroe. There’s also Desiree Burch, Lou Wall, Liam Withnail, Krystal Evans, Janine Harouni, Jamali Maddix and so many more. Meanwhile, at The Stand, you can check out Mark Thomas, who celebrates 40 years at the mic; Jay Lafferty, who returns with new hour Ooft!; the endlessly inventive Seymour Mace; and Paul Sinha’s 30th anniversary show, 2 Sinha Lifetime.
THEATRE
There are some heavy-hitters in this year’s theatre section of the Edinburgh International Festival programme, including James Graham’s Make It Happen, which sees legendary actor Brian Cox return to the Scottish stage for the first time in a decade as Adam Smith, with Sandy Grierson as Fred Goodwin, the former RBS CEO. There’s also Works and Days, which blends stunning imagery, movement and music to explore our connection
with the land we inhabit; and Faustus in Africa!, the multi-award-winning production which combines puppetry with animations and a haunting score.
In the Fringe programme, Summerhall remains the place to go for exciting new writing, from homegrown talent to international superstars. SKYE: A Thriller by award-winning theatre producer Ellie Keel and the first ever co-production with Summerhall Arts, explores ghosts, grief, and family relationships, as four siblings see their father standing on a beach, several years after his death. Anarchic theatre company IN BED
Photo:
Jonny Ruff
Urooj Ashfaq
15 SHOWS
7 VENUES
EDINBURGH 2025
LONDON’S MOST VIBRANT PRODUCER OF NEW THEATRE, COMEDY AND CABARET IS BACK WITH THIS LUSH LOT.
WITH MY BROTHER return with Philosophy of the World, a grungefilled show inspired by The Sha s, three sisters whose father forced them to form a rock band; and radical performer Emma Frankland presents No Apologies, a raucous theatrical cabaret exploration into what society could have looked like if Kurt Cobain was a trans woman. Elsewhere, cabaret icon Jonny Woo charts his life from a childhood in Kent to queer performance and community in Suburbia; Hannah Maxwell brings BABYFLEAREINDEERBAG, a guide to making a successful Edinburgh Fringe sequel, after your last public overshare; and the inaugural Guimarães Rosa Institute Award winner Amazons is a stirring one-person exploration of Amazonian culture, colonialism and the fight for climate justice.
Writer-musician Karine Polwart delves into ecological loss and collective ritual in Windblown at the Queen’s Hall, imagining the poetic and musical voice of the sabal palm in Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Garden. Meanwhile, at the Storytelling Centre, Mairi Campbell performs her
acclaimed Pendulum Trilogy in its entirety for the first time. At the Traverse, you’ll find 12 productions in total – three world premieres, one European, three UK and three Scottish premieres. In She’s Behind You, director John Tiffany returns to the venue alongside Johnny McKnight for an uplifting journey exploring our love of panto and the dames that define it. Standing In The Shadows of Giants is an autobiographical musical play by Lucie Barât, sister of The Libertines’ frontman Carl Barât, and Red Like Fruit is a haunting post-#MeToo fable. At Assembly, don’t miss Betty Grumble’s Enemies of Grooviness Eat Sh!t, in which the performance artist and ‘sex clown’ takes on climate collapse and patriarchal violence; Ohio, a musical experience featuring Obie-winning indie-folk duo The Bengsons; and Barrowland Ballet’s Chunky Jewellery, a joyous celebration of sisterhood.
Also exploring sisterhood, albeit in a more dysfunctional way, Yes, We’re Related at Underbelly Cowgate is a dark comedy about the unpredictable stages of grief. At the same
Photo: Tommy Ga-Ken Wan
Johnny McKnight as Widow McTwank
venue, KINDER follows drag artist Goody Prostate in a chaotic exploration of childhood, memory, and stories, while podcast duo Rubina Pabani and Poppy Jay talk sex in Brown Girls Do It Too: Mama Told Me Not to Come at Underbelly Bristo Square. At Gilded Balloon, Float is Indra Wilson’s solo show about the turbulent journey of experiencing pregnancy loss as a queer young person, and Dreamscape combines beatboxing, spoken word and hip-hop dance to tell the true story of the night Californian policemen shot dead nineteen-year-old Tyisha Miller. Sticking with the police theme, Isla Cowan’s Alright Sunshine at Pleasance Dome follows PC Nicky McCreadie as she responds to a mass brawl on Edinburgh’s Meadows, and in the same space, The Insider by Denmark’s Teater Katapult looks at greed and large-scale financial fraud. Belgian theatre company Ontroerend Goed’s Thanks for Being Here at ZOO Southside attempts to dissolve the boundaries between audience and performers, and at ZOO Playground, Another Sight is staged completely in the dark and performed by a cast of both blind and sighted actors.
MUSIC
There’s an exciting new gig series taking place during this year’s Fringe, with some pretty wide-ranging acts involved. Big Nights @ La Belle starts off strong on Fri 1 August with The 900, the UK’s first and only Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater cover band, followed by American songwriter and multi-instrumentalist BC Camplight on Sun 3. Later in the month, Jurassic 5 legend Chali 2na takes to the La Belle stage (Mon 11 Aug), Pete Doherty plays two consecutive nights (Tue 12 and Wed 13 Aug), Thumpasaurus make their grand return to the Fringe (Mon 18 Aug) and Eurovision favourite Baby Lasagna makes a pitstop following his European tour (Mon 25 Aug).
Elsewhere in the Fringe programme, there’s some great experimental work to check out, including Channel at Assembly Roxy by Dutch Kills Theater Company and musician/ composer Wet Hands. The show invites you to sit, stand or lie down as you’re led through an immersive sound bath, guided by live ambient electronic music. At the French Institute in Scotland, Scottish artist and musician Lomond Campbell presents a unique live performance of MUO, an audiovisual experience ‘powered by the universe itself’. Lomond performs with his one-of-a-kind handmade instrument, the Muonophone, creating a constantly evolving sonic landscape. Russian protest art collective Pussy Riot are back at Summerhall, merging punk, electronica, theatre, documentary footage and protest, and Dan Willson (Withered Hand) is joined by a host of very special guests at the Queen’s Hall on Thu 21 August.
As usual, there is a plethora of new musicals that will be touching down at the Fringe, with many likely going on to have runs outside of Edinburgh. How to Win Against History at Underbelly is a comedy musical that tells the true story of Henry Cyril Paget, once one of the world’s wealthiest men, who squandered it all on being fabulous. At Pleasance, World’s Greatest Lover – The New Musical sees literature’s most legendary lovers, from Casanova to Romeo, hunt for the truth about love, while Midnight at the Palace at Gilded Balloon is about the avant garde psychedelic hippie theatre group The Cockettes, who took San Francisco by storm in 1969. Also at Gilded Balloon, Darby James returns with his one-man musical comedy about sperm donation, Little Squirt. At the International Festival, there’s the usual packed programme of classical music, with highlights including BBC Young Musician of the Year 2024 Ryan Wang performing four
Endea Owens, Edinburgh International Festival
works by Chopin (Mon 18 Aug) and The London Philharmonic Orchestra with Holst’s The Planets (5 Aug). On Wed 20 August, Breaking Bach sees the Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment, performing on 18th-century period instruments, joined by a troupe of dancers whose new choreography brings Bach’s music to life, and Triptic (Mon 11 Aug), featuring Greg Lawson, Phil Alexander and Mario Caribé, is a blend of tango, klezmer and jazz. In opera, you’ll find Opera Queensland’s production of Orpheus and Eurydice in association with Australian contemporary circus company Circa, who are
joined by the Scottish Chamber Orchestra and a chorus from Scottish Opera. There’s also the UK premiere of Huang Ruo’s reimagining of ancient Chinese myth Book of Mountains and Seas, featuring the Danish choir, Ars Nova Copenhagen. In the contemporary music section, don’t miss jazz saxophonist, spoken word poet, and activist Alabaster DePlume (Fri 8 Aug), Scottish singer-songwriter Kathryn Joseph (Sat 9 Aug), American composer, performer and producer Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Sat 16 Aug), and Grammy-winning jazz bassist Endea Owens (Sun 24 Aug).
DANCE, PHYSICAL THEATRE & CIRCUS
Besides music, the International Festival boasts a really interesting programme of dance, ranging from local companies to international choreographers. In The Dan Daw Show, the Australian dancer fuses sexy choreography and touching theatricality to take a stand against ableism, while in Dance People, Lebanese-French dance company Maqamat presents an interactive dance performance in the Old College Quad. Mary, Queen of Scots is Scottish Ballet’s retelling of the story of one of Scotland’s most famous women, and Crystal Pite and Simon McBurney unite with Nederlands Dans Theater for Figures in Extinction, confronting the climate crisis through movement and sound.
At the Fringe, Dance Base have once again joined forces with Assembly this year to create Assembly @ Dance Base, with 29 shows from 13 countries. Highlights include through warm temperatures, a merging of Mele Broomes’ choreography and vocals, with Simone Seales’ live cello and electronic soundscapes; Kathryn Gordon: A Journey of Flight, an immersive 50-minute dance performance created in Shetland and inspired by the migration of birds; and
Photo: Hugo Glendinning
The Dan Daw Show
Stepping In... Spilling Out, Mark Bleakley’s collaboration with French percussionist Rémy Gouffault – all part of the Made in Scotland showcase. Also at Dance Base, in Score three performers’ muscles are involuntarily activated, allowing choreography to be driven by computational code, exploring the impact of technology on nature and human life.
At Assembly Hall, the Copenhagen Collective’s The Genesis unites 17 internationals for an hourlong jaw-dropping acrobatic and heartfelt storytelling performance, while Circa: Wolf at Underbelly’s Circus Hub on the Meadows is described as ‘a gasp-inducing acrobatic thrill ride.’ Over at Pleasance at EICC, Champions explores parent-child relationships, homophobia and grief, within a scenography that comes to life.
At Summerhall, Balfour Reparations is Farah Saleh’s fascinating performance lecture, which examines the UK’s colonial legacy in Palestine, reflecting on a fictive apology letter issued by the UK in 2025 promising reparations to the
Palestinian people. Ruxandra Cantir’s Pickled Republic is a surreal theatrical cabaret for adults with puppetry, masks and vegetables, while Nick Nikolaou’s Anatomy of a Night is an exploration of personal identity through a reflection of memories from queer and club spaces. On a similar theme, at Zoo, check out Small Town Boys, which follows a young man as he embarks on a thrilling journey from his small hometown to the big city’s vibrant LGBTQ+ scene. Meanwhile, at the same venue, Women in Socks and Sandals explores what happens when women enter a world created by men.
CABARET
If you’re looking for a guaranteed good time, head on over to the cabaret section of the Fringe programme, where you’ll find party-starters and dancefloor divas. Dangerous Goods at Assembly George Square Gardens features a world-class line-up of circus, aerials, drag, burlesque, and power vocals from intersectional feminist theatre disruptors Polytoxic, which also includes artists from the
Photo: Maria Falconer
Small Town Boys
EDINBURGH
previous smash-hit Hot Brown Honey At the same venue, check out Frisky’s Reshuffle, in which Frisky (of Frisky & Mannish) presents her debut solo adventure, which promises a genre-spanning live music extravaganza. At Assembly Checkpoint, Tomáš Kantor’s debut Sugar is about a gender-queer twink who discovers there’s money to be made from transactional relationships, with songs by everyone from Kylie to Chappell Roan. Meanwhile, at Assembly George Square, Dream Space, part of the Korean Season, is an immersive island adventure with puppetry, music and movement, and at the Gilded Balloon Patter House, Sink or SING! invites the audience to join in with the ultimate interactive singing party led by Australia’s international vocal coach, songwriter and performer Amelie Peters. At Underbelly’s Circus Hub on the Meadows, Bernie Dieter is back with her Club Kabarett, featuring circus, gender-bending aerial, fire-breathing and more, accompanied by her fantastic house band. And STARDUST Starring Star Dust (In Person) at Underbelly Bristo Square is the debut from Punchdrunk’s Kat McGarr, which follows
a cabaret meltdown with power ballads, sing-alongs, and more. In Moonage Rhapsody at the Voodoo Rooms, cabaret artist Aidan Sadler teams up with Soho virtuoso Natasha Panas for an exuberant love letter to the work of David Bowie and Freddie Mercury.
KIDS
For the little ones, there’s always so much to choose from across the programme, whether you’re after shows for tiny babies or something entertaining for older kids. We’d recommend Jody Kamali’s Mr Sleepybum’s Dream Machine at Assembly Roxy, which was the winner of the Best Kids Show at Leicester Comedy Festival 2025. The show follows Mr Sleepybum, a man who stru les to dream, so he invents a machine that magically brings dreams to life. Also at the same venue, The Unlikely Friendship of Feather Boy and Tentacle Girl is a touching story of a girl who wants to be a monster and a boy who wants to fly, with stunning aerial feats by Vee Smith and Sadiq Ali. At Assembly George Square, the hilarious New Zealand performer
Photo: J Jackson Ducasse
Trygve Wakenshaw presents Monsterrrr!; The Listies are back with Make Some Noise; and The Box Show features drumming, dance, comedy and more, using nothing but recycled junk and the human body.
At the Pleasance Courtyard, You’re an Instrument!, is an all-ages family show and musical science experiment exploring the history of sound and music, where anything and everything becomes a musical instrument. Meanwhile, You’ll See…, part of the 2025 Culture Ireland Edinburgh Showcase, sees James Joyce’s epic story of one day in one city brought to life for audiences aged eight and upwards, with live performance, intricate paper design and an original score. Also for a similar age group, GO! at Zoo Southside combines contemporary dance, martial arts and digital technology, and A.L.Ex and the ImproBots: How to Train Your Robot at Gilded Balloon Patter House is fast-paced science theatre for the whole family with real robots, games and storytelling.
At Underbelly, The Mequetrefo is another family-friendly show mixing pantomime and clowning, created by renowned Brazilian theatre and circus company, Parlapatões. And for a guaranteed laugh, head to Laughing Horse @ The Counting House for Olaf Falafel’s Stupidest Super Stupid Show – New Improved Recipe, where comedian and children’s author Olaf Falafel serves up drawing, jokes and possibly a poo on a pogo stick.
FILM & ART
The Edinburgh International Film Festival is back under new leadership from CEO and Festival Director Paul Ridd and Festival Producer Emma Boa. This year’s festival runs from 14-20 August and though the full programme is still to be announced at the time of writing, Eva Victor’s acclaimed comedy-drama SORRY, BABY will open the festival in August. Elsewhere on
the programme, there’s the world premiere of Ben Wheatley’s new film BULK, which will mark the opening night of the Festival’s Midnight Madness strand, and Paul Sng’s immersive documentary REALITY IS NOT ENOUGH, about Trainspotting author Irvine Welsh, will be the Closing Night film.
The Edinburgh Art Festival is also back this year from 7-24 August with another packed programme of exhibitions, events, discussions and collaborations. The festival is spread out across the city and beyond, with a range of newly commissioned works and for the first time, an EAF Pavilion, located at Outer Spaces on Leith Street. In the exhibition space, Lewis Hetherington and CJ Mahony present who will be remembered here, a tender film which draws intimate connections between Scottish queer people across the span of Scottish history. JUPITER RISING X EAF is also back again on Sat 16 August in the stunning
Photo: Charlotte Cullen
Linder Sterling
landscape of Jupiter Artland, with a line-up including artist Jonathan Baldock, Queer as Folklore writer Sacha Coward, TAAHLIAH and Ponyboy. The festival itself will open with Linder’s A kind of glamour about me at the Royal Botanic Garden, a new performance in collaboration with choreographer Holly Blakey, composer Maxwell Sterling and fashion designer Ashish Gupta. Lewis Walker, meanwhile, presents their new work, Bornsick, on 23 August, which is an autobiographical narrative reflecting the idea that we inherit illness.
At Dovecot Studios, IKEA: Magical Patterns looks at six decades of groundbreaking textile design by IKEA and at Stills Centre for Photography, you’ll find an extensive collection from Siân Davey’s series, The Garden, presented in Scotland for the first time. Edinburgh Printmakers will display the work of Aqsa Arif, whose printmaking, textile, sculpture and film explores elements of Pakistani folklore.
BOOKS
This year’s Edinburgh International Book Festival runs from 9-24 August, returning to the Edinburgh Futures Institute with 641 writers from 35 countries, across six continents. The programme takes on topics such as geopolitics, disinformation, and the climate emergency, with ‘Repair’ as the core theme for 2025, which will be tackled by the likes of Robert Macfarlane, Louise Welsh, Monica Feria-Tinta, Omar El Akkad, Katie Kitamura and Yiyun Li.
The Front List series, a partnership between the Book Festival and Underbelly, is back for its second year at McEwan Hall, with names including Ma ie O’Farrell, Ta-Nehisi Coates, Nicola Sturgeon, Yulia Navalnaya, Ian McEwan, R F Kuang, Ally McCoist, Ruth Jones, Butter author Asako Yuzuki, Mark Kermode and guest Brian
Cox. International fiction is well represented across the programme, with Korea’s Hwang Sok-yong, Ukraine’s Andrey Kurkov, Spain’s Javier Cercas, China’s Liu Zhenyun, Brazil’s Cacica Juma Xipaia, France’s Laurent Binet, Aotearoa-New Zealand’s Becky Manawatu, and Germany’s Daniel Kehlman all on the bill. Elsewhere, the Book Festival’s Spiegeltent is back with poetry, spoken word, music and more, providing some late-night fun for festival-goers. Highlights include a brand-new commission from local indie music marvel Hamish Hawk reinterpreting the eccentric work of Ivor Cutler; a Frankenstein-themed cabaret; a collaboration between Esther Swift and Jackie Kay; plus performances from Callum Easter, Mallachy Tallack, Simone Seales, and Mele Broomes. As well as the Festival’s main base at EFI and the Front List events at McEwan Hall, there are also special offerings to check out at Elliott’s Studio, the
Photo: Stephen Murphy
Hamish Hawk
FILMHOUSE
Rod White, the Programme Director at the newly reopened Filmhouse, gives us the lowdown on his favourite things about Scotland’s capital city
Filmhouse, 88 Lothian Rd
filmhouse.org.uk
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for you?
Two things really: a group I’m involved with were able to secure UK Government funding to resurrect and refurbish Edinburgh’s beloved Filmhouse; and Leeds United’s promotion back to the Premiership!
What’s coming up in the future for you?
I might not have a lot of time for much of anything beyond playing my part in (re)making Filmhouse the essential film-lovers destination in Scotland!
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Areas, attractions, walks etc? Well, obviously Filmhouse for fun and enlightenment. Also Blackford Hill and the Dalmeny Estate for walks.
Favourite place to eat?
That changes regularly, but my new favourite place would be PIGGS in Bruntsfield; and a special mention for Yamato in Tollcross. I was devastated when The Grain Store on Victoria Street closed last year.
Favourite place to drink?
The Blue Blazer on Spittal Street is the pub to which I will always return…
Why do you like living here?
Because you can walk everywhere, in generally in very attractive surroundings. And, of course, because Filmhouse is here.
What annoys you about living here? It rains too much, and the traffic has made a jaywalker of me.
Do you have an Edinburgh festivals survival tip?
Mmm... Stay west of Lothian Road for the entire month of August. And never get on a city centre bus during that same period!
Image: courtesy of the Filmhouse
Have a day free? Keen to see more?
Edinburgh’s the perfect starting point for a delve into the rest of the country
Words: Laurie Presswood
THE BRIDGES AT SOUTH QUEENSFERRY
South Queensferry, on the banks of the Forth, houses the southern half of three enormous bridges – stand underneath the Forth Rail Bridge feeling small and quake in your boots every time a train rumbles overhead. Enjoy a sit-down meal at Scotts Bar & Restaurant or a chippie/deep fried pizza on Newhalls Rd, followed by a pint in The Ferry Tap. Keep an eye out for the Burryman, a local man covered entirely in burrs who is celebrated every year on the second Friday of August – incidentally, you can add him on Facebook.
Travel: Trains go from Waverley to Dalmeny station three times an hour
CROSS THE CRAMOND CAUSEWAY
For a slice of the outdoors that is readily accessible and doesn’t ask much of your legs, visit Cramond Island, a tidal island in the Firth of Forth with a history of human occupation stretching back to the prehistoric era. Text CRAMOND to 81400 to get the day’s safe crossing times from the RNLI.
Travel: Catch the 47 bus at the west end of Princes Street and get off at Cramond Place
A NIGHT OUT IN GLASGOW
Start with an afternoon wander around Glasgow Cathedral and the Necropolis (great for fans of gothic architecture as well as Robert Pattinson's The Batman).
Image: courtesy of Forever Edinburgh
Cramond Island
WE’RE ELECTR C
Travel across Edinburgh, direct to Murrayfield Stadium!
Discover top attractions across our network
THERE’S LOTS AND LOTS FOR YOU TO SEE THERE’S LOTS AND LOTS FOR YOU TO DO
Next grab a table at new (and freshly Bib Gourmand-ed) Mediterranean restaurant Margo – or if it’s a spur of the moment trip, opt for the more casual, no-reservation-necessary Sugo Pasta. Finally, sample some of Glasgow’s famed nightlife on Sauchiehall Street. Alternatively, you might want to organise your trip around a specific gig or clubnight – check out The Skinny’s Music and Clubs listings to see what’s on in Glasgow this month.
Travel: The quick train to Glasgow Queen Street runs from Waverley every half hour – the journey should take around 50 minutes so check the arrival time before boarding. You can get a return ticket or, if it’s a late one, jump on any of the hourly buses that leave from Buchanan Bus Station throughout the night.
SURF’S UP (IN A FORMER QUARRY )
If you like the sound of surfing but aren’t ready for the ocean just yet, you can hit the waves (or book a beginner’s lesson) at Lost Shore Surf Resort, Europe’s largest wave pool, housed in a former quarry. Warm yourself back up afterwards with pizza onsite from Civerinos. (For extra points why not start the day off across the road in Edinburgh Leisure’s Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, also the largest in Europe)
Travel: You’ll need to get two buses to access Ratho from the city centre – most likely the 25 or 34 followed by the 70. Be aware that the route ends in a 25-minute walk so probably best not to bring your own board.
Photo: Abbie Tanner
A WALK IN THE PENTLANDS
The Pentland Hills have a grade of walk for every level of outdoorsman. The West Kip, East Kip & Scald Law Circular delivers views for those up for a challenge – but right at the start of the route lies Harlaw Reservoir. Stick around here for an easy, peaceful stroll.
Travel: Get the 44 bus from the city centre all the way to Cockburn Crescent
TANTALLON CASTLE AND THE SHOPS AT NORTH BERWICK
Hit up Tantallon Castle if you’re excited by the drama of a ruined 14th-century fortress standing on the cliffs of East Lothian. On the way home stop off for a nosey around North Berwick, starting with lunch and a hot beverage at Steampunk Coffee and wine shopping for the evening at Lockett Bros. If your legs can handle it, top it all off with a walk up the conical shaped Berwick Law.
Travel: The train to North Berwick leaves from Waverley once an hour. Once there, walk to Lady Jane Road and get the 120 bus to Tantallon Castle.
A SUNNY AFTERNOON IN DUNDEE
Straight off the train catch an exhibition at the V&A Dundee or artist-run gallery Generator Projects. Mosey on up Perth Road, starting with lunch at casual dining spot Eastfield, followed by shopping for the carefully curated works of local designers at Kist and a drink at local institution the Speedwell Bar (fka Mennies), with plenty opportunities to cafe-hop in between.
Travel: Get the train from Waverley in less than 90 minutes
WHISKY GALORE
If you want to make a day out of a love for whisky, try the Arbikie Highland Estate, just south of Montrose. Not only do they offer the standard tour and tasting, the tour also takes in their crop fields, where the whisky you’ll soon be drinking began. Have lunch there before the tour to line your stomach, and afterwards descend to the gorgeous Lunan Bay Beach, Angus’s worst-kept secret. It’s perfect for walking, sunbathing, and swimming, but maybe not after that dram…
Travel: Get the train up the east coast to Arbroath, and there jump on the number 30 bus to Court hill Road End – all in all the journey takes two and a half hours in each direction
A RIDE THROUGH GLENCOE
Hear us out – this one may not be for the faint of heart, but it is possible. The new route on the electric (not to mention comfortable) Ember bus drops you right in the lap of one of the most breathtaking pieces of landscape Scotland has to offer. If you’re not a seasoned walker, make for the Creag Dubh viewpoint via the Glencoe Chairlift to take in your surroundings from a vantage point. Bring a packed lunch, or stop by Kingshouse Hotel for a sit down meal and the chance to pet some deer.
Travel: The aforementioned Ember bus takes around three hours from George Street to Glencoe Mountain Resort – this day will necessarily entail an early start or a late return
Photo: Walter Frehner
DRINKS
Artisan Roast
57 Broughton St
138 Bruntsfield Pl
72-74 Leith Walk
100A Raeburn Pl 36
Athletic Arms
1-3 Angle Park Ter 29
Beatnik
2 Brougham Pl 13
Bellfield Brewery
46 Stanley Pl 32
Bennets Bar
8 Leven St 29
Bing Tea
37 W Nicolson St 36
The Blackbird
37-39 Leven St 31
The Blue Blazer
2 Spittal St 29
The Bow Bar
80 W Bow 29
Bramble
16A Queen St 35
Cafe Royal
19 West Register St 9
Cairngorm Coffee
1 Melville Pl 36
Campervan Taproom
112 Jane St 32
Chancho
7 Bernard St 35
Cult Espresso
104 Buccleuch St 36
The Devil's Advocate
9 Advocate's Cl 31
Dragonfly
52 West Port 35
Dreadnought
72 N Fort St 29
The False Widow
159 Constitution St 31
The Finch 2-4 Bath Road 10
Fortitude
4 Abbey Mount
66 Hamilton Pl
72 Newington Rd 36
George IV Bar
54 George IV Bridge 29
Guildford Arms
1 West Register St 9
Hey Palu
49 Bread St 35
Hula
94A Fountainbridge
103-105 West Bow 36
Leith Depot
138-142 Leith Walk 31
Lost in Leith
82 Commercial St 32
Lovecrumbs
155 West Port 36
Lucky Liquor Co.
39A Queen St 35
Malt & Hops
45 Shore 29
Nauticus
142 Duke St 35
Newbarns
13 Jane St 32
Nótt
13 Crighton Pl 35
Nobles
44A Constitution St 10
Old Pal
28 West Maitland St 35
Paradise Palms
41 Lothian St 31
Port O' Leith
58 Constitution St 14
Port of Leith Distillery
11 Whisky Quay 32
The Royal Dick
1 Summerhall 32
The Royal Oak
1 Infirmary St 13
Salt Horse
57-61 Blackfriars St 32
Sandy Bell's 25 Forrest Rd 13
Sheep Heid Inn 43-45 The Causeway 12
Smith & Gertrude
26 Hamilton Pl 36
The Source
4 Spittal St 36
Spry
1 Haddington Pl 36
The Street
2b Picardy Pl 14
St Vincent 11 St Vincent St 29
Teuchters Bar & Bunker
26 William St 29
Teuchter's Landing 1c Dock Pl 14
Vessel
73 Hanover St 35
Victoria Bar
265 Leith Walk 14
Voodoo Rooms
19a West Register St 9
Wee Vault
7A W Maitland St 32
Williams & Johnson
1 Customs Wharf 36
FOOD
71 Steps
22 Rodney St 17
Africano Wrap Place
4 Chapel St 17
Alby’s
94 Buccleuch St
8 Portland Pl 18
Babyfaced Baker
341 Leith Walk 15
Bánh Mì Brothers 141 West Port 18
The Bearded Baker
46 Rodney St 15
Chennai’s Marina
54 Clerk St
192 Dalry Rd 22
Chez Jules
109 Hanover St 22
Company Bakery
6 Station Rd, Musselburgh 18
Edinburgh Larder
15 Blackfriars St 54-56 Morningside Rd 17
Edinburgh Street Food Leith St 18
Eleanore 30-31 Albert Pl 22
The Fishmarket Newhaven 23A Pier Pl 18
Greek Artisan Pastries
32-34 Portobello High S 23 Bread St t 18
Ground Floor
125 Great Junction St 18
Hank's 162 Fountainbridge 17
Harkness Pies 30B Raeburn Pl 18
Hula 94A Fountainbridge 103-105 West Bow 17
Kampong Ah Lee 28 Clerk St 22
Kim’s Mini Meals 5 Buccleuch St 22 Konj 15-17 Grindlay St 22 Kukina 356 Leith Walk 15 Kvasa 101 Leith Walk 17 La Barrantine 10 Bruntsfield Pl 202 Bruntsfield Pl 27B Raeburn Pl 98 W Bow 15
Lannan 29-35 Hamilton Pl 18
Little Capo 18 Howe St 22
Lovecrumbs 155 West Port 18
Mary’s Milk Bar 19 Grassmarket 20
Montrose 1-7 Montrose Ter 22
Moo Pie Gelato 26 St Mary's St 20
Mootz General Store
62 Raeburn Pl 20
Muna's Ethiopian Cuisine 8 Gillespie Pl 22
Noodles Home
14a Nicolson St 22
Noto
47a Thistle St 25
The Original Mosque
Kitchen & Cafe
50 Potterrow 20
The Palmerston
1 Palmerston Pl 25
The Pantry
1 North West Circus Pl 17
The Pastry Section
143 Great Junction St
86 Raeburn Pl 15
Paz Taqueria
64 Thistle St 25
Piemaker
38 South Bridge 15
The Pitt
20 W Shore Rd 20
Polentoni
38 Easter Rd 20
Pomelo
27 Sciennes Rd 25
Preacher's
24-26 Lady Lawson St 17
Project Canelé
150 Dundas St 20
Razzo Pizza Napolitana
59 Great Junction St
Edinburgh Street Food, Leith St 20
Roseleaf
23-24 Sandport Pl 17
Sabzi
162 Ferry Rd 25
San Ciro’s
148 Leith Walk 25
Sicilian Pastry Shop
14-16 Albert St 20
Singapore Coffee House
5 Canonmills 17
Skua
49 St Stephen St 25
Snax
118 Buccleuch St
15-17 West Register St 17
Stockbridge Eating House
7 St Stephen St 25
Stockbridge Market
Saunders St 15
Taco Libre
3 Shandwick Pl
85 Rose St 25
Tasty Buns
67 Bread St 15
Tipo
110 Hanover St 25
Twelve Triangles
90 Brunswick St
9 Comley Bank Rd
50 Dalry Rd
148 Duke St
22-24 Easter Rd
414 Morningside Rd
300 Portobello High St 20
GALLERIES
Agitate 20 Castle Ter 62
Bard
1 Customs Wharf 61
City Art Centre
2 Market St 61
Collective
City Observatory, 38 Calton Hill 61
Dovecot
10 Infirmary St 61
Edinburgh Printmakers
Castle Mills, 1 Dundee St 61
Edinburgh Sculpture
Workshop 21 Hawthornvale 61
Embassy
10B Broughton St Ln 62
Fruitmarket
45 Market St 61
Ingleby Gallery 33 Barony St 62
Inverleith House
Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row 61
Jupiter Artland
Bonnington House, Wilkieston 62
Sett Studios
127 Leith Walk 62
Stills
23 Cockburn St 61
Talbot Rice Gallery
University of Edinburgh, South Bridge 61
Unlimited Corporation
77 Brunswick St 62
GREEN SPACES
Arthur's Seat
Holyrood Park 49
Blackford Hill
Blackford Hill 12
Braid Hills
Braid Rd 12
Calton Hill
Calton Hill 49
Colinton Tunnel
Colinton Dell, Lanark Rd 52
Craiglockhart Hill Colinton Rd 52
Cramond Cramond 12
Dean Village
Dean Path 52
Jupiter Artland
Bonnington House, Wilkieston 52
The Meadows
Melville Dr 50
Pentlands
Pentland Hills
Regional Park 52
Portobello Beach
Portobello 52
Princes Street Gardens
Princes St 49
Royal Botanic Garden
20a Inverleith Row 50
Saughton Gardens
Balgreen Rd 52
Union Canal
Edinburgh Quay 114
The Water of Leith Walkway various 52
INDIE SHOPS
Agitate
20 Castle Ter 39
An Independent Zebra 88-92 Raeburn Pl 39
Argonaut Books 15-17 Leith Walk 43
Armchair Books
72-74 West Port 43
Armstrong's
81-83 Grassmarket 15
Assai Records
1 Grindlay St 44, 67
Avalanche Records
Waverley Mall 44
The Beer Cave
43 Dalry Rd 39
The Beerhive
24 Rodney St 39
Black Moon Botanica
50 Candlemaker Row 39
Broughton Street Flowers
87 Broughton St 40
Cork and Cask
136 Marchmont Rd 39
Cornelius
18 Easter Rd
128 Leith Walk 40
Curiouser & Curiouser
106 Bruntsfield Pl
93 Broughton St 39
Flamingosaurus Rex
22 Bruntsfield Pl 39
George Mewes
3 Dean Park St 40
Ginger and Pickles
51 St Stephen St 43
Golden Hare Books
68 St Stephen St 43
Good Vibes Neighbourhood Store & Studios 151-153
Constitution St 44, 65
Great Grog
2 Dalkeith Rd 40
Green Meadows
137 Buccleuch St 40
Grow Urban
8B St Vincent St 40
Handsel
336 Leith Walk 39
You must Tap-Off to only pay the cheapest adult daily city zone fare, otherwise an airport zone fare will be charged.
I.J. Mellis
30 Victoria St
6 Bakers Pl
330 Morningside Rd 40
Lighthouse Bookshop
43-45 W Nicolson St 43
Logan Malloch
13 Leith Walk 39
Lupe Pintos
24 Leven St 40
McNaughtan's Bookshop
3A, 4a Haddington Pl 13
Moss & Fern
84 South Clerk St 43
Out Of the Blue Drill Hall
36 Dalmeny St 15
The Portobello Bookshop
46 Portobello High St 43
Rare Bird Books
13 Raeburn Pl 43
Red Door Gallery
42 Victoria St 39
Rose and Ammi Flowers
2 Gillespie Cres 43
Salt Horse
57 Blackfriars St 40
Slow Progress
52 Blackfriars St 44
Thorne Records
125 Bruntsfield Pl 44, 67
Tills Bookshop
1 Hope Park Cres 44
Topping & Company
2 Blenheim Pl 44
Typewronger
4a Haddington Pl 44
Umbrella Vinyl
20 Valleyfield St 44
Underground Solu'shn
9 Cockburn St 44
VoxBox Music
21 St Stephen St 44
Winekraft
6 Brandon Ter 40
VENUES
Assembly Checkpoint
3 Bristo Pl 94
Assembly @ Dance Base
14-16 Grassmarket 90
Assembly George Square George Sq 83
Assembly Hall Mound Pl 93
Assembly Roxy
2 Roxburgh Pl 88
Bannermans
212 Cowgate 67
Banshee Labyrinth 29-35 Niddry St 67
The Biscuit Factory 4-6 Anderson Pl 77
The Bongo Club
66 Cowgate 67, 77
Cabaret Voltaire
36-38 Blair St 67
Cameo Cinema
38 Home St 14
The Caves 8-10 Niddry St S 67
Dance Base 14-16 Grassmarket 90
Dovecot
10 Infirmary St 98
Dynamic Earth Holyrood Rd 98
Edinburgh Castle Castlehill 71
Edinburgh Futures Institute
1 Lauriston Pl 98
The French Institute W Parliament Sq 88
Gilded Balloon Patter House 3 Chambers St 94
The Hive 15-17 Niddry St 77
Jupiter Artland Bonnington House, Wilkieston 97
Just the Tonic @ The Caves 253 Cowgate 83
La Belle Angele
11 Hastie's Cl 67, 88
Leith Depot 138-142 Leith Walk 65
Leith FAB Cricket Club 1 Leith Links 65
The Liquid Room 9C Victoria St 67
The Lyceum
30b Grindlay St 8, 14
King's Theatre
2 Leven St 14
The Mash House
37 Guthrie St 77
McEwan Hall Teviot Pl 98
Monkey Barrel Comedy 9-12 Blair St 84
National Library of Scotland
George IV Bridge 98
Old College Quad Old College, South Bridge 90
Outer Spaces
45 Leith St 97
Paradise Palms 41 Lothian St 77
Pleasance Courtyard 60 Pleasance 97
Pleasance Dome
5/2 Bristo Pl 88
Pleasance @ EICC
150 Morrison St 93
The Queen's Hall 85-59 Clerk St 71, 87
Royal Botanic Garden 20a Inverleith Row 87
The Royal Highland Centre Ingliston 71
Safari Lounge 21 Cadzow Pl 65
Settlement Projects 34A Haddington Pl 65
Sneaky Pete's 73 Cowgate 67, 77
The Stand Comedy Club 5 York Pl 84
The Storytelling Centre 43-45 High St 87
Subway 69 Cowgate 77
Summerhall 1 Summerhall 84
Traverse Theatre
10 Cambridge St 87
Udderbelly: upside-down
purple cow
George Sq Gardens 83
Underbelly Circus Hub
The Meadows 93
Underbelly Cowgate
66 Cowgate 87
Underbelly Bristo Square
Teviot Pl 94
Usher Hall Lothian Rd 71
ZOO Playground
High School Yards 88
ZOO Southside
117 Nicolson St 97
VISITOR ATTRACTIONS
Camera Obscura & World of Illusions
549 Castlehill 52
Commonwealth Pool 21 Dalkeith Rd 14
Dalry Swim Centre
25-29 Caledonian Cres 14
Dynamic Earth
Holyrood Rd 50
Edinburgh Castle
Castlehill 49
Edinburgh Zoo
134 Corstorphine Rd 55
Glenogle Swim Centre
Glenogle Rd 14
Greyfriar's Kirkyard
Greyfriar's Pl 50
Mary King's Close
2 Warriston Cl 50
National Museum of Scotland
Chamber St 49
Scott Monument
E. Princes St Gardens 49
Surgeons' Hall
Nicolson St 50
St Cuthbert's Kirk
5 Lothian Rd 49
Turkish Baths
@ Portobello Swim Centre
57 The Promenade 14
A UNION CANAL SWAN
We catch up with one of the most attractive but intimidating Edinburgh residents: the radge swan that lives on the Union Canal
Who are you and what do you do?
I’m the Lord of the Union Canal. I like to eat the offerings the local peasants bring my way. Sometimes I like to attack cyclists who get too close to my cygnets.
What’s been a highlight of the last 12 months for you?
There was this hilarious stooshie between an eccentric Fountainbridge bloke with an earring who was feeding me wholemeal pitta breads and a Polwarth cyclist who was passing by and insisted I preferred porridge. This all took place while a Corstorphine family looked on. Humans are strange. I thought about breaking one of their arms, but I was distracted by the delicious pitta.
What’s coming up in the future for you?
I’m looking forward to terrorising comedians who’ll be commuting to town along the canal this Fringe.
Where do you recommend people go in Edinburgh?
Well, come feed me and my cygnets, obviously. Or visit one of my swan pals around town – there’s a lovely bevy down by the Water of Leith.
Favourite place to eat?
Food usually rains down on me from passersby. In saying that, the comedian Sam Lake (whom I once confused for a body of water) told me the Mosque Kitchen is handy if you’re looking for a speedy dinner between Fringe shows.
Favourite place to drink?
My preferred tipple is murky canal water, but the Roseleaf is good if I’m ever visiting that bevy of swans down in Leith. Although I prefer its former name: The Black Swan.
Favourite shop?
I think a lot of the food I’m given comes from the Margiotta in Shandon, so I’ll go with that.
Why do you like living here?
The bountiful food offerings that rain down upon me, and the ample opportunities I get to break the arms of passersby.
What annoys you about living here?
All the rubbish people drop into the canal. If I step on one more rusty shopping cart, I think I’m gonna honk.
Do you have an Edinburgh festivals survival tip?
Don’t get too close to my cygnets and you’ll be fine. Also: Berocca.
