The Skinny Guide to Glasgow 2022

Credits

Rosamund West Editor-in-Chief

THE SKINNY

Tallah Brash Music Editor

4

Peter Simpson Digital Editor, Food & Drink Editor

Eilidh Akilade Intersections Editor

Anahit Behrooz Events Editor

Jamie Dunn Film Editor, Online Journalist

Eliza Gearty Theatre Editor

Tara Hepburn Glasgow Venues Editor

Tony Inglis Writer

Nadia Younes Clubs Editor

Dalila D'Amico Art Director, Production Manager

Phoebe Willison Designer

Sandy Park Commercial Director

Tom McCarthy Creative Projects Manager

George Sully Sales and Brand Strategist

Laurie Presswood General Manager

Lewis Robertson Digital Editorial Assistant

Christian Gow Marketing & Commercial Assistant

Welcome his is the second edition of The Skinny Guide to Glasgow, designed to help you find your way around Scotland’s biggest (some might say best) city, and share a few of the places that locals and regular visitors love to go. It was created by the team behind The Skinny, who also produce a free monthly magazine covering all things cultural, which you should be able to find in venues throughout the city. Scan the code below for a list of distribution points.

We have (to some controversy) split the city into eight areas, to offer a taste of the different characters of Glasgow as you move through it, as well as detailed recommendations on where to go. These recommendations draw on the knowledge of local people, and have been freshly updated for 2022. The map outlines the areas, and you can follow the QR code to a Google map to find each and every recommended location while you’re walking around the city.

We’ve compiled a rundown of essential Glasgow recommendations, from the Necropolis (Batman’s favourite

graveyard) to David Shrigley’s screaming embodiment of the sun, via music festivals, museums and a highland coo, in the new Heads Up section.

If you’re looking to see some more of Scotland, our daytrips guide provides some inspiration and tips to explore beyond the city boundaries.

Visiting with kids? We’ve got you covered with recommendations of places to go explore, swim, learn, run around, eat pizza… illustrated by actual Glaswegian children.

Our cultural guide delves into Glasgow’s history of pioneering electronic music, focuses on a few of the city’s record stores and community radio stations, and meets the people behind Glasgow Zine Library to discover why this city is the perfect home for radical action. We talk to the Coalition for Racial Equality and Rights about their walking tour mapping Glasgow’s history with colonialism, slavery, and abolition.

Finally, we close with a bingo card – dabbers at the ready to run the streets and collect all our Glasgow art highlights.

Welcome

T

Illustration Nänni-Pää is primarily an illustrator with a linear, isometric and minimal style of drawing. She examines everyday experiences and picks up on several simultaneous moments that pose as layers in her work.

She founded The Woom Room – a shop in Glasgow that sells artist-made prints, jewellery and clothing.

Find your nearest copy of our free monthly magazine, The Skinny, here:

Glasgow City Guide

@nanni_paa nannipaa.bigcartel.com

5

Contents

5 Welcome ­— 10 Map — 12 Heads Up: Essential Glasgow highlights

Area-by-area

18 City Centre

by Tallah Brash

34 West End

by Peter Simpson

24 Merchant City & Trongate

by Jamie Dunn

30 East End

by Tony Inglis

41 North

by Laurie Presswood

THE SKINNY

44 Finnieston & Partick

by Tony Inglis

6

49 Southside

by Eliza Gearty

54 Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan

by Tara Hepburn

Glasgow City Guide

7

Cultural guide

Contents

56 Daytrips! We take a closer look at some of our favourite places to visit outside of Glasgow including islands, castles and other Scottish cities within easy reach 62 A brief history of Glasgow’s electronic music pioneer, Janet Beat

Image: courtesy Radio Buena Vista

Image: British Music Collection Janet Beat

64 We spotlight a few of the indie record shops and community radio stations who help sustain Glasgow’s thriving music scene

Optimistic Soul at Radio Buena Vista

66 The Coalition for Racial Equality and Rights on anti-racism, walking through local history, and the importance of understanding Glasgow’s past Image: courtesy GZL Glasgow Zine Library

68 Glasgow for kids! Places to visit, explore, eat and play

75 A guide to Glasgow’s community arts spaces

78 Index ­— 82 Glasgow Art BINGO!

Glasgow City Guide

72 Glasgow Zine Library on the radical potential of zine-making

9

Map

W

THE SKINNY

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan

Original map courtesy of Google maps 10

Map

North

West End

Finnieston & Partick

City Centre

Merchant City

East End

Southside

Glasgow City Guide 11

Heads Up

Heads Up The Barras The Barras are a Glasgow institution. The weekend market is a wild melting pot of locals, with stalls ranging from vintage clothes and posters to antique curios and the occasional suspicious character selling ‘designer’ gear. By night, head to a gig at the Barrowland Ballroom.

It’s one of the liveliest and loveliest music venues in the country, and home to some iconic neon signage.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum This gorgeous museum is wonderfully eclectic, like dozens of galleries have been rolled into one. Fine art-heads will be in heaven thanks to an impressive collection of Scottish and European paintings, the jewel of which is Salvador Dalí’s stunning Christ of Saint John of the Cross. But there are also ancient artefacts, dinosaur bones and even a rare specimen of Scotland’s tastiest but most reclusive creatures: the haggis.

Barrowland Ballroom

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

THE SKINNY 12

King Tut’s Summer Nights / Endless Summer at The Hug & Pint Each summer two of Glasgow’s most iconic venues – The Hug & Pint in the West End and King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut in the City Centre – welcome a whole host of local talent to their stages to celebrate the artistry that’s right on their doorstep. At King Tut’s Summer Nights (14 Jul-27 Aug) and Endless Summer (10 Aug -19 Sep), chances are you might just see the next big thing.

Photo: Evgeniy Grozev

Photo: Allan Lewis

Dream Wife at King Tut's in 2017

The Necropolis

Cass McCombs at The Great Western in 2019

The Necropolis Welcome to goth Glasgow – the Cathedral is one of the city’s oldest and most impressive buildings, and to its east is the equally imposing Necropolis. It’s a sprawling Victorian graveyard with some ridiculously over-the-top tombs, some designed by great Glasgow architects like Alexander “Greek” Thomson and Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The Necropolis is so cinematically gothic, in fact, it features in The Batman.

Photo: Marilena Vlachopoulou

Image: courtesy of Kelvingrove

Summer Nights at the Bandstand One of the best ways to enjoy live music in the summer months is al fresco, and the Kelvingrove Bandstand in the West End’s Kelvingrove Park offers exactly that from 27 July to 13 August. This year’s programme includes some iconic performers like Rufus Wainwright and Pixies as well as local heroes King Creosote, The Jesus & Mary Chain and Edwyn Collins, all served up in a stylish art deco amphitheatre.

Photo: Serena Milesi

Image: courtesy of CCA

Kelvingrove Bandstand

Heads Up

Underground nightclubs, murals of local legends, sparkling parks, grassroots arts venues and Batman’s favourite graveyard – Glasgow’s a city with a bit of everything

The Great Western Set across the gig venues, bars and community spaces of the West End and Maryhill, The Great Western combines the anarchic energy of a pub crawl with some top-notch music curation. Past editions have featured Anna Meredith, Yard Act, Dry Cleaning, Free Love and too many of The Skinny’s favourite Scottish bands to list in this short paragraph. Various venues, 12 Nov Photo: Rob Walsh

Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA)

Glasgow City Guide

Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) A modern Glasgow institution, the Pollok Park Centre for Contemporary Arts’ opensource approach to programming Pollok Park and The Burrell Collection makes for a hugely diverse events list.

Can’t be arsed venturing to the Highlands? Head instead You’ll find visual, digital and sound to this huge Southside park, where you’ll find fields of art in the gallery spaces, exciting film wildflowers, wandering Highland coos and so much screenings in the cinema, regular untamed green space you’ll forget you’re in Scotland’s live music, and a host of annual arts largest city. Make time to visit the newly reopened festivals. The cafe is great, and the Burrell Collection, a stunning collection of art housed in Saramago bar has a cool outside a beautiful modernist building within the park. terrace.

13

Heads Up

Photo: Marilena Vlachopoulou

Queen’s Park Another green jewel in the Southside crown, Queen’s Park is an excellent park all year round with some fantastic cafes nearby if you fancy a picnic lunch. This summer, the Queen’s Park Arena at the heart of the park hosts a run of free screenings of classic films – Grease, Predator, The Karate Kid, Blade Runner, Rocky Horror… truly, something for everyone.

Until 1 Sep Glasgow Doors Open Day Big. Old. Buildings. Glasgow’s full of ‘em, and a lot of them are under lock and key or closed to the public for much of the year. Doors Open Day is an annual chance to get in and poke your head around some of the city’s best and most intriguing architectural spaces, from breweries to theatres to community spaces like Govanhill Baths (pictured), for free.

Glasgow Women’s Library The only resource of its kind in Scotland, Glasgow Women’s Library in the East End of the city combines a library, museum and archive of books, materials and artefacts by, for and about women. What’s more, it’s the only accredited museum of its kind in the UK dedicated to women and its collections, and events are open to the public all year round.

Queen’s Park

Glasgow Women’s Library

THE SKINNY

Kingsley Glasgow is one of Europe’s foremost football cities, but one figure towers over all others. Kingsley, the sentient Californian sun designed by Glasgow School of Art alumni David Shrigley, is the mascot of Championship side Partick Thistle. Catch him in all his yellow glory on the sidelines at Firhill Stadium in Maryhill… unless he catches you first.

14

Kingsley

Tenement Trail

Image courtesy of the artist

Image: courtest GWL

Sidsel Meineche Hansen, No Right way Transmission

Heads Up

Photo: Cameron Brisbane

Glasgow Doors Open Day

Tenement Trail Run by new music platform Tenement TV, the Tenement Trail festival offers a unique way to explore the city, as well as some of its most exciting up and coming bands. Well known for hosting some of the most raucous shows in town, expect to throw yourself around in East End venues like Barras Art and Design (BAaD), Barrowlands, St Luke’s and more. Various Venues, 8 Oct

King Street This Merchant City street is a microcosm of the Glasgow art scene. Here you’ll find the original artist-run space, Transmission, still going strong after nearly 40 years and innumerable committees. Next door is Street Level Photoworks and Glasgow Print Studio, part of the Trongate 103 multi venue exhibition space.

Sub Club Glasgow’s iconic subterranean City Centre nightclub, Sub Club – or ‘Subbie’ to locals – has been running almost non-stop since opening its doors in 1987.

Regularly putting on some of the biggest names in underground dance music, it’s where Optimo cut their teeth in the late 90s; it’s also proud to host one of the world’s longest-running house nights in Subculture.

A must for dance music fans.

Photo: Fredrika Carlsson Sub Club

Glasgow City Guide

Riverside Museum

Riverside Museum This transport museum is one of several wild modernist buildings and bridges dotted along the Clyde waterfront – the others include the OVO Hydro, the Armadillo, and the Science Centre. Inside you’ll find all you could hope to know about Glasgow’s transport history, from trains and trams to Clyde-built ships. You’ll also discover the first modern pedal-driven bicycle.

Yes, Scotland invented the modern bike. You’re welcome.

15

Advertising Feature

Image: Walnut Wasp

Who was Dr David Livingstone, and why should we care?

David Livingstone's life was full of contradictions.

He was a man of science and God. He was an abolitionist and key to the colonisation of Africa. He was celebrated as a lone pioneer but travelled with many companions. We unpick these paradoxes Interview: Jamie Dunn

THE SKINNY

“

16

When the legend becomes fact,” so the old adage goes, “print the legend.” That’s largely what happened to the Scottish explorer, missionary and abolitionist Dr David Livingstone. The stories go he battled a lion and “discovered” the Victoria Falls – although more accurately, he became the

first white European to see the majestic Mosi-oa-Tunya, which he renamed in honour of the Queen. He’s famous for being discovered himself, by journalist Henry Morton Stanley who’d been sent to find the Scot when he’d gone off-grid in Africa, greeting him with the famous line "Dr Livingstone, I presume?"

Among all this derring-do, he also tried to end the East African Slave Trade.

Like all legends, there are grains of truth to be found in the potted history above but much has been elided. Thankfully it’s become easier to unpick the various conflicting elements of

For Natalie Milor, the museum's curator, one of the Livingstone preconceptions she’s keen to quash is the romantic notion of him as a solitary pioneer. Going back to Livingstone’s diaries and expedition papers, it becomes clear that Livingstone had many companions on his adventures, both white Europeans and Africans he recruited on his travels. At times, he essentially led a small village across the continent.

David Livingstone Birthplace is open seven days a week, 10am-4pm Tickets are available at david-livingstone-birthplace.org

Glasgow City Guide

Livingstone himself has become less well-known in recent decades, in part thanks to the complexities of his legacy.

“Livingstone is seen as a very controversial figure in some respects,” says Milor, “and challenging for teachers to teach, which kind of explains

The Livingstone Birthplace Museum doesn’t sugarcoat these contradictions. His life undoubtedly caused a ripple effect across the world, and that legacy can still be seen today. It’s a story ripe for reappraisal, and one that can be used to examine all sorts of contemporary issues, from racism to climate change.

The Livingstone Birthplace Museum attempts to put this story straight by cutting through the Victorian tall tales so that his life can be properly discussed and reflected upon. “Throughout the exhibition, we outlined the good, the bad and the ugly of Livingstone’s legacy," says Milor.

"Ultimately we show he was human and full of flaws, but ultimately a man who made a difference in the world. I think that is more interesting than seeing him as an icon, really. Our job is to make sure people know and understand that there is a fuller picture, and they can make up their own mind as to whether or not they think Livingstone deserves to be on his pedestal still.”

Image: Walnut Wasp

“It has been convenient for specific people with specific political ideologies to see Livingstone through this lone explorer lens and as a lone spreader of Christianity in Southern and Central Africa,” says Milor. “A lot of our exhibition is about looking at who's missing from these narratives and showing that the story is much more interesting and relevant with everybody being represented as far as we can.”

why he's fallen out of the curriculum essentially.”

With the best intentions, Livingstone tried to open up sub-Saharan Africa for trading, working with local communities, and his pioneering work undoubtedly did contribute to the abolishment of the East African Slave Trade. But his findings in Africa were put to more sinister use after his death, with his records used by the various European powers in the 'Scramble for Africa' that saw huge parts of the continent colonised and its resources plundered. “As soon as you scratch the surface of Livingstone’s life, you do start to see these contradictions,” notes Milor.

Advertising Feature

Livingstone’s legacy thanks to the reopening last summer of the David Livingstone Birthplace in Blantyre. Located in the tenement where Livingstone lived as a boy and worked at a neighbouring mill, this redeveloped museum aims to break the various myths about Livingstone and dig into the many sides of the explorer that are still little-known.

17

City Centre Nestled in the nook of the busy M8 motorway, Glasgow’s bustling City Centre, just north of the River Clyde, can be confusing at first. But get to grips with its grid system of streets and you’ll be parading around like a local in no time.

D

uring the day, Glasgow’s City Centre is great for shopping and art. By night it comes alive with restaurants, bars, gigs and clubs aplenty, meaning you can quite literally spend the whole day in central Glasgow without even a hint of

18

boredom setting in.

It’s also the ideal jumping off point for exploring other parts of the city, with transport links always within walking distance.

City Centre

Photo: Lauren Parsons Tantrum Doughnuts

Shopping

Glasgow City Guide

out the Italian-inspired Laboratorio Espresso (93 W Nile St), serving up delicious cannoli and clean batch With three pedestrianised shopping brews alongside the usual options. thoroughfares – Buchanan Street, Near Central Station, small batch Sauchiehall Street (pronounced coffee roasters Gordon Street Coffee Sucky-hall) and Argyle Street – and (79 Gordon St) serve up excellent several shopping centres – St Enoch, pastries and coffees with their Buchanan Galleries, Princes Square, in-house roastery just upstairs. Across Argyll Arcade and The Savoy Centre the street is Riverhill Coffee Bar (24 – Glasgow’s city centre is great if Gordon St) and artisan doughnut shop you’re looking for some much-needed Tantrum Doughnuts (28 Gordon St). In retail therapy. the west of the city centre, Singl-end There’s an abundance of independent shops to be found here too. If (263 Renfrew St) offers up great coffee and cake, with lovely light brunch you’re after some local ceramics, options too.

Fireworks Studio Garnet Pots (35a For something with a bit more Dalhousie St) is a must, while bibliophiles will want to visit Aye-Aye Books punch, trendy bars and old fashioned in the CCA (350 Sauchiehall St) or the boozers can be found on literally every street, basement, back alley and tell it slant poetry bookshop (134 corner of the city centre. Near Central Renfrew St). If you’re looking to add another record to your Station, Stereo (22-28 Renfield Ln) has music collection, pop been a staple since 2007. Housed in a building designed by Charles Rennie into Love Music (34 Mackintosh, upstairs is a vegan bar Dundas St) or Fopp and restaurant while you’ll find a (19 Union St). regular gig programme in the baseDrinks ment. Across the lane, The Old Hairdresser’s is a popular bar, gig and For most, no day is gallery space, while round the corner complete without a and up the street is The Flying Duck hot cuppa, and in the (142 Renfield St). city centre caffeine The Horseshoe Bar (17-19 Drury St) fiends should seek is one for Travis fans as it’s where the

19

City Centre

Why Does It Always Rain On Me? hitmakers formed. A few minutes away is Bier Halle (9 Gordon St), a subterranean German-style beer hall with outdoor seating on Gordon Street and Buchanan Street in the summer. On Mitchell Lane, Tabac (no. 10) and Bar Soba (no. 11) are both great for fusion plates and indulgent cocktails. Cocktails can also be found nearby at Max’s Bar & Grill (73 Queen St), which houses the La Cheetah nightclub in its basement.

Basement gig venues and nightclubs can also be found in Nice N Sleazy and Broadcast at 421 and 427 Sauchiehall Street, while The Variety Bar (no. 401) and The State Bar (148-148a Holland St) are great for pre- or post-gig drinks, the latter giving a true taste of old Glasgow with a great selection of cask ales. Rock fans should head to Rufus T Firefly (207 Hope St), while across the road The Pot Still (no. 154) is a must for whisky fans with their malt of the month offering and generous 35ml measures.

cuisine in the city centre than at Non Viet (no. 536), while great Japanese food can be found at Nanakusa (no. 441). For an excellent on-the-go option Falafel To Go (no.

116) offer up affordable, fresh and super tasty wraps, while veggies and vegans alike will love the light and spacious Saramago Cafe and Bar inside the CCA (no. 350).

Away from Sauchiehall Street, for Italian cuisine head to Sarti (121 Bath St; 133 Wellington St), Pizza Punks (90 St Vincent St) or Paesano sister restaurant Sugo (70 Mitchell St); for Japanese food try Maki & Ramen (21 Bath St), for Thai head to Ting Thai Caravan (19 W Nile St) or Panang (71-73 St Vincent St) and for Korean, Bibimbap (3 W Nile St) is the one. If you’ve got a hankering for Mexican street food, go for tacos at the super kitsch and vibrant Mezcal (104 Hope St) or Topolobamba (89 St Vincent St), while burger fiends should try Bread Food Meats Bread (65 St Vincent St). Want to try a bit of everything? On Fridays As well as good drinking and gig spots, and Saturdays head to street food Sauchiehall Street is awash with great market Platform (253 Argyle St) with eateries too. You’d be hard pushed to its rotational food trucks and in-house find more authentic Vietnamese microbrewery from Innis & Gunn.

THE SKINNY

Image: courtesy of Ting Thai

20

Ting Thai

City Centre

Photo: Artur Kraft

Glasgow City Guide

21

22

THE SKINNY

City Centre

Image: courtesy of Glasgow Film Theatre Glasgow Film Theatre

Things to Do

Glasgow City Guide

the Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) (12 Rose St), the UK’s first purpose-built Despite being housed in the former arthouse theatre outside of London. townhouse of an 18th century Tobacco Opened in 1939 as the Cosmo, it Lord, the Gallery of Modern Art (111 changed its name to the GFT in 1974, Queen St) is Scotland’s most visited and almost five decades on is still modern art gallery with free exhibigoing strong with regular film screentions from local and international ings and the annual Glasgow Film artists. The award-winning Centre for Festival which returns in March 2023.

Contemporary Arts (CCA) (350 There’s also no shortage of live Sauchiehall St) is an arts hub with music venues and nightclubs diverse year-round programming, while to be found here too, with the nearby Glasgow School of Art’s several venues on Reid Building (164 Renfrew St) and Sauchiehall Street alone; the Mackintosh-designed The Lighthouse famous King Tut’s Wah Wah (11 Mitchell Ln), Scotland’s Centre for Hut (272A St Vincent St) and Design and Architecture, both host world renowned Sub Club regular exhibitions.

(22 Jamaica St) are also in Originally opened in 1903, fans of the city centre. tea will want to visit the iconic Travel Mackintosh at the Willow tea rooms (215-217 Sauchiehall St), while for a Low level trains from Glasgow Central unique slice of history, Garnethill’s Station (Gordon St) to Exhibition The Tenement House (145 Buccleuch St) offers a rare glimpse into early 20th Centre will speedily take you to the OVO Hydro on the banks of the River century life in Glasgow. Nearby, you’ll find one of the city centre’s only green Clyde, where you’ll find some of the spaces in Garnethill Park, while on its biggest names in music. Similarly, low level trains from Queen Street periphery is The Art Laundrette (39 Station (N Hanover St) are great for a Dalhousie St), a fully functioning quick jaunt to Partick and Finnieston laundrette with regular exhibitions. where you’ll find the Kelvingrove Art Home to the Scottish Opera, The Gallery and Museum and the SWG3 Theatre Royal (282 Hope St) is the music venue. In the city centre you longest running theatre in Scotland, can also hop on the 10.5km circular having opened in 1867. The Pavilion Glasgow Subway from Buchanan Theatre (121 Renfield St) and King’s Street, St Enoch Square and Theatre (297 Bath St) have packed Cowcaddens, making for easy schedules too, with big names in connections to other parts of the stand-up comedy, musicals, theatre city both north and south of the river. and more. Cinephiles should head for

23

Merchant City & Trongate Many sides of Glasgow rub up against one another in this corner of town. The lavish architecture of the Merchant City points to the prosperity of Victorianera Glasgow, a wealth that the city is just beginning to reckon with given it was built off the back of the slave trade.

T

oday the area, home to fashion boutiques and fancy cocktail bars, acts as the unofficial poster boy for the city; if you’ve ever seen a Visit Glasgow ad, chances are shots of this neighbourhood’s palatial streets and well-heeled revellers were included.

24

Marketeers rarely point their cameras south to Trongate, however. The link between the shopping thoroughfare of Argyle Street and Glasgow Cross, the historic gateway into Old Glasgow, this is where the city’s capitalistic excess recedes, giving way to the more authentic side of

town. It’s here, in the neglected corners, that artists have made their home, with some of Glasgow’s most creative venues, most adventurous galleries and most-loved independent shops found in the streets sandwiched between Trongate, Saltmarket and the River Clyde.

Merchant City & Trongate

Paesano

Merchant City Food

Drinks Merchant City is at its most lively in the evening. Venues like Merchant Square (71 Albion St) (a busy cluster of pubs in a covered courtyard) and Bar 91 (91 Candleriggs) are popular with the after-work crowd. But bars here can be pricy, so we’d point you in the direction of the more cheap and cheerful boozers on the Merchant City's periphery, like Strathduie Bar (3-5 Blackfriars St) and Babbity Bowster (16-18 Blackfriars St). Another great bar, and easily missed, is the tucked-away tapas place Brutti Compadres (3 Virginia Ct).

Merchant City is home to Glasgow’s LGBTQ+ community, with gay bars peppered across it. Katie’s Bar (17 John St), Delmonicas (68 Virginia St) and The Underground (6A John St) all guarantee a fun pre-club atmosphere while AXM (90 Glassford St) and Polo Lounge (84 Wilson St) are the big destinations where you can dance the night away. The pick of the

Glasgow City Guide

No trip to this part of town is complete without a stop at Paesano (94 Miller St), home of the tastiest Neopolitanstyle pizzas in town. It’s by no means the only Italian joint in Merchant City, though. Glance down John Street – home to relaxed Italian cafe Osteria (no. 17) and pizza joint Slice (no. 15), as well as The Italian Centre (no. 7) – on a particularly warm day and you might mistake it for Milan. For those who prefer pizza of the deep dish variety, Thundercat (86 Miller St) is introducing Glaswegians to hearty Chicagostyle pizzas.

If Paesano is Glaswegians’ favourite pizza, neighbours Piece (100 Miller St) is their best-loved sandwich place. If you’re after something less dough-based, head around the corner to Sprigg (241 Ingram St) for a tasty range of freshly-made salad bowls.

Merchant City institution Cafe Gandolfi (64 Albion St), arguably serves the best breakfast this side of the M8, but not far behind is bakehouse Singl-end (15 John St), a fave for weekend brunch. Newer on the scene is Plantyful (3 Osborne St), an all

plant-based bakery and deli that’s helping Merchant City join Glasgow’s extremely vegan-friendly food scene.

25

Merchant City & Trongate THE SKINNY 26

LGBTQ+ hangouts, however, might be The Riding Room (58 Virginia St), which is loved for its wild cabaret nights, although nightclub and arts venue Bonjour (37-45 Saltmarket), which only opened last summer, has quickly become a firm favourite.

Another adored local eatery is Cafe Cossachok (10 King St), serving up authentic Russian fare in gorgeous surroundings.

Indie shops

Ace indie record shop Monorail Music is located inside Mono, where you’ll often find co-owner Stephen Mono (12 Kings Ct, King St) and The McRobbie of The Pastels 13th Note (50-60 King St) are sister behind the counter. Comic venues with an ethos of serving book nuts, meanwhile, can delicious plant-based scran and tasty find a great selection of beers, and hosting great gigs. Closer to comics (new and vintage) and the Clyde you’ll find two even more graphic novels around the corner at well-established Glasgow boozers: The A1 Toys (31 Parnie St).

Clutha (169 Stockwell St) and The Across the arcade from Mono is Scotia (112 Stockwell St). Both reek of vintage shop Mr Ben (6 Kings Court), Glasgow history and usually have which has been keeping Glasgow some form of toe-tapping live music in scenesters stylish for decades. There the evenings. Music also runs through are also two other great second-hand the veins of Maggie May’s (60 clothing shops next door – Minted and Trongate), an always lively rock bar.

West Vintage – and within spitting If you’re after a quick bite in this distance is The City Retro Fashion (41 part of town there’s Shawarma King King St), making this corner of (113 King St); as you can probably Glasgow a fashionista’s delight. guess, shawarma is on the menu.

Trongate Food and drink

Glasgow Print Studio

South Block (60-64 Osborne St) is a similar hive of activity, combining a public ground floor gallery with studios above. New to the scene is The Established in 1983 by a group from Glasgow Gallery of Photography (57 the School of Art, Transmission Glassford St), which Gallery (28 King St) is a vital artist-run recently opened as a space supporting early-career artists. dedicated gallery for Former Edwardian warehouse photography.

Trongate 103 (103 Trongate), meanWithin Trongate 103 while, is home to several other you’ll also find important artist spaces: Street Level Sharmanka, a unique Photoworks, a dedicated photography exhibition of hundreds of gallery space; Glasgow Print Studio, tiny carved figures that which is marking its 50th anniversary perform a haunting show with an exhibition running at set to music telling Kelvingrove Museum (18 Nov-10 Mar); tragicomic tales of human and Project Ability, a gallery champiendurance. The theatricalioning local amateur artists with ty continues a few doors learning disabilities. over in a former church that’s home Key art institution The Modern to the Tron Theatre Company (63 Institute has two galleries in this part Trongate), one of the most important of town: an intimate warehouse space producers of contemporary theatre underneath a railway arch (14-20 in Scotland.

Osborne St) and an airy gallery housed City Halls & Old Fruitmarket (100 in a former glass-blowing factory (3 Candleriggs) are Merchant City’s main Aird’s Ln). The Briggait (141 hub for the arts. Once a bustling Bridgegate), a splendid Victorian market, they now play host to an array market hall, is a buzz of artistic of events and are a key venue for endeavours, featuring dozens of artist Celtic Connections (19 Jan-5 Feb studios, two exhibition spaces and a 2023) and Merchant City Festival gorgeous indoor courtyard. Nearby (28-31 Jul 2022).

Merchant City & Trongate

Merchant City & Trongate Cultural venues and art galleries

Photo: Phoebe Willison Glasgow City Guide

Celtic Connections at The Old Fruitmarket

29

East End The East End is a place where the rich tradition and history of Glasgow’s musical heritage combines with bustling, top quality independent food outlets, cool and comfortable drinking holes and, with property prices lower than to the west and south, a buzzy sense of something happening with young people congregating there.

C

onnected by the long stretch of Duke Street, Glasgow’s East End, once vaunted for a significant uplift by the 2014 Commonwealth Games, has instead grown in a more organic way. Stretching from the Gallowgate to Dennistoun and beyond the football stadium at Parkhead, it retains its sense of

30

community spirit, with the full scale of gentrification not quite reached yet.

It also contains some of the city’s more underappreciated green space. Dennistoun was ranked the eighth coolest neighbourhood in the world in 2020 by Time Out. It may feel a bit more rough and ready than some of the glitzier

places on that list, but embedding yourself within it you’ll realise why it was granted that honour.

Food and drink

East End

Photo: Richard Gaston

cosy neighbourhood dives for a late drink. Larger breweries WEST (15 Binnie Pl) and Drygate (85 Drygate) Duke Street boasts several eateries offer their huge selection of beers, worth your time. Mesa (no. 567) has good food and huge open spaces for the best coffee and even better large groups. Good coffee is in sandwiches – dare you not to buy the abundance too: East (30 Hillfoot St) special every time it changes. Sweet Jane (no. 434) across the road provides and Tapa (19-21 Whitehill St) have the structural integrity (bread) of their small spots off the main road, and city sandwiches and delectable cakes and institution Dear Green (13-27 E Campbell St) roast their blend in the pastries of all kinds, and down the East End too. The newest kid on the road is vegan cafe Rawnchy (98 block Zennor (354 Duke St) may seem Bellgrove St). Newly opened Wild to be aimed at coffee experts, but Flours East (553 Duke St) and the vegan cafe Mayze (172 Sword St) offer its minimalist design and incredible toasties make it an cake, coffee and other lunchtime meals, while an unrivalled brunch item essential stop. For a more extravagant eating experience, in the scampi roll should be obtained head to the relatively new from Scran (594 Alexandra Parade).

Celentano’s (28-32 Cathedral Further along towards town, the rustic-chic of OUTLIER (38 London Rd) Sq), situated next to the Necropolis in the ground floor of the Cathedral is a great place for a rotating menu of House Hotel. It offers a vibey night of sandwiches built from the in-house fine dining with wine from taps and bakery and for people-watching. small plates of Italian-inspired food Baked (120 Duke St) is an excellent with a contemporary twist. pizza slice shop (try the vegan ‘nduja) with moreish arancini offerings.

Arancini are plentiful over here it Things to do seems, as up at Alexandra Parade, Italian deli Celino’s (no. 620) has The Glasgow Necropolis is a short mounds of the stuff, as well as cold walk up the hill from Duke Street, meats and focaccia you can take up located next to the cathedral, and the park when it’s sunny. boasting perhaps the best view of the In terms of bars, Redmonds (304 city. Frolicking between the headDuke St) and Palais (380 Duke St) are stones with your headphones on listening to goth tunes as the sun goes down is severely underrated.

Alexandra Park is one of the lesser appreciated green spaces in Glasgow.

There are points on its slopes where it’d be easy to forget you are even in the city were it not for the nearby M8’s ambient hiss of traffic. Glasgow Green is the other end of the spectrum – huge and spacious and lining the river, away from everything else.

TRNSMT festival takes place there each summer, and it’s home to the former Templeton Carpet Factory, a 19th century brick impression of a Venetian palazzo. People’s Palace is OUTLIER there too which gives a nice overview of

Glasgow City Guide 31

THE SKINNY

East End

Photo: Phil Reid

32 St Andrew's Suspension Bridge, Glasgow Green

East End

Image: courtesy of Squid Ink Co

Glasgow City Guide

city. Two of the best are Ripe (Barras Market, Moncur St), a tiny magazine shop selling high quality independent journalism with innovative design that spills out onto the street, and Submarine (8 Kent St), which stocks prints from local artists. Joining them is The Woom Room (Stall A7, Barras Market) a workshop, events and exhibition space and shop which stocks prints, clothing, accessories and other bits and bobs from Scotland-based artists.

Down nearer Glasgow Green on St Andrew’s Street, get lost in the piles of books at Good Press (no. 32), or find something beautiful for your home at independent lifestyle Squid Ink Co shop Squid Ink Co (no. 18) or something bespoke for a family Glasgow’s history. If you want to see member or friend at The some sport, Celtic play at Celtic Park, Passenger Press (no. 24). Just off Parkhead and the Sir Chris Hoy Duke Street, the Zero Waste Velodrome is across the road.

Market (17 Hillfoot St) offers a The East End’s role in the sustainable way to get city’s musical heritage is vital, your groceries. and nowhere is this more apparent than at the Getting there Barrowland Ballroom on the and getting away Gallowgate, a favourite of touring acts from all over and The length of Duke Street that runs perhaps the best venue in the from High Street train station to world. St Luke’s is another top quality Bellgrove is the most underrated walk venue hosting smaller bands. The jewel in terms of time taken in this small in the crown of the East End though is city. It takes far longer than it originally Glasgow Women’s Library (23 seems and there is very little to occupy Landressy St) in Bridgeton, a communi- you along the way other than some ty-driven, grassroots-established land currently undergoing redevelopcelebration of the lives and achievement where the old abattoir used to be ments of the city’s women, boasting or the Tennent’s brewery. art, archival materials and exhibitions.

So, unless you’re planning on going for a pint at Drygate, getting to Shops where the good stuff is may be best left to the bus or train, the latter of On the weekend, The Barras Market which there are three – Bellgrove and (242 Gallowgate) still goes on despite Duke Street on the line to Edinburgh or being a shadow of its former self. nearby Alexandra Parade. High Street Vendors sell their wares come rain or will get you close enough to get down shine, hawking everything from pirate to the Gallowgate or Bridgeton, or if DVDs to vintage clothing. But now it’s you’re feeling limber, you could walk surrounded by small arts shops that along from Argyle Street station or St stick out for their uniqueness in the Enoch’s subway.

33

West End The West End of Glasgow is the city’s traditional student hotspot, and the University of Glasgow sits right in the heart of it. The River Kelvin passes through the area, and its bisecting high streets – Byres and Great Western Roads – are full of vintage shops, cafes and bars. The West End’s lanes and alleyways are buzzing, with a surprising amount of live music and entertainment for such a leafy area.

West End

Photo: Clair Irwin Bar Brett

Great Western Road

Glasgow City Guide

Given the name, it makes sense to head west down Great Western Road as you leave the city centre, with the first key stop coming at The Hug and Pint (no. 171). You’ll find delicious vegan food and drinks upstairs, and a cosy and expertly-programmed gig space in the basement. Lupe Pinto’s (no. 313) is Glasgow’s best shop for North and Central American ingredients Bar Brett (no. 321) serve natural wines alongside elevated fire-cooked dishes; Bananamoon (no. 360) is a riotous cocktail bar with a huge outdoor seating area; Serenity Now (no. 380) offers up vegan breakfast options and cafe staples; Te Seba (no.

393-395) will blow your socks off with incredible pasta dishes and apparently-endless variations on the bellini.

Websters Theatre (no. 416) presents a range of theatre, comedy and music and is also handy for a pre-subway stop-off, while The Blankfaces (no.

427) create designer threads with the help of homeless Glaswegians, with the profits going to the city’s homeless community.

Kelvin Pocket (72 Woodside Rd), underneath the stairs to the Kelvinbridge subway stop, serves up great coffee, while crossing the Kelvin

leads to a host of places worth checking out. Inn Deep (no. 445) has brilliant beers from Williams Brothers and a delightful riverside terrace. Back at ground level, the same folk are responsible for Valhalla’s Goat (no.

449), an expertly-stocked beer and wine shop, while Roots Fruits and Flowers (no. 455) will sort you out with some great groceries to go with all the beer you’ve just purchased.

We know that lots of people say it, but it’s true: Glasgow’s best pizza can be found at Paesano, and their West End branch is just up the road at no.

471. If you need a new book to pull you out of your post-pizza lull, head a few doors up to the second-hand book haven of Caledonia Books (no.

483). At the end of the block, Cottonrake Bakery (no. 497) will fix you up with some fancy and delicious cakes and pastry.

Continue on and you’ll hit a pair of excellent cafes – Kothel (no. 536) offer up an all-day coffee shop with options for everyone, while Papercup (no. 603) serve one of the best espressos in the city with beans from their own roastery. Head for the hanging baskets, cold pints and cosy vibes at The Belle (no. 617), and keep walking until you hit the live music and untameable grandness of Òran Mór.

35

West End THE SKINNY

Photo: Adam Marikar

36 Kibble Palace, Botanic Gardens

Woodlands normal behaviour!

The QMU (22 University Gardens), on the other hand, has been at the forefront of Glasgow’s gig scene since the 1990s and is a regular stopping point for touring bands from around the world.

The residents of nearby Otago Lane have been fighting the good fight against property developers for years, looking to keep their uniquely odd slice of the West End alive. Head down and check it out – you’ll find a great mix of new and second-hand records at Mixed Up (no. 18), rare and antique books at Voltaire and Rousseau (no.

12-14), and an extremely laid-back cuppa at Tchai-Ovna House of Tea (no. 42).

For food, take your pick from deliciously meaty burgers at El Perro Negro (152 Woodlands Rd), incredible falafel from Mrs Falafel (1 Ashley St), deli treats from across the Middle East at Scherezade (47 Bank St) and Italian classics at Eusebi Deli (152 Park Rd).

Alternatively, grab a pint in classic old school pubs The Arlington (130 Woodlands Rd) and The Doublet (74 Park Rd), or the ever-lively DRAM! (232 Woodlands Rd).

West End

If straight lines aren’t your thing, take a left from Great Western Road and you’ll head into the windy avenues of Woodlands, south of GWR and east of Byres Road. You’ll find a bit of everything, starting with some lovely green space. Kelvingrove Park is one of the city’s best, with plenty of walking routes and things to do, as well as offering a charming off-street route towards Finnieston and Partick.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle St) is one of the city’s key attractions, and Glasgow University’s Hunterian Gallery and Museum (University of Glasgow, 82 Hillhead St) are also nearby if you fancy a day of looking at Old Stuff. Top tip – Kelvingrove is all in one place, but the Hunterian Gallery and Museum are in two different buildings on opposite sides of the street. The Glasgow outpost of The Stand Comedy Club (333 Woodlands Rd) is just east of the river, north of the park.

Fun fact: Glasgow Uni has two separate student unions, the Glasgow University Union and the Queen Margaret Union. The GUU was a little boys’ club for nearly 100 years, which only gave up its ‘no women’ policy when the uni threatened to chuck them out of the building. Very cool and

Photo: Paulina B Glasgow City Guide

Glasgow University

37

West End

Image: courtesy of Ka Pao Ka Pao

THE SKINNY

Byres Road

38

Starting at Kelvinhall subway station, where the West End turns into Partick, Byres Road is synonymous with the Glasgow student experience. A good first port of call, then, is the University Cafe (no. 87). One of the city’s many Italian cafes and ice cream parlours, this one’s been on the go for more than a century, and is more than worth a look regardless of any gelato-resistant weather. A more recent addition that inspires near-equal fervour is the Korean-inspired street food of Kimchi Cult, just off the main road at 14 Chancellor St. Continue up the hill and you’ll find exciting art at the multi-functional gallery/cafe The Alchemy Experiment (no. 157), a good coffee to keep you going at Tinderbox (no. 189) and a great pint at Tennent’s Bar across the street (no.

191). Keep going towards Hillhead subway and you’ll enter what we’ll call The Lane Zone.

On your right, Ashton Lane – a lovely cobbled street lined with bars and restaurants, with trailblazing restaurant Ubiquitous Chip (no. 12) and Belgian beer bar Brel (no. 37-43) among the highlights. On the left, Ruthven Lane – it’s not as flash, but its

collection of indie shops including the always-intriguing Ruthven Mews (no.

57) arcade and the vintage wares at Starry Starry Night (19 Dowanside Ln) are well worth checking out. Ruthven Lane is also home to the excellent Hanoi Bike Shop (no. 8), a quaint Vietnamese restaurant whose onetime endorsement by Beyoncé has entered into Scottish food legend.

Further up to the right and slightly round the corner, De Courcy’s Arcade (5-21 Cresswell Ln) is home to a selection of arty shops, with the lovely Japanese stationery at DRAW our particular favourite.

All the way up Byres Road you’ll find various charity and thrift shops, with the Oxfam Music (no. 171) and Oxfam Bookshop (no. 330) ideal if you need something to keep yourself entertained. At the top of the road, stop in at Òran Mór to catch a gig, grab a pint, or just gawk at Alasdair Gray’s ceiling mural (one of the largest artworks in the whole country!), while round the back on Vinicombe Street you’ll find tasty drinks and food at Hillhead Bookclub (no. 17) and Ka Pao (no. 26). Over the road are the Glasgow Botanic Gardens (730 Great Western Rd), an ideal destination for strolls and various light-based events all year round. The jewel in the gardens’ crown is the grand Kibble Palace, a former exhibition space and concert venue.

North North Glasgow has cultural projects a-plenty, green space to walk in, and a diverse mix of food and drink.

The Glasgow that exists north of Great Western Road is comprised of several different neighbourhoods, strung together down the Forth and Clyde canal.

T

recent years has given birth to many exciting cultural projects – various members of the Glasgow Canal Co-operative form a cluster here between Port Dundas and the Firhill Basin. Cultural heavy-hitters like the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland, Scottish Opera, and National Theatre of Scotland also have studios in the vicinity.

Glasgow City Guide

o the south west, packed between the canal and the River Kelvin lie Maryhill and North Kelvinside, land historically owned by literal Mary Hill and today a beloved residential area frequented by students and locals alike.

East of the canal you’ll find Port Dundas, a 19th-century industrial hub which in

41

North

Go Outdoors

Check out the Loading Bay skatepark (Borron St) – a From the Botanics, you can latch onto state of the art park with the Kelvin Walkway for a leafy amble bowl and street skating over the Ha’Penny Bridge and up layouts, modular ramps, a towards Maryhill. Across the river, trampoline room for walk along to the Children’s Wood and practising your tricks, and North Kelvin Meadow (76 Kelbourne a cafe. In a similar vein, St), to visit the last wild space in Pinkston Watersports (75 N Canal Glasgow’s West End. Bank St) is Scotland’s only artificial As outdoor spaces go, Ruchill whitewater course, with tubing, paddle Park has a bit of everything. Feeling boarding and canoeing all on offer. sporty? Head over to the Disc Golf For a dive into the city’s cultural Course (and watch out for flying past, the historic Queen’s Cross discs). Fancy a jog? There are plenty of Church (870 Garscube Road) can be routes to take, from the pleasant and found just round the corner from a flat to the torturously uphill. Want to four-storey-high mural of the sun that get your bearings? Go up to the closely resembles local team Partick flagpole and see what you can make Thistle’s magnificent mascot Kingsley out from its vantage point.

(Northpark St). One is a site of worship and iconography that has left its mark Things to do on Glasgow’s art world; the other is the Charles Rennie Mackintosh church.

If you like being high off the ground The banks of the canal north of but don’t care so much about the the M8 are home to a huge array of views, The Climbing Academy’s Prop creative folk. Many of them can be Store (24 Craigmont St) is a varied found in The Whisky Bond (2 Dawson selection of bouldering walls packed Rd), a hub of creative workspaces, into the BBC’s old prop warehouse (its events spaces and artists’ studios, in-house cafe will fix you up with a which also incorporates the Glasgow great coffee and bite to eat, too). After Sculpture Studios. Round the corner, another way to get active indoors?

Carnival Arts Yard and Grey Wolf

THE SKINNY

Photo: Sam Scriven

42

The Prop Store

North

Image: courtesy The Whisky Bond The Whisky Bond

Studios (124 and 131 Craighall Rd) are always worth a nosey.

Civic House (26 Civic St) is a community-minded arts space that hosts everything from music festivals to LGBTQIA+ bike maintenance workshops. Nearby, The Glue Factory (22 Farnell St for studios, 15 Burns St for events) serves as an occasional music venue, but its day job is housing artists’ studios, such as that of Skinny -favourite RISOTTO.

Begbie chucks his empty pint glass, and for the fight which ensues.

The Botany (795 Maryhill Rd) is ideal for a pint or cocktails and some hearty food (and their conservatory has its own cosy log fire), while during the day North Star Cafe and Comet Pieces (108 and 150 Queen Margaret Dr) provide much in the way of sandwiches and Big Tasty Rolls. Back down at the base of the canal you’ll find Ocho (8 Speirs Wharf), an all-day cafe with great brunch options, and Food and drink Rockvilla Pizza (6 Possil Rd) who have expanded their menu to include For cultural tourists on the meatball (or veggie ball) subs with Trainspotting circuit, the streets pizza dough in place of bread. around Maryhill Road may be of some Alternatively, if you feel like cooking, interest. 97 year-old Cafe D’Jaconelli SeeWoo (29 Saracen St) hosts 60,000 (570 Maryhill Rd) with its jukebox and square feet of ingredients from across red leather booths was one of a east and south-east Asia. For refernumber of the film’s Glasgow locaence, 60,000 square feet is roughly tions, while The BrewHaus, fka the area of a full-size football pitch.

Crosslands (182 Queen Margaret Dr), is It’s very big – the biggest Asian famous for the balcony off which supermarket in the country.

Glasgow City Guide 43

Finnieston & Partick Stretching along the north side of the River Clyde from Victoria Park in the west, skirting what is traditionally considered the West End, before reaching up to Charing Cross, the Partick to Finnieston area covered here is essentially one long walk down Dumbarton Road, splitting into the early stages of Sauchiehall and Argyle streets and on into town.

A

long the way, you can treat yourself to some of the best food and drink to be found anywhere in the city, from affordable international cuisine to fine dining straight out of a show like Chef’s Table.

44

Partick is a little different from Finnieston. Less gentrified, Partick brushes just close enough to the West End that you can enjoy what that neighbourhood has to offer without being burdened with some of the epithets other Glaswegians may associate with it. Finnieston, formerly

home to warehouses and docks in the era of the city’s shipbuilding boom, has since deindustrialisation slowly been built up to the point where now it’s one of the city’s swankiest late-night spots. If you’re having a big one, and want to go somewhere Nice and Fancy, you’ll find it there.

Finnieston & Partick

E

xtremely well linked to the city and beyond, Partick is easily accessible via train on a line that will take you on to Balloch and Loch Lomond in the west, or to Duke Street in the east, or even beyond on the slow line to Edinburgh. The subway also goes to Partick station, but depending on how your day pans out, you could start at Kelvinhall, or it’s just a skip from Hillhead. Finnieston is a little trickier, but the train goes to Exhibition Centre and then it’s a very short walk.

The best thing you could do is walk. An uninterrupted hour would be an extremely leisurely stroll from Partick all the way through Finnieston and into town. You could do it in much less, or you could turn it into perhaps the best pub and restaurant crawl in town.

Food and drink

I

f that was your game, and you wanted to eat ten times your body weight along the way, this is how you’d take on Dumbarton Road. Start at The

THE SKINNY

Image: courtesy of Eighty Eight

46

Eighty Eight

Image: courtesy of Kaf

Getting there and getting away

Kaf

Thornwood (no. 724) and load up on their selection of bottles and cans of craft beer and the best mac and cheese you can find. Next is Basta (no. 561), the best Neapolitan pizza in Glasgow. Their butternut squash and goats cheese regular is supreme.

You’re not too drunk yet, so pick up your fresh groceries from Locavore (no. 449), then grab banh mi from, well, Banh Mi & Tea (no.

401), a five-table cafe and the most underrated Vietnamese food in town. Smiddy Bar (no. 309) is a chain pub that retains its charm, so pop in for a quick half, then a bite from Brawsome Bagels (no. 292) for the road. There’s deli meats for the week from Celino’s (no.

235), then round the corner for a flat white and a pastry from Kaf (5 Hyndland St).

The Sparkle Horse (16 Dowanhill St) is a cosy but trendy pub just off the main road, or back on Dumbarton Road head to Dolphin Bar (no. 157) or The Three Judges (no.141) if the football is on. Pot stickers from Dumpling Monkey (no. 121) next, or for fresh pasta, Eighty Eight (no. 88) is across the road.

Nip up Kelvin Way for a gyros from MacTasso’s truck and then cross the bridge over the Kelvin and you’re into Finnieston.

Old Dumbarton Road has Dukes Bar (no.

41) for a negroni and then along the street to Gloriosa (1321 Argyle St) for a continental-style fine dining sit-down or the other way for South

Finnieston & Partick

Photo: Brian Sweeney

street and a history of the city’s subway system.

Berthed outside on the river next to the museum is the Tall Ship, Glenlee. It’s also the location of the Riverside Festival, an annual celebration of electronic and dance music.

Music is well represented in Finnieston. The OVO Hydro (Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd) arena sits next to the SEC and Armadillo, the city’s Five March three major auditoriums for live events.

By the railway arches sits SWG3 (100 Eastvale Pl), warehouses converted Indian at Banana Leaf (76 Old into a live events, clubbing and Dumbarton Rd). If you are still exhibition space which also boasts somehow hungry, on Argyle Street rotating food pop-ups. The Clydeside you’re spoiled for choice: Rafa’s Distillery (100 Stobcross Rd) offers Mexican diner (1103 The Hidden Ln), Crabshakk (1114 Argyle St) for seafood, tours of the whisky distilling process.

Glasgow institution Mother India (28 Westminster Terr), too many to mention. Pubs like the Kelvingrove Café (1161 Argyle St) and The Finnieston (1125 Argyle St) have you covered for more drinks, or fuel up on coffee from The Steamie (1024 Argyle St). Head up to Elderslie Street to find Five March (no. 140) for imaginative contemporary dining straight off the likes of Masterchef: The Professionals.

If you need another drink, Chinaski’s (239 North St) is nicely placed at Charing Cross. Then go to bed!

Photo: Michael C Hunter

Things to do

D

AURORA at SWG3

Glasgow City Guide

ue to its proximity to the West End and town, this part of Glasgow cedes green space and key cultural locations to those areas.

However, the Riverside Museum (100 Pointhouse Rd) lines this side of the river. Originally located at the Kelvin Hall, this museum houses dozens of interactive exhibits showcasing the evolution of vehicular transport and Glasgow infrastructure, including a life size replica of a cobbled Glasgow

47

48

THE SKINNY

Southside Glasgow’s Southside is a world unto itself: a densely populated, vibrant part of the city, as well known for its history of community-minded activism as it is for its fabulous parks, restaurants and bars.

T

his cosmopolitan corner of Glasgow is where the historic Rent Strikes of 1915 first began and, in 2001, where a local community famously occupied a swimming pool (Govanhill Baths) to prevent its closure (the building is now a grassroots, activist organisation and local arts and well-being hub).

Encompassing two of Scotland’s most diverse neighbourhoods, Govanhill and Pollokshields, the Southside is also home to an incredible range of restaurants, cafes, shops and takeaway hole-inthe-walls. Cuisines from all over the world can be found in

Govanhill’s packed, bustling streets, where 32 languages are spoken within a span of just 13 tenement blocks.

Thanks to its low rents, community spirit and buzzy atmosphere, Govanhill is also fast becoming a city hotspot for artists and creatives. Small social enterprises, hip indie businesses and creative hubs have sprung up all over the neighbourhood in the last couple of years.

For a slightly quieter, more relaxed vibe, visitors can head to neighbouring districts Mount Florida and Pollokshields – here you’ll find snooker halls, quiet pubs and

cosy cafes, dotted along widely spaced, residential streets that feature some of Glasgow’s most beautiful architecture. Up the road, Shawlands is the Southside’s busy shopping district, teeming with indie outlets, charity shops and cheerful eateries. Every urban region needs a good green space, and thankfully the glorious Queen;s Park is just that.

Nestled between Shawlands, Mount Florida and Govanhill, this gorgeous expanse of greenery, nick-named ‘the people’s park’, is the beating heart of the Southside.

49

Southside

Food

T

he Southside is a great place to get lost in, and foodies could easily spend an entire day just wandering around and sampling the local delicacies. In Govanhill, take a walk up Allison Street and pop into the Glasgow Sweet Centre (no. 202) for some of the best samosas in town, plus something sweet for dessert (the Pistachio Burfi is recommended).

Once you hit main strip Victoria Road, there’s a fantastic array of eateries to choose from. For mouth-wateringly delicious tacos on the go, check out Sacred Tum Tacos (no. 522), and for Italian cuisine with a vintage vibe head to the tiny, homely, retro-styled Errol's Hot Pizza (no. 379).

Head up the road and you’ll find even more shoebox-sized gems nestled together at the tip of Allison Street. The veggie rolls at Vietnamese BYOB place Little Hoi An (no. 26) are out-of-this-world, but make sure to ring ahead if you want to sit in – it’s extremely hard to get a table.

Right next door, Kurdish Street Food (no. 12-14) sell the best kebabs in the

city, and you can walk away full for less than a fiver.

Turn the corner onto Pollokshaws Road and you’ll find some roomier dine-in restaurants, such as the excellent Caribbean bar and canteen The Rum Shack (no. 657-659), Greek-Cypriot Mezze place Halloumi (no. 697) and family-run deli serving traditional Punjabi food, Ranjit’s Kitchen (no. 607). In Pollokshields, Indian restaurant New Anand (76 Nithsdale Rd) is a neighbourhood favourite, while, the elegant Nivens (no. 72), with its fresh Scottish dishes and refined, gorgeous decor, is perfect for a fancy night out.

In Shawlands, try Julie’s Kopitiam (1109 Pollokshaws Rd) for delicious Malaysian street food and Silk Road Deli (34 Minard Road) for inventive sandwiches with serious flavour. In Mount Florida, Hooked (1027 Cathcart Rd) is great for fish and chips and if you like your lunch served with a side of history, check out the Battlefield Rest (55 Battlefield Rd). This quaint and cosy continental bistro has been around since 1914, when it was used as a resting and courting place for tram travellers.

THE SKINNY

Photo: Laura Stuart

50

Sacred Tum Tacos

Southside THE SKINNY

Photo: Leighanne Evelyn

52

Drinks

T

he Southside is full of places to drink, from the ‘old man pub’ variety to a bunch of trendier bars.

The Allison Arms (720 Pollokshaws Rd) is a lively, permanently crowded establishment that seems to cater to all crowds. Right next door, separated only by Shahed's Takeaway (the perfect stop-off for post- or midboozing food by the way), is the legendary Heraghty’s (708 Pollokshaws Rd), one of the city’s oldest pubs. Fancy a change of scene? Just whip across the road and head into The Rum Shack, where you can choose from a list of delectable cocktails or over 100 different types of rum. There’s also the achingly hip Koelschip Yard down the street (686-688 Pollokshaws Rd), serving a pretty impressive selection of craft beer.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you could always head further afield to Glaswegian institution the Star Bar (537-539 Eglinton St) for karaoke and a £3 three-course meal on Sundays, or over to Minnesota Fats (1053-1055 Cathcart Rd) for a pint over a game of American-style snooker.

If it’s caffeine you’re after in the Southside, you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Go-tos for serious coffee fans include Short Long Black (501 Victoria Rd) and Grain and Grind (742 Pollokshaws Rd).

After opening during the pandemic, the Transylvania Coffee Shop (462 Victoria Rd) has quickly become a neighbourhood favourite. Owned by a local couple from Transylvania who lost their jobs at hotels shortly before the first lockdown, it’s a cheery bistro-esque place bursting with Romanian and Hungarian snacks, fresh produce, flowers, cakes, baked

Grain & Grind

goods and takeaway hot drinks. Its friendly atmosphere is also unparalleled – the ‘come on in’ vibe and extensive, seasonal decorations (whether for Halloween, Pride or Christmas) will cheer you up no matter what mood you’re in.

Milk (452 Victoria Rd), a social enterprise and community-minded cafe, is a particularly lovely place to linger over a coffee with a book or a friend. And tucked away on a side street nearby is a true Southside hidden gem. The Bees Knees Cafe (83 Bowman St) is a snug autumnal treasure trove, complete with vintage mismatched furniture, quirky antique objects, warm mellow lighting and even, according to owner Anna, a couple of friendly ghosts (they like to hang out in the back room, along with the Victorian oil paintings). Perhaps more importantly, it also sells a range of melt-in-the-mouth vegan and gluten-free cakes, along with vegan whipped cream.

Indie Shops and Things To Do

T

he famous Burrell Collection recently enjoyed its long-awaited reopening – the magnificent civic

Books (34 Allison St). The fiercely independent, DIY outlet offers queer community events as well as books, comics, zines and magazines, and is the only bookshop solely dedicated to LGBT+ literature and authors in Scotland.

Southside

museum, which has been closed for refurbishment since 2016, is home to 9000 objects and surrounded by the splendour of Pollok Park (2060 Pollokshaws Rd). For a contemporary arts and culture fix, head to the Tramway (25 Albert Dr), a renowned international arts venue offering a year-round programme of dance, live art, drama, festivals and free exhibitions. Out back you’ll also find the Hidden Gardens, a peaceful and calm Southside oasis.

For records, check out Some Great Reward (520 Victoria Rd) and for one-of-a-kind handcrafted objects head to Wild Gorse Pottery (684 Pollokshaws Rd). Market magpies should visit Park Lane Market (974 Pollokshaws Rd), open on the first and last Sunday of every month, and the Big Zero Waste Market (The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St), open on the first Saturday of every month.

A number of independent bookshops have recently sprung up in the area – there’s Burning House Books (446 Cathcart Rd) with its sleek black shopfront and focus on counterculture and queer history, the lovely, cosy Outwith Books (14 Albert Rd) which also offers a beautiful deskspace area for writers, and the very new and exciting Mount Florida Books (1069 Cathcart Rd). But if you could only visit one Southside bookseller, we’d have to recommend Category Is

Go outdoors

Q

ueen's Park, with its urban proximity, is a great place to relax with pals, sprawl out on the grass with a beer or coffee, take in the view at the flagpole or perhaps enjoy some spontaneous entertainment at the Queen's Park Arena. This park truly is the epicentre of the Southside, but there are other green spaces to check out too, each with something distinctive to offer. The huge Linn Park, stretching across four Southside suburbs, is a wilder affair, full of craggy woodland walks, lush waterfalls and several play areas for families. Pollok Country Park (2060 Pollokshaws rd) is the only country park in Glasgow and well worth a visit for its gorgeous landscapes and scenic trails. If you’re lucky, you also might spot a Highland coo or two.

Image: courtesy of Glasgow Museums Glasgow City Guide

Burrel Collection

53

Govan, Ibrox, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Gorbals, Bellahouston To many Scots The Gorbals is still a byword for the type of deprivation that Glasgow was once famous for. To residents of even just a few decades ago, it would be unrecognisable today with its penthouse apartments, 24-hour gyms and drive-thru coffee shops.

G

overnment investment of close to £1 billion has transformed the southern Clyde waterfront area into a slick media hub. When the BBC opened its Scottish headquarters on the south bank of the river in 2007, it didn’t take long for big-money companies to line up

alongside it. The Quayside today plays host to casinos, cinemas, restaurants and high-rise luxury chain hotels.

Behind the shininess of the riverfront, however, these are still working-class parts of town. Immigrant communities from across Europe and the Middle East have settled here,

and continue to do so. The shops, cafes, barbers, bars and restaurants reflect that multiculturalism. In many ways, this area of town paints a distinct picture of modern Glasgow. A heartening mix of the city’s industrial past and its ambitious future.

Go outdoors

the imposing Scotland Street School (225 Scotland St) for a glimpse at its There aren’t many green spaces in striking exterior; the sandstone the area. It is, after all, the city’s Victorian school building is a wonderindustrial heartland. A walk or bike ful example of Mackintosh’s style. ride along the river, however, offers a whistle-stop tour of some of Glasgow’s Food and drink most iconic buildings and structures, from Glasgow Science Centre and A fun foodie highlight is Govan’s Govan Parish Church to Glasgow The Big Feed (249-325 Govan Rd). This University, the Finnieston Crane and weekly street food festival takes place the SEC across the water (as well as in a large warehouse on Govan Road, the squinty bridge across it). where a changing rotation of food For a spooky summer walk, trucks from across the country park up consider ducking in under the large and get cooking. With a fully-stocked stone archway of the Gorbals bar, live music, arcade games and so Southern Necropolis (Caledonia Rd). A much good food to try, it’s easy to nod to the area’s grim history, this spend hours here. graveyard (founded in 1840) is the final The newest addition to the resting place for over 250,000 Gorbals Cessnock area is Kitchen Glasgow inhabitants. It is worth seeking out the (11 North Gower St), a famous White Lady monument. Just be popular bakery serving sure not to walk around her ghostly delicate patisserie statue three times or – legend has it favourites, breakfast – she will turn your body to stone. options, breads and Deeper south is Bellahouston pizzas. While around the Park – a terrific spot for running, corner the city’s best cycling and picnics, it even has a dry Lebanese food can be ski slope and hosts concerts in the found in the heaving summer. Within the park sits the plates of mezze at Beirut unique House for an Art Lover. Built in Star (450 Paisley Rd W). Similarly high the 1990s, based on 1901 notes left quality, low price food can be found behind by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, near the Glasgow Mosque in the the large white mansion hosts Gorbals in the form of highly rated exhibitions, weddings and is in some Afghan food at Namak Mandi (17-23 ways a curiously compromised Bridge St), Middle Eastern cuisine in example of the British Art Nouveau Palmtree Kitchen (22 Bridge St) and style. If you’re looking for a more sweets from Turkey in Istanbul Cakes authentic Mackintosh fix, stroll past and Baklawas (63 Bridge St).

Photo: Vishnu Prasad Bellahouston Park 55

South of The River

Nearby, Babylon Supermarket (3-5 Commerce St) is a large supermarket well stocked with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and even an in-house bakery. Aladdin’s (45 Commerce St) is similarly good for hard-to-find ingredients.

For coffee in Cessnock, check out the sustainable focused The Good Coffee Cartel (12 Cornwall St) cafe and on-site roastery, while in the Gorbals, vegan joint Zilch Bakery & Deli (124 Norfolk St) serve up a frankly astounding range of plant-based food, from NY cheesecake to charcuterie.

This part of town also does a roaring trade in good old-fashioned pubs. Home to two of the city’s very best: The Laurieston (58 Bridge St) and The Old Toll Bar (1 Paisley Rd W). The former is a Glasgow city icon, appearing in pop art prints, photography exhibitions and even a Fratellis music video, and The Old Toll Bar dates back to the 1800s.

Refurbished in 2017, the bones of the place remain the same, now with added cocktails and comedy nights.

Things to do Glasgow Science Centre (50 Pacific Quay) is an immersive educational experience for all the family, with its cheerful interactive exhibits in a futuristic architectural space. If you’re feeling brave, visit Ibrox Stadium (150 Edmiston Dr); one of the oldest football stadiums in Europe (built in 1874), it’s home to Glasgow Rangers. During the off-season in the summer, daily stadium tours are available.

The area is bookended by the exquisite Govan Old Parish Church (866 Govan Rd). Free to the public, the site has been home to a church since the 6th century and houses the famous Norse carved Govan stones, dating back to 870AD. For a more energetic day, a large section of repurposed warehouses, a short distance from Kinning Park tube station, host a number of active pursuits. Choose from roller rinks (Roller Stop CIC, 139 Middlesex St), crazy golf (Fore Play, 124 Portman St) or pilates studios (The Yoga & Pilates Place, 32 Portman St).

THE SKINNY

Photo: Fredrika Carlsson

56

Glasgow Science Centre

Photo: Stephen O'Donnell

Riverside Museum

Photo: Mitchell Schleper

THE SKINNY

Daytripping

58

Highland Cows near Loch Lomond

Daytripping

Photo: Phoebe Willison Cycling near Dumbarton

Once you’ve explored the centre, venture outside Glasgow’s city limits and you’ll find the islands, castles and cities of Scotland within easy reach Words: Laurie Presswood

I

ends at Dumbarton Castle, an Iron Age stronghold nestled in the dramatic volcanic basalt of Dumbarton Rock.

If you have strong seafaring legs, the west coast has a never-ending supply of islands to explore. From Largs you can head out to Cumbrae, which you may hear called Millport after the island’s sole town. Hiring bikes (for one, two, or seven passengers) is a Millport rite of passage, but watch out for cars as you’re passing the ferry terminal! Bute (accessible via Wemyss Bay) plays host to Mount Stuart, a striking neo-gothic mansion built in the late 19th century, while you can catch the ferry to Arran from Ardrossan to enjoy the island that some call “Scotland in miniature” (it’s easy to see why – after all, it does have hills, castles, golf and whisky).

Glasgow City Guide

f you’re in town long enough, take advantage of Glasgow’s position on the central belt and hit the road to the islands/Highlands/Lowlands or anywhere in between. Since you’re already on the west coast, make your first mission to see some water.

Head for the hills just north of Glasgow to visit Loch Lomond (of song fame) and the Trossachs National Park. Although great for camping, cycling and walking, try ferry rides on Lochs Lomond and Katrine for the most exciting view of the landscapes.

Just to the west, you can follow the Clyde Sea Loch Trail, which takes you around the beautiful tidal inlets of the Firth of Clyde. The route passes through Helensburgh, where you can visit the Charles Rennie Mackintoshdesigned Hill House mansion, and

59

Daytripping

Fancy a swim? Ayrshire’s the place for you – with 84 miles of coastline, there’s a beach for everyone.

Troon and Ayr itself are easily accessible by public transport, or head for Dunure Beach to bathe under the ruins of Dunure Castle. Alternatively, if you like swimming but are scared you might bump into a basking shark, the Gourock Outdoor Pool is a heated saltwater lido with breathtaking views across the Firth of Clyde. Get food on Kempock Street afterwards and revel in the beauty of the seaside.

Daytripping from Glasgow doesn’t have to include water though (witches breathe a sigh of relief); on the west coast alone you’re spoilt for choice with cultural and historical landmarks. Back in Ayrshire there’s a

THE SKINNY

Photo: Ross Sneddon

wealth of museums and monuments dedicated to Scotland’s Bard – in his birthplace of Alloway you can find the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Burns Cottage and Burns Monument.

The spectacular Culzean Castle sits a little further down the coast, perched on the cliffs, surrounded by its sprawling grounds and deer park. For a middle-aged castle with a modern twist, visit the Kelburn Country Estate, where you’ll find a 16th century castle that has been covered in graffiti by a team of leading Brazilian graffiti artists and local Scottish talent – the result is quite dramatic.

If you want to learn more about Scotland’s history, David Livingstone Birthplace in Blantyre attempts a balanced examination of the life of the Scottish explorer. Its exhibits present Livingstone against the backdrop of Victorianera Scotland, and use him as a vehicle through which to educate about Scotland’s industrial past as well as its role in colonialism. Moving further south, New Lanark, one of Scotland’s six UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is an 18th century mill-village of striking proportions. It’s accessible via local coach from Lanark bus station, or direct from Buchanan Street – details for both services can be retrieved by calling Stuart’s Coaches on 01555 773533.

In the centre of Scotland lies Stirling, one of Scotland’s ancient capitals.

Stirling is just a

60

New Lanark

Glasgow City Guide

Edinburgh on issuu.com/theskinny, or for a dissection of the city’s festival offerings, pick up a copy of our sister publication Fest (issuu.com/festmag).

If you’re willing to travel just a little further (an hour and a half on the train), and would like to investigate one of Scotland’s smaller cities, head for Dundee. Upon walking out of the station you’ll immediately be struck by Scotland’s first design museum – the V&A Dundee sits centrally among such other features of the city’s waterfront as the RRS Discovery, Jannettas Gelateria and the striking Tay Whale sculpture. For a proper expedition into the city, you can grab some fish and chips and head for the top of the Law (fish and chips optional), or head down the Perth Road stopping at every pub, shop and gallery along the way.

Daytripping

Photo: Alex Azabache

half-hour train journey from Glasgow, and is built around what we will, perhaps controversially, name ‘Scotland’s Best Castle’. Take the tour, and be invited to sit on a reconstruction of the King’s throne, or stand on the battlements and look out over miles of historic battlefields as the wind whips through your hair and you pretend to be in an episode of Outlander.

Scotland’s modern-day capital, Edinburgh, is within easy striking distance of Glasgow – a mere 50 minutes by train from Queen Street Station. It’s full of historic hills and mounds to climb, and beautiful views to Edinburgh reward you when you do. Investigate the galleries and museums scattered across the centre, or mosey into the various and distinct neighbourhoods to shop and appreciate the architecture (Dean Village is relatively central, and generally less saturated with tourists than spots like the castle). As August approaches, the city will play host to the famed Edinburgh festivals, which will see thousands of visitors return to see shows across the Edinburgh International Festival, Fringe, Art and Book festivals among others. Even if you don’t want to take in a show, a trip through is worth it for the atmosphere alone – food trucks, street performers, and a 5am clubbing licence are just some of the attractions of Edinburgh in August. For a more in-depth guide around the capital, check out The Skinny Guide to

61

Glasgow Clubs

Beat of My Drum For years, the work of electronic music pioneer Janet Beat went unnoticed, but acknowledgments from Glasgow’s Tectonics festival and gender equality charity SWIM are drawing attention to her innovative work Words: Nadia Younes

2

THE SKINNY

022 marks big anniversaries for some notable names in Scotland’s electronic music scene: the infamous Glasgow venue Sub Club celebrates its 35th birthday, iconic club night Optimo (Espacio) marks its 25th anniversary, and revered record label LuckyMe turns 15.

But for its 2022 edition, Glasgow’s Tectonics festival chose to celebrate a lesser-known but equally influential individual in Scottish electronic music.

62

Janet Beat is widely regarded as a pioneer in electronic music, and not only for her own compositions and musical scores. Born in Streetly, Staffordshire in 1937, Beat was interested in music from a young age. In an interview with

Manchester-based composer Caro C for the British Music Collection, Beat said that she wrote her first piano piece at just three years old and bought her first tape machine in her late teens.

recording studios, featuring a range of equipment, including ring modulators, low pass filters, and signal generators.

Throughout this time, Beat was also composing her own music, but it wasn’t until She began her musical studies August last year – at the age of 83 – that she released her first at the Birmingham official album, the aptly-titled Conservatoire, where she studied piano and horn, before Pioneering Knob Twiddler.

Released on Trunk Records, graduating with a Bachelor’s both digitally and on vinyl, the degree in music from album includes seven of Beat’s Birmingham University and own compositions made then completing a Masters in between 1978-1987, using early Italian Opera. In 1972, she relocated to Scotland and synthesisers, tape machines, and acoustic instruments. began lecturing at the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama, now known as the Up until this point, Beat’s compositions – along with her Royal Conservatoire of published works, scores, and Scotland. During this time, cassette recordings – had only Beat was responsible for been available through the setting up the school’s British Music Collection’s electronic music and

Glasgow Clubs

Image: courtesy of British Music Collection Janet Beat

archive. Like fellow early pioneers in electronic composition, such as Delia Derbyshire and Daphne Oram – the latter of whom was a supporter of Beat – much of her work went unnoticed for many years; perhaps even more so than some of her peers.

“​​She is a survivor and an inspiration” Hilary Brooks, SWIM

in a male-dominated field.

However, through her willingness to take risks and go against the status quo, her work has been incredibly Much of Beat’s work – specifi- influential in advancing cally her interest in microtonal electronic music, not just in music and stereophonic sound Scotland but across the world.

– was initially met with It just goes to show that resistance, not in any small dancing to the beat of your part due to the fact that she own drum does, sometimes, was a woman creating music pay off.

Glasgow City Guide

But Beat’s legacy has finally started to gain recognition in recent years. In 2019, she became the first recipient of the Scottish Women in Music (SWIM) Lifetime Achievement Award for her work in pushing forward electronic music and composition, with the award now named after her. One of SWIM’s founders, Hilary Brooks, says that Beat was “the obvious choice” for the gender equality charity’s first Lifetime Achievement Award.

Brooks first discovered Beat and her work as a student at the Royal Scottish Academy of Music & Drama, where Beat briefly taught her Harmony and Counterpoint, instilling a love of harmony in her. “​​Janet was a very early supporter of [SWIM],” she says. “She attended lots of meetings and, without hesitation, shared many an anecdote with fellow members about her experiences of being a woman composer in music – good and appalling. She is a survivor and an inspiration.”

63

Music

Sounds of the City Live like a local and immerse yourself in Glasgow’s music communities by way of their indie record shops and community radio stations Interview: Tallah Brash

I

f you’ve landed in Glasgow because of its UNESCO City of Music status, or you’re just here, well, because, and you happen to be a big ol’ fan of music, then a great way to throw yourself into the local scene is by checking out its independent record shops and

by listening to its community-run radio stations.

THE SKINNY

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida

Monorail Music (12 Kings Court, King St), housed in cafe, bar and gig venue Mono in the Merchant City, is a good jumping off point; the shop is run by The Pastels’ Stephen McRobbie, with its core staff made up of various local band members and indie record label owners.

In complementary fashion, you’ll find glorious vinyl of every genre here, with a strong selection of Scottish artists, past, present and future.

64

Kairogen at Radio Buena Vida

The staff of Some Great Reward (520 Victoria Rd), a record shop and cafe in the city’s Southside, can also be found playing in bands or running

DJ Superherb (Full Dose Records) at Radio Buena Vida

club nights, and if you’re looking for a Scottish record to add to your collection they can help with that too. What’s more, online radio station Radio Buena Vida has been broadcasting from the shop’s front window since October 2020.

With a strong focus on the local community, Radio Buena Vida co-founder Suz O’Neill tells us about the shows you can expect to hear on the station: “From the outset we wanted to ensure that the music we play on the station

Music

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida Aroma on Air at Radio Buena Vida

Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida

represents the diversity of music being made, played and listened to across the city, so you will hear a wide range of genres, from amapiano, gqom, post-punk, new wave and techno to hip-hop, dubstep, breaks, bass, jazz, rap, soul, Jersey club and more.

allowing us to broadcast from their window,” O’Neill says.

“Thanks to their incredible support we are now moving onto our next adventure.”

Further community radio can be found in Glasgow at Clyde Built Radio, Govan’s Sunny G Community Radio and Subcity Radio, which has been broadcasting in the city since 1995.

For more info on Radio Buena Vida, head to buenavida.co.uk Image: courtesy of Radio Benua Vida Optimistic Soul at Radio Buena Vida

Glasgow City Guide

your goal is to ‘live like a local’ while you’re visiting. Based on the station’s programming, we ask O’Neill for some city centre recommendations on where to check out for gigs and clubs. “That’s a tough one to answer,” she says, “there are so many! Bonzai Bonner’s programming at The Berkeley “Shows from rap/production Suite (237 North St), including duo Washington and Papi Optimistic Soul’s Africa Is Now Moses and hip-hop/grime night, and VAJ.Power’s producer/musician duo Praize programming at Stereo (22-28 4G and Rosái shine a spotlight Renfield Ln), including the A on Scottish independent Cut Above nights, stand out as artists.” O’Neill continues: being particularly exciting and “Sound designers Anna Pluto diverse right now. We’re also and Kairogen’s shows deliver a excited to see what series of sonic journeys; DJ resident Joe Unknown Pearl Necklace brings his will do in his new signature vogue and club, DJ programming role at Superherb features leftfield Nice N Sleazy (421 dub releases from his Glasgow Sauchiehall St). label Full Dose, DJ Farnaz hits In the coming months, hard with techno, ISO YSO Radio Buena Vida will explores computer game and continue broadcasting orchestral scores, and Faye to passers by in the from Some Great Reward has Govanhill area, a metal show.” however soon it will be from their own cafe As is to be expected, a lot of and event space across the station’s show hosts also the street from their run their own club nights and current home. “We are put on their own gigs in the eternally grateful to city. For an out-of-towner, it Some Great Reward for can be hard to know where’s their generosity in best to go out, especially if

65

Glasgow's Past

Walking Back We speak with CRER about anti-racism, walking through local history, and the importance of understanding Glasgow’s past Interview: Eilidh Akilade Illustration: Nänni-pää

THE SKINNY

“I

66

f you have that understanding of the past and of how we’ve ended up with institutional racism, you’re more likely to be able to counter institutional racism and fight against it in the present day as well,” explains Nelson Cummins, Communities and Campaigns Officer at CRER (Coalition for Racial Equality and Rights).

The anti-racist organisation seeks to promote the rights of Black and minority ethnic communities across Scotland and eliminate racial harrassment and prejudice. Its historical walking tours of Glasgow – organised by Cummins and led by himself and colleague Yasmin Luqman – are key to this work.

CRER’s walking tours map Glasgow’s history with colonialism, slavery, and abolition by taking participants around the city – the statue of David Livingstone, the Gallery of Modern Art, and High Street, to name a few stops. They’ve got a history of their own, running for a couple

of decades, having been started back when CRER was known as the Glasgow Anti-Racist Alliance. Now the tours run once a week during October (the UK’s Black History Month) and upon request during the rest of the year, usually for education or work groups.

abolition of slavery: the Black abolitionists who came to speak in Glasgow, as well as the abolition movments that existed within the city itself.

It’s crucial that Glasgow’s complex history is seen in full.

A lot of Glasgow’s past (usually, the colonial parts) is too often glossed over in our Primarily, the tours “explore education system. In almost the ties between Glasgow and every Scottish history transatlantic slavery, particutextbook, Glasgow is heralded larly in the wealth that’s come the ‘second city of the Empire’. into the city of Glasgow The Clyde becomes something historically,” explains of a legend; the tenements Cummins. “Scottish people home to the masses. However, were very active partners in there’s rarely little acknowlthe British Empire as well.” edgement of what that title Scottish exceptionalism – the meant then and what it means misguided notion that now. Back then, Glasgow Scotland is less racist and was played an active role in the less involved in colonialism British Empire’s colonialism; and enslavement than other now, the city continues to nations in the past – all too benefit from the wealth often rears its ugly head. brought in by such violence.

CRER’s walking tours are key Those who participate in the to giving a fuller picture, one tours, some having lived here in which Scots aren’t portheir whole lives, say that they trayed as the innocent learned a lot about Glasgow. bystanders they never were.

“They find it quite The tours also look to the

this history, Cummins explains. The information is out there and it’s easily accessible online, in documentaries, in books, and in academic papers. It’s the same material that CRER engages with itself, updating and re-updating the tours as new research comes out.

It’s important to note that CRER’s walking tours aren’t the only way to engage with

“In any Black history work and any anti-racist work, the importance of local histories

can’t be missed,” Cummins says. CRER’s walking tours are testament to this. In journeying through our collective local history, through Glasgow’s streets, we may better understand our past and our present.

See crer.org.uk for further information on CRER and find out more about the walking tours at blackhistorymonthscotland.org/ whats-on/crer-walking-tours

Glasgow City Guide

empowering,” Cummins says.

“I think it can help to strengthen people’s connections with the city.” Glaswegians ought to know their own history – of how their city came to be, of what really went on here. Anti-racism, in the here and now, demands this greater understanding.

67

Glasgow for kids!

By Jimmy, aged 7

Glasgow for Kids THE SKINNY

It’s not all about the grown ups. The city has plenty of things for the kids to do, see, and eat

68

Words: Eilidh Akilade Illustrations: Jimmy, aged 7 and Eric, aged 4

Glasgow for kids!

THE SKINNY

Indoors

70

accompanying adult. There’s also Take 2 Access, the GFT’s Something never gets old about monthly neurodivergentfriendly family film. climbing into a 20th century bus, plonking yourself down in Another classic is The the drivers’ seat, and pressing Time Capsule (100 Buchanan all the buttons at once. The St, Coatbridge), quite frankly Riverside Museum (100 something of a Glaswegian Pointhouse Rd) allows you (and legend for kids. There’s the kids) this unbridled joy. flumes, riptides, a wave pool, This transport museum is home and, not forgetting, a huge to numerous historic vehicles tipping bucket that pours over and the much-loved old swimmers every now and then.

Glasgow street scene. The It’s also ideal for a range of Zaha Hadid-designed building ages, with areas for younger itself is something of an kids that are a little less heavy architectural wonder, and will on the waves.

To let loose even further, have the kids asking all the Flip Out (89A Southcroft Rd) is questions you can’t quite answer – such as, how did they the trampoline park of the moment. There’s also Ryze get all those bikes up there?

Speaking of big questions, the (120 Portman St) and Gravity Glasgow Science Centre (50 over at Xsite (King’s Inch Rd), Pacific Quay) does a pretty so there’s plenty of parks to good job of answering them. choose from.

Games, illusions, interactive For a slightly chiller vibe, exhibitions – it’s educational, Roller Stop (139 Middlesex St), of course, but also really fun, Glasgow’s only roller skating easy to explore, and makes rink, seems just about the for great photos. coolest place for any kid to For rainy days (of which spend a Saturday afternoon. there are plenty) the Glasgow There’s good tunes, disco Film Theatre (GFT) (12 Rose lights, and elbow and knee St) is obviously a must. pads are always on offer.

Specifically, at the weekly The rink also has an Take 2 family films, tickets are accessible roller disco with free for every child under the calmer lights, quieter music, age of 14 and one and a few less skaters.

Outdoors If the kids are more interested in skating outdoors, there’s lots of areas in the city’s West End that are especially ideal for this. Skaters – whether roller or board – can usually be found on Kelvin Walkway and just out the front of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle Street). With no cars but plenty of people around, both spots make for a day’s safe skate.

Kelvingrove Park itself has its own skatepark, right next to the playpark, so it’s an ideal afternoon for kids of different ages and interests.

Of course, in terms of parks, the kids are spoiled for choice in Glasgow. For all things fossilised tree stumps, Fossil Grove in Victoria Park is the go-to. For all things highland cows, Pollok Country Park is the obvious (and

Glasgow for kids!

To eat

By Eric, aged 4

Over in the West End, the Anti-Racist Community Library (Millenium Park, Ashley St) has a range of books for children, young people and adults. The stall is held fortnightly on Sundays from 11am to 1pm. It’s a great way to engage kids with anti-racism early on and the outdoor setting makes for a more relaxed library.

Similarly, tucked away in the West End, The Children’s Wood (76 Kelbourne St) is the last wild space in the area.

Maintained by the local community, the wood is free to use for just about whatever.

There’s great play materials for the kids – tyres, a treehouse, old pots and pans – and some more open grassy areas perfect for community gatherings. It’s truly a space to be cherished.

Glasgow City Guide

probably only) choice. Queen’s Park boasts a nice pond, football pitches, and glasshouses, but in the summer, it’s the Queen’s Park Arena that has all the buzz.

With live music and an open air cinema, it feels like a very cool place to be, for children and adults alike.

Keeping things Southside, Rumpus Room (Landside Lane), an arts project and studio working with young people, children and families, is the kind of place you want to get involved with. Their yard is where it’s at: pottery, painting, woodwork, and a pizza oven – the list goes on. With a strong focus on social action, it’s a great space to get kids thinking a bit more about the world around them and have fun while doing so.

For something a little sweet, Mrs Mitchell’s Sweetie Shop (117 Trongate) is ever so nostalgic and has all the strawberry sherbets a kid could dream of. Alternatively, ice cream parlour Minted (262 Byres Rd) has all the classic flavours, as well as the more over-the-top ones sought after by ten year olds. The staff are lovely, the booths are comfy, and the ice cream doubles up as a perfect hangover cure for adults too.

If you’re wanting lunch and then ice cream, The Brooklyn Cafe (21-23 Minard Rd) is ideal for families.

The Shawlands-based cafe has been there for decades, continuously serving up good paninis and some of the city’s best vanilla ice cream. For something a little more filling, you can’t go wrong with Paesano Pizza (94 Miller St, 471 Great Western Road).

You’ve heard it all before, but it’s popular for a reason. The atmosphere is always lively and the Neapolitan pizzas are served quickly so there’s no long waits for the kids. It simply never misses.

71

Glasgow Zine Library

Do It Yourself We chat with LD, the director of Glasgow Zine Library, about the radical potential of zine-making, and why Glasgow is the perfect city to do it Interview: Anahit Behrooz

Tell me about how Glasgow Zine Library got started?

We waded into the whole thing relatively slowly: a small zine fair at The Old Hairdressers became a zine fair plus a small programme of events, until we outgrew our venue and moved to the CCA. Over the years, we collected about 300 zines from the fair; after doing a few events where we had our collection on display for people to read, we decided to start a library.

THE SKINNY

What is it about zines that drew you to them? How do

72

“Glasgow is a place where things feel possible, and that’s very special” LD, Glasgow Zine Library

they intersect with the ethos of community and radical practice that the library has built itself around?

I found my footing in a small town in Illinois that had DIY cassette labels, zines made in people’s living rooms, and a

Glasgow Zine Library

general drive to put something out into the world regardless of how many people might see it. DIY was the glue that held us together. When I moved to Glasgow, I brought a piece of that town with me.

What drew me to zines as a teen was the non-skilled point of entry. I didn’t need to be able to draw or to have written the great American novel to be able to put something down on paper. For me, that’s the crux of this work: to allow people to try something new in a supportive environment.

Zines are a unique medium because they’re very open and accessible; we use that as the foundation of everything that we do, from how people can read our collection to how they can take part in our events.

Glasgow Zine Library THE SKINNY 74

Is there a particular Scottish radical history in zines that you’re drawing on?

What we really drew on when we started the festival and eventually the library was the history of DIY spaces in Glasgow. I’d read Dr Sarah Lowndes’ book Social Sculpture, which details the rise of artist-led, autonomous arts initiatives in the city, and I knew that I wanted to become part of that. The music scene, artist-led spaces, indie publishing and bookshops; all of these paved the way for organisations like ours to jump in and roll up our sleeves.

In terms of community work, it can be difficult: it’s often bureaucratic, finding-penniesin-the-couch-cushions kind of work. At GZL, we talk a lot about unsexy jobs like liaising garbage pickup with the council. It doesn’t all get to be seeing people’s faces light up as they turn their idea into a physical thing, but every task is vital to keeping things going. We’ve learned a lot by doing, and also by having a team of people with varied experience and a broad range of knowledge. I think more than anything else, you have to love doing it.

What advice do you have for people who want to get into zine-making or this kind of radical community-building?

I think anyone interested in making zines shouldn’t fear the blank page. Doing the first one of anything can be daunting, but zines are a forgiving medium. If you’re looking for inspiration, there are zine libraries, fests and collections that will show you the breadth of what’s possible. If you need some instruction, there are workshops and online tutorials.

What is it about Glasgow that you think lends itself to this kind of radical work?

Its location, the amount of artists who settle here, its history, and its position as a huge cultural city outwith London create the perfect conditions for radical work.

Glasgow is a place where things feel possible, and that’s very special – it’s a city with a long history of collective action, community work, and a huge drive to create.

Glasgow is a city of activists. Here are some of the other organisations, art spaces, and grassroots initiatives building social and creative communities in the city.

Dardishi Dardishi is an arts project dedicated to cultural work created by Arab and North African women and gender minorities. Co-founded and run by Glasgow-based Samar Ziadat, Dardishi is perhaps best known for its annual festival featuring screenings, workshops, and performance at the CCA, as well as its beautifully curated and produced zines and year-round events programme.

Glasgow Zine Library

Grassroots Arts

Kinning Park Complex The heart of Glasgow’s activist community is its diverse and colourful Southside, where Kinning Park Complex is located. Having started out as a school, the Complex has been a community centre for several decades, and has been protected from closure by its loyal neighbours and campaigners, who staged an occupation in 1996 to keep it in the hands of the community. Today, the space hosts workshops, local events and a community kitchen.

Govanhill Baths A listed Edwardian public bathhouse housed in Glasgow’s Govanhill neighbourhood, Govanhill Baths was once slated for closure but was saved by occupations from the local community (can you sense a theme emerging?). The bathhouse’s pools and Turkish baths are currently being restored and are set to reopen later this year; for the non-swimmers out there, the bathhouse runs a yearlong programme of community workshops, festivals, and exhibitions.

Glasgow Zine Library

Glasgow City Guide

Outspoken Arts The legacy of Glasgay! Festival, established in 1993 as a direct response to Section 28, Outspoken Arts today works with communities across various protected characteristics, bringing together a programme of creative events in Paisley and beyond. Their new exhibition space The Art Department in Paisley offers everything from printmaking to pottery classes, while their big open-call exhibition The Big Art Show is set to open in Autumn 2022

75

Index

Key: City Centre

CC

Merchant City, Trongate

MCT

East End

EE

West End

WE

North

N

Finnieston, Partick FP

Southside

S

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Govan GKC

THE SKINNY

Bars

78

Arta 62 Albion St MCT Babbity Bowster 16-18 Blackfriars St MCT Bananamoon 360 Great Western Rd WE Bar 91 91 Candleriggs MCT Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Bier Halle 9 Gordon St CC Bonjour 37-45 Saltmarket MCT Brel 37-42 Ashton Ln WE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Chinaski’s 239 North St FP Delmonicas 68 Virginia St MCT DRAM! 232 Woodlands Rd WE Drygate 85 Drygate EE Dukes Bar 41 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Heraghty’s 708 Pollokshaws Rd S Hillhead Bookclub 17 Vinicombe St WE Katie’s Bar 17 John St MCT

Koelschip Yard 686 Pollokshaws Rd S Maggie May’s 60 Trongate MCT Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Minnesota Fats 1053-1055 Cathcart Rd S Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC Palais 380 Duke St EE Rufus T Firefly 207 Hope St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Star Bar 537-539 Eglinton St S Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Strathduie Bar 3-5 Blackfriars St MCT Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Allison Arms 720 Pollokshaws Rd S The Arlington 130 Woodlands Rd WE The Belle 617 Great Western Rd WE The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The BrewHaus (fka Crosslands) 182 Queen Margaret Dr N The Clutha 169 Stockwell St MCT The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Dolphin 157 Dumbarton Rd FP The Doublet 74 Park Rd WE

The Flying Duck 42 Renfield St CC The Horseshoe Bar 17-19 Drury Ln CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Laurieston 58 Bridge St GKC The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Old Toll Bar 1 Paisley Rd W GKC The Pot Still 154 Hope St CC The Scotia 112 Stockwell St MCT The Smiddy 309 Dumbarton Rd FP The Sparklehorse 16 Dowanhill St FP The State Bar 148-184a Holland St CC The Thornwood 724 Dumbarton Rd FP The Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Rd FP The Underground 6A John St MCT The Variety Bar 401 Sauchiehall St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S WEST 15 Binnie Pl EE

Bookshops A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Aye Aye Books, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Burning House Books 446 Cathcart Rd S Caledonia Books 483 Great Western Rd WE Category Is Books 34 Allison St S Good Press 32 St Andrew St EE Mount Florida Books 1069 Cathcart Rd S

Outwith Books 14 Albert Dr Oxfam Bookshop 330 Byres Rd Ripe Barras Market, Moncur St tell it slant 134 Renfrew St The Passenger Press 24 St Andrews St Voltaire and Rousseau 12 Otago Ln

S WE

EE CC EE WE

Cafes & Bakeries Banh Mi & Tea 340 Dumbarton Rd FP Bee’s Knees Cafe 83 Bowman St S Cafe D’Jaconelli 570 Maryhill Rd N Cafe Gandolfi 64 Albion St MCT Cafe Strange Brew 1082 Pollokshaws Rd S Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Comet Pieces 150 Queen Margaret Dr N Cottonrake Bakery 497 Great Western Rd WE Dear Green 13-27 E Campbell St EE East Coffee Company 30 Hillfoot St EE Gordon Street Coffee 79 Gordon St CC Grain and Grind 742 Pollokshaws Rd S Kaf 5 Hyndland St FP Kelvin Pocket 72 S Woodside Rd WE Kelvingrove Café 1161 Argyle St FP Kitchen Glasgow 11 North Gowar Street GKC Kothel 536 Great Western Rd WE

Tennent’s Bar 191 Byres Rd WE Tinderbox 189 Byres Rd WE The Brooklyn Cafe 21-23 Minard Rd S Transylvania Coffee Shop 462 Victoria Rd S University Cafe 87 Byres Rd WE Wild Flours East 553 Duke St EE Zennor 354 Duke St EE

Valhalla’s Goat 449 Great Western Rd WE

Food On-the-go

Baked 120 Duke St EE Beirut Star 450 Paisley Rd W GKC Brawsome Bagels 292 Dumbarton Rd FP Falafel To Go 116 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Sweet Centre 202 Allison St S Cinemas Hooked S Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) 1027 Cathcart Rd 12 Rose St CC Kurdish Street Food 12-14 Allison St S MacTasso’s Clothes Shops Kelvin Way FP De Courcy’s Arcade 5-21 Cresswell Ln WE Minted 262 Byres Rd WE Minted 105 Kings Ct MCT Mrs Falafel 1 Ashley St WE Mr Ben Mrs Mitchell's Sweetie 6 Kings Ct MCT 117 Trongate MCT Starry Starry Night Piece 19 Dowanside Ln WE 100 Miller St MCT The Blankfaces Shahed’s Takeaway 427 Great Western Rd WE 712 Pollokshaws Rd S The City Retro Fashion 41 King St MCT Shawarma King 113 King St MCT West Vintage 95 King St MCT

Food & Drink Shops

16 Nicholson St 16 Nicholson St GKC 20 Albert Road 20 Albert Rd S Carnival Arts Yard 124 Craighall Rd N Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC Civic House 26 Civic St N David Dale Gallery & Studios 161 Broad St EE

WE EE

Hunterian Gallery and Museum University of Glasgow, 82 Hillhead St WE Gallery of Modern Art 111 Queen St CC Glasgow Print Studio 103 Trongate MCT Glasgow School of Art’s Reid Building 164 Renfrew St CC Glasgow Sculpture Studios 2 Dawson Rd N Glasgow Women’s Library 23 Landressy St EE Govan Project Space 249 Govan Rd GKC Grey Wolf Studios 131 Craighall Rd N Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Kendall Koppe 36-38 Coburg GKC Kiosk Gallery 25 Prince Edward St S Listen Gallery 204 Hunter St EE Market Gallery 334 Duke St EE Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios 37 Clincart Rd S Project Ability 103 Trongate MCT The Alchemy Experiment 157 Byres Rd WE The Art Laundrette 39 Dalhousie St CC The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Burrell Collection Pollok Country Park (2060 Pollokshaws Rd) S The Common Guild 5 Florence St GKC

Glasgow City Guide

Aladdin’s 45 Commerce St GKC Babylon Supermarket 3-5 Commerce St GKC Locavore 449 Dumbarton Rd FP Lupe Pinto’s 313 Great Western Rd WE Roots, Fruits and Flowers 455 Great Western Rd WE SeeWoo 29 Saracen St N

Galleries & Arts Venues

French Street 103-109 French St Goethe-Institute 3 Park Circus

Index

Laboratorio Espresso 93 W Nile St CC Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Mayze 394 Argyle St FP Mesa 567 Duke St EE Milk 452 Victoria Rd S North Star Cafe 108 Queen Margaret Dr N Ocho 8 Speirs Wharf N Outlier 38 London Rd EE Papercup 603 Great Western Rd WE Plantyful 3 Osborne St MCT Rawnchy 98 Bellgrove St EE Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Scherezade 47 Bank St WE Scran 594 Alexandra Pde EE Serenity Now 380 Great Western Rd WE Short Long Black 501 Victoria Rd S Silk Road Deli 34 Minard Rd S Singl-end 263 Renfrew St CC Singl-end 15 John St MCT Sprigg 241 Ingram St MCT Sweet Jane 434 Duke St EE Tantrum Doughnuts 28 Gordon St CC Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse 19-21 Whitehill St EE Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 18 Otago Ln WE

79

Index

The Glasgow Gallery of Photography 57 Glassford St MCT The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N The Lighthouse 11 Mitchell Ln CC The Modern Institute 14-20 Osborne St MCT The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Transmission Gallery 28 King St MCT Trongate 103 103 Trongate MCT SaltSpace 270 High St MCT Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT South Block 60-64 Osborne St MCT Street Level Photography Works 103 Trongate MCT

Homeware & Gift Shops

THE SKINNY

A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Fireworks Studio Garnet Pots 35a Dalhousie St CC Ruthven Mews 57 Ruthven Ln WE Squid Ink Co 18 St Andrew St EE Submarine 8 Kent St EE Wild Gorse Pottery 684 Pollokshaws Rd S

80

Markets & Shopping Centres Argyll Arcade 30 Buchanan St

CC

Buchanan Galleries 220 Buchanan St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Park Lane Market 974 Pollokshaws Rd S Platform 253 Argyle St CC Princes Square Buchanan St CC St Enoch Centre 55 St Enoch Sq CC The Barras Market 242 Gallowgate EE The Big Feed 249-325 Govan Rd GKC The Big Zero Waste Market The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St S The Italian Centre 7 John St MCT The Savoy Centre 140 Sauchiehall St CC Zero Waste Market 17 Hillfoot St EE

Record Shops FOPP 19 Union St CC Love Music 34 Dundas St CC Mixed Up 18 Otago Ln WE Monorail Music 12 Kings Ct MCT Oxfam Music 171 Byres Rd WE Some Great Reward 520 Victoria Rd S

Restaurants Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln Basta 561 Dumbarton Rd Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Rd Bibimbap 3 W Nile St

CC FP S CC

Bread Meats Bread 65 St Vincent St CC Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Ct MCT Cafe Cossachok 10 King St MCT Celentano’s 28-32 Cathedral Sq EE Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Celino’s 235 Dumbarton Rd FP Crabshakk 114 Argyle St FP Dumpling Monkey 121 Dumbarton Rd FP Eighty Eight 88 Dumbarton Rd FP El Perro Negro 152 Woodlands Rd WE Errol's Hot Pizza 379 Victoria Rd S Eusebi Deli 152 Park Rd WE Five March 140 Elderslie St FP Ga Ga 566 Dumbarton Rd FP Gloriosa 1321 Argyle St FP Halloumi 697 Pollokshaws Rd S Hanoi Bike Shop 8 Ruthven Ln WE Inn Deep 445 Great Western Rd WE Julie’s Kopitiam 1109 Pollokshaws Rd Ka Pao 26 Vinicombe St WE Kimchi Cult 14 Chancellor St WE Little Hoi An 26 Allison St S Maki & Ramen 21 Bath St CC Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT

Mezcal 104 Hope St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Mother India 28 Westminster Terr FP Nanakusa 441 Sauchiehall St CC New Anand 76 Nithsdale Rd S Niven’s 72 Nithsdale Rd S Non Viet 536 Sauchiehall St CC Osteria 17 John St MCT Paesano 94 Miller St MCT Paesano 471 Great Western Rd WE Panang 71-72 St Vincent St CC Pizza Punks 90 St Vincent St CC Rafa’s 1103 The Hidden Ln FP Ranjit’s Kitchen 607 Pollokshaws Rd S Rockvilla Pizza 6 Possil Rd N Sacred Tum Tacos 522 Victoria Rd S Sarti 121 Bath St CC Sarti 133 Wellington St CC Slice 15 John St MCT Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Sugo 70 Mitchell St CC Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC Te Seba 393 Great Western Rd WE The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N

Venues: Comedy Clubs The Stand Comedy Club 333 Woodlands Rd WE

Venues: Live Music & Nightclubs

15 Burns St N The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC OVO Hydro Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP The Riding Room 58 Virginia St MCT The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N

Venues: Theatre & Dance Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC King’s Theatre 297 Bath St CC Sharmanka 103 Trongate MCT The Pavillion Theatre 121 Renfield St CC The Theatre Royal 282 Hope St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Tron Theatre Company 63 Trongate MCT Webster’s Theatre 416 Great Western Rd WE

Visitor Attractions Celtic Park Parkhead

EE

Prop Store 24 Craigmont St N Clydeside Distillery 100 Stobcross Rd FP Disc Golf Course Ruchill Park N Firhill Stadium 80 Firhill Rd N Glasgow Science Centre 50 Pacific Quay GKC Gorbals Southern Necropolis Caledonia Rd GKC Govan Old Parish Church 866 Govan Rd GKC Ibrox Stadium 150 Edmiston Dr GKC Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Loading Bay Skatepark Borron St N Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Pinkston Watersports 75 N Canal Bank St N Queen’s Cross Church 870 Garscube Rd N Riverside Museum 100 Pointhouse Rd FP Scotland Street School 225 Scotland St GKC The Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Meadow 76 Kelbourne St N The People’s Palace Glasgow Green, Templeton St EE Photo: Liza Pooor The Duke of Wellington Statue

Glasgow City Guide

Arta 62 Albion St MCT AXM 90 Glassford St MCT Barrowland Ballroom 244 Gallowgate EE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC City Halls & Old Fruitmarket MCT Glasgow Royal Concert Hall 2 Sauchiehall St CC Gravitas 147 North St FP King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272A St Vincent St CC La Cheetah 73 Queen St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC

O2 Academy 121 Eglinton St GKC Òran Mór Top of Byres Rd WE Polo Lounge 84 Wilson St MCT Queen Margaret Union 22 University Gardens WE Room 2 69 Nelson Mandela Pl CC SEC Armadillo Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP SEC Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP St Luke’s & The Winged Ox 17 Bain St EE Stereo 22 Renfield Ln CC Sub Club 22 Jamaica St CC SWG3 100 Eastvale Pl FP The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Berkeley Suite 237 North St FP The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Glad Cafe 1006A Pollokshaws Rd S The Glue Factory

Index

The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Finnieston 1125 Argyle St FP The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Rum Shack 657-659 Pollokshaws Rd S Thundercat 80 Miller St MCT Ting Thai Caravan 19 W Nile St CC Topolobamba 89 St Vincent St CC Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Ln WE

81

Art Bingo

Art Bingo!

Explore the world-renowned ‘Glasgow Art Scene’ in all its forms with this handy bingo card!

Statue topped with a traffic cone

THE SKINNY

David Shrigley’s greatest artwork, Kingsley

82

Christelle Oyiri and Human Threads at Tramway

A Turner Prize winner*

Alice Dansey Wright’s Artist Studio at Platform, Easterhouse

Portrait of Billy Connolly

The Glasgow School of Art

George Wylie’s Monument to Maternity sculpture

Exhibitions at Celine, in the front room of a Glasgow tenement

Explore Glasgow Zine Library

Visit an artist-led space, eg Transmission, Market Gallery, Pipe Factory

Hang out with the ‘art crowd’ at the Laurieston and queer bar and venue Bonjour

*Choose from Susan Phillipsz, Martin Boyce, Douglas Gordon, Martin Creed, Richard Wright, Charlotte Prodger