Simpson's in the Strand Coverage Report September-October 2017

The Savoy Simpson’s in the Strand Media Highlights September - October

Where To Eat & Drink This Week: Fish Pies, Cold Noodles & Buckets Of Mezcal Published: September Circulation: 62,051

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By Rachel Fellows SEP 15, 2017 http://www.esquire.co.uk/food-drink/restaurants/advice/a17265/where-to-eat-drink-this-week-15-september/

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Published: September Circulation: 101,075

Published: September Circulation: 60,000 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

FOOD & TRAVEL

AHEAD OF THE GAME

Fork & Field

UNTRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS SERVING THE BEST MEAT OF THE SEASON

Birds of a feather don’t necessarily eat together, says Anastasia Bernhardt

TOWN

The Game Bird, SW1

COUNTRY

Crab and Lobster, Sidlesham, West Sussex

An eclectic mix of diners congregates at this 350-year-old inn; Goretex-clad birdwatchers who have come to Pagham Harbour, breeding ground for over 200 bird species, sit among well-heeled locals fuelling up after a day at nearby Goodwood. All are united, however, in search of the superb seafood caught by nearby Selsey fishermen, deftly dished up with inspiration from much further afield, like calamari with charred corn and kimchi (though their best dishes are the simplest; plaice with saffron potatoes, for example). Just two things to remember: if it’s warm, claim a table outside for views over the wetland nature reserve, and don’t forget to look at the blackboard, the specials really are that.

Dinner for two, around £80. crab-lobster.co.uk Martha Ortiz comes to London

Dinner in a five-star hotel restaurant in Mayfair sounds like it’s going to be a stuffy affair but The Stafford’s new establishment has all the character of its namesake, Nancy Wake, a resistance fighter who holed up in the American Bar during WWII. It’s a tongue-in-cheek reimagining of a gentleman’s club, where the staff sport hot pink ties feathered with grouse illustrations, the sauce for the wood pigeon is poured from a hip flask with a conspiratorial wink from the waiter and the kiev is presented with a black leather apron in case the truffle butter filling spurts into your lap. Flavours are boisterous and unabashed, much like the 380-year-old, 8,000-bottle strong cellar, which leans towards grand cru Burgundy wines. Bottoms up! Dinner for two, around £180. thestaffordlondon.com

DISHES OF THE MONTH… 1 Buccleuch Estate beef tartare at Simpson’s in the Strand, reopening after a three-month hiatus (simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk). 2 Crispy pork and amaranth tamal at Martha Ortiz’s first Mexican restaurant in London (ellacanta.com). 3 Jollof rice with smoked bone marrow at Ikoyi, where West African dishes are tuned for fine dining (ikoyilondon.com).

NEO BISTRO, W1 You might expect Anjou pigeon to come roasted with porcini, but Alex Harper, the former chef of Fulham’s Michelin-starred pub The Harwood Arms, has other ideas. At this new West End dining room it’s served classically with lentils and celeriac, but with the inspired addition of strawberries (green not red, of course). Finger-lickingly sacrilegious. neobistro.co.uk

ROTH BAR AND GRILL, SOMERSET If you fancy yourself a lone-ranger, try to catch the end of Rashid Johnson’s exhibition about outsiders at Hauser & Wirth (ends 10 September), the culmination of a two-month residency.

It’s also the perfect excuse to sample the Roth Bar & Grill’s loin of roe deer at lunch, served super light with cherry tomatoes, horseradish with peas, radicchio, capers and watercress. rothbarandgrill.co.uk

THE TEST KITCHEN, W1 How do you like your eggs? At his year-long pop-up Adam Simmonds makes pheasant eggs with kohlrabi, girolles and truffle. Cracking. Get in quick though, it might not be on the menu next week as the dishes constantly evolve in reaction to diners’ feedback. The final menu at the end of the pop-up will form the basis of his permanent site. thetestkitchen.uk

September 2017 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 115

Published: September Circulation: 60,000

FOOD & DRINK / (/FOOD-AND-DRINK/)

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In Pictures: Inside Newly Refurbished Simpson’s in the Strand Simpson's in the Strand has just been refurbished for the first time in over 100 years...

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BY CLEMENTINA JACKSON (/AUTHOR/CLEMENTINA/)

Iconic London restaurant Simpson’s in the Strand has just reopened following an extensive and elegant restoration project, but has it managed to address maintain its old-school character and charm? Take Email a look for yourself…

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Take a peek inside historic restaurant Simpson’s in the Strand (https://www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk/) as it reopens after its first restoration in over 100 years.

It still occupies the same Grade II listed building on 100 Strand as it did when it first opened in 1828. Starting as a coffee house and chess club where London’s most important gentlemen came together, it later became known for its excellent food, a legacy which has continued to this day.

A staple since 1848 are the classic silver dinner trolleys used to wheel out joints of meat to be carved table-side – so loved and emblematic of the restaurant are the trollies, that the same ones are used still today. Continuing this tradition is the introduction of a drinks trolley for those who like their Martinis prepared and served tableside, too.

Winston Churchill’s Table at Simpson’s in the Strand

Published: September Circulation: 60,000

The redesign was carried out by highly respected Robert Angell Design International (http://robertangelldesigninternational.com/) who managed to successfully balance historic details with modern touches to bring Simpson’s into the present day, and define it for the future. Note the mosaic floor entranceway which is a nod to the restaurant’s chess club heritage, while at the far end of the restaurant, you’ll still find Winston Churchill’s favourite table next to the fireplace.

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The ‘new look’ Beef Wellington – which is just as delicious as always

New Head Chef William Hemming has also reinvented the menu, introducing some new dishes while of course keeping the firm favourites. The trademark beef roast isn’t going anywhere and is still one of the best roasts in town – but you’ll also find some modern twists on other classic British dishes, such as beef tartar with the addition of potted ox cheek and beef dripping, and a pan-fried sea trout with Scottish mussels and samphire. There’s a strong focus on British produce and seasonal ingredients, and now you’ll even be able to buy some of their signature products from the entraceway shop.

It’s safe to say that Simpson’s hasn’t lost its charm – if anything, the refurbishment has served to bolster its history and bring the restaurant back to its glory days, albeit with fresher paintwork.

Here’s to the next chapter! Why not go and see it for yourself? simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk

(https://www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk/)

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Reproduced by Gorkana under licence from the NLA (newspapers), CLA (magazines), FT (Financial Times/ft.com) or other copyright owner. No further copying (including printing of digital cuttings), digital reproduction/forwarding of the cutting is permitted except under licence from the copyright owner. All FT content is copyright The Financial Times Ltd.

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