The Pro Chef, 2013 May

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 15 MAY 2013

SCALE

- New ideas for local catch

CLEAN

- New tips for kitchen hygiene

CUT

- New trends for chefs’ knives

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Contents

ISSUE 15 MAY 2013

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02

EDITORIAL When the number of chefs in the kitchen match the number of diners in the restaurant, you’d think things would go smoothly, wouldn’t you? Not one night for our editor.

04

OUT AND ABOUT Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management wins the tea challenge, the Baking & Pastry Guild gets covered in chocolate and Australian beef gets a launch party.

09

THE HOTEL SHOW An update of this year’s Hotel Show and related conference.

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THE EGGS FACTOR Chef Simon Barber has been recently promoted to Executive Chef of both the Abu Dhabi Golf Club and Saadiyat Beach Golf Club. But what lurks at the back of his home fridge?

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ROUND TABLE Hygiene in the kitchen is this month’s topic for discussion around the table, sponsored by Dhofar Global.

22

MARKET FOCUS Sharp and to the point, we take our annual look at the state of the market for chefs’ knives - the one tool every chef needs.

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PRODUCT FOCUS Inspiration for cake decorators and information on storing cheeses properly.

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SOURCING Out and about Dubai Fish Market with Chef Andy Campbell, who sorts out the edible from the incredible.

40

SKILLS Top tips for hot stocks!

44

PIMP MY PLATE The Innovation chefs from Chef Middle East turn their hands to a reinvention of the classic Russian fish pie called coulibiac.

48

TOQUE TO ME One of the pair of brothers who helped raise the standard of the British restaurant scene, we salute Michel Roux Sr.

50

FACE TO FACE Well known as a TV chef, but Ed Baines is very much committed to the restaurant scene.

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TRAVEL A global empire meant Portugal’s food heritage is wide.

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THE LAST WORD What does the kitchen of the future look like? Just like this, believes Studio Rygalik.

May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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Editors comment

You want how much?

Having read a recent blog by the always interesting FooDiva about hot restaurant trends in London, I’ve been wondering how relatively slowly new dining concepts hit Dubai, given the normal speed of business and building.

At hotel after hotel, you can imagine the conversations between owner, GM and Executive Chef - “We need an Italian.

And Japanese, of course. A steakhouse would be good. All day dining is a must and a lobby cafe!” This is cookiecutter F&B provision and, despite a good scattering of celebrity names, overpriced bling-based concepts and many hardworking chefs, most of the F&B story in this part of the world is pretty much ‘same old, same old’.

Yes, there are honourable exceptions. Atlantis is looking to roll out eight new casual dining concepts. Jumeirah is about to begin a complete overhaul and refresh of its numerous outlets. And so on. Plus, of course, there are numerous outlets where we can be guaranteed of good, well-prepared food before going home happy.

However, an experience last night made me wonder if some owners and operators have any idea of what food should actually look and taste like. I won’t name the hotel, merely say that it has a high profile, numerous outlets and painfully high pricing policy. I can forgive the phalanxes of serving staff, determined that our glasses be refilled if we even merely glanced at them. I can forget the over-fussiness of service, such as the hushed request to remove our refreshing towelettes some minutes after we had used them and then piled them on the edge of the table.

However, what I find impossible to forgive is eight chefs taking 20 minutes to make a bowl or plate of pasta when there were less than a dozen diners in the restaurant. I find it incomprehensible to understand why none of them realised that serving our food on cold plates was going to fail to keep the food warm. And I find it incredible that we should be asked if we would like a pause between starter and main - a pleasant enough request which was, on closer examination, a way of diverting us from the fact that the kitchen couldn’t produce the food any faster!

Thankfully the meal was a voucher freebie - it would have been the best part of Dhs 2,000 including wine - but there really is no excuse for standards as low as this in a highly visible branded hotel. Raise your game!

In contrast, this lunchtime we went to a dingy mall in Al Quoz, ate a delicious and simply prepared ‘all you can eat’ lunch with salads, 15 food options and desserts for just Dhs 18. No bling. No obsequious service.

No fuss. Just pure value on a plate!

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Out and about

[Left to right] Haresh Mohinani, Chef Uwe Micheel, Merrill Fernando, Chef Michael Kitts and Chef Bernd Uber.

Time for tea?

The Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge seeks to redefine high tea as the world knows it now, by infusing a touch of the contemporary, to create a quality experience as a tribute to real high tea.

T

he Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge was inaugurated by the Fernando family in Colombo, in 2007, with the objective of 'putting the tea back in high tea'.

Professionals and consumers have the chance to take part in the Challenge and the Professional Edition is open to professional culinary teams to craft and prepare their own real high tea, ensuring that each recipe contains Dilmah tea.

The criteria for judging contestants in the Real High Tea Challenge rewards the use of local produce made by artisans and family or owner operated businesses. Ultimately an eminent panel of judges assesses how pleasurable each participating team's suggestion is, in relation to

the values it embodies, the knowledge it shares, the quality and harmony of flavour it represents.

The three judges of the first Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge in the Middle East - World Association of Chefs' Societies Judges Bernd Uber and Chef Uwe Micheel (President of The Emirates Culinary Guild and Director of Kitchens at Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek) and Tea Judge Dilhan Fernando - tasted over 120 tea inspired high tea dishes and 75 cups and glasses of tea, tea cocktails and mocktails over two days of assessing contestants in the pioneering tea gastronomy initiative. Concluding the final session in Abu Dhabi, Uber and Fernando remarked on the quality and creativity of the presentations, which

was unprecedented for the first stage of the Challenge in any country since its inception.

The contest is a global quest to explore a new and contemporary definition of high tea. It was launched by Merrill Fernando, the founder of the family tea company Dilmah, in 2007 who joined his son Dilhan on the first day of the Real High Tea Challenge in the UAE and shared the reasons for his lifelong devotion to tea with culinary professionals at the event. "Real tea is a herb that is naturally good for you, it is pure and it is luxurious, being handpicked and infinite in the variety of its taste, texture and strength. I devoted my life to sharing the pleasure in this wonderful herb and my wish is to share the success of my family brand with the underprivileged."

Fernando was the first tea producer to bring tea that was handpicked, made in the traditional style and branded at source in Sri Lanka, direct to tea drinkers around the world. His struggle against vested interests took nearly four decades although when his Dilmah brand first reached customers 25 years ago it represented a paradigm shift. Until then Ceylon's tea was sold in bulk to benefit traders in developed nations. His story demonstrates the potential of genuinely ethical, grower owned businesses to transform primary industries like tea, coffee, cocoa and others.

The Challenge requires participants to understand the terroir of tea from different regions, demonstrate their understanding of perfect brewing, to research and analyse tea pairing with food, to use tea as an ingredient and to present a genuinely tea inspired high tea.

The judges emphasised respect for purity and the heritage of tea, whilst rewarding original and insightful elements.

The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management team won the Dubai round of the Challenge whilst the St Regis Saadiyat Island was victorious in Abu Dhabi. Both teams, Michael Kitts and Haresh Mohinani from the Emirates Academy and Prasad Kudagoda and Daniela Santobuono from St Regis, will visit Dilmah Tea Gardens in Sri Lanka and enjoy a holiday there as their prize.

The overall Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge UAE Winner is the Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management who will go through to the next round of the Challenge, the 2014 Global final.

The Emirates Academy team was commended for its emphasis on simplicity and their well researched and elegantly crafted presentation.

The technical aspects of brewing and the quality of cuisine as well as the respect accorded to tea in all their dishes, pairings and tea gastronomy, was key to their success.

“AS A GERMAN, I’M NOT THAT USED TO TEA AND I WAS AMAZED TO FIND OUT HOW THE CORRECT PREPARATION REALLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE TO THE FINAL TASTE. I LEARNED A LOT.” - Chef Uwe Micheel

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Out and about

What’s the beef?

The latest major brand launch from food service giant HORECA Trade is Emerald Valley, a premium beef brand originating from Australia. A recent high profile launch party showcased the product.

E

merald Valley is a high-profile brand owned by HORECA's mother company Bidvest and offers 100% pure grass-fed products from cattle raised in the lush hill farms in the Northern Rivers Region of New South Wales, Australia. The superior beef cuts from Emerald Valley are reputed for consistency in quality, natural taste and higher nutritional value.

Emerald Valley is licensed by Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA) and certified by the prestigious Meat Standards Australia (MSA).

Hisham Al Jamil, HORECA Trade's Managing Director, was delighted with the overwhelming response to the launch; "Launching the Emerald Valley brand in the UAE is a marked achievement and a source of pride for us at HORECA. Not only are we bringing in a premium Australian brand, we are going to contribute significantly in upgrading the quality of beef served by the UAE hotel and restaurant industry to the ultimate satisfaction of guests and consumers. It's a small world. Most of the top chefs in the city have already heard about Emerald Valley's outstanding quality. In fact, many had asked what took us long to bring it over. I'm confident that once they've tasted Emerald Valley, there's no turning back to their old beef brand. It's just more superior and economical."

The dinner launch event which was held at Emirates Golf Club on 15th April was attended by invited guests from the hotel and restaurant industry as well as business partners and representatives from Bidvest and media.

HORECA Corporate Chef Marco Kouch arranged a number of food stations where guests had the opportunity to sample Emerald Valley beef in various recipes prepared specially for them. And interactive games focusing on Emerald Valley's product variety, quality and taste entertained the guests and added a special touch to the evening.

"I can imagine the anticipation of fellow chefs in the UAE for a chance to prepare dishes using 100% grass-fed beef. It's got a natural aroma, richer taste and organic excellence. You feel good when you can serve a real special treat like that."

Also present at the launch event was Duncan South, General Manager of Bidvest Meat who was instrumental in Bidvest's venture into grass-fed beef products.

He said, "People here will now be served the kind of beef they should have been enjoying a long time ago. When they read about grass-fed beef from Australia, they can now nod in approval based on their gastronomic experience. It's a

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

“I CAN IMAGINE THE ANTICIPATION OF FELLOW CHEFS IN THE UAE FOR A CHANCE TO PREPARE DISHES USING 100% GRASS-FED BEEF. IT'S GOT A NATURAL AROMA, RICHER TASTE AND ORGANIC EXCELLENCE.” - Chef Marco Kouch

personal milestone for me. Just a few years ago, Bidvest took interest in my grass-fed beef project in Australia; now, we've launched the brand thousands of miles away.‚" Global demand for grass-fed beef has been growing in the past few years. Studies have shown that beef from grass-fed cattle offers more vitamins A and E, as well as twice the level of conjugated linoleic acid or CLA, which are believed to fight

cancer cells and lower risks of diabetes. Other health benefits include lower cholesterol level and higher omega-3 fatty acids which promote cardiovascular health.

Grass-fed beef from Emerald Valley has a DNA of predominantly British & British cross. It arrives in the UAE air freighted with 90 days shelf life, guaranteeing proper stocking and accommodating forecast demands.

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Out and about

Choc till you drop Hosted by Aramtec, the lastest master class organised by the revitalised Baking & Pastry Guild, introduced the techniques of ganache making to a packed room of young pastry chefs.

Y

ou might expect Swiss Daniel Hutmacher to be interested in chocolate, but would hardly have expected him to set up a facility for making 100kg of high quality, handmade chocolate in the wild dessert of Ras Al Khaimah.

Coming up to five years of operation, The Swiss Chocolatiers of the Desert have found a ready market in top hotels such as Banyan Tree, The

Address and Armani for example, airlines and private clients - so much so that Hutmacher doesn’t miss his previous job as regional F&B Director for Movenpick Hotels at all.

At the demo organised by Aramtec and the Baking & Pastry Guild, Hutmacher quickly passed on his enthusiasm to the 60 or so attendees.

Taking them through the process of turning cocoa beans into chocolate, he then showed them how to make ganache with processes many found counter-intuitive. Handing out recipes, Hutmacher explained: “I can give you our recipes - in fact, we’re the only company to do so - but I can’t give you what makes our chocolates special.” With that he held up his arms. “The secret is in my hands and in the skill and experience. Everything we do in pastry is an exact science, but your hands can guide you to small changes when required.”

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Show gathers momentum The Hotel Show 2013 is set to support solid growth in the region's hospitality industry. As gradual economic growth continues across the GCC, the hospitality industry has begun to thrive yet again with increased spending in 2012 and significant growth expected in 2013.

H

elping to fuel the region’s hospitality sector’s ever-increasing growth, The Hotel Show - the leading hospitality and supplies show in the MENA region - is returning for the 14th consecutive year, offering a comprehensive calendar of events that will directly benefit the hotel and hospitality industry.

With the construction industry inching back to normality towards the end of 2012 and the hospitality market close behind, the year ahead looks increasingly positive for hospitality suppliers, in particular interiors which constitute around 10-20% of project value. According to Christine Davidson, Exhibition Director at dmg :: events, which runs the show, “Industry estimates suggest that interior contracting and fit outs in the GCC will reach $9.2b by the end of this year with investment across the sector also set to increase to 17%, up from 12.5% last year.”

This highly adaptive market has driven a rethink of The Hotel Show, which is expanding to provide a complete 360 degree look at the industry from construction, refurbishments and fit out to management and operations. Organised by dmg :: events, the first event in the calendar are the highly anticipated Middle East Hotel Awards, to be announced on May 22nd. “For the first time, we are seperating the award announcements away from The Hotel Show, in order to give a clearer focus on the region’s hospitality achievements,” explains Davidson. “We’ve also taken the opportunity to expand award categories and our judges drawn from various segments of the industry are busy now assessing nominations across 11 categories, which include Best Outdoor Area, Best Hotel Apartment, Best Technology Integration, Best Convention, Conference and/or Banquet Facility and, of course, the keenly fought for Best Hotel award.”

With the awards celebrating outstanding

achievements in the hotel and hospitality sector over the past 12 months, The Hotel Show will follow on the 28th-30th September at Dubai World Trade Centre, alongside a high profile industry conference featuring keynote speakers from a variety of specialised disciplines. Themes explored in the 14th edition of The Hotel Show will include latest industry developments, trends and the changing face of tourism in the region.

Davidson continues: "The 2013 edition of The Hotel Show reflects the strength of the region's robust hospitality industry. As the largest hospitality event of its kind, it is well placed to act as a barometer for the entire sector. The expansion of our content programme is indicative of the renewed confidence and activity in the sector."

The show will feature exhibitors across five core areas, including Interiors & Design, Operating Equipment & Supplies, Technology & Facility Management, Outdoor & Resort Experience and the newest addition, HORECA, for hotel, restaurant and café supplies and equipment. It will also look at investment, architecture and hotel construction.

Again, as part of the rethink and refresh, the established and respected Middle East Spa Awards

will take place during The Hotel Show. And a new show, The Leisure Show, will co-locate alongside the show this year, featuring the latest pools, spas, fitness and sports equipment. It will incorporate Pool & Aqua Leisure, Health & Fitness, Resorts Parks & Attractions and Outdoor Sports & Adventure.

“We’re convinced that both events will offer everything a resort hotel or leisure facility needs,” Davidson insists. “In fact, The Hotel Show continues to help foster sector growth in the Middle East and offers visitors a direct route to the professionals responsible for the some of the largest and most impressive properties in the world. As a key forum in the industry calendar, we are looking forward to delivering an extensive programme of essential information, future trends and inspiration for hoteliers, restaurateurs, owners and developers."

Last year The Hotel Show attracted more than 15,500 industry professionals, a rise of 9% on 2011 visitor numbers. It hosted 450 leading suppliers and consultants from more than 45 countries and 13 international pavilions.

“WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO DELIVERING AN EXTENSIVE PROGRAMME OF ESSENTIAL INFORMATION, FUTURE TRENDS AND INSPIRATION FOR HOTELIERS, RESTAURATEURS, OWNERS AND DEVELOPERS." - Christine Davidson, Exhibition Director.

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May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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The eggs factor

Golf in the Gulf Chef Simon Barber is a busy man.

Recently promoted to Executive Chef of both the Abu Dhabi Golf Club and Saadiyat Beach Golf Club, he still found time to detail for us what lurks at the back of his home fridge. What are his dark secrets?

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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The eggs factor

O

riginally from Manchester, Chef Simon Barber's career spans Europe and the Middle East, with prominent positions held in London, Cannes, Doha, Dubai and Abu Dhabi. At present, he’s the Executive Chef for Troon Golf-managed Abu Dhabi Golf Club and Saadiyat Beach Golf Club, two of the Middle East's finest Championship courses. He oversees three restaurants: the Grille, Cafe 28 and hawksbill restaurant.

That’s quite a change of pace from his last role helping with the opening of The Dubai Mall's Downtown Deli and Madeleine restaurants, The Address Hotel and Dubai Marina Yacht Club.

He started his careeer as Chef De Partie at the Noga Hilton Cannes, where he cooked for stars including the late Michel Jackson, Jack Nicholas and Sharon Stone. He then went on to work at one of London's Oxo Tower, with its breathtaking panoramic views overlooking the Thames.

He first arrived in the Emirates in 2000, where he was to spend five years at the Ritz-Carlton Dubai, overseeing responsibility for La Baie Restaurant. Following this, he spent two years at the Ritz-Carlton Doha, overseeing one of Qatar's most popular fine-dining destinations, La Mer Restaurant, delivering modern European cuisine.

Most recently, he was Executive Chef of Saadiyat Island's FANR Restaurant and Saadiyat Beach Golf Club. In his new role, he plans to focus on natural and fresh ingredients. "I will be looking to bring dishes onto the menu that are both appealing to the eye and palette. I want to particularly focus the dishes around natural and fresh ingredients," he explains.

So what’s in his home fridge?

Heinz Tomato Ketchup for bacon butties.

HP Sauce for eggs.

Eggs - I normally have two or three every morning.

Mature cheddar. I eat this all the time - a strong rich cheese. I would also buy Beaufort but I do think some of the cheese prices over here are a rip off. And I also usually buy Manchego.

Yarra Valley Persian feta. This is one of the best cheeses out there and I am a very big cheese fan.

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SHOPPING PATTERNS The places I shop vary on what I'm looking for.

For general day to day stuff like cheese, meat, bread and pork, I normally go to Spinneys; for vegetables, it’s Lulu; for speciality items like the Persian feta and wholemeal pasta and rice, I go to Milk and Honey; also Salmontini for my smoked salmon but they now sell it in Carrefour as well. I am also in the lucky position to be able to contact suppliers directly if there is something special I need or that I can find in the supermarkets.

I have also recently started to buy meat from Prime Gourmet at the Gold and Diamond Park good quality and great value for money.

It comes in a tin in oil - an old fashioned style tin - with fresh thyme bay leaves and garlic, so when you open it these wonderful aromas come out.

Sweet potatoes. Very healthy.

Pickled beetroot. My old boss when I worked at the Ritz used to say he thought I had a thing

about beetroot on my menus!

Broccoli. Again, like sweet potatoes, very healthy.

Jar of pesto. This is always good when you are short of time and want to throw a quick bowl of pasta together.

Fresh chillies. I grow these on my balcony along with thyme, basil, rosemary, courgettes, cucumbers, tomatoes and sage. They’re great to chop up and throw into a bowl of pasta with the pesto to spice things up.

Pickled onions. Couch food with a big chunk of cheese!

Olives. To have with the pickled onions and cheese.

Cornichons. When I lived in France, I would eat these every day with a few slices of salami and a baguette.

80% chocolate. I prefer rich bitter chocolate to the sickly over sweet regular chocolate and it's better for you.

Milk. I think that’s a given.

White wine. It’s normally a good Kiwi Sauvignon as well as drinking a glass it's good to cook with.

Cream. This is always needed. I normally buy the Elle and Vire mini ones.

Thai curry paste. I've always got a jar of the stuff in the fridge though every time I only use it once!

Fish sauce. The same as the curry paste and probably only gets used once.

Smoked salmon. I normally buy it from a friend who works at Salmontini, it’s smoked here in the UAE and is up there with some of the top brands.

Robinson’s sugar free juice.

Cottage cheese. It’s low fat and full of protein.

Raspberries. I throw them into my morning shake with oats.

Heinz Salad Cream. I love it on everything, though I do buy the light version!

Cans of Heineken and Guinness. I’m not sure what to say here, but a man does love a beer and the Guinness comes in handy for a stew.

May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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Round table

Hassan Massood Executive Chef Radisson Blu, Dubai Media City

Trevor Greene Chef de Cuisine The Address Dubai Marina

Chandra Swamy Head Chef Marriott Dubai Harbour

Good food but is it safe?

We make no apologies for our frequent returns to the issue of hygiene in the kitchen. The rapid growth of the F&B sector means that large numbers of staff new to the standards and controls of a 4- or 5-star kitchen plus the increasing mobility of staff impacting team routines means that Executive Chefs need to be fully on top of hygiene issues, set against the background of the desire to deliver the best food they can and the growing regulatory framework within which they work.

Round table sponsored by:

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Round table

Jean Sara Thomas Food Safety & Hygiene Manager Radisson Blu, Dubai Deira Creek

Manish Law Executive Chef Sheraton Dubai Creek

Tom Reger Private Chef

Round table sponsored by: www.cpimediagroup.com

May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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Round table

T

revor, you've only recently arrived in Dubai from Ontario. What are your initial impressions of the state of food hygiene here?

Trevor Greene: From what I've seen so far, there's a very focused and straightforward approach to food hygiene here. I'm seeing very visible hygiene managers who are constantly checking and looking around. That's great because it gives me the confidence that other outlets have the same kind of focus and standards. Back in Canada, you didn't see hygiene officers as often as you'd have liked to.

So is Dubai ahead of the curve?

Manish Law: I think the reason Dubai is so advanced in food safety regulation and standards is its major thrust to be a tourist hub. So we're seeing best practice in infrastructure development, restaurant offerings, hygiene programmes and so on. It's clear that we should all adhere to the latest best practice and, in Starwood Hotels, we have our own internal audit that is carried out annually in every property globally. That's a global standard which goes beyond many local regulations.

Hassan Massood: I compare Dubai to my time in Manchester, which was equally professional and well-experienced. There's a lot of communication

with the Municipality about problems in the market, which is good and allows you to grow your experience.

Tom Reger: My job means I'm not in a fixed kitchen so when I enter other kitchens I do find problems but my view is simple: if you see a problem then fix it. I think Dubai makes our job much clearer and organised. Recently, I had a job in Nigeria and that was very difficult as I had no trust at all in the supply chain.

Jean Sara Thomas: I think Dubai is far ahead of the curve. I worked at Coca-Cola before I moved into hospitality and there we had very good standards, so my first reaction some eight years ago or so was 'Have I landed in the wrong job?' People didn't seem aware of hygiene issues like the threat of cross-contamination and a lot of staff were very old scholl and asked me who I was to tell them to change behaviour. Now there's a real food safety culture here and most hotels have a food

"FOOD HYGIENE IS BASICALLY JUST COMMON SENSE, FIRST OF ALL, WITH HACCP AS GUIDELINES. AS A CHEF, YOU SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE ENOUGH WITH THE MUNICIPALITY GIVING ADVICE AND GUIDELINES." - Hassan Massood, Executive Chef, Radisson Blu, Dubai Media City Round table sponsored by:

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Round table

or hygiene managert. Our community has really grown thanks to the Municipality's education initiative.

Law: My Health & Safety Manager needs to see the policies to follow. It seems that different inspectors take a different view. We need a solid foundation.

I'm sure each of us have a code for colour coded chopping boards, but are they the same? These things needs to be codified so we all follow the same rules and agree the basic norms.

Thomas: There is a food code and all the inspectors have been trained.

Law: So we're all audited to the same reference point?

Reger: You can download the code, but reading it is like studying for a law degree! We're chefs - we need books with pictures!

Chandra Swamy: We have internal audits, of course, across all Marriott properties. Before we had no hygiene officer and there was a problem with the great of nationalities and different expectations.

Has the introduction of the PIC system made a difference?

Swamy: PIC is a great advance with it covering all shifts. Now the first thing the Municipality needs to do is simply check the PIC checklist. Traceability is critical and it's a great thing to know.

Reger: I remember seeing a food map of New York City with restaurants graded. I think that would be a great help here, as it would make us all aware of common hygiene standards.

Law: Bearing in mind that HACCP is a bit like ISO certificationb, I see a role in using it more in marketing. What is esential about the new systems is that it gives us the ability to talk about and understand processes from farm to fork. We're able to go back to any part of the chain. Yes, that's basic stuff but we need I think to look beyond hygiene

and document other processes, like temperatures.

It's essential to make sure that each step is within the measure of control.

Swamy: We're all dealing with a lot of imported goods. It's basic processes to control what goes on inside our kitchens, but what's happening outside?

Law: As a chef, some rules don't make sense because they're designed to cover all generic food products.

Massood: Food hygiene is basically just common sense, first of all, with HACCP as guidelines. As a chef, you should be responsible enough with the Municipality giving advice and guidelines.

Thomas: There's a similar system to PIC in the US. Law: Of course, training staff to be PIC is an investment that a hotel has to make.

Thomas: As well as a PIC for an outlet - or two if they're close together - a hotel needs to have a hygiene manager. That is, someone in the hotel who ensures that processes are correct.

Are there enough inspectors given the number of outlets?

Massood: One good move is grading establishments based on standards. So, for instance, if you're Grade 1, you get inspected once a year.

Further down, the frequency of visits increases.

Thomas: We certify ourselves and then call the inspectors to come and oversee the external audit.

Reger: I think the inspectiors in Abu Dhabi are stricter, so absolutely I think standards should be set at the federal level.

Massood: I believe the inspectors should be targeting the lower hotels. They began with 4- and 5-star and now, with more resources, they'll move down.

Thomas: Yes, the 4- and 5-star phase is over. Now we're seeing PICs in supermarkets.

One frequent comment I've heard is the problem of instilling strict kitchen hygiene standards in people who come from cultures where things are

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Round table

done in a different way. Your views on that?

Reger: I don't think people should be scared of the control. Don't freak out! We just need to explain the rules and standards to people, because everyone starts with different habits.

Swamy: In Marriott, we have a 30 day induction programme for all new staff, which covers basic food hygiene. Then there's on the job training.

Without such support, it would be hard for a chef to ensure standards.

Reger: If staff are going to stay with you, then you have to train them properly.

Massood: If a chef or sous chef is hiring, then certainly part of the interview should be about hygiene standards. In Radisson Blu, we also have orientation and training programmes, but also refreshers which are part of the appraisal system.

Plus KPIs. I think HACCP rules released in more languages would be useful to help us communicate with the rank and file.

Greene: The situation is a bit different in Canada as most people go to school as part of the process of becoming a chef and restaurants recruit from the schools. That means that they will already have had that training.

We can all know what we should be doing, but still make mistakes. How can you ensure that these are minimised? For example, I've seen a very experienced chef cut vegetables on a board still stained with blood. In an open kitchen…

Massood: People get overloaded. People may not be prepared for a sudden rush of orders.

Law: Can we go completely to a colour code system? For knives, for boards, for tissues? Come on, I can't have 20 different knives to hand. HACCP

needs to reflect an operational role covering basic principles. In reality, I can't stop every thing just to look for my yellow knife.

Reger: That chopping board use was a total fail.

Yes, we understand pressure and how time runs differently, but at the end of the day it's about respect for your customers.

Massood: No excuses but we also have to look at an entire scenario. In a new hotel, the chef has to maintain an operation in a kitchen that is already laid out. If we have larger chillers, then food hygiene best practice is a lot easier than if we're struggling with space issues. Layout can give chefs a lot of issues.

Thomas: Remember, Dubai Municipality has to approve the layout of kitchens.

Massood: Bottom line is this. Management may want to increase revenue, but they have to Round table sponsored by:

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Round table

understand the capacity of the kitchen. There should be certain guidelines like, if you are serving 80 covers, then you must have a walk-in of these dimensions.

Reger: As part of my job, I walk into a lot of kitchens often for the first time and just watching a service, you see so much. Food laying around. I've seen a split shift just desert things still cooking and walk out. My role as a chef is to tell people how it should be done. Things should work without me walkinh in fresh. Discard the rotten tomatoes in your staff and free the strong people to lead and improve the team.

What's your worst kitchen hygiene nightmare?

Thomas: I think being with an inspector on a kitchen visit and everything is perfect until the last cupboard is opened and a roach appears! That's the big horror for me.

Reger: Rats are a major problem in some kitchen.

Law: On Deira side with the wharves, there are a lot of rats.

Massood: We can all follow HACCP but social media can blindside you. Whether the hotel is right or wrong, a bad review on Trip Advisor can spoil everything.

Swamy: I remember once going to see the supplier to whom we'd outsourced our staff meals and opening the walk-in - I was just horrified by what I found. And I'd been eating this food along with my staff!

Law: We used to outsourece and the food was edible, but I took it back in house for same cost.

Is there any reason not to feed your staff as well as your customers? I understand that at Pierre Gagnaire's flagship restaurant in Paris, a different chef has to cook the staff meals each day from a book of Escoffier recipes using the same quality of ingredients that are used in the restaurant.

Reger: Yes, I heard that too. It's a great way to

THE SPONSOR'S TAKE Unfortunately, at the last minute, round table sponsor Chandan Singh, Deputy GM of Dhofar Global, was unable to attend, but we got his view on some of the issues raised.

"The challenges we face is an unreceptive audience outside the immediate hygiene departments. It is usually because they are preoccupied with their own job, but it’s still an issue. I think training new associates requires you to touch base on a daily basis.

"We have found that people are trying to reduce their costs in any way and a number of hotels believe they are saving money because they are not buying tissue, but they don’t factor in the cost of the extra electricity from the hand dryers. But we have now done studies into the rate at which microbes and bacteria multiplies under hand dryers, by as much as 27%, but not with tissues. So not only is it financially more economical, but it’s more hygienic!

Maintaining hygiene awareness is also about psychological impact. That's one reason why we have introduced colour codification of tissues. There are critical areas where you use tissues and we have found lint comes out, contaminating other areas. You cannot see these things with the naked eye when the colour is neutral but this product tackles that issue. We also have a new product that is a disposable towel that is durable enough to be effective, heat resistant up to 210 degrees, and hygienic. It allows hotels to save money and also helps to create best practice."

DHOFAR GLOBAL TRADING Dhofar specialises in delivering quality products that include Italian hygiene paper products, non -woven products and state of the art dispensers, directly importing from Europe. They have a wide customer base in 4- and 5-star hotels. www.dhofartr.com +971 6 530 2525

build people's palates.

No limits, no budget, what is the one thing you would want to change to improve food hygiene standards?

Massood: Redesigning kitchens, especially in properties where there has been a change of use

from, say, apartments to hotel and where a hotel kitchen was never planned from day one.

Law: I'd involve owners and consultants and chefs to work together to understand that kitchens develop and need to change.

Greene: I agree absolutely about the layout. All too often it's back to front and you have to start retrofitting, for example, for more handwashing basins.

Swamy: Owners and managers always want to save money. They need to start planning ahead more.

Are purchasing managers choosing produce on price rather than on quality?

Law: Hotels deliver rooms and F&B is an addition to that. Once you determine your menu's price points then you choose the produce that fits. It's just about aligning expenses to sales.

Thomas: I think more relevant is that there is sufficient equipment. You can't blame the staff if they need more space to do a proper job.

THANK YOU We would like to thank the staff at The Address Dubai Marina for their hospitality in hosting this round table. If you would like to take part in a future discussion, please e-mail: dave.reeder@cpimediagroup.com

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Market focus

The chef’s knife is the single most indispensable tool in any kitchen. Give one to a chef and he can slice, dice, mince, julienne and filet. As such a critical piece of kit, the choice of the right chef’s knife is vital for any young chef’s professional development. We offer some words of advice when it comes to choosing the right one.

A

ssuming that the most popular chef’s knife has an 8-inch blade, its design is simple and its wide range of uses accounts for the fact that its basic shape has remained relatively unchanged. Of course, there have been innovations: new metals, better handle design, some blades roll a bit more, some are thicker, others thinner, but the standard prevails which is a slim, 8-inch triangular blade with a curved cutting edge and a heel tall enough to pinch tightly. As Davide Rizzi, GM of Italian knife manufacturer Fratelli Rizzi stresses, “we need to propose new materials”, especially as in his opinion it is very difficult to get chefs to take seriously “good knives” that are not German or Japanese.

What’s the best choice for you? The simple truth is this: there’s no best knife for everybidy, since your hand size, how you hold a knife and what jobs you’re using it for will determine both what handle type you prefer and the weight of the knife.

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What marks out the exceptional knife - and adds considerably to the price! - is how well the blade holds an edge over time and what maintenance it will require. These may not be priorities at the start of your career when money is an issue, but chefs advancing up the brigade will become increasingly concerned about these features.

That said, given the amount of time a knife spends in your hand, you should make sure you have a good one. Common advice is to but ‘the best knife you can afford’ but, unless you have experience of judging one knife against another, all that advice will do is ensure that you buy the most expensive!

So let’s learn the basics. The best chef’s knives are made from a single piece of steel that runs the entire length of the knife, normally high-carbon stainless steel. Why? Because it’s a very hard metal, it keeps its edge for a good period of time and it won’t rust or discolour like normal carbon steel.

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Market focus

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Market focus

“TRENDS IN THE MARKET? CLEAN LINES, KNIVES THAT ARE NOT TOO EXPENSIVE BUT ARE VERY PROFESSIONAL. SPECIAL DESIGNS AND LIMITED EDITIONS DO NOT HELP TO SELL.” - Davide Rizzi, GM, Fratelli Rizzi

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Market focus

RANDOM TIPS FROM THE MARKET Ceramic knives have the best edge retention, but they are not so hot in terms of edge geometry or the ability to be sharpened easily.

If you don’t sharpen your knives, go serrated!

Serrated edges stay sharper longer than straight edge blades.

For the best edge retention, consider powdered metal knives, Edge retention, East versus West? Japan wins.

Super thin Japanese gyutos cut very easily, but are not recommended for the novice.

It’s worth a try at some stage with a Chinese cleaver - the blade may not be as thin as many knives but the extra weight make them easy to cut with.

Want an an extremely fine edge? Then look at Japanese knives in white carbon steel.

Looking for versatility and general toughness?

Then choose German or French knives over Japanese as they’re pretty forgiving whether you’re chopping onions, filleting fish or even piercing a can.

Some chefs prefer the latter, however, since the softer metal makes them easier to sharpen. That also means, of course, that they need sharpening more often as well.

The part of the steel that lies within the handle is called the tang - a ‘full tang’ if it extends to the end of the handle. Frankly, if the tang does not extend this far, then you probably want to pass over the knife as the full tange ensures strength, better balance and more ease of use.

The next step is being able to distinguish between the three main styles: German. This has a more curved section at the front of the blade. It’s good for chopping up-anddown, in a rocking motion.

French. Straighter and more triangular than the German style, this is best for slicing when you draw the knife back towards you.

Japanese. Easy to spot as hollow indentations in the blade create small air pockets which reduce friction and cut down on stickiness.

Moving from the choice of blade to the handle, you need to ensure that it’s comfortable and fits your hand, as this is the part you’ll be holding for long periods. The classic style is a wooden handle but increased awareness of bacteria lurking in porous wood or at the weak spots (around the rivets or at the point where wood meets stell) means that this type of knife is increasingly frowned on from a food hygiene perspective.

Your options? An all-in-one metal knife or the use of plastic, rubber or composite (wood plus plastic resin) handles. The last appeal to many traditionalists as they still have the appearance of wood, but without the concomitant hygiene issues.

The next part of the knife to consider is the knife

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“MAKE SURE THAT YOUR KNIVES STAY SHARP. WHEN CHEFS CUT THEMSELVES, IT'S NOT BECAUSE THE KNIFE IS SHARP, IT'S BECAUSE THE KNIFE HAS BECOME DULL.” - Thomas Pendarovski, Executive Chef, Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach heel - the widest part of the knife at the rear of the blade where it meets the handle. This part if used by chefs most typically for chopping harder items like carrots, nuts or poultry bones. If you remember your school physics, you’ll recall that a longer blade produces greater leverage for such chopping but there’s a pay-off in that a heavier knife will be more tiring to use. Just behind the heel, where the thick shoulder of steel at the front of the handle meets the spine, is the bolster which both helps to balance the knife and stops your fingers from slipping. The presence of a bolster is a clear indication that a knife has been forged

from a single piece of steel, rather than being stamped from a roll of sheet metal. The thicker the bolster the better, as its thickness demonstrates the original thickness of the steel piece.

Finally, probably the best advice comes from Nicholas Brooke, Consumer Brand Manager at Jashanmal National (local agent for Victorinox): “Buying a knife is like buying a watch - they all look the same but they all have one distinguishing factor. So, buy a knife that is comfortable in the hand, has the correct balance between blade and handle, is easy to maintain, meets hygiene standards and maintains its sharpness.”

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Product focus

COVER AND MOULD

Made in Switzerland, Alipro’s Massa Bianca is a white sugarpaste, also known as fondant icing, ready to roll or rolled icing. An extremely versatile and sweet tasting sugar dough. it's primarily used for covering cakes and cupcakes as well as moulding into shapes and figures to create sugar decorations.

F

or over 70 years, Alipro has been producing specialities and high-quality semi-finished products for bakers, confectioners and the gastronomy industry. Besides Massa Bianca, baking and filling jams as well as jelly glazes, nut fillings, chocolate sprinkles and dessert sauces also form part of the range. One of Alipro's key products for decades, the baking jams are famous for their exceptional fruity flavour, strong colour and baking stability yet are free of AZO-colouring and preservatives. Also of outstanding quality are the jelly glazes: with a high fruit content, they gel immediately and

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don't dry out - not even in the case of notorious fruits such as kiwis, pineapples and bananas.

An independent Swiss family business, Alipro is now under the leadership of the third generation.

Founded in 1942 by Adolf Wälchli, it has been led for the past two years by 35 year-old Marcel Wälchli, while his father, Konrad, is still active in the daily business and sits on the Board of Directors.

For years, leading cake-makers and confectioners across the world have favoured Massa Bianca, the rolled fondant used to cover and decorate cakes and gateaux. Encouraged by its huge success

and the steady rise in demand for special cake decorations, Alipro has developed a number of colour variations for the fondant over the last year so that it is now available in black, red, yellow, blue and green, named Massa Nera, Massa Rossa, Massa Gialla, Massa Blu and Massa Verde. Displaying the same qualities as the pure white Massa Bianca, the coloured fondant is balanced in aroma and taste, is smooth and pliable and resistant to humidity and temperature changes.

White roll-out icing is suitable for both covering cakes and modelling. In addition, because sugarpaste can be shaped and moulded to produce

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Product focus

edible cake trimmings and decorations, it can be used as an alternative to florist paste, however this will depend on the shape and size of what you are making. If you need to make something delicate that needs to hold its shape then add gum tragacanth or CMC powder to the sugarpaste which makes the sugarpaste much stronger and will make it dry hard.

You can easily colour your sugarpaste with paste food colours - add a small amount at a time with a cocktail stick or small knife because the colours are highly concentrated and will be very intense. They also continue to darken a little after you add them so it is always best to colour your icing a shade lighter to begin with.

Cake decorators can also a modelling paste and Royal Icing in the Alipro range too. The modelling paste, available in white, is firmer than Massa Bianca, sets more quickly and lends itself to making figures, flowers and modelled decorations. Royal Icing is a powder mixture used to make piped icing of a consistent quality. After the powder mixture is mixed and beaten with a little water, it can then be spread over cakes or used to create delicate filigree decorations.

Alipro holds regular training sessions at Aramtec’s offices in Dubai, offering step by step instructions to make highly effective figures and cake decorations as well as providing tips and tricks on how to use the products.

FOR YEARS, LEADING CAKE-MAKERS AND CONFECTIONERS ACROSS THE WORLD HAVE FAVOURED MASSA BIANCA, THE ROLLED FONDANT USED TO COVER AND DECORATE CAKES AND GATEAUX.

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Product focus

Keeping your cheese safe Moisture content and composition are the primary factors affecting the keeping quality of cheese. As a general rule, soft, high-moisture cheeses such as cream cheese have a shorter shelf life whilst hard cheeses such as Cheddar have a longer shelf life if handling and storage are carefully controlled. The shelf life of cheese powders (dry cheeses) and dry blends ranges from six to nine months. with the help of the US Dairy Export Council, we look at the recommended storage of US cheeses.

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Product focus

T

o help buyers estimate the projected shelf life of a particular cheese, manufacturers may mark retail packages of cheese with a freshness date. The freshness date, which is not required on packages by US law, is a manufacturer’s estimate of when the flavour and texture of the cheese is best. However, the cheese typically is safe to eat beyond this time.

This date also is important to cheese buyers when managing inventories of soft cheeses with storage periods of less than one month. Bulk point of purchase product displays are proven to increase sales and an increasing number of restaurants like to display cheese to tempt diners. Firm and hard cheeses like Parmesan, Romano, Cheddar and Colby may be displayed out of refrigeration to promote cheese sales in a retail display, or as part of product demonstrations and samplings. Cheese placed on bulk displays or near sampling stations should always be tightly wrapped in plastic film, or in their original factory sealed packages. Products should not be placed in hot spaces near windows and only placed on display for short periods of time.

Freezing cheese is not generally recommended because the freezing process can result in cheese with a grainy or mealy texture, making it more suitable for cooking applications than cheese standalone service. Most cheeses should not be frozen, but if it becomes necessary, some good guidelines include: Cheese should be frozen as quickly as possible to -23C. Frozen cheese should be thawed under refrigeration between 0 to 1C for several days.

After cheese is thawed, it should be stored between 0 to1C for ten days. This process is known as tempering and ensures that the texture and melting performance of the cheese are not affected significantly by frozen storage.

For the best flavour, cheese should not be frozen for more than several months.

Some cheeses freeze better than others and handling instructions vary by cheese variety. When mold-ripened cheeses including bloomy rind, blue and washed-rind cheeses are frozen, the beneficial molds are killed and do not continue to grow after they are frozen and thawed. Before freezing any cheese, it is best to check with your distributor or cheese manufacturer regarding specific freezing guidelines.

US cheese makers produce many cheese varieties that are intended to be stored frozen for long periods. They include IAF (Individually Quick Frozen) cheeses like shredded and diced Mozzarella. Most cheeses that are frozen are used as ingredients in prepared foods and other foods intended to be cooked.

When storing cheese, a general rule is that low-moisture cheeses (less than 50% moisture) can withstand higher temperatures, while highmoisture cheeses (more than 50% moisture) should be kept cold. However, to maintain the high quality of cheese and maximise its shelf life, it is important to adhere to more specific storing, out-

of-refrigeration and freezing guidelines. Storing cheeses at proper temperatures and humidity levels reduces the risk of undesirable flavour development, oiling-off of the milkfat and growth of mold.

All cheeses are best stored at 65% humidity. In the event that mold does grow onthe surface of cheese, simply trim off themoldy sections of the cheese 1 cm below the deepest mold penetration.

This way, the quality of the remaining cheese is not affected. Varieties of mold-ripened cheeses such as blue, Brie and Camembert do not need to be trimmed.

Proper refrigeration greatly extends the usable shelf life of cheese. Storage guidelines vary with different types of cheese, but, as a general rule, cheese should be stored as cool as possible without freezing. Soft-fresh cheeses and more perishable cheeses can be stored at 0 to 1C; firm or harder cheeses can safely be stored at 1 to 3C. Soft cheeses are classified into two groups: soft-fresh cheeses and soft mold-ripened cheeses.

The moisture content for both exceeds 50%. Softfresh cheeses, such as cottage, cream and ricotta, will keep for approximately two to four weeks when refrigerated between 0 to 1C. Warming these cheeses can cause flavour-related or microbiological spoilage, while freezing can cause textural damage. Soft mold-ripened cheeses such as Camembert, which is produced in the United States from cow's milk, should be refrigerated between -1 to 1C. Under these conditions, soft mold-ripened cheeses will keep for approximately two months.

Freezing is not recommended for soft cheeses because of their high moisture content.

Blocks of mozzarella can be frozen and stored between -18 to -29C for one year without adverse effects because its curd is stretched during its manufacturing process. To assure that the texture and melting performance of the cheese are not affected by frozen storage, it should be tempered between 0 to 1C for ten days after the cheese is thawed. It takes up to ten days to thaw.

IQF mozzarella cheese cubes or shreds may be stored for one year between -18 to 29C. Thaw cheese between 0 to 1C for tw days. Once the cheese has thawed, use within ten days.

Semi-soft cheeses are classified into two groups: mold-ripened cheeses often referred to as washed-rind and those without added mold referred to as dry-rind. Moisture content ranges from 44 to 52% for semi-soft cheeses without added mold, such as Monterey jack, fontina, dryrind brick and Muenster. These cheeses should be refrigerated between 0 to 1C. At this temperature, these cheeses will keep for approximately two to three months. Flavour deterioration results from prolonged exposure to warmer temperatures.

Freezing these cheeses is not recommended.

Semi-soft, washed-rind and other moldripened cheeses, such as blue, Brie and Limburger, have a maximum moisture content of 50% and should be refrigerated between 0 to 1C. Under these conditions, these cheeses will keep for approximately two to three months. When stored

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Product focus

at warmer temperatures, they tend to soften, release moisture and may develop unwanted surface mold. The rate at which these quality defects appear varies with storage temperature.

For example, defects are likely to occur after only a few days if cheese is stored at 7C or more. Semisoft washed-rind and other mold-ripened cheeses should not be frozen as the beneficial molds used in their production will be killed by the freezing process and no longer active after they thaw.

The moisture content for hard cheeses, such as Cheddar, Colby and Swiss, range from 36 to 43%.

Generally, hard cheeses intended to be aged for more than three months contain less moisture than mild flavour hard cheeses, which may be sold sooner. Hard cheeses should be refrigerated between 0 to1C. Under this condition hard cheeses will keep for approximately 12 months. However, these cheeses readily withstand short-term, out-ofrefrigeration displays at a maximum temperature of 25C for less than one week. They are susceptible to body and textural changes, such as unsightly oiling-off of the milkfat, when exposed to warmer temperatures. Hard cheeses may be frozen at temperatures lower than -23C. Thawing hard cheese between -2 to 1C over a period of ten days will limit textural changes.

The moisture content of hard grating cheeses (also known as very hard cheeses, such as Parmesan and Romano, is 34% or less before grating. Hard grating cheese may be stored at temperatures lower than 25C and will maintain flavour and texture quality. These cheeses exhibit oiling-off at temperatures above 25C. Grated Parmesan and Romano have a maximum moisture content of 18% and do not require refrigeration as long as the container remains unopened. Under these conditions, these cheeses keep for approximately 12 months. After packages are opened, refrigerate grated cheeses at lower than 4C. Grated Parmesan, Romano or other hard cheeses can be frozen in foodservice or bulk packages. When thawed properly under refrigeration, it performs well in all applications. Grated cheeses in cans should not be frozen because when thawed, condensation often forms inside the container, causing the cheese to lump together.

Pasteurised process cheese is a modified form of cheese that is made by grinding, blending and heating one or more natural cheeses. Pasteurised process cheese may have a maximum moisture content of 43%. The pasteurisation or heating step of this process stops the action of enzymes responsible for the curing of cheese. Therefore, the shelf life of this cheese is extended.

If the cheese maker adds additional milk or

cream to the blended cheese mixture, the product is classified as pasteurised process cheese food and may have a maximum moisture content of 44%.

Pasteurised process cheese spread has more added moisture than pasteurised process cheese food, which makes it spreadable at room temperature.

The maximum moisture content of pasteurised process cheese spread is 60%. The higher moisture content of pasteurisedprocess cheese, cheese food and cheese spread make them more susceptible to the effects of higher temperatures when opened.

Once a package is opened, refrigerate remaining product between 0 to 4C. If unopened, these cheese varieties will keep for approximately six to ten months. Unopened packages of pasteurised process cheese, cheese food and cheese spread are relatively stable in storage lower than 25C and withstand out-of-refrigeration display without risk of spoilage. Therefore, frozen storage is unnecessary.

Cheese manufacturers make cold-pack cheese

by grinding and blending one or more natural cheeses without the use of heat. This way the cheese continues to age. Although cold-pack cheese is more perishable than pasteurised process cheeses, the dairy processor can extend cold-pack's shelf life with an added mold inhibitor (sorbic acid, nisin, sodium propionate or calcium propionate).

Cold-pack cheese products should be refrigerated between -1 to 1C and should not be frozen.

Information kindly supplied by the US Dairy Export Council.

WHEN STORING CHEESE, A GENERAL RULE IS THAT LOWMOISTURE CHEESES (LESS THAN 50% MOISTURE) CAN WITHSTAND HIGHER TEMPERATURES, WHILE HIGH-MOISTURE CHEESES (MORE THAN 50% MOISTURE) SHOULD BE KEPT COLD. Feature sponsored by:

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Middle East Agent

Sourcing

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Sourcing

Off to market we go!

Chefs are busy - we get that. That’s why many rely on trusted suppliers and don’t frequent the local markets, fearing that quality and continuity of supply may be compromised by buying that way. However, chef for hire Andy Campbell is a passionate supporter of local sourcing, devoting time to seeking out regional produce and aiming to include at least one local piece of produce in every dish. We persuaded him to get up early at join us at the Dubai Fish Market in Deira to check out what’s on offer and then provide some ideas on how to use local, sustainable fish.

“This is Hammour. A great, flaky, moist meat perfect for grilling but this is not a sustainable fish so don’t use it!”

“Sultan Ibrahim is my favourite for fish soups. The Sultan Ibraham hedi is similar to Red mullet and well priced.”

“Pomfret is a bit of a small fish for filleting so it’s often cooked whole. It has a low yield but the meat has great flavour - good as pan fried or in a good fish veloute. A Goan favourite!”

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“Milk fish is a good low cost fish, not too dissimilar to grey mullet. Locals often refer to it as Seabass! It’s a bit bony, though does well for staff meals.

If cooked right, it can work in a bouillabaisse or cioppino as it holds together well. Perfect for soups.”

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Sourcing

“Keep your staff happy with fish heads!”

“Two bar sea bream (Faskar) cooked whole in foil is not too dissimilar to Sea bream in taste and texture.”

“Sardines are an old classic - the fisherman’s lunch. They are great just grilled over a hot flame or cleaned and kept in a brine for sandwiches. A Mediterranean favourite.”

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“With Sherri (Spanish emperor) you get one good fillet. Take care if grilling as it dries out quickly, so undercook and let it rest. Great cooked in sauces like curry, marinara or spiced coconut milk.”

“Bori is a low cost fish. Clean it, gut it, dust it with flour and deep fry whole, then serve with a dipping sauce like tartare, tahini or lemon chilli.”

“I think this is Mahi mahi...”

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Sourcing

“Queen fish is a good filleting fish great for fish and chips or goujons. When grilling or pan frying, keep the skin on as it tends to break apart. Once cooked, the skin peels off easy if the fillet is just left to rest for a few minutes.”

“Local blue crab is great steamed, grilled or done in a spicy Thai or masala curry. It’s not bad for a Singapore style dish but a bit small most of the time.

Get to the market early these crabs or get your supplier to get the best ones from Oman or Fujeirah which give a better yield but can prove time consuming to prepare.”

“King fish steaks grill just like tuna or swordfish withe wholesome meat. It’s a local favourite of the locals as you can use it many ways.”

“Omani or local lobster is very colourful when fresh. Personally, I have never been a fan of warm water shellfish as I have been spoilt with Scottish produce. Local lobsters are a much cheaper option though and can be used for raviolis or to liven up seafood cocktails.”

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

“The local Black sole is much like Dover sole just a little less tasty or less flavoursome. For the apprentice, it's a hard one to skin and clean so get the guys at the market to do it - that will make it easy to pour on a little lemon juice seasoning and grill it for a few minutes. Perfect with tarragon cream or bearnaise sauce.”

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Macaron Classic and timeless. Simply delicious.

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Soft and elegant, the «Une Recette Lenôtre Professionnel» macarons are made in accordance with the principles of the traditional French pastry.

This collection consists of six delicious flavours : VANILLA, CHOCOLATE, RASPBERRY, COFFEE, LEMON and Salted Butter Caramel.

www.bridordefrance.com

Skills

Stock rotation Stocks, often mistakenly called bouillons, are one of the cornerstones of a good kitchen and a key ingredient in a recipe, the heart and soul, delivering depth and balance of flavour in a final dish. Without them, food tends to be bland and uninteresting.

Having the time and the necessary skills to make consistent sauces of the highest calibre, however, is a challenge.

However, chefs are now less precious about admitting they will call on help, as long as it does not compromise their dishes.

I

t is the words of legendary French chef, restaurateur and writer Auguste Escoffier which are most likely to resonate with caterers when it comes to this bedrock ingredient: "Stock is everything in cooking, at least in French cooking. Without it, nothing can be done. If one's stock is good, what remains of the work is easy. If, on the other hand, it is bad or merely mediocre, it is hopeless to expect anything approaching a satisfactory result."

The art of making stock from scratch, boiling bones, repeatedly reducing down and skimming, to create a base for sauces, soups and gravy, has been practiced for centuries.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

However, life became significantly easier with the invention of the first bouillon cube by French scientist and inventor Nicolas Appert, who was experimenting in airtight food preservation at the time. Essentially, his product was a concentration of flavour that could be reconstituted with water, offering a quick and easy alternative to scratch making stock.

In 1908, Maggi made the first commercial bouillon cube, which was swiftly followed by the first Oxo stock cube in 1910, both of which used salt as a carrier of flavour. Today, the majority of manufactured bouillons and stocks still contain salt and are largely used for the same purpose, to

deliver depth and balance of flavour in a dish.

Ultimately, using a good bought-in stock is the most cost effective way to deliver great taste in your cooking, with the stock component cost of an average dish arund 25 fils.

A variety of formats of stock are available for food service, however it is worth noting that only very few concentrated stock products (and no pastes or powders) will thicken when reduced, mainly due to the process they go through which denaturises the gelatine. Granules are added to boiling water as a blend of dry ingredients in a fat matrix, granulated for easy dispersion. They are usually used for gravy applications. There are

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Skills

two types of paste: fat and liquid. Fat paste is an ambient product made up of dry ingredients blended typically into 20-25% of semi-hard vegetable fat. When added to hot water, the fat melts and releases the dry ingredients into the water to dissolve. One of the downsides is that the fat and powder mixture forms quite a solid paste and can, therefore, be difficult to use. The product can also be slow to dissolve, while a high fat content can leave a fatty and greasy layer on the surface of the dish. The fat itself imparts no flavour to your cooking and can also oxidise over time to create rancidity. Liquid pastes are a mix of wet extracts and dry ingredients, blended and cooked.

They can be various thicknesses. The thicker they are, the slower they are to dissolve. They can be sticky and difficult to use and cannot be added at any stage of cooking. Often, they need to be refrigerated once opened.

Powders are produced by the blending of dehydrated ingredients and are, usually, instant when added to water. As a powder is finely dispersed, it can be added at any time to a dish during the cooking process and, being ambient, it has a long shelf-life. Powders can be quite concentrated in terms of flavour and need to contain an ingredient to help with dispersion such as maltodextrin, salt or glucose powder.

Flakes are an easily dispersed, instant format that performs similarly to gravy granules, but with a lower fat content. It can, however, still have a fatty, greasy surface and the product may clump during storage as the flakes begin to hydrate from changes in humidity. It is also a very low density product, so the yield of product per pot is low.

RTU ambient or Tetra Pak stocks are simple to make up as the product only needs pouring out and re-heating. It allows what would normally be a short shelf-life, chilled product to be packaged aseptically, resulting in a 'fresh', ready to use product that can be stored unopened long-term without the need to refrigerate. There is also no need for natural or artificial preservatives. From a storage perspective, this is a bulky option. Finally, fresh chilled stock is, generally, a very natural product, produced as a chef would in his kitchen.

However, you are buying a lot of water, which can result in weak flavour, and a consequent need to reduce. As it reduces, it will thicken as the gelatine will still function. Fresh chilled stock must be stored under refrigerated conditions and has a short shelf life and, as it is not a concentrate, a lot of storage space is required in the chiller.

As discussed, stock is one of the cornerstones of a good dish, providing depth and balance of flavour and a good way for caterers to better understand its crucial role is to carry out a quick and easy test.

Make a simple soup with water rather than stock, then split it into two, add a good stock mix to one of them and then compare. Obviously, it will make a difference, but identify how it provides depth and balance to the taste.

Why are stocks bulked out? Without extending or 'bulking out', a stock product could become an extremely expensive concentrate which would also

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DEFINITIONS OF WHAT’S IN THE POT Stock is the result of cooking bones and vegetables resulting in an extract of their flavour, the aim being to produce a full flavour liquid with enough gelatine that it will become full bodied when reduced.

Bouillon is a French word for broth and the word has now been translated to better describe a concentrated and dehydrated stock, usually found in cube form or crystals to be added to water. Bouillon cubes are used to flavour soups and add flavour to food.

The word jus again derives from the French phrase 'au jus', meaning juice, sauce or gravy. Juices are extracted from meats when cooking, reduced and added to a wine, Port or Madeira reduction and other ingredients.

Demi-glace is a rich brown sauce found in classical French cuisine, made from an espagnole which has been enriched by further cooking with roasted meat trimmings and stock. Used by itself or as a base for stews, gravies and braises, it is the combination of brown roux, brown stock and tomatoes. The refinement of this sauce is a half glaze or demi-glace.

Glaces are reductions of meat, fowl, game and fish stock, reduced to the point of glutinous consistency or glace. The word is French for glass or mirror, not to be confused with ice cream!

Gravy is made from the meat juices and dripping in the bottom of the roasting tray.

Stock is used to lift the flavour from the tray and this in turn is then thickened with a beurre manié (equal amounts of soft butter and flour blended to a paste).

be more difficult to use. Products are extended for a better balance of cost, usage and convenience for customers. Extending allows a standardisation of cost and flavour strength between different varieties within a range. Extending a product also has an important function, with the fillers helping with the blending process, storage life and dispersion of the product in use, preventing product lumping. So some bulking is required in all stocks, but should not be at the expense of taste delivery and product performance.

A classic bulker is hydrogenated vegetable oil (HVO) which is a cheap option that is often used in pastes, with vegetable fats used to suspend the dry ingredients. The fat then melts in hot water to disperse the product evenly. In the manufacturing process, the technique is to melt partially hardened fat and then blend in powdered ingredients until a loose paste is formed. This is then pumped into tubs, where the contents set, forming a semisolid mass. The downside to this is, of course, the amount of extra fat that goes into dishes that then has to be removed by the chef. It adds nothing to

the flavour and can lead to significant wastage in use. It can also look unattractive in the final dish.

Three common mistakes are often made when buying stock: Stock is at the top of the price-ranked basket: When pricing a basket of goods, a pot of stock will be the highest, or one of the highest, priced individual items. When under cost pressure, buyers tend to focus on savings on high value items. However, once in the final dish, stock delivers critical depth and balance for only a few cents per portion.

Stock is a low cost commodity: As a low cost proportion of the final dish, stock can be deemed as relatively unimportant and, therefore, purchased without consideration of quality versus value, as a chef might procure a commodity such as salt. To reiterate, stock delivers critical depth and balance for only a few cents per portion.

Buying per kilo: The third common mistake is basing cost comparisons simply on adjusting different pots to a per kilo price equivalent.

Instead, always look at yield and compare price per litre of made up stock, and analyse taste delivered, in-use yields and costs.

Preservatives and antioxidants are mainly used in paste stocks and do exactly what they say on the tin, preserve the product. This is, usually, by stopping rancidity, which occurs due to the amount of fat in a product. Salt and sugars are used in most paste concentrates to keep the water activity low and preserve the products' shelf life. Salt is a well-known flavour enhancer and another cheap bulking agent, but also performs a valuable role as nature's preservative. Salt plays a key role in liquid paste products, maintaining a safe shelflife and controlling water activity. However, high salt levels will not help if there is no flavour to enhance. What is important is to look at the level of salt compared to the product usage level. For example, any higher than 0.7g per 100ml of made up stock is considered high. Maltodextrin and glucose are low sweetness carbohydrates that are deliberately bland and, therefore, do not add much to the product flavour. However they are crucial to the functionality and dispersion of powder products into liquid and, without them, the product would lump. When used in liquid pastes, they act as an important water activity control to ensure the product is safe. There is really no place in a stock mix for starch. However it is used as a cheap filler ingredient in stock and you can add up to 20% of a native starch without any effect on the stock with regards to thickening. Disadvantages include a back taste, a cloudy appearance and a propensity to lump when added to hot water.

Maltodextrin is derived by the processing and breaking down of starch to produce a light, white, fine powder, which disperses very easily and is easily dissolved. It does not thicken when heated. The benefit of using this is that it is tasteless and odourless, making it perfect for extending powder mixes to achieve uniform

May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

41

Skills

BEHIND THE SALT DEBATE

"STOCK IS EVERYTHING IN COOKING. IF ONE'S STOCK IS GOOD, WHAT REMAINS OF THE WORK IS EASY."

Sodium found in salt is an essential nutrient that the body cannot produce itself. It must therefore come from the food we eat. Sodium is critical in maintaining the water balance, muscle activity and correct function of the central nervous system in the human body. A deficiency in sodium will lead to muscle cramps, fatigue and even coma in severe cases.

Despite having an essential nutritional requirement, it is accepted that excessive intake of sodium in salt increases the risk of heart disease and contributes significantly to other serious illnesses, with adults advised by the health authorities not to consume more than 6g of salt a day.

In response to high levels of salt in the diet and the necessity to address this, the UK Food Standards Agency (FSA) targets for manufacturers were introduced in 2006 and followed up with further targets in 2010 and 2012. While these were voluntary for manufacturers, industry and retailer pressure meant these targets have, generally, been adhered to. Current figures show that the average daily adult intake of salt in the UK in 2011 was around 8.1g, a reduction of 1.4g since 2001. However, this is still well above the recommended 6g per day and there is now even more pressure on manufacturers and caterers to provide nutritionally balanced meals and products.

- Auguste Escoffier

serving levels. Maltodextrin is also not hygroscopic (so it doesn't attract moisture from its surrounding environment), which helps when blended with hygroscopic ingredients such as meat extracts.

There are a wide variety of different salt levels in stock mixes. However, usage rate also varies which makes it difficult to understand which products contain the most salt in application. For example, Essential Cuisine Chicken Stock is used at 16g per litre and has a salt content of 35%. In use, this contributes 0.56g per 100ml of made up stock. When compared to a competitor stock with a 25% salt content, you would assume this is the lower salt product. However the usage rate of the competitor stock might be 25g per litre. So, despite the lower salt content, you are using more product and the level of salt when in use is actually higher at 0.62g per 100ml of made up stock.

Weak stock products that lack flavour attempt to boost impact through higher salt addition, or through higher usage rates. This has a minimal effect on flavour quality and almost always results in an over seasoning of the final dish.

When considering buying in stocks, don't automatically go for the habitual brands. Take time to put a variety of stocks to the test, paying close attention to five key points: Make up Appearance

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

Taste Mouth feel Aftertaste With stock, it is very important to taste in hot water. This is the best medium for tasting and seeing how your stocks dissolve, what they look like in a dish and, most importantly, how they taste. You should always weigh out the stocks to the manufacturer's recommended levels as you will immediately see the difference in impact and taste when weighed out properly. When tasting, the best stock has an authentic aroma and the smell of a stockpot on the stove. It must look good, not be too cloudy, have a natural colour, contain no particles or herbs and have little or no fat sitting on the top.

The correct amount of fat in a kitchen-made stock is around 4%, resulting in fine, fat droplets on the surface of the stock. Fat has a lot of taste and

The information in this feature was provided

by Essential Cuisine, a company started by Dorchester-trained chef Nigel Crane in 1995 because he couldn't find a stock which met his exacting chef's standards. www.essentialcuisine.com

to remove it all would affect the overall flavour impact.

Always taste the stock whilst it is hot (not boiling, as you will not be able to taste the stock properly, too tepid and the flavours will not come through). You need to taste at around 65-70C and only taste one stock at a time, drinking water in between. Always take your first taste and swill around your mouth, then the second taste will give you the optimum taste profile. Good stock should not leave an aftertaste nor should it be juicy. If you are tasting a fat-based stock, you will find it coats your mouth and this will affect the taste impact of the stocks. It should also have the right levels of seasoning. If you think the stock you have tasted is already salty, then when you are cooking with it, you must be very aware of your seasoning, whether it is on a portion of meat or in a sauce.

Once you have tasted the stocks in hot water, it is time to use them in your recipes. This will confirm the taste and the seasoning levels you require.

Make sure you consider yield, which is the number of litres produced by the pot, enabling you to calculate the cost per litre. Compare stock prices based on the cost per litre. Generally you will need more of a lower quality stock and it is still unlikely to deliver the taste you seek. You can buy a cheap stock, but is it really worth risking the meal?

Compromising on stock quality is a false economy.

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Pimp my plate

giant Bidvest in a development role brought him to the Middle East for the first time before a shift to Asia as Corporate Development Chef for Pacific West. Finally, he entered his current role.

Executive Chef Jack Brennan started his career in much the same way, with stints in various Michelin establishments in Paris, Grenoble and Bastia, Corsica. He then moved to London to work for Mark Sargent at Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, then moved through the ranks to end up at the 3-star Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road, before joining Scott Price and Nick Alvis working for Gordon Ramsay at Verre in the Hilton Dubai Creek (now Table 9). Next, he returned to London to consult to Waitrose on culinary direction and market development, including work with Heston Blumenthal for his line of Waitrose products. However, he wanted to return to Dubai and became Chef de Cuisine at Jumeirah Emirates Towers before consulting with Emirati company Coco Jalila Chocolates with its culinary strategy.

Now he works hand in hand with Chef John Redding at Chef Middle East.

Complete with smart new knives from Robert Welch and the first Oliver Hardy chefs’ jackets in the UAE, they tackled the coulibiac transformation together.

King of pies Unlike most Russian pastry dishes, coulibiac (fish pie) uses puff instead of shortcrust evidence of the influence of French cuisine on Russian non-peasant dishes. How did John Redding and Jack Brennan from Chef Middle East reinvent this classic?

T

wo chefs who worked respectively for bad boys Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay are now cooking up a storm at Chef Innovations, part of Chef Middle East, dividing their time between new product development and sales visits to chefs across the Emirates to explain what Chef Middle East offers.

Scottish Sales Manager John Redding began his professional life in Paris and Lausanne, before

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

working for Marco Pierre White. The intensity of life at the 2-star Oak Room was followed by headlining Wrangler’s fine dining restaurant, Executive Sous Chef at the Newcastle United ground and then a major sideways step from fine dining to mass catering as one of five Executive Chefs responsible for delivering 22,500 meals at day at the massive BP petrochemical plant at Grangemouth. Next, 15 years with food service

You must have made coulibiac before‚.

John Redding: It’s an absolute old school classic, of course. However, made the traditional way, it’s very labour intensive. Classics keep their place in the repetoire but the issue these days is whether the talent to make them properly is still in the kitchen.

Jack Brennan: We started the thought process by analysing the key ingredients to make sure we incorporated them. Then it was a matter of using modern methods and a twist on the ingredients such as the use of wasabi.

Redding: I’d say the major change we made was the use of the puffed wheat to create a thin crust instead of the traditional puff pastry. It’s a variant of a dish I used to make when I was in Asia using blue-eyed cod. I think it gives the dish a great mouth feel.

Brennan: I’d say that our new version is light and an ideal lunch dish - it’s healthy with the salmon and spinach, it uses good fats and it’s low on carbs.

In visiting and talking to chefs across the Emirates, what trends from other countries would you like to see here?

Brennan: Real street food!

Redding: Food trucks. When I visit London, the thing that strikes me is the number of new markets as the population of London changes - so you see Polish products and Ukranian and so on.

Sustainability of course is also important.

Brennan: I believe we’re starting to see a change here in Dubai at The Courtyard - it’s the roots of something special. Last time I was there I found gluten-free produce, Scottish tablet made locally, beetroot crisps and lots more. People like Ripe are sowing the seeds, the Meat Company, Mama Roti - there are new players all the time. It would

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Pimp my plate

be great to have small food stands making fresh dishes - Pad Thai, for example. Great to have our version of somewhere like Borough Market!

Redding: Asian food is simple and quick - food on the go. I remembering eating on the streets of Rangoon and it felt as if the food was cooked and ready for you before you even finished ordering!

I think everyone enjoys street food where it’s relevant.

Brennan: Imagine a Mexican food truck at events like the Sevens! On the other side, I believe that destination dining will make a comeback somewhere like Zighy Bay, for example. Al Ain could do it too - look at the new Al Ain Palace hotel.

Redding: Growing local is going to be a winner as well, of course.

Looking at your dish, how could you develop it further?

Brennan: Maybe with a puffed rice tuile or using quail eggs.

Redding: I think that depends if it’s going to be a restaurant dish or a developed product for sale.

There are many ways of playing with it - look, if you gave four chefs a chance to rework coulibiac, probably not one of them would think of puffed rice as a crumb.

Coulibiac Serves 4 Ingredients 2 sheets puff pastry, thawed 2 tbps unsalted butter 3 shallots, thinly sliced 225g mushrooms, sliced 1/2 cup white wine 1/4 cup chopped dill 1 cup cooked rice 400g salmon 280g chopped spinach 1 egg salt and pepper

3

4

5

Method 1 Preheat the oven to 200C. 2 Place a skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, sliced shallots and mushrooms. Saute for five minutes to brown the mushrooms.

Then salt and pepper to taste and add the

6

wine. Allow the mushrooms to simmer until the wine has completely reduced and the mushrooms are nearly dry.

Cut one sheet of puff pastry into four squares and place them on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Top each square with 1/4 cup of cooked rice, leaving a border around the edges.

Squeeze the spinach to remove any excess liquid, then layer the spinach over the rice. Sprinkle with a little salt. Once the mushrooms have cooked down, layer them on top of the spinach. Then top each stack with a half-portion of salmon. Salt and pepper the salmon and sprinkle with fresh dill.

Whisk the egg and brush it around the exposed puff pastry edges. Roll the second piece of puff pastry out to a slightly larger square. Cut it into four smaller squares. Lay each square over a salmon stack. Gently seal the edges by crimping with a fork. Brush the remaining egg over the tops, then cut a small vent in the top of each pastry.

Bake for 20-30 minutes until the tops are golden.

What are the challenges you face going out to talk to chefs?

Redding: One thing we’re really aware of is that we need to interact much more with chefs in the further Emirates. It’s unreasonable to expect them to come to Dubai to see us. One great way would be to have a van fitted with a freezer and chiller, then we could drive around and show them sample products.

STEP BY STEP COOKING GUIDE:

Step 1: Mise en place

Step 2: Sushi grade salmon

Step 3: Searing the fish

Step 4: The rice crust

Step 5: Coating the salmon

Step 6: Plating the spinach

Step 7: Plating choices

Step 8: Final touches

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May 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

45

Pimp my plate

Coulibac by Chef Serves 1 Ingredients: 210g Froyas salmon loin 2 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp wasabi puree 100g puffed rice zest of half a lemon 200g leek, white part only, washed thoroughly 100g baby spinach 2 small sheets of puff pastry 20g fresh field mushrooms 2 eggs 50g butter salt and pepper caviar, for garnish micro cress, for garnish

2

3

4 Method: 1 For the pithevier, melt some butter and

soften in a pan the field mushrooms, 20g of sliced white leek and 10g of baby spinach.

Season to taste then set aside to cool.

Place a square of puff pastry on a lightly floured baking sheet and then top with cooled mixture of leeks, mushrooms and spinach. Egg wash the edges, then place 20g of Froyas salmon loin on the top and cover with the second sheet of puff pastry. Seal the edges and crimp to secure the contents. Score the puff pastry pithevier and glaze with the egg wash.

For the leek puree, take the remaining leek and soften without colour and completely cook in a warm pan with a little butter, season to taste then puree in a food processor. Take the puree and pass through a fine sieve. Check and adjust seasoning if required. Cover and keep warm.

Sear all sides of the salmon loin in a hot frying pan.

Take out and leave to cool slightly. Take 100g of puffed rice and with 50g blitz till a powder. Then

5

6 7 8

take the other 50gm and pulse until broken but not powdered. Mix the two components of the puffed rice together. Combine, mustard, wasabi puree and lemon zest. Paint onto salmon loin then coat with the puffed rice combination.

Place the already glazed pithevier in a pre-heated oven at 180C and cook for 12 minutes. Half way through the cooking time place coated salmon loin into oven and finish cooking together.

In a pan of softly rolling boiling water, poach one egg until the yoke is soft.

Sauté the baby spinach and season to taste, Warm a plate of your choice and place sautéed spinach off centre, top with coated salmon, spoon and swipe the leek puree to the side of the salmon loin, place finished pithevier next to leek puree and then top salmon loin with the soft poached egg. Finally, garnish with a small amount of caviar and the micro cress.

“I BELIEVE THAT DESTINATION DINING WILL MAKE A COMEBACK - SOMEWHERE LIKE ZIGHY BAY, FOR EXAMPLE. AL AIN COULD DO IT TOO - LOOK AT THE NEW AL AIN PALACE HOTEL.” - Jack Brennan

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The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Torque to me

48

The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Torque to me

The éminence grise Michel Roux Sr is a French chef and restaurateur who changed the face of fine dining in Britain. With his brother Albert, he opened Le Gavroche (the first three Michelin starred restaurant in Britain) and The Waterside Inn (the first restaurant outside France to hold three stars for a period of 25 years.)

M

aster chef and legendary mentor to many of the world’s greatest chefs, Michel Roux has been wowing the crowds for over four decades in the UK mostly through two restaurants: Le Gavroche Restaurant in Upper Brook Street, London (and its original address Sloane Street) and The Waterside Inn, Bray, established together with his older brother Albert.

Originally from Charolles, the chefs grew up above their family charcuterie and developed a love and appreciation of great produce. Michel started his career as a pastry chef at a young age moving to Paris to work in his chosen profession.

After his apprenticeship ended and, as Albert was working at the British Embassy in Paris as a sous chef, Michel joined him there as the pastry chef for the Embassy. He moved on from there to become a chef in Philippe de Rothschild’s service, while Albert moved to England to work there.

After National Service, he nearly made a major

“ONCE YOU HAVE DISCOVERED THE PLEASURE, RICHNESS, COMPLEXITY AND TASTE SENSATIONS OF FINE CHOCOLATE, YOU WILL NEVER LOOK AT CHOCOLATE IN THE SAME WAY.” - Michel Roux Sr

career change into opera but joined his brother in London, despite not speaking English. His view of English cuisine at the time? “The dark ages.”

In 1967 they opened Le Gavroche, followed in 1972 by both the Waterside Inn and a catering business. Both restaurants won a Michelin star in 1974, when the system was introduced for the first time in the UK, and then two stars each in 1982.

The third star for each came just three years later.

In 1986, the brothers split their restaurant business after a disagreement over direction, with Albert taking Le Gavroche and Michel the Waterside Inn. Michel Roux’s son, Alain Roux, became chef patron of the Waterside Inn a decade ago.

A great number of well known chefs have been trained by one or other of the Roux brothers, with Michel estimating in 2010 that “Half of the Michelin star-holders in Britain come from either my brother’s kitchen or my kitchen”.

These include Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffman.

WORDS OF WISDOM How do you view the innovations coming from molecular gastronomy? Are there lessons there that you’ve taken on board or would consider?

No, my style and my son’s style of cooking is very much classic modern. We don’t stray from that because that is what we do. Every chef is trained to cook in one of the differing styles be it classic, classic modern, eclectic, fusion or molecular gastronomy. For myself, I take classic dishes and present them in a modern manner. I’m not a fan of fusion unless it’s done well and it so often isn’t, however Pierre Gagnaire is a fine example of eclectic French cuisine.

A great chef should be consistent or creative?

Or both?

A great chef needs to be consistent, no doubt.

When you are a great chef of three Michelin star category, you can’t afford to come into your kitchen and think, ‘What should I try and whip up today?’. A consistent chef needs to deliver great excellence every day as an attitude. I need to have great chefs working with me and I can sum up an

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aspiring chef in two minutes as to whether they will attain a Michelin star in their careers.

What do you eat at home? Apart from French, what other cuisines do you enjoy?

I don’t do any cooking at all at home so it’s whatever my wife wishes to make. She’s a wonderful cook being Australian she enjoys making Asian dishes, mostly Thai and Chinese. It’s great as I can relax, leave the cooking at work and concentrate on my other passion, writing. My wife and I are great travellers and enjoy the many wonderful flavours, techniques and produce we encounter when overseas.

Fashions change in food. Do you think classical French cuisine will always be the yardstick by which we judge other cuisines?

I think French cuisine will always be considered one of the best because of its history, produce and techniques and the same can be said for Chinese. To me, they are the oldest and the best as the traditions have been handed down for over a thousand years whereas countries like England and Australia just don’t have that history. France and China have a greater sense

of legendary cooking because it’s had the time to cultivate and master over many centuries. If I have the unfortunate opportunity to dine in a restaurant that isn’t up to standard and they have had the finest produce available to them, I ask myself why did this happen, why isn’t it as appealing as it could have been? I don’t identify the cuisine as being inferior simply because it isn’t French.

So in your view the best restaurants aren’t necessarily French?

No and they’re not in France. The best restaurants in the world can be found in New York. Everywhere you go you’ll find great produce, delightful dining venues, exemplary and highly knowledgeable staff and at an affordable price. France has some of the world’s best restaurants but there aren’t nearly enough on average in comparison.

What’s the single most important useful piece of equipment in the kitchen?

There’s actually two, a pairing knife for its average size and versatility to do anything and a whisk, used for eggs, sauces and again just about anything.

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Face to face

The best of British?

Chef/restauranteur Ed Baines is perhaps best known for his TV work, including the current ‘Britain’s Best Dish’. However, as he explained on a recent demo and master class at Jones the Grocer, he’s passionate about quality, heritage and building on the lessons he learned at the River Cafe.

E

d Baines is the chef and co-owner of Randall & Aubin, the champagne and seafood bar in Soho, London, which helped the revitalisation of the area as a gastro destination. However, success didn’t come overnight. He began his career with a two year apprenticeship with Anton Mosimann at The Dorchester and then spent several years cooking on one of the most exclusive yachts and at hotels in Juan-les-Pins and Queensland, before returning to the UK for jobs at Bibendum and the River Café.

Then headhunted, he became the official Armani chef before being contracted by Mogens Tholstrup to open the very successful Daphne’s in South Kensington, where he spent three years as Head Chef for three years. He then began to build a small restaurant empire before, with his business partner, deciding to focus the company back down to Randall & Aubin and related catering activities.

Now he’s considering expanding the successful outlet into a chain including, perhaps, Dubai.

Randall & Aubin has a really nice feel about it.

How did you get the location?

It was originally a butcher’s shop, dating back to 1908. We luckily were offered it with no premium and rent-free for the first six months but what we didn’t realise was that the space was really rotten and it cost a small fortune to fix!

When it opened, the concept didn’t really take off until the second year and then it became a real success in year three. After that, we took over an old pub, the Ifield, in Chelsea and that really took off and became Pub of the Year, as well as a real celebrity haunt. Celebrities in a back street! I was really enjoying having my own places to run instead of working for other people and we kept on opening other outlets.

So why switch from the Randall & Aubin style and turn to gastro pubs?

The reality is that seafood chains just don’t work - every one has failed.

The thing is that running one is not as straightforward as dishing up pizza or pasta. So we got up to five restaurants and three pubs - all different - and my life was just taken up with meetings. All the problems and concerns of each outlet were different and

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life just became hellish. Really, we had no common goal - I was dealing with seafood, modern Spanish, traditional French, you name it! It was creative madness and, looking back, we were just jumping onto every bandwagon. That’s wrong - a brand has to represent something to people. In the end, my partner and I just said: “Are we enjoying this? Let’s sell them all!”

And is life better with a sharper focus?

Yes, Randall & Aubin makes money and the history of the building is wonderful. It’s always serviced Londoners with fine food and we feel very privileged to be in the space. If we ever moved out, we’d only consider passing it on to someone else who would continue to honour the traditions. For example, we still have a roll of honour from staff who died in World War One, there are medals won by staff when in the armed services, old seals - there’s just so much history. Our focus now is to build the

brand but stay true to that heritage - so we cater for events, we have a delivery service and so on.

You do catering from there?

No, that’s handled down in Waterloo.

Are you planning branded retail products?

It’s something we’ve considered - you know, potted shrimps, that kind of thing. Problem is keeping the integrity of the brand and being able to ensure a 14-day shelf life.

What about expansion?

It’s something we’ll do carefully. In fact, Dubai is a territory we’ve looked at but the most likely next step is a 200-seater in Covent Garden. Finance is an issue, of course, but we think the idea properly planned and managed is pretty much failsafe.

Randall & Aubin was one of the first outlets to start to change the dining and social scene in Soho. How do you view it now?

Well, the whole dynamic has changed and there’s been a complete regeneration , rather like New York City’s Meatpacking district. Most of the old school places have all been vacated - they were just too stuck in their ways to change. You really noticed the difference last year at the Olympics with so many tourists wandering round the West End and discovering Soho. For them, it was so ‘whoo’! The thing that has driven the change I think is the growing awareness of good food and wine. London is so cutting edge, with places like Polpo being a game changer and even we known names like Zilli not being able to keep up. Everyone’s renovating and you’re going to see a lot of nerw places this year.

What makes a successful restaurant?

I think three things above all else. An independent business where the owners can make changes quickly to match market changes.

Atmosphere is critical. And provenance is everything.

Oh, I meant four things!

The right staff are critical to success.

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Face to face

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Face to face

Where are you sourcing from?

We buy everything direct from small suppliers - we have a crab man, a whelks man and so on. I think you can’t cut corners with produce - that part of the traditional values we believe in.

We’re seeing you increasingly on TV. Do you enjoy the ‘celebrity status’?

Well, I’m quite a vivacious character! I’ve been doing TV for 14 years or so and I really like the buzz, although I still find the experience terrifying.

The great thing is what comes off the back of being on TV - travelling, interacting with people and other things I never normally have done

without being on TV. As well as that, it’s now very hard to sell a cookbook without being on television. However, I don’t rely on it as you only appear on TV on the whim of someone else like a producer. I am quite driven, though - I need to be able to pull of any job I tackle and I enjoy being thrown into something when I’m not sure what will be involved.

You’re one of the many alumni of the River Cafe.

How did Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers inspire so many well-known chefs like Theo Randall, Sam and Sam Clark, April Bloomfield, Jessica Boncutter, Steve Parle, Steve Beadle, Jamie Oliver, Hugh

Fearnley-Whittingstall, Tobie Puttock and yourself?

Quite simply, I think, because of the massive amounts of integrity and intelligence that they brought to their cooking. There was an academy approach. Above all, they loved food and everything they did was led by a combination of culinary creativity and an understanding of the eating experience. They always insisted on the best ingredients and had a very natural way of cooking that was very collective in approach - there was a new menu every day based on what produce was best and available. Rose and Ruth really opened your mind to a completely new and exciting approach to cooking.

“I’VE BEEN DOING TV FOR 14 YEARS OR SO AND I REALLY LIKE THE BUZZ, ALTHOUGH I STILL FIND THE EXPERIENCE TERRIFYING. THE GREAT THING IS WHAT COMES OFF THE BACK OF BEING ON TV - TRAVELLING, INTERACTING WITH PEOPLE AND OTHER THINGS I NEVER NORMALLY HAVE DONE WITHOUT BEING ON TV.” 52

The Pro Chef Middle East / May 2013

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Travel

With two new Portuguese outlets creating a buzz in Dubai, we look at the food that created fusion by adopting the tastes, produce and cooking styles of its former colonies.

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Travel

O

t’s a curious irony of history that two old allies - England and Portugal - should both have created global colonial empires based on their sea-faring skills and that both of them would readily adopt the spices that filled those colonies. Whilst other colonial powers like Spain and the Netherlands largely kept their native cuisines, the enthusiasm with which spices wwere appreciated at home kept the fleets of England and Portugal busy worldwide.

Although enjoying largely a Mediterranean cuisine, Portugal added to its ubiquitous olive oil and garlic a wide variety of spices such as piri piri chillies, black pepper, cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. And, of course, dried salted cod (bacalhau), which is a national obsession. Typically mixed with potatoes, onions, hard boiled eggs, olives and lots of olive oil, but the common claim is that there is a different recipe for every day of the year!

Day to day, the diet is simple. Breakfast will be coffee and a bread roll, with lunch and dinner of three courses, which will typically include soup such as the popular caldo verde (potato, shredded kale and chunks of chouriço sausage).

Portugal has a well-developed fishing industry and a great deal of fish and seafood is eaten - in fact, it has Europe’s highest fish consumption per capita and is in the top four globally. Fish is grilled, boiled, poached, simmered, fried, deep-fried, stewed or roasted.

The popular salt cod has been central to the national diet since the 15th century and was originally dried and salted to preserve it when caught in the Atlantic fishing grounds. Fresh sardines simpley grilled are also popular, as are shellfish, octopus, and fish such as hake, lamprey, sea bass and scabbard. Canned fish including sardines and tuna is also eaten widely.

Until reasonably recently, eating meat was out of the reach of the average Portuguese, limited to the upper classes. What meat was eaten was stretched by the addition of vegetables and pulses with long cooking to tenderise cheap cuts of meat. Rather like Pot au feu.

Cozido à Portuguesa mixes several varieties of meat with sausages, pigs’ feet, ham, potatoes,

The ubiquitous cod

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Octopus is popular

carrots, turnips, chickpeas, cabbage and rice.

Cheese is widely produced in Portugal, often from a mixture of goat and sheep milk, or both together. However, it is traditionally not included in recipes but eaten on its own before or after the main dishes. Well-known is the Portuguese love for sweet pastries, many of which date back from the Middle Ages when nuns and monks sold them as a way of supplementing their incomes. Popular are Leite-creme (set egg custard), Arroz doce (rice pudding) and Pastéis de nata (rich custard tarts).

Chickpeas

A mix of meats

Produce on display

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Last word

Objects of desire Conceptualised by Polish design firm Studio Rygalik for an event in 2012, The Kitchen is a collection of seemingly abstract objects that resemble odd creatures but serve specific purposes. In this cleverly designed system, the basic structure is always the same - a freestanding frame consisting of a ring supported on four legs.

This is completed by set of different attachments that turn the frame into different functional objects.

S

tudio Rygalik was established in 2006 by Tomek Rygalik. For the first two years it functioned between London and Lodz, Tomek's hometown. Since 2009, it has been based in Warsaw and Gosia Rygalik joined the team to become a partner in 2012.

Studio Rygalik develops a wide variety of comprehensive projects. The focus is on furniture, products and spaces. The scope is wide - from design, development and implementation of new products to site-specific installations and production of limited editions, as well as objects, dining experiences and workshops that explore

the relations of design, food and eating, thanks to Gosia’s passion for food design.

For a long time, designers and cooks have debated what the kitchen of the future will look like, with countless variations appearing in films and books. Yet the central question - how will people eat in the future? - remains unanswered.

The Studio Rygalik interpretation blends playfulness and utility, with furniture that is multipurpose - tables with hanging bars for cured meats or clothes, a table top that can be used for cutting bread and a standing salad bowl with an IV drip for the dressing.

THE CENTRAL QUESTION - HOW WILL PEOPLE EAT IN THE FUTURE? - REMAINS UNANSWERED. 56

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