The Pro Chef, Issue 06

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 06 AUGUST 2012

IT’S CHILE!

Produce from the south

IT’S CUTTING!

Chefs and their ‘little friend’

IT’S COLOMBO!

Food from the isle of serendipity

PUBLICATION LICENSED BY IMPZ, DUBAI TECHNOLOGY AND MEDIA FREE ZONE AUTHORITY

ISSUE 6 AUGUST 2012

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EDITORIAL The athletes may be fit, but the Olympics’ food policy could use some attention.

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FROM THE WALK-IN Details of some recent studies - barley gets a reclassification and UFS offers tips on getting diners to choose more healthily.

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THE EGGS FACTOR What’s lurking in the home fridge of Michelin star Yannick Alléno? He’s French so expect cheese and wine...

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OUT AND ABOUT Too late for the S Pelligrino food contest in Venice but sharpen your knives for this November!

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COUNTRY FOCUS With the benefit of georgraphical isolation by mountains, desert and ocean, Chilean produce delivers organic quality and a growing market in the UAE.

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MARKET VIEW What’s new in the world of baking? We investigate high end chocolate and take the pulse of the market.

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EQUIPMENT Chefs love their knives. They also seem to love talking about them! We ask the questions - they pick their favourite tools for the job.

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PIMP MY PLATE The idea is simple: we take a favourite recipe and give it to a great chef. The challenge? Cook it as it’s written and then reinvent the dish to fine dining level. Step forward Hugh Gardiner, Corporate Chef at OKKU, who tackles the Indonesian classic, Nasi goreng.

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FACE TO FACE A busy month, with four chefs facing our questions!

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BOOK REVIEW World class chefs and recipes for the home? How does that work, exactly?

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TRAVEL An island of world class beauty, a cuisine that mixes and melds, quality produce - Dave Reeder visits Sri Lanka to eat.

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THE LAST WORD Chefs and sommeliers just love gadgets! And a new one that is taking bars by storm in the USA looks to have uses outside of merely livening up cocktails!

APOLOGY Last issue, our Pimp my plate feature managed to muddle the ingredients for the before and after version of Bigos. The methods are right, but just swop the original and the revised ingredient lists. Sorry Chef Robbie Stokes - people love your version anyway!

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Defuse the obesity time bomb The food service industry needs to face up to its responsibilities in tackling the global obesity epidemic, according to a new report from Unilever Food Solutions (UFS). With one billion overweight adults and a staggering 300 million cases of obesity worldwide, this figure will rise to 1.5 billion by 2015 unless all parties, including the food service industry, take action now.

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Healthy and seductive dishes required

indings from the new report ‘World Menu Report: Seductive Nutrition’ highlight that chefs and operators are not meeting their guests’ needs. Guests want the best of both worlds - healthier options on menus (66%) and a treat when eating out (72%). However, most healthy options are considered to be second rate - less appetising (43%), too expensive (57%) and not very filling (45%)!

In November 2010, Unilever set out the Unilever Sustainable Living Plan. One of its main goals was to help more than one billion people improve their health and well-being by 2020. Now one year into the ten year plan, UFS continues to contribute to the successful results gained so far in reaching this bigger goal.

UFS is now recommending a simple solution to chefs and operators to address this mismatch.

‘Seductive Nutrition’ offers a new approach to menu design which nudges guests to choose a healthier option when eating out and the good news for the industry is that this can help make their businesses healthier too.

The 2011 ‘World Menu Report: What’s in Your Food’ revealed that diners do want much more nutritional information on menus to help them make an informed, healthy choice when eating out. The new report makes it clear that although diners want healthier alternatives on menus, more than two fifths (43%) of people admit a main drawback to them actually ordering a healthy

“WHEN PEOPLE EAT OUT, THEY ARE GENERALLY LOOKING FOR A MEAL AND A DINING EXPERIENCE WHICH THEY CAN’T GET AT HOME. ENSURING OUR GUESTS HAVE A POSITIVE EXPERIENCE WHEN THEY EAT OUT IS AT THE CORE OF A CHEF’S ROLE, BUT WE ALSO NEED TO ENSURE THAT WE ARE DELIVERING ON OUR GUESTS’ NEEDS AND DESIRES. IF THIS MEANS OFFERING DISHES WHICH ARE BETTER FOR YOU ON MENUS, THEN WE NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT THESE DISHES STILL FEEL LIKE A DELICIOUS TREAT FOR PEOPLE.” - Chef Steve Jilleba, Corporate Executive Chef, Unilever Food Solutions

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From the walk-in option is that they believe that healthier dishes sound less tasty when described on a menu.

Aside from this obstacle, there does appear to be a ‘Nutritional Knowledge Gap’ amongst global consumers, as 75% were unable to identify the recommended daily allowance (RDA) of fat for men and women. This suggests that even though consumers want more nutritional information they don’t always understand how to interpret it in relation to their RDAs. Globally, a very high proportion of respondents were unable to identify the recommended daily calorie intake for men and women according to nutritional guidelines. At least 75% in all markets did not know what the recommended daily intake of fat was. Knowledge levels vary considerably across markets, with 55% of German respondents getting within 25% of the correct figure of 2000 calories compared to just 18% in South Africa. The ‚‘Nutritional Knowledge Gap’ was widest in South Africa of all countries surveyed.

Seductive Nutrition For this new study, 5,000 people in ten countries were presented with a healthy dish described on two menus - the first ‘neutral’ and the second more ‘seductive’.

In 90% of the countries surveyed, people were more inclined to choose the dish from the latter menu (ie dishes which included descriptor words such as ‘steamed’, ‘succulent’ and ‘fresh’ proved to be more popular with respondents).

This underlies UFS’ call for all establishments to ensure that healthier options are described on menus in such a way that they combine taste and appeal. For example, Line-caught steamed trout or Spicy, grilled root vegetables with an authentic Italian garlic and olive oil dressing.

But chefs and operators don’t need to overhaul their menus completely in order to deliver this ‘Seductive Nutrition’. Rather, diners would like to see their favourite meals adapted so that they are ‘slightly’ healthier than previously. When asked what they thought should be done to make meals healthier, the top six most popular requests were: Adding plenty of vegetables (34%) Lowering fat content (32%) Reducing portion sizes (26%) Grilling or baking (22%) Using fresh ingredients (20%) Lowering the calorie content (19%) Typical of the change that UFS is championing is South African restaurant Gingko. In the country that came out worst in the new report, Gingko bases its business on providing good food that pleases the senses and sustenance to the body.

AT A GLANCE 66% of consumers worldwide want healthier options when eating out.

43% of people think that healthier options usually sound less appetising.

57% of diners say healthy options tend to be more expensive and 45% think they aren’t filling.

METHODOLOGY ‘World Menu Report: Seductive Nutrition’ is the third installment of an annual global report of eating-out-of-home trends by Unilever Food Solutions. The first and second reports in the series, ‘What’s in Your Food’ and ‘Sustainable Kitchens - Reducing Food Waste’, were released in 2011 as a definitive snapshot of consumer dining habits. World Menu Report research is conducted by BrainJuicer in partnership with salt PR. The research was conducted by interviewing a representative sample of people from ten countries representing both the developed and developing world: USA, UK, China, Germany, Russia, Brazil, Turkey, Poland, South Africa and Indonesia. 5,000 people (500 from each of the ten countries) who eat out at least once a week were questioned.

Research was conducted using BrainJuicer’s signature quali-quant tools like MindReader, a patented approach for asking open-ended questions to deliver richer diagnostics in quantitative research and FaceTrace, a unique approach to measuring emotions.

Owner Catherine Speedie says, “In other words, food which is both delicious and nutritious, food which restores both body and spirit. We’re in this game because we’re passionate about good food, about health and well being and about the bigger planetary picture we humans play such an important role in. Our food is prepared using fresh, whole ingredients of the best quality, without any preservatives or colourants and with as much organic content as possible. Food which is essentially handmade the ‘slow food’ way, so that the ingredients get to speak for themselves.”

Organic, free range and locally grown produce is used as much as possible, as are goods produced by small independent farmers. Dairy products and salad greens are mostly organic, salmon is RSPCA certified wild and red meat, chicken and eggs are all free range, hormone and antibiotic free.

‘Seductive Nutrition’ is about balancing the health and appeal of menus. Chefs can still cook their guests’ favourite dishes and just make them healthier. For example, by using a leaner cut of meat and aromatic spices to flavour instead of lots of salt, the dish is just as tasty and satisfying, sounds delicious and is just a little bit healthier.

What’s the answer?

Unilever Food Solutions is introducing its new ‘Seductive Nutrition’ Service for restaurateurs around the world. The Service will give a range of practical advice and guidance on developing menus to attract and entice both old and new customers with healthier dishes, equal in taste, value for money and as filling as more indulgent menu options.

Gaby Vreeken, President Marketing, Unilever Food Solutions, says: “We believe that all of us in the food service industry have a responsibility to

Typical research questions included: Please indicate how much you agree or disagree with the following with regards to choosing healthy food while eating out: “When eating out, I prefer to treat myself.”

Please indicate how much you agree or disagree with the following: “I would prefer to have slightly healthier food options when eating out.”

Please indicate how much you agree or disagree with the following with regards to choosing healthy food while eating out: “Healthy options tend to be more expensive.”

Please indicate how much you agree or disagree with the following with regards to choosing healthy food while eating out: “The healthy option is not very filling.”

Please indicate how much you agree or disagree with the following with regards to choosing healthy food while eating out: “Often the healthy option is not very tasty.”

What options should restaurants adopt to provide healthier menus?

tackle the global obesity crisis. The insights from this major new study show that the challenges of encouraging healthier diets can be addressed with small changes to existing menus. In essence, it’s no more than a nudge to help guests choose healthier options. Even small steps can have an enormous impact on the health of diners across the world and help to tackle rising obesity levels.”

Reducing as little as 25-50 calories from a dish can prevent long term weight gain in a large proportion of people. For example, if you take a popular dish like a burger and chips, and you decrease the portion size from 150g chips (460 kcal) to 125g baked wedges (135 kcal) and add fresh slice of tomato and basil, you save 325 kcal and also gain the nutritional and flavour benefits of fresh herbs and vegetables.

The overweight and obesity pandemic is now a major global public health concern. One major contributory factor is that many of us now eat food that is prepared outside of the home - in places like restaurants, take-away establishments and canteens. Of concern is that these quick foods are often unhealthy and are typically served in large portions, high in fat, salt and sugar and low in fibre.

As a result many people live in environments that promote the development of obesity as well as conditions such as hypertension, diabetes and high cholesterol.

Attaining a healthy lifestyle meanss wise choices when eating, including food prepared away from home. As food choices play a significant role in the development of cardiovascular disease, it is vital for diners to have access to more healthier food options when eating out. This can play a major role in helping reduce the obesity pandemic and the burden of cardiovascular disease.

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From the walk-in

Bringing BBQ to diners The latest trend from the US restaurant scene is a focus on barbecue, both as a preparation method and flavour.

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specially popular during the American summer months, many restaurants have rolled out limited-time barbecue menus.

“Barbecue is increasingly prevalent on menus,” explains Darren Tristano, Executive VP of Technomic, an industry analyst group. “More than half of all operators we track menu at least one dish with barbecue sauce. Whether it’s introduced in the preparation or as a flavour, barbecue is very versatile and, more importantly, very different depending on regionality.”

In the new ‘Category Close-Up: Barbecue’ report, Technomic finds that 63% of the Top 500 restaurant chains in the US offer barbecue as a flavour, ingredient or preparation style. However, a large majority of all barbecue sauce mentions don’t have a flavour associated with the sauce, indicating large opportunities for operators to offer more innovative barbecue sauce flavours.

Among sauces with a flavour associated with them, sweet/honey-style barbecue sauces are now declining, while spicy/pepper varieties are gaining.

Smoked is the most commonly used barbecue preparation and pork is the most commonly used barbecue protein.

BBQ flavour now popular

Fish to eat soybeans According to United Nations projections, global food production will have to rise by 50% by the year 2030 to meet the demands of a growing global population.

Soybeans are emerging as a critical crop of a healthy and abundant food to feed the world, with soy products providing healthful food in the form of tofu, edamame, soy milk and other vegetarian options.

Most soybean meal, however, is used in animal feed to create valuable protein, such as poultry, pork and fish. The Soy Aquaculture Alliance, an organisation that co-ordinates both research and support for soy use in aquaculture, including in Egypt, states that the most efficient use of soy in animal feed is in fish feed, with one to 1.5 lbs of feed producing one pound of fish.

In comparison, it takes up to 1.9 lbs of feed to produce one pound of poultry and 2.5 lbs of feed to produce one pound of pork.

Aquaculture presents a huge opportunity to

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feed the world one of the healthiest foods on the planet - fish and seafood rich in heart-healthy Omega-3s. In 2011, the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization reported that more fish for human consumption is being produced by aquaculture worldwide than is being caught wild and that the wild harvest is unlikely to ever increase again due to over-fishing.

Also in 2011, Conservation International published a study that showed how aquaculture has the least environmental impact than any other means of protein production globally.

In the last decade, it has been proven that, when done correctly, ocean aquaculture has no significant impact on the ocean environment, while producing high quality marine fish that are in high demand from chefs and consumers.

Food for the future

Did you know‌ The United States is the world’s largest cheese producer, with an award-winning portfolio of over 400 premium cheese varieties, from European-style cheeses to American Originals

Enhance your culinary creations‌ with cheese from the United States

Pepper Jack: Crafted in the

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fs around the world

Roasted Mushroom and U.S. Pepper Jack Ravioli Makes approximately 140 raviolis

“The U.S. Pepper Jack cheese makes a nice creamy blend with the deep avors of the roasted vegetables. The pepper heat from the cheese is a great combination with a rich red sauce, but also works well in a white sauce. Don’t forget to top the dish with some U.S. Parmesan or U.S. Asiago.â€? –Chef John Esser, Consultant Chef for USDEC

Ingredients:

Procedure:

1k cremini mushrooms, quartered 300g yellow onions, chopped 150g garlic cloves, chopped 200ml olive oil 2 tbsp Italian herbs, dry 1 tbsp salt 1 tbsp black pepper 700g U.S. Pepper Jack cheese, shredded 15g at leaf parsley, minced Pasta sheets, thawed (or your own fresh house-made sheets)

Pre-heat convection oven to 200 C. Place mushrooms and onion in a large bowl. In small bowl mix garlic, olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper; pour mixture over mushrooms and toss well.

Place mixture on sheet pans in a single layer. Roast for 10 minutes; decrease oven temperature to 140 C and roast for another 30 minutes. Take mushroom mixture, chop ďŹ ne and chill. When chilled, mix in cheese and parsley. Place 10g of mixture into each ravioli and seal tightly. Filled ravioli can be steamed or boiled; they can be fresh frozen on parchment paper for later use.

U.S. cheese is already available in your market, check today with your local importer/distributor or contact USDEC for a list of local suppliers: # $! )* . !#(+* ! &'& . % #$ %- %! , !(# &!* $ . "'&!

The U.S. Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a free resource to help you ďŹ nd additional information on U.S. cheese applications and distribution channels. We are a non-proďŹ t, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of U.S. dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders.

The eggs factor

What’s in the fridge?

Returning home after a tough service or ready to relax with the family on days off, what go-to items do top chefs have on hand in their fridge?

Without the restaurant walk-in or a team of commis to do the hard work, how does French chef Yannick Alléno manage at home?

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orn in Puteaux into a family of chefs, Alléno was passionate about cooking from a young age, helping his mother in the kitchen. In 1984 he trained in hotel management at the Lycée Santos-Dumont de Saint-Cloud where he finished first in his class and then became an apprentice in pastry in 1986 at the Hotel Lutetia. He then continued his training at the Royal Monceau, Hôtel Meurice, Drouant restaurant at the Hôtel Scribe and elsewhere.

In 2003, he became head of the restaurant of

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the Hôtel Meurice in the heart of Paris, winning a second Michelin star a year later with a third in 2007 at age 39. “This third star was my dream!” he recalls. “It is the result of 23 years of work, of passion and a desire to be the best at all times.

Yet it also marks the beginning of a new life. This third star is a tremendous responsibility and it is now up to me to make it shine. More than ever, I want to progress and perfect my work in order to offer our clients real consistency and a true gastronomic signature.”

He now has another mission: a movement dubbed ‘Paris Terroir’, that he hopes will identify, protect and celebrate the culinary produce of the Paris region, the Ile-de-France.

Alléno opened his own bistro in the 5th arrondissement to showcase the best of local products from within a 50-kilometre radius of Paris, in order to reverse the decline in regional agriculture. Pre-World War II, there were 300 farms within the city’s limits but now there are none at all.

The eggs factor “At least we still have the opportunity to grow things in and around Paris, not like New York where the only available space is on the top of skyscrapers,” Alléno believes.

He thinks the concept important because Paris was not only the historical home of France’s first modern restaurants, but today it is the heart of French cuisine. “The creation of the first Parisian restaurant, just after the French Revolution, is really the beginning of the way we live today - for the first time, there was a menu with a choice of dishes that the diner could chose from.”

His campaign has already had its successes he found the last farmer of white asparagus in Argenteuil, which is now bought by the leading chefs in Paris. And his next challenge is wine: “Chablis is quite close to Paris, so we are also looking around for a place to replant vineyards.”

Meanwhile, in Dubai, the three dining concepts he deveoped with One&Only The Palm, continue to find a happy clientele. “A chef is always taking inspiration from the beauty of a place and from the culture surrounding him. Dubai is an amazing city, very young and open to the world. From the people and cultures to the products and technology, it is a place where everything is possible. Middle Eastern cuisine is a crossroad of spices, smells, colours and tastes. I had to really immerse myself in the products and the local flavours before being able to produce a contemporary cuisine that suits this clientele. It was definitely a challenge to adapt my skills.”

Between them, Zest, 101 Dining Lounge and Bar and STAY by Yannick Alléno demonstrate his skills, but what does he cook when he’s at home. We asked him to reveal the contents of his fridge!

“For my family, I cook simpler dishes but I pay great importance to products.

“It is very important for me to have the best quality ingredients. I usually go on a Sunday to my neighbourhood Parisian market - I do like the atmosphere there. I buy many vegetables and I pay attention to the season. Of course, I cook the seasonal products.

“I LOVE COOKING, BUT MOSTLY I ENJOY THE DISHES I COOK AT HOME FOR MY FAMILY. AT HOME, I COOK SIMPLE RECIPES WITH GOOD INGREDIENTS.”

“Even at home, I am still creating! But, to be honestl I think breakfast is the most important on weekends, I love doing scrambled eggs cooked with fresh goat cheese and fig bread.

“If you open my fridge you will certainly find cheese! I love cheese and you can easily adapt it in all your dishes. And If I am not cooking, then just cheese and wine, it is my favourite.

“I love cooking, but mostly I enjoy the dishes I cook at home for my family. At home, I cook simple recipes with good ingredients. In my restaurants, I try to cook the best, most creative dishes with the best ingredients. I really want to give the best to my clients.”

In Yannick Alléno’s fridge, you’ll find:

Orange juice - My ‘must have’ in the morning.

Homemade marmalade - The perfect ingredient to start my day!

Lemon - An all-rounder that you can use to accompany all dishes.

Cheese - I love to relax with cheese and wine!

Wine - A glass is relaxing with a good meal.

Vegetables - Always good for any kind of dishes.

Eggs - There are so many different ways to cook eggs depending on how you feel at the time.

Fresh herbs - I add fresh herbs to all my dishes. I just love them.

Butter - Another favourite is bread and butter. It is a good side dish with oysters, as well as a small pleasure itself.

Ice cream - Pure pleasure!

Good for ‘me time’ and to relax.

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Out and about

Across the lagoon The twelfth edition of the S Pellegrino Cooking Cup took place on the scenic Venetian Lagoon in June, uniting two Italian passions in a single big event: sailing and fine dining. For years this delectable regatta, organised in collaboration with the historic Venetian yacht club Compagnia della Vela, has attracted sailors, skippers, chefs and fine dining lovers from around the world.

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uring this 12-mile race from the Lido of Venice to the Island of San Giorgio, 50 boats with seasoned crews and talented young chefs engaged in an exciting no-holds-barred challenge to display the best sailing skills and gastronomic ability. While sailors and skippers were busy on deck tacking and jibing to get the best of the winds, a chef was busy executing a dish below deck on each boat, with all the difficulties that entails.

As well as the main competition, S Pellegrino also presented ‘Inside the Cooking’ - a race within the race involving ten boats and ten crews, each with an onboard chef representing a country where the S Pellegrino brand is marketed. Chefs were chosen to represent Italy, China, Belgium, Luxembourg, Australia, Russia, Holland, the UAE and Sweden, amongst others.

In a new twist, this year’s chefs had to prepare a recipe using ingredients from a mystery basket, selected by ALMA, the International School of Italian Cuisine founded by Gualtiero Marchesi.

On early Saturday morning the Rialto Market was busy with chefs on the hunt for the mystery basket ingredients to turn into creative recipes in the course of the race.

Each chef also had to suggest the best water to accompany the dish, whether it was S Pellegrino or Acqua Panna.

The Young Chef Of The Year 2012 was awarded to the Australian chef Richard Ousby whose Grilled Mackeral, Garlic Custard, Peas, Onion, Toasted Rice was judged the best one according to the Jury’s main standards: taste, difficulty of preparation, correct match with wine and water and dish presentation.

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THE JURY Mauro Colagreco, the Argentine chef of the classy two-Michelin-star restaurant Mirazur, in Mentone, France, which is 24th on the 2012 list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Massimo Bottura, standing out among the latest generation of Italian chefs for his maturity as an innovator which earned him 5th place on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2012 for the restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena, which was conferred 3 Michelin stars last year.

Luke Dale Roberts, of The Test Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa, at 74th place on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Daniel Berlin, the emerging Swedish chef and winner of the Young Chef of the Year Award at the 2011 edition of the S Pellegrino Cooking Cup. Dmitry Shurhsakov, of Chaika Restaurant in Moscow, now at 99th place on the 2012 The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Sergio Herman, of the seafood-based Oud Sluis Restaurant in Sluis, Netherlands, the best of the Benelux coming in at number 21 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurant list 2012.

Johnny Gu, Chinese chef and outstanding representative of Singaporean cuisine.

Franco Favaretto, chef at Baccaladivino di Mestre in Venice.

TV presenter and writer Francesca Barberini presided over the jury.

Toque about a prize!

The Golden Toque Middle East has opened for entry. The contest invites local and global chefs to compete for The Golden Toque Middle East Award which will be held at the International Fine Food Festival from 30th October until 2nd November 2012 at Meydan Grandstand, Dubai.

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s well as bragging rights, the winner will enjoy a stay at the luxury Les Trois Rois Hotel in Basel, Switzerland complete with a six course dinner at double Michelin starred restaurant Cheval Blanc, plus a brand new kitchen provided by high-end, high-tech suppliers Teka, as well as other prizes from additional sponsors.

A panel of some of the most respected names in the hospitality and fine dining industry, locally and internationally, have been drawn together to judge the efforts of senior and junior teams.

Contestants will be marked on their culinary skills and talent and will be encouraged to use ingredients provided by local farmers and artisan producers exhibiting at the Posh Picnic area within the International Fine Food Festival. Visitors will

have the opportunity to taste the competition dishes at The Chef’s Table.

According to Claire Tinston, MD of Kraken Events and founder of the International Fine Food Festival, “Initial feedback from the community has been enthusiastic. This is the first competition in the Middle East for chefs, run by chefs and about the chefs, which is why it has such appeal.”

As well as the ultimate award of the Golden Toque Middle East trophy and medals, an Amuse Bouche contest will acknowledge the skills of individuals and teams of junior chefs.

Entry forms for The Golden Toque Middle East are available here: www.ifffestival.com

Challenges of the food market SIAL Middle East is taking nominations for the SIAL Innovation Award which will be announced during SIAL Middle East this November at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre.

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he SIAL Isnnovation Award is a global food accolade presented at each SIAL Group event, which includes SIAL Canada, China, Paris, Brazil and the UAE. This year marks the award’s second iteration in the Middle East.

Innovative concepts to meet the growing demand for healthier food options among Arab consumers are expected to be popular at this year’s exhibition. Interest in natural and organic foodstuffs has been on the upswing in recent years due to improved awareness of the role of nutrition in the prevalence of diabetes and other health threats identified with the region.

Wealthy and multicultural residents are drawn to innovations that tap unique local foods, such as camel milk and dates which have been drawing

overwhelming attention from SIAL editions in Abu Dhabi, Paris and Shanghai. The UAE’s dates were judged the best-selling product at the recent SIAL China event in Shanghai.

Ten creative concepts will be chosen and displayed within SIAL Middle East’s Innovation Observatory, with an overall winner to be announced on November 26th.

The top ten products will also be displayed at SIAL Innovation Observatories in Canada, China and Brazil in 2013 and SIAL Paris in 2014, giving companies a marketing opportunity to test their products in these markets.

Exhibitors can nominate products via: www.sialme.com until October 12th

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Country focus

Chile - uniquely natural Chile is a country of startling contrasts and extreme beauty. Located on the west coast of South America, it is 2,700 miles long and uniquely narrow with an average width is only 110 miles. Its length and extraordinarily diverse geography provides an unsurpassed climatic range and soils that are suitable for a very wide range of food production. Chile currently exports a wide variety of high-quality food products.

C

hile has become a food producing and exporting powerhouse because of its privileged natural conditions for food production, entrepreneurial spirit, democratic stability, commitment to free trade, environmental sustainability and sound economic management.

It enjoys low inflation and fiscal surplus that have been key elements for facing the economic crisis successfully. Chile’s unique natural gifts combined with its skilled agricultural professionals and technologically advanced infrastructure

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13

Country focus give Chile the ability both to produce and export a large variety of whole and processed foods of unsurpassed quality, purity and consistency.

According to Carlos Salas, Trade Commissioner of Chile in the UAE, “A great deal of our success comes from the fact that we’re very green, very organic. Chile has a history of no agricultural pests, mainly because of our geographical position with mountains to the south, desert to the north and the ocean to the west. That semi-isolation gives our agriculture great strength and great quality!” As a result, Chilean farmers use many fewer agrochemicals than most food producing regions in the world.

Chile is currently a leading producer and an exporter of some of the finest vegetables, fruits, berries, fish, shellfish, poultry, meats and, of course, premium wines. Chile is the world’s largest exporter of fresh grapes (29%), plums (23%) and fresh fish fillets (22%); the world’s second largest exporter of frozen Pacific salmon (30%), avocados (16%) and other frozen fish (10%). Chile is the fifth largest exporter in the world of wine (5%) and frozen pork meat (5%).

“As well as the fresh grapes, we’re also now supply about two-thirds of the world’s raisins,” Salas explains. “Our dried fruits have found a very receptive market here in the UAE, with a great percentage re-exported across the Gulf.”

Chilean foods consistently win awards for their taste and quality in various international food competitions. For example, Chilean olive oils have received international acclaim at competitions including the Leone D’Oro dei Mastri Oleari 2006, Parma, Italia and the Sol d’Oro 2006, Diploma di Gran Menzione. A Chilean cheese received the American Cheese Society award, while Chilean lamb has been recognised as the Best Organic Product from ANUGA. As a southern hemisphere country, growing seasons in Chile run counter to the growing seasons of countries in the northern hemisphere, meaning it supplies high quality fresh fruits and vegetables to northern hemisphere countries during their winter months. Chilean vegetables, fruits, berries, fish, shellfish and meats are exported as fresh, frozen and processed foods, in both regular and, increasingly, in organic forms.

Chile’s prodigious food production is the result of the convergence of several factors. Chile’s exceptionally fertile soils and pristine waters are largely the result of its geographical remoteness - the country has natural barriers that protect it from the diseases and parasites common to most other agricultural areas. Chile is considered one of the world’s naturally cleanest environments for food production. And its diverse climates enable food production throughout the country. In the north, the desert provides habitat for goats and tropical conditions for carica; the central climate is ideal for produce, olives and wines; the region to the south provides a habitat for dairy and salmon; Patagonia provides excellent conditions for meat production and the cold Pacific waters are home to high-quality seafood.

The country’s agricultural statistics tell a story of dramatic growth. Its food industry is one of the

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Quality salmon being processed for export

“A HISTORY OF NO AGRICULTURAL PESTS, MAINLY BECAUSE OF OUR GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION WITH MOUNTAINS TO THE SOUTH, DESERT TO THE NORTH AND THE OCEAN TO THE WEST.” - Carlos Salas, Trade Commissioner of Chile in the UAE

Serving up fresh ingredients since 1868.

A dash of creativity. A pinch of inspiration. Add to that the delicious range of Knorr seasonings, sauces and soups and you get the perfect meal that will keep your guests coming back for more!

Unilever Food Solutions: Tel. +971 4 881 5552 | UAE Distributor: +971 4 347 0444 / +971 4 347 3455 For more information, email: mohammad.shanawani@unilever.com

Country focus

20% of Chileans work in the food industry most dynamic sectors of the Chilean economy. It represents around 24% of GDP and it is now the second most important exporting sector.

The Chilean food industry employs more than one million people, representing around 20% of the country’s workforce. It is expected that by the year 2030, GDP generated by the food sector will account for more than 35% of Chile’s GDP and one out of three workers will have jobs within the food sector.

Chile is now ranked 17th amongst the world’s leading food exporting countries. Its food exports have grown at an average annual rate of about 10% over the past ten years, making it the world’s fastest growing food exporter. If this rate of growth continues, by 2010, Chile will be among

the top ten food exporters in the world.

Chile supplies more than 150 countries with fresh and processed foods and beverages. Around the world, consumers prize Chile’s food products for their purity and wholesomeness, the result of Chile’s state-of-the-art farming techniques and uniquely isolated, diverse geography.

Chilean seafood Chilean salmon, sea bass (Patagonian toothfish), oysters, and scallops are sought after by the world’s most demanding connoisseurs.

Chile’s close-in coastal waters and its Exclusive Economic Zone (200 nautical miles) encompass three large marine ecosystems: The northern zone is where sardines, anchovies

and mackerel are fished.

The central-southern zone is where open ocean species such as the common hake (similar to cod) and crustaceans such as shrimp are found.

The southern zone where Chilean Salmon, sea bass, clams, sea urchins, abalones, king crab and snow crab are harvested.

Chile is a leader in aquaculture research. The country has formed the Salmon Technological Institute (INTESAL) to research and promote best practices in aquaculture by certifying companies in accordance with international ISO standards.

As a result, Chile is now the second largest world producer and exporter of salmon. And it is moving towards overtaking Norway, the world’s current salmon export market leader.

CHILE IS NOW RANKED 17TH AMONGST THE WORLD’S LEADING FOOD EXPORTING COUNTRIES. ITS FOOD EXPORTS HAVE GROWN AT AN AVERAGE ANNUAL RATE OF ABOUT 10% OVER THE PAST TEN YEARS, MAKING IT THE WORLD’S FASTEST GROWING FOOD EXPORTER. 16

Country focus

THE GLOBAL GOURMET

Natural produce The country’s salmon industry is widely recognised for both its advanced techniques and high-quality products, which range from fresh and frozen fish, to smoked and canned salmon. Chile exported over $2.2 billion worth of various salmon products in 2006.

According to Salas, “Chilean fish exports to the Middle East are very strong in the frozen sector, partly because of the distanced and partly the quality.” Chile is a very active participant in forming international agreements aimed at protecting and preserving the world’s fisheries.

For example, Chile is a party to the United Nations Convention on Law of the Sea, signed in 1982 and ratified in 1997, as well as being a party to the CCAMLR (Convention on the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources), signed in 1982, which is part of the Antarctic Treaty system.

“To give you an idea of how advanced we are in the industry,” Salas says, “when Norway had a real parasite problem in its salmon farms, we resupplied every farm with eggs after the Norwegians were obliged to destroy all their stocks. We’re now a sustainable industry and Norway, long thought of as the world leader in this field, is now copying us! That’s a big deal” Fruits and vegetables The mild, Mediterranean-style climate of Chile’s central region is ideal for growing fine quality fruits and vegetables, both traditional as well as exotic varieties, which the country now exports to 70 markets.

Because of Chile’s location in the southern hemisphere, it produces and supplies fresh fruits and vegetables to the main northern hemisphere markets during those countries’ winter months.

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Processed and specialty foods Based on the range of high quality and fresh products available, Chile has naturally become an outstanding producer of processed fruit and vegetables and specialty foods.

These include olive oils, avocado oils, dried fruits, fruit preserves, fruit and vegetable pastes, raisins, frozen berries, fruit juice concentrates, vinegars, dairy products, spices, preserved seafood and organic herbal teas.

High quality wine is also exported heavily.

Meat and poultry Chile’s unique protective natural barriers of ocean, high mountains, desert, and glaciers have also protected its meat (pork, lamb and beef) and poultry industries from the parasites and diseases common to most other countries.

For example, Chile has never experienced any known cases of avian flu or Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE), commonly known as mad cow disease.

In addition, Chile is free from all animal diseases registered on List A of the World Organization for Animal Health (OIE).

Chile maintains the very highest standards of sanitation and the most advanced and humane techniques for raising livestock and poultry. It also maintains best practices to guarantee livestock and poultry health and food safety, as well as workers’ safety and environmental sustainability.

Chile produces only all natural free-range beef.

Grass fed beef has about the same fat content as skinless chicken.

This beef has been shown to be higher in heart friendly Omega-3 Fatty Acids, Beta-Carotene and Conjugated Linoleic Acid (CLA)

Although there are as yet no Chilean fine dining restaurants in the UAE, the cuisine is similar to Peruvian. “For the Gulfood spin-off exhibitions in November, we’re organising a meal for importers at Toro Toro, which we’ll ensure will showcase Chilean produce,” explains Carlos Salas, Trade Commissioner of Chile in the UAE. As well as the large quantities of dried fruit brought into the region, he expects sea bass, mussels, salmon and lamb to increase sales strongly the more that people experience the quality of the produce “After all, we have world class ingredients with natural, organic, and ethnic products and flavours,” he stresses.

Chilean cuisine reflects the cultural evolution of a country in a constant search for its essence and ancestral identity. It is characterised by the use of milder herbs and spices than elsewhere in Latin America and features a wide range of seafood, meat, fruit, and vegetables.

Traditional Chilean recipes handed down for generations by the indigenous Mapuche population of southern Chile are now being found round the world. One case in point is merkén seasoning, a unique, highly versatile blend of ground, smoked hot peppers, coriander seeds and salt that gives a rich Chilean flavour to practically any type of food. Merkén, made for generations the old-fashioned way by native families, is smoked with native woods that impart an all-natural flavour.

But merkén and extra-virgin olive oil are not alone in the Chilean gourmet lineup. New products are making their debut abroad, such as Ulmo tree syrup; traditional farmer-style cow’s milk cheese; heart-healthy avocado oil; herb and citrus-infused vinegar; Chilote garlic paste (from the southern island of Chiloé); natural mineral waters; chestnut flour; specialty salt; exotic jams such as murtilla (Chilean guava) or tropical Chilean carica grown in the Limarí Valley. Others are prepared game meats such as deer ham, ostrich sausage, and canned snails.

In fact, the list of new, high-quality Chilean food products taking on the world offers chefs a new palette to play with.

Merkén seasoning

Rethinking bread technology Bakery engineers and equipment vendors working together have achieved enviable levels of breadmaking technology. But is it time to take a more fundamental look at the technology itself? So, have we hit the bread wall?

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Market focus

W

ith standard bread forms easily conquered by modern equipment and more artisinal products like bagels and specialty loaves now delivering good margins, parts of the industry are now asking the question: To increase margins still more, will we have to rethink breadmaking technology?

Increasingly, the answer appears to be ‘Yes’.

The irony of breadmaking suggests why. despite bread having been a staple of our diet for a couple of thousand years, it’s only recently that food scientists have begun to really understand the chemistry and the physics involved, specifically the interaction in the baking process of different kinds of heat (radiation, convection and conduction) and that interaction’s influence on the flavour of the bread. Using gas chromatographs and mass spectrometers, the work of scientists is now enabling bakers to bake products with better texture and flavour, at the same time reducing the formation of compounds like acrylamides.

But is the speed of technology development fast enough? Should the equipment industry be spending more on R&D? Part of the issue seems to be that most research is going towards imnproving products with long retail shelf life or frozen doughs, rather than for fresh bread varieties. To change that focus, some industry watchers believe, you need to have the drive for development coming more from customer demand. In other words, products force change. And that means that bakers need to be able to rely on flexibility in order to stimulate more sophisticated customers, whose increased awareness of ‘better’ products will then drive the technology development still further - a baking virtuous circle, in other words.

And that may be quite a stretch for a baking equipment industry that focuses largely on the food service clients of large bakeries. What many point to is a fundamental shift in the relationship between bakers and their customers that needs to be reversed in order to release innovation into arttisinal and higher margins products. The shift is the move from bakers displaying their wares to customers telling bakers what they require.

Another trend helping to drive change in breadmaking technology is increased interest in hybrid versions of specialty breads and rolls - for example, the demand for a crusty bread with a longer shelf life. In this area, some bakers are reviving the art of retarding - in other words, holding pieces of dough at lower temperatures in order to slow the growth of the yeast - to create more flavourful, crusty rolls.

However, in the past retarding required additional handling and extra space, so advances in

JUST FIVE QUESTIONS We ask Brian Ballinger, the GM of Heidi Chef Solutions, to offer us a snapshot view of some of the topics of interest to bakers.

Are we seeing chefs looking at new sourcing options to deliver different products?

In general, most executive chefs are looking for something different to offer and there are many local and international suppliers supporting the market. However, with regards to the bread offer, this can only be driven if they have the right skills at their disposal as speciality breads come in many forms from the simple to the real artisan products and can be fairly competitive in terms of price or very expensive to produce.

Is the industry shifting to speciality breads as a potential profit centre?

I don’t see hotels using bread as a profit-driven item.

What do you estimate to be the market size of artisanal products?

This is quite hard as the even the small Arabic bread baker can be seen as an artisan baker - they are using limited products to make their bread

handling equipment would bring benefits here.

The revival too of continuous mixing systems for breadmaking rather than just for biscuits should also help to raise quality in the general market by stablising both inputs and outputs. The technology has progressed from soft doughs to pizza doughs to the new fields of bread and other high-gluten doughs. If the key benefits already seen - product flow and packaging efficiency - can be extended to the bread sector, then greater benefits to the industry can be expected.

Another key area where technology promises advances is in traceability - what happens to a piece of dough after the batch has been divided.

If control can be gained, then individual lots and dough batches can be tracked and, importantly, individual dough pieces can be grouped and regrouped, thus changing the traditional first-in, first-out sequencing. Progressive artisinal bakers are also increasing adopting sheeting methods, which maintain constant flow and position by not rearranging the order in which products move through the process. The process can reduce final proofing time by up to 50% - unlike conventional dividers, it not not degas the product as much as more traditional methods.

In fact, because sheeting mimics the pinning of hand methods it reduced stress method. Used

where most other bakeries are using premixes which cannot really be classed as artisan. There is a shift in the market towards more artisan producers like Baker & Spice but as of now the market for real artisan bread is very small.

Do you see trends in other markets that could be implemented here?

I think the trend in Europe and the US is for larger bakeries to produce frozen part baked product for satellite bakeries to bake off in-store and I think this is starting to be a favourable option for the market here. I also think that there is still gap in the market for a bakery chain concept such as Gregg’s from the UK that produces fresh good value bakery products in-store supported by regional bakery units at value for money prices.

What tips do you have on how chefs can win the cost/quality debate with management?

If you can buy something that can be used to produce more than one product, is reliable and is simple to use for the bakery team, then ultimately you should save money in the the longterm. This would be my top tip.

successfully for breads like focaccia, ciabatta and other high-absorption dough products, bakers are now finding that sheeting lines can run stiffer doughs. The result? A game changer that means better output of high-margin artisnal products.

Whilst the basics of breadmaking technology haven’t changed much over the last half century, automation of the process has increased more dramatically. Further advances in streamlining the breadmaking process will certainly be developed.

A word of caution, though. Whilst technologies can both be rethought and pushed forward, many large scale customers are driven to be cautious by the nature of their business and, in many cases, the the physical layout of their bakeries. New equipment may promise better throughput and higher margins but if these come at the cost of developing a new plant, then financial benefits are less clear, at least when considered on a shortto medium-term basis.

People too are cautious. The industry is well known for a “if it works, don’t fix it” attitude.

Although the promise of new equipment and technologies is there, the baking industry’s traditionally low margins and CAPEX investment in place may prove drag anchors on possibilities.

After all, over half a century of change, the base product is still dough - no radical changes there.

WHILST THE BASICS OF BREADMAKING TECHNOLOGY HAVEN’T CHANGED MUCH OVER THE LAST HALF CENTURY, AUTOMATION OF THE PROCESS HAS INCREASED MORE DRAMATICALLY. 21

Market focus

GOING WILD! Felchlin’s positioning at the top of the chcolate quality chain is helped by the unique products it also brings to market. Typical of this is the Cru Sauvage Bolivia 68%, the world’s first wild cocoa couverture.

Wild cocoa beans are harvested from swamps in the Amazon region of Bolivia, then fermented in wooden crates before drying in the sun, before being shipped across the Andes to Chile and sea route back to Switzerland.

There, 60 hours conching delivers a couverture that combines cocoa, lemon, grapefruit, prune and vanilla taste.

The taste of quality The UAE’s demand for high-end chocolate shows no signs of abating. One segment, in particular is growing fast in the fine dining sector - high-end chocolate or what we should more properly call Grand Cru chocolate.

T

he chocolate industry has long been a game between two unequal sides. On the one, local farmers forced into delivering a commodity product at low prices; on the other, a series of middlemen from buyers to importers to processors to manufacturers intent on driving the price up to the point at which the final consumer paid for it.

But it’s not all like that, claims Ronnie Khajotia, CEO of Master Baker. The company has now been importing high quality chocolate for the last decade and a half from Flechlin, a 100-year old Swiss firm. The difference, he says, is that, unlike many in the business, Felchlin takes a longer view and sees a relationship with farmers as needing to be mutually beneficial, both to guarantee quality and to ensure sustainability.

“The real difference,” he says, “is that the comopany purchases direct from the farmer, thus cutting out all the middlemen and their slices of the profit. As a result, Felchlin is able to select

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the best superior cocoas from top locations and plants as well as to determine the best lots of selected cocoa from each harvest. Chosen cocoa beans are then shipped to Switzerland for their traditional processing into the Grand Cru chocolate.”

The company is one of the smallest chocolate producers in the world but this niche play has led it to develop a very enviable line of products. The focus on a nurtured network of cocoa producers means that the quality of small quantities of premium quality raw materials can be assured - at these capacity levels, more standard commercial dealers cannot operate profitably or meet the same quality standards.

The benefits to its partners are clear. For example, over the last five years, Max Havelar Fairtrade has paid an average of 7% above the stock market price, whilst Felchlin has paid an average of 50% above the stock market price in the same time period through direct purchasing.

“What is ensured is the best farming practices.

Because Felchlin has close relationships with farmers, it help educate and spread best practice.

In return, it can ensure that no chemicals are used by its partners.”

So how did Master Baker become involved with Felchlin? “We needed a good chocolate brand to supplement our other business but it’s generally a commodity market. Our view was that we’d move up the value chain, specialise and enjoy better margins. What we supply is in the 10% of the market price, but chefs know and appreciate quality so it’s become good business for us.”

Such good business, in fact, that it is now third largest business line for Master Baker. A business that is growing 15% a year as well. “However, we do face resistance from potential customers, mostly in terms of price. One of our key jobs here is education. Despite the popularity of chocolate, there’s a general lack of knowledge about it so one of the things Felchlin has done is create a chocolate training school to help develop chefs’ knowledge of what’s achievable.”

FMaster Baker currently imports 300 tons a year, with just over a half of that destined for the UAE market.

“Say hello to my little friend�

A chef without an assortment of knives is unthinkable. But how do they feel about their single most important tool in the kitchen? What is intriguing is that some are ďŹ ercely loyal, others like to experiment and some (not covered here) have to use corporate approved knives to ensure consistency across multiple kitchens. We pull together more than a dozen chefs and talk about the cutting edge.

24

Equipment

D

o you stick with a particular knife manufacturer?

Robbie Stokes, Executive Chef, Al Badia Golf Club: Yes - Zwilling JA Henckels from Germany.

Paul de Visser, Executive Chef, Rith’s Chris Steak House: Yes, I do - I only use Zwilling JA Henckels.

Michel Miraton, Culinary Director, Faisal Holding Hotels: Yes, I do.

Andy Campbell, Chef for Hire: No, but I have gone a stage further whilst visiting family in Sheffield.

Little mesters - a local term for self-employed craftsmen - and I have designed an oyster knife using both traditional materials and methods.

Hassan Massood, Executive Chef, Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City: Yes, definitely - the Victorinox Fibrox, also known as Chef’s Knife. It is durable, made out of strong materials, longlasting after being sharpened, the best cutting tool used in food preparation and best used for tasks like mincing, slicing, and chopping vegetables, slicing meat and disjointing large cuts.

Jeffrey Fernandes, Executive Chef, Masala Craft: Yes, personally a Victorinox but for general use a Tramotina, Sheffield.

Hugh Gardiner, Corporate Chef, OKKU: Misono.

Grant Murray, Executive Sous Chef, Atlantis The Palm: I think most chefs prefer to use a certain knife manufacturer. I have both Global and Wusthof knives in my knife case.

Thomas Pendarovski, Executive Chef, Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach: For almost the last 12 plus

years, I have only being using Global knives.

Scott Price, Executive Chef, Table 9 by Nick and Scott: When I used to live in London I got to know the owners of a shop called the Japanese Knife Company and, when I could afford it, I would get my knives from there. So do I pick a particular brand? I guess anything handmade and Japanese!

But to be honest, I bought five different knives from them around five years ago - they are still razor sharp!

Khalid Abd El Ghaffar, Executive Chef, Kempinski Nile Hotel: We like to try the newest models so we change brands often based on what is new to the local market.

Steven Pieters, Director of F&B/Executive Chef, Kempinski Hotel Ajman: Victorinox.

Jonathan Spiteri, Executive Chef, Kempinski Residence & Suites, Doha: Yes, I believe that it is important to bond with a particular manufacturer.

I am very familiar with the characteristics and the features of all my knives and I can safely say that I would not change them for any reason.

Uwe Micheel, President of the Emirates Culinary Guild and Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu, Dubai Deira Creek: No, I keep changing them in different countries with different brands.

If so, why did you choose them? Was it personal recommendation? Reputation? Or comparison shopping perhaps?

Stokes: They were recommended and also on show in Switzerland at the Food Fare in Zurich.

They’re fairly expensive but of excellent quality. de Visser: I chose these knives because of their endurance and weight in my hands. As a chef, it’s very important that you use knives you are very comfortable with as you use them all day. It wasn’t a recommendation but more a trial with different knife manufacturers to find out what I like the best. Their reputation and comparison with other knives is outstanding as they are one of the oldest brands in the market, established in 1731. They make strong quality knives.

Miraton: It’s a good shape and all in one piece.

Campbell: Working with other chefs you may see

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Equipment and get the privilege to use their favoured cutlass, some of Samurai origins! There are several brands of European origin that are tried and tested over time. Some of the new Japanese style may look good to the eye but can be twice the price and may not stand the commercial battering they will certainly get in the kitchen.

Massood: Really for the reasons above. I think the Victorinox knife is desired by most chefs and is very popular for beginners in the kitchen. It is very easy for chefs to get used to the brand and used to handling the knife properly. The chef’s knife was originally designed primarily to slice and disjoint large cuts of beef, however today it is the primary general utility knife for most Western cooks. A modern chef’s knife is one designed to perform well at many differing kitchen tasks, rather than excelling at any one in particular. A point to consider as a personal recommendation would be safety as well.

Fernandes: Quality, reliability, easy to maintain and use, cost effective and cuts with perfection.

Gardiner: They are simply awesome to use, easy to hone and clean and resistant.

Murray: I am very particular about my knives. I choose my knives based on their reputation within the industry, but

Knives. Other very good value for money knives are Tramontina.

What are your ‘go to’ knives? Do you stick to a couple of one for each key job?

Stokes: Paring, palette and a boning knife would be enough to do most jobs. de Visser: My ‘go to’ knife is the 8-inch chef’s knife but there are several knives that I use on a regular basis.

Miraton: Yes, I do but I would love more options.

Campbell: I use only about five knives on a daily basis, plus other speciality knives if required, such as a large cook’s knife, a serrated pastry knife, a boning knife, a pairing knife and a Spanish jamon knife, good for slicing smoked salmon as well.

Massood: Mankind’s oldest tool is a knife so, every time when looking to purchase a new knife, the first question one should ask is: “What kind of knife do I need?” If it is an everyday knife carried in a pocket, then size and comfort are important.

If it is a knife that will be used in the field, then a sheath knife will be appropriate. Another major determining factor is how

each and every day and usually I stick with one of them for each job. I use a utility knife, a fluted santoku knife and a serrated sandwich knife.

Micheel: Different jobs mean different knives.

What makes a good knife?

Stokes: A knife which the holder is extremely confident with. And also very sharp. de Visser: The quality of the materials used to produce the knife are key. A good knife should last a lifetime.

Miraton: It needs to be sharp. And must come from a good manufacturer because a good knife is like a work of art.

Campbell: Good balance in the hand, plus a handle that fits your hand well and does not feel too heavy. The handle should be well secured to the blade. Well tempered steel and easy to clean.

Massood: A knife that feels comfortable and graceful in your hand and that will make slicing, dicing, chopping, mincing more

RP. A H S SE STAY U S A E C V E I UR KN , IT’S NOT B E HAS O Y T THA VES NIF L E K E R S E U H M S T E E “MAK HEFS CUT TH T’S BECAUSE C ,I h WHEN FE IS SHARP ah Beac ir e I m N u J ai precise, .”

THE K L tel Dub L fi o U S , D f e h pleasurable and E C e cutiv e x effortless. It needs to be easy E BECOM i, k s ov Pendar s a m o h -T

mostly on how they feel in my hand. The quality of steel and the balance to weight ratio are very important.

Pendarovski: For me, I love the way they handle when I use them. I think that with any chef, you have to feel comfortable with your knives.

Price: I was recommended to visit the shop by an Aussie mate who loves his knives. Handmade Japanese knives are very expensive but they are in a league of their own.

Ghaffar: Our choice always depends on quality, durability, sharpness, hygiene and strong brand presence within the region.

Pieters: I do prefer Victronix knives because they are developed with the latest technology with a lot of attention paid to their cutting edge. Their ergonomic design ensures that your knives are used with ease. I have a personal attachment to Victorinox, it was the first knife that my mother gifted me 23 years ago and I still treasure it.

Spiteri: I chose these particular knives because they are comfortable in my hands. Very steady and balanced, the two elements that have the highest priority for me. Also they have to be light but manufactured with high-quality material.

Micheel: It all depends on much you want to spend. I like to work with Calplalon and Dick

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the knife will be used. The rule of thumb is that a fixed blade is stronger and easier to use if you will carry it or have it accessible. After all, choose a knife that fits your hand, your personality and your pocket book, in that order. More users are carrying combination tools that not only have a knife blade, but many other tools as well for butchery, dessert, deboning meat or fish, slicing, chopping and so on.

Gardiner: My Misono UX10 paring knife.

Murray: They would have to be my 26cm cook’s knife and my paring knife.

Pendarovski: My personal favourite are chef’s knife, paring knife and serrated knife. With these knives, I can do any task.

Price: I have never really owned more than five knives at a time, just the basics like a solid boning knife, a nice long sharp carver, a heavy veg knife, a filleting knife and usually an old boning knife for opening scallops. And, most importantly of all, a speed peeler!

Ghaffar: I use a knife coding system, where each food item has different knife assigned to it coded with a different colour for its handle.

Pieters: My ‘go to’ knife would be a turning knife as its curved blade ensures precise cuts.

Spiteri: I have three ‘go to’ knives, which I use

to handle, suitable for multi-purpose use and have long life sharpness. However, that same knife might feel klutzy to someone else, so it is very important to identify your preferences as well - there isn’t just a knife that is right for every single chef.

Fernandes: The three key features for a good knife are balance between the blade and handle, good anti-skid grip so as to have a firm hold and quality steel that does not rust easily.

Gardiner: One that can peel and julienne paper thin and cut through fish bones in a single move with no problems.

Murray: The quality of steel that the knife is made out of is key. Personally, I prefer forged knives made from tempered carbon steel with a full tang handle. A knife should have a perfect balanced weight from handle to tip for effortless cutting.

Pendarovski: I always look at the blade, the handle but, most importantly, how it feels in my hand. It’s a combination.

Ghaffar: I find that what makes a good knife is the kind of metal used it’s made of. I prefer knives with the most durability.

Pieters: A good knife is one that is comfortable to work with and has the ability to hold its edge.

Spiteri: The type of steel used as well as the high quality materials for the finishing.

Micheel: It should keep its sharpness for a while and, of course, have a good handle.

What are the common mistakes young chefs make choosing knives?

Stokes: Some choose the cheapest and try to buy all the knifes at once. I think it is better to buy good quality knives and limit yourself to just one a month or whatever you can afford. Even after one year, you could have a decent knife box with good quality knives that will last for at least ten years or more. de Visser: Lots of them just go for a brand name or what their chef or colleagues are using. Knives are very personal as there are so many brands and gradations within the brands. You need to get the knives that work for you. Try them before buying as some people like the knives to be heavy and some like them light. Get something that you personally are comfortable with!

Miraton: Buying cheap knives. They should get a recommendation from their Executive Chef and ensure they get the right knife for the job.

Campbell: Buying a big expensive box set without trying the knives! Instead, buy a few of a cheaper brand to start - the Spanish and French produce very good value for money knives - then build your collection up as you test them at work.

Massood: Young chefs don’t make mistakes, however, they might not have enough experience in choosing the perfect knives yet. Chefs should look at their daily job description and take all tasks to consideration, as it might help them to choose the right shape, size, length or easiness to handle. Knives have both advantages and disadvantages for different utilisations, which means that the performance depends on how well the chef sharpens the knife and is taking care of it.

Fernandes: Selecting a heavy knife and a blade that looks good.

Gardiner: Going with brands they see other chefs use. Each chef must find the knife that matches their grip.

Murray: Knowing that it is worth spending that extra bit of money on a really good knife or two, rather than buying a fancy set they saw on TV. Pendarovski: Without a doubt, they look at what other chefs are using and just follow them. I have always believed that when you choose any knife, make sure you feel comfortable with it.

Price: Don’t go for gimmicks and stupid designs because they will not last. Ask your head chef’s advice. If in doubt, buy a solid German knife brand and if you can save up treat yourself to a Japanese knife. Having a good, sharp knife can really improve the quality of your work and increase your efficiency.

Ghaffar: The common mistake that young chefs make while choosing a knife is they look for cool shapes and design and not for functional features.

Pieters: Young chefs nowadays shops around a lot when choosing a knife set. They forget the fact that a good knife can last for years if it is well maintained and they too often opt for a cheaper brand with not so sharp blades, making their everyday job a lot harder.

Spiteri: Usually young chefs buy very expensive and delicate knife sets and since they still don’t have enough experience on how to sharpen them

THE CHEFS AND F&B PROFESSIONALS

ROBBIE STOKES Executive Chef Al Badia Golf Club by Intercontinental Dubai Festival City

PAUL DE VISSER Executive Chef Ruth’s Chris Steak House, The H Dubai

MICHEL MIRATON Culinary Director Faisal Holding Hotels

ANDY CAMPBELL Dubai-based Chef for Hire

HASSAN MASSOOD Executive Chef Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City

JEFFREY FERNANDES Executive Chef Masala Craft

HUGH GARDINER Corporate Chef OKKU

GRANT MURRAY Executive Sous Chef Atlantis The Palm

THOMAS PENDAROVSKI Executive Chef Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach

SCOTT PRICE Executive Chef, Table 9 by Nick and Scott, Hilton Dubai Creek

KHALID ABD EL GHAFFAR Executive Chef Kempinski Nile Hotel

STEVEN PIETERS Director of F&B/ Executive Chef Kempinski Hotel Ajman

JONATHAN SPITERI Executive Chef Kempinski Residences & Suites, Doha

UWE MICHEEL President of the Emirates Culinary Guild and Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu, Dubai Deira Creek

27

Equipment correctly, the knives get destroyed faster.

Micheel: Mostly they choose on price and only a few see a better knife as an investment.

What is your maintenance routine for them?

Stokes: The daily edge should be maintained with steel, washed after every use, then properly dried before storing, sharpened on sharpening stone and not shared with other chefs! de Visser: Clean them immediately after using, using a soft sponge and never using a steel brush or steel wool. Dry your knives properly. Sharpen them on time or give them to a certified company to do so for you.

Miraton: They need to be constantly cleaned with the right chemical products, then dried and stored properly in a case.

Campbell: Wash well in hot soapy water. Never put in a dishwasher. Sharpen with a diamond steel and a whetstone when required. Critically, follow manufactures instructions as the sharpening angle may differ.

Massood: Take good care of them. Don’t let the engineers sharpen the knives, do it yourself! Chefs should choose good cutting boards, like wooden or plastic ones, so avoid metal and marble cutting boards as they ruin even the best knife blades.

Handwash the knives, don’t put them in the dishwasher as the heat can damage the handles and it isn’t good to have them bang against other silverware either. Clean before and after using the knife and never store your knives loosely in the drawer, as it is dangerous and damages the blades. Instead, store them in a wooden block or on a metal strip. Then, once you’ve found a good maintenance routine, it is important to make time to sharpen the knife on a regular basis, make it part of your daily routine and maintain the proper level of sharpening time. I think using a sharpener isn’t the best method to sharpen your knives - a better way would be using a stone such as an Arkansas stone or a Japanese water stone as these will yield the best results.

Fernandes: You need to clean and wash the knives regularly. Always keep them dry and then wipe them immediately after contact with any citrus products. Also sharpen daily at the end of a shift.

Gardiner: Clean, polish and hone daily.

Murray: I always sharpen my own knives on my diamond edged steel and never let anyone else do

it for me. I ensure I wash my knives every time I use them and place them back in their sleeve every time. If you look after your knives properly, they will last you a long time.

Pendarovski: Every time I use my knives, there is a steel right beside me.

Using the steel gives your edge back on the knife itself, making sure that each knife stays sharp. Dull knives cause cuts!

I never wash any knife in the dishwasher.

Instead, simple soap and a sponge does the trick. The last thing: I always ensire that I dry them right away.

Price: Always sharpen them before you use them.

I use a fine oil stone when I have the time to keep the edge on them.

Ghaffar: We ensure we have a regular maintenance routine for the knives inside our kitchens and they are sent to a special knife sharpening agency in Cairo.

Pieters: I believe that a well maintained knife can last for years. I sharpen the blade of all knives once every two months and oil their handles with olive oil to protect the wood.

Spiteri: I always handwash the knife and before storing it I constantly sharpen it so that it will be ready and prepared for the next job.

Micheel: Handle your knives with care, keep them separately and don’t throw them all together in a drawer.

If you were designing a knife set, what would be your priority features?

Stokes: The material being used and having them tested with real chefs - that is, ones that actually work daily in kitchens, not just in an office. I’d also have a scheme for young chefs to purchase a full set over a period of time at a special rate. de Visser: The sharpness, weight, design and kind of material (stainless steel) used for the knife.

Miraton: Easy to carry - easy to clean - easy to store! Simple.

Campbell: Hard wearing with a good grip, a lifetime guarantee, affordable, good looking and with a snappy design.

Massood: While designing a set of knives, I would look into the following main features: products with a guarantee, identification of the need

“WHEN I USED TO LIVE IN LONDON I GOT TO KNOW THE OWNERS OF A SHOP CALLED THE JAPANESE KNIFE COMPANY AND, WHEN I COULD AFFORD IT, I WOULD GET MY KNIVES FROM THERE. SO A PARTICULAR BRAND? I SUPPOSE ANYTHING HANDMADE AND JAPANESE! BUT TO BE HONEST, I BOUGHT FIVE DIFFERENT KNIVES FROM THEM AROUND FIVE YEARS AGO AND THEY ARE STILL RAZOR SHARP” - Scott Price, Executive Chef, Table 9 by Nick and Scott, Hilton Dubai Creek

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Equipment or purpose of the knives, appearance, overall dimensions, range of suitable colours, range of suitable surface finishes, human factors covering product use, range of materials required, range of processes required, techniques for manufacturing in quantity and safety requirements.

Fernandes: The quality of steel used, balance and grip of the handle. And the blade should run through the entire knife - full tang - for better balance and durability.

Gardiner: Lightweight, maintains its sharpness and cuts through bones with ease.

Murray: Good quality steel, precision edge technology for the blade, comfortable handle made from synthetic material and a perfect balance from handle to tip.

Pendarovski: For me, I think that the handle would be very important. I really believe that a chef should feel comfortable with his or her knife.

Price: Same as the five knives I mentioned before.

Ghaffar: My priority would be a strong handle that I can count on and a sharp blade that makes my job easier.

Pieters: My priority features would be having wild boar tusks as handles and using several layers of metal to form the blade.

Spiteri: My priorities would be: lightness, balance and longlasting sharpness.

Micheel: I would focus on practicality more than the look, the quality of steel. In general, all the materials used would be very important.

Do you use different makes of knives at work and at home?

Stokes: Yes, at home we have a Global knife set and stand, a wedding gift. It came with a great sharpening tool also, very easy to use and the knifes are in great form still, after seven years of use.

We have both become used to them, but we did have to buy some extra first aid plasters at the start! Not for me, of course, but for my wife... de Visser: I have the full range of Zwilling at home and only take them to work if I really need them for things like food tastings, promotions or media cooking.

The problem is that most chefs are given knifes by the company so they don’t really take care of them. I had my share of my personal chef knives turning into serrated knives so I keep them at home most of the time!

Miraton: Yes, I do for different work with meat, fish or vegetables. Regulations from Dubai Municipality also mean we need to co-ordinate knife colour and chopping board - red for meat, green for vegetables and so on.

Campbell: Yes - I do not let anyone use my work knives!

Massood: At home I feel more relaxed using simple knives, which are safer and easy to use. Even other family members would use them as well, as simple knives are not that dangerous and sharp as a chef’s knife that is used at work. At

30

DESERT ISLAND - ONE KNIFE. WHAT DO YOU TAKE? Stokes: A boning knife. de Visser: An 8-inch chef’s knife.

Miraton: A butcher’s knife - for survival.

Campbell: My oyster knife. As long as they have oysters!

Massood: Victorinox Fibrox - it’s the highest quality stainless steel straight-edged blade with a pointed tip. Used in the pastry section most of the time, as a lot of the work there is garnishing or presenting platters, which combine carving, fine slicing or cutting cake with multiple shapes.

Fernandes: A Swiss Army hunting knife.

Gardiner: Misono UX10 or Sakai all-purpose chef knife.

Murray: Something to cut. A 12cm paring knife, it’s super versatile.

Pendarovski: That’s easy. My chef’s knife!

Price: My 5/12 inch Takayuki Damascus. It’s like an extension of my hand - a brilliant little rosewood handled knife.

Ghaffar: A Global.

Pieters: Butcher’s cleaver.

Spiteri: Although I would never want to be in that situation, I would pick my favourite fluted santoku knife.

home we are preparing food for family and friends, which means there is no rush or fine cutting needed, as long as the food is tasty and well prepared. At work it is a different scenario, as we need to maintain proper methods of cutting meat, vegetable, fruits, etc and following the guidelines as per the SOP standards of the required menus, which are more detailed in size, shape, thickness, and so on.

Fernandes: Yes, the workload is different, so the requirements are different.

Gardiner: Yes, I have a decent set of German knives at home. They are little more family friendly compared to my work knives.

Murray: I tend to have the same knives at home as I do at work. Most of my knives are at home because I cook a lot for my wife.

Pendarovski: Never, I have a Global set at work and at home. My wife has become a fan of them as well.

Price: My house is a bit of a knife graveyard of all the knives I owned when younger and can’t bear to throw away. So there is always a knife for every occasion at home.

Ghaffar: I have different knives at home than at work because the master chef at my house is my wife, who chooses the knives she prefers.

Pieters: I stick to the same brand whether at home or work.

Spiteri: Even though the Executive Chef at home is my wife, whenever it is my turn to prepare the meals, I use the same brand.

Micheel: No, I use the same knives at home.

Your top knife tip?

Stokes: Keep the edge - remember the steel will not get you the edge, only maintain it. You need to use a sharpening stone to get the edge back if lost. Keep clean and dry for storage and never share your knives other chefs! They will damage ‘your’ edge. de Visser: Keep your knives clean, sharp and always well maintained.

Miraton: Always ensure your knives are ready to go!

Campbell: Don’t let any one sharpen your knives.

If using a whetstone, do at least ten strokes each side to get continuity in sharpening.

Massood: A folding knife is handy for fitting in your pocket, but because the blade and the handle are two separate pieces joined by a hinge, the chances for breakage are much higher than with a fixed blade design. Folding knives also tend to have shorter and thinner blades, which limits the ways they can be used, and they are can be much less durable - the average pocket knife probably wouldn’t last very long cutting saplings or chopping kindling prying or being pounded on the butt with a rock. The blade of the knife should be a full tang design, which means that the steel of the blade continues all of the way to the end of the handle, in one piece. Knives with only partial tangs are weaker when subjected to unusual stress, for example in a survival situation.

Four to six inches is usually the recommended length for a survival knife blade. Knives which are much smaller or larger than this won’t have the same versatility, but choice of length is a personal one. Both the steel that the knife is made out of, as well as the profile of it should be taken into account. The best choice of steel for a survival knife would be one which is not too hard as to be brittle or difficult to sharpen in the field, but hard enough to keep a decent edge on it. The edge profile is important to consider, as hollow-ground blades can be incredibly sharp, but extremely difficult to sharpen in the backcountry, whereas a compound grind holds a decent edge yet can be sharpened much easier on the go.

Fernandes: Remember to sharpen the knife at the end of every shift, so it is ready to use when you come in.

Gardiner: Make it an investment and buy the best knife or knives you can afford that you will keep longterm as you’ll get more out of it.

Murray: Never run with a knife in your hand. And, most importantly, make sure it is always sharp, as you are more likely to cut yourself with a blunt knife than a sharp one.

Pendarovski: Make sure that your knives stay sharp.

When chefs cut themselves, it’s not because the knife is sharp, it’s because the knife has become dull.

Price: Buy the best you can afford because as a chef it’s the tool you will use the most!

Ghaffar: Don’t go cheap while choosing a knifeand always stick with high quality.

Pieters: My personal top knife tip would be to ensure that you keep them well maintained and never lend them to another chef.

Spiteri: Never loan your knives to someone else.

You are their owner and they belong to your hands only.

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Pimp my plate

Be nice with rice What could be simpler than this? First, find a chef ready for a challenge.

Next, offer a traditional recipe and ask for a rethink to restaurant standards. Finally, watch the new dish being prepared and talk about the creative process. This month, OKKU’s Corporate Chef Hugh Gardiner tackles the Indonesian favourite Nasi goreng.

N

asi goreng - ‘fried rice’ in Indonesian and Malay - is one of those dishes we all think we know. However, the term is used to refer to a number of dishes in Indonesia: maybe just simple refried rice or stir fried rice flavoured with soy sauce, shallot, garlic, tamarind and either chicken or prawns. Or it could be the version made with salted dried fish.

Whatever the particular make-up, Nasi goreng is the national dish of Indonesia and you’ll see it being eaten everywhere from roadside carts to fine dining restaurants to meals at home. A poll

held last year by CNN International found it in the number two position of the ‘World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods’.

Like many very popular dishes worldwide, Nasi goreng’s origins are shrouded in mystery although it seems clear that it derived from Chinese fried rice and first became popular in Indonesia at around the time when the Chinese wok and stir frying arrived in the country. Trade between the cultures has been in place for over ten centuries and so there is a very long history of immigration from China and spread of Chinese ingredients and

STEP BY STEP COOKING GUIDE

Step 1: Add rice and tomatoes to aromatics

Step 2: Stir to amalgamate flavours

Step 3: Sauté prawns and chicken strips

Step 4: Mix cabbage and rice

NASI GORENG - THE UNIVERSE Some of the most common Nasi goreng recipes: Nasi goreng ayam: the most common with chicken, spices and sweet soy sauce Nasi goreng istimewa: special Nasi goreng, or Nasi goreng ayam with a topping of fried egg Nasi goreng ati ampela: Nasi goreng with chicken gizzard and liver Nasi goreng sapi: Nasi goreng with beef Nasi goreng kambing: Nasi goreng with goat meat Nasi goreng pete: nasi goreng with green stinky beans Nasi goreng sea food: Nasi goreng with seafood such as cuttlefish, prawns, shellfish and fish Nasi goreng ikan asin: Nasi goreng with salted fish usually without sweet soy sauce Nasi goreng teri Medan: Nasi goreng with salted anchovy from Medan, North Sumatra Nasi goreng Aceh: Aceh style spicy shrimp Nasi goreng Nasi goreng Jawa Timur: East Javanese style of Nasi goreng, similar to Nasi goreng ayam, but sweet soy sauce is replaced with tomato and chillie sauce Nasi goreng Magelangan: Central Javanese Magelang style of chicken Nasi goreng mixed with noodles Nasi goreng gila: lightly seasoned fried rice topped with rich-tasting stir-fried vegetables with chicken, beef or seafood Nasi goreng amplop or Nasi goreng pattaya: Nasi goreng wrapped in a thin omelette Nasi goreng santri: vegetarian Nasi goreng Nasi goreng sosis: Nasi goreng with sausages Nasi goreng Hawaii: Nasi goreng and pineapple

Instant Nasi goreng!

32

“TO ME, NASI GORENG WASN’T MUCH OF A CHALLENGE. I’VE BEEN EATING FRIED RICE SINCE I WAS A BABY AND THE VARIETIES OF THE DISH ARE ALMOST ENDLESS. THIS IS THE TYPE OF FOOD I COOK AT HOME!”

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Pimp my plate cooking techniques.

However, the Indonesian twist to the recipe came with the addition of sweet soy sauce and a more pronounced spicier flavour. Basic ingredients will be those left over from the previous meal with extra vegetables and egg. Freshly cooked rice used in Nasi goreng will be too moist and soft, hence the use of leftover cooked rice.

For Chef Hugh, the challenge was how to elevate such a simple dish with so few ingredients.

“It’s not really the sort of dish we would include on the menu at OKKU but we’re doing a lot of experimentation and dish development now as we get ready for the new outlets in London and Casablanca, maybe even Tokyo. We can’t just mimic what we have created here over the last six

years - we need to adapt.”

He and his brigade are all workaholics. “We’re all driven to achieve the best satisfaction for our customers we can. Food here isn’t just about whether it loks good but whether it tastes good.

To me, Nasi goreng wasn’t much of a challenge.

I’ve been eating fried rice since I was a baby and the varieties of the dish are almost endless. This is the type of food I cook at home!”

So what was his solution? “I made some quite subtle changes because I wanted to retain the classic dish. I also wanted to highlight some of the less used ingredients to bring out their flavour and to stop the main one overpowering the dish and confusing the palate. With a dish as classic as this, you really can’t change it or make it better it’s developed over so long. It’s a like a homestyle Japanese curry - it’s simple and great as it is. For that sort of curry it’s the combination of harsh wasabi, cool noodles and the unami taste of the soy. The problem? Customers aren’t looking for that sort of dish. Maybe we can start to educate them, but we shouldn’t dictate to them.”

So why did he omit the egg? “To be honest, because of fear. The environment is so fierce here and I’m very fussy about hygiene, so I don’t eat them here in the Gulf.”

So would his version of Nasi goreng make the cut onto the OKKU menu? “No, I don’t think so.

I’d make it at home, of course, but here in OKKU food has to look and taste great. At the end of the day, it’s really just rich fried rice!”

Step 5: Add shrimp, chicken and meat balls

Nasi goreng Serves 2 or 3

Step 6: Cook and mix flavours

Step 8: Combine everything

34

Step 7: Scramble and egg

Step 9: Final presentation!

Ingredients: 3 whole eggs, beaten 50g chicken, cut into strips 50g prawns, deveined 50g Indonesia meatballs (bakso) - optional 1/2 tomato, thinly sliced bok choy or cabbage, to taste - optional salt to taste 4 tbs vegetable oil 2-3 tbs oyster sauce 2-3 tbs dark soy sauce 5 cloves garlic 6 shallots 1 tbs black pepper 1/2 cm ginger 1/4 tsp dried shrimp paste - optional 5 red chillies - optional Method: 1 Heat oil, add the ground (garlic, shallots, black pepper, ginger, shrimp paste and chillies) plus tomato. Saute for five minutes.

2 Add the egg and cook for three minutes, then add the chicken. When half cooked, add the prawns and meatballs.

3 Add rice and vegetables. Stir roughly.

4 Add oyster and soy sauces, stir for five to seven minutes to mix well.

5 Plate and garnish with fried shallots, prawn crackers, fried egg and thinly sliced cucumber - optional

OKKU’s Nasi goreng Serves 2 or 3 Ingredients: 50g tomatoes, finely sliced aromatic paste (grind 5 garlic cloves, 5 shallot, 15g black pepper, 5g ginger, 5g shrimp paste, 5 red chillies) 2 whole eggs 50g fresh shrimp 50g chicken breast 3 or 4 meatballs - can use fish or chicken 50g cabbage, julienned 150g white rice (basmati or small grain), cooked 15ml oyster sauce 15ml dark soy sauce salt and white pepper to taste 1 egg, fried sunny side - optional 25g crispy shallots

15g prawn crackers 35g cucumber, sliced into whole moons spring onion, finely diced Method: 1 Cook some rice and let it sit outside or inside the fridge to lose the heat. Set aside.

2 Fry the prawn crackers, or buy them ready-to-eat.

3 Slice shallots thinly, rinse in ice water, pat dry and fry until golden and slightly crispy. Place on kitchen paper to remove excess oil 4 At this point, fry an egg sunny side up and use when plating - optional.

5 In a very hot, nearly smoking pan hot, add some oil and sauté the tomato and aromatics.

Continue for around two minutes to get the fragrance working. Set aside in a separate dish.

6 In the same pan, add a bit more oil

7

8

9

and add eggs. Cook through but not overdone. Set aside in separate dish.

In the same pan, add the shrimp, chicken,and meatballs then cook evenly. Add some room temperature water to get use a bit of steam in the cooking. Add oyster and soy sauces, then sauté for 30 seconds and set aside.

In the pan goes the cabbage and rice, adding some water to separate the grains. Season with salt and pepper and continue moving the rice around. Reintroduce all the ingredients you had set aside and combine flavours.

Finally add the prawn crackers by crushing them into the rice and add cucumbers.

Serve in sharing bowl, or mold into a serving bowl and flip it onto a plate. Garnish with crispy shallot, spring onion and fried egg.

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36

Face to face

Getting authentic After an opening that stunned Dubai a few years back thanks to a great combination of a global iconic name and unmistakeable design, Raffles Dubai has rather slipped out of the culinary limelight. Now things are set to change dramatically, claims Tuomas Heikkinen, new Executive Sous Chef at the hotel.

T

eaming up with old colleague Andrew Whiffen, Raffles Dubai’s Executive Chef, after working together in India for a year, newly arrived Executive Sous Chef Tuomas Heikkinen is having a busy Ramadan, as the hotel prepares to shake up the Dubai dining scene after the summer. We asked him to explain his journey to the pyramid-shaped hotel.

You’re from Finland. That seems quite a long way from Dubai…

Yes, I grew up in Helsinki. As you know food in Scandinavian is very much survival cuisine - living off the land, hunting, gathering berries, fishing…

The whole locavore trend which now makes the cuisine so popular amongst gourmets!

Exactly, but it was quite plain when I grew up although my father was a very enthusiastic cook.

Not a chef - he just cooked very fancy meals at home. The family also travelled quite a bit so I wanted to do that so, aged 19, is was in London.

I stayed there for about ten years and, you know, living on my own and having to cook, I suddenly realised that this is what I wanted to do. I loved cooking for friends and so this dream grew of having my own little restaurant one day. Finally, aged 22, I found a job in a kitchen.

What sort of food were you cooking?

Italian. I had travelled there and loved the food.

So I moved to Italy and then asked if the hotel had vacancies in India - I’d been backpacking there earlier. Then I was in India, with the Oberoi Group! I stayed for four and a half years, both in Mumbai and New Delhi.

What did you make of it?

At the time, the metros were very like Dubai, I think. Change was in the air with lots of money around, big hotels, lots of upscale new restaurants

opening. So I spent over three years in New Delhi and then was part of the team that organised the reopening of the Oberoi in Mumbai after that terrorist outrage.

You were cooking Italian food in India?

Yes, with an emphasis on very authentic food.

We made lots of different kinds of handmade pasta, for example. Anyway, after a year or so in Mumbai, I felt I needed a change and accepted a job as Chef de Cuisine with Four Season in Saint Kitts and Nevis.

And the shift to Dubai?

I’d worked with Andrew in India for a year and had, in fact, see Raffles Dubai when it first opened. We’d always kept in touch and he invited to join the team. I think it’s a very exciting time to be in Dubai. Yes, there’s lots of competition and maybe the market is getting saturated, but that just means you have to try harder and be better.

I love the fact that there are influences from all over here - the Caribbean was great but it was a bit quiet and unchallenging.

So what are you planning to change here?

One of the key advantages of being a smaller property is that you can build a strong identity and also have the freedom to execute. To date, Raffles Dubai has a very strong reputation for business and banqueting; now we’re working on relaunching the key outlets after Ramadan.

Our key focus in giving more value and bigger flavours. That can be in small things like the food presentation or the quality of the bread, but we want to deliver real quality. The chefs are going to be busier than they expect!

What can we expect from the new Fire and Ice? This will be a restaurant to watch out for! I think it was a great concept before but maybe a bit

too advanced for the market, so we’re focusing on key ingredients - newly sourced beef, seafood from Europe and so on. You can get some idea of where we’re going if you look at our Friday brunches with their focus on British roasts and carvery. We want to be known for authenticity.

And the challenges?

Staffing is always the greatest. We need to work on skill levels and eye for detail, at the same time as having better training. Those will all help to retain staff and are critical if we want to progress our menus. There’s a lot of average food in Dubai - we don’t want to be serving it. Instead, we want to introduce new things to Dubai in a professional way. That is what will make us different in a market that is so crowded.

Many chefs talk about supply issues. Have you found sourcing difficult?

Well, after working on a small island, Dubai is like a dream! We can get anything here, with flights from Europe every couple of days and suppliers vying to introduce new products. So I understand some concerns, but after India and the Caribbean, I’m not seeing them in the same way.

And local suppliers? The organic farms in Abu Dhabi and so on?

To be honest, I haven’t had a chance to really look into those yet but I’m very interested. If the local produce is good, we need to know about it.

You spoken about Fire and Ice. What are the other changes planned?

Okay, Fire and Ice will relaunch in September and then, in October, we have a whole new Asian restaurant opening, which will come with a large lounge area. At this stage, all I can say is that it will be authentic and it will show how serious we are about great food. Watch this space!

“THERE’S LOTS OF COMPETITION AND MAYBE THE MARKET IS GETTING SATURATED, BUT THAT JUST MEANS YOU HAVE TO TRY HARDER AND BE BETTER. I LOVE THE FACT THAT THERE ARE INFLUENCES FROM ALL OVER HERE - THE CARIBBEAN WAS GREAT BUT IT WAS A BIT QUIET AND UNCHALLENGING.” 37

Face to face

Going local Chef Andy Campbell has built himself a reputation as a chef willing to take chances and pursue the unusual. His latest incarnation is as Dubai’s ‘Chef for hire’ tackling private commissions and more. He’s been passionate about local produce his whole career, from his time as head chef with Aldo Zilli, stints on Saturday Morning Kitchen, time at Clarke’s, The Grill Room at the Café Royal and the late lamented 23 Romilly Street - an Soho eatery that hid, unmarked, above a private members’ club!

Now he wants local produce here.

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ooking back, when you first moved here, were you surprised at sourcing problems?

What major issues did you find?

Yes, as the suppliers would not take the chance of stocking goods, we had to order a week in advance. So it was always difficult to gauge your stock levels, with such a transient audience.

Based on your experience in the UK, what did you consider the major gaps in the local produce market for you?

Seasonal produce tends to head towards the slightly cooler climates of the sub-continent and the Levant during the summer. This is similar to that time before Easter in the UK, when most produce comes from Europe. I think the grading of local produce seems to be the biggest issue.

Talking to other chefs, do you feel they have an enthusiasm for local produce? Have they pointed you to particular suppliers?

Some do and some are set in their ways or just don’t have the time to deal with this. So it tends to be an initiative from General Managers or F&B Managers looking at supply from a different perspective. Any feedback about new suppliers

recommended by industry professionals would be very welcome.

‘Organic’ is now popular amongst shoppers with markets, Ripe and so on. Why is that not being reflected in restaurant menus?

Organic through its very nature of growing poses supply chain problems. In addition, demand is not always met and quality can be variable. A good way to introduce new produce is through the use of specials boards in restaurants so that when it runs out it does not adversely affect customers’ expectations of the meal.

You’re a bit of a champion for sourcing from local supermarkets rather than food service importers.

What are the advantages?

I use both but as some of my business is for smaller groups, I have had to look at alternative to case buying. I am also good friends with some independent speciality suppliers. Yet companies that cover wholesale and retail may benefit from a larger audience from the smaller operator of the growing Free Zone business available. The market has changed and hotel chefs may need to adapt to suit their customer demands. As for the local

supermarkets, the quality is excellent and prices are very good. I don’t know why more chefs don’t explore them!

As you look harder at the local market, are you surprised at the amount of produce available?

Yes, as organic farms seem to be producing better quality than I expected. It is down to availability. I would like to follow this further though.

What would encourage local farmers to do more?

I would encourage farmers in the region to work together with their neighbours in setting up a supply chain to save transport costs and make us aware of produce that could be available.

How effective do you think it will be to reward farmers by suggesting speciality produce that is in demand from chefs across the region?

Some produce that could be encouraged would be heritage varieties of produce that is already grown if conditions are right. I’m thinking of things like golden beetroot and more varieties of tomatoes. Even chef favourites like micro herbs.

Can you harness the buying power of other chefs to make a difference?

I am working on harnessing the buying power of chefs with several projects that are underway more information to follow.

You talk quite often about “just add one local product to every dish”. Is that something other chefs are lining up behind?

I do believe that the use of one local product in each dish is viable if we count the whole Arabian peninsular as a growing region, also using road transport as the method of supply.

What are the major challenges in trying to make a difference?

Awareness, supply, consistency of quality and a better price than imported produce.

FROM NEXT ISSUE Chef Andy and The Pro Chef Middle East will be visiting local farmers and suppliers to discover just what is out there. Suggestions of suppliers welcomed: andy@chefandycampbell.com

“I DO BELIEVE THAT THE USE OF ONE LOCAL PRODUCT IN EACH DISH IS VIABLE IF WE COUNT THE ARABIAN PENINSULAR AS A GROWING REGION, ALSO USING ROAD TRANSPORT AS THE METHOD OF SUPPLY.” 38

39

Face to face

“I’M NOT HERE TO SAY THAT STARBUCKS IS WRONG OR RIGHT. IT HAS A MARKET. WE JUST BELIEVE THAT THERE’S ANOTHER MARKET THAT WILL EMBRACE MORE SPECIALISED BLENDS.”

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Face to face

The world in a cup The annual UAE Coffee and Tea Festival gives both industry and consumers a chance to sample new blends, new products and view how the industry is changing. As the Emirates go coffee crazy, the Operations Manager of the Festival, Ryan Godinho, tells us that we haven’t seen anything yet!

E

xplain your role to us.

It’s really quite simple: to promote the speciality tea and coffee markets. And the Festival is all about showing the market what is available. Our passion? Demonstrating the integrity of well-produced teas and coffees, promoting sustainability and celebrating the best production techniques.

Is the Festival aimed more at the trade or the consumer market?

It’s both really. For the trade there’s an emphasis on international roasters, on new equipment suppliers in the local market and the major tea importers, but at the end of the day it’s going to be the consumers who will dictate the quality of products in the market and drive demand for speciality products. So they’re really important to the Festival. We recently started a social media group that meets up - we’ve about 200 in Dubai and 30 in Abu Dhabi and their feedback is very important to us and what we’re doing.

Do we really need more tea and coffee outlets in the UAE It already feels like we’re drowning!

I think people will always find a niche, given the breadth of possible products in these markets.

I’m intrigued by your belief that people want more specialised products when the market evidence is that homogeneity is taking over. Take Starbucks, for example - it began as a boutique coffee shop offering specialised blends but now is just a standard outlet that doesn’t seem to celebrate quality or specific blends.

I’m not here to say that Starbucks is wrong or right. It has a market. We just believe that there’s another market that will embrace more specialised blends.

Coffee beans drying in the sun in the highlands of central Vietnam of tea that are promoted in health terms. And, lastly, what we might see as kind of pop-up micro roasteries and boutique coffee shops. We can see these elsewhere, why not here?

It seems as if the industry is following the example of micro breweries?

Yes, the products have a lot in common. Aware consumers see the value in fresh, quality products.

We don’t have them here yet, but roast masters are creating a buzz in the industry.

But to get back to the market. We can’t move in Dubai without falling over another coffee shop.

How is there room for more?

I would simply say that there is not enough good coffee out there! If we just look closely at the fine dining scene - coffee isoften just seen as almost an afterthought to most meals, but with some thought and support, chefs could make it a real part of the dining experience and enjoy the increased margins.

What do you see as the key market trends at present in the UAE? Most importantly, what I call the ‘third wave’ of coffee retailing, where different outlets roast their own speciality coffees. Next, different blends

You spoke earlier about sustainability. Many of the coffee producing countries are not close to the UAE and carbon miles must be an issue?

Historically, Kenya and Ethiopia have been the main exporters to this region. But as roasters

start to play with different flavours, I think we’ll see a different mix of beans imported. Kenyan beans have a citrus overtone. Those from central America are more chocolatey, with more robust flavours coming in from Yemen and Vietnam.

Fair Trade. What are your thoughts?

It’s important, of course, but the reality is that the local market just doesn’t see it as beneficial. The industry itself is changing which is great - things like the Cup of Excellence initiative.

How confident are you that the industry can expand any more?

At present, there’s an average of 3.5kg of coffee consumed by each person in the UAE every year.

Is that a lot? Well, we believe there’s room for growth and also that tea consumption will rise too as people discover more speciality teas. We do believe the rise of speciality roasters and more individual blends of tea will grow more markets.

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Face to face

Getting recognition Michael Kitts, Senior Lecturer and Director of Culinary Arts at The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management, is a popular figure in the UAE F&B world. Previously Culinary Director and Executive Chef at the renowned Butler’s Wharf Chef School in London, he has also worked at private clubs such as the Garrick and Les Ambassadeurs, as well as time in good hotels.

Now, a slightly surprised Kitts, explains that he’s received a major award from the UK Craft Guild of Chefs.

S

tarting his formal training at Thanet Technical College in Kent, Chef Michael has won many prestigious awards and accolades, including the ‘Prince Philip Special Award’ in 1996 for service to the industry, presented at Buckingham Palace. He was also a member of the gold medal-winning Great Britain Culinary Olympics team in 1987 and was also the first ever recipient of the UK Craft Guild of Chefs Competition Chef Award in 1994.

He has used much of his competition experience in training others. In 1994, teams that he trained won both the junior and senior Grand Prix at Hotelympia, London, and at the 2004 Hotelympia Parade des Chefs he gained a gold medal and Best in Class with the Jumeirah culinary team. In 2012, Chef Michael led Team Jumeirah to 14 gold medal successes in Le Salon Culinaire International de Londres 2012 at Hotelympia.

He was recently awarded the People’s Choice Award at the Craft Guild of Chefs Awards held in London. The award, which celebrates those who have made an outstanding contribution to the F&B industry, highlighted his role in the on-going development of Dubai’s culinary scene since he joined the Jumeirah Group in 2001 and then moved to EAHM. Still a bit stunned by the honour, he talked through the experience with us.

THE AWARD Established in 1965 as a Guild of the Cookery and Food Association, the Craft Guild of Chefs has developed into the leading Chefs’ Association in the UK and has many members worldwide. Members come from all aspects of the food service and hospitality sectors working in a wide variety of positions from students and trainees to top management.

No other association boasts such a broad and experienced membership.

The People’s Choice Award was introduced by the Guild last year to celebrate the unsung heroes in the chef world and recognise a person who has made an outstanding contribution to the industry as a whole and made a big impact on their colleagues. 2012 nominees were: Geoff Acott - national treasurer of the Craft Guild and former captain at the Defence Food Services School Paul Gayler - executive chef of the Lanesborough Hotel Peter Hazzard - from Chaddlewood Consultancy and former executive director of food services at Sodexo Michael Kitts - senior chef lecturer at Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management

So, how did you hear about the award?

To be honest, I knew nothing about it until I heard from pub chef Gary Nichols that I’d been nominated. My first thought? It’s a long way to go for a dinner! I’d been the first winner of the competition chef award but I did a reality check on myself - I’d been out of the country for years so how did I have a chance?

How does the process work? Who was it who nominated you?

I was nomated by the key Guild members - there’s about ten of them. They put names forward to the general membership. The People’s Choice is for someone who has made an outstanding contribution to the industry.

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You heard you were on the list. Then what?

Then the phone started to ring. “Why don’t you come back? There’s only four people nominated.”

“It’ll be great to see you.” “Come - you’ve been nominated!” So I planned a five day trip with my wife Deb, our eldest daughter and her boyfriend.

Another nice bonus was seeing Gary Rhodes and his wife Jen who stopped in Dubai on the way back from India. As an aside, he said: “I’ve got to go to see some poxy thing back in the UK - in Wembley.” So I told him - that could be my night!

You’ve still got friends and colleagues in the UK? Oh yes. I arranged two tables of close friends at the ceremony - Team Mick! We also had Paul, who was also nominated, on my table. People were asking me ‘why?’, but he’s a mate and we both would be pleased if the other one, so why not?

Then, when my name was announced, the whole place just exploded, it went mad! Well, you never know. They called out my name and ‘bang’!. It was very humbling. And, of course, Paul was the first to congratulate me.

Why did you win?

I think I won for two reasons. I have a very solid background in competitions, in mentoring and teaching, starting at Thanet College and now with Jumeirah. And I’m still involved in the London scene with Hotelympia and so on.

Such an honour. And after that?

Well, you come back down to earth with a bang, which is good because I’m not a big head. Got back in Dubai late on Saturday night and first thing the next morning I had five big lads from Sri Lanka to look after for a five day course!

What next?

Life at the Academy continues and I’m looking forward to the International Fine Food Festival later in the year. It’s something quite different from other competitions with the Golden Toque.

I like the way that our students are going to be involved - it will be a great experience for them.

Receiving the award

“ANOTHER NICE BONUS WAS SEEING GARY RHODES AND HIS WIFE JEN WHO STOPPED IN DUBAI ON THE WAY BACK FROM INDIA. AS AN ASIDE, HE SAID: “I’VE GOT TO GO TO SEE SOME POXY THING BACK IN THE UK - IN WEMBLEY.” SO I TOLD HIM - THAT COULD BE MY NIGHT!”

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Book review

Taking your work home How do the world’s finest chefs cope with producing meals at home, without a team of commis chefs to do all the hard work? Well, explaining their techniques seems to be the latest trend for cookery books and we look at a couple of the leading contenders from Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adrià.

The Family Meal: Home Cooking with Ferran Adrià Ferran Adrià Phaidon Press

A

fter stunning the world for year after year at el Bulli, Catalan wonder chef Ferran Adrià has moved on, with his no reservation policy tapas bar in Barcelona, continuing food consultancy and much talk of a food information portal Bullipaedia to keep him busy, as well as the mysterious el Bull Foundation which will continue the research that kept 50 covers a night happy for just six months of the year at el Bulli.

He also continues to milk the fascination that food lovers have with el Bulli, now producing a steady stream of recipe books, documentaries and behind the scenes looks.

Presentled perhaps a little misleadingly as ‘el Bulli in your own kitchen’ this is, instead, a guide to the staff meals that were served daily to the staff at 6pm, served family style.

What makes them different is that, that instead of the 30+ courses diners could expect in the restaurant, these are much more conventional three course dinners. And the wild experimentation that was the hallmark of his style is replaced with a simpler, rustic approach.

The result is a fascinating glimpse into the more private side of Adrià. This is the man whose favourite restaurant was a tiny, family run place in the back streets of Roses where screamingly fresh seafood was cooked and served simply. So don’t expect anything like his frozen Gorgonzola balloon - a hollow sphere meant to be shattered at table and then eaten in thin shards.

Instead you have a focus on good fresh food using easy-to-find ingredients with meals that are very affordable - say under Dhs 60 for three courses per person. Available here are 31 different meals presented in a very different style: every recipe is presented in about 15 photos showing every step, with instructions superimposed. In that

44

Mackerel and potato stew step by step recipe. Meal 2: Pasta Bolognese, Mackerel and potato stew, Chocolate cookies sense, it’s blog-like.

“This is a radical book,” he admits.

“I am known for avant garde cuisine, and this is also avant garde. What I have looked for are good, nutritious meals that can be made in around 45 minutes and at a budget. We can’t talk about home cooking and then give people recipes for prawns and lobster. I’ve got to try to find the best fish but, also, the cheapest.”

His hope with the book is that it will help change attitudes to food: he’d love to inspire home cooks to have higher expectations for their families. “People should be eating much better than they have ever eaten before,” he regrets.

Which is perhaps a lesson he should have taken more to heart. Recipes are presented in multiple servings from two up to 75, but ingredients don’t necessarily rise in the right proportions! One biscuit recipe sees spices only double when the biscuit count increases five fold.

If the book has a major failing, however, it probably lies in the lack of breadth of the recipes.

Despite the highly international nature of the 70+ el Bulli staff, the recipes are resolutely southern European. Perhaps that’s not surprising given Adrià’s Catalan roots but I would have expected

such an experimental chef to have cast his net a little wider than the Mediterranean.

Much of the content is aimed at the home cook but I think even the most experienced chef will gain something from the insight of Adrià. Even if they don’t often have to cook for 75 per sitting!

SAMPLE MEALS FROM FERRAN Caesar salad, Cheeseburger and potato chips, Santiago cake Pasta bolognese, Mackerel and potato stew, Chocolate cookies Polenta and parmesan gratin, Sesame sardines with carrot salad, Mango with white chocolate yoghurt Lime-marinated fish, Osso buco, Pina colada Guacamole with tortilla chips, Mexican style chicken with rice, Watermelon with menthol candies Gazpacho, Black rice with squid, Bread with chocolate and olive oil Fish soup, Sausages with mushrooms, Oranges with honey, olive oil and salt

All photography from the book by Francesc Guillamet and Maribel Ruiz de Erenchun.

Portrait of Ferran: courtesy elBulli/Phaidon Press.

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Book review

Heston Blumenthal at Home Heston Blumenthal Bloomsbury

BOTH TIME SAVING AND ENERGY EFFICIENT, HIS TECHNIQUES REVEALED IN THE BOOK UNLOCK NEW POTENTIAL IN BOTH TASTE AND FLAVOUR, SOMETHING ALL CHEFS SHOULD FIND OF INTEREST.

A

lmost completely self-taught as a chef, Blumenthal is one of the few UK chefs to have achieved three Michelin stars. Known for ferociously complex techniques and off-the-wall flavour combinations, he is perhaps the last chef you’d think of writing a cookery book for the home.

But it’s an experiment that works gloriously.

His strengths lie in his total determination to understand cooking processes and in a refusal to blindly follow accepted culinary wisdom, based on his early reading of Harold McGee’s ‘On Food and Cooking’, which contained the phrase that set him off on his adventures: “We do know for a fact that searing does not seal...” The results of his relentless questioning and testing of culinary ideas lie at the heart of this book, which delivers his rigorous scepticism in ways that lesser cooks can easily absorb and understand.

Thankfully, however, his occasional streaks of over-enthusiastic madness have been curtailed. No trace here, for example, of the time he injected his head chef with twice the recommended dose of chilli whilst he was undergoing an MRI in order to study its effect on his brain!

Instead, his method is simple: he aims to prove that science can dramatically improve the way we eat. Both time saving and energy efficient, his techniques revealed in the book unlock new potential in both taste and flavour, something all chefs should find of interest. The book combines 15 sections on new techniques (stocks, brining, curing, etc) with 150 recipes, some fairly normal like fish and chips and some a little stranger like salmon with licorice.

It’s heavily practical and though there are elements that many home cooks would struggle with, professional chefs should not blanch at the thought of sous vide equipment or dry ice in the home kitchens. It also doesn’t hurt that the book is beautifully designed with great photography.

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Fish pie

Lemon tart

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Market fresh

Serendipitous discoveries With one of the most complex and distinct cuisines of south-east Asia, Sri Lankan food has been largely sidestepped as enthusiastic diners have embraced Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Thai and even Vietnamese food from the region.

Visitors to the island return raving about the flavours and spiciness of dishes, but they seem almost completely absent from the Middle East fine dining scene, despite the large number of Sri Lankan chefs here in the Gulf. Dave Reeder visits the capital Colombo with camera in hand.

F

rom Simhaladvipa to Suvarnadweepa, Seren deevu to Serendip, Ceylon to Sri Lanka, the various historical names of the large, teardrop shaped island off India’s southern tip reveal the complexity of the place’s history and cultural mix.

Burned into people’s minds as a place of conflict between the majority Singalese (74%) and the minority Tamils (18%) - now largely resolved, although tensions remain - the island’s lack of primary historical sources have meant that a

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combination of religious texts and archaeology have been used by rival claimants to the original colonisation. Both Sinhalese and Tamils believe they were the indigenous community, but some scholars also believe that the two groups weren’t really distinct millenia ago!

Over centuries, the two groups have co-existed and fought, the whole mess complicated by the arrival of colonial powers from the 15th century onwards, from both Asia and Europe. The Chinese arrived in 1411, followed by the Portuguese in

A small amount of food but still good quality!

Travel

TYPICAL DISHES Some popular Sri Lankan recipes and dishes include: Hoppers - Pancakes made from a mix of rice flour, coconut milk, and palm toddy (alcoholic beverage made from palm sap) or yeast. There are many varieties of hoppers, including versions with egg, with creamy coconut milk inside, and sweet varieties. Hoppers are usually eaten for breakfast or dinner.

Kiribath - Rice cooked in coconut milk. The dish is prepared by boiling the rice in water for about 15 minutes and then adding coconut milk and continuing to cook until the liquid is absorbed. Salt is used to season the dish when cooking, and cashew or sesame seeds are also sometimes added. Kiribath may be eaten with lunumiris (red onions and fiery spices), with jaggery (unrefined sugar) and bananas, or on special occasions with various sweets.

Koola’ya - A dish made from mixing leftover curries with rice, and making it into balls. It is often served at temples and is eaten with chapati (thin flatbread).

Kottu - A pancake with vegetables, egg and meat. There are many varieties including both vegetarian and meat versions. Although not traditional, cheese is also nowadays sometimes added to the dish.

Vada - A savory snack made from dal (stewed pulses), lentil or potato.

Fresh daily from up-country

Deep in the heart of the market

Tea is everywhere!

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Travel search of spice. By 1597, they controlled most of the island apart from the powerful Sinhalese kingdom of Kandy, which persuaded the Dutch to help throw out the Portuguese in 1658. The Dutch and French built an alliance that lasted till 1795, at which point problems back in the Netherlands allowed the British to gain control of Ceylon, although Kandy managed to hold out until 1815.

Tamil labourers from southern India were brought into the country in great numbers as plantations for coffee, tea, cinnamon and coconut spread across the island.

Things changed again with independence after World War 2. The new government replaced English with Sinhalese as the national language and conflict between the majority Sinhalese and the two minority groups of English-speaking, Christian-educated elite and Tamil Hindus was inevitable. At the same time, the mix of cultures created a variety of cuisines.

The mix in the island’s history of Buddhism and Hinduism, Christianity and Islam, together with remnants of a colonial past from Malaysia, the Middle East and Europe, together with some traces of the island’s original aboriginals means that food in Sri Lanka is familiar enough for those who love southern Indian cuisine but different enough to inspire and excite them with a rather different taste.

The overriding flavour, not surprisingly given its ubiquity in agriculture, is pepper, along with

Food brought from the countryside

EAT HERE For various historical reasons, you won’t find the usual vibrant capital city dining culture in Colombo as you might expect. A tradition of eating at home, a long period of security issues, a lack of urban development and the fact that it has acted as a hub and conduit for tourists rather than a major destination have all combined to make the eating scene less than enthralling.

Between the ‘short eats’ canteens to the usual international restaurants in hotels, food lovers have been hard pressed to find exceptional authentic local food, most of which is watered down for the tourists who are presumed not to like the chilli heat that Sri Lankans crave.

However, things are changing - the Old Colombo Dutch Hospital redevelopment is a fine example of this. Meanwhile, though, there are some stops on your gastro route that should be essential. We’d recommend you try: The Gallery Cafe The food may only be Sri Lankan inspired but the setting more than makes up for it. Set in a historic building that used to be the office for the country’s most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa, an open air cafe overlooks a pebbled courtyard. decor is stunning, the atmosphere chilled and the food is flavoursome and striking.

Galle Face Hotel The classic spot for a cocktail waitching the sun set

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over the ocean. The food is, at best, disappointing so a much better bet is to join the crowds strolling along Galle Face and snack from the many vendors who set up every evening.

lush gardens, the Cinnamon Grand Colombo built a recreation of a native village, which offers buffet style meals of quality, whilst diners can also learn something about traditional life.

Green Cabin Worth seeking out for its extensive lunchtime buffet of Sri Lankan, Indian and Chinese dishes. It’s cheap and the mango curry is exceptional.

Old Colombo Dutch Hospital Right in the heart of town, this complex is thought to be the oldest building in the Colombo Fort area dating back to the Dutch colonial era. Built about 1680, it was built to serve employees of the Dutch East India Company and, after various uses, it finally suffered damage in a 1996 explosion in the city centre. Now sensitively rebuilt, it’s a complex of small craft shops, spas and a number of places to eat, inclouding the well-known Republic of Crab and Semondu (see below).

Beach Wadiya The closest thing Colombo has to a traditional celebrity haunt with patrons like Richard Branson nursing a chilled one on a beach table whilst the waiter runs through the day’s seafood catch and waits for cooking instructions. Bizarrely, you have to cross a railway line to get here and there are no signals to warn you of approaching trains!

Cricket Club Cafe Not really a food destination but a nice evocation of Colombo’s colonial past, this old-style bungalow with veranda and garden offers cricket memorabilia and a fairly standard pub grub menu. But you’re here for the atmosphere and the peace and quiet in the middle of the bustling city, not the food.

Nuga Gama With the best Sri Lankan food served in the home and not in restaurants, this is quite a novel solution to delivering an ‘authentic’ eating experience. In its rather

Semondu If you only eat Sri Lankan food once in the city, then this should be your choice! However, it may appear at first a strange choice - after all, the restaurant is basically serving the best in-flight dishes from national carrier SriLankan Airlines, a fusion mix that is true to the taste if not always the spirit of the island’s dishes. The food is delicious, overseen by Executive Chef Sunil Danthanarayana, who returned to Sri Lanka after the best part of a decade with Radisson Blu Deira Creek. The whole ambience, style and quality will remind you of Dubai fine dining and the place is worth seeking out for lunch or dinner.

Travel other spices. Rice is central to the diet - boiled, steamed or as a fermented rice pancake (hopper).

Coastal areas offer a wealth of seafood. And everywhere, local fruits appear fresh and delicious: rambutans, pineapples, mangoes, passionfruit and coconuts.

A staple meal is usually a large serving of rice accompanied by up to a dozen different side dishes of vegetables, egg, meat, or fish stewed together with peppers, spices and often coconut milk. This is typically eaten at lunch. Breakfast and evening meals consist of a traditional starch (string hoppers, hoppers, roti or dosa), served with a sambol and a couple of curries.

Traditionally, eating outside of the home has never been very common, although that is now changing rapidly. In almost every town there is at least one Chinese-style restaurant where alcohol is also served, as well as Sinhala, Muslim, and Tamil restaurants and traditional snack booths. In the capital, Western chain restaurants as well as other foreign-style foods are increasingly available.

There iarersome ethnic variations in foods and customs, as well as food taboos. Muslims avoid pork while Hindus are often vegetarian. Sinhala and Tamil people tend to take care that the foods served together create a balance of hot and cold energies. They also typically will not accept food prepared by those of relatively lower caste status.

All of this suggests that the tourist and food enthusiast has a lot to look forward to on this magical island.

And, as Chandra Wickramasinghe, Chairman of tour company Connaisance de Ceylan (local partner of Chillout365, who kindly arranged some food-related touring round Colombo), “things are changing fast”. Although signs of the emergency are still around, there’s also a lot of exciting new initiatives. He recently opened his latest hotel Maalu Maalu on the largely underdeveloped east coast at Passekudah and is already seeing serious interest both in its idyllic location but also in the opportunity for people to discover the history and culture of the less explored parts of the island.

“We built it around a traditional fishing village complex theme so people could feel what life was like. The food, with fabulous seafood, is great, of course! The area is home to a very distinct group,

descended from the Dutch Burghers who speak a very specific dialect. We serve their very distinct food once a week - it’s a great opportunity to open up these almost forgotten parts of our culture. Things are changing.”

Wickramasinghe himself is an enthusiastic diner, who combines the twin delights of traditional food at home and more adventurous, fusioninspired meals during the day. “Sri Lankan food is very distinct, very good. Whenever I travel - and I have been often to Dubai for exhibitions - I am amazed not to find it more readily available.

People don’t know what they’re missing!”

Mind your back!

Nothing is wasted

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SHORT EATS Sit down at any small tea shop or canteen and you’ll be met by a plate of ‘short eats’ - a variety of snacks that you pay for by the piece. Popular for breakfast or early evening, they’re readily available at all times and include pastries, rolls and patties.

A typical variety might include: Mutton roll - tender pieces of mutton with potato and seasoned with spices.

Dhal vade.

Chinese rolls.

Egg rolls.

Patties - filled with vegetables and either meat or fish.

Vegetable or fish roti - a flatbread with a variety of spicy fillings rolled into a triangular shape and then baked.

Travel

Dried ямБsh is a staple

Food quality is exceptional

A STAPLE MEAL IS A LARGE SERVING OF RICE ACCOMPANIED

BY UP TO A DOZEN DIFFERENT SIDE DISHES OF VEGETABLES, EGG, MEAT, OR FISH STEWED TOGETHER WITH PEPPERS, SPICES AND OFTEN COCONUT MILK. THIS IS TYPICALLY EATEN AT LUNCH. BREAKFAST AND EVENING MEALS CONSIST OF A TRADITIONAL STARCH (STRING HOPPERS, HOPPERS, ROTI OR DOSA), SERVED WITH A SAMBOL AND A COUPLE OF CURRIES.

Preparing for the morning rush

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Travel

A tale of two lamprais Seen by many as the classic Sri Lankan colonial dish, lamprais originated with Dutch Burgher community, although it is now popular with all groups. Its origin is unclear, although it shares characteristics with the biryana. The word itself is believed to be an anglicised version of the original Dutch: klomp (lump) rijst (rice).

“It’s not the most attractive dish,” admits Sunil Danthanarayana, F&B Consultant for SriLankan Catering and Executive Chef of Semondu in Colombo, “but you could say that lamprais is a national obsession.”

Traditionally, a lamprais consists of a mound of samba rice boiled in stock served with a spiced mixed-meat curry (chicken/beef/pork) which is accompanied by frikkadels (breaded meatballs), brinjal pahè (deep fried aubergine in sauce), blachan (a spicy shrimp paste), ash plantains and a side order of seeni sambol (caramalised fried onions). This whole meal is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed, which allows all the flavours to infuse. Merely unwrap the banana leaf and eat!

Authentic lamprais is quite a rich dish, so it tends to be served in smallish portions especially on special occasions. Like many “classic” dishes, argument continues about exactly what should be in a lamprais hence it’s served in smaller portions reserved for special occasions so if you should find yourself with a huge packet of lamprais, chances are it’s not really lamprais! Classic variations also include fish or vegetables.

“When we approached the dish for the menu,” continues Danthanarayana, “I was determined that we should be as authentic as possible. As I found during my time in Dubai, Sri Lankan cuisine has a hard time breaking into the fine dining scene. I’m not sure why. Ppeople really appreciate it when they try it, but I think part of it may be the appearance. Lamprais is a perfect example: it’s traditional and authentic which people enjoy, it smells and tastes fantastic but when you see a tourist open up the banana leaf to find the mix inside, you can tell it’s not the best experience for them. So we reinvented it.”

Danthanarayana’s reinvention consisted largely of plating the dish to more normal fine dining style, which mainly meant dividing the elements into more distinct parts of the dish, replacing the breaded meatball with a fish croquette and then serving the rice on a disk of banana leaf instead of wrapping it in it.

The result? “It’s a very popular dish.”

Traditional lamprais

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Lamprais, Semondu style Note: The are separate recipes here for the rice, meat, sambol, fish cutlet, ash plantain and eggplant moju.

Make all of these and then assemble for the final stages as explained.

stir constantly for two minutes.

4 Add the stock. Let it boil once then simmer for five minutes before adding the coconut milk. When the rice is cooked, spices will emerge on top. Remove them and then stir well to prevent the rice going lumpy.

Rice

Meat

Ingredients: 500g basmati or long grain rice 2tbs ghee or other oil 1tbs onion sliced 6 cloves 8 peppercorns 8 cardamom pods 1tb turmeric powder 2in lemongrass 2in cinnamon 2 1/2 cup meat or vegetable stock 1 cup prepared coconut milk 2tbs salt 1 sprig curry leaves 2in rampe or pandang leaves 1/2 tbs nutmeg powder

Ingredients: (part A) 250g boneless chicken/mutton cubes 200g pork cubes/ox liver/soya meat or TVP 1tbs chilli powder 1tsp turmeric powder 1tbs roasted curry powder 3 cardamom pods 3 cloves 1in cinnamon 2-3 cups strong coconut milk salt to taste 2tbs vinegar 2tbs ghee or other oil 1/4 cup tamarind pulp 1tsp sugar

Method: 1 Wash and drain the rice, then set aside.

2 Heat the oil in a large thick bottom pan, add the onion and fry till golden brown then mix all of the ingredients except for the rice and the coconut milk.

3 Cook for a few minutes then add rice and

(part B) 1tsp chopped onion or shallot 1/2tsp fenugreek 1in rampe or lemongrass 2 sprigs curry leaves 1tb garlic 1/2bs ginger chopped

Travel

Fish cutlet (fricadales) Ingredients: 280g canned tuna flakes or jack mackerel 1tbs onion, chopped 3 green chillies, chopped and deseeded 1tsp garlic, chopped 1tsp ginger, chopped 1 sprig curry leaves 1in rampe 1in lemongrass, chopped finely Salt & pepper to taste.

1tsp lime or lemon juice 1tbs roasted or Madras curry powder 1tsp turmeric powder 250g potato, boiled and then mashed with a fork 2 eggs, beaten 2tbs flour 1/2 cup breadcrumbs Method: 1 Drain the canned tuna and set aside.

2 Heat oil and add onion, rampe, curry leaves, garlic, ginger, green chilli and lemongrass. Fry till golden brown then add the curry powder, turmeric powder then the tuna flakes and the potatoes.

Stir gently without mashing the mixture. Season.

3 Divide the mixture into ten equal balls. Flour and egg them then fry till golden brown.

Ash plantain and mango Method: 1 Cut all the meat into half inch cubes and then marinate the meat with all the (A) ingredients, except the coconut milk.

Refrigerate for three to four hours.

2 Heat a pan then add ghee or oil as well as all (B) ingredients. Fry until you get a appetising aroma, add the marinated meat and cook, stirring occasionally until all the liquid has evaporated.

3 Add the coconut milk and cook for five minutes then add the tamarind pulp. Correct the seasoning and add sugar to the mixture.

Seeni sambol Ingredients: 500g onion 2-3tbs red chilli flakes 2in rampe cut into half inch pieces 2in cinnamon 5 cloves 6 cardamom pods 2 sprigs curry leaves 2tbs ghee or other oil 3-4tbs tamarind pulp 2tbs brown sugar salt to taste Method: 1 Heat a pan, add the oil or ghee then add the mixted ingredients and cook till caramelised. Cook till golden brown.

2 Finally, add the tamarind pulp and sugar to taste.

Ingredients: 250g ash plantain or cooking banana 250g raw mango 1tsp turmeric powder 1tsp chilli powder salt to taste 1tsp curry or Madras curry powder 1tsp cumin powder 2tbs onion, chopped 1 green chilli, sliced 1 sprig curry leaves 1in rampe 1in cinnamon 1tbs vinegar 1tbs sugar 1 cup thick coconut milk 1tsp ginger, chopped 1tsp garlic, chopped Method: 1 Peel the ash plantain or banana, cut into quarter inch cubes and mix with salt, turmeric powder and a dash of chillli powder.

2 Heat the oil and deep fry the ash plantain, remove and drain, then put them on a paper towel to absorb the excess oil.

3 Heat another pan, add oil and, when hot, mix the onion, rampe, curry leaves, garlic, ginger, turmeric powder, chilli powder, cumin powder and curry powder. Stir till you get an aroma.

4 Add vinegar, ginger and mango and cook for a few minutes. Then add fried ash plantain and sugar.

Simmer for five minutes and adjust seasoning.

Chef Danthanarayana Eggplant/capsicum moju Ingredients: 500g eggplant, cut into one inch batons 100g shallot or red onion 1 green pepper/capsicum, cut into half inch cube 2 green chillies, cut into quarter inch cubes 2tbs garlic, chopped 1tbs ginger, chopped 1tbs chilli flakes 3tbs vinegar 1tbs grain mustard powder 1tbs sugar 2tbs cashew nuts.

1in lemongrass, chopped finely 1in rampe 1 sprig curry leaves 2 cardamom pods, powdered 2 cloves, powdered 1tbs curry powder 1tbs turmeric powder 1tsp chilli powder eggs, to your taste Method: 1 Season the eggplant, shallots, green pepper, capsicum and green chilli separately with a dash of chilli powder, turmeric powder and salt.

2 Deep fry them individually and drain.

3 Heat the pan and add a little oil when hot, then add curry leaves, lemongrass, rampe, chilli flakes, garlic, mustard seeds, ginger, cloves cardamom and sugar together with vinegar and boil for two to three minutes.

4 Gently mix the fried items, stir carefully, then correct the seasoning.

5 Hard boil the eggs then shell and season with salt, chilli powder and turmeric powder. Coat the eggs then deep fry.

Bring it all together: This can be served on individual dishes but this not the authentic way to do so. Instead, ferment a 20-inch square banana leaf. Centre the rice and all other accompaniments around the rice, then the egg and cutlet on top. Fold the banana leaf in.

Bake at 350C for 20-30 minutes and serve hot.

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The last word

Object of desire Chefs and sommeliers are just like the rest of us - they love gadgets! And a new one that is taking bars by storm in the USA looks to have uses outside of merely livening up cocktails. We take a look at a system that’s making the old carbonated favourite Soda Stream look dangerously old school.

A

s the cocktail returns to its glamour days, customer demand is for more excitement and variety.

That’s even more true here in the Middle East where cultural demands for mocktails means that customers want more than just a mix of fruit juices and syrops.

Chefs too, ready to move on past the age of foam, are looking also for new ways to add more interest to dishes.

Step forward the Perlage Perlini Carbonated Cocktail System. Put simply, it’s a cocktail shaker that carbonates whatever’s inside the shaker, but the manufacturer has delivered what looks like a futuiristic weapon system that arrives inside a metal attache case. You can almost picture the scene in the next Bond movie as M talks 007 through it: “Now Bond, in your next assignment you’ll almost certainly meet a young lady and what better way of impressing her than with this carbonated cocktail maker which, if you realign the parts, converts into a mini-missile launcher...”

Certainly the manufacturers are desperate to make a simple idea look as complex as possible and the basic concept of ‘put ice and ingredients in shaker, seal it shut, attach to a carbon dioxide dispenser, pressurise, pour through the in-built strainer’ has been converted into a veritable pile of components and an explanatory video.

Of course, you could do much the same with a can of soda water or an iSi canister but the full-on theatricality of the Perlini system will give you serious bragging rights, albeit at a $200 price tag.

It’s available in two versions: consumer and commercial. The latter uses a pressuriser that connects to a carbon dioxide cylinder or can be spliced into an existing soda dispensing system, whilst the domestic version uses a portable handheld filler that uses disposable carbon dioxide cartridges. The pressurisation hardware for both is also compatible with the Perlage Champagne Preservation System.

Step one: open your metal attache case.

Step two: look suitably amazed!

TRY THIS An old time drink that is making a comeback is the ‘shrub’, a beverage that used to be popular with agricultural workers. A combination of fruit, water and vinegar, it’s very refreshing on a hot day and could be ideal for customers here in the Gulf, especially if carbonated.

Chefs are bound to find loads of uses for Perlini in the kitchen such as carbonated garnishes, sauces, foams and the like. Turn yourself into Heston and be part mixologist, part chef and part mad scientist!

BUBBLES FOR EVERYONE! THE PERLINI SYSTEM NOT ONLY TRANSFORMS A NORMAL COCKTAIL OR MOCKTAIL, BUT ALSO ADDS A NEW TOOL TO THE MOLECULAR GASTRONOMIST’S ARSENAL. SPARKLING SOUP? BUBBLY VEGETABLE SHOOTERS TOPPED WITH SMOKE? THE ONLY LIMIT IS YOUR IMAGINATION. 56

The perfect recipe for success from our chefs

At Unilever Food Solutions, we constantly dish out new ingredients, new recipes and new ideas to serve every need of the industry’s leading professionals. Solutions that save your prep time, keep your menu fresh and exciting as well as help you grow your business, naturally healthy.

Unilever Food Solutions: Tel. +971 4 881 5552 | UAE Distributor: +971 4 347 0444 / +971 4 347 3455 For more information, email: mohammad.shanawani@unilever.com