The Pro Chef Middle East - March Issue, 2015

ISSUE 37 MARCH 2015

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 37 MARCH 2015

GLUTEN - ARE YOU INTOLERANT? | WHEN FOOD BECOMES A PROBLEM | FROM CUBA TO THE CAPITAL

Contents

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20

28

40

UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

02

EDITORIAL Whatever happened to the old restaurant classics? Are we so fixated on reinvention that we’ve forgotten how good some old time dishes were?

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THE EGGS FACTOR Executive Chef Sudqi Naddaf from Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates reveals what’s in his fridge.

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STEP BY STEP Executive Chef Christophe Prud’homme from Al Bustan Rotana takes us through two of his favourites dishes.

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16 OUT AND ABOUT A dreadfully busy month, covering Gulfood, a Canada Beef workshop, an Italian cheese masterclass, a Slow Food day trip and, finally, the opening of a new chocolate academy.

PRODUCT FOCUS Caviar from Abu Dhabi? Yes and the business is booming.

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04

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MARKET FOCUS As gluten intolerance becomes more and more apparent, how are chefs reacting to the necessary changes to their menus?

FACE TO FACE Up close and personal this month with Chefs Louis Pous from Asia de Cuba, Simon Rimmer from The Scene and Vladimiro Gadioli from Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach.

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RECIPE CORNER Great dishes from Catch, Lalezat and Lafayette Gourmet for you this month.

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MARKET FOCUS We love food but many teenagers find it a minefield of confusion and hurt. Learn how we can understand the world of eating disorders.

THE LAST WORD A world without servers?

Welcome to the future of restaurant drones.

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UP FRONT / editor’s letter

Who moved the cheese?

Thinking the other day about what to cook at the weekend, I was inspired by a recent episode of MasterChef Professional and suddenly thought of Sole Veronique - a dish I haven’t cooked for over 20 years. A shame as it’s a real classic. Then I realised I hadn’t even seen it on a menu for about the same time, even in France where Sole meuniere is ubiquitous on most brasserie menus.

How does a dish so simple and so delicious just slip out of our culinary repertoire?

The trouble is, it’s not alone. Outside of France, I don’t recall Skate wing with black butter on a menu, or Crepes Suzette. Even Creme brulee now seems a rarity. It’s almost as if a silent assassin is slowly working his way through the classical French repertoire. Chateaubriand? Steak Diane? Lobster thermidor? At least you can still get an omelette…

And it’s not just the French classics that are slipping away. Does anyone still serve Devilled kidneys or Vienna schnitzel? Trifle or Pavlova? Chicken Kiev or Mulligatawny soup? Porchetta or Yorkshire puddings? Even something as ubiquitous a few ago like Spaghetti Bolognese is now a rarity. And please don’t get me started on the lack of a decent cheeseboard or even the choice of cheese instead of dessert!

I can understand some of these dishes vanishing because they involved tableside action and that’s a cost most restaurants don’t want any more. I can understand chefs wanting to create their own mark and be inventive.

I can understand customer tastes changing. I can understand the days of ceremonial cloche removal is now limited to just the very high end of the trade. But I can’t understand why so many classic dishes have been forgotten about.

Maybe there’s room in the market for a retro restaurant, when diners can indulge in dishes that they can’t find anymore. Or maybe classic dishes as highlighted blackboard items, just as long as they’re not always deconstructed.

This isn’t just misplaced nostalgia. It’s a real concern that staples of the classical repertoire aren’t being offered any more and that new generations will miss out on dishes that their parents and grandparents took for granted.

CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER DOMINIC DE SOUSA CEO NADEEM HOOD COO GINA O’HARA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 50 450 6745 GROUP DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL PAUL GODFREY EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR DESIGNER ODILAINE SALALAC-MEJORADA PHOTOGRAPHER,, HOSPITALITY DIVISION MAKSYM PORIECHKIN, CHARLS THOMAS GROUP DIRECTOR OF SALES CAROL OWEN carol.owen@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 055 880 3817 PRODUCTION MANAGER,, HOSPITALITY DIVISION JAMES THARIAN

And that’s a real shame.

WEB DEVELOPER,, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA MANAGER – DA ATA AT TA T A AN AND ND DIIST IS ST S TRI RIBUTI UTION TION N RAJEESH M Email: ra aje jjee ee e esh. h..na nai aiir@c a @c @ cp pim pi iim med med edi e diagr di iagr ag grro g oup ou up u .co com D:+971 1 4 440 44 40 91 40 914 42 2 SUBSC CRIP CR PTION PT IO ONS ON www..c .cpi cp c piiev even ev ent e nttss. n nts.n s.n ..n ne et/ t//m mag ma ag ag/m /ma ma m agaz agaz gazin ine ne.ph ne .p ph p hp PRI PR P RIN RI NT NTE TE ED BY Prri P Pri rin rin ntw tw we ell ll ll P Prrint in ntting in ng P ng Prress essss L LL LC, C, D Du Dub uba ub aii, ai, i UA UAE PU P UB U BLI LIIS LIS SH HED HE ED B BY Y

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UP FRONT / out and about

20th and the biggest yet!

Food security, food franchising and halal food industry were amongst the key topics on the agenda at the landmark 20th edition of world’s biggest annual food trade exhibition, Gulfood.

Beyond its position as one of the highest volume trading platforms of any international food industry trade show, Gulfood remains the centre of knowledge exchange for many food-related sectors. At the highest level, Gulfood 2015 hosted the World Food Security Summit – one of the world’s most important platforms for addressing global food security action plans and policies.

Heavy reliance on imports, population growth, increasing demand for animal protein and limited water supply make the issue of food security particularly relevant for the region.

While 1.3b tonnes of food are lost or wasted globally every year (Food and Agriculture Organisation – United Nations), demand for food worldwide is predicted to increase by 60% by 2050. The World Food Security Summit brought together key global policy makers and senior industry professionals to explore

strategies and solutions to address a sustainable global agriculture industry, policy reforms, international farmland acquisition strategies and domestic agriculture initiatives amongst others.

Summit keynote speaker HE Khadim Abdullah Al Darei, Co-Founder and MD of Al Dahra Agriculture, said: “Securing immediate and longterm food security remains an on-going priority for many regional and international governments. With insufficient arable farming conditions across the region forcing several Arab nations to invest in foreign land to expand their agriculture sectors, the policy of effective, responsible and ethical agro-investment should not jeopardise food security – it should strengthen it."

The biggest edition in the show’s history, Gulfood 2015 attracted more than 80,000 visitors from 170 countries and 4,800 international exhibitors from 120 countries.

“Food security is particularly important for the Gulf and wider Middle East because of rapidly increasing population, a dearth of arable land and the shortage of water. These factors are not going to change – so we need to mitigate them with strategic solutions planned well ahead of time."

- HE Essa Al Ghurair, Chairman, Al Ghurair Resources

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out and about / UP FRONT

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / out and about

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out and about / UP FRONT

HALAL FOCUS Gulfood 2015 saw more than 1,000 international specialist Halal food brands and companies whose products - from energy drinks, vegan and vegetarian foods to meat and poultry, canned goods, gourmet and fine foods - represented part of one of the fastest growing segments of the worldwide food industry, currently worth $1.1t globally.

Beyond the significant, sector-specific commercial and trading opportunities presented at the the second annual Halal World Food show-within-a-show, there was also an inaugural Halal Investment Conference that brought together Halal food policy-shapers, government entities and major local, regional and international private sector players to discuss business opportunities, as well as the implementation of far-reaching standardisation and certification frameworks.

According to Datamonitor, the global Halal

food market now accounts for a fifth of the world’s food trade. As the primary trading hub for Halal food in the MENA region, Dubai has both the ambition and world-class infrastructure to become a worldwide Halal centre.

“Because no unified Halal standard exists in the global market, even those products that are labeled Halal might not necessarily be fit for Muslim consumption. We believe that Dubai, with its vision to become the capital of the Islamic Economy and the introduction of its Halal scheme - a set of global unified standards - will level the playing field for all Halal manufactures and restore consumer confidence,” said Idris Mohammed, Director, TillySabco Bretagne - the French leaders in chicken production and slaughtering and the title sponsor of the Halal Investment Conference.

With GCC Halal food imports projected to rise from $25.8b in 2010 to $53.1b by 2020 (Economist Intelligence Unit), the UAE is progressing a series

of initiatives: the Emirates Authority for Standardisation and Metrology (ESMA) and Dubai Municipality are working to establish unified Halal standards that will be introduced to all Islamic countries and Dubai has dedicated 6.7m sq.m of land in Dubai Industrial City for a dedicated Halal cluster reserved for manufacturing and logistics companies dealing in Halal products.

ESMA and Dubai Municipality are working to establish unified Halal standards that will be introduced to all Islamic countries.

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / out and about

What's the beef?

An exclusive seminar and tasting of premium Canadian beef and veal was held during Gulfood 2015 at Lafayette Gourmet. This industry-only session gave chefs and others a unique opportunity to learn more about the 'Canadian Beef Advantage'.

A

ccording to Robert Serapiglia, Director, Business Innovation, Canada Beef, Canada's A, AA, AAA and Prime grades assure the highest quality beef because grading of beef carcasses is performed in accordance with strict national standards for meat and fat colour, carcass muscling, firm texture, maturity and fat coverage.

He told an audience of chefs and other F&B professionals at a invite-only event that grainfinished beef from superior cattle genetics provide an outstanding eating experience. In addition, Canadian beef has a nutritional competitive advantage and, packed with protein, vitamins and minerals, it is a delicious and efficient way to use the centre of the plate to meet the nutritional needs of diners.

He also stressed that food safety is a key priority In Canada with systems for beef production on both farm and processing level, based on HACCP. Also speaking were Robert Meijer, President, Canada Beef and Karine Barlow, RD, Director, Nutritional Marketing, Canada Beef, who surprised the audience with four facts: * The fat content of chicken is similar to that of beef, yet the iron content in beef is over double that of chicken. * Over ten years of science shows beef is compatible with a cholesterol lowering diet. * People who consume beef more often also consume more vegetables and have smaller waist circumferences. * Beef and olive oil have something in common - Oleic acid. Half of the fat in beef is the same as olive oil.

Following the presentations, guests were treated to a series of dishes prepared by Chef Russell Impiazzi, Gourmet Culinary Director of Galeries Lafeyette, as well as a chef's perspective. You'll find his Canadian beef recipes in this issue.

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out and about / UP FRONT

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / out and about

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo

Chefs slowing down Led by Bernard Fantoli, Corporate F&B Director of TIME Hotels, and Laura Allais-MarĂŠ, founder of Slow Food Dubai, a group of TIME chefs and other F&B personnel toured Deira Fish Market and the Spice Suq, learning about the ethos of the Slow Food movement in the process.

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

Berum lis exeruntio inctusa si omnis eatempo rrovitios

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UP FRONT / out and about

Protecting cheese this year's Gulfood saw AFIDOP (the association of Italian Protected Designation of Origin cheeses) bring together the main consortia for the protection iof Italian cheeses. A cheese tasting and a cooking show followed the conference.

Six Italian PDO cheeses - Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Toscano, Mozzarella di bufala, Grana Padano, Gorgonzola and Asiago - were introduced

by AFIDOP (the association of Italian Protected Designation of Origin cheeses) and the ITA Italian Trade Commission.

“The aim of this event is to promote the high quality of the Italian PDO cheeses, their uniqueness, high standards and to highlight the production techniques," explained Luca Cracco, Director at Asiago Cheese PDO Consortium “Italian PDO cheeses are deeply rooted in history and in the everyday life of our country. Their fame is strictly linked to the land in which they are born and we owe it to the hard work of our ancestors, who knew a unique and inimitable way to transform milk and how to maintain such a tradition. It is also thanks to them that today these cheeses triumph on the tables of restaurants and in families all over the world”.

The acronym PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) is affixed to the most important traditional Italian cheeses and refers to the region and

production area of a specific cheese, whose characteristics are strictly related to a geographic area, the only place where it can be produced. All PDO products are subject to a set of traditional codified rules within the framework of a detailed production procedure provided by the European Commission. In Italy there are 43 PDO and one PGI cheese and dairy products, making Italy the second world producer of PDO cheese.

AFIDOP safeguards the typical aspect and the use of the products' names, promoting their popularity and protecting the production keeping a watchful eye on quality.

Practically all Italian regions, traditions and types of cheese are part of AFIDOP: from fresh to mature cheeses, from uncooked to semi-cooked or cooked and smooth textured ones, from cheeses made with cow's milk to those made with sheep, buffalo and goat milk. This is so vastly different and so widely represented that it can deliver a message to the world of a quality that is second to no one.

In 2013, the designation of origin marks (PDO, PGI and TSG) represented a volume of 1,3 million tons, 32% of which were exported. Italy remains a world leader in the sector for number of certified products, with a total of 261 products registered in the EU register.

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out and about / UP FRONT

Back to (choc) school!

European producer of high-quality chocolate and cocoa products, Barry Callebaut, has opened a new, unique chocolate training centre in Dubai.

This is the first of its kind in the Middle East and the 17th worldwide.

The new CHOCOLATE ACADEMY centre in Dubai is to provide a wide range of workshops and demonstrations for chefs and culinary professionals as well as chocolate experts.

Set up the Barry Callebaut Group, the stateof –the-art facility will showcase the knowledge accumulated over more than 150 years by Barry Callebaut’s global gourmet chocolate brands Callebaut (Belgium), Cacao Barry (France) and Carma (Switzerland).

Through a wide range of seminars, demonstrations, theoretical courses and practical workshops, it is designed to inspire artisans and culinary professionals, including chocolatiers, pastry chefs, bakery and other chocolate experts.

The centre will also serve as a meeting place for chocolate professionals encouraging the exchange of technical expertise among each other.

Heading up the centre is French chef Philippe Marand. "We aim to empower all chocolate professionals in the region to create and express themselves beyond the technical barrier with this wonderful material which is chocolate,” he explains. “Chefs and confectioners hardly find an

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occasion or a place where they can further develop their skills, learn from experienced expert teachers and exchange new ideas among each other. Our new training centre for chocolate here in Dubai is such a place - a unique place where we are cultivating an atmosphere of curiosity, creativity and inspiration for both professionals and chocolate lovers.”

As well as chefs based in Dubai, the centre will offer courses and sessions from globally acclaimed pastry chefs, such as Chef Jean Michel Perruchon, Director of the prestigious Ecole Gastronomique Bellouet Consil in Paris.

About 38,000 professionals and artisans receive training at the CHOCOLATE ACADEMY centres around the world every year. Callebaut has been making chocolate in the heart of Belgium for more than a century and is still one of the rare chocolate makers to select, roast and grind cacao beans into its own secret and exclusive cocoa mass – the most important ingredient for chocolate couvertures.

March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / the eggs factor

Leading the

way from

Jordan A creative and inspiring chef who has made it his mission to put Middle Eastern cuisine on the international culinary map, Executive Chef Sudqi Naddaf oversees all kitchen operations for Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates. But what does he have in his fridge?

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the eggs factor / UP FRONT

C

hef Naddaf was the ďŹ rst Jordanian Executive Chef to lead the opening team of a ďŹ ve-star property in his home country and was responsible for setting up the kitchen operations for both Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea and Kempinski Hotel Aqaba. Prior to the opening of the Kempinski Hotel Amman, Chef Naddaf served as the Executive Chef at Kempinski Hotel Julai’a in Kuwait.

In fact, his impressive tenure at Kempinski led to his appointment as the regional champion for 'Kempinski The Spa Cuisine'.

He has years of valuable experience at various restaurants and hotels in Jordan and the GCC. In addition to Middle Eastern cuisine, which is his speciality, Chef Naddaf has trained in a variety of international culinary styles including sushi making and Italian cuisine. He has also worked at

restaurants specialising in classical French cuisine and his diverse culinary training has inuenced his palate and preparation techniques and led to a passion for creative experimentation and the creation of signature fusion dishes such as date sushi.

Chef Naddaf enjoys quite a bit of success in Jordan where he hosted an extremely popular callin cooking show - Baity - on which he dispensed cooking tips to thousands of regular viewers.

WHERE HE SHOPS

In my fridge‌

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rd In my store cupboa Foul medammas atoes Canned peeled tom Crisps and chips Kellogg's cereals Pancake mix Potatoes Onions Garlic Basmati rice i De Cecco spaghett Zattar Sumac

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FEATURES / product focus

The new black gold Of all things you might imagine emerging from thre Abu Dhasbi desert, caviar would likely be well down your list. However, Emirates AquaTech has set up a caviar farm at Mussafah - one of the world’s largest and most technologically advanced aquaculture farms.

A

ccording to MD Ahmed Al Dhaheri, last year Emirates AquaTech produced two tonnes of farmed caviar - an ecologically sustainable, low-impact alternative to wild caviar. And, he claims, the projected quantity foir this year is five tonnes.

The farm is capable of producing 35 metric tons of caviar and, thanks to advanced technology which replicates spring - the ideal caviar producing season - Emirates AquaTech can produce fresh caviar all year round. Importantly, the farm breeds

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sturgeon in an environmentally friendly and sustainable way, thus relieving pressure on Siberian sturgeon listed as ‘vulnerable’ by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

Last year, the first batch of fish fertilised and bred in the UAE hatched. “They are 100% Emirati,” Al Dhaheri says proudly, pointing out that they will reach the peak of their caviar producing during Expo 2020. “We run at optimum conditions 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year.

So it’s like spring every day for the fish,” says

Muhanad Abu Awad, the operations manager, explaining that the technology allows Emirates AquaTech to produce caviar sustainably on a monthly basis unlike other farms, which can only harvest caviar once a year.

And chefs are lining up for the product, led by Emirates Palace, Park Hyatt and the Kempinski and St Regis chains. According to Jean-Luc Morcellet, Executive Chef at the Palace Downtown Dubai, he became a regular client "because the quality is great and because it supports UAE growth”.

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product focus / FEATURES

He currently uses between 600-800gm a month although, will plans to extend it to the room service menu, this figure should rise.

As well as caviar (sold under the Yasa brand, the company is also marketing sturgeon meat - all males plus females after caviar extraction.

It is starting to appear on menus and there are also plans to use the bones, head and tail for fertiliser, with the skin going to local tannery Al Khaznah to be turned into leather. “Considering all these elements, we are wasting almost nothing when it comes to the fish,” Al Dhaheri exoplains, pointing out that 90% of the water used is recycled back into the farm, with the remaining 10% of discharged water having a

possible future use for hydrating vegetables, since it's rich in nutrients.

Ultimately, the plan is to breed enough sturgeon so that they can be released back into the wild to replenish endangered stocks.

With global expansion in mind, Al Dhaheri hopes that he will have established Emirates AquaTech as the pioneers of the market before the company’s ten year anniversary, based on its key strength of quality. Michéle Müller, Executive Chef at Hyatt Capital Gate, agrees: “YASA Caviar is good quality and good value for money. For me, the sustainable angle is very important. I strongly support substantiality and I am always explaining its importance to both my guests and team.”

“To mimic the fish’s natural environment, like an artery running through the farm, 3000 cubic meters of air is passed through the tanks every minute.”

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FEATURES / market focus

Wheat's the

matter?

You must have noticed it, both at work and with friends. More and more people are experimenting with gluten-free diets or announcing they have a gluten intolerance, despite not always being tested by physicians or having a proper diagnosis. How shouold chefs be reacting to this trend? We asked around the market.

G

luten intolerance isn’t a food allergy.

Instead, it’s a physical condition in the gut, broadly speaking caused by an irritated gut unable to fully digest the gluten proteins that are prevalent in wheat and other grains. It leads sufferers to experience the symptoms of malabsorption, including chronic fatigue, neurological disorders, nutrient deficiencies, anemia, nausea, skin rashes, depression and more.

However, if you remove gluten from the diet, the gut heals and the symptoms disappear.

For some people, it's even possible to slowly reintroduce properly prepared grains - such as long fermented sourdough or sprouted grains back into the diet.

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BECAUSE THE ISSUE IS SUCH AS HOT TOPIC, WE ASKED THE FOLLOWING CHEFS TO GIVE US THEIR VIEWS ON THE WHOLE AREA: * * * * * * * * * *

Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef Chef

Gilles Perrin, Executive Chef, Atlantis, The Palm.

Izu Ani, Head Chef, La Serre, Vida Downtown Dubai.

Paul Hayward, Resort Executive Pastry Chef, Madinat Jumeirah.

Elizabeth Stevenson, Chef Director at Lady Battenberg.

Rimon Shaboua, Sous Chef, Burjuman Arjaan by Rotana.

Marta Yanci, Chef/Patron, Marta's Kitchen.

Wolfgang Wagenleitner, Executive Pastry Chef, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray.

Vishal Khulbe, Executive Sous Chef, The Oberoi Dubai.

Cyrille Troesch, Executive Chef, Capital Club Dubai.

Thomas Pendarovski, Executive Chef, The St Regis Abu Dhabi.

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market focus / FEATURES

How much of an impact has gluten intolerance had on your menus and F&B operation?

Chef Gilles Perrin: Gluten intolerance and all sort of intolerances have grown significantly over the last 24 month. This pushes us to be much more vigilant than before. We solicit daily regarding intolerance. As a safety measure we do segregate all our products and have also a special set of equipment in any case.

Chef Izu Ani; We are aware of this intolerance and we do strive to cater to everyone’s needs. If we have prior warning we will adapt our recipes to suit them and can prepare special items like gluten-free bread, and gluten-free tarte flambée.

We can adapt without giving up the essence of the dish. Our Boulangerie of course is primarily bread, pastries and patisserie so is not geared towards gluten-free diners.

Chef Paul Hayward: We have not added gluten free items to our menus as the demand is very unpredictable - before Christmas it was very popular and now seems to have died down but we always have options available and even a full afternoon tea which seems to be very popular and is spreading by word of mouth. The main area has been to train the staff both in the front of the house and raise awareness as now it is even being check by DM and is classed as a Hazard in HACCP. Chef Elizabeth Stevenson: It's had a pretty big impact on how I approach the design of a dish now - if it's not absolutely necessary, I try to avoid incorporating ingredients with gluten. I'm at least very conscious of it. The tricky thing is that it's not just flour that I need to concern myself with - I'm finding gluten in chocolate and other every day ingredients. The stuff is pervasive and so it's not surprising that so many people are discovering they have an intolerance.

Chef Rimon Shaboua: We have certainly received requests from guests who are health conscience and do customise our dishes according to these requests, however we have not customised a strict gluten-free menu yet due to the low demand.

Chef Marta Yanci: We have noticed an increased demand for gluten free items over the past two years, so much so that we are constantly developing new gluten-free recipes for our clients.

Chef Wolfgang Wagenleitner: There was an increase in the last 12 to 18 months of gluten-free products, from an intolerance prospect as an diet prospect also.

Chef Vishal Khulbe: Every guest who comes to us with his/her preference of gluten-free meals gives us the opportunity to think out of the box and create some hing which is unique and at the same time satisfy guest need. So I would say it has a very positive impact on our team and allows to spend more time in creating which we some time lack because of our admin workload. For me every guest with gluten intolerance is a blessing.

Chef Cyrille Troesch: As a private business city club, we take great care knowing exactly our members' diet requirements. Gluten intolerance is part of it and very important, so we did create

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special menu items to cater for this category of member.

Chef Thomas Pendarovski: For us, this has been a big impact. We have designated a gluten-free corner for our guests – and it has been a success from the start.

How much detail do you include on your menus of the gluten status of dishes?

Perrin: Nowadays all our menu have remarks regarding nuts, shellfish, dairy and gluten. Even around our buffet we offer the opportunity for guests to speak to our chef regarding their intolerance.

Ani: We don’t have anything which indicates which dishes contain gluten on the actual menu. For me, I like the menu to look as clean as possible visually but our waiters and front of house staff are trained constantly on this and on which dishes to offer to guests who are gluten-intolerant.

Hayward: It does not however we have signs on the buffet saying if we needed we can prepare separately.

Stevenson: The guests should know. Including a 'G' for gluten or 'GF' for gluten-free can go a long way.

Shaboua: We do try to eliminate gluten when it is possible and when there is another ingredient that is healthier and caters to our food quality equally.

Yanci: We don’t specify it on every dish, just on those which have been prepared gluten-free specifically, like our gluten-free chocolate cake.

However, all our staff knows which dishes are gluten-free and we will specify it as requested.

Wagenleitner: We always highlight what dishes are gluten-free on the menu. Many dishes are glutenfree and this is always explained from the chef in charge, to the waiter and directly to the guest.

Khulbe: There are no such special marking on the dishes which indicates that a dish is gluten-free, but service and kitchen team are well informed and trained about these kind of intolerance. They have the expertise to suggest the alternatives or make the same dish with out gluten content. In past, a few guests have requested to have club sandwich, so we make the sandwich on a gluten free bread or we make thick Bengal gram flour pan cakes and use them as a bread for the sandwich. If we get to know about guest arrival in advance we make a special menu for them.

Troesch: All our dishes are marked with major allergy groups. Gluten-free is marked as GF, so members and guests are aware straight away.

Pendarovski: There is a lot of detail in all the products we do for our gluten-free corner. The team has created almost 12 items for the guest to choose from.

Is the incidence of gluten intolerance rising?

Can you say how quickly?

Perrin: Yes, it has raised drastically over the last 24/36 months.

Ani: It seems to be rising quickly and I do believe it is because of processed food. Most of the things we are eating we don’t know what is actually

inside of it. So when you eat too much of this food, your body starts to reject everything as it’s simply not used to all of the foreign bodies inside it. Our bread is made using organic yeast, flour, salt and water – that’s it. The taste comes from the quality of each of those ingredients and the care and technique which the bakers use when making the bread. There are no additives or e-numbers to prolong the shelf life.

Hayward: Last year I would have said 50% but this year so far it almost seems like it was a trend that is now passing!

Stevenson: From my experience, absolutely. I recently returned from a trip to Canada and I was amazed how many of my friends and family now have to avoid it. Also, you can find gluten-free products everywhere!

Shaboua: Yes it is rising but slowly when pointing out the guests staying with us.

Yanci: I am not sure the intolerance is rising, but there is clearly a trend towards a gluten-free diet.

I would think just a percentage of the number of people who are now following a gluten-free diet actually have a real intolerance.

Wagenleitner: I don’t remember a single bad incidence of gluten intolerance in Jumeirah Zabeel Saray and I've worked here for two years. Guests are aware of their intolerance and will mention at the beginning of their meal, it is important that our waiters/hosts get trust from the guests so they can enjoy their experience and feel comfortable and we don’t have any incidences. I would say that people are more cautious of this issue.

Khulbe: Not much - we get around one or two requests in a month.

Troesch: I think it is rising as 80% of the population have intolerance to gluten without even knowing it themselves! Of course there are different levels of intolerance, so someone can have an intolerance all his life and never found out, however this is a subject to take seriously as allergies tend to get stronger and stronger these days.

Pendarovski: I think these last ten years you see more and more guests who are gluten-free.

What percentage of diners have some form of gluten intolerance? Of those, how many express concern at extreme intolerance?

Perrin: I won’t be able to tell the percentage of dinner but what is sure we are taking very seriously any request. The last think you want is to harm your guests!

Ani: I would say around 2% and out of that 2% it is only around 0.5% who have an actual intolerance. A lot of it is more dietary than anything else, people are avoiding it rather than having a medical intolerance.

Hayward: 1% have gluten free intolerance and about 5% is a lifestyle choice and very few express extreme intolerance instead just say they cannot eat gluten products.

Stevenson: It's still a small percentage that is expressed from the guest side. Normally with an intolerance, you have a bit of lee-way and can treat yourself once in a while without dire

March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / market focus

consequences, so I would imagine many diners take this approach on a night out. It's still under 5%. Extreme intolerance was once rare, but these days less so. Normally, a guest with an extreme intolerance, celiac disease or food allergy will call or e-mail in advance to alert the staff and request menu options, to which we happily oblige. This happens fairly regularly. It's always good to have a heads up.

Shaboua: It would be 1-2% of guests staying with us.

Yanci: Possibly around a 15% -20% of our clients manifest some sort of intolerance to gluten, or a preference to have a gluten-free meal. We haven’t had any cases of extreme intolerance, although we have had them for other products, like shellfish.

Wagenleitner: The percentage is very small, I would say no more than 0.5-1% of our guests request gluten-free products. I would also say a maximum of one in two people are strict and emphasise an extreme intolerance.

Khulbe: Till now I have come across around 30 such guest (in two years) who had requested for glutenfree food, out of which around 25 preferred glutenfree meals and only five had extreme intolerance.

Many guests choose a gluten-free diet so they can balance their eating schedules and cycles.

Troesch: Only the really gluten-free intolerance level tend to express themselves, but you also have the people who don’t consume gluten as a part of personal diet like carbohydrate diet, red meat protein diet. Sometimes I think that general public wrong information could make the gluten as the food enemy number one when it is not at all.

Pendarovski: I would say, roughly 3% of our guests have some kind of gluten intolerance. From that number, I would say less than 1% of the 3 % have a major concern with gluten-free. The extreme ones, I take care of them personally.

Are you aware of the difference between gluten intolerance and celiac disease?

Perrin: We use 'gluten intolerance' when referring to the entire category of gluten issues: celiac disease, non-celiac gluten sensitivity and wheat allergy. Celiac disease is an inherited autoimmune disorder that affects the digestive process of the small intestine.

Ani: Gluten intolerance can develop over time and the effects are mainly discomfort or bloating. Celiac disease means you cannot break down the protein in flour, it is also something that sufferers are born with and the effects are far more serious.

Hayward: Yes, one is slight discomfort and the other is an internal rejection which their body cannot handle.

Stevenson: Yes. Celiac disease is serious stuff. Approach with caution.

Shaboua: Yes, the celiac disease is falls under the term gluten intolerance when generally pointing out the disorder. Celiac disease specifically affects one's digestion.

Yanci: Absolutely! In fact I have family members who have been diagnosed with celiac disease from early childhood. The consequences and systems

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are quite severe, slowing growth, affecting their character etc.

Wagenleitner: As the words say - one is a Intolerance, the other is a disease what is far more serious with lasting longterm effects. The symptoms are very similar and so it can be hard to tell the difference between the two without medical tests. Guests will usually advise if they have an intolerance or celiac disease.

Khulbe: There is a difference between both of them but it very hard to differentiate. Both are caused by the protein present in the grains but it very hard to say, because in both case gluten intake is not allowed. It's very hard for even doctors to find out if they have gluten intolerance or celiac disease.

Troesch: Yes, I am aware of the difference.

Unfortunately, gluten intolerance tends to include celiac disease and wheat allergy, gluten intolerance causes a stress response, celiac disease causes intestinal damage.

Pendarovski: Yes, I am very aware of the two.

“We are talking a health problem here for most of the cases and as a chef you have to respect and be sympathetic to any allergies or special diet whether it be health, cultural or personal taste.”

- Chef Cyrille Troesch Are you generally sympathetic to sufferers of gluten intolerance or do you feel at times that it is more a fad or matter of personal taste than an actual problem?

Perrin: As already said, we are taking very seriously all requests, even though some might be only of a personal taste. Even if all our guests are following a trend, we have to be extremely careful with all requests.

Ani: We try to be as sympathetic as possible. It’s not up to a restaurant to judge if somebody’s ailment is genuine or more of a preference. Our aim is to please our guests as much as possible whatever their requirement is.

Hayward: The first thing we try and ask with any allergy is that is this an allergy or a preference which can affect the amount of work greatly, such as someone who does not like eggs or cannot eat them!

Stevenson: Yes, totally sympathetic; perhaps for some it's a fad but for others it is a real problem.

I believe gluten intolerance is on the rise and as a pastry chef I have a responsibility to adapt to changing preferences and dietary concerns.

Shaboua: There might be individuals who would rather eliminate gluten entirely from their diet

as part of a health conscience culture, however others must be looked after and sympathised with as they face a serious disorder. Being part of one of the leading hospitality companies in the region, we carefully take our guests’ preferences and requests into consideration to make sure and avoid a catastrophic situation.

Yanci: We are sympathetic! When clients hire us for an event or visit our restaurant we want them to have the best time possible! We are happy to adapt to our clients' needs, be it an actual problem or just a matter of taste!

Wagenleitner: I believe that it is not very pleasant to have and intolerance from a physical nor mental status. Each person is different and has different effects/symptoms of the intolerance so therefore it is hard to say.

Khulbe: Any guest with a special request throws in a challenge and makes us go extra mile to satisfy his or her need, which is allow us to be more creative and explore the ingredients and techniques with different approach. I feel sorry for the guest who can not enjoy the goodness of the grains but it makes me feel satisfied if the dishes we make for them are enjoyed by them.

Troesch: We are talking a health problem here for most of the cases and as a chef you have to respect and be sympathetic to any allergies or special diet whether it be health, cultural or personal taste.

Pendarovski: Generally, I am very sympathetic but sometimes I think people really don’t understand what it is. I see a lot of our regular guests take items from the gluten-free corner, so I think that they get confused about what they can eat and what they can't eat.

How far do you go in reducing crosscontamination in the kitchen? How far do you think this is necessary?

Perrin: We have often guest requests, especially families who want to enjoy their time in Dubai and Atlantis, but are concerned about the intolerance of their children - some are very severe. We usually get in touch with them prior to their arrival here, source the product they request, work out a menu with them, meet them on arrival and, if needed, we assign a chef for their stay!

As you can see, we believe it is important to go the extra miles and make sure we avoid crosscontamination. We are going very far to make sure our guests enjoy their time in Atlantis and leave with a great impression.

Ani: When it comes to celiac and any other allergy, it is imperative not to have cross-contamination in the kitchen. Even with preparation taking place near gluten. We avoid this completely.

Hayward: From a pastry point we purchase everything made at a gluten free supermarket where the owner Katinka has worked with us to create a range of products for every occasion even birthdays, that comes in wrapped and boxed separately so we can just defrost and serve without worrying about the cross-contamination which is at the highest risk during production and baking. This has become a hazard in the kitchen

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and needs to be treated accordingly and processes have been put in place in our HACCP manuals.

Stevenson: So far this is an area still to be explored. Insofar as we keep the kitchen as clean as possible at all times, we do our best to avoid crosscontamination. But for a person with a severe intolerance or celiac disease even the smallest particle can and will cause a world of hurt, since once that protein is absorbed into the blood it triggers an immune response - whether it's a grain of flour or a piece of cake, the immune response is the same. We can't avoid this and cannot guarantee a gluten-free environment, so ultimately it becomes the guest's risk. I can see the future of kitchen design incorporating gluten-free production rooms in the same way that raw food prep areas are becoming more segregated from cooked food prep areas.

Shaboua: We treat this matter with the utmost care and make sure everybody in our kitchens are thoroughly trained about the strict regulations when handling food and are applied when buying the ingredients, refrigerating the food, preparing the dishes to serving them to our guests and these regulations are absolutely vital in every kitchen to avoid crosscontamination.

Yanci: Cross-contamination is a true and severe risk! Specially when it has to do with raw produce from animal origin.

With that we are extremely careful. With gluten ingredients we are also very careful, making sure our counters are disinfected and thoroughly cleaned after each preparation.

Wagenleitner: We are very careful with cross–contamination of gluten products.

There is no real way to eliminate 100% cross-contamination, however we do our best to ensure it.

Khulbe: It is very necessary to make sure all the ingredients and equipment should not have any kind of contact with grains.

Each piece of equipment is washed before using but, if that is not possible, physical separation is used in case of using the same oven, salamander or hot plate.

Troesch: General cross-contamination is always something to minimise however regarding gluten-free, the best way is to outsource the highest quality produce from a certified gluten-free operation.

Pendarovski: In our kitchen, we take this very seriously. Anything that is made for gluten-free guests is prepared separate from other items. In cases where we cannot get the right ingredients, we buy from a reputable gluten-free supplier who is certified.

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What level of knowledge do your serving staff have of the issues?

Perrin: It is a constant battle! We are training on a daily basis the service staff, but awareness has grown.

Ani: All of our staff have constant and ongoing training on how to deal with allergies and intolerances, we treat it very seriously as it is people’s lives at stake.

People are coming to enjoy themselves in La Serre, not put their lives at risk so it is a priority for us.

Hayward: This is a challenging area so we have told the servers any special requests on food to get their manager and they communicate directly with the chef in charge of that area to minimise any risks.

Stevenson: Honestly, there is a lot of work to do with regards to educating serving staff as well as chefs. Now though, gluten intolerance is affecting staff too, but - many chefs still don't know what gluten is. The fact is I am aware of gluten because I have an intolerance myself and so I understand first hand how annoying it is and also how to approach and deal with it after many years of practice. A successful restaurant makes staff education and training a priority so I don't believe it's difficult to get the message across - the challenge lies in creating an awareness around the subject and likewise adapting our behaviour towards it.

Shaboua: Our colleagues receive the required training to confidently prepare our dishes with the highest level of hygiene possible.

Yanci: I like to believe quite a good one!

Mostly because our chefs serve at the restaurant, so they know exactly how food has been prepared!

Wagenleitner: We are very careful with cross–contamination of gluten products.

There is no real way to eliminate 100% cross-contamination, however we do our best to ensure it.

Khulbe: They know very well once a guest lets them know that he or she is a gluten intolerance. They would check with kitchen team member or a senior chef about the dish before serving it to the guest.

Troesch: We have a system in place collecting preferences of all our customers, all our menus marked with main intolerance groups and training is given during menu presentation plus on our daily briefing reviews.

Pendarovski: I would say, a good deal of knowledge. If they don’t have the answers to something, they come to me or one of my senior chefs to get the right answers.

FEATURES / market focus

Disordered

eating With the industry's focus more usually on obesity and the rise of diabetes, it's easy to overlook the growing number of adolescents and teenagers in the UAE suffering eating disorders.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

M

ost of us, I'm afraid, weren't even aware that February was Eating Disorders Awareness Month.

That's a shame as a recent survey revealed that 1.8% of female respondents are anorexic and, more worryingly, that 75% of young Emiratis have body issues.

The problem is that, as obesity is becoming an increasing health problem globally and with the UAE considered to have one of the highest rates of obesity worldwide, it is quite easy to overlook the dangerous threat of eating disorders that are also on the rise here especially among adolescents and teens.

Eating disorders have the highest mortality rates of all mental illnesses and it is estimated that only one in ten sufferers seek treatment.

While women are more commonly affected by eating disorders, men can and do develop eating disorders as well. The number of sufferers in

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market focus / FEATURES

the UAE is unknown, but a survey done at Al Ain University in 2012 found that 1.8% of 900 girls questioned were anorexic. Another study conducted by university students in the UAE found that three quarters of young Emiratis have body issues and one in five needed clinical intervention.

Although chefs are not directly affected by these issues, except as they may come to light in their own families or friends, it's important for all F&B professionals to understand how distorted perceptions of food can damage people's lives. As Maria Abi Hanna, a dietitian specialising in eating disorders for The Right Bite Nutrition Centre, explains: “Eating disorders are real, complex and devastating conditions that can have serious consequences for health, productivity and relationships. They are not a fad, phase, or a lifestyle choice. Their physical warning signs include: rapid weight loss, loss of menstruation in girls, signs of damage due to induced vomiting such as calluses on knuckles and feeling cold most of the time.

Behavioural and psychological warning signs include: preoccupation with eating, food, body shape and weight, feeling anxious or ‘out of control’ around meal times, excessive exercise, unnecessary dieting, use of laxatives and obsessive rituals around food preparation and eating.”

There is no known way to prevent eating disorders, but early treatment may be the best way to keep the disorder from progressing.

Knowing the early signs and seeking treatment right away can help prevent both emotional and physical health complications as well as increase the likelihood of recovery. Although the age group most at risk for developing eating disorders is between 12 and 20, anyone can be affected as it can happen at any age.

KEY GUIDELINES * Creating a healthy environment for the growth of a child's self-esteem begins at home and is vital. It is important to encourage healthy eating habits, be positive role models and avoid dieting around children.

Family dining habits may also influence the relationships children develop with food and eating meals together gives parents an opportunity to teach children about healthy eating. * Don’t judge food. Avoid categorising foods as 'good/safe' versus 'bad/dangerous' and always emphasise leading a healthy lifestyle and eating a balanced and varied diet in moderation. * Criticise the culture that promotes unhealthy body image. Reinforce a healthy body image in children, whatever their shape or size and reassure them that body shapes can vary. Avoid joking about other people who are overweight or have a large frame. Stress on valuing people based on goals, accomplishments, talents and character. * Become a critical viewer of the media. Even though the media is not completely to blame, sometimes media images and messages about food and bodies are often distorted and may lead everyone, especially children as they are the most vulnerable, to think that the ideal of beauty is extreme thinness.

The average model thirty years ago was 8% thinner than the average woman; nowadays the average model is 23% thinner than the average woman! * Finally, if you think someone has an eating disorder, express your concerns in a caring manner and kindly but firmly encourage the person to seek trained professional help.

Right Bite dietitian Maria Abi Hanna, who specialises in these conditions.

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / step by step

Rethinking the classics Even the best chefs rely on prepared ingredients to deliver on quality and consistency. Elle & Vire's reputation is such that it has solid links with prestigious cooking schools such as Institut Paul Bocuse, Ecole Bellouet Conseil and Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona amongst others. Cluster Director of Kitchens for Al Bustan and Al Marooj Rotana, Chef Christophe Prud'homme, shows its use in two of his favourite recipes.

G

rowing up on the family farm in Normandy, Christophe Prud'homme had every intention of joining the business and studied at business school, before chance led him to take a basic culinary school course at age 22. His life took an entirely different course, that began with a shift to Paris to work in a Michelin 1-star restaurant and then on to the 2-star Lenotre where he honed his skills for two years.

After that, he moved to London for 12 years, working on and around Park Lane in prestigious hotels such as the Sheraton, Four Seasons and The Dorchester before gaining his ďŹ rst Executive Chef position at The Meridien. "Once you're

on that track," he recalls, "doors open and possibilities are there." That was true once again when he transferred to Dublin before taking his ďŹ rst non-European posting to Sharm Al Shaikh.

Next on his career path was Dubai, some six years ago. "I joined the Al Bustan Rotana as Executive Chef and I really enjoy it, it has great atmosphere." He has also taken responsibility for the Al Murooj Rotana and, in total, has some 150 chefs working for him.

He's passionate about quality and consistency.

"Those are central to any successful operation, as is the delivery of food to please guests." For example, he runs one of the largest banqueting

operations in Dubai, with a wedding party for 500 guests every couple of days on top of normal service in all the hotels' outlets. "Food is about taste," he insists.

That's why he is a consistent user of Elle & Vire products, such as the Advantage whipping cream used in the two recipes he shares here.

"It's a very renowed brand and that's important.

I may be French but I didn't automaticlaly choose a French company - no, it was critical that the company providing such a product was wellknown and had the highest standards. It delivers a consistent, quality product at any volume and makes my guests happy."

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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step by step / CHEFS

ELLE & VIRE Elle & Vire is active across all five continents and in over 120 countries.

thanks to our sustained innovation policy borne of expertise and the creativity of its

The brand is recognised and appreciated by the most exacting of

R&D teams.

consumers and chefs. Its international calling was cemented very early

* Industrial expertise that allows it to acquire the most rigorous of certifications –

on: in the 1960s, the co-operative was France’s leading exporter of dairy

IFS, ISO 22000, BRC – and to guarantee clients a consistently high level of quality

products. A desire to expand abroad was consolidated over the years and

throughout the year.

became one of the company’s key areas of activity.

* A UHT process that has been particularly well adapted to the constraints of export,

Today, this French brand offers a vast range of dairy products – cream,

allowing Elle & Vire Professionnel to be shipped around the world by boat.

butter, cheese and milk, UHT desserts – to both consumers and industry

Chef Prud'homme used the Elle & Vire Professional Advantage Whipping Cream which is

professionals. Elle & Vire has become one of the leading names in the world cream industry.

light (30% fat content). It may be used hot or cold. This cream is extremely stable and offers

To expand sales internationally and to be able to offer quality products across the globe,

excellent hold in a bain-marie. Ideal for buffets and catering, this cream offers fantastic value

Elle & Vire focuses on:

for money. The one litre carton is re-sealable thanks to an airtight cap for easier conservation

* Expertise in dairy – primarily from Normandy, but more generally France – a synonym

and more precise dosage.

for quality and haute cuisine. * Differentiated products developed specifically for the international marketplace,

For more information: www.pro.elle-et-vire.com/en

SEARED ARTICHOKE AND ASPARAGUS FRICASSE SERVES 4 SEARED VEGETABLES INGREDIENTS 100g artichokes, quartered 100g asparagus 20g pak choi 2 baby corn 8 spring onions 50g snow peas 50g oyster mushrooms thyme and to serve parmesan cheese, to serve1/2 tsp thyme leaves 1 tsp chive leaves, finely chopped sea salt and pepper to taste

CREAMY POTATO MOUSSELINE INGREDIENTS 50g butter 100g leeks, peeled and diced 50g onions, peeled and diced 150g potatoes, peeled and diced 300ml chicken stock 100ml Elle & Vire Advantage Whipping cream 30% salt and white pepper

∙ Season and reserve. ∙ To serve, place the mousseline in the bottom of the plate and top neatly with the vegetables then add finely grated parmesan and decorate with a sprig of thyme.

METHOD ∙ Blanch the snow peas and spring onions for a few seconds then refresh in iced water. ∙ Sautee vegetables over a high heat and season to taste, together withsome thyme.

METHOD ∙ Add butter to a large pan on low heat. Do not allow it to colour. ∙ Add the onion and leek and then cook carefully for a few minutes. Add the potatoes and cook for five more minutes, then add the chicken stock and cook until the potatoes are soft. ∙ Blend the mousseline and pass through a colander then return to the heat, add the cream and boil for a few minutes.

1 - Mise en place

2 - Blanching the snow peas and spring onions

3 - Sauteeing the vegetables

4 - Adding thyme

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

25

CHEFS / step by step

5 - Checking consistency of the mousseline

6 - Starting to plate up

7 - Arranging the vegetables

8 - The final dish

BEEF TOMATO LATTE SERVES: 4 TOMATO ESSENCE INGREDIENTS 1kg fresh crushed tomatoes 250g fresh crushed pear tomatoes 100g white onions, peeled and diced 50g leeks, peeled and diced 50g celery, diced 20g tomato paste 4l clear chicken stock 5g ground black pepper 2g fresh thyme 2g fresh basil 2g fresh parsley 20ml white vinegar METHOD ∙ Prepare the tomato essence one day in advance.

Add the chicken stock to the other ingredients and gently bring to a boil. ∙ Boil for two hours or until it has reduced to two litres. Allow to cool. ∙ The next day, clarify it.

CLARIFICATION Ingredients 20g leeks, finely chopped 20g celery, finely chopped 20g carrots, finely chopped 20g white onions, finely chopped 200g minced beef 100g fresh tomatoes, finely chiopped 200g egg white METHOD ∙ Mix all ingredients and leave to rest for two hours, then add the mix to the tomato essence and mix well. Bring to a gently heat, stirring to ensuring the egg white does not stick to the bottom of the pan.

When it boils, stop stirring and leave the clarification to absorb all impurities and you are left with a clear and golden consomme. Leave to cook for one hour. ∙ Make a whole in the centre of the clarification and pass the liquid through a cheesecloth. Season and reserve.

25g butter 100ml Elle & Vire Advantage cooking cream 100ml tomato sauce salt and white pepper METHOD

∙ Saute the shallots in the butter but without colouring, then add the tomato sauce, cream and milk. Let it cook for ten minutes on a low heat and then adjust the seasoning and pass through a colander. ∙ To serve, put consomme in a glass, mix the foam with a blender and add carefully on top of the consomme.

LAMB KEBAB INGREDIENTS 100g minced lamb 10g onion, chopped 2g fresh parsley, chopped salt and white pepper METHOD

TOMATO FOAM INGREDIENTS 25g shallots, finely chopped

∙ Mix all the ingredients and set around a bamboo stick.

∙ Grill and serve alongside the latte.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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step by step / CHEFS

1 - Mise en place

2 - Checking the seasoning

3 - Assembling the plate

4 - Gently pouring the consomme

5 - Adding the foam

6 - Remember to season

7 - The ďŹ nal dish

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

27

CHEFS / face to face

Cuba libre Executive Concept Chef for Asia de Cuba restaurants worldwide, Luis Pous has come a long way from his beginnings in Havana.

Although much is made of the time he cooked for Fidel Castro, he prefers to recall growing up on Cuban street food and big family-style Christmas dinners.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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face to face / CHEFS

C

hef Luis Pous started his impressive career training at the National School of Culinary Arts in Havana, where he cooked for numerous diplomats and foreign dignitaries. He moved to Miami in 1997.

Most recently he acted as Corporate Chef for the prestigious Noble House Hotels & Resorts, overseeing all culinary operations and playing a key role in all restaurant concepts.

Before that, he acted as the regional chef at Noble House’s Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, Ocean Key Resort, La Playa Beach & Golf Resort and Gateway Canyons, which followed a five year period as Executive Chef of one of South Florida's most sought after dining destinations: The Dining Room at Little Palm Island Resort & Spa. During his time there, the restaurant gained the number three ranking in the country in Zagat, number one in Florida for hotel restaurants and was named number two hotel restaurant in the country by Travel & Leisure Magazine.

Now, as Executive Concept Chef for Asia de Cuba restaurants worldwide, he's responsible for the developing menu. With another half dozen outlets in the planning stage, he was recently in Abu Dhabi for the opening of Asia de Cuba at The St Regis Abu Dhabi.

However, his first love remains Cuban food and he has his sights set on an authentic Cuban restaurant. Just as soon as he stops jetting around the world!

Asia de Cuba's brand cuisine is rooted in the Asian influence on Cuban food and culture from Havana's Chinatown, El Barrio Chino de la Habana, one of the oldest and largest in Latin America; by drawing on this cross-cultural influence, Asia de Cuba aims to create a style of food entirely of its own.

Celebrated dishes are Dumplings de enchilado de cangrejo, Cuban seafood stew, shrimp churros with coconut curry, cumin roasted lamb leg with maduros, yucca and black beans, amongst others.

Was food very important to you as a child?

I grew up in Havana and I was the first chef in the family. My father, Carlos Pous, was a well-known actor who got into satire and then was censored.

He became an engineer. My mother was a beauty queen at carnival. We used to enjoy really good home cooking, family style. When we'd go out to the country I used to be the cook - I started quite early. In Cubai then - in 1971 - you didn't really have chefs, cooking wasn't fashionable. We'd have cooks who ran small frying canteens, not Escoffier.

I grew up on street food and loved to eat so I got into the government run culinary school, after I'd not done well at taking orders during my three years at military school.

Was it hard to get in?

Well, they only took 30 students a year. At that time, hospitality was the first economy where you could earn dollars and no pesos, but I had a passion for food and di well there. After the first year, I was cooking for all the staff; after the second, gourmet

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meals for the government elite and officials. The path after that would have been to be the chef in one of the embassies in Havana but I got a job in a 5-star hotel and I was living my dream. I didn't want to leave.

But you did leave Cuba. How? Because of my girlfriend at the time. She father

The difference must have been strange.

I had been watching the Food Network in father's office but, basically, nobody knew I was leaving.

I went to Miami and found all these very fancy restaurants. Instead, I worked for a Catalan couple for a year in a small, funky tapas place. It took me that year to learn English and then I got a job in

Cumin Roasted Lamb

“90% of the menu here is the same as our main one, with some dishes adapted or created for the local palate. I do 80% of the dishes and my chefs add the other 20% - they have to own the food too. The customer's comfort zone is my starting point!” was a political refugee and he wanted her to join him in the US. If I married her, I'd have the chance but, whilst they got their visas, I had to wait for my name to come up on a lottery visa. It was very hard on my family - I was 27 and had never been outside the country.

Atlanta - line cook on meat at the Renaissance.

After that, I moved with the chef to Hotel Plaza Athenee New York, as Sous Chef. For someone from Hava, it was like a dream come true but after 9/11 the economy went bad and I decided to go back to Miami.

March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

Fluke Sashimi You ended up working on The Keys?

Yes, they're complicated but the Little Palm Island Resort was a great place to be and we made the restaurant very well known.

So why the shift to Asia de Cuba?

Cuban flavours and a chance to do a different type of cuisine that what I've been doing for the last two decades. I wanted a change. My deal with the owner is that if I open five more Asia de Cubas one coming in Dubai! - then I can open my own, fully Cuban place.

How would you define Cuban cuisine to someone who doesn't know it?

It's a mixture of French and Spanish cuisines but with African ingredients. So far, nobody has done a modern take on it. I don't believe, with Asia de Cuba, that anybody is putting out similar food at the same level. But Cuban food needs to be taken to a new level, still with its heritage at its heart and I just don't find Cuban chefs of my generation at the same level.

What sort of dish?

Something very delicate like a black bean puree with an avocado ceviche.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

Miso Glazed Black Cod What next for Asia de Cuba, apart from Dubai?

New York City is the dream but it's the toughest market. Opening in Asia, I think the reaction would beEx amazing. manum Maybe iam hocaede it's a crazy nihilic thought.

The types of food you like to eat?

Cuban, all Asian cuisines, Spanish, Mexican…

Really anything done with love. If the chef has no interest in the food, then I hate it. I also love Lebanese food and I always enjoy eating things I've never tried before.

Any problems opening here in the UAE? It was hard to find fish of the right quality at the beginning and some ingredients, like yucca. 90% of the menu here is the same as our main one, with some dishes adapted or created for the local palate. I do 80% of the dishes and my chefs add the other 20% - they have to own the food too.

The customer's comfort zone is my starting point!

And when you're not in the kitchen?

Golf. Snorkelling, Flying. Running.

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CHEFS / face to face

Making a scene 15 years ago, Simon Rimmer stood in the kitchen of his brand-new restaurant.

He had no culinary experience and just two cookery books. Since then, his career has thrived: two successful UK restaurants, four books, a TV career and a new outlet in Dubai's Pier 7. He puts it down to an "insatiable curiosity".

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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face to face / CHEFS

B

orn in Cheshire, Simon Rimmer originally studied fashion and textile design before taking over Greens, a vegetarian restaurant in West Didsbury, Manchester in 1990. Just two years later, The Guardian newspaper described Greens as one of the most exciting new restaurants in the UK. With no experience, how did he manage it? He points to a "somewhat obsessive" nature, which drove him not only to learn how to cook but also everything to do with the art and science of cookery. Turning up at wholesale markets at 5am, he'd quiz suppliers about ingredients, seasonal produce and flavours.

However, despite gaining an enviable reputation as a vegetarian chef, he was always a meat eater and in, 2006, he opened Earle, partly to be able to explore proteins. Successful cookbook writing and TV careers followed.

Why Dubai now?

I think this is my moment in the sun. Now it's time

to work hard. After all, I've hit a point where I'm 51 years old and maybe I only have so much shelf life left! Over the past few years, I've been approached four times about doing fine dining in hotels here but my style is far more casual and when I starting talking to the guys here at Pier 7, there seemed to be a real synergy.

have a good time.

What were you trying to achieve?

A gatropub feel but normally, back in the UK, those are aimed at 60-year olds and there's no fun and dull music. Instead we wanted something that was a kind of mix of pub, members' club and your granny's house - furniture that doesn't match, good design, funky food and belting music.

It's worked - we've had 2,000 customers since we opened.

Was there any family connection with F&B? As a family we were very positive about food. My dad's family is Italian from Lake Como and both my mum and grandmother were great cooks.

There was nothing unsual but large roast dinners, lasgane, apple pies.. Anyway, after trying a bit of FoH, I decided to open a restaurant with a friend of mine, Simon Connolly. We had no idea, we had no money but we thought it wouod be a good way to chat up girls...

What was your feeling about Dubai before this started?

Well, I know Gary and Atul so I had some idea. A place where people work hard but then want to

How did you get into F&B? Originally, I was a textile designer but I used to go out to bars and restaurants a lot and just loved the industry. There's a real buzz about and it's a very social environment.

If you were doing it now, you'd have a food truck, I guess.

Absolutely, but back then we found a run-down

“Back then, vegetarian food had a very worthy feel to it and I was a devout carnivore so I wanted to deliver food that I would want to eat.

Okay, maybe I went crazy for a bit but customers loved it.”

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

to all people from afternoon tea to Sunday lunch.

We pride ourselves in knowing our customers.

little place in a tough part of town, borrowed from the bank and bought it. Then, of course, you do the real business plan and we realised that we couldn't afford to hire a chef! So, we tossed a coin and decided we'd alternate month on month, front and back of house. I lost and ended up in the kitchen!

And never came out…

No, never did. Look, I didn't know how to cook but I'm pig-headed so I wanted to be good at it and just started haunting the vegetable market and reading cookery books. I wanted us to be seasonal with traceability and the idea worked. Back then, vegetarian food had a very worthy feel to it and I was a devout carnivore so I wanted to deliver food that I would want to eat. Okay, maybe I went crazy for a bit but customers loved it - a menu based on what was fresh that day in the market.

Desribe Greens back then…

28 covers, BYOB. I was working really hard - 5am

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

to midnight, six days a week and living on caffeine.

I lost two stone the first year! Anyway we got a real boost from The Guardian and I was working on making sure the food wasn't just for veggies you know, can you make a wine reduction sauce with vegetable stock? We were doing what I've called 'magpie cooking' - Italian, Asian, Thai, really anything with large favours and textures. Now we have 94 covers and a license, with maybe 70% of our customers being carnivores.

And after the initial success, what next?

Not so good. We opened another good but they were both gone within three years. In retrospect, we should have opened another Greens. Then in 1997, to promote the business, I got involved in TV on a small scale and after about seven years I was enjoying it so much that had to decide if it was going to be a career or a hobby. The thing, you become a brand and you need to stay true to that so I pulled back and opened Earle, a neighbourhood restaurant that I hope is all things

Do you think you made a mistake not capitaising on being 'the vegetarian chef' just as that whole movement was taking off?

Yeah, there was a point with BSE when, maybe.

What many people don't realise is that vegetarian cuisine is more labour intensive - you need more trained chefs than in a meat kitchen because everything needs prepping to some extent.

What are you seeing as the key trends for the year?

Health, of course. We'll see more quinoa and supper foods. The whole thing of multi-dish sharing tables is something that everyone seems to love. I see more pickling and fermentation. Things are changing too in the UK with how restaurants have to deal with allergies - new legislation will mean unlimited fines if menus aren't labelled properly. One thing I should say - I absolutely hate that 'V' for vegetarian symbol…

What's next for you?

I'm a control freak so when I not here, I'm on the phone two or three times a day. I need to get it right. After that, well we're considering a couple of other options in the Gulf and Asia could be interesting….

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CHEFS / face to face

The Italian job With more than a decade and a half of culinary experience, Chef Vladimiro Gadioli - Executive Chef, Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach - is passionate about creating menus that elevate cookery skills to new heights. He's currently developing his new 'Go Green' approach at the hotel based on such initiatives as the cost effective use of energy among others.

B

orn in Italy, Chef Vladimiro Gadioli grew up in Lombardy, in Borno, where his family built in 1978 a three star family managed hotel. Getting an early start he helped out with service whilst at school and then cooked with his mother while studying hotel management.

He began his career proper with apprenticeships in a number of Michelin star restaurants in Italy, including L’Abereta in Brescia, before also working in Switzerland and India. Following three years as Chef e Cuisine at the Hyatt Regency in Delhi, he relocated to the UAE in 2009 as Chef de Cuisine at Jumeirah Beach Hotel’s Carnevale and then, a year later, he was appointed as Consultant Executive Sous Chef at Cipriani Yacht Club in Yas Island.

In 2011, Chef Vladimiro joined Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach as Chef de Cuisine at Rococo, raised to Executive Sous Chef a year later and, last year, to Executive Chef.

one year's military service, I worked for the officers' dining room.

After training, did you go back to the family business?

Well, there was an expectation but the moment didn't feel right. I didn't want to take over something that had already been done. I want to have my own achievement. I think my family still blames me a bit, though I did tell them not to keep it open for me. Is it an insurance or a debit? I'm not sure. Instead, I went to L'Albereta - a 5-star resort in Franciacorta, on Lake Iseo in Brescia. I wanted experience away, something different from the local restaurants I knew. Then I spent four years in Milan at the NH Hotel where everything was on a different scale, which was both challenging and enjoyable.

Where did you grow up?

In a small apartment above the family business - a hotel in a small village near Borno that had been started by my grandparents. It's still going - just 30 rooms. It used to be really just a summer business based on really local food - my father had a passion for farming and I'd help my mother in the kitchen. In fact, from the age of five or six, I was helping serve at tables. Anyway, I went to hotel management school, thinking I could help the family business but I wasn't into the books and went practical instead.

And then?

Then an opportunity came up in India - the Hyatt in New Delhi. I thought about it and decided that if I didn't take the train, then maybe I never would. It was time for a change and so spent three years there as Head Chef for the hotel's Italian restaurant. The restaurant was good - we won the Times of India best Indian restaurant award.

I'm quite good at adjusting so I didn't find the new country too difficult once I'd worked on my English though Indian food is very different! I do like some flavours, though. Anyway, I got married and started to think seriously about the future for my family so we came to the place everyone was talking about - Dubai!

And you took to cooking?

We used to do one week studying and then one week at work and I was lucky enough to get experience at a very good place. I already had some skills from working at the hotel restaurant and I proved to be quite good at the practical. I think I picked up my mother's passion. Then, during my

What did you make of the place?

Really that reality is not always what you see.

Anyway, I started in Carnevale and that was very useful for me because I was learning more management, admin and so on, then after 16 months moved to the opening team at Cipriani as Executive Sous Chef. After that, to be honest,

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

I took a bit of a step back in my career coming to the Sofitel, where I've now been four years. Things have changed a lot in the hotel and I really enjoyed my time in Rococo, but it proved hard to bring up the level of business in the hotel, largely I guess because why would people expect Italian fine dining in a French hotel?

How has the change been taking over as Executive Chef?

A transition and you'll see the food evolve.

Innovation in Italian food is growing slowly but mainly the cuisine is about generous, nonfancy dishes. I didn't grow up in a fine dining environment and it was only my experience at school and college working short periods in good restaurants that taught me things like kitchen set-up and so on. What I want to do more and more in the hotel is focus on seasonal but it can be hard tio balance the cost against people's expectations. Local produce? I'd like to but it's quite hard to find and if it's not available then that's difficult.

What do you hope to achieve overall?

Something good and of the moment. I hope there's an excitement about the changes we're bringing in but it's more about evolution. I need to carry the team with me and I'm also working with the senior management team to carry them forward with us. One thing you will see more of is live stations because I think customers enjoy personalised service and it creates relationship. We'll also shift more to casual - real food and realistic pricing.

That makes sense given the competition you walk on the Walk.

Yes, so now Rococo has closed and you'll see the new Plantation this month with dishes based on the French marmite cooking pot - fish and lamb stews, slow cooking, real food.

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face to face / CHEFS

“Innovation in Italian food is growing slowly but mainly the cuisine is about generous, non-fancy dishes. I didn't grow up in a fine dining environment and it was only my experience at school and college working short periods in good restaurants that taught me things like kitchen set-up and so on.”

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

OCTOPUS AND PASSION AND TURMERIC DRESSING WITH MARINATED OCTOPUS, SALICONA AND RED BELL PEPPER SAUCE OCTOPUS INGREDIENTS: 1kg octopus, cut into pieces 2 bay leaves 3 garlic cloves 5g whole peppercorns salt

Catch As Head Chef of Catch in Abu Dhabi, Mauritian Roudy Petersen combines his love of French colonial food developed under Chef Michel de Matteis with classical skills developed first at le Paradis Hotel in Paris and other postings, including Gordon Ramsay’s Restaurant in The St Regis Doha, the 5-star Paradis Hotel and the Royal Palm Hotel - both in Mauritius- and an enviable line up of restaurants in Paris such as 3 Michelin star Guy Savoy Restaurant and Pierre Gagnaire Restaurant. He describes his cooking style as neoclassical French cuisine that can be compared to haute couture.

METHOD ∙ Rinse octopus well under cold water. Clean the sac making sure to get rid of any grit, then flip it over and look for the beak, which is the dark coloured, hard, crusty shell-like bit. Scoop it out with a paring knife and add to pot of water covering the octopus. ∙ When the water comes to a boil, lower the heat to a medium high and let it continue to cook for about forty minutes total, or until fork tender. ∙ Drain and let it cool. Cut it into bite-sized pieces. ∙ To assemble the dish, season the octopus with olive oil, salt, pepper and passion turmeric dressing. Add diced shallot, spring onion, coriander leaves and julienned red chilli to finish.

COULIS BELL PEPPER SAUCE INGREDIENTS: 400g large red bell peppers 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced 1 tbsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar salt and freshly ground white pepper METHOD

∙ Roast the red peppers directly over a gas flame or under the broiler, turning occasionally, until the peppers are blackened all over. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and let cool completely. Peel the peppers and discard the skins, seeds and cores. Coarsely chop the peppers. ∙ In a food processor, combine the peppers with the olive oil, shallot and vinegar and puree until very smooth. Season the coulis with salt and white pepper. ∙ The red pepper coulis can be refrigerated overnight.

Bring to room temperature before serving.

PASSION AND TURMERIC DRESSING 100ml passion coulis 1g tumeric powder 30 ml water 5g half red chilli 5g ginger 5g lemongrass 2 tbsp lime juice 50ml olive oil salt and pepper to taste METHOD ∙ Put all the ingredients into a small bowl and whisk together with a blender, Season with salt and pepper to taste.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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CHEFS / recipe corner

around 20 minutes.

∙ Mix the praliné, cocoa butter and Dulcey chocolate, melted together to 45/50C. Temper to 26°C.

∙ Add the roasted sesame seeds and then immediately pour into a 4mm thick ganache frame. Place an acetate sheet over the top and then roll out evenly. ∙ Leave to set at 17C. DULCEY GANACHE INGREDIENTS: 255ml whíppíng cream 35% fat 50g ínvert sugar 530g Dulcey chocolate 3Z% 15g cocoa butter 120g dry butter 84% METHOD

∙ Bring the cream to a boil with the sugar. Slowly pour

Royal Catering Executive Pastry Chef Chef Fabrice Meynet -'The Sugar Man' - is Royal Catering's master chocolatier and expert pastry maker, with experience as Executive Pastry Sous Chef at the 2 Michelin star Hotel Martinez in Cannes, as well as the Four Seasons in Cairo and Rocco Forte of Abu Dhabi. He was ranked within the top five pastry chefs in the European Championship of sugar and the Concour des Main D'or competition.

the boiling mixture onto the melted chocolate and cocoa powder. ∙ Mix using a rubber spatula to create a glossy and elastic core. Note: take care to preserve this texture throughout the process. ∙ As soon as the ganache reaches around 35C, add the diced butter and process. ∙ Use the ganache at a maximum of 27/28C. TO ASSEMBLE

∙ Mold ten delicieuses molds with some tempered Dulcey chocolate.

∙ Pipe 60g of soft caramel into the bottom of the delicieuses.

∙ Cut out ten 16x6cm inserts of Sesame praline. ∙ Make the Dulcey ganache and then add 80g to each delicieuses.

∙ Insert the bar of Sesame praline and then use a DULCEY DELICIEUSE

40g cocoa butter 415g fruity praline 66%

SERVES 10 METHOD SOFT CARAMEL INGREDIENTS: 160g caster sugar 265ml whipping cream 35% fat 105g glucose 45g Dulcey chocolate 3Z% 70g dry butter 84%

∙ Roast the sesame seeds in a fan oven at 150C for

piping bag with a very small opening to top up with ganache around the edges if necessary. ∙ Leave to set for 24 hours and then seal with some Dulcey chocolate, gently heating the surface with a heat gun to ensure it is completely sealed. Add a transfer with logo to decorate the base.

METHOD ∙ Heat the cream with the glucose. ∙ Make a dry caramel with the caster sugar. Stop cooking the caramel by adding the hot cream and glucose mixture, then heat again to 104C. ∙ Leave the caramel to cool to 80/85C, then make an emulsion with the chocolate. ∙ At 35C, add the tempered butter and process. ∙ When filling, ensure the temperature of the caramel filling does not exceed 30/31C. SESAME PRALINE INGREDIENTS : 90g golden sesame seeds 100g Dulcey chocolate 3Z%

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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CHEFS / recipe corner

Chef Neil Foster Executive Chef of Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Chef Neil Foster has over 25 years’ international culinary experience across Europe and the Middle East, now overseeing a portfolio of ten restaurants and bars and a team of 123 chefs at the hotel he joined in October 2012. After work in London, Ireland and Greece, he moved to Dubai in 2011 as Executive Sous Chef in the pre-opening team at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. This recipe features on the menu at Lalezar, his hotel's Turkish restaurant.

KUNAFEH - WARM CRISPY SHREDDED DOUGH WITH LAYER OF COTTAGE CHEESE, BUFFALO CREAM AND PISTACHIO KUNAFEH INGREDIENTS 250g kunafeh dough 120g unsalted cottage cheese 70g unsalted butter 50ml buffalo cream (or vanilla ice cream) 20g pistachio powder METHOD ∙ Melt the butter and let it cool. ∙ Marinate the shredded kunafeh dough - use fresh dough not frozen. ∙ Place one layer of dough into a nonstick pan, Strain the cheese and make sure no water or liquid has left then add the cheese on top of the layer of dough and repeat the process one more time. ∙ Compress the prepared kunafeh by using another pan which will help to create a nice round shape. ∙ Cook it on the flat top kitchen stove on medium heat till golden brown on both sides. ∙ When both sides have cooked and are crispy, take the pan off the heat and pour over as much sugar syrup as you wish.

SUGAR SYRUP INGREDIENTS 200g sugar 500ml water lemon juice METHOD

∙ Combine the sugar with water in a pot. ∙ Place the pot on medium heat and start simmering. ∙ When the syrup has boiled, add a few drops of lemon juice and simmer till reduced by 10% and has thickened. Set aside to cool.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

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recipe corner / CHEFS

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March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

Chef Russell Impiazzi After three years with Marco Pierre White, Chef Impiazzi was invited to join the team at Hyatt Regency Dubai before transferring to Wafi, where he rose to become Executive Chef. Now he is Culinary Director, Food and Beverage at Galeries Lafayette, Lafayette Gourmet. These are the dishes he recently prepared for the Canada Beef tasting at Lafayette Gourmet.

RIB EYE ‘CAP’ TARTAR WITH CAVIAR

METHOD

INGREDIENTS 150g rib eye cap trimmed as much as possible 25g sevruga caviar cornichons capers fresh horseradish crème fraiche shallots, finely chopped unwaxed lemon zest

∙ Season and sear the tenderloin on all sides, set aside

METHOD ∙ Hand dice the beef cap and mix together with the chopped cornichons, capers and shallots. ∙ Add the crème fraiche and finely grated horseradish then season well. ∙ Form the tartare into a quenelle, top with the caviar and, using a micro plane, add the lemon zest.

and allow to chill completely.

∙ Lay the crepes, overlapping each other, on top of rolled out cling film, then spread the duxelle evenly over the crepe. Place the chilled beef in the centre.

Using the edges of the cling film, cover the beef with the crepes and roll into a cylinder. ∙ Roll our the puff pastry to approx 1/2 cm high, place the beef on the edge and roll over until about 2cm overlapped, don’t forget to remove the cling film! The overlap should be underneath so you do not see it. Egg wash and place in the fridge to rest for half and hour. ∙ Cut the ceps into quarters and sauté with a sprig of fresh thyme, add the veal jus and finish with a knob of butter.

AAA STRIP LOIN WITH BRAISED SHORT RIB, BONE MARROW AND FOIE GRAS CROQUETTE

AAA TENDERLOIN ‘WELLINGTON’ ROASTED CEP JUS

BRAISED HERITAGE SHORT RIBS

INGREDIENTS 500g AAA prime beef tenderloin 200g wild mushroom duxelle 6 herb crepes puff pastry sheet ceps fresh thyme veal jus

INGREDIENTS 5kg ribs 2 bottles Lussory halal red ‘wine’ 2kg mire poix of celery, onions, garlic and carrots 1kg tomatoes, peeled fresh thyme fresh bay leaf 5lt veal stock

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

METHOD ∙ Using the classic braise technique, season and brown the ribs, remove from the pan and add the vegetables until well browned, then add the bones back and de-glaze with the Lussory. ∙ Add the veal stock, cover well and place in the oven for approximately seven hours. ∙ Once cooked and chilled, remove the meat from the bones and reduce the stock by more than half. ∙ Fine dice the meat and add the stock to taste.

BONE MARROW AND FOIE GRAS ‘CROQUETTE’ INGREDIENTS 2kg veal bones 200g fine veal mince fresh thyme 4 egg yolks 200g foie gras 1 tbsp raw honey panko bread crumbs METHOD ∙ Slice the bones in half and remove the bone marrow. Place the veal mince, egg yolks and bone marrow in a food processor and blend together until fully combined. Season and chill. ∙ Clean and marinate the foie gras with salt and pepper, place in vacuum and cook for two minutes, then place in ice water and fully chill.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui

Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui

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Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui

March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui

∙ When chilled, pass through a fine sieve and whip together with a spoon of the raw honey and form into small balls. Freeze. ∙ Using the bone marrow mix, form a ball and place the frozen foie gras balls in the middle – think Scotch egg style, the foie gras being the egg! Bread crumb the balls and deep fry until golden brown.

TO SERVE

∙ Season the strip loin well and sear on each side for approximately three minutes, then allow to rest before slicing into 1“ pieces. ∙ Serve next to a spoon of the braised short rib and top with the crispy bone marrow and foie gras ‘croquette’.

HERITAGE HANGER STEAK, SMOKED POTATOES, FRESH HORSERADISH INGREDIENTS 200g hanger steak, trimmed 1kg Maris Piper potatoes 100g butter 100ml cream veal jus fresh horseradish smoke mix (200g soaked wood chips and 200g rice)

Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

METHOD ∙ To prepare the potatoes, wrap in foil and bake until

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Ihiligni re, sus nos nistin eatiasperro qui fully cooked - about an hour.

∙ Prepare the smoke mix. Mix the wet wood chips with the rice and place on a foil base in a wok, add to the heat and cover to get a good smoke going. Place a rack over the smoke mix. ∙ Cut the potatoes in half and quickly remove the cover from the wok and place the potatoes on the rack, re-cover and leave to infuse for about half an hour to get a subtle smoke flavour. Remove the flesh from the potatoes and place through a mesh strainer, then continue like you would with a classic mashed potatoes, adding the butter and cream and whipping together. ∙ To serve, season and sear the beef on all sides, allowing two minutes on each side, then leave to rest for five minutes. ∙ Spoon the whipped potatoes and arrange the sliced beef on the top, grate the fresh horseradish over the top and serve.

BRAISED VEAL ‘OSSO BUCO’, CRISPY VEAL BACON, PARSNIPS INGREDIENTS 4 milk fed Quebec veal shins 800g mire poix of celery, onions, garlic and carrots fresh thyme fresh bay leaf tomatoes

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Lussory halal white ‘wine’ veal stock METHOD ∙ Season the veal shins and give a good colour on each side, remove and add the vegetables then add the veal back and deglaze with the Lussory. ∙ Top with white veal stock and allow to cook for four hours. ∙ Remove the veal and break into chunks. ∙ The bone marrow will have melted into the stock, so cook and reduce the stock by half, fine strain and season.

CRISPY VEAL BACON INGREDIENTS 200g milk fed Quebec veal bacon, sliced METHOD ∙ Place on parchment paper and bake until fully crispy, drain and finely chop.

PARSNIPS INGREDIENTS 100g parsnips, thinly sliced METHOD ∙ Pan dry and deep fry until crispy, drain on to kitchen paper and season.

TO SERVE ∙ Place the veal chunks in to the sauce and then spoon into small bowls, add the crispy veal bacon on top and finish with the crispy parsnip chips.

HERITAGE TOMAHAWK, SMOKED GARLIC CONFIT, TRUFFLE INFUSED ONION RINGS INGREDIENTS 1kg tomahawk steak 200g smoked garlic 200ml olive oil fresh thyme 2 white onions milk truffle salt METHOD ∙ Remove the garlic loves and infuse in warm olive oil for around two hours with the thyme. ∙ Thinly slice the onions into rings and soak in cold milk and quite a few drops of white truffle oil, for at least an hour, then drain and toss in flour and deep fry in hot oil until crispy. Season with the truffle salt. ∙ To serve, slice the beef into long slices then, using the bone as garnish, arrange on a large platter. Arrange the onion rings over the beef, remove the cooked garlic and lightly drizzle the smoked garlic oil over the beef.

March 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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LEISURE / last word

Food flight!

No tips, no meal breaks, no training issues, no vacations - are drones the answer to server issues? A technology company from Singapore believes so and already has its first customer.

I

t may be noisy and, at first, diners are almost certainly going to worry about accidents, but Infinium Robotics is ready to roll out an initiative to use drones to bring food and drinks from the kitchen to a holding area near customers’ tables in the restaurant chain Timbre by the end of this year.

Concerns have been raised about delivering plates of food and glasses to indidividual tables, given the possibility of accidents. However, despite Infinium Robotics' claims that it’s technically possible, Timbre will retain a human touch and the drones will deliver to strategic stations from which waiters will serve the food to diners. “There’s no chance at all you will hit anything,” according to Junyang Woon, CEO of Infinium Robotics.

Flying at a minimum of eight and a half feet, the

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The Pro Chef Middle East / March 2015

"Each drone can carry just over four pounds of food, although Infinium Robotics plans a model that will carry eight pounds." drones will have a range of between 30 and 60 foot, recharging when they return to the kitchen.

Using 'sense-and-avoid' technology, the drones won’t land if anything is in the way and are also equipped with sonar and an infrared sensor.

In the kitchen, a chef puts the order on the drone and then keys in the destination to which the drone automatically flies, with the waiter hitting a button to send it back again. Each drone can carry just over four pounds of food, although Infinium Robotics plans a model that will carry eight pounds.

The drone service is being pitched as a twice as a customer benefits, as freeing up waiters' time will allow them more time to interact with guests.

Woon is keen to stress that this is not a marketing gimmick. “If they let the robots do the job, they can concentrate on interacting with customers to bring about higher customer satisfaction and dining experience,” he says.

Already the company has had enquiries from ten countries including the US.

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ISSUE 37 MARCH 2015

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 37 MARCH 2015

GLUTEN - ARE YOU INTOLERANT? | WHEN FOOD BECOMES A PROBLEM | FROM CUBA TO THE CAPITAL