The Pro Chef Middle East - December Issue, 2014

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 34 DECEMBER 2014

THE FOODS OF TOMORROW | THE CHEFS OF TODAY | THE TASTES OF YESTERDAY

Contents

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UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

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EDITORIAL How much longer can we sustain our ever-increasing reliance on imported food products?

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ART Designed dishes and modern art came together at The Oberoi to make a fascinating mix.

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EDITORIAL BOARD Our industry colleagues who help guide The Pro Chef ME.

TRAVEL Where better for food lovers to travel to than Paris? Editor Dave Reeder shares top tips on how to get the best out of the city and reveals some of his favoiurite addresses.

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THE LAST WORD Imagine moving your entire business to the other side of the world? Just another day for Heston Blumenthal who has made a career of being unexpected and delivering the impossible.

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OUT AND ABOUT Exhibition time with both the Speciality Food Festival in Dubai and SIAL in Abu Dhabi. Plus we get an update on what Slow Food Dubai is up to and learn some of the secrets of the French cream industry.

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THE EGGS FACTOR Head Chef of BiCE, Fernando Galbiati, has worked worldwide cooking Italian food which he has loved with a passion since a young boy. But what’s in his fridge at home?

TRENDS What will we be cooking and eating next year and in the years to come? We round up some industry opinion.

KITCHEN SKILLS Recent winner of this magazine’s Meat Chef of the Year, Lij Heron is Chef de Cuisine of Lexington Grill at The Waldorf Astoria in Ras Al Khaimah. He shares some of his top steak tips with us.

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FACE TO FACE Executive Chef Olivier Chaleil from Sofitel the Palm, celebrity Chef Richard Sandoval and hef Sergio Vineis from Italy’s renowned restaurant Il Patio in Biella answer our questions this month.

RECIPE CORNER Recipes this month from Chef Wolfgang Puck, three top Italian chefs from Naples - Chef Salvadore Bianco, Chef Pasquale Palamaro and Chef Marianna Vitale - and Boncafé.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / editor’s letter

Even more food The regional food import bill is expected to rise to over $53b by 2020 with up to 90% reliance on imported products fostering longterm supply concerns. The figures come from the Economist Intelligence Unit and mark a dramatic increase from the import bill of $26b just a decade ago.

The danger with such a reliance on imports is the impact of price increases caused by poor harvests, political

CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER DOMINIC DE SOUSA

instability, supply chain interruptions and a non-agricultural landscape.

CEO NADEEM HOOD

The Economist Intelligence Unit’s 2014 Global Food Security Index, which ranks countries based on food

COO GINA O’HARA

affordability, availability, nutritional quality and safety, placed Kuwait in 28th place, leading the region with an overall 72.2% rating, followed by the UAE in 30th spot with a score of 70.9% and Saudi Arabia 32nd at 69.6%.

Although there is some regional planning for adverse future problems, such as significant government investment into farming projects outside the region, many are calling for more domestic initiatives, despite their large costs. For example, the Abu Dhabi farming industry is reportedly set to produce up to 38,000 tonnes of fruit and vegetables in the winter months while Qatar is similarly looking into sustainable agricultural development. However, the high cost of large-scale domestic agriculture initiatives has proved extremely challenging with Saudi Arabia, for example, reversing its experimental wheat production programme with plans to revert to an import model by 2016.

Currently, the UAE has the largest per capita consumption at 1,486kg per year, topping Oman at 1,095kg, Saudi Arabia at 872kg, Qatar with 852kg, Kuwait at 634kg and Bahrain with 453kg. The report suggests that over the next three years, food consumption in the region is expected to grow at CAGR of 3.1%.

Rising prices of imported food are set to have a serious impact on the F&B sector, with many outlets already reporting a steady deline in revenues due to customers cutting back on eating out, especially at the high end.

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 50 450 6745 GROUP DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL PAUL GODFREY EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR GROUP DIRECTOR OF SALES CAROL OWEN carol.owen@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 055 880 3817 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION JAMES THARIAN WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA DISTRIBUTION MANAGER RAJEESH NAIR SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY

Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2014 CPI, All rights reserved.

While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein.

Buying cheese from the United States for your culinary creations means much more than just great cheeses. It means a network of partners committed to your success. From the right specifications to innovative menu ideation, we are here every step of the way.

U.S. Cheese: Taste True Partnership

U.S. cheese is already available in your market. Check today with your local importer/distributor or contact USDEC for a list of local suppliers.

USDEC Middle East (AMFI) • Beirut • Email: amfime@cyberia.net.lb • Phone: 961-1-740378, 741223 The U.S. Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a free resource to help you find additional information on U.S. cheese applications and distribution channels. We are a non-profit, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of U.S. dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders.

UP FRONT / editorial board

Meet the board The Pro Chef Middle East is keen to serve its readership by addressing those areas of key interest, To help that task, we have invited a number of respected and experienced members of the F&B world to form an editorial board to help guide us into the future.

BOBBY KRISHNA TM PRINCIPAL FOOD STUDIES AND SURVEYS OFFICER FOOD CONTROL DEPARTMENT DUBAI MUNICIPALITY Indian-born Bobby Krishna brings a real passion to his job enforcing food hygiene and safety regulations to the F&B sector in Dubai.

MARC GICQUEL Regional Director of Food & Beverage, Arabian Peninsula Hilton Worldwide Born and educated in France, Marc Gicguel has wide experience of different parts of the F&B sector, from Disneyland Resort Paris to Jumeirah Restaurants and Nestle Professional before joining Hilton Worldwide.

CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER Corporate Director Culinary Jumeirah Group Austrian-born Christian Gradnitzer moved a couple of years back from kitchens to management and is now a key element in Jumeirah RnB’s plan to establish Jumeirah Group as a leading operator of successful restaurants and bars globally.

MICHAEL KITTS Director of Culinary Arts and Executive Chef The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management UK chef Michael Kitts’ career has combined distinguished work in kitchens, global competition success and a major focus on mentoring younger chefs, all of which make his currenty job an ideal fit.

UWE MICHEEL Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek President, Emirates Culinary Guild German chef Uwe Micheel is a highly visible member of the regional F&B scene with two decades of experience in the Gulf and a key role in driving the success of UAE-based chefs at culinary competitions worldwide.

MARK PATTEN Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Atlantis, The Palm Dubai In place at Atlantis since pre-opening in 2007, Australian native Mark Patten has had a highly successful and celebrated career across the world. He now oversees more than 400 chefs and numerous outlets at the resort.

SAMANTHA WOOD FooDiva A distinguished ex-Hilton PR executive, British-Cypriot Samantha Wood now combines food journalism, hospitality consulting and the highly acclaimed FooDiva food blog.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

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UP FRONT / out and about

Growing food market The Dubai World Trade Centre's annual trio of niche food shows - The Speciality Food Festival, SEAFEX and Sweets & Snacks Middle East - ended with exceptional exhibitor and visitor attendance from across the region and around the globe.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

The food shows covered everything from gourmet products and ingredients, fresh and frozen fish, molluscs and crustaceans, to confectionary, biscuits, bakery goods, chocolates and crisps.

In total, more than 13,000 visitors attended the shows to source, trade and network with more than 550 exhibitors from 57 countries. Having grown 200% since its 2010 debut, The Specialty Food Festival 2014 - a specialist platform for producers, suppliers, importers and exporters of gourmet, halal and organic products - welcomed its largest participation of national pavilions including Argentina, newcomers Korea, Taiwan and Belgium, as well as a stable of Europe's traditional fine food countries such as France, the UK, Spain, Portugal and Italy.

"The November food shows' largest outings to date have proven tremendously successful," said Trixie LohMirmand, Senior Vice-President, Exhibitions & Events Management, DWTC. "As tailored, specialist platforms, the niche food shows act as springboards for regional and international suppliers to showcase innovative new products which savvy buyers can source to establish firstin-market propositions in their respective home territories."

With so many international companies lining up at the show, it was an Emirati barista who stole the limelight. Lining up against more than 40 regional

and internationally-experienced baristas in a series of skill-based brewing, pouring and creativity competitions, Osama Balshalat won the Latte Art Competition at the inaugural Speciality Coffee Challenge and also finished sixth in the hotlycontested Espresso and Cappuccino Competition.

Specialist seafood platform, SEAFEX 2014 featured more than 115 exhibitors from 28 countries and boasted an array of on-site features to facilitate enhanced ROI opportunities. The event's dedicated Hosted Buyer Programme was bigger than ever, with scores of influential purchasers coming to Dubai from Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, Iran, Kenya, Nigeria, Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria. "This was our first time participating at SEAFEX and our two Chilean companies promoted a range of fresh salmon and seafood products," said Carlos Salas, Trade Commissioner, ProChile.

With Gulfood Manufacturing, the new region's biggest-ever trade show launched GULFOOD Manufacturing dedicated to ingredients, processing and packaging equipment co-located with the existing three shows, the French presence, renowned for its expertise, quality of products and equipment was highly expected. 50 French companies were spread over three French Pavilions.

In the UAE, French exports of F&B products increased by 95% between 2009 and 2013.

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UP FRONT / out and about

Larger than ever SIAL Middle East, the largest gathering of agri-food professionals in the Middle East, ran recently at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibitions Centre, with more than 800 exhibitors from 52 countries for the 5th SIAL Middle East exhibition.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

This year, the Middle East and North Africa show strengthened its position as leader in the market with 20,000 visitors from 80 countries, building on last year’s increase of visitor numbers up by 37%.

Even prior to the opening of the exhibition, 2,200 meetings were scheduled with 508 buyers from the sector.

"In a booming market, SIAL Middle East offers a meeting platform for all agrifood stakeholders and a gateway to the United Arab Emirates, second market in the Golf Cooperation Council after Saudi Arabia. Due to the difficult climate and limited water supplies, the UAE imports some 90% of the food and raw materials needed. All these factors make SIAL Middle East a key commercial hub for the whole region," said Nicolas Trentesaux, SIAL Group Director.

In addition, there were 25 pavilions and more than 650 chefs competing at La Cuisine by SIAL, organised by The Emirates Culinary Guild of Abu Dhabi, in Best Cuisinier, Best Pastry Chef, Best Artist and Best Arab National Chef awards.

SIAL Innovation displayed the 50 most innovative products selected by a panel of experts with the winning SIAL Innovation product due to take price of place at all the SIAL exhibitions worldwide.

World Tour by SIAL aimed, in partnership with 28 journalists, to analyse consumer and retail trends in 28 countries across the world. The Etihad Sourcing

Zone, held in partnership with Etihad Airways, hosted meetings of exhibitors and visitors in a dedicated area to identify business opportunities with the region's leading commercial airline provider.

On Board Catering was an Airline VIP Lounge open exclusively to visitors involved in the airline industry, most of whom registered for the Hosted Buyer programme.

Finally, Healthy & Organic, created in partnership with the Abu Dhabi Food Control Authority and Health Authority, provided an area especially for organic and healthy products both from local farms and from international supermarket shelves.

Of particular interest, Native American Indian and Alaska Native food products were on show for the first time. Tribe members from Inupiat Eskimo Village, Sault Ste Marie Tribe of Chippewa Indians and the Fond du lac Band of Superior Chippewa tribe showcased wild Alaskan salmon and seafood, herbal tea, natural health products, wild rice and pure maple syrup during, still harvested the same way they were a 1,000 years ago. Also shared was Chaga Mushroom Tea. Renowned for its truly unique certified organic and wild harvested ingredients, the tea has been a staple in the American Indian diet for hundreds of years.

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out and about / UP FRONT

Creme de la creme Against the background of a 13% rise in imports of French cream in the UAE over the last year, CNIEL, the French Dairy Association, hosted a French Cream Workshop in Dubai.

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CNIEL, the French Dairy Interbranch Organization), is the umbrella body for the dairy industry in France, founded by the country's milk producers and processors. It aims to meet two key objectives; to facilitate relations between dairy producers and processors and to promote a positive image of the country’s milk and dairy products.

The recent Crème de la Crème workshop saw cooking demonstration by two French chefs: Chef Ludovic Audaux (The Westin Mina Seyahi Dubai) and French Chef Valentin Neraudeau, who demonstrated different ways of cooking with dairy products and revealed some of the secrets behind the popularity of French pastries.

Cream, in all of its forms, is one of the key ingredients in French cuisine, bringing flavour and a soft consistency to dishes and accompanying sauces. With a more intense aroma, French creams add value to pastry making, and produce greater and firmer volume than others when whipped.

"The latest trade figures show that importation of French cream soared by 13% in value in the United Arab Emirates last year," reveals Spotti.

French cream is also pure white in colour, compared to milkier-coloured rivals, making its UHT whipping cream and crème fraiche (soured double cream) perfect for white-coloured desserts such as mousse and ice-cream. Low-fat French cream has also been developed for soups and

sauces, adapting to modern dietary trends for 'lighter' cuisine - although cream is, in fact, the least fatty and calorific of all fats. Cream, whether single or double, contains two to three times less fat than oil or butter.

A booklet, which covers an intensive understanding of French creams, is being distributed to chefs and cooking schools across the UAE. It includes useful facts as well as detailed information about the French cream products.

The latest trends of the culinary world will also be reflected in the booklet thanks to exclusive recipes from top French pastry chefs.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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UP FRONT / out and about

Farmers Market produce

Slow Food picks up speed It’s been a busy couple of months for the newly formed Slow Food Dubai, the local chapter of Slow Food International, which is a non-profit, member-supported international organisation founded in 1989, to counteract the culture of fast food. It is entirely organised and run by volunteers, drawing talent, expertise and ambition from members and friends around the city. Members recently attended the five day global meeting Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre in Italy, discovered the agricultural riches of RAK and launched the Snail of Approval.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

Now the winter months are with us, local produce is back and every Friday at the Farmers Market on the Terrace you’ll find chefs, food lovers and Slow Food members chatting to local farmers, buying fresh out of the ground local produce and sharing experiences.

Slow Food supports the preservation of local food traditions, reviving people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world - helping diners make informed choices on the food they eat. It does this in a number of ways from giving kids a chance to grow, cook and eat their own vegetables, to encouraging food business owners to source from local and regional farms and promoting those producers and establishments to diners.

One key legacy from the work of Slow Food globally is the so-called Ark of Taste which travels the world collecting small-scale quality productions that belong to the cultures, history and traditions of the entire planet: an extraordinary heritage of fruits, vegetables, animal breeds, cheeses, breads, sweets and cured meats, now numbering over 2,020 items.

It was created to point out the existence of these products, draw attention to the risk of their extinction within a few generations, invite everyone to take action to help protect them. In

New submissions to the Ark of Taste

More new submissions at Terra Madre 2014

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UP FRONT / out and about

Mohammed Abdullah Al Shehhi walking in with the UAE flag as each country is called

some cases this might be by buying and consuming them, in some by telling their story and supporting their producers, and in others, such as the case of endangered wild species, this might mean eating less or none of them in order to preserve them and favor their reproduction. So, for example, there are nine entries from Egypt in the Ark from the Egyptian honeybee to Oasis rice.

Part of the on-going work of Slow Food Dubai will be to identify such foods at risk in the region and recommend them for the Ark. Recently a number of members travelled to Ras Al Khaimah with IGRAB, a group of Emiratis who want to share the real culture of the UAE with expats and tourists alike, who toured them around farms and showed traditional cooking methods.

Finally, the launch of the Snail of Approval programme will provide restaurants a way of demonstrating that they align themselves with the Slow Food movement, which will show residents and tourists to Dubai which businesses are maintaining good, clean and fair standards, to the best of their ability. The hope is for the Snail of Approval to be a catalyst for improvement, in that some businesses may increase sustainable practices and the use of local and seasonal products, in the hope to qualify for the award.

So, for instance, quality is fundamental and food must be good for us and not just taste good.

Quality includes the freshness and wholesomeness

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

Produce from Green Maidaq farm

Hosts discussing where they will visit first

Sfaa - the flat bread from RAK

Terraces with wheat and other vegetables growing in RAK

of ingredients, the care and craft with which they are handled and the quality of life of consumers, producers and their neighbours. Authenticity is attributed to food that is true to its source and terroir. The food must come from, and contribute to, ecological and cultural systems that are good, clean and fair.

However, a Snail of Approval is not a guarantee that a restaurant or shop is ‘Slow’, simply that Slow Food members think the recipient is making a real contribution to the kind of food system they believe in and that their effort is worthy of support and recognition.

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UP FRONT / eggs factor

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

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eggs factor / UP FRONT

Eating for Italy Head Chef of BiCE, Fernando Galbiati, has worked worldwide cooking Italian food which he has loved with a passion since a young boy. But what’s in his fridge at home?

F

ernando Galbiati, Head Chef of BiCE was born in Milan, where his career path began with watching his mother cooking to family and friends.

He cooks with style and passion, while being dedicated to his craft and focusing on using the freshest and best regional ingredients.

Fernando holds a Diploma of Chef Patron from Collegio Ballerini in Seregno Milan and has a vast experience working in celebrity restaurants in Milan, London, Atlanta and Dubai. His creations include Tomato maltagliati pasta, Saffron risotto with taleggio, Rigatoni alla norma and Passion fruit semifredo.

He describes his cuisine as simple and authentic and his favourite ingredient is basil.

WHAT’S IN MY FRIDGE? t "QQMFT t #VUUFS t 0SBOHF NBSNBMBEF t 1JUUFE PMJWFT t 1FTUP t 1BSNFTBO DIFFTF t #VGGBMP NP[[BSFMMB t $IFSSZ UPNBUPFT t 4BMBNJ t (BSMJD t #BTJM t (FMBUP t )B[FMOVUT GSPN *UBMZ

“I buy my fresh products from the local markets for quality and the Italian products from Eataly in Dubai Mall.�

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December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / trends

The end of the year is always a good time to take stock, look ahead and make some predictions, so why should we be any different? We solicited the thoughts of just shy of a dozen top chefs around town and asked them their thoughts. Do you agree?

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

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trends / FEATURES

W

ill 2015 be the breakthrough year for ‘real’ Latino cuisine or will Emirati cuisine really start to dominate the conversation? Has ďŹ ne dining peaked and we’re looking at a future of ever more thinly sliced divisions between casual, semi casual and ďŹ ne casual? What impact will food trucks have on bricks and mortar establishments? Will food safety ďŹ nally no longer be an issue? Will service and training problems vanish? Will regional sustainable food begin to be available in sufďŹ cient quantities to risk an F&B operation on?

We expected answers to these and other pressing questions when we asked the following chefs to give us their thoughts about the year ahead: t $ISJTUJBO (SBEOJU[FS $VMJOBSZ %JSFDUPS +VNFJSBI (SPVQ t 5BSFL .PVSJFTT &YFDVUJWF $IFG 'VKBJSBI 3PUBOB 3FTPSU 4QB t 4DPUU 4UPLFT )FBE $IFG 3JWJOHUPO (SJMM t 3PTBMJOE 1BSTL )FBE $IFG 1JFSDIJD "M 2BTS t #FO 5PCCJUU )FBE $IFG 5IF *WZ %VCBJ t $MBVEJP .FMJT $IFG 1BUSPO "MUB #BEJB +VNFJSBI &NJSBUFT 5PXFST BOE &YFDVUJWF *UBMJBO $IFG +VNFJSBI (SPVQ t $ISJT -FTUFS (SPVQ &YFDVUJWF $IFG +VNFJSBI (SPVQ t 1BVM )BZXBSE 3FTPSU &YFDVUJWF 1BTUSZ $IFG .BEJOBU +VNFJSBI t .BSUB :BODJ 'PVOEFS .BSUB T ,JUDIFO t %BSSFO 7FMWJDL )FBE $IFG UBCMF CZ %BSSFO 7FMWJDL )JMUPO %VCBJ %FJSB $SFFL t 4UFQIBOF #VDIIPM[FS &YFDVUWF $IFG .JOB 4FZBIJ $PNQMFY What do you see as the key F&B trends for 2015? Locally and globally?

Christian Gradnitzer: -PDBMMZ * UIJOL JUhT HPJOH UP CF BCPVU TUBCJMJTJOH BOE TFUUJOH FYJTUJOH DPODFQUT ďŹ nding consistency and focus. With regard to new concepts, focus will lie with the casual dining sector. The food truck wave will hit Dubai BMMPXJOH nFYJCJMJUZ PG HPPE TJNQMF PGGFSJOHT (MPCBMMZ UIF TVTUBJOBCMF TVQFS GPPE USFOE XJMM HSPX * CFMJFWF JU XJMM CF UIF ZFBS PG TJNQMF TUSFFU food and ethical concepts.

Tarek Mouriess: More organic food items, open show kitchens, adult food adjusted for kids’ menus, serving not just prime cuts on the menu for any kind of meat, seeing Emirati food items served in our daily restaurant, focusing more on breakfast, back to the old days when the chef and the waiter cooked for the guest, freshly made desserts, back-to-mother recipesand home cooking!

Scott Stokes: * CFMJFWF UIF DBTVBM DPODFQU EJOJOH will continue to grow. People are so busy with their lives they have less and less time so want TPNFUIJOH RVJDL BOE FBTZ *hN OPU UBMLJOH BCPVU fast food here, but good quality honest food cooked well and served quickly.

3PTBMJOE 1BSTL .PSF DBTVBM EJOJOH XJUI GSFTI BOE

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light food using good quality produce, not just burgers and sandwiches on offer.

Ben Tobbitt: " GPDVT PO WBMVF GPS NPOFZ XIJMF still using the best ingredients.

Claudio Melis 'BSN UP QMBUF NFOVT UIFSF needs to be much more focus on seasonal, OBUVSBM JOHSFEJFOUT JO UIF 6"& VTJOH MPDBM QSPEVDF 3FTUBVSBOUT BT B GVMM FYQFSJFODF XJUI GPDVT OPU POMZ PO UIF GPPE * BMTP TFF UIF SJTF PG premium casual - gourmet food in a very casual surroundings - as a major trend for 2015.

Chris Lester: We’ve rediscovered oysters. #BZT JOMFUT BOE UJEBM CBTJOT BSF CFJOH EFUPYFE so farmers are reseeding old oyster beds and discovering new ones. Ugly root vegetables such as celery root, parsnips and kohl rabi are grabbing attention in restaurant kitchens.

Health-focused consumers are still looking for healthy food on menus with new products being offered commercially like vegetable yogurt with interesting avours such as butternut squash, beet, carrot, tomato yogurt and kimchee yogurt.

Paul Hayward: 4VTUBJOBCJMJUZ NPSF VTF PG MPDBM products, green globe=reduce/reuse and recycle, more natural products and increased gluten free.

Marta Yanci: -PDBMMZ * UIJOL UIF ' # TFDUPS JT SBQJEMZ FYQBOEJOH QBSUJDVMBSMZ UP DBUFS GPS UIF big upcoming projects and the tourism targets set for the future. The tendency seems to be to continue opening ďŹ ve-star restaurants that look to captivate the customer with glitzy decoration and the attendance of world-class celebrities.

Unfortunately, this puts food on a second row BOE JU JT B TIBNF * UIJOL UIF UPQ UJFS SFTUBVSBOU sector is becoming saturated with continuous PQFOJOHT PG MVYVSZ SFTUBVSBOUT BOE UIJT XJMM CF a challenge to their owners, because it targets a WFSZ MJNJUFE DVTUPNFS CBTF 0O UIF PUIFS IBOE * BN B mSN CFMJFWFS UIBU UIF 6"& SFTJEFOU BDUVBMMZ treasures a more subtle type of restaurant where food is the highlight of the offering and where they can engage in a culinary dialogue with the DIFG *O NZ FYQFSJFODF XJUI .BSUBhT 8PSLTIPQ customers are so thankful when they receive honest food, cooked with passion and respecting JUT JOHSFEJFOUT * TFF B USFNFOEPVT PQQPSUVOJUZ for local restaurant concepts, made to respond to

an ever-growing demand for good value, honest GPPE * CFMJFWF UIJT XJMM CF B USFOE JO BOE CFZPOE (MPCBMMZ * UIJOL UIFSF JT B WFSZ JOUFSFTUJOH trend for F&B to reduce the distance between the chef and the customer, making the relationship more direct and honest. Meaning that, in the past, chefs used to distance themselves from the public BOE * UIJOL UIJT JT TMPXMZ FOEJOH * SFDFOUMZ TBX B video of celebrity chef Daniel Boulud offering a three-star Michelin dinner to elementary school LJET JO PSEFS UP BQQFBS NPSF BQQSPBDIBCMF * BMTP visited some of the best restaurants in Europe and saw how each guest is now personally welcomed CZ UIF DIFG BOE JO IJT LJUDIFO * TFF UIJT BT B HSFBU trend that will continue to grow because, in the end, a restaurant has to be a place where the guest feels at home and where the chef proposes a culinary journey.

Darren Velvick: 4IBSJOH NFOVT BSF SFBMMZ QPQVMBS and people really enjoy this casual approach.

Stephane Buchholzer: Naturality, simplicity, simplicity, quality and tasty food that is affordable in a urban laid back environment.

Which ingredients do you want to see more frequently on menus?

Gradnitzer: Honest, seasonal ingredients, fresh fruits and locally grown products. Dubai as it stands imports the majority of their products so this seasonal focus is missing from many kitchens.

Mouriess: Local cuisine, fresh local ďŹ sh with no harm to the environment, use of herbs, different oils and herbs, food combos like a sandwich and salad or pasta and salad.

Stokes: * XPVME MJLF UP TFF B NPSF EJWFSTF SBOHF PG JOHSFEJFOUT VTFE :PV DBO HP UP B OVNCFS of restaurants across Dubai and see the same JOHSFEJFOUT VTFE FWFSZXIFSF " MPU NPSF MPDBMMZ grown produce should be used for sure.

Parsk: More organic products.

Tobbitt: 4FBTPOBM JOHSFEJFOUT UIF MBDL PG seasonality is a major problem we have in the 6"& Melis: Overall, more seasonal vegetables such as artichokes, white and green asparagus, selected salads. More of the lesser used ďŹ sh like mackerel or sardines - less tuna! More game in autumn and

“I recently saw a video of celebrity chef Daniel Boulud offering a three-star Michelin dinner to elementary school kids in order to appear more approachable. I also visited some of the best restaurants in Europe and saw how each guest is now personally welcomed by the chef and in his kitchen. “ - Chef Marta Yanci December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / trends

meats like pigeon, poulet de Bresse and offal.

Lesser used cuts of meat like ribs and shoulders beef steak and tenderloin are the most popular but less interesting to work with.

Lester: * XPVME MJLF UP TFF NPSF PQFSBUJPO VTJOH more locally grown produce and support for the local market with a bigger emphasis on using seasonal and sustainable produce.

Hayward: (MVUFO GSFF OBUVSBM JOHSFEJFOUT Yanci: * IBWF UIF HSFBUFTU SFTQFDU GPS TFBTPOBM ingredients and would love to see restaurants BDSPTT UIF 6"& JOUSPEVDF UIFN NPSF PGUFO 5IF usage of the same ingredients throughout the year is a shame because produce has a clear seasonal component. We only see this with the top-tier ingredients such as trufes, which is great but there are many ingredients that could BMTP CFOFmU GSPN UIJT "MTP JU HJWFT XBZ GPS NPSF variety in the offering and introduces seasonal menus too, which is good for creativity.

Velvick: Foraged ingredients and organic.

Buchholzer: Locally sourced produce.

What has run its course and should now be forgotten?

Gradnitzer: * EPOhU CFMJFWF BOZUIJOH IBT SFBMMZ run its course, everything is needed as long as it is done well and marketed well. The identity of a restaurant and communication of the concept is paramount - it is this that needs to be focused on.

Mouriess: We are human so we should talk to PVS HVFTUT BOE UFBN OPU KVTU UP NBLF NPOFZ :FU it’s a fact of life that we are running businesses.

But it’s not like in the old days when you dined out and it felt like you were going to your second home.

Stokes: Unhealthy fast foods. Fast food can be made so that it is healthy and fast.

Parsk: Buffet restaurants. Unless the chefs are cooking it live, it is normally cold and or over cooked and swimming in sauce or so dry because it’s still in a chafďŹ ng dish.

Tobbitt: * EPOhU UIJOL UIFSF JT BOZUIJOH UIBU IBT SVO JUT DPVSTF * CFMJFWF JUhT EPXO UP UIF DIFGT restaurant managers and restauranteurs to keep things fresh and innovative.

Melis: The sharing concept is everywhere and most of the time the dishes and menus are just OPU TVJUBCMF GPS TIBSJOH *U XJMM SFNBJO UIPVHI * just think it should be over!

Lester: This is still an emerging market with room for new ideas and concepts. There will be the odd POF PS UXP UIBU GBMM UP UIF XBZ TJEF CVU * CFMJFWF there will be a lot more to come.

Hayward: Fancy wording and French terminology on menus.

Yanci: Well, it isn’t a cooking technique or an JOHSFEJFOU SFBMMZ CVU JG XF GPDVT PO UIF 6"& * SFBMMZ UIJOL SFTUBVSBOUT DBOhU CBTF UIFJS VOJRVF selling proposition on its decoration or the DBQBDJUZ UP DSFBUF B TIPX GBDUPS *UhT HSFBU UP IBWF a beautiful restaurant and for it to be visited by celebrities but it is not a restaurant if the food EPFTOhU TUBOE PVU -FUhT GPDVT PO GPPE QMFBTF

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

TRENDING NOW A recent report from US advertising agency Sterling Rice Group offers an insight into what may be hot in the US F&B market in 2015.

How many of them do you think will play over here in the Gulf?

Firstly, ingredients: t Broth for health - Fresh bone broths like chicken and lemongrass in a carton could be big. t Gruit ales - That is, ales brewed with herbs and aromatics rather than hops. If that’s a step too far, there’s already a device on the market that lets you inject aromatic avours into your beer. t Matcha tea - Regular green tea is so yesterday’s drink, being replaced by Matcha, which is a ďŹ nely powdered Japanese tea said to have greater health beneďŹ ts. t Coconut sugar - Said to be healthier than regular sugar.

t Fermented foods. t Pistachios - Look for pistachio butters, spreads, drips, oils and milks. t Grains - Quinoa has already peaked, so watch for kaniwa and teff. t Kalettes - A new hybrid vegetable, a cross between a Brussel sprout and kale.

Next, broader industry trends: t Filipino cuisine - After Latin America, this is the next US trend, but we don’t see it playing here. t Smoke - If not BBQ, then expect more general smokiness as a avouring. t Same day food delivery - Amazon’s expects to roll this out but not, we suspect, in our region. t Trucks - The oodgates are opening and food trucks are on our roads. There will be more.

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FEATURES / trends

"At the end of the day, is a locust much scarier than a shrimp?"

22

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

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trends / FEATURES

Velvick: Two for one offers and brunch buffets.

Buchholzer: Too much ďŹ ddling with the ingredients.

What do Dubai/Abu Dhabi really need amongst new F&B offerings?

Gradnitzer: Consistency.

Mouriess: Price, guest interaction, family outings and home cooking.

Stokes: $BOhU BOTXFS *hN BGSBJE BT NZ DPODFQU might be taken!

Parsk: Fresh, seasonal produce using local producers wherever possible.

Tobbitt: 5P CF IPOFTU * UIJOL UIF NBSLFU JT HFUUJOH a little ooded with F&B offerings and believe the GPDVT TIPVME CF FYFDVUJOH XIBU XF DVSSFOUMZ IBWF to the highest standards possible.

Melis: More individual identity and fewer brands.

Lester: DeďŹ nitely a need for good quality service - we are miles behind the culinary hubs of the world.

Hayward: Better produce and more availability of products.

Yanci: We really need small, unique places, run with passion.

Velvick: More healthy restaurants serving more organic and less sugar and gluten. This is TPNFUIJOH *hN USZJOH UP QVU JOUP NZ EJTIFT Buchholzer: Home grown quality restaurants and

affordable coffee with character.

Are you still seeing innovation across the F&B sector?

Gradnitzer: Within the region not as much as * XPVME IPQF * GFFM JU JT HSPXJOH UPP GBTU BOE FYQFDUBUJPOT BSF HJWFO UP QSPWJEF OFX SFTUBVSBOUT in a short time frame. Because of this some great concepts are not able to come to fruition - a truly innovative, unique concept takes time to develop.

0O UIF PUIFS IBOE * XPVME BMXBZT SBJTF UIF RVFTUJPO XIBU JT JOOPWBUJPO *OOPWBUJPO GPS NF can be as simple as a good classic offering done well and with consistency.

Mouriess: :FT CVU PO B DPNNFSDJBM CBTF *O NZ humble opinion, we should look back at the good simple events we used to cater for and perfected the food.

Stokes: There are certain restaurants that are innovative and certain restaurants that work doing what they do best.

Parsk: :FT FWFSZ ZFBS UIFSF BSF OFX DPODFQUT PQFOJOH BMM PWFS %VCBJ 4PNF XPSL BOE TPNF take time to develop but it is great to see such a booming restaurant scene in the city.

Tobbitt: For sure, the standards have increased massively over the last ďŹ ve years.

Melis: *OOPWBUJPO UP NF JT XIFO UIF PGGFSJOH is a personal interpretation of the cuisine - that DBO CF *UBMJBO #SJUJTI PS *OEJBO BT MPOH BT JU IBT

the personal touch! This is something we miss in Dubai. Here it is all about overseas brands and everything available at any time of the year.

Caesar’s salad is on 80% of Dubai’s menus, but it should only be on room service menus to me.

Lester: 4MPXMZ CVU UIFSF JT TUJMM B MPOH XBZ UP HP there are still to many brands being brought in for all over the world. There needs to be more entrepreneurship developing new and one off restaurants and cafes speciďŹ cally for the region, as you would ďŹ nd in any thriving culinary city around the world.

Hayward: :FT XF BSF BMM SFTQPOTJCMF GPS ESJWJOH it, we have a responsibility to ourselves, Dubai and the customer to keep us ahead of the world.

Yanci: "CTPMVUFMZ *OOPWBUJPO EPFTO U IBWF UP always be something surprisingly crazy or shocking. *OOPWBUJPO DBO CF GPVOE JO EFUBJMT MJLF NBZCF bringing back an ingredient or herb that had been forgotten. Or rescuing a technique used in the past BOE UBLF JU UP B OFX MFWFM * TFF JOOPWBUJPO BOE DSFBUJWJUZ BT B GVOEBNFOUBM QJMMBS UP B SFTUBVSBOU within certain limits, it is what creates that ‘wow!’ GBDUPS UIBU NBLFT UIF FYQFSJFODF VOJRVF BOE makes people visit you again.

Velvick: * UIJOL JUhT TUJMM B XPSLJOH QSPHSFTT TUJMM B long way to go.

Buchholzer: :FT EBJMZ CVU JU JT NPSF BCPVU reinventing the past...

FURTHER OUT Fashion in food change. Dramtically. #SFBLGBTU GPS UIF BODJFOU (SFFLT XBT NPTU likely bread dripped in wine whilst the 3PNBOT FOKPZFE GFSNFOUFE mTI FOUSBJMT )FOSZ 7*** T DPVSU EJOFE PO QFBDPDL IFSPO porpoise and seagull. However, thanks to a deadly combination of climate change and population growth, in the future we’ll be eating foods that aren’t even on most QFPQMF T IPSJ[POT :FU )FSF JT UIF QSPCMFN according to food futurologist Morgaine (BZF i*O UIF 8FTU NBOZ PG VT IBWF HSPXO VQ XJUI DIFBQ BCVOEBOU NFBU 3JTJOH QSJDFT mean we are now starting to see the return PG NFBU BT B MVYVSZ "T B SFTVMU XF BSF looking for new ways to ďŹ ll the meat gap.â€?

Here’s what we’ll have to turn to: t Insects - There are about 1,400 edible species, they provide as much nutritional value as ordinary meat and are a great source of protein costing less to raise than cattle, consuming less water and having B MJHIU DBSCPO GPPUQSJOU "U UIF FOE PG the day, is a locust much scarier than a shrimp? The Dutch government, at least, is serious about this - it recently invested one million Euros into research and is preparing

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legislation to govern insect farms. Many DPVOUSJFT BMSFBEZ IBWF JOTFDUT BT QBSU PG UIF EJFU DBUFSQJMMBST BOE MPDVTUT JO "GSJDB XBTQT JO +BQBO and crickets in Thailand. t Sonic-enhanced food - 3FTFBSDI BU UIF 6OJWFSTJUZ PG 0YGPSE GPVOE UIBU DFSUBJO UPOFT can make food taste sweeter or more bitter. *NBHJOF UIFO VTJOH UIF SJHIU UPOFT UP SFNPWF unhealthy elements in your diet but giving the impression that they are still there SFEVDJOH TVHBS ESBTUJDBMMZ GPS FYBNQMF )FTUPO #MVNFOUIBM BMSFBEZ IBT B EJTI 5IF 4PVOE PG UIF 4FB XIJDI JT TFSWFE XJUI BO J1PE QMBZJOH seaside sounds, which aparently make the food taste fresher. t Laboratory meat - Dutch scientists have already QSPEVDFE JO WJUSP ADVMUVSFE NFBU TUSJQT PG muscle tissue using stem cells taken from cows, said to look like calamari. t Algae. Okay, they’re at the bottom of the food chain but they can feed people via the ocean (a great help when land and fresh water are in TIPSU TVQQMZ BOE NBZCF BMTP QSPWJEF CJPGVFM There are 10,000 types of seaweed in the world - currently 145 species are used as food - and XF SF BMSFBEZ VTFE UP FBUJOH JO JO TVTIJ "OE B big bonus about seaweed is that it’s the fastest growing plant on earth.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

23

FEATURES / kitchen skills

Grill of Lexington e in is u C e d f fine eron is Che d the flagship the Year, Lij H e f d o a f e e h h y C sl t u a o e zine’s M CIA, he previ ah Emirates r of this maga om at Jumeri Trained at the o .

R h a ib R im a g Recent winne h in K n l as A award-win rf Astoria in R steaks.

Arab and the l A rj u at The Waldo B oking the best e co th t d a n a a h g n ta si n o u rant Al M tips for cho dining restau ers some top ff o e h re e H .

Towers

F

irst things first - dry ageing has been around for a long time. All meat was hung at your grandfather's or grandmother's butcher shop for weeks before for it was sold. Then the vacuum pack machine became more affordable, so we forgot about this classic way.

Dry ageing is when the meat is hung in a temperate controlled room with the air circulating constantly for minimum of 21 days. During this time natural enzymes and microbes break down the connective tissue in the beef, the circulating air also slowly dehydrates the beef. Since there is less water in the beef and the connective tissue is broken down, the benefit of this is a more tender meat with a more intense flavour.

My approach to suppliers is that they are a part of my business plan. We need good and reliable suppliers. I work hard on building good relationship with suppliers for one more than

24

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

one occasion they have helped me out. They are essential for good business and growth. You have to choose a reliable supplier, if they are not, they are wasting mine and their time. If I am having an issue with a supplier, I communicate with them and tell them that I will go somewhere else.

Having a good relationship with them can benefit my restaurant business as they know what new products are coming on the market. They can give you a call to say they’ve got some really good wild mushrooms today, for example. If the supplier does not have a good relationship with you and you don't treat them well, they will not give you that call. Also having a good relationship with them and being loyal to them can also reduce the price of some items because you are a loyal customer.

How do I cook the best steak? Here are some tips and tricks. Firstly, choose the right meat - this is by far the most imported step - choosing the cut and grade of meat. There are three grades: Select (lowest quality), Choice (good quality cut with tenderness and marbling) and Prime (the most marbling and flavour). The cuts of meat used for grilling are filet, ribeye, sirloin, T-bone and porterhouse. If you are unsure which to use, filet is always the crowd pleaser. My favourite is the ribeye as it has the most flavour .

For seasoning the steak, you only need sea salt (or flavoured gourmet sea salt), fresh ground black pepper and olive oil or butter. Apply to both sides.

For grilling the steak, always make sure the grill is hot - the temperature of the grill mostly depends on personal presence, anywhere between 160180C. Rest the steak! Do not forget this step as many steaks are spoilt if the steak is not rested.

Why, you ask? By letting the steak rest it allows the juices to be redistributed to the steak which makes it taste a lot better. Finally, finish with a dab of butter.

STEAK/MEAT TRENDS FOR 2015 Giant cuts - serve portions that are for two people such as tomahawk and cote de boeuf, for example.

Old school - bring back dry aged meat, as this is being done all over the world. Also bring back old school service, making certain dishes in front of the guest, such as steak tartar and Caesar salad.

Seasonings - have different seasonings for steaks for different countries, such as Mexican, Indian or Japanese.

Budget friendly cuts - offer budget friendly meat cuts such as wagyu beef flank and oyster blade.

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kitchen skills / FEATURES

Photography: Kari Heron, chefandsteward.com

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December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

25

CHEFS / face to face

E M B R A C I N G

C H A N G E

Born in the Auvergne in the heart of France, Olivier Chaleil, Executive Chef at Sofitel the Palm has coming up to three and a half decades in F&B, with a career spanning Europe, North America, Asia and Africa. How he's finetuning the concepts at the Polynesian styled hotel and looking to develop more links with local producers.

E

xecutive Chef Olivier Chaleil has a wealth of expertise in the F&B and catering realm, beginning his career with apprenticeships in various world-renowned Michelin star restaurants in France, including Hôtel L’Espérance in St. Père-sous-Vézelay.

Following an eight year period as Restaurant Chef at the Le Meridien Hotel in Vancouver, he relocated to Taipei from 1993 to 1997, as Executive Chef of The Ritz Hotel, a member of the Leading Hotels of the World. He then moved as Executive Chef of the globally recognised The Oberoi in Bali, before moving to the One&Only Le Touessrok in Mauritius and, most recently, another iconic Leading Hotel of the World, the Ciragan Palace Kempinski in Istanbul, Turkey as Executive Chef.

Were you busy in the kitchen as a child?

Well, it's a bit of a cliche but our family used to have a cook, preparing very French bourgeois cuisine. My father insisted on proper service at the table and my parents did a lot of entertaining, so I grew up really enjoying that whole spectacle of the feast on the table. Everything was proper.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

Where was this?

A small place called Courtenay in the Loiret, not too far from Orleans. There were seven houses in small villages - all family. Our business was medical, although my grandfather was a teacher and had a small vegetable patch. This is still a very quiet part of France - typical of the history are the stories about the Beast of Gévaudan, a man-eating dog-wolf. But it's a very rich area for food and, in fact, many people from the region were financed by local banks to take over brasseries in Paris, as long as they bought supplies from local companies.

Anyway, when I was young I cooked for fun and I decided on it as my career. Chefs like things to be done quickly and finish them - if you're a lawyer, something can take six months! So I studied five or six disciplies - service, kitchen, pastry and so on before, I moved to Santa Fe with a girl in the 1980s! I didn't want to do military service so…

That must have been a shock after a quiet corner of France?

Yes, everything was new but I never make comparisons. At that time in the 1980s, the culture

of food was moving towards minimalism, food as fashion. I think Americans have no burden, no real culture so they can embrace change easily. They open the fridge and just pick and mix. France?

I'm afraid now that we've been abused by every other country, we no longer know how to secure our past. But the classics and the base of cuisine if French and you cannot forget the base. For me, the classics are always better. You know, make your stocks from scratch, right? Anyway, tastes are changing.

Your career really began at L'Hermitage?

Yes, I worked in pastry. It was a superb French restaurant - 70 chefs for 150 guests! Everything was fresh. Every night everything unusued went in the garbage. Anyway, I started at the bottom like a fighter but it was a shock coming from a nice house and suddenly I'm being shouted at to clean the floor. But it was good for me - I had been completely spoiled. My first salary? $10 a month!

You had to take it - the pressure, everything.

Things are no longer like that. Back when I started, I was quite wild - partying my face off! I knew I had

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face to face / CHEFS

"I do like to help wherever I go so I started to advise farmers on what to grow with a guarantee that I would then buy their crop.

It worked really well."

to change. I spent some time in a small restaurant in London where I learned speed and was ready for the one star La Cote d'Or in Nuits St Georges.

I started as a commis but after two months I was running the kitchen! I loved it - collecting produce from the market, fish from our own boat in Brittany. That's where I learned to be precise - we put ingredients first with no compromise.

Then you moved to Canada?

Yes, to Vancouver as part of the opening team for Le Meridien Hotel. It had very good F&B but I was out of place. I was used to the French style and I was extremely violent in the kitchen - if something was on the passe for a minute, I'd smash it on the floor. That was the French way, the chef challenging the pupil. If I'm honest, I was a nutcase. Finally, one of the team came up and asked me if I had a mental problem because, in Canada, people respected chefs. I listened and, by the end of service, I realised he was right and I began the change to be more of a teacher. Did that make me a better chef? Of course. Then a funny thing happened - I read a piece by a food

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critic who said European chefs were womanising dictators. He received threats but I thought it was funny and called him, we got on and he taught me the culture. I stayed in the country seven years and became Canadian then I needed another challenge and went to Taiwan.

More culture shock?

Absolutely! The first day I wanted to cry and leave - no way was I staying! However, the F&B Director too me out one day and on a little street, under the trees, were rows and rows of people cooking street food. We ate like kings! After that, I clicked with the culture - like the French, they'll eat anything! I'd taken over a French restaurant that was very old, very stuffy and bankrupt. I started to change it and it worked. You know, most French chefs cook for themselves but you need to cook for your customers, with your own identity, of course.

So, I tweaked the menu and the restaurant became so famous you couldn't believe it - we were the talk of the town. I developed this system where I'd record everything people ate and all sorts of things about them. That way, I could say, "Why

don't you try this dish? You had scallops last time."

Then, once again I needed to move on so I took the family to Bali.

It's quite unusual for a French chef to enjoy Asian food.

I find the difference interesting. For example, I love Indian food - it's spectacular. Everywhere I go I eat and drink the local food - you really can't judge what you don't know. After that, we spent four year on Madeira - a magical island - before moving on to Mauritius. I think we created something quite special there. With my Executive Sous Chef who had worked at Maxim's, we split the menu betweeen modern French and modern Chines, so with each dish you could choose one way or the other. When I began there at One&Only, everything was imported and I tried to find local produce. The problem was the number of cyclones that just wiped farmers out. I do like to help wherever I go so I started to advise farmers on what to grow with a guarantee that I would then buy their crop. It worked really well. Then, after five years…

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

27

CHEFS / face to face

Another move?

Yes, this time to Istanbul to the Ciragan Palace , a stunning property right down on the water. It was luxury, it was incredible, it was a dream. I made the property 82% organic - I don't think that's a fashion, just a word that's been abused. I linked up with a young couple who would travel the country sourcing for me and, again, where possible I'd buy up a whole farmer's crop. Turkey for me was fascinating with all of its traces of other cultures and foods. I was really happy there - I think Istanbul is where I'll die - but the company wanted me to take over part of Russia. I left and I cried.

And so to Dubai.

Yes, I'd been part of an opening team before so it was okay. we knew we wanted a seafood restaurant, French, Chinese and a steakhouse so working on those concepts was fun. There's also a planned Lebanese but that's outsourced. It's the seafood restaurant Moana which is really my concept. I believe people want food that's easy to understand using ingredients that are the best in the world. Our steakhouse, for example, is very much in the French style with different cuts and some playing around with sauces and garnishes. I don't like to follow fashion.

Based on what you've done before, what moves have you made to source locally?

I certainly want to find the right people to work with here, people with passion.

Lastly, what do you feel is missing from the UAE F&B scene?

Definitekly good service! In Sofitel, we have a strong standard of training but most places service is bad. I tell my people that they are here for the customers, to create good moments - if I hear one of them say "No" to a customer, then they're gone.

ALASKAN KING CRAB LEGS WITH PEPPER MASALA AND COCONUT EMULSION SERVES: 3 INGREDIENTS 600g king crab legs 3 tbsps cooking oil 2 sprigs curry leaves 0.5 tbsp mustard seeds 0.5 tbsp turmeric powder 6 ripe tomatoes, roughly cut salt to taste 2 tbsps Kashmiri chilli powder 0.5 tbsps sugar METHOD ∙ Steam crab legs for ten minutes, cut in half length wise. ∙ Heat up oil on a moderate heat, add mustard seeds and curry leaves. Add chopped tomato, chilli powder and turmeric powder. Cover the pot with a lid, cook for a further ten minutes and adjust seasonings. ∙ Blend, pass through a sieve, cool then keep aside.

ONION MASALA INGREDIENTS 20ml cooking oil 0.5 tbsps mustard seeds 0.5 tbsps cumin seeds 300g red onion, finely chopped 2 sprigs curry leaves 4 garlic cloives, peeled and crushed 1 tbsp ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp red chilli powder 1 tbsp coriander powder 0.25 tbsp turmeric powder 1 tbsp Babas curry powder 0.25 tbsp garam masala powder 1 tbsp black pepper, crushed salt to taste 300ml tomato sauce METHOD

∙ Heat up cooking oil in a heavy based pot on a medium heat, then add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves, taking care not to burn these

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

ingredients.

∙ Add crushed garlic, chopped onion and cook until golden in colour.

∙ Mix ginger garlic paste, cook for two minutes and

METHOD Simmer coconut milk with all the above ingredients for ten minutes on a low heat, until it extracts the full flavour. Strain and keep warm.

add all the dry powders, stirring occasionally.

∙ Finally add tomato sauce and cook for further 15 minutes on a medium heat.

TO FINISH THE DISH

∙ In a heavy based pot add onion masala, adjust consistency with water or crab stock.

COCONUT EMULSION INGREDIENTS 100ml coconut milk 0.25 stick of lemongrass, crushed 2 lime leaves 1 coriander stem 2 red chillies, cut length wise 75ml water juice of half a lemon rock salt to taste

∙ Add cooked crab legs, mix well with masala, cover the pot with a lid then cook on a medium heat for about ten minutes until the crab is fully coated with onion masala and add freshly chopped coriander leaves. ∙ To finish blend the coconut sauce with a hand blender until it’s become frothy. ∙ Serve immediately with the crab legs on a warm plate or bowl, spoon over the coconut emulsion on top of the crab legs, garnish with orange tobikko (optional) and coriander sprigs.

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27/11/14 09:04

CHEFS / face to face

" I love new experiences and I’m not a cookie cutter guy. I think the way the industry is going is that people will go to a fine dining place maybe one a month but increasingly they’ll want lifestyle restaurants, still good food but more relaxed."

Born in Acapulco, Chef Richard Sandoval is the son of an expert restaurateur and family of self-described foodies. Sandoval who fondly recalls learning about authentic Mexican food at his grandmother's side in her kitchen has made Mexican and Latin cuisines a mainstay the world over with almost three dozen restaurants. His latest venture is Zengo in Dubai.

G

rowing up in Mexico City, Chef Richard Sandoval joined his grandmother in the kitchen and gatheredaround her large table with family to enjoy lively Mexican feasts prepared from scratch. From her, he learned to respect fresh, authentic, ingredients and to create the vibrant flavours that turned family dinners into celebrated events. Meanwhile, his restaurateur father passed on lessons in service and restaurant management.

Sandoval, once a professional tennis player, had such a passion for food that he decided to enroll in the Culinary Institute of America and then open two contemporary French restaurants, Savann and Savann Es, in New york. However, he returned to his first love - the food of his childhood - and, in 1997, opened his flagship modern Mexican restaurant Maya in New York.

Since then, his career as a chef and restaurateur has evolved to include serving as a culinary consultant, television personality, cookbook author and brand ambassador with a leading international restaurant group now numbering three dozen restaurants worldwide. With the broad range of restaurants in his portfolio, he combines authentic Latin ingredients with international flavours and inventive techniques, to create new and unexpected concepts and cuisines such as modern and coastal Mexican, Latin-Asian, Peruvian and Pan-Latin.

Good to see you back in town.

Thanks. I think Dubai is the most exciting city in the world. I was one of the very first name chefs to set

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

up here and I don’t see an end to growth.

You don’t feel that Dubai has too much Sandoval already?

I hope not! To be honest, this restaurant was the hotel’s idea - they’d seen my other Zengos and thought the idea would work here. It’s Asianmeets-Latin American with Chef Akmal Anuar who I met in Singapore when he was head chef of Iggy’s. We hit it off straight away and it’s been very interesting and inspiring developing the menu with him.

How does the collaboration work?

He shows me things, I show him others and we develop ideas together. He’s a very intuitive chef

Chefs Sandoval Akmal Anuar

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face to face / CHEFS

and we haven’t any borders between us. The menu is very ingredient driven and we’ll have some products unique to is - certain chillies, for example.

The project’s taken about a year to get to this stage and I think we’ve both learned a lot. Personally, I’ve no ego in the kitchen - it’s all about the food and, as people travel more and more, they’ll get the idea of the mix.

Do you find it depressing that Mexican food is largely misunderstood outside the country?

Oh yes. It was even worse 20 years ago but everyone still thinks Tex-Mex is what our cuisine is all about - tacos and burritos. Mexican food is incredibly diverse and regional and you really need to understand the ingredients and how to use them. We’ve come a long way and my passion is still to create dishes that people understand. We have an amazing cuisine - it serves more attention.

I think I’ve done a fair bit to help bring it up-todate as have other chefs like Rick Bayliss, but we’re just showcasing the cuisine in a new way. Mexico is still a poor country.

What’s your take on the Dubai restaurant scene.

The city has certainly changed dramatically but i think it needs, in food terms, to develop its own identity. Now its just importing expensive produce for absentee chefs...

Do you think the food truck concept would work here?

It’s a great way for younger chefs to get a start and take ownership. The problem is, from a restauranteur’s perspective that they can really hurt our business. Look at the investment we put into a restaurant and then - bang! - out of nowhere ten food trucks are parked across the street. Somehow we need a level playing field. We can do a steak sandwich and a drink for ten bucks just like they do but that doesn’t cover our investment.

When do you think you’ll stop opening new restaurants?

I don’t know! I love new experiences and I’m not a cookie cutter guy. I think the way the industry is going is that people will go to a fine dining place maybe one a month but increasingly they’ll want lifestyle restaurants, still good food but more relaxed. Virtually all the top chefs now have casual places - they’re affordable but, crucially, more approachable. Remember, spending $200 on a meal is not for everyone. I love food but I also like to take off ith the kids to a beach or the muntains and just relax. Maybe I should open a shrimp shack!

I don't remember who originally told me this, but it was to 'stay humble'. It's important to keep yourself grounded. In many ways, I'm still the same person today that I was 17 years ago when I first started in this business. I like to get to know the dishwashers, bartenders and cooks in all my restaurants. Those connections have helped me stay grounded; they help me keep learning. Once I stop learning, that's my last day in the industry.

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December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

Maintaining standards Chef Sergio Vineis from Italy's renowned restaurant Il Patio in Biella was recently hosted at BiCE in Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort, as part of the Italian Cuisine World Summit. His dishes are a contemporary and innovative reinterpretation of the flavours and gastronomic culture of his region - Mediterranean with a special attention to vegetables.

C

hef Sergio Vineis was not confident in his ability to be interviewed in English, his real skills residing in the kitchen.

Therefore, we conducted an interview with him via the translations of Chef Fernando Galbiati, Head Chef of BiCE. Born in Biella, he is Chef Patron of the Ristorante Il Patio, which holds one Michelin star, and is located in the same province. After finishing his technical studies and a brief experience at university, Chef Vineis caught what he calls his ‘disease’: his passion for cooking. From that moment on, he began his education in his own restaurant.

deliver on the plate needs to be what’s inside you, then people will like you. Today, there’s so much communication and a lot of information - that’s good but you need to find the chef inside you and not just copy and paste. Who are you, really?

How do you translate simple Italian food into fine dining?

Firstly, you have to be true to history. Our food is regional and built on the quality of ingredients, so that’s the start. Good product, good knowledge: the first is essential, the second vital to take the food to Michelin level. Cuisine is an evolution - new trends are always there, but be true to the cuisine and don’t change things just for the sake of it.

What did you mean when you spoke of this ‘disease’ of cooking?

It’s like you feel sick with a passion - not disease as in virus, like that. The kitchen is a passion, something you have inside you like art.

Did you have this as a child?

No, it developed when I was at university where I studied philosophy. I just caught it - I had always liked to cook but now it was my real passion and, age 22, I decided to follow the dream. When I was small, we ate very traditional northern Italian food, although my mother was from Sardinia and used to mix in dishes from there. She cooked with love and attention, becoming very good at Piedmontese dishes. So we ate a mix of the two cuisines.

When you found your dream, did you go to culinary school?

No, I was never a fan of school too much. This was the 1970s, a time of great change for artists and those changes gave me inspiration. I learned hard work from my father and even today, I like to

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

Does the Michelin system put too much stress on chefs?

It’s important but I think other things are more important. Consistency is key to maintaining standards. Do I sleep before the new guide comes out? Yes. What do you eat at home?

Traditional dishes like minestrone. know everything I can. My father was a chef and I started working in his restaurant, never sleeping, then I went to London for a while mainly as a plongeur. Then I got the idea that I’d like to live in the mountains and just came acrioss this little place, moved in and started a restaurant. That began a six year journey of discovery.

How tied were you to your roots?

Very much so. Yes, I was curious about styles from Spain and so on but, at the end, I believe you need to find out about your roots. What you

What three ingredients would you choose at the expense of others?

Okay, for me think differently is not complex, so I’d start with onions. Very simple, yes? But I imagine going to the market, choosing different onions for taste and different concepts. Next, perhaps punta di peto (beef brisket) - it’s fallen out of use, but you can develop real flavour. Another ingredient? I’m Italian so I like tomatoes and basil, but let me choose fish. Always, however, I need top quality produce. For that, you have to know your producers.

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face to face / CHEFS

SWEET PEAR WITH CHOCOLATE EARTH AND MILK EGG-NOG SERVES: 8 PEAR INGREDIENTS 800g pear 60g sugar 5g isinglass 2g agar agar 1 lemon pear distillate METHOD ∙ Peel pear, season with lemon juice and centrifuge. ∙ Boil them added sugar and agar agar, reduce slightly and clean the impurities to get clear syrup. ∙ Remove from heat and add isinglass ( colla di pesce ) and short pear distillate. ∙ Put into rectangular mould and cool.

CHOCOLATE GANACHE INGREDIENTS 150ml double cream 60g sugar 60g pure chocolate 15g bitter cocoa 2 oranges

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METHOD ∙ Boil double cream, sugar, bitter cocoa and add orange juice and orange peel, before reducing with sugar. ∙ Finally, add pure chocolate and cool in the fridge.

MILK EGG-NOG INGREDIENTS 250ml milk 100ml double cream 80g white egg 100g sugar vanilla

the rest.

∙ Shape the meringues and bake in oven - 90C for a few hours.

EARTH INGREDIENTS 85g flour 13g bitter cocoa powder 2g bicarbonate of soda 70g smooth butter 60g cane sugar 30g sugar 1.5g salt 70g pure chocolate

METHOD

∙ Whip white egg with sugar. ∙ Boil milk, double cream and vanilla. ∙ Add them to white egg and sugar, then cook at 85C. ∙ Strain, cool and put into the siphon bottle with two cream chargers.

MERINGUE INGREDIENTS 100g sugar 50g fresh white egg Method

∙ Whip white eggs with a little of sugar and then add

METHOD

∙ Whip butter and sugar, add flour and bitter cocoa then strain, adding bicarbonate of soda and salt. Only at the end add minced pure chocolate. ∙ Flatten slightly about 1cm and put in the fridge to rest for about three hours. ∙ Bake in oven, 180C for nine to ten minutes. ∙ To construct the final dish, pour a bit of chocolate ganache in the middle of a soup plate, around add chocolate earth that’s been chopped in a blender. ∙ Stand a cube of pear jelly on the chocolate ganache and cover earth with milk egg-nog. ∙ Decorate with crumbled meringue like snow and dry pear, then sprinkle with some icing sugar.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

A taste of Napoli During the recent Italian Food Summit, BiCE Mare hosted three visiting Italian chefs for the Taste of Napoli special menu - Chef Salvadore Bianco, Chef Pasquale Palamaro and Chef Marianna Vitale, all originally from Naples, prepared a sumptuous seven course menu. The menu featured signature dishes from each chef, including Italian style tuna tartare and pasta with cream and mussels for anti-pasti, followed by the main pasta dish of linguine with squid ink and calamari. For the fourth and fifth courses, diners were able to savour the best of both land and sea, with red mullet, lemon leaves and cream, followed by slow cooked beef served with traditional Napolitan sauce. To end on a sweet note, guests indulged in a raspberry semifreddo and creamy ricotta cheese served with pear and a crunchy hazelnut biscuit.

CHEF MARIANNA VITALE AT THE MERE AGE OF 34, MARIANNA IS ONE OF THE YOUNGEST FEMALE CHEFS IN THE WORLD TO RUN A MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT. SHE HAS ALSO BEEN AWARDED LADY CHEF OF THE YEAR BY THE ESPRESSO GUIDE 2014.

RESTAURANT SUD, QUARTO.

STRATIFICAZIONE DI FRISELLA INGREDIENTS 350g toasted bread 300g green olives 200g tomatoes ramati 200g fresh mozzarella 300g yellow fin tuna 1 spring onion fresh oregano 50g buffalo yogurt 30g balsamic glaze

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

METHOD ∙ Cut the bread into small dice and toast at 180C for six minutes in the oven then let it cool. ∙ Cut the tomato (previously blanched and peeled), the tuna, green olives and the mozzarella in the same way of the bread. ∙ Season the tuna with olive oil, salt and black pepper. ∙ Season the tomato with olive oil, black pepper, salt and basil. ∙ Chop the spring onion and keep aside. ∙ Put the ring in the middle of the plate and start with the layer of bread, then the chopped tomatoes, the green olives, mozzarella and as a last the tuna. ∙ Remove the ring and sprinkle with the spring onion, fresh oregano, the buffalo yogurt and some balsamic glaze.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

CHEF PASQUALE PALAMARO HE JOINED INDACO IN 2009 IN THE FAMOUS HOTEL REGINA ISABELLA. HIS CUISINE FEATURES MAINLY SEAFOOD AND IS HIGHLY INFLUENCED

BY THE TERRITORY. INDACO GAINED A MICHELIN STAR IN 2013.

INDACO RESTAURANT, ISCHIA.

ACULEI DI MARE SU SPUMA DI PATATE TUNA TARTAR INGREDIENTS 400 gr yellow fin tuna 3 basil leaves 1 lemon zest 50/80ml sparkling water olive oil salt and black pepper.

PER GLI ACULEI INGREDIENTS squid ink 500g capellini pasta 4 white eggs 100g white flour

pasta, and put back inside the fridge for at least five hours. ∙ Wash and cut the potatoes and stew in a pot with the olive oil, spring onion, salt, pepper and ice. ∙ Once ready, blend the potatoes and leave to cool, then add the cream and the stabilizer pro espuma. Fill up a syphon with the potatoes cream and charge it with two gas. ∙ In the middle of the plate put the potatoes foam, in the meanwhile frying the tuna tartar for a few second and plate on top of the foam. ∙ Garnish with flowers and herbs.

GUANCE DI MANZO ALLA GENOVESE SERVES 10 BEEF INGREDIENTS 10 beef cheeks 250/300g each 1l red wine 1l white wine juniper berries, cloves, salt and black pepper 3kg onion 2 red onions from Tropea 2 carrots 2 celery sticks

POTATO FOAM INGREDIENTS kg potatoes 300g crushed ice 400ml fresh cream 50% 1 spring onion 50g pro espuma sosa salt and black pepper olive oil edible flowers and herbs

PAPACCELLE INGREDIENTS 5 red bell peppers 1kg potatoes 10g thyme parmesan 10g gelatine Kappa salt and black pepper olive oil

METHOD ∙ Chop the tuna in a small diced and seasoning with all the ingredients. ∙ Make a small sphere of 40g for each one and keep it in the fridge for two hours. ∙ Pass the pasta trough the squid ink. ∙ Pass the tuna tartar trough the flour, white eggs and

METHOD ∙ Clean the cheeks and marinate all night long in the red wine, vegetables and spices. Keep the trimmings for the broth. ∙ The next morning, start to cook the meat with some corno il and add the finely cut onions, add the white wine and cover. Let it cook for at least four hours at

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on low heat.

∙ Remove the meat from the fire, blend the onion. ∙ With the beef trimmings and the red wine from the marinade prepare the beef jus.

∙ Dice the potatoes and cook. Remove from the boiling water and brown in a pan with butter, onion, salt, black pepper and thyme, ∙ When cool, make small ball of 20g each, wrap in cling film and keep in the blast chiller. ∙ Boil the bell peppers in water, blend and pass trough a sieve. ∙ For each 100g of sauce add 1g of stabiliser and bring to the boil. Keep hot. ∙ With a toothpick bead the potatoes ball and dunk into the bell pepper gelatine twice then cool in the fridge. ∙ When it’s time to serve, re-heat the meat in the beef jus and del sphere in the oven at 60C and plate as shown.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

35

CHEFS / recipe corner

RICOTTA E PERE INGREDIENTS 164g buffalo ricotta cheese 50g icing sugar 50ml fresh cream, 35% fat 100ml iKi beer 1g agar 80g pear in syrup 1 Java pepper 8 rasberries 2 pieces green pea cress 6 Viola del pensiero flowers 3 dry black olives 100g butter 100g white flour 100g sugar 100g hazelnut flour

∙ In the middle of the plate, start to put the ricotta

METHOD ∙ Pass through a fine sieve the ricotta cheese and whip the fresh cream. Add the sugar to the ricotta and then the whipped cream. Mix slowly and keep in a pastry bag in the fridge. ∙ Heat the beer, add the agar and bring to boil. Pour in a container to a thickness of 0.5cm and allow to set in the chiller. ∙ Prepare the biscuit by mixing all the ingredients then let it rest for about 30 minutes. ∙ Cut the mixture and give it a round shape, cook at 170C in the oven. ∙ Blend the pears with their syrup.

∙ Start to prepare the gelatine boiling the juice with the

cheese with the piping bag, the pear sauce, beer jelly, pepper and the biscuit on top. ∙ Garnish with the cress and flowers.

TUTTO LAMPONE INGREDIENTS 500g rasberry puree 10g gelatine leaves 100g meringue 300g whipped cream Greek basil green pea cress 500ml rasberry juice 5.5g agar 1 tbs sugar METHOD

CHEF SALVATORE BIANCO IN FEBRUARY 2012, HE JOINED THE ROMEO HOTEL IN NAPLES AS EXECUTIVE CHEF OF IL COMANDANTE AND, LESS THAN A YEAR AFTER HIS ARRIVAL, IT WAS AWARDED ITS FIRST MICHELIN STAR. RESTAURANT IL COMANDANTE, NAPLES.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

sugar, then add the agar and bring up to 85C. Allow to set and refrigerate. ∙ Put the gelatine leaves in the water. Dissolve in 20% of the puree at 45-50C, then add the balance of the rasberry puree and pass trough a fine sieve. ∙ Mix the meringue and then the whipped cream to the rasberry mixture. Put into the moulds and freeze. ∙ Remove from moulds, cut the rasberry jelly to the same diameter of semifreddo and place it on top of it. Garnish.

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You are invited!

TO A NIGHT IN WHITE

Join us at 2015’s hottest event, the 5th annual BBC Good Food ME awards gala night.

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US$350 PER SEAT

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The evening’s agenda includes welcome cocktail reception, a gourmet three-course dinner with drinks, and live entertainment. Plus, plenty of other surprises in store!

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September 2014 BBC Good Food Middle East 85 Official communications partner

CHEFS / recipe corner

beat lightly with a fork. Add the buttermilk, red pepper flakes, oregano and salt and pepper to taste and beat until thoroughly combined. Pour the egg mixture evenly over the layered ingredients in the baking dish. ∙ Bake the strata until it looks slightly puffed up and the top is golden brown, 45 mins to one hour.

Remove the dish from the oven and let it set at room temperature for at least ten minutes before serving.

BUTTERMILK FRENCH TOAST WITH FRESH BERRY COMPOTE

Wolfgang Puck As one of the lunchpins of modern American cuisine, Wolfgang Puck has managed to balance attracting a celebrity clientele in his LA restaurants with delivering dishes that are always on the money. With a evergrowing global empire, he is now focusing more and more on healthier dishes to match his own tastes, here are two of his favourites from his book Wolfgang Puck Makes It Healthy.

ITALIAN STRATA WITH TOMATOES, BELL PEPPER AND SWISS CHEESE

freshly ground black pepper

SERVES 8 INGREDIENTS 225g stale country-style whole wheat or multigrain bread 1 garlic clove, halved olive oil flavoured nonstick cooking spray 1 cup finely shredded reduced-fat Swiss cheese 1 large red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and torn into thin strips 2 large ripe tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced 3 large eggs 3 large egg whites 2 cups buttermilk 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes 1/2 tsp dried oregano 1/2 tsp sea salt

METHOD ∙ Preheat the oven to 175C. ∙ With a sharp bread knife, cut the bread into slices 3/4 inch thick. Rub one or both sides of each bread slice with the cut sides of the garlic clove halves, using more or less depending on how garlicky you want the strata to be. Then, cut the bread into 3/4-inch cubes. ∙ Lightly coat the inside of a 12x10-inch baking dish, gratin dish, or a heavy nonstick 10-inch skillet with nonstick cooking spray. ∙ Place the bread cubes in the dish in a single, even layer. Evenly sprinkle half of the cheese over the bread. Layer the bell pepper strips and tomato slices on top and then sprinkle the remaining cheese over the layer of peppers and tomatoes. ∙ Put the eggs and egg whites in a mixing bowl and

"The good news is that many people are now paying more attention to what they eat and their nutrition but the reality remains that good ingredients are expensive" 38

The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 large egg whites 475ml buttermilk 1 tbsp honey 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger 1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 tsp salt 8 slices good-quality whole wheat bread,each about 1 inch thick, halved diagonally butter-flavoured nonstick cooking spray confectioner’s sugar, for dusting fresh berries (optional) 3/4 cup fresh blueberries 3/4 cup fresh raspberries 3 tbsp honey 1 tbsp grated orange zest 3 oz fresh orange juice (from one large orange) pinch of salt METHOD ∙ In a large, wide bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg whites, buttermilk, honey, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and salt. ∙ Over medium heat, heat a heavy nonstick skillet, or a pair of skillets, large enough to hold all the French toast slices in a single layer without crowding. Dip the bread slices into the egg mixture, turning them and making sure they are completely saturated. ∙ Spray the heated skillet or skillets with nonstick cooking spray. Add the soaked bread pieces and cook until golden brown on both sides, five to seven minutes in total. ∙ To make the fresh berry compote, in a non-reactive saucepan combine the blueberries, raspberries, honey, orange zest, orange juice and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally and continue simmering just until the berries have given up some of their juices and have turned slightly syrupy, three to four minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and keep warm. ∙ Arrange two slices of the French toast on each of four heated serving plates. Spoon some of the compote over each serving. If you like, spoon a little confectioner’s sugar into a small, fine-mesh sieve held over each plate and tap the sieve lightly to dust the French toast. Garnish with fresh berries and serve with more berry compote on the side.

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Italian strata with tomatoes, bell pepper and Swiss cheese

Buttermilk French toast with fresh berry compote

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CHEFS / recipe corner

Quick shots 1962. Swiss trader WE Huber heard it was hard to find a decent cup of coffee in Singapore, so he opened a small business roasting 100% pure gourmet coffee. With a small battery-operated coffee roaster, he began his lifelong passion in building the brand, Boncafé, into a household name.

HONEY NOUGAT ICED LATTE INGREDIENTS 2 espresso shots of Boncafé gourmet coffee 30ml Torani White Chocolate syrup 30ml Torani Almond Roca syrup 30ml honey 30ml unsweetened condensed milk 1 cup cracked ice Torani caramel sauce ground almonds METHOD ∙ Combine all the ingredients together into a blender until smooth and pour the mixture over cracked ice into a glass and decorate with caramel sauce and ground almonds.

VANILLA BEAN FRAPPE INGREDIENTS 2 cups ice 1 shot of espresso 2oz Torani Latte Frozen Coffee Blend 1/4oz Torani Vanilla Bean syrup 4oz milk METHOD ∙ Combine all the ingredients together into a blender until smooth and pour and decorate with fresh cream.

Caribbean iced tea

Vanilla bean frappe

STRAWBERRY SPARKLER INGREDIENTS 3/4oz Torani Strawberry syrup 10oz lemon-lime soda 1 cup ice METHOD ∙ Pour the lemon or lime soda into a tall glass filled with ice. ∙ Add Torani and stir well and garnish with a wedge of lime.

CARIBBEAN ICED TEA INGREDIENTS 3/4oz Torani Peach syrup 1/4oz Torani Mango syrup 4oz brewed tea, chilled 4oz lemonade METHOD ∙ Combine all the ingredients together. Pour the mixture over cracked ice into a glass. ∙ Garnish with a lemon twist.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

Strawberry sparkler

Honey nougat iced latte

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The only event designed FOR the restaurant investment community The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF) will be THE business conference of the Dubai Food Festival 2015, making it the place to do all your deals in 2015.

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LEISURE / art

Art on a plate Art and food united at The Oberoi recently in an innovative new partnership with the XVA Gallery in Dubai. The Art of Food at Ananta was the result of a ground-breaking creative collaboration between the signature Indian restaurant and the award winning gallery.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

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art / LEISURE

F

or one month, diners were treated to art appreciation for the senses of sight, smell and taste, as the gallery brought the work of four of its resident artists to the walls of the restaurant, perfectly complemented by a uniquely crafted menu, inspired by the shapes, textures and colours on display.

Artistically innovative cuisine featured included banana leaf wrapped masala foie gras, served with grape coulis, kumquat marmalade and curry leaf caviar, rechado spiced scallops with mango and cilantro ceviche and Solkadi foam, as well as pepper fried tiger prawns accompanied by fennel and spinach salad, Virgin Mary sorbet and green apple wafer.

XVA, established in 2003, is one of the leading galleries in the Middle East that specializss in contemporary art from the Arab world, Iran and the Subcontinent. Exhibitions focus on works by the region’s foremost artists as well as those emerging onto the scene. The works that were displayed in Ananta featured artists from around the world, including Halim Al Karim (Iraqi), Mukesh Shah (British Indian), Prageeth Manohansa (Sri Lankan), and Imran Channa (Pakistani).

ABOUT THE ARTISTS Halim Al Karim Born in Iraq in 1963, Al Karim has held many solo exhibitions in Dubai, Paris, Holland, Switzerland, Istanbul, USA, Jordan and Lebanon. The artist was nominated for the 2010 Sovereign Art Prize and was awarded the jury prize in the International Cairo Biennale in Egypt. He is one of the six artists whose work was featured in the Iraqi Pavilion at the 54th Venice Biennale ‚Äì the first Iraqi Pavilion in 36 years. His work is in the collections of major museums including the Arab Museum of Contemporary Art in Doha, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Saatchi Collection in London, Darat Al Funun in Amman, L’Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, the Mori Art Museum in Tokyo, Artron Art Museum in China and Yinchaun MoCA in China. He lives and works in Dubai and Colorado.

Mukesh Shah Born in Aden and educated at Eton College and Cambridge University, Shah lives in Dubai and London. He says: “To create is to be defiant and have purpose in an indifferent universe where the search for meaning is absurd. The way I work is to mull an idea, sometimes for years, before instinctive discovery of the work through doing. My language comprises mark making, icons, repetition - geometrically - and chance expressed via paint, collage, typography, neon and every day or found objects.”

Prageeth Manohansa A name closely affiliated with assembled works of art. Manohansa began work as an artist creating masks and God statues made with old car parts. He has since built a name for himself internationally. His work has been exhibited and belongs to collections worldwide.

The sustainable art that Manohansa creates appeals to a variety of art appreciators, not only for their sensitivity to movement and form but their changing nature as outdoor and indoor sculptures.

Imran Channa A contemporary artist currently living and working in Lahore. Channa's multimedia work draws on recent history as a subject matter; politics and human nature, with a specific interest in the role of the media in all its forms and perceptions of memory - the main focus of his recent works. Channa has exhibited throughout South Asia and the Middle East, was a finalist for the Sovereign Art Prize in 2010 and in 2011 travelled to London for three months where he was the recipient of the Gasworks Residency programme.

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December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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LEISURE / travel

Paris-the city for (food) lovers Whether it's a hot chocolate and croissant as a snatched breakfast at a 'zinc' cafe or a silver service dinner at a Left Bank brasserie, or all the other eating opportunities in between; there's nowhere quite like Paris if you love food. Time to plan a gourmet break?

W

hen Hemingway described Paris as "a moveable feast" he wasn't imagining a day spent wandering the streets in seach of great food, but the idea seems irresistible to me. Paris is, of course, a city of culture, a city for lovers and a shining city on the hill for artists and writers. Okay, been there, done that. Now, what's to eat?

There's an argument that Lyon is the gastronomic heart of France, but Paris is the place that counts: for ambitious chefs in search of Michelin stars, for retailers of specialist produce, for the gastro- intelligentsia and, of course, for simple lovers of French food.

So, eating in Paris is a food lover's delight, right?

Well, sadly, not always.

Let us guide you through the things to avoid and the things to embrace when eating in Paris, plus give you some ideas for one of the most exciting Paris holidays - renting a self-catering apartment and cooking like a Parisian. So, to table.

How can you eat badly in Paris? The quickest

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

way of eating badly in Paris is to be a tourist. Sure, like any major city, there are lots of poor places to eat and you'd shun them in Paris as you would in London or Melbourne and, equally, you'll tut-tut like the rest of us at the growth of 'le fast food' and McDo culture.

No, the places to avoid are the busy restaurants near all the key spots - hey, full of diners, so must be okay, right? Actually, I don't think so and my two absolute commandments of Parisian dining are to walk quickly past any restaurant offering a multi-language menu or a menu with photos of the dishes. You may have a decent meal, but why take the risk of a bad one - besides, who wants to eat in Paris surrounded by loud groups of tourists reliving their morning at the Louvre?

And, talking of the Louvre, the food court there is absolutely the number one place to avoid - it is unbelievably bad.

The reason for shunning tourist spots - and number one amongst these I count the ChampsElysees, which acts as a magnet for tourists - is

simply that the majority of customers are onemeal wonders. They eat, they move on and they don't return. If you were a restaurateur with that clientele, would you focus on developing stunning food or on maximising your proďŹ ts? Exactly.

Next guarantee for a bad meal is to eat like an American - apologies here to my American friends!

By that, I mean trying to eat as if you're back home - demanding menu substitutions, drinking CocaCola and speaking too loudly in English. The reason why Parisians have the reputation of being badmannered is precisely because so many tourists are incredibly obnoxious in their behaviour. Behave like them and you'll eat badly - it's as simple as that!

Finally, remember that the pricey drink at a cafĂŠ is buying you real estate not just the drink - you are welcome to sit and watch the world go by for an hour or more for the price of a coffee or glass of wine.

The secret of eating well in Paris lies in eating like a Parisian. Rule number two - unless you have a serious medical condition, do not ask for

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travel / LEISURE

MY SECRET ADDRESSES

substitutions on a set menu. Every restaurant will have daily menus, based on the chef's whim and the best buys from the market: if the fish course is sole meuniere then don‚' ask for truite amandine, order from the a la carte menu instead it's as simple as that.

Firstly, understand that to the French in general and Parisians in particular, food is a very serious business. It is something to be savoured, enjoyed and lingered over. That's partly why seeing people eating as they walk in the streets is unusual; that's certainly why you should never, ever try to catch one last 'quick' lunch on a Sunday with frequent glances at your watch as check-in time at the airport approaches.

And, most of all, food is a communal pleasure; although in my experience solitary, serious diners are always treated with respect.

So here is your number one lesson: look on dining as a serious process run by professionals and you'll get the greatest benefit and pleasure.

For a start, the maitre d' and the waiting staff

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Okay, I've had my arm twisted. Nothing works in Paris better than personal recommendation, so here are the places in Paris I return to again and again, in no particular order. And, if I can't find a seat in the future...

I'm a complete sucker for the classic Parisian brasserie - old-fashioned decor, classic menus, magically professional service. Wepler is one of the best and I've been a fan since I saw a queue of Parisians collecting giant shellfish platters one Christmas morning. Onion soup, bouillabaise and sauerkraut are classic or go wild with crayfish in cherry sauce. Wepler, 14 place de Clichy, 18e.

A new favourite I was drawn by news of a redesign by Philippe Starck this is a great spot for a fast and stylish pause. The menu swings between healthy: fresh juices and sinful: ice cream with fudge and dark chocolate. Paradis de Fruit, 47 ave Georges V, 8e.

Amazing art and great food, Georges at the Centre Pompidou is still one of the capital's hot tables some years after opening, helped in part by great views over the city as much as its world cuisine and funky decor. Georges Centre Pompidou, Level 6, place Pompidou, 4e.

The French don't do fusion food very well, but they celebrate their colonial past at this Vietnamese restaurant. Popular and reasonably priced with a great neighbourhood vibe. Coin des Gourmets, 39 rue Mont Thabor, 1e.

Think a bouillon is just a soup? Think again, it's also the word for the classic workers' soup kitchen and, thankfully, Chartier keeps the tradition alive. A protected interior, magnificently gruff service and astonishingly cheap meals - three courses and a bottle of house red for under Euro 20! Chartier, 7 rue de Fauborg-Montmartre, 9e.

Somewhat overshadowed in many people's minds for a long time by the iconic Café des Deux Magots opposite, this classic brasserie is

now delivering again on its promise of great food, served quickly and impeccably. Just watching the waiters at work is a pleasure.

Brasserie Lipp, 151 bvd Saint-Germain, 6e.

A friendly neighbourhood bistro that is usually my first stop in Paris. Dependable, great shellfish and unhurried atmosphere despite the crowds. A favourite for many chefs. Don't miss the fully laid table stuck upside down on the ceiling - don't ask why! Le Ballon des Ternes, 103 avenue des Ternes, 17e.

This place you'll either love or hate. Eat family-style on communal tables on cheap classic fare, serving yourself from the stove and picking wine from the racks around the small space. A big hit with a number of leading American food critics. La Cave de l'Os a Moellee, 181 rue de Lormel, 15e.

If you follow Chef Gagnaire's shopping advice (see next page) then you'll be drawn to the Iena street market. If you're a fan of Princess Diana then you'll be drawn to the Pont d'Alma and her memorial. Either way, stop for lunch at this informal and (for the area) reasonable seafood place, next door to the more upscale Marius et Janette. On a sunny day, it feels like the south of France, despite the glimpses of the Eiffel Tower throiugh the trees! Go for the daily specials. Le Petit Marius, 6 avenue George V, 8e.

Finally, a real find, so please leave a seat for me! A tiny fishmonger close to the Saint Honore market but right at the back, past the stunningly fresh displays, are half a dozen seats and a seagull soundtrack. Tiny menu, amazing food, fascinating ambience. The fishmongers are happy to chat but they're usually run off their feet by hordes of hungry shoppers. Great for a light lunch and the Jardin des Tuileries is a couple of minutes away for a lazy afternoon. L'Ecume Saint Honore, 6 rue du Marche Saint Honore, 1e.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

45

LEISURE / travel

TOP CHEF’S TOP TIPS Chef Pierre Gagnaire manages to straddle with ease the twin horses of eminence grise of the Emirates' restaurant scene (with his Reflets in the Dubai Festival City InterContinental now recognised as one of the top ten restaurants in the world) and enfant terrible of the French avant garde food scene (albeit with four Michelin stars for his Parisian outlets). Perhaps more importantly, he is a man of passion and of a relentless drive for quality. Who better then to ask for advice on eating out in his adopted city?

What for you represents the essence of eating badly in Paris?

A sandwich on the Champs-Elysees. However, there are good places nearby – not just my restaurant! You know, some places in Paris are now impossible. If you want to see Montmatre, go at 5am - after that, impossible.

So how should one choose a good restaurant?

I think some planning is required. Look, the best places, they don't really change - chefs stay a long time, so you can think ahead and, of course, make your reservations ahead of time from Dubai. For the smaller addresses, it is a little more work. A single review - well, the critic may have had one extra glass of wine, the owner's wife may have smiled at him, they're human. So I would suggest taking three guides - Michelin, Lebey and Pudlo Paris - and look for a convergence of opinion. But in Paris you must remember that quality is not cheap and fashion can be very expensive!

Do you have favourite addresses?

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

To be very honest with you, I don't eat out very often. Yes, I do have places I return to surprisingly, perhaps, they may not have the most amazing food, but they are very Parisian.

So Le Dome (14e) is nice and very French. Fogon (6e) serves the most fantastic Spanish food - the paella... Some Asian places - I like the Enjoy sushi bar (17e) for the family atmosphere and there's a Korean place in Trocadero too. Great Italian food at Casa Bini (6e) also.

An enthusiastic chef comes to Paris. Where would you advise they go for their produce?

Start with the market - Marche Iena, for example, on avenue du President Wilson (16e). Choose your vegetables here, you'll find produce from Paris’ most famous gardener, Joel Thiebault.

Amazing quality! For wine, Caves Taillevent or Caves Auge are both extremely good (both 8e).

Meat? I would pick Boucherie Hugo Desnoye (14e) - extraordinary. Fish? Poissonerie du Dome (14e) is the best in Paris, it is absolute quality and absolute freshness. Bread from Poilane (3e) and cheese from Fromage Rouge (14e), which is the very best place for cheese in Paris. Or I'd suggest Marie-Anne Cantin (7e) or Alleosse (17e), which is in the rue Poncelet market that I enjoy very much.

I would also suggest any chef goes to Bon Marche (7e) - you can find all the produce you want there.

If we gave you one place, one taste, one dish, one experience to sum up what Paris means to you in terms of food, what would it be? Well, of course I do not know everything! What to choose? I think something as simple and as Parisian as this: a plate of oysters! No, a large assiette de fruits de mer!

That's Paris for me...

treat their job as a real career and they take pride in what they do, so respect them. Don't make the schoolboy mistake of snapping your fingers and calling out "garcon!", for example. Entering a restaurant, make eye contact, be polite, throw in a "Monsieur"and take the opportunity of being shown to your table as a good moment to demonstrate that this is part of a process in which you understand the rules.

Want to sit outside? Of course. Want to have a view of the room from the banquette? Just say so.

And, when the menu arrives, at least have thought if you want a pre-meal drink, because that will be the first automatic question. Don't dither. If you just want water, don't be afraid to ask for "un carafe d'eau" instead of pricey bottled water.

You're the customer and, if you demonstrate your knowledge of the game, then you'll get great service.

Next, ask questions. Professional staff will delight in responding to them How is this dish prepared?

What wine would you recommend? And so on.

You may find, in some restaurants, that the tables are set very close together. This does not mean that you have to intertract with your neighbours - a slight nod as you sit down and perhaps a quiet "Bon appetit" when their main

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travel / LEISURE

"I eat at Clos des Gourmets two or three times a week when I'm in Paris. They only use seasonal ingredients and always add a touch of wackiness to very classic dishes. I suppose it's new classic french cuisine. Unbelievable."

- Michel Roux Sr. courses arrive is more than enough. They will respect your privacy also.

So where will you find the perfect meal?

I have a simple rule of thumb, developed over two or three visits to Paris a year since I was in my early 20s: 30% of your meals should see you return to places you really enjoy, 30% should be recommendations and 30% should be fortuitous finds. The other 10%? A picnic, a quick sandwich in a bar or clutching your over-worked stomach on your hotel bed...

Finding new places to eat is simple. Before anything, get yourself the latest Michelin guide to Paris restaurants - as well as the starred establishments, the fertile hunting ground is what is known as the Bib' restaurants, named after

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Bibendum, the Michelin tyre-man mascot. These are smaller, cheaper, great quality places often opened by chefs who trained with a master but see no immediate opportunity of running a 3-star place. Frequently out of the way, they may offer great regional food, for example.

Next, check the press and Internet (www. lefooding.com is great) for the new openings, but be prepared to fight half of Paris for seats if the place is hot. Ask friends who've been to Paris recently to suggest places they like - I'm sharing a number of my favourites for you in a box out on page 45, which may help. Lastly, keep your eyes open. If you are sightseeing and are hungry, then walk a street or two away from the tourist joints and see what you can find.

Think of the way Paris works - wherever there's a food market, there will be interesting options.

Finally, remember that the pricey drink at a café is buying you real estate not just the drink - you are welcome to sit and watch the world go by for an hour or more for the price of a coffee or glass of wine.

If you are on the Michelin star trail, note that many of the major chefs have more than one outlet - by eating at, for example, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon instead of La Table, you'll get the master's touch but still have some Euros left in your wallet! And many fine dining restaurants are now offering special, more affordable menus at different times in response to economic downturn do your internet research before you arrive in Paris.

Once you've been to Paris a couple of times and got the feel of the place, then as a food lover you'll be consumed by the frustration of being surrounded by amazing produce in the markets and shops, but unable to cook any of it. Pate or cheese on a baguette in your hotel room just doesn't satisfy your inner chef.

The answer is simple: take the plunge and, for your next trip, rent a self-catering apartment via www.parisattitude.com, for example.

December 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

47

LEISURE / last word

The Fat Duck migrates In a major move that staggers the brain in terms of the organisation involved, Heston Blumenthal is shifting The Fat Duck from Bray to Melbourne for six months next year.

A

ccording to Blumenthal, "Australia's response to the news that The Fat Duck would make Melbourne its home for six months has been absolutely overwhelming. I am utterly humbled by the reception." The 3rd of February 2015 has now been confirmed as the opening date and the reservation system is open.

In an unprecedented move for any restaurant, much less one with three Michelin stars, The Fat Duck will temporarily relocate to Melbourne almost in its entirety. Every bite of the multi course Tasting Menu, every whisper of nostalgia and emotion, every aspect of the flawless service and every team member will move half the world away and call Australia home for half a year. Even design pieces from the original building in Bray will make the journey.

And there is one addition to The Fat Duck that will be exclusive to Melbourne - a Chef's Table.

Multi-sensory dining will become super-sensory with the opportunity for diners to get an exclusive, behind-the-scenes glimpse. For a limited time during The Fat Duck's tenure, four guests per

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The Pro Chef Middle East / December 2014

service will be seated in front of the passe.

Heston Blumenthal first visited Australia in 2003 and his love for the country's beauty, diversity, produce and people was immediate. For over a decade, he had his eye on opening a restaurant there - now he’s found a way of doing it and, in order to accommodate demand in the most equitable way, a ballot process is utilised for all reservations. Anyone - anywhere in the world who would like to make a reservation at The Fat Duck in Melbourne will need to register for the ballot system. All available reservations for the restaurant's entire six-month visit to the Crown Melbourne Resort, including reservations for the Chef's Table, will be allocated through the ballot process. No further reservations will be added once successful applicants have been randomly selected and the ballot process is complete.

Following The Fat Duck's return home to the UK late September of 2015, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal will take up residence within Crown Melbourne Resort permanently, becoming the only restaurant the chef has in his portfolio outside of the UK.

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