The Pro Chef Middle East - July Issue, 2014 by The Pro Chef Middle East

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 29 JULY 2014

THE WIZARDS OF OZ | SCALING THE SUMMIT | THE FRENCH ACCENT | WINNING RECIPES | ISLAND FOOD

Contents

UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

PIMP MY PLATE Colin Clague, Executive Chef of Qbara, does his reinvention oa a vegetable thali.

FACE TO FACE Chef Hugo Randall delivers a contemporary take on the best Italian produce; meanwhile Chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez Hernandez, Head Chef of El Sur, builds on his with Ferran Adrià including a year at elBulli.

TRAVEL The Seychelles offer a real fusion taste for the curious traveller and, speaking to Seychellois Executive Chef of the Enchanted Island Resort, Ulric Denis, we discover the purity and uniqueness of food options available.

THE LAST WORD One food blogger’s latest creation is a one of a kind snack that represents the English alphabet in food items from A to Z. Nick Chipman of Dude Foods cooked up the Alphabet Sandwich, piled high with 26 toppings that each represent a different letter!

EDITORIAL A new trend in the US could impact us all as so-called Millenials - roughly deﬁned as young adults aged between 18 to 33 - have over the last few years slowed their visits to restaurants and that should worry any restaurant owner.

EDITORIAL BOARD Our industry colleagues who help guide The Pro Chef Middle East.

OUT AND ABOUT A look back at this year’s Aperitif a la française plus two days of our very own Hospitality Business Summit. Finally, can IHG bring a personal touch to the global traveller? It enlists Chef Pierre Gagnaire to try.

www.cpimediagroup.com

THE EGGS FACTOR We talk to David Cagle, Head Chef of St Tropez Bistro, and ﬁnd out why his work environment of classic French dishes changes to an Italian mood when he gets home. COUNTRY FOCUS It’s big and it’s meaty! The taste for Australian produce is on the increase and we ﬁnd three patriotic Ozzie chefs to shout its praises.

KITCHEN SKILLS| Perfect gnoccchi every time, courtesy of Chef Juri Pelusi, Executive Chef of Lounge Café Italiano.

RECIPE CORNER Great new dishes and mocktails to experiment with.

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRONT / editor’s letter

Changing dining habits A serious new trend in the US will, to be sure, spread to other countries: the impact of so-called Millenials on the future of the dining sector. Roughly defined as young adults aged between 18 to 33, Millennials have over the last few years slowed their visits to restaurants and that should worry any restaurant owner. They do, after all, make up a quarter of the US population with close to $1.5b in spending power. And although the common perception of them veers between ‘stupid’ and ‘entitled’, a recent survey by RBC Capital Markets shows that Millenials are drawn to fresh ingredients and have a penchant for ordering on-line or through mobile apps. Although the impact of their changing behaviour will most likely be felt by casual chains like Wendy’s or Starbucks, declining visits to restaurants will impact the whole industry. Over the last seven years, this group has apparently cut back on restaurant visits by over 20%. Not serious? Look at the impact on Burger King in the US: over the same period, its overall traffic increased by 4% by traffic by low-income Millenials decreased by 5% and traffic by high-income Millenials by 16%. The pattern repeats in other similar chains, with one especially worrying trend: the drop off in casual dining by high-income Millenials is running at a faster rate. And that’s impacting small chains and independent restaurants as badly. The brands that are weathering this storm share two things in common: they have a strong digital presence and they invest in quality ingredients.In other words, back to basics instead of flashy advertising and non-stop promotions. What is curious perhaps is that major brands like McDonald’s or Dunkin Donuts don’t even have a smart phone app - they clearly should follow the lead of Starbucks and improve digital engagement. How soon will we see these new realities in this region? Clearly there’s already a major shift in the sector with smart casual being the flavour of the year plus a focus by an increasingly visible part of the market stressing ingredient quality. It will be interesting to see how it plays out, given the high proportion of young, reasonably paid expats in town.

CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER DOMINIC DE SOUSA CEO NADEEM HOOD COO GINA O’HARA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 50 450 6745 GROUP DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL PAUL GODFREY GROUP MANAGING EDITOR MELANIE MINGAS melanie.mingas@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 56 758 7834 EDITOR DAVE REEDER ASSISTANT EDITOR SOPHIE MCCARRICK sophie.mccarrick@cpimediagroup.com D: +971 4 4409150 SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR GROUP DIRECTOR OF SALES CAROL OWEN DIRECTOR OF SALES, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANKIT SHUKLA ankit.shukla@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 55 257 2807 SALES MANAGER RAVI SHANKAR ravi.shankar@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 56 7911328 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION JAMES THARIAN WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA DISTRIBUTION MANAGER ROCHELLE ALMEIDA SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY

Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2014 CPI, All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein.

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1k cremini mushrooms, quartered 300g yellow onions, chopped 150g garlic cloves, chopped 200ml olive oil 2 tbsp Italian herbs, dry 1 tbsp salt 1 tbsp black pepper 700g U.S. Pepper Jack cheese, shredded 15g ﬂat leaf parsley, minced Pasta sheets, thawed (or your own fresh house-made sheets)

Pre-heat convection oven to 200 C. Place mushrooms and onion in a large bowl. In small bowl mix garlic, olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper; pour mixture over mushrooms and toss well. Place mixture on sheet pans in a single layer. Roast for 10 minutes; decrease oven temperature to 140 C and roast for another 30 minutes. Take mushroom mixture, chop ﬁne and chill. When chilled, mix in cheese and parsley. Place 10g of mixture into each ravioli and seal tightly. Filled ravioli can be steamed or boiled; they can be fresh frozen on parchment paper for later use.

U.S. cheese is already available in your market, check today with your local importer/distributor or contact USDEC for a list of local suppliers: USDEC Middle East (AMFI) • Beirut, Lebanon • Email: amfime@cyberia.net.lb • Phone: (961-1) 74378, 741223 The U.S. Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a free resource to help you find additional information on U.S. cheese applications and distribution channels. We are a non-profit, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of U.S. dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders.

UP FRONT / editorial board

Meet the board

The Pro Chef Middle East is keen to serve its readership by addressing those areas of key interest, To help that task, we have invited a number of respected and experienced members of the F&B world to form an editorial board to help guide us into the future.

BOBBY KRISHNA TM PRINCIPAL FOOD STUDIES AND SURVEYS OFFICER FOOD CONTROL DEPARTMENT DUBAI MUNICIPALITY Indian-born Bobby Krishna brings a real passion to his job enforcing food hygiene and safety regulations to the F&B sector in Dubai.

MARC GICQUEL Regional Director of Food & Beverage, Arabian Peninsula Hilton Worldwide Born and educated in France, Marc Gicguel has wide experience of different parts of the F&B sector, from Disneyland Resort Paris to Jumeirah Restaurants and Nestle Professional before joining Hilton Worldwide.

CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER Corporate Director Culinary Jumeirah Group Austrian-born Christian Gradnitzer moved a couple of years back from kitchens to management and is now a key element in Jumeirah RnB’s plan to establish Jumeirah Group as a leading operator of successful restaurants and bars globally.

MICHAEL KITTS Director of Culinary Arts and Executive Chef The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management UK chef Michael Kitts’ career has combined distinguished work in kitchens, global competition success and a major focus on mentoring younger chefs, all of which make his currenty job an ideal ﬁt.

UWE MICHEEL Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek President, Emirates Culinary Guild German chef Uwe Micheel is a highly visible member of the regional F&B scene with two decades of experience in the Gulf and a key role in driving the success of UAE-based chefs at culinary competitions worldwide.

MARK PATTEN Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Atlantis, The Palm Dubai In place at Atlantis since pre-opening in 2007, Australian native Mark Patten has had a highly successful and celebrated career across the world. He now oversees more than 400 chefs and numerous outlets at the resort.

SAMANTHA WOOD FooDiva A distinguished ex-Hilton PR executive, British-Cypriot Samantha Wood now combines food journalism, hospitality consulting and the highly acclaimed FooDiva food blog.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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UP FRONT / out and about

A (savoir) faire of ﬂavour Bringing together chefs, industry professionals and food lovers to celebrate the ﬁnest French F&B products in the region, the tenth annual Apéritif à la française was held in Dubai last month to wide acclaim.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

Under the patronage of HE Michel Miraillet, the French Ambassador to the UAE, Apéritif à française is organised annually by SOPEXA, the International Food & Lifestyle Marketing Agency, and supported by the French Ministry of Agriculture to promote French gastronomy and art de vivre in the UAE. "It is a wonderful opportunity to bring together the public and private sectors, brands and trade

organisations to showcase the best of France’s food and beverage industry‚" according to Edwina Salvatori, Marketing Manager, SOPEXA Middle East. France is a major players in supplying high quality food and beverage products to the UAE - a country where France has increased its overall food exports by 18% in 2013 versus 2012. The strong GDP growth and the increasing per capita income are expected to drive food consumption further in the UAE as well as the wider GCC food market by 6% per annum. Yassine Rami, Managing Director, SOPEXA Middle East, “conﬁdently expects French brands to carry on their development by expanding their market shares and beneﬁting from the very positive growth trend in the years to come". The annual event is named after the popular French tradition of the apéritif, where friends gather in a convivial atmosphere, tasting local products and new gastronomic experience. "The concept of Apéritif is an attitude and an art of living; bringing people together and allowing them to connect and network around typical French food and beverages," explains Edwina Salvatori. Traditionally organised as an evening of networking, product sampling and tasting, Apéritif à la française in Dubai connected partner brands with on-trade professionals, importers and retailers

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out and about / UP FRONT

TREATS ON OFFER! Since the French are very engaged with the aesthetics of their food, there was an artistic and large mouth-watering display of dairy products, breads, fruits, chocolates, biscuits, seafood, meat, ďŹ ne groceries, syrups plus a wide selection of beverages including tea, bottled water, syrups, lemonades and more. All in a very authentic French atmosphere.

brought together for the event in Dubai with the objective of boosting their brand exposure among key market players and taking full advantage of commercial opportunities in the UAE.The ďŹ rst consumer ApĂŠritif Ă la franĂ§aise is planned for this October.

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Here are some of the snacks on offer: t #SJEPS BTTPSUFE DBOBQFT BOE NJOJ sandwiches. t &MMF 7JSF #BCB 4BWBSJO .JMMFGFVJMMFT Tiramisu, Cremes brulĂŠes and Saint Honiore. t #POHSBJO .FEJUFSSBOFBO TUZMF UPBTUT BOE gourmet brochettes. t 7BMSIPOB -BDUĂ?F DBMJTTPO BOE 4BMWBUSJDF t #BEPJU .JOFTUSPOF XJUI #BEPJU BOE 4USBXCFSSZ CBTJM #BEPJU t .BJMMF .BJMMF DJEFS WJOFHBS NPDLUBJM BOE NJOJ DIFFTFDBLFT XJUI .BJMMF IPOFZ mustard.

t 1BZTBO #SFUPO $IPDPMBUF BOE CVUUFS UBSUMFU and crepes. t 3FHJMBJU .JML JDF DSFBN XJUI MJRVJE nitrogen. t /JOB T (BUFBV .BSJF "OUPJOFUUF t #FVSBMJB .VTISPPN DSFBN BOE #FFG stroganoff vol au vents. t .POJO 4USBXCFSSZ HJOHFS DBJSQSJOIB BOE 1BTTJPO TQSJU[ t 4BSSBEF 1BO TFBSFE GPJF HSBT BOE (SJMMFE NBHSFU PG EVDL XJUI IPOFZ HMB[F t %FMJHPVSNFU 1FUJU TBMĂ? XJUI HBSMJD TBVTBHF BOE %VDL DSFBN BOE mH DIVUOFZ t 1BVM 'PDDBDJBT BOE BTTPSUNFOU PG CSFBET t 0QFSB (PVSNFU *DF DSFBNT FDMBJST BOE choux. t #BS B $IPVY 4USBXCFSSZ IJCJTDVT BOE 1BTTJPO GSVJU t #BS B &DMBJST (SFFO UFB #MVFCFSSZ BOE %BSL chocolate.

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRONT / out and about

The Hospitality Business Summit Bringing restaurants, hotels and business professionals together, last month saw the gathering of more than 300 hospitality industry professionals for The Hospitality Business Summit hosted by The Pro Chef ME and Hospitality Business ME at the Dusit Thani Dubai, to discuss a broad range of issues and opportunities in the industry, from food hygiene, kitchen design and staff retention. The unique event provided leaders from the region’s hotel and restaurant sector to come together to identify, debate and act on trends they foresee shaping the coming years, particularly in approach to Expo 2020.

Jason Myers, group F&B MD of Jumeirah Restaurants, Jumeirah Group; Christian Gradnitzer, Corporate Culinary Director, Silvena Rowe, Chef Patron and

Jumeirah Group; and Gert Kopera, Senior

Owner, Omnia by Silvena.

VP, RnB, Jumeirah Group.

Celebrity chef Silvena Rowe revealed that she aims to launch her new restaurant ‘Omnia by Silvena’ by the tail-end of Ramadan. Offering ‘guilt-free indulgent eating’, the new outlet will promote strong Arabic inﬂuences in its food and atmosphere. “Omnia by Silvena Rowe will celebrate alluring, seductive food in a glamourous but rustic atmosphere, incorporating the wholesome feel of Arabic cuisine. I’ve developed a completely new Arabic menu for this restaurant, which is very strongly inﬂuenced by home-style Emirati cooking, however my team will be creating dishes using western, modern techniques,” explained Rowe.

Jumeirah’s top F&B executives announced during their keynote that the group’s ﬂagship authentic Mexican restaurant brand, Tortuga, could be introduced in Asia and London. Revealing plans to expand Jumeirah’s F&B footprint beyond its hotels and take established UAE-based F&B brands to a global market, the trio discussed Jumeirah’s Restaurant Group brand, TRG, under which the group will separate its F&B operations from its hotel accommodation brands. TRG is actively in discussion with a number of local hotel groups to manage their F&B operations under a white label arrangement. Their plans depend on splitting P&L from a hotel's control.

SPONSORS

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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out and about / UP FRONT

Chef Uwe Micheel, Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek and President, Emirates Culinary Guild; Chef Gabriele Kurtz, Executive Wellbeing Chef Talise Nutrition, Jumeirah Group; and Samantha Wood, FooDiva.

Whilst consumers are drawn to oraganic fare and farmers’ markets, that enthusiasm is not always mirrored by their food choices when dining out. What should chefs do? Chef Micheel explained at his hotel that, despite an increasing number of healthier choices, all too often diners were drawn to fried food. A chef has to respect a diner’s choices and not lecture. Chef Kurtz said that healthier choices might be more expensive but that, in the long run, a healthier body was the only way forward. And F&B industry commentator FooDiva ran through some of the trends she sees in the market, as well as some she’d love to break here in the region - a Peruvian restaurant, anyone?

Sudeshna Ghosh, Editor, BBC Good Food Middle East; Brinda Hora, Associate Director of Communications & Marketing, InterContinental Dubai Festival City; Samantha Wood, FooDiva; and Tariq Sanad, Managing Director, Lime&Tonic.

The future is deﬁnitely digital, the panel concluded, although reservations were expressed about the rise of the citizen critic and unquantiﬁed blogger.

Andy Cuthbert, General Manager C&I, Madinat Jumeirah;

Dave Shannon, senior consultant, TSI UAE; Sunjeh Raja,

Sebastian Nohse, Executive Chef, JW Marriott Marquis; Michael

director and CEO, ICCA; Brian Morrison, Commercial Manager,

Kitts, Director of Culinary Arts, The Emirates Academy of

JM Foods; Dr Joanne Taylor, Training and Research Director,

Hospitality Management; Frank Noack, Cluster Executive Chef,

TSI UK; Ghida Sarieddine, Hygiene and Quality Manager,

Hilton Dubai; Reif Othman, Executive Chef, Zuma; and Dave

Royal Catering; and Muhammad Khalid Saeed, Senior Health

Reeder, Editorial Director, The Pro Chef ME.

Inspector, Dubai Municipality.

Local and internal recruitment are key to staff retention, while ever-growing competition in salary scales could be the most detrimental factor for hotels and restaurants looking to grow a loyal staff, the panel of industry leaders revealed. Nohse commented: “Looking out for traits in a candidate such as loyalty, sincerity and quality from the start of the recruitment process is key to retaining staff. Hiring from Dubai’s internal market allows us easy access to face to face interviews, and hands on testing with candidates.” Noack said: “Take into consideration that Gen-Y has a major effect on staff retention.”

Taking a look into the world of changing hospitality hygiene regulations, Dr Joanne Taylor admitted that she believes hotels are losing money by supporting food sampling as it “doesn’t add any value, nor is it reliable”. Taylor explained that across the Middle East standards and sampling speciﬁcations vary, creating an inconsistency and the question “How do you know you’re testing the right criteria?” Suggesting an alternative to sampling, Taylor said that companies should be focusing more on standardisation and the day to day practices happening in their kitchens.

Etienne Haro, Director of F&B, Fairmont Dubai; Chef Tom

Chef Max Grenard, Culinary Director, Dubai Golf; Daniel

Roger, private chef; and Willi Elsener, Managing Director,

During, Head, Thomas Klein Group; and Carlos Hannon, Chef

Bespoke Concepts.

Patron, Tortuga.

Discussing the importance of functional kitchen design, the panel concluded that when a design is not done correctly, it can detrimentally effect a restaurants success. Etienne Haro said: “Particularly in this region, because of the growing trend and popularity of using celebrity, top-end designers, many kitchens are being designed beautifully, but not logically. These designers work with concept, not practicality.” As space in Dubai comes at a premium and investors want to maximise proﬁtability by making as much operational space for guests as possible, kitchen space generally becomes smaller.

The panel discussed how a clear concept and appropriate design could impact the proﬁtability and success of a new restaurant. Chef Grenard explained how, despite a believe that Dubai Golf outlets are directed purely at golfers, a new look at design and restaurant concepts had increased non-golf diners. Daniel During claimed that in many cases, design lagged behind concept and that discussions between all team members was critical. Chef Hannon revealed how a belief in authenticity ﬂowed thropugh Tortuga’s menu and its design, creating a single concept.

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July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRONT / out and about

The sponsors' view

“A good event and well worth attending. I believe we have got two students out of attending so very much worth our while.”

“We were promoting our company proﬁle and the services/solutions we provide in line with the rebranding of our corporate identity to the targeted attendance group of the event. The attendance level was good and the proﬁle of attendees was in line with the event topic and our target group. There was a good mix of seniority levels and several key positions of the leading outlets in the industry were represented.”

Anouk Tenten Partnership Manager Glion Institute of Higher Education

Brian Morrison Commercial Manager JM Foods

“Firstly, thanks to CPI for letting us be a part of HBS. It was important for us to tap the Dr Beckmann product into the Horreca side of business where we can build awareness on the brand. This was a good place to begin, interact, market and build awareness on our product. There was positive interest from the attendees on our range of products and it was a good platform to meet like minded people and build business relations.” Mohammed Safwan Mani Assistant Product Manager Sara Trident Emirates (Dr Beckmann)

“The overall impression on the HBS was really good and positive. We were impressed with the organisation, professionalism and level of attendees. I have found most of the panels very interesting for us, being new in this part of the world. It was actually the ﬁrst big event as sponsors in Dubai and I am sure we will deﬁnitely think about attending next year. We were promoting our wide range of catering services addressed to large entities such as hospitals, schools and company canteens, with a special emphasis on big events: an increasing demand in Middle East. Our aim is to bring the know-how acquired in Italy during the last forty years and conveying them to UAE and other emerging markets.” Giordana Attilio Marketing Manager EP World Catering Facility Management SPONSORS

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

www.cpimediagroup.com

UP FRONT / out and about

Connecting in 3D As global hotel groups jostle to position themselves apart from their rivals, InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) has launched a ‘3D Connected Traveller Series': three dynamic events designed to bring to life the themes of IHG's latest trends report which suggests hotels need to deliver a global, local and personalised experience. In other words, ‘moments of trust’.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

With Dubai chosen as one of three global locations by IHG to deliver a new delivery of interactive events - alongside New York City and China - the hotel group used its star restaurant Reﬂets par Pierre Gagnaire and the acclaimed chef himself for a discussion and then specially created lunch around the theme of ‘Global Appetite, Local Taste', which explored the dichotomy of delivering local authenticity whilst maintaining the comfort of global consistency. Led by Phil Broad, IHG’s VP for F&B, Asia, Middle East and Africa, the discussion focused on ‘global coherence’ and the challenge of providing both consistency and personalisation across the 40 countries and 800 restaurants in Broad’s portfolio. As Emirati social TV entrepreneur Peyman Al Awadhi explained, “People want the exotic together with what they know’. Chef Gagnaire put it a little more strongly. “In essence 3-star restaurants receive people from all over the world so globalisation is not new to us. In my main restaurant in Paris, for example, 60% of diners are from overseas. And in every country where I operate, we try to have a feel for the local culture and pay tribute to it, combining that with our technical skills and my creativity. For me, hotels like this one are incredible places that bring people together. So the importance is the three pillars of

what we provide: global, personal and intimacy.” According to Karin Sheppard, IHG’s Chief Commercial Ofﬁcer for Asia, Middle East and Africa, "This series of innovative events will explore a key truth about global travellers today: that most want authentic and exciting experiences as well as the comforts of home, wherever in the world they are. They expect global brands to be able to deliver this with consistency. IHG is pleased to bring together innovators and captains of industry in each of these three international destinations to explore how global brands can best cater to tomorrow's travellers." And today's travellers believe the global can be personal as well as expect it. 56% of travellers surveyed said they expect a hotel to tailor the experience they have to their personal needs.

“All trips give me a certain view of gastronomy and the role of a restaurant in a hotel.” - Chef Pierre Gagnaire

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UP FRONT / the eggs factor

A taste of France - or Italy Although Chef David Cagle, Head Chef of St Tropez Bistro, spends his work life transforming classic French dishes into contemporary versions, when heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at home the mood changes to Italian. We open the door and take a look at whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in his fridge.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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the eggs factor / UP FRONT

hef David Cagle started cooking from the age of 14. He came from a family of ten where ‘if you are hungry, cook for yourself’ was instilled in all family members. He trained in classic French cuisine. Now with almost two decades of culinary experience under his wing, he can look back on experience at various ﬁne dining and Michelinstarred restaurants as well as achieving 3 stars along the way. He started working at Michelinstarred Cameron House at the age of 19, from where he moved on to the Glasgow Art Club, followed by the Carlton George Hotel, Rosette Hotel, The Restaurant Bar & Grill Glasgow and, most recently, worked for Waﬁ Restaurants before

joining St Tropez Bistro. Chef Cagle believes that consistency and team work are the prime keys to a successful restaurant. When each member of the kitchen is trained well to perform the task he has been hired to do and the whole team works in synchronisation, the food standards are always consistent and best results are delivered. He also believes that every chef should have a special love for the dish they are cooking, ensuring that he is putting his everything in the dish to make it as delectable as possible. Finally, Chef Cagle has a fascination of using his knowledge of classic French dishes and twisting them to conjure up something exotic and contemporary.

SHOPPING TIPS “I love to shop at Spinneys as the products are always of a high standard, which as a chef is something I expect. However, my boys are fussy eaters and being a chef that is slightly frustrating but this is why I have to box in clever items that I store in my fridge.”

ge... What’s in my frid ese - Grana Padano che emade butter hom b - Garlic and her - Garlic sausage , h roast mushroom ma ham - used wit - Solero black Par s ht’ last nig e and Parmesan for garlic, crème fraich . ily fam twist’ with the 'Carbonara with a - Salted capers ent of flavour se add a great acc - Fresh capers - the to food! ta ingredient - an essential pas - Fresh anchovies e, to finish it all off on top of the fridg - Basil - growing ds of dishes es - added to all kin - Sun-dried tomato olives - Calamatri black

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FEATURES / country focus

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

www.cpimediagroup.com

country focus / FEATURES

With a reputation for rustic, earthly ‘bush tucker’ flavours, Australian cuisine in a nutshell brings hearty, wholesome cooking back to basics, offering fresh, uncontaminated, natural produce. The country’s vast landscape is abundant with cattle, placing meat and dairy at the core of an Australian diet and with the indigenous Australians surviving off the native flora and fauna in the outback’s bush for thousands of years, the region is home to an extensive range of unique vegetables and fruits. Plus fresh seafood - as the country is surrounded entirely by open waters, it offers a continuous supply of delicious fish and shellfish.

he ever-expanding Middle East market imports over 90% of its food requirements, so the trade partnership between MENA and Australia, a region with a small population and extensive production systems that operate year-round, is an obvious one, which appears to be generating further scope year on year. Delivering marketing and research and development services for Australia’s cattle, sheep and goat producers, MLA (Meat & Livestock Australia) creates opportunities for livestock supply chains looking to export produce from Australia, particularly to the Middle East. Exploring the trade relationship between Australia and the Middle East, Jamie Ferguson, Regional Manager, MENA, MLA explains that: “Australia has been exporting meat and livestock to the Middle East region for over 45 years. We have enjoyed growth and built strong and long lasting relationships with the local governments and food businesses throughout this time. Australia is well positioned to supply a wide range of quality red meat items to suit all facets of the market from manufacturing to the highest and most exclusive items only found in white table cloth restaurants.” Penetrating the Middle Eastern market, Dairy Australia visited Dubai last month to showcase some of its most recent developments in technology of dairy products from Australian exporters to Dubai including Murray Goulburn, Bega, Lemnos, Longwarry, Yarra Valley Dairy and Bulla. “Australian dairy has a strong reputation as the best in the world for safety, quality and taste. It is really important for the buyers and distributors of Australian dairy products to know intimately the unique aspects of our dairy,” says Sarah Xu, Dairy Australia’s international market manager. Dairy is the third largest agricultural sector in Australia after beef and wheat adding approximately A$13 billion to the Australian economy annually, and the country exports about 45% of its total milk production to over 120 countries around the world. The Middle East is an important region for Australia’s dairy exports, taking about 11% of total exports from Australia worth A$294 million in 2013.

Relationship between the Middle East and Australia has never been better and, with more daily ﬂights between the two destinations than ever before, it makes trade with the land down under very attractive. Australia’s varied climate offers availability of fresh produce all year. round. - Chef Justin Galea

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July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FEATURES / country focus

The chefs from OZ Originating from Australia and now based in the Middle East, we speak to three Aussie chefs: Stephen Wright, Executive Chef at Madinat Jumeirah’s Al Qasr and Dar Al Masyaf; Natalie Bolt, Head Chef at Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar, Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa; plus Justin Galea, Executive Chef at Le Royal Meridien Abu Dhabi. Is there demand for Australian produce in the Middle East? Chef Stephen Wright: Yes, especially in the lead up to Expo 2020 where the introduction of as many as 200 new hotels will increase

Chef Justin Galea

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The Th T he Pro Pro o Chef Cheff Middle Che Mid ddle dd e East Ea t / July Eas Julyy 2014 201 20 0 4

the amount of imports to Dubai. Australia is well known throughout the Middle East and other continents, because of our reputation for quality assured, clean, safe and healthy produce, but also particularly from our well-developed air and sea freight services that allow market and quality driven produce to arrive into Dubai in near perfect condition, maintaining freshness and taste. Chef Natalie Bolt: I think there is deﬁnitely a growing demand for quality produce in general and Australia is a key producer for high quality meat, seafood and fresh seasonal fruit and vegetables. Australia has developed a growing presence in international markets for its Angus and Wagyu steaks, lamb, Cofﬁn Bay oysters, Tasmanian salmon and ocean trout. It’s very exciting

Chef Stephen Wright

to see these items in the Middle East. I think what makes all our dishes special is the way in which we blend our produce with unique bush ﬂavours, which are not widely found in this part of the world. Chef Justin Galea: I feel the relationship between the Middle East and Australia has never been better and, with more daily ﬂights between the two destinations than ever before, it makes trade with the land down under very attractive. Australia’s varied climate offers availability of fresh produce all year round. What Australian products do your guests want to see here? Wright: Our guests at Madinat Jumeirah are particularly fond of quality of red meat products coming from Australia, in particular lamb and beef. With a change over the past decade in dining and market segments, Rangers Valley Wagyu beef and long-fed beef from Stockyard Australia, which we use in MJ’s Steakhouse in Al Qasr Hotel, are examples of the quality assurance that Australia represents. Bolt: Stockyard, Ranges Valley, Millawarra and WAMMCO beef and lamb products are in high demand from our guests. Galea: The easy answer would be the beef whether it’s Master Kobe Wagyu or a grass fed Black Angus, but for me the real star is the Australian seafood. In season Tasmanian salmon, Southern Rock lobster and abalone really steal the show. Which Australian product holds the

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FEATURES / country focus

most potential in this region? Wright: Australian seafood is coming of age in Dubai and holds the key to future market and consumer growth. At Madinat Jumeirah we have recently worked with suppliers to bring in some amazing products that were not available in Dubai 12 months ago, such as Queensland Spanner crab meat and Glacier 51 Toothfish, which is one of the world’s only MSC Certified sustainable fisheries that farms this incredible product. We, as part of the Jumeirah family,

Chef Natalie Bolt

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The The Pro Th Pro Chef Chef Middle Midd ddle Eastt / July 2014 dd

“What makes all our dishes special is the way in which we blend our produce with unique bush ﬂavours, which are not widely found in this part of the world.” - Chef Natalie Bolt are always on the lookout for products such as these because of their impeccable taste and quality which is at the forefront of Australian ﬁshing, but also to ensure that we follow Jumeirah’s best practice of only using sustainable produce. Bolt: Kangaroo is a relatively new entrant and has sparked a huge amount of interest since we opened Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar. It is a very lean meat and high in protein. As we become increasingly more health conscious, I believe kangaroo meat really meets the needs of our consumers, whilst also being a tasty alternative to steak for our food lovers. Galea: Australian beef I feel is the market leader and is found on all of the top menus in town. It’s also what I feature at our venues. Does much Australian produce feature on your menu? Wright: Australian produce in general puts itself high on the list for choice in Madinat Jumeirah because it is quality assured and driven and also because it is readily available and accessible. At Mina A’Salam, Al Qasr and Dar Al Masyaf we

use a combination of produce from all around the world, with our emphasis on choosing the best available produce for our guests, wherever it comes from. In recognition of the Australian produce that is imported to Dubai, a large quantity of what we use at Madinat Jumeirah is Australian. However in saying this, there is also some amazing local produce being produced from organic growers around the UAE that is starting to rival what is being produced in Australia, some of the best organic heirloom tomatoes I have ever tasted were grown locally - Australia look out! Bolt: Yes. It is important to maintain the integrity of the restaurant by using predominantly Australian-grown produce. We import all of the meat featured on our menu, as well as the fruits and spices that add the bush tucker ﬂavours to our dishes. Moving forward, we are looking at introducing more Australian seafood and game variety, which will be unique to the region, making Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar an even more exciting culinary destination for Dubai’s foodies. Galea: First and foremost I insist on only the ﬁnest produce in my kitchens. More often than not it’s Australian!

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CHEFS / pimp my plate

ven as Colin Clague, Executive Chef of Qbara, began talking us through the dishes he and his team were going to prepare, with Executive Pastry Chef Liz Stevenson on standby for the dessert, he was trying to make more dishes ﬁt on the elaborate tray which would serve as the base for his eventual 11 dish extravaganza. For a hardworking chef, who’d recently survived a 500 cover Saturday night service, that would stretch his abilities so various dishes were covered by other members of the brigade and we have to

INDIAN VEGETABLE THALI

A taste of Veggiestan Qbara, the neo-Ottoman cum Middle Eastern restaurant cum lounge which is currently riding very high in Dubai’s popularity stakes after just a few months open, has a menu concept based on sharing, according to Executive Chef Colin Clague. What better than to prick for the reinvention challenge a tray full of small dishes - the Indian vegetable thali.

'FALAFEL SALAD'‚ COMPRESSED CUCUMBER TARRATOR SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 1kg chick peas, soaked 800g green peas 50g mint Moroccan spice, to taste 50g coriander leaves 50g red chillies 50g red onion 80g garlic heads sesame seeds, to taste table salt, to taste hummous boiled white chickpeas tarrator sauce brown burgal, boiled semi-dried cherry tomatoes compressed cucumber crispy sliced bread tabouleh herbs garlic and lemon dressing red radish, thinly sliced baby gem lettuce, seared harissa oil METHOD ∙ Soak the chickpeas in cold water for 12 hours. ∙ Mix all main ingredients together, then mince twice through a mincer. When needed quenelle and deep fry - whilst still hot sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. ∙ On a rectangular slate - spread the hummus and arrange the grilled baby gem, the compressed cucumber and the falafel. Garnish with the remaining ingredients GRILLED EGGPLANT WITH DATES, DUKKAH AND HONEY SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 10 eggplant (small) Maldon sea salt, to season 8 Medjoul dates 600g aubergine 2g Maldon sea salt, to taste 2g Syrian chilli ﬂakes

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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pimp my plate / CHEFS

alter our normal A-Z approach to Pimp My Plate by dashing around the highlights. “Our food concept is based around sharing plates,” explained Chef Clague, “so the idea of lots of little tastes made complete sense to me. There are also clear links between Indian cuisine and the sort of food we prepare, so it was quite easy to adapt some of our favourites and make a kind of Qbara tasting tray.” Knowing he had grown up on the Isle of Man, I asked him when he’d ﬁrst been introduced to Indian food. “Well, there certainly wasn’t an Indian

restaurant on the island,” he recalls, “though there is one now. So it was when I ﬁrst moved to London as a young chef though, in those days, we had no idea what real Indian food was like. The ﬁrst time I went to India was a revelation. I’ve since made over a dozen trips and my wife is from Mumbai. I’m not a big chilli fan, but family have shown me the sublety of the spicing.” Does he cook Indian food at home? “No, I wouldn’t dare!” What was the biggest part of the challenge? “As you know I’m a 'big' veggie lover, so the lack of meat was an issue. Could I put a steak on the top

of it? Joking aside, Indian vegetablke dishes are very complex and I love them when we go back to London. Of course, I’d eaten thalis before so we thought we’d try and match the variety of dishes.” Would he think of adding it to the menu? “Well, as you’ve seen, there’s a lot of work involved in a selection as large as this. It would be hard to deliver during a busy service, but it’s given me some ideas.” And with that he left for his ﬁrst real holiday in many years. We stayed to demolish the thali - every dish delicious!

RICE WITH LENTILS, SPICES AND FRIED ONIONS SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 200g Puy lentils 300g white onions, brunoised vegetable oil, for frying seasoned ﬂour, for the onions 5g cumin seeds 8g coriander seeds 200g basmati rice 30ml olive oil 1g turmeric powder 3g allspice, freshly ground 3g cinnamon, freshly ground 5g caster sugar 450ml vegetable stock Maldon sea salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste assorted cresses fried onions

Arrange on absorbent paper to drain, place under lights or in the dehydrator to stay crisp, season. ∙ In a pan, sauté the onions without colour then add the coriander, cumin and sugar, toast for about a minute to release the ﬂavours, add the lentils and half the quantity of the stock until the lentils are half cooked, then add the rice, and the remaining stock, simmer until cooked - about 12 minutes. ∙ Pile into a serving bowl, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and top with the remaining fried onions.

0.2g cayenne pepper 10ml Sherry vinegar 70g assorted leaves, herbs and cresses 80ml lemon garlic dressing 100g dukkah 40gg date honey (molasses) METHOD ∙ Heat oil to 200C, soak the dates in warm water to loosen the skins, top and tail the eggplants and peel, cut into 2cm pieces. ∙ Drain and peel the dates. ∙ Fry the eggplant in batches until, golden brown and cooked, about three minutes then drain on absorbent paper. ∙ Put the dates, eggplant, and seasonings in a food processor and blend until smooth, correct the seasoning, pass through a ﬁne sieve. ∙ Cut the eggplants in wedges and deep fry until golden, drain on absorbent paper. Grill over the robata, until nicely bar marked, then allow to cool. ∙ Place two wedges together and smear on the date and eggplant paste. Grill under the salamander, until nicely caramelised. ∙ Arrange in a white bowl and sprinkle over the dukkah, drizzle over the dates molasses. Garnish with the dressed salad leaves and herbs DUKKAH: SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 120g hazelnuts, toasted, skin removed and chopped 40g white sesame seeds, toasted, kept whole 20g cumin seeds, toasted and ground 10g coriander seeds, toasted and ground Maldon sea salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste Method

∙ Roast the hazelnuts in a hot pan and do not burn,

then remove skin. Roast the sesame seeds until nicely toasted. Heat the cumin and coriander seeds separately in hot pans, grind to a powder. Using a sharp knife, chop the hazelnuts roughly. ∙ Mix the sesame seeds, chopped hazelnuts and the spice powder together, season with freshly ground salt and pepper. Keep in a airtight container.

METHOD

∙ Slice the onions, mix with the seasoned ﬂour and

deep fry in the oil until crispy and beautifully golden.

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WHITE BUTTER BEANS, FETA AND ZA’ATAR CRUSH SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 250g dried butter beans, soaked overnight with skins removed 250g dried white beans, soaked overnight 2 bulbs garlic, large 300ml extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, juice only 2 lemon zest 25g mint - fresh, leaves only - ﬁnely chopped 5g cumin seeds, toasted and ground 200g feta, crumbled

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CHEFS / pimp my plate

dried za’atar fresh za’atar METHOD ∙ Bring two saucepans of water to the boil and add the pre-soaked skinned beans, reduce to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes. The butter beans should be soft and mushy, whilst the white canelinni beans should be soft whilst still retaining their shape. Drain and season, allow to cool then process 70% of the beans to a rough puree, fold in the remaining beans. ∙ Place the garlic on a baking tray, drizzle with a little olive oil and roast for thirty minutes. Allow to cool then squeeze the garlic out of their skins, add to the mashed beans. ∙ Stir the olive oil into the beans and garlic mixture, mix in the lemon juice and zest, finally add the mint, cumin and feta, stirring until you have a rough chunky puree, correct the seasoning. ∙ Place in a serving dish and garnish with both types of za’atar and some crumbled feta, drizzle over the remaining extra virgin oilve oil. Serve with hot flat bread. SEVEN VEGETABLES, WITH SPICED CHICKPEAS AND COUSCOUS SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS 60g each baby carrots, three different colours 200g baby turnips 200g fingerling potatoes 100g shallots 200g Pumpkin 80g sugar snap peas grapeseed oil 150g chickpeas, cooked 10g garlic, chopped 200g canned tomatoes 30g tomato paste 100g tomato passata 10g flat leaf parsley, julienned 6g coriander, julienned 100ml water 40g preserved lemon rind 10g Syrian chilli flakes 9g Maldon sea salt 8g sweet paprika 5g ground coriander 5g ground cumin 1g ground white peppercorns 2.5g Syrian chilli flakes chives coriander cress fried chickpeas fried garlic

and half the spice mix and simmer for ten minutes. Add the prepped vegetables and the vegetable stock, hardest ﬁrst, gauge cooking times so all the vegetables are tender at the same time ∙ Remove the vegetables and allow to cool, reduce the sauce to a moderately thick consistency, add the Syrian chilli ﬂakes to taste, ∙ To serve, reheat the sauce, add the vegetables and cooked chickpeas until hot, add the julienne of herbs and correct the seasoning. MILK AND HONEY SERVES 6 GREEK YOGHURT PANNACOTTA INGREDIENTS 500g Greek yoghurt 2.75 gelatin leaves or 1 tsp powdered gelatin, dissolved 350ml full fat fresh milk 100ml whipping cream 100g demerara sugar 1g sumac METHOD

∙ Soak the gelatin leaves in ice water or, if using powdered gelatin, sprinkle 1 tsp of powder into a bowl of two to three tablespoons of cold water. Next, place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water until the mixture dissolves into a thick liquid. Strain before using to make sure there are no undIssolved granules. ∙ Bring the milk, cream, sugar and sumac to a simmer. Once simmered, remove from the heat and add the gelatin. Stir to combine. Sometimes the acidity from the sumac can cause a light curdling, depending on the brand. No cause for alarm - if this happens, use a hand blender to bring it back together again. ∙ Allow to cool to blood temperature over an ice bath, stirring every once in a while. Once cooled, strain and then fold in the Greek yoghurt. Mix well and use the handblender once more for an extra silky texture. ∙ Pour into glasses or small bowls and set in the fridge until ﬁrm, about two hours. Makes six to seven portions (approximately 150-175gm each) WALNUT PRALINE INGREDIENTS 200g walnuts 150g caster sugar 25g unsalted butter 2g crushed sea salt or table salt METHOD

METHOD ∙ For the spice mix all ingredients together, set aside. ∙ Prepare the vegetable and chargrill separately until coloured. ∙ Heat the oil in a pan, sauté off the garlic without colour, add the tomato paste and cook out for ﬁve minutes to remove the acidity, add the tomatoes

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

∙ Lightly toast the walnuts in a pre-heated oven at 170C for approximately ﬁve minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool. ∙ Next, heat a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle a small amount of the sugar on the bottom. As it starts to melt, add some more sugar and stir. Continue until all the

sugar is melted. Once the sugar is a deep amber colour, add the butter and stir vigorously. Add the walnuts and stir to coat with the caramel. ∙ Turn the whole mixture onto a greased surface or silicone mat. Pat down with a spatula to make it ﬂat. Sprinkle over the salt, and allow to cool. ∙ Once cool, break into pieces and store in an airtight container until ready for use. CINDER TOFFEE INGREDIENTS 250g caster sugar 5g baking soda 25g glucose 50ml water METHOD

∙ Place the sugar, glucose syrup and water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, break up any lumps in the baking soda with your ﬁngers. ∙ Continue to cook until the mixture is a light golden color (about 175C). Then, moving quickly, whisk in the baking soda. The mixture will start to expand rather quickly. Acting fast, pour the toffee mixture onto a greased surface or silicone mat and allow to cool. Do not touch - the sugar will be incredibly hot. Once cooled, break into pieces and store in an airtight container. CONDENSED MILK GRANITA INGREDIENTS 1 can condensed milk 490ml water 2 cardamom pods 1/2 zested lemon METHOD

∙ Place the condensed milk in a large bowl. ∙ Bring the water to the boil and pour onto the condensed milk.

∙ Crush the cardamom pods and zest the lemon. Add to the milk mixture while it is still very hot.

∙ Allow to cool and infuse overnight. Once infused, strain and pour into a shallow dish. Place the dish in the freezer to set hard. Once frozen, scrape the mixture with a fork to create the granita. TO ASSEMBLE

∙ Roughly chop the walnut praline and cinder toffee and set aside. Pour a tablespoon of saffron honey - we use Balqees honey, but you can easily make your own by finely chopping a few saffron strands and mixing them with your favourite honey - onto the top of the pannacotta. ∙ Cover with the chopped praline and cinder toffee - as much as you like really!. ∙ Next, place a generous spoonful of condensed milk granita on the top. To finish, garnish with a teased handful of saffron pashmak. You can find this in most Iranian sweet shops. Dessert by Executive Pastry Chef Liz Stevenson.

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CHEFS / face to face

From Italy with love Perhaps best known for being the Head Chef that gained The River Café its ﬁrst Michelin star, Chef Theo Randall has fronted Theo Randall at The InterContinental on London's Park Lane since 2006 to rave reviews. Critic Jay Rayner described the food there as “the best meal I have had all year".

heo Randall at the Intercontinental has won numerous awards and the modest and always pleasant chef’s rising profile has been bolstered by the many television appearances he has made across British TV channels, as well as on-line videos featuring recipes and tips for the Huffington Post blog. His career began at Chez Max in South London, where he trained in classical cooking for four years. He joined the team at The River Café in 1989 but, after a year, moved to California to work at Chez Panisse under chef Alice Waters for 12 months before returning to the UK where he spent fifteen years, ten of which were as Head Chef and silent partner back at The River Café where he gained the restaurant its first Michelin star. He has been called the “unsung hero” of the restaurant and has been credited with creating The River Café’s signature dishes and making it an establishment that changed Britain's restaurant culture for good. He left The River Café to set up his own restaurant when a space became available at the InterContinental London. We caught up with him when he cooked at jones the grocer in Dubai earlier this year. What’s your impression of the UAE? Well, I’ve been pretty busy cooking and doing other stuff, so I haven’t seen a lot although I did make it to Abu Dhabi. Is it hard to walk into a new kitchen and create dishes straightaway? It’s quite a challenge working with a new team but I’m very pleased to see the skill levels here and also the incredibly good work ethic. Would you consider setting up a restaurant here? I’m extremely produce driven and I think that being as local as I like would not be possible here,

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

though I must say that the UAE-produced burrata is very good. To prepare for this time, I sent menus over and then we discussed what was available. As you know, just about everyone in the business talks about Dubai all the time so I was quite surprised to actually see the food scene for real. You’re part of InterContinental’s global; initiative to deliver healthier dishes for child guests in its hotels. How is it rolling out here? To be honest, I’m not sure of the actual programme but the menus are starting soon. The key for me has been simple, good quality food. I haven't changed the way I approach food. Such as? Typical is tomato risotto with butter, Parmesan and fresh parsley. We’re not using too many spices or herbs and children have very sensitive palates. I just want to inspire them to eat well and give them an opportunity to taste some good food. You know, the restaurant scene is changing and kids are eating out more, trying different things and, I hope, being more aware of what they’re eating. You’ve taken on a kind of mentoring role to younger chefs. Is that something you enjoy? My mother taught art and I think I got a love for teaching from her. Using TV is a great way of showing people how it’s done - you know, everyone should know how to cook. For me, the

“My menu is made up of the same simple rustic dishes I enjoy when I go to Italy - unfussy yet utterly delicious and uncomplicated.”

face to face / CHEFS

“Food is about passion and Italians are very passionate. I love cooking but for me eating is a very social activity - I’m always influenced by Italy, probably most of all by Puglia where the food is incredible and very simple.” best cookbooks are those covered in oil and spills - it shows they’re being used! The trouble with a lot of cooking on TV is that the dishes aren’t actually achievable because people just don’t have the time. What drives you as a chef? I’m very interested in provenance and, for example, always fully brief our waiters on where ingredients come from. They should understand dishes in the way that sommeliers understand the wines they serve. And where does most of your inspiration come from? I’m lucky to be able to spend a fair amount of time in Italy and that gives me a real balance. It’s a happy combination. The more I eat there, the more inspired I become. What’s your take on the trend for simple menu descriptions? When I ate at Chez Panisse for the first time, I was almost laughing at the menu descriptions. I think they had to change from that over-descriptive style. Some menus are just too much like recipes. I think you need to balance the description with simplicity. What do see as the key trends this year in dining? Sharing is definitely there. I see a lot of restaurants adapting as they try and find what will work. Pop-ups, of course. Favourite cuisines? I love Chinese - simple, tasy and the most delicious. I love Italian food, of course, mainly the dishes of the trattoria where the antipasti and the pasta define the region. Why do you think Italian food is so popular? It’s very accessible. It’s inspired by the ingredients. Italian chefs don’t muck around. And it’s very seasonal. Food is about passion and Italians are very passionate. I love cooking but for me eating is a very social activity - I’m always influenced by Italy, probably most of all by Puglia where the food is incredible and very simple. Things like Carpaccio of mixed fish.

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July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CHEFS / face to face

DECONSTRUCTING THE MENU Chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez Hernandez, whose career included three years with Ferran AdriĂ including a year at elBulli, moved to Dubai from Cordoba in 2013 to open an authentic new Spanish restaurant, El Sur, in The Westin. With a modern style and a desire for sharing plates, he has rapidly found success. On the eve of his ďŹ rst holiday since arriving in the Emirate, we stole a few minutes of his time to learn more about him.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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face to face / CHEFS

rowing up near Salamanca and completing his chef training at the Hotel School Bellamar in Marbella, Chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez Hernandez, Head Chef of El Sur, has worked across different cities in Europe - including the Gran Hotel Iberostar Budapest, Hungary, where he earned 13.5 Gault Millaut Guide points and won the title for sixth best restaurant in the world within just one year. However, despite his travels, he remembers his home town fondly, especially for the Iberica ham which was ubiquitous. “I liked all food,” he claims, “especially cakes.” Were your family involved in the food business? No they had an electrical business that both my parents worked in. We didn’t have a garden but my mother and grandmother were both great cooks and, from the age of six or so, I would help them in the kitchen with simple tasks like cake making. The whole family ate together, very traditional food especially on Sundays. Did they expect you to follow them into the business? Yes, in fact I studied electronics but I really didn’t enjoy it. I only studied for them and didn’t like it. Instead, I liked to travel and went to Andorra to work in a small hotel - an 800km trip just to wash

“I’ve started with three simple Spanish dishes - paella, croquet and Spanish omelette. When we deconstruct those, people will see and understand the difference between those dishes and the originals.” plates! Anyway, one day I spoke to the chef and asked if there was any place in the kitchen and then I was making salads. Despite its size, we did 200 covers a day. And that decided you to be a chef? Not really. I understood that I liked the kitchen but never really thought of it as a career. However, I knew I had to study if this was going to be my job so I went to the Hotel School Bellamar in Marbella for a couple of years. After that, food really became my passion! When I ﬁnished at the school, I wanted to work with good chefs in order to learn about the best food and, after a couple of short spells, I got a job at the Mas D'Huston gastrononic restaurant in Perpignan to get some real training. This was in 2002 and now I was a cook. And after that? A couple of years later, I was lucky to spend four months at Celler de Can Roca in Gerona followed by two years at elBulli Hotel in Seville.

Your job there? I was Pastry Chef under Chefs Rafael Morales and Ferran. What was that like? Had you heard of him? Yes, of course. In school, one teacher spoke about him and I’d seen him on TV. Then in 2005 I returned to Malaga as Chef de Partie in the ﬁsh section at the one-star Café de Paris Restaurant under Chef José Carlos Garcia. It was a great place to be. However, the next year I returned to work with Ferran, this time at elBulli itself - the year it had three stars and was 'Best Restaurant in the World'. Did you specialise there? Chef de Partie in snack, meal, ﬁsh and pastry sections. I was fortunate to be there - some 10,000 use to apply for positions at elBulli. What was Ferran like to work for? Very hard inside the kitchen but very friendly outside of work. Albert Adrià was as creative, but opposite to Ferran.

SALMOREJO SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS 2kg ripe plum tomato 1 garlic clove fine sea salt 350g white bread, lightly toasted 100ml extra virgin olive oil 1 loaf of rustic bread, frozen METHOD ∙ Blend 1kg of tomato, garlic and salt on high speed for one minute. Break the bread in pieces and add it to the tomato. Blend again for one minute on high speed. Add olive oil gradually and mix until it becomes a creamy texture - it should not be lumpy. Pass the salmorejo through a fine sieve and refrigerate until cold. ∙ To make the tomato powder, blend the rest of the tomato and freeze for six hours. Then place the frozen tomato mix in a clean muslin cloth over a sieve - on top of a bowl - for 16 hours, to allow the water from the frozen tomato to fall into the bowl below. Place this water in a tray and freeze. When completely frozen, scrape with a fork to make granita. ∙ Cut the bread to about 10cm length and toast at 130C for five to eight minutes. ∙ Spoon the salmorejo into a deep bowl and place a toast on top, garnish with the granita and drizzle olive oil all over.

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July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CHEFS / face to face

Why do you think Spanish cuisine has become so refined over the last decade? We have good products - oils, meat, fish - but then so does France. I think that the right chefs just came through - Ferran, Santa Santamaria (who I would have loved to work with), Dani Garcia, Aduriz at Mugaritz‚. When you eat in Spain, the produce is amazing, very natural. You really need to understand our culture, to understand our food. Spanish people react to quality. We skipped part of your story. What next after elBulli? Chef de Partie in meat and fish in one star Hotel Read in Mallorca then Chef de Partie in garnish at five-star Hotel Hospes Maricel also in Mallorca. Then my first Head Chef position at five-star Hotel Palacio del Bailío in Córdoba responsible for a

SEA BREAM WITH CREAMY CAULIFLOWER, CUTTLEFISH TAGLIATELLE AND CORIANDER MOJO SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS 2 ﬁllets (150g each) of sea bream 1kg cauliﬂower 200g butter salt 10g salt 90g garlic 60g parsley leaves 40g coriander leaves 350ml olive oil 85ml sherry vinegar 40g almond powder

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

gastronomic restaurant Senzone. I stayed there two years then I was opening Head Chef for the Grand Hotel Iberostar Budapest, whose restaurant was named as the sixth best in Hungary within a year of opening as well as the best tasting menu in the country. Then I went back to Hotel Palacio del Bailío before moving to Dubai.

It’s still early and we need to understand the feedback. Maybe we’ll do more in the future. I’ve started with three simple Spanish dishes paella, croquet and Spanish omelette. When we deconstruct those, people will see and understand the difference between those dishes and the originals.

You’ve been in Dubai nine months now. What were your initial thoughts? When I arrived, sourcing was difﬁcult but now it’s much easier. To me, produce is the most important thing. I need the best and the expense is worth it.

How did you end up here? Everybody has heard of Dubai and I just got a call from the owner. I came out in May last year to cook on trial and here I am.

For example? Olive oil at Dhs 130 a litre. You’ve started including some elBulli dishes on the menu. What has been the reaction?

8 cherry tomatoes 200g brown sugar 65ml water 12ml soy sauce 3g ginger, peeled 1 cuttleﬁsh, cleaned, deboned and skinned 20ml olive oil METHOD ∙ Cook the cauliﬂower until tender. Add the butter and salt and blend to make a smooth, creamy paste. ∙ Blanch the garlic cloves twice in hot water and set aside. Grind the coriander and parsley leaves together and then blend with the garlic and other ingredients to make the mixture as thin as possible. ∙ Make a caramel with the brown sugar, water and soy sauce. Add the peeled ginger and refrigerate

What do you think of the food scene in Dubai? Dubai is all about rush and I like patience for food. However, the quality here is good and the highest is very good. Personally, I like to eat simply. With my time off, I have nothing to do with a kitchen!

overnight.

∙ Blanch the tomatoes, peel and keep in an ice water bath until it becomes cold.

∙ Drain the tomatoes, drizzle olive oil and roast at 180C for six to eight minutes.

∙ Dry the cuttleﬁsh on paper towels to remove all

moisture and then freeze for four hours. Slice the cuttlefish to the same width as tagliatelle pasta. ∙ Fry the sea bream skin side down on a heated pan with olive oil. ∙ Heat the cauliflower cream and sauté the tomatoes with the soy caramel mixture. ∙ Spoon the cream on a plate and place the fish on top. ∙ In a heated pan, cook the tagliatelle for 10-20 seconds and place on top of the fish. Garnish with the coriander mojo and tomatoes. Serve hot.

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CHEFS / kitchen skills

Gnocchi made simple This traditional pasta is easier to make than many people think and it’s an ideal Summer dish, particularly when it is given a lighter makeover - with ricotta replacing the potato. Juri Pelusi, Executive Chef of Lounge Café Italiano shows us how it’s done. Chef Pelusi was born in Teramo in Italy and worked in Verona, Rome and London, before moving to Dubai seven years ago to work with Jebel Ali Golf Resort and Spa and the InterContinental Hotels Group. He opened Lounge Café Italiano last year.

RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH FRESH TOMATO SAUCE AND BASIL SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 400g Roma tomatoes 100g cherry tomatoes 20g basil leaves 10ml extra virgin olive oil 500g whole milk ricotta cheese 2 eggs 250g all-purpose flour 170g Parmesan cheese, grated ½ tsp nutmeg powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper METHOD ∙ Boil the Roma tomatoes for eight seconds and then peel, de-seed and dice. ∙ Slice the cherry tomatoes in half and julienne the basil leaves. ∙ Heat the oil and sauté the diced tomatoes for two minutes. Add the cherry tomatoes and basil leaves, cover and cook for five minutes. ∙ Mix together the ricotta cheese, eggs, flour, 120g of the Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper. ∙ Cut the dough into large chunks and roll into 1.2 inch thick ropes on a floured surface. Slice pieces from each rope and add to a saucepan of boiling water, removing when they come to the surface. ∙ Add the gnocchi to the fresh tomato sauce and sauté with the remaining Parmesan cheese.

Add the ingredients to the bowl, one by one, and mix well.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

Combine the ingredients with your hand, or in a food processor, to form the dough.

Dust a clean, hard surface with ﬂour to prepare for rolling the dough.

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kitchen skills / CHEFS

Roll the dough to form a thick long rope-like strip.

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32-33 KITCHEN SKILLS.indd 33

Slice dough pieces out of the strip according to your desired thickness and length.

Add the gnocchi in a pot of boiling water, remove when it comes up to the surface and ďŹ&#x201A;oats â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this takes about 1-2 mins.

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

33 7/3/14 1:59 PM

CHEFS / recipe corner

A winning trip to the ﬁsh market!

A recent challenge to a small gropup of Jumeirah chefs saw them choosing ﬁsh at Deira Fish Market and then competing in a two-course cook off at Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management. The winner was Anand Ramakrishnan, Sous Chef at Imperium, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray.

TWO WAY ANGEL DELIGHT - HEALTHY PARCEL AND ARABIC SPICES EXPERIENCE - DATE SAUCE AND FATOUSH SALAD HEALTHY PARCEL INGREDIENTS 90g angel fish fillet 40g banana leaf 20g green beans 5g olives 10g tomatoes 10g tapioca 5g basil 10g carrots 2g salt 2g pepper 5ml olive oil METHOD ∙ Fillet the angel fish, pin bone and season. ∙ Take a banana leaf, soften it over flame. Place on a cutting board, fill it with all the vegetables and the fish, wrap it up and tie with butcher's string, Steam roast it in a oven for 15 minutes for 180C. SPICES EXPERIENCE INGREDIENTS 90g angel fish fillet 10g capsicum red 10g capsicum yellow 10g capsicum green 10g onion 40g tomato 5g ginger 5g garlic 2g coriander powder 2g cumin powder

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

1 dry lemon 2g salt 1g pepper METHOD ∙ Fillet the fish. Heat a pan, add oil then pan sear the fish fillet till skin is crispy. Place in the oven for seven minutes until cooked, then remove. ∙ Cut vegetables in julienne. ∙ Heat a pan, add olive oil, ginger, garlic, then vegetables and spices. Sauté till the spices stick to the pan, then add tomatoes. Let the vegetables cook and mix with sauce.

DATE SAUCE INGREDIENTS 30g dates 200ml ﬁsh stock 2g salt 1g pepper METHOD

∙ Heat the ﬁsh stock with the dates.

Bring to a boil then blend, strain and season.

FATOUSH SALAD INGREDIENTS 20g local lettuce 5g pomegranate 5g radish 8g tomato 5g cucumber 5ml pomegranate molasses 1g sumac powder 5g pine seeds METHOD

∙ Pick the leaves then place on the

plate with all other ingredients. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

POACHED LOBSTER WITH MANGO SALSA, KUNAFA PRAWN, ANGEL SASHIMI AND LOBSTER SHOOTER POACHED LOBSTER WITH MANGO SALSA INGREDIENTS 200g local lobster 20g ripe mango 10g red onion 5g coriander leaves 10g tomato 200g carrot 10g celery 10g onion 5ml olive oil 2g dill 1g saffron 2g salt 1g pepper 200g beetroot 100g glucose

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METHOD

∙ Remove the lobster head. Using a

bamboo stick insert the lobster tail from the back for the lobster tail to be straight. Poach the lobster for nine minutes in a stock pot with saffron, thyme, vinegar, lemon and mire poix. Remove and place in iced water. When cool, remove the shell and cut it into round medallions about 2cm thick. Season and place in fridge. ∙ Cut mango and the rest of the vegetable into small 05.cm cubes then add chopped coriander, olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper. ∙ Boil the beetroot and then blend, strain, add glucose and bring to the boil. Make a straight line on the plate with a brush and then assemble dish. KUNAFA PRAWNS INGREDIENTS 100g prawns 16/20 4g kunafa dough 5ml cream

5ml egg yolk 2g salt 1g pepper 200ml vegetabkle oil METHOD ∙ Clean the prawns keeping the tail. ∙ Make a mixture with egg yolk, cream, salt and pepper. ∙ Dip the prawns in the mixture and wrap it with the kunafa dough and deep fry till golden brown.

ANGEL SASHIMI INGREDIENTS 50g angel ﬁsh 2g carrot 2g onion 2g raw mango 2g cucumber 10ml vinegar 2g star anise

METHOD

∙ Fillet ﬁsh, remove skin and slice the

belly thinly. Arrange on a pandan leaf.

∙ Cut all the vegetables into 0.5cm cubes and put them in vinegar .

∙ Sprinkle the pickled vegetables after

they are sour and add some soy sauce when servce.

LOBSTER SHOOTER INGREDIENTS 200g lobster shell 100g tomato 50g onion METHOD

∙ Clean the shell then bake in oven till golden brown then crush the shells.

∙ Heat a pan, add oil, sauté the onion

and carrots, then add the crushed shells, add paprika, tomato paste and sauté, then add the tomatoes, ﬁsh stock. Bring to a boil, strain, heat cream and blend the bisque with the cream. Check seasoning and blend

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CHEFS / recipe corner

Urban development UK born Chef Benjamin Xavier has worked for Jamie Oliver, Tom Aitkens and Richard Branson’s culinary team. Now Chef de Cuisine at Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers’ urban bar & kitchen (ubk), he’s driving the bar’s menu offering a warm fun-loving ambience while serving grills, roasts and classic comfort food.

HOMEMADE THAI MUSSELS SERVES 1 INGREDIENTS 800g mussels 200ml coconut milk 200ml fish or chicken stock 20g white onion, finely diced 1 stick of lemongrass 1 tsp Thai curry paste 1 tsp ginger, sliced 1 clove of garlic, sliced 1 tsp fish sauce 1 lime, halved 1 tbsp grape seed oil 2 red chillies, some sliced for garnish 1 tbsp peanuts, crushed coriander leaves for garnish

METHOD ∙ Discard any mussels that aren't tightly closed, or that remain open when given a slight tap. ∙ In a saucepan, heat a little grape seed oil and soften the onions, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, Thai curry paste and most of the chilli for around two to three minutes. ∙ Add the mussels and quickly stir in the coconut milk, ﬁsh sauce and stock, then bring to the boil and cover the pan Steam for three minutes, until the mussels are open and cooked. Discard any unopened. ∙ Finish with a squeeze of lime and sprinkle with coriander leaves, remaining chilli and crushed peanuts.

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

∙ Bring the cream to a rapid boil then

SERVES 3

∙ Whisk the eggs then add to the

INGREDIENTS 450g white chocolate 125ml cream 3 eggs 590g whipped cream

∙ Allow the chocolate mix to cool to

METHOD ∙ Melt the chocolate in a bowl over

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

water and set aside,

set aside.

warm chocolate.

room temperature then fold in the whipped cream. ∙ Set in molds and serve with a strawberry or raspberry sauce, lots of shaved chocolate and fresh raspberries.

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We would like to invite you to join “The Pink Brigade” by wearing “Pinked” chef jackets throughout October in support of The Breast Cancer Arabia Foundation. Cost of 1 Jacket - AED 100

Includes Julius Jacket, Pink Ribbon Logo, Full Name and Position, and delivery to property. Please email lily.hymes@ihg.com for an order form. Order forms should be completed and returned by 20th August 2014. Jackets will be delivered by 29th September mber 2014.

CHEFS / recipe corner

A taste of Sicily

Passionate Italian chef Francesco Dimonte, Head Chef of Ballarò at Conrad Dubai, moved to the Emirate in 2008, working at both Four Seasons Golf Club and Armani Ristorante. His uncompromising attention to detail and unstoppable enthusiasm drives him to create Italian-inspired favourites in a casual but elegant setting.

OCTOPUS SALAD WITH TAGGIASCA OLIVES AND CAPSICUM SAUCE SERVES 6 OCTOPUS SALAD INGREDIENTS 4kg whole octopus 4 baby potatoes 6 jumbo green asparagus 1 cup of taggiasca olives 1 cup of plum tomatoes

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

2 onions 1 bunch of celery 2 carrots 2 yellow capsicums 2 red capsicums 1 white onion 2 tsp olive oil 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp salt METHOS ∙ For the salad, put some water to boil with the celery, onions and

carrots then cook the octopus in the boiling water for about two hours on a slow ﬁre. Leave the octopus in the cooking water for another 30 minutes until it is warm. ∙ Start cutting the potato and the tomatoes into small cubes and cook the potatoes. ∙ Shave some green asparagus and place it on the bottom of the plate. ∙ Add some olive oil to the cooked potatoes, then add the tomatoes and the black olives and place it on top

of the shaved asparagus.

∙ Cut the octopus and put it on top of the salad.

∙ Garnish with some basil leave and semi-dried tomatoes.

∙ For the capsicum sauce, cut the

onion and braise it with some olive oil.

∙ Cut the capsicum and mix it with

the onions and roast for 15 minutes. Once the capsicum are cooked, blend with a touch of sugar then strain the sauce.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

RISOTTO WITH PORCINI MUSHROOM AND SMOKED SCAMORZA SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS 500g risotto rice 1 cup of dried porcini mushroom 0.5 cup of unsalted butter 1 cup of fresh porcini mushroom 1 cup of Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 30 grams smoked scamorza cheese 4 cups of vegetables stock 2 tsp of chopped parsley 2 tsp of extra virgin olive oil 2 onions 2 celery 2 carrots 1 zucchini 1 small bowl of cloves 1 tsp salt METHOD ∙ For the vegetable stock, blend the dried porcini mushroom and make a powder.

∙ Roast the risotto rice with some olive

oil in a hot pan. Add the vegetables stock, the porcini mushroom powder, pinch of salt and keep stirring so that the rice does not stick. ∙ Cook the risotto for about 18 minutes on a medium ﬁre until all the vegetable stock is reduced and the grains of rice are cooked then let the

risotto rest for few minutes before adding the butter and mixing it with the risotto. Then add the Parmesan cheese. ∙ Chop some fresh parsley and add it to the risotto with the olive oil. ∙ Sauté the fresh porcini mushroom and add to the risotto. ∙ Grate some fresh smoked scamorza

TIRAMISU

cheese on top.

∙ For the vegetable stock, cut the onion and stick the cloves to the onion and pass it on the grill. ∙ Cut and wash the rest of the vegetables and put it in a pot with water. Boil for 30 minutes and strain.

200g sugar 1kg T45

SERVES 6 METHOD

INGREDIENTS 375g egg yolks 750g sugar 205g water 500g mascarpone 150g cream 200g sugar 50g espresso coffee 3 gelatin leaves 20ml coffee essence 1l hot water METHOD ∙ Prepare the coffee by combining espresso, coffee essence, sugar, hot water andgelatin in a wide, small bowl. ∙ Prepare the ﬁlling by beating the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water until tripled in volume - ﬁve to eight minutes in an electric mixer at medium speed. ∙ Whip cream in a bowl until it

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∙ Preheat oven to 200C. ∙ In a clean bowl, whip the egg whites

holds stiff peaks. Once the yolkmascarpone mixture has cooled a little, gently fold in half of the whipped cream, then the remaining half just until fully incorporated. ∙ Assemble the tiramisu by dipping half of the ladyfingers very quickly into the coffee and lining the bottom of a 20cm square dish. Spoon half of the mascarpone filling over the ladyfingers and spread into an even layer, then dip the remaining ladyfingers very quickly into the coffee and arrange a second layer over filling. Spoon remaining mascarpone mixture over ladyfingers.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least six hours. ∙ When ready to serve, dust with cocoa powder. Leave out at room temperature about 20 minutes before serving. Note: Tiramisu can be chilled up to two days, but no longer or else the ladyﬁngers will break down too much. LADYFINGERS INGREDIENTS 1kg egg yolks 800g sugar 20g vanilla 1.2kg egg whites

until foamy and starting to gain volume. Very slowly begin adding the sugar while continuing to whip on high speed. Once you have achieved stiff, but not dry peaked meringue, stop whipping and transfer to another larger mixing bowl. ∙ Whip the egg yolks and sugar in the mixer bowl until it turns very light in colour and has just about tripled in volume and is at the ribbon stage. ∙ Once you have fully whipped your yolks, transfer them to the same bowl with the meringue and fold the two together gently while adding the sifted cake ﬂour and salt. ∙ Transfer the entire mixture to a pastry bag and pipe the ladyﬁngers. Dust with confectioner's sugar before baking for 12-5 minutes, until golden brown.

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Signature plates Need a recipe supplement? Would you like to be a part of our exciting, on-going series of recipe supplements, produced in association with RAK Porcelain? :H·UH ORRNLQJ IRU WHQ FKHIV HYHU\ PRQWK WR MRLQ XV

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Whether you supply produce, ingredients, tableware or place settings, we’ll source the chefs, dave@cpidubai.com arrange the photoshoots and then deliver the supplement for your approval. But hurry! We’re only able to do a dozen a year... Contact me today: Ankit Shukla ankit.shukla@cpimediagroup.com

recipe corner / CHEFS

Ramadan refreshers With the combination of the Holy Month of Ramadan and high Summer heat, it’s especially important to stay refreshed. We asked some of Dubai’s leading mixologists to give us ideas for stylish mocktails that are perfect for this time of year.

THE MIXOLOGIST: JIMMY BARRAT, ZUMA

ZUMA ZEN THE AGAVE NECTAR GIVES THIS DRINK A HEALTHY KICK. SERVES 1 Crush one unpeeled fresh kiwi with two shiso cress leaves and eight mint leaves. Add 20ml agave nectar, 20ml lime juice and 80ml organic green apple juice and gently shake. Serve over crushed ice.

THE MIXOLOGIST: ERIC BALLARD, GQ BAR

POMMIE PUNCH THE COMBINATION OF SAVOURY HERBS AND CITRUS IS NOT WIDELY USED, BUT IS VERY REFRESHING. SERVES 1 Bring 1l water to boil and add six chamomile tea bags - steep for ten minutes. Add 400g sugar for every 200ml of chamomile tea. Stir until the sugar is dissolved completely - this syrup can be bottled and kept refrigerated for one month). Mix together 50ml fresh pomegranate juice, 30ml cranberry juice, 20ml chamomile syrup and 15ml fresh lemon juice. Shake well and strain into the glass. Top with ginger ale and garnish with a few sprigs of rosemary and raspberries.

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July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CHEFS / recipe corner

THE MIXOLOGIST: DAVE KING UNDERWOOD, TOKO DUBAI

KIWIKIKI GRAPES AND KIWI ARE BOTH HYDRATING AND EXTREMELY COOLING. SERVES 1 Press 50g fresh seedless red grapes and half a whole peeled kiwis with a rolling pin. Add 50ml cranberry juice, 50ml pineapple juice and 5ml fresh lemon juice, followed by 2g sugar. Add ice and shake or stir until the sugar is dissolved and everything is mixed together. Place a few ice cubes in a glass and pour the mocktail all over. Serve with a slice of kiwi.

THE MIXOLOGIST: MICKEY MINTHU, BA RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE, FAIRMONT THE PALM

JADE RABBIT CUCUMBER IS A COOLING VEGETABLE AND THE EGG WHITE ADDS A CREAMY TEXTURE TO THIS DRINK. SERVES 1 Muddle 1 tsp fresh cucumber slices and two sprigs of thyme in a large jar, add 60ml green tea, 40ml green apple juice, 10ml fresh lime juice and 10ml pasteurised egg white or a whipped egg white. Mix with ice and shake well until the liquid is very foamy. Strain in a glass with crushed ice and garnish with fresh thyme sprigs and cucumber slices.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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Presents

Buying for new build hotels Save the date: September 22, 2014

The Procurement Network will return in September with an event themed around buying for new build hotels in the UAE. Register your interest to attend by scanning the QR code below, or visit www.hospitalitybusinessme.com/allevents

For unique networking opportunites tailored to your business needs please contact: Sales Director Sarah Motwali sarah.motwali@cpimediagroup.com D:+971 4 440 9113 M:+971 50 678 6182

Organised by:

Sales Manager Julie Caulton julie.caulton@ cpimediagroup.com D: +971 4 440 9112 M: +971 56 778 9793

LEISURE / travel

A FUSION OF FLAVOURS

In a dreamlike trance, the Seychelles most commonly paint a picturesque landscape of open waters, white sands, blue skies and lush mountains in our minds. But, unlike other vivid destinations, nothing too much is ever heard from the country’s culinary scene. Speaking to Seychellois Executive Chef of the Enchanted Island Resort, Ulric Denis, we discover the purity and uniqueness of food options available.

panning an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, the 115-island nation of the Seychelles, stands not only as a preferred getaway destination for beachgoers seeking relaxation, but also as a haven for those looking to indulge on the day’s fresh catch and experience a diverse fusion of ﬂavours. With very limited transport of goods in the country, the remote location provides an array of fresh produce from the gardens and surrounding waters, naturally turning seafood and shellﬁsh

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

dishes into a staple on the islands. Whether it be grilled, roasted, curried or raw, ﬁsh is most commonly cooked with a variety of locally grown chillies and spices such as tamarind, ginger and lemongrass, then served with rice, chatini (a mix of vegetables) or cooked fresh vegetables. Known in the Seychelles as Creole cuisine, local food combines a mixture of culinary traditions, blending ﬂavours originating from Africa, France, India, China, and England, to create a unique fusion of tastes. Of the favourites, creations such

as tamarind or shark chutney, coconut fish curry, varied dhals and ladob (a savoury or sweet dish made with ripe plantain and sweet potatoes) are consumed daily by local islanders. Besides fish, meat such as chicken, beef, lamb and pork are also available on the islands however, hold less significance in the Seychellois food scene. Some restaurants even serve a local speciality dish known as Rousettes, which is cooked fruit bat. Rumoured to taste like venison, this dish is prepared in a variety of ways!

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travel / LEISURE

FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE Born and bred in the Seychelles with international experience, Executive Chef Ulric Denis at Enchanted Island Resort, Seychelles, gives us a taste of the country’s culinary scene. Chef Ulric gained his experience of Mediterranean food working under Chef Alain Ducasse in Monaco. Firstly, tell us about the food culture in the Seychelles. The Seychelles is known for its genuine, large and flavourful fish. Tuna and king fish are among the favourites and they are often fried or grilled in a garlic-butter sauce. Sometimes seafood in the Seychelles is prepared popularly with a green or red curry. Smaller fish often end up in a fish stew or they are curried. Curry sauces integrated into Seychellois cuisine are sometimes combined with coconut milk and lemongrass, which are frequently used ingredients. As strange as it may be to some, octopus is a big delicacy here. Small fish and white shellfish are quite abundant too and a common Seychellois food recipe involves mixing these shellfish with pumpkin, which is cooked and served as soup. As a chef in the Seychelles, do you face any major challenges such as sourcing high quality produce, or employing trained staff? Not many high quality products are available in the Seychelles and the cost of dining out is generally higher than usual because we need to import the produce in order to provide worldclass quality food to our guests. There is minimal challenge involved when hiring for the Seychelles because as per Seychelles government policies and standards, we have a certain percentage of local recruitments that we need to comply with. This definitely makes it easier when hiring and

“The cost of dining out is generally higher than usual because we need to import the produce in order to provide worldclass quality food to our guests.”

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encourages natives of the island to be a part of the growing hospitality industry whether part of front office or back of house. What do you aim to achieve in the restaurant, do you use a certain approach? I try to bring a traditional yet modern approach to my cooking methods and do my best to create food that guests will remember long after they leave the island. Bounty, our main restaurant in the resort, serves international and Seychellois cuisine over three courses. So, do you use a lot of local cuisine on your menus? Any favourite local dishes? Our menu does not consist solely of local dishes as we create a fusion of local ingredients and spices - ‘Taste of Discovery’ - to appeal to guests from across the world. We do offer traditional dishes such as Creole fish, chicken curry and grilled fish when guests make special requests. I love to prepare fish and sea food. My favourite Seychellois dish is a delicious oven baked red snapper and a traditional Creole fish curry. On an international scale, how popular is Seychelles cuisine? Does it make it onto menus globally? Food lovers are always looking for exotic flavours and not many of them are yet familiar with the taste of Creole cuisine. I’m sure it has seeped onto international menus with other chefs using local products, such as Seychellois basil in their dishes to give it a twist. How does your experience in the Seychelles differs to other locations? Well, I was born and brought up in the Seychelles and, after several years working there, I found a job on a cruise ship that sailed for six years around the world. I have however worked on the island since 1982 in several local and international hotels. Every location has its benefits and challenges. On the incredible island of Seychelles, it makes me happy to bring my knowledge and skills obtained from working overseas to my hometown. Being part of a great team at the Enchanted Island Resort only makes the experience better. Looking at your culinary story, what inspired you to start cooking? My inspiration for cooking began at an early age as I watched my mother move expertly in the kitchen experimenting with food and flavours. I then tried my hand at it and thoroughly enjoyed working with ingredients. I truly believe that cooking is a form of art that comes first from the heart and not only through studying or reading.

July 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LEISURE / travel

BABY OCTOPUS TEMPURA WITH FRUIT TARTAR SAUCE AND CREOLE COCONUT CHUTNEY SERVES 4 OCTOPUS TEMPURA INGREDIENTS 100g tempura ﬂour 4g salt 4g dry yeast 10g chopped garlic 6g organic fresh chopped herbs 30ml lukewarm water 12 pieces of cleaned baby octopus 300ml oil for frying METHOD ∙ Soak the dry yeast in lukewarm water and place the garlic and herbs together in a bowl. Whisk all these ingredients together avoiding lumps. Cover and keep in a warm place for at least ten minutes. ∙ Pour the oil into a pan and place on a slow ﬁre. Remove the baby octopus head and cut into two pieces. Once the oil is hot, dip the octopus in tempura batter and fry it until it turns golden brown. CREOLE COCONUT CHUTNEY INGREDIENTS 100g coconut 5g saffron 5g salt 5g basil or Seychellois basil 10ml lemon juice 5g pepper 20ml olive oil METHOD ∙ Remove the black part of the coconut and grate it. ∙ Chop the basil and pour oil into the pan. ∙ Add the grated coconut, saffron, salt, lemon juice, pepper and cook for a while. FRUIT TARTAR SAUCE INGRTEDIENTS 50g mayonnaise 25g chopped papaya 25g chopped mango 25g chopped pineapple 15g capers 30g onion 10g chopped herbs 5g salt and 5g pepper METHOD

∙ Combine the chopped papaya, mango and pineapple

into a bowl, add the mayonnaise and mix it well. Add the onion and capers into the creamy mix. Add salt, pepper and herbs for seasoning. ∙ Serve the Baby Octopus Tempura in a cocktail glass placed lightly over fresh lettuce, served with the fruit tartar sauce and creole chutney on the side.

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

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LEISURE / last word

Tackling hunger - from A to Z One food blogger’s latest creation is a one of a kind snack that represents the English alphabet in food items from A to Z. Nick Chipman of Dude Foods cooked up the Alphabet Sandwich, piled high with 26 toppings that each represent a different letter!

hat’s the biggest challenge when creating a sandwich which contains food items that represent all 26 letters of the alphabet? Well, how many foods can you think of beginning with ‘X’? Blogger Nick Chipman decided on Xyolycarp, a fruit type that includes the coconut. For him, the challenge lay more in the more common letters, where he was faced with multiple choices and have to pick one food from a wide variety. "As far as deciding on which toppings to choose, I sort of just started going through my refrigerator and freezer and ﬁnding whatever I could at home,” he recalls. “So not having to run to the grocery store for too much probably played the biggest decision in what was on it.” And did he end up eating it? Yes, but the behemoth had to be dismantled ﬁrst. “The

THOSE INGREDIENTS, A TO Z Avocado Bacon Cheese Doritos Egg Fish sticks Garlic bread Ham Italian sausage patty Jalapeño peppers Krispy Kreme doughnut Lettuce Macaroni and cheese Noodles Onion rings Pepperoni Queso blanco dip Ramen noodles Spinach Turkey burger Usingers bratwurst Veal parmesan Wafﬂe Xylocarp (coconut) Yams Zucchini

The Pro Chef Middle East / July 2014

idea behind it was awesome, but it wasn’t too functional as an actual sandwich just because it was probably about a foot-and-a-half tall!” Surprisingly, perhaps, disparate ingredients often worked well together - Doritos and coconut were a surprise hit for Chipman. “The Krispy Kreme doughnut ended up being right on top of the veal parmesan and those two things were surprisingly good together. Obviously the Krispy Kreme doughnut burger has been around for a while, but a Krispy Kreme doughnut with veal parmesan in the middle could deﬁnitely be the next big food that you see at state fairs across the country.” Biggest shock for Chipman? “It ended up being way taller that I expected and almost toppled over at numerous points along the way. Luckily, at this point in my food blogging career, I've become quite accustomed to dealing with adversity like this. I had a tough time choosing which foods to use since I immediately came up with so many that started with the same letter. Take ‘F’ for example - with that one I couldn't decide between French fries and ﬁsh sticks.” Any chefs want to try and emulate the blogger?

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