The Pro Chef, 2013 April by The Pro Chef Middle East

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 14 APRIL 2013

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ISSUE 14 APRIL 2013

EDITORIAL Diabetes, obesity and worse have all been blamed on the inexorable rise of fast food and over-sugared drinks, with vast amounts of salt and corn syrup driving Western countries to unsustainable medical demands.

THE EGGS FACTOR Chef Ankur Chakraborty from Zafran reveals what lurks in his home fridge.

OUT AND ABOUT Bakers get wheat knowledge and diners try to outguess a chef in the dark.

ROUND TABLE Is there such a things as a perfect kitchen? Desp[ite the horror stories, chefs round a table tell us they get food out no matter what! But how could kitchen design be better?

MARKET FOCUS Are the days of the chefs’ whites numbered as more and more chefs take the trendy route to kitchen couture? We ask suppliers and chefs what’s going on.

COUNTRY FOCUS Industrialised food giant or great white hhope of the artisan food movement? We look at how American food is changing for the better.

PIMP MY PLATE Thai style Fish and chips? Mango Tree’s Paul Kennedy shows us it’s not only possible but delicious.

INGREDIENT We begin a new series looking at ingredients that may not be part of your usual repertoire, beginning with oca which is an incredibly popular tuber in South America.

FACE TO FACE We go all international this month with Peru’s leading chef Christian Bravo, Singapore’s Violet Oon and the inimitable Joe Barza from Lebanon.

TRAVEL London calling! The rolling gourmet extravaganza that is Stars, Food & Art hits Soﬁtel London St James and we were on hand to relish the occasion..

THE LAST WORD Okay, so you’ve got a Pacojet, but have you got a Pacojet 2? We look at the hottest new toy to hit our kitchens.

Editor’s comment

We were wrong - sorry! Diabetes, obesity and worse have all been blamed on the inexorable rise of fast food and over-sugared drinks, with vast amounts of salt and corn syrup driving Western countries to unsustainable medical demands. Whether particular fast food products can be held responsible for ill-health is probably a matter best left to the courts, but most reasonably minded industry observers would surely agree that excess intake is not the best way to go. Take the case, for example, of Natasha Harris, a 30-year old New Zealander who died three years ago after a cardiac arrest. The reason? Well, you might suppose that drinking large quantities of Coca-Cola might have had something to do with it, especially when you learn that she drank as much as ten litres a day of it - twice the recommended safe limit of caffeine and more than 11 times the recommended sugar intake. Coca-Cola, as you might expect, argued that it could not be proved its product had contributed to her death, when the case entered the legal system. However, according to the coroner, her intake topped 1kg of sugar and 970mg of caffeine a day. So, just another day for the fast food industry. But Coca-Cola has surprised its critics by launching a global advertising campaign that offers the start of a mea culpa. The company already works with communities, business and government leaders to try to find meaningful solutions to the complex challenge of obesity - apart, obviously, from getting out of the soft drinks business - but new TV ad encourages people to remember that all calories count in managing your weight, including those in Coca-Cola products. More interestingly, as well as the usual marketing spin of promoting low- and no-calorie options, it commits to clearly communicating the calorie content of all its products. This commitment was picked up in a second ad pitched as ‘Be OK” which makes it clear right up front that a can of Coca-Cola has 140 calories and then encourages people to have some fun burning those calories off. Other initiatives in the US include Coca-Cola Troops for Fitness where military veterans military-style fitness classes like calisthenics, sit-ups, push-ups, pull-ups and other fitness and nutritional techniques to families; Triple Play which encourages kids to eat a balanced diet, become more physically active and increase their ability to engage in healthy relationships; and Rails-to-Trails Conservancy which transforms abandoned railroad corridors into trails for biking, walking and in-line skating. The company offers over 180 low- and no-calorie beverages in the US and Canada - nearly one-third of sales. We hope that such initiatives will spread outside the Americas as Coca-Cola - the world’s largest beverage company with more than 500 sparkling and still brands could help to start turning the tide against obesity and ill health.

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The eggs factor

Feeling casual Part of Foodmark’s casual dining empire, Zafran in Mirdif City Centre is the company’s ﬁrst own brand Indian restaurant. Executive Brand Chef Ankur Chakraborty’s menu combines his extensive experience in India beginning with the Taj Palace in New Delhi to the award winning Indigo at Beach Rotana in Abu Dhabi. What does he eat at home, though?

hen Zafran ﬁrst opened, there was some discussion amongst Dubai’s food lovers that London-based celebrity chef Atul Kochhar, whose Benares restaurant was the ﬁrst Indian to win a Michelin star, should start his Middle East ventures in a shopping mall, but Zafran has gone from strength to strength, winning awards and growing - there are now two outlets in Dubai, one shortly in Kuwait and others to follow. In charge of menu development day to day is Ankur Chakraborty, the Executive Brand Chef of Zafran. Starting with a BA in Hotel Management and Hospitality Administration from the Institute of Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition in New Delhi, he started his career in the city’s Taj Palace Hotel, before moving to The Park Hotel in Chennai as a Management Trainee and subsequently as Kitchen Executive at Fire Restaurant. Moving to the Middle East in 2007, he became the Speciality Chef at the award winning Indian restaurant, Indigo, at Beach Rotana in Abu Dhabi. Then, in 2009, he moved back to India to take up the position of Executive Chef de Cuisine at Kangan, at Westin Mumbai Garden City. He then joined the Landmark Group in June 2010, as Executive Brand Chef for Zafran, which combines Indian cooking techniques with international ingredients.

like a normal chocolate cake to a completely new level. Frozen green peas - A vegetable which is most convenient in this form and does not compromise quality when frozen. I typically eat indian food at home and peas are very good with most of the indian vegetables or minced lamb curries and so on that I make, although sometimes it just becomes a good stir fry with fresh pounded black pepper. Frozen American corn kernels - These I keep essentially for their size and sweetness. Once steamed, they become a very healthy snack when mixed with some salt and lemon juice. Organic large brown eggs - For some reason I prefer these high Omega 3 content eggs in brown to white, although there is actually no difference in the flavour. Considering that eggs are an essential part of breakfast in my family, we definitely prefer going organic! Boursin cheese - Ever since my training in the cold kitchen where I would be assigned to make ten new canapes every day, I fell in love with this particular fresh cheese from France. I love topping crackers with chives, garlic and Boursin. Sometimes when I'm not watching my calories, I can happily just eat a chunk of it on its own. Cheddar cream cheese spread. Kasundi mustard sauce - This is a fermented grain mustard and green mango sauce from the Eastern part of India which I pick up every time I go home. Unfortunately it's not available here in the UAE. Its pungent and sour taste goes really well with fried dishes and is actually just as delicious mixed in with plain, steamed rice and stir fried greens. Amul salted butter - This has a very unique flavour which is unforgettable. Homemade clarified butter (ghee) - This is as essential to Indian cuisine as butter is to French food. Limes. Carrots. Cucumber.

So what does he have in his fridge? Ice cubes - Plain and also flavoured with lemon juice and orange juice. Just dilute water with the fresh orange juice or lemon juice and freeze it in the ice cube trays - I learned this from one of the fellow chefs at his house warming party. It is incredibly refreshing with ice teas or other beverages. Vanilla ice cream from London Dairy - I find the real vanilla pods that they use in this ice cream to be extremely flavoursome and it takes something

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

Spinach. Spicy peach and walnut chutney. Ready made dough for rotis. Aloe vera juice. All the other proteins - such as milk and meats, are always fresh and I hardly ever keep uncooked proteins in the fridge.

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The eggs factor

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April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Out and about

Wheat’s it all about? The Baking and Pastry Guild Middle East held a training meeting with the kind support of Seville Products, part of the IFFCO Group.

istasp Contractor introduced Seville Products to the group before Beate Engelmann, Product Development Manager, gave a presentation on the basic elements of wheat, yeast and enzyme technology. This was followed by a group tour of the blending factory where the delegates were shown the blending, processing, bagging and dispatch of the products. The delegates then had time for a short networking session where chefs, bakers and suppliers had the opportunity to discuss issues effecting the industry in the UAE and how events like this help to educate all involved. Brian Ballinger, Chairman of the Baking and Pastry Guild, thanked Seville Products for its kind support and ongoing commitment to the baking industry in the UAE and commented that events like this only strengthen the Guild’s commitment to support and develop the industry and looked forward to meeting everyone at the next event in April, which focus on chocolate.

Chef in the dark A Dubai’s food lovers enjoyed their annual weekend of food and fun at Taste of Dubai in March, including a special challenge by Chef Andy Campbell.

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

s usual, this year’s Taste of Dubai offered a wide varoety of activities for the region’s food lovers - from multiple sampling plates to chef demos, live music to shopping. What is encouraging is that the organisers are determined not to stand still and this year’s intriguing new hit was a special ‘sensory session’ from popular Chef for hire Andy Campbell. His new Dine in the Dark sessions challenged guests to use their sense of taste alone to identify the ingredients in three canapés they had to taste in complete darkness. With each canapé, Andy provided hints to help them think about specific flavours and aromas related to the ingredients. Then, from a ist of 100 possible ingredients, they had to select the 30 that they believed were in the canapes, with a final prize of a Dhs 5,000 meal cooked by Chef Andy at the winner’s home. And the winning ingredients? Chicken liver, goose liver, pine kernels, walnuts, cream, eggs, goats cheese, stilton, gelan, white sugar, sunflower oil, truffle oil, olive oil, spanish onions, garlic, shallots, beetroot, mint, coriander, parsley, tarragon, zatar, mace, chilli powder, white balsamic, dark chocolate, raspberries, sunflower seeds, brown/masoor lentils, wheat flour, maize flour, dried figs and dried cranberries.

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Round table

hat’s the main cause of badly designed kitchens? Uwe Micheel: Quite simply that a lot of people who build them don’t know anything about them and chefs are brought into the planning and equipping process too late. Even designers are brought in late after the spaces have been designed and often built. Financials change too during the process. In my view, chefs need to be part of this from the very beginning, even if it’s not the chef in the end who will use the kitchen. Here’s an example: I worked in a hotel where we had to cater for banquets of 2,000 or 5,000 people. It also had two health clubs that provided meals. For banqueting, there was a single rice cooker; for the health clubs, one rice cooker each! Christopher Bateman: Owners often complicate things because they like to work with companies that they’re comfortable with, who may not be the best choice. Fernando Moreno: I agree. How many different departments are involved before we and chefs are brought into the process. By the time we as contractors are brought on board, the owner, the architect and the engineers have already made decisions. Clearly a food service consultant and a head chef need to part of the planning team. Micheel: I think we’ve all taken over new kitchens and then had to make changes. However, you don’t see the same problems with standalone restaurants. Sascha Triemer: That’s because the chef in a standalone will often be one of the partners. Micheel: For a normal opening, everything has to be done and equipment, apart from small items, ordered three or four months beforehand otherwise contractors will take any chance for delay, which costs money. So is timing an issue in new openings? Dan Stanton: Some of the projects I’ve designed for have been so many years in the future that there are bound to be changes as chefs change. Micheel: But any chef will know what it's about. Many designers have never worked in this region and don’t understand what’s required. Moreno: We were involved with a new hotel in Cape Verde and the consultant had absolutely no experience of the African market. You need to know what support and after-sales service there is before you specify equipment. I would also say that there can be problems in trying to implement what a chef wants. Micheel: I remember a hotel that provided set menus but the kitchen was designed for buffets. There seems a clear mismatch between the needs of a chef and the capabilities of some designers and architects. Stanton: I worked for ten years as a marine chef so, although I don’t have experience of a hotel kitchen, I have a fair idea of how one works. But many in this industry have never had any experience at all.

Fernando Moreno, Middle East General Manager, Pilsa

Sigurd Rodrigues, Executive Chef, Four Points By Sheraton, Bur Dubai

Dan Stanton, Business Development Manager, Emirates Kitchen Equipment

Making kitchens better by design Round table sponsored by:

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Round table

David Miras, Executive Chef/F&B Manager, Al Maya Desert Resort & Spa

Sascha Triemer, Executive Chef, Atlantis, The Palm

Uwe Micheel, Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek

Christopher Bateman, Executive Chef, Jumeirah Creekside Hotel

Whatever the situation and equipment, chefs deliver. Life may not be quite as manic or insane as the challenges faced by chefs on the TV reality show Extreme Chef, but the discipline of the kitchen means that diners get served even when the equipment causes problem. We got together a selection of Executive Chefs and kitchen equipment specialists to talk about the highs and lows of kitchen design.

Round table sponsored by: www.cpidubai.com

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Round table

Moreno: I’m still quite new to the Middle East but in other territories I was used to working with corporate chefs. We always recommend that consultants work with corporate chefs, otherwise there will be a conﬂict of interest. Stanton: These discussion can be quite delicate. If we step on toes when dealing with contractors or suppliers, then we don’t get the work. Sigurd Rodrigues: I think it’s very important that chefs are part of the network of experts involved in delivering a new kitchen. Designs often don’t match the requirements of chefs and what they need. At various times, I’ve had to work in a corridor or in a kitchen with no receiving area. I don’t understand how some kitchens get the necessary approvals to open when they’re not ﬁt for purpose.

Triemer: Even if a different chef has been involved in the process, then any chef will see the kitchen as workable. But it needs to make sense. Can chefs contribute more? Micheel: Kitchens tend to be mostly how we want them but we do need to be realistic and understand budgeting. I came to my hotel right in the middle of renovation - I was a chef but I had never built a kitchen, yet problems were very easy to spot such as there not being enough space to put trays into the ovens. Perhaps I was lucky because I had been involved in other openings so I could start from scratch and decide what I wanted from supply companies. In fact, through better design we managed to save $20,000 which meant we could upgrade equipment.

“AT VARIOUS TIMES, I’VE HAD TO WORK IN A CORRIDOR OR IN A KITCHEN WITH NO RECEIVING AREA. I DON’T UNDERSTAND HOW SOME KITCHENS GET THE NECESSARY APPROVALS TO OPEN WHEN THEY’RE NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE.” - Chef Sigurd Rodrigues

Round table sponsored by: The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Round table

You’d think that saving money would be something owners would be enthusiastic about? Triemer: Another problem is that you can start out fine, but over time you start to plan and open new outlets. At that stage, you have to work around the existing structure. Micheel: As chefs, we make things work! David Miras: I’d be very surprised if any chef has everything perfect! Moreno: I come back to the same point that it’s important for an operator to have a corporate chef, because any new chef joining a hotel will probably want a different set-up. There’s the issue too of hotels here offering banqueting and catering - hotels in Europe just don’t do catering. Miras: I remember the original Starwood office designing kitchens. Stanton: A critical area here are MEP requirements. Not everybody has knowledge of these. Rodrigues: That’s where the costs are. If you change one thing with MEP, you’ll need to change another and then another. Micheel: I think MEP more than the equipment is often the issue. Miras: Kitchens also need to change depending on what type of food they’re delivering. For example, a Thai kitchen with a couple of wok stations in not suitable for French food. Rodrigues: Any new chef will also want to make changes. We’ve all seen that. Stanton: Like buying your own house - you move in and want to change things. Micheel: And by the third one, you finally have what you want! Moreno: Everybody needs to adapt. Think of those restaurants in towers where you have architectural limitations and maybe kitchens on different levels. Stanton: That’s when you need to think outside the box. Imagine the problems of the kitchen at the top of Burj Khalifa... Micheel: I’d like to go back to Sascha’s point. The problems really come in phases two, three and four when you’re opening new outlets. One year on is the issue. Do badly designed kitchens significantly affect your ability to deliver? Micheel: It’s terrible when the kitchen affects the menu - that makes me annoyed. If I want a layout to the left and you want it to the right, that’s okay. It’s when the design doesn’t match the concept that you get problems.

“OWNERS OFTEN COMPLICATE THINGS BECAUSE THEY LIKE TO WORK WITH COMPANIES THAT THEY’RE COMFORTABLE WITH, WHO MAY NOT BE THE BEST CHOICE.” - Chef Christopher Bateman

Round table sponsored by: The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Round table

What equipment would you choose if you could? Micheel: Very few chefs can choose the equipment they want. It’s a trade off and we have to be ﬂexible. I remember when I started here that we had some equiment made in Sharjah. 20 years later and it’s still good but the European equipment from the same period has all gone. Does the weather here make things more complicated? Stanton: If you have experienced people working on the design then it’s not a problem, but those without experience...

Micheel: Air balance and heat extraction are the biggest challenges. Bateman: As you know, we have a cooking pod here and, even full with people, those aren’t issues. So it’s down to the quality of the people you use. Moreno: Architects often just don’t understand where we are. I know of one major project on hold because there’s no ventilation system. Unfortunately, we came to that one late. Stanton: Everyone thinks they can design a kitchen, but that’s not true. However, there are good designers and consultants out there.

Micheel: There’s one 5-star property in Dubai where, when the kitchen equipment arrived, they realised that there was no drain! How can anyone make a simple mistake like that? Micheel: there’s a hotel in Doha with four restaurants where there are seven convection ovens. You have to ask who the designer is connected to. Moreno: There’s this whole area of ‘Value engineering options’, where the pricing isn’t based on quality or on what chefs want. Then, if things go wrong, blame the consultant! People want a kitchen open and handed over, then it’s your headache. Often we refuse to work on projects unless there’s a certain quality level. Stanton: This is definitely a different market from Europe! Miras: I’ve found too that you can request a certain brand of equipment and then something else turns up supplied by another of the owner’s companies. Micheel: At the end of the day, who can deliver the right level of after-sales service in this market. Things are changing but in the past you’d have the situation where nobody carried spare parts. Triemer: People were interested in the sale. Once it was broken, it stayed broken. Micheel: I remember some equipment broke in our kitchen and three service guys turned up and just looked at the machine. I think our people had more knowledge than them - it was out of service for three weeks. Bateman: Chefs always find a way! Triemer: Yes, we complain then we make it work. Micheel: The problem is that the way we make it work is a waste of resources. Rodrigues: There’s always a way. Micheel: One important question: how many chefs have even met the owner? Stanton: Maybe when he comes to take the money! Moreno: Reaching owners is one of my main difficulties. Good design can save money and they should understand this. Look, for example, at how much cross-contamination could cost, yet it’s never a factor in the specifications. There’s a conflict here between owners and investors and the rest of us are the bad guys. Talking of bad guys, does anyone have horror design stories to share: Bateman: I’ve seen a kitchen in the pre-opening phase where it was located in an emergency

“I CAME TO MY HOTEL RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF RENOVATION - I WAS A CHEF BUT I HAD NEVER BUILT A KITCHEN, YET PROBLEMS WERE VERY EASY TO SPOT SUCH AS THERE NOT BEING ENOUGH SPACE TO PUT TRAYS INTO THE OVENS.” - Chef Uwe Micheel

Round table sponsored by: The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Round table

staircase without a door. How does anyone sign off on something like that? Triemer: You certainly get problems when you grow but there’s no MEP in place. Micheel: How many of us now have a Club Lounge that’s also a restaurant? Before, you’d serve coffee and croissants at breakfast but now you need to provide a good choice to guests else there will be complaints. But these spaces were not designed to be kitchens. Miras: How about a kitchen for an Italian restaurant where the contractor finished the walls before anyone realised they couldn’t get the pizza oven in! Moreno: Back in Spain, there was a hotel where they had to plate for banquets in the parking lot. Stanton: I’ve seen designs for a kitchen with backto-back work areas without room enough for someone to work there. Micheel: What about the hotel where they had to get the equipment in via helicopter? Rodrigues: That’s why we need to be involved from the start. The base line is this for pastry, for instance: of the oven isn’t a good one, then there’s just no point doing pastry. Micheel: To repeat, it’s all down to understanding the concept. Do you see things improving? Triemer: Suppliers need to have people who can fix things. That’s critical. Micheel: There are a lot of equipment suppliers out there but I think the top four or five are very close. I would ask this: why sell equipment, if you don’t offer after-sales service? We have a steamer that’s now 37 years old, but we have to make spare parts for it ourselves. Moreno: Another area for us is this: with many high-end combi-ovens, we find chefs only using

5-10% of the options. In that case, spend less and increase your budget elsewhere. Rodrigues: Sure, we probably only use 10%. We all could save money if we had engineers who knew what they were doing. Micheel: With the team we have in our kitchens, certainbly some of our equipment is too complicated. We need to get back to basics. Moreno: One thing we do is allocate the most common spare parts for equipment and train your engineers to make repairs. Miras: I used to have a great kitchen technician, but now it’s impossible to ﬁnd one. We’ve been looking for two years! Triemer: They can certainly make your life easier. Micheel: It’s all to do with changes in equipment, I think. With the older kitchen equipment, our mechanics could ﬁx them; now, they’re too complicated and they can’t. Miras: I’ve had to wait for spare parts to come from Europe and that took four weeks!

Moreno: There are more and more suppliers inn the local market - every week I hear of a new kitchen contractor. Owners and operators need to be careful who they pick, in terms of service and ﬁnancial stability. Stanton: And these new players are forcing prices down, which means less service. That won’t please you. Moreno: As I said before, we really recommend that a chef provides technical detail, not the client. Micheel: Things are changing. Chefs are getting more involved.

THANKS Our thanks go to Chef Christopher Bateman, the team at Nomad and Jumeirah Creekside Hotel for hosting this round table.

Round table sponsored by: The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Chefs with style Traditional chefs' whites remain a standard in the food industry, part of a tradition that dates back to the mid-19th century. However, times are changing and, increasingly, chefs are looking at more stylish and individual clothing to set themselves apart.

Uniforms by Emile Rassam

ommon in kitchens around the world is the traditional chef’s uniform of toque, white double-breasted jacket, and checkered pants. It’s both practical and a clean indentifier of a chef’s position in the brigade cle - tthe taller the toque, the more senior the chef. The jacket can be reversed to hide stains. The thick Th cotton protects the chef from heat. The checked co trousers again hide stains. tro In more traditional restaurants, especially traditional French restaurants, the white chef's tra coat is considered part of a traditional uniform co and serious chefs wear white coats to signify the an importance and high regard of their profession. im These traditions date back to the mid-19th century when French Chef Marie-Antoine Careme ce is credited with developing the current chef's uniform. And, later, French Master Chef Georges un Auguste Escoffier encouraged his kitchen staff Au to wear suits outside of work to signify their professionalism. pr For many chefs, these traditions hold still but, increasingly, younger chefs are seeking a hipper in image and the toque has given way to the tight im cap. Other chefs, through personal choice or to ca help differentiate their restaurant, have discarded he traditional white and can now be seen in black, red tra or blue ‘whites’. Ho are these trends developing? To find an How answer, we discussed the issues with three of the an region’s key uniform suppliers: re N Nicolas Dujardin, Area Manager Middle East A Asia, Kwintet Middle East (Bragard) V Vicky Hales, Emile Rassam D David Sprakes, Design & Production Manager, A Ronai Ho much do you feel chef uniforms reflect on the How image of the restaurant? im Nicolas Dujardin: Chef uniforms are, with inner Ni decoration, the main image of the restaurant. A de beautiful and tidy uniform will obviously provide be an image of high quality and global hygiene. With an increasing number of open kitchens, the kitchen uniform reveals the pride image of the chefs un offering a culinary experience to its customers. of Vicky Hales: This very much depends on whether Vi or not it's an open kitchen and, frankly, even when it is they only try to incorporate an element of the

The Pro Chef Middle East / April Ap A pri rril il il 2013 20 2 0 013 13 1 3

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Market focus

image to complement the rest of the wardrobe but the majority are keen to make sure they maintain the clean cut whites. David Sprakes: Enormously. While the floor staff of a restaurant are the ‘public’ face of the venue, its kitchen staff are the engine that drive it, so their uniforms need to look good and be practical. A large number of restaurants have kitchens which can be viewed by their diners, so the kitchen staff are very much part of the visual message of the restaurant. Please rate these features in terms of importance and explain why: comfort, style, versatility, durability. Dujardin: Cooking is an art. Feeling confortable in your uniform is the basis of being 100% focused on food details. Our uniforms, despite their well known qualities of classy design and duration, are providing to the ones wearing them, a real comfort of freshness, liberty of movements and pride of wearing a worldwide known brand. Hales: One, safety: this is the top element to consider when designing chefs’ clothing. Two, comfort: it’s very important for the chef to feel light and free in his movements, so many features that we’re implementing to ensure the comfort of the chefs. And fabrics and cuts now play a big role in the chef's selection. Three, style and durability: while top chefs are very focused on ensuring they have a jacket that reflects their own personal style and identity, for the rest of the kitchen they tend to focus on something that is smart, comfortable and above all durable! Four, versatility: in most cases they would select a classic style jacket in order to have the flexibility/versatility to move the chef around if needed. Sprakes: For the majority of our customers, durability and comfort are certainly the most important factors. Kitchens are very demanding workplaces and our customers need to know that their uniforms will perform. To that end, all our fabrics are sourced based upon their abilities. We undertake vigorous testing to determine how the fabrics will react to repeated wear and washing. From shrinkage, to colorfastness and abrasion tests. Only when a fabric performs to an acceptable level is it considered for use in our range. Do you see an increasing shift away from the traditional ‘whites’? Dujardin: Actually the demand of coloured jackets is increasing as outlets try to get their own design, to present themselves as different to each others and get exclusivity on a specific design. This is why our Bragard 2013 collection is anticipating this demand and offering many new colourful designs. However, for a preparation kitchen, for executive teams, for traditional cuisine, white remains a must. This is an image of tradition, purity, hygiene and guarantee of fine dining. Hales: Not at all. In fact I feel there is a greater focus now on back to basics: the traditional whites and, to some extent, black jackets. Everyone has tried the multicoloured jackets and has now

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CHEFS’ VIEWS

“I think outlets choose their uniforms to match their concepts especially when they have open kitchens and the chefs are always visible to the customers. I think some of the more funky uniforms are probably a bit more fun for customers to see. The more traditional chef whites seem to be still worn in hotel main kitchens and European style closed kitchens.” Ben Tobitt, Head Chef, The Ivy, Dubai

“I do not believe that the traditional white will ever face out. All colourful stuff is fashion and we know fashions come and go, some stay for a short time, some stay longer. Even from the food hygiene point of view, more guys are going back to white uniforms.” Uwe Micheel, President of Emirates Cukinary Guild and Director Kitchens, Radisson Blu Deira Creek

“Chefs whites will never go away as they are part of the landscape of traditional cooking. It's just fun to change them from time to time. I only started to wear black two years ago it's still not something I am used to after wearing white for 25 years.” Mark Patten, VP Culinary, Atlantis The Palm Dubai

“Yes, very much the classic look has gone and chef whites are going as fashion and design changes. However, the classic look still stays with Executive Chefs - they are surely very proud about it. Having outlet themed chefs uniforms brings a great add on and drive towards the outlet concept. I believe it has grown as the show or open kitchen got into place and chefs got more visible and open to have contact with guests, which is good as we are surely up to meet the client direct and not just hiding behind the stove.” Christian Gradnitzer, Group Culinary Director, Jumeirah Group

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Market focus

realised you really can't do better! Sprakes: Not at all. Most of our customers still opt for traditional ‘whites’. The colour and the style were developed over 150 years ago, not only to be practical, but to represent professionalism and cleanliness in the kitchen, and those principles are still held today. Obviously the garments have evolved over time, and there are a myriad of style options - but they all stem from the traditional ‘whites’. Coloured jackets and trend driven styles are much more popular for show and open kitchens, where the staff are visible to the diner, and the venue wants a kitchen uniform that forms an overall part of its visual identity. What technologies are impacting clothing design for chefs? Dujardin: Textile technology is always improving. Technical fabrics may offer much more comfort due to special weaving or different composition. Mechanical stretch fabric for instance will provide good liberty of movement. a mixed composition may facilitate the way to maintain your uniform. Apart from our famous high level cotton, Bragard particularly develops new technologies to continuously present new options. Coolmax is offering an exceptional breathable comfort. Hales: To ensure increased comfort they are all now looking to use breathability features/fabrics that promote the wellness of the chefs wearing them. Sprakes: Increasingly, fabrics that started life in sportswear are now being used in chefs clothing. As in their original incarnation, these fabrics are used to help make the garments more comfortable to wear and work in, with moisture wicking fabric panels, helping the garments to breathe.

Bragard detail Dujardin: The image of a restaurant must be constant. That is why the design of the selected uniforms must be also kept for a long period. It is important that the client will feel in a familiar environment while coming back to a restaurant that they like. This is why we have constant repeating business to keep a harmony in each restaurant we are working with. Hales: Approximately 70% of our business is repeat with the remainder being normally referral. Sprakes: A large proportion of our business is repeat orders - it’s rare for us to lose a customer.

that they are looking for stylish designs to give a nice image of themselves. Hales: Absolutely - the cut and silhouette of the jacket is now paramount for chefs! Sprakes: Some are, yes! Like any aspect of design, different people like different things. Some chefs prefer a traditional look, while others want something more colourful or a more minimal and modern style. We cater for all tastes with our bespoke design service. We sit down with the chefs, discuss what they want and develop garments that meet their requirements.

Are chefs increasingly stylish in their choice of clothing? Dujardin: Sure. As I said chefs are artists and are more and more under the spotlight. It is logical

What is the key benefit of buying from you? Dujardin: Firstly, the key benefit is to buy a branded uniform. Over the last 80 years we have proved our quality and seriousness. Secondly, all our items are ready made ones and stored, which means that they are immediately available for delivery. Thirdly, our designs are constant ones and are continued over the years with strict European quality controls. So you are sure that you will find again any of your selected items along the following years. Hales: Tailor-made service whether design or production. The team is fully dedicated to listen to the chefs needs and wishes while offering a wide range of fabrics, features and services. Sprakes: One of the key benefits of our Kitchen Collection, is the fact that items are available from stock here in Dubai.

What do you see as the current trends in the market? Dujardin: The current trend in the market is clearly to work with reliable suppliers and get a longterm relationship. Chefs want high quality and a wide range to select different designs. Hales: While culinary jackets have always been known as double breasted, a considerable amount of chefs are now choosing alternatively single breasted with creative decorative piping. With the traditional unbeatable white cotton, new ideas of piping and construction are becoming points of interest. How long on average would you expect clothing to last a chef? Dujardin: A good set of uniforms will last from 12 to 18 months for cooks and from 18 to 24 months for executive chefs. Hales: Many factors play a fundamental role here: material, par level, laundry however a whole 12 months should be the least average life to expect from a good jacket. Sprakes: With a fair allocation and correct laundering, we would expect up to 18 months wear out of a chefs uniform. What percentage of your business is repeat?

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

Modern style from Ronai

The future of chefs’ uniforms - function or fashion? Dujardin: A chef’s uniform will become more and more fashion and distinguish one. However, it has to keep functional as a ﬁrst quality. Uniforms remain a daily wear and must be comfortable and practical. This is how we design. Hales: An equal combination of both! Sprakes: Because of the job chefs do and the environment they work in, function will always be most important factor in chef uniforms. Also, there is a great pride and respect in the uniform and what it represents. However, because we’ve all become much more sophisticated in our knowledge of clothing and fabric technologies are developing all the time, the overall style and performance aspect of chefs' uniforms will continue to subtly evolve.

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Country focus

United States A of Artisan From self-sufﬁciency to industrialised food production to the rediscovery of artisanal and farmto-table taste, the history of food in the United States is a fascinating story. We explore the duality.

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

s the world’s dominant processed food supplier, the United States has a disproportionate influence on our diets. We only have to look around this region to see the major impact of America - burger bars and ice cream parlours, pizza joints and diners fill every shopping mall, supermarket shelves groan under the weight of US brands and adverts for different sodas assault us on every side. And, at the recent Gulfood exhibition, the massive US Pavilion offered regional buyers and distributors a cornucopia of new processed offerings. It seems as if the battle is lost and we are entering a world of industrial cupcakes and sugared frosting, especially when horror stories emerge of some of the latest trends in so-called State Fair snacks - deep fried butter on a stick, anyone? Yet, paradoxically, at the same time, the US food sector has never been more vibrant with the rediscovery of ‘real’ food. Against all the odds, the Slow Food movement is taking hold and food lovers - admittedly mostly from the West and North-East coasts - are embracing age-old standards in animal husbandry, crop growth and produce delivery. We can trace a lot of this back to the influence of Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, the archetypal post-hippy, California dream restaurant where chefs stressed taste and provenance over anything. To this day, the restaurant prides itself on relationships with producers and buys through its established network of local farmers, ranchers and dairies. And, although its time may have passed as the arbiter of modern American cuisine, the continuing influence of the Chez Panisse belief systems informs everything that is interesting in modern American cuisine, from farm to table, to locavores, to artisan bread or butter production, to heirloom varieties and so on. Of course, it’s easy to point out that such movements are merely rediscovering what countries like France and Italy have known and enjoyed for years - that taste and provenance should have priority at the table. As Waters wrote in 1980, “My one unbreakable rule has always been to use only the freshest and finest ingredients available.” What, however, is true is the influence of Waters and her restaurant - ex-chefs have spread out from Chez Panisse over the last 40 years to spread modern California cooking, artisan food production and respect for ingredients, acting like bacilli spreading from the mother spore. But, in all this, what exactly does ‘artisanal’ mean in food terms? Most importantly, artisan is not a label but rather an approach to food. Marketers - and, to some extent, producers, have adopted the same kind of naming cycle that saw natural turn to organic and then local to suggest a cycle of premium/gourmet to artisan to heirloom. In short, we need to keep the distinction in mind between ‘artisan’ as in a quality product produced with love and, to a large extent, traditional methods and a product such as a Domino's ‘artisan pizza’ where marketing hype is at the forefront.

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The word, of course, used to mean simply handcrafted. Now, according to Datamonitor, more than 800 new food products have been labelled ‘artisan’ over the past half decade, including supermarket bread and mass processed frozen meals. One American bread company is even branding itself as ‘artisan fast food’! We should reserve the term for a person or company that makes a high-quality, distinctive product in small quantities, usually by hand and using traditional methods. Tied up in that concept is the whole idea of pride in craftmanship and an implicit rejection of overly processed, massproduced foods linked to big corporations. All of this is to be commended. However, as food lovers based in the Middle East, we face problems in that many artisan producers are not geared up for exports, partly because their production quotas are not large enough and partly because they are deeply rooted in a locavore mindset. That’s where the US trade organisations play a key role, giving support, advice and acting as information brokers to small producers seeking export markets. Some like the US Dairy Export Council (USDEC) are obviously largely focused on what we might consider non-artisan cheese and dairy products the USA, after all, is the world’s largest supplier of cheese and the vast proportion of that goes to uses such as pizza toppings. However, an increased regional interest in small scale US cheeses in

The United States is t

SPREAD IT! Your choice of butter used to be simple: salted or unsalted? Now, almost by stealth, there's a butter revolution in the US: cultured butters, artisanal butters and butters that change colour with the seasons and what the cows have been eating. Many commentators, in fact, are drawing parallels with the state of bacon in the USA: handcrafted just half a century ago, it became a mass-produced homogonised product only to be resurrected as good, handcrafted food. Butter followed bread in restaurants, as chefs got serious about the combination. Now, there are leading producers such as the Straus Family Creamery and the Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery, as well as boutique suppliers such as Vermont’s Animal Farm

which supplies both Thomas Keller's Per Se and The French Laundry. Again, this is mirroring Europe. Celebrated French chef Cyrial Lignac, for example, serves a boutique butter from Brittany that contains flecks of seaweed. The Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery started making cultured butter over a dozen years ago, patterning it on French butters. In a cultured butter, raw cream is pasteurised (as per US requiurements) and then selected strains of bacteria are added to create required flavour profiles. Another trend growing fast is the so-called compound butter, where things are mixed into the butter creating both a butter and the ready made base for a simple sauce.

ARTISANAL IS THE ENEMY OF ARTIFICE AND COMPLEXITY. IT RETURNS US TO A SIMPLER WORLD, ANOTHER TIME, ANOTHER WORLD

he wor ld

’s large st prod ucer of c heese, with...

For more information, contact USDEC Middle East (AMFI) in Beirut, Lebanon 2 amfime@cyberia.net.lb 2 961-1) 74378, 741223 The U.S. Dairy Export Council is a free resource to help you find additional information on U.S. cheese and distribution channels. We are a non-profit, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of the U.S. dairy industry.

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April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Country focus

the Middle East is the result of much focused marketing, aimed at showing that American cheese producers can rival those from Europe. For USDEC, the Middle East is currently among the fastest growing regions in the world for food imports: last year, Middle East GDP grew by 5%, led by Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Egypt, whilst the MENA region is almost the ﬁfth largest market for US dairy products with total imports reaching $339m last year. Population growth and a lack of large scale domestic production means that imports of cheese, milk powders and butter will continue to rise, especially as local cheese production is mostly limited to salty, white cheese varieties. At present, the US holds 13% market share for cheese, with Saudi Arabia continuing to be the largest market in the region. Although the bulk of those sales are via food service companies to casual dining applications such as burgers, wraps, sandwiches and pizzas, USDEC is viewing the continued rise of new 4- and 5-star hotels with many new ﬁne dining outlets as offering real opportunities for more niche dairy products, especially as the larger retail outlets such as Carrefour and Geant are offering consumers more opportunities to experiment with less wellknown American varieties.

DEFINING THE ARTISANAL In the US, the artisanal movement has come to cheese, salt, bread, pickles, quick serve restaurants, chocolate, beer, olive oil and ice cream. A pivotal year in its development was 2004, a year when a number of large baking conglomerations lost major sales - Sara Lee and General Mills were down 14%, for example. However, sales for La Brea Bakery - “America's Great Artisan Bakery” - were up 38.7%. The Los Angeles-based bakery started out in 1989, at a time when squishy, pre-sliced white bread in a bag was ubiquitous. In contrast, La Brea Bakery created crusty varieties such as olive, walnut and rosemary that marked a revolution in the US bread sector.

The lessons of the small company on the artisan movement as a whole are useful. They were driven by these principles: A preference for things that are human scale. A preference for things that are hand made. A preference for things that are relatively raw and untransformed. A preference for things that are unbranded. A preference for things that are personalised. A preference for a new transparency. A preference for things that are authentic. A preference for things marked by locality. A preference for the new connoisseurship. A preference for the simpliﬁed.

For example at Salon Culinaire at this year’s Gulfood, US cheeses were featured in five of the winning recipes: Monterey Jack cheese wanton ravioli, asparagus tagliatalle, portobello mushroom pave, confit tomato, salsify, grain mustard cream, spinach foam - Bronze award. Bitter gourd stuffing cheddar cheese with pistachio with sweet potato, served with balsamic reduction - Gold award. Cucumber cream cheese cannelloni, confit tomato, balsamic pearls, crushed pistachio and olive oil powder - Bronze award. US cream cheese and pepper terrine with fig and

“HIGH-END US CHEESES ARE NOT YET AVAILABLE IN THE MARKET. THIS IS WHAT WE ARE WORKING TOWARDS WITH OUR MARKETING PROGRAMMES. MORE MAINSTREAM SPECIALTY CHEESES ARE, HOWEVER, AVAILABLE IN THE GCC: MONTEREY JACK, PEPPER JACK AND SO ON.” - Angélique Hollister, Vice President, Cheese Marketing, US Dairy Export Council

…an award-winning po r t fol io of U. S . c he es e a nd…

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Did you knowâ&#x20AC;Ś The United States is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest cheese producer, with an award-winning portfolio of over 400 premium cheese varieties, from European-style cheeses to American Originals

Enhance your culinary creationsâ&#x20AC;Ś with cheese from the United States

Pepper Jack: Crafted in the

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Roasted Mushroom and U.S. Pepper Jack Ravioli Makes approximately 140 raviolis

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The U.S. Pepper Jack cheese makes a nice creamy blend with the deep ďŹ&#x201A;avors of the roasted vegetables. The pepper heat from the cheese is a great combination with a rich red sauce, but also works well in a white sauce. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to top the dish with some U.S. Parmesan or U.S. Asiago.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Chef John Esser, Consultant Chef for USDEC

Ingredients:

Procedure:

1k cremini mushrooms, quartered 300g yellow onions, chopped 150g garlic cloves, chopped 200ml olive oil 2 tbsp Italian herbs, dry 1 tbsp salt 1 tbsp black pepper 700g U.S. Pepper Jack cheese, shredded 15g ďŹ&#x201A;at leaf parsley, minced Pasta sheets, thawed (or your own fresh house-made sheets)

Pre-heat convection oven to 200 C. Place mushrooms and onion in a large bowl. In small bowl mix garlic, olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper; pour mixture over mushrooms and toss well. Place mixture on sheet pans in a single layer. Roast for 10 minutes; decrease oven temperature to 140 C and roast for another 30 minutes. Take mushroom mixture, chop ďŹ ne and chill. When chilled, mix in cheese and parsley. Place 10g of mixture into each ravioli and seal tightly. Filled ravioli can be steamed or boiled; they can be fresh frozen on parchment paper for later use.

U.S. cheese is already available in your market, check today with your local importer/distributor or contact USDEC for a list of local suppliers: # $! )* . !#(+* ! &'& . % #$ %-%! , !(# &!* $ . "'&!

The U.S. Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a free resource to help you ďŹ nd additional information on U.S. cheese applications and distribution channels. We are a non-proďŹ t, independent membership organization that represents the global trade interests of U.S. dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders.

Country focus

walnut chutney, mix beans tower with passion fruit vinaigrette, watermelon carpaccio with micro mix and citrus emulation - Bronze award. Vegetable and cream cheese terrine - Bronze award. But how fast are artisan exports increasing to the region? According to Angélique Hollister, Vice President, Cheese Marketing for the US Dairy Export Council, USDEC “does not look strictly at the export of artisan-style cheeses to service the high-end global foodservice sector but looks at it from the perspective of US specialty cheese, which covers, of course, Old World type cheeses but also what we call American Originals. Some of these can be more commodity cheese because they are produced in large quantities (like Monterey Jack, Colby and Pepper Jack, for example), but they are special because they are only made in the United States. And, of course, some American Originals are cheeses exclusively handcrafted by small US cheese makers (which are therefore by deﬁnition more artisan-style).” What she can conﬁrm is that “exports of specialty cheese have grown over the past few years, though it is hard to quantify as we cannot track the data by variety. However, based on

USDEC The US Dairy Export Council (USDEC) is a nonproﬁt, independent membership organisation that represents the global trade interests of US dairy producers, proprietary processors and cooperatives, ingredient suppliers and export traders. USDEC aims to enhance US global competitiveness through programmes in market development that build global demand for US dairy products, resolve market access barriers and advance industry trade policy goals. As the world's largest producer of cow's milk, the US dairy industry offers a world-class and everexpanding portfolio of cheese varieties as well as nutritional and functional dairy ingredients (eg skim milk powder, lactose, whey proteins) to meet international customers' diverse product innovation needs.

feedback from and knowledge of the markets, mainstream American Originals are increasingly popular even in non-traditional cheese markets, because they are something new and easy to eat, as ﬂavours are mild and easy to combine with other foods.” Apparently, artisan-style cheeses are also shipped to the EU (UK and France) showing that US cheeses can compete with European. However, “most of these companies are too small to export on their own - they might have the ambition, but they don't have the resources to do so. This is why there are companies that consolidate, to take those wonderful cheeses beyond US borders. But there are some specialty companies who are actively pursuing export opportunities on their own. All these companies are passionate about what they do and are eager to share their high-end cheese with the world.” She’s hopeful too of change. “Over the past couple of decades, US specialty/artisan cheese companies have gained tremendous recognition from US consumers who are now looking for those handcrafted and local cheeses and we have already seen some of these cheeses welcomed by buyers around the world. US cheese makers are as talented and dedicated as any of their European counterparts, so this is why USDEC is working to build awareness of our cheese industry.” What would her three ‘last meal’ US cheeses be? “Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Uplands Cheese - a raw milk, farmstead cheese made only from May to October and a great Swiss type cheese. Petit Frére from Crave Brothers - also a farmstead, washed rind cheese which can get quite assertive with age. Lastly, Cheddar cheese Mango Fire from Henning’s creamery - a Cheddar combined with mango and habanero peppers, fun and unusual for a cheese.”

Bitter gourd stufﬁng cheddar cheese

WANT MORE CHEESE? USDEC is organising a US Dairy Business Conference in November in Dubai where key Middle East buyers will be invited to meet and interact with US dairy suppliers. At the same time, a special event for chefs will see US cheese experts and chefs educating local chefs about US cheese and its many applications. The day will conclude with a cheese reception displaying what the US cheese industry has to offer, with a delegation of US milk producers in attendance. Photos courtesy US Dairy Export Council, © 2013

…a selection of U.S.

cheese

to delig ht chefs

everywhe re!

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Pimp my plate

aul Kennedy starts with an apology. “Things have been crazy busy the last few weeks with Taste of Dubai and so on and, frankly, I just didn’t have time to give your original challenge enough time to do it justice.” That challenge would have stretched him at the best of times: a Thai makeover of a traditional British Sunday roast with all the veg and trimmings! Instead, he offers, “a really classic British dish” - fish and chips. It should be interesting as, apart from their use as a bulking agent in some curries, potatoes are not a real part of the Thai diet, with rice obviously taking the key role as daily starch. Kennedy began his career working under Albert Roux at The Grand in Amsterdam, a great entry into the world of fine dining. Following two years as a commis chef, he transferred to Slaley Hall in the UK, where Albert Roux also consulted. As chef de partie, he learnt the importance of using localised produce from the privately owned farm. Developing as a senior chef de partie, Paul and a team of chefs catered for the American Ryder Cup team at The Belfry. In 2004, he moved to Dubai as a sous chef with MMI Hospitality, working with outlets including Left Bank and Apres. As his role evolved to operations head chef, he managed the openings of kitchens across the GCC with involvement from start to finish includomg designing new kitchen layouts to creating dishes for the menus. He joined the Landmark Group in June 2010, as Brand Chef for one of Foodmark's international outlets, Mango Tree, where he heads a team of 25 across both the Dubai and Doha properties. His passion for Thai cuisine has been key to the restaurant's strong standing. Fish and chips is rather an alien dish to Thai cuisine, isn’t it? Absolutely. In fact, although the dish looks pretty familiar the difference is in the use of Thai flavours which lifts it to a new level. So what I’ve done is make more of an Asian, tempura batter and added flavours from Thailand. Not all of them are going to work, of course - royal basil would have got completely lost in this. But that basic combination of chilli, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and fish sauce with sugar gives it the Thai touch. Why did you choose sea bass? Well, it’s a fish we use a lot here in the restaurant. Ideally, I’d have liked to use a fish from Thailand -

We’re Thai-ing tonight! Take a chef with a particular style. Throw him or her a recipe from a different global cuisine and get them to rethink the dish to suit their menu. Sit back and watch the result. Sounds fun? It is, according to Paul Kennedy, Brand Chef of Mango Tree. 28

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Pimp my plate

STEP BY STEP COOKING GUIDE:

Step 1: Mise en place

Step 2: The batter mix

Step 3: Mixing the batter

Step 4: Prepping the chips

Step 5: Peas are now mushy!

Step 6: Trimming up the lime

Step 7: The ﬁsh now ready

Step 8: Plated!

the snake’s head fish - but it’s prohibited here. It’s an extremely aggressive fish that’s also territorial so there are concerns about it taking over from other species in many countries. However, sea bass is meaty and holds up well to the frying. We import it from Europe. Any other fish you could have used? It might have been interesting with catfish, but you can’t just buy the fillets, you have to buy the entire fish. Did you know it’s said that in Bangkok that catfish are so numerous in many of the canals that you can walk from one bank to the other on top of them? How did you approach the dish? What was your thought process? I’d done a similar dish in the past and really like the possibilities of tom yung salt - that’s taking the key ingredients of tom yung soup and dehydrating them. Thai food as you know is all about balancing of the flavours - if there’s too much chilli, for example, then you add sugar. Any other ways you could have developed it? I think there are possibilities with the mushy peas, such as using baby aubergines to make a kind of aubergine caviar. I believe we’ve come up with a good lunch dish, a special, I don’t think the owners would want it on the full menu! After all, we try to be a very authentic Thai restaurant and are currently sourcing about 80% of our produce and ingredients from there. Do you have any sourcing problems? I could do with more fish sauce! We’re getting through up to three litres a day.

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How did you get into Thai cooking? It’s a cuisine that becoming more and more popular and it seemed that everyone who went there on holiday and did a quick hotel course was suddenly a Thai chef. I’d had a classical French training and was at that stage when I wanted to master something completely different. This opportunity came up and I spent time in Bangkok learning the cuisine. At ﬁrst, the Thai chefs looked at me a bit suspiciously - you, who’s this big European who thinks he can cook our food? But you gain respect through what you do.

Do you see diners wanting a more authentic Thai taste? My brief was to try and make the food more to the Western palate and we can always tell when Thais come in to dine because the tickets will say ‘Thai spice’ on them. The reality is that the Thais don’t believe we can eat food as hot and spicy as they do. That said, I think we’re seeing a trend for more spice from our customers. Personally, I’m a fan of the food from the North-East of the country where they use dry spice to create big ﬂavours, rather than the more curry style of the South.

Traditional fish and chips Serves 4 Ingredients: Fish 55g plain flour 55g cornflour sea salt and pepper 1 tsp baking powder 75 ml cup dark beer 75 ml sparkling water 200g thick white fish fillets (four fillets from sustainable stock) Chips 1kg potatoes, peeled 1 lt vegetable oil Method 1 In a large bowl mix together all but 2 tbsp of the flour, cornflour and baking powder. Season lightly with a tiny pinch of salt and pepper. Using a fork, whisking continuously, add the beer and the water

to the ﬂour mixture and continue mixing until you have a thick, smooth batter. Place the batter in the fridge to rest for between 30 minutes and an hour. Cut the potatoes into 1cm slices then slice these into 1cm-wide chips. Place the chips into a colander and rinse under cold running water. Place the washed chips into a pan of cold water,

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Pimp my plate

bring to a gentle boil and simmer for three to four minutes. Drain carefully through a colander then dry with kitchen paper. Keep in the fridge covered with kitchen paper until needed Meanwhile, lay the fish fillets on a sheet of kitchen paper and pat dry. Season very lightly with a little sea salt. Heat the oil to 120C in a deep-fat fryer. Blanch the chips a few handfuls at a time in the fat for a couple of minutes. Do not brown them. Once they seem drier and slightly cooked remove from the fat and drain. Keep to one side. Place the 2 tbsp of flour reserved from the batter mix into a shallow bowl. Toss each fish fillet in the flour, shake off any excess, dip into the batter

then carefully lower each fillet into the hot oil. Fry for about eight minutes or until the batter is crisp and golden, turning the fillets from time to time with a large slotted spoon. Once cooked remove the fillets from the hot oil, drain on kitchen paper, cover with greaseproof paper and keep hot. Heat the oil to 200C then cook the chips until golden and crisp about five minutes. Serve immediately with the hot fish accompanied by your favourite condiment.

Traditional mushy peas Ingredients 8 oz dried marrowfat peas

2 tsp bicarbonate of soda salt and pepper Method 1 Place the peas in a large bowl that will allow them to expand. Add the bicarbonate and cover with 1.5 pints boiling water and stir to make sure the bicarbonate has dissolved. Leave to soak overnight, or for a minimum of 12 hours. 2 Drain the peas in a colander, then place in a large saucepan, cover again with cold water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for approx 30 minutes or until the peas have softened and turned mushy. 3 Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve hot.

Thai style ﬁsh and chips with Sriracha mayonnaise Serves 2

1/2 tbsp Sriracha hot sauce 1tbsp mayonnaise, preferably home-made salt and pepper

Ingredients Fish 4 ﬁllets skinless and boneless sea bass ﬂour for dusting

Method 1 Add Sriracha sauce and mayonnaise into bowl and mix well. 2 Season with salt and pepper if required.

Batter 100g all purpose flour 175 ml ice cold water 1 egg yolk salt and pepper 1 tsp dried red Thai chilli flakes 1 tsp white sugar 3 kaffir lime leaves 1 tsp fish sauce

Kaffir lime, mint and coconut flavoured mushy peas Serves 2 Ingredients 6 tbsp green peas 1 tsp salted butter 3 kaffir lime leaves 2 mint leaves 2 tbsp coconut milk 1 tsp roasted dessicated coconut juice of 1/2 lime salt and pepper

Method 1 Finely chop the kaffir lime leaves and place into a mixing bowl along with the chili and sugar. Add the flour and mix. Add the egg yolk and whisk in the iced water. Season with salt, pepper and add the fish sauce. 2 Leave in fridge as you want the batter to be as cold as possible. This will ensure a crispy batter when frying. Chips Ingredients 3 large potatoes vegetable oil for frying Method 1 Lay the potato on a chopping board and slice a side off. Roll onto the straight side and cut the potato into around four pieces. Cut each piece, including the piece you first sliced off, into chips. 2 Heat the vegetable oil to around 130C. Blanch chips in the oil until soft but no colour. Remove from oil and place onto kitchen paper to soak up oil. Tom yum salt Ingredients 1 stick lemongrass 1 inch piece galangal

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

2 kaffir lime leaves 1/2 tsp dried red Thai chili flakes zest of 1 lime 1 clove garlic 1tbsp salt Method 1 Chop the lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime and garlic and place onto a tray along with the lime zest. Set the oven to the lowest temperature and place the tray in the oven - if too hot leave the door slightly open. 2 The ingredients will dehydrate and become dry but retain the flavour. Once dehydrated and cooled, place into a food processor along with the salt and red chili and blitz. It will be salty with the flavour of tom yum soup. Sriracha mayonnaise Ingredients

Method 1 In a medium hot pan, melt butter and add the peas and cook until soft. 2 Finely chop the kaffir lime and mint leaves and add to peas. Add coconut milk, desiccated coconut and lime juice, then cook for a further five minutes. Place into a food processor and pulse blitz a few times until resembles mushy peas. Season with the salt and pepper to taste. To serve the dish 1 Heat a pan of oil to 180C. On a tray or casserole dish, add some flour then lay the sea bass fillets and cover in the flour. Remove and shake off any excess. Place into the batter and cover. Carefully place into the hot oil and cook for four to five minutes until golden brown and crispy, then remove and place onto kitchen paper. 2 Place the blanched chips into the oil and fry until golden brown and crispy. Remove and place on kitchen paper and season with the tom yum salt. 3 Arrange on two plates and serve with lime wedges, mushy pea quenelles and the Sriracha mayonnaise.

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Ingredients

On the menu

ALSO KNOWN AS... Oca has a number of names in different countries, which include: Apilla in Bolivia. Apiña in Bolivia and Peru. Batata-baroa or mandioquinha in Brazil. Cuiba or quiba in Venezuela. Hibia, huasisai, or ibi in Colombia. Macachin or miquichi in Venezuela. Papa extranjera in Mexico. Truffette acide in France. Yam in Polynesia and New Zealand, though it is unrelated to the more generally known yam.

We continue our new series looking at ingredients that may not be part of your usual repertoire, with a look at oca which is an incredibly popular tuber in South America, second only to the potato as the favourite root vegetable in Bolivia and Peru.

hat exactly is oca? It’s a perennial plant with tubers similar to potatoes. However, these are wrinkly and very brightly coloured in red, orange, yellow, purple and pink. Depending on the variety - and there are over 50 - they have a ﬂavour ranging from a lemon ﬂavoured potato

to a sweet chestnut. Unlike potatoes, oca can be eaten raw, but they’re also delicious boiled, baked, steamed, stewed, grilled, fried or candied. Oca is sometimes referred to as one of the lost crops of the Incas. Strangely, despite its potential to become a globally cultivated crop, it is still enjoyed only in a few limited areas - South America, Mexico and New

Zealand, where it’s called the New Zealand yam. It is thought to be one of the oldest crops of the Andean region since tubers have been found in various early tombs there. It supplies a rich source of carbohydrates, calcium and iron - some high-protein varieties even contain more than 9% protein.

2 tbsp minced shallot 2 tsp minced garlic 2 tbsp ﬁnely chopped jalapeño pepper, or more 3 tbsp lime juice 7 tbsp olive oil

Method: 1 Steam tubers in a tightly covered container over high heat for 20 to 25 minutes to al dente stage, then remove from heat and pour into a large work bowl. Toss with cold wine and cover. Set aside to cool.

Oca

Oca with spicy sauce Serves 6 Ingredients: 135g oca tubers 1/4 cup cold dry white wine 45g fresh shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 tbsp ﬂour (optional) 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp olive oil 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp sugar, or more to taste 2 cups chopped coriander leaves

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While the oca is cooking, shell and devein the shrimp, then dust lightly with ﬂour (optional). Heat the butter and olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the shrimp until lightly golden then remove from heat, lift out with a slotted spoon and combine with the steamed oca. For the dressing, coarsely puree the other ingredients and seasoning to taste. Once the oca and shrimp have cooled to room temperature, add the dressing, stir well and let it stand for ten minutes before serving.

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Face to face

A Tyre-less chef B Joe Barza is a globally recognised Lebanese chef, television personality and culinary consultant, known in the Middle East for co-hosting the regional version of the TV programme Top Chef. Born in Tyre, he graduated from the Hotel School of Arts in Lebanon at a time when the industry’s reputation was not high. Since then he has achieved award after award in international culinary competitions and is the very public face of the country’s revived cuisine. 32

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

arza was first influenced by traditional Lebanese cuisine as a child in his mother's kitchen. Growing up in a war torn country, food was always a matter of necessity rather than refinement and, during his time in a popular militia and later as a politician’s personal bodyguard, food was about survival. Finally, however, he faced down his parents’ and friends’ disapproval, enlisted in hotel school and, on graduation, emigrated to South Africa, seeking new work opportunities as a chef. His first job was at Johannesburg International Airport, where he started as a Chef de Partie, then quickly progressed in the ranks and within three years was Executive Sous Chef, responsible for serving up to 17,000 meals a day to travellers and managing a team of 110 kitchen personnel with three Sous Chefs. The Lebanese civil war officially ended in 1990 and three years later Barza decided to return home as head chef at the Century Park Hotel in Jounieh, in charge of a massive catering operation: banquets for up to 4,000 people, weekly outside catering for up to 1,000 people and in charge of 20 permanent chefs. After eight years, he was appointed head chef for the Chase chain of international restaurants, with nine outlets in Lebanon and others around the world.

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Face to face

After nine years, when the company changed ownership, Barza decided to end his head chef career and use the experience he acquired along the years as a culinary consultant. After three years, the Joe Barza Culinary Consultancy has been built around his personal experience and exposure to global culinary trends and it deals with all aspects of restaurant and catering operations, including concept formulation, menu elaboration, kitchen design, kitchen personnel recruiting, pre-opening strategy formulation, opening strategy formulation, postopening follow-up, cost control and staff training. Barza is also a consultant for the Salon Culinaire of Lebanon and has acted as a roving global ambassador for Lebanese cuisine and a multiple winner of culinary competitions such as the 2006 Tuna World Champion in Sardinia, honorary jury prize winner of of the 2003 European Sandwich Challenge and multiple Gold Medal winner at the Beirut Salon Culinaire. Passionate about Lebanese food which he believes deserves a place amongst the world’s top cuisines, he is also committed mentor to young chefs from Lebanon, determined that the professionalism he has seen demonstrated in the world’s top kitchens will be taken as standard in his home country. What was it like when you joined the industry? A chef in the Middle East never used to get any respect - it was a profession that people frowned on and many chefs were shy to tell people that was their job. That was part of the culture. When we did Top Chef, I remember one guy telling me that he just couldn’t bring himself to tell his prospective father-in-law what he did for a living. My view i that what one man can do, another can do as well. Chefs now have a better reputation. What caused the change? Well, I’m proud to say I was part of that change. When I left South Africa where I’d worked in a big kitchen with chefs from 14 nationalities, I asked myself why I had to change out of my whites when I wasn’t in the kitchen. What South Africa taught me is that a chef needs to be proud. In the mid1990s, in Lebanon, you needed to impose respect with your knowledge and your skills. Our food was good and well known, but chefs weren’t so we started entering international competitions and slowly our proﬁle raised up. Were chefs even looked down on in the villages or was this just in the cities? The best chefs can come from a village but parents wanteds their sons to have a real job, like a teacher. Chefs were seen almost as maids. All the big hotels used to import expat chefs because they saw Lebanese chefs as only able to cook Lebanese food, unable to do anything else although the good ones used to imitate. In South Africa, I was lucky to work with people who showed me that a chef was a human being like any other. A chef needs both to cook and think. Look, 30 years of civil war meant that we had only a very small number of good

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restaurants - people couldn’t affortd to travel like they do now for training and the country only had one culinary school. Did you like food as a child? Well, I didn’t start to cook till I was 24 but I remember, every Friday, my grandfather would bring a large basket if fresh fish down from Tyre. My mother used to cry from all the cleaning but the fish were delicious. Most days, however, we used to worry about what we would be able to find to eat the next day. Then, after the President was assasinated, I wanted to have a future, even if cooking was what women traditionally did. I was thirsty to learn and I got myself a Commis job in a little kitchen. I used to do double shifts - I was paid for the first but not the second, but I needed to learn as food had not been my passion before that. As one of the President’s bodyguards, didn’t you get well fed? No, we used to snatch burgers and such like. When I shifted from that life to the kitchen, it was a real shock. I remember sitting on an upturned tin of Milo and peeling 10kg of shrimp - I cried like my mother had cried! It was so hard, even getting to the place - public transport was terrible and I used to have to walk for 45 minutes as shells were whizzing overhead! But I had good will and, in six months, I had learned anough to realise that I was ready to move on. So I moved to South Africa to help a friend who ran a small pizza place. After

Lebanese chefs are now experimenting and taking pride in their work and we have won the respect of the people. Look, every country has a treasure with its ingredients and those should be treated well so the cuisine improves, adds value. I think fusion for its own sake is wrong - why should I try and do better than a French chef with foie gras or an Italian chef with pasta? We should take pride in our food and I’m happy to spread the word, such as the time I went to the Culinary Institute of America and showed what we can do to some of the world’s greatest chefs. How can we as chefs thanks our parents for what they have given us? Not just by being creative, but by working and creating with all our heart and all our passions. Why do you think people are now fascinated with chefs? I think because we are in direct contact with people. Our relationship can be quite intimate because we are giving them pleasure with food. Cooking is pleasure. I also have built up quite a following after 25 years in the kitchen and I’m lucky now to make maybe four or ﬁve trips a month, meeting people and spreading the word about our cuisine. I have the respect of the industry and I can pick up the phone and invite just about any chef in the world to come to Lebanon. How has Lebanese cuisine come to represent the wider Middle East, do you think? We’ve clever, commercial people of course! Also

“MY MOTHER STILL SAYS I DON’T KNOW HOW TO COOK. HAVE I COOKED IN HER KITCHEN? NO, I WOULDN’T DARE!” about six months, I prepared a special sauce topping and asked a regular to try it out who I was serving. So you weren’t cooking? No I was a waiter. He tasted it and asked me why I wasn’t working. I joined an airline catering firm and got three promotions within a year. I also travelled exploring cuisines: America, Brazil, Germany and so on. Then you returned to Lebanon? Yes, I wanted to help my parents and I knew that to succeed that I had to fashion a look for myself, a style. So the ear rings, the goatee‚Ä¶ I began to enter competitions and won the Tuna World Champion with a dish that reflected Lebanon: tuna marinated with shawarma spices. All had I had money for was the flight so I just took some spices with me! What drives you? I want to do well for myself, my friends, my country and for the Arab nation. I’ve been lucky and now I’m well-known and that makes me very proud.

there is a major diaspora - four million Lebanese in the country and 20 million outside. Each of them can make Lebanese food. And chefs now are not making just simple food - look at Philippe Masoud with his successful Illili in Manhattan with an investment of $6m. What’s at the heart of the cuisine? We took a lot from the Turks but adapted it over the centuries. The Syrians did too but they didn’t know how to spread their cuisine outside Syria. Our cuisine is based on spicing. There has been what I would call a blend of cuisines rather than a fusion no mix of chocolate and caviar for us! How do your family now view your success? My mother still says I don’t know how to cook. Have I cooked in her kitchen? No, I wouldn’t dare! But I was to continue to change attitudes so I’m always happy to mentor young chefs - they need to understand that if you don’t reach then you’ll never achieve. In the old days, recipes in Lebanese stayed the same and chefs guarded them - I give mine away everywhere.

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Face to face

Rice knefeh Serves 4 2 Ingredients Pudding 250g Egyptian or small grain rice 200 ml milk 100g sugar pinch of Arabic gum (miskeh), crushed 1 cup cornďŹ&#x201A;our 500g neutral breadcrumbs 250g butter 150g halloumi, grated 150g mozzarella, grated drop of rose water drop of orange blossom

Syrup 500 ml water 400g sugar 5g lemon zest 5g orange zest 1 tsp orange blossom 1 tsp rose water 3 Method 1 To make the pudding, mix the sugar and milk in a pan and bring to the boil. Add the rice and cook until it gets al dente, then add the corn ďŹ&#x201A;our, crushed miskeh, orange blossom and rose water. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

In a saucepan, add butter and mix the breadcrumbs until they turn golden brown. In an oven dish, arrange the breadcrumbs at the bottom, then pour the rice mixture on top as a second layer. Place the grated cheeses on top, then add another layer of rice mixture followed by a layer of breadcrumbs. Place dish on oven rack and bake for 15 to 20 minutes at 140C. To make the syrup, in a heavy bottomed pan, place all the ingredients and bring to boil on medium heat until a syrup is formed. Keep it on medium heat for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Serve a piece of the knefeh with the syrup on the side.

Basterma with pesto Serves 4 Ingredients 50g labneh 10g pesto 70g basterma, sliced 10 rocket leaves 40g tomato, sliced 5g bread, roasted Method 1 Prepare the basterma roll using labneh and pesto, rocket leaves and basterma slice. Prepare the sliced tomatoes and toasted bread. 2 Layer on the plate as follows: toasted bread, basterma roll and tomato slice. 3 Use ďŹ ve basterma rolls per plate.

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Breakage Control A well-conducted breakage training program delivers a significant reduction in overall breakage costs. Diverseyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breakage control programme is designed to :

Protect contents from unsafe employee handling Reducing the risk of breakage or possible injury.

The pie chart shows how warewashing costs break down and how your input helps your customer keep these costs at their optimum level. Be aware of, and merchandize, all you can do to increase your value to the customer in managing the total results, efficiency, productivity and costs of the operation.

A total cost approach Total warewashing costs based on Diversey surveys of 5 star hotel (costs will vary for other application areas/sectors)

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For every $1,000 in chemical spend the accountt spends: d Labour $8,500 Mechanical $3,600 Breakage $2000 Utilities: $1900 Diversey Gulf FZE P.O. Box 61485, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel +9714 8819470 Fax +9714 8819488 www.diversey.com

Face to face

Cooking from the heart In Dubai for Gulfood, Chef Violet Oon used her position as one of Singapore’s food ambassadors to demonstrate a selection of the country’s dishes, to an enthusiastic audience. In a break from her busy schedule, she found time to talk.

stablished as a trading port in 1819, Singapore attracted an inﬂux of migrants and merchants from China, the Malay Peninsula, the Indian sub-continent and the Middle East. Along with their cultures, languages and customs, these migrants brought with them their food traditions that have since shaped Singapore's culinary landscape. Today, Singapore has transformed into a food paradise with a diverse array of ﬂavours from around the region, with dishes highlighting

Chinese, Malay, Indian and Peranakan cuisines. From halal Malay food to South and North Indian pratas and biryani to Hainanese chicken rice to the Peranakans laksa, a Singaporean's everyday eating can easily reﬂect the countrys rich multicultural background. However, it is Peranakan or Nonya food that is unique, with ﬂavours that are a blend of Chinese, Malay and Indonesian. Aromatic herbs and spices such lemon grass, chillies, tamarind paste, shrimp paste and coconut milk are combined to create a

rich cuisine of braised dishes. From the Paranakan community, Chef Violet Oon is one of Singapore's leading food gurus and is known as much for her cooking as for her opinions on food. She started to learn the cuisine of her ancestors at the age of 16 when she realised that when her aunts passed on, there was no one to carry the torch to the next generation. Today, Oon is considered one of the leading authorities on Asian cuisine, specialising in an array of Singapore cuisines, from the nation's heritage of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures. Oon has guest cheffed at the James Beard House as well as over The Food Network of the USA. She has been a guest in the Andrew Zimmern hit TV series called Bizarre Foods and has appeared over Fox TV in the USA and was the subject of a one hour BBC programme on food as well as in TV programmes filmed for the USA, Britain, Japan and Australia. As Food Ambassador, Oon has been sent abroad by the Singapore Tourism Board for food promotions in the USA, Australia, Britain and Dubai and has cheffed at the Tiger Beer Singapore Chilli Crab Festival in both London and New York. She is also a leading cookbook author in Singapore, having written three books: Peranakan Cooking, Violet Oon Cooks and A Singapore Family Cookbook. She was also author and recipe tester of the Peninsula Hotel group of Hong Kong's first cookbook Naturally Peninsula. Despite all this success, however, it was ony last year that she opened her own restaurant in Singapore, Violet Oon’s Kitchen, after her daughter Tay SuLyn and son Tay Yiming helped her to make her traditional dishes more appealing to a younger generation. Now it’s a successful family business, with Su-Lyn designing a modern black-and-whitetiled bistro that borrows elements from an oldschool Singaporean chophouse without feeling antiquated and Yiming in charge of front of house You’re a chef now with your own restaurant. Why are you promoting packet meals here at Gulfood? You can get the very traditional taste in packets and they can be just as good as the real thing. For example, you may like the taste of laksa but don’t know how to cook it, so you can still get the same flavour in your sauce. No home kitchen can have its own chef but it can have flavouring options. Tell us about Singaporean cuisine. Well, the pure cuisine has gone to a large extent but some very authentic dishes exist. A lot of

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Face to face

it is on the cutting edge in the same way that Wolfgang Puck uses flavours from all over the world. Out cuisine is at its best as street cuisine as we’re a nation of immigrants - men came to work without wives and so needed to eat. They came from Malaysia, China and India and it was the food that was created by that mix which binds us together. What we find is that our mix of citizens - whether Hindu or Muslim, vegetarian or carnivores - create a cuisine or a table of food that satisfies everyone. We eat family style and include everyone. And Peranakan cuisine? It began when Chinese men came to Malucca and married into the local population. They began to feel a separate people and became inward looking under the British rule, though the community was very relaxed. In the 1050s to the 1970s there was a revival although, to be honest, there was no reason to be ‘British’ when they left Singapore. The Peranakan home was the very colourful and exotic Malay peninsula and they were very aware of their heritage and became focused on what made the community different - they treasured the food, for example, which basically is a juxtaposition of Malay and Chinese cuisines. I understand you worked with Zuma’s Raif Othman? Yes! His first job was with me and even then he eas very talented and dynamic. I’m very proud of what he’s achieved. We ate at Zuma last night and it was amazing. What is your cooking style? I’m a restaurant cook like many others, but I also like to travel so I can cook any style, Italian for example. In Singapore, that’s how we eat. We’re so used to mixing cuisines. Singapore is an entrepot, traditional but open to new tastes and ingredients. Personally, I used to be known for my shepherd’s pie! What I do in my restaurant is to deliver food

THE NONYA STORY When Claus Meyer, co-founder of ‘the world’s best restaurant’ Noma, opens a Peranakan restaurant in Denmark, you know something is up. The Peranakan kitchen, also known as the Nyonya kitchen, is a melting pot of different smells and tastes from a number of interesting Asian kitchens. Its origins lie in the 16th century when the Chinese Emperor sent merchant expeditions through the Malacca Strait. Subsequently, some of the merchants settled on the eastern shore of the strait and married Malay women. Then their descendants only married into families with the same heritage. This new culture came to be known as the Peranakan culture where men were referred to as Babas and women as Nonyas. For more than 500 years, the Peranakan kitchen has merged traditional Chinese produce and cooking methods with spices and other ingredients from Singapore, Indonesia, the Colonial empires and Malaysia. Typical ingredients of this kitchen include coconut milk, kafﬁr lime leaves, laksa leaves, tofu, galangal, chillies, turmeric and tamarind and the wide range of very speciﬁc, immensely aromatic spice and herb pastes known as sambals.

as it’s supposed to taste in a real way - no combi ovens, no shortcuts. I love cooking things properly traditionally, with no shortcuts. Why hasn’t Singapore food gained global recognition? I think because like many of our neighbours such as the Thais, we have no diaspora. There are simply not enough Singaporeans overseas for us to cook for and then the food extend to the larger communitues. There’s not enough of us to make

the cuisine bigger. However, I think it’s become a kind of secret amongst top chefs, maybe after Anthony Bourdain gave us publicity some seven or eight years ago. So we hope that word gets out more and more about how interesting our food is. What I find exciting is that when people taste real Singaporean food for the first time, they’re so surprised by the sense of ‘wow!’ in the food. That’s a validation of the flavours we use but it’s a new taste for so many people. The taste resonates in people. Tell us about your restaurant. 20 years ago it was well known, especially for my pies, but I closed it down a few years later. However, when I moved into a new career as a writer and food critic, I was still asked about it so clearly there was brand equity there. Finally, my son and daughter who work in fashion and finance convinced me to reopen which I did in July last year. The input of Yiming and Su-Lyn was very important because what they think is 'now'. Maybe I’m a prisoner of my own time but I wanted it to feel vintage but not old-fashioned. Now I’m lucky to be a food ambassador for Singapore and a consultant to the government. Apart from Singapore cuisine, what other foods do you enjoy? A lot of chefs want to be critical and need things to admire, but I’m not picky at all about food. I was educated at a convent school and nothing can be as bad as the food we had there! My view is that you shouldn’t make the enjoyment of food a matter of life and death. Literally, that’s what it is for so many poor people around the world. For me, food is about sentiment, about family, about memories. It’s a very precious thing. As a child, was food important to you? My mother couldn’t cook at all - she was a career woman and had no interest. So I had to transform

Chilli crab Serves 2 Ingredients Sauce 1 cup water 5 tbsp tomato ketchup 1/3 tbsp sugar, or according to taste 1/2 tsp cornﬂour 1 tsp pounded brown preserved soya beans or dark miso (optional) 1/2 tsp salt Crab 8 cloves of garlic 8 fresh red chillies 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large crab, prepared for cooking 1 egg 2 spring onions, cut into ﬁnger lengths

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1 tsp freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice 1 small bunch coriander leaves (cilantro), cut into 2cm long pieces Method 1 Whisk all ingredients for the sauce together and set aside. 2 Pound or grind garlic and chillies to a rough paste. Heat oil in a wok over high heat. Add garlic and chilli paste and fry till fragrant. Add crab and stir fry until the shells turn slightly red. Add sauce. Stir well, cover the wok and simmer till the shells turn bright red, indicating that the crab is cooked. Break egg into the sauce and mix well. Simmer for another ten seconds. Turn off the heat and stir in spring onions and lime or lemon juice. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Face to face

Coconut laksa Serves 4-6

1cm length turmeric peeled 15 dried red chillies, with seeds removed and soaked in hot water 3 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tsp dried shrimp paste 100g shallots, peeled

Ingredients 300g thick rice vermicelli 1 handful bean sprouts with roots removed, lightly blanched and drained 150g prawns, steamed and peeled 80g cucumber, cut into thin slices 2 hard boiled eggs 1 tsp white pepper powder 1/2 tbsp coriander powder 30g dried prawns 2-3 cups of water 3 cups chilled coconut milk 1/2 tsp salt 4-6 tbsp vegetable oil

Method 1 Grind ingredients with pepper till ﬁne. Heat oil over the high heat, add ground ingredients and dried prawns. Fry for eight minutes till fragrant then add pepper, coriander, water and half of the coconut milk, bring to boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add remaining coconut milk and salt and bring to boil again, stirring constantly. 2 - Pour boiling water on the vermicelli, mix well and drain. 2 Put the vermicelli into bowls and pour in the gravy. Add the prawns, cucumber and eggs to serve. Add extra chilli to taste.

To grind for paste 50g galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass 3 candlenuts

Satay skewers Serves 4 Ingredients Meat 1kg chicken breast/thigh or lamb ﬁllets 1 tbsp coriander seeds or powder 1 tsp cumin seeds or powder 1/2 tsp fennel seeds or powder 5 candlenuts or macadamia nuts (optional) 10 shallots or 1 large red or brown onion 2 cloves garlic 1 stalk lemongrass, use only the root 1 cm slice galangal, or blue ginger 1 cm slice fresh ginger root 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp turmeric powder 50g brown or palm sugar 2 tsp tamarind pulp 1/2 cup water Satay sauce 40g to 60g tamarind pulp 2 cups water 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 cup toasted skinless peanuts, ﬁnely ground 1 stalk lemongrass 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 tsp salt Spice mixture for satay sauce 3 candlenuts or macadamia nuts, washed and drained 15 dried red chillies, soaked in hot water till softened 3 cloves garlic 30g shallots or large red onions

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

1 tsp shrimp paste (optional) Method 1 For the satay sauce, mix tamarind pulp with water and strain, discard pulp. Pound or grind spice mixture until ﬁne. Fry spice mixture in hot oil till fragrant. Add tamarind liquid and remaining ingredients. Boil for 15 minutes, stirring well. Cool for 30 minutes before serving. 2 Dry fry coriander seeds, cumin seeds and fennel seeds till fragrant and grind till ﬁne. Pound or grind candlenuts, shallots, garlic, lemongrass

and ginger till ﬁne. Mix the tamarind pulp with quarter cup of water, then knead and sieve to remove seeds. Mix the sugar with quarter cup of water and dissolve over low heat. Mix the shallot mixture with the ground seeds, turmeric powder, tamarind water, sugar syrup and salt. Marinade meat in this mixture for six hours. Then, to grill, skewer three pieces of meat on each skewer, brush with oil and BBQ till golden brown on both sides. Serve with satay sauce, cucumbers and sliced raw onions.

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Face to face

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Face to face

More than just quinoa With Peruvian cuisine topped at the key trend of 2013, this year’s Gulfood also saw a Peruvian food festival with celebrity Chef Christian Bravo in town to cook up a storm.

rom radio DJ and TV presenter to bartender and chef, Christian Bravo’s rise to international fame has been unconvential, not least because he has never worked under another chef. He’s now the owner and Executive Chef of two restaurants and four clubs clubs in Lima, beginning also to franchise out his concepts before taking them international. For the past decade, he has represented Peru and its cuisine in competitions, festivals and more. He’s currently an honorary ambassador and even ran with the Olympic torch lasr year. A hard man to keep up with! Why do you think Peruvian cuisine is this year’s top choice for chefs? I think globalisation is helping to exchange cultures more and more. It’s not all negative. A decade or more ago, in Peru we couldn’t imagine the treasures we had to share in terms of produce. How has Peruvian cuisine developed? What makes it different? Peru has always been a country where people cooked, where food was central to the culture. However, it was only after the revolution that it really developed. For me, I was fascinated by food from the age of five and, as I grew up, I started to cook for friends. My first career choices though were being a DJ and then a graphic designer. Then I chose the kitchen. My father went crazy - How could I think of cooking for a living? Especially as, at the time, there wasn’t even a cooking school in Peru, only one for hospitality. But it was my passion and I started to learn from scratch, even though my friends also thought I was mad! Who would have believed that Peruvian cuisine would get the recognition it now enjoys? However, I was so proud when I was wearing my chef’s jacket and really enjoyed finding great food in every corner of the country, in every street. Was being a chef something respected when you started your career? No, as a career it wasn’t seen as it is now. The real difference is that now Peru has more culinary

Latino style schools than any other country in South America. The problem we face, like many other countries, is that young chefs can see the profession as leading them to become a rockstar - being a chef is about passion, not on such a false promise. Can you describe Peruvian cuisine for people who don’t know it? It’s a natural fusion cuisine. We have inﬂuences

from the Incas, the Spanish, the Arabs. People often confuse it with Chilean cuisine but they had no contact with the Incas - that’s the difference. When various people came to Peru, they brought certain ingredients with them, such as the beans that slaves brought. Another major inﬂuence happened when the slavery system was broken and estates attracted workers from China, mainly Cantonese - part of their pay was in rice, so that

“HOW COULD I THINK OF COOKING FOR A LIVING? ESPECIALLY AS, AT THE TIME, THERE WASN’T EVEN A COOKING SCHOOL IN PERU, ONLY ONE FOR HOSPITALITY. BUT IT WAS MY PASSION.” www.cpidubai.com

April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Face to face

became a staple part of our culinary picture. Another result of that is that any small restaurant will have a wok and soy sauce! In Peru, everyone can find something familiar in the cuisine. So what has happened recently? Chefs worldwide have suddenly woken up to the fact that we have a lot of unusual products. Over the last few years, chefs such as Adrià have come to Peru to discover for themselves what we have to offer. At the same time there’s been a social revolution in the way that our cuisine has been viewed by Peruvians - now there is a great deal of pride in our culinary heritage and achievements. You know, food brings people together as a common thread and I think it’s great now that chefs worldwide are talking about our cuisine. Before opening your own restaurant, who did you work for? Actually, I was a teacher of other chefs and I’ve never worked for anyone in the kitchen! All that time I was planning my own restaurant, saving money until I felt I had learned enough. Of course, with no experience it’s hard to manage both the food side and the whole restaurant thing. However, I’m lucky and I learned quickly from my own mistakes. I also spent some time in Spain on a kind of culinary voyage of discovery. I think that taught me which techniques I could use to surprise diners - I tend to be more an inventive chef than one who plans. I think if you were to sum up my style it would be that I play flavours against our traditional cuisine. And, of course, there’s still the all-important music in my restaurant! What key changes do you see in the restaurant scene in Peru recently? Peruvians are what you might call comfortable gourmets and one big change recently has been in the plating of dishes in order to enhance the great produce and the amazing dishes our chefs produce. I think we’ve been through a process of refining the cuisine - for example, we’re used to the spring roll but now chefs are taking it to the next level.

Chef at work!

And the future? I’ve so pleased that people are now interested in our food, in Peruvian cuisine. I travel a lot as an ambassador for our cuisine and there’s so much interest in what we have to offer. We’ve come a long way, but our chefs still have lots of ideas and are always learning what’s possible.

PERU IN DUBAI For the cuisine hailed by many as the breakthrough cuisine of 2013, Dubai has been behind the curve in delivering Peruvian dishes. However, by Q2, we should see authentic Peruvian restaurants both in Madinat Jumeirah and the Shangri-La. Delicacy of touch

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Travel

Starry, starry night The long running series of gala events for charity - Stars, Food & Art - run by Clafoutis in conjunction with Sofitel broke new ground last month, with its first event in the UK at the stunning Sofitel St James. Four talented chefs participated: Raymond Blanc, Christophe Muller, Michael Moore and Guy Krenzer.

y now, event founder Lise Trimmer has Stars, Food and Art to pitch perfection. The theme is always the same as each specially invited chef prepares one dish for the ﬁne-dining charity event which begins with a Champagne reception. Menus are only revealed on the evening itself. Originating in Amsterdam, the SF&A concept has worked equally well in Vienna, Munich, Lyon, Marseille and Dubai, with Casablanca to follow next. Every time, the different Soﬁtel property

allows a different emphasis and change of pace, with some events more formal than others. What does not differ is the excitement of chefs working together for the ﬁrst time against ridiculous odds to deliver a meal that spotlights their own styles but also comes together as a gastronomic whole. Strategically placed screens in the restaurant broadcast live video from a webcam in the kitchen, offering a behind the scenes view and chefs emerge to chat and and engage with diners through the course of the

Blanc's dish is plated

Cheese awaits!

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

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Travel

Concentration in the kitchen

Raymond Blanc's Conﬁt of salmon

THE CHEFS Raymond Blanc is Chef Patron of two Michelin star restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. The self-taught French chef has appeared on a number of television shows and was awarded an OBE in recognition of promoting culinary excellence and for raising awareness of the importance of healthy food. Christophe Muller is Executive Chef at three Michelin star L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, the French restaurant founded by legendary chef Paul Bocuse. French born Muller is known for his precision, speed and innovative methods and has worked at the temple of classical French cooking since 1994. English born Michael Moore is one of Australia's most respected chefs. Renowned across three continents the popular television chef, food consultant and author has a passion for nutrition and food science, making high-end food accessible to both the cook at home and to the discerning restaurant patron. Michael is currently the chef/owner of Sydney O Bar and Dining, on top of the Australia Square building. Guy Krenzer is Executive Chef and Creative Director at Lenôtre. At 26, Krenzer had already been awarded a medal at the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the Olympics of pastry making, held every four years in Sorbonne. Chef, artist and artisan, Krenzer leads a team of 500 and yet is known for his calm and serenity, perhaps aided through his love of Shiatsu. Tables laid and ready

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April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Travel

evening, before happily meeting them in the traditional after party in the hotel bar. The gourmet festival also combines art - this time two solo singers enthused diners with their energy and talent. The event was held in aid of The Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia - Friends in the UK. The Royal Flying Doctor Service offers primary health care and 24-hour emergency service to those who live, work and travel throughout Australia, especially those in remote and rural communities. The Friends in the UK work to raise funds for aircraft replacement. Starting the meal was a simple and refreshing warm conﬁt of salmon from Raymond Blanc, which stressed both his commitment to his mother’s simple cooking and his respect for ingredients. General agreement was that this was the perfect start to the meal. It was followed by Christophe Muller’s poached lobster glazed with Pouilly Fuisse on a celeriac puree - light, delicate and subtly infused with ginger. Next, a change of pace from Michael Moore, a chef well known for his commitment to healthy eating after a serious personal cholesterol scare - playing with black colours, he delivered Aberdeen Angus on quinoa ﬂavoured with chia and treacle. A chance to regain one’s appetite over cheese and then Guy Krenzer’s accomplished Dulce le leche with a citrus granita. Throughout the meal, the dishes were matched with specially selected wines from Mouton Rothschild and, for a bitterly cold March evening in London, the whole menu spoke of Spring and lightness of touch. A triumph! Chefs plating up

Michael Moore's Black dish

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013

Chefs and host

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Travel

Guy Krezner's Dulce de leche

THE DISHES Cocktail reception Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2004 Raymond Blanc Conﬁt of salmon, cucumber and wasabi Reserve Moutin Cadet Graves Blanc 2011 Christophe Muller Poached lobster, Pouilly Fuissé glazing, celeria puree scented with ginger Aile d’Argent 3008, Vin Blanc de Chateau Mouton Rothschild Michael Moore Black dish - Angus, quinoa, chio, salt, garlic, treacle, seeds and shoots Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1999 Cheese from La Cave a Fromage Reserve Mouton Cadet Sauternes 2010 Guy Krezner Dulce de leche, citrus granita and sabaillon Remy Marttin Couer de Cognac Christophe Muller's Poached lobster

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April 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

The last word

After a quarter of a century... Chefs everywhere are excited at the launch of a new and improved model, the Pacojet 2. This is the ﬁrst new model since the iconic food preparation machine was introduced and coincides with the company's 25th anniversary year.

he Pacojet 2 boasts a host of new and improved features, many of which have been introduced at the request of - and with help from - distinguished chefs around the world. Fundamental to the new model is a powerful

new Swiss-made brushless motor with a five-year warranty, that is much more efficient and quieter than its predecessor. Software has also been upgraded to detect and prevent overfilling beakers - a common operator error that can cause blade damage. The machine senses this and recovers

overﬁlled beaker contents with no need to thaw. There is also an optional air pressure mode with automatic depressurisation. This permits pressure release during the processing cycle. In addition, the Pacojet 2 offers more precise decimal portion control. This is a function widely requested and particularly important for expensive ingredients. The new machine is equipped with a new colour graphic display with intuitive icons and an automatic cleaning cycle with progress visually monitored on the display panel. It also ships with a complimentary Pacojet recipe book with recipes garnered from top chefs in 40 different countries, plus hints and tips on using the Pacojet from chefs nominated as 'Pacojet Ambassadors' for their country. One such Ambassador is Tom Kerridge of the Hand & Flowers in Marlow, UK - the only 2-star Michelin pub in the world. Tom, who has been trialling the new machine, comments: "We have found the Pacojet 2 to be highly efﬁcient and the manufacturer has clearly taken on board suggestions for improvement. The new engine is more powerful, quicker and quieter. In fact, since we pacotise about 40 times a day, in the kitchen there now pervades an air of calmness and control."

Pacotise to perfection

The new model

“IN FACT, SINCE WE PACOTISE ABOUT 40 TIMES A DAY, IN THE KITCHEN THERE NOW PERVADES AN AIR OF CALMNESS AND CONTROL!" - Chef Tom Kerridge

The Pro Chef Middle East / April 2013