The Pro Chef - Edition 43 by The Pro Chef Middle East

PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA

AUTUMN 2018

BOOSTING BUSINESS // FACE TO FACE WITH CHEFS // TRENDING INGREDIENTS // REAL TALK

Exceptional tea starts with the leaf. And ends with the perfect serve.

To experience exceptional tea, visit UFS.com/tea

EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR: Michael Jabri-Pickett mjp@cpimediagroup.com EDITOR: Sophie Voelzing sophie.voelzing@cpimediagroup.com ONLINE EDITOR: Glesni Holland glesni.holland@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER: Carol Owen SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com MARKETING Isabelle Mills marketing@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)

EDITOR'S NOTE

Welcome It’s all about celebrating culinary achievement this month at The Pro Chef Middle East as we enter awards season. Now in its sixth year, The Pro Chef Middle East Awards proudly recognise the biggest accomplishments and triumphs across the Middle East's food sector by awarding the region’s leading chefs. The awards are designed to celebrate the consistent hard work contributed by chefs across the UAE on a daily basis, and whether you’re a nominee or a winner, we hope that the recognition encourages you and your teams to continue the fantastic work and effort you put it every day. Inside the Autumn issue, we hear from chefs at the forefront of some of this season’s most exciting openings, including chef Izu Ani who’s opening Greek/Mediterranean restaurant GAIA in DIFC, plus chef Lara Said, who recently launched Mexican street food restaurant La Carnita at InterContinental Dubai Marina. We discuss how Dubai’s F&B landscape continues to hold its own on the global scene with co-founder of GRIF Society, Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, and have a very real conversation about the grappling demons of addiction and mental health that more and more chefs are speaking up about. Talking progression and trends in the Indian kitchen, we speak to Tresind’s chef Himanshu Saini, who continues to pave the way locally for the evolution of Indian cuisine, plus Address Boulevard’s executive pastry chef Abel Vieilleville tells of the return to tradition when it comes to pastry, the rise of more nutritious and less artificial cakes, and the influence of Instagram on dessert demands. All that, plus the latest food news, inspirational pieces with industry-leading professionals, dates for your culinary diary and much more. I hope you enjoy the read.

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© Copyright 2018 CPI Media Group FZ LLC. All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein. www.cpimediagroup.com

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CONTENTS

36 UP FRONT 4 NEWS BITES

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. From upcoming food events, to ingredient innovation, we cover it all.

15 MOVERS & SHAKERS

We follow the movements of chefs accross restaurant and hotel kitchens.

TRENDING 16 OYSTERS

We hear from the guys down at Dibba Bay Oyster Farm to learn more of the locally-grown ingredient.

18 TOMATOLICIOUS

24 2

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

These cherry tomatoes are grown in Al Ain and can be picked off the vine and delivered to your kitchen in the very same day.

THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST

CHEFS 24 CHEF IZU ANI

We go one-to-one with chef Izu Ani to hear all about his soon-to-open restaurant, GAIA in DIFC.

28 CHEF DHARHAM RANA

Miss Lily's head chef Dharham talks trends in Jamaican cooking and shares his secrets to perfectly jerking meat.

32 CHEF LARA SAID

La Carnita DXB's chef Lara takes us behind the scenes at the newly opened restaurant at InterContinental Dubai Marina.

FEATURES 36 CURRENT INDUSTRY TRENDS

Is the UAE ahead when it comes to global food trends?

41 CLOSED FOR BUSINESS

Why are so many restaurants closing in Dubai? We talk to Glee Hospitality Solutions to find out more.

45 GAME OF STOVES

Anonymous industry insider, Food Sheikh lends insight on some very real issues faced for those working in the F&B sector.

50 THE KITCHEN BUSINESS

Why is professional training so important to waste management in the kitchen?

28 ON THE PASS 54 CHEF'S SPECIAL

We speak to some of Dubai's top chefs to learn of their favourite dishes on menus at their restaurants.

61 THE EVOLUTION OF TRESIND

Paving the way for evolution in Indian cusine, we speak to chef Himanshu of Tresind and Carnival by Tresind.

66 PASSION FOR PASTRY

Chef Abel of Address Boulevard shares insight on trends in the pastry sector.

LEISURE 70 EVENT COVERAGE

Coverage from the inaugural Richemont Masterbaker Pastry & Baking Championship

75 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Three food shows you don't want to miss!

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

News bites UP FRONT /

Gregoire Berger named #23 best chef in the world At the Best Chef Awards 2018 held in Milan, Italy recently, Grégoire Berger took home the prestigious ‘Fol-LOVERS’ award, which is bestowed on the most appreciated and voted for chef in the world by the public and media. Berger also took the title of 3rd Best French Chef and 23rd Best Chef in the World, pipping the likes of Pierre Gagnaire (#25), Heinz Beck (#52), Heston Blumenthal (#84) and Colin Clague (#250) to the spot. The entries for The Best Chef Awards are selected and judged by a panel of global bloggers, journalists, photographers, other distinguished chefs, and 30% of the final selection is driven by the awards vast social media following.

Meet the Season 6 Chef’s Table line-up Premiering in 2019, the much-loved Chef’s Table series on Netflix will feature a whole new lineup of chefs. First we meet Mashama Bailey, the chef of the Grey in Savannah, Georgia. Next, James Beard award-winning chef Sean Brock of Husk, McCrady’s Tavern and Minero in Charleston, South Carolina, and then Asma Khan, chef-owner of Darjeeling Express, an acclaimed Indian restaurant in London that grew out of a popular supper club. Lastly, world-renowned butcher Dario Cecchini who operates a meat shop and a collection of restaurants, including a steakhouse and a burger shop, in Panzano, Italy. We’ll keep you posted on the release date!

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Leading Middle East pastry chefs, Antoine Chassonnery from Fauchon and Vincent Cockenpot from Bateel have had their recipes using the finest French cream commissioned by the French Dairy Board (CNIEL Centre National Interprofessionel de l’Economie Laitière). They will now appear in the exclusive “La Crème de la Crème” dessert recipe book featuring 11 of the most talented pastry chefs in the Middle East and Asia. All recipes had to show their skills of working with cream, include one chocolate from the Valrhona range as well as one local ingredient. Each pastry had to be creative, gourmet and maintain the cream and chocolate colour palette. Based in Dubai, Cockenpot is the executive pastry chef of Bateel, responsible for the creation, production and setting up of pastries in all Dubai cafes and across all sales outlets in the Middle East. His dessert, Piemont in the Sky, combines hazelnut, gianduja, black lemon marmalade and cream. “The combination of chocolate and cream works incredibly well. The bitter taste of the chocolate paired with the lightness of the cream creates the perfect combination. This is only possible however thanks to the quality of the ingredients; French cream is renowned around the world as being the very best, similarly to the cocoa beans from Ecuador, Haiti, Peru or Madagascar – combining the two creates a taste sensation,” said Cockenpot. Originally from Lyon, France, Chassonnery, has plied his trade around the world in restaurants in Paris, Bora Bora, Egypt. Chassonnery is now based in Dubai, where he works as Executive Pasty Chef for Fauchon Middle East. Chassonnery said: “It is an incredible honour to be part of this book. The vision of all chefs involved has resulted in a mouth-watering assortment of eleven unique pastries combining the finest French cream and chocolate. These ingredients are the perfect complement thanks to their taste, texture and malleability, allowing these amazing pastries to be created.” For further information or to receive a copy of the recipes please contact sopexa.com/en/agence/me.

Text SOPHIE MCCARRICK | Photographs SUPPLIED & SHUTTERSTOCK

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond

Middle East chefs showcase pastry skills on the global stage

Colin Clague creates highest fine-dining restaurant in Arabia with Bentley Bentley Motors has created the UAE’s highest fine-dining restaurant on the summit of the Emirates’ tallest mountain, Jebel Jais, in Ras Al Khaimah with chef Colin Clague of Ruya. The ‘Peak of Luxury’ opened for just seven days in October 2018 and served 150 diners a specially designed menu of classic British dishes created by chef Colin. The restaurant was constructed to celebrate the Middle East launch of the Bentley Bentayga V8 and Continental GT, and to demonstrate the sheer levels of bespoke luxury Bentley delivers through truly extraordinary experiences. Located on the summit of Jebel Jais, 1,934 metres above sea level, Bentley’s luxury dining room was styled in keeping with a traditional Arabic tent. Stepping inside the tent, guests were transported to a five-star luxury restaurant with hand-picked contemporary furniture, sumptuous materials and spectacular panoramic views across the mountain top.

Solutions Leisure to take homegrown concepts global F&B group Solutions Leisure will take homegrown Dubai brands Lock, Stock & Barrel and Asia Asia into Eastern Europe in Q1 of 2019. In partnership with European engineering tycoon, Polimeks, Founders Paul Evans and Freek Teusink have signed three international licensing agreements across Russian cities Moscow and Kazan. The Solutions Leisure portfolio comprises of seven brands and eight venues across the Dubai emirate, including brands such as STK, Karma Kafé, Q43 and Inner City Zoo. Paul Evans, co-Founder and Managing Director of Solutions Leisure said, “international expansion has always been the ultimate goal for the group, and after seven years, we believe we have met our perfect, likeminded match set to take the much-loved brands onto global shores. The extraordinary development opportunities offered by the Polimeks group are more epic than we could have imagined, and my business partners and I are extremely excited to be aligned with such a dynamic and driven group. Following our recent site visit and negotiations, we couldn’t have chosen a better partner and look forward to the beginning of the next chapter.” Solutions Leisure in partnership with Polimeks plan to expand the Lock, Stock and Barrel brand to Kazan and Moscow locations, with Asia Asia set to join the party bar in Kazan. The first opening is proposed to be in Q1 of 2019, with additional international license agreements already under discussion and underway.

TOP PICKS

TWO NEW COOKBOOKS TO READ

THE NOMA GUIDE TO FERMENTATION BY RENÉ REDZEPI AND DAVID ZILBER – OCTOBER 2018

At Noma—four times named the world’s best restaurant—every dish includes some form of fermentation, whether it’s a bright hit of vinegar, a deeply savory miso, an electrifying drop of garum, or the sweet intensity of black garlic. Fermentation is one of the foundations behind Noma’s extraordinary flavour profiles. Now René Redzepi, chef and co-owner of Noma, and David Zilber, the chef who runs the restaurant’s acclaimed fermentation lab, share never-before-revealed techniques to creating Noma’s extensive pantry of ferments. And they do so with a book conceived specifically to share their knowledge and techniques with home cooks. With more than 500 step-by-step photographs and illustrations, and with every recipe approachably written and meticulously tested, The Noma Guide to Fermentation takes readers far beyond the typical kimchi and sauerkraut to include koji, kombuchas, shoyus, misos, lacto-ferments, vinegars, garums, and black fruits and vegetables. And— perhaps even more important—it shows how to use these game-changing pantry ingredients in more than 100 original recipes. To purchase, visit amazon.com. An exhibition focused on our core interests, surrounding the region’s longest running event for chefs will take us to a new level. I am looking forward to our regular classes and to the new elements of ExpoCulinaire 2019”. ExpoCuliniare 2019 is expected to attract more than 200 companies for its first edition, with an anticipated attendance of 5,000 trade visitors.

IN MY BLOOD

BY BO BECH – SEPTEMBER 2018

Scandinavian chef Bo Bech from Geist restaurant in Copenhagen has released a brand new cookbook, which he not only wrote, edited and published, but also did the photography for – talk about creativity! Titled ‘In my Blood’ the book contains 100 recipes as well as the chef’s soul bearing story behind Geist, its people, the food and philosophy, which was seven years in the making. Split into five pillars, recipe come under the following categories; The Rage, The Tribute, The Introduction, The Reunion and The Journey anchoring where his ideas and culinary inventions originated. Alongside the recipes, there's also plenty more insight into a day in the life at the restaurant plus recipes for ten of the most popular cocktails from the restaurant.

To purchase, visit chefbobech.com.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

Westholme beef now available through Classic Fine Foods Westholme has announced its entry into the Middle Eastern market, via exclusive distribution with Classic Fine Foods. Westholme is a preferred cut for top chefs around the world, known for its rich, even marbling and expressive depth of flavour. Born wild and hand selected to provide an authentic flavour profile that is quintessentially Australian, Westholme is recognisable for its signature juicy tenderness that offers a timeless experience. Raised with the freedom to graze on natural land for as far as the eye can see, the Westholme herd are finished on a proprietary blend of grains. The stewards of Westholme have spent the better half of the past 200 years perfecting their craft, consistently creating a premium product but always doing things the best way, never just the easy way. In the shadow of Australia’s Great Dividing Range you’ll find some of the finest country in the world, this is where Westholme comes from. Dedicated families who steward the land, and a collective obsession with crafting the finest beef in the world.

NOBU VISITS WATERFRONT MARKET IN DEIRA One of the world's most celebrated celebrity chefs and restauranteurs, Noboyuki 'Nobu' Matsuhisa, more popularly known as 'Chef Nobu,' recently paid a surprise visit to The Waterfront Market in Deira. Chef Nobu commented, “I am very impressed with the diversity of fresh fish as well as fruit and vegetables on offer at the Waterfront Market. Having opened Nobu Dubai at Atlantis, The Palm 10 years ago, I can see such a notable improvement on the range of fresh seasonal produce now available in Dubai. There are so many items here that you just couldn’t find ten years ago.”

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

The Westholme herd contains some of the most highly credentialed Wagyu cattle to ever leave Japan. Over two decades Westholme have built on these strong foundation bloodlines to produce outstanding product. For more information, visit westholme.com.au or classicfinefoods.com.

Lipton’s Fresh Brewed Ice Tea offers up to 98% profit margin

Unilever Food Solutions ‘UFS’ have signed a partnership deal with Dubaibased, British owned, F&B specialists Ymakan. The aim of the partnership is to bring Lipton’s Fresh Brewed Iced Tea to the UAE food service industry under the UFS banner of The Tea Company. Ymakan owners, Sarah Motwali – CEO and Vanessa Linney, managing partner have taken on the project to give F&B companies within the hospitality industry a unique, healthy and profitable option to offer their customers. “We believe there is a gap in the beverage

market in this part of the world, for a thirst quenching, healthy, sustainable alternative to everyday soft drinks” says Sarah Motwali, CEO, Ymakan. “We have carefully chosen the best, to help contribute to the health and wellbeing of the consumer in the UAE, at the same time offering cost and wastage conscious F&B companies in the UAE, a fastmoving beverage that offers up to a 98% profit margin and long shelf life,” she added. Lipton’s Fresh Brewed Iced Tea is made from real tea leaves and is un-sweetened, offering recipes to suit International, Middle Eastern, Asian and Indian palettes. It has a fun, fast and simple brewing process allowing busy outlets to offer a tasty, healthy alternative to sugary soft drinks. For more information or to arrange a free demo and sampling, contact Sarah on sarahmotwali@ymakan.com or +971 50 343 9649, or Julie on juliecaulton@ ymakan.com or +971 50 358 5167. Visit ymakan.com.

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UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

INTRODUCING:

NEWBY’S SILKEN PYRAMID

Singapore to host the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards in 2019 The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 Awards and events programme, sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, will take place in Singapore. The World’s 50 Best Bars awards in 2021 will also be held in Singapore as part of a 3-year partnership with Singapore Tourism Board.

PureMalt launches exports to the Middle East Global leading manufacturer of maltbased ingredients is now exporting to the UAE and wider Middle East. Scottish-based company PureMalt Ltd, which has a heritage that traces back over 800 years, recently signed an exclusive partnership with Dubai-based specialist F&B company Ymakan, that will allow Middle Eastern manufacturers and chefs to create products and recipes using natural malt extract, providing colour, flavour and texture in either powder or liquid form and that’s gluten free. PureMalt’s range of allnatural malt extract can be used across many market segments such as pastry & baking, soft drinks & non-alcoholic beverages, soups, sauces & condiments, prepared meals, meat & meat free products, nutritional supplements and animal care. Positive samplings were completed with two of the world’s largest F&B manufacturers in the UAE earlier this year, along with other UAE based companies wishing to replace the nasties in their products with natural ingredients or simply wanting to create a range of healthier products. Ymakan feel that PureMalt have the perfect solution to help F&B manufactures and chefs contribute to the fight against diabetes and obesity here in the UAE and wider Middle East. For more information, please contact the Ymakan team on sarahmotwali@ymakan.com or juliecaulton@ymakan.com. Visit ymakan.com and puremalt.com.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Newby’s silken pyramid is a bespoke range of premium loose-leaf teas packed in pyramid shapes, to treat its consumer to a luxurious experience. The finest, freshest cup of tea awaits inside each of Newby’s silken pyramids. Newby’s experts only bid on the best 5% of teas, picked in the spring and summer, at tea auctions around the world. Only the very finest teas are transported to Newby’s state-of the- art Indian factory for preservation and packing by experts. Each variety needs caring for in a different way so its unique personality can be preserved. One delicious serving of loose-leaf tea is placed in each of the generously sized silken pyramids. When water is added, the leaves have plenty of room to expand and radiate every drop of taste into your cup. Tea is a fragile product. Its enemies are light, heat, contamination and moisture. By securing each pyramid in a specially designed sachet, your tea will taste just as fresh as when it left our factory. Meticulously packed using tech-materials and transported carefully to tea lovers all over the world, Newby teas are renowned for uncompromising flavour that mirrors the character of their source. This dedication to quality has earned the company numerous awards for taste to packaging design. Today Newby is the most awarded international tea brand with over 54 accolades from Global tea championship for ultimate quality of our teas. By carefully and dedicatedly sourcing, blending, preserving and serving the world’s finest teas, Newby guarantees that its products have integrity. Not only do they set the bar for tea’s luxury standard, they do preserve the art and culture of appreciating the well-loved drink. For more information, visit newbyteas.ae.

Premium Coffee Experience Constant Quality over Time Integrated Bidirectional Wi-Fi system

Designed from LaCimbali Italian Coffee Competence and know-how in Traditional Machines, the new born LaCimbali S20 widens the range of our super-automatic machines. The incorporated soluble hot chocolate system allows for a wide and varied range of beverages, making the new LaCimbali S20 the perfect solution for locations with a production of about 200 cups a day. Always with the guarantee of the highest quality in the cup.

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UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

Callebaut launches ruby chocolate in UAE Eighty years after the launch of white chocolate as the third type after dark and milk, Callebaut, the Finest Belgian Chocolate, reveals the fourth type in chocolate - ‘ruby’. Ruby RB1 was introduced in the Middle East market at an exclusive launch event at the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah on October 16th, 2018 as a part of the global series launch. Ruby chocolate was discovered more than a decade ago. The invention of Ruby chocolate is the work of R&D centers of Barry Callebaut, based in France and Belgium - part of a global network of 28 R&D centers, the Jacobs University in Germany, and over 175 years of expertise in sourcing and manufacturing. The researchers found out that ruby chocolate was linked to precursors which are present in what we call the “ruby” cocoa bean. Identifying those beans, which hold plenty of these precursors, and finding the best way to process them during the chocolate-making process has taken many years of research. RB1 owes its colour and specific taste solely to the expert selection and meticulous processing of the ruby beans – no fruit flavouring or colorants are added to the chocolate. For more information, visit callebaut.com.

APPETITE FOR ORGANIC FOODS IN UAE HAS INCREASED BY ALMOST 40% The demand for organic foods in the UAE is on an upward trajectory, with 38% of consumers purchasing more organic produce in the last 12 months compared to the previous year, according to a new survey conducted by YouGov. Commissioned by Arla Foods, the world’s largest manufacturer of organic dairy products, the research also revealed that 61% of UAE consumers purchase organic foods more than once a month. Survey participants cited that the leading driver of this trend is health reasons (59%) with 57% of consumers believing organic food to be healthy, more natural (50%) and safer for consumption (47%) when compared to non-organic food due to the belief that production methods are free from pesticides (53%), added hormones (43%) and antibiotics (20%). Interestingly, in addition to perceiving organic to be healthier, the findings

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

show that 45% of UAE consumers also believe it to taste better. Ethical food choice motives also have a strong influence on consumers' attitudes with 21% of respondents saying that the main reason they buy organic is concern for the environment and 12.5% citing animal welfare. Fruit and vegetables is the dominant organic category, making up 69% of the market, followed by eggs (49%), dairy (40%), fish (36%) poultry (33%), red meat (29%) and cereals and bakery (30%). Of the 17% of consumers that never purchase organic, price is the biggest barrier cited by almost half (49%) of respondents while 46% of consumers are simply not in the habit of purchasing organic. This may be attributed to the fact that one in four (24%) do not believe there are any added benefits and that there is limited availability in stores (14%).

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1765 Gemini is a young and dynamic hospitality distribution company based in Dubai that works with a wide-range of international and local hotel groups and brands. With a showroom based in iRise Tower, Tecom and a wholesale warehouse in Al Quoz, 1765 Gemini’s goal is to meet and exceed customers’ expectations by offering a one-stop shop for F&B tabletop solutions, in-room and housekeeping and also for the home. Through its talented, cosmopolitan team of professionals, 1765 Gemini offer a wealth of experience in the hospitality industry, matched with unrivalled value for money. 1765 Gemini go the extra mile to provide solutions, selling the best hospitality products for the most value for money to a large portfolio of clients including hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs and sporting venues in the UAE and neighbouring countries. Through its procurement companies and contacts, 1765 Gemini have exceeded the expectations of clients all over the MEA region. The company prides itself on working with professional brands that are specifically designed for the rigours of the

hospitality industry, such as Churchill China, one of the world’s major manufacturers and distributors of high quality ceramic tableware, as well as other leading manufacturers like Churchill, Rosenthal, Robert Welch, Sambonet, Stoelzle, IVV, Cosy & Trendy, Pordamsa, Mstyle, LSA International, Toyo Sasaki Glass, and Kilner to name but a few. 1765 Gemini is able to source quality items from just about anywhere. As part of their effort to go the extra mile, 1765 Gemini do not only sell products, but can act as a consultant due to the fact that they have worked in the hospitality industry for over 20 years, offering interpersonal skills and well-developed customer relationships with Executive Chefs, Financial Managers and Food & Beverage Directors. What gives 1765 Gemini an additional edge is that they are not only professional, but are a fun company to work with: amicable in business, responsible, experienced and thorough. 1765 Gemini knows that if a company isn’t all those things, they’re just no fun at all.

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UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

France to exhibit over 40 companies at GULFHOST & Specialty Food Festival Business France, the national agency supporting the international development of the French economy, will be taking center stage at Gulfhost and the Specialty Food Festival with two large pavilions exhibiting products of over 40 companies. Top industrial catering and hospitality companies from France will be showcasing their premium ranges of food service equipment and fine foods. Visitors will have the chance to meet company leaders who will reveal products and know-how and create opportunities to develop business with their Emirati and regionals counterparts. France is committed to UAE’s industrial F&B sector as it maintains its status as second largest partner. With 85% of UAE’s food requirements imported, French exports represent around €400 million in sales annually. France’s leading exports include mainly beverages (30%), dairy products (16%) and fruits (9%). The French Pavilion at Gulfhost will gather companies which will showcase the latest innovation of industrial kitchen equipment, cooking utensils and ranges of tools created for culinary professionals. The French syndicate of the food process equipment makers (SYNEG) will again this year, be one of the main partners supporting the initiative. Another pavilion gathering French companies at the

Specialty Food Festival will be exhibiting this year including companies representing confectionary, bakery-pastry, condiments and fine products. Horizon International, a regional partner of Business France, will support the culinary campaign by introducing six companies to the show. Other key partners contributing to the show’s success include EVIAN mineral water, BADOIT, the sparkling mineral water brand for fine dining and endorsed by top chefs globally, and CAFES RICHARD, a traditional “French-style” coffee roaster linked to the French gastronomy, Art de Vivre and to Paris.

Supporting business growth in the UAE The British Centre for Business (BCB) is proud to announce its exclusive partnership with Dubai-based, British owned, F&B specialists Ymakan. This partnership aims to provide additional support to UK companies as they journey through the business terrain in the UAE and the wider Middle East. Ymakan is a British-owned company, with a passion to bring good quality British products to the 51 million UAE and wider Middle Eastern consumers. Their wealth of knowledge and key connections within the F&B industry has led BCB to this exclusive partnership which aims to provide a more comprehensive level of support and cost savings to UK companies. While the BCB will continue to focus on supporting UK companies with their market entry and expansion in the UAE and the wider Middle East, Ymakan’s extensive knowledge and experience will establish, develop and grow your brand in the Middle East using their passionate and committed sales, marketing and promotional teams. If you are looking at making the break into the UAE and wider Middle East, it is paramount that the BCB give you the direction to ensure the best possible long-term success in this billion-dollar market. Ymakan’s specialist Media Division, Ymedia Solutions can offer advice, recommendations and considerable discounts on product launch packages and product growth packages to BCB clients. Through its partnership with Ymakan, BCB is excited to offer a full suite of services to its consumer and retail clients to ensure that they not only successfully enter the UAE and the wider Middle Eastern market but are also able to consistently grow their business through dedicated support, passion and hunger to succeed. For more information, please contact Wuraola Ogundimu, trade manager, consumer & retail at BCB on wuraola.ogundimu@bcbuae.com.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

www.host.fieramilano.it/en

French Pavilions

GULFHOST & SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL 30 october - 1st november 2018 Dubaï World Trade Centre

Come & discover the French offer ! GULFHOST Hall Sheikh Saeed 3 – S-C6

SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL Hall 3 – F3-12

WWW.BUSINESSFRANCE.FR

PARTNERS OF GULFHOST

PARTNERS OF SPECIALITY FOOD FESTIVAL

SCAN THE CODE TO WATCH THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2016

Miryem OUKAS MESSIDI

@BF_MiddleEast

Head of Communications miryem.oukasmessidi@businessfrance.fr

Mélanie DIA

Regional Trade Advisor Agrotech melanie.dia@businessfrance.fr

U P F R O NT / MOV E R S & S H AKE RS

SACHIN SHARMA, EXECUTIVE SOUS CHEF Copthorne Hotel Dubai

BORJA MOLINA, ASSISTANT DIRECTOR OF FOOD AND BEVERAGE

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

Shangri-La Hotel and Traders Hotel in Abu Dhabi Copthorne Hotel Dubai, located in Port Saeed in Deira, has announced the appointment of Sachin Sharma as the new executive sous chef. Sharma brings 15 years of culinary experience to the four-star property following his three-year tenure as sous chef at Intercontinental Dubai Marina. He will now be responsible for overseeing all of Copthorne Hotel Dubai’s kitchen operations, which includes Crystal Restaurant, Choices Café, Gazebo Pool Terrace, as well as in-room dining and banqueting events. His culinary journey started in 2003 at the Hotel Trident in Agra, India which is a few minutes’ walk from the famous Taj Mahal where he held the positions of commis chef and chef de partie. He left India in 2009 and moved to Scotland where he worked at an Italian fine dining restaurant called L’Ariosto for two years. Sharma then returned to India in 2011 to take on the role of junior sous chef at Taj Lake Palace and then as sous chef at Hyatt Regency in New Delhi back in 2012. His UAE experience began in 2013 when he joined Danat Jebel Dhanna Resort in Abu Dhabi as sous chef. produce, overseeing product purchasing and managing culinary budget for the resort.

Borja Molina has been appointed as the assistant director of food and beverage for the Shangri-La Hotel and Traders Hotel in Abu Dhabi. Relocating from Spain, Molina has more than eight years of hospitality expertise having worked with international hotel chains across Asia, Europe and the Middle East. In his new role, Molina will assist in planning, directing and supervising all activities associated with the operations of the food and beverage division. He will also be responsible for ensuring that the high professional standards expected of the Shangri-La brand are demonstrated in areas including training and supervision of the food and beverage team, optimal customer service, cash handling and production control, as well as maintaining a safe working environment. By recommending new products and staying current with the market’s trends, Molina will deliver strategic direction and execution for the dining venues at both hotels including Sofra bld, Hoi An, Bord Eau, Shang Palace and Afya.

MORITZ NEUMANN, EXECUTIVE CHEF La Ville Hotel & Suites, City Walk The 5-star boutique hotel, La Ville Hotel & Suites has welcomed Moritz Neumann as the executive chef. Chef Moritz with over 16 years of experience is bringing his culinary expertise to create new flavours for the hotel and its dining venues. Chef Moritz commented: "To best describe my cooking style, I would call it simple cosmopolitan, where the main ingredients take center stage and the techniques and flavours come from different global influences collected over the years. I enjoy enhancing natural flavours, ensuring our guests leave feeling nourished, well fed and looking forward to come back for more in no time." The German Chef started his career with the Marriott International when he joined Munich Marriott Hotel as apprentice in 2002. Over the past decade, Moritz has worked in leading hotels and restaurants in Germany, United Kingdom, United States of America, Qatar, and the United Arab Emirates. Most recently, he worked as the Executive Sous Chef overlooking the opening of the Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai and its F&B outlets.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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DIBBA BAY OYSTERS

The Middle East's first shellfish farm, producing gourmet oysters in the pristine waters of Northern Fujairah, UAE. Ramie Murray, managing director of East Coast Shellfish LLC tells more about the product.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

estled in the charming agricultural town of Dibba, between the Hajar Mountains and the clear waters of the Gulf of Oman, lives the Dibba Bay Oysters Farm. The locally-grown and harvested oysters are meaty and flavourful. They’re also packed with protein, vitamins and minerals like B12, zinc and vitamin C. Grown in extremely clean waters along sparsely populated coastline, the Dibba Bay Oysters thrive in shallow waters that are just meters away from very deep water off the continental shelf which allows for an abundance of food to arrive on cool deep sea currents. Due to the purity of the water and the abundance of plankton Dibba Bay Oysters quickly grow with an exceptional meat ratio, beautiful clean white shells and a delicious fresh taste. Telling more about the locally-fresh oysters, Ramie Murray explains how Dibba Bay Oysters became to be…

Tell us about Dibba Bay Oysters and how the company became… The farm was established in Dibba, Fujairah in 2016 after a very successful pilot the previous year. The species we grow, crassostria gigas, is a remarkably

resilient oyster species that showed substantial growth in the warm and algae rich waters of Fujairah. We chose the East coast rather than the Arabian Gulf due to the lower salinity and cooler waters compared to the Arabian Gulf.

What type of oysters are available and what are their characteristics in terms of taste and texture? We farm the pacific cupped oyster variety (crassostrias gigas) - this species is originally from Asia but is now the predominant farmed species across Europe, Asia, and increasingly in the Americas. The main characteristics of a Dibba Bay oyster is the beautiful and often very white and clean shell with a generally deep cup. Due to the exceptional growth rate which we get here the oysters are very meaty and muscular with a high meat content. There is a sweetness to the meat but also a pronounced brininess from them being raised in the open ocean. The biggest difference you may notice compared to a European raised oyster is the firmness (almost crunchiness) of the meat - and of course the freshness as our farm is only 90 min from our main customer base in Dubai!

What are some of the restaurants you currently work with in the UAE? The Maine, Sean Connolly at Dubai Opera, BOCA, Galvin Dubai, Hapi,

STK, plus many more in the coming months. We are also opening a Dibba Bay Farm Shop in Umm Sequim 1 Harbour in a couple of weeks - you will be able to come down and buy a box to take home or sit by the water and enjoy a plate of shucked local oysters. We will also be working on getting home deliveries going from this location ASAP.

How regularly are your oysters harvested and delivered? Currently we deliver every Tuesday through our distributor WET FISH.

How many oysters do you produce on a monthly basis? Monthly we are currently only doing 20-30,000 but we are scaling up over the summer and will be producing in excess of 60,000 in the coming months.

Do you welcome chefs to the farm to see the harvesting process, if they wish to see? Chefs are very welcome to get in touch and we can arrange a visit, just drop us a mail on info@dibbabay.com

For chefs reading, how should orders be placed? We work with WET FISH for distribution in Dubai and Abu Dhabi otherwise you can get in touch on sales@dibbabay.com For more information, visit dibbabay.com or e-mail info@ dibbabay.com

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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TOMATOLICIOUS Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

Vine-ripened cherry tomatoes grown in Al Ain, UAE using revolutionary, hydrogel based, Imec film technology, invented in Japan by Dr. Yuichi Mori. Director of Kibsons, Halima Jumani tells us more about the local production of Tomatolicious tomatoes.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

ell us how the tomatoes available at Tomatolicious are grown...

Tomatolicious tomatoes are grown using a revolutionary, hydrogel based, Imec film technology, invented in Japan by Dr. Yuichi Mori. This technology helps to produce a premium, super sweet, highly nutritious and colour-rich cherry tomato like no other. Plants on the Tomatolicious farm are cultivated and grown on a thin Imec hydrogel film that allows the efficient absorption of water and nutrients through millions of nano pores whilst preventing germs and viruses from entering the root system. This Imec film therefore allows for a healthy, efficient harvest without the need for any pesticides or fungicides. The unique properties of this Imec film also drastically reduce water consumption relative to conventional growing systems. Apart from saving water and being a more sustainable agricultural practice, the reduced access to water and nutrients also naturally stresses the plants to levels which accelerate their own natural synthesis of sugars and amino acids, leading to naturally sweeter and more nutritious tomatoes.

“Plants on the Tomatolicious farm are cultivated and grown on a thin Imec hydrogel film that allows the efficient absorption of water and nutrients through millions of nano pores whilst preventing germs and viruses from entering the root system.” The Imec soil-less farming system can literally be applied anywhere and provides a highly efficient and productive agricultural solution for arid landscapes such as the UAE. Simply put, every single drop of water and nutrient provided directly reaches the plant roots and is used efficiently by the tomatoes.

What type of tomatoes are available? Vine-ripened cherry tomatoes.

How do the tomatoes grown locally differ from those that are flown in from around the world to the UAE? The main differences include freshness, ripeness, sustainability, nutrition and taste! Generally any vegetables grown and airfreighted from overseas will be 3 – 4 days old by the time they arrive in the UAE. Tomatolicious tomatoes, on the other hand, are picked every morning on our farm

and reach customers within 24 – 36 hours of harvest. Ultimately this local advantage, combined with our unique growing technology, allow sweeter, fresher, riper and more nutritious tomatoes with a lower carbon footprint to reach hundreds of UAE customers on a daily basis.

Do you supply to any restaurants in the UAE at present? Kibsons are proudly promoting and distributing Tomatolicious tomatoes in the UAE. Their E-commerce consumers have previously had exclusive access to Tomatolicious but they are now also available to professional chefs throughout the UAE. They really must be tasted and tested to be fully understood and appreciated, great ingredients make great dishes!

How should orders be placed? Order online at kibsons.com. The Tomatolicious season starts again in October 2018.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRON T / TREN D I N G

PEARL’S

Pearl’s is a luxurious sparkling grape beverage that recently launched in the Middle East. It’s 100% natural, alcohol-free and halal-certified, while preserving French premium quality and incomparable taste.

For more information about Pearl’s please visit pearlsdefrance.com/ae

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Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

earl’s Vignes de France, from the heart of the vineyards in Burgundy, has launched a premium grape-based sparkling beverage made with pure grape juice and infused with carbon bubbles. Pearl’s is a sparkling 100% natural, alcohol free and halal certified drink, providing a new alternative to alcoholic bubbly beverages. Designed for the Middle East and in-line with cultural tastes and preferences, the name Pearl’s is in honour of the region’s historical pearl trading background and the packaging is designed in white as a symbol for purity and gold to portray the true splendor of the product. Created with an assortment of the finest grape selection of Chardonnay & Folle Blanche, picked exclusively from the French vineyard, Pearl’s taste is the perfect balance of a relatively dry, medium-bodied white grape emanating fresh aromas with crisp notes of fruity flavours. Pearl’s works in close collaboration with the vineyard’s growers to ensure that the highest-quality of grapes are selected. With only one production per year and each bottle having a biennial shelf life, Pearl's crystallizes the great skills and mastery of French vineyards to produce a beverage that meets the codes of luxury and celebration whilst adhering to sacred religious commitments. Pearl’s retails at AED 239 per bottle.

MEGRANATE PO

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EUROPEAN ORGANIC JUICES

www.euorganicjuices.eu

drink organic super juices

“The content of this this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency (CHAFEA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.”

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION

THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE A HEALTHY LIFESTYLE

U P F R O NT / TRE NDI NG

COFFEE MACHINES The latest in beverage machine technology.

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SUPPLIED

FAEMA E71E The new Faema E71E offers optimal management of the entire extraction process, from the extraction temperature to the infusion time, and enhancement of the sensory profile of every blend or single-origin coffee, to its coffee specialist. It also provides intuitive and ergonomic interaction with the machine that simplifies the barista’s work. Maximum customisation, both in terms of settings, enabling perfect extraction, and of accessories. Designed by Giugiaro Design, the new machine expands the E71 range and is designed and built to enhance the barista’s ability as well as experience in making espresso and milk-based beverages. The newly-designed independent groups are the heart of the E71: the point at which the barista’s creativity meets the mechanics of Faema’s new model. Thanks to its groups, the machine can manage different coffee varieties while respecting the specific temperatures that they each of them requires. Additionally, the hydraulic circuit with a patented GTi control system guarantees perfect management of coffee infusion times: an ideal combination for simultaneously ensuring high thermal stability, and enhancement of each coffee’s sensory profile. You can easily and quickly interact with the machine thanks to the new electromechanical control panel with 3 or 5 backlit buttons positioned on an ergonomic inclined plane while the OLED display above each group shows the temperature as well as the infusion and extraction time. The new, redesigned handles in the optional wooden version are designed to offer maximum ergonomics and comfort. Additionally, the filter holders in the naked and double shot versions offer the ability to use larger filters for double espressos extracted with 18/20 g of coffee and make coffee extraction even more engaging for coffee specialists. New longer, more articulated steam wands to allow baristas to also work with large milk jugs and in the position that they prefer with maximum visibility. They are also equipped with cold touch technology to make the grip even more secure and to facilitate cleaning after use. One of Faema E71E’s distinctive characteristics is its externally adjustable pump pressure, which enables quick and independent manual calibration by the barista. It can be customized according to the type of coffee used. Faema’s new traditional model is also fitted with new Faema Competition spray heads, which can be easily removed to facilitate daily cleaning operations. Finally, Faema’s new model offers numerous customization possibilities thanks to its wide range of accessories (rear panel, new group heads, steam tap covers and filter knobs) that will make the new E71E unique.

LACIMBALI S20 The new LaCimbali S20, which was developed by drawing on knowledge and expertise about traditional machines, enhances the LaCimbali super-automatic range with a perfect solution for locations that produce around 200 cups a day. Thanks to its built-in soluble hot chocolate system, you can also offer a wide and varied drinks menu, always guaranteeing the highest quality. LaCimbali S20 can be configured in Power Station mode for simultaneous supply of milk-based beverages from two adjacent machines, using only one fridge and thus optimising the work space. S20 Power Station allows you to maximise performance for optimal management of warm milkbased beverages. Thanks to the innovative technical solutions that have always made LaCimbali machines cutting-edge products, making coffee- and milk-based beverages will be simple and intuitive every day, forever. A result of a combination between the technological innovation of LaCimbali machines and the espresso tradition, S20 is the ideal tool for offering a unique and unforgettable taste experience. Thanks to the preheated, completely metal group head, you can achieve outstanding results, even for single-origin and specialty coffee, with a guarantee of consistent extraction over time. Is there a better way to describe an experience than through an image? The S20’s 7-inch touchscreen display allows you to see different options on the drinks menu (pre-selection and Group Mode) and to customise images displayed by the machine (such as screen savers and during beverage dispensing). You can also assist the customer when choosing their drink with video clips and animations. It is all very simple and intuitive. You can remotely communicate with the S20 via the integrated bidirectional Wi-Fi system, which makes updating software, setting recipes and customising background images simple and intuitive.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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GRECIAN GAIA Known for his tenures at two of Dubai’s leading French restaurants, Le Petite Maison and La Serre, chef Izu Ani has since gone on to open Carine at Emirates Golf Club, Izu Brasserie and Bakery at City Walk Dubai, and The Lighthouse at D3. As his next launch imminently nears, Izu takes us behind the scenes at his Greek-Mediterranean restaurant GAIA in DIFC. Interview SOPHIE VOELZING

You’re soon to open Gaia in DIFC – tell us about the concept… The idea of a Greek concept was born two years ago while I was having lunch with Evgany (a partner in the Bulldozer Group, the group behind the restaurant) who asked me what I thought about opening a Greek restaurant.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

After my experience a few years ago in Santorini where I worked for few months, I fell in love with Greece and since always thought about opening a concept that related to this culture. My reply to Evgany was naturally, “let’s do it!” This is where the collaboration of our thoughts started. “OPA” (the traditional Greek expression that’s said when breaking plates) was the first name given to the concept but being located in DIFC, we looked into giving the restaurant a stronger and more timeless name. The name GAIA, which is the ‘Greek Goddess of Earth’ in Greek mythology, came up and was the perfect fit for what we started to imagine. By being the embodiment of the earth and its ecosystem, GAIA’s focus will be on the food, its simplicity and authenticity. Every element in GAIA has been thought through to ensure all visitors will be entertained. From the bar that’s inspired and filled with hidden details reminiscent of the Greek islands to the secluded and intimate Chef’s Table located inside our main kitchen, inspired and decorated like a proper Grecian cave, guests will be invited to discover more and more about GAIA with every return visit.

What inspired you to open such a restaurant? I have used the same method and ethos that I used to learn French culture to learn Greek culture: being completely immerse into the culture. After my first experience in Santorini, I fell in love with the food, the culture and the people. The inspiration behind GAIA came from a combination of thoughts from Evgany, myself, my Chef Orestis – Gaia’s Head Chef – and a proper research and development team behind it. During our first research and development phase, I had the opportunity to travel around Greece, with destinations including Athens, Thessaloniki, Mykonos and Crète as part of my itinerary. It was a resourceful trip, which allowed me to come back with a lot of inspiration in terms of the design, food, and ambiance we wanted to recreate. A lot of decoration elements

Photographs SUPPLIED

et to open doors in DIFC by the end of October 2018, GreekMediterranean restaurant GAIA is named after the Greek Goddess of Earth, with each aspect of the restaurant designed to resonate with the sun, mountains and the sea. Inspired by Mediterranean culture, the premium restaurant will serve Greek cuisine, with a humble, comfortable and unpretentious approach. An ice market makes up a focal part of the venue, with fresh fish and seafood that changes daily. Each dish is served by a team of experts who can provide excellent recommendations tailored to suit every preference and taste. Filled with hidden details, reminiscent of the Greek islands, GAIA serves flavour and memories with a wholesome ambiance. Guests are encouraged to venture downstairs and explore a traditional souvenir shop, complete with authentic olive oil, shells and trinkets. The lower level also includes a secluded Chef’s Table, located on the outskirts of the kitchen. With fourteen seats surrounded by white stone walls decorated with copper pans and beautiful details, the table was designed to create an intimate experience. In conversation with chef Izu Ani, he tells more…

Get to know chef Izu What’s your favourite country for its food? Korea and Japan for their philosophy of life and the way they approach food. They consider food as a medicine and respect every element that surrounds them. Which brand of knifes do you use? Any Japanese knifes. I fell in love with the way the Japanese meticulously design their knives, with so much thought towards the effectiveness of each knife. What’s your ‘go-to’ meal? Souvlaki. What’s your preferred fish? Simply fresh! Who is your culinary inspiration? My mother. She inspires me in all aspects of life, not just in the kitchen.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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have been sourced directly from Greece and will be displayed around GAIA. These pieces give a unique dimension to the feel of the place which add to its authenticity. During our trip we also sourced ingredients that will be key elements on GAIA’s menu.

Tell us about some of the stand-out dishes on the menu at Gaia… GAIA is all about generosity. Greek tables are always filled with something in the middle to share with your family and friends. From the beginning until the end of the meal, you will always have something to discover and try. Our freshly baked bread from the wooden oven or the special welcome plate to start the meal will be key elements to GAIA’s dining experience.

We love that the restaurant will feature a fresh fish market. Where will you be sourcing your fish from for GAIA and what species can people expect to find? Most of our fish will come from Greece and the selection will change seasonally based on the quality. Our focus won’t be on how many varieties can be displayed but above all, on the freshness of what will be available. We won’t be ordering any specific fish, but we will receive whatever the fisherman finds from his daily catch.

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What’s a new ingredient that you’re enjoying cooking with at the moment and how do you utilise it in your dishes at Gaia? I don’t believe in ‘new ingredients’ but I believe in ‘basic ingredients’. The ingredient that I always enjoy using and will always be inspired to work with, is olive oil. It’s an essential element that simply brings all the flavours of a dish together. I have learned from A to Z the process of making olive oil, from the harvesting phase to the press and packaging phase, it made me enjoy and care even more about this product. It will be one of the key ingredients on the menu from starter through to dessert.

Are you able to source any of your fish and seafood locally in the Middle East? As previously mentioned, most our fish will be coming from Greece, as well as neighbouring countries from the Mediterranean. Being a Greek/ Mediterranean restaurant, most of the species we will be working with can’t be found locally unfortunately.

What are the most sustainable types of fish and seafood you’re working with at Gaia? Sustainability is about taking what will be available from the daily catch and

not trying to source species that can’t be found. What will be found and suggested by our fisherman, is what we will display and serve.

For chefs reading who would one day love to join your kitchen brigade – what four main qualities do you look for in a chef when hiring? I look mostly at a person’s attitude. From my experience, even a person who doesn’t have a basic culinary skill set can make fast improvements if they have the right attitude. I never look at CV’s and prefer to meet directly with the person and understand their character. A positive attitude and the will to learn and share knowledge you already have, allows everyone to succeed. In the kitchen, I test people and sometimes can be quite tough. Some people will understand that this is to make them stronger and to push their limits, while others will just give up. The more I believe in the potential of someone, the more I will push them. Chefs need to be pushed to grow and develop.

What is the overall experience that you’re hoping to provide your guests with? I want all of our guests to feel joy, generosity, pleasure, taste, comfort and fun. Above all, I want every guest to leave with a smile and the excitement to come back.

CACAO SELECTION FELCHLIN

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nezuela – Maracaibo – Sur del Lago

enowned and independent “Accademia Maestri awarded the title of “World’s Best Couverture”.

Aroma/Intensity

Emotion

[Chronological perception]

[Character]

COUVERTURE GRAND CRU MARACAIBO CLASIFICADO 65% FLAVOUR/INTENSITY

Orangeblossom

Cinnamon

Possible combinations [Inspiration]

The harmonious combination of coffee and plum aromas enhances the distinct cacao flavour. The traditional,fruity gentle processing roasted method unfolds the aromas of orange blossom and cinnamon. These lend a festive character to Maracaibo Clasificado 65%, which is apple further enhanced by the final sensation of a pear light, noble sweet raisin bouquet. coffee strawberry caramel passionate Also available as a milk mango couverture: black tea Grand Cru Maracaibo Criolait 38% blackberry authentic lemon

harmonious warm hearted

orange lime mango quince

caramel coffee nougat

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Interview SOPHIE VOELZING

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Photographs SUPPLIED

Head Chef Dharam Rana at Miss Lilyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dubai talks the evolution of Jamaican cuisine, the difficulties he faces sourcing Caribbean ingredients in the Middle East, and the art of jerking food.

now becoming a hub for world cuisine, however specifically Jamaican ingredients can be troublesome. There have been times when we have had to use several suppliers to either find an ingredient or get the correct amount of that ingredient. This was something we understood when we chose to serve a unique cuisine.

What are some of your favourite ingredients used at Miss Lily’s? All Spice Pimento, Picka Peppa, Scotch Bonnet Chilli, ackee, and coconut are some of my favourite ingredients that we used in our kitchen. The range of flavours and spice that some of these ingredients provide really play to my creative side. I can push boundaries and put my own twist on some traditional dishes, for example, by using Picka Peppa or Scotch Bonnet in a way that isn’t commonly known.

What is your signature dish at Miss Lily’s?

ere you always passionate about food growing up?

Yes, I was always passionate about food while growing up. It all started because of my father. I come from a family of chefs and I’ve grown up in an environment where everything was all related to cuisine, food, cooking techniques etc. Even at home when my Dad used to have a day off, it was spent tasting new dishes with him and helping in out in kitchen. So for me it all started from there. My passion to learn cooking techniques, my love for knives… I knew then that I was going to be a chef. This was my future. This was going to be my career.

Talk us through the menu concept at Miss Lily’s and some of the dishes on offer… The menu concept is to replicate dishes, smells, flavours, and feelings you would get if you were back in the Caribbean. We use authentic ingredients, such as Scotch Bonnet, All Spice, Callaloo, and Ackee, that can all be attributed to traditional Jamaican cuisines. Some the dishes we offer that feel like home are our world-

Without a doubt our signature dish the ‘world-famous jerk grilled chicken’ – it’s a must-try dish and is arguably the most recognised dish in Jamaican cuisine. famous jerk chicken, traditional curry goat, oxtail stew, ackee and salt fish, steamed callaloo, rice and peas, festivals.

What has your experience been like finding reliable suppliers in the region, offering high-quality products required in the Jamaican kitchen? There are many reputed suppliers in Dubai and the surrounding region as Dubai is

In your option, what are the most important things to do when Jerking food Jamaican style? Hands down the most important thing about properly jerking food is a real charcoal grill. Without that, the flavuors just don’t come out right. Second is your marinade. Whether it’s dry rub or wet rub, it should have all the island flavours and ingredients like Scotch Bonnet, scallions, ginger, pimento, garlic etc.

What are five essential ingredients in every Jamaican kitchen?

Scotch Bonnet, Pimento, Jerk Spice, spring onion and ackee Are there any unique or Interesting kitchen appliances or equipment required when creating Jamaican cuisine?

Inside the Jamaican kitchen with chef Dharam Rana

Yes - the barbacoa charcoal grill, the Dutch pot, which is a heavy cast iron pot, the tava, which is a piece of equipment originating from India that's used to make roti, it's flat shaped and made of cast iron. Lastly, the bammy press is a traditional flat bread maker used to give shape to the bammy. What’s the best Jamaican dish you’ve ever tired and why?

Jerk chicken is one of my favourite dish because of the charcoal flavour.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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“Jerk chicken, curry goat, oxtail stew, ackee and salt fish, and steamed callaloo are some of the dishes on Miss Lily’s menu” Everything has to soak into the chicken for as long as possible. Lastly, is the homemade jerk sauce for basting. When you add all of these steps together, you are good to start Jerking food Jamaican style.

Are there any Jamaican ingredients that you’d love to serve at the restaurant, but struggle to source here? Ackee and callaloo are two ingredients we use regularly and though we have suppliers that provide us with high quality product, it must be canned to preserve freshness. Ideally, I would like use ingredients right from the source. Since these products only

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grow in the Caribbean, travel time doesn’t allow us to do that.

traditional flavours with healthier ingredients might be the next step.

Recognition of Jamaican and Caribbean cuisine appears to be on the rise worldwide – why do you think this is?

Will Miss Lily’s ever further expand in the region?

Jamaican and Caribbean cuisine are multicultural, with influence of Indian, African and European cooking found within. Nowadays, with so many people migrating to different parts of the world, food is also travelling because of this, which is why the world is getting familiar to the island cuisine.

What do you predict as the next big trend in Caribbean cooking? Caribbean food and its style of cooking comes from a place of love, comfort, and availability. Being on an island created limits on options of ingredients and people had to make do with what was around. Being heavily based in tradition, most of the cuisine will remain the same, however, I can see healthier alternatives presenting themselves in years to come. Access to ingredients and techniques have improved over time and trying to replicate

We’ve been fortunate to experience great success in this region and many people have asked us about expanding. Anything is possible, but right now we’re focused on making our current venue the best we can.

Looking ahead, are there any exciting happenings due to take place at the restaurant, such as new promotions or menu changes? At Miss Lily’s we are making a constant effort to explore island cuisine and trying something different. We have an amazing Friday Brunch (Miss Lily’s Blazin’ Brunch) menu that’s totally different from our regular menu, where we have incorporated more varieties of island cuisine. We have currently special menu that we offer on Tuesday’s known as The Rundown Menu. This consists of 8-9 different flavoured dishes in miniature form full of Island delights. We like to keep this menu fresh by switching up some of the dishes periodically to provide get new culinary experiences.

Photographs SUPPLIED

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The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

TACO TALK Head Chef Lara Said from Dubai’s coolest new Mexican street-food spot, La Carnita DXB at the InterContinental Dubai Marina, talks tacos, culinary inspiration and rising to the top in a male-dominated environment. Interview SOPHIE VOELZING

ith experience in some Dubai’s favourite restaurants including Il Borro Tuscan Bistro and La Petite Maison, plus Gordon Ramsay's eponymous 3-Michelin star restaurant in London, chef Lara Said has established a strong name for herself in the industry with her impressive culinary repertoire at just 29-years old – and now, she’s leading the kitchen at Mexican street-style food restaurant La Carnita DXB, which recently opened at InterContinental Dubai Marina. A native of France, Lara began her inroads into the culinary world at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. Since then, she has lived and extensively travelled throughout Western Europe, the Middle East and the Americas, obtaining a taster of multiple cultures to influence her cooking style. Having started her career in London, Chef Lara has since been an indispensable part of the team at La Petite Maison DIFC, La Serre VIDA Hotel Downtown Dubai and Jean Georges at the Four Seasons Jumeirah Beach. Most recently, Lara held the position of Sous Chef at Il Borro, Jumeirah Al Naseem, where she was responsible for menu creation, sourcing the right ingredients and coordinating with local and international suppliers. After several years of experience at fine dining restaurants, Chef Lara is venturing into ‘street food’, making her culinary creations accessible and affordable to most.

Photography MAKSYM PORIECHKIN

Now, as Head Chef at La Carnita DXB, chef Lara tells us more about her new role and the restaurant…

Tell us about your journey so far as a chef… When I was younger, I spent a lot of time with my mother cooking in the kitchen, and that’s where I developed my love and passion for food. I then decided to enroll myself in culinary school in Paris when I was 18 years old and have been in the kitchen ever since.

Talk us through the menu concept at La Carnita DXB and some of the dishes on offer… We are a North American and Mexican concept from Canada that blends good food, a good vibe and great music all in one. The menu is designed to have a little bit of everything for everyone, from stand-out appetisers like Scorpion Wings and Mexican Street Corn to a whole range of tacos to suit every palette. Some of my personal favourites on the menu would be the seabass ceviche and the BBQ lamb chops.

As an import from Canada, how does La Carnita DXB fare in comparison? Are there any differences? We are similar in a lot of ways, but we have slightly adapted the menu to cater to the consumers here. We have also added main dishes to the menu here, run weekly specials for which all the chefs work together to come up with creative dishes.

“I have never let the fact that I’m a woman shape my career, and it shouldn’t others. I’ve got to where I am through sheer hard work, determination and a genuine love for what I do.”

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

What ingredient are you obsessed with at the moment and how are you ultilising them in your dishes? At the moment I’m loving tomatillos (Mexican husk tomato). We use them for a salsa that we mix coconut and lime into, and the result is amazing. I am also working them into some ceviche specials that we offer on the weekend.

Are there any Mexican ingredients you’d love to offer on your menu, but struggle to source here? Thanks to Dubai’s geographic location, we are lucky to get great quality products from all over the world.

On a global level, which chef or chefs do you look to for inspiration and why?

What has your experience been like finding reliable suppliers in the region, offering highquality products required in the Mexican kitchen? After having worked in Dubai for about seven years, I’m quite familiar with the majority of the suppliers here. La Carnita DXB is uncompromising when it comes to quality, so creating everything from scratch allows us to adjust recipes where necessary and to maintain the bold flavour combinations on which our reputation was built.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

The chefs that I look to for inspiration are definitely Daniel Humm from Eleven Madison Park in New York, and Dominique Crenn from Atelier Crenn in San Fransisco. Another chef that I admire is Clare Smyth who I had the pleasure of working for in London for around two years at the start of my career.

We’re slowly starting to see more female chefs breaking through in the maledominated culinary industry (hurrah!) – why do you think that is? For me, I have never let the fact that I’m a woman shape my career, and it shouldn’t others. I’ve got to where I am through sheer hard work,

determination and a genuine love for what I do, so I hope that inspires others to believe that they can too. Women and men should always be seen as equal.

Reflecting on your experience, what challenges – if any – did you face coming through the ranks and how did you combat them? Everyone has off days but if you have a genuine passion for what you do, you keep going and it makes you stronger.

CMY

What advice would you give ambitious female chefs just starting out in the industry? Personally, I have never thought of myself as less capable than any other male chef so if you have the passion, skill and consistency - that’s all that matters. My advice to any future chefs would be do the job like anyone would, and not to think of yourself as inferior or incapable in any way.

Looking ahead, do you have any exciting happenings upcoming at the restaurant in terms of new ingredients, menu changes, special events, etc.? We’re newly-opened, so at the moment the menu is still fresh. That being said, we just launched our special ‘Taco Tuesday’ where guests are able to build their own tacos at the table, family-style. What’s more is we’re always experimenting with a variety of ingredients to create cool, new dishes, which we feature as specials every week.

FE ATU R ES / IN S IGHT

36 The Pro Chef Middle East

/ Autumn 2018

Is the UAE ahead of the game when it comes to global food trends? Following its official launch at the 2018 Global Restaurant Investment Forum in Dubai in March, it’s been a busy few months for GRIF Society – the international members network for the restaurant investment industry. GRIF Society’s series of global industry briefings kicked off in London in early summer, before returning to its Dubai roots in September for a gathering of key regional restaurant investors, innovators and inspirers. Here, Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, Managing Director Middle East at Bench Events and Co-Founder of GRIF Society, discusses how Dubai’s F&B landscape is increasingly holding its own on the global scene.

PHOTOGRAPHS SUPPLIED, SHUTTERSTOCK

ith London’s dynamic restaurant scene widely regarded as a leader in the global food and beverage industry, I was fascinated to hear that some of the hottest culinary trends making waves in the UK capital at the moment are born out of three cuisines which are already widely – and very successfully – represented here in our region, and particularly in Dubai: Mexican, Japanese and, perhaps most pleasingly, Middle Eastern cuisine. Dubai has had a long-standing love affair with Japanese cuisine, with Zuma being a perennial favourite on the city’s everevolving food scene. The restaurant, which is a regular feature on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best Restaurants in the World, recently celebrated its tenth anniversary, a feat which should not be underestimated given the fastmoving and challenging nature of the market. Meanwhile, we’ve seen a burst of new Mexican restaurants opening to great applaud over the last few months such as Luchador and La Carnita, whilst Colin Clague’s Turkish concept Ruya continues to make waves in Dubai, as well as recently opening its doors in London’s exclusive Mayfair district.

With this in mind, I sat down with some of region’s leading operators to get their take on whether Dubai’s ever-evolving culinary scene could be seen as being ahead of the game globally when it comes to developing exciting and refreshing concepts inspired by Mexican, Japanese and Middle Eastern cuisine and culture. “Japanese has a strong representation in Dubai, and it’s been like that for a number of years now, with Zuma being the standard bearer for excellent food quality and a consistent experience,” says Ryan Hattingh, Partner at Atelier EPJ. “By comparison, whilst there some great Mexican restaurants in Dubai – La Tablita is a personal favourite of mine – there aren’t that many compared to, say Japanese, and, although we’ve seen several new concepts opening lately, these have mainly been in the mid-market and casual sector. “That said, I don’t believe the market is big enough to sustain a large number of Mexican-specialty restaurants, which is why operators such as ourselves see broader Latino or Caribbean concepts, similar to Hotel Cartagena, coming to the forefront.”

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, Managing Director Middle East at Bench Events and Co-Founder of GRIF Society

Ramzy Abdul-Majeed, Founder & Managing Director at Whissle Hospitality Group

Harry McKinley, Food Writer, Editor and Hospitality Consultant

Ryan Hattingh, Partner, Atelier EPJ

38 The Pro Chef Middle East

/ Autumn 2018

Ramzy Abdul-Majeed, Founder & Managing Director at Whissle Hospitality Group, agrees that the fine dining segment for Japanese is already well served. “Not only do we have our home-grown concept OKKU, which has also been in the market for 10 years, but concepts such as Tomo and Play, as well as globally renowned brands – such as Nobu, Morimoto and – of course – Zuma, having made a real and lasting impact.” “Looking beyond the high-end segment, I believe there is still room for more mid-range Japanese concepts due to the sheer volume of consumer that love this type of food. It is inevitable that with an increase in customers, the demographic shifts to mean there are many more customers requiring more affordable offerings and hence the opportunity for well-considered, good quality mid-range concepts.” Similarly, Abdul-Majeed also sees an opportunity for Mexican to make a further mark on the city’s culinary scene. “Both the mid-range (by this, we’re talking about price point of AED150-250 per head) and high-end Mexican segments are under-represented in Dubai thus far and I do believe that there is room for some new concepts. This will be addressed to some extent later this year, with a high-end / fine dining Mexican concept from the US opening in a spectacular space at the Grand Millennium Business Bay in Q4, which I think will really change how Dubai views Mexican cuisine.” When it comes to Arabic cuisine, whilst the general consensus is that the region is widely represented, other than the likes of Ruya, it’s not yet competing at the same level as, say a Zuma. That could all be set to change though as it seems Middle Eastern cuisine is finally about to have its moment here in the UAE. We’ve seen some fantastic new openings of late, with the likes of Lebanon’s Babel launching at La Mer. This isn’t just limited to Dubai, the UAE or even to the region: this cuisine, which has remained largely unchanged for generations upon generations, is now seeing an

“Looking beyond the high-end segment, I believe there is still room for more mid-range Japanese concepts due to the sheer volume of consumer that love this type of food” unprecedented rise in popularity around the world. It’s a trend which we will be exploring at the GRIF Annual Forum in Amsterdam in February but what we’re seeing so far could be attributed to several global food trends – including the growth in the vegan/vegetarian movements and flexitarianism, especially among Millennials – converging to create somewhat of a perfect storm which plays to the unique strengths of Middle Eastern cuisine. Harry McKinley, the renowned food writer, editor and hospitality consultant who will be moderating the session at GRIF Annual Forum, further explains: “From casual concepts to progressive fine dining, Levantine cuisine is sweeping the globe. Enticing diners with its fusion of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern influences, it taps into an appetite for bold ingredients, soulful flavours and a more social way of eating – with a focus on sharing plates or shamelessly messy, but undeniably satisfying, street food. From London to LA, Dubai to New York, chefs and restaurateurs are taking the culinary traditions of the region and putting inventive twists on them, with modern interpretations of timehonoured recipes.” Put simply, the rest of the world is finally catching up on the delights of Middle Eastern cuisine and it’s going to be a wonderful to see how if grows and evolves on a global scale. GRIF Society will hold its inaugural event in Riyadh, KSA on November 28 – 29, GRIF-KSA organised in conjunction with Semark as part of an exclusive series of global events for the restaurant investment industry. To find out more about GRIF Society’s Riyadh Conference and the GRIF Annual Forum in Amsterdam (February 25 –27) please visit GRIF.com.

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F E AT U R E S / I NS I GH T

CLOSED forBUSINESS Why are so many restaurants closing doors? Abdul Kader Saadi, founder and managing director of Glee Hospitality Solutions shares his thoughts on Dubai’s F&B scene and explores ways in which restauranteurs could boost business. Interview SOPHIE VOELZING

ell us a little bit about Glee Hospitality Solutions and the services you offer…

PHOTOGRAPHS SUPPLIED

Glee Hospitality Solutions specialises in the food and beverage sector. We develop and implement new restaurant concepts as well as taking care of the daily management of the outlets. We provide services from business planning, to securing location, interior design, branding, recruitment, menu development, sourcing of all operating equipment, contractor and kitchen supplier tender process, all the way to the launch of the outlet. Post-opening we can take over the management by providing operational support and back office services such as coordination of marketing services, staff training, menu analysis, accounts and human resource. Additional services provided by our organization also include tenancy mix studies, market studies, auditing, franchising services and advisory on acquisitions

“You need strong marketing tools to promote your brand and stand out – simply offering good food and services is no longer sufficient” Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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China Grill at The Westin Mina Seyahi closed in February 2018

HOW TO IMPROVE BUSINESS Abdul’s tips for boosting business • Make sure you are as efficient as possible, review all your expenses – be as lean as possible but without impacting the food and service quality. • Marketing and social media, even in the downturn you need to continue promoting your place. • Educated promotions, and why I say educated as I see many places giving such heavy promotions that I wonder how they are even covering their cost. Recently I saw a message promoting "free drinks for 2 hours for everyone or free food”.

What are some of the main reasons restaurants in Dubai are struggling to make a profit in the current market? Overall the market has been somewhat difficult with this trend beginning approximately 18 months ago and consequently, a lot of these outlets were not prepared for a slow-down. As a result, they now find themselves carrying heaving investments and operating expenses. Overall people are looking for deals whether it is through the Entertainer or delivery portals – consumers have a much wider option base now to choose from – competition is fierce.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Peyote in DIFC closed in 2018

We are witnessing an increasing number of restaurants close doors. Why do you think this is? A lot of restaurants opened without the proper foundations in place, such as a proper business plan and/or market study with proper and realistic financials. The high rents from a couple of years back impacted the business. The lack of working capital to support the business in a slow-down also resulted in cash flow shortage hence shutting down. Retail as a whole has seen a slow-down and that’s due to geopolitical factors, as well as the price of oil, which dropped three years back. Competition and numerous developments meant trade became more difficult – not everything will work even in a prime location

Even outlets that appear to be heading for success, with the right location, great menu and service, are closing. Where are they going wrong? I would say underestimating the cost of doing business. One thing is investing in the place, in the CAPEX another one is underestimating the OPEX of a business. They are simply not able to generate sufficient income to cover their running expenses. You need strong marketing tools to promote your brand and stand out – simply offering good food and services is no longer sufficient – you need to stand out to be successful.

Spice & Ice, JLT closed in January 2018

Seasonality hurts many outlets in the region. How can restaurants ease the negative pressure during the summer months? Seasonality does hurt many outlets and in certain developments or locations more than others – unfortunately, we don’t have part-time staff as of yet, if we had then you can gear up your business in winter and wind down in summer – sure you can send some staff back home but you are still paying their salaries, and the seasonality is not 8 weeks it’s closer to 16 weeks and longer in this region. Sure we can do promotions and review the menu offers but in reality, the business does slow down. You can try to ease the negative summer pressure by perhaps managing your food cost better and doing a different offering but the fact remains that at least 75% of your OPEX will remain the same no matter what you do (and that’s excluding food cost) - you still have to pay rent, salaries, DEWA, etc. the seasonal locations should reflect a seasonal rent and opening hours.

Does the cost of rent pay a big factor in the failure of Dubaibased restaurants? I would say yes until about a year ago yes. The rents were not realistic and did not reflect the footfall generated in certain

Dragonfly by Tim Raue closed in late 2017

Zahira at H Hotel closed in January 2018

Morah at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai closed in October 2017

Firebird Diner at Four Seasons DIFC closed in October 2017

360 at Jumeirah Beach Hotel closed in May 2018

developments. Most rents we have secured over the last 18 months are a lot more reasonable for the exception of one (rents have dropped in certain areas by as much as 50%). Rents in the West are around 12% of your turn over, in some case regionally they were closer to 20%.

For new restaurants set to open over the coming year, what pre-opening steps should they take differently to those before them? Complete your businesses plan and address the right questions. Is there really a gap in the market for what you are trying to offer? What’s going to distinguish you from the rest? What’s your USP? Make sure you negotiate you rent well. Don’t

overspend on fit out and set and make sure you have working capital – have the right team on board, qualified and motivated staff. If you don’t have the experience make sure you have someone with you who has done it before

Looking to 2019, what do you forecast for the state of the region’s F&B industry?

We are going through a sort of correction. The weaker ones will shut down and are shutting down. I would say it’s a normal cycle of ups and downs. Once the government initiatives are in place and with the EXPO 2020, I’d believe we will see things turning around. The number of tourists visiting Dubai is still very high, we just need to get the tourist out into the developments and spend!

Glee Hospitality Solutions, established in 2009 and headquartered in Dubai, has evolved over the years to become a leading hospitality management and consultancy company across the region offering comprehensive end-to-end solutions and proven expertise in restaurant concept development, restaurant management of outlets across the wider Gulf. For more information, visit gleehospitality.com

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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F E AT U R E S / I NS I GH T

GAME OF

STOVES SEXUAL HARASSMENT, MENTAL ILLNESS AND ADDICTION ARE SOME OF THE VERY REAL ISSUES FACED BY THE WORLD'S F&B INDUSTRY EVERY DAY. LENDING INSIGHT, FOOD SHEIKH, AN ANONYMOUS INDUSTRY INSIDER AND ARGUABLY ONE OF THE MOST CREDIBLE (AND AMUSING) COMMENTATORS OUT OF THE MIDDLE EAST, ON BEHALF OF THE GLOBAL RESTAURANT INVESTMENT FORUM, TELLS MORE.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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ith London’s dynamic restaurant scene widely regarded as a leader in the global food and beverage industry, I was fascinated to hear that some of the hottest culinary trends making waves in the UK capital at the moment are born out of three cuisines which are already widely – and very successfully – represented here in our region, and particularly in Dubai: Mexican, Japanese and, perhaps most pleasingly, Middle Eastern cuisine. It's mad what's going on in our industry at the moment. It's just one thing after the other. There is so much change and drama, it's like some weird episode of Games of Thrones. Game of Stoves, The Red Catering. I don't recall a time when so many important topics and issues were being written and debated about in such equal parts celebration and condemnation and with such vivacity. The F&B industry was once a golden unicorn galloping through the world's high streets, retail centers and strip malls, pooping out glittering franchises, venture capitalist dollars and unsustainable accelerated growth throughout the lands. Restaurants were sitting pretty, and EBITA was king. Demand was high, sentiment was strong, and there was boldness and courage to try anything, because, despite conventional wisdom, it worked. If you've ever spent 10 Euros on a bowl of cereal at Cereal Killer Café, in Dubai Mall, then you'll know what I mean. Gosh, what a difference an election can make. Which election, you ask? Pick one. Any one will do.

Serious business In the past, the issues that most restaurants typically dealt with were a few overcooked steaks, some light pilferage and a few questionable kitchen hygiene habits that needed correcting. But today, we are having conversations that are life-changing, necessary and difficult. We are struggling with a sexual harassment cancer that has been allowed to fester and grow throughout our great industry. When the most dangerous thing in the kitchen is no longer the meat slicer, but an empty walk-in fridge, you know change needs to happen.

46 The Pro Chef Middle East

/ Autumn 2018

Industry giants such as John Besh and Mario Batali are being called out and held to account for their behaviours and perhaps we are all complicit in allowing a 'Bro' mentality to thrive. We are also grappling with demons of addiction and mental illness, with more and more chefs speaking up about their issues. Vice's Matty Matheson openly talks about how, after years of alcohol and drug abuse, he suffered catastrophic heart failure at just age 29 and even Gordon did a documentary about drug use in his restaurants. David Chang has opened up about his fight with depression, and we all were devastated to learn what happened to Anthony Bourdain. May he find peace now. Pretty bleak stuff. However, support groups such as Ben's Friends and Chefs with Issues have launched, providing much-needed help and support for those who no longer need to suffer in silence and the industry leaders are starting to have more of these difficult but important conversations with their teams. However, there is so much more work to be done and in an industry that has always put the customer first, perhaps it’s time to start putting ourselves first.

Lost storytellers We have lost some of the world's greatest culinary storytellers - AA Gill, an irreverent writer of truly incandescent prose, showed us how exciting food and travel could be. Anthony Bourdain, with his ability

“In the past, the issues that most restaurants typically dealt with were a few overcooked steaks, some light pilferage and a few questionable kitchen hygiene habits that needed correcting. But today, we are having conversations that are life-changing, necessary and difficult.”

LEONARD ZHUKOVSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

to showcase extraordinary diversity and find common ground over a simple meal, connected with us all on a profoundly personal level. Most recently, we lost Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer from LA, who was a conduit for bringing the City of Angels closer together. Maintaining our standards Our industry standards, our infallible benchmarks, those accolades that every professional strives to attain are in danger of losing their credibility. The Michelin guide is coming under increasing fire about their independence and relevance. The tourism authorities of both Thailand and Korea have reportedly forked out millions of dollars in return for a Michelin Guide. To add to the controversy, according to many critics and Michelin followers, the Seoul guide was questionable in its accolades and riddled with errors. There’s been a quiet restaurant revolt simmering in kitchens across the planet, with a number of high profile chefs becoming less and less impressed by the famous guide. Jay Fai who won one star for her street food in the inaugural Bangkok guide already wishes she could give it back. Three-star chef Sebastian Bras wrote to Michelin asking not to be included in the next guide along with the owners of Scotland’s Boath House who wanted to have their stars removed. Jerome Brochot requested to give his one star back, as did Karin Keyngaert, because they both

David Chang

couldn’t afford the costs of maintaining a Michelin-starred restaurant. Tourism Australia paid 600k US$ to host the 2017 ceremony of the World's 50 Best Restaurants. Sure, these institutions are not charities and taking revenue is fine, but if accepting vast amounts of money from the tourist board puts them under pressure to hand out stars and awards, then it raises significant questions. The 50 World's best is under fire as well, for their less than transparent voting process, which has as much clarity as a FIFA World Cup bid. The growing consensus from the food media is that the 50 World's Best is a great list if you are European, white and male. If you're anything else, you better have 600k spare to host the event, because that's probably the closest you're getting to one of the awards.

Circle of life As Gaucho goes into administration and Cau closed all 22 outlets with immediate effect, we are reminded of how closely connected we are as an industry. It was encouraging to see the outpouring of support and sympathy across social media as the news broke.

Exclusive insights Companies like D&D London reaching out to offer employment opportunities for ex-staff of Cau is heartwarming and shows the very best of our industry. Hawksmoor,

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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the steakhouse group, also extended their help to those who lost their jobs and offered a free round of drinks to all Cau gift card holders, who couldn't redeem their cards due to the closures. Dubai is shedding its skin, closing some legacy places, such as The Agency, 360 and Hakkasan. Yet, Massimo Bottura, Akira Back, and Todd English are all opening new places this year, and the circle of life continues.

On a lighter note

A leader for our time I think the need for leadership in our industry has never been stronger than now, and it's time for the industry leaders, regardless of where they sit in the food chain, to stand up and provide a voice of reason, support, and clarity for the rest of us.

48 The Pro Chef Middle East

/ Autumn 2018

Anthony Bourdain

“We are grappling with demons of addiction and mental illness, with more and more chefs speaking up about their issues.” We are an industry that needs a steady hand, and some credibility and confidence injected back into it. We all know this industry is special, filled with some of the most talented, honest and hardworking people you could find. We all know our industry will emerge, stronger, cleaner and better for all this turmoil and chaos. We know all this, but sometimes we need to be told this and reminded of the way.

FoodSheikh is an anonymous restaurant critic and food writer. FoodSheikh has over 20 years’ experience in F&B, having worked across the globe for some of the worlds most respected hospitality and F&B companies. Starting from pot wash and working all the way up to senior level management, he has both experience and passion in equal measure. Determined to support and celebrate this great industry, FoodSheikh runs a food media website, foodsheikh.com where he creates original and entertaining articles, infographics and restaurant reviews. For more information on GRIF and GRIF Society, please visit GRIF.com.

PHOTOGRAPHS STOCK_PHOTO_WORLD / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

However, it's not all drama and chaos in our industry. Some order in our world has been restored. NYC has finally banned the use of activated charcoal in food and drink items. This "Goth food" has been finding its way into ice cream, cocktails, burger buns, juices and even pizza crusts in recent years. However, it seems consuming too much of the stuff can result in things like dehydration, constipation, and black tongues. We'll all have to go back to scrapping burnt toast, like in the good old days. The Museum of Ice Cream has also felt the wrath of the authorities down in Florida. They have been fined for their selfie-friendly rainbow sprinkle room. As visitors leave the 'museum,' they take with them hundreds of plastic sprinkles that end up in Miami's waterways and streets and drains, causing environmental hazards. Perhaps they should all "double-shake" before they exit. Or the museum should install a walk-on vibration platform. Just make sure the setting is on "vicious." For those of you who don't know, The Ice Cream Museum is a series of pretty rooms in pretty colours based on ice cream and candy themes. Tickets for The Museum of Ice Cream are 38 US$. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, on the other hand, is a highly curated collection of over two million works of significant historical importance. Tickets to the MET are 25 US$.

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WHAT’S ON OFFER? Ymakan offers clients a mix of services that are customised to add value and provide real food and beverage solutions.

makan INTRODUCING:

In a one-to-one with Ymakan, the region’s experts in F&B brand development, we hear from the company’s co-founder & CEO Sarah Motwali and co-founder & managing partner Vanessa Linney to learn of F&B solutions and services on offer

SOURCING SOLUTIONS: Having a real passion for good food, we’ve spent many years building up a network of suppliers, manufacturers and farmers from over 30 countries worldwide, with a focus on global trends using our market research systems, to keep an eye on what is happening within the F&B industry both locally and internationally. This allows us to source products easily, negotiate pricing that works and arrange sampling sessions, hence saving time wasted on sourcing products that just do not fit the chefs portfolio. We work with our F&B Partners to help them challenge their cost base or to bring new innovative brands or concepts that they can introduce into their outlets or onto their menus. This means they get the opportunity to taste and use these new brands and ingredients before their competitors, along with a marketing story to create a point of difference on their menus or in their outlets. We will always work hard to get as much support from the supplier, manufacturer or farmer, to help the chef or F&B outlet to promote the product once it is ‘live’ on their menus or being sold in their stores. DISTRIBUTOR RELATIONS: This part of our business includes partnering our F&B brands with the right distributor to ensure their brand is looked after, stored at the right temperature and delivered as smoothly as possible. This gives any chef or F&B company piece of mind that any products Ymakan bring to them can be accessed and ordered through a reputable distributor, consistently and on time. BRAND REPRESENTATION: We aim to become ‘the feet on the ground’ in the Middle East for all unique and innovative F&B brands, who are have been successful in their home country and are looking to export here. We can help them launch and commercialise across HORECA & Retail channels within the UAE and wider Middle East. We work closely with them to understand their requirements and objectives, whilst using our market research team and systems to ensure there is a need for their brand within the F&B industry in the Middle East. MEDIA AND PROMOTION: Through Ymakan’s specialist media division, Ymedia Solutions, we work with our brands and some of the leading F&B media platforms in the Middle East to help ensure the F&B industry and foodie consumers are educated and aware that the brands we represent are available and where they can taste or buy the products. Aside from conventional advertising and promotions, point of sale, merchandising and in-store sampling, we are partnered with some of the largest publishers in the Middle East who have been producing some of the leading F&B media titles plus B2B and consumer events for over 25 years.

What is Ymakan? Ymakan is a Dubai-based, British-owned specialist food and beverage brand development and marketing agency. We work within various F&B channels including hotels and restaurants to provide access to new, quality and sustainable products. At Ymakan we make it our business to understand the local F&B market place, trends, potential growth sectors, and most importantly the needs and tastes of the industries food buyers and experts within it. Why was Ymakan set up? Ymakan was born out of a passion for delivering good quality food and beverage products and ingredients to the Middle Eastern F&B industry, sourced from across the world. After spending many years working within the UAE and GCC food supply chain industry, we identified some really important gaps in the market. Firstly, high-quality F&B brands from across the globe, either new to the UAE or currently exporting here were finding it hard to connect with the right companies to help them increase sales and growth fast. The only way to do this was to employ an ambassador on the ground, or open an office in the UAE to carry out the ongoing work needed to ensure their brands success and growth, which proved to be a very costly risk. Secondly, busy chefs were struggling to find new ingredients and products that would fit into their menu portfolio, balancing quality vs cost along with focus on sustainability and wastage. And lastly, once brands were settled and exporting to the region, they had no idea what kind of merchandising, marketing or advertising investment they would require to let the consumer or the food service industry know that their product was available. So, Ymakan was established to offer solutions that address these gaps in the market.

E-mail: sarahmotwali@ymakan.com / vanessalinney@ymakan.com Call: Sarah on +971 50 343 9649 / Vanessa on +971 54 434 1919

@ymakanglobal

Why and how is Ymakan an expert in the F&B industry? Ymakan offer nearly 30 years of experience and knowledge within the F&B sector, finding food, beverage, media and promotional solutions for some of the largest food companies in the world, along with sourcing new, innovative products and ingredients for chefs in the region, helping manage their menu ideas from conception to completion. We have worked across various segments of the industry, including government-led projects and events, also working alongside top chefs and industry thought leaders on menu creation and new product development. We have sucessfully managed both supply chain, sales and marketing functions within local distributors and created industry leading marketing campaigns within some of the world’s most prestigious titles and media houses. How does Ymakan’s services benefit chefs and procurement directors? Having worked with 100s of chefs and procurement directors across F&B channels such as 5* hotel groups, QSR’s, catering companies, airlines, coffee chains, and entertainment venues, Ymakan understands the challenges faced when it comes to quality ingredients, food costs, wastage and sustainability, along with providing products that will sell fast, with good margins and long shelf lives. We work very closely with our F&B companies to ensure we understand their tastes and preferences, likes and dislikes, company vision, objectives. We aim to save them time which is often wasted on sampling products that are just not right for their planned initiatives, target market or cost centres. We treat each and every customer uniquely and understand that in order for you to gain a competitive edge, we need to help you deliver not only good but excellent unique and outstanding food and beverage offerings.

Ymakan is proudly partnered with

FE AT UR ES / IN S IGHT

THE KITCHEN BUSINESS

AS PART OF A NEW SERIES, THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST WILL FRAME DISCUSSIONS FOR CHEFS, F&B DIRECTORS, OPERATIONS DIRECTORS AND ACADEMIC PROFESSIONALS, TO EDUCATE, INSPIRE AND HIGHLIGHT THE IMPORTANCE OF PROFESSIONAL TRAINING AND SUPPORT WITHIN KITCHENS. THIS MONTH, WE FOCUS ON SOURCING INGREDIENTS, MINIMISING WASTE AND TRAINING TEAMS TO BE EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT. BY SOPHIE VOELZING

• ROLAND EITZINGER, HEAD ACADEMIC – BAKERY, RICHEMONT MASTERBAKER • AMIT JAMES GOMES, EXECUTIVE SOUS CHEF, THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI • CHRISTIANE TRILCK, HEAD ACADEMIC – PASTRY & CHOCOLATE, RICHEMONT MASTERBAKER • YIH NENG LEE, F&B MANAGER, SWISSOTEL AL GHURAIR DUBAI • DOXIS BEKRIS, EXECUTIVE CHEF, RAFFLES DUBAI • NITIN MEHROTRA, EXECUTIVE CHEF, LAPITA DUBAI PARKS AND RESORTS • KHALED DEGNICH, CHEF DE CUISINE, HILTON GARDEN INN RAS AL KHAIMAH • TIM REYNOLDS, DIRECTOR OF HOTEL OPERATIONS, RADISSON BLU HOTEL, DUBAI MEDIA CITY

50 The Pro Chef Middle East

/ Autumn 2018

Tim Reynolds, Director of Hotel Operations, Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City: Through shock cost, IE this is the value of food in a year. Then through support and reward in reduction, sharing best practice and highlighting high wastage areas.

Christiane Trilck, Head Academic – Pastry & Chocolate, Richemont Masterbaker: I strongly believe that an open and trustfully work environment is the base. I like to share cost of ingredients openly with my team to educate them first on the cost of everything they handle on a daily base. In my experience this will make them already more sensitive towards the cost. All my recipes have the actual cost on it, so each and every

Photographs SUPPLIED

THIS SEASON’S SPEAKERS

IN WHAT WAYS DO YOU BELIEVE KITCHEN TEAMS SHOULD BE EDUCATED ON MINIMISING WASTAGE IN THE KITCHEN?

Roland Eitzinger, Head Academic – Bakery, Richemont Masterbaker

Amit James Gomes, Executive Sous Chef, The St. Regis Abu Dhabi

team member can see what it would cost to throw it in the bin. Also, the amount of daily purchase orders have always been a part of my briefing. My second approach has always been handson training with my team. Understanding each ingredient, what does it do in the recipe, why and for what is it in the recipe, what can I replace it with and how can I fix it. So, they learn trouble shooting. What means if there is any problem, or something hasn’t turned out the way they expected it, my team can find most of the time the cause of the problem and due to intensive training, is able to fix certain products instead of throwing them away. Proper training also results in less mistakes during the making and therefore less wastage. My third approach is constant checking and teaching each team member responsibility. It is not enough to just hand out tasks and expect always brilliant results. Every team member has a job to do and is an important gear in a well maintained and running clock.

Yih Neng Lee, F&B Manager, Swissotel Al Ghurair Dubai: Significantly, hotels and restaurants are the main contributors of food wastage in the world. At Swissotel Al Ghurair, we whole heartedly support Accor Hotel’s Planet 21 which is a sustainable development program that aims at offering healthy-balanced, high-quality food and most of all reducing food wastage. We take control of our purchases, establish stock inventory, effectively plan our menu and promotions; and serve portions according to the business. We limit the possibility for waste and error by pre-portioning items. For example, slice turkey and portion it into 4-ounce portions for entrees and 2.5-ounce portions for the deli. Separate the portions with patty paper so that servers can quickly and clearly see one portion. This way you know exactly how many portions you have produced. An added benefit of pre-portioning is that it saves time during busy periods and allows the operation to run more efficiently. The F&B team also tracks and analyses waste in the restaurant on a regular basis and has developed a

Christiane Trilck, Head Academic – Pastry & Chocolate, Richemont Masterbaker

Yih Neng Lee, F&B Manager, Swissotel Al Ghurair Dubai

refrigerator rotation system as well as implementing the FIFO System (First in – First out) where the staff makes sure that perishables are used in a timely manner. We often have productive staff meetings where employees are encouraged to share experiences and new techniques to reduce wastage. We also train our staff every few months and update them on the cost-effective methods as this helps the team to visualize the impact of the changes, and take proactive steps, such as turning off unused equipment or finding ways to decrease food waste.

Nitin Mehrotra, Executive Chef, Lapita Dubai Parks and Resorts: To organise a successful waste management process for an establishment that will reduce it to a minimum and utilise existing waste in the best possible way, you need to do the following; Create a team of responsible people for this job; Track and analyze the waste in the restaurant; Conduct inventory frequently to compare purchase and quantity of garbage; Change the menu to minimise quantity of leftovers; Recycle everything that can be recycled.

WHEN IT COMES TO SOURCING INGREDIENTS, WHICH OPTION IS BEST IN TERMS OF COST EFFECTIVENESS AND QUALITY – FRESH OR FROZEN, AND WHY? Doxis Bekris, Executive Chef, Raffles Dubai: Fresh produce is the ideal and we follow three principles when sourcing fruits and vegetables: Seasonality (for freshness, flavour and cost effective), Ripeness (for freshness and flavour) and Local produce (cost effectiveness and sustainability). The above principles can sometimes be a challenge as you need to appeal to the Dubai clientele and we need to source ingredients that may we not be locally

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE AT UR ES / IN S IGHT

Doxis Bekris, Executive Chef, Raffles Dubai

Nitin Mehrotra, Executive Chef, Lapita Dubai Parks and Resorts

Khaled Degnich, Chef de Cuisine, Hilton Garden Inn Ras Al Khaimah

produced and not in season. Therefore, you can still find strawberries or watermelons in December or even all kind of winter mushrooms in July and August. As a main rule though, we buy goods when they are in season which is not only a more cost-effective solution but when ingredients are the ripest, they bring out the best in flavour, texture and taste. And of course, wherever possible we always give priority to goods that are produced locally from artisans, farmers, milk producers or fisherman working in the Gulf waters.

Roland Eitzinger, Head Academic – Bakery, Richemont Masterbaker: A fresh, premium product will always be the first choice. It may not always be cost effective or practical. Frozen products now have a fixed place in every kitchen – take frozen berries for example: you can get great quality berries year-round and I don’t think anybody would expect you to cook your berry compote for the breakfast buffet from fresh berries!

Amit James Gomes, Executive Sous Chef at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi: We follow a combination of both. Though any chefs would highlight local produce and freshness, we are in a region with limitations and usage of chilled meat, poultry or fish; cannot be denied. As a company, we have identified and contracted suppliers, which would allow us in getting better bargains. We also have designed the menus in our hotel in such a way that we tend to use fresh and seasonal products. This means changing menus seasonally.

Nitin Mehrotra: Relying on frozen food can be cost effective. However, when fresh food is in season and ripe off the vine, there is nothing more delicious. People love to savour the genuine wholesomeness that comes from fresh ingredients. Fresh foods are healthier, taste better, and are visually more alluring on the plate. Restaurants that make the switch to fresher ingredients will reap the rewards not only in doing the right thing for guests’ health, but in the name of flavour. Fresh food tastes better. Period.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Tim Reynolds, Director of Hotel Operations, Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP FIVE BEST PRACTICE METHODS WHEN IT COMES TO STAFF PRODUCTIVITY? Khaled Degnich, Chef de Cuisine, Hilton Garden Inn Ras Al Khaimah: First, set up systems to track and record inventory. Secondly, develop specifications and procedures for ordering and purchasing. Next, develop standards and procedures to efficiently receive deliveries. Develop your menus based on availability and local market. And lastly, share good practice and ideas between teams.

Roland Eitzinger: Demand standards – invest in training and as a return get happy customers, reduced waste. Secondly, trust your staff, delegate but check and verify! Practice your basic and classic techniques (chopping for example). Organise your stores and check your inventory – work with the right suppliers and vendors. Be aware of your flow of work –move things around, look at schedules and vacation plans.

Tim Reynolds: Ensuring the correct tools and equipment are available, set clear expectation, recognise and praise good work, encourage development, listen to and value peoples’ opinions

Yih Neng Lee: Efficient delegation and no micromanagement, trust employees to operate in the style that they are comfortable with to get the job done. Strategise and set realistic goals, define key goals and take into consideration your team’s capacity to execute them. Make sure you have processes in place, to track their progress. Effective communication is one of the keys to working more efficiently is to get a single communication system. Swissotel Al Ghurair implements an open-door policy where we encourage our staff to communicate and discuss issues with each other and the management which in-turn increases productivity.

Encourage a solid work relationship between your staff. Hold meetings where everyone’s opinions, feelings, and suggestions are considered. Build a great team spirit by involving your staff in activities such as charity runs. Participating in team-building events helps each member of your team feel vital and important to the overall functioning of your hotel. Motivate and incentivise the employees as showing appreciation for a positive contribution creates a positive working environment.

IN WHICH WAYS ARE TRAINED CULINARY PROFESSIONALS ABLE TO COST SAVE WHEN SOURCING INGREDIENTS? Amit James Gomes: A proper culinary trained professional will know what to buy, where to buy and when to buy. He or she must not only look at cost of the ingredients however must also look at yielding. In our market in most hotels, the highest cost would lie in proteins and pastry ingredients. There must be a routine check conducted by chefs, cost controllers, and purchasing officers on quality and prices. Once we have all suppliers identified then if we have tackled the recipes right and have trained personal following them then there must not be any concerns.

Christiane Trilck: Trained professionals have a much better understanding of ingredients. More expensive doesn’t mean it is the best, and cheapest doesn’t mean it is the worst ingredient. You need to properly understand the ingredient, arable land, seasons, history of the products, growing, harvesting and production methods etc. Then you can make much more appropriate decisions when sourcing ingredients. You can understand why cost are high or low. You can check for alternatives with lower cost without jeopardising the quality because you understand the process. Khaled Degnich: Trained chefs are the key to the success of a kitchen and most certainly to cost savings. The knowledge of the product helps chef to make the right decisions and minimise wastage, given their knowledge for using one ingredient in many, many ways within the non-perishable timeframe. Doxis Bekris: We source products from different suppliers selling the same items. Simply put, having all your eggs in one basket is not smart. If one supplier increases the selling price of a product, we can always reach out to another offering it a better price and it will not affect our food cost or quality. We work with strict guidelines on standard recipes

that need to be followed with detail. We prepare food portions and use appropriate portion control equipment like measuring spoons, bowls, scales etc. We keep a regular weekly inventory of our overall stock to ensure that we do not only run out of goods but to also make sure we do not overstock versus our forecasted expected business. Last but not least we do change our menus seasonally after we evaluate our guest feedback. By using ingredients which are in season, they are reasonably priced and therefore our profit margins are higher and costs lower.

MINIMISING WASTE DOXIS BEKRIS, EXECUTIVE CHEF, RAFFLES DUBAI TELLS OF HIS WASTE SAVING METHODS...

There are many ways of informing and educating chefs on the subject of food waste. At Raffles Dubai, I have taught the team to follow certain methods to reduce as much food waste possible in our various kitchens:

We limit our purchases by shopping smartly with small quantities. We buy goods daily and this help us not to overstock our chillers, freezers or dry store and therefore we only buy and keep what we really need for our operation, retaining the smallest possible stock needed for emergency purposes.

We try to be as practical as possible, we put our creativity to work when designing seasonal menus. We actually create 50% percent of the menu dishes and once its set, we create the rest of the dishes based on the same ingredients changing the texture, presentations and flavours.

When we buy long shelf life products we make sure that “best before” or “expiry date” give us a good 4-6 months lead time, with enough time to use the products before they become inedible.

We design daily specials which work extremely well in many ways. For example, with excess raw ingredients such fish, chicken, lamb or beef trimmings, potatoes, fruit peels, carrots and other root vegetable etc. we create sustainable daily dishes that a very creative and flavoursome at the same time. It also gives our chefs the freedom to be creative and think out of the box.

We are currently looking into bringing technology in to our kitchens by using new tech platforms to help us understand better where we have the most food wastage and how to tackle the issue and help us save money in the long run as well as contribute positively to the environment.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / PLAT E U P

DIEGO SANCHEZ HEAD CHEF, LIMA DUBAI

ON MENUS ES CURRENTLY THE BEST DISH BAI – AS DU S ACROSS AT RESTAURANT LVES SE EM S TH CHOSEN BY CHEF

GREGOIRE BERGER

CHEF DE CUISINE, OSSIANO, ATLANTIS, THE PALM DUBAI

Foie Gras Berries – found in the seven-course set menu for AED 940 per person.

Tell us about the dish… Questions like these are always so tricky to answer, I always find that my latest creation is my favourite! Nevertheless, if I had to pick from Ossiano’s set menu it would easily be the Foie Gras Berries, a roasted parfait, cassis and berry gel. This dish has a strong visual impact, it looks like a dessert but it’s actually a starter dish. It is composed of a toasted squid ink bread, a mousse of blackcurrant, roasted parfait and a berry “pate de fruit” in the middle, coated with a berry glaze. On the top, there is a hibiscus gel, sponge cake and a wheat toast that reminds of the taste of toasted bread. It definitely has a wow factor, most guests cannot imagine that this kind of visual is on their table, it’s a total surprise.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? Beyond the fact that it is beautiful to look at, the taste is truly what makes this dish. The culinary experience is full of surprises and emotions, the juxtaposition between the crunchiness, the softness and the creaminess of the foie gras. Mixed with the acidity of the blackcurrant…contrast is the master word for this composition.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? We source our foie gras from France, and the berries are sourced from various parts of the world depending on the season. The berries mostly come from Australia and The Netherlands from our supplier, Fresh Express.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at LIMA? My favourite dish is the Lobster Tiradito, which is priced at AED 104.

Tell us about the dish… LIMA has just launched its new menu that I have many favourites from, but the winner is the Lobster Tiradito. It is one of our signature dishes and rather than changing it or creating new dish, we have seen an evolution of the dish to make it even better than before. I think it defines a lot of what we want to do in Lima; use excellent techniques to give the best results, texture and flavour.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? We start when we receive our lobster – in order to make our Tiradito we cook sous vide which provides the perfect texture. The celery root is then cooked in a vacuum and steamed to get a strong celery flavour. Then the black crumble is prepared to create a black avocado before topped with a sauce based with rocoto chili before finally topped with aromatic truffle oil. There is a lot of work and preparation that goes into this plate – the mushroom is dehydrated for 12 hours beforehand.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? Lima sources only the highest quality ingredients from around the world. Our lobster is flown in from Canada whilst our rocoto chili comes from Peru and our Avocado is sourced from either Mexico or Peru depending on the market and quality at the time. The red onion and mushrooms are flown in from Italy.

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photography SUPPLIED

What’s your favourite dish on Ossiano’s menu?

ALEX STUMPF

EXECUTIVE CHEF AND CO-OWNER, BB SOCIAL DINING

FRANCO BLOISI

EXECUTIVE CHEF, CRAZY FISH

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at BB? My favourite dish is the harissa lamb skewers, priced at AED 75 (+DIFC fee).

Tell us about the dish… Our harissa lamb skewers exemplify everything BB is about. A superior product – Iberico lamb from Spain – prepared in a manner to hit all the taste buds.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? A combination of simplicity and the right cooking technique. We use lamb belly which is marinated for six hours in a harissa spice, then braised for 12 hours, pressed and cut in to cubes to be able to skewer it. To make use of the well marbled meat, we grill it over the Robata (BBQ) so the fat starts to caramelise, developing a unique flavour. So soft and juicy to eat, you will never forget it. It’s one of our best-selling dishes.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The lamb, Agnei Ibérico, comes from a well-known Spanish company in Zargoza. It’s a pure-breed Pyrenean sheep, Rasa Aragonesa, that is called Iberico because it has the same qualities and characteristics as the well-known Iberian pork. Agnei Iberico is also certified and protected by Spanish law.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at Crazy Fish? Homemade tagliolini with Sicily langoustine, pan-fried with garlic, chili, evo, basil and a crispy crumble bread mixed with paprika and herbs, plus mint – also known as the ‘Tagliolini alla Freeman’, which is priced at AED 110. Tell us about the dish… I used to prepare this dish with cherry tomatoes, but one night, Morgan Freeman was dining and asked me to add mint, so I added it and removed the tomatoes that would have masked the minty taste. I also added a bit of garlic and chili, but felt something was still missing, so I decided to add some crispy bread in the pan cooked with sweet paprika. And since then this dish has been known as the ‘Tagliolini alla Freeman’. What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? The passion that I put in all of my plates, plus the fresh ingredients. Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The langoustines are from Mazara del Vallo and are the main ingredient, they have to be fresh and from the Mediterranean Sea. The pasta has to be homemade and made with love!

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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O N T H E PA S S / P L ATE UP

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What’s your favourite dish on the menu at folly? It would have to be the Devon fresh crab with basil bisque and crispy seaweed, priced at AED 85.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? It’s a very simple dish using fresh ingredients. Fresh white crab meat simply seasoned with a little salt and lemon juice and a small amount of mayonnaise. The crab bisque is made with local blue spinners crabs and then infused with fresh basil and creme fraiche just before service each night.

NICK ALVIS

CHEF AND PARTNER, FOLLY BY NICK & SCOTT

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at folly? The lamb saddle with whipped pine nuts and salsa, priced at AED 125. What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? The Bultarra lamb is the best that we have tasted here in Dubai and using the saddle is also a small step away from the norm as most chefs prefer to

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish?

use the best end/rack of lamb. I never get bored of dressing the lamb dish in folly and it has remained a top selling dish since we opened, withstanding three full menu changes.

The white crab meat comes from the Devon on the south coast of the UK, and we use local crabs from the market here in Dubai for the bisque too.

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The Bultarra saltbush lamb comes from the Australian outback.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / PLAT E U P

FRANCESCO PESCATORE

HEAD CHEF, CAVALLI RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

LUIS EZQUETA FIGUEROA

EXECUTIVE CHEF, BEEFBAR

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at Cavalli? The Beef fillet Rossini.

Tell us about the dish… My favourite dish on the menu is the beef, because the flavour is like nothing else. The succulent meat, delicious juices and presentation make it one of the most popular on the menu.

What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? The dish is an iconic dish because of the history behind it. This dish was ‘invented’ by Gioacchino Rossini (Italian composer) roughly around 1830. This dish has a very warm combination of flavours because it contains an escalope of foie gras, beef filet medallion (cooked in butter), sautéed spinach, black truffle and red wine sauce. There’s flavour in every bite!

Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? For the beef we use grade 5 wagyu, grain-fed beef. The truffle comes from Italy and depends on the season, it’s sometimes a long search to find the right quality. All our ingredients come mostly from Italy and some of the items from France. We are very careful in the selection to give the best dishes, experience and taste in Dubai.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu at Beefbar? Kobe beef shawarma, homemade flatbread and tahini, priced at AED 65. Tell us about the dish… This dish properly represents the Beefbar style, it’s a token dish from the traditional recipe book that’s been given a twist to fit the Beefbar concept. We marinate the meat in a traditional way using premium cuts of meat such as black angus and the more exclusive Kobe beef. We cook the flat bread a la minute in the tandoori oven and serve to the costumer fresh from the oven. What makes this dish such a stand-out dish? Without a doubt the elaboration with the authentic Kobe meat. Beefbar is one of the only places in the region to serve certified Japanese Kobe Beef. Where do you source the ingredients from for this dish? The Kobe is specially sourced for us in the halal way from Japan and sent to us, which normally takes around three weeks from ordering to receiving the animal.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

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O N T H E PA S S / CH E F ' S TAL K

THE EVOLUTION OF

TRÈSIND

As the chef who oversees and heads two of Dubai’s leading Indian restaurants Trèsind and Carnival by Trèsind under the Passion Group umbrella, Himanshu Saini is a chef spearheading the local evolution of Indian cuisine. In a one-to-one with The Pro Chef Middle East, he talks progression and trends in the Indian kitchen, the re-launch of Trèsind, the opening of Tresind Studio and shares a selection of his latest recipes.

recipes HIMANSHU SAINI Interview SOPHIE VOELZING Photography MAKSYM PORIECHKIN

ell us about your journey so far as a chef – how did you get started in the kitchen?

Growing up, we used to live in a joint family in Delhi, where I saw my aunts and mother cook three meals a day for almost 25 people every day, without a day off, and each time not only did they manage to make delicious food, what amused me most was that every time the flavours of the dishes were consistent. This was a unique experience as the entire family used to sit together simply enjoying the vast spread prepared by the ladies of the house over personal and professional conversations. Interestingly my journey into hospitality wasn’t by choice, but out of necessity. Contrary to popular belief, I wasn’t an A grade student, so the usual professions popular and most sought after in India those days (medicine, engineering or IT) were not something I aspired for. Hospitality in those days wasn’t considered at the top of anyone’s priority and not something that would build a long-standing career. With no choice at hand and not wanting to do a simple graduation course, I decided to give the entrance for my bachelor’s in culinary studies. As luck would have it, and to my utter surprise, I got through! With a little interest in kitchen, which developed as a child, I discovered my passion for cooking over a period of the culinary course. After college, I did an 18 months training program at Indian Accent in Delhi under the mentorship of Chef Manish Mehrotra. Thus began my journey in the field of hospitality. I continued working at Indian Accent for the next five years, post which I opened two more modern Indian restaurant concepts in Delhi and Mumbai. Along the way I also won the all-India Chef’s competition conducted by Ms. Rohini Dey in search of her next Chef, which gave me the opportunity to work at Vermillion, New York for a few months before I moved to Dubai to commence the journey with Passion Group and build dining concepts such as Trèsind and Carnival by Trèsind.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / CHEF ' S TALK

Tresind recently underwent an extensive refurbishment, tell us about the interior changes and why they were made… We, as an organisation, strongly belief in the adage that change is the only constant. Thus, after having served guests for over four years, Trèsind Dubai went under a major revamp of its menus along with a complete changeover of its interiors in April, 2018. After almost three months long renovation, we introduced guests to The Evolution of Trèsind, Dubai which offers three experiences comprising of the Trèsind Lounge, Trèsind Restaurant and the recently launched Trèsind Studio, under one roof, offering a unique culinary affair. Presenting freshness of space, the new look is a combination of warm blues and vibrant creams and classy whites to give the restaurant a sense of warmth and space, while offering enough privacy while dining. Done in an efficient manner, the restaurant offers a luxurious dining experience without taking away from the delectable and dramatic dining experience, with lighting playing an essential component in the overall design.

How has the menu changed for the re-opening? The new Trèsind experience not just assures guests of a higher level of culinary excellence and hospitality, but will also boast of a rare experience of the Trèsind Studio. Complimenting the elevation of space design, the dynamic, young team of Chefs, have worked tirelessly over the past eightnine months to skillfully craft a new culinary experience that engages all the senses. Inspired by, and credited with reviving, the unique concept of guéridon service incorporated with some elements of molecular gastronomy (where it truly adds

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

value), the menu showcases traditional dishes from the sub-continent presented with a modernistic approach. We have emphasized considerably on the concept of guéridon service, where many a simple as well as complex dishes are finished on the table-side, creating an interactive dining and immersive experience. Embracing various regional culinary influences that have woven its way into the cuisine, the new menu is sophisticated, imaginative and highly visual. Ideations like modernist chaat trolley, wild mushroom chai, avocado galouti kebab, the popular kosha mangsho, cedar-wood smoked tandoori chicken, chicken khurchan and birbal ki khichdi, among many others, not only reflect the uniqueness of its food but also give a refreshing experience of this legendary cuisine to our discerning guests. The new menu is inspired by the rustic traditional Indian cuisine, with our aim to go back to our roots, while elevating and bringing the cuisine into the 2020’s, from its erstwhile avataar.

Where do you source ingredients from for Tresind and what suppliers do you use to get them? We use only the highest quality ingredients in the kitchen across all our restaurants. With Dubai being an international hub and centerpoint between the East and West, the finest ingredients and produce are at our disposal, but many ingredients are handpicked and sourced from India to maintain the flavour profile of many of our dishes.

Tresind is known for its creativity. Where do you look to for culinary inspiration when creating new dishes? Culinary inspirations at Tresind are not just restricted to culinary world, we take inspiration from life experiences, Indian culture and traditions, artists, magazines and books. Inspiration can be taken from anything or everything in life depends how one can perceive what they see it.

In your option, what’s the most innovative dish on the menu at Tresind and why? Wagyu satay, peanut salan, chili and eggplant pickle. Satay is an Indonesian dish but at Trèsind we make it with Indian flavours.

Salan is groundnut curry made with chili and eggplant and it is usually served with Biryani. Instead of serving peanut sauce with satay, we serve salan curry, which has a dominant peanut flavour. While skewering the satay we roll burnt chili and eggplant pickle with the wagyu to complete the infusion, thereby cohesively bringing together different elements to create a single dish offering traditional Indian flavours.

What do you predict as the next big trend in Indian cooking? One of the biggest trends taking shape in Indian food now, with us incorporating at our restaurants as well, is that of artisanal butchery. Unlike before, where restaurants used simple curry cuts for most of the preparations in Indian food, we work with specific cuts like ossobuco (or osso buco) and are now getting meat tailor cut as per preference of the chefs and requirement of the dishes. Another key trend which a few have already started work on, is using sustainable ingredients which are not just healthy, protecting biodiversity taking in consideration natural resources, but also reduce impact and contribution to global warming. Another interesting trend, that actually has been prominent mostly across European cuisine and regions but is taking shape and in its formative years in regard to Indian food, is farm to table and foraging. While Indian food has always used the freshest of ingredients and spices owing to their presence locally within the geography of India, the opportunities available in Western countries has always curtailed for concepts like foraging and farm to table to take shape in Indian food. Having said that, we are looking at this concept becoming extremely prominent and prevalent even in India food in times to come. Another very interesting and personally intriguing trend, which seems to be coming up is that of vegan Indian food.

Can we expect to hear any other new and exciting happenings from the Tresind brand in the coming future? Of course. Like I mentioned earlier, “change is the only constant” and that’s at the very core of our beliefs at Passion Group. One of the most exciting news is that we are in the process of taking Trèsind brand global, with its first stop being our homeland – India. In terms of other news, though still in works and under wraps, is that we are in the process of launching our third dining concept, which while will have some elements of Indian food; its menu will be primarily global and very innovative.

RECIPES BY

CHEF HIMANSHU SAINI

Waqyu Satay, peanut salan, burnt chili & eggplant pickle 500g wagyu tenderloin (cut into thin slices) 200g diced eggplant 100g jalapeno green chili 50g oyster sauce 50ml dark soy sauce 70g sweet soy sauce 20ml vinegar 20ml red chili oil 10ml sesame oil 100ml oil 100ml water 50g salt 50g black pepper 20g chicken seasoning powder 100g peanut butter 30g cashewnut 100g white sesame 50g peanut skinless 5g fried peanut 50g dry coconut 5g curry leaves 10g cumin 50g coriander seeds 50g tamarind (pulp) 30g ginger 50g garlic 80g red onion 10g turmeric powder 15g red chili powder

For the eggplant pickle

1. In a bowl mix sweet soy, dark soy and water along with mirin and vinegar. 2. Mix well and finish it with salt, chicken broth and heat the syrup until it boils, then add the sesame and the red chili oil. 3. Allow it to cool. 4. Deep fry the batons of eggplant till it turns soft and then quickly add it to the pickling syrup. 5. Leave it for a while till it retains the entire flavour.

For the peanut salan

1. Heat a pan and dry roast white sesame, peanut skinless, coriander seeds, cashew nut and dry coconut along with curry leaves, ginger and garlic.

4 portions

2. Allow the dry roast ingredients to cool down, till then heat a pan and add oil, sautĂŠ onion with ginger and garlic. Add the rurmeric powder and sautĂŠ for 5 minutes. 3. In a blender add the spice mix, fried onions, ginger and garlic. Add a little water and blitz to a thick fine paste. Set aside. 4. In a heavy bottom nonstick sauce pan heat the remaining oil on medium heat, add the ground paste and fry on a low heat for 5-7 minutes, make sure to stir well through the cooking process. Now add the chili and turmeric powder and fry for a further 4 minutes, add the peanut butter paste and cook till the oil separates. Add the tamarind pulp and cook well.

skin, rinse with cold water. 3. De-seed the chilly and cut into half. 4. Wrap the slice of beef with chilly and eggplant to make a satay. 5. Heat a pan and add little oil, evenly cook the beef satay from both sides. 6. Add a little pickling syrup while cooking and reduce to make a thick sauce.

For plating

1. For plating, pour the salan in middle of the plate, splash it with a spoon. 2. Place the satay in the middle, garnish with fried, crushed peanut. 3. Drizzle chilli oil and serve.

For the beef satay

1. Marinate the slices of wagyu with oyster sauce, salt and pepper. 2. Burn the jalapeno chili and take off the

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / CHEF ' S TALK

Kadai lobster, snow peas, asparagus and peppers 800g Canadian lobster 500g red onion, chopped 300g tomato, chopped 70g tomato paste 50g snowpeas 20g green pepper 20g red pepper 50g green asparagus 5g coriander seeds, roasted 5g cumin seeds, 5g black pepper 5g dry red chili 50g ginger

4 portions

70g garlic 10g green chili paste 50g fresh coriander 100ml fresh cream 50g oyster sauce 20g turmeric powder 40g red chili powder 20g garam masala 1 lobster shell 50g butter 500g tempura batter 1 Kadai for plating

For the lobster

4. Add the Kadai Masala (roasted coriander seeds, cumin, black pepper, dry red chili).

1. Blanch the lobster and put them in cold water. 2. De-Shell the lobster and cut into even pieces.

For plating

For the Kadai gravy

1. Heat oil in a pan; add onion, tomatoes and sautĂŠ until brown. 2. Add the turmeric powder, red chili powder, salt and cook it until it leaves its oil. 3. Then add the tomato paste and cook for some more time finish the gravy with fresh cream.

1. Fry the pieces of lobster in tempura batter, until crisp. 2. Add the pieces of fried Lobster to the gravy and toss it gently. 3. Heat a pan and add little butter, toss the snow peas, green asparagus and peppers. 4. Place the pieces of lobster in the shell and garnish it with butter tossed snow peas, asparagus and peppers. Serve hot.

1. Soak the Morels in Warm water for 25-30 minutes, Drain for a while and pat dry. 2. Finely chop the button mushrooms and sautĂŠ till all the excess water is dried, add chili flakes, salt and cumin powder and finish with chopped coriander. Mix the processed cheese. 3. Stuff the mixture in morels. 4. Mix the hung curd, fresh cream, green chili paste and cashew paste and apply the same marination on the morels and slightly roast in the clay oven for 5 minutes. 5.Heat a pan, sautĂŠ chopped onion till it gets light brown then add chopped garlic, add cumin powder and garam masala to it along with the turmeric powder. 6. When the masala cooks add fresh cream and allow it to cook on a slow flame, when the gravy thickens up add the processed cheese and finish adding salt along with truffle oil.

Morel lababdar, truffle oil tadka, lotus stem crisp 12 dried morels 100g grated processed cheese 100g button mushrooms, chopped 50g Indian lotus stems 2 green asparagus stems 10g chili flakes

10g chat masala 5g cumin powder 250g onion, chopped 30g ginger, chopped 50g garlic, chopped 40g coriander, chopped 5g green chili paste 200ml fresh cream

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4 portions 100g hung curd 50g cashew nut 20g turmeric powder 10g red chili powder 10g garam masala 5ml truffle oil 50ml oil 1 Sakura mix 10g salt

For plating

1. Cut the Head of the Asparagus and blanch in hot water and refresh with ice cold water. 2. Take the lotus stem and place it horizontal on the gravity slicer to take out thin slices and soak in cold water. 3. Deep fry the Slices of lotus stem and sprinkle with some salt, red chili powder. 4. Alternately arrange morel and the asparagus one by one and plate it up, pour the sauce and in the end arrange the lotus stem crisp which is deep fried.

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O N THE PASS / CHEF ' S TALK

A PA S S I O N F O R

PA ST RY Executive Pastry Chef Abel Vieilleville of Address Boulevard, Dubai, talks of return to tradition in the pastry kitchen, the rise of more nutritious and less artificial cakes, the influence of Instagram on dessert demands, and shares a few of his recipes to prepare for the nearing festive season. Interview SOPHIE VOELZING Recipes ABEL VIEILLEVILLE Photography MAKSYM PORIECHKIN

ell us a little bit about your role…

As an Executive Pastry Chef, I am responsible for developing and creating dessert menus and signature recipes for the hotel’s restaurants, lounge, rooms and events. I manage and oversee the creative and quality aspects of all pastries, desserts, cakes and breads served in The Lobby of Address Boulevard and throughout the hotel. Moreover, I am involved in the designing and production of novelty cakes, bread and pastries for VIP guests and for special occasions including weddings, gala dinners, annual ceremonies, Ramadan Iftars and Suhoors, and fairs, and catering for events outside the hotel. Other responsibilities include recruitment and training of junior pastry chefs, maintaining an inventory of ingredients and equipment while striving to achieve costefficiency across the pastry department.

Where did you learn your pastry skills? My parents ran a restaurant business in the South of France, so I grew up in the hospitality environment, serving customers. I was always passionate about food and it played a huge role in deciding my future career. Later I worked under the wings of several popular Michelin star chefs in France and London where I improved my skills and acquired knowledge about industry trends.

Over the years, how have you seen the patisserie market evolve? In the recent years, pastry chefs have become very health-conscious, using

66 The Pro Chef Middle East

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organic and artisan products. Nowadays, desserts tend to be less artificial, they are lighter and more nutritious. The use of vegetables, grains and cereals is now on the increase; I have seen new dessert and chocolate launches containing purple sweet potato, beetroot, pumpkin, edamame, quinoa, granola, rye, muesli and popcorn.

In terms of trends in pastry, what are you witnessing the consumer of today wanting when they visit the hotel? Yes, I have witnessed several new trends in our industry. For example, the manufacturers of confectionary and chocolate are experimenting with flavours, both savoury and sweet, and we are seeing more elaborate variations – products with citrus and exotic flavours, seeds and nuts, peppers, spices such as thyme or basil, smoked or pink salt, charcoal and various flavours such as wasabi, crème brulee, crème caramel, tiramisu and amaretto. Also, gaining customer’s attention is now a top priority in this age of Instagram. Therefore, the trend today is back to colourful mirror glazes as the final finish for cakes, eclairs and individual petits gateaux. Another catchy element are interesting shapes of the desserts. Pastry chefs around the globe are now using new moulds imitating fruits and vegetables such as mango, piquillo pepper, lime, tangerines, asparagus, tomato and olives.

It’s been said that there’s a strong return to traditional when it comes to pastry. Would you agree with this? I think chefs have come to a realisation

that classics are still and will remain the backbone of the pastry industry. Shiny glaze is beautiful but tasteless, funky moulds are interesting but lacks creativity. Traditional recipes have not yet been fully explored. Everything needs to have a balance and one must offer both the choices to the customers – contemporary creations and classic desserts for them to pick.

When hiring your team at the bakery, which four main qualities did you look for from the pastry chefs and bakers? Politeness, attitude towards work, creativity, and willingness.

For pastry chefs just starting out in the industry, what word of advice would you offer to them for progressing in the pastry industry? Learn and practice the basics before getting into intricate designing part of things. One should taste and train their palate to understand the use of various ingredients.

Moving into 2018, which pastries do you think will be most ‘on trend’. Are you witnessing the comeback of any patisserie in particular? Silicon moulds are now quite popular and available in a wide range of forms and shapes allowing pastry chefs to create interesting features on the desserts. Use of exotic and exclusive ingredients is also gaining interest.

Get to know chef Abel Where is your favourite Patisserie shop in the world? Café Pushkin in Moscow, Russia What is your preferred chocolate brand? I use a mix of several brands for creating different delicacies. Who is your culinary inspiration when it comes to pastry? Pascal Molines have been a source of inspiration for many years What’s your all-time favourite pastry to eat? I’m a chocolate lover – a large slice of gooey chocolate sponge cake is my go-to! What’s your favourite piece of bakery equipment and brand? Salva Deck oven.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / CHEF ' S TALK

RECIPES BY

CHEF ABEL VIEILLEVILLE

Santaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite Gianduja mousse:

Cream 255g, glucose 233gr, inverted sugar 17gr, milk chocolate 150gr, hazelnut pralin 200gr, cream 450gr, gelatin 15gr METHOD: Bring to boil the cream, glucose and the inverted sugar add the gelatin and pour onto the milk chocolate and hazelnut praline, add the remaining cream and leave it to rest for 12 hours chilled before whipping it.

Pistachio sponge:

Almond paste 810gr, pistachio paste 150gr, whole egg 940gr, flour T45 180gr, 12gr baking powder, butter 100gr.

attachment. Once reached a fluffy texture fold the flour previously sieved with the baking powder then add the melted butter.

Apricot compote:

Apricot puree 270gr, sugar 50gr, frozen apricot 320gr, gelatin 3gr, 1 vanilla bean. METHOD: Place the apricot puree, the sugar, the whole frozen apricot and the vanilla bean in the oven for 45mn at a temperature of 170c. Once cooked add the gelatin.

Pecan crunch:

Pecan praline 150gr, feuillantine 100gr, milk chocolate 50gr. METHOD: Warm up the almond paste then place it in a mixing bowl with the pistachio paste and add the tempered eggs one after the other while beating it with the paddle

68 The Pro Chef Middle East

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METHOD: Melt the milk chocolate then add the rest of the ingredient.

A cold winter Lemon sponge:

METHOD: Bring the mandarin puree and the sugar to a temperature of 40c, add the pectin bring the mix to the boil and then add the gelatin.

METHOD: Mix all the ingredients together then add the black butter.

White chocolate ganache:

Almond powder 250gr, icing sugar 500gr, flour T45 166gr, egg white 466gr, black butter266gr, 2 lemon zest.

Honey/nougat mousse:

Acacia honey 100gr, egg white 60gr, cream 300gr, gelatin 20gr, confit lemon 10gr, confit orange 10gr. METHOD: Heat up the honey until 120c pour into the whipped egg white and proceed has a meringue, add the gelatin the confit lemon and the orange, finally fold the whipped cream into the mix.

Mandarin jelly:

Mandarin puree 500gr, sugar 50gr, pectin 10gr, gelatin 9gr

Cream 300gr, trimolin 32gr, glucose 32gr, white chocolate 432gr, cream 800gr, gelatin 18gr, 1 lemon zest METHOD: Bring to boil the cream, glucose, and the inverted sugar add the gelatin and pour onto the white chocolate, add the remaining cream and the lemon zest then live it to rest for 12 hours chilled before whipping it.

Roasted sesame crunch:

Sesame praline 150gr, feuillantine 100gr, milk chocolate 50gr. METHOD: Melt the milk chocolate then add the rest of the ingredient.

Chocolate by storm Chocolate sponge:

Egg yolk 120gr, whole eggs 566gr, |sugar 500, egg white 333gr, sugar 60gr, flour T45 300gr, cocoa 33gr, 72% chocolate 60gr. METHOD: Beat the egg yolks, whole eggs and sugar until a white and fluffy compound. Separately whip the egg white and the sugar to a hard peak then fold the flour and the cocoa powder previously sieved. At last add the melted chocolate.

Vanilla brulee:

Egg yolks 160gr, cream 300gr, sugar 100gr, vanilla Â˝ pod, milk 150gr. METHOD: Mix all the ingredients together and bake the mix in the oven at 130c.(time will varies based on the mold size).

Hazelnut dacquoise:

Hazelnut powder 340gr, icing sugar 400gr, flour T45 115gr, sugar 200gr, egg

white powder 20gr, egg white 560gr, toasted and crushed hazelnut 100gr. METHOD: Whip the fresh egg white with the egg white powder, once it has reached a firm peak add the sugar and then fold into the hazelnut powder the icing sugar and the flour previously sieved. Spread evenly on the tray the crushed hazelnut.

Chocolate mousse:

61% chocolate 350gr, milk 250gr, cream 500gr, gelatin 12gr METHOD: Bring the milk to the boil, pour it onto the chocolate and add the gelatin. Once the mix cool down fold the cream.

Hazelnut crunch:

Hazelnut praline 150gr, feuillantine 100gr, milk chocolate 50gr. METHOD: Melt the milk chocolate then add the rest of the ingredient.

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LE I SUR E / EV EN T LO O K - B ACK

MEET THE FINALISTS

The inaugural Richemont Masterbaker Pastry & Baking Championship 2018 made its much-anticipated debut at Richemont Masterbaker’s state-of-the-art training facility in Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai on September 4 and 5, 2018. During the ‘Live Heats’, 24 pastry and baking professionals went head-to-head in the kitchen to be in with a chance of winning an all-expenses paid trip to Switzerland and the title of ‘Richemont Masterbaker Pastry or Baking Champion 2018’

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

Text by Sophie Voelzing | Photographs by Maksym Porieckin & Charls Thomas

THE LIVE HEATS

he first-ever Richemont Masterbaker Pastry & Baking Championship 2018 launched on September 4 and 5 – presenting 24 of Dubai’s finest pastry and baking professionals with a once in a lifetime opportunity to raise their profile in the UAE and international food scene. Over the course of the two-day ‘Live Heats’, 12 pastry chefs and 12 bakers came together at Richemont Masterbaker’s training facility in Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai to compete and showcase a multitude of technical, creative and artistic skills within the pastry and baking arena. To qualify for this round, locally-based chefs had to complete and pass an online knowledge and skills test, which was timed and designed to test key technical knowledge required in the fields of pastry and baking. Those chefs that scored the highest, secured a place in the Live Heats. During the Live Heats, the 24 chefs were given a range of challenging modules to complete over the two-day period and were provided with the finest pastry and baking ingredients sourced from top global brands including Le Saffre, Felchlin Chocolate, Schapfenmühle, and Candia.

To ensure fairness, the competition was rigorously judged by an esteemed panel of industry experts. The bakery panel of judges comprised Amaury Tremblay of Spinneys Bakery, Izu Ani of Izu Bakery Dubai, and Jurgen Ellenbeck of Bake n' Cake, while the pastry panel of judges featured Emanuele Saracino from The Ritz Carlton DIFC, Abel Vieilleville of Address Boulevard, and Bernard Charles from Bateel. Setting this competition aside from others, professional judges scored each competitor on a wide-range of strict criteria based on areas such as recipe development, preparation, skills and techniques used, plus final presentation, taste and more. After the heated cook-off, competitors were then given one-to-one feedback with the judging panel, to promote learning, understanding and highlight ways to improve and further succeed within the pastry and baking industries. After a careful consideration, four finalists were selected each from both the Pastry and Baking categories (see the eight successful finalists below). These eight finalists returned to Richemont Masterbaker in JLT on October 7 and 8, where they went head-to-head in the final

round. The two champions will be revealed at The Pro Chef Middle East Awards on October 29 during a glittering gala dinner at The Habtoor Grande Resort & Spa. The prize? A once in a lifetime return trip to Switzerland where the Baking Champion will receive an all-expenses-paid course at Richemont Centre of Excellence School in Lucerne, and the Pastry Champion will receive all-expenses-paid course at Felchlin's Condirama in Schweuz, Switzerland, including travel and accommodation. Commenting on the competition’s launch success, Bakery Chef Joseph Casapao said: “It was a privilege to be a part of the prestigious Richemont Masterbaker competition. It was my first time participating in a competition, and I’m so happy I did and enjoyed it very much. I met some talented chefs in the industry, I learned a lot of new things, ideas, and was able to experience the amazing facilities of Richemont”. The Pro Chef Middle East would like to thank all 24 chefs who participated in the inaugural Richemont Masterbaker Pastry & Baking Championship 2018. We wish all eight finalists the best of luck!

PASTRY FINALISTS

Syarif Purawinata DUKES Dubai

Keegan Perreira Grosvenor House

Vimal Nair

Anantara the Palm Dubai

Raghava Poojari Maison de Juliette

BAKING FINALISTS

Habibullah Khan Anantara the Palm Dubai

Jacob Ebba DUKES Dubai

Augustine James Jumeirah Etihad Towers

Ibrahim Alzaabi Fairmont Dubai

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LE I SUR E / EV EN T LO O K - B ACK

PASTRY JUDGES

Emanuele Saracino

Bernard Charles

Abel Vieilleville

The Ritz Carlton DIFC

Bateel

Address Boulevard

BAKING JUDGES

Amaury Tremblay

Jurgen Ellenbeck

Izu Ani

Spinneys Bakery

Bake n' Cake

Izu Bakery Dubai

WITH THANKS TOâ&#x20AC;¦

EVENT PARTNERS

PRIZE PARTNERS

SUPPORTED BY

OFFICIAL PUBLICATION

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

ORGANISER

richemont-masterbaker.com

Richemont Masterbaker Centre of Excellence Bakery & Pastry

richemontmasterbaker

Richemont Masterbaker

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

L E ISU R E / E V ENT P RE VI E W

SAVE THE DATE:

THE SPECIALTY FOOD FESTIVAL SEAFEX YUMMEX MIDDLE EAST

Photographs SUPPLIED

Mark your calendars: Dubai World Trade Centre’s trio of food shows - The Specialty Food Festival, SEAFEX and yummex Middle East – will run from October 30 to November 1, 2018

ubai World Trade Centre’s (DWTC) annual trio of niche food shows, The Speciality Food Festival, SEAFEX Middle East and yummex Middle East cater to three distinct B2B trade platforms, and this year will run from October 30 – November 1, 2018. This year, innovation, product upscaling, health and provenance certification are leading regional trends expected to drive consumer purchases among the USD53.1 billion worth of food imports Gulf countries are expected to make by 2020 – a prediction made by Euromonitor International, the official knowledge partner of the shows. With the Middle East and African snacks industry now growing about 5 per cent a year, according to Euromonitor International, yummex Middle East – the region’s leading trade fair for sweets and snacks – will be a test-bed of taste for a market where locally-produced brands go head-to-head with global majors. Leading the charge for those homegrown brands at the three-day show will be UAE-

Autumn 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LE I SUR E / EV EN T PR EV I EW

based exhibitor BMB (Baklawa Made Better), one of the most recognised confectionary and snacking companies in the MENA region. The Specialty Food Festival is a showcase of innovation across six product streams from artisan and gourmet, organic and fresh, fair trade and ethnic, bakery and cereals, nuts, seeds and dried fruits as well as specialty beverages. The visitor experience promises to be as thought-provoking and engaging as the products on offer. SEAFEX, the professional seafood event, will be heavily focused on sustainable resources and providence. Norwegian exhibitor Seafood from Norway is a collective mark for Norwegian Seafood products. The association says Norwegian seafood is ‘unique because it not only originates from cold, clear waters, but also utilises several generations of experience and modern knowledge and technology and is harvested and farmed in a sustainable manner’. It is responsible for several million Norwegian seafood meals all over the world daily. At SEAFEX 2018, Seafood from Norway will be presented by Norwegian seafood exporters, together with Norwegian Seafood Council, representing a wide range of species, such as salmon, shellfish, whitefish and pelagic. Taiwan’s Ammon International is also

The Pro Chef Middle East / Autumn 2018

meeting demand for a range of alternative species including Mahi, Wahoo, Black pomfret and Unagi Kabayakin. Sourced from top seafood producing countries, the fish are reared following the strictest well water testing control methods to ensure no artificial genes or hormones are present. “Together these three shows cast a brilliant spotlight on how tastes and consumer expectations are changing throughout the region to fall increasingly in-line with global trends,” explained Trixie Lohmirmand, Senior Vice President, Exhibitions & Events Management, DWTC. “Consumers region-wide are becoming ever more discerning in their food preferences, with choices being influenced by health and environmental concerns as well as desire for quality, diversity and convenience.” Meanwhile, the global trend for healthier ingredients has given added prominence to the benefits of dates and is now reflected in the year-on-year expansion of DWTC’s Global Date Market. More than 15,000 trade buyers from over 110 countries are due at the show trio and Global Date Market, which collectively span more than 20,000 square metres of exhibition space. Running alongside the annual trio of bespoke food shows will be GulfHost, the complete hospitality equipment sourcing Expo for the Middle East, Africa and Asia.

Accessible strictly to business and trade visitors, the shows run 10am – 6 pm from October 30 - 31 and 10am – 4pm on November 1. For the full list of features, showcases and industry trends visit speciality.ae; yummexme.com and seafexme.com

Do you know our SPICE-CAKE Mix 2000? » Finely composed spice character » Typical winter spice taste » Economical in use due to low dosage » One mix – endless varieties

Mr Riyadh Hassan Cell: +971-50-7648434 Tel: +971-4- 04 3808444 riyadh@aramtec.com www.aramtec.com

This is just one of our many seasonal recipe ideas. For further information please contact the specialists at aramtec or at Martin Braun directly.

Season’s greetings and happy holidays from BRAUN

MARTIN BRAUN KG Tillystraße 17-21 30459 Hannover - Germany info-ME@martinbraun.de www.martinbraun.com

FOSTER YOUR CULINARY ART Perfect your baking and pastry skills at Richemont Masterbaker - the only center in the Middle East that specialises in intensive Bakery & Pastry training courses. The meticulously outlined training programs are designed to help aspiring chefs in UAE reach their fullest potential.

Cluster E, Al Shera Tower, Promenade Level, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai, UAE, +971 4 5542002 info@richemont-masterbaker.com richemont-masterbaker.com richemont-masterbaker.com Richemont Masterbaker Centre of Excellence Bakery & Pastry richemontmasterbaker Richemont Masterbaker

The Pro Chef - Edition 43

Articles inside

Game of Stoves

Closed For Business

Is UAE Ahead of the Game When it Comes To Global Food Trends

Taco Talk

Wagwan, Chef?

Grecian Gaia

Tomatolicious