Wine Myths Debunked An inside look at local working wine cellars
Secrets of the
Uses for Corks
MEMPHIS CHEFâ€™S GRILLING
View Magazine Online www.MemphisCorkIt.com
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From the Publisher
Published by Memphis Cork It P.O. Box 31568, Knoxville, TN 37930 865.531.3941 Publisher Allison Jacob Allison@JMI.me Chief Contributor Chris Thorn
Photography by Ande Demetriou Location at River Oaks Restaurant
To my fellow wine lovers, For several years I have wanted to launch a local magazine that reflects the multi-faceted world of wine. I knew I could not do this alone, but still forged ahead with my idea. Fast forward almost three years and I can now unveil my passion: Cork it! magazine.
Assistant Editor Elizabeth Jones Production Manager Karen Tobias Design Team Sara Hoeing Photographers Ande Demetriou Dove Photography Maggie McLendon Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
With the help and partnership of my colleague and dear friend, sommelier Chris Thorn, we have put together sound ideas that we hope will transform the Memphis wine market. Cork It! will be where the changing world of wines is promoted, challenged, and where learning about wines, old and new, expensive and affordable, is presented in ways you can enjoy and understand.
©2011 Jacob Marketing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or graphic content in any manner without written permission of Jacob Marketing Inc. is strictly prohibited. All articles are property of Jacob Marketing, Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from Jacob Marketing, Inc is strictly prohibited. Photographs used in Cork It are provided and copyrighted by their respective owners and may not be reproduced without the owner’s permission. Jacob Marketing, Inc., dba Cork It, is not responsible for any errors, misprints, misquotes, or omissions. All rights reserved.
As you browse the magazine, notice the local restaurants and the delicious cuisine and pairings they offer; peer into the personal wine cellars of local wine collectors as they share their passion with us; explore the opinions of local and national experts; and decide for yourself the clarification and definition of mystique that surrounds this exciting industry.
Visit Us Online At www.MemphisCorkIt.com Facebook @ Cork It Magazine Memphis
Our goal with each issue is to bring you concepts the wine novice will find enlightening, the wine lover will find challenging, and thought-provoking opinion for the expert to ponder and discuss. Just like releasing the millions of bubbles in every bottle of champagne a new magazine must have a start. Therefore, Chris and I would like to invite you to enjoy Cork It’s inaugural issue. I would love to hear from you. If you have any suggestions or comments for my future issues please email me. Lastly, please be sure to inform each wine professional you contact through the magazine that you saw them in Cork it! magazine.
Don’t miss Memphis’ latest collaborative website, www.MemphisCorkIt.com, featuring every local wine event you don’t want to miss. Keep your schedule packed with tastings, dinners, and terrific charitable events around town. See the magazine online and preview up and coming new advertisers in our area. Stay up-to-date with the latest wine and food related happenings on the blog!
On the cover: An inside look into the cellar of Cornerstone owner Dr. Michael Dragutsky. Top 10 Wine Myths Debunked An inside look at local working wine cellars Secrets of the pricing Creative Uses for Corks Memphis Chef’s Grilling Recipes
Contents TAKE A LOOK INSIDE THIS ISSUE
Around the Vine
FROM THE EDITORS
Get to know the editors of Cork It!, Chris Thorn and Allison Jacob
Photography by Ande Demetriou, Location at River Oaks Restaurant
CHRIS’S INTERVIEW Why Sommelier? Why not a winemaker or chef? I love to cook at home too much to be a chef…and my career started behind a bar so I will always want to have the personal interaction of the Sommelier – guest relationship. The short answer is passion, I know its cliché but it truly is the only answer.
to the internet, offering education and a “wine community” hang out online, and of course Theme Parks One thing that has defined this endeavor (Corkit) The community support, the restaurant support, the excitement of everyone has really been my driving force.
What sets Wine apart for you? Wine is living, it evolves, it breathes; wine is the purest expression of the grape, in the correct form it’s naked just putting itself out there, sharing its heart and soul…actually I am a little jealous!
How has your vision changed since the initial concept? Cork IT! Is ever changing, it was started that way and we hope to keep it that way. The whole idea is that we allow the magazine to grow into what it needs to be not what we want it to be…
Where do you hope the consumer basis will be in two years? Drinking and reading Cork it!...I hope they will be right here. I hope there is less of a disconnect with the readers and contributors of this magazine, but as long as the grape juice flows I will be happy. What is the vision you have for CorkIT’s future growth? Personally, I want to see some extra issues every year and expand
What was the most challenging aspect for you as Corkit! was coming to life? I am brand new to the publishing world, so that has offered its own set of difficulties from having to learn the lingo, to working with graphics people and photographers whom I cannot relate too, but mostly it was Allison calling me at 6am.
Photography by Ande Demetriou, Location at River Oaks Restaurant
FROM THE EDITORS
ALLISON’S INTERVIEW How and when did the idea of Cork it! Come about? The vision for a local wine magazine entered my thoughts about three years ago when I began volunteering for the Brooks Museum during their Art of Good Taste Series. I immediately recognized how very little I knew about wine and all of its elements. Furthermore, I saw an immense gap between myself and the wine “gurus” of our community. I knew there must be several others like me and challenged myself to bridge that gap. Not until I met Chris a couple years later, though, did my concept truly feel authentic and attainable. Together we started Cork it! How has your wine knowledge changed throughout this process? I would have to say in all honesty, I know a little bit about a lot of wine. I don’t feel as though that statement has changed much. There are too many new varietals to try, ALL the time. It’s almost impossible for me to justify going back to stuff I like and am comfortable with as I am always looking for a new adventure. Ha, that is me in a nutshell. I have most certainly learned one thing, though, and that is how to appreciate the pairing of an appropriate wine with a meal. The enhacement of taste is incredible. Regarding community support of corkit!, have your expectations been met? Overwhelmed is the first word that comes into my head. Humbled is the next. I have been honestly shocked at how quickly and effectively the Memphis wine community has jumped on-board. Most everyone I have shared my vision with has been supportive in ways I never imagined, by offering editorial content, promotion
for the release of the magazine, photography services, etc. My expectations were surpassed on day one and I am truly humbled by it. What is the vision you have for CorkIT’s future growth? The initial premise for Cork it!’s to be an informative magazine that offers basic knowledge all the way up to more intermediate and advanced content. We have a vast array of categories that I am hopeful will continue to offer diversification. I forsee Cork it! becoming a subscription based publication read by middle to upple crust Memphians, male and female, alike. One thing that has defined this endeavour (Cork it) The distributor and restaurant support has been nothing short of unconditional. The excitement of many of those in the food and wine community, in some ways is a little scary...as I want to deliver a premier product. Nonetheless, it has been my inspiration all along. How has your vision changed since the intial concept? Ha, funny question. I think it’s safe to say my vision has changed 100 times...all for the better though. I never strayed from my concept to educate and to create a “learn, experience, love” philosphy. However, throughout the 3-4 months that Chris and I were creating the bulk of content, I would have these lightbulb ideas that he would help me revise (as sometimes I’m not on earth with my concepts) and we would run with it. It has been so much fun!
Circa by John Bragg 6150 Poplar Avenue, Suite 122, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Crispy Striped Bass with Tarragon Beurre Blanc Crispy Striped Bass with Polenta Crust, Edamame, Corn, Tomato and Tarragon Beurre Blanc: *Domaine Perraud Macon-Villages Bourgogne Blanc, France 2009 This ripe, round chardonnay from the Macon area of France has weight and depth with a palate lifting acidity that refreshes as it coats the mouth with citrus, white fruits and herbaceous notes. Oak aging, herbaceous undertones and concentrated fruit are a natural for the toasty polenta, corn and the velvety tarragon buerre blanc sauce. A Mirror and Contrast effect of these food and wine flavors make this wine pairing inviting and comforting.
Georgia Bobwhite Quail Georgia Bobwhite Quail stuffed with polenta and chorizo over braised greens, golden raisins and toasted almonds: *Muga Reserva Rioja, Spain 2005 This elegant red fruit focused Rioja exudes black cherry, cranberry and plum accented by smoky, tea leaf notes. Itâ€™s supple richness, acidity and light tannins keep it intriguing. Pairing this wine with regional Spanish chorizo, dark greens and sweet subtle raisins is a must. The dark rich meat of the quail stuffed with sofrito, chorizo and polenta flows nicely with this earthy, fruit forward Rioja Reserva. Who says poultry doesnâ€™t go with red wine.
901.746.9130 6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119
BROOKS PATRON’S DINNER
From top left, Thomas Arvid and Allison Jacob, Dr. Ben Wheeler, Daniel Baron and Denise Wheeler, Chris Thorn and Josh Hammond, Diane Jalfon and Lindsey Hedgepeth, Chris Thorn, Charley Campbell and Dr. Michael Dragutsky, Bottom left Allison Jacob, Peter Margolin and Jill Margolin. The “Farm to Table, Grape to Glass” dinner featured Silver Oak Wines and four courses by Chefs Wally Joe, Andrew Adams, Felicia Willett, and Dominic Orsini. It included a live auction and special guests, Silver Oak Winemaker Daniel Baron, and artist Thomas Arvid.
DISTRIBUTOR TASTING AT FLEMINGS
From top left, John Condy, Chris Thorn and Cecila Robilio, Chris Thorn and Allison Jacob, Andrew Fischer and Aliison Jacob, Van Weinberg and Allison Jacob.
Courtesy of Chris Pugh
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen 712 West Brookhaven Circle, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
AM Breakfast The complexity of a great sangiovese deserves an equally complex dish like the a|m breakfast; a dish consisting of in house cured pork belly over creamy polenta, with homemade pork rinds and an egg poached ala sous vide. The process produces an incredible texture reminiscent of soft custard. The pairing for this is based on the stronger flavors of the dish. The fruit filled body of the wine loaded with cherry intensifies the savory flavor from the fats in the belly. Both the wine and breakfast have spicy elements, the wine with its tannic finish and the pork rinds from the breakfast dusted with a house spice blend.
Vermentino with Spring gnocchi Vermentino is a no brainer to compliment the spring gnocchi with morels and spring peas. The balance of pears and citrus blend seamlessly with the spring peas and leeks while the mineral notes on the finish bring out the earthy flavors of the morel. The gnocchi and the wine both feature subtle and intriguing layers of flavor and texture. The surprisingly creamy body of the vermentino pairs well with the soft texture of the gnocchi. This white wine counterbalances the sweetness from the peas and leeks with citrus and acidity. Finishing off the dish the parmesan shredded over the pasta with its sweet nutty flavor allows the tropical fruit notes from the wine to really shine.
Maw Mawâ€™s Ravioli with Terrablanca Campaccio Super Tuscan Maw Mawâ€™s ravioli, a stand-alone star in itself, needs a big bold red dance partner. A meat filled ravioli in a meat gravy, both of which have beef, chicken and pork. The Terrabianca Campaccio Super Tuscan consisting of 70% sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon was just the wine for this role. The rich toasted almond and chocolate in the wine are balanced by the rustic ragu. With back notes of black berry and current amplifying the tomato. Finishing with just a touch of leather and soft tannins to compliment the underlying porcini in the gravy.
COLUMNS â€œWine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thingâ€? -Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon Local Experts let loose opinions and facts alike, offering you a multi-faceted view of their world of wine. A window into the minds on the other side of the industry
IN SOM WE TRUST BY CHRIS THORN When you enter the office of a professional you are there to solicit advice or learn something new about a subject that particular person has a certain expertise in, no? Why is the restaurant table any different? You have entered the office of another professional, correct? I am fully aware that not all service people are as educated or informed as perhaps they should be and this is a changing dynamic; however this makes those that strive to learn and be knowledgeable all the more important, these masters of flavor matching, Rembrandts of reading ones needs, creators and fine dining facilitators need be utilized to maximum potential.
“We have attorneys to help us understand the law, doctors to guide us through medicine, teachers to educate, and Sommeliers to better our understanding of the grape in its most unique and flavorful form.” Wine to some is easy to understand, to others wine is simple to drink, others are misinformed, and some are set in their ways, to the Sommelier wine is passion, (believe me we don’t do it for the money), We are here to guide you through wine lists that we have developed, loved, and put together like a chef would compose a dish, each part playing its role in the grand scheme of things. We are here to help you find something new, an old favorite, or a substitution when inventories are running low, and to make that perfect pairing when needed. Whether you’re looking for a silky Rioja to accompany a coffee and chocolate rubbed pork loin, or you want a bottle of Sancerre with a sharp acidity, briny minerality and flint characteristics to enjoy alongside a Kobe strip with spiced wild mushrooms. We are there to point you in the right direction, to pull a few bottles and explain their finer points or just to shut up and open them. Sommeliers are experts in their fields, with years of study and trial and error under their belts, working day in and night out with wine and food, and every odd request any guest has ever come up with, remember the Sauvignon Blanc and Kobe? These men and women yearn to share their passion with you, to provide the perfect accompaniment to your meal all based on what you are looking for. Sommeliers love the connection with the guest, getting to know your palate, your preferences, the challenge of finding that perfect bottle from a list we created, to make you say “wow”, to show something new to the willing guest. Offering tastes of esoteric styles and new discoveries that simply excite us, all the while being able to offer some new insight into your favorite producer, region, or style. Next time you dine, ask for the “wine guy / gal”, strike up a conversation, put a little trust into the hands of pro, and when you find a great somm never ever let ‘em go!
Chris Thorn, Sommelier
>>Corkage seems to be the hot button issue making its way around the local industry at the current moment, so let us take a minute and I will tell you all about it, what it is for, what it’s not.
Corkage is, first and foremost, a service charge; however that is misleading because NO ONE providing the service receives any of the fee. The $10-20 dollars goes straight to the restaurants financials and never sees the servers/sommeliers pocket. Corkage could be considered to cover a perceived loss of “profit” because the customer failed to purchase from the house list; HOWEVER it is more specifically about covering the costs associated with the bottle the staff is opening and serving, which include the glassware “rental,” cleaning, and polishing, the decanter if requested or required and, the water and special detergents to sanitize these. This minimal charge also helps to pay the salary of the wine professional who spent time and resources to build this list, store wine properly, and train staff to expertly conduct wine service (READ: not filling your glass half way up, correctly handling the bottle, and making dinner recommendations based on the wine you brought in). It offers a base for which you tip on($2-4),they are after all servicing your bottle and because the service person does lose a sale, excuse me, an excellent opportunity for a sale (contrary to popular belief waiters are sales people just as much as they are service people). Don’t argue you might not drink wine / cocktails, because that hypothetical goes just as well the other way... except wait, you have a bottle of wine in front of you.
would result in corkage being waived (READ: one bottle). The abuse begins with people who haul 9 bottles to a dinner with 6 people, the “connoisseur” who sits at the BAR with 2-4 bottles of his / her own wine , people who are seriously too cheap, or uneducated about wine and see a $10 corkage as an abomination because they only paid $8.99 for their “selection” at the liquor store! There is nothing wrong with these situations, because hey! We operate in a HOSPITALITY industry, but guess what? We are a business, we have a bottom line, we have investors, staff, and other bills. We have a commitment to keep the lights on, the grill burning and provide full services to other customers, as well as you, even if we have to do it at $10 per cork.
Corkage is designed to not only cover costs and loss from revenue centers but to offer some control for hosts whom have long been taken advantage of in an industry that has become so abused by its own generosity. The initial idea was collectors could enjoy something from a cellar with depth and breadth incomparable to a restaurant’s (collectors normally stay to one particular style, restaurants usually try to offer selections that run a global gamut conducive to their cuisine) or the lay person could enjoy a special bottle, perhaps the same champagne from a wedding day for an anniversary, a customers favorite at a business dinner, or maybe a bottle you received as a gift. These circumstances are extremely acceptable and chances are, occasion
2.Offer the server, sommelier, chef, or owner a small taste of your selection that night.
Corkage is not punishment. It is a fee and is widely known that it exists so there should be no surprise. But, if you should desire to garner a more welcoming environment at your local dinning establishment, follow a few unwritten rules of conduct concerning corkage. These do not guarantee corkage will be waived; however, it builds great relationships and gets you “special” treatment later.
1.Purchase from the restaurant besides food, a glass of champagne, an aperitif style white, or a cocktail.
3.Be respectful. Do not “ever” bring a wine that the restaurant carries. If there is a sommelier or wine director on site utilize them; engage them in conversation to help them understand why you BYOW. 4. If your intentions are to bring multiple bottles, please call ahead.
>> Sentinal Gap, Erratics and Lake Mizzoula. What do all these things have to do with wine?
All three are part of the history of the Pacific Northwest, an area that boasts more than 700 wineries and produces more than 12 million cases of wine a year. This history starts back about 15,000 years ago during the first Ice Age, when most of the North American continent was covered with glaciers. As these large ice blocks pushed south, they took soil and large rocks, called erratics, from Canada and created rifts or ridges that ran from the Cascade Mountains eastward across Washington State and Idaho. These ridges acted as dams so that when the ice started to melt, a huge lake, called Lake Mizzoula, was created. Lake Mizzoula covered most of lower Canada, Eastern Washington, Idaho and Montana. After hundreds of years, the water pressure finally found weak points in the ridges and that’s when the flood began. A 300-foot tall wall of water came rushing down through Sentinal Gap, scouring the land of what soil was left and pushed more big rocks and boulders from Canada into Washington, leaving the limestone and volcanic base rock barren. Over the next several thousand years, wind, rain and erosion worked on the land to create the sandy, loose gravel type of soil that we see today. One benefit of this type of soil is the dreaded phylloxrera cannot survive in it (phylloxera was the root cause of the destruction of vineyards in Europe and California during the 19th century). Also, this type of soil drains very well and because of its poor nutritional value, it causes the vines to stress, which forces them deeper into the ground. Water is another factor here. Because the Cascade Mountains are on the western side of the state, the rain is kept from going eastward. So eastern Washington only averages 7 to 10 inches of rain a year. With this lack of rain, farmers irrigate using the abundant water supply of the Columbia, Yakima and Snake Rivers. Combine that with being located between the 46-48N latitude, which means an extra 60-80 minutes of light per day and warm to hot days and extra cool nights. All this adds up to near-perfect conditions for growing world class grapes. Washington is divided into 11 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). Each AVA is defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Trade Bureau and established by the wineries based on the soil, climate and terroir of a defined area. The Columbia Valley is the largest, while Red Mountain is the smallest. What grows well in Washington? Reds, including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah; and Whites like Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
My favorite areas for reds are Red Mountain and Walla Walla, where all these great red wines are from: Bunnell Family Syrah, Andrew Will Ciel du Cheval, Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon, L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot and Ste. Michelle Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon. Also look for Hedges CMS red, a great bargain wine. As for whites, look for Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc, L’Ecole No. 41 Chardonnay and Semillon and Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling. Waterbrook Chardonnay is the value sleeper from Walla Walla.
THE SPANISH PARADOX BY MARNE ANDERSON
Then there is the Penedes region, north of Barcelona on the Mediterranean coast. Eighty-five percent of all Cava is made in this region. Cava is the Spanish equivalent of Champagne and is usually made in the Methode Traditionelle (which is the same as the protected name Methode Champenoise used in the production of Champagne). It is usually less acidic than Champagne and is made only with white grapes, predominantly Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel.lo. Normally Cava is non-vintage and sparkles as an excellent value compared to champagne’s soaring prices.
Here are some recommendations of Spanish wines currently available in Memphis:
Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja
Spanish wines are regulated by the same European Community laws as the rest of Europe. They are not very difficult to decipher as all Western European countries use a similar designation. (I.e. DO, DOC, DOCG). Spain is a very large country with a wide variety of climates and altitudes. In fact, Spain has more acreage under vine than any other nation. This provides the Spanish wine lover with a myriad of choices.
How about Jerez-Xeres – what we call Sherry. Spain’s fortified contribution to wine, similar to Port, Madeira and Marsala. It begins with a still white wine of no more than 12% alcohol that has seen no malolactic fermentation. Grape Spirits are added after the conclusion of fermentation process and along with a unique barrel aging process (Solera System), will eventually produce a high quality sherry called Fino or Manzanilla and a darker, nuttier one called Oloroso.
Spanish wines range from the light, crisp, aromatic Albariño produced in the cool damp region of northwestern Spain called Galicia ( Rias Biaxas DO) to the robust, dark and earthy wines of the Priorat and the exotic and honeyed dessert wines from Alicante. They also have the wines of Rioja, where all wines must be of DOC quality or greater (no bulk wines). The high elevations of the Toro region with dry long summers and short cold winters provide for bold wines high in alcohol.
Many wine lovers classify the wines they seek out primarily by grape variety. This can present a problem when we consider Spanish wines as the same grape may have a different name depending on the region. Confusing? Maybe. But my suggestion is that you try a variety of Spanish wines and make note of those you like relying more on the region of production than the varietal used. There is an excellent selection of Spanish wines available in all price ranges.
he Spanish Paradox deals with the fact that Spanish wines have never had higher ratings, production levels or quality yet the Spanish consumption of their domestic wines has never been lower. However, the consumption of Spanish wines in the United States is increasing dramatically year by year. Spain is the third largest producer of wine in the world and the quality and diversity of wines from Spain is impressive but most of all the wines are affordable. This presents an opportunity to become more familiar with words like Cava, Priorat, Rioja, Albariño, Jerez-Xeres, Tempranillo, and La Mancha.
Sparkling Poema Extra Dry Cava White Wine Can Feixes Blanc Pendes White Wine Fillaboa Albariño Red Wine Red Wine Tinto Pesquera Ribera del Duero Red Wine Guelbenzu Azul Navarra Red Wine Pasanau Finca La Planeta Priorat Dessert Wine Wisdom and Warter Cream Sherry Dessert Wine Casta Diva Cosecha Miel Alicante
When it comes to weddings, we’re partial to pink.
PINK BRIDAL SHOW Sunday, August 28, 2011 12 pm - 4 pm HILTON MEMPHIS HOTEL
While you’re at the show, don’t forget to pick up the latest issue of THE PINK BRIDE MEMPHIS MAGAZINE
For more information or to buy tickets call 865.531.3941 or visit
WINE LAWS by Gary Burhop
To further respect community wishes, the Tennessee legislature created a process by which each community could choose by referendum whether to have alcohol sold in their town. A positive vote is required for liquor and wine to be sold in retail package stores. Another referendum and positive vote is needed for liquor and wine to be sold in restaurants. To this day, 29 out of 95 counties in Tennessee remain ‘dry,’ not allowing any sale of wine or distilled spirits. Another 57 counties have limited availability. A cautious approach to the sale of alcohol has shaped the Tennessee industry. Retail store owners can hold but one license, and local zoning controls store location with limits on proximity to schools, churches and parks being most common. Retail store offerings are limited to wine and liquor only. Stores can sell no snacks, food, non-alcoholic beverages, mixers or accessories like glassware or even a corkscrew. Tennessee Alcoholic Beverage Commission rules are written to discourage package stores being a gathering place. In-store samples are not permitted and promotional merchandise and advertising specialties are severely limited. The result is that with very few exceptions, retail wine and liquor stores in Tennessee are truly small businesses. Years ago, when the Tennessee legislature still met every other year, the beer industry, represented by John Cooke, convinced the legislature to separate beer from the statutes covering intoxicating beverages. This enabled malt beverage distributors to avoid wet or dry elections in communities and allowed beer to be sold in all parts of all 95 counties in Tennessee. This is the genesis of what every college boy believes…beer is food, and why beer is available in grocery stores, convenience stores and gas stations. In those by-gone days the aforementioned John Cooke also acted as Secretary of the Senate every other year, and today the sole Senate hearing room in Legislative Plaza in Nashville is named for him.
SECTION 1. The eighteenth article of amendment to the Constitution of the United States is hereby repealed. SECTION 2. The transportation or importation into any State, Territory, or possession of the United States for delivery or use therein of intoxicating liquors, in violation of the laws thereof, is hereby prohibited. SECTION 3. This article shall be inoperative unless it shall have been ratified as an amendment to the Constitution by conventions in the several States, as provided in the Constitution, within seven years from the date of the submission here of to the States by the Congress. The Utah state convention ratified the 21st Amendment to the Constitution of the United States on December 5, 1933, ending the noble experiment better known as prohibition. Section 2 reserved to the states the near total control of alcoholic beverages. Tennessee adopted a system favored by the majority of states. Described as a three-tier system, it requires the manufacture, distribution and retail sale of alcoholic beverages to be distinctly divided. Manufacturers can hold no interest in a distributor or retailer. Likewise, no distributor can hold an interest in a manufacturer or retailer. Similarly a retailer can hold no interest in a manufacturer or a distributor. The rational was to have a distribution system based on private enterprise, but exclude criminal elements associated with the recent experiment in prohibition, that ensured every drop of alcohol could be traced for safety reasons, that all taxes were collected and remitted to the State, and that had safeguards to avoid excessive concentration, corruption or coercion anywhere in the system of making alcohol available to the citizens of the state.
What was unforeseen at the time the malt beverage statutes were written was the development of hardy yeast strains that eventually allowed brewers to craft beers with alcohol content in excess of six-percent. These high octane brews are still considered alcoholic beverages and can only be sold in retail package stores or restaurants licensed to serve liquor by the drink. In the days before liquor by the drink was approved (1971 in Memphis), ‘brown bagging’ or taking your own was common, if not legal. As wine consumption grew in popularity, the statutes and the rules of the Tennessee Alcoholic Beverage Commission were silent on whether consumers could take wine from their collection to a restaurant to be consumed with a meal. Then State Senator, now U.S. Congressman, Steve Cohen of Memphis successfully sponsored legislation that allows any patron to take their own wine to a restaurant. A restaurant can charge a ‘corkage fee’ for use of glassware and service - a typical charge is about $10 per bottle – or can waive it. And, any patron can re-cork an unfinished, partial bottle either taken to or purchased at a restaurant and take it home with them. Today, Tennessee consumers are reasonably well served. Selection offered through the distribution system is huge and the product is safe. There are nearly 6,000 brands registered with the Tennessee Department of Revenue and most of those brands have multiple products or wine varieties. Great Wines and Spirits, for example, has about 4,500 different wines at any one time and over 1500 different distilled spirits, and will order any item not stocked but available. And, if unavailable here, out of state wineries can register for a direct shipper’s license allowing them to ship directly to Tennessee consumers. Gary Burhop, Owner Great Wines and Spirits
TENNESSEE WINE LAWS
What is good for Oregon is good for us all by Michael Hughes
It’s difficult to describe an obsession much less pinpoint the moment it kicks in. All of the sudden one just finds them self in the midst of it. For me it’s Oregon and its beautiful wines. What is it about wine that can just grab ahold of someone and utterly refuse to let go? It’s much more than just a taste, it is feeling and emotion; wine is never simply a beverage. A good wine can evoke a memory whether imagery or purely sensory. It can instantly transport you back in time and oh so very far away. Oregon wines haunt me and make me salivate. They make me want to cook big feasts and invite a bunch of friends over. That’s what wine should do. It should grab ahold of your heart, your soul and MAKE you want to share what you taste with other people. I want to share Oregon with everyone I know. Most of my customers and friends (there is plenty of crossover trust me) know that the majority of the time I’ll put an Oregon wine in their hands. If we are talking pinot noir then 100% of the time I’ll recommend an Oregon wine. To me these wines are more soulful, sensual, and balanced than most of their California sisters. They tend to express an earthiness much akin to morels, shiitakes & porcini mushrooms. Some of the best even have notes of truffle which completely drive me wild. The first time I ever smelled truffle in a glass was Cooper Mountain “Mountain Terroir” Pinot Noir. The scent exploded in my head, it is something I’ll never forget. Sometimes that earthiness can manifest itself as a musky, darkness that leads to bittersweet luscious fruit as in Argyle Pinot Noir Willamette Valley or Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Willamette Valley. While there is a distinctive Oregon profile there are also different stylistic expressions of even the same grape type across the AVAs (American Viticultural Area). Pinot noir from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA is plush and round while pinot noir from Chehalem Mountains AVA tends to be a bit darker and slightly more gripping. What brings about this uniquely delicious style of wine in Oregon is a number of factors; the cooler, marginal climate means higher acidity due to temperature swings between day / night. This type of climate is what pinot noir loves the most. However, marginal climates tend to have more unsavory weather than many other climates, at times this means that some years can be rough. For example, in the cool 2010 vintage Cooper Mountain’s Tocai Michael Hughes, General Manager Joe’s Wine and Liquor
Friulano vineyard didn’t ripen so they were unable to produce a vintage. This
“What is it about wine that can
Most wineries in Oregon are small family run ventures, so they really feel the
just grab ahold of someone and
“intelligentsia’s” profound effect via poor criticism and now you have a bit of
utterly refuse to let go?”
a perfect example of how snap judgment can effect a region. When the 2007
can put immense strain on an already small production wine.
hurt when weather doesn’t go their way. Add to that the so-called wine media an idea how difficult marginal viticulture is! 2007‘s critically panned vintage is wines were first critiqued the most powerful wine writers were brutal. Due to unsavory weather some of the wines seemed a bit green or unsound. The poor criticism caused low sales on the 2007s & hurt many a winery. Yet with a few years in the bottle many of the ‘07 pinot noirs became hauntingly expressive, alluring & absolutely stunning. Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2007 Willamette Valley was just such a wine. This Dundee Hills AVA winery produced a bottle that I’ll never forget. The aroma was like smelling fresh sweet earth, dried cherries & wild mushrooms. It’s still a shock to me to smell all that in a bottle and is without a doubt why I continue to love Oregon.
Item# 212 © 2011 14 Hands Winery, Paterson, WA 99345
Discover Washington state’s best kept secret The inspiration for 14 Hands wines recalls a time when wild horses – measuring a scant 14 hands high – once freely roamed the hills of eastern Washington state. 14 Hands celebrates the spirit of these wild horses with big, bold, juicy reds and crisp whites that represent the unbridled freedom 14 hands . com and spirit of the region.
“America’s Favorite ” – Nielsen YTD ending 4/2/11
ste -michelle.com Item #323 ©2011 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA 98072
Amerigo 1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN 38119 (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Natura Carmenere with Smoked Chicken & Spinach Pizza Natura Carmenere with Smoked Chicken & Spinach Pizza: This is definitely a food wine. It has a nice earthiness to it, with bright fruits on the front end but finishes with a slight dryness of dirt and tobacco. It complements the sweetness found in the honey yeast dough of the pizza as well as accentuates the flavors of the in-house smoked chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and ricotta cheese.
Catalpa Malbec with Eggplant Parmesan Catalpa Malbec with Eggplant Parmesan: This was an exciting find for us. I’m a lover of Malbec and this one in particular exemplifies the true expression of the grape. It’s a wonderful pairing with our layered Eggplant Parmesan as we bring together sautéed zucchini, eggplant, and grilled Portabellas. This, topped with a rich hearty red sauce pairs well with the raisiney, coffee undertones pronounced in the Catapla. This wine, though it does play well with others is also a great stand alone glass and a tasty treat.
Pieropan Soave with Veal Picatta Pieropan Soave with Veal Picatta: I gravitate to this wine as you typically don’t see a Soave on a lot of Memphis wine lists. Usually recommended as an aperitif or paired with lighter fare of fresh vegetables, seafood, and stock based dishes, I think it has enough weight to stand up to the complexity of flavors in this dish. Here we have seasoned veal cutlets in a sauce of white wine, béchamel, lemon juice, and capers. The Soave has some residual sugars that the malic acid of the lemon juice flushes clean and subtle almond flavors subdue the saltiness of the capers. Finishing the dish with jumbo lump crab meat brings this pairing full circle with bright Bradford pear and lemongrass.
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN
(901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
Mixology is a buzzword these days in the restaurant world, causing many restaurateurs to reexamine their spirits program.
at home. As much as mixology is a step forward, it is also a look into the past with many bars highlighting classic cocktails such as the Sazerac.
a combination of a 2 year old and 16 year old ryes, to create a marriage of spiciness and mellow sweetness for the perfect Manhattan.
“Defined as skill in preparing mixed drinks, mixology is a focus on creative ideas and quality ingredients in crafting cocktails. “
With this movement, bartenders are having to look beyond the “usual suspects” in spirits and give unique liquors/liqueurs a try as they attempt to create nuanced flavors and mark their own signature with their cocktails. Artisanal distilleries, such as 209 Gin produced out of San Francisco that offers more of a layered flavor combination than just a juniper based gin, are making their way to back-bars near you. New categories of spirits are emerging as essential flavor components like Rye whiskeys. High West distillery out of Utah… (yes, I said Utah!) produces its Double Rye,
Also, bartenders are paying attention to every detail of the drink, including minor elements like the vermouth. Quality vermouths such as Carpano Antica Vermouth out of Italy or France’s Dolin are so flavorful they can be enjoyed alone or as delicious ingredients to a myriad of cocktails. Presently, mixology is a rising tide in the bar scene and excitingly enough is making its way to Memphis. Go out this weekend and explore what your city has to offer in this brave new world of cocktails.
In these tough economic times, the public has higher expectations in how they spend their money and they want more than your two step cocktails they could make
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Average price $
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen 712 West Brookhaven Circle, Memphis TN (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com
9 glass 42 bottle
Andrew Tices/ Michael Hudman/ Shawn Stukenborg
Fresh perspective on traditional Italian
Globally inspired with southern flair
Southeastern Italian primarily from Puglia
Bistro with a mix of French, Italian, New Orleans/Caribbean
9-13 glass 40-65 bottle
6-11 glass 32-150 bottle
Northern Italian with a modern twist
6.50-24 glass 26-325 bottle
Prime Steakhouse & Seafood
USDA Prime Steaks, chops, and fresh seafood
Southern American and European Cuisines
10 glass 24-170 bottle
Southern with a fusion of Creole and Classical French
83 South 2nd Street, Memphis TN (901) 525-7948 www.AutomaticSlimsMemphis.com
22 S Cooper, Memphis TN (901) 722-2244 www.BariMemphis.com
243 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com
Carrabba’s Italian Grill
5110 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 685-9900 www.Carrabbas.com
149 Union Avenue, Memphis TN 901) 529-4188 www.PeabodyMemphis.com
Circa by John Bragg
6150 Poplar Avenue, Mempis, TN (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com
2285 S Germantown Rd, Germantown, TN (901) 753-4017 www.ElfosRestaurant.com
1044 South Yates Road, Memphis, TN (901) 763-3700 www.EJensen.com
6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/ Memphis
Folks Folly Prime Steakhouse 551 South Mendenhall Road, Memphis TN (901) 762-8200 www.FolksFolly.com
The Grove Grill
4550 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com
The Inn at Hunt Phelan
533 Beale Street, Memphis, TN (901) 525-8225 www.HuntPhelan.com
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Average price $
Interim Restaurant and Bar
5040 Sanderlin, Memphis, TN (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com
New American with emphasis on fresh fish and local produce and products
Authentic Greek / Steaks and Seafood
American / Greek
Fine Causal / Bistro
37 bottle 8 glass
Contemporary with Southern Influence
Continental and French
28 and up bottle
American French Bistro
Classic American Steakhouse
Local ingredients with a European flare
Jim’s Place Restaurant and Bar 518 Perkins Road Extended, Memphis TN (901) 766-2030 www.JimsPlaceMemphis.com
Jim’s Place Grille
3660 S. Houston Levee Road, Collierville, TN (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com
Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro Restaurant
2094 Madison Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 725-1375 www.LaChardonnayRestaurant.com
120 Monroe Ave, Memphis TN (901) 527-7085 www.McewensOnMonroe.com
5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com
50 Harbor Town Square Memphis, TN (901) 260-3300 www.RiverInnMemphis.com
2146 Monroe Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 590-2828 www.RestaurantIris.com
River Oaks Restaurant
5871 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 683-9305 www.RiverOaksRestaurant.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com
South of Beale
361 South Main, Memphis TN (901) 526-0388 www.SouthofBeale.com
937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com
5689 Quince Road, Memphis TN (901) 552-4907 www.ThymeBistro.com
MEMPHIS ROOTS â€œA bottle of wine begs to be shared; I have never met a miserly wine loverâ€? -Clifton Fadiman, NY Times 8 Mar 1987 A journey through our local heroes of the vine, a chance to see the people who have made Memphis proud as Oenophiles, a hint of insight into the minds that mold the local wine scene and keep our glasses full.
¯ Sommelier, n, french; Trained and knowledgable wine professional who specializes in all aspects of wine services as well as food and wine matching
Jeremy Nash TITLE: Manager / Sommelier
FAVORITE WINE: 2006 Ferrari Carano “Tressor”
EMPLOYER: Chez Philippe
WORST PAIRING MISTAKE: Not taking into account herbs in the sauce when pairing
YEARS EMPLOYED: 6 years with Peabody Hotel
# OF BOTTLES: 100 including 20 375ml
FAVORITE THING ABOUT SOMMING: building trust, and watching the guests
# OF WINES BY THE GLASS: 15
experience elevate when the wine works
$ RANGE: $38 - $500 for bottles
CORKAGE: $20 per bottle
ON A PERSONAL NOTE: “It’s an exciting time, with the new chef (Jason Dallas) we
LIST STRENGTH: Classic French, California FAVORITE PAIRINGS: Sweet potato bisque & Loredona Viognier, Lodi, 2008 / Niman Ranch Lamb Chop with winter squash, pear compote, and rosemary lamb jus & Antigal,
are moving back to classic French cuisine, getting back to the roots of food and wine” SOMMELIER SPECIALS: Pairings are available for 3, 5, or 7 course meals
Malbec “Uno”, Uco Valley, Argentina, 2008
John Condy TITLE: Wine Director EMPLOYER: Erling Jensen’s The Restaurant YEARS EMPLOYED: 14 years with 3 years at current position # OF BOTTLES: 167 including 25 375ml # OF WINES BY THE GLASS: 30 $ RANGE: $36 - $669 for bottles $9 - $18 By the glass CORKAGE: $10 per standard 750ml LIST STRENGTH: Exclusivity, California, Bordeaux FAVORITE PAIRINGS: Jumbo lump crabmeat with hollandaise & Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa / Sautéed Mero Bass with sautéed
spinach and soy truffle butter & Nicholas Potel, Les Vergelesses, Savigny Les Beaune FAVORITE WINE: 1985 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus PASSION: Introducing guests to esoteric wine styles and regions on a global scale SOMMELIER SPECIALS: Friday night wine dinners for $75 , Pairing always available at various price points per request FUN FACT: After classes his senior year in high school John ran 4 miles to Pat O’Brians in New Orleans, enjoyed WAY to many hurricanes, and attempted to run back to the school, a feat which he failed miserably to complete.
Q&A WITH TOM CASSIDY
Photography by Maggie McLendon
Q: Describe your storage? A: I have a lot of Older Wine so I keep the cellar at 49-50 degrees and 70% humidity
Q: What is your cellar capacity? A: Over 3000 bottles
“The Cellar That Fish Built” Tom Cassidy, the once proprietor of Memphis’ Cassidy Fine Foods takes some time to discuss his passion for wine and an impressive collection stored in what he calls a “working cellar”
Q: What areas do you focus on for collection? A: It is ever changing; I do have a lot of Bordeaux, Burgundy, USA, and Italian and I do a lot of tastings to try new things to keep an open mind on all the great wines produced around the world. For everyday drinking, my consumption is very similar. However, I really enjoy mentoring young wine lovers on the beauty of a classic, wellmade bottle of vino.
Q: How many bottles do you currently have? A: Not exactly sure, but, plenty to last me thirty more years!
Q: Oldest bottle? A: Non fortified selections from the thirties and forties
Q: Most regarded bottle? A: 61 latour a pomerol double mag
Q: Best purchase? A: Buying top Bordeaux while a working man could afford them
Q: Worst? A: Worst is tricky, probably something from auction that was either fake or heat abused
Q: Why Wine? A: Well, it relates to the business I have been in for years and I am a great believer in dining as an experience not just to satisfy hunger. Some people eat to live; others live to dine and drink well matched wines.
Q&A WITH DR. MICHAEL DRAGUTSKY Photography by Ande Demetriou
The “Cornerstone” of Memphis Collectors Dr. Michael Dragutsky, Managing partner of Cornerstone Cellars takes us into his beautiful subterranean vino getaway
Q: Describe your storage? A: Well, the cellar is underground but there is also separate temperature and humidity control, it stays at 56 degrees with about 72% humidity
Q: What is your cellar capacity? A: 4,000 mostly designed for 750ml bottles
Q: How many bottles do you currently have? A: Around 2800 standard bottles and some large format
Q: What areas do you focus on for collection? A: Boutique California Cabernet and Bourdeaux, and a lot of Cornerstone
Q: Oldest bottle? A: 1912 Cheval Blanc
Q: Most regarded bottle? A: Every vintage of cornerstone since ‘91
Q: Best purchase? A: 1990 Latour Futures for around $790 a case
Q: Why Wine? A: It’s a sharing experience, a social beverage, something to be enjoyed with my friends either old or new. Everyone in the wine community whether in a social club, professional aspect or other has been a pleasure to be around and share with ….plus it has medicinal purposes.
WINERIES IN TENNESSEE, ARKANSAS AND MISSISSIPPI
WINERIES IN TENNESSEE Amber Falls Winery & Cellars, Hampshire www.amberfallswinery.com Apple Barn Winery, Sevierville www.applebarnwines.com Arrington Vineyards, Arrington www.ArringtonVineyards.com Beachaven Vineyards & Winery, Clarksville www.beachavenwinery.com Beans Creek Winery, Manchester www.BeansCreekWinery.com
Del Monaco Winery, Baxter www.DelMonacoWinery.com
Old Millington Vineyard & Winery, Millington www.OldMillingtonWinery.com
Chateau Aux Arc Vineyards and Winery, Altus www.ChateaucAuxArc.com
Fetzer Vineyards, Nashville www.fetzer.com
Paris Winery, Paris
Cowie Wine Cellars, Paris www.CowieWineCellars.com
Grinder’s Switch Winery, Centerville www.GSWinery.com
Red Barn Winery & Vineyards, Lafayette www.RedBarnWinery.com
Keels Creek Winery, Eureka Springs www.KeelsCreek.com
Highland Manor Winery, Jamestown www.HighlandManorWinery.net
Savannah Oaks Winery, Delano www.Savannah-Oaks-Winery.com
Mount Bethel Winery, Altus www.MountBethel.com
Smoky Mountain Winery, Gatlinburg www.SmokymountainWinery.com
Post Familie Vineyards & Winery, Altus www.PostFamilie.com
Stonehaus Winery, Crossville www.StonehausWinery.com
Raimondo Winery, Gamaliel www.RaimondaWinery.com
Strikers’ Premium Winery, Athens
Wiederkehr Wine Cellars & Vineyard, Wiederkehr www.WiederkehrWines.com
Hillside Winery, Sevierville www.hillsidewine.com
Blue Slip Winery, Knoxville www.blueslip.com
Holly Ridge Winery & Vineyard, Livingston www.HollyRidgeWinery.com
Cedar Ridge Winery, Springfield www.cedarridgewinery.net
Keg Springs Winery, Hampshire www.KegSprings.com
Century Farm Winery, Jackson www.CenturyFarmWinery.com
Long Hollow Winery & Vineyards, Goodlettsville www.LongHollowWinery.com
Chestnut Hill Winery, Crossville www.chestnuthillwinery.com Clinch Mountain Winery, Thornhill www.clinchmountainwinery.com Corey Ippolito Winery, Blountville
Monteagle Winery, Monteagle www.MonteagleWinery.com Morris Vineyard & Winery, Charleston www.MorrisVineyard.com
Countryside Vineyards & Winery, Blountville www.CVWineryandSupply.com Crown Winery, Humboldt www.crownwinery.com
Mountain Valley Winery, Pigeon Forge www.MountainValleyWinery.com Ocoee Winery, Cleveland www.OcoeeWinery.com Old Medina Winery, Jackson www.OldMedinaWineClub.com
Sumner Crest Winery, Portland www.SumnerCrestWinery.com Tennessee Valley Winery, Loudon www.TNValleyWine.com
WINERIES IN MISSISSIPPI Almarla Vineyards & Winery, Shubuta
Tri-Star Vineyards & Winery, Nashville www.TriStarWinery.com
Aspen Wine Company, Jackson
The Winery at Belle Mead Plantation www.theWineryatBelle MeadPlantation.com
Gulf Coast Winery, Gulfport
WINERIES IN ARKANSAS Alpine Vineyards Winery, Altus www.rhysvineyards.com
The Winery Rushing, Merigold
Claiborne Vineyard, Indianola
Old South Winery, Natchez www.OldSouthWinery.com
CONSTELLATION WINES U.S. - RMW
OUR WINERY IS KNOWN FOR SETTING THE BENCHMARK.
AND ELEVATING IT EVER SINCE.
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2011 Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville, CA
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
wine spectator & robert parker, The Wine Advocate
Cabernet Sauvignon • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
wine & spirits
Cabernet Sauvignon • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
robert parker, The Wine Advocate
The Box Wine Short Course by Jeff Lefevere
Reprinted by permission of the author. First appeared at Forbes.com
Stereotypes exist for a reason. Mainly, they are rooted in some level of truthiness: However, here’s a bit of stereotypical truthiness that is no longer valid. Box wines don’t suck. In fact, these days, depending on where you look in the wine aisle, much of the box wine in the U.S. is quite good. Yet, like most wine matters, this truth isn’t always obvious when fighting against perception. And, popular perception holds that Franzia’s ubiquitous boxed wine, long the top-selling wine in the U.S. based on volume, is rot gut swill. While I’ll abstain from giving my own Franzia opinion, I will note that wine enthusiasts are missing an opportunity to find drinking value and enjoyment across a number of other box wine offerings if they let one box spoil the pallet, as it may be. With that in mind, as a summer public service, driving to the essential truth between “perception” and “reality,” here is my short course on box wine: The least you need to know to navigate the box wine options at the grocery store.
Spectator magazine reviewed 39 box wines in the fall of 2009 and 37 of them received a score higher than their “Good” score of 80 points, it’s validation for the whole box wine category. If the critics believe, generally speaking, so too should the skeptics. A DROP OF (BACKGROUND) KNOWLEDGE Who woulda thunk that the history of box wine would have some controversy about its origins? It’s true. Credited by some to an Australian (Thomas Angove in the mid1960s), the Aussies have readily accepted the box wine format, commonly referred to as a “Wine Cask” down under. Some reports indicate as much as 50% of wine at retail in Australia is sold this way. Despite the Australian acceptance of the format, a mid-1960s invention time frame doesn’t cut it for Americans who choose to claim innovative superiority. Scholle Packaging, and the company’s forebear William R. Scholle, is credited domestically with inventing the bag-inbox (BiB) format in the 1950s with a design originally conceived for the safe transport of battery acid. If you need a historical narrative tiebreak, to this day Scholle is the packaging industry leader for this format and holds the trademark for “bag-in-box™.”
FIRST THINGS FIRST: A PROOF POINT PARTY TRIVIA Let’s get this out of the way immediately: Few people cop to following wine scores, but they are a qualitative measure for the wine business and a guiding force in consumer purchases. So, when Wine
Box wine started appearing on U.S. shelves during the 1980s as a more convenient and longer-lived format to the jug wines that were predominant in the 1970s.
Alas, as wine grew in quality and luxury stature in the U.S., along with maturing wine drinkers palates, box wine didn’t keep pace. Until the early part of the new millennium, most box wine brands carried generic varietal names like “Rhine” and “Blush” that had long lost favor with growing wine sophisticates. In addition, the wine wasn’t vintage dated, nor did the producers state where the wine was from, something that is now de rigueur for premium wine. At best, by the 90s, box wine was notable for its convenience and its stability after opening, but not as an enjoyable quaff.
Fast forward to the early aughts and the Wine Cube, a Target store brand, and Black Box both launched in 2003 featuring premium wines that capitalized on the benefits of the format – convenient packaging and shelf-life, along with high quality varietal wine and vintage dating, re-igniting the possibility that schlepping box wine home from the store didn’t require a pair of sunglasses, a downward gaze and a preconceived caveat. Seven years later, in their decade recap, the trade magazine Brand Packaging
named high-end wine in a box as one of their 10 packaging innovations of the decade joining no-gooey-mess ketchup bottles and tuna in a bag, amongst other now commonplace packaging formats. THE VALUE EQUATION Aside from quality, box wine does solve practical problems for U.S. wine enthusiasts– it offers value (the typical 3 liter box contains the equivalent of four bottles of wine) at a price that is usually compelling even for the math challenged. And, perhaps more importantly, the wine lasts for a period of time – from four to six weeks depending on the kind of tap used while solving a real dilemma for wine drinkers who enjoy a glass in the evening, but hate dumping a bottle two days later when an unfinished bottle has gone south on the kitchen counter. In these environmentally aware times, box wine offers another powerful advantage – it’s “greener” than a bottle and reduces required resources. A COUPLE OF TIPS Alternative packaging is going upscale and while prices have been somewhat consistent across brands in the category, that is now changing with more expensive brands coming into the market. Pay heed to the “four bottles for the price of three” model that has been in place with 3 litre box wine because the AstraPouch holds two bottles and is often similarly priced. Oxygen is the enemy of wine – new technology is coming out every year that decreases the amount of oxygen that touches wine via the tap so pay attention to the fine print on packaging because the life of the wine varies from four to six weeks and beyond based on the brand and the packaging. Box wine isn’t ageable in the classic sense of the wine word. If you buy it, start drinking it. GOING GREEN The resurgence of boxed wine coupled with an almost ubiquitous environmental awareness on the part of consumers is leading to innovation. Aside from box wine, wine packaging is undergoing a revolution in form and function. Just several years into a trend that shows no sign of slowing down before a complete perception makeover is complete, wine can now be purchased in kegs on tap at restaurants, in canteens, in a pouch with a spigot (Astrapouch), and in containers that resemble super-sized Hi-C juice containers from lunchrooms of yore (Tetra Pak). These all challenge the long-held belief that wine in anything other than a bottle equates to a bad wine.
Restaurant Iris 2146 Monroe Avenue, Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 590-2828 www.RestaurantIris.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Homemade Vegetarian Pasta Homemade Vegetarian Pasta: Dish Description: Vegetarians delight at this housemade Pappardelle with fiddlehead fern, shiitake mushrooms, pickled carrots and fava beans, all in a lemongrass and ginger broth that is garnished with red pepper flakes. Pairing Recommendation: Because this dish is slightly spicy, I like to pair it with the Hugel Gentil, an Alascian blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Sylvaner. It is a fruit-driven wine with light citrus and stone fruit notes and a floral finish. This wine is a match made in heaven for spicy dishes often found in Thai and Vietnamese food.
Surf and Turf paired with Deep Sea Red Surf and Turf Dish Description: One of our most popular dishes, our Surf & Turf is a 14 oz New York strip stuffed with fried oysters and crumbled bleu cheese, on a bed of potato hash seasoned with fresh herbs and Allan Benton’s bacon drizzled with hollandaise and bordelaise sauce. Pairing Recommendation: I like to pair this dish with the Deep Sea Red from the Conway Family Winery. It is a blend of Syrah, Petit Syrah and Mourvèdre. It has wonderful blackberry and plum notes with a spicy herbal finish. The wine has great acidity and soft tannins and plays off the bleu cheese and bacon but stands up to the steak!
Hand Dived Dover Sea Scallops
2146 Monroe Avenue Memphis, TN 38104 901.590.2828 Mon-Sat: 5 pm- 10 pm Sun Brunch: Once a month Reservations recommended. www. restaurantiris.com Please Note: Our corkage fee is $15 per bottle. We respectfully decline to open bottles that are currently represented on our wine list. If you have questions about our curent wine list, please call the restaurant at 901.590.2828 or email us at email@example.com.
Hand Dived Dover Sea Scallops: Dish Description: This homemade potato gnocchi is tossed in a vermouth cream sauce, topped with the pan seared scallops and garnished with a fennel and grapefruit salad. Pairing Recommendation: I pair this dish with the Chateau Larmevaille Entre-Deux-Mers White Bordeaux. The wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. It has a beautiful light citrus flavor with a nice minerality to the finish. The crispness works well with the cream sauce and the grapefruit. That mineral quality plays off the vermouth and the fennel!
AROUND THE VINE “The wines that one best remembers are not necessarily the finest that one has ever tasted, and the highest quality may fail to delight so much as some far more humble beverage drunk in more favorable surroundings.” -H. Warner Allen Education, explanation, and excitement; full of interviews, editorials, and technical information, from these things our understanding of how and why we love what we drink is formed…In Vino Veritas
AROUND THE VINE
INTERVIEW WITH JAY TURNEY What do you see as the most important trends in the wine industry today? Anything really excite you, or (conversely) keep you up at night biting your fingernails? Well, California winemakers are trying to go back to balancing their wines as far as alcohol and fruit. The wines have gotten so full blown and over the top lately that it was hard to really give CA their due. They are also starting to “classify” their wines, whether producing a traditional or more modern style, smaller producers are finding what grapes they produce well and sticking to them. The days where every winery HAD to have a Cabernet, a Chardonnay, a Merlot and a Sauvignon Blanc just to stay in business are fading. Scaring me is the European price rocket, is Bordeaux ever going to come back into check with pricing? Are French wines going to become more accessible? or will everything become en primeur sales and collector wines When it comes to pairing, outside of the guests’ preferences, what do you focus on? There are the very traditional pairings, there’s contrast, and flavor matching. Today chefs aren’t afraid to use bold flavors; Sirachi, and other strong peppers so you really have to match these bold flavors. But me, it’s all about acid, you need acid with food. With cheese you have to stand up to the diary. A lot of the time it’s not about the meat or protein, it’s about the sauce. You can match herbaceousness, you can match spiciness, and you have to look at the richness of the sauce and what the chef seasons it with. You have to know your chef, how he prepares food. You balance the weight of the wine, the acid, and the oak and from there you can go match the flavors.
Why wine? I was exposed to European wines at a young age, and working with great maître d and other passionate coworkers I was lucky enough to really come into wine, I embraced it. Food excited me, wine was the logical next step, it is a crafted beverage, liquid food. Wine is the perfect accompaniment for food, it’s that little extra pleasure.
NEW WORLD RED WINES Peter Lehman “Clancy’s Red” 2008 ( Barossa, Australia) $36 d’Arenberg, “The Custodian” Grenache 2006 (McLaren Vale, Australia) $44 Bonny Doon, “Le Cigare Volant” 2002 (California) $60 Luigi Bosca D.O.C. Malbec 2007 (Mendoza, Argentina) $44 Tikal “Amorio” Malbec 2007 (Mendoza, Argentina) $65 Qupe Syrah 2008 (Santa Barbara, California) $45 Molly Dooker “The Boxer” Shiraz 2009 (South Australia) $55 Two Hands “Angels Share” Shiraz 2008 (Mclaren Vale, Australia) $80 Thorn Clarke “Willam Randell” Shiraz (South Australia) $92 Margerum “M5” Rhone Blend 2008 (Santa Barbara, California) $50 Blue Rock Syrah 2007 (Alexander Valley, California) $65
What traits and/or skills are required for one to be a successful Sommelier?
Boekenhoutsloof “Chocolate Block” Red Blend 2008 (South Africa)
Reading, tasting, and pairing food; that’s our main focus. You also have to be able to introduce excitement
Chesler Cabernet Franc/Merlot 2003 (Napa Valley, California) $80
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Do you have a favorite grape variety, or specific region you prefer to drink? Right now I am real big on Italian, I love Ripasso, I really like Umbrian whites. I like to have a wine that challenges me with every sip. I like working through the tannin, through the thickness or delicacy to see how it plays out. Rhone wines are hard to “get” you can’t pick out the little things, you can’t pick out the oak, you have to dig through layers of flavor. What is your AH HA moment? When you knew wine was the way to go? There was an incident years ago with Cesar Para, who was one of my first Maître D back in ’89 and he would always surprise people with a wine. One day he comes up to me and says, “I want you to taste this , what do you think “, I was like “oh, Sauvignon Blanc” Cesar says “No, Orvieto”. That was my wakeup call, it tasted like Sauvignon Blanc and it had a little Pinot Grigio character but with more substance. Those were different times, serving late 70s Bordeaux, early 80s burgundy; an old school environment. Give us your thoughts on Corkage fees? Corkage is just principal; we use it to reign in collectors that abuse it sometimes. Plus we are killing sales, our (Circa) corkage is $15, but some people haven’t come to terms with the fact that’s it’s (corkage fee) about our bottom line. It’s a matter of service, your using nice glassware, we are decanting it, pouring it; there has to be a service charge in there somewhere, there is a lot of labor included.
SAUVIGNON BLANC & PINOT GRIS Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 20010 (Marlborough, New Zealand) $32 Twomey Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Napa Valley, California) $50 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Russian River) $85 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Napa Valley, California) $60 Fritz Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Russian River, California) $35 Craggy Range “Te Muna” Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Marlborough, New Zealand) $44 Margerum “Klickita” Pinot Gris 2009 ( Columbia Gorge, Washington) $38 Babcock, “Naughty Little Hillsides” Pinot Gris 2009 (Santa Rita Hills, California) $44 Anne Amie Pinot Gris 2009 ( Willamette Valley,Oregon) $42
Describe the structure of your Wine lists over the years, how do you select the wines to be included? I have favorites I have liked over the years, I’m always partial to the European profile because that works best with food. You always have to have California, the mainstays so you don’t kill sales. You have to work with the trendy stuff. You have to change your list every day to keep up with allocations, the new vintages; you have to guess what the hot new thing is going to be especially with Oregon, Washington, and the new CA stuff. I like to have Bordeaux, quality Pinot, Spanish reds. I enjoy having Loire Valley and Italian whites by the glass. I’m always looking for that next thing.
In your opinion what is the hardest thing about being “a wine guy” in Memphis? Memphis is about 5 years behind the trend, other markets are embracing every new wine, every new varietal. Memphis is still stuck in a rut, everyone wants their wine instantly soft, perfect right out of the gate. We have to pop a lot of bottles for customers to taste just to educate, just to build trust. They have to taste it to trust you What’s the best? When you do create a cliental, they trust you, the wine gurus trust you. They begin to trust your loyal employees. There are so few sommeliers in town that when word gets around that you really know your stuff, they come to you. Even better is turning someone on to a great Ripasso, a great Syrah.
AROUND THE VINE
The language of wine is often confusing, not only to the consumer but the expert as well, both sides of the conversation may be saying exactly what they are looking for or offering but often misunderstanding of the following definitions can cause serious mistrust or a lackluster experience.
Varietal term used to describe a wine primarily made from a single grape variety, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, etc. and having the name printed on the label. Commonly misused in place of the nomenclature of the vine, Varietal refers to the actual wine produced. Terroir (Tehr WAHR) French, Loose translation is “Sense of place”, refers to all environmental elements in a particular region affecting grape growth. (Climate, Geography, and Geology) Appellation Legally defined and protected area to identify where grapes for wine are grown. These areas are defined by a shared “terroir” and regulations for growth and production. (varies by country) Tannin is an astringent, bitter polyphenolic compound that either binds or shrinks proteins and other various amino acids and alkaloids, causing a dry, puckering feeling in the mouth. Created from the juice remaining in contact with the grape seeds and stems, and from moderate contact with wood (Oak) Dryness technically the lack of residual sugar present in a particular wine, Wines can have “sweet” or fruit like aromas and still be dry, often confused with a light body or presence of higher acidity Acidity The presence of tartaric, citric, and malic acids. Not the same as dryness, as acid creation is the polar opposite of sugar development. Refers to the fresh, tart and sour attributes of the wine assessed during tasting Sweetness Determined by the residual sugar (sugars that remain unconverted to alcohol) that remains after fermentation, perception of sweetness will be influenced by other factors such as acidity, alcohol levels, and tannin Meritage “Rhymes with Heritage”, A proprietary term used to identify “Bordeaux style” red and white blends produced outside the protected area of Bordeaux. Requires a fee to be paid to the California-based Meritage Alliance, hence some wines carry a “table wine” designation by refusing to pay. Reds are blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot or Carmenère, with no variety comprising more than 90% of the blend. Whites are blends of Sauvignon blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle again with no variety comprising more than 90% of the blend.
AROUND THE VINE
DANIEL BARON WITH SILVER OAK CELLARS Interviewed by Allison Jacob I met someone in Bordeaux that wanted me to work for him and run a US venture. So in November of 1982 I managed a vineyard in Napa Valley. I met my future wife and on our 2nd date she said her favorite wine was from Silver Oak, that was when I became aware of Silver Oak. After a year of dating we married in 1984, and have been married for 27 years. 10 years after we married I was hired at Silver Oak (in 1994). What is the difference in style between the Napa Cabernet and the Alexander Valley Cabernet?
Where did your love of wine begin? When did you know wine was the career for you? My love of wine - that is a complicated question, I’ve never told anyone this, maybe I should add it to my bio - I’ve always had an intense sense of smell, I realized this when I was a kid, it began in my mother’s kitchen when she cooked, we lived on the south shore of Long Island, NY. In practical aspects - I was fascinated with the vineyards. In my 20’s I lived in north Napa County and needed a job so I worked in the vineyards. I worked for a guy in the Sonoma area and fell in love with the vineyards, the complexity of it all. I started looking at how the vineyards changed wine. In those days wine making was separate from grape growing. I was looking for some meaning in my life and I met John Maynard, he was a vineyard manager and I worked for him. I also met Earl Thollander who was an illustrator and artist for Sunset Magazine living in the area, the Knights Valley area, and traveling the back roads for the magazine. We were woodcutting buddies, and he made homemade wine, zinfandels, and he got me hooked on making wine. We would cut some wood, make some wine and play some music together. Earl’s kids were my age but Earl and I got along and were better friends. So I started by working in the vineyards and making homemade wine. (he is laughing as he is telling the story) In 1975 I graduated from UC Davis - where I finished my professional and scientific training. I have a masters in viticulture and enology. My son, Sam, is graduating from UC Davis this year also. When did you become aware of Silver Oak? I became aware of Silver Oak in the early 80’s. This is another good story. After I graduated from college I worked in Anderson Valley, then did a 1 ½ year sabbatical in Bordeaux.
The style is reflected in the 2 different regions and is dictated by the soil and climate. Alexander Valley is more continental, not as much maritime influence because it is protected from the Pacific Ocean. The warmer climate has a more fertile soil that lets the wine have softer tannins, more expression of fruit. The Alexander also doesn’t use as much new oak as the Napa does. Napa is a blended wine and it is grown in a cooler climate because it faces the ocean, the lower ¾ of Napa Valley being the coldest. The fog pushes into San Francisco and on to the southern Napa Valley, it gets held there by the mountains, so it is colder and has the element of sea air. The soil is more volcanic so the wine has more spice, earthiness, blackberry and blueberries, it has more concentration of fruit. Did you have to harvest as late in 2010 as other vintners and how is that going to affect the wine? To answer your question, it’s not too late unless you want the higher alcohol content. In 2010 we had as close to European growing conditions as possible for California. There is a lot said about global warming and possibly moving the vineyards. We do have global warming, but don’t need to move the vineyards. Why is this happening, so the wine writers will give higher scores and more can be charged for the bottle of wine. How do you feel in regard to the high alcohol wines? In California, there is a huge error in people making wine from overripe grapes and with too high an alcohol content, wines with a 16% - 18 ½% alcohol content. There are lots of ways to make wine from blended wines and different varietals to the artistic expression of winemaking. But making high alcohol wines is the equivalent to an athlete on steroids. It is unfair to compare those wines with lower alcohol wines. And it goes against the grain of what wine is all about. Wine should be about the fellowship of the drinkers and nuances of taste, you can’t have these things when you can’t think and you’re blurred because of the alcohol.
As the wine maker, how long do you forsee the aging potential? You shouldn’t ask what the aging potential is; but should ask what is the intention of the wine? I want to make the best wine I can from the fruit nature presents to us. Our biggest vintages are 2005 and 2007; these will age 22-27 years. Our lighter are 2004 and 2000, they will age 17-18 years. 2006 falls in between, aging18-20 years and should develop great depth. It all depends on the cellar conditions, the temperature of the cellar and the wine staying put, not being moved around a lot. What is your artistic expression behind Silver Oak wines? In France recently - some have a war-like wine making philosophy. Making every step the best, being the best wine at the best time under the best conditions, very aggressive alpha male thought processes. This is an impossible task and not very rewarding. We have a peace-like philosophy; our goal is to make excellent wine, which we feel is a sustainable goal that we can do every day and not just be complacent about making wine. Not asking when should I drink this wine, but what will happen to this product over time? When can I get enjoyment out of it - not what minute will it be at peak. Are you going to open a bottle and say it’s at its peak and immediately drink all 11 bottles? I would rather decide to open a bottle 5 years from now, enjoy it one day with a good steak. In a few months open another bottle of the same and enjoy it with lamb chops. Anything else you would like to add, any advice? Yes, don’t hold on to those bottles - drink them! And when you invite someone down to look at your wine cellar, don’t just admire the wine, share a bottle with them.
AROUND THE VINE
ARRINGTON VINEYARDS BY CHRIS THORN
PHOTOS BY DOVE PHOTOGRAPHY www.doveweddingphotography.com
made a recent trip up to Arrington Vineyards, a young Tennessee winery just south of Nashville, and spent some time with Kip Summers, their winemaker. I will tell you watch out for this guy, he’s creative, dedicated, and resourceful. Kip is turning out some really great wines in various styles in Nashville! Arrington was the brain child of one Fred Minderman and Kip Summers, whose obsessed with the idea of making great wine in Tennessee; this led them to purchase a small farm on a hill top and hillside of what is currently the central vineyards on the present property back in 2003. Originally operating under the name of Firefly Vineyards they began on the road to where they are today. In late 2004, attempting to capitalize on an opportunity to expand the vineyards, Fred and Kip approached Kix Brooks, of the famous country music duo Brooks & Dunn, to partner with them. Kix finding a passion for the other side of the wine industry, joined forces and the group decided to press forward full speed and build a top tier first class winery on the property. The name was changed to Arrington Vineyards, a namesake for the actual town in which the vineyard is located to support the local community. The first few years were spent expanding the vineyards, working on the style and winemaking, all the while forging an alliance with the local commissions to change zoning and allow the winery to not only be an agricultural center but to crossover to the retail market, and be able to sell the product they were cultivating. 2007 saw the grand opening of the tasting room and production facilities, allowing the winery to push its way to the fore front of the state’s full service wine properties. Kip had gotten his feet in the door with the 2005 and 2006 vintages which he was able to crush and bottle at another TN winery where he had been the winemaker for 13 years. Sitting down with Kip it’s easy to see the passion in his eyes when it comes to his craft and the pride he feels for Arrington’s wines, which he is not shy to admit are designed and produced with a more global feel to them, however they are based on his own personal preferences in style. Not based on the “Quaint notion of the winery on the hill with the vineyard out in front of it and all the wine produced comes from that vineyard”. Arrington has a substantial amount of estate fruit especially Viongier, but for other offerings, does source grapes from outside Tennessee, which is a very normal endeavor in the current industry with highways and refrigerated trucks being able to ease the transition from vineyard to production facility. It raises the question of how far is too far for the grapes to travel before the majesty is lost, but considering the vast majority of the Washington state
wine production facilities are located in and around Seattle, 3-5 hours from the vineyards, and the recent introduction of the “custom crush” facilities that question is limited only to imagination. Mr. Summers sees no issue with the details and sticks to his guns, “I know Riesling works in Washington, and that’s where we get it from”, He goes on to explaining that he makes what he wants, stating “We aren’t chasing trends”. This rings true when you taste the wines, my favorite was his Syrah which Kip dotes on with pride. The Juice is crafted with the wine makers favorite elements of different styles around the world. This particular fruit, sourced from Washington, offers the meaty hedonistic aromas of the Northern Rhone, but once the first sip is taken the drinker is instantly in Australia with slightly darker fruits. Kip’s approach is more contemporary than most, but his refreshing ideas are a welcomed change in an industry so divided by the terrior vs. Global style debate, Arrington seems to have found a middle ground and they are standing on it pretty firm. Though Arrington is still experimenting with some plantings on the property, the rising star has been Viognier, (which I will tell you look out for!) A tasting from the tank of strictly Tennessee Viognier yielded a smile I would never have expected from such a young idea, but this wine will be something to look for, I am buying at least a case. Also on the grounds there is a substantial amount of Vidal Blanc, Petite Verdot, and Chambourcin, a grape that produces deep hue and beautiful aromatics. The site itself is quite beautiful, almost a diamond in the rough, out in the middle of “nowhere” and then as you pass the massive barrels that hold the Arrington sign and at the top of the hill sits a log cabin style building housing a tasting counter and retail section, inside which you can buy the majority of the offerings Arrington has, and taste through many wines for free with an extremely knowledgeable and friendly staff more than willing to educate not only on the wines your drinking but the surrounding area as well. Or you could venture out into the beautiful country side and even walk through the vines, having a picnic, or enjoying the concerts that carry on through the summer.
www.Arringtonvineyards.com 6211 Patton Road Arrington TN 37014 (615)395-0102 Monday - Thursday 11am - 8pm Friday - Saturday 11am - 9pm Sunday 12pm - 6pm
AROUND THE VINE
ARRINGTON VINEYARDS WINE LIST
ARRINGTON WHITES 2009 Chardonnay Tropical fruit aromas, subtle oak and a light heat on the nose, palate focuses on apple pie and pineapple with a toasty finish and a hint of white pepper 2009 Barrel reserve Chardonnay (wine club only) Smells of buerre blanc and vanilla pear candles, creamy mouthfeel with citrus well balanced and flowing 2009 Viognier Lilly and honeysuckle with honey dew melon, touches of ripe peach with solid acidity on the finish 2009 “Stags White” Gewurztraminer shines through all
other grapes, strong apple from the vidal blanc, light wine with an honest complex finish, intriguing 2009 Riesling European style fruit supported by apple, nectarine, and Bartlett pear show against an off dry balanced finish, wonderfully well made
2008 Merlot Black tea, plum, and clove with allspice. A touch of heat with short transition to the finish 2008 Cabernet Classic American style cabernet with dry chocolate and some cassis, oaked finished
2009 Gewurztraminer Great balance with slight but dominating pepper, finishes with red delicious and baking spices
KB 308 Hedonistic, meaty with cherry and cedar. A light menthol and currant jam balanced with fleshy tannin
ARRINGTON REDS 2008 “Red fox” Petite wild strawberries and crayon wax framed by rich fruit and sharp acidity, has a rounded mouth feel with light tannin, tastes like Tuscany
2008 Syrah Tasters choice…aromas of the northern Rhône, meaty and savory with sage on the back, full bodied and balanced with a sharpness reminiscence of Australia finishes long
2008 Petit Verdot Raisins followed by a black and blue berry, some bakers chocolate and port like aromas, heavy tannins are drying but not harsh, spiced clove and out right earth, this needs some time Encore Port Coco, Maraschino cherry and sun dried raisins, with a hot chocolate note, sweet but not over the top Raspberry wine Pure true expression of the fruit, refreshing and approachable Blackberry wine Another true expression, slightly different than natural blackberry but extremely well made
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Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
New Orleans BBQ Shrimp / Crabtini paired with Director’s Cut Chardonnay Our goal at Ruth’s Chris is to provide the selection and expertise to elevate dinner and a bottle of wine to a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We’ve worked to create a wine list of infinite opportunity for pairing with an amazing meal or enjoying for its own merits while relaxing after a trying day. Our staff is trained to guide you through the sometimes intimidating task of choosing a wine. We love it when we get to introduce a guest to something new. We believe wine and food are best when enjoyed together and without pretentiousness or snobbery. “Good wine is good. Great wine is great. More wine is better.” – Ruth While most folks go to a steakhouse for steak, we take great pride in our fresh fish and seafood. Our New Orleans style Barbecued Shrimp appetizer combines a spicy butter sauce with plump gulf shrimp and garlic toast. This classic from the “Crescent City” typifies the Creole style by combining bold flavors and spice with classic French techniques. The Crabtini showcases the delicate flavors of colossal lump blue crab, tender greens, and a classic remoulade sauce. This cool, refreshing starter is an exercise in refined understatement where the subtle flavors of the sea and the garden blend in perfect harmony. It may seem paradoxical, but a single wine can simultaneously provide a counterpoint to the spicy richness of the Barbecued Shrimp and an echo to the delicacy of the Crabtini. Both of these dishes, while quite different, will pair perfectly with crisp acidity, complexity of flavors, a rich mouthfeel, and lingering finish. The Director’s Cut Chardonnay from Francis Coppola Winery provides all of these characteristics in a classic Russian River style. This is my favorite Chardonnay to pair with food due to its balanced oak flavors of vanilla and spice, and its crisp apple and citrus notes which finish with a round, rich texture.
Filet Oscar and Carribean Lobster Tail paired with Caymus “Special Selection” Ruth’s Chris is synonymous with USDA Prime beef. The New York Strip steak was the favorite of our founder, Ruth Fertel, and an ideal expression of what sets our beef apart. The rich, luxurious texture and intense beef flavor are preserved by a deceptively simple preparation using only salt, pepper, heat, butter, and parsley. The Filet Mignon Oscar style and Caribbean lobster tail exemplifies the over-the-top flair of the “Big Easy.” Eleven ounces of beef tenderloin, topped with a sizzling crab cake, asparagus spears, and Béarnaise sauce with a Cajun seasoned lobster tail can only be described as New Orleans opulence at its best. The richness of these signature dishes demands a wine with depth and focus to provide balance. I’ve chosen Caymus “Special Selection” Cabernet Sauvignon for its finely textured tannins, exuberant expression of varietal character, and subtle spice notes from French oak aging. This exceptionally balanced cabernet stands up nicely to rich fare without overshadowing the more delicate flavors in the sauce and shellfish. The 2008 vintage also marked the first year that 14% Merlot was added to the blend which provides an extra layer of plush fruit character. For a wine of this depth and concentration, it is exceptionally food-friendly and an ideal pairing for these dishes.
A CONNOISSEUR BY ANY OTHER NAME Aaron Boland, Star Distributors
s you ponder a map of Chile you can’t help but wonder what goes on in that tall and narrow country. Oh sure, there are llamas, the Andes and Easter Island to consider but not to be overlooked is Chile’s rank as a player in the global game of wine. You have to go back a few hundred years as European Vitis vinifera vines were brought to Chile by Spanish conquistadors and missionaries in the 16th century around 1554. Despite being politically linked to Spain, Chile’s wine history has been most profoundly influenced by French, particularly Bordeaux, winemaking. Prior to the phylloxera epidemic, wealthy Chilean landowners were influenced by their visits to France and began importing French vines to plant, these vineyards remain today with original rootstock and have yet to be infected which can be attributed to Chile’s natural boundaries (Pacific Ocean, Andes Mountain, Atacama Desert to the north and Antarctica to the south) that have left it relatively isolated from other parts of the world and has served to be beneficial in keeping the phylloxera louse at bay. Because of this many Chilean vineyards do not have to graft their rootstock and incur that added cost of planting. Chilean wineries have stated that this “purity” of their vines is a positive element that can be tasted in the wine but most wine experts agree that the most apparent benefit is the financial aspect. Fast-forward to 1993, South America saw the birth of a winery whose vision of producing premium, expressive and innovative wines conveying the spirit of the New World came to fruition as the label Cono Sur. I recently had the good fortune to travel south to visit the innovative winery and vineyards in Chile. I know what you are thinking, Cono Sur, what a bad play on words.
Actually, the name Cono Sur translated means “southern cone” referring to the tip of Chile’s wine region located in the Southern Hemisphere. This winery is a relatively new venture, but they are one of the most innovative wine properties in Chile and perhaps the world. Key in the winery’s viticulture is sustainable agriculture, a process using ecological farming. An example I experienced was watching geese survey the vines for invasive insects, eating them thereby replacing the need for any pesticides that would otherwise be used. Also, sheep were on hand acting as tillers of the vineyards eating underbrush that could harm eco-cycle of the vines. These and other techniques have lead Cono Sur Vineyards and Winery to win the title of Green Company of the Year 2011, awarded by the prestigious British magazine Drinks Business. This award positions Cono Sur as one of the leading wineries in sustainable production worldwide. The winery has expanded the boundaries of viticulture and winemaking in Chile, introducing exotic varieties that were rarely see in the country. They were the first winery to produce and export Viognier from Chile, produced the first Riesling with a Bío-Bío Valley Designation of Origin. They are one of the largest producers of Pinot Noir in the world and produced the first Sparkling wine with a Bío-Bío Valley Designation of Origin. Chile is now the fifth largest exporter of wine in the world, and the eighth largest producer and grower. There has been much investment in Chile’s wine industry over the past decade or so, and a massive swing towards cleaner, new technology winemaking. I feel that Cono Sur will continue to lead Chilean winemaking in innovation and technology, after all - they are connoisseurs.
Napa Cafe 5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Spearfish crudo with Andrew Will Velvet Canyon Food & wine pairing is an important part of the Napa CafĂŠ experience. We have found that it is important to have a touch of creativity but it is important to keep things simple. We start by finding one or two flavor profiles in the wine, incorporating them into the dish and then build around that. The dishes featured along with the accompanying wines are perfect for springtime in Memphis. The first dish is a spearfish crudo with grapefruit segments, shaved radish, and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. We have paired the ANDREW WILL Velvet Canyon from Columbia Valley Washington with this dish. It is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc which is traditionally known for racy acidity and wonderful citrus flavors, and 50% Semillon which is rich and round with tropical fruit flavors. The spearfish is amber in color, has a firm flesh and is mild in flavor. The raw fish works great with both varietals. The grapefruit works well with the Sauvignon Blanc while the crunchy texture and peppery flavor of the radish is a nice contrast. The addition of the extra virgin olive oil plays into the richness and roundness of the Semillon.
Fresh Walu with Robert Sinskey Our second pairing features fresh Walu with sautĂŠed leeks & Shiitake mushrooms with a ginger & coconut broth. We have selected a white wine from Robert Sinskey who are known for their organic and biodynamic practices. The wine, Abraxas, is a blend of grapes typically associated with the Alsace region of France. The blend is comprised of 47% Pinot Gris, 23% Riesling, 17% Gewurztraminer, and 13% Pinot Blanc. Asian inspired food and any wine featuring any of these varietals are a match made in heaven. The wine features a nice bit of citrus from the Pinot Gris, lime & floral characteristics from the Gewurztraminer, a hint of apple & sweetness from the Riesling, and minerality & richness from the Pinot Blanc. In addition to ginger and coconut a little fresh lime and lemongrass are added to the broth. The wine was selected primarily on these components but the addition of the beautifully seared fish brings it all together.
Grilled lamb tenderloin with Le Corbeau We have decided to go with a grilled lamb tenderloin for our third dish. This dish also features candy striped beets, baby carrots , sunburst squash and a sauce that has a touch of honey and fresh thyme. The wine selected for this course comes from Napa Valley producer Elyse. The name of the wine, Le Corbeau, means The Raven. It is comprised of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah and comes from the Hudson Vineyard located in Carneros. We wanted to feature Grenache with this course because it is a varietal that we feel is underrated. The wine itself has a wonderful earthy quality that works well with the thyme and the baby root vegetables. The hint of sweet raspberry also works well with the touch of honey in the sauce. This Grenache is soft and expressive and a great compliment to the grilled meat.
SIDE BAR “Wine is made to be drunk as women are made to be loved; profit by the freshness of youth or the splendor of maturity: do not await decrepitude.” -Theophile Malvezin All things wine related but that don’t involve pouring juice into the glass, these make me feel better the next day…
WINE DINNER PARTY
ON A BUDGET
he most important thing about planning a wine dinner party is to plan ahead. Decide on how
many people you can comfortably entertain, then decide on the ambiance of the party. You want your guests to be comfortable and feel welcome. To accommodate the food, wine, flowers, dishes, and glassware will take planning also. If you don’t have enough plates and glasses - then either borrow from a friend or two, or look at the resale shops for a mismatched look. Be creative when combining different patterns for a cohesive look. No paper plates or plastic cups allowed! Your invitation will be the first thing your guests see to prepare them for your party. Instead of printed formal invitations you can handwrite them on a piece of classic stationary. For the table setting you can start by layering different tablecloths if you don’t have one that is the correct size or color. Centerpieces can be all candles if you have them, or a mix of candles and a few flowers. If you have greenery in your yard use that instead of buying flowers. Fruits used in a single color make a striking centerpiece as well or you can float a few candles and blooms in a wide bowl. When deciding on the menu and wine, think simple. You don’t have to serve 7-8 courses, 3 courses will be enough. And you don’t need to serve a different wine with each course. One wine with the appetizer, one with the main course will be sufficient. For the food, fresh seasonal vegetables and salads are the most inexpensive way to go. Try soup as an appetizer, then serve a salad. For the main course pastas, stews and chilies are the most economical dishes and they will stay warm on the stove without drying out. Using the inexpensive cuts of meat and braising or stewing will save you time in the kitchen. Dessert can be as simple as fresh fruit and ice cream or a pie. You could have the dessert be a sweet wine and forgo having anything with it. Pay attention to your menu and plan the progression of the courses from light to heavy and match your wine the same way, serving light to heavy and then sweet for the dessert. And if you have a rich main course, then serve a lighter dessert. Ask your local wine market to help you pair your wines to your food. Tell them your menu and your budget and don’t ask for the cheapest wine in the market. They can educate you on different selections that won’t break your bank account.
ometimes it’s not about the food and the wine - but the palate of the person eating and drinking. If you are new to wine then you probably have an inexperienced palate
and may not like many food and wine combinations, where an experienced person will like more adventurous pairings. If you don’t like something now, try again in a year. You might be surprised how much you have learned and grown. Having said that - there are several foods that are challenging to eat while drinking wine. Asparagus has a tendency to create odd vegetal flavors in most wines, but rarely is asparagus the star of the dish; try to stay away from heavily oaked whites and reds with big tannins. Grassy Sauvignon Blanc is a go-to when pairing just the little green spears. Artichokes have always been known for their ability to make wine taste “sweeter.” Sticking to middle of the road whites is most beneficial here, avoid extremely dry, acidic, or already sweet wines. Curries and other spicy hot dishes are generally not palatable with wine. The alcohol in the wine combined with the spicy food can burn the mouth. The exception here is good quality, balanced Rieslings, preferably sourced from Germany or Washington State. Eggs and egg based dishes offer a new set of difficulties, as their sulfurous qualities can have a souring effect. Try laser-like Champagnes or other sparklers with high acid or international whites with a small hint of sweetness; Viognier, Gruner Veltliner, or dry Rieslings Chocolate is another food that is difficult to pair with wine. The many levels of sweetness and various strengths of chocolate make it challenging, there is not one wine that drinks well with every type of chocolate. So experiment and try some new things!
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2011 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA
Best food in a pub
WAITERS STATION Server’s share their peeves on customers wine orders
Please stop ordering “red Zinfandel,” Zinfandel has always been red. A color only needs to be clarified when you want the sweet pink stuff, “White Zin” - Dave
Riesling is not always synonymous with super sweetness. Sometimes you will just have to trust me. - Jenn
116 South Main Street Memphis, Tennessee 38103 901.522.1488
It’s my job, my living to know what I’m serving…food or wine…if you don’t recognize anything please just ask! - Alan
Just because you read some story on the internet, don’t assume I’m going to over pour your wine, recommend the most expensive thing, or do some other shady stuff that some blogger ranted about. - Sarah
If you can’t or don’t tell me what you want or like I cannot help you… - Anonymous
Cafe 1912 243 S. Cooper, Memphis TN 38104 (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
2008 Alto Almanzora “Este” with Scallops
1912 Affordable dining in
243 So. Cooper at Peabody
www.cafe1912.com Sun: 11:30 - 2:00 (brunch) ~~ 5:00 - 9:00 Mon - Thurs: 5:00 - 9:30 Fri - Sat: 5:00 - 10:30
These aren’t your grandma’s scallops—stuffed with goat cheese and ham, finished with chorizo cream. We just got a new Spanish red that we serve by the glass, 2008 Alto Almanzora “Este”. It’s a blend of six grapes (mainly Monastrell and Tempranillo). With such rich flavors, we think this well-balanced blend lends good acidity to cut through the meaty flavors of the scallops. With the seemingly unusual flavors, the wine really rounds the dish out.
BULLETS AND WINE a homage to my first fan
“There are two things that should never sit on a shelf…bullets and wine” ~John Fitzgerald During the early part of my career, I remember a customer telling me this. He later became a good friend and drinking buddy. As funny as this sounded at the time, over the years it has begun to make more sense. Yes bullets are always good to have just in case or in that time of need, but really what good do bullets do until you use them? Wine is the same in some aspects. Some winemakers craft their vino to be these glorious works of art, while others want them in the hands of consumers yesterday.
But whatever the intention, you must drink the wine to be able to able to enjoy it! In today’s age where first growth Bordeaux and Premier cru Burgundies require a second mortgage to purchase (assuming you can even get them), and then they just get turned over and traded as commodities. These wines are becoming trophies more now than ever, pushed up on a pedestal by ever climbing prices and the prestige and the pomp of the name. Well no matter how you cork it, wine is still a perishable food product designed to be consumed. Maybe not today or tomorrow, as in some cases shelving might be required as it relates to cellaring time, but you cannot wait forever. We all may be able to think of a time when we opened a bottle a few years early but never did we say “This is nowhere near its prime and it is not approachable, I turn my nose up at it.” No, we drank it!
I can remember some of my favorites, a 1947 Pichon Lalande and a 1961 Chateau Latour Magnum and thinking “Wow, these could still go a few more years,” and that thought lasted for about 1.2 seconds before I came back to reality and the grace and elegance of the Pichon and the concentration and hedonistic character of the Latour immediately filled my mind. It is and will always be true that certain bottles will hold a place in the hearts of collectors and the average consumer alike, but I am referring to the generalities of wine; everything else… drink it, enjoy it, don’t sit around and brag about your X number of bottles In your cellar or your collection of first and second growths, grab a corkscrew, open it up and get online like everyone else and tell the rest of us how it tastes!
Sweet Grass 937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN 38104 (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
House smoked salmon salad with J Pinot Gris 2009 Our Newman Farms Pork Osso Bucco, the Carolina BBQ Tuna and the Shrimp and Grits are three of our most poplar dishes. We chose to show a house smoked salmon salad, Fresh Fennel, Capers and Lemon Horseradish Vinaigrette. The J Pinot Gris 2009 is a great match for the salad. The acidity in the wine helps cut through the richness of the salmon and the spice from the horseradish, the two make a perfect pair on our front porch.
Pork Osso Bucco with Marietta Cellars Petite Sirah 2008 The Newman Farms Pork Osso Bucco quickly became one of our most poplar dishes. We planned on taking it off the menu a couple of times during the warmer weather, but our guests continue to ask for it. We have paired it with Marietta Cellars Petite Sirah 2008. The Osso Bucco is braised with bourbon, sage and peaches. It is served over Bacon Shiitake Grits and Collard Greens. The dish obviously needs a strong wine to stand up against. The Petite Sirah is just that wine; it is well structured with rich fruit characteristics. It makes a perfect companion to the robust and smoky flavors of the pork osso bucco.
and stay to party
937 SOUTH COOPER STREET | MEMPHIS, TN 38104 ( 9 0 1 ) 2 7 8 - 0 2 7 8 | W W W. S W E E T G R A S S M E M P H I S . C O M
1. Aged Wine is Better Than Young Wine
3. “Reserve” and “Old Vine” Wines are the Top of the Line
Not all wines require aging. Many wines are intended to be consumed within a few years and they do not require aging. Typically, red wines that have high tannins, have a good balance of acidity, and an intense fruit flavor are the only wines that require aging. If you have a bottle that you are saving - it might now be a bottle of vinegar.
These terms have no legal meaning and is used at the discretion of the winemaker. In America, the term is often used to designate a special wine.
2. Red Wine Should Never Be Chilled Red wine should be served around room temperature, which is 60 degrees Fahrenheit, the typical room temperature when the term was first used. On a hot day in a hot room, that might mean you need to slightly chill the red wine. There are also some light red wines such as Beaujolais that will benefit from being chilled.
4. Wines with Sulfates will Give You a Headache Sulfates only cause headaches in about one percent of the population and this tends to be those who suffer from asthma. Sulfates are naturally present in wine and sulfur is abundant in various forms in all living things. Sulfites are used in preservation to prevent spoilage by winemakers worldwide and only the United States notes the sulfite warning on the label. The amounts of added sulfites are small and all white wines will have more than red wines.
5. All German Wines are Sweet There are a variety of German wines and they range from dry to very sweet like wines that are produced in various other countries.
7. Wines Should Always Breathe Allowing a wine to breathe is generally only necessary for those wines that need further aging. Breathing also allows the wine to be exposed to air and to soften the tannins. To really let wine breathe you need to decant it, the narrow neck of the bottle doesnâ€™t allow the wine to breathe.
6. Screw Tops are a Sign of Cheap Wine More and more wineries are using screw tops so that they may avoid cork contamination of their wines. Some say that the twist caps are a more consistent way of sealing the bottles.
8. All Wines Have the Same amount of Alcohol
10. Zinfandel is a Pink Wine
The level of alcohol in a wine depends on the amount of sugar that has been converted during fermentation. There are many wines that have been fortified with alcohol to raise the alcohol content.
There are no white Zinfandel grapes, all Zinfandel is actually a red grape. The name has become very popular because of the blush wine, the white Zinfandel.
9. The More a Wine Costs, the Better It Is The price of a wine depends on numerous factors. The land of the vineyard, the price of the packaging, the types of grapes that are used, how the wine is aged and the reputation of the winery or winemaker all effect the price.
Never be scared to ask questions or double check information, the world of wine is cursed with misinformation. As the industry is ever changing, no one can ever know everything, sometimes it is enough to enjoy the wine your drinking, but having the added knowledge can be rewarding
HAPPINESS GRANTED. The Clinic of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, P.A.
CELESTE LACHAPELLE, B.S., R.N. 1000 Brookfield Road, Suite 100 Memphis, TN 38119 Ph. 901.765.4700 Fax 901.685.2717
TASTING NOTES “Fill up, Fill up, for wisdom calls when e’er we let the wine rest. Here’s death to prohibitions fools, and every kind of vine pest” -Jamrach Holobom Various styles and offerings tasted blind by our panel of trained and amateur tasters both, all printed wines meet a rigorous quality price ratio requirement to ensure any selection is going to be tasty.
WINES TO WATCH Allison Jacob
Treana, White, Marsanne / Viognier, Central Coast 2008
Kendall Jackson, Avant, Chardonnay, California 2009
Treana Vintage, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Paso Robles 2008
Four Vines, naked, Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2009
Nine Hats, Meritage, Columbia Valley 2008
River Aerie, Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley 2009
Nine Hats, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2008
Jean Basptiste-Adam, Pinot Blanc, Alsace 2009
Ferrari-Carano, Prevail, West Face, Alexander Valley 2006
Isabel Mondavi, Deep rose of Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2009 Picket Fence, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2008
Wildhorse, Cheval Sauvage, Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley 2007
Macrostie, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2008
Sparkman Cellars, Kindred, Columbia Valley 2008
Ferrari-Carano, Tre Terre, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2008
Columbia Crest Grand Estates, Amitage, Columbia Valley 2008
Domaine HouChart, Cotes de Provence 2010
Elyse, Cest si bon, Naggiar Vineyard, Sierra Foothils 2006
Castello Monaci, Liante, Salice Salentino 2008 Candor, lot 2, Merlot, Central Coast NV
Nine Hats, Sangiovese, Columbia Valley 2008
Biltmore Reserve, Chardonnay, North Carolina 2008 R Collection, Chardonnay, Monterey 2008
Don Olegario, Albarino, Rias Baixas, 2009
Charles de Fere, Cuvee Jean-Louis Brut, NV
Serbal, Bodega Atamisque, Tupungato-valle de uco, Mendoza 2009
Seven Hills, Riesling, Columbia Valley 2009
R collection, lot #7, California 2009
Chateau St Michelle, Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley 2009
Black Stallion, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008
Castello Banfi, Centine, Sauvignon Blanc / Chardonnay / Pinot Grigio,
R collection, Lot # 3, Merlot, California 2007
Raymond, Cabernet Sauvignon, 70% Napa, 24% Sonoma, 6% Lake
Treasure Hunter, Judeâ€™s Vengeance, Cabernet Sauvignon. , Alexander
J Lohr, Falcons Perch, Pinot Noir, Monterey County 2009
Catalpa, Malbec, Bodega Atamisque, Tupungato-valle de Uco, Argentina 2008
Four Vines, Zinfandel, California 2008
Raymond, Chardonnay, Napa 2009
Raymond, Merlot, Napa 2006
Corvidae Wine Co, Mirth, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2009
Renegade Wine Co, Blend, Horse Heaven hills 2008
Forest Glen, Pinot Grigio, California 2009 Craggy Range, Kidnappers Vineyard, Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay, New
Cameron Hughes, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley 2009
Guenoc, Victorian Claret, North Coast 2008
Cucao, PX, Pedro Xeminez, Elqui Valley, Chile 2009
Avalon, Merlot, Napa 2009
Domaine Alfred, Chamisal Vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay, Central
R collection, Lot # 3, Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2008
Owen Roe, Sinister Hand, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Columbia Valley
Dumol, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2008
Corvidae Wine Co, Rook, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2008 Alain Jaume, Domaine de Grand Venture Reserve, Cotes du Rhone 2009 Trivium, Les Irvettes Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena 2007 Mt. Monster, Shiraz, Padthaway 2008
FIND THE WINE PRICE RANGE = $15 or less = $16 to $20
= $21 to $30 = $31 or more
Treana, White, Marsanne / Viognier, Central Coast 2008 Petrol, straw, and metal shavings, touches of oak and sweetgrass, with a chunk O butter Treana, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Paso Robles 2008 Sour black cherry, tobacco, some solid acids, has a smoky woodsy type smell fruit is mouth filling and has a big finish Nine Hats, Meritage, Columbia Valley 2008 Smells like dirty socks, but tastes rich with outrageous berry essence, a little bit of raw tobacco. Its tannic but smoothes out Nine Hats, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2008 Strong black pepper in your face, but tastes like black cherry pie, YUM! Ferrari-Carano, Prevail, West Face, Alexander Valley 2006 Dehydrated beef and prunes, with a bit of muddled mint leaves is all in my nose. It is soft in the mouth almost elegant not a lot of fruit, more acid than usual, Chris said give it some time
Photography by Ande Demetriou
Macrostie, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2008 Woodsy, musky scent of decomposing hay, and apple core. Weight from oak influence layered with heavy and brief Ferrari-Carano, Tre Terre, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2008 Fresh grass, fig, and nutmeg followed by subtle pear, lavender, honey drizzled sourdough finishes butterscotch and peanut brittle, fairly long finish Domaine HouChart, Cotes de Provence 2010 Sharp ethanol nose initially, soften to fresh strawberries, bright kiwi and strawberries, with candied mallow acid driven short finish Castello Monaci, Liante, Salice Salentino 2008 High alcohol gave way to scents of earthy wet mushroom stems and lake water after fresh rain, tart raspberries and plums with a soft light finish lacks body Candor, lot 2, Merlot, Central Coast NV Musty, sweet tarts, and clove. Followed by anise seeds, subtle spice, and hints of tomato puree Nine Hats, Sangiovese, Columbia Valley 2008 Black currant and dark cherries on the nose. Full round mouth, with off-dry finish of earthy clay, toasted cedar, and tobacco
Aubri Luckey Charles de Fere, Cuvee Jean-Louis Brut, NV Very light in color. Nose is crisp with citrus, perfect aperitif. On the tongue you get fuji apple and lingering lemon Seven Hills, Riesling, Columbia Valley 2009 Light in color with tropical notes in the nose, flavors of green apple and pineapple with caramel tones and a nice clean finish Chateau St Michelle, Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley 2009 This was a crisp wine with pear and a quick spicy finish, light straw color with floral aromas Castello Banfi, Centine, Sauvignon Blanc / Chardonnay / Pinot Grigio, Toscana 2009 Light lemon and grapefruit, very interesting with nuts, lime, and oak. Palate pleaser and great patio wine Treasure Hunter, Jude’s Vengeance, Cabernet Sauvignon. , Alexander Valley 2008 Ripe fruit and ruby red color long drying finish with quick hits of bing cherry Catalpa, malbec, Bodega Atamisque, Tupungato-valle de Uco, Argentina 2008 Earthy flavors and vibrant tannins that need food, spaghetti or lamb chops would really showcase this. Scarlet color with plum and fragrance of oak, leather, tobacco, and cola Four Vines, Zinfandel, California 2008 a wine with medium ruby red color, white pepper on the nose, light with plum notes, it has a welcomed dryness alongside a nice texture, fruity light Zinfandel Raymond, Merlot, Napa 2006 This merlot was a beautiful crimson color with a currant and red fruit nose. Silky soft tannins wanting more, would definitely drink this again, especially with Flemming’s Filet
Renegade Wine Co, Blend, Horse Heaven hills 2008 light color, aromas of white pepper, red fruits, and light oak. Tastes of cherries with a relatively light finish, food not required
Photography by Ande Demetriou
Chris Thorn Cameron Hughes, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley 2009 Gooseberry and white peach supported by meyer lemon, grass, and mineral tones. Fleshy with subtle acid, short but zippy finish ending with nice hints of spice Cucao, PX, Pedro Xeminez, Elqui Valley, Chile 2009 Spicy nose with star anise and cracked green peppercorn. Bracing and bright, a smoky tone with citrus, hints of lily and white pepper on the end Domaine Alfred,Chamisal Vineyard, Unoaked Chardonnay, Central Coast 2009 Prickly pear and soft hints of red delicious apple continue from nose to palate, richer than expected mouthfeel , balanced with candied lemon peel on the finish Dumol, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2008 Hot nose with mixed fruits, palate shows light wheat toast , fresh pear, and star fruit followed by lemon verbena and a full round finish. Corvidae Wine Co, Rook, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2008 Purplue hue with anise, black cherry and dust on the nose, aromas follow to the tongue adding plum and a good dose of wood mellows after 15 minutes Alain Jaume, Domaine de Grand Venture Reserve, Cotes du Rhone 2009 Violet and smoked meat, overly red cherry backdropped by hints of vanilla. Balanced between red and black fruits; with a mineral note lingering on the drawn out finish. Bracing acidity but with firm and integrated tannins Trivium, Les Irvettes Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena 2007 Roasted herbed plums with scents of nutmeg and thyme, black berries and a toasted walnut are added with a taste. BIG tannins but oh so smooth in the mouth, it needs time but itâ€™s a winner Mt. Monster, Shiraz, Padthaway 2008 Oak adds a semi complex backdrop for blackberry and a dark bittersweet chocolate, tannin is soft with a finish that holds on for just a few seconds before leaving you with 5 spice rubbed cherries
Gary Burhop Kendall Jackson, Avant, Chardonnay, California 2009 Classic Kendall Jackson Fruit but without the creaminess, an incredibly decent Chardonnay Four Vines, naked, Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2009 Fresh intense fruit alongside citrus and orange, no oak River Aerie, Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley 2009 Pure fruit flavors, clean and crisp with a touch of honey suckle and peach on the finish Jean Basptiste-Adam, Pinot Blanc, Alsace 2009 Lacking nose but has green apple tang, light body Isabel Mondavi, Deep rose of Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2009 Strawberry and grape shared by the nose and palate, Smuckerâ€™s jam on the finish Picket Fence, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2008 A touch of bacon and smoke on the nose, light bodied and strong acidity Wildhorse, Cheval Sauvage, Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley 2007 Cherry and hints of mint on the nose, a little cherry cola but juicy flavors, quite extracted but good balance
Sparkman Cellars, Kindred, Columbia Valley 2008 Very aromatic with currants and a touch of mint. Very dark in color and in mouth feel. The finish is quite spicy and a bit tannic, a little clumsy right now but will likely settle in 6 to 12 months of rest Columbia Crest Grand Estates, Amitage, Columbia Valley 2008 Blackberry and licorice on the nose, medium weight with touches of earthiness, clearly a bit tannic on the finish Elyse, Cest si bon, Naggiar Vineyard, Sierra Foothils 2006 Complex aromas of cherries, dried currant, and cedar. Great flavor with a spicy but smooth finish
Biltmore Reserve, Chardonnay, North Carolina 2008 Wine displays light pale to golden yellow colors, juicy pear and tropical notes accent the nose and the palate, approaching a creamy middle mouthfeel. The finish ends with a nice touch of acid to compliment the abundance of creaminess R Collection, Chardonnay, Monterey 2008 Bright tropical fruit, creaminess flows , oak. Straight forward Chardonnay that gets better with every sip, honeysuckle and light pear with a light butterscotch. Tangy acidity keeps you going back for more Don Olegario, Albarino, Rias Baixas, 2009 Bright green hues with a pale straw yellow background, the nose has simple soft apple and green grass aromas that lead to ripe golden apple and finish with lots of minerality Serbal, Bodega Atamisque, Tupungato-valle de uco, Mendoza 2009 Rose season is about to hit in high gear and this is definitely a great example without being overdone. The hue is darker than most but with bright fruit a plenty. Starts off with cherry and bright berries that follow through to the palate with a touch of watermelon. Bracing acidity on the finish melds effortlessly with the juicy flavors
R collection, lot #7, California 2009 Dark ruby color is intense. The nose matches the palate perfectly, with concentrated blackberry, cassis, and a dusty quality. Needs a couple years to flesh out. Black Stallion, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008 This wine has a herbal quality on the nose that adds a dimension to the intense fruit on the palate, exploding with dark plum, baking spices, and berry jam. Refined, delicate tannins do not interfere with the vanilla and cocoa flavors on the finish. A most powerful wine without being a fruit bomb R collection, Lot # 3, Merlot, California 2007 Light ruby with aromas of black cherry, leather, dark chocolate, and essence of tea leaves. Not overly tannic with a balance of alcohol and fruit, toasty oak and blackberry, a pleasure even without food Raymond, Cabernet Sauvignon, 70% Napa, 24% Sonoma, 6% Lake County 2007 Brilliant color, aromas of blackberry and red plum. A medium body with outright appealing drinkability. Structured with a healthy use of oak and natural fruit. Finishes with an earthiness, black plum, and vanilla. J Lohr, Falcons Perch, Pinot Noir, Monterey County 2009 Aromas of bing cherry, cola, and cranberry, very fruit forward. Palate matches the nose exuding the cola, cherry, and adds a touch of toasty oak. Nice and light with a touch of silkiness
Raymond, Chardonnay, Napa 2009 Golden color with aromas of cooked apple, cinnamon, caramel and canned pineapple. Palate shows sweet apple cider, buttercream, and marsh-mellow. Alcohol is apparent and slightly unbalanced with star anise and cinnamon baked apple on the finish Corvidae Wine Co, Mirth, Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2009 Silver-gold in color, aromas of green apple, lime and lemon zest, and a little wet rock. Palate shows round and bright, crisp pink lady apple a hint of creaminess in the mid with watering acidity but not overpowering Forest Glen, Pinot Grigio, California 2009 Aromas of dried lime peel, citrus, lemon verbena, and chalk. Palate is refreshing, light distinct lemon flavors with soft mid acidity is present but mostly as a backdrop until shining on the finish, as does a note of bittersweet fruit
Craggy Range, kidnappers vineyard, Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand 2010 Silver color with aromas of lemon curd, limestone, tomato, and lime zest. Palate shows preserved lemon, round mid palate, bright mouthwatering acidity. Crisp and nervy without being austere finish is long with white pepper and a mild jalapeno style spice Guenoc, Victorian Claret, North Coast 2008 Dark purple with a deep core. Aromas of black raspberries, star anise, cinnamon, cola and currant jam. Palate shows chalky tannins with cocoa, black currant. The textured finish is gripping but not heavy or overwhelming with a hint of fennel seed, there is a lovely bittersweet note that lingers Avalon, Merlot, Napa 2009 Rugy-purple, aromas of chocolate covered raspberries, cinnamon, and brandied cherries. Palate shows green olive pits and sweet cherry. Lacking in the mid with alcohol on the finish R collection, Lot # 3, Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2008 Ruby colored with some purple hues, raspberry and light smoke followed by a soft simple elegance with little to no tannin present
Owen Roe, Sinister Hand, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Columbia Valley 2009 Dark purple in color with deep expressions of blueberry, graphite, raspberry, violet, and a hint of smoke. Taste is reminiscent of a simple Southern French country red blend. Pungent fruit & spice notes. Bright acidity, bittersweet, and fennel seed flavors. At first sip itâ€™s a bit tight but gives the impression that it will open into a plush, luxurious wine.
The Grove Grill 4550 Poplar avenue, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Sauvignon Blanc-SemillionMuscadelle, Chateau Bonnet N/V, France Sauvignon Blanc-Semillion-Muscadelle, Chateau Bonnet N/V, France: Paired with WOOD FIRED OYSTERS with lemon garlic butter and pecorino cheese When my wine manager Terry Allen and I first tasted the Chateau Bonnet, a French Wine made with sauvignon blanc, semmillion and muscadelle, the first thought we had was “oysters”. Fresh and lemony, this wine has a perfectly balanced, full body that is well-structured and has a long finish. The aromatic persistence is remarkable, and the notes of citrus fruits and yellow peaches linger on the palate. The Wood Grilled Gulf Oysters I have paired with this wine are topped with garlic butter and grilled to perfection. Wood grilling is a great way to prepare oysters, lending the dish a slightly smoky finish that contrasts beautifully with the Chateau Bonnet. My Executive Chef Josh Perkins and I added these oysters to our menu after several requests from our guests, and I’m very glad we did.
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Tallulah ’07 “Les Trois Voix”, Amador Co. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Tallulah ’07 “Les Trois Voix”, Amador Co.: Paired with MAHOGANY ROASTED DUCKLING, grilled vegetables, peach bbq glaze and tart cherry sauce For years I have thought that wine blends often create the most successful food-wine pairings. The Tallulah ’07 “Les Trois Voix”, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre is such a wine. The Grove Grill’s signature Mahogany Roast Duck and fruit flavored sauces work very well with this slightly earthy, fruit forward wine. The mélange of summer berries fills the mouth with amazing continuity, and culminates with youthful tannins and an extended finish that accentuate the rich flavors of the duck. When I tasted this wine with Hal Crenshaw, one of the winery’s owners and former partner in The Grove Grill, I knew I had to serve it with roast duck.
Lunch - Dinner - Sunday Brunch Over 50 wines by the glass
MEMPHIS CHEF’S GRILLING
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BISON FLANK STEAK WITH SHALLOT BORDELAISE This is a really simple dish that has good “wow” factor. Both because of the exotic meat, and the flavor. The big factor in this, and other grilled items is the smoke flavor from the grill, and the marinade. I came up with this dish for the Memphis Wine and Food Society for a dinner we are doing at Circa. When cooking with wine, you do have to consider the fattiness, the spice or heat and the relative sweetness. Herbs and garlic feature prominently in this dish, and along with the marbling of the meat and charred flavor. I would choose either a nice earthy, tannic Malbec, or a robust Rhone red for this dish. You certainly could substitute other meat such as beef flank steak, ribeye, or strip and simply adjust the cooking time to each cut. Bison Flank Steak with shallot bordelaise: (serves 4-6, depending on their appetite!)
1. Take all the ingredients except the oil and put in blender or food processor. Blend together into a paste, then with the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil to make a homogenous paste.
Add the pan drippings and the glace de viande and the water, reduce by half over high heat. Add the wine, and reduce by half again.
2. Rub the marinade over the meat and store in plastic wrap or a ziplock bag for 2-3 hours, overnight would be fine too.
Now comes the tricky part - taste. It should be good at this point, but a few guidelines - if it tastes watery or of wine - reduce it more.
3. With your grill very hot but not flaming up, grill the steak for about 2 minutes on one side and flip over to a fresh area of the grill and cook for two more minutes. Repeat this twice for a total of four minutes on each side. This will give nice grill pattern, and about 8 minutes total cooking time and a rareto-medium rare temperature.
If it is salty, add a little water and stop. Season as needed with salt and pepper.
Important: let the meat rest in a pan for at least 5-10 minutes. You need to collect the drippings, and the meat will be more tender. It is not important that the meat be super hot when served, as it will be sliced thin and served with a hot sauce. Sauce: 4-5 large shallots thinly sliced into rings
1 Bison Flank Steak
2 cups strong red wine - Cabernet,
1 Hot grill - (charcoal is better, but gas
Rhone, Malbec would be best
is fine too)
1 tablespoon butter, plus another 4-5
tablespoons for finishing
½ Cup Olive Oil
Pan drippings from the steak, and
4-5 Cloves Fresh Garlic, minced/
maybe a teaspoon of store-bought
glace de viande (gourmet markets will
1 Tablespoon Sambal Oelek Chili Paste
(asian section of grocery)
1 Cup water
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Salt, white pepper
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 teaspoons Kosher or Sea Salt
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons ground White Pepper
1 Tablespoon cornstarch mixed with
1 teaspoon Cracked Black Pepper
3-4 tablespoons of cold water (slurry)
2 Tablespoons Dijon Mustard
In a saucepan cook the shallots and herbs in the butter until well clarified and a little brown. Be careful not to burn it, because it will ruin the flavor.
2 Tablespoons Worchestershire Sauce 1 Tablespoon Soy Sauce
With the sauce boiling add a little of the slurry at a time until the sauce has a slightly thicker consistency and when it “comes together” remove from heat. Gently stir in the remaining butter while the sauce is hot. Remove the herb stems, and adjust salt/pepper a final time. Keep warm, but do not boil. To serve: Slice the steak very thinly - 2-4 millimeters across the grain - this is very important, otherwise you will be eating rubber bands. Hold a long and very sharp knife at about a 15 degree angle - almost parallel with the table to slice, this will give nice slices about twice as wide as the steak is thick with a large portion of the rare center in each one. Spoon a bit of sauce over each portion. The well done bits on the edges are the best - so eat them yourself before serving the rest, and if you don’t like this, you might be a vegetarian.
Circa by John Bragg Chefs Grill Recipe
Houston’s Restaurant Chefs Grill Recipe Chef Eduardo Murillo
BONE-IN RIBEYE WITH HOMEMADE WORCHESTERSHIRE SAUCE SERVED WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH VINAIGRETTE AND BLUE CHEESE Bone-in Ribeye seasoned with salt and pepper grilled to desired temperature. Drizzle with Worchestershire sauce before serving. Cut heirloom tomatoes, drizzle with vinegrette, salt and pepper, top with blue cheese. Worchestershire Sauce
¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese Cook broccoli rabe in large lot of boiling salted water for 3 minutes. Drain and shock in ice water. Drain again and pat dry. Heat olive oil in a medium large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add broccoli rabe and saute until heated through, season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and sprinkle 4 tablespoons of the cheese over and toss to combine. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese
lemon tamarind ginger cider vinegar
Bar None Chefs Grill Recipe
GRILLED FREE- RANGE CHICKEN BREAST PAPAYA-AVOCADO RELISH, PURPLE SWEET POTATO, MANGO- HABANERO VINAIGRETTE AND FRIED PLANTAIN
brown sugar Vinaigrette Olive oil spicy mustard
2ea 4oz Free-Range Chicken breasts Season with salt and pepper and Grill till done
Papaya- Avocado Relish
½ cup diced papaya
1/3 cup diced avocado
Wine pairings White - Cakebread Chardonnay Red - Provenance Rutherford Cabernet Elfo’s Chefs Grill Recipe Chef Alex Grisanti
16 OZ. BONED IN VEAL CHOP Ingredients
1 tab diced red onion
2 1/2 tsp. sugar 3/4 tsp. black pepper 1/4 tsp. ground cumin 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 4 6oz-8oz pieces flanks steak 1. Stem and seed dried chiles and put them into a bowl; cover with boiling water to let soften for 30 minutes. 2. Drain and transfer to blender along with garlic, 3 tbsp. water, cider vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper, cumin, and cinnamon. Purée until smooth. 3. Rub mixture over steaks. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. 4. Grill on medium charcoal grill until desired temp.
1 tsp. lime juice
3 Tbsps. Chopped cilantro
½ tsp. salt
4 Tbsps. Lime Juice
1 tab olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
Combine and toss lightly
1. Peel back corn husks and remove silk. Place 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pepper on each piece of corn. Close husks. Leave extra butter for corn when done
1 tsp. Cilantro
1 tsp. Diced shallot
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 1/2 tbsp. cider vinegar
8 Tbsps. butter, softened
2 oz. mango puree
¼ cup olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp. champagne vinegar
8 dried ancho chiles
4 ears corn
½ tsp. diced habanero
2 pounds broccoli rabe, tough stems
For the Rub and steaks:
1 tsp. honey
Ground course salt and pepper
Yield 4 servings
For the Corn:
Serve with Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Pecorino Romano Cheese
CHILE RUBBED FLANK STEAK AND GRILLED CORN WITH CILANTRO LIME BUTTER
1 tab chopped cilantro
Combine olive oil, rosemary, thyme and garlic in a bowl. Coat chop well, marinate and season with salt and pepper. Grill chop for 2 minutes on each side. Place in oven at 500 degrees for 12 minutes. Remove chop and let rest for 5 minutes.
Chef Drew Bryan
1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
corn syrup pickling spice
208 Chefs Grill Recipe
1 tsp. lime juice 1 tsp. honey 1 oz. oil Combine and puree Fried Plantain Peel and slice into 1/8 of an inch strips. Fry at 350 degrees till crisp and goldern, then season with salt Pair with Slatestone Reisling 2006
2. Wrap each ear of corn tightly in aluminum foil. Place on the prepared grill. Cook approximately 30 minutes, turning occasionally, until corn is tender.
harcoal grills, backyards and causal gatherings with friends can only mean one thing - summer has arrived. You want to serve wine instead of beer but not sure how to do it - or if it‘s appropriate. The first rule is to drink what you like, after that - there are no hard and fast rules, just generalities. You want to match the intensity of the food to the intensity of the wine, which for cookouts is serving wines that are bold and uncomplicated. When grilling most of us think about red meat with a lot of fat, smokey flavors, a little steak sauce, and some black pepper, Maybe the all American favorite of a steak or a burger with rich cheese melted on top. This calls for a wine with body and spice such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or a robust Zinfandel. If your using lots of BBQ
sauce a Washington Merlot will fit in perfectly. A leaner red meat calls for a rich fruit Syrah. It’s absolutely OK to cool down a red wine on a hot evening, if served too hot it can taste like alcohol and you’ll miss all the lingering notes. For something lighter like grilled fish or chicken with a herb marinade, and grilled vegetables, a Sauvignon Blanc pairs well, and don’t rule out Rieslings, or blends. Grilled fruits and chicken smothered in BBQ will retain some of the smoke from the grill. Try Santa Barbara Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. If your still not sure what to serve, in general - reds go better than whites, but experiment and keep notes. You don’t want to start over next summer but to build on what you’ve learned.
COOKING WITH WINE BY DREW BRYAN
s a chef I am asked about cooking with wine constantly. The most common questions concern the quality of wine used in cooking. Do you have to use an expensive wine? If I use a cheap wine, will it make the preparation taste badly? Cooking with the expensive wine HAS to make my dish taste better, right? These are some of the more common questions about the subject. While the common misperception is that the more expensive the wine the better the flavor it will impart on food, the truth is it will only add very little, if any, added flavor to the end product. There is one guarantee: the use of a bottle of wine such as Caymus, Silver Oak or Cakebread to braise short ribs or reduce for a sauce, would be a waste of a great bottle of wine! The biggest difference in the most common kinds of wine used in cooking, table wine and cooking wine, is the salt. Cooking wine, or commercial wine, has salt added to the wine when it is processed. This added salt helps mainly in the shelf life of the wine itself; however, it does take away from the taste enough for the product not to be used typically in drinking. Here are some basics you should know about cooking with wine: A very dry wine has very few natural sugars remaining, and is usually
higher in alcohol. In contrast, the sweeter wines still contain a larger amount of natural sugar from the grapes. So choose the type of wine depending on the flavor you want in the dish you’re making. “Acid” is a term used to describe both red and white wines, and it refers to the sharp bite in the wine (much like you would experience with lemon juice or vinegar). Acid can help bring out the natural flavors in a mild food, such as fish. Tannins are generally found in red wines; this word refers to the bitter element or the element that has the ability to dry out your mouth in the wine. The tannins in red wine pair well with strongly flavored dishes and hearty foods, like a nice, juicy steak. Tannins will act like palate cleansers when paired with foods high in protein, such as meat. Generally, it’s thought that a light-flavored wine goes best with delicately flavored foods. It would follow that a bold-tasting wine might do well in a boldly flavored dish. Don’t be afraid to do your own thing, but generally, light-colored meats like chicken and fish, are paired with light-colored wines (white)
while dark-colored meats, like beef and duck, are paired with dark-colored wines (red). What about the “other white meat?” You can serve either red or white with pork. Red wines go well with hearty or highly seasoned foods, such as beef, pork, game, duck, goose, and pasta dishes, while white wines tend to work with dishes containing chicken, turkey, fish, shellfish, ham, and veal. It’s important to consider not only the type of meat, but the way the meat is prepared when choosing a wine to use in cooking. Here are some of the subtle food-like flavors that can come through in wine which you may want to capitalize on by adding some to dishes containing these foods: White wine: melon, apple, pineapple, pear, citrus, vanilla, caramel, olives, and mushrooms Red wine: berries, peaches, currants, plums, cherries, oranges, chocolate, and coffee The biggest secret to cooking with wine: Have fun! Feel free to experiment when cooking or baking with wine. Once you feel comfortable cooking with wine, get creative and try to invent new flavor combinations. And, after you’ve created something spectacular, don’t forget to write down how you did it!
Jim’s Place Grille 3660 S. Houston Levee Road Suite 112, Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Char grilled lamb with southern greens and orzo with Two Angels Petite Sirah Two Angels Petite Sirah, North Coast: Lamb has always been a tradition in our family, starting with my great grandmother back in Greece where they would make slow roasted lamb and local greens, after our family moved stateside, the essence stayed the same but the dish slowly evolved. My Grandmother would cook greens all day with ham hock, molasses, and subtle Cheyenne and she would roast the lamb in the oven, on occasion she would make simple orzo. We wanted that Greek tradition, but to allow it to fuse with the southern influence as well. Jims Place East was an open fire char grilled type, so we started char grilling the chops; we still do an all-day green with ham hock, but have dressed up grand ma’s orzo with red bell pepper, thyme and hints of sage. In true Greek fashion a little olive oil, feta cheese, and some kalamata olives just add that little flare. For wine I like to go with Two Angels Petite Sirah from the North Coast with light hints of game and savory herbs. This is a wonderful pairing against the smokiness of the lamb. The dark rich fruits harmoniously balance against the acidity from the country greens and the background of the wine is brought forward by the hints of sage hiding in the rice
3660 South Houston Levee Road, Suite 112 Collierville, TN 38017
www.jimsplacegrille.com firstname.lastname@example.org You can also find us on facebook- Jim’s Place Grille.
Secrets of the
pricing $ As a restaurateur, one often gets caught in the position of being a guest driven host and still maintaining solid business practices that keep the doors open and the lights on year after year. The one thing that causes us difficulty in this arena is usually centered on the beverage program. How can we be decent to our customers if they feel they are being taken advantage of?
The argument of wine list markups is as old as the restaurant business, but what truly is fair; 300%, 175%, or should it be 25%? A current standard floats somewhere in the range of 220 – 280% …that’s outrageous, right? Hold on and let’s break those costs down for just a second. Customers are base lining the “market price” on what liquor stores advertise and sell products for; restaurants don’t usually sell any one particular item in the same volume as any retail establishment, for example if a restaurant sells 100-150 cases of a certain mid-range wine, liquor stores most likely sell the same wine at a rate of 400-500 cases a year. Who do you think is getting the better purchase price in the beginning? It is business and economics 101. So, as we evaluate the price structure, what costs $20.99 in a liquor store is going to cost closer to $50 or $60 in a restaurant. First the retail store purchased that bottle for around $14.50 and then they charge tax at the register for a total of $22.98, so essentially they work on a 30% margin ($6.49 profit) which is not bad for retail,
considering overhead is very limited; building, utilities, and basic payroll. Now assume that same bottle is sold to a restaurant who is buying it for closer to $16.75 (15% higher) now assume the sale price to the consumer is $54…24.25% automatically goes to the state 9.25% sales tax and the 15% sin tax so the restaurant brought in $41. So, now we have a 70% margin of profit but let’s look at overhead. In addition to the basics there is also a higher paid manager, sommelier preferably, temperature controlled storage, nice wine glasses (Riedel or something equivalent; which customers never think twice about if they break them at $10 apiece) How about the couple thousand a year in waste and spoilage because we offer a by the glass program, or the water bill for washing those glasses and decanters, the ice for chilling white wines? After all that I’m down to around a 23-35% margin, which if you haven’t stopped reading by now is at times less than retail stores and they didn’t even open or pour it for you!
1. Bulletin Board or Trivet
- the directions are the same for both - just the size changes. Start with a large frame for the bulletin board, a smaller frame for the trivet. Make sure the frame has a sturdy cardboard backing. Lay our your corks in a pattern on the backing - remember some corks are larger, some are fatter - make a pattern with the corks either in a circle, crosshatch, or all one way. Look at brick patterns for inspiration. Glue the corks to the backing with white glue and let dry overnight. Enjoy!
2. Place Card Holder
- Lay 2 corks together side by side, long sides together; wrap a piece of raffia or wire around them to hold the 2 together, cut a horizontal slit with a utility knife across the corks. Insert your place card.
3. Napkin Ring - Drill a hole through the middle of the cork, with a large embroidery needle thread raffia or ribbon through the cork and tie around the napkin.
4. Knife Rest
- Glue several corks together side by side and place in a kitchen drawer. The knives will slip into the crevices between the corks to protect the blades.
- Glue one or two corks to the backing of an ornament size picture frame, you can either glue the frame to the lid of your sewing box or place in your sewing box to keep your pins together.
- Drill 2 holes in each cork horizontally. You can cut the corks in half so they lay flat on the floor or keep them round. String the corks together with nylon thread or fishing line to make the desired size of bath mat.
7. Door stop
- Cut a cork in half lengthwise at an angle to form a wedge. Push half of it under the door to keep it open or securely closed. Great for hotels because it is lightweight and will go through airport security.
8. Pour Spout
- Cut a small wedge out of the length of the cork and insert it inside a bottle of olive oil or vinegar. This will keep the liquid from pouring out too fast.
9. Fishing Bobber
- Make a small hole in the middle of the cork with a drill and string it onto your fishing line for an easy bobber.
10. Fire Starter
- Soak corks in a jar of rubbing alcohol. Next time you need a fire started, put a few beneath the logs and newspaper to use as a fire starter.
11. Mulch - Put your corks in a food processor and grind them up to small particles. Add to your potted plants or your garden as mulch.
12. If youâ€™re not a crafty person -
you can recycle them - www.recorkit.org
When it comes to evaluating wine, your sense of smell is most important. Our ability to detect aromas is much more acute than our sense of taste, and wines contain thousands of scents and only a handful of tastes. More than 800 different aroma compounds have been identified in wines, making it perhaps the most aromatically complex food or beverage we encounter. When describing wine, experts will often refer to aromas that include fruits such as lemon, peach and cherry; spices such as nutmeg and black pepper; vegetables or herbs such as green pepper and mint; and non-foods such as tobacco or smoke. Numerous chemical compounds are responsible for these aromas. Some compounds come from the grapes; most form during fermentation and some develop during maturation. But what if, when you stick your nose in a glass, all you smell is … wine? How do you get better at identifying all the distinctive aromas that characterize the reds and whites you drink? When they sniff a wine, experts activate their memory banks, comparing what’s in front of them with aromas they’ve experienced in the past. You can build your memory bank by carefully concentrating on the aromas you experience day to day, from the contents of your spice rack and refrigerator to the flowers and grass in your yard. You can also purchase a wine aroma kit to help you study. But it’s easy, cheaper and even more effective to make your own set of aroma standards, using inexpensive wines and items you may already have at home or can pick up at your supermarket. You can enlist your local wine retailer to help you pick out neutral wines to serve as a base. Once you have experienced known aroma standards in a neutral wine, you will find it easier to identify those aromas when you encounter them in more complex wines.
Supplies • One glass for each aroma standard you plan to make • One bottle of an inexpensive, neutral white wine such as Pinot Grigio or Colombard is enough to make 10 to 12 white wine aroma standards • One bottle of an inexpensive, neutral red wine such as Merlot or Beaujolais is enough to make 10 to 12 red wine aroma standards
Directions • Mark each glass so you know which aroma it will contain; write the name of each aroma on a small sticker (the removable kind are best) and label each glass. • Pour 2 ounces or 4 tablespoons of wine into each wineglass. • Add the indicated amount of each aroma ingredient to its own glass of wine and let it soak for an hour or so. • After the hour is up, remove any solid ingredients. • Swirl and sniff each glass of wine so you can become familiar with the aroma that has been added to it. • Next, test yourself by transferring each sticker to the bottom of its glass where it can’t be read. • Then shuffle the glasses. Swirl and sniff the standards. Can you identify any of them?
White Wine Aroma Lemon.................... A small portion of fresh lemon peel and one teaspoon lemon juice Grapefruit.............. A small portion of fresh grapefruit peel and one teaspoon grapefruit juice Pineapple.............. One teaspoon pineapple juice Melon..................... A chunk of ripe cantaloupe Peach.................... A chunk of ripe peach or one tablespoon syrup from canned peaches Pear........................ A chunk of ripe pear or one tablespoon syrup from canned pears Green grass........... Three crushed blades of green grass Honey.................... One teaspoon honey (stir to dissolve) Vanilla.................... One drop vanilla extract Nutmeg................. A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Smokey Oak.......... One drop Liquid Smoke, available in many supermarket spice sections
Red Wine Aroma Strawberry............. Two crushed ripe or frozen strawberries Strawberry jam..... One teaspoon of strawberry jam (stir to dissolve) Cherry.................... Two crushed ripe cherries or a tablespoon of juice from canned cherries Mint........................ One drop of mint extract or a crushed mint leaf (spearmint or peppermint) Green Pepper....... A quarter of a green pepper, diced Black Pepper........ A few grains of freshly ground black pepper Chocolate............. One teaspoon of powdered cocoa or shaved chocolate Coffee.................... About 1/8 teaspoon ground coffee Tobacco................ One small pinch of cigarette or pipe tobacco Vanilla.................... One drop vanilla extract Smokey Oak.......... One drop Liquid Smoke, available in many supermarket spice sections
5040 Sanderlin Avenue Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117 Interim Restaurant and Bar
5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com
Photography by Norman Gilbert Photography, LLC
Sancerre, Remy Pannier, Loire, 2009 paired with the Stuffed Mountain Trout Sancerre, Remy Pannier, Loire, 2009 paired with the Stuffed Mountain Trout: The 2009 Remy Pannier Sancerre, arguably the most balanced white wine we pour by the glass, has hints of grapefruit with a lemon undertone which marries well with the brioche, fennel and onion in the stuffing without masking the flavor of the delicate North Carolina rainbow trout. This medium bodied French sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley has enough depth to battle with the garlic vinaigrette surrounding the dish. This region’s chalky, flinty soil lends to a crisp finish that is welcomed with not only the rainbow trout but almost all fish.
Pinot Noir, Adelsheim, Willamette Valley, 2009 paired with Goat Cheese Terrine Pinot Noir, Adelsheim, Willamette Valley, 2009 paired with Goat
Interim R E S TAURANT & BAR
5040 Sanderlin Avenue 5040 Sanderlin Avenue | 901.818.0821 Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117
A BRIEF RESPITE IN TIME
5040 Sanderlin Avenue Memphis, TN 38117 901-818-0821 | interimrestaurant.com Lunch
Cheese Terrine: Local goat cheese from award winning Bonnie Blue Farms (Waynesboro, TN) is the star of this dish. Adelsheim Pinot Noir represents what “Oregon style” pinots are all about. Light raspberry and pomegranate on the palate with earthy notes and spice on the finish. The earthiness of the wine is a natural match to earth veggies like the beets and local peas. This wine has enough silky tannins to stand up to but not knock over the flavors of the surprisingly mild goat cheese terrine. The nutmeg and cinnamon flavors of this 2008 release play off of the bitterness of the arugula. The components separately interimrestaurant.com help this wine show well but the real complexity and layers come out when all flavors and elements are in the mouth together.
- Memphis Wine Resources -
Amerigo Italian Restaurant
With a casual atmosphere, Amerigo is cozy and upbeat with personalized, polished service and fresh, high quality food and wine. Our wood-fired grill and wood-fired oven cooking set our passion for preparing the finest traditional Italian ingredients with an American and Mediterranean twist.
Elfo’s speaks of a time-honored tradition of excellence begun by Alex’s great-grandfather Rinaldo in 1903. Rinaldo Grisanti followed by his sons and then their sons have established the Grisanti name and the fine tradition of La Famiglia Grisanti Tuscan Cuisine.
Elfo’s: Defined by our name!
Bari Ristorante e Enoteca
Erling Jensen, The Restaurant
Bari Ristorante e Enoteca is the only restaurant in Memphis featuring the regional Italian cuisine from Puglia. Jason & Rebecca Severs have truly created a one of a kind restaurant, like no other in Memphis. Our Enoteca is dedicated to Italian wines from almost every region with over 30 by the glass. Our Cheese Menu is gaining a reputation with over 50 Italian cheeses to choose from. Our puglian menu offers lots of fresh seafood, vegetables, homemade pastas, our famous bread, & homemade desserts making Bari a truly special place that focuses on letting the food speak for itself.
For 14 years Erling’s has been a leader in the world of food and wine, setting a high standard for fine dining in Memphis and the Mid-South. Our approach to cuisine is simple: globally inspired and classically executed. We feature the freshest ingredients to produce meals of the finest quality. As the seasons change, we reinvent our menu creating fresh challenges for us and pleasant surprises for you. This approach is embedded in the French tradition and it reflects our commitment to provide our guests with a healthy and imaginative cuisine.
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
Café 1912 is a casual, friendly, sometimes noisy bistro, offering a mix of French, Italian and New Orleans/ Caribbean cuisines at moderate prices. The open kitchen offers a menu that is wide-ranging: soups, salads, crepes, steak, and seafood. The wines are selected to both complement the food and offer the customer a good wine at a moderate price. Offering numerous wines by the glass allows the customer to explore matching different dishes with different wines.
The nationally acclaimed Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar offers the best in steakhouse dining-Prime meats and chops, fresh fish and poultry, generous salads and side orders-with a unique wine list known as the Fleming’s 100, which features over 100 wines served by the glass. Fleming’s is the recipient of numerous prestigious awards, including Wine Enthusiast’s annual Award of Distinction and Wine Spectator Magazine’s Award of Excellence.
Circa by John Bragg
Jim’s Place Grille
Remember the first time you tasted an extraordinary dish, or a unique, exciting new wine? This is Chef John Bragg’s conception of Circa, his restaurant in East Memphis: special culinary moments echoing the excitement and newness of early 20th century dining, transplanted with the Millennial sophistication and global outlook we apply to food and wine today.
Jim’s Place Grille opened in Collierville in 2006. However, it has been a family owned and operated restaurant in Memphis since 1921. Jim’s Place Grille offers handcut steaks, fresh seafood and greek influenced dishes. Aside from the upscale casual atmosphere, it also has a remarkable bar area and a great private dining room for any occasion!
Jim’s Place G·r·i·l·l·e
South of Beale
Le Chardonnay is Memphis’ original Wine Bar & Bistro. Located in Memphis’ historic Overton Square. Here you can expect a large selection of wines by the glass from our award winning Wine List, plus an array of palate-pleasing delicacies in a warm and cozy ambiance. We are known for our excellent food, intimate atmosphere and friendly prices.
S.O.B - South of Beale is Memphis’ first gastropub. A gastropub is like the anti-restaurant, where the quality of food is superb, without the stuffy atmosphere. We pride ourselves on great cocktails, delicious food, and welcoming staff! We are a locally owned business that has our customer’s best interest at heart.
McEwen’s On Monroe
McEwen’s on Monroe is passionate. Passionate about food, passionate about wine, and passionate about creating a place you long to come back to again and again. An eclectic blend of styles with the largest emphasis on Southern food raised to new and unusual heights. Lunch offers a wide array of excellent sandwiches, salads and business entrees, while dinner leans toward the more elaborate and inventive. Our commitment to a relaxed atmosphere and charming personality has enabled McEwen’s on Monroe to become one of Downtown’s most comfortable restaurants.
Sweet Grass is a neighborhood bistro, specializing in low country cuisine. Chef Ryan Trimm tries to use as much local ingredient as possible and the kitchen makes most everything in house. Recently, Sweet Grass added Next Door, a comfortable place to catch the game or grab a drink after work. The menu is composed of creative bar snacks and classic appetizers. Reservations are recommended for Sweet Grass, but Next Door is designed for walk ins only.
The Grove Grill
Napa Cafe is an independent and locally owned restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood, grass fed beef and game. The wine list shares the spotlight and is constantly evolving. One of the unique aspects of the list are the pages with selected wines. The Well Traveled page contains unique varietals from all over the world, Queen of the Vine highlights female winemakers and proprietors and The Organics feature organic and biodynamic wines. Great service is the key to link it all together. The knowledgeable and accommodating staff enhance the whole experience at Napa Cafe.
Best Shrimp and Grits in town! Casual Dining, Fine Cuisine. Call it what you like, it’s always on Memphis’ Best Restaurant list. Executive Chef Joshua Perkins use the freshest fish, the choicest meat and locally grown produce to create a menu including Jumbo Lump Crab cakes, Mahogany Roast Duckling, wood grilled steaks, the best oysters the Gulf has to offer, and Chef’s seasonal “Small Plate” menu. Private dining rooms for 12 to 55. Reservations, 818-9951, 4550 Poplar in Laurelwood Shopping Center, Lunch 11:00 - 2:30, Sunday Brunch and Dinner 5:30 seven days a week.
The Inn at Hunt Phelan
The intimate, well-appointed dining room features fine woodwork and high ceilings, as well as original artwork and abundant fresh flowers. The high windows afford breathtaking views of the Mississippi River in Downtown Memphis, and candlelit tables create a romantic ambiance.
Traditional Southern with a French Twist best describes the cuisine of the Inn at Hunt Phelan. To compliment your meal we offer a well stocked bar and an extensive wine list. Our dedicated staff ensures the finest in Southern Hospitality!
Ruth’s Chris Steak House Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Memphis believes their guests deserve the very best. Each steak is hand-selected and broiled to perfection at 1800 degrees to lock in that delicious flavor. Complement your meal with a selection from our award-winning wine list, featuring over 260 world-class international and domestic labels.
Three Angels Diner Three Angels Diner is in the Historic Broad Avenue Arts District in Midtown Memphis. From the owners of Bari Ristorante comes a diner serving homemade food with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients; menu items range from burgers and fried chicken to vegetarian entrees and lots of vegetables. Full bar and open late! Sunday Brunch.
HOW TO USE EMPTY WINE BOTTLES 2. HUMMINGBIRD FEEDERS – wash out the wine bottle, fill with hummingbird liquid food, fit a hummingbird feeding tube (available at garden supply stores) in the bottle opening, hang outside your window. 3. BOTTLE TREE – If you have a small dead tree or a larger bush in your yard, cut the branches that come off the truck to about 8 inches long, place the bottles on the branch stubs for a decorative tree. 4. CANDLE HOLDER – take taper candles and drip wax down the bottle in different colors. Attach a taper candle to the bottle top and let it drip as you use the candles. The more wax in different colors, the more festive it looks. 5. INFUSED OIL AND VINEGAR – Thoroughly sterilize the wine bottle. Fill with fresh herbs from your garden or farmers market. Pour vinegar or good olive oil in the bottle to fill. Keep in the refrigerator for about two weeks. It should be infused with the flavor of the herbs, use in dressings or marinades. Keep refrigerated so it doesn’t spoil. 6. BATH SALTS – wash and dry the wine bottle, fill with your favorite bath salts. Coordinate the bottle color and bath salt color with your décor. 7. VASE FOR FLOWERS – With a cutting tool, cut the neck of the bottle off and grind the edges to smooth them. You can cut straight across or at a slant for a modern look. 8. HURRICANE – Cut the neck and the bottom of the wine bottle off and smooth with a grinder. Place over a pillar candle for a hurricane. Line a walkway or driveway all in the same color for a striking effect. 9. DRINKING TUMBLERS – cut the neck of the bottle off and smooth with a grinder. Makes great tumblers, especially if the winery has etched anything on the bottle. Make a set using the same wine bottles.
Need to find a use for all those empty bottles around the house or need some new and inexpensive decorating projects? Here’s ten easy ideas to turn those old bottles into beautiful decor items around the house. 1. GARDEN EDGING – dig a trench around a flower bed, place the wine bottles in the trench upside down leaving about 6 inches of the bottle sticking up from the ground. Fill in with dirt around the bottles. Make sure the top of the wind bottles are level and the bottles are straight up and down, this gives a neater appearance. Just don’t hit the bottles with a lawnmower!
10. SHELVES – Take 3 wood pre-made shelves. Drill 2 holes on each end of 2 of the shelves, making sure the holes are large enough for the neck of the wine bottles to fit through. On the 3rd shelf, only drill one hole in each end, again making sure the neck of the bottle fits through. Assemble by placing 4 wine bottles on the floor; fit the first shelf over the four bottles (like when you made shelves with cinder blocks). Then place 2 bottles on top of the shelf, fitting the board with two hole over the bottles, then stack the 3rd shelf over the last 4 bottles. The top shelf needs to have 4 bottles so it is stable. Stack with books or collectibles.
Published on Jun 23, 2011