All about Marbella
THE ROMANCE OF MARBELLA
MARBELLA’S name has long conjured visions of a picture-perfect city of gleaming yachts, designer boutiques and luxury hotels… all with an endless stream of celebrity sightings.
This undeniably glamorous image still pulls in a certain crowd - but a deeper, more compelling story starts to unfold for anyone willing to look beyond the obvious.
As we approach the summer, this ‘sundrenched jewel’ (as it likes to call itself) offers an experience that’s richer and more nuanced than its reputation
By Dilip Kuner
might first suggest.
Just step away from those buzzing marinas and the thrum of high-octane luxury, and you’ll stumble upon a Marbella that time itself seems to have preserved.
The Casco Historico, the old town, is a labyrinth of cobbled streets, their 16th-century origins, some even older, etched into every ancient wall. Hidden along narrow alleys you will find
modern art galleries, brimming with fresh, contemporary creations, sitting comfortably alongside traditional tapas bars, always busy with locals, despite the summer tourist hordes.
Hip boutiques, like long-established Deja Vu, and artisan ice cream parlours invite you for a leisurely exploration - it’s like a treasure hunt for unique finds.
At the heart of this historical haven, you’ll find the Plaza de los Naranjos, aptly named for its fragrant orange trees, which provide a colourful backdrop for countless selfies.
This charming square pulses with life
as locals and tourists mingle to enjoy its attractions.
The 16th-century town hall dominates, an immovable witness to centuries of change. While the immediate vicinity might lean towards the premium side (price-wise), the sheer immersion in this historical ambiance is priceless.
For a moment of quiet reflection, the cool stone walls of the Ermita De Santiago, originally a mosque, offer a peaceful sanctuary that feels like it’s
CREDIT: Pics by Jon Clarke
IDYLLIC
back to 1618, with a stunning Baroque entrance, houses an organ of remarkable complexity – we’re talking 5,000 pipes of pewter, copper, and wood, all played with four manual keyboards.
It’s quite the marvel!
Marbella’s historical roots actually stretch back much, much further. Indeed to Roman times.
Marbella
18th-century defensive tower. The intriguing 6th-century Visigothic church just along the beach in nearby San Pedro offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s diverse religious past. The Romans first settled here way back in 1 AD, and their legacy remains woven into the fabric of the town.
Look closely, and you’ll even find a 1st-century Roman bridge embedded within the Hotel Puente Romano, and the villa site at Rio Verde nearby boasts a magnificent mosaic, recently restored after thieves stole its central Medusa head motif.
just up the road is the very epitome of old world glamour, its mature gardens first planted back in the 1950s and its walls having put up everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Bridget Bardot.
Marbella’s charm lies along its 27 kilometres of coastline
Set up by the German aristocrat Alfonso Hohenlohe (more on whom later), this was THE place for the rich and famous to come and luxuriate in the 1960s. There is nowhere better to get a feel for it than in its historic bar garden in the heart of summer.
purple blossom lighting up the sky in late Spring.
These are the places where locals often gather, especially during feria –though I’m afraid you’ve just missed it; it wrapped up on Sunday! – while cafes and bars offer the perfect spot for a refreshing drink.
Yet, perhaps Mar bella’s most en during charm lies along its 27 kilometres of stunning coastline.
and private jet brokers cater to the absolute pinnacle of high-flying aspirations. Banus is an unashamed melting pot for the rich, the famous, and those ‘Marbella Love Islanders’ wannabes, who, clad head-to-toe in designer attire, flow through the port, especially around exclusive nightclubs like Le Suite and Roberto Cavalli. Just be warned, a round of drinks here could easily
Even older, the Marbella Club
Should the allure of history wane, Marbella’s public gardens step in to provide a verdant embrace.
La Constitucion Park and the Alameda Gardens right in the city centre offer a refreshing escape from the sun’s warm embrace, shaded as they are by verdant trees, including the emblematic Jacarandas, their
FAMED: Marbella is almost as famous for its golf courses as its jet-set elite
WE start our art tour at Marbella’s best known museum. Home to one of Europe’s most important Latin American collections, the Museo Ralli focuses on modern movements, particularly surrealism, with works from a wide range of contemporary artists. Its current temporary show is on show until April 2024.
Ralli Museum ?
WHERE? Urb. Coral Beach, Rio Verde, N-340, km. 176, 29602 Marbella, Málaga
WHEN?
Tuesday to Friday 10:00 to 17:00 h Saturday 10:00 to 16:00 h
From the pristine sandy beaches and gentle dunes of Artola (watch out for the nudists at its western end, while the Cabopino end is popular with families) and Elviria to the distinctly palm-lined paradise of central Marbella, the shore caters to every whim. Whether you’re seeking a languid day soaking up the sun, a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters, an invigorating beach yoga session or the lively DJ sets in the many beach clubs, the local shores offer a perfect escape. For those who crave a touch of unapologetic extravagance, Puerto Banus, Marbella’s famously glamorous district, remains quite the spectacle. Bookmarking one end of the ‘millionaire’s row’ of the Golden Mile, Banus is where the ‘anything goes’ philosophy of Marbella really takes hold. From jubilant hen parties celebrating the final throes of ‘freedom’ for the bride, to members of the ‘1% club’ disembarking from superyachts and Ferraris, the people-watching here is a sport in itself, easily rivalling the vibrancy of Mayfair or Malibu. Luxury brands line every thoroughfare,
Dali
It’s not just hen parties creating an exhibition in Marbella; these three picks will satisfy culture vultures
“To fall in love with an artwork is to recognise your soul through the artist’s mirror” – or so said Marife Nuñez who founded the gallery, and probably knows about these things. Es.Arte is a contemporary gallery with a busy calendar of exhibitions and fairs. As well as exhibiting works by contemporary artists, the gallery also offers consultancy services, helping you find something to hang on your wall.
WHERE?
Av de Manolete, 1, Centro Plaza, Local 11, 29660 Marbella ?
WHEN? Tuesday to Friday 10:30 to 16:00 h Saturday 10:00 to 14:30 h
Gallery
Lord Alan Sugar, Simon Cowell, and members of the Saudi Arabian royal fam ily have long kept villas here.
More recently, Ek (and his deputy) have joined their es teemed ranks, while Eva Longoria, No vak Djokovic, and footballer Eden Haz ard also now call Marbella home. Even world leaders find themselves drawn to its magnetic charm; David Cameron, Tony Blair, and Michelle Obama have all visited in the past de cade, and former Spanish Prime Minis ter Jose Maria Aznar still maintains a villa in Guadalmina.
DISCOVERED
Marbella’s status as a grand re sort traces its origins back to 1946, when German Prince Maximilian de Hohenlo he-Langenburg and his aforementioned son Al fonso ‘discovered’ it quite serendipitous-
Avenida del Mar F
OR an outdoor gallery, head to Avenida del Mar to see some of Salvador Dali’s famous bronze statues. Located on this beautiful marble promenade near the waterfront, these statues include a depiction of Perseus beheading Medusa; the Roman emperor Trajan on horseback; and, changing the mood slightly, a statue of Dali’s wife looking through a window. Also look for nearby sculpture by Eduardo Soriano, a tribute to freedom of speech and expression.
WHERE? Avenida del Mar ?
WHEN? 24 hours a day!
ly during a Rolls Royce breakdown.
Alfonso was so captivated that he bought land and built a house, later selling plots to friends including the Rothschilds and Thyssens and other members of the jet set like Ava Gardner
The Marbella Club, which remains a stalwart on the Golden Mile, hosts many luminaries, including Lady Gaga and Lenny Kravitz, while its equally ritzy neighbour, the Puente Romano, has welcomed a string of A-listers including Robert de Niro, Tyson Fury, and James Hunt, who ended
And if the rich tapestry of culture, the pristine beaches, and the thriving social scene aren’t quite
enough to tempt you to make Marbella your own, then the blossoming culinary scene surely will. Marbella is home to a notable collection of Michelin-starred restaurants, making it an essential pilgrimage for any self-proclaimed ‘foodie’.
While local chef Dani Garcia controversially handed back his three Michelin stars just a few days after winning them a couple of years ago, a couple of joints have two.
They include Marcos Granda’s Skina, which has two Michelin Stars and is tipped for a third this year.
Then there’s Messina, holding one Michelin Star, where Chef Mauricio Giovanini crafts incredibly creative dishes with a global influence. Another must-visit is Nintai, also with one Michelin Star, offering an exquisite Japanese omakase experience, masterfully prepared right before your eyes.
And adding to Marbella’s stellar lineup is BACK, which also proudly holds one Michelin Star, presenting a mod-
ern, bistro-style approach to Andalusian cuisine under the expert guidance of Chef David Olivas. With a vibrant nightlife, a blossoming arts scene, and some of the finest food in the entire region, Marbella lives up to its many names. So, the next time its name pops up, just remember –it’s far, far more
than simply a playground for the rich and famous. It’s a dynamic weave of history, culture, natural beauty, and an irresistible culinary landscape.
Urb El Rosario, Edf Yellow Car , Local 3, Marbella, Malaga, 29600
NEW AND OLD: From modern Puerto Banus to the Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation in the old town, there is something for everybody
WEIRD: Imaginatives statues are scattered through the town
COLOURFUL: Jacarandas are blossoming in abundance
A princely legacy
LAST year marked what would have been the 100th birthday of Prince Alfonso of Hohenlohe-Langenburg.
It is fair to say he wasn't your typical royal.
In the 1940s, he fell under the spell of an unknown sleepy fishing village called Marbella.
Intrigued by its potential, he began buying land, initially for himself. But with a keen eye for opportunity, he saw a chance to share his discovery with his wealthy international circle - and make a handsome profit from the deal.
Marbella owes its reputation as a destination for the wealthy jet-set to one well-connected man
By Dilip Kuner
Madrid-born Alfonso - full name Alfonso Maximiliano Victorio Eugenio Alejandro María Pablo de la Santísima Trinidad y Todos los Santos, Prinz zu Hohenlohe-Langenburg - started by selling plots to his well-heeled friends, the likes of the Rothschilds and Thyssens.
His own residence, Finca Santa Margar-
ita, became a popular gathering spot. Recognising a golden opportunity, he transformed it into the Marbella Club in 1954, the first luxury hotel on the Costa del Sol, and now marking its 70th year.
This wasn't just any hotel. The Marbella Club offered a unique blend of exclusivity and informality.
Its whitewashed villas, nestled amidst lush gardens, exuded a relaxed charm that resonated with Europe's elite. Soon, a steady stream of celebrities, royalty, and socialites found themselves drawn to this glamorous haven.
Sean Connery vacationed there, Ava Gardner partied there, and even King Saud of Saudi Arabia graced the club with his presence.
Marbella Club (now owned by the Shamoon family) became synonymous with luxury, transforming the once-quiet village into a jet-set playground.
Alfonso meanwhile decided to hop it, up into the mountains to nearby Ronda, where he bought an estate and
planted a vineyard, which still produces wine to this day. His family still own
it, while his legacy very much lives on not just in the Mar bella Club, but on the entire Costa del Sol.
Alfonso's vision and entrepre neurial spirit, after all, put Mar bella on the map, ensuring its place as a destination for the rich and famous for de cades to come.
HOME TO HOTEL: The prince’s famous visitors loved his seafront estate so much he turned it into a hotel so they could pay for the privilege of visiting!
FAMOUS VISITORS: Brigitte Bardot (pictured left with Prince Alfonso), King Saud, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Sean Connery were just a few of the ‘names’ to enjoy the prince’s hospitalty
Guiri ARMY
ALEGION of guiris have been awarded for their ‘indispensable’ hard work in Marbella.
The group of business owners, from half a dozen countries, were celebrated during a Europe Day event. They were just some of the thousands of foreign entrepreneurs who live in the resort and were championed for their long successful careers.
Half dozen fabulous foreigners are recognised during Europe Day celebrations in Marbella
He told the Olive Press: “Marbella is a great place to live and has been a big supporter of our business as we’ve grown over the last decade.”
In particular, the event organised by the Delegation of Foreign Residents, celebrated the amount of ‘riqueza’ and, most importantly, jobs they had brought to Marbella.
Two of the biggest employers singled out, AnyTech 365 and the La Sala Group, employ well over 600 workers between them - the major ity Spanish.
Both companies bosses, Janus Nielsen and Ian Radford were there to pick up awards.
Dane Nielsen, has lived in the resort for 20 years, and came initially ‘to play golf’ he admitted to the audience.
His digital security company, AnyTech365, is one of the biggest in Europe now with four offices, two on the Costa del Sol.
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He continued: “Marbella simply wanted to offer something different than just golf, restaurants and vacations, so it became possible for us to become an international company from here.”
One of the main rivals in terms of employment size is the La Sala group, which currently has five businesses in Marbella. Foreign residents department boss Remedios Bocanegra explained how owner Radford had arrived in Marbella in 1989 at just 20 years old to win the Andalucia squash title.
The Brit had previously represented the UK at various padel tournaments in the country.
“And then he dedicated years to organising and bringing
lots of football teams from Scandinavia for winter training in Marbella,” she said, before he opened his first restau -
rant La Sala Beach.
“It’s been a busy, hectic couple of decades,” he told the Olive Press. “I’m sure we have brought something exciting to Marbella and we’ve certainly created a lot of jobs.”
Also celebrated at the Europe Day bash was the boss of dynamic coworking centre, The Pool, Fredrik Bage.
The Swede, who went to school in Marbella and later took holidays in the resort, explained how they had seen a big demand for such a centre, opened on the Golden Mile, two years ago.
“I’m really happy that the town hall has identified us for our project,” he explained.
“We’ve already got 39 nation-
alities working with us, with an even balance of men and women and including Spanish.” He continued: “We are working to change Marbella for people who are working here all year around. It’s not just for tourism, the technology industry is also benefitting.”
Another winner of an award was Alina Asipian, from the Savia Organic Salon, in San Pedro, and behind numerous beauty salons around the resort for two decades.
The businesswoman told the Olive Press: “I’m really honoured to win this award.” Also winning awards was the Norwegian company Antima, as well as the recently set up Forum Marbella on the Golden Mile.
Time to regenerate
FORGET facelifts and juice cleanses - there's a high-tech health trend making waves on the Costa del Sol, and it involves lying still while a €170,000 machine zaps your body with plasma.
It’s called the Human Regenerator Jet, and is the first and only device in the world that regenerates the human body.
It’s the centrepiece of Human Regenerator Marbella, a sleek wellness clinic tucked away just off Marbella’s city centre. The treatment claims to boost energy, slow ageing, and even fight burnout – all without needles, pills, or breaking a sweat.
The secret? Something called Cold Atmospheric Plasma. According to the clinic, the technology works at a cellular level, reducing oxidative stress (the stuff that ages us and tires us out) and giving your body’s cells a serious recharge. It even boosts ATP, the energy your cells need to function.
Sceptical? So were we. But clients – including local celebs and elite athletes –swear by it. “After three sessions, I was
The €170,000 machine that ‘reverses ageing’
sleeping better and waking up feeling sharper,” one regular told us. “It’s like someone flicked the ‘reset’ switch.”
The treatment itself couldn’t be simpler. You lie back in a comfy, capsule-like bed while the machine works its magic. It’s completely painless and takes around 30 minutes. There’s no recovery time, no dramatic side effects - just a strange sense of calm and clarity that lingers long after.
Human Regenerator Marbella is open Monday to Saturday, with appointments available online. One session will set you back €120, which is far less than many cosmetic treatments, and with zero downtime. So, does it really turn back the clock?
The science is still catching up, but one thing’s for sure – this isn’t just another wellness fad. It’s futuristic, it’s fascinating, and it might just be the secret to staying sharp in the Spanish sun.
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CHAMPIONS: Janus Nielsen, Alina Asipian, Fredrik Bage and Ian Radford
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Two prestigious offices on Marbella’s Golden Mile
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IT kicks off with an amazing scene at Trocadero restaurant just up the road in Torrequebrada, then spends the rest of the next few episodes in Marbella. Under its distinctive La Concha mountain, the leafy gardens and golden streets of the resort have never looked more glossy.
This is the BBC’s hit drama, This City is Ours, filmed around Marbella, nearby La Linea and Antequera over a few months last year.
Soon set to start filming a second series, also expected to be on the Costa del Sol, this edgy crime drama has tak-
This resort is OURS!
Jon Clarke on how the critically-received BBC series This City is Ours shows off the Olive Press’ home town in a perfect light (well, sort of)
en the TV watching world by storm with amazing reviews on IMDB (8/10) and an impressive 91% on Rotten Tomatoes.
And it’s one of the very best television series of the last few years (nearly up there with Breaking Bad or Sopranos), with a clever, taut script with plenty of twists and turns and many a shocking moment.
One of the best is when the main star Sean Bean (playing crime boss Ronnie Phelan) gets executed in cold blood,
while lying drunk on a sun lounger by a pool in Nueva Andalucia. It’s a prophetic scene and leads to a battle of wills between his son and Ronnie’s hard-as-
nails deputy, our hero (sort of) Michael Kavanagh (played by James Nelson-Joyce).
The programme - based on a Liverpool drug gang - begins during a tense meeting with the local ‘Amigos gang’, who are based on the Costa del Sol.
Discussing the next shipment of cocaine to Liverpool, should it have a smaller cut for the experienced Spanish mafia, who live in stunning mountain villas around Marbella. Or, as is agreed, the risk of importation taken by the Scousers?
Wrapped in bananas the shipment finally sails through but is then hijacked by the rogue son of Ronnie.
And then the drama really begins.
The scenes in Spain - among the best I’ve watched in my two decades hereshow the coast in a fabulous light and frequently include a good sense of humour.
There is a great line about ‘great cava being better than champagne’ and then a funny incident at a service station on the AP-7 motorway when they can’t get more than a ‘jamon y queso bocadillo’
“It’s always bloody ham and cheese,” moans Kavanagh as he’s driving the dead body of his former boss north to Bilbao.
Understandably the gang are always on the lookout for rivals as well as the law…
“What are Spanish nick’s like these days?” Asks one.
“Can’t be any worse than the Scrubs!” Comes the reply.
The best takeaway - oft repeated - is the line about executed gang member, Davy, who officially is ‘sent to Estepona!’ To take care of some business.
This must surely be a reference to the British father and son, Daniel and Liam Poole, who vanished in Estepona a few years ago.
There are frequent references to Davy ‘going to meet a
friend in Estepona’ and always for some reason in the rival resort to Marbella. Even when they get back to Liverpool by episode four the links to the Costa del Sol continue when they visit a tanning salon and bathhouse called, appropriately, ‘Marbella Sun’.
Are there also coincidences that the hero Michael Kavanagh has the same name as the famous Estepona Kinahan sidekick Thomas Kavanagh. I can’t wait for the second series when I’m sure they’ll be some trips across the pond to Morocco.
STAR TURN: Marbella’s famous La Concha mountain was featured in many scenes
Magnificent seven
SPOTTING stars in Marbella is relatively easy: For 50 years, the biggest names in cinema have chosen the stunning destination to holiday and party together, and the tales of their exploits are legendary. Strangely though, it’s not as easy to find them in a film or TV series based in Marbella or about the glitzy resort.
Luckily though there are a few shows worth watching set in and around the resort, with the most recent appropriately called ‘Marbella’ coming out last year.
Here, we pick out seven, with the earliest pushing its glamorous image with the big developers behind the tourism boom wanting to promote it apart from other popular spots like Benidorm or Benalmadena.
The Only Way is Marbs (2012)
THE cast members of The Only Way is Essex are no strangers to Marbella or the Costa del Sol: this, after all, is their Spanish Essex (although to be fair they are associated with rather more downmar-
ket Mijas these days).
A cringy summer special, The Only Way is Marbs, sees the puffed up crowd jet off to their various holiday homes for fun, fights and frolics in the sun. The line ‘no carbs before Marbs’ became iconic (to them) and you can now find it printed on t-shirts.
Life on Marbs (2015)
AS reality TV shows in the UK got bigger, flashier and more ambitious, it’s inevitable that Marbella appeared on the producers’ radar. The spectacle of ‘influencers’ with lots of cash and problems jetting off to Spain to pursue business interests and party, remains a perennial source of fascination and guilty pleasure for British TV audiences. Life on Marbs features former Only Way is Essex cast members Ferne McCann and Elliot Wright, along with a host of Marbella business owners, models, and fitness trainers.
The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2015):
THIS movie follows Sonny Kapoor as he juggles his upcoming wedding with the ambitious dream of opening a new hotel.
With his loyal staff by his side, the film offers a heartwarming journey of love, self-discovery, and a touch of hilarious chaos.
With a star-studded cast including Dame Judy Dench, Maggie Smith, Richard Gere and Bill Nighy, the filmmakers took viewers on a visual adventure, capturing the spirit of the story in Marbella and Malaga, although the principal Indian location of Jaipur is definitely more exotic.
Rise of the Footsoldier (2019)
DUBBED Britain’s answer to Narcos, it’s fair to say this film, starring Craig Fairbrass and Terry Stone, has not been quite as successful as the multi-award winning multi-season series across the Atlantic. However, the Marbella underworld gets some screen space. Fresh out of prison, an Essex gangster and nightclub owner heads to Marbella to seek revenge on the man who got him put behind bars and winds up with a drug deal. Trouble ensues.
Here, Dilip Kuner presents a list of other locally shot films so you can shout ‘Been there!’
Marbella (1985)
ONE of the earlier cinematic portrayals of Marbella, this 80s romcom was shot 15 years after the opening of Puerto Banus, when the resort was flooded with stars. Starring Rod Taylor and Britt Ekland, the film follows the old trope of a washed-up Brit in search of a better life. Expelled from the Navy for his excessive drinking habits, Commander W.P. Anderson decides to take a second chance at life on the Costa del Sol.
Oh Marbella! (2003)
RELEASED in 2003, and starring Rik Mayall, Tom Bell and Mike Reid, this is a light-hearted caper involving a couple
Oh What a Night!
The Clubhouse in Banus has hosted all the big sporting events over the last year… and as it reaches its first birthday, things are only just beginning
IT all kicked off exactly a year ago at the glorious Euros 2024.
A dream final bringing together Spain and England, the Clubhouse couldn’t have asked for a better month to launch.
Guaranteeing hundreds of supporters from every European country during the four week tournament, keeping these two most important nations in to the end was a dream come true.
A night when the great and the good of the Costa del Sol was present - as well famous names in the world of football, including former England striker Wayne Rooney - the sports bar has just gone from strength to strength since then.
Promising to show almost any game of football, the Clubhouse, which sits below popular La Sala restaurant in Puerto Banus, also televises all the major cricket, golf and rugby games.
Whether you are looking to watch the British Lions down under, a Championship play off final or the
of activists, a hitman with a prostate problem and a slimeball estate agent. It’s an easy watch and funny, and Marbella lovers will be able to relate to the joy each of the characters feels for the place.
The Business (2005)
IT’S not solely set in Marbella, although the film evokes it with a fantastic soundtrack that encapsulates the party vibe of the resort in the 1980s. The Business is narrated by Londoner Frankie, played by Danny Dyer, who grows up in Thatcher’s Britain and dreams of leaving his dull life and becoming someone – specifically someone living the gangster life on the Costa del Crime.
US Masters, this is your spot. Dozens of different places to sit and even more screens, this is a sports bar with an amazing difference.
The luxurious 900 m² space has a multi-million investment and boasts cutting-edge top-of-therange Trackman golf simulators, advanced Dartsee dartboards, and over 50 TVs equipped with Zapping technology.
It has introduced a pioneering self-serve Mahou beer system, allowing guests to refill their glasses at their tables. There is complimentary valet parking.
In particular, it also shares a kitchen with the award-winning 15 year established La Sala restaurant upstairs.
So whether you are just looking for a pizza in their Napolitan oven, or something more elaborate, the quality is guaranteed.
The sports bar launched in June last year with fire dancers, champagne and a string of former premiership footballers, who are investors in the business.
the party really got started. Winks, 28, who is a regular visitor to Marbella, told the Olive Press: "I love Marbella and this place is going to be amazing,” he said. “I'm only a really small investor but I'm sure it will pay back.” David Bentley added: “This is the first really decent sports venue of its type in Marbella. It's great to be here and still involved.”
The luxurious 900 m² space has a multi-million investment
They included four Spurs legends David Bentley, Dean Austin, Stephen Carr and Harry Winks, who is now playing at Leicester.
The aces were on hand to ensure
Other former stars in the house were Paul Robinson, Chris Hugues and popular TV pundit Alex Scott. La Sala boss Ian Radford, told the Olive Press: “It was touch and go that it would be ready in time for the Euros, but we somehow got it over the line.
“We couldn’t have asked for a better kick off and the year has flown past.”
To coincide with the landmark first anniversary,
BEST VENUE: for sports, food and drink
HOST TO THE STARS: Wayne Rooney and former England footballer, and Sala Group shareholder, David Bentley have been spotted at The Clubhouse
IN MY EYES
IForget the healthy smattering of Michelin stars, Marbella has dozens of amazing unsung chefs and, easily the highest quality restaurant scene in Andalucia, writes Jon Clarke
’VE seen Robert de Niro, Michelle Obama and footballer Ronaldo dipping into restaurants in Marbella over the last two decades.
I even spotted Hugh Grant (see pic) as he swirled, then dipped his beak, into a flinty white wine sitting on a scenic restaurant terrace in the Casco Historico.
Marbella is certainly the place to go star-spotting, particularly in the
showbiz stars descend on the resort.
But forget these stars, for as a food critic and author of a restaurant book on Andalucia, I’m much more interested in the actual chefs themselves.
Since launching the Olive Press nearly 20 years ago, I’ve been luckily invited to numerous events, launches and competitions involving the world’s best chefs.
Thanks to one event, A Cuatro at Puente Romano hotel, I was able to interview French legend
Joel Robuchon, before his untimely death a few years later.
I also got to grill Daniel Humm, of New York’s Eleven Madison Park while El Bulli legend Ferran Adria generously gave me ten minutes to discuss Spanish cuisine. He waxed lyrical about how the Iberian food revolution had rapidly spread down south since his Catalan restaurant was voted the ‘world’s best’ for a record five years by Restaurant Magazine between 2002 and 2009. And the list goes on with three-Michelin star geniuses Joan Roca, of
Celler de Can Roca, Valencia’s Quique Dacosta and,
FOOD FIT FOR STARS: De Niro, Ronaldo, Obama and Grant are just some of the big names to have enjoyed more than a meal or two in Marbella, while Jon has made friends with numerous top chefs
CHIC: Marbella restaurants tend to be stylish , with innovative food
this year, Jesus Sanchez, of Cenador de Amos, telling the Olive Press about his love of Marbella and the Costa del Sol.
And I even got to rub shoulders again with the Godfather of Spanish cuisine, Pedro Subijana from Arzak, at the successful Chefs for Children event in nearby Benahavis in April.
He couldn’t have been more complimentary about the nearby coast, marvelling at ‘how rapidly’ things had changed and improved in Malaga in general.
And yes, fried fish might well be the celebrated dish on this coastline, but in Marbella, it is anything but, its legion of chefs preferring to gently nurture and coax the best out of the celebrated local produce. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the many restaurants of the Metro Group, including Nomad and CHOW (see review) where executive chef Stan Rozbitsyy is given a free reign at the group’s dozen restaurants in the resort, to only source the best ingredients and hire the best chefs. “It has to be this way if you want to be able to compete at the highest level in Marbella,” he explains. “The level of quality has risen hugely over the last decade and you
need to work hard to keep up.”
This is Europe’s ritziest resort for the super rich, after all, and while most Olive Press readers will need to really save up to eat at Nobu or say, two Michelin star Skina, there are plenty of cheaper spots if you’re in the know.
Look out for places like Gaspar, Inch and Contracata, run by Jose Godoy, who landed the first Michelin star for a Spanish restaurant in England, or Casa
WELCOME: Nomad has a top selection of wines and a classy atmosphere
Albero just up the road.
Indeed, if you head just south of the Casco Historico of Marbella there is a distinct area of around 10 blocks full of amazing places to eat.
Comprising, perhaps, a dozen streets, this is a true nerve centre for gourmands, with a giant mix of different cuisines.
From the best Japanese in Andalucia to two Michelin-starred joints, it is a real dining Mecca for those-in-the-know.
This is where the local politicians and lawyers head for lunch, with its centre around Calle Notario Luis Oliver.
Two of the best are the Italian
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CHEERS TO CHOW!
WHEN the Metro group signed British chef Neil Witney to help curate the menu for their brand new pan-Asian restaurant CHOW, in Puerto Banus, they were aiming high. He had become something of a sushi master when he built up a cottage industry around the Home Counties of the UK, delivering fresh, homemade delicacies door to door.
Called Little Fish, it had launched in the COVID pandemic out of necessity, when his wife Justine had started to send out his lovely sushi creations on Ins tagram.
Using only the best fish they could find (the same suppliers coin cidentally of famous restaurants includ ing Nobu and El Celler de can Roca, in Catalunya) demand hit the roof.
By 2023 they had nearly a dozen vans and over 20 distribution points serving their delightful creations.
A Michelin-trained chef, with tentacles in Saudi Arabia, New York and Dubai, as coincidences would have it, he cooked for me a few times in West London, at the seminal E&O restaurant, a vanguard modern Asian joint that was THE buzzing place in the 1990s.
Meaning ‘Eastern & Oriental’, it led the fashion for pan-Asian food, epitomised by the likes of Nahm and Hakkasan, where Spain’s top chef Dabiz
Munoz, of Diverxo, trained in
“It’s the place that made me the chef I am today,” he told me the day after he won his third Michelin star a decade ago
But back to CHOW and things then bode well and there is nothing about this new place that doesn’t scream ‘luxu-
For starters the location couldn’t be better: frontline Banus looking at the mega-yachts that line up under the imposing circular control tower. Look left and you can drool over the latest range of menswear shoes from the Dior boutique, while on the paseo in front, the best place to people-watch in southern Spain, a cavalcade of the beautiful, bizarre and brazen.
Inside it’s shiny and seductive, with mottled mirror ceilings and interesting light box pillars!
And, almost as soon as you sit down, a big pile of crispy prawn crackers with sweet and sour sauce comes sliding in. Yum.
The menu is billed as a ‘vibrant mosaic’ of Thai, Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese food and includes ‘robata-grilled’ meats to ‘punchy street-style’ dishes.
A ‘small plates’ section has a great mix of Asian specialties, like dumplings, Vietnamese shrimp spring rolls and a ‘San Choi Bow’, which is chicken in lettuce cups with lime.
One of my favourites, prawn toast has lobster added in, making it one hell of a luxury starter, with its orange ponzu and coming out as a ball, raising eyeballs around the table.
Of course we go for a family size mixed sushi platter which is a beauty to behold - pure joy, in fact, for my daughter, who has become smitten with Asian food since falling in love with crispy duck pancakes while studying in Manchester. The slices of tuna and salmon are the best you’ll eat in Spain and the butterfish worked even better than the spicy tuna California roll, which was heaven.
The pork ribs, which are slow cooked for two hours, were absolutely amazing - so tender, they literally dropped off the bone as you picked them up.
As dusk moves into night there is a distinct change in atmosphere and the music becomes more upbeat, perfectly heralding the spicy Chicken karaage, with kimchi honey butter - basically sweet, breaded chicken ribs - but far from the norm. And for vegetarians (above), in fact anyone with good taste, you must try the corn spring rolls - with shiitake mushrooms and spinach. This is a signature dish for Neil and possibly my favourite of the night.
Truth be told, the best came last: The lamb ‘bosan’ (above left) is the leg cooked very slowly, some four to six hours - and it’s amazing how the waiter prepares it and how easily it drops off the bone.
“This is possibly the most amazing leg of lamb you’ll find in Spain,” explains executive chef for the group, Stan Rozbitsyy (whose surname would do very well in the UK).
Rozbitsyy, who is from Ukraine, but grew up in Lisbon, has been working closely alongside Neil to perfect the dishes on a day to day basis, given the star chef is often away attending other business.
Stan is the sort of chef I love, the type who has four to five hours sleep a night, is up at the markets at 6am and usually heads to bed well past midnight.
Then again, he has nearly 20 restaurants along the coast to look after as the Metro group continues to expand. Other restaurants in the stable include Max Beach, Mao, Nomad, Bono Beach and the exciting, recently-reopened Koi.
“I live and breathe restaurants and food, it’s my passion and I have to try all the new dishes and need to see what’s going out from all of them,” continues Stan. “I even insist the chefs send me photos of various plates each night.”
On this showing he can sleep that bit easier this summer.
AUTHENTIC: Luis and Marta at El Albero (left), while Chambao is the perfect place to dine with stunning views
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THE VERY BEST
Casa Tui, and its recently opened wine bar, as well as Sideria Paca, an Asturian joint, with the best quality ingredients imaginable. Boss Julio, from Gijon, has a long connec tion to the food industry, having bred and sold free range chickens to the best restaurants around Asturias, in particular Casa Marcial, where Nacho Manzano became a legend. But this place is a nice mix of dishes from around the country and even globally, with his chefs coming from various parts of South America.
I particularly loved his Paraguayan soup, while a super refreshing nem came out with oxtail, red onions and ci lantro on a bed of lettuce. It was as good as any I’ve tried since I first tasted the dish at Dabiz Munoz’ three star Diverxo a decade ago.
fish, while the fabada was, as you would expect awesome.
Nearby, is the highly rated Italian Casa Tua, which is a quiet, unshowy place with an evocative leafy garden near the boulevard.
Magical
I can also recommend the pastel Cabracho, an Asturian classic, made from local rock
at night, let friendly maitre D Koen guide you through the menu and specials, created by Italian chef Adriano, who heralds from near
I particularly loved the meatballs, while the buffalo mozzarella on a bed of cherry tomatoes was the sweetest starter imagin -
There are lots of excellent meaty mains and plenty of fish, but on a recent outing, my family all went for pasta dishes as mains, and, wow, nobody was disappointed. My Garganelli pasta with pork cheeks, from southern Italy, legendary.
Looking for the best wine, why not try Casa Tua’s new wine bar just up the road, where a simple sign outside, reads: ‘Bubbles & Beer’, but there is also a nice simple menu, including Italian classics like arancini, burrata’s and, a splendid looking cheese plate.
Wine wise you are in for a treat, with over a dozen by the glass, and plenty of classics, including
plenty of Barolos and Brunellos if you want to push the boat out.
Nearby you’ll also find a string of Michelin rated joints, including Nintai, Kava and Back, which won its first Michelin star two years ago, under the guidance of popular local chef David Olivas. He and Marcos Gran -
DELICIOUS: A small selection of the dishes available at Paca
da at Nintai and Skina have become the new godfathers of Marbella, now that the previous king of the kitchens Dani Garcia has gone into cyberspace, opening restaurants around the world and designing burgers for McDonalds. Olivas ran Garcia’s
famous three Michelin star Calima for years and was the rock behind the king who oversaw its meteoric rise.
Japanese? Ta-Kumi is consistently excellent and recently expanded to Madrid, with a minimalistic you’ll find co-owner Toshio Tsutsui, from Fukuoka, coming in daily to keep things in check. There are also a big string of great places further up the Golden Mile, Nueva Andalucia and
WINE, WINE, WINE: and great food too at quiet, unshowy Italian Casa Tua
CLASSY: The chefs at Ta-Kumi create dishes as classy as the decor
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GREEK DELIGHTS
San Pedro, while Elviria also has a decent pick too.
Most famous is the large range of top quality joints at the Puente Romano hotel, where you will find the famous brands, including Nobu, Cipriani and Coya.
They congregate close together around the Plaza area with a top pick being Thai Gallery, while Sea Grill on the beach is very reliable and the recent addition of Gaia, a Greek restaurant that first launched in Mayfair, an elegant spot. Here you might try the excellent starter of Melitzanosalata, a smoky aubergine number with yoghurt parsley served on toast. The beef Keftedakia (meatballs) with mint
and tomato sauce were also a great starter. On the Golden Mile you can also find the excellent Italian, Cibo, a stylish place that serves the best pizzas on the coast.
There are always a great number of specials by the day, but I’d recommend the langoustines cooked on the open grill as well as the Aracini, fried risotto balls with crab. A main course of spicy tuna belly spaghetti was very special. Almost next door, a new
Japanese, Koi, is really making waves, while another restaurant that is rapidly taking the coast by storm is Nomad, in
Launched by Alex Craciun of the UK’s leading Jason Atherton group, this is glamour personified, and with a menu to match.
For beach clubs Bono Beach is a surefire winner, in particular, for its amazing attention to detail and client care.
Another beach favourite, Macaao is always a reliable and popular place in San Pedro, while Chambao between Marbella and Puerto Banus comes highly rated.
In terms of good places to eat in Banus one might expect it to be rammed with great places to eat, but the truth is it can be very hit and miss. Stick with the classic
A RESORT WITH MORE
All along the watchtower
Declared of Cultural Interest in 1985, the 15-metre Torre Ladrones (Thieves Tower) is the highest watchtower on the Malaga coast. The defensive structure dates from the Muslim period but some speculate the Romans first built it. You can find it close by the Artola dunes nature reserve and Cabopino port.
Visigoth vestiges
The Basílica de Vega del Mar in San Pedro was excavated in the 20th century on a former Roman road running from Cadiz to Cartagena. It is one of the few remaining examples of north African Visigothic churches built in Andalucia during the sixth century although all that remains today are its awesome one-metre walls.
Arabian delights
The Alcazaba fortress is the most important vestige of Muslim civilisation in Marbella. The Castillo was built in the 10th century during the reign of Abd al-Rahman III, Caliph of Córdoba.
spots like Jacks, Leone and Mumtaz, probably the best Indian in Marbella, and you can’t go wrong.
And then there is CHOW, a pan-Asian joint, which just opened with the help of one of the world’s most highly-rated sushi chefs (see review).
Just outside the port, a five minute walk inland is La Sala, the most successful expat-run restaurant on the Costa del Sol.
cluding Wayne Rooney, Jamie Oliver, Harry Kane and Tyson Fury. About to reach its 15th anniversary, it employs around 150 staff and includes a football team of investors, who have just launched their new Clubhouse sports bar and restaurant below.
The food is excellent for its location, but
This is the place to do your star spotting and just about everyone who’s anyone has been to eat here, even inthe menu changes regularly and there will always be some entertainment. Finally, looking for a place to get a cocktail, either before or after dinner, look no further than Banus’ genuine secret spot, the Sky Lounge. Here you will perch above the marina with one of the best views on the coast.
The Olive Press picks out 6 reasons to love Marbella
A Renaissance square
The Plaza de los Naranjos lies at the heart of Marbella’s old town. Built after the Christian Reconquest, it is an outstanding example of Castilian Renaissance architecture. From one of the many sun-soaked terraces, you can admire the Renaissance-style town hall, the Mayor’s house combining elements of Gothic, Renaissance and Mude jar design and the Chapel of Santiago, the oldest religious building in the city.
A salty start
In Roman ti mes, the city was called Salduba (Salt City) after the lo cal fish sal ting indus try. The Arabs changed it to Marbil-la, the origin of its current name and it’s spoton. In Spanish, Marbe lla means ‘beautiful sea.’
Nueva Andalucia.
ELEGANT: Greek addition to the Puente Romano Gaia has the freshest fish (right)
POPULAR: Macaao Beach in San Pedro is always on song when it comes to food
The elephant sculptures that spray water from their trunks on many of Marbella’s best beaches are an Instagram favourite. Dunk by Dumbo
